PLUS: • Bake Delectable and Simple Sourdough • Learn About Grain Mills and Making Flour • Transform Stale Bread into Delicious Meals • Decorate Your Bread With Beautiful Designs • Discover Sweet and Savory Gluten-Free Treats 75+ KEYS TO GREAT HOMEMADE BREADS inside! Homemade Bagel Recipes pg. 92 COUNTRY SKILLS SERIES GUIDE TO HOME BAKING Vol. 11 Issue No. 3 Vol. 6Vol. 5 • No. 3 Winter 2016 Vol. 13 No. 4 • $6.99 Display Until February 10, 2020
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8 You Too Can Bake Bread
Five bloggers share their favorite bread recipes, tips, and time savers.
14 Easy, No-Knead Bread
Methods guaranteed to make everyone a baker!
20 Baking Bread in Five Minutes a Day
How one wife, mother, farmer, and writer puts fresh homemade bread on the dinner table daily.
26 Guide to Whole Grain Baking
Use these 10 whole-grain baking techniques without fear of ruining your favorite recipes.
30 To Bake the Best Bread, Grind Your Own Grain
Healthy reasons you should consider grinding your own grain at home.
34 Milling About
Take your baking a step further with a home grain mill that produces delicious flour.
38 Sprouted Grains for Baking
Add sprouted grains to baked goods for extra protein, vitamins, and minerals without excess calories.
42 Beautiful Breads
Sourdough seems to get all the love—give yeasted bread a turn in the limelight with these stenciled designs.
48 Daily Breads: Potato, Oatmeal, White, and Rye With a Starter
Make flavorful sandwich bread out of quality ingredients to save money and warm a gathering or just your kitchen for the day.
54
Sourdough Simplified
Make delicious homemade bread whenever you please with these easy-to-follow instructions.
14 30 42 54 www.Grit.com 1
60 Cast Iron for the Country Kitchen
Make your kitchen cookware count with the most useful pieces of cast iron.
64 Cook It in Cast Iron
Create mouthwatering meals using your cast-iron cookware.
66 Reasons Why Your Bread Dough Doesn’t Rise
An experienced baker provides insight on the frustrating obstacle to baking great bread.
68 Good to the Last Slice
Make the most of your daily bread with these hearty, homey recipes that transform leftover to luscious.
72 Any Way You Slice It
Homemade pies are the ultimate dessert.
75 Gluten-Free Goodies
Going gluten-free is easier than you think.
78 Something Sweet
A touch of sugar adds a touch of home to delicious breads.
82 Bake up Herbal Breads for the Smell of Home
Of course, man cannot live by bread alone. Add some herbs!
88 Flatbread Fiesta
Call it tortilla, naan, matzo, or crackers, there’s a version in every culture.
92 Begging for Bagels
Sweet or savory, these versatile recipes can fill the hole in any of your meals.
95 Recipe Index
A list of all the recipes that appear in this year’s baking guide.
96 Recommended Resources
Everything you need to start baking the best bread in your own kitchen.
92 72 60 82 Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 2
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Send Us Your Photos
Do you enjoy baking biscuits, baguettes, and other homemade breads? Have some great shots of loaves fresh out of the oven? Send us your photos and a few details about your fresh-baked creations. Send them to ksmith@ ogdenpubs.com, and a photo may be featured on our social media platforms or in a future issue of the magazine.
78% of G RIT readers say they bake bread out of enjoyment
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36% of G RIT readers use a bread machine to bake bread
It’s a fair question since we could use our time to do other productive tasks. And no one wants to waste money. As a person who’s very conscious of how I use my time and spend my money, I decided to look deep into the cost of baking bread. It’s a joy to report that homemade bread baking can save money at the same time that it boosts our nutritional intake.
—Loretta Sorensen in “The Economy of Homeade Bread”
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GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 4
Join the Conversation
GRIT reader, Carrie Miller, shares her most challenging experience baking homemade bread yet...
“November 23rd, 2017, began like many other Thanksgiving Eves with the preparation of a feast for our ever-growing family. However, this year was different, we had also invited all my husband’s extended family to join us for the holiday. Our home was to be lled with relatives we had not seen in more than fteen years; the pressure was on. As my homemade honey rolls were rising upon the electric stove the pies were well on their way to becoming gorgeous desserts below in the oven. Then it happened, the icker of lights, the sound of clocks resetting, and then the power went completely out. Oh gosh, please not now! With little heat in the home, the rising of the rolls was not going well to say the least. As minutes turned into hours my husband hooked up the generator giving us some power, but sadly, no oven. My clothes dryer runs off propane, therefore, I had the grand idea to install my shoe drying rack into the dryer and use it to place my rolls on. I turned the dryer on low and the rolls began to rise. Wahoo! A few hours later our power was back on and the rolls were able to be nished. We fought power outages off and on the next morning, but I was able to nish Thanksgiving dinner with only a few, tiny issues. The festivities went off without a hitch and everyone seemed to enjoy themselves. A dryer of all things saved the dinner rolls. Can you honestly have a great dinner without delicious homemade rolls? My answer, no, especially when the extended family is made up of Mennonite family members it is a must. I felt as though dinner needed to be perfect to impress this family.”
—Carrie Miller, Kinsman, Ohio
Reader Blogs
GRIT is proud to offer blogs written by our readers from across North America. If you would like to become a GRIT blogger, email aevans@grit.com for more details.
Streamline Your Bread Baking
By Loretta Sorensen
“One of the easiest ways to cut down the time spent baking bread in a bread machine (a good 10 to 15 minutes) is to prepare ingredients and tools ahead of time. Steps to accomplish that:
1. Mix all the dry ingredients (except the yeast) and store either at room temperature (if it will be used within a day or two) or in the freezer/refrigerator until you’re ready to bake. You can measure and store one or multiple mixes this way. If they’ll be stored a while, it’s a good idea to label and date the storage bag/container.
2. Measure yeast and sweetener and store in separate containers.
3. Assemble all the bread baking equipment the night, morning, or a few hours before you’re ready to bake.”—from Dakota Notebook blog
Braided Whole Grain Bread
By Valerie Boese
“Braided Whole Grain Bread is so easy and delicious to make. Everyone who tries this beautiful whole grain bread can’t believe how great it tastes. It is such an attractive loaf, it will have your guests thinking you went to a lot of work for them. In fact, the actual hands-on free time needed to prepare this bread is less than 30 minutes. Are you wondering how this tasty bread can be made with such little effort? The secret is, use a bread machine. Using a bread machine cuts down the preparation time signi cantly. Once you try this recipe, you will want to make it often. You won’t be waiting for a special occasion.”—from Gardens Bliss
Readers Who Make Homemade Bread
55% bake bread for its high nutrition value
only 5% use dutch ovens to bake bread
69% say organic our is important for their baking and nutrition needs
21% try out a new bread recipe every 12 bakes
78% bake cornbread; 64% bake rolls or biscuits only 17% bake using an outdoor oven
52% bake their own sandwich buns and rolls
60% use dry yeast; only 4% use fresh yeast
36% use a starter to bake their own bread
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Buttermilk Drop Biscuits
Buttermilk biscuits are an easy homemade type-of-bread that can be served with any dish. This homemade staple is not only delicious, but requires just ve ingredients to make. With lots of our, buttermilk, baking soda, and little bit of heat, you’ll be sinking your teeth into a warm, soft biscuit in no time. www.grit.com/buttermilkbiscuits, you’ll be so glad you did!
Cheesy Garlic Rolls Recipe
Nothing says home for the holidays like the delicious aroma of warm, cheesy garlic rolls. These buttery rolls will make the perfect side dish at any family dinner this season. Visit www.grit.com/cheesygarlicrolls, to help walk you through the process!
Bacon Apple Pie Rolls Ups
Bacon? And apple llings? For dessert? Believe it or not, these two sweet and savory ingredients pair well together in this holiday treat. This simple recipe is perfect for a fast turn around meal, or a late night holiday snack. Check out the video at www.grit.com/baconapplepie.
How to Churn Butter
Churning butter is a simple past-time that can go a long ways in the kitchen. Buttermilk adds a rich tang and soft texture to baked favorites like pancakes and biscuits. MOTHER EARTH NEWS Editor Kellsey Trimble walks you through the process step by step to get that desired taste you’re looking for in your recipes. Go to www.grit.com/ churnbutter.
Chocolate-Covered Peanut Butter Bacon Balls Recipe
Whip up a scrumptious treat for the holiday season this year using all-natural peanut butter and bacon in this simple recipe. These balls of sweetness can be made quickly and are for perfect accomodating last minute house guests. Visit www. grit.com/peanutbaconballs for the recipe.
GUIDE TO HOME BAKING • Winter 2019 PREMIUM CONTENT TEAM
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GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 6
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Y TOO
Can Bake Bread
Five bloggers share their favorite bread recipes, tips, and time savers.
Compiled by GRIT Staff
Asyou prepare to begin your exciting, bread-making adventure, four Grit bloggers offer advice and outstanding variations on traditional bread recipes. These bread makers and lovers will guide you through making deliciously, flavorful Stromboli, stove-top English muffins, health-conscious zucchini bread, and yummy whole-grain artisan bread.
12 Steps for Troubleshooting Bread Dough
By Loretta Sorensen
If you’re just beginning your bread baking adventures, you may benefit from understanding a few basic facts about what contributes to producing a satisfactory loaf.
These basic principles are true of nearly all types of yeast breads.
. You must use fresh ingredients to achieve optimum results. This is true of nearly any type of recipe, but don’t sabotage your baking efforts by using flour or yeast that is more than one year old. If either of these ingredients hasn’t been stored correctly, it will have an undesirable taste and will likely not rise or bake as fresher ingredients will.
2. Yeast thrives in a temperature range between 105 and 110degrees Fahrenheit. It will function down to a temperature of 90 degrees. However, its activity will be much slower, and it’s
not nearly as likely to reach its potential for boosting your final bread rise. Use a digital thermometer (or any household thermometer) to warm your recipe liquid to this range.
3. Temperatures over 115 degrees Fahrenheit will kill the yeast. This is desirable during baking, but not as the dough rises.
4. When salt comes in direct contact with yeast, the yeast dies. Your bread requires salt as part of the rising process. So blend the salt with the flour to avoid direct contact with the yeast.
5. Gluten in your flour is involved in your bread’s rise and the final texture of your loaf. It needs to be activated by the action of kneading. You can use a bread machine, mixer, or knead by hand.
6. The advantages of a bread machine include the fact that you can prepare and add all your ingredients and allow the machine to do the work. A machine can knead far more thoroughly than either a mixer or a person. The bread machine also helps maintain the warmth of your dough throughout the knead/rest/knead cycle.
7. Regardless of your kneading preference, you should knead your dough no less than 10 minutes for each kneading cycle. Don’t knead it more than 18 minutes, as over-kneading will negatively affect gluten action and your final rise.
8. If you bake your dough in the oven, you must coat the pan with a non-stick
product such as butter, oil, aerosol spray, etc. Keep in mind that a baked loaf will readily stick to a glass pan and slip out of a metal pan more easily.
9. The size of your bread pan will affect the rise of your loaf. A pan that is larger than 9-by-5 will produce a flatter loaf. An ideal bread pan size for a twopound loaf is 8½-by-4½.
10. During the final rise, give yeast every opportunity to reach its greatest height by keeping it in an environment (your oven is ideal) at a temperature of at least 80 degrees and not more than 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t keep your oven on during the rise. Just warm it prior to setting the dough inside.
11. Cool your bread on a cooling rack. If necessary, use a makeshift rack by suspending the bread over a pan or between a couple packages of food, etc. Otherwise, the bottom of your loaf will be soggy.
12. Consider using a bread keeper stored in your refrigerator because bags in the refrigerator can gather moisture.
Make English Muffins on the Griddle
By Wendy Akin
When it’s too hot here in Texas to use the oven for very long, I turn to baking some breads on a griddle. An electric fry pan or griddle that allows you to set the temperature works best for these yummy muffins.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 8
We can griddle-bake English muffins superior in quality and flavor to storebought and save quite a bit of money with little work. I figure these homemade English muffins cost about 10 cents each, using the best-quality flour. Making up your own breakfast sandwiches will be an even greater saving.
Toast English muffins for breakfast with your homemade jam and use them to make breakfast, lunch, or even supper sandwiches with bacon, ham or sausage, egg, and cheese. Use muffins under creamed chicken à la king. When English muffins are this quick and inexpensive to make, you’ll come up with more ideas.
You can make English muffins without any special equipment, freeform in a stovetop skillet, but an electric fry pan or griddle and muffin rings will give you a traditional finished look. I have just four rings and that’s fine—they bake so quickly it’s all done in less than a half hour. You can order rings from King Arthur or Amazon, or even make your own, cutting 1 inch slices from a can of the appropriate size, about 3½ inches in diameter. Be careful of sharp edges.
I use my stand mixer with the dough hook. Even though the dough is wet, it still needs a lot of mixing. I mix up the starter, pull a plastic bag over the bowl, then continue on in the morning. Less work, less fuss, less cleanup.
Homemade English Muffins
Yields 8 to 10 muffins
STARTER:
6 ounces (¾ cup) all-purpose flour
Pinch of instant yeast
6 ounces (¾ cup) water
1 Stir starter ingredients together to make a smooth batter.
2 Cover bowl and set it on the counter to develop for at least 4 hours, better if overnight.
DOUGH:
7½ ounces all purpose flour (not quite 1 cup) Use part white or traditional whole wheat if you like.
1 teaspoon instant yeast
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons non-diastatic malt powder (or cane sugar)
2 teaspoons baking powder
6 ounces (¾ cup) warm whole milk (baby bottle warm)
A little soft butter
Optional: a little cornmeal if your griddle is not non-stick
3 In mixer bowl, add all dry ingredients to the starter and give a quick stir. Add warm milk, turn mixer to “stir” until dough comes together, then continue on #4 setting for another 5 minutes. Scrape beater, cover bowl, and set aside on counter for at least 1 hour, until doubled in volume and quite puffy.
4 Set up griddle and heat to 350 F. With pastry brush and a bit of soft butter, lightly grease muffin rings. Set rings on griddle and, if griddle is not nonstick, put a pinch of cornmeal in each.
5 Fill muffin rings about ⅔ full. Use an ice cream scoop or just a big spoon. Keep a small bowl of water next to the scoop or spoon, dip scoop in water before dropping batter into ring. Wet the scoop each time so the batter doesn’t stick to it.
6 Bake muffins for about 10 minutes until they begin to look dry on top.
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Peek to see if it’s browned. Flip muffins over, then ease off ring with small tongs or edge of turner. Now refill ring and continue baking.
7 As second side of muffin browns nicely, press lightly with a finger; if it pops right back, muffin is done. Remove muffins to a wire rack and cool completely. The muffins are better on the second day, so let them rest in a plastic bag to “mature.”
8 The next day, use a fork to split muffins. If you won’t use all the muffins right away, freeze them in a zipper bag.
Whole-Grain Artisan Bread for a Dutch Oven
By Wendy Akin
A friend brought me a loaf of her sourdough multigrain bread baked in a Dutch oven and offered a starter of her sourdough. Somehow, I have a black thumb with sourdough, so I set out to develop a recipe with well-developed flavor, skipping the care and feeding of a long-term starter.
Two well developed starters and a three-day process worked really well. With that done, other grains and flavors came along naturally. You’ll spend just a few minutes the first two days, but plan ahead so you have fresh delicious bread the day you want it.
Some methods for Dutch oven baking say to rise the dough in a bowl or whatever, heat the Dutch oven, and then slide the risen dough into a 450-degree cast-iron pot. The danger of burns and deflated dough helped me decide to go with the cold Dutch oven. Cold works perfectly, I promise.
If the weather forecast is for several cold days in a row, I don’t clean the bowls. When you pour the Starter #1 into Starter #2, mix up another batch. When you mix the final dough and turn it onto the board to stretch and fold, mix up another Starter #2. It’s great to have really good bread stashed in the freezer when the weather turns too hot to turn on the big oven.
My Dutch oven is 6 quarts so this is a huge loaf. I usually cut it in half and freeze half for later. If you have a 4-quart, reduce the recipe to ⅔. Divide by 3, then multiply by 2 for the
quantities for a 4-quart Dutch oven. Conversely, if you find another recipe for a 4-quart and have a 6-quart Dutch oven, divide by 2 and multiply by 3 to increase the recipe.
STARTER #1 ON DAY 1 (a poolish type)
• 8 ounces (1 cup) water
• 4½ ounces (1 cup) all purpose flour
• ½ teaspoon instant yeast
STARTER #2 ON DAY 2 (a biga type)
• 5½ ounces (1¼ cup) 10-Grain Flour
• 9¾ ounces (1¾ cup) whole wheat flour
• 2 teaspons sea salt
• 2 teaspoons instant yeast
• 16 ounces (2 cups) water
• all of starter #1
DOUGH ON DAY 3
• All of the starter #2
• 9 ounces (2 cups) bread flour
• 2 tablespoons non-gmo oil
• optional: seeds for the top—poppy, flax, sunflower, etc.
DAY 1: STARTER # 1
1 This is easy to stir with just a spoon or whisk. In a 4-cup bowl, stir the yeast into the flour. Add the water and stir into a smooth batter. Cover the bowl and leave it on the counter overnight, at least 12 hours. It will bubble up and have a slightly tangy smell when you’re ready to proceed.
DAY 2: STARTER #2
2 Mix all the flours and other dry ingredients in the mixer bowl or other large bowl. Add the water and starter #1. Mix well with the dough hook and continue on machine speed #4 for about 5 minutes. Cover the bowl and refrigerate overnight.
DAY 3: FINAL
DOUGH DAY
3 Add the bread flour, mix well. Machine knead for 5 minutes, turn off the mixer and let the dough rest for 10 minutes. It won’t rise yet, because it’s cold. Turn the mixer back on and machine knead on speed #4 for another 5 minutes. As the dough clears the side of the bowl, pour the oil down the inside of the bowl so the dough gathers on the hook. Turn the dough out onto
an oiled board and do a stretch and fold to help develop the dough. Stretch and fold, turn the dough and repeat, then turn the dough over and let it rest up to 20 minutes. Repeat a double stretch and fold.
4 Prepare your Dutch oven. Trace the bottom of your oven on parchment paper and cut the circle to fit. If your oven isn’t seasoned, spray with oil first then put the parchment in and spray that, too. Don’t forget to spray the lid as well.
5 Rise and bake. Form the dough into a smooth ball, pulling the sides to the bottom. Place the dough into the Dutch oven, cover, and allow to rise until almost doubled. If the house is cool, this may take 2 hours. When the dough is nearly risen, preheat the oven to 450 F. Wait 15 minutes or so to let the oven completely heat. Slash the top of the loaf in a cross or cross hatch as you prefer.
6 Put the covered Dutch oven into the center of the oven and set the timer for 30 minutes. At the end of the 30 minutes, take the lid off the Dutch oven; the loaf will have risen nicely but won’t be very brown. Close the oven and turn down the temperature to 350 F. Set the timer again for another 30 minutes. Now the bread has a beautiful deep brown, crisp, and crackly crust. Check the internal temperature of the bread—it should be close to 200 F. If it’s not there yet, bake another few minutes then remove to a wire rack.
7 Cool. Leave the bread in the Dutch oven for a few minutes to completely bake the interior then turn out onto a rack. Then, let the bread cool completely (about an hour or more before cutting). Please be patient—if you cut your beautiful loaf too soon it will be gummy inside.
Sourdough Vegetable Stromboli
By Renee Pottle
Stromboli, like its cousin the calzone, is a flexible way to combine favorite toppings and bread. I’ve been making a ham/cheese/pickle Stromboli for decades now. It has become a holiday favorite for my family. Even when the children are spending Christmas with the in-laws they request a loaf of ham
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 10
Stromboli. But as a vegetarian, I am always experimenting with meatless Stromboli versions too.
This particular version combines favorite Italian vegetables like tomatoes, artichokes, and peppers with lots of cheese. All are stuffed into a sourdough pizza dough.
When making Stromboli, use your favorite pizza toppings like thinly sliced pepperoni or spinach leaves, but go easy on the sauce.
Sometimes I add a little tomato sauce to the filling, but often I just serve sauce on the side. Too much sauce or wet vegetables will leave your dough sticky, especially if you use a sourdough base. Sourdough adds flavor to Stromboli and helps it stay fresh longer, but you can make Stromboli using any pizza dough recipe.
INGREDIENTS
• 2 cups sourdough starter
• 1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 1½ cups semolina flour
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon pizza seasoning (optional)
• ¾ to 1 cup water
• 2½ cups chopped, lightly steamedvegetables (I tend to use a combination of zucchini, black olives, artichoke hearts, sun-dried tomatoes, and roasted red peppers.)
• fresh spinach or arugula leaves
• approximately 8 ounces shredded cheese (I use a combination of smoked mozzarella and gouda.)
DIRECTIONS
1 In a large bowl or stand mixer, combine the starter, flours, olive oil, salt, pizza seasoning, and water. Knead until the dough is smooth and shiny.
2 Let dough rise in a greased, covered bowl 2 to 3 hours. Divide dough in half. Reserve ½ dough for another Stromboli or keep for later use.
3 Preheat oven to 400 F.
4 On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 10-by-17-inch rectangle. Spread with the vegetable mixture. Cover with spinach leaves. Sprinkle with shredded cheese.
5 Tightly roll up from one of the long ends. Lightly wet seam to keep the roll together. Move to a parchment lined baking sheet.
6 Bake for 35 to 45 minutes or until lightly browned. Let rest for at least 15 minutes before slicing.
Healthier Zucchini Bread
By Carrie Williams Howe
Zucchini bread is an all-time classic that I have been enjoying since my mother (who is also a pro at banana bread) made it when I was a kid. I always used to fool myself by thinking that zucchini bread was somehow good for me because of its vegetable contents.
Alas, like many quick breads, zucchini bread recipes often include a healthy dose of oil and sugar on top of mounds of white flour—making the bread more like cake than a healthy grain.
Like many traditional recipes, there are great ways to adjust the traditional approach to zucchini bread to create a healthier version that is still as much of a pleasure to eat. Here are the four changes I made to create a healthier version of the classic recipe:
Whole Wheat Flour. I have been obsessed with whole-grain baking for a few years, and I am continually impressed by how delicious baked goods with whole grains can be. I figured there had to be a good zucchini bread alternative. I went to my go-to whole-grainbaking book (King Arthur Flour’s Whole Grain Baking ) and found what I was looking for.
This recipe uses 2 cups of whole wheat flour (preferably white whole wheat) and 1 cup of unbleached bread flour. I tried the recipe and found it very satisfying, but I still wanted to try going all the way with whole wheat flour, so my recipe uses 100-percent white whole wheat flour.
Along with this change, I also added a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to the recipe; according to the test kitchen at King Arthur Flour, the vinegar reacts with the baking powder and adds a bit more leavening power while also cutting some of the whole wheat flavor. Because whole wheat recipes often benefit from some time to rest and let the whole wheat absorb the moisture of the other ingredients, I allowed the batter to rest a bit before baking.
Ground Flax. Flax seeds are high in Omega-3s, antioxidants, and fiber. They can also can add a bit more nutritional value to any baked good or bread recipe. Adding ground flax adds just a touch of nutty flavor and a darker color. I replaced about ¼ cup of the flour in my own recipe with ground flax in order to reap these benefits without impacting the flavor or texture of the bread too much.
Applesauce. I have long appreciated the ability to substitute applesauce for oil in many baked goods. Seeing as the recipe I started with only contained ⅓
ADOBE STOCK/EZUME IMAGES www.Grit.com 11
cup of oil, this substitution was actually a no-brainer! An added bonus is that we have our own apple trees and do a big applesauce-making project each fall, so we are usually well-stocked with our source of applesauce.
Honey. I am very big into cutting down sugar wherever and whenever we can. That being said, I do realize that there is an ongoing debate over whether or not honey is actually healthier than white sugar (because it causes the same
type of blood sugar rise that any other type of sugar would).
In our case, we are using raw honey produced on our own land. As such, more of the trace vitamins and minerals are retained in our honey than in many store-bought brands. In addition, because honey is even more sweet than sugar, you can consider using less of it in your own recipe.
Some might argue that the different makeup of the sugar molecules in honey are slower to digest and, therefore, also
better for your body. In my case, substituting honey for white sugar is much more about using a locally produced, less processed, more natural ingredient and less about the slight variations in nutritional value. But, since honey is also a lot more expensive than sugar, I didn’t substitute 100-percent. Instead of ¾ cup sugar, I used ¼ cup each of sugar and honey. Less sugar overall, and half sourced closer to home.
Yields one 9-by-5 inch loaf.
INGREDIENTS :
• 1½ cups shredded zucchini
• 2¾ cups white whole wheat flour
• ¼ cup ground flax seed
• ¼ cup sugar
• 1 tablespoon baking powder
• 1 teaspoon salt
• ¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg or ½ teaspoon cinnamon (or a combination!)
• 2 large eggs
• ¾ cup milk
• ¼ cup applesauce
• ¼ cup honey
• 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
• ½ cup raisins or walnuts (optional)
• 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
DIRECTIONS:
1 Preheat the oven to 350 F. Lightly grease a 9-by-5-inch bread pan.
2 Shred the zucchini and set aside.
3 Whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, and spices in a large bowl.
4 Whisk the wet ingredients separately (eggs, milk, applesauce, honey). Then, stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients.
5 Stir in the grated, drained zucchini, raisins, or walnuts if you are using them, and lemon zest.
6 Pour the batter into the bread pan, then let it rest for about 10 minutes or so before baking.
7 Bake for 1 hour. Then, check for doneness and the level of browning. If the bread is still loose or even wet, cover with tin foil and bake for about 10-15 minutes more.
8 Cool for 15 minutes then remove from pan to cool completely. After this, your yummy zucchini bread is ready for you and friends to enjoy!
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Easy, No-Knead Artisan Bread
Methods guaranteed to make everyone a baker!
Article and photographs
by Karen K. Will
I used to be intimidated by bread baking. I thought it was a monumental task that only homemakers invested in ... mixing, kneading, waiting for rises, expensive stand mixers with dough hooks, etc. I hate to admit it, but I went to the grocery store and bought the mini loaves of “artisan” bread trucked in from California.
My excuse for not baking bread from scratch was that I didn’t have the time, nor the fancy equipment. Enter noknead bread—a magical mixture of flour, salt, yeast, water, and time. The world of homemade, thick, crusted, moistcrumbed, real artisan bread opened up to me, and it will for you, too.
After seeing a blurb about Jim Lahey’s book My Bread (W.W. Norton & Co. Inc., 2009) in a magazine, I was intrigued, and rushed out to get it. According to Lahey, anyone could easily make noknead, artisan-style bread in their home kitchen with a minimal amount of time, equipment and effort. Really? It all
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 14
sounded too good to be true … but as it turned out, it wasn’t.
The following method of bread making takes a bit of forethought, some mixing, and a lot of time in between. It’s a “slow rise” method in which the flavor is a result of slow fermentation, and the texture is the result of baking in a castiron pot. The yeast is eased to life over 12 to 18 hours, rather than shocked to life with warm water and sugar (this type of bread doesn’t require any added sugar at all). The ingredients are pure and simple. The white loaf calls for flour, salt, yeast, water—and most are probably already in your pantry.
Basic White Bread
3 cups bread our
11 4 teaspoons salt
1⁄4 teaspoon active dry yeast
11 2 to 13 4 cups cool water, divided Coarse cornmeal for dusting
BREAD BAKING METHOD 1:
1 Whisk our, salt, and yeast in large mixing bowl.
Due to the nature of slow fermentation, you’ll need to start your bread the day before you want to consume it. This may be hard to get your mind around, but the effort is well worth it. There isn’t space in this article to go over the culinary science and reasons behind this method—from fermentation to singing (the wonderful crackling sound the loaf makes as it’s removed from the oven that signals the beginning of the important cooling process)—so for that, please get a copy of Lahey’s book and commit it to memory.
My method deviates slightly from Lahey’s. After baking several hundred loaves at the time of this writing, I found a few things
that worked better for me in my home kitchen, resulting in less cleanup and better results. I’ve detailed two methods here for baking. The first is the most commonly used; the second is for use with recipes calling for buttermilk—dairy products burn more easily at higher temperatures.
Feel free to take liberties with these recipes to determine what works—or tastes—best in your kitchen, and to come up with new flavors.
Bread is a forgiving medium for experimentation … whenever you combine flour, yeast, water, and heat, you’ll usually end up with bread in some form, regardless of your kitchen credentials.
2 Add 11⁄2 cups water, and stir with rubber spatula. Add remaining water (and possibly more) as needed until you have a thoroughly mixed, wet, sticky mass of dough. (The dough will not be like any other bread you’ve made this will be much wetter and will not form a ball.)
3 Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, for 12 to 18 hours.
4 After 12 to 18 hours have passed, your dough should be dotted with bubbles and more than doubled in size. (It may also have a strong alcohol smell to it, but don’t mind that, it will burn off in the baking.) Dust wooden cutting board with bread our and, using plastic dough scrapers, scrape dough loose from sides of bowl and turn out onto board in one piece. (Dough will be loose and sticky, but do not add more our.) Dust top of loaf lightly with a little our, and cover with clean cotton or linen tea towel (terry cloth will stick and leave lint on the dough). Let dough rise for another 1 to 2 hours.
5 About 30 minutes before second rise is complete, place cast-iron pot, without lid, on rack positioned in lower third of oven not at the very bottom and heat oven to 475 F.
6 Once oven has reached 475 F, remove pot using heavy-duty potholders (be very careful at this stage, as the pot and oven are extremely hot). Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon coarse cornmeal evenly over bottom of pot.*
7 Uncover dough and, using 2 plastic dough scrapers, shape dough into a ball by folding it over onto itself a few times. With scrapers, lift
dough carefully and let it fall into preheated pot by slowly separating scrapers. Dust top of dough with coarse cornmeal.** Cover pot and bake for 30 minutes.
8 After 30 minutes, remove cover from pot, and continue baking for an additional 15 minutes, or until loaf is browned but not burned.
9 Remove pot from oven. With sturdy wooden or metal spatula, pry loaf from pot and transfer to cooling rack. Let bread cool for a minimum of 1 hour before slicing. (This cooling time completes the process and should not be overlooked!)
* For rye bread, sprinkle rye our on bottom of pot.
** For wheat bread, dust top with wheat bran; for rye, dust top with rye our; for oat raisin, dust top with old-fashioned oats; and for cardamom cherry, do not dust top with anything.
www.Grit.com 15
Wheat Bread
21⁄4 cups bread our
3 4 cup whole-wheat our 11⁄4 teaspoons salt
1 2 teaspoon active dry yeast
11⁄2 to 13 4 cups cool water, divided Wheat bran and coarse cornmeal for dusting
Use Bread Baking Method 1 on Page 15.
Dill Bread
3 cups bread our
2 tablespoons dried dill weed
11 4 teaspoons salt
1⁄2 teaspoon active dry yeast
BREAD BAKING METHOD 2:
1 Whisk together our, dill weed, salt, and yeast in large mixing bowl.
2 Combine buttermilk and 3⁄4 cup water in measuring cup, and add to dry ingredients. Stir with rubber spatula. Add remaining water as needed until you have a thoroughly mixed, wet, sticky mass of dough. (The dough will be much wetter than typical bread dough and will not form a ball.)
3 Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, for 12 to 18 hours.
4 After 12 to 18 hours have passed, your dough should be dotted with bubbles and more than doubled in size. (It may also have a strong alcohol smell to it, but it will burn off in the baking.) Dust wooden cutting board with bread our and, using plastic dough scrapers, scrape dough loose from sides of bowl and turn out onto board in one piece. (Dough will be loose and sticky, but do not add our.)
Oat Raisin Bread
3 cups bread our
1 2 cup old-fashioned oats
1 2 cup raisins
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 4 teaspoon allspice
1 4 teaspoon nutmeg
3 4 cup buttermilk
3 4 to 1 cup cool water, divided Coarse cornmeal for dusting*
Dust top lightly with our, and cover with cotton or linen tea towel (terry cloth will stick and leave lint on dough). Let dough rise for another 1 to 2 hours.
5 About 30 minutes before second rise is complete, place cast-iron pot, without lid, on rack positioned in lower third of oven not at the very bottom and then heat oven to 450 F.
6 Once oven has reached 450 F, remove pot using heavy-duty potholders (be very careful, as the pot and oven are extremely hot). Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon coarse cornmeal evenly over bottom of pot.
7 Uncover dough and, using 2 plastic dough scrapers, shape dough into a ball by folding it over onto itself a few times. With scrapers, lift dough and let it fall into preheated pot by slowly separating scrapers. Dust top of dough with coarse cornmeal.* Cover pot and bake for 35 minutes.
8 After 35 minutes, carefully remove cover from pot, and continue baking for additional 10 minutes, or until loaf is browned but not burned.
9 Remove pot from oven. With sturdy wooden or metal spatula, pry loaf from pot and transfer to cooling rack. Do not slice bread for a minimum of 1 hour this cooling time completes the process and should not be overlooked!
* For chocolate cherry bread, do not dust top with anything.
1 tablespoon wheat bran
11 4 teaspoons salt
1 2 teaspoon active dry yeast
13 4 cups cool water
Coarse cornmeal for dusting
Use Bread Baking Method 1 on Page 15.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 16
Cardamom Cherry Bread
3 cups bread our
3 4 cup dried tart cherries
1⁄2 cup chopped walnuts
13 4 teaspoons ground cardamom
11⁄4 teaspoons salt
1 2 teaspoon active dry yeast
13⁄4 cups cool water
Coarse cornmeal for dusting
Use Bread Baking Method 1 on Page 15.
Seeded Kamut Bread
21 4 cups bread our
3 4 cup Kamut our
11 4 teaspoons salt
1 2 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 tablespoon ground ax seed meal
1 2 cup pumpkin seeds
1 4 cup sun ower seeds, plus extra to sprinkle on top before baking
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, plus extra to sprinkle on top before baking
1 tablespoon poppy seeds, plus extra to sprinkle on top before baking
11 2 cups cool water
1 teaspoon honey, mixed into the cool water
Use Bread Baking Method 2 on Page 16.
Pumpkin Bread
21 2 cups bread our
1 2 cup spelt or whole-wheat our
11 4 teaspoons salt
1 2 teaspoon active dry yeast
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 2 teaspoon nutmeg
1 4 teaspoon ground cloves
3 4 cup cool water
1 cup puréed pumpkin or butternut squash, mixed into the cool water
1 tablespoon pumpkin seeds, to sprinkle on top before baking
Use Bread Baking Method 2 on Page 16.
www.Grit.com 17
Baguette
Prepare to become addicted: This baguette is unlike a traditional baguette in that it’s soft and avorful you can easily tear off chunks from the loaf.
It’s perfect for dipping in olive oil or spreading with butter or even on its own, thanks to the olive oil and salt on top. It’s also good for sandwiches, and it makes a great base for bruschetta.
To make this bread, you’ll need a baguette pan. Matfer blued steel pans from France are a great choice. You can nd them online through specialty baking sites or Amazon.
3 cups bread our
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1⁄4 teaspoon active dry yeast
3 4 teaspoon sugar
11⁄2 cups cool water
Extra-virgin olive oil and aked kosher salt
No-Knead Ciabatta
Yields 2 loaves.
STARTER (DAY 1):
1 cup unbleached all-purpose our
1⁄8 teaspoon instant yeast
3 4 cup water, room temperature
FINAL DOUGH (DAY 2):
21 2 cups unbleached all-purpose our
13 4 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1⁄8 teaspoon instant yeast
1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons water, room temperature
2 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil
Bread
ON DAY 1:
1 Two days (48 hours) before serving bread, prepare starter by stirring together our, yeast, and water in small bowl. Cover and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours.
ON DAY 2:
2 After 24 hours, prepare nal dough by whisking together our, salt, sugar, and yeast in large bowl. Add water, oil, and starter, and stir with dough whisk or spoon until mixture just comes together into wet, sticky dough. Cover with plastic wrap; let sit for 19 hours at room temperature.
3 Using a wooden spoon, stir dough a couple of strokes. Cover with plastic wrap; let rest for 2 additional hours.
4 Lightly spray 17-by-11-by-1-inch baking sheet with baking spray. Line sheet with parchment paper, and lightly our (about 1 teaspoon) in spots where loaves will go.
1 In large mixing bowl, whisk together our, salt, yeast, and sugar.
2 Add water, and stir with large rubber spatula until you have a thoroughly mixed, wet, sticky mass of dough.
3 Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature, out of direct sunlight, for 12 to 18 hours.
4 After 12 to 18 hours have passed, your dough should be dotted with bubbles and more than doubled in size. Dust wooden cutting board with bread our and, using plastic dough scrapers, scrape dough loose from sides of bowl and turn out onto board in one piece. Using dough scrapers, fold dough over and onto itself a few times to form a neat round of dough.
5 Pour a little olive oil into bowl, and brush surface of dough with oil. Sprinkle on a few pinches of kosher salt, then cover loosely with clean cotton or linen tea towel. Let dough rise for another 1 to 2 hours.
6 About 30 minutes before last rise is complete, heat oven to 475 F.
7 Once oven has reached 475 F, brush some olive oil in baguette pan, coating all surfaces thoroughly. Uncover bread and, using dough scrapers, cut dough circle in half. Separate halves and, using scrapers again, gradually work dough to elongate each piece to 12 inches. (You may have to fold the ends under or stretch it a bit with your hands to get an even baguette. Just don’t overwork it or obsess about perfect shape.)
8 Dust hands with our, then transfer each piece to baguette pan, stretching a little as you move it. Brush olive oil over top of each baguette, and sprinkle a little more Kosher salt. Bake for 15 minutes.
9 Remove from oven and slide onto cooling rack. Allow to cool for at least 1 hour before slicing.
Recipe from Plowing With Pigs and Other Creative, Low-Budget Homesteading Solutions, by Oscar H. Will III and Karen K. Will.
5 Turn dough out onto oured surface and sprinkle with lots of our. Shape dough into log, and cut in half. Transfer halves to prepared baking sheet, with logs set parallel with short end of pan. Press dough out to 10-by-4-inch rectangles. Dimple surfaces with oured ngertips. Sprinkle each rectangle lightly with our, then cover with oured tea towel or oil-sprayed plastic wrap. Let rise for 2 hours.
6 About 20 minutes before rise is complete, preheat oven to 450 F.
7 Uncover dough and place in oven on center rack. Reduce oven temperature to 425 F, and bake for about 30 minutes, or until crust is golden. Remove from oven and let bread cool on wire rack for about 1 hour.
8 Store bread, wrapped in aluminum foil, at room temperature for up to 2 days. This bread is best the day it’s baked, but can be reheated in a 350-degree oven until it crisps up again, about 10 minutes.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 18
Chocolate Cherry Bread
21 2 cups bread our
1⁄2 cup cocoa powder
1⁄2 cup dried tart cherries
1⁄2 cup bittersweet chocolate chips
1⁄4 cup chopped walnuts
1 teaspoon cinnamon
11 4 teaspoons salt
1⁄2 teaspoon active dry yeast
1⁄2 cup buttermilk
11 4 to 11 2 cups cool water
Coarse cornmeal for dusting
Use Bread Baking Method 2 on Page 16.
The Perfect Pot
I began baking my bread in 5- or 6-quart cast-iron and/or enameled cast-iron Dutch ovens, but my gooey dough didn’t seem to ll the expanse of those pots, and I ended up with a at, sometimes odd-shaped loaf. After stumbling upon a rare 31⁄2-quart enameled cast-iron Dutch oven at my local hardware store, I knew it was the perfect size just by eyeballing it. The bottom was smaller in circumference than the larger pots I was using, and the sides gently curved upward, giving the loaf a more de ned shape and some needed rise. The only problem was that doggone plastic knob!
The plastic knobs on the lids of most cast-iron Dutch ovens will melt in a 475-degree oven. Here’s a simple x: Replace it with a metal cabinet, or drawer-type knob from the hardware store. If its screw is too long for the lid, use washers or nip off the end of the screw to secure it tightly.
You can nd a selection of 31 2-quart cast-iron Dutch ovens online by doing a search; they aren’t usually stocked on the shelves of local big-box stores or even specialty cooking stores.
The other unique item on the equipment list (see “Bread Booty” below) is the elusive plastic dough scraper not to be found in town! Do a web search, and several will turn up on specialty and/or commercial-baking supply sites.
Bread Booty
• 31 2-quart cast-iron pot with lid and metal knob (do not use a pot with a plastic knob, or it will melt in the oven)
• large mixing bowl
• dry measuring cups
• liquid measuring cup
• measuring spoons
• large rubber spatula
• 2 plastic dough scrapers
• large wooden or glass cutting board
• cotton or linen tea towels
• heavy-duty potholders
• sturdy wood or metal spatula
• cooling rack
A Note on Cleanup
Let’s face it, wet, sticky dough is hard to clean up. Instead of ruining your scrubbers and sponges and taking the chance of clogging your sink by attacking the problem directly, use these methods:
• Dirty dough bowl: Swirl a little water in the bowl. Dump it out. Wipe a dry paper towel all around the bowl, picking up all the bits of dough, and discard.
• Tea towels: Pick off bits of dough before laundering.
• Cutting board: Use your plastic dough scrapers to scrape up all the leftover dough bits before cleaning it with soap and water.
Order Plowing With Pigs and Other Creative, Low-Budget Homesteading Solutions
by Oscar H. Will III and Karen K. Will by visiting www.grit.com/store
www.Grit.com 19
Baking Bread in Five Minutes a Day
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 20
By Becky Sell
Youcan do it. You can make tasty, healthy bread every week. You can be the busy mom of three, the work10-hours-per-day dad, or the awayfrom-home-most-of-the-time couple and still have homemade bread on the table every night.
Let me level with you: I am a wife, a mother of three, a farmer, a freelance designer, and a writer all in one day. Once I’m up, it’s go-go-go until long after the sun sets. I know how it is. Having a healthy meal in and of itself is challenging enough without the laborious task of mixing and kneading bread. But I came across a recipe and concept that changed our dinner table forever.
One of our favorite magazines published an article about a bread recipe that one could accomplish in five minutes per day. Not only that, it would taste like you just came out of a New York bakery. I was skeptical, but eager to be making my family’s bread. The article was about the authors of a book called Artisan Bread
in Five Minutes a Day
From the first batch of dough I made, it was a raving success! I can make a large batch to last the week, and I have not missed a single week (except for a twomonth period during harvest season).
You can do this, too! I have shared this recipe with countless friends and mothers within my sphere of influence. It’s easy. It’s beyond delicious. And the ideas are really fun. Let me take you through my steps. These are little variations I’ve found that work for me, and you can build off my experience.
The Basic Dough
This is a basic mix, and I do mean basic. People almost always raise their brows when I tell them the four ingredients that go into it. You can make a lot of different breads from this recipe alone. Pizza dough, cinnamon rolls, dinner buns. And of course, bread loaves.
3 cups warm water
11⁄2 tablespoons salt (preferably NOT table salt), or to taste
11⁄2 tablespoons dry yeast
61⁄2 cups all-purpose flour
Mixer
I make this recipe in a stand mixer with a dough hook. This is very important to the ease and timeliness of the bread making. If you don’t own a stand mixer, a food processor might work (I haven’t tried it), or a handheld mixer with a dough hook. If you are serious about getting into baking in general, I highly recommend a stand mixer. I went years without one, but now cannot imagine baking sans that stand.
The Water
Pour the 3 cups of warm water into your 5-quart-capacity stand mixer bowl. If you live in an old farmhouse like me, you might want to slosh hot water around the bowl to warm it up first, as it will likely have the appearance of frost coming out of the cupboard. Some people are adamant that you have
to have a certain temperature in which the yeast will “awaken” and do a little yeasty dance.
Pshaw! I haven’t used a thermometer yet, and I have never had a bread loaf come out flat. I like to dip my thumb in there, and if it feels comfortably warm, you’re probably good to go.
The Salt
Next, I add the tablespoon and a half of salt. In our house, we haven’t used table salt since ... well ... pretty much since I met Andy (a big-time foodie). We buy rock salt, and prefer Morton’s Kosher Salt just because we use so much of it. Otherwise, we recommend sea salt, for those with a higher budget. In general, avoid table salt. Nasty stuff (that’s a whole different article).
We like our bread a little saltier, so I actually now add 2 whole tablespoons of salt. Trust me; this won’t overpower your bread.
Put the salt in first, as it has the quality of halting the yeast’s development. It will sink right to the bottom anyway.
The Yeast
It really doesn’t matter what brand of yeast you choose. All you need to know is that buying those little packets will cost you big! Even if you buy the $7 to $8 jar in the grocery store, it will only last you about a month (if you make bread every week like we do). I poked around online and found bulk yeast at King Arthur
How one wife, mother, farmer, and writer puts fresh homemade bread on the dinner table daily.
ISTOCK/GMVOZD; PAGE 20: BECKY SELL www.Grit.com 21
Fresh homemade bread cools on wire racks, just waiting for the entire family.
Flour ( www.kingarthurflour.com ) in 2-pound bags. I ordered 4 pounds last November and have half a pound left. Did you know you can freeze yeast and it will be viable for up to two years? I just froze the big bags and dumped a small amount into one of those jars to keep in the fridge. When that gets emptied, I add more from the stock in the freezer. I found that even including shipping, I was saving almost a whole dollar per loaf by purchasing the yeast this way!
Gently pour in the tablespoon and a half of yeast, and it will spread over the top of the warm water.
The Flour
The basic recipe calls for all-purpose flour. This is because unbleached, white flour is the most common flour for baking breads. You can use organic flour or bleached if you prefer. From a health standpoint, the least-messed-around-with-flour is the best. I use unbleached allpurpose flour as my base ingredient.
Now, I know there are those of you who are hard-core whole-wheat fans. I respect that completely. And I have an answer for you ... later. This is the base recipe to get you started. From my experience in learning to be a bread maker, starting with white bread is the best way to build up your confidence. Whole wheat can be very unforgiving.
Measure the flour cup by cup with a dry measuring utensil. Scrape off the heap of flour so that it’s even with the top edges of the cup. I use the back of a butter knife to accomplish a nice, even line. I never used to think that packing in the flour made a difference, but it really does. A lot of extra weight is added to the dough if you don’t gently add flour to the cup. It takes a few more minutes, but it makes for more consistent breads.
Dump the flour into the bowl and place it back under the mixer.
Action!
Turn on the mixer at the lowest speed. It will begin to incorporate the ingredients and slow down. Then turn it up one notch and wait until the dough starts to form a ball and pick up extra flour around the edges. At this point, turn off the mixer and remove the bowl. I usually have to scrape some of the dough off the hook, and my daughter Elly usually helps me. This whole mixing process takes less than a minute.
Cover the bowl with a lid that doesn’t seal completely. Let the dough rise for two-ish hours. It takes longer if you have a colder kitchen and less time if it’s the heat of July. It will about double in size, sometimes more.
Now you’re ready to make up to two 2-pound loaves of bread. The dough is supposed to be sticky. In
fact, I recommend putting it in the refrigerator for an hour or so to make it more manageable.
No Kneading!
Get your baking containers ready. I use either a pizza stone for rounded, delistyle bread or bread pans for traditional dinner-style bread.
To keep it from sticking, I cover the bottom with cornmeal, flour, oatmeal or even grits. It works just as well as cooking spray and adds a unique texture to the finished bread. Another option I like is parchment paper. You just cut it to fit, and it can be reused over and over again.
Pull out a chunk of dough with your bare hands. It helps to sprinkle a lot of flour over the surface of the dough and your bare hands to keep it from sticking too much.
I use a simple kitchen scale to get roughly 2 pounds of dough, but if you lack a scale, the dough will be about the size of a really large grapefruit or a very small muskmelon.
Pull the dough together with your hands, making a rough ball, and place it into a bread baking pan or onto a pizza peel. The pizza peel should be covered with cornmeal, oatmeal, etc. When the dough is ready, you simply slide the dough from the peel into your oven onto your pizza stone.
Of course, we don’t own a pizza peel. I didn’t even know what one was until I
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 22
Elly works diligently on getting the dough off the hook. A 2-pound loaf will be about the size of a really large grapefruit or a small muskmelon.
looked it up online. I found that a sideless cookie sheet works just fine in the same capacity.
Once you have the dough in the proper baking container, let it rest for 40 to 60 minutes to warm up. Or, if you did not refrigerate the dough, it is ready now.
Baking It Bread-pan Style
Let’s say you took the bread-pan route. Heat oven to 350 F and place a broiler tray on the lowest shelf. If you don’t have a broiler tray (or didn’t know what that was, like me), you can use a brownie pan, pie pan, or any sort of oven-safe dish that will hold water.
Take a serrated knife, like a bread knife, and cut slashes into the top of the dough. This is not just for aesthetics; it really helps the dough rise in the oven, as dough sitting out tends to get a semihardened outer surface.
If you’ve ever seen or made bread that had an explosion out one side or the bottom, this was because the top was too hard for the bread to push up. Slashing just before it goes into the oven reduces this risk. (This step is super important when working with hard-to-rise whole wheat.)
At this point, I like to sprinkle a little more salt on top. Just a personal preference and something you might want to try. Or, add another tasty topping of your choice; granola anyone?
When the oven is ready, pour a cup or more of hot water into the brownie pan, being careful not to spill or burn yourself. Then add the bread pan and close the door as quickly as you can.
Set the timer for 60 minutes. I have found that our particular oven requires 70 minutes for a light brown crust. If you prefer a really dark crust, you’ll have to play with the timing in order to find what works in your oven.
At the end of the baking time, the water should be about evaporated, and your bread should be scenting up your entire house! Take it out and immediately dump it out of the bread pan to cool on a cooling rack. If it gets a little stuck, take a non-metal spatula to the sides and scoop down. The oatmeal or grits should be enough to free the bread from the bottom.
Baking It Pizza-stone Style
If you chose the pizza-stone route, heat the oven to 450 F and slash the dough a few times. Then slide the dough onto the stone when the oven is ready. Yes, your stone should have been in the oven as it was preheating. This will assure you an evenly crisp crust. Don’t forget the cup of hot water, and shut the door.
Set the timer for 30 minutes. That’s right, half the time to wonderful-tasting bread! I have found that 30 minutes is
pretty dead-on for getting fully cooked bread, but if you want a deeper crust, feel free to play with longer times.
When the timer goes off, carefully remove the bread from the stone. It’s so robust that I just grab it off the stone with an oven mitt and place it on the cooling rack.
Time to Eat!
Now is the time to be patient. You have worked hard, and you’re pleased with the bread. However, it will cut a
A nice alternative to cooking spray, ingredients like oatmeal, cornmeal, or even grits will prevent your bread from sticking while adding some unique texture to your delicious, yet simple, loaf.
LEFT TO RIGHT: BECKY
www.Grit.com 23
The beauty of this method is it allows for as much personal preference as you want to give it.
SELL (2); JUPITER IMAGES; BECKY SELL (2)
lot easier once it’s cooled down a little bit.
But come on, fresh warm bread with butter melting on it? OK, wait at least 10 minutes, or until you can hold the bread with your bare hands.
You did it! But guess what? You can build on this method and do so much more.
My Variations
Once I got this recipe down, I got a little bored. I wanted to see how far I could push it. There was a recipe for light wheat bread that called for 5 1⁄ 2 cups of all-purpose flour and 1 cup of whole wheat. I liked that option, but wondered how many cups of whole wheat I could use without messing up the recipe. This is what I discovered:
2 tablespoons salt, or to taste
11⁄2 tablespoons yeast
3 cups warm water
21⁄2 cups whole-wheat flour
4 cups all-purpose flour
Prepare the same as the basic recipe. Now you have 40 percent whole-wheat bread for your family!
Then I got a little goofy. Try 21⁄2 cups of rye flour. Or 21 2 cups of Oatmeal. It works! Try any sort of baking flour in place of the all-purpose up to 21⁄2 cups. Anything beyond that began to affect the rise of the bread during baking.
Get crazy; try corn flour. Why not? Another fun variation is to add dried herbs to the flour just before it’s mixed for an Italian bread. Oregano, rosemary, thyme, or savory are great.
For more flavor, replace 1 cup of water with 1 cup of warm milk.
Want More?
This recipe can be doubled or quadrupled with ease. I triple it every time I make bread. With my capacity mixer, I have to do the process three separate times. However, I then dump the dough into a medium-sized plastic container that fits in the bottom shelf of our fridge.
It has a flap lid that doesn’t close tightly, so it’s perfect for letting several batches of
dough sit and rise and then refrigerate. (You can see it in the doughrising photo at left.)
This dough can be made in bulk and then refrigerated for up to two weeks. In fact, if you let it go even one week, it starts to sour naturally. Imagine, sourdough bread without a starter, and all you had to do was let it sit!
It seems like the initial process is very time-consuming, but it rarely takes me longer than 20 minutes (with three kids at my feet). Then you have a whole week or two of ready-to-bake bread. You may find that your bread consumption increases, as we did. But that’s the beauty of this recipe. You are saving money in the long run and providing healthy bread for you and your family. Plus, people love homemade bread as gifts. After trying this recipe out, you can give away six 2-pound loaves at a time and only have to spend about 40 active minutes in your kitchen.
The 100 percent whole-wheat recipe is a bit more complicated with ingredients, but not in preparation and baking. Now, give ’er a try! Make it tonight when you get home from work and put it in the fridge overnight. Get up an hour early and serve homemade toast to the family when they come groggily into the kitchen.
Use it. Own it. This recipe will empower you to take bread making into your own bare hands!
A nifty dough storage container allows you to expand your bread-making capacity and saves time.
BECKY SELL (2) GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 24
To order The New Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoe Francois and other great titles visit our website at www.grit.com/store.
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Guide to BAKING
By Tabitha Alterman
WhenI first started baking with whole grains, my endeavors were limited to replacing some portion of white flour with whole-wheat flour—the easiest introductory step into whole-grain baking. Now I bake almost exclusively with whole-grain flours and use a much wider variety of grains. I don’t expect these to be standins for white flour. Instead, I tailor recipes to their individual personalities. Following are some of the time-tested tips I’ve discovered.
1: Replace White Flour With Whole Wheat
When your aim is to make standard white-flour recipes healthier, the easiest place to start is by substituting wholewheat flour. Begin your experiments by swapping about a quarter of the white flour with whole-wheat flour, then gradually increase the ratio with each successful recipe.
2: Keep Bitterness at Bay
If someone in your family is finicky
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 26
Use these 10 wholegrain baking techniques without fear of ruining your favorite recipes.
about whole wheat because they say they can detect bitterness, try this:
1. Replace a tablespoon of whatever liquid is in the recipe with orange juice, which balances wheat’s tannic flavors.
2. You should be absolutely sure your flour is fresh. Whole-grain flours are real, living foods. This means they can go bad. Taste a pinch to make sure it is faintly sweet with no noticeable mustiness or rancidity. Store wholegrain flours in airtight containers in the refrigerator or freezer.
3: Moisture on the Mind
All whole-grain flours absorb more liquid than white flour. If you have changed the flour composition of a bread dough to include more whole wheat, for example, it is wise to add extra liquid a bit at a time, keeping in mind that you can always incorporate more liquid later.
With other recipes, such as muffins or cookies, just bump the liquid component up a smidgen.
4: Sweet Success
Fresh whole-wheat flour is naturally sweeter than white flour. If you are adapting a recipe to include more whole wheat, reduce the recipe’s sweetener just a tad. Replace a cup of sugar with a scant cup, for example. Don’t overdo it because sugar is usually an important ingredient for structure as well as flavor.
5: Defi ne Your Purpose
Breads benefit when made with highprotein “hard” wheats. Pastries and desserts have better textures if prepared with low-protein “soft” wheat.
All-purpose flour, bleached or unbleached, is made from a blend of flours to achieve middle-of-the-road protein content that works adequately, but not necessarily best, for many purposes. If you are making a bread, replace the all-purpose flour with either regular whole-wheat flour or ideally with whole-wheat bread flour.
If you are making a dessert or pastry, replace the all-purpose flour with regular
whole-wheat flour or ideally with whole-wheat pastry flour. If a recipe calls for “cake flour,” go with wholewheat pastry flour.
6: To Gluten or Not to Gluten
You can adapt most recipes with any combination of flours you like as long as you keep their gluten content in mind. For most yeast bread recipes, your combination of flours must include at least half wheat flour for its gluten content. Gluten networks trap air bubbles to help breads rise. Flours that contain enough gluten to help breads rise include hard spring and winter wheat, soft wheat, Kamut, spelt, and triticale (a cross of wheat and rye). Flours that contain a little, but not a lot, of gluten include barley, durum, einkorn, emmer, and rye.
7: Homemade White Flour
White flour has had its nutritious bran and germ mechanically removed. If
TIM NAUMAN (2)
www.Grit.com 27
Whole grain flours are considered living foods. They can go bad and Alterman suggests you taste test your stored flours for freshness before baking.
Types of Flour
All of the following ours are exceptionally nutritious (and many are low-gluten or gluten-free). To reap the biggest dietary bene ts, try to incorporate a number of them into your cooking rotation. But remember to buy only the quantities you have room to store in your refrigerator or freezer.
AMARANTH FLOUR* has a bold avor some describe as woody, grassy or malty. Try pairing amaranth our with other bold ingredients, such as chiles, coffee, and pungent spices.
BARLEY FLOUR** was once the main our used for making bread in Europe. Its avor is sweet and malty, and it has a moist and creamy quality that comes through in baked goods.
BEAN FLOURS* have varying degrees of starchiness; the avor is the same as the bean. The most popular is garbanzo bean our, also called gram our (don’t confuse it with graham our).
BUCKWHEAT FLOUR* is rich and earthy with a savory or “umami” quality.
CORN FLOUR* is both sweet and bitter, so it pairs well with sweet and savory recipes. Corn our comes in a range of grittiness, so choose the coarseness you’ll want in your product.
MILLET FLOUR* has a mild, cornlike avor. Use it in recipes where you might use cornmeal.
NUT FLOURS* add moist fat that carries the speci c nut avor into your recipe. The most popular nut ours are almond, chestnut, coconut, hazelnut, pecan, and walnut. To make your own, grind shelled nuts (with or without skins) in a food processor, but watch closely. There’s a ne line between nut our and nut butter.
OAT FLOUR* is mild and nutty, and adds tremendous moisture to baked goods. Oats can be used to create various textures, depending whether they are whole, chopped, or pulverized.
POTATO FLOUR* is mild- avored and is usually used to add starch to baked goods.
QUINOA FLOUR* is even more strongly avored than amaranth, with a touch of bitterness.
RICE FLOUR* can be sticky or not. Short-grain rice tends to create sweeter, stickier ours than those made from long-grain rice.
RYE FLOUR** is similar to oat our in its ability to add boatloads of moisture to a baked good, but the avor is wildly different. Rye has a dark, heavy avor that can be described as fruity.
SEED FLOURS* such as ax seed bring the avor and oils of the seed into your recipe. For the freshest product, grind seeds yourself in a coffee grinder or food processor.
SORGHUM FLOUR* tastes much like wheat, but a bit sweeter.
TEFF FLOUR* is strong- avored and malty. It is usually fermented brie y before use, which adds an intense sourness.
WHEAT FLOURS include whole wheat; soft wheat (used to make pastry our); graham our (coarsely ground whole wheat); durum (usually made into coarse semolina our for pasta and pizza); einkorn; farro; spelt; and Kamut. Einkorn and farro are light and re ned. Kamut is buttery. Spelt is nutty. Experiment to see which is your favorite. Triticale, another healthful our, is a cross between rye and wheat.
* Gluten-free ** Low in gluten
you look closely at particles of bran, you’ll see jagged edges. In soft baked goods, such as cookies and cakes, the potentially destructive effects of jagged edges need not concern us too much. In bread dough and highly structured baked goods, on the other hand, these edges act like tiny razor blades destroying gluten networks, leading to less rise and denser results. If you’re worried about compromising the soft, light qualities of a baked good by including whole-wheat flour, consider making your own “white” flour.
Instead of leaving most of the jagged bran inside doughs, I often sift them out and use them to dust the pizza peel where my loaves rise before going into the oven. The crumb remains soft and creamy with plenty of air. Or I find another way to keep the bran in the baked good; for example, sprinkling it into streusel toppings. Sifting out bran is easy: Just dump flour through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, and voilá!
8: Lighten Up
Some people are turned off by the heavier texture of whole-wheat baked goods. This problem is often the result of technique, not ingredients. Many recipes instruct us to sift flour before mixing it into batters and doughs, yet many people ignore this. Sifting incorporates air and helps create light textures; it’s especially useful when using naturally heavier whole-grain flours. Sifting dry ingredients also helps distribute baking soda and baking powder evenly—essential for getting the best possible rise.
Old-fashioned flour sifters that you crank or shake to pass flour through sieves work just as well today as they always have. My favorite method for sifting flour, however, is to process it in a food processor with the other dry ingredients. It only takes about five seconds, and you get the added benefit of superfine flour. You can also use a hand mixer or whisk to thoroughly mix and distribute dry ingredients.
9:
Worthier Wheats
Over the last 50 years, wheat varieties have been bred to increase yield rather than increasing or even preserving inherent nutrition. Donald R. Davis, nutrition scientist at the Center for Sustaining Agriculture and Natural Resources at Washington State University at Pullman, has written extensively about nutrient losses in wheat, first in 1981 about losses from wheat refining, and more recently about losses from wheat breeding. Breeding has caused substantial declines in copper, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, sulfur, and zinc. There are also protein losses, and evidence for declining amounts of phytochemicals. By buying flour from farmers who are committed to providing a product with superior nutrition and flavor, you can subvert this troubling trend. A few of my favorite grain companies are Wheat Montana; Bluebird Grain Farms; Pleasant Hill Grain; Bob’s Red Mill; King Arthur Flour; and The Urban Homemaker.
10: Branch Out
It is not always necessary to build a network of gluten to make a baked good rise. You can try swapping some of the white flour
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 28
in a recipe with a nonwheat flour if the recipe contains either baking powder or baking soda, or if it gets its rise from a mixing method that incorporates lots of air bubbles—you can spot these if the instructions require you to cream butter with sugar; to whip cream before incorporating it; or to whip egg whites into soft or stiff peaks before folding them into the batter gently.
Nutritious gluten-free flours include amaranth, buckwheat, corn, millet, oat, quinoa, rice, sorghum, and teff.
To reap the biggest dietary benefits, incorporate a number of them into your cooking rotation.
Learn more about the different flour options in “Types of Flour” on Page 28.
White Flour’s Slow Decline
The first record of bread was a flatbread made around 6700 B.C. By 3000 B.C., the Egyptians had learned to leaven it. By the time of the Roman Empire, millers could make a version of white flour, which quickly became popular.
That white flour, made by sifting out some of the coarsest pieces of bran but retaining most of the healthful germ, was a distant cousin to today’s commercial white flour. I love that kind of white flour. I make it all the time.
Homemade white flour—which is actually tan—is not to be confused with today’s commercially refined white flour, which contains only about three-quarters of the original wheat that entered the mill, plus some extra junk wheat has never possessed.
What has been removed? Nutritious bran and germ.
What has been added? Chlorine, nitrogen oxide, acetone, peroxide, ascorbic acid, and potassium bromate, to name just a few of the 30-plus chemicals that brighten, moisten, condition, aerate, preserve, sweeten, and, sadly, add flavor.
As science learns more about the makeup of a healthy diet, one fact has become clear: Refined grains are bad for our health—and our waistlines. Saying
that a grain is “whole” means that it has three essential parts: the endosperm, the bran, and the germ.
Unlike the refined white flour in processed food and in most of our pantries, in which the nutritious bran and germ have been removed, whole-grain flours contain plenty of fiber, vitamins, and minerals, plus healthy plant compounds such as lignans, phytoestrogens, and phenolic compounds.
These important nutrients can help us maintain a healthy weight and reduce the risk of numerous diseases, including type 2 diabetes, hypertension, cardiovascular disease, stroke, gallbladder disease, respiratory dysfunction, gout, osteoarthritis, and some cancers.
This article is adapted from Whole Grain Baking Made Easy: Craft Delicious, Healthful Breads, Pastries, Desserts and More by Tabitha Alterman, Voyaguer Press. You can order from the Grit Bookstore.
TIM NAUMAN www.Grit.com 29
Try substituting a new-to-you whole grain flour for a small amount of your standard white flour to gain nutrition without losing familiar lightness in baked goods.
To Bake the Best Bread G OWN GRAIN
Healthy reasons you should consider grinding your own grain at home.
By Carol J. Alexander
In a quest for healthier, tastier eating, many folks have returned to the art of baking bread. What they don’t realize is that they go to all that trouble to get good flavor with flour that may be a bit short on nutrients when compared with the wheat from which it’s been milled. That’s right—depending on the type, flour can lose up to 45 percent of its nutrients through oxidation within the first 24 hours of milling, and 90 percent within the first three days.
So what’s a home baker to do for best flavor and nutrition? Grind your own grain fresh, of course.
Using a hand-powered mill, you can grind the wheat, as well as other grains, needed for a onepound loaf of whole-wheat bread in less than 5 minutes, and you’ll burn a few calories in the process.
Where Did the Nutrition Go?
Of the 44 known nutrients essential for good health, only four are not found in wheat: vitamins A, B12, and C, and the mineral iodine. Commercial wheat milling to create white flour removes bran and germ, resulting in flour that is missing up to 80 percent of its nutrients. Manufacturers do enrich commercially made flour, but with only four nutrients. So what about the other 40—and the fiber?
Maybe you think all those nutrients would be destroyed in a 350-degree oven
anyway, but this is not so according to Sue Becker, the founder and owner of Bread Beckers Inc., and former industrial food scientist.
First, even though we bake bread in a 350-degree oven or hotter, bread is done when its internal temperature reaches 185 degrees. In a recent interview, Becker explains that the enzymes in the grains make the nutrients more bioavailable when they are heated. Some
other; you simply need to know how you will use it before buying.
If all you want is whole-wheat flour, any mill on the market can deliver. But if you want to crack your grains for grits, mill oily grains, seeds, or beans, a burr mill might prove more useful. Generally, burr mills are hand cranked. Don’t let that deter you. Many come with motor and bicycle kits. With a little do-it-yourself spirit, most folks can handle this adaptation with no problem. The advantage of the impact mill is speed. It can mill enough flour for a batch of muffins in less than a minute—but it produces only flour.
The Wheat
nutritional value may be lost, but some is enhanced by this design. She also points out that the vitamin E found in whole wheat is not destroyed by cooking. Convinced? Let’s get started grinding grain at home.
The Equipment
Before you go shopping for wheat, you need a mill to grind it. Grain mills come in two types: the electric impact mill that bursts the grain open, and the burr mill, which rubs the grain between two wheels of stone or stainless steel. Neither type of mill is better than the
You don’t have to grow your own wheat to grind your own flour. If you want a local product, you should ask around at your farm store to see if anyone knows a wheat grower in the area. If you can’t find a local farmer, check out the nearest bulk food supplier. I buy Wheat Montana wheat from a grocer who stocks bulk foods. A 50-pound bag costs $28 to $42 depending on the variety.
To make bread, or any kind of yeast dough, use a hard white spring wheat or hard red wheat. The red wheat has a stronger flavor and darker color than the white. However, for something like pizza crust, where you want a milder flavor, it’s best to use the white. Spring
FOTOLIA/ALAETTIN YILDIRIM GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 30
Flour can lose up to 45 percent of its nutrients through oxidation within the first 24 hours of milling.
Grinding your own grains makes breads that are healthier and tastier than store-bought varieties. www.Grit.com
31
wheat has a higher protein content, which gives you a lighter loaf. To make pastries, cakes, pancakes, or any product using baking soda or baking powder, use soft white wheat. The hard wheat will work here, but the soft wheat will give a lighter texture.
You do not have to mix store-bought, white flour with your whole wheat. The secret to a light, soft loaf of bread is to make it immediately after grinding your grain. If baking with whole wheat is new to you, and your bread is still
not light enough for your palate, try adding egg, honey, or lecithin to your recipe. Some folks will start with a halfand-half recipe and slowly replace the white flour with whole grain until they are used to the flavor and texture of 100-percent whole wheat.
If you want to adapt a recipe that you’re already comfortable with, simply replace all flour products in it (flour, germ, gluten) with your freshly ground flour. Measure the flour after milling, as you will get more than 1 cup of flour from 1 cup of wheat—how much more will depend on the variety and the coarseness of the grind. From my personal experience, whole wheat tends to be drier than white flour, so your dough will not be as sticky and you will probably not add as much in the kneading process. Baking times should be comparable with each other.
If you want the health benefits of grinding your own grain, don’t be tempted to add gluten to your own recipe. According to the Whole Grains Council (WGC), “If the grain has been processed, the food product should deliver approximately the same rich balance of nutrients that are found in
Have the children help grind grains at home, and they will learn valuable and interesting—and fun—lessons about the foods they eat.
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 32
Maize being ground with a mortar.
the original grain seed.” Becker says adding the additional gluten to the whole wheat upsets the balance that the WGC refers to, thus rendering the bread no longer “whole grain.”
Storage
Since I buy my wheat in 50-pound bags, I have to store it somewhere safe. If it is kept in an environment free of pests and moisture, wheat will keep indefinitely. In fact, legend holds that wheat kernels found in Egyptian pyramids have sprouted.
When I bring my wheat home from the store, I pop the bag into the freezer for three or four days to kill any unwanted pests that may have made its home from wherever the bag has been. I then take the bag out and bring it up to room temperature—this may take a day or so—before transferring it into a food-grade, 5-gallon bucket, preferably one with a lid that screws on and off easily, and has a rubber gasket to keep out any moisture. If you put the grain in the bucket right out of the freezer, it will produce moisture inside from the change in temperature. Likewise, if you store your wheat in the freezer, you will need to bring it up to room temperature before milling.
Who could possibly resist the smell of bread fresh from the oven? Or wholewheat pancakes douched heavily with warm, home-churned butter and maple syrup? What about tortillas, soft and warm, right off the griddle? Someone once asked me how my whole-wheat bread turns out so light and soft. Well, now you know all of my secrets. And it’s not only healthier, but it even tastes better, too.
Grain is being ground on an old-fashioned waterpowered grist mill.
Flour gets ground manually with a stone.
LEFT
www.Grit.com 33
Someone once asked me how my wholewheat bread turns out so light and soft. Now you know my secrets.
TO RIGHT: GRAINMAKER; FOTOLIA/VMARTINA; ISTOCK/SARAH_SADIAN1LINGBEEK
Take your baking a step further with a home grain mill that produces delicious flour.
By Carol J. Alexander
Who can resist a loaf of bread, warm from the oven with a slab of cheddar on top? Or whole-wheat pancakes slathered in butter and maple syrup? What about tortillas fresh off the griddle, fi lled with beans, rice, salsa, and sour cream? ese mouthwatering temptations can be staple foods at your home, made with fl our milled right in your kitchen.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 34
Choosing the best mill for your family’s needs is the first step. Considering the investment in a grain mill, an understanding of the different types of mills is important before making your decision.
Grain mills come in two types: the electric impact mill that bursts the grain open, and the burr mill, which rubs the grain between two wheels of stone or stainless steel. Neither mill is better than the other; they just operate differently and perform different tasks. It’s important to know what your purposes are before purchasing a mill.
Any mill on the market can produce fl our of varying coarseness, but if you want to crack your grains for grits, or mill oily grains, seeds, and beans, you need a burr mill. Even then, some burr mills do not accommodate oily grains, because the mills are sealed and cannot be cleaned after use.
Generally, burr mills are hand cranked. Don’t let that deter you, though. Some manufacturers also sell motor and bicycle kits (pedal-powered milling). Most homesteaders accustomed to DIY projects can handle this adaptation with no problem at all.
e advantage of the electric impact mill is speed. is type of mill goes from whole grain to fine flour as fast as a fighter jet—but it sounds like one, too. Impact mills only produce flour, and never from an oily grain or seed. ey require electricity, so if you do not have power, you cannot make bread.
Once you understand the different types of mills, you have the knowledge necessary to start comparing brands. e following mills are considered some of the most popular on the market.
Country Living Grain Mill
We chose the Country Living Grain Mill for our home, because we could operate it during a power outage and use it for grinding corn or beans. My favorite feature is that while most mills produce only fl our, the Country Living mill can also produce grits or cracked grains for cereal. It also grinds oily grains or peanuts, and, in fact, they off er a special attachment for making peanut butter.
e fi rst thing you will notice about the Country Living Grain Mill is that muscles are required to operate it. However, the large fl ywheel and long extension bar make it easier to turn than other hand-operated mills. As a small-framed woman, I did fi nd turning the mill challenging. For the fi rst year, my sons ground all our fl our. Eventually, my husband attached an old washing machine motor to it so I could
operate it myself—since sons have the habit of growing up and moving out of the house. If you don’t have a motor on hand, Country Living sells a motor kit for this purpose. Instructions are on their website.
Diamant Grain Mill
Another popular hand-operated mill is the Diamant. Made of solid cast iron and weighing 58 pounds, it is a workhorse. Like the Country Living mill, you can attach the Diamant to a peripheral motor.
Brian omas of Missouri purchased his Diamant 15 years ago. He attached an electric motor and has used it for several years in his small-scale bakery operation without so much as a hiccup. Now, he cranks it by hand to create flour for his family.
www.Grit.com 35
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: BELISAMAIMAGEBROKER/AGE; COURTESY GRAINMAKER; COURTESY LEHMAN’S; COURTESY COUNTRY LIVING
Above, left to right: The Country Living mill can produce cracked grains, grits, and even peanut butter with a special attachment; the Diamant mill pre-cracks grains before grinding into our.
Top: With stainless steel augers and hand-cut burrs, the GrainMaker can produce a large quantity of our in a short amount of time, and it carries a lifetime warranty on all parts, if used under normal household conditions.
“The hand cranking is more of a mental challenge than a physical one,” Thomas says. “You have to face the fact that you have to sit there for 20 minutes doing nothing but turning this crank.” But when I asked him if someone with less strength could handle it on a regular basis, he wasn’t so sure.
Unlike the Country Living mill, the Diamant has pre-grinding teeth to crack the grains into smaller pieces before they are pushed through to the grinding plates. These teeth eliminate the need for changing augers for larger grains or beans, but you cannot grind peanuts or other oily grains in the Diamant.
Considerably more costly than other handcrank mills, Thomas feels the price is worth the investment. “The money I made from selling bread more than paid for it. And, it’s built to last generations,” he says.
GrainMaker
The GrainMaker, manufactured by Bitterroot Tool & Machine of Montana, is another burr mill. The basic model weighs in at 25 pounds and measures a little more than 13 inches tall. Constructed of solid steel, this high-end mill comes with a lifetime warranty on all parts, including the burrs.
Features that set the GrainMaker apart from the rest of the pack include the stainless steel augers and the hand-cut burrs. Other manufacturers pour their burrs into a mold. GrainMaker machinists cut each burr by hand.
Cindy Connor of Virginia used a Country Living mill for 11 years before seeing the GrainMaker at a Mother Earth News Fair. After trying it out, she bought it on the spot. Comparing the two, she prefers the GrainMaker, which she operates on a regular basis by hand. Why? With 300 revolutions of the crank, the GrainMaker produces twice the volume of flour than the Country Living mill.
According to Bonnie Jones, co-owner of GrainMaker with her husband, Randy, the size of the burrs and the pattern cut in the burrs account for this dramatic difference in the volume of flour.
WonderMill
One of the most popular electric impact mills is the WonderMill. The WonderMill ranks as the quietest of the impact mills with a decibel rating of 49 (typical conversation is around 60). Angi Schneider of Texas owns both the WonderMill and the Blendtec Kitchen Mill (also known as the K-tec mill) and says, “The WonderMill is just a little quieter.”
The WonderMill grinds 90 pounds of flour in an hour. Its hopper holds six cups of grain, and the flour is dispensed into a bin that sits next to the mill.
Blendtec Kitchen Mill
The Blendtec Kitchen Mill compacts for easy storage, which is a great selling point, says Schneider. The canister holds more flour than the WonderMill, but you have to disassemble the unit to remove the flour. Schneider purchased her Blendtec more than 15 years ago and still loves it. “I love them both,” she says. “They both have pros and cons, but they’re both great machines.”
NutriMill
Christina Kamp of Oklahoma likes knowing that the flour she cooks with has the highest
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 36
Breads made with freshly milled grains taste delicious and contain a wealth of nutrients.
Right: The KoMo Fidibus Classic is a compact and attractive mill; you might even keep it on display.
nutritional value possible and is not contaminated with anything. She also buys non-GMO wheat from a local farmer, so she knows the bread products she bakes for her husband and seven day-care children are the best she can make.
A major selling point on the NutriMill website is that it is “self-cleaning.” Kamp says she only has to wipe the flour residue out of the hopper—it’s that easy. She also appreciates the more compact construction of the NutriMill, noting that the collection bowl of this mill is underneath the mill, which helps to conserve space. She also says that the hopper holds more grain than other brands of mills.
KoMo Grain Mills
KoMo manufactures both electric and handcrank models. If you opt for an electric model, it combines the speed and ease of an electric mill with the versatility of a burr mill. As previously mentioned, impact mills have special rules. With one, you add the grain and turn it on. With another, you turn it on and then add the grain. If you forget and do it in the wrong order, you run the risk of damaging your mill. A burr mill is not complicated, which also applies to the KoMo.
“It seems to me to be the mill with the least trouble,” says Daisy Siskin of Tennessee. “With the KoMo, there is less risk in terms of doing something wrong.” She pointed out that she can even change the fineness of her flour in the middle of operating the mill.
e KoMo mill is beautiful and compact, taking up only 8 square inches on your counter.
e corundum-ceramic burrs are housed in a sealed hardware cabinet that requires no cleaning. And while it is almost as fast as an impact mill, it is much quieter.
“ e mill is less noisy than my Ninja mixer,” says Siskin, “and I’m not at all concerned of waking a sleeper when running it.” is is just a sampling of the grain mills on the market for home kitchens. Determine what you need from a grain mill, and choose one that fits your budget and will help you satisfy your baking needs. Whichever one you choose, your family is sure to notice the difference when you start using freshly milled grains.
Resources
■ COUNTRY LIVING GRAIN MILL
Country Living Products 14727 56th Ave. NW Stanwood, WA 98292-8909
360-652-0671
info@countrylivingmills.com www.countrylivinggrainmills.com
■ DIAMANT GRAIN MILL
Lehman’s is the sole U.S. distributor of the Diamant Grain Mill. 4779 Kidron Road Dalton, OH 44618-9287
800-438-5346
www.lehmans.com
■ THE GRAINMAKER
GrainMaker Products
P.O. Box 130 Stevensville, MT 59870-0130
855-777-7096
sales@grainmaker.com
www.grainmaker.com
■ BLENDTEC KITCHEN MILL
Blendtec Corporate Headquarters
1206 S. 1680 W. Orem, UT 84058-4938
800-748-5400
www.blendtec.com
■ THE WONDERMILL
The WonderMill is sold by select retailers. To nd a retailer, or for more information about the mill, visit the website, call, or email.
208-234-9352
service@thewondermill.com
www.thewondermill.com
■ THE NUTRIMILL
NutriMill Corporate Of ce (Customer Service)
50 E. 100 S. Suite 201
St. George, UT 84770-2316
800-692-6724
sales@nutrimill.com
www.nutrimill.com
■ KOMO GRAIN MILLS
Pleasant Hill Grain of Nebraska is the sole U.S. distributor of KoMo Grain Mills. 210 S. First St. Hampton, NE 68843-9348
866-467-6123
info@pleasanthillgrain.com
www.pleasanthillgrain.com
www.Grit.com 37
CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY PLEASANT HILL GRAIN; FOTOLIA/TIMMARY; COURTESY BLENDTEC; COURTESY WONDERMILL
The WonderMill is able to produce our quickly, while keeping noise at a minimum. Insert: The Blendtec mill is dependable and compact; perfect if kitchen space is limited.
Sfor Baking
GYou probably already know that alfalfa and mung bean sprouts add nutrition and color to sandwiches, salads, stir-fries, and soups. However, sprouted wheat and other grains provide similar health benefi ts, as well as adding fl avor and interesting texture to breads and other foods. As you think about your favorite holiday recipes, consider adding sprouted grains to your own repertoire.
In his book On Food and Cooking , Harold McGee says, “Sprouts have nutritional value midway between that of the dry seed, which they just were, and a leafy green vegetable, which they’re on their way to becoming.” Sprouted grains and other seeds are lower in calories than most vegetables, and higher in protein; vitamin C; B-complex vitamins; and minerals such as iron, calcium, and potassium. e carbohydrates in sprouted grains are also more easily digested because of the enzymes activated during sprouting.
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 38
Add sprouted grains to baked goods for extra protein, vitamins, and minerals without excess calories.
What to Sprout
Technically, you can sprout any grain that’s whole, uncracked, and untreated. Wheat is the obvious choice for baking, but amaranth, hull-less barley, buckwheat, corn, einkorn, farro, kamut, millet, quinoa, rice, rye, sorghum, and spelt can all be easily sprouted. Oats sprout well, but you’ll need to look for untreated oats specifically intended for sprouting; because oats are relatively high in fat, they’re often steam- or heattreated before drying, which will prevent the grain from sprouting.
Milling and cracking crush the germ inside grain, destroying the embryo plant, so they can’t sprout. Likewise, grains that have been hulled, husked, pearled, rolled, or fl aked won’t sprout. I recommend starting with wheat because it’s often easier to fi nd as a whole grain than other choices, and it also sprouts reliably.
You can usually fi nd common grains such as wheat, spelt, and rye in the bulk foods section of health or natural food stores
Where to Buy Whole Grains
Bob’s Red Mill
www.bobsredmill.com
Grain Place Foods www.grainplacefoods.com Organic Grains www.organicgrains.com
in your area. Untreated sprouting oats, einkorn, and other lessfamiliar grains may be harder to fi nd locally, but can be purchased online (see “Where to Buy Whole Grains,” below).
Get Sprouting
Sprouting isn’t fermentation— you’re simply germinating grain, much like any other kind of seed, except you’re not going to grow mature plants. You want the grain to just barely sprout.
Use a small amount of grain, say ¼ cup, until you get the feel of the sprouting process. A little goes a long way; the grain will increase in weight by half again during the sprouting process, and you only need about ½ cup sprouted grains per loaf of bread.
You always should start out by rinsing the grain and picking out any stones or visible dirt. Put the rinsed grain into a container, and then you can cover it with room-temperature, non-chlorinated water—spring or filtered water is best. A ratio of about two parts water to one part grain is
Other Uses for Sprouted Grain
If your sprouts are ready to bake, but you aren’t, then refrigerate them and use them up within a few days in salads, casseroles, or soups. Sprouted grains are a great treat for chickens or turkeys, too!
After you get used to the process of sprouting grains, I’m confident you’ll find that you enjoy taking one more step toward being in charge of your diet and health. Sprouted grains are an easy, inexpensive way to add nutrition and variety to many different foods. Here’s to a healthy diet that’s rich in whole grains!
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F ROM TOP A DOBE S TOCK /D ANIEL V INCEK / CHARLOTTELAKE ; PAGE 38: ADOBE STOCK / A RKADIUSZ F AJER
Shiloh Farms www.shilohfarms.com
Sprouting grains is a simple way to increase the amount of nutrients available in your baked goods.
No-Knead Sprouted Grain Bread
This no-knead recipe calls for sprouted wheat and is great for learning how to bake with sprouted grains. Don’t use more than about ½ cup sprouted grains per loaf of bread. It doesn’t sound like much, but too much sprouted grain can interfere with the gluten structure of the bread and prevent it from rising properly. Start small, and then try larger amounts or different grains as you gain experience. Everything, from the flour you use to the humidity levels in your kitchen, can affect your results.
1½ cups lukewarm, non-chlorinated water
1 teaspoon instant yeast
2¼ cups unbleached bread flour
1 cup whole-wheat flour
1½ teaspoons sea salt
½ cup sprouted hard wheat berries
1 Measure the water and yeast into a mixing bowl, and stir to dissolve the yeast. Add the flours and salt, and stir with a wooden spoon until the dough starts to come together in a soft, solid mass.
2 Let the dough rest for about 20 minutes. Stir in the sprouted grains, and then
cover the mixing bowl with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel. You could also use a 2-quart dough-rising bucket—scrape the dough into the bucket and put the lid on.
3 Let the dough ferment at room temperature until it roughly doubles in volume, about 1½ hours. Lightly grease or oil a regular loaf pan. Turn the dough out onto a floured cutting board or countertop, and gently shape into an oblong that fits in your loaf pan. I like to wear nitrile gloves for the shaping process, because I find the dough doesn’t stick to the gloves nearly as much as it sticks to my hands. The less you manhandle the dough at this point, the better.
4 Put the shaped loaf in the pan, cover lightly and let it rise again while the oven preheats. The dough won’t double in volume this time; it may reach about 1½ times its original volume instead.
5 Preheat your oven to 450 degrees Fahrenheit. Bake your bread for 40 to 45 minutes; if you prefer free-form loaves on a baking stone, check them at 35 minutes. A few test runs will reveal what works best with your oven, but most 1-pound loaves should bake within 35 to 50 minutes at 450 degrees.
6 Let the bread cool briefly in the pan, then tip it out onto a cooling rack. Cool for at least an hour before slicing.
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 40
ideal. Then, you can cover the container and let the grain soak for about 12 to 24 hours.
Drain the water off the grain, but save it! You can use it to make bread or water your plants, as it’s rich in enzymes and minerals.
Put the grain back in the container, cover it with a damp, clean kitchen towel, and keep it at room temperature in a dark place—I put mine in a cupboard. Rinse with room-temperature, non-chlorinated water at least once every 12 hours. Depending on how warm it is in your kitchen, you might see the first tiny tail of a sprout within 3 to 6 hours. Be patient, though; some grains take longer than others to sprout, but most will be ready to use within 1 to 3 days.
The Daily Grind
You can grind barely sprouted grain into a flour that will make a fairly light yeast bread, while grinding grain when it’s been sprouted longer tends to result in a denser loaf. Because three days of sprouting brings enzyme activity to its peak, it’s best to stop the sprouting process at about three days to begin drying the sprouted grains.
I recommend drying sprouted grains in a dehydrator, not in the oven. Line the dehydrator trays with non-stick sheets, such as parchment paper, and dry the grains for 12 to 18 hours. You want the grain to be firm and dry before you grind it.
Any mill designed for dry grain can handle dried sprouted grain, too. To retain the nutritional benefits of sprouting, avoid over-grinding; at and above 120 degrees Fahrenheit—a temperature some grain mills can reach when grinding room-temperature grain— some of the enzymes activated through sprouting will be destroyed.
Don’t attempt to grind wet grain sprouts with a grinder only designed for dry grain. If you want to grind wet sprouts and aren’t sure whether your mill is suited for wet material, use a meat grinder, chopping knife, blender, or food processor instead.
If you don’t really have time to sprout or grind grains, but you still want a flavor, texture, and nutrition boost for your bread, you can substitute about ½ cup whole or coarsely cracked grain in the recipe on Page 40. Steam the grain until it’s al dente, drain, and cool before adding to the bread dough.
Sprouting Science
Moisture activates amylase—an enzyme in the endosperm that converts starch to sugar—initiating the sprouting process. Amylase in grain transforms stored starches into food for the growing plant; in our saliva, it initiates carbohydrate digestion. “Malting” also refers to sprouting and drying grain, typically for brewing, and gave rise to the name “maltose” for the primary sugar sprouted grains produce. The maltose produced during sprouting feeds yeast during fermentation—useful for bakers and brewers alike. Sprouted grain helps bread rise well during fermentation, brown nicely during baking, and taste pleasantly sweet.
www.Grit.com 41 CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: STOCKSY/GARY PARKER; A dobe S tock /M A rek k o SMA l / DENIS TABLER
42
Beautiful Bread
By William Rubel
The English once called it “godes good,” believing it was a demonstration of God’s kindness. Yeast earned its place of respect because, for thousands of years, it was the invisible workhorse that fermented our fruits and grains to make wine, beer, and sake, and that quickly brought life to an otherwise inert dough of flour and water.
Yeast!
migrated from nature into our homes. Like cats, yeast is a semi-domesticated organism. This means that while the yeast that’s around our houses, and in and on our persons, has changed somewhat from its wild ancestor, they’re still very similar.
yeasted breads like many bakers do their sourdough breads, you can be the master of making the bread soft with a sweet, fresh aroma or giving it the chewier texture and tangy flavor of a sourdough bread. You can do this by altering the amount of yeast, the temperature of the dough, and the time and environment in which the dough ripens.
Yeast thrives on sugar, producing alcohol and carbon dioxide as waste products. What good luck is that? Farmers recognized yeast’s usefulness very early in the history of plant domestication and farming. One of the most robust of the wild sugar-loving yeasts, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, became so central to fermenting activities that it
“Yeast” comes from Middle English “yest,” meaning foam or froth. If you add 1 teaspoon of yeast and a similar amount of sugar to 1/4 cup of warm water and leave it for a few minutes— it will begin to foam up. While people didn’t have an accurate scientific understanding of what yeast was until the late 19th century, they knew what it did and how to collect it and make use of it.
Yeast is good because it’s so easy to use and so easy to manage. If you put creativity and imagination into
By adjusting the amount of water, you can shift from the fine-textured crumb of sandwich bread to the large holes of Italian ciabatta. I want to offer you a recipe with the flour-to-water ratio of many French-style breads, which will give you a nice open crumb and a crisp crust. Make it a couple of times, and then start improvising.
Bring Art to the Table
This recipe lends itself to experimentation, and will make a versatile loaf with a smooth crust.
I want to introduce you to the idea of personalizing your bread by decorating the crust. All over the world, innovative bakers see the surfaces of their breads as
Sourdough seems to get all the love—give yeasted bread a turn in the limelight with these stenciled designs.
REBECCA MARTIN (2); PAGE 42: QUEREN KING-OROZCO
www.Grit.com 43
Stencils cut from file folders may not curve to fit the shape of some loaves. Experiment with cardstock or thin plastic for your stencils, and try dusting with both flour and cocoa powder for different effects.
canvases for personal expression. You, too, can do amazing things by using stencils (dusting flour for white and cocoa for dark designs), slashing the dough (either directly into the dough or through a layer of flour dusted over the bread), or with a combination of slashing and stenciling.
Whether you bake in a tin or on a baking stone or baking sheet, a few minutes of attention to the crust will take your bread out of the realm of the everyday, and into a space where cooking and art come together.
If you have children, or are baking bread during the holidays when family and friends are around, decorating the surface of breads can itself become an engaging social activity. Creating stencils is an absorbing pursuit for people of all ages, and cutting patterns
into the floured surface of the proofed bread with a razor is really exciting. If you’re decorating breads with several people, you may want to have a few breads going at once, or you can make rolls to decorate.
For inspiration, look at the images accompanying this article, go to www. motherearthnews.com/breadstencils to download printable stencil templates, or check out my Pinterest boards with images of slashed and stenciled breads and how-to videos (www.motherearthnews.com/rubel).
You can purchase ready-made bread stencils from a number of online retailers, or visit your local craft store to find painting or quilting stencils you can repurpose for decorating breads. I think making your own stencils is a fun project in itself!
Yet More Yeast Breads!
The timeless allure of fresh bread has been part of Mother earth News magazine since 1970, and we’re eager to share our love of bread with you. Find more than 150 tried-and-true recipes for quick breads, country and holiday favorites such as skillet cornbread and Irish soda bread, and more challenging treats such as boiled breads, naan, and bagels, in Bread. Visit our website, www.motherearthnews.com/store to order the cookbook, item #9094; please use promotion code MMEPAJZI.
Tools, Tips, and Techniques
To make your own stencils, you’ll need a sharp utility knife, sturdy paper or plastic, and a surface to cut on. I recommend cutting your stencils out of old file folders or cardstock. You’ll also need a very fine sieve for dusting flour onto the bread through the stencil.
The only real trick to stenciling breads is that after you’ve dusted the stencil with flour you’ll need to lift it straight up and away from the bread so you don’t spill any flour. Adding tabs to your stencil can help with the vertical lift. If you buy plastic stencils, you may find that dusting the undersides with flour will help keep them from sticking to the dough.
Professional bakers use a doubleedged razor, called a lame, to slash their loaves. You can order a lame online, or carefully tape over one edge of a doubleedged razor and hold the taped edge between your fingers when making cuts (see photo on Page 45).
For deep slashes to open up spectacularly, the formed and proofed bread has to be in the perfect state of readiness to go into the oven. The proofed bread should have swelled, but not yet doubled, when you cut your deep slashes. Choosing that moment takes practice; I get it right about half the time.
Don’t shy away from delicate designs! A little care while lifting the stencil will leave sharp outlines on your loaf.
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 44
Basic Recipe for Yeast Bread
While this recipe calls for active dry yeast, you can add instant yeast directly to the flour along with the salt. I prefer bread with the lower salt quantity, though the higher quantity is standard.
This dough is wetter than a sandwich bread. The surface will be sticky. Work the dough with clean hands that you keep wet by continuously dipping them in a bowl of water. Use a dough scraper to keep your work surface clean.
This recipe also calls for a folded kneading technique, similar to many no-knead bread recipes.
If you aren’t yet familiar with this technique, watch Northwest Sourdough’s video of professional bakers demonstrating how to fold
and shape a boule by visiting www. motherearthnews.com/northwest.
Yield: One 1.25-pound loaf.
• 31⁄2 cups unbleached white flour or 15 ounces
• 11⁄3 to 2 teaspoons salt
• 11⁄2 cups warm water
• For a 1 to 1.5 hour rise, 1 1 ⁄ 3 teaspoons active dry yeast
• For an overnight or long day rise, 1 teaspoon active dry yeast
• For an overnight rise, 3 4 teaspoon active dry yeast
Note: After these doughs have started rising at room temperature, they can be refrigerated for up to a week, when they’ll develop the texture and taste tonalities of a mild sourdough. Try to always make more dough than you need to bake so some can be refrigerated.
1 In a bowl, mix flour and salt, and set aside.
2 In a separate bowl, mix the yeast in warm water, then follow the yeast packet instructions.
3 Set a “sponge” (pre-ferment) by making a well in the flour and then adding the yeast mixture. Mix untilit feels smooth.
4 Dust with flour, cover, and set aside in a warm place.
5 When the sponge is clearly active and has risen, and the dusting of flour has cracked, form into a rough mass by hand or with a mixer.
6 Turn out onto a board and knead for a few minutes, until the dough becomes stretchy and elastic. This is a wet dough, so remember to moisten your hands and use your dough scraper.
WILLIAM RUBEL (5)
www.Grit.com 45
Counter-clockwise from top left: 1. Hold the taped edge of the razor to make slashes, keeping your fingers clear of the blade. 2. Dust flour over your dough before slashing for a more striking finished loaf. 3. Be decisive when you slash! Neat cuts look best after baking.
If using a reduced yeast quantity and a long rise, you can reduce the kneading to a thorough mixing; the gluten will develop as the dough rises.
7 Return to a bowl, cover, and let rise to double in bulk.
8 When risen, turn out onto a lightly floured board and gently stretch and fold the dough over itself a few times. Return the dough to a bowl, cover, and repeat 3 to 4 times at 10- to 15-minute intervals.
9 Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit for a soft crust, and up to 425 degrees for a crisper crust.
10 Stretch and fold the dough to form a ball, oval, or ring-shaped loaf.
11 When formed, place the dough on a piece of parchment paper and cover.
12 When the dough has started to increase in size, but before it has doubled, slash or apply stencils and then immediately slide the dough, still on its parchment paper, into the pre-
Ways to Use Leftover Bread
Bread Soup
This delicious country soup is perfect for cold winter nights.
Yield: 6 to 10 servings.
Directions: Toast bread and set aside. Bring greens to a rolling boil in water to cover, and then reduce heat and cover until wilted. To assemble soup, rub a piece of toast with garlic and place in a serving bowl. Lightly dress with olive oil, and add a layer of greens and a sprinkling of Parmesan. Continue until ingredients are used up, finishing with layer of cheese. Pour the hot salted water over the bread. Break up bread with a serving spoon, stir, and serve.
Garlic Bread
2 cloves garlic, peeled
1 4 cup butter
Thick slices of bread
In a mortar or food processor, mix butter and garlic to taste. The quantities above are a good place to start, but you can change this recipe as much as you like! Spread one side of a thick slice of bread with garlic butter, and toast under a broiler.
Ingredients
8 to 12 slices of bread
2 pounds mixed greens, such as chard, kale, broccoli rabe, or chicory, trimmed and coarsely chopped
4 to 6 cloves of garlic, peeled Olive oil
1 3 pound of grated Parmesan
4 cups lightly salted hot water
Turkey Stuffing
Yield: 8 to 12 servings.
2 pounds fresh chestnuts
1 2 cup unsalted butter
3 yellow onions, diced
2 celery sticks, thinly sliced
1 head garlic, cloves separated and crushed
heated oven directly on a baking stone or baking sheet.
13 The bread will be done in approximately 40 to 50 minutes. If dusted with flour, remove before the flour begins to darken.
When you feel ready, start experimenting! For a more traditional variant of this basic recipe, substitute 21⁄2 cups white flour and 3 4 cups rye flour for the unbleached white flour to produce a classic pain de campagne.
2 teaspoons salt
7 cups 1-inch-cubed stale bread
Light chicken stock as needed to wet the bread thoroughly
1 bunch sage, coarsely chopped
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
Roast, peel, and chop chestnuts. In a sauté pan, melt butter, then add onions, celery, garlic, and salt. Cook over medium to low heat, stirring as needed, until onions are limp but not brown, about 15 minutes. Add bread cubes. When butter has been absorbed, add chestnuts, then add chicken stock a little at a time, until bread is no longer dry. Add sage and parsley and cook for a few minutes. Remove from heat and set aside for stuffing turkey or to bake in a casserole pan.
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 46 WILLIAM RUBEL
Pair bread soup with a roast, or serve it as the main course.
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 48
Potato, Oatmeal, White, and Rye With a Starter
By Wendy Akin
Baking bread is something people have practiced for centuries but have partly forgotten in modern life. It’s a skill worth relearning for the pride and joy of putting a lovely loaf on the table, knowing it was our care and skill that made this beautiful bread for family and guests.
When we bake our own bread, we know what’s in our food. In today’s world of unpronounceable ingredients, this is reassuring. We purchase the best flour available and combine it with only the healthful ingredients of our choice. The breads we bake at home have more flavor because we allow the loaves time to develop, so they never have that odd processed aftertaste.
We can also save money by baking our family’s sandwich bread. You can make a very basic sandwich bread loaf with high-quality flour for about 70 cents. Adding organic milk, butter, and eggs will bring the cost up to nearly $1.50. Even so, that’s savings.
Expanding into more fancy artisan breads can yield even more savings. As home bakers, the entire world of breads is available to us—we can duplicate the breads of any culture right in our own oven and all at a modest cost.
A day spent baking bread is a good day. Great satisfaction comes with seeing loaves out of the oven, cooling on the rack. The house smells fabulous. For some, bread baking starts with just a basic loaf for family sandwiches. Success can
lead to passion—for creating the perfect artisan loaf, the perfect pizza, the perfect sticky bun. The more we learn, the more we want to learn.
Getting Started
I figure, if you’re going to get all the ingredients out and make a mess, you might as well bake a lot of bread, especially on a cold day. I certainly don’t want to have to wash the bowl in between! The following recipes include mixer instructions, but as home bakers have mixed bread for centuries, you can certainly mix any of these by hand— which will take longer but will build your arm strength.
Enjoy the process, fill your table, and warm your kitchen with these breads.
DAILY BREADS
Make flavorful sandwich bread out of quality ingredients to save money and warm a gathering or just your kitchen for the day.
LEFT TO RIGHT: FOTALIA/MASTER1305; FOTALIA/IMFOTOGRAF; STOCKFOOD/PHOTOALTO www.Grit.com 49
Above left: Bakers use a bench knife—also called a bench scraper, dough scraper, or pastry scraper—to slice and move dough or scrape a work surface. Above right: A lame (pronounced “lahm”) is used to slash the dough, allowing it to expand during baking. A very sharp knife or razor blade also works.
White Sandwich Bread With a Starter
This basic recipe is for white bread, but feel free to use half bread flour and half white-whole-wheat flour or wholewheat flour.
You can also use all white-wholewheat flour plus 1 ⁄ 4 cup vital wheat gluten, and add it along with the salt and yeast. Yields 2 fat loaves or boules.
6 cups bread flour, divided, plus more in reserve
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons instant yeast
Overnight Starter for 3 Batches of Bread
European breads are frequently made with an overnight starter, called a poolish or biga This way of developing dough—which I learned from Peter Reinhart, of The Bread Baker’s Apprentice—has helped me to quickly put together some delicious, full-flavored sandwich breads. To learn how to stretch and fold the starter, visit www.motherearthnews.com/starter.
Directions: You can use a mixer with a dough hook, or it’s easy enough to stir this up by hand—just approximate the mixer directions. Whichever you choose, begin by putting the flour into a good-sized bowl, tall rather than wide (your mixer bowl will work well). Put the salt on one side of the bowl and the yeast on the other, and then stir together.
Make a little well, then pour the water into the mix. Run the mixer on the stir setting until the flour is taken up. Turn the mixer off and let it rest for a minute or two, then turn the mixer on #4 or the knead setting and run for 2 minutes.
Rest a minute, and then run it on #4 again for a couple of minutes. Repeat. The dough will clear the bowl but will still look shaggy.
Put out a large cutting board (mine is 16 by 20 inches)—or a sheet pan will do. Pour the oil on the board, smear it around with your hands, and leave your hands greased. Then, dump the dough out. Pat the dough into an oval, about 10 by 12 inches.
Ingredients
• 6 cups bread flour
• 11⁄2 tsp fine sea salt
• 11⁄2 tsp instant yeast
• 21⁄2 cups tepid water
• 1 tbsp oil
Now, pick up the back edge of the dough (it will be wet) and pull and stretch it away from you, then fold it back onto the rest of the dough. Pick up the front edge, pull and stretch it and fold it back onto the dough. Turn the dough over so the stretched and folded surface is now on the bottom. Repeat the pull-and-stretch, and turn the dough over. Walk away for a few minutes. Because the dough is oiled, you don’t need to cover it now. Go back and repeat the pull-and-stretch on both sides, and again let it rest for a few minutes. Repeat one more time. If you pull and stretch a small area, you’ll see the “window”—a bit of dough that will stretch so thin you’ll be able to read through it. This indicates that the dough is nicely developed.
Put the dough into a greased bowl large enough to allow it to fully double. Cover the bowl and put it in the refrigerator overnight to rest and develop flavor. The dough will rise to nearly double, then deflate a bit. (It can rest for as long as two nights if you’re not ready to bake.)
Now, you’ll be ready to make the sandwich bread or rye bread recipes that follow.
What to do with leftover starter: If you don’t want to make three whole batches of bread, you can make really nice ciabatta-style hamburger buns. I just pat out the starter on a lightly floured board and cut it with a bench knife into pieces just a little smaller than a burger. The dough will spread a little as it rises. Square is fine! Is there a rule that says burgers must be round?
16 ounces pre-fermented starter, about 1⁄3 of a batch (see recipe, left)
2 cups hot water
1 tablespoon honey (optional)
1 tablespoon oil (optional)
1 Set up a mixer with a dough hook.
2 Put 4 cups of the flour and the rest of the dry ingredients into the bowl—salt and yeast on opposite sides. (Otherwise the salt will delay the yeast.) Give it a stir.
3 With your bench knife (see photo, Page 49) or your hands, cut the starter into about 10 pieces, dropping them into the dry ingredients. Add the hot water and honey, if using, and turn on the mixer to #1 or the stir setting.
4 Run the mixer until the flour is nearly taken up, and then turn up the speed to #4 or the knead setting. Run on #4 for at least 5 minutes—the hunks of starter will be well-incorporated into the dough.
5 Add most of the remaining flour, holding back a little. Again, run mixer on the stir setting until the flour is taken up and then turn to #4, or knead, for a good 5 to 10 minutes, until the dough has come together well.
6 Drizzle a bit of the oil down the side of the bowl to help the dough clear the bowl, if needed.
7 When it all comes together, transfer the dough into a rising bucket or bowl. Allow it to rise until nicely doubled and puffy. This could take from a 1⁄ 2 hour to an hour or longer, depending on the room temperature.
8 Turn the dough out onto a floured kneading board. Knead several turns,
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 50
adding a little bit of reserved flour if needed, until the dough is smooth, satiny, and doesn’t stick.
9 With your bench knife, cut the dough in half, as evenly as you can. Pat each half into an oval, about 8 by 10 inches, and then, stretching it a bit, roll it up into a nice, fat loaf. For a rustic appearance, pick up a little flour from the board and sprinkle a bit on the top.
10 Put each loaf into a greased or wellseasoned loaf pan to rise.
11 Cover the loaves with greased plastic wrap or a proof cover and allow them to rise until fully doubled. While the loaves rise, check them a time or two. If you see a big bubble on the top, pinch it carefully so you won’t have a burned blister on the top of your bread.
12 Just before the rise is complete, make a slash or two with a lame (see photo, Page 49) or a very sharp knife or razor blade.
13 Heat the oven to 350 F. Bake your loaves for about 50 minutes, until they’re a nice dark-gold color, and a thermometer inserted through the side reads 190 degrees. Turn out the loaves immediately onto a wire rack. Never cut a loaf until it’s completely cool.
14 Wrap the loaves well to freeze them. I put each loaf or half loaf into a cheap plastic bag and then place two loaves into a 2-gallon zip-close bag.
Try rustic boules and pizza crust: This dough also makes great sandwich rolls, boules, rustic loaves for the dinner table, and my favorite: pizza crusts.
I love to form several different types of pizza crusts to stock up. A chunk of dough about the size of a baseball makes a 10-inch pizza; use a hunk the size of a softball if you’d like a 12-inch pie.
To make pizza crust: Pat, roll, and stretch the crust to the size you’d prefer. Then, you can place each crust on a
piece of parchment on a baking sheet to be ready for baking.
Allow the crusts to rise until puffy. If the crust tries to hump up in the center, give it a stab with a knife.
You can freeze crusts by partially baking them about 10 minutes at 450 F, cooling them, and then placing them in zip-close bags separated by sheets of parchment.
Rye Bread With a Starter
Rye bread is a challenge for many bakers. There are so many “hockey puck” disasters. This recipe works! You’ll make a loaf with a moist, open crumb and a chewy crust, just like the best deli loaves.
You can form your dough into two fat loaves in loaf pans, a huge artisan boule, or two smaller boules—or even use some for crusty, chewy rolls, which are fabulous for thick sandwiches. Even if you don’t like the whole caraway seeds in your bread, be sure to put in the ground seeds. Yields 2 standard loaves or a huge boule.
3 cups rye flour, preferably whole rye
3 cups bread flour, divided, plus more in reserve
1⁄4 cup vital wheat gluten
4 tablespoons caraway seeds, divided Pinch of citric acid
1 tablespoon fine sea salt
Using a starter will help you make a rye bread that’s moist and has a chewy crust.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: ISTOCK/OLAFSPEIER;
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Make a loaf of white bread, form the dough into boules or pizza crust, or try a whole-wheat version.
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Oatmeal Bread
This is the absolute best bread for a PB&J sandwich! You can substitute 1 cup whole wheat for 1 cup white bread flour to achieve a deeper flavor. As for the oats, you can use “quickcooking” oats (never “instant”) if that’s what you have, but rolled or “old-fashioned” oats lend a chewier, heartier texture.
Directions: Set up a mixer with a dough hook.
Put 4 cups of the flour in the mixer bowl, with the salt on one side of the bowl and the yeast on the other, and give it a quick stir.
If you can get scalding-hot water from the tap, use that. If not, heat the water to not more than 115 F. In a measuring glass, stir together the water and milk. (The ideal temperature will be between 90 and 105 F, but it’s fine to approximate.) Spoon in the honey or sorghum and stir to mix.
Add the liquid to the flour and give it a quick stir to start incorporating. Run the mixer on the stir setting until the flour is mixed in, and then knead on #4 for 5 minutes. You should see the beginning of gluten strands in a smooth batter.
Ingredients
• 6 cups bread flour, divided, plus more in reserve
• 1 tbsp fine sea salt
• 2 tbsp instant yeast
• 11⁄4 cups very hot water
• 1 cup whole milk
• 3 tbsp honey or sorghum
• 2 cups rolled oats
• 1 tbsp oil (optional)
2 tablespoons instant yeast
16 ounces pre-fermented starter, about
1⁄3 batch (see recipe, Page 50)
21⁄4 cups hot water, 105 F
2 tablespoons molasses or sorghum syrup
1 tablespoon oil (optional)
Cornmeal (optional)
1 Set up a mixer with a dough hook. You’ll probably want the mixer for this dough—rye dough takes a lot of muscle. Put the rye flour, 1 cup bread flour, and the vital wheat gluten in the mixer bowl.
2 Grind 2 tablespoons caraway seeds and the citric acid in a spice grinder. Add this mix and the salt to one side of the bowl, and add the yeast on the other. Then, add the other 2 tablespoons of whole caraway seeds. Stir only to mix the dry ingredients.
3 With your bench knife, cut the starter into about 10 pieces, and drop them all into the flour mix.
• 1 tbsp melted butter
Add the oats and most of the remaining 2 cups flour— but hold back just a little—and run on the stir setting until the flour settles in. Then knead on #4 for 5 to 10 minutes until the dough comes together and clears the sides of the bowl. You want a soft but firm dough. If it seems too soft, add flour bit by bit.
If the dough seems to need “help” coming together, run a bit of oil or melted butter down the side of the bowl.
After it all comes together, transfer the dough into a rising bucket or bowl. Allow it to rise until nicely doubled and puffy. This could take 1⁄2 hour to an hour or longer, depending on the room temperature.
Turn the dough out onto a floured kneading board. Knead several turns, adding a bit of flour if needed, until the dough is smooth, satiny, and doesn’t stick. With your bench knife, cut the dough in half, as evenly as you can. Pat each half out into an oval, about 8 by 10 inches, and then tightly, stretching it a bit, roll it up into a nice, fat loaf.
Sprinkle just a bit of oats into the bottoms of your loaf pans and set in your loaves.
Brush the tops of the loaves with a bit of melted butter and, if you’d like, pat on a small amount of oats. Cover the loaves with greased plastic or a proofing cover and allow the loaves to rise until doubled and puffy, prettily rounded over the tops of the pans.
While the loaves rise, check them a time or two. If you see a big bubble on the top, pinch it carefully so you won’t have a burned blister on the top of your bread.
Heat the oven to 350 F. Bake your loaves for about 50 minutes, until they’re a nice darkgold color, and a thermometer inserted through the side reads 190 degrees. Turn out the loaves immediately onto a wire rack. Never cut a loaf until it’s completely cool.
Enjoy and wrap the loaves well to freeze.
4 Measure out the hot water. Spoon the molasses or sorghum into the water and stir. Make a well in the flour mix and pour in the wet ingredients. Turn on the mixer to #1 or the stir setting to begin incorporating the flour. When it’s mixed in, let it all rest for a few minutes to give the rye flour a chance to absorb the liquid.
5 Turn the mixer on #4 or the knead setting and run for at least 5 minutes. Add 1 1⁄ 2 cups bread flour. Run on the stir setting until the flour is mixed in, and then again on #4 for 5 minutes. Rye dough should be soft but firm, but it stays rather sticky. Add only enough of the remaining bread flour for the dough to come together; don’t let the stickiness tempt you to overdo it. If needed, drizzle a little of the oil down the inside of the bowl to help your dough clear the bowl.
6 Transfer the dough to a rising bucket or bowl and allow it to double. Rising may take longer than other breads. Be patient.
7 When the dough has fully risen, turn your dough onto a floured kneading board. Give it several turns, again resisting adding much flour. When the dough feels nice and smooth and elastic, form your loaves.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 52
8 Decide which loaves you want and divide accordingly. Form a big boule with about 2⁄ 3 of the dough, and try a few smaller sandwich rolls with the remaining dough. Form two standard sandwich loaves, as in the White Sandwich Bread recipe on Page 50, for more uniform sandwiches.
9 For the boule, pat the dough into an oval, then roll it up tightly. Try not to totally deflate the dough; remember to be gentle. Coax the dough into a rounder
shape, pulling the edges to the bottom to create surface tension.
10 Put the boule on a greased baking sheet that is dusted with a small amount of cornmeal.
11 If you’re making regular loaves, you can first sprinkle a little cornmeal on a baking sheet and drag the loaves through it to lightly coat the bottom. Place the loaves into greased or well-seasoned loaf pans.
12 For a crackly crust, lightly beat an egg white with 1 teaspoon water and
Basic White Potato Bread
My grandmother taught me that when making mashed potatoes, you should cook one potato per person and one more “for the pot”—but I usually add more. Sometimes when I see potatoes starting to sprout in the bin, I’ll go ahead and cook those up and mash them. Waste not, want not; potatoes make good bread.
Any leftovers go into baggies, approximately 1 cup into each, and I tuck these into zip-close bags. The night before I plan to bake, I get out as many baggies of mashed potatoes as the number of batches of bread I intend to bake. By morning, they’ll be at room temperature. Yields 2 loaves in standard 9-by-5-inch pans.
Directions: Set up a mixer with a dough hook. Put 4 cups of the flour, salt, and yeast into the bowl. Always put the salt on one side and the yeast on the other. Give it a quick stir.
Add the hot water, potatoes, and honey, if using, and stir the mixture with a spatula to begin incorporating the flour. Turn on your mixer to the stir setting or #1 for a minute, and then turn it up to #4 or the knead setting. Machine-knead the dough for 10 to 15 minutes. You’ll see some strands, indicating the formation of gluten.
Stop the mixer and add the remaining 2 cups flour. Again run the mixer on the stir setting as the flour mixes in, and then run on #4 or the knead setting for a couple of minutes. The dough should be coming together. You want a firm but moist dough. Depending on the humidity, you may need to add more flour, a tablespoon at a time.
If it seems the dough needs a little help clearing the side of the bowl, drizzle just a tablespoon or so of oil down the inside of the bowl. The dough will then quickly clear the sides of the bowl, and conveniently, you’ll also have a greased bowl so the dough dumps out easily.
After it all comes together, transfer the dough into a rising bucket or bowl. Allow the dough to rise until it’s nicely doubled and puffy. This could take from 1⁄2 hour to an hour, or even longer, depending on the room temperature.
Turn the dough out onto a floured kneading board. Knead several turns, adding a bit of flour if needed, until the dough is smooth, satiny, and doesn’t stick.
With a bench knife, cut the dough in half, as evenly as you can. Pat each half out into an oval, about 8 by 10 inches, and then tightly, stretching it a bit, roll it up into a nice, fat loaf.
Pick up a little flour from the board and sprinkle it on top, if you wish, for a rustic appearance. Put each loaf into a greased or well-
brush the crust before baking. Sprinkle on a few more caraway seeds if desired.
13 Cover your bread with a proof cover or greased plastic wrap. Allow it plenty of time to rise to almost doubled.
14 Bake at 350 F for about 50 minutes until a thermometer inserted through the side registers 190 F.
15 Remove the bread from the pan or baking sheet and place on a wire rack until it’s completely cooled before wrapping or cutting.
seasoned loaf pan. Cover the loaves with greased plastic wrap or a proof cover and allow them to rise until doubled.
While the loaves rise, check them a time or two. If you see a big bubble on top, pinch it carefully so you won’t have a burned blister on the top of your bread.
Just before the rise is complete, make a slash or two with a lame or very sharp knife or razor blade.
Ingredients
• 6 cups bread flour, divided, plus more in reserve
• 1 tbsp fine sea salt
• 2 tbsp instant yeast
• 2 cups very hot water
• 1 cup mashed potato
• 1 tbsp honey (optional)
• 1 tbsp oil (optional)
Heat the oven to 350 F. Bake your loaves for about 50 minutes, until they’re a nice dark-gold color, and a thermometer inserted through the side reads 190 degrees.
Turn out the loaves immediately onto a wire rack. Never cut a loaf until it’s completely cool.
Wrap the loaves well to freeze. I put each loaf or half loaf into a cheap plastic bag, and then group two loaves into a 2-gallon zip-close bag. You can reuse zip-close bags several times.
For white-whole-wheat bread: Following the recipe above, substitute 6 cups white-whole-wheat flour for the bread flour, and add 1⁄4 cup vital wheat gluten to the ingredients list. Add in the vital wheat gluten along with the salt and yeast, then proceed with the recipe directions.
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SOURDOUGH Simplified
By Victoria Redhed Miller
I’veoften wondered how it is that bread, which is so basic to most of the world’s food cultures, has turned into something that we are intimidated to make ourselves. Homemade bread is often much more nutritious, and certainly less expensive, than “artisan” breads available commercially. As farmers, homesteaders, or sustainabilityminded city dwellers, we not only want
Make delicious homemade bread with these easy-to-follow instructions.
to learn to do more for ourselves, we want to be more economical in our use of resources. In other words, we don’t want to waste time, money, or effort.
If you’ve been to one of my presentations at the M E N Fair recently (www.motherearthnewsfair. com), you’ve heard the story of how I used to get up at 2 a.m. to shape and
proof bread dough. Being naturally thick-headed, it took me more than a few rounds of this to figure out that I was, frankly, out of my mind. For goodness’ sake, I’m not a professional baker! Plus, I never slept well after those nocturnal trips to the kitchen. Interrupting a night’s sleep like that, all for the sake of one loaf of bread, simply didn’t make
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 54
sense. So when this finally occurred to me, I set about learning how to control my bread-making routine, rather than having the process control me and my sleep schedule.
Slow Down
Why do people shy away from making their own bread? The main reasons I hear are that it seems mysterious, complicated, and inaccessible (especially sourdough), or they really just don’t have time for bread-making. I get it, life gets so busy you can barely keep up, but I’m going to change your mind about it.
■ Bread is very simple: flour, salt, yeast, and water. Bread made with commercial yeast ferments fairly rapidly; the entire process takes around four hours or so, from mixing to taking it out of the oven. This speeding up of the process— originally designed to benefit commercial bakers—actually makes yeast bread more challenging to find time to make. Between mixing and baking, several processes happen, and transitions happen quickly, so over those four hours of baking your dough, your attention is required almost constantly.
In the case of sourdough, a sour culture (starter) populated with wild yeast takes the place of commercial yeast. Wild yeast multiplies more slowly than commercial yeast, so the whole process slows down as a result. Slowing down the fermentation not only results in better-tasting, longer-lasting bread, it also allows for much more flexibility in your schedule.
These days, my normal weekly baking routine covers about 24 hours. Here’s how it works:
■ DAY ONE, MORNING : Refresh sourdough culture (3 minutes). Ferment at cool temperature for 8 to 12 hours.
■ DAY ONE, EVENING: Mix and knead dough (20 to 35 minutes total, depending on kneading technique). Ferment dough at cool temperature overnight (8 to 12 hours).
■ DAY TWO, MORNING: Preheat oven and baking stone, then shape dough
(5 minutes). Proof dough for 1 hour as baking stone preheats. Bake bread (45 to 50 minutes).
That’s it! Total hands-on time is around 30 minutes. And as you can see, most of the 24 hours is the sourdough culture and dough fermenting. By utilizing slower-fermenting wild yeast, combined with cooler fermentation temperatures, your bread dough will develop wonderful flavor and texture as the yeast and lactobacilli do their magic. And, by slowing down the process, it won’t be a catastrophe if something comes up and you have to be away from your kitchen for a little while. With this
recipe, they’ll be no more blocking out four hours of time or worrying about your dough over-rising. You can even sleep nights!
Starting Your Starter
A lot has been written about sourdough starter: what kind of flour to use, how often it needs to be fed or refreshed, whether you should add yeast, sugar, etc. Some starter recipes I’ve seen were eye-glazingly complicated, requiring multiple feedings every day as if it were some kind of exotic pet.
Let me simplify it for you. To make a starter you need two ingredients: flour and water. Yes, you can make starters
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TOP: Use different kneading techniques to find one that suits you best. ABOVE LEFT: Check for bubbling or dimpling on the surface of your starter to indicate that it’s active. A new starter will become active more quickly at room temperature. ABOVE RIGHT: A quality food scale will help make measuring ingredients easier. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: RACHEL ABERNATHY; ADOBE STOCK/ALENA YAKUSHEVA; RACHEL ABERNATHY; PAGE 54: ERIKA MITCHELL
from non-grain sources like potatoes, but we’re keeping it simple here. The wild yeast and bacteria are in the air, and they’re on the grain.
To make a starter from scratch, I recommend using organic flour. Once it’s active and bubbly, it’s not so critical, but you go to some effort to get the thing going, so give it its best chance to start out right.
It’s also best to avoid chlorinated water. Any kind of bottled water is fine, including distilled water.
We’re fortunate to have our own springfed water supply, which is the water I use for making bread.
I recommend measuring ingredients by weight rather than volume, because it
results in more accurate measurements. Escali makes a small, lightweight scale that measures in 1-gram increments.
It costs about $30 from King Arthur Flour (www.kingarthurflour.com) and is my favorite kitchen scale.
Day One
In a large bowl (glass or stainless steel), pour 75 grams (scant 1⁄3 cup) tepid water.
Stir in 50 grams (1⁄3 to 1⁄2 cup) organic unbleached bread flour or all-purpose flour, and 50 grams (1 3 to 1⁄2 cup) organic stone-ground whole-wheat flour. Dough will be tacky.
Then, you can cover with plastic wrap and it let stand at room temperature for 24 hours.
Day Two
The culture will look much the same as it did on Day One, although it may have risen slightly.
Add 30 grams (2 tablespoons) tepid water, 50 grams ( 1⁄ 3 to 1⁄ 2 cup) organic unbleached bread flour or all-purpose flour, and 5 grams (1 tablespoon) organic rye flour.
Cover and let stand at room temperature for 24 hours.
Day Three
The culture will have expanded 11⁄2 to 2 times its original volume. You should be able to see bubbles forming below the surface, and the smell will be slightly yeasty and fruity.
Repeat feeding steps of Day Two.
Day Four and On
The culture may be ready to use any time in the next few days. Here’s what to watch for:
(1) Surface of culture looks dimpled or bubbly and may rise to a dome.
(2) Cutting through with a paring knife shows air pockets being trapped by gluten strands.
If it doesn’t already look like this, simply repeat day three steps daily until it does.
Transfer starter to 1-quart container (wide-mouth Mason jar works fine) and secure lid.
Store starter in refrigerator and refresh once a week by following day two steps. I put about 1 3 cup of the starter in a separate container to use for baking. Then add flour and water to the original container, let it sit at room temperature for an hour, then put it back in the fridge.
The stiffer the starter, the slower it ferments. Slowing down the fermentation process means you can refresh it less often. I aim for roughly twice as much flour as water, by weight. For example, when I refresh my starter, I use about 50 grams (scant 1⁄4 cup) water and 100 grams ( 2 ⁄ 3 to 1 cup) flour. If it seems too dry, add a little water; if too wet, add a little flour. You’ll get the hang of it.
A new starter culture becomes active much more quickly at room temperature.
TOP: Bannetons—also known as “brotforms” or “proofing baskets”—are used to hold dough during proofing, which allows the dough to rise without losing its shape.
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 56
ABOVE: A pizza peel or rimless cookie sheet works well for transferring dough to a preheated baking stone.
Simple Sourdough
350 grams (11⁄2 to 13⁄4 cups) tepid water, unchlorinated
500 grams flour (about 4 cups, depending on type of flour) (I recommend at least 20 percent unbleached bread flour)
150 to 200 grams (scant 3⁄4 cup to scant 1 cup) starter or pre-ferment
10 grams (scant 2 teaspoons) sea salt
1. Refresh starter or make pre-ferment
8 to 12 hours ahead.
2. In large bowl, mix together water and flour. Let stand for at least 20 minutes. This hydrates the grain and starts the process of gluten formation, making hand-kneading easier.
3. Add starter or pre-ferment and salt. No need to mix it all in, kneading will take care of that.
4. Knead dough. I leave the dough in the mixing bowl, turn the bowl with my left hand, while kneading with my right. I dip
Once it is bubbly and has increased in volume (indicating it is active), store it in the fridge. At room temperature the acidity will build up much more quickly, increasing the possibility of endangering the yeast in there, as well as forcing you to refresh it more often. Simplify, remember? I want you to have fun making bread; 2 a.m. feedings for your starter is not fun. Or so I’ve heard.
Making Bread
Making sourdough bread is very similar to making yeast bread. You use starter instead of yeast, and the dough is fermented slowly instead of quickly. Otherwise, the steps are the same.
I prefer an organic unbleached bread flour of about 11.5 percent protein. For whole-wheat flour, I recommend stoneground. I routinely make a French-style sourdough bread with 70 percent white flour, 24 percent whole-wheat, and 6 percent rye. Another favorite in our house is 80 percent whole-wheat, 20 percent white. It’s quite fun to experiment with different combinations; just be prepared for varying textures and degrees of lightness in your bread, particularly if you are using mostly whole-grain flours.
My standard master recipe for bread
my kneading hand in cool water whenever the dough starts sticking to my hand. I knead for a total of 15 minutes, like so: knead 5 minutes, let dough rest for 10 minutes. Knead 5, rest 10, knead 5, and you’re done.
5. Cover bowl with plastic wrap, or put dough in a straight-sided, clear 2-quart container with a lid. I love the 2-quart dough-rising bucket from King Arthur Flour; this batch of dough pretty much fills the container when it doubles, making it so easy to know when the dough is fermented and ready to shape.
6. Ferment dough 8 to 12 hours in a cool spot. Keep an eye on it until you get used to how the dough behaves in your conditions. For best flavor (and easiest schedule), it should take at least 8 hours to fill the container, or double in volume. If it is rising much faster than that, put it in the fridge for a while to slow it down.
(above) is a formula I use for just about any kind of bread I make. It makes a good big loaf of bread. I have used it for many different breads with excellent results.
Tips for Better Bread
I tend to keep a small bowl of water next to my mixing bowl to dip my hand in while kneading. This results in a wetter dough, which takes some getting used to, but also produces in a beautiful crust, lovely open texture to the crumb, and a more moist bread with excellent shelf life.
If kneading by hand, try wearing disposable nitrile gloves. I find the dough sticks less to the gloves than it does to my hands.
Try mixing and matching techniques to fit your comfort zone. For example, the no-knead technique works beautifully with sourdough bread. Make sure you follow all the directions, increasing the dough mixing time by a minute or two. You can ignore the rest of the kneading instructions if need be.
Adding a little rye flour will speed up fermentation of doughs and starters.
You can easily freeze your starter. If you’re going away for a while, or for whatever reason you don’t plan to make
7. Preheat oven to 475 F. Preheat baking stone, and shape and proof the loaf. A thick baking stone like mine takes a solid hour to get good and hot, so I turn the oven on, then I shape the loaf. I like to use inexpensive willow baskets (bannetons) for proofing. In my cool kitchen, the hour that the oven is heating is the perfect amount of time to proof that loaf.
NOTE: The dough will not double in volume again. It won’t rise a lot during proofing, but you should see a little movement.
8. Turn loaf onto pizza peel or rimless cookie sheet for transferring to the baking stone. I prefer to use a sheet of parchment paper on the peel to transfer the dough to the oven. Slash loaf about 1⁄4 inch deep, and immediately slide it, still on the parchment paper, onto the hot baking stone. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool for about an hour before cutting.
bread for several weeks or more, make sure it’s tightly covered and put it in the freezer. The yeast simply goes dormant. When you’re ready to bake again, take it out and let it thaw for 24 hours or so at room temperature. Once it’s thawed, add a little flour and water to it (it will be hungry after its long nap), let it ferment all day or all night, then you’re good to go.
Give it a Go
There’s more to sourdough bread than the flavor. Being a fermented food, it is a good source of the probiotics we hear so much about these days. In addition, sourdough bread is lower on the glycemic index than yeast bread, and has a longer shelf life.
If you’ve ever wanted to make bread but hesitated to take the plunge, sourdough is a great place to start. My goal, however, is simply to encourage you to make bread. If sourdough isn’t in your comfort zone, start with a yeast bread or try using a pre-ferment instead of yeast. But I hope as you gain some experience and confidence as a baker, you’ll try sourdough. It’s healthy, delicious, and adaptable to your schedule.
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VICTORIA REDHED MILLER; GETTY IMAGES/WAITINGTOFLY
Low-Wheat and Low-Gluten Baking
I am frequently asked if it’s true that sourdough starter somehow inactivates the gluten in wheat flour. A number of studies suggest this is true.
In controlled lab conditions, bread dough inoculated with certain strains of lactobacillus and then fermented for many hours has been shown to indicate much lower levels of gluten than before fermentation. These studies all conclude that more research is needed, however.
I also wonder, if the gluten is essentially neutralized, how does that bread dough then rise during fermentation and baking?
If you have celiac disease, you must avoid all gluten. However, in recent years, gluten has become the scapegoat for a laundry list of ailments, spawning a multibillion dollar industry of gluten-free products. The companies making these products, for the most part, have made little effort to educate the public about gluten. Many people don’t even know what gluten is. I’ve heard of bottled water and even
Italian Biga
If the starter in this article is out of your comfort zone, try using a pre-ferment. This is a lot like a sourdough starter, with two important distinctions: It’s made with commercial yeast, and is usually made within hours of when you are going to mix up your bread dough.
For most breads that I make, the pre-ferment would be mixed 9 to 16 hours before I am going to mix my dough. It is amazing how much flavor this adds to even plain white bread. Many of the white breads of Italy are made with a pre-ferment called biga. In France, the pre-ferment is called poolish. Other common names for pre-ferment are “sponge” or “barm.”
0.75 grams (scant 1⁄4 teaspoon) instant yeast
60 grams (1⁄4 cup) warm water
200 grams (3⁄4 cup plus 4 teaspoons) water, room temperature
330 grams (21⁄2 cups) unbleached bread flour or all-purpose flour
watermelons being labeled gluten-free. Gluten exists in three grains: wheat, rye, and barley. Of these, wheat has significantly larger amounts of gluten than either rye or barley.
Many people who display symptoms similar to gluten intolerance may actually be wheat intolerant. Fructose is a carbohydrate found in wheat that is absorbed in the small intestine. However, the small intestine can only absorb a limited amount of fructose at one time. When consumed in typical American-sized portions, things like wheat bread and pasta can cause bloating, gas, and diarrhea in sensitive individuals. That’s because once the small intestine has reached the limit of its fructose-absorbing capacity, the excess travels to the large intestine, which isn’t designed to digest it.
If consuming wheat causes you discomfort or irritation, why not try lowering your wheat intake, rather than give it up altogether? One strategy would be to simply reduce the portion
size in order to limit the amount of wheat in the body at any one time. I am testing bread recipes that have greatly reduced amounts of wheat. These breads are made largely of gluten-free grains, with just enough wheat flour to enable them to rise and have a pleasing texture. For example, I have successfully made bread using gluten-free grains but with added wheat-based sourdough starter. With the right proportion of this starter, the bread rises beautifully and has a soft, chewy texture, and much less gluten than wheat bread.
If you feel better when you aren’t eating wheat or gluten, don’t eat them. This is a quality of life question, and I want you to enjoy your food and not risk discomfort unnecessarily. But if you are not sure if you’re intolerant of wheat or gluten, consider lowering your wheat intake. You might discover that you can enjoy wheat products again, if you listen to your gut and learn to work with it.
In medium bowl, stir yeast into warm water to dissolve. Add remaining water and flour, stirring for 2 to 3 minutes.
Cover and let rise 6 to 24 hours in a cool spot. Use right away or store in refrigerator up to five days.
Experiment with different flour mixtures to find a combination you like. Keep in mind the texture and degree of lightness will change depending on what types of flour you choose. Also take into account baking time and temperature variations, as some flours may cook at different rates.
VICTORIA REDHED MILLER GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 58
Create
Is there any food that evokes pleasant memories and warm feelings more than bread? It’s the most basic of foods, yet many of us are intimidated by the prospect of making our own. “Artisan” bread, craft bakeries, and wood- red pizza are gaining popularity; imagine creating these fabulous breads at home.
In From No-Knead to Sourdough, author Victoria Redhed Miller blends her own journey toward self-reliance with her fascination for traditional homesteading skills and love of good food. From making simple yeast breads, to learning how to bake a wide variety of sourdough-based breads, Miller’s curiosity and fearlessness come together to share with readers a simpler approach to the pleasures of baking bread.
$29.99 delicious, healthy breads in your own kitchen No experience required! Order today by calling 866-803-7096 or visiting www.Grit.com/Store Promo code: MMEPAJZ3 | Item #8879
CAST IRON COUNTRY KITCHEN for the
By Callene Rapp
Allacross the country, cooks are rekindling a love aff air with cast-iron cookware. Sales of newly manufactured cast iron have risen steadily over the last decade, and where once you could fi nd a box of cast-iron cookware at a garage sale or fl ea market for a quarter, those fi nds are harder and harder to come by as collectors snap them up. Some collectors will pay hundreds of dollars for a specifi c vintage piece.
Several new manufacturers have started up in recent years, and cast iron seems to be the new chic cookware.
What’s all the buzz about? Is cast iron really all that, and is vintage really better than new? And, if you are on the verge of delving into cast-iron cooking, what are some of the basic pieces you need to start your collection?
Back in the Day
Casting iron is one of man’s oldest skills. As far back as the fifth century B.C., metalsmiths in China were making cast-iron pots, as well as plowshares and other utilitarian items. The skill took some time to travel west, but eventually it reached England, where the craft was used to make cannons and ammunition for them. One of the most common uses of cast iron was the cannonball. Fortunately, people have since decided to cook with it instead.
Cast iron is made by heating pig iron—a derivative of iron ore—to over 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit and pouring the molten metal into molds made of sand. After it cools and hardens, the sand mold is knocked away, and a brand new pot or pan emerges. A little polishing, especially in the case of a new pan, and voilà!
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 60
Make your kitchen cookware count with the most useful pieces of cast iron.
Cast iron came into its own as cookware in the mid-19th century. Every hearth prior to that had a cast-iron cook pot, and most meals were cooked over the hearth fire. But with more modern foundries and techniques, manufacturers began to offer a broader range of items for the home cook. Cast iron was affordable, and nearly everyone could afford to have some type of cast-iron cookware. With the advent of the modern cookstove, a whole range of cast-iron products evolved to cook on it.
The 19th century gave rise to several prominent American manufacturers of cast-iron cookware. The Griswold Company was founded in 1865, originally making hinges and stove parts, and was known around the world for producing high-quality cookware that is still prized by collectors today. Certain pieces can fetch several hundred dollars from the avid collector, and Griswold cookware is highly sought after by cast-iron aficionados, who even today appreciate its quality. The creation of modern hi-tech cookware reduced the popularity of cast iron, and Wagner Manufacturing acquired Griswold in 1957. Founded in 1881, Wagner has a similar history and timeline to Griswold, and both companies ultimately became owned by the American Culinary Corp.
Lodge Cast Iron was founded in 1896, and still operates the same foundry in South Pittsburg, Tennessee. The company is still owned by members of the founding family. In 2002, Lodge developed their line of pre-seasoned cast-iron cookware, and pre-seasoned has since become the industry standard. Lodge has an almost dizzying array of products available in their catalog, which for a castiron lover is pretty much the ultimate wishbook.
Regardless of the era or manufacturer, cast-iron cookware was built to last. Some 50- to 75-year-old pieces are still serviceable today.
Cast-Iron Renaissance
In the 1950s, cast iron experienced a dip in popularity. Modern manufacturing techniques gave rise to products like Teflon, which elevated nonstick to a whole new level. Teflon’s nonstick properties immediately appealed to cooks, because cleanup took less time than seasoning a cast-iron skillet after each use.
Unfortunately, Teflon is also easy to chip and scratch, and ultimately the nonstick surface would lose its nonstick quality. Studies have shown that fumes from an overheated Teflon skillet may pose a health hazard to humans.
With Teflon on the outs, cooks of all skill levels have recently begun turning back to the tried and
true cast iron. So, if you are ready to join the castiron family, what should you look for first?
Skillets. The first must-have piece of cast iron should be a standard skillet. A good 10-inch skillet is the true workhorse of any cast-iron collection. It can be used for frying, browning meat, simmering, roasting, sautéing, and stir-frying. It can go on the stovetop or in the oven. You can use a skillet to make the best pan pizza crust ever, and some purists insist that the only way to make cornbread or pineappleupside-down cake is in a cast-iron skillet.
Because it is a single molded piece of metal, a cast-iron skillet can go from browning on the stovetop right into the oven. Try that with a plastichandled skillet, and you will be sorely disappointed with the results.
TOP TO BOTTOM: SUSY MORRIS; COURTESY LODGE; PAGE 62: ISTOCK/SAWAYASU TSUJI
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Quick Tips for Cooking With Cast Iron
Get it hot. Contrary to popular myth, cast iron doesn’t heat more evenly, but it retains heat brilliantly. You can get it screaming hot to get a wonderful sear on steaks and other meats. Let it get good and hot before putting anything in it. Saturated fats are better for seasoning cast iron. Lard, bacon grease, and such will contribute to attaining that wonderful nonstick patina. While a new piece may not have that whisper-smooth finish that a vintage piece does, with time and lots of use, it will be nearly as nonstick as anything modern.
Just be sure to use a good hot pad when handling cast iron, whether in the oven or on the stovetop.
Cast-iron skillets come in a variety of sizes, ranging from 6 inches wide and 11⁄2 inches deep to 15 inches wide and 21⁄2 inches deep. Lodge also makes a beast of a 17-inch skillet, and instead of a single handle, it has two “helper handles” on either side. The average home cook won’t need such a pan, though, unless you are feeding an entire football team. The larger the pan, the larger the burner needs to be to accommodate it.
A 10- or 12-inch skillet will do nicely for a family dinner or baking cakes, breads, and pan pizza. The smaller pans work well for side dishes, omelets, and smaller one- to two-person meals.
Dutch ovens. The Dutch oven is another workhorse, and like the skillet, it can be used in the oven or on the stovetop. A Dutch oven is a high-
sided cooking pot with a tight-fitting lid. The lid is domed, which helps circulate heat and moisture. Because it has deeper sides than a skillet, it works well as a slow cooker. A Dutch oven can braise, roast, bake, and be used for soups and stews. Just about anything that’s cooked in a casserole dish can be cooked in a Dutch oven.
The domed lid makes it useful for making soups and stews on the stovetop, and it’s unparalleled for baking rustic bread. If you can think it up, the Dutch oven can handle it, even deep-frying.
A Dutch oven can handle outdoor cooking over an open fire, but for cooking over coals, most prefer the Dutch oven’s cousin, the camp or cowboy Dutch oven. The shape is similar, and both have a handle for suspending over a fire, but the cowboy oven will have a flat lid with lipped sides and usually three short legs on the bottom. (The lid can also be flipped and used as a griddle.) The legs keep the bottom of the pot from resting directly on the coals, and coals can be placed on the flat lid. This allows for even heating, and food inside won’t overcook on the bottom while the top is still baking. With the legs on the bottom, it would be difficult to use on the stove, although, in a pinch it could work in the oven.
Griddles. Another piece that deserves a place in the kitchen is a griddle pan. While you can make a grilled cheese sandwich or pancakes in your skillet, these pans make grilling easy, as the low sides allow food to be turned with ease. Lodge makes a couple different sizes and shapes of griddle pans, and they are often easy to find at flea markets and garage sales. Ribbed grill pans are also available, but these are not quite as versatile, as the ribs make the pan suitable for grilling and not much else.
Lodge makes a two-sided griddle that fits over two burners, one side flat for pancakes and similar items and the other ribbed for grilling. I’ve had one of these for a number of years, and find it quite useful. Using the ribbed side for grilling works better outside than inside, but you can get pretty decent results by using the stovetop to get a good sear and grill marks on the meat, then finishing it in the oven. Otherwise, foods tend to smoke and splatter a little more than you might like to deal with in the kitchen.
I use the flat side for making quesadillas, and only turning on one burner, I can keep the quesadilla ingredients warm on the back, while cooking on the front burner.
Baking pans. A pizza pan, or large baking pan, is another must-have if you are a pizza and cookie
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 62
lover like I am. This large round pan measures a substantial 14 inches in diameter, and because it is a bit heavy, it’s nice that it comes with two handles. It’s a very versatile pan that is suited for just about any baking application. This pan makes a great crispy pizza crust, and you may find your highmaintenance pizza stone relegated to the cobwebs.
Fry pans. A fry pan can be another welcome addition to the cast-iron collection. Deeper than a skillet, fry pans allow for deep-frying without as much splattering. With a handle, and slightly shallower than a Dutch oven, they’re also great for simmering soups and stews. You can easily find combo fry pan and skillet, and the lid is designed to double as a skillet.
Vintage vs. Modern
Now that you have a wish list for cast iron, should you start scouring yard sales, or stick with a new pre-seasoned model?
There is very little difference in the casting process between the old skillets and the modern creations. The new ones may be a little thicker, but not enough to make a difference to the average cook.
In the old casting process, pans were usually polished, giving them a smoother surface than modern ones. But with enough use, the new pans will become just as nonstick, although maybe not quite as smooth and shiny as your grandmother’s vintage cast-iron skillet.
Many aficionados claim that vintage cast iron works better, but the older pieces often just have the advantage of decades of use and seasoning, especially if they were well cared for.
Newer pre-seasoned cast iron can be used right away, without going through the whole seasoning process, although until it’s good and broken in, cook with plenty of fat, or cook foods with higher fat content. Avoid acidic foods like tomatoes or citrus, as acidic foods are hard on the seasoning. You’ll want to keep it seasoned after each use.
Vintage flea market finds may require quite a bit of restoration before they are usable. If you are new to cast iron, and unless you inherit your grandmother’s collection, you may be better off sticking with a new piece until you get the hang of cooking with cast iron. After that, the sky’s the limit!
Whether you’re dusting off that cast-iron skillet that’s been languishing in the cupboard, you’ve inherited a family heirloom, or you’re just starting to get your feet wet in the world of cast iron, it won’t be long before you experience what all the fuss is about.
Modern Manufacturers
Lodge has remained, until recently, the only American manufacturer of cast iron. A new company, The Field Co. (www.fieldcompany.com), began a Kickstarter campaign to build a foundry and start producing cast-iron ware, and the Portland-based Finex began production in 2012. Wagner cast iron is available for purchase online, as well as Griswold cast irons. Both are considered rare cooking items now, but other similar items for purchase can be found at www.wagnerware.com.
Several European manufacturers make enamel-clad pieces. These pans get rave reviews, but can be a little on the pricey side. Camp Chef also has an extensive line of products, but they are manufactured overseas.
Enamel can be chipped if not careful (generally not covered under warranty), and care has to be taken when storing it, but enamel can handle acidic foods. For my money, a basic high-quality American-made cast-iron skillet can’t be beat.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: DAVE AND STEVE MASLOWSKI; COURTESY LEHMAN’S; COURTESY LODGE
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CAST IRON Cook it in
Dawn Marie
Cast-iron cookware is, in my own opinion, the secret “ingredient” to great-tasting food. I cook and bake exclusively with cast iron, and whether it’s golden French toast or perfect pan-fried steaks, I always reach for one of my more than 50 pieces of vintage and modern castiron cookware.
I scout out discarded and abandoned pieces of cast-iron cookware at yard sales and auctions. A 100-year-old rusty Griswold muffin pan came home with me for a pittance at a local auction. After a thorough scrub with coarse salt and a halved potato, I wiped it out with a damp dish towel to remove all the salt and then generously coated the muffin pan with bacon grease. After baking it in the oven at 325 degrees for three hours, the result was an amazing
transformation and muffins slide out with ease every time.
Contrary to popular belief, cast-iron cookware isn’t much more difficult to maintain than modern Teflon-coated or aluminum pans. Is cast iron heavy? Yes. Does it require a little TLC now and then? Yes. However, the results of your recipes will far outweigh these little “inconveniences.”
If you are interested in cooking with cast iron, start out with some basic pieces such as a skillet, muffin tin, and the always popular Dutch oven. You can find discarded pieces at yard sales, auctions, or in your grandmother’s attic. With a little elbow grease and some care, you can bring your piece back to life. Modern pieces such as Lodge come pre-seasoned. In both cases, once you’ve tasted a recipe prepared on cast iron, I’ll bet you will become hooked.
The following recipes use the basic cast-iron pieces I mentioned above. These recipes are easy to fix and my favorite.
Starboard Farm Classic
Maine Blueberry Muffins
Yields 12 muffins.
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
1 cup vanilla yogurt
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 large egg
1⁄2 cup coconut oil or cooking oil
1⁄2 cup sugar, plus additional for garnish
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup fresh (or frozen and slightly thawed) Maine wild blueberries, or locally available variety
1 Preheat oven to 350 F. Lightly grease cast-iron muffin tin.
2 In large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, and salt; set aside.
3 In medium bowl, combine vanilla yogurt and baking soda; set aside.
4 In large bowl, beat egg. Add oil, sugar, and vanilla, stir to combine. Alternate adding flour and yogurt mixtures to egg mixture, stirring until just blended. Carefully fold in blueberries.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 64
Article
and photographs by
Crocker Create mouthwatering meals using your cast-iron cookware.
5 Pour batter into muffin pan and sprinkle additional sugar atop each muffin. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until muffins are golden brown. Remove and cool.
Sun-Dried Tomato Basil Dutch Oven Bread
Yields 1 loaf.
3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1⁄2 teaspoon active dry yeast
13⁄4 cups lukewarm water
1 teaspoon salt
1⁄2 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes (not in oil)
1 tablespoon dried basil
1 In large bowl, combine all ingredients and stir until blended. The mixture will be very wet. Cover bowl with plastic wrap, and let stand at room temperature overnight or for at least 12 hours.
2 Turn dough out onto lightly floured surface. Sprinkle dough with flour and fold it over onto itself once or twice. Cover with light dish towel and let rise for 2 hours.
3 Preheat oven to 450 F and place a 3- to 5-quart cast-iron Dutch oven in oven while preheating. (The size of the Dutch oven will determine how thick your bread will be in the center; use a smaller Dutch oven for thicker loaves and a larger Dutch oven for thin loaves. Adjust baking time accordingly.)
4 Carefully remove Dutch oven from heat and generously brush inside with olive oil. Transfer dough to Dutch oven, cover, and bake for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, remove lid and continue baking for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool and slice.
Wilma’s Ledge Curried Halibut
Recipe by Dawn Marie Crocker & Ben Crocker Jr. Yields 4 servings.
STARBOARD FARM SPICE MIX:
2 tablespoons dried parsley
3 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 teaspoon dried basil
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon thyme
CURRIED HALIBUT:
1 cup breadcrumbs or panko
1
2 teaspoon curry powder
1 teaspoon Starboard Farm spice mix
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed to coat cast-iron skillet
2 pounds fresh halibut fillets
Salt, to taste
Pepper, to taste
4 tablespoons salted butter, melted
1 Preheat oven to 425 F.
2 To make spice mix: In medium bowl, combine all ingredients and mix until well blended.
3 To make halibut: In medium bowl, combine bread crumbs, curry powder, and spice mix; set aside.
4 On the stovetop, heat large castiron skillet over high heat and coat with olive oil. Season halibut with salt and pepper on both sides, and add to skillet skin side down. Cook for 4 minutes and turn fillets carefully. Cook an additional 4 minutes and turn again so skin side is down.
5 Top fillets with breadcrumb mixture and pour melted butter evenly over breaded fillets.
6 Transfer to the oven and bake for 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from oven and serve immediately.
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5 Reasons Why Your Bread Dough Doesn’t Rise
wiggle room on either side, but not much. So if the dough sits too long in a cold room, the yeast will eventually become dormant or die. You can set the rising dough in a warm place, like on top of the refrigerator or in a gas oven that has an always-on pilot light. I usually turn my electric oven on preheat for just a minute or two, turn it off and let the bread rise in the oven.
Not enough time to rise. We live in an “I want it now” world. But rising dough takes time. A longer rise time could be due to a room that is a bit too cold or it could be that the yeast was dead. It could be because you are using a different kind of flour, or wholegrain flour. If the dough hasn’t risen much, give it more time.
The wrong size pan. Sometimes it isn’t that the dough didn’t rise, but that it doesn’t look like it rose. Usually it is because the pan is too large for the amount of dough. Use this rule of thumb:
• A recipe with approximately 3 cups of flour is perfect for an 81⁄2-by-41⁄2-inch pan.
By Renee Pottle
Recently, several people have told me, “I can’t make bread. It won’t rise.” Despite our best efforts, sometimes flour + water + yeast doesn’t equal a tantalizing loaf of bread; it’s just a large lump of dough.
Needless to say, this can be frustrating. Making a loaf of bread is a commitment. We carve time out of our day to plan and mix in anticipation of something that can’t be recreated at the grocery store: a freshly baked loaf of bread, its aroma wafting through the house. Having that experience crash and burn may dissuade us from ever trying again. And that would be too bad, because chances are one of these reasons deflated your dough:
Old dead yeast. Dry, inactive yeast can live for years. But if you used a packet of yeast found hiding in the back of the refrigerator, chances are it was dead. Yeast submitted to fluctuating temperatures may be dead too, no matter how recently it was purchased. Don’t automatically assume you did something wrong. It could be as simple as dead yeast.
Yeast is too hot. Recipes that call for active dry yeast direct you to dissolve it in warm water. Sometimes the recipe calls for the liquid to be heated with fat and then added to the yeast. Either way, if the liquid is too hot, it will kill off yeast cells. Invest in a kitchen thermometer so you can test the water temperature next time.
The room is too cold. Yeast prefers a narrow temperature range, usually between 75 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. There is a little
• A recipe with approximately 4 cups of flour is perfect for a 9-by-5-inch pan.
• A recipe with approximately 41 2 cups of flour is perfect for a 10-by-5-inch pan.
What to Do?
In the meantime, what can we do with that flat lump of dough that didn’t rise?
• Roll some of it out and bake homemade crackers.
• Wrap strips around sticks and let the kids cook it over an open fire—still one of my favorite memories from childhood.
• Stretch it thin and bake into flatbreads.
• Stretch it thin, cook in a skillet, and spread with butter, cinnamon, and sugar.
Your dough may not have risen, but that doesn’t mean you can’t make bread. It just means you made a bread alternative and now you can try again. Good luck!
RENEE POTTLE GRIT’s Guide to Homemade Bread 66
An experienced baker provides insight on this frustrating obstacle to baking great bread.
You’re sure to discover new loaves to love !
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Good to the LAST SLICE
Make the most of your daily bread with these hearty, homey recipes that transform leftover to luscious.
By Sophia Markoulakis
Likemany people raised in Mediterranean households, I was taught to preserve and venerate bread. Whether collecting fallen crumbs from my cupped hands while exiting church or feeding ducks with our weekly scraps, many of my childhood memories revolve around bread and how best to honor it and stretch its uses. Naturally, my grown-up menus now include homemade breadcrumbs and fragrant garlic croutons, but with so many fresh bread options available today, my repertoire has expanded to use up other varieties such as pita, whole wheat, and sweet brioche. One only has to investigate the indigenous recipes of diff erent countries to fi nd creative and delicious ways to utilize leftover bread.
Most countries and cultures that consume bread put dry leftovers to good use. In the Middle East, breads like pita and lavash are added to salads. Matzo, crushed into a fi ne crumb, is an acceptable replacement for matzo meal when preparing matzo ball soup. In Europe, Spain’s tapas bars serve the ubiquitous Pan Catalan , or dry bread rubbed with a fresh tomato. Italy, too, fi nds frugal reuse of bread. Panzanella salad and r ibollita and pappa al pomodoro soup all benefi t from the added bulk of bread. e French added eggs and milk to stale bread to create French toast, while the British have their baked bread-and-butter puddings. eir seasonal summer pudding wouldn’t hold up as well without slightly stale white bread acting as a spongy vessel for sweet and juicy red currants and berries.
Nearly all forms of stale bread can be brought back to life with a little liquid. Reconstituted bread acts as a thickening agent for soups, stews, and baked foods. It was, and still is, a great way to stretch a dish. When you don’t think you have enough salad ingredients to feed unexpected guests, throw in a few handfuls of torn sourdough and add an extra splash of dressing. Short an egg or two for a breakfast scramble? Add torn pieces of baguette or white bread and a shot of olive oil or a spoonful of cream.
I love to look back on the lessons from history, especially when they teach us what not to repeat.
Sometimes, though, they prompt us to refl ect on the good and remind us of a simpler time when something like a loaf of bread was sacred and considered a valuable commodity, not discarded like waste. One loaf provided several meals’ worth of sustenance. Even when my cupboards are plentiful, I try to never forget the times when they weren’t. Using all my bread scraps in recipes is my way of honoring history and food itself.
As long as bread is not moldy, it can be used in recipes. Fresh, preservative-free bread has to be either dry or kept refrigerated to inhibit the formation of mold. If you’re unsure how or when you are going to use your leftover bread, freeze it by wrapping tightly in foil and placing in an airtight container or zip-locked bag.
Winter Fattoush Salad
This traditional Armenian salad uses up stale pita bread, a staple in most Middle Eastern kitchens. Sumac enhances the tartness of the salad and is a great spice to have on hand. Find it in Middle Eastern markets, spice shops or online. If unavailable, squirt a wedge of lemon over each serving. This salad works well as a main dish. SERVES 6 TO 8
2 pita loaves, split in half and torn into bite-size pieces
8 cups nely chopped romaine lettuce
1 medium-size fennel bulb, halved, cored, and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fennel bulb fronds
1 bunch radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced
1 cup thinly sliced red onion
1 2 cup chopped mint
2 blood oranges
1 lemon, halved and juiced
1 2 teaspoon salt
1 2 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper
1 2 teaspoon sumac
1 4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 Spread pita pieces evenly on a cookie sheet and place in a 250 F oven for 10 minutes. Pita should feel dry, but not be allowed to brown. Remove from oven and set aside to cool.
2 Add lettuce, fennel, fronds, radishes, onion, and mint to a large salad bowl; set aside.
3 Peel and segment oranges; add orange slices to salad and squeeze orange cores with your hand over measuring cup. Collect any juice from cutting board and add to measuring cup. Add the juice of 1 lemon to cup; juice should measure approximately 1⁄2 cup. Add salt, pepper, and sumac; whisk to dissolve salt. In a steady stream, add oil to juice-spice mixture and whisk until emulsi ed.
4 Add pita to salad and pour dressing over salad; toss well to combine and serve.
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KATI MOLIN
“One only has to investigate the indigenous recipes of different countries to find creative and delicious ways to utilize leftover bread.”
Brioche Buns With Preserved Cherries and WhippedRosemaryCream
Brioche rolls are often left over after a dinner party or holiday gathering. Sometimes we put them in the freezer, or put them in the bread box and simply forget to use them up. This recipe puts them to good use and takes full advantage of their subtle sweetness. Feel free to use homemade preserved cherries. Specialty kitchen and gourmet stores carry imported brands such as Amarena Fabbri Italian Cherries, which are delicious and can also be used on top of ice cream. SERVES 6
1 pint heavy whipping cream
2 sprigs rosemary, rinsed and dried
6 brioche buns
1 tablespoon butter, melted
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
3 tablespoons powdered sugar
Preserved cherries
1 Place cream and rosemary in a saucepan. Over low heat, slowly bring cream to a simmer, stirring occasionally so cream doesn’t stick to the bottom of the pan. Allow to barely simmer for 15 minutes. Remove pan from heat; strain cream into a bowl, discard rosemary, and cool. Once cool, cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours. Cream can be prepared the day before. Keep chilled until ready to whip.
2 Preheat oven to 350 F. Split brioche buns in half and place on a cookie sheet. Brush each half with butter and sprinkle brown sugar on top. Place in oven and toast bread until sugar has melted and begins to caramelize but not burn, about 7 minutes.
3 Remove cream from refrigerator and whip until soft peaks begin to form. Slowly add powdered sugar and continue to whip until firm peaks form; do not overwhip.
4 To serve, place bottom half of brioche on a plate, spoon enough cherries and syrup to cover bread, and add a dollop of whipped cream on top. Place top half of brioche at an angle so that it rests on the side of the bottom and filling. Garnish with additional cherries and a small rosemary sprig.
Mushroom-Leek Strata
This savory bread pudding is the perfect side for a prime rib roast or pork loin. The heartiness of the whole-wheat bread adds richness to the dish. It could easily work as a main dish, accompanied by a salad of lightly dressed mixed greens. SERVES 6 TO 8
4 cups 1 2-inch cubed day-old whole-wheat country loaf bread
1⁄2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
1 cup hot water
1 tablespoon butter
2 cups sliced crimini (brown) mushrooms
2 medium leeks, trimmed, halved, and finely chopped
1 garlic clove, pressed or minced
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
1 4 cup white wine
6 eggs
1 cup whole milk
1 2 teaspoon salt
1 2 teaspoon fresh-ground pepper
11 2 cups grated fontina cheese
1 Spread bread cubes evenly on a cookie sheet and place in a 250 F oven for 20 minutes. Bread should feel dry, but not be allowed to brown. Remove from oven and set aside to cool.
2 Place dried porcini mushrooms in a small bowl and add hot water; place a smaller bowl or coffee mug on top to keep mushrooms submerged. Allow mushrooms to reconstitute and soften for 30 minutes; remove from water and chop. Place a paper towel over the top of a measuring cup and slowly pour reserved mushroom liquid over towel; discard towel and set liquid aside.
3 Add butter to a large skillet and place over medium-high heat. When melted, add porcini mushrooms, crimini mushrooms, leeks, garlic, and thyme. Sauté until mushrooms and leeks are cooked, 7 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally so leeks and garlic don’t burn. Add wine and scrape bottom of pan with utensil to remove any browned bits. Remove from heat and set aside.
4 In a large mixing bowl, add eggs, milk, salt, and pepper. Whisk well to incorporate. Add mushroom-leek mixture, cheese, 1 2 cup of reserved mushroom liquid, and bread; mix well to combine. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes so that bread soaks up some of the liquid. Preheat oven to 350 F.
5 Butter a 7-by-11-inch or 8-inch square baking dish and add strata mixture. Bake strata, uncovered, for 45 minutes. Check doneness by inserting a knife in center of dish; the knife should come out clean.
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 70
Strata is a dish that uses leftover bread to the fullest.
Vegetarian Ribollita Soup
Traditionally, ribollita is prepared with pancetta or another cured pork product. To lighten the recipe, I removed the pork and find it just as satisfying. This recipe uses prepared vegetable stock. Commercial vegetable stock often contains large amounts of sodium, so either use a trusted brand or taste prior to using in this recipe. Add salt to soup as needed. SERVES 6 TO 8
1 can cannellini beans
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1 cup finely chopped carrots
1 cup finely chopped celery
11⁄2 cups finely chopped yellow onion
2 garlic cloves, minced or pressed, plus 1 garlic clove, bruised with the back of chef’s knife
2 cups crushed tomatoes
6 cups vegetable broth
1 cup water
1 bay leaf
1 2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 2 teaspoon sweet smoked paprika
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
4 cups finely chopped Tuscan kale
81⁄2-inch slices day-old Italian loaf bread
Pecorino Romano cheese, for topping
1 Drain and rinse beans; set aside. In a mediumsize stockpot or Dutch oven, add 2 tablespoons olive oil and heat over medium heat. Add carrots, celery, onion, and 2 garlic cloves, and sauté, stirring occasionally for 10 minutes until vegetables are softened and fragrant. Add tomatoes, broth, water, bay leaf, red pepper flakes, and paprika and increase heat to high. When soup begins to boil, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2 Add reserved beans, oregano, and kale; continue to simmer for another 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and taste; add salt if needed (see notes above).
3 While soup is resting, preheat oven to 350 F. Arrange bread slices on cookie sheet and brush with remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Holding clove with your fingers, rub the top of each slice with bruised garlic clove; discard garlic or scatter pieces of clove on each slice. Toast for about 7 minutes.
4 To serve soup, place a slice of bread in the bottom of a soup bowl; ladle soup on top of bread. With a vegetable peeler, peel a few thin slices of cheese on top of each bowl of soup.
TipTuscan kale, used in the Vegetarian Ribollita Soup recipe at left, is known by several other names. It is also identified as Lacinato kale, Tuscan cabbage, dinosaur kale, cavolo nero, and black kale, among other names.
Baked Eggs With Pancetta, Goat Cheese, and Chives
Traditional French-style baked eggs are usually prepared in individual ramekins. This recipe uses a giant muffin pan. (Remember when they were all the rage?) The bread acts as an edible basket, cradling the savory ingredients and gently baked egg. If you gave away your muffin pan or never bought one, feel free to use 8- or 10-ounce ramekins. Also, a sweet French baguette is not sweet like a coffee roll; rather, the dough is made from baker’s yeast and doesn’t have the tang of a sourdough baguette.
SERVES 4
24 thin slices sweet French baguette
3 tablespoons butter, melted
3 ounces pancetta, finely chopped
1 cup finely sliced yellow onions
4 tablespoons crumbled goat cheese
4 jumbo eggs
Salt and pepper, for seasoning
2 tablespoons chopped chives
1 Fill 2 sections of a 6-mold muffin pan with water 2 3 of the way.
2 For the remaining 4 molds, brush insides of each and both sides of bread slices with melted butter. Place 2 slices of bread on the bottom of each mold; fit 4 slices around sides of each mold so that slices rest on top of bottom slices. If slices are too big, adjust by tearing off a portion of the last slice or eliminating the last slice all together.
3 Cook pancetta in a skillet over medium heat until crispy, about 5 minutes. Remove pancetta from skillet and place in a bowl; set aside. Discard all but about 1 teaspoon
of grease. To same skillet, sauté onions over medium-low heat until soft and fragrant, about 7 minutes.
4 Preheat oven to 325 F.
5 Divide sautéed onions evenly between 4 prepared molds; spread evenly so that the bread bottoms are completely covered.
6 Divide pancetta evenly between molds and sprinkle on top of onions.
7 Sprinkle 1 tablespoon goat cheese on top of each prepared mold. Working with one prepared mold at a time, crack an egg and gently allow the white to slide out of its shell into prepared mold with the yolk centered in the middle.
8 Season the top of each egg with salt and pepper and sprinkle 1 2 tablespoon chives on top. Repeat with remaining eggs and chives.
9 Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove eggs before completely set, as eggs will continue to cook while cooling. Once eggs have set, about 5 minutes, gently remove and serve.
Bread-Drying 101
Using leftover bread in recipes is simple, as long as you follow some basic steps. The sooner you know how to use up your leftover bread, the better. Allowing bread to harden in a dark, dry place prevents mold from forming. If possible, slice or cube bread into appropriate-sized pieces and place on a cookie sheet to dry; place in an unheated oven overnight to thoroughly dry out.
www.Grit.com 71 LEFT TO RIGHT: BARBARA PHEBY; LIVFRIIS-LARSEN
Any Way You Slice It
Homemade pies are the ultimate dessert.
Article by Traci Smith Photography by Lori Dunn
If you’re one of those people, and you usually just opt for a store-bought crust, consider trying your hand at the homemade approach again, using the following pie crust recipe—and following the “Tips for Perfect Pastry Every Time” on page 73. It may take a few times to get it right, but you’ll eventually get it, and then you’ll find it hard to believe you ever bought pie crust from a grocery store.
Grab your apron, roll up your sleeves, and let’s get baking!
Perfect Pastry
Yields 3 single pie crusts.
2 cups all-purpose flour, sifted (10 ounces)
1 teaspoon salt
3⁄4 cup solid fat (lard, butter, or shortening)
1⁄4 cup cold milk
1 Preheat oven to 450 F.
2 In large bowl, combine flour and salt, whisking to ensure salt gets evenly distributed. With pastry blender, cut in fat until mixture forms pea-sized crumbs. Add milk, and mix with fork until dough comes together in ball.
Pies
are the perfect dessert any time of year. In the summertime, cool and creamy pies are a refreshing treat. In the cooler months, nothing is more comforting than a warm slice of fruit pie, especially if it’s topped with a scoop of ice cream. And, if you’re looking for something to take to a potluck or church supper, you simply cannot go wrong with a pie. After all, who doesn’t love pie? It’s an American favorite.
According to the American Pie Council website (www.piecouncil.org), pie has been around since the ancient Egyptians. In fact, the Oxford English Dictionary notes that the word “pie” was popular during the 14th century. In those early days, pies were most generally made with meats. It wasn’t until the 1500s that fruit pies were first introduced—Queen Elizabeth I is credited with making the first cherry pie.
A perfect pie starts with the crust. While making a pie crust sounds easy enough, a lot of people have trouble with it, and their efforts produce a crust that’s anything but light and flaky.
3 Divide dough into 3 portions. On lightly floured work surface, using floured rolling pin, roll each portion of dough out into circle, about 1 8-inch thick. Carefully transfer to 3 ungreased 8-inch pie plates.
4 Add the filling to unbaked pie shells, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until filling is bubbly and crusts are golden brown.
NOTE: If the pie shells need to be baked before adding your filling, prick the crusts liberally with a fork, and bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown, in a preheated 400-degree oven. Make sure to cool completely on wire racks before filling.
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Butterscotch Peach Pie is sure to be a crowd-pleaser.
Butterscotch Peach Pie
Yields 1 pie.
Prepared pastry for single-crust pie
12 peach halves
1⁄4 cup syrup from peaches
3⁄4 cup brown sugar
6 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1⁄8 teaspoon mace
1 Preheat oven to 450 F.
2 Roll out pastry to form 11-inch circle. Transfer pastry to 9-inch pie plate. Cut strips from leftover pastry scraps, and set aside.
3 Arrange peach halves, cut side up, over pastry in pie plate. Set aside.
4 In saucepan over medium heat, combine syrup, brown sugar, butter, flour, lemon juice, and mace. Cook, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens. Pour over peaches in pie plate. Cover with pastry strips, in crisscross pattern.
5 Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 400 F, and bake for another 30 minutes, or until crust is golden brown. Cool slightly.
Garden-Fresh Apple Pie
With Cider-Pecan Crust
Yields 1 pie.
2 cups all-purpose flour (10 ounces)
1 teaspoon salt
2⁄3 cup lard or other solid shortening
1⁄2 cup finely crushed pecans
1⁄4 cup cold apple cider
7 tart apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
1⁄2 teaspoon nutmeg
1⁄2 teaspoon cinnamon
1⁄4 cup sugar
1⁄2 cup raisins
1⁄2 cup diced candied fruit
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon cold butter, cut into bits
1 egg yolk
1 Preheat oven to 425 F.
2 In large bowl, combine flour and salt. Cut in lard with fork or pastry blender until dough resembles giant peas. Mix in pecans.
Tips for Perfect Pastry Every Time
WEIGH YOUR FLOUR: Most recipes measure flour by volume instead of weight, meaning they call for 1 cup of flour instead of 5 ounces. A perfectly measured cup of flour weighs 5 ounces. However, that same cup will weigh less if you pack the flour too loosely, and it will weigh more if you pack it in the measuring cup too tightly. To be sure you’re using the proper amount of flour, weigh it on a kitchen scale.
USE COLD INGREDIENTS: All of your ingredients should be cold—including the flour and salt—to achieve the best results. The fat especially needs to be very cold, so it stays solid during the mixing process. (Put your shortening in the freezer for a bit to make sure it’s good and cold, almost frozen.) Once the prepared pastry goes into the oven, the shortening will melt, creating small air pockets between the layers of dough, which is what produces a tender, flaky crust.
MIX DOUGH WITH FOOD PROCESSOR:
You’ve more than likely heard that minimal handling of the dough will help ensure flakiness—and that’s true. The more you mix pastry dough, the tougher it will be.
Using a food processor mixes the dough quickly and lightly—way more lightly than mixing it with your hands. To mix your dough in a food processor, combine twothirds of the flour with salt, and pulse a few times to evenly distribute the salt. Add all of the shortening, and pulse until a ball forms around the blade, about two minutes. Add the remaining flour, and process until mixture forms coarse crumbs, about another minute. With the food processor running, add your cold liquid, a little at a time, and process just until the mixture begins to form a ball. You may or may not need all the liquid called for in the recipe. Remove dough from the food processor, and squeeze it gently with your hands a couple of times to form a ball. Wrap dough in plastic wrap, and place it in the refrigerator to chill until firm.
CHILL YOUR DOUGH AND ROLLING PIN:
To make rolling easier, chill the pastry dough for at least an hour. When you put your dough in the refrigerator, put your rolling pin there, too. Using a cold rolling pin will keep the shortening particles from breaking down and melting during the rolling process.
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Garden-Fresh Apple Pie With Cider-Pecan Crust—can’t beat it.
Sprinkle apple cider on dough, a spoonful at a time, and mix gently until dough holds together.
3 Divide dough into 2 balls. On lightly floured surface, with floured rolling pin, roll out each ball of dough to form 11-inch circle, about ⅛-inch thick. Transfer 1 dough circle to 9-inch pie plate, and trim dough so 1⁄2 inch extends beyond rim. Leave other dough circle where it is.
4 In large bowl, combine apples, nutmeg, cinnamon, sugar, raisins, candied fruit, and lemon juice, and toss gently to coat. Spoon filling into crust in pie plate. Scatter butter bits over filling. Cover with top crust, and flute edges to seal. Prick top crust with fork.
5 In bowl, beat egg yolk with whisk. Brush over top crust.
6 In bowl, combine a little additional cinnamon and sugar, and mix. Sprinkle over crust.
7 Bake for 50 to 60 minutes, or until apples are tender and crust is golden.
Raisin Honey Pie
Yields 1 pie.
1 cup raisins
1⁄2 cup water
1⁄2 cup mild-tasting honey (such as clover or alfalfa)
1 tablespoon butter
1 egg yolk
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1⁄4 cup chopped nuts
Prepared pastry for double-crust pie
1 Preheat oven to 350 F.
2 In saucepan over medium heat, stew raisins in water until tender, about 15 minutes. Stir in honey, butter, egg yolk, flour, and nuts, and continue cooking until mixture thickens. Set aside.
3 Roll out half the pastry dough to form 11-inch circle. Transfer to 9-inch pie plate, and trim edges, leaving 1⁄2-inch overhang.
4 Pour filling into pastry in pie plate.
5 Roll out remaining pastry dough to form 12-inch circle. Place over filling, and seal and flute edges.
6 Bake for about 40 minutes, or until crust is golden. Cool before slicing.
NOTE: If desired, this pie can be prepared with a single crust and a meringue topping instead of a double crust. Simply place the filling in a baked pie crust, and cover with prepared meringue. Bake until meringue is nicely browned, about 10 to 12 minutes.
Very Berry Pie Yields 1 pie.
11⁄2 cups blueberries
11⁄2 cups raspberries
1 cup blackberries
1 cup sugar
3 tablespoons quick-cooking tapioca
Prepared pastry for double-crust pie
1 tablespoon butter, cut into bits
1 Preheat oven to 400 F.
2 In large bowl, gently stir together
berries, sugar, and tapioca. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes.
3 Roll out half the pastry dough into 11-inch-diameter circle on lightly floured surface. Transfer pastry to 9-inch pie plate, and trim, leaving 1 2-inch overhang.
4 Pour berry mixture into pastry in pie plate. Dot with butter.
5 Roll out remaining pastry to form a 12-inch circle. Carefully place over filling. Seal and flute edges. Cut several slits in top pastry to permit steam to escape.
6 Bake for 1 hour, or until crust is golden and juices form bubbles that burst slowly. Cool completely before serving.
Cherry Amber Pie
Yields 1 pie.
1 cup sour cream
1 cup cherries, pitted
3 eggs, separated
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 2 cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 baked 9-inch pie shell
1 Preheat oven to 350 F.
2 In saucepan over medium heat, combine sour cream, cherries, egg yolks, flour, and 1⁄2 cup sugar. Cook until thick, while stirring constantly.
3 Pour thickened filling into baked pie shell. Set aside.
4 In small bowl, using electric mixer, beat egg whites with remaining sugar until stiff. Spread meringue over pie filling.
5 Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until meringue is nicely browned.
Ooey-gooey Raisin Honey Pie is perfect for a potluck.
Sweet and fruity Very Berry Pie will no doubt be a hit.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 74
Cherry Amber Pie combines a creamy filling with meringue.
Gluten-Free Goodies
Going gluten-free is easier than you think with these delicious recipes.
By Kellsey Trimble
Goinggluten-free has been catching on in the culinary world in recent years, as many folks are finding that they are anywhere from mildly to severely affected by gluten. You don’t have to have celiac disease to be affected by gluten. Even milder forms of wheat allergies are enough cause for some to steer clear of wheat products completely, in hopes of avoiding side effects.
Although more people are discovering their aversion to wheat products, the good news is that, with some minor adjustments and ingredient substitutes, they can still eat their favorite baked foods. ere are a slew of recipes available that keep the gluten out and the delicious flavors in.
You might even find that the glutenfree version of your favorite banana bread tastes even better than the original.
ose who are not gluten intolerant have even reported that cutting back on gluten in their diet has helped them feel better overall. e following recipes are
simple and delicious, and allow everyone to enjoy breads, baked goods, and even pizza. Happy gluten-free baking!
Gluten-Free Pizza Crust
Recipe printed with permission from Karina Allrich, Gluten-Free Goddess. Yields 2 pizza crusts.
1 cup tapioca starch
1 cup potato starch
1 cup sorghum flour
1⁄2 cup brown rice flour, plus more for dusting pizza pan
1⁄2 cup gluten-free millet flour
3 teaspoons gluten-free baking powder
2 teaspoons xanthan gum
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon organic light brown sugar
1 packet (1 4 ounce) active dry yeast
11⁄4 cups warm water (110-115 F), divided Pinch of sugar
1⁄4 cup high-quality olive oil
1⁄4 cup organic free-range egg whites, beaten, or egg replacer equivalent to 2 eggs
1⁄4 teaspoon light-tasting rice vinegar
Extra-virgin olive oil
Fresh garlic and Italian herbs
Fresh vegetables and cheese
1 Grease two 12-inch pizza pans, and dust lightly with brown rice flour. Set aside.
2 In large mixing bowl, whisk together starches, flours, baking powder, xanthan gum, sea salt, and brown sugar.
3 Proof yeast in 1 cup warm water with a pinch of sugar.
4 Add proofed yeast to dry ingredients. Add olive oil, egg whites, and vinegar, and beat until dough is smooth and sticky. Add remaining water if needed. Dough should be creamy smooth and not too thick. It will not be sturdy like typical bread dough; it almost borders on batter.
5 Using silicone spatula, divide dough in half. Scoop each half onto center of prepared pans. Using clean, wet hands, press down lightly and flatten dough to create a thin, even pizza shell, with slightly raised edges. You’ll have to rinse your hands more than once to do this. Take your time to smooth out the dough with wet palms.
6 Set pizza shells in warm spot to rest and rise for about 15 minutes.
7 Preheat oven to 400 F.
8 When oven is hot, place pans side by side on center rack (if oven is too small to do this, use two racks, and rotate pans halfway through baking to avoid overcooking on lower rack).
9 Bake for 10 minutes, or until golden. Remove from oven.
10 Heat broiler.
11 Brush shells with a little extra-virgin olive oil. Season with additional sea salt, garlic, and Italian herbs. Top with your choice of fresh vegetables and cheese.
12 Broil for 4 to 5 minutes, or until cheese is melted. Don’t overcook.
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LORI DUNN
Customize the toppings for your gluten-free pizza crust.
Gluten-Free Naan
Yields 8 servings.
11 2 teaspoons active dry yeast
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
1⁄2 cup warm water (110-115 F)
11 2 cups brown rice flour, divided, plus more for rolling
1⁄2 cup potato starch
1⁄2 cup tapioca flour
1⁄3 cup sweet rice flour
1⁄4 teaspoon gluten-free baking powder
11 2 teaspoons xanthan gum
1⁄2 teaspoon fine salt
2 large eggs, room temperature
2⁄3 cup unsalted butter, melted and cooled slightly, divided
1⁄4 cup plain nonfat yogurt
1 Combine yeast, sugar, water, and 1⁄4 cup brown rice flour in bowl of stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, and mix well. Set aside for about 10 minutes while yeast proofs.
2 Combine remaining brown rice flour, potato starch, tapioca flour, sweet rice flour, baking powder, xanthan gum, and salt in deep bowl, and whisk well.
3 When yeast mixture looks frothy, add eggs, 1 3 cup butter, and yogurt. Add dry ingredients, and beat at medium speed until combined. Increase speed to high, and beat for 3 to 5 minutes, or until dough reaches consistency of thick cake batter that would require spreading in cake pan. e batter should be too thick to pour.
4 Lightly grease inside of large mixing bowl with olive oil or butter. Scrape dough out of mixer bowl and into greased bowl, smoothing top with moistened fingers or rubber spatula dipped in water. Cover bowl loosely with oiled plastic wrap or damp tea towel, and place in warm, draft-free spot to allow dough to rise for 1 to 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk.
5 Have bowl of additional rice flour and bowl of tepid water ready on counter. Sprinkle some rice flour on counter.
6 Punch down dough and divide into 8 balls; dough will be sticky. Roll each ball in rice flour as you divide it, then roll out each ball into 7-inch circle.
7 Heat large skillet over high heat for at least 3 minutes, or until it is almost smoking.
8 Dampen hands in water bowl, and rub both sides of piece of naan to lightly dampen it. Place dampened piece of dough in skillet, and cook for 1 minute, or until dough starts to bubble. Turn over with tongs, cover skillet, and cook for an additional 45 seconds to 1 minute, or until bottom is browned. Remove naan from skillet, and brush both sides with remaining melted butter. Repeat with remaining dough balls. Serve hot.
NOTE: e breads can be cooked up to 3 hours in advance and stored at room temperature. Just before serving, reheat the bread in a skillet placed over medium heat.
Gluten-Free Banana Bread
With Blueberries
Yields 1 loaf.
1⁄4 cup unsalted butter, melted, or coconut oil, plus more for greasing pan
2 large eggs
1⁄4 cup pure maple syrup
3 bananas, mashed
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1⁄4 cup coconut flour
1 cup gluten-free oat flour
2 teaspoons gluten-free baking powder
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
2 tablespoons ground flaxseed
1 cup blueberries, fresh or frozen
1 Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease loaf pan with butter or coconut oil. Set aside.
2 In bowl, whisk together butter, eggs, maple syrup, mashed bananas, and vanilla until thoroughly combined.
3 In separate bowl, mix flours, baking powder, salt, nutmeg, and flaxseed. Add to banana mixture, and stir with spatula or wooden spoon until combined. Fold in blueberries.
4 Turn batter into prepared pan, and bake for 50 minutes, or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
Gluten-Free All-Purpose Flour
Yields 9 cups.
4 cups finely ground or stone-ground white rice flour
2 cups stone-ground brown rice flour
2 cups tapioca flour or tapioca starch
1 cup potato starch (not potato flour)
1 In extra large bowl, combine all ingredients and whisk together until thoroughly blended. Use large spoon to bring flour from bottom of bowl up to top, and whisk again. Repeat this a few more times to make sure flours are evenly distributed throughout the entire mixture.
2 Store mixture in airtight container or zipper-seal storage bags at room temperature for up to 1 month. For longer storage, keep flour in refrigerator or freezer.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 76
Warm naan bread completes any gluten-free meal.
This moist banana bread just might be your new favorite.
NOTE: Before using the flour, allow it to come up to room temperature, and gently stir it before measuring. To measure the flour, lightly spoon it into desired measuring cup and level off the top with a straight-edged utensil, such as the back of a butter knife.
Gluten-Free Pumpkin Honey Spice Cookies
Yields about 3 dozen cookies.
2 cups gluten-free flour blend*
1 tablespoon pumpkin pie spice
1 teaspoon gluten-free baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1⁄2 teaspoon guar gum powder
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
3⁄4 cup honey
1⁄2 cup butter, softened
1 cup pumpkin purée
1 large egg
1 cup chopped pecans
2⁄3 cup dried cranberries
1 Preheat oven to 350 F. en, grease 3 cookie sheets, or line with parchment paper. Set aside.
2 In bowl, whisk together flour blend, pumpkin pie spice, baking powder, baking soda, guar gum powder, and salt.
3 In bowl of stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment, cream honey and butter. Beat in pumpkin and egg. e mixture will look curdled; it will
smooth out when the dry ingredients are added.
4 With mixer on low speed, add dry ingredients, and mix until thoroughly blended. Mix in pecans and cranberries.
5 Drop tablespoons of dough, about 1 inch apart, onto prepared cookie sheets, and bake for 15 minutes, or until firm to the touch.
6 Cool on cookie sheets for up to 5 minutes. en, using spatula, transfer cookies to wire rack and cool completely.
NOTE: Use store-bought gluten-free flour blend, or make your own blend by combining equal parts of white rice flour, tapioca starch, and potato starch or gluten-free cornstarch.
Gluten-Free French Baguette
Yields 1 loaf.
2 tablespoons ground chia seeds
21⁄4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1 cup warm water (110-115 F), divided
2⁄3 cup millet flour, plus more if needed
1⁄2 cup garbanzo bean flour
1⁄4 cup tapioca flour
1⁄3 cup cornstarch
1⁄3 cup potato starch
3⁄4 teaspoon xanthan gum
1⁄2 teaspoon fine salt
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
1 tablespoon poppy seeds, optional
1 Grease inside of long French baguette pan with vegetable oil or softened butter; set aside.
2 Combine chia seeds, yeast, sugar, and 1⁄ 2 cup warm water in bowl of stand mixer fi tted with paddle attachment, and mix well. Set aside for about 10 minutes while yeast proofs.
3 Combine fl ours, cornstarch, potato starch, xanthan gum, and salt in mixing bowl, and whisk to blend.
4 When yeast mixture looks frothy, add remaining warm water and melted butter, and mix well. Add dry ingredients, and beat at medium speed until combined. Increase speed to high, and beat 3 to 5 minutes more, or until dough is consistency of drop biscuit dough. Add more millet fl our, about 1 tablespoon at a time.
5 Scrape dough evenly into prepared pan, forming into long line. Cover pan loosely with oiled plastic wrap or damp towel, and allow dough to rise in warm spot for 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk. Sprinkle top of loaf with poppy seeds, if desired.
6 Place oven racks in middle and lowest positions. Place rimmed baking sheet on lower rack and pizza stone on upper rack. Preheat oven to 400 F toward end of rising time. At same time, bring kettle of water to boil, and have spray bottle of water handy.
7 Pour 1 cup boiling water from kettle into heated sheet pan, and slide bread pan on top of heated pizza stone. With spray bottle, spray walls of oven with water. Close oven door and wait 30 seconds, then open oven door and spray oven walls again.
8 Bake bread 20 minutes. Cover loosely with aluminum foil, and continue baking for an additional 20 to 25 minutes, or until top is golden brown, sounds hollow, thumps when tapped on bottom, and reaches internal temperature of 200 F on instant-read thermometer. Remove bread from oven and allow to cool for 30 minutes before slicing. Now your bread is ready to be served!
NOTE: e bread is best the day it is baked, but it can be stored, tightly covered with a plastic wrap, in the refrigerator for up to two days.
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These chewy cookies are sweet with a touch of spice.
Guests will love slices of warm baguette with herbed butter. LEFT TO RIGHT: LORI DUNN; ISTOCK/LAURI PATTERSON; LORI DUNN; ISTOCK/FOTOCUISINETTE
Sweet Something
By Evan Blake Welch
Onetempting whiff of the aroma from my mom’s freshly baked bread pudding was all she needed to call my friends and me in from our various outdoor pursuits. How could we not drop everything to taste that delicious, mouthwatering creation?
Seated around the table with ruffled hair and dirt clinging to our shirts, we’d devour the treat, and unknowingly develop memories of what it meant to be home. The pudding was gone within minutes of our arrival Mom always said that was the best compliment a baker could receive.
When the smell of sugary goodness is coupled with the hearty scent of bread, the reaction is universal. All neighbors, friends and even enemies are compelled to join together, and sometimes come to an agreement.
One such tasty treat, shortbread, was born of a battle in 12th-century Scotland when mothers and bakers fought to call the butter-filled cookie shortbread instead of short biscuit, to avoid the ominous biscuit tax. No doubt victory was secured with the help of a few sweet and crispy bribes.
Once a morsel nibbled on almost exclusively by wealthy Scots, shortbread can now be savored around the world by those who desire a rich, homey taste as a dessert or snack.
Whether these scrumptious relics of home are baked for your favorite holiday or an afternoon treat, sweettasting breads are sure to evoke treasured feelings of home in every heart.
Bake up your own homemade memories with the recipes that follow.
A touch of sugar adds a touch of home to delicious breads.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 78
LEFT TO RIGHT: JIM FRANCO/COURTESY TEN SPEED PRESS; KAREN K. WILL
French Toast Coffee Cake
By Joy Pierson, Angel Ramos, and Jorge Pineda (photograph on opposite page)
Yields 8 to 10 servings.
1 cup vegan cream cheese
3 cups plain unsweetened soy milk
3 tablespoons unrefined sugar
1 tablespoon egg replacer
11⁄2 tablespoons fresh ginger juice
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon, divided
8 slices sourdough bread, cut into 1- to 2-inch rounds
1⁄4 cup coconut sugar
2 tablespoons buttery spread, melted
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
Maple syrup and fresh fruit, optional
1 Preheat oven to 400 F. Oil 9-inch springform pan; wrap base in aluminum foil to prevent leaking. Set aside.
2 Combine cream cheese, soy milk, sugar, egg replacer, ginger juice, and
1 tablespoon cinnamon in blender, and blend for 5 minutes. Transfer mixture to large, shallow dish. Add bread,
and let sit for 5 minutes, turning bread pieces occasionally.
3 In bowl, mix coconut sugar, remaining cinnamon, buttery spread, and flour until of crumby consistency.
4 Layer half the bread, half the cream cheese mixture, and half the coconut sugar mixture in prepared pan. Repeat with remaining bread, cream cheese mixture, and coconut sugar mixture.
5 Bake for about 45 minutes, or until golden brown and cake tester comes out clean. Cool in pan for 15 minutes.
6 Unmold coffee cake and cut into wedges. Serve with maple syrup and fresh fruit, if desired.
The above excerpt has been reprinted with permission from Vegan Holiday Cooking from Candle Café by Joy Pierson, Angel Ramos, and Jorge Pineda, published by Ten Speed Press, 2014.
Shortbread Cookie With Orange Peel and Thyme
By Joyce Ellenbecker
This shortbread cookie recipe is an ideal accompaniment for a quiet afternoon tea. A food processor or blend-
er prepares the dough in minutes, which makes it an excellent choice for any last-minute parties. Keeping the dough in the refrigerator makes it easier to slice. Yields 2 dozen cookies.
1⁄2 cup pecans
1⁄2 cup oatmeal
1 teaspoon thyme
1 teaspoon finely chopped orange peel
1⁄4 cup butter
1⁄2 cup confectioner’s sugar
1⁄2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon milk
1 Process pecans in food processor or blender for 1 to 2 minutes, or until finely chopped. Add remaining ingredients, one at a time, processing for 15 to 30 seconds after each addition.
2 Turn dough onto countertop, and dust lightly with additional flour. Form into roll, and wrap in wax paper. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
3 Preheat oven to 350 F.
4 Slice roll into 1⁄2-inch-thick cookies. Place on ungreased cookie sheet, and bake for 12 to 15 minutes.
Coconut Bread Pudding
By Karen K. Will Yields 8 servings.
1 2 cup sugar
1 4 teaspoon salt
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup whole milk
1 cup coconut milk
1 2 cup sweetened, shredded coconut
2 tablespoons butter
1 teaspoon vanilla, divided
1 cup stale 1 2-inch cubes bread
2 egg whites
2 tablespoons confectioner’s sugar
1 Preheat oven to 350 F. Butter 8-inch or 2-quart baking dish; set aside.
2 In large bowl, combine sugar, salt, and eggs. Gradually whisk in milks. Add coconut, butter, and 1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla.
3 Scatter bread cubes in prepared dish, and pour milk mixture over top. Place dish in pan of hot water, with water coming up about
1 2 inch around sides. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, or until rm.
4 Meanwhile, beat egg whites until stiff. Add confectioner’s sugar and remaining vanilla, and continue beating until very stiff. Spread over cooked pudding, creating peaks and valleys. Sprinkle with a little additional shredded coconut, and heat until meringue is light brown. Serve warm or chilled.
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Chocolate-Bacon Muffi ns
By Karen K. Will
These special muf ns qualify as sweet and savory, and for anyone who scoffs at the baconchocolate pairing, try it before you knock it. The salty, smokiness of the bacon marries with the sweetness of chocolate, and a perfect union is formed. It may become a new favorite!
Yields 12 muf ns.
6 slices bacon
13 4 cups all-purpose, unbleached our
1⁄2 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
1⁄4 cup unsweetened natural cocoa
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1⁄4 teaspoon salt
1 cup warm water
1 4 cup walnut oil or melted butter
1 tablespoon strong coffee
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 large egg
3 4 cup semisweet mini chocolate chips, divided
1 Preheat oven to 400 F. Place 12 muf n cup liners in muf n tin; set aside.
2 Fry bacon until cooked but not crispy. Transfer to plate lined with paper towels, and let cool. Chop into 1 4-inch pieces. Set aside.
3 In large mixing bowl, combine our, brown sugar, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, and whisk to blend.
4 In separate bowl, combine water, oil, coffee, vanilla, and egg. Stir in 1 2 cup chocolate chips and half the bacon. Add to our mixture, and stir just until moist.
5 Divide batter evenly among muf n cup liners. Sprinkle remaining chocolate chips and remaining bacon evenly over batter.
6 Bake for 15 minutes, or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool for 5 minutes before serving. Store leftovers in refrigerator.
Blueberry-Infused Homemade Bread
By Jonathan Sadowski
As I was wracking my brain trying to think of a way to use all these blueberries as I was sipping my homemade blueberry milk, I thought for a moment, said “Huzzah!” and I got to work on this recipe. It has a tinge of extra sweetness, and its coloring is quite unique.
3 cups all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup blueberry milk
1⁄2 cup warm water
4 tablespoons melted butter
3 tablespoons agave nectar
11⁄4 teaspoon salt
21⁄4 teaspoon (1 packet) yeast
1 In large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients, and stir until no dry spots are visible. Cover bowl with plastic wrap or towel; let sit for 1 hour.
2 After dough has risen, place it in greased loaf pan. Cover and let rise for another hour.
3 Preheat oven to 350 F.
4 Bake for about 35 minutes, or until bread sounds hollow when tapped.
5 Turn bread out of pan, and let cool on wire rack for about 10 minutes. NOTE: The baking process is not complete until the cooling process has been completed, so no matter how tempting it is, do not skip this step.
Chocolate Chip Banana Bread
By Morgan Crumm
You would think I should have baking down by now. I have been cooking and baking for most of my life, and I left culinary school with a perfect 4.0 grade-point average. I have churned out flawless souffles and stunning
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 80
Glazed Orange-Pecan Bread
By Toni Leland
Yields 12 servings.
1 4 cup butter or margarine, softened
3 4 cup sugar
2 medium eggs, beaten
2 teaspoons grated orange rind
2 cups all-purpose our
21⁄2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
3 4 cup plus 21⁄2 teaspoons orange juice, divided
1 2 cup chopped pecans
1 2 cup sifted confectioner’s sugar
1 Preheat oven to 350 F. Grease 9-by-5-inch loaf pan; set aside.
2 In bowl, cream butter. Gradually beat in sugar. Add eggs and orange rind, and mix well.
3 In separate bowl, combine our, baking powder, and salt. Add to creamed mixture, alternating with 3 4 cup orange juice, beginning and ending with our mixture, mixing well after each addition. Stir in pecans.
4 Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake for 50 to 55 minutes, or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pan for 10 minutes; remove from pan and cool completely.
5 Combine remaining orange juice with confectioner’s sugar; drizzle over cooled loaf.
6 Wrap bread in plastic wrap and let stand overnight before serving.
French fruit tarts ... and yet ... sometimes I struggle with the simplest of baked goods.
Both because I find it completely irresistible on my plate—and lips—and because I can never seem to get it quite right, banana bread has always been my kryptonite.
Whether developing my own recipes or attempting to follow one in a cookbook, something always went wrong in the execution.
Recently, with a bunch of bananas steadily blackening on my countertop, I decided to give it another go—and this time something magical happened: success!
Many banana bread recipes request buttermilk for its signature tang and acid content, but this go-round I opted for something a bit different. Pineapple juice stands in to lend sweetness, gentle acidity, and a fruity boost to the banana flavor.
Dark chocolate chips provide depth and contrast, but you could omit them or swap them out for 1⁄ 2 cup coarsely chopped nuts if desired.
I find that the bread batter bakes more evenly in a Bundt pan than it does in a loaf pan or cake pan. Be sure to grease (I use butter) and flour the pan for best results.
21⁄2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1⁄2 teaspoon baking soda
1 cup dark chocolate chips
3 ripe (very spotty) bananas
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup unsweetened pineapple juice
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3 large eggs
1 Preheat oven to 375 F. Grease and flour standard-sized Bundt pan, making sure to get into all nooks and crannies. Place pan on rimmed baking sheet; set aside.
2 In large bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking powder, and baking soda until all ingredients are thoroughly combined. Stir in dark chocolate chips; set aside.
3 In medium-size bowl, use fork to mash bananas with brown sugar.
4 Use whisk to thoroughly incorporate oil, pineapple juice, and vanilla into banana mixture.
5 Whisk eggs, one at a time, into banana mixture until well-blended.
6 Use wooden spoon or rubber spatula to make well in center of dry ingredients. Pour banana mixture into well, and stir until no visible pockets
of dry ingredients remain. (Be careful that you don’t mix too aggressively, though, which could deliver a tougher texture to the finished bread.)
7 Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake for about 45 minutes, or until cake is golden brown on top and toothpick inserted near center comes out clean or with just a few moist crumbs clinging to it.
8 Cool in pan on cooling rack for at least 20 minutes, or until bread starts to pull away from sides of pan, before inverting onto cooling rack to finish cooling completely.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: KAREN K. WILL; JONATHAN SADOWSKI; LORI DUNN;
www.Grit.com 81
MORGAN CRUMM
Bake Up Herbal Breads for the Smell of Home
Of course, man cannot live on bread alone. So add some herbs!
by Susan Belsinger
During the fall and winter months, we turn inward, seeking comfort and contentment in the warmth of our homes. We want heartier seasonal foods, and life revolves around the warmth of the kitchen. So turn on your ovens and treat your
family to some good old-fashioned aromatherapy—the smell of freshly baked bread.
Capture the essence of savory and sweet herbs in your bread, fill the house with mouthwatering scents, and savor the flavor of these easy-to-make breads.
Even the staff of life can be enhanced with the flavor of culinary herbs.
Bread dough and batters are ideal for capturing the aroma and flavor of herbs. When herbs are combined with other ingredients and baked, the resulting breads are infused with herbal essence. Fresh
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 82
herbs will provide the best aroma and taste—they have a bouquet that dried herbs tend to lose. However, dried herbs do work well in baked goods. It is good to reconstitute them a bit by adding them to the liquid in the recipe and letting them infuse while you are getting the rest of the ingredients ready. The recipes below call for fresh herbs; if you are substituting dried herbs, use about one-third to onehalf of the amount called for. For example, if the recipe calls for 3 tablespoons of fresh chopped basil leaves, you would use
1 to 1½ tablespoons of dried basil leaves, and crumble them into the liquid.
Yeast breads take a little more time to make, since they have to rise once or twice, but this easily can be done in between indoor or outdoor chores, fixing meals, or during your daily routine. I often mix up a batch of dough at night and let it rise slowly overnight in the refrigerator. Then, the next day, I remove it from the fridge, punch it down, let it rise again as it comes to room temperature, and it’s ready to bake. Most of the quick breads
Rustic Wheat Bread With Savory Herbs and Onions
This bread is fashioned after Tuscan bread that I learned to make when I lived in Italy. The addition of herbs and onions makes it a savory loaf. The bread dough can be allowed to rise once and be punched down; then the herbs can be kneaded in and the dough shaped into a loaf, allowed to rise again, and then baked. For a variation in flavor and texture, you can replace 1 cup of the whole-wheat flour with 1 cup of rye flour. If you have time, let the dough rise and be punched down twice before kneading in the herbs; this seems to make the loaves a bit bigger and yeastier. Either way, it is delectable. The second loaf can be frozen once it has cooled completely.
½ cup lukewarm water
2 tablespoons yeast
1 tablespoon honey
4 cups unbleached flour
4 cups whole-wheat flour
2 teaspoons salt
2 cups warm water, divided
4 tablespoons olive oil
¼ cup minced fresh Italian parsley
2 generous tablespoons fresh minced sage
2 generous tablespoons fresh minced rosemary
½ cup finely chopped onion
¼ cup cornmeal, divided
1 In small bowl, combine lukewarm water, yeast, and honey. Let mixture stand until yeast becomes foamy, about 10 minutes.
2 In large bowl, combine unbleached flour, whole-wheat flour, and salt; make a well in center of flour. Add yeast mixture to well and stir just to combine a little of the flour. Add 1 cup warm water and stir with a wooden spoon to blend in some flour. Add oil and remaining warm water, and continue mixing. Once most of the flour is mixed in and it becomes difficult to stir, turn dough out onto lightly floured surface.
3 Gather dough together and knead for 5 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with additional flour if sticky, as needed. The dough should be a bit heavy. Place kneaded dough in large, lightly oiled bowl to rise, covered with damp towel. If you are letting the dough rise overnight, cover it with plastic wrap and refrigerate.
4 Check to see if it needs punching down. If it has doubled in bulk, punch it down with your fist, give it a few kneads, turn it over, and either cover it to rise again, or prepare to shape loaves. Heat oven to 400 F when ready to shape loaves.
can bake while lunch or dinner is being prepared. Scones and biscuits are so quick and easy to make, my girls or I often will whip up a batch for breakfast or when friends drop by for tea.
Think about using your favorite herbs the next time you make biscuits or muffins, or start to use your bread machine. The combinations and variations are infinite, and using herbs to flavor your breads, whether they are leavened with yeast, sourdough, baking powder, or baking soda, will be a never-ending taste experience.
5 Combine herbs and chopped
onion. Divide dough in half and knead each portion, one at a time, gently flattening dough. Spread one-quarter herb mixture on flattened dough and fold it in half to cover and knead. Flatten dough again and spread another quarter herb mixture on dough, fold over and knead. Continue kneading and working herbs and onions into dough, gathering any pieces that fall out. Once dough is homogenous, shape it into a loaf. Repeat process with remaining dough and herb mixture.
6 Lightly sprinkle baking sheet with half the cornmeal. Place loaves, not touching, on sheet and sprinkle tops with remaining cornmeal. With sharp knife, make two or three diagonal slashes, about ½ inch deep, across tops of loaves. Place towel over loaves and allow them to rise in warm place until almost doubled in bulk.
7 Bake in hot oven for 45 minutes, or until tops are golden brown. Remove to baking rack to cool. Yields 2 loaves.
www.Grit.com 83 LEFT TO RIGHT: LORI DUNN; SUSAN BELSINGER
Marion’s Steamed Bread
1 cup unbleached flour or ½ cup
unbleached flour with ½ cup bran
1 cup rye flour
1 cup cornmeal
3 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup sorghum molasses
About 2 cups clabbered milk
1 tablespoon fresh minced thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
½ cup currants dusted with flour
½ cup chopped pecans
Marion Spear is a woman I met while giving a presentation in the Arkansas Ozarks. We became great friends, and I admire her for her down-home cooking. She cooks yearround on an old-fashioned wood stove, and she often makes bread by steaming it in a big pan on top. This is an age-old way of cooking bread without an oven, and Marion has perfected the process and come up with many variations over the years. Once the bread is a few days old, it works well for toast. Marion also will slice and dry the bread in a warm oven, then crumble it and eat it with milk, like cereal. Traditionally, this bread often was baked in cans, but a ring mold works well, too.
The basic recipe is below. You can add other chopped nuts like walnuts or almonds. Often raisins are added, but if you prefer, try dried cherries or other dried finely chopped fruits such as dates, prunes, apples, pears, or apricots. When using dried fruits, dust lightly with flour to keep them from sinking to the bottom. Experiment with different herbs; this version uses thyme, but lemon thyme, cinnamon basil, and marjoram all work very well. To make a savory loaf, try sage with onions. To clabber the milk, add 1 tablespoon of lemon juice or vinegar to it and stir.
1 Bring water to boil and pour into pan or kettle large enough to hold ring mold or coffee cans. Use enough water to fill pan halfway. Oil inside of ring mold or coffee cans.
2 In bowl, stir together flours, cornmeal, baking soda and salt. In another bowl, combine molasses, and clabbered milk, stirring to combine. Pour liquid ingredients into dry, along with thyme, and blend together. Stir in currants and pecans just to mix them in. Pour batter into oiled pan.
3 Place pan into larger pan or kettle with boiling water. Add enough water to come halfway up sides of ring mold or cans. Place plate or flat pan over top of ring mold or cover top of cans with foil. Put lid on pan or kettle and bring to slow boil.
4 Steam bread for 1½ to 2 hours. It’s done when it’s springy to the touch and no longer sticky.
5 Remove bread from hot water and cool for about 10 minutes. Carefully turn hot bread out of ring mold or cans and place on rack to cool. Slice and serve warm, plain or with butter or cream cheese. The bread should keep for about a week, and it also freezes very well.
Winter Squash Herb Bread
Recipe by Dan Nicklas, Fort Collins, Colorado
This savory loaf presents a pairing of herbs that is rarely seen but interestingly compatible. Adventurous cooks will undoubtedly want to pursue the combination of sage and dill, with or without the healthy dose of garlic, in recipes other than bread.
½ cup milk
¼ cup butter or margarine
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon baking yeast
¼ cup warm water
3 cups unbleached flour, divided 2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup finely grated winter squash
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh sage or 1 tablespoon dried
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill weed or ½ tablespoon dried
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
1 Combine milk, butter and sugar in small saucepan and heat, stirring, until butter is melted. Remove from heat and set aside.
2 In large mixing bowl, dissolve yeast in warm water. Add 2 cups flour, eggs, squash, sage, dill, garlic and salt. Mix slightly to combine ingredients. When milk mixture has cooled to lukewarm, stir into flour mixture to form sticky ball.
3 Add remaining flour, ⅓ cup at a time, mixing to moisten each addition, until dough becomes smooth. It will be wet and slightly sticky. Cover your hands with a little flour, turn dough out onto lightly floured surface, and knead briefly.
4 Form dough into a ball and place in lightly greased loaf pan. It can also be divided into small balls to make dinner rolls (place on lightly greased cookie sheet or in muffin tin). Cover with plastic wrap and let rise until dough has more than doubled, about 1 to 1½ hours. While dough is rising, heat oven to 275 F.
5 Place risen dough in oven and bake until top is golden brown and sides are slightly brown, 60 to 70 minutes. Check
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 84
Maple Scones With Lemon Verbena and Candied Ginger
You can use any lemon herb you like in these scones; orange mint is also delicious. Of course, using fresh herbs will give you the most wonderful bouquet in addition to flavor. However, you may use dried herbs if need be—reduce the amount of dried herbs to about 2 tablespoons, stir into the milk and let stand for 10 to 15 minutes. The scones can be prepared with all unbleached flour, which will make them a bit lighter; the whole-wheat flour makes them a bit more toothsome.
2 cups unbleached white flour
½ cup whole-wheat flour
¾ teaspoon salt
3 teaspoons baking powder
8 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut into pieces
1 Heat oven to 425 F. In a large bowl, combine flours, salt and baking powder; blend thoroughly. Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse meal. Stir in candied ginger.
2 Stir together milk, ¼ cup syrup and lemon verbena. Add to dry ingredients and stir to form soft dough.
3 Turn dough onto floured pastry marble or board; knead gently with a few turns, until it just comes together. Roll dough out into a circular shape, about ¾-inch thick. Brush top of dough with remaining maple syrup. Cut dough into 8 or 12 wedges with sharp knife or pizza cutter and place on ungreased baking sheet.
4 Bake scones for 18 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove to baking rack to cool slightly before serving. The scones are best served warm and right after baking. If you want to prepare them in advance, cool them completely and store in an airtight container. Wrap in foil
sides by pulling bread out of pan. When done, cool bread on wire rack, then serve, or wrap and refrigerate.
Herb Parmesan Bread
Recipe by Laurel Keser, Lindenwold, New Jersey
Frozen dough is a time-saver.
1 loaf frozen white bread dough
2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed
¼ cup melted butter or margarine, slightly cooled
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
1 teaspoon minced fresh marjoram, or
½ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme, or
¼ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon minced fresh basil, or
¼ cup chopped candied ginger
¾ cup milk
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup, divided
About 4 tablespoons freshly chopped lemon verbena
¼ teaspoon dried
¼ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary, or ⅛ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon minced fresh dill, or ½ teaspoon dried
1 Thaw dough and slice into 12 pieces. Stir garlic into butter.
2 In separate bowl, mix together cheese and herbs.
3 Dip each slice of bread dough into garlic butter, then into herb-cheese mixture. Place slices side by side in a 12-cup Bundt pan. Cover and let rise about 1 hour, or until doubled in bulk.
4 Bake at 350 F for 30 to 35 minutes, or until crust is golden brown and loaf sounds hollow when tapped. Remove from pan and serve warm. Yields 1 loaf.
Great Garlic Bread
Recipe by Karen Potter Morrione, Atlanta
1 stick salted butter or margarine, softened
5 to 6 garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
1 tablespoon minced fresh basil
1 teaspoon ground dried thyme
¼ teaspoon paprika
Dash of cumin
1 loaf French or Italian bread
1 With wire whisk, mix together all ingredients except the bread.
2 Split bread lengthwise and spread butter mixture over each half. Heat in oven set at 250 F for 7 to 10 minutes.
and gently reheat at 325 F for about 10 to 15 minutes. Yields about 1 dozen scones.
www.Grit.com 85 LEFT TO RIGHT: GRIT PHOTO LIBRARY; SUSAN BELSINGER
Herby Beer Bread
Recipe by Jim Long, Blue Eye, Missouri
I use a basic beer bread recipe and add my own herb blend. You can make this with a soft drink, like root beer, cola or lemon-lime soda, but the flavor will not be as complex and yeasty as when you use a dark beer. The alcohol cooks out as the bread bakes. The lavender flowers give the bread a nutty texture.
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves
1 teaspoon dried lavender flowers
1 teaspoon dried mint leaves, crumbled
1 cup sharp cheddar cheese, finely grated
12 ounces dark beer
1 teaspoon rolled oats, sunflower seeds or sesame seeds
1 Heat oven to 375 F. Combine flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, herbs, and cheese in mixing bowl.
2 Stir in beer and mix until combined.
3 Spread in greased 8-inch loaf pan; top with rolled oats.
4 Bake until golden-brown and knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Yields 6 servings.
Cheesy Herb Bread
Recipe by Sue Leone, St. Paul, Minnesota
1¼ cups unbleached flour (unsifted)
1½ tablespoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
Dash of black pepper
1½ teaspoons sugar
1 egg (or two egg whites)
1½ to 2 tablespoons oil (preferably light olive oil)
⅔ cup buttermilk (or ⅔ cup low-fat milk to which
2 teaspoons white vinegar has been added)
⅓ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
⅓ cup grated part-skim provolone or mozzarella cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 teaspoon each chopped fresh basil, thyme and oregano
½ teaspoon chopped fresh savory
1 Combine first five ingredients in mixing bowl.
2 Add egg, oil and buttermilk, and stir until just blended. Stir in cheeses and herbs, mixing until just blended.
3 Pour into greased 8½ -by-4½ -by-2½ -inch bread pan.
4 Bake 45 minutes at 350 F. Cool in pan 5 minutes, then turn onto cooling rack. Serve warm.
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 86 LEFT TO RIGHT: HOWARD LEE PUCKETT; LORI DUNN
Homemade Biscuits With Chives and Parmesan
Buttery-rich and full of sprightly garlic flavor, these biscuits don’t need any extra butter. Serve them just as they are with soups and stews, and for a nice sweet-savory twist, with preserves and/or thin slices of cheese at breakfast or brunch. At our house, we like to split them and spoon on a pile of soft-scrambled eggs. This recipe is adapted from The Onion Book by Carolyn Dille and Susan Belsinger (now out of print). You can substitute ½ cup whole-wheat flour in place of the same amount of unbleached flour for a heartier biscuit.
2 cups unbleached flour
Scant ½ teaspoon salt
1½ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
1 Heat oven to 400 F.
Dash of cayenne pepper
¼ teaspoon Hungarian paprika
Generous ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 In large bowl, combine flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, cayenne, paprika, and Parmesan; blend thoroughly. Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse meal.
3 In small bowl, combine buttermilk with chives. Add to dry ingredients and stir to form soft dough.
4 Turn dough onto floured pastry marble or board, knead gently until it just comes together, and roll out to not quite ½-inch thickness.
1 cup nonfat or 1½ percent buttermilk, or 1 cup milk with 1 tablespoon freshsqueezed lemon juice added Generous ½ cup snipped chives
5 Cut dough into 2½-inch rounds and place on ungreased baking sheet.
6 Bake biscuits for 18 to 20 minutes, or until light golden brown. Remove to baking rack to cool slightly before serving.
7 Note: The biscuits are best served warm and right after baking. If you want to prepare them in advance, cool them completely and store in an airtight container. Wrap them in foil and gently reheat at 325 F for 10 to 15 minutes. Yields about 1 dozen biscuits cut with a 2½-inch cutter.
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F LATBREAD Fiesta !
By Jean Teller
Theact of adding ground grains to water, then mixing in a bit of salt, has created simple doughs throughout the ages. No one knows when the recipe was first used—it’s that ancient. Our ancestors rolled the dough flat, and baked it on rocks, inside ovens, or on early griddles, and we still emulate this life-sustaining act with tortillas, pitas, matzo, naan, and other types of flatbreads.
Depending on the place and taste, this simple recipe may include yeast and herbs, and the cooked flatbread may be served flat, wrapped around fresh produce, or filled with meat and veggies and drizzled with a dressing.
Whatever you decide to do, make these recipes your own with the addition of favorite flavors and ingredients.
H OMEMADE
W HOLE -G RAIN T ORTILLAS
By Tabitha Alterman
Making homemade tortillas takes a little more time than buying them, but your efforts will be rewarded with delicious, nutritious tortillas that burst with fresh flavor and no preservatives. Using whole-wheat flour ups the nutrition ante as well. Making them from
scratch also allows you to use locally milled, organic wheat, if you are lucky enough to have a source for it. To search for organic mills where you live, visit localharvest.org. Yields about 10 tortillas.
2 cups whole-wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil, butter or lard
1⁄2 to 1 cup warm water
1 Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt. Stir in oil.
2 Add water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until dough can be gathered into ball. Let dough rest for 15 to 20 minutes. (It is almost always a good idea to let whole-grain doughs rest a while so the grains will absorb some liquid and soften up.)
3 Knead dough on floured work surface for a few minutes, and then let rest for another 10 minutes or so.
4 Pinch or cut dough into about 10 small chunks, and roll into balls. Cover with towel, and allow to rest for a few minutes more.
5 Roll each ball of dough into thin round on floured work surface, adding more flour as needed. Layer rolled-out
tortillas between wax paper while waiting to be cooked.
6 Heat ungreased skillet or griddle to medium-high heat, and cook each tortilla for about 30 seconds per side. It will puff a bit and form a few bubbles. Keep cooked tortillas warm in oven or wrapped in kitchen towel.
H OMEMADE M ATZO
By Jo Ann Gardner
It’s fun and challenging to make matzo and try to complete the whole job in less than 18 minutes. (This is approximately the amount of time it takes for water mixed with flour to begin to ferment, or leaven itself.) However, among other requirements, unless the flour is certified for Passover, these would not be considered kosher. Yields 4 (7-inch) matzos.
2 cups unbleached flour, or 11 2 cups all-purpose and 1 2 cup whole-wheat 1⁄2 to 3⁄4 cup cold water
1 Preheat oven to 500 F.
2 Mound flour, and make well in center. Pour in 1⁄2 cup water, and work into dough, adding more water as necessary so dough ball is barely sticky.
GRIT’s Guide to Homemade Bread 88
Call it tortilla, naan, matzo, or crackers, there’s a version in every culture.
3 Pull dough apart into 4 pieces the size of golf balls. With floured rolling pin, roll out balls into rough squares or circles as thin as possible (so you can almost see through them). Place on lightly greased cookie sheet, or nonstick sheet, and prick dough in rows with fork.
4 Bake for about 10 minutes, or until edges turn golden brown.
NOTE: These are best when hot and soft. When completely cool, they won’t be as crisp as commercial types. Store leftovers in airtight container.
Homemade Crackers and Hummus
By Annie Kelley
It’s easy to make homemade crackers. The nice thing about making crackers at home is that you have the option of making a lot of different styles—and the opportunity to make them more healthful than those at the market. The downside is the shelf life is only about 5 to 7 days, but the batches are usually small enough to freeze, or only make them for big gatherings.
A NNIE ’ S C RACKERS
2 cups whole-wheat pastry flour
1 teaspoon sea salt
2⁄3 cup warm water
1 3 cup good-quality olive oil
1 In bowl, mix ingredients together with fork or spoon, just until combined. (At this point, you can add some extras. I like to add flax seed meal, sunflower seeds, black sesame seeds, and garlic granules. Add some rosemary if you like. Add whatever flavors and herbs you and your family likes. If you put in too much, it will start feeling dry, and if that happens, you can add a little more oil.)
2 Preheat oven to 375 F. Line baking sheet with parchment paper, and then set aside.
3 Oil hands and start patting dough out as thin as possible.
4 Using pizza cutter, ravioli wheel or sharp paring knife, cut dough into squares or rectangles. (At this point, I grind a little bit of fresh black pepper and sea salt onto the tops of them.)
Basic Pita Dough
By Debbie Whittaker Yields 8 pitas.
1 package active dry yeast
1 teaspoon honey
1 1 2 cups warm water
3 4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil ( avored with sage, rosemary or thyme, if desired)
1 1 2 cups whole-wheat our
1 1 2 to 2 cups unbleached all-purpose our
1 In large mixing bowl, stir together yeast, honey, and water. Add salt and oil. Add wholewheat our, stirring vigorously for 3 minutes. Gradually add and stir in enough all-purpose our to make soft dough that pulls away from side of bowl.
2 Knead dough on lightly oured work surface for 5 to 10 minutes, or until smooth and elastic, using only enough additional our to keep dough from sticking. Place dough back in bowl; cover and let rest in warm place for 1 hour, or until doubled in size.
3 Preheat oven to at least 500 F, with pizza stone or oiled baking sheet on lowest rack.
4 Punch down dough and cut into 8 pieces. Shape each piece into smooth, round ball with no creases. Remove 2 balls, and cover rest.
5 Working with 2 balls of dough, atten them into disks, then roll out with rolling pin until each is 1 8- to 1 4-inch thick. Using cornmeal-covered peel or spatula, slide 2 pitas onto hot pizza stone or baking sheet. Bake for 5 minutes. Don’t open oven door during baking.
6 Place baked pitas in paper bag to keep soft while they cool. Repeat with remaining pieces of dough.
7 Store cooled pitas in plastic bag at room temperature, or freeze for longer storage.
5 Place dough squares on prepared baking sheet. (Depending on size of baking pan, you may need to divide dough in half and do it in 2 batches.)
6 Bake for about 15 minutes, or until crackers are golden brown.
7 Transfer crackers to cooling racks; they will crisp up as they cool.
NOTE: Instead of patting out the dough with your hands, you can lay a sheet of parchment paper on the counter, and use a rolling pin to roll the dough out as thin as possible. This will create a more uniform dough, which will allow you to square up the dough a little better. The crackers will look a little less “homemade,” but they will bake more evenly.
H UMMUS
Annie’s Crackers are great as appetizers, topped with something as simple as a small piece of cheese or hummus. Here’s my favorite hummus recipe, made with canned chickpeas. It’s easy and quick to make.
1⁄4 cup lemon juice
1⁄4 cup water
2 cans (15 ounces each) garbanzo beans, one drained, one undrained
1⁄4 cup raw sesame seeds
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 garlic cloves, peeled, or to taste
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1⁄2 teaspoon sea salt
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1 Put all ingredients into blender and process until smooth.
2 Serve as dip or sandwich spread. NOTE: For even better flavor, make hummus ahead of time and refrigerate for a while to allow flavors to meld.
Masa Flour Tortillas
By
Farm Aid and homegrown.org
Corn tortillas require Masa Harina flour, which is corn (nixtamal or hominy) treated with a diluted alkaline solution and ground into a fine flour.
F IRST METHOD
This first time, I used pickling lime (calcium hydroxide or “cal”) to make the nixtamal. Making it increases the nutritional density of the corn by freeing up proteins and B vitamins.
2 pounds dry corn (dent or flour are recommended, but field corn is fine)
3 quarts water
1⁄2 cup pickling lime*
Indian Flatbread
By Susan Belsinger
These puffy disks of bread are simple, quick, and versatile. Prepare a batch of dough and leave it covered to rest it takes only minutes to roll out a few atbreads and bake them on a griddle or in a heavy skillet. The dough can refrigerated overnight. Flatbreads and Flavors , by Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid (William Morrow, 1995), has detailed instructions for rolling and cooking them, which I have adapted here. Yields 8 atbreads.
1 1 4 cups whole-wheat our 1 cup unbleached all-purpose our 1 teaspoon sea salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 4 cup warm water
1 In bowl, combine ours and salt. Drizzle oil over top, and work in with ngers or wooden spoon. Add water, and work contents into soft dough.
2 Turn dough out onto lightly oured surface and knead for 3 to 5 minutes, or until smooth. Add a little more water if dough is too dry, or a little more our if sticky. Wrap dough in plastic wrap or cover with inverted bowl, and let rest for at least 30 minutes.
3 Cut dough into 8 equal pieces, and roll each into ball. Place balls on lightly oured surface and atten gently with hand. Using lightly oured rolling pin, roll each ball into 6-inch round. Don’t ip dough over while rolling or it won’t puff as well during baking.
4 Heat iron griddle or skillet over medium heat.
5 Place 1 atbread on hot surface for about 15 seconds, then ip. After 1 to 1 1 2 minutes, little bubbles should rise on top surface, and bottom should be ecked golden brown. Flip to precooked side. It should begin to puff up a little. Press on it gently with clean cotton towel to encourage it to puff. (If it doesn’t puff, it will still taste good.) Wrap cooked atbreads loosely in towel to keep warm. Serve immediately with butter or olive oil. NOTE: You may cook these in advance, cool them, and wrap them in foil. Reheat in oven at 300 to 350 F until warmed through.
1 Rinse corn and remove debris.
2 Place water in large nonreactive pot—stainless steel or copper; do not use aluminum.
3 Add pickling lime, and allow to dissolve, then add corn. Bring to rolling boil, and allow to boil, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes.
4 Remove from heat, and let cool. Refrigerate mixture for 8 to 10 hours or overnight.
5 Corn should now be plumped up and skins should be falling off. Skim any loose skins off top of water. Strain nixtamal in colander, and rinse.
6 Roll kernels in hands to remove excess loose skins. (Our corn came out of the alkaline solution almost black, and once the skins were removed they were a rainbow of colors.)
7 Rinse nixtamal at least 2 more times. If corn isn’t rinsed well enough, it will be bitter. Once corn is no longer wet, you can run it through a grain mill. (With our mill, within about 30
minutes, we had run 8 cups of flour through 3 times.)
8 For every 2 cups of flour, add about 1 1 ⁄ 3 cups water and 1 teaspoon salt. Allow to rest for 20 minutes.
9 Roll dough into balls about 1 1 ⁄ 2 inches in diameter. Slightly flatten and put in center of tortilla press between 2 sheets of wax paper.
10 Cook each tortilla on hot griddle for 30 seconds to 1 minute on each side. Allow to cool thoroughly, and then freeze until needed.
NOTE: These Masa Flour Tortillas are really tasty. Ours came out a cool bluish-purple color, which makes them distinctive.
* Pickling lime and lye water (mentioned in the recipe on the next page) are caustic and can cause irritation and/ or burns if wet hands are exposed to either for too long.
If the mixtures come into contact with your skin, rinse immediately. If
GRIT’s Guide to Homemade Bread 90
Homemade Crackers
By Adrienne Kane, from United States of Bread Yields 40 to 50 servings.
These homemade crackers balance sweet and salty, and taste nutty from the whole-wheat our. United States of Bread (Running Press, 2014), by Adrienne Kane, contains 75 vintage American bread recipes. The following is from the chapter “Flatbreads & Fry Breads.”
“The most dif cult part to homemade crackers is rolling them out. The thinner the dough is rolled, the crisper the cracker will be. This dough is not too sticky, and the gluten structure is not too strong, so rolling the dough is relatively easy. Just make sure your work surface is well- oured; it would be a shame to roll out your dough only to have it stick, making the transfer to the baking sheet impossible.”
1 1 4 cups (6 1 4 ounces)
whole-wheat our
3⁄4 teaspoon table salt, plus more for sprinkling
2 tablespoons honey
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, chilled
5 tablespoons ice water
any spills onto any surface, wipe up immediately and rinse area. I found out the hard way that the compounds will etch stainless steel (even though it’s nonreactive) and granite countertops if not cleaned up right away.
S ECOND METHOD
The other method of making nixtamal is by using wood ash.
It’s important that the wood ash is from hardwood, and that it’s thoroughly burned, resulting in nearly white ash. Add 2 double handfuls of wood ash to 3 quarts water.
Boil for 1 hour, and let sit overnight. This creates lye water* (also used to make soap).
Strain the precipitated ash out of the water before using.
Then, use this lye water the same as you would the water with the pickling lime added.
Follow the rest of the instructions as listed in the first method.
This recipe was originally published as “Homemade Tortillas 101” by Rachel Hoff for www.homegrown.org . Check out Rachel’s blog at www.dogislandfarm. com , and share your own food skills at
1 Preheat oven to 400 F. Arrange racks on bottom and top third of oven. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper; set aside.
2 In bowl of food processor, pulse our, salt and honey until combined. Add butter, and continue to pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal.
3 With food processor running, add water, and continue to process until dough begins to form ball. This may require a bit more water. If so, add a bit of ice water by the teaspoonful.
4 Place dough on well- oured work surface. Lightly our top of dough as well, and roll out to no more than 1 8-inch thick.
5 With cookie cutter or 1 1 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut dough into cracker shapes. Alternately, to make squares, use sharp knife or pizza
cutter to cut 1 1 2-inch squares.
6 Place crackers on prepared baking sheets. The crackers will spread very little during baking, so it is ne to place them close. With tines of fork, prick each cracker several times. Sprinkle additional salt on top, patting it lightly into crackers.
7 Bake for 8 to 12 minutes, or until lightly browned around edges, rotating pans halfway through baking process. Baking time will be dependent upon how thick the crackers are.
8 Cool crackers slightly on baking sheets, and then transfer to cooling rack and allow them to cool completely. Homemade crackers will continue to rm and crisp as they cool. Store in airtight container for up to 1 week.
Naan (Leavened Bread)
By Jeeti Gandhi
Yields 8 large naan.
2 1 2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 4 cup warm water
2 teaspoons sugar
2 3 cup milk, room temperature
2 3 cup plus 2 tablespoons plain, low-fat yogurt, whisked
1 egg, beaten (extra 1⁄4 cup yogurt can be
1 In bowl, combine yeast, water and sugar; let stand for 3 to 4 minutes, or until frothy.
2 In separate bowl, mix together milk, yogurt, egg and butter; set aside.
3 In large mixing bowl, sift together our, baking powder and salt. Make well in center, and add yeast and milk mixtures. Fold all ingredients together, then knead until smooth.
4 Cover bowl tightly with foil or plastic wrap, and set in warm place for 45 to 60 minutes, or until dough has almost doubled initial volume.
5 Preheat oven to 400 F. Grease baking sheets; set aside.
6 Divide dough into 8 equal portions, and shape each into ball. Work with 1 portion at a time, keeping rest covered with damp cloth or plastic wrap. Flatten ball slightly with ngertips, and roll out on oured pastry board with rolling pin. Pull 1 edge to give naan a tear shape, which should be about 10 inches long and about 6 inches wide at widest point.
7 Brush top surface with oil, and sprinkle with poppy seeds. Place on prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough.
8 Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Serve hot.
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JOE COCA (2); ISTOCK/JOE GOUGH www.Grit.com 91
Begging for BAGELS
GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 92
Article and photographs by Karen K. Will
Iread somewhere that “an unboiled bagel is just a roll with a hole,” and it caused me to think about the intricacies of various foods, how they’re made, and what makes them unique. Good boiled breads, such as bagels and pretzels, are soft and chewy, and they take a while to get through. Fresh from the oven, they’re shiny, and deliciously yeasty.
It’s amazing how different something can taste when it hasn’t been corrupted by preservatives, trucked 1,500 miles
Plain Bagels
4 1 2 cups bread our, divided
4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 1 2 cups warm water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 1 2 teaspoons salt
1 egg, optional
W ATER BATH :
1 gallon water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 In large bowl, mix together 2 cups our and yeast.
2 In separate bowl, combine warm water,
to a grocery store, and aged on the shelf for days. Mass-produced bagels are vastly different from homemade. Most brands sold today are extruded, meaning the dough is forced through tubes, mechanically cut, and steamed rather than boiled. This process turns out thousands of “units” per hour, but it stresses the dough. Hand-forming a bagel, followed by boiling, gives much better results.
Why boil? Let’s look at bagels—boiling is responsible for this holey bread’s unique qualities. Boiling serves three purposes: First, it sets the shape and kills some of the yeast on the outer surface of the dough, limiting the bagel’s expansion when it’s baked. Second, it gelatinizes the starches on the surface, leading to a shiny coating and a chewy texture. And finally, it activates the yeast in the inner layers of dough.
Creating boiled breads is a multistage process. They aren’t a snap to make, especially when it comes to rolling and
shaping pretzels, but they aren’t microsurgery either. After bringing together the dough, there’s shaping, rising, broiling (to brown the surface), boiling, and baking. If you have modest kitchen acumen and a little experience handling dough, you should be able to pull off something resembling a bagel or pretzel on your first try. But don’t expect to just whip these things out while chatting with company in the kitchen. Give yourself a few quiet hours to assemble your equipment and ingredients, play with your dough, and bake the finished little masterpieces.
Have fun with these recipes—add flavorful toppings, or create uniquely flavored bagels. Don’t be afriad to add in your favorite herbs, veggies, dried fruit, or spices. Freeze any excess bagels and pretzels, and when you’re ready to eat them, defrost them in the microwave, and pop into the toaster oven for just a few minutes.
1 tablespoon sugar, and salt; combine with our mixture.
3 Beat at low speed for about 30 seconds, scraping sides of bowl; beat an additional 3 minutes on high speed. Incorporate as much of remaining our as possible.
4 Turn out dough onto lightly oured board. Knead in additional our to make moderately stiff dough. Knead until smooth and elastic. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to rest for 15 minutes.
5 Divide dough into 8 equal portions, and roll into balls. Punch hole in middle with oured nger and gently pull to enlarge hole to 2 inches.
6 Place the bagels on greased baking sheet; cover with tea towel and allow to rise for approximately 20 minutes.
7 Meanwhile, heat oven to broil. Prepare water bath and put it on to boil.
8 After bagels have risen for 20 minutes, broil for 1 1 2 minutes on each side.
9 Once water bath is boiling, reduce heat. Place bagels, 3 at a time, in water for 1 1 2 minutes, turning after 45 seconds.
10 Drain bagels and then place on greased baking sheet.
11 If desired, brush with egg wash (beat egg with 1 tablespoon water).
12 Bake at 400 F for 20 to 25 minutes.
Boiled breads—like bagels, pretzels, and dumplings—turn out soft and chewy.
www.Grit.com 93
Let's Make Bagels
By Annie Kelley
I love bagels! They are one of the most versatile and satisfying breads you can make or buy. Because so many bagel shops are specialty stores, I automatically thought making bagels must be complicated, or take special devices, utensils, or machines. Nope ... turns out they are amazingly easy to make.
You can make bagel dough using a stand mixer with a dough hook or a bread machine. I use my trusty KitchenAid. You can also use different kinds of our.
BAGELS
1 tablespoon instant yeast
4 cups our (I use 3 cups unbleached and 1 cup white whole wheat)
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon barley malt syrup
12 ounces warm water
1 Combine all ingredients in mixer bowl. Turn machine to medium-low, and mix well for about 10 minutes. (This is a stiff dough, it will try to gallop your mixer across the counter, so keep an eye and a hand on it. I make sure the mixer has incorporated all our into the dough and then let it run for almost 10 minutes, kneading the bread thoroughly. You want to develop the gluten.)
2 Stop mixer and put dough into a lightly oiled bowl. Cover with towel, and let sit for about 1 1⁄ 2 hours. The dough will puff up, but won’t necessarily double in size. (To use your bread machine, follow the same instructions, except this time place it in the machine on the dough cycle. Complete the cycle after you
check it once to make sure it's incorporated all of the our.)
3 Prepare work surface (I use a pastry board or a piece of waxed paper on my counter to keep the cleanup to a minimum), and then transfer dough to lightly oured or oiled surface. Cut dough into 8 or 12 equal pieces (depending on how big you want your bagels).
4 Roll each dough piece into a ball, and cover with plastic wrap. Allow to sit for about 30 minutes; the dough will puff a little more.
5 It's time to get the kettle boiling. For this important step, you'll need a large Dutch oven or soup pot. Fill pot with hot water, and put on stove to boil.
6 When hot, add 1 tablespoon barley malt syrup, stirring well until dissolved. Keep mixture at simmer.
7 Preheat oven to 425 F.
8 Take dough balls, 1 at a time, and poke hole in center. Wiggle your ngers and twirl dough to stretch hole until about 2 inches across. (See photograph at left.) Place each bagel on baking sheet that has been lightly oiled or lined with parchment.
9 Turn up heat on water, and bring to boil. Transfer bagels to boiling water; depending on size, do 4 or 6 at a time. When water is boiling again after addition of bagels, set timer. Cook for 2 minutes on rst side. Use large slotted spoon, turn each bagel over, and boil for 1 more minute.
10 Use slotted spoon to remove bagels, 1 at a time; place back on baking sheet.
11 Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown. (I like mine a little on the softer side.)
12 About 15 minutes into baking time, turn over bagels to keep them round.
13 Cool on racks.
VARIATIONS: To fancy up your bagels, make an egg wash using 1 egg white mixed with 1 tablespoon water, and brush the top of bagels with mixture.
Before baking, sprinkle bagels with sesame seeds or poppy seeds (or any other type of seed you like).
For onion bagels, bake bagels for about 20 minutes, pull out of oven, brush with egg wash, and then sprinkle with dried onion. Bake for about 2 minutes, watching carefully as dried onion burns easily.
Like cinnamon-raisin bagels? Add 1 2 cup raisins during last few minutes of kneading. Before transferring dough to work surface, sprinkle heavily with cinnamon and sugar. Knead dough, and as you do, it will pick up cinnamon mixture. After making dough into balls, roll in more cinnamon-sugar, if desired.
The possibilities are endless, both in the type of bagels you can make and the different things you can top them with. One of my favorites is a lunch bagel topped with peanut butter and jalapeño jelly. My husband likes butter and cream cheese on his. And we both like cream cheese and sweet red pepper jelly. Use your imagination ... and enjoy those homemade bagels!
LEFT TO RIGHT: DEYAN GEORGIEV; MSPHOTOGRAPHIC GRIT’s Guide to Home Baking 94
B Bagels 94 Baguette 18 Baked Eggs With Pancetta, Goat Cheese, and Chives 71 Basic Pita Dough 89 Basic Recipe for Yeast Bread 45 Basic White Bread 15 Basic White Potato Bread 53 Blueberry-Infused Homemade Bread .......... 80 Bread Booty 19 Bread in 5 Minutes 21 Bread Soup 46 Brioche Buns With Preserved Cherries and Rosemary Whipped Cream 70 Butterscotch Peach Pie 73 C Cardamom Cherry Bread 17 Cheesy Herb Bread 86 Cherry Amber Pie 74 Chocolate-Bacon Muffins 80 Chocolate Cherry Bread 19 Chocolate Chip Banana Bread 80 Coconut Bread Pudding 79 D Dill Bread 16 F French Toast Coffee Cake 79 G Garden-Fresh Apple Pie With Cider-Pecan Crust 73 Garlic Bread 46 Glazed Orange-Pecan Bread ...................... 81 Gluten-Free All-Purpose Flour 76 Gluten-Free Banana Bread With Blueberries 76 Gluten-Free French Baguette 77 Gluten-Free Naan 76 Gluten-Free Pizza Crust 75 Gluten-Free Pumpkin Honey Spice Cookies 77 Great Garlic Bread 85 H Healthier Zucchini Bread 11 Herb Parmesan Bread 85 Herby Beer Bread 86 Homemade Biscuits With Chives and Parmesan 87 Homemade Crackers and Hummus 89 Homemade Crackers 91 Homemade English Muffins 9 Homemade Matzo 88 Homemade Whole-Grain Tortillas ............... 88 I Indian Flatbread 90 Italian Biga 58 L Low-Wheat and Low-Gluten Baking 58 M Make Homemade English Muffins on the Griddle ......................... 8 Maple Scones With Lemon Verbena and Candied Ginger 85 Marion’s Steamed Bread 84 Masa Flour Tortillas 90 Mushroom-Leek Strata 70 N Naan Cleavened Bread 91 No-Knead Ciabatta Bread 18 No-Knead Sprouted Grain Bread 40 O Oatmeal Bread 52 Oat Raisin Bread 16 Overnight Starter for 3 Batches of Bread 50 P Perfect Pastry 72 Plain Bagels 93 Pumpkin Bread 17 R Raisin Honey Pie 74 Rustic Wheat Bread With Savory Herbs and Onions ..................... 83 Rye Bread With a Starter 51 S Seeded Kamut Bread 17 Shortbread Cookie With Orange Peel and Thyme 79 Simple Sourdough 57 Sourdough Vegetable Stromboli 10 Starboard Farm Classic Maine Blueberry Muffins 64 Sun-Dried Tomato Basil Dutch Oven Bread . 65 T Turkey Stuffing 46 V Vegetarian Ribollita Soup 71 Very Berry Pie 74 W Wheat Bread 16 White Sandwich Bread With a Starter 50 Whole Grain Artisan Bread for a Dutch Oven 10 Wilma’s Ledge Curried Halibut 65 Winter Fattoush Salad 69 Winter Squash Herb Bread ........................ 84
www.Grit.com 95
Recipe index
RECOMMENDED RESOURCES
BAKING SUPPLIES
Azure 971-200-8350
www.azurestandard.com
Bob’s Red Mill
800-349-2173
www.bobsredmill.com
Cultures for Health
www.culturesforhealth.com
Domino Sugar
www.dominosugar.com
Florida Crystals
844-344-9497
www.floridacrystals.com
Great River Organic Milling 608-687-9580
www.greatrivermilling.com
Heartland Mill
800-232-8533
www.heartlandmill.com
Hodgson Mill
888-417-9343
www.hodgsonmill.com
Jack’s Country Store 360-665-4989
www.jackscountrystore.com
BOOKS
Artisan Pizza and Flatbread, Gluten-Free Artisan Bread, Healthy Bread, and New Artisan Bread
... in Five Minutes a Day series by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë François
Baking With Whole Grains
by Valerie Baer
Build Your Own Earth Oven
by Kiko Denzer
From No-Knead to Sourdough
by Victoria Redhed Miller
King Arthur Flour 800-827-6836
Baker’s Hotline: 855-371-2253
www.kingarthurflour.com
Lehi Mills 877-311-3566
www.lehirollermills.com
Marias River Farms 406-456-3236 www.mariasriverfarms.com
Montana Gluten Free 406-600-7400
www.montanaglutenfree.com
Now Foods 888-669-3663
www.nowfoods.com
Nu Life Market 866-962-5236
www.nulifemarket.com
Organic Valley Family of Farms 888-444-6455
www.organicvalley.coop
Purity Seeds USA 605-532-7333
www.purityseedsusa.com
The Urban Homemaker 800-55-BREAD (800-552-7323)
www.urbanhomemaker.com
War Eagle Mill
866-492-7324
www.wareaglemill.com
Wheat Montana Farms & Bakery 800-535-2798
www.wheatmontana.com
Whole Earth Sweetener Co. 800-824-2334
www.wholeearthsweetener.com
Wholesome Sweeteners 800-680-1896
www.wholesomesweeteners.com
EQUIPMENT/TOOLS
GrainMaker 855-777-7096
www.grainmaker.com
Kitchen Krafts 563-535-8000
www.kitchenkrafts.com
Mountain Feed & Farm Supply 831-336-8876
www.mountainfeed.com
Nesco/American Harvest 800-288-4545
www.nesco.com
Pantry Paratus
206-202-5448
www.pantryparatus.com
Pleasant Hill Grain
866-467-6123
www.pleasanthillgrain.com
Superior Clay Corp. 800-848-6166
www.superiorclay.com
The C.S. Bell Co. 888-958-6381
www.csbellco.com
Vermont Marble, Granite, Slate & Soapstone Co. 518-499-0160
www.vermontwoodstove.com
ORGANIZATIONS/ WEBSITES
www.bbga.org
707-935-1468
The Bread Bakers Guild of America (website for the artisan baking community)
www.breadexperience.com
From the Wood-Fired Oven by Richard Miscovich
The New Artisan Bread in Five Minutes A Day by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë François
The Joy of Gluten-Free, Sugar-Free Baking by Peter Reinhart and Denene Wallace
Lard: The Lost Art of Cooking with Your Grandmother’s Secret Ingredient by the Editors of Grit
Mother earth News Bread edited by Karen K. Will Healthy Bread in Five Minutes A Day by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë François
A Grit Guide to Homemade Bread 8th Edition by the Editors of Grit
Bread, Wine, Chocolate by Simran Sethi
To order these and other great titles, please visit the Grit Bookstore at www.grit.com/store.
The Bread Experience (recipes, baking and milling supplies, and a baking blog)
www.breadworld.com
800-777-4959
BreadWorld.com (from ACH Foods and Fleischmann’s Yeast)
www.thefreshloaf.com
The Fresh Loaf (website for amateur bakers and artisan bread enthusiasts)
www.ibabaker.com
202-333-8190
Independent Bakers Association (trade association)
Grit’s Guide to Home Baking 96