The secret weapon in any skin-care regimen may come as a surprise: the right toner.
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30 Witch Hazel Beauty Benefits
CHAPTER 1 • BEAUTY ESSENTIALS FOR EVERYONE • PAGE 4
6 5 Tips to Feel Confident in Your Skin
Just as some culinary oils are more nourishing than others, the right body-care oils will do the most to keep your skin soft, elastic, and glowing.
32 Natural Deodorant Know-How
Find ways to refocus on what brings you peace and pleasure to feel more beautiful from the inside out.
Learn more about the dangers associated with conventional deodorants, and discover natural alternatives.
8 Gear Up for Do-It-Yourself Success
Learn basic tips and the tools to have on hand in order to whip up any DIY recipe.
55 Yoga Poses for a Clearer Complexion
Practice yoga poses that encourage a healthy and balanced body energy to bring radiance back to your skin.
CHAPTER 2 • NOURISHING NATURAL SKIN-CARE SOLUTIONS • PAGE 34
13 DIY Beauty Basics
58 Revitalize Your Complexion With Clay
36 Naturally Healthy Skin Starts in the Gut
Discover the best natural ingredients for maintaining the health and beauty of your skin.
Discover how playing in the dirt can lead you to a clean and nourished complexion.
Take steps to promote a properly functioning gut and, by extension, glowing skin.
20 Harmful Chemicals & Herbal Alternatives
CHAPTER 3 • BEAUTY BOOSTS FROM HEAD TO TOE • PAGE 62
40 Essential Nutrients for Exquisite Skin
Avoid volatile commercial chemicals by learning to make your own basic products for skin, hair, teeth, and more.
Choose the right mix of foods for a delicious daily dose of beauty-enhancing nutrients.
24 5 Beauty Ingredients to Avoid
64 A Guide to Naturally Healthy Hair
Discover a gentle botanical hair-care regimen to help any tresses shine.
42 Naturally Care for Every Skin Type
Discover the best natural solutions for your specific skin, whether normal, dry, or oily.
26 1-Ingredient Beauty Aids
44 Do-It-Yourself Skin Scrubs
Tackle dry skin, grimy fingernails, age spots, and more with these beauty fixes that require just one kitchen ingredient.
Get smooth, radiant skin with these naturally stimulating exfoliants.
46 Utilize All-Natural Luffa
28 Floral Extracts for Stress & Skin
Grow these sponges in your vegetable garden for endless access to the beauty benefits every part of the plant offers.
Let flower oils and floral aromatherapy heal your skin and ease your mind.
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67 Homemade Hair Rinse COVER: ADOBE STOCK/MARAMOROSZ
Protect yourself with our essential guide to the top ingredients to avoid in commercial products.
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50 Comparing Topical Body-Care Oils
Discover the myriad uses of witch hazel to take advantage of this botanical wonder.
Make an after-shampoo hair rinse tailored specifically to your needs.
68 Lather, Rinse, Do Not Repeat
Keep your hair happy and healthy with these natural alternatives to harmful shampoos.
70 Basic Herbs for Hair Care
Learn which common, nutrient-rich herbs can help the health of your hair and scalp.
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77 Natural Nail Care
Try these tricks to keep your hardworking hands healthy and strong.
CHAPTER 4 • PUT YOUR BEST FACE FORWARD • PAGE 80
82 A Flawless Facial at Home
Once a month, pamper your pores with a five-step facial to exfoliate, soften, and cleanse your skin.
88 Nourishing Homemade Face Masks
Enjoy a few moments of rest and relaxation with a reliable face mask tailor-made for your complexion.
92 Toners for All Skin Types
Change the self-care game by choosing the best toner to brighten your complexion.
95 Top Lip-Care Tips
Condition and brighten your lovely lips with a few simple tricks and even simpler recipes.
98 Cruelty-Free Nontoxic Cosmetics
Choose from a selection of ethical, eco-friendly cosmetics to avoid ingredients that can cause lasting harm to your health.
104 DIY Mineral Makeup
Basic mineral makeup is comparable in quality to commercial cosmetics, but customizable for your skin and far less expensive.
72 Tackle Dry Hair With Ayurveda
109 Homemade Shimmer Blush
74 Dental Herbalism: Smart, Natural Care for Your Mouth
110 DIY Eye Makeup
Bring bounce back to any lusterless locks by understanding the root of dry-hair difficulties.
Turn to these safe and effective ancient herbal remedies for natural modern-day dental care.
Use finely ground red beets to naturally rosy up your look. Create unique and all-natural eye makeup with activated charcoal.
Gear Up for Do-It-Yourself Success By Janice Cox
Throughout
history, great beauties have always made their own special treatments; we’ve all heard of Cleopatra’s legendary milk baths, or Puritan women and their homemade lipsticks. After all, not so long ago, homemade versions were all people had. Today, it’s the opposite. There are more bath and beauty products available on store shelves than anyone could possibly use. Cosmetic and body-care products featuring natural ingredients are some of the fastest growing areas of the health care industry, although when I began writing about home beauty, these naturally inspired products were somewhat hard to find. (I define “natural” as those products that don’t contain any man-made materials.) Today soaps, bath salts, and essential oils with labels touting natural ingredients are sold virtually everywhere, even at my local grocery store. Similarly, terms like “organic,” “aromatherapy,” “hydrotherapy,” and “meditation” are being embraced like never before. They’ve become a part of our everyday life. This is a good thing. It shows a growing consciousness and interest in wellness and taking better care of both ourselves and the world around us. Simplification has also become a lifestyle choice, and getting back to basics is a popular thing to do. I love that I’m finally “in style.” I’ve always enjoyed homemade items. I make many of my own beauty products because they’re safe, convenient, fun, and I save a lot of money. It’s also a rewarding and relaxing creative exercise. I think homemade body-care products are a wonderful addition to anyone’s lifestyle; they’re a unique blend of cooking, craft, gardening, and nature. Making them also includes a focus on looking and feeling your best and taking good care of yourself. This natural enhancement of ourselves is something we should all strive to include in our activities each day. 8
Beauty Essentials for Everyone
Many of my readers have expressed concerns about commercial product additives, asking, “Are they really necessary?” Yes. Commercial products are created in huge batches and must have long shelf lives and be able to withstand temperature changes during shipping and storage before being sold, ensuring their safety and freshness. Now, with home beauty, this is no longer the case. As the manufacturer of your own products, you can make a fresh product before each use, or simply throw it out and mix up a new batch if one goes bad. The former option is especially helpful for one-time treatments, such as facial masks, hair-conditioning packs, and special baths. Convenience is another added bonus to home beauty. If it’s late at night or early in the morning and you’re in need or in the mood for a treatment, you probably have the makings for several products right in your own home. There’s no need to go to the store or book an appointment at your local spa. Whip up a fresh facial mask or give yourself a total pedicure whenever you wish. I know this is especially helpful for new mothers. Natural, at-home beauty routines fit into a newborn’s schedule, a schedule that often makes it hard for mothers to leave the house. My recipes don’t contain any artificial colors or fragrances. Indeed, many can be made fragrance-free. You’ll see that in many recipes I suggest various scents, but these are always optional ingredients. The normal color and scent of my products is derived from their own natural ingredients. These look and smell wonderful on their own, as nature intended. You should know that you can be sensitive to natural beauty products just as you can to commercial products. If you have a known food allergy, such as to tomatoes, chances are you’ll also
be allergic to cosmetic products that contain tomatoes, even though you’re not ingesting them. The same goes for a vegan or gluten-free lifestyle. If you’re avoiding these ingredients in your diet, the same should go for your body-care products. Just to be safe, take special care when using a new product or treatment. Always spot-test it first; apply a small amount of the new product to the skin on the inside of your arm and wait 24 hours. If there’s no reaction, it’s probably safe to proceed with the treatment. If you have extremely sensitive skin or have a long list of allergies, it’s always best to consult a dermatologist or physician before using any new product or treatment. Remember, you’re the manufacturer of these cosmetic products, and quality control is therefore your responsibility. Always work with clean equipment and pure ingredients. If you’re purchasing fresh or dried ingredients, it’s important that Natural Beauty
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herbs in the formula. Be sure to write down each of the ingredients and the proportions so you can recreate the formula at another time. Don’t make the common mistake of thinking that you’ll remember. I still lament the many times I’ve made a perfect product and couldn’t recall the scents I’d added or the proportions of oil to water.
Natural Skin-Care Ingredients
Following is a list of some of the more popular cosmetic ingredients and what they’re used for. Not only is this practical knowledge, it gives you greater ability to formulate your own recipes. If you’re familiar with the result each ingredient produces in a formula, you’ll be able to substitute one item for another. This knowledge comes in handy if you run out of or don’t care for a particular ingredient.
Almond Oil Almond oil
What it is: Made from the kernels of almonds, this sweet oil is one of the most versatile oils for skin-care products.
What it does: A liquid oil, almond oil is light and works well
oils that’s excellent for skin-care products. It’s a light emollient and is suitable for most skin types.
Availability: You can find apricot kernel oil in natural food stores.
Castor Oil
What it is: Castor oil is the thick, viscous oil extracted from
the toxic beans of the castor plant. This oil isn’t used in cooking, but it does have a great reputation as a medicinal oil. It’s well known for its purging properties and its ability to dissolve cysts and tumors.
vera is used to treat and soothe burns, rough or irritated skin, and wounds. Aloe is a wonderful moisturizer that also firms and tones the skin. It’s a common ingredient in many natural cosmetic products.
Availability: Aloe gel and juice are readily available in natural food stores and some pharmacies. I keep aloe as a potted plant in my home; when I need fresh gel, it’s right there. Though fresh aloe gel is wonderful in body-care products that you’ll be using up within a few days, for products that need a longer shelf life, use aloe gel that has at least 1 percent citric acid added as a natural preservative.
CAUTION: Aloe vera gel should never be used on staph infections. It can lock in the infection and make it worse.
Castor oil
What it does: This oil can be used in cosmetic preparations
Availability: Castor oil is widely available in pharmacies and
What it does: The gel from the large, succulent leaves of aloe
Beauty Essentials for Everyone
What it does: This is one of those perfect, odorless liquid
Availability: You can find almond oil in natural food stores.
world, aloe vera is an excellent plant to keep around the house.
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kernel oil is a versatile moisturizer.
for deep emollient properties. Castor oil is perfect for dry and mature skin.
What it is: Native to Africa and common throughout the
Apricot kernel oil
What it is: Derived from the cold-pressed apricot pit, apricot
for most skin types. It smells delicious, too.
Aloe Vera
Aloe vera gel
Apricot Kernel Oil
grocery stores.
Clay
What it is: Clay is a wonderful substance mined from the
earth. It’s the essence of mountains ground down through the ages into a smooth powder, blessed by thousands of sunrises, sunsets, windstorms, and rainstorms. When we use clay in our cosmetics, we’re mixing this energy and using it as a beauty aid. Europeans have used clay for thousands of years both as a medicine and as a cosmetic. Clay baths, facials, and body-care products are popular throughout Europe and are only just catching on in America, where fancy spas now offer a variety of clay-based treatments.
What it does: There are many types of clay, each used for a
different purpose. The concentrations of minerals are what determine the color and effect of the clay. (Learn more about using cosmetic clays on Page 58.)
Availability: All the different kinds of clay can usually be found at natural food stores and spa shops. Look for the following popular varieties:
Clay
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Essential Nutrients for Exquisite Skin By Kim Wallace
While
there’s no simple formula guaranteed to deliver clear, frustration-free skin, powerhouse beauty nutrients found in our favorite whole foods can help reduce blemishes and keep skin looking youthful and radiant at any age. “It’s not about specific foods,” says Jolene Hart, a health coach certified by the Institute for Integrative Nutrition and the American Association of Drugless Practitioners, and author of Eat Pretty: Nutrition for Beauty, Inside and Out. “It’s more about the approach.” The approach, Hart says, is in choosing the best fresh foods that pamper our bodies while providing major skin benefits. This means targeting nutrient-dense foods known for their ability to build collagen and elastin (which keep skin firm and supple), reduce inflammation, and protect against skin-damaging free radicals caused by ultraviolet (UV) exposure, air pollution, and everyday toxin buildup. Thankfully, these beauty foods are likely already familiar—think nuts, leafy greens, and colorful fruits and vegetables. Hart suggests looking at the foods you already love and boosting their potential by incorporating more anti-inflammatory spices, such as cayenne, cinnamon, and turmeric; using powerful preparation techniques, such as fermenting and steaming; and taking a few high-quality supplements, such as probiotics and fish oils, to deliver deeper skin- and bodyhealing benefits. “Get in touch with how your body feels before and after eating,” Hart says. “Does this make me feel good? Is this meal pampering me?” If your answer is yes, those foods are likely nourishing you from the inside out, and your skin will be the ultimate sign of it. The result? Skin that’s soft, even-toned, and free of irritation—a clear reflection of whole foods feeding your whole body everything it needs to look and feel healthy.
6 Nourishing Nutrients Biotin: One of the most popular
supplements for healthy hair and nails, biotin is a B vitamin that’s easy to get via whole foods. Instead of taking several biotin pills daily, why not munch on almonds, or enjoy avocado toast topped with smoked wildcaught salmon?
Found in: almonds, avocados, chard, legumes, and wild salmon.
Probiotics: Scientists continue to
learn more about the brain-gut-skin connection, so make adding a daily dose of fermented foods to your meals a regular habit. Yogurt is a delicious breakfast food. Sauerkraut and kimchi are excellent added to salads or sandwiches. And miso makes a simple appetizer in the form of soup, or can be used to marinate fish. If you find it difficult to get in a serving of fermented foods every day, probiotics are one beauty nutrient Hart suggests we consider supplementing. American Health (www.americanhealthus.com) makes high-quality options.
Found in: kimchi, miso, sauerkraut, Caption here
and yogurt.
Zinc: Fussy, problematic skin can
benefit from a daily helping of zincrich foods, which are critical to the tissue healing process and encourage collagen formation. Zinc also helps calm redness and inflammation, and is especially effective at regulating oil production.
Found in: chickpeas, mushrooms, oysters, pecans, and quinoa. 40
Nourishing Natural Skin-Care Solutions
Omega Fatty Acids: The hype around
omega fatty acids is real, but the idea they only come from fish and supplements? Not so much. Get these anti-inflammatory, skin-strengthening nutrients from tasty seeds and nuts that can easily be blended into your morning smoothie or added to a daily salad.
Found in: chia seeds, ground flaxseeds, hemp seeds, trout, and walnuts.
Glutathione: A powerful antioxidant
that regenerates free-radical-fighting vitamins C and E, glutathione is one beauty nutrient Hart is most excited to see become part of our beauty lexicon. “It’s especially important for older people because it defends mitochondrial health and strengthens the immune system,” she says.
Found in: artichokes, beets, broccoli, grapefruit, and spinach.
Vitamins A, C, & E: Considered the
royal trio of vitamins for beautiful, healthy skin, vitamins A, C, and E are the most highly sought topical treatments to slow skin damage—and are some of the easiest beauty nutrients to enjoy eating every day. Colorful salads of red, green, and yellow almost always guarantee that you’re getting a shot of these vitamins essential to cell renewal and repair, production of collagen and elastin, and defense against free radical damage.
Found in: Vitamin A is found in
butternut squash, carrots, collard greens, kale, and pumpkin; vitamin C is found in bell peppers, kiwi, papaya, pineapple, and strawberries; and vitamin E is found in chard, olives, peaches, sunflower seeds, and tomatoes.
How Hydration Helps Can’t imagine how you’re going to eat all these beauty nutrients every day? You don’t have to! Drinking them offers just as many skin benefits. “A smoothie is a great way to get everything you need at once,” says Lina Hanson, founder of Lina Hanson Global Beauty and author of Eco-Beautiful: The Ultimate Guide to Natural Beauty and Wellness. She suggests starting with green smoothies, as they’re an efficient delivery system for loads of leafy greens. “Experiment with kale, arugula, and Swiss chard blended with avocado to get mega doses of vitamins C and E,” Hanson says. “These greatly boost skin vitality and reduce inflammation.” If you’re getting all the beauty foods you need, but aren’t staying well-hydrated, Hanson recommends drinking a cup of hot or lukewarm lemon water every morning. Follow with green tea for a major shot of antioxidants, and then experiment with other herbal teas to stay hydrated throughout the day. (Hanson loves holy basil tea, and Alvita Teas makes a high-quality, organic version.)
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The Basics of Blemishes Occasional breakouts happen to all of us. Everyone’s had the experience of waking up before a big meeting or special event to discover that their skin has erupted almost overnight.
½ cup rose water ½ teaspoon granulated sugar 2 tablespoons Kentucky bourbon 1 tablespoon dried mint leaves
Toners for All Skin Types
By Janice Cox
The
secret weapon in any skin-care regimen may come as a surprise to many: the right toner. Used after your face has been washed, and before you’ve applied moisturizer, toner not only helps remove dirt and impurities from your face, but also corrects the pH balance of your skin, cleans pores, clears away oils, and controls acne. Put your best face forward by choosing a toner to brighten your complexion.
Mint Julep Toner
The Kentucky Derby is the oldest continuously run horse race in the United States. It’s held each year on the first Saturday in May at Churchill Downs in Louisville, Kentucky. Millions worldwide watch the “run for the roses”—so-called because a blanket of roses is presented to the winning horse and jockey. Mint juleps are the beverage of choice at this exhilarating event. Try this recipe not just in May, but year-round, for a refreshing start to your day. Yield: 5 ounces.
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Put Your Best Face Forward
1. Mix together all the ingredients, cover, and let sit overnight. 2. Filter the liquid (I use a coffee filter fitted inside a kitchen funnel) into a clean container with a tight-fitting lid. 3. Apply to your skin using a clean cotton ball.
Carpe Diem Splash
Carpe diem is Latin for “Seize the day!” Use this spicy after-bath splash to make your mornings more invigorating. It’s mildly astringent and acidic, and will help restore your skin’s natural acid mantle. Make sure to moisturize well after using the splash, because it can be drying. Yield: 10 ounces. ½ cup rose water 1 cup white wine 2 bay leaves 6 clove buds 3 black peppercorns 1. Place all the ingredients in a small saucepan or microwave-safe container, and bring the mixture to a boil. Remove from heat and allow to cool. 2. Pour the mixture into a clean container, and let it sit for at least 2 weeks (the longer the better). Strain the bath splash, and rebottle it in a clean container with a tight-fitting lid. 3. Spray or splash on your body after bathing. Store in a cool, dark, dry place.
Excitement and stress are two emotions that can trigger your hormones to act up and cause these breakouts. When you’re under stress, your body secretes extra adrenal hormones, which promote the production of sebum—your skin’s own natural moisturizer. This extra oil can block your pores and lead to breakouts. Avoid these types of breakouts by relaxing (a clear head equals clear skin) and keeping your skin super clean. Blemishes fall into two categories: comedones and papules, or “blackheads” and “whiteheads.” These types of breakouts occur in your hair follicles as pores become clogged with sebum and other surface impurities, such as dead skin cells and bits of protein. Blackheads aren’t caused by dirt on the skin, but by excess oil. If this oil isn’t removed within eight hours, it hardens into a plug. When air hits the hardened oil, it oxidizes, leaving a black color. If bacteria comes into contact with a plugged pore, the result can be inflammation, also known as a whitehead, or classic pimple. Never squeeze a pimple; you can cause infection and damage your skin. Instead, soak a cotton ball in warm salt water and press it on the top of the blemish for three minutes to help dissolve the top. Then, dab a bit of honey on it and let it sit for another 10 to 15 minutes. Honey helps draw out impurities and has natural antibacterial properties. Rinse with warm water, and pat dry. Natural Beauty
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Color Blends for Beginners COURTNEY Fair with pink undertones. 1 teaspoon titanium dioxide 1 ⁄8 teaspoon yellow iron oxide 3 ⁄128 teaspoon red iron oxide MARIE Fair with neutral undertones. 1 teaspoon titanium dioxide 7 ⁄32 teaspoon yellow iron oxide 3 ⁄64 teaspoon red iron oxide 1 ⁄32 teaspoon dark-brown iron oxide JESS Medium with neutral undertones. 1 teaspoon titanium dioxide 7 ⁄16 teaspoon yellow iron oxide 1 ⁄64 teaspoon red iron oxide 7 ⁄64 teaspoon dark-brown iron oxide
Choose the Right Equipment
DIY Mineral Makeup
By Marie Rayma
I
grew up in a family of makers. My mother made costumes and curtains, cookies and casseroles. My father made cabinets, staircases, and an amazing treehouse for our imaginative childhood games. I grew up knowing that although clothes, food, and furniture could come from stores, they could also be created at home. But makeup? Makeup was a substance in and of itself, a mysterious subclass of colorful creams and powders that could transform different bits of my face into something new. Eventually, I started to create my own skin-care products—lip balm led to body butter and then to lotion—and at some point, the idea of homemade makeup came onto my radar. I wasn’t a devoted cosmetics user, but once I began to learn what makeup was made of and how those ingredients worked together, I started mixing powders and butters into my own colorful concoctions. I could make lip balm, and I had some pigments—and isn’t that basically lipstick? The power to create and customize was mine in a whole new way! 104
Put Your Best Face Forward
Thanks to the web, making your own cosmetics is more accessible than ever. In the United States, TKB Trading (www.tkbtrading.com) is an excellent source for makeup ingredients and packaging; in Canada, try Windy Point Soap Making Supplies (www.windypointsoap.com). Makeup ingredients are inexpensive and have long shelf lives; you can purchase the supplies for what might be a lifetime’s worth of mineral makeup for less than $40! For equipment, you’ll need a standard blade coffee grinder (reserved only for your DIY projects), a dust mask, standard measuring spoons, and a set of small “dash” measuring teaspoons in 1/8, 1/16, 1⁄32, and 1/64 sizes. You’ll also need a few disposable pipettes for measuring drops of the oils you’ll use; keep the pipettes in service as long as possible by storing them on the side of the oil bottle with a rubber band.
Gather Your Ingredients
In general, we want our cosmetics to have a variety of different characteristics: slip (ability to spread well, with a nice feel against the skin), adhesion (ability to stay on), pigmentation (strong colors), and opacity (coverage). Of course, we also want our cosmetics to be nonirritating, to feel nice on the skin, and to be safe. For mineral makeup, we’re looking for moderate to high coverage, strong and accurate pigmentation, great slip, and at least 8 to 12 hours of comfortable wear time. Different ingredients bring different characteristics to our cosmetics, so we blend them to create a perfect final product. A little coverage from this, some adhesion and slip from that, and so on—it’s a lot like cooking in this regard. Many makeup recipes online will tell you that high-quality cosmetics can be made using only common kitchen ingredients, such as cocoa powder and turmeric, but that’s just not true (I’ve tried). We’ll be using pure mineral ingredients to create makeup that’s comparable to the high-quality, store-bought options.
AVNEET Cool medium. 1 teaspoon titanium dioxide 7 ⁄16 teaspoon yellow iron oxide 1 ⁄64 teaspoon red iron oxide 3 ⁄8 teaspoon dark-brown iron oxide MONDAY Dark with yellow undertones. 11⁄4 teaspoons yellow iron oxide 3 ⁄32 teaspoon red iron oxide 5 ⁄16 teaspoon dark-brown iron oxide 1 ⁄8 teaspoon magnesium stearate 5 drops jojoba oil SIMONE Dark with red undertones. 11 ⁄16 teaspoon yellow iron oxide 11 ⁄32 teaspoon red iron oxide 5 ⁄8 teaspoon dark-brown iron oxide 1 ⁄8 teaspoon magnesium stearate 5 drops jojoba oil ADORA Dark with cool undertones. 1 teaspoon yellow iron oxide 3 ⁄32 teaspoon red iron oxide 9 ⁄16 teaspoon dark-brown iron oxide 1 ⁄64 teaspoon blue ultramarine 1 ⁄8 teaspoon magnesium stearate 5 drops jojoba oil Natural Beauty
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