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Rites of Passage

Rites of Passage

In the flurry of recent ambitious development in Qatar no destination has been more hotly anticipated than the twin hotel complex of Katara Towers. Its soaring double curve is inspired by the crossed scimitars of the national seal, framing the blue waters of the Arabian Gulf and demanding attention from all directions.

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Rolling up the sweeping front drive, waistcoated valets step forward to relieve me of my bags and in moments, I find myself in the golden glow of the lobby of the Fairmont Doha. It’s a glorious space: walls micro-tiled in 24-carat gold, the floor curving swathes of ochre, amber and sandcoloured marble, mimicking dunes. Music rises from a limited-edition Kawai crystal grand piano, every trembling string visible, while above my head, one of the world’s tallest chandeliers at 56 metres is a cascade of the pearls which were Qatar’s original treasure.

My first stop is at Vaya!, an explosion of Latin American joie de vivre. Here, the open kitchen concept is taken to another level with no division between diners and the polished tables where the South American chefs, specially recruited by Fairmont’s culinary mastermind Dirk Haltenhof, are busy working. Most of them hail from Argentina, including Belén, who, when I arrive, is fine-tuning the heat of the wood-fired roaster and smoker.

In Vaya!’s ceviche iteration, succulent lobster is cold-cured with lime, salt and chilli, its bath of leche de tigre enriched with coconut and jewelled with roast corn, avocado and coriander oil. Beside it sits a dark sultry beauty of a plate of seared Spanish octopus and Peruvian purple potatoes.

One of Fairmont’s most daring ventures is its dedicated mixology lab, headed by Tiziano Tasso. To complete each distinct menu, Tiziano’s team have been creating their own range of artisan distillations, providing an impressive list of virgin mixology. I sample Iguazu, a lively yerba mate-infused blend. As I savour it, Belén arrives bearing the most magnificent grass-fed Tomahawk steak, fragrant with rosemary, ready to be blessed with chimichurri sauce and devoured alongside caramelised sweet potatoes.

Instead of returning to reception, I have the luxury of checking in from the comfort of my room. The door opens to reveal walls of polished chestnut-coloured wood and creamy marble, soft curves, thick carpets and a walk-in wardrobe. The quartz walls of the bathroom glow softly from within, illuminating double sinks stocked with Clarins skincare, the goldlined shower and an interactive smart bath. In the bedroom, furnished in pale blue and cream, the stately king-sized bed is nestled in the protective curve of a shell-like cushioned headboard. The shelves are stacked with specially curated art books and the sofa curves around a table bearing homemade madeleines and fresh peach juice. But the crowning glory is that the floor-to-ceiling windows slide back to extend the space across a full-width balcony looking out across both city and sea.

At Fairmont, there’s no better way to start a new day than by sampling the caffeinated stylings of Cafés Richard, the hotel’s coffee hub. French press or aeropress, Arabic or Turkish, from Ethiopia, Sumatra or Honduras, there’s a brew for you to go with the infinite array of home-baked pastries, bread and cakes, cold cuts and fruit salads. After agonising, I opt for a Colombian Grand Cru Arabica cappuccino to complement my eggs Benedict on artisan purple cornbread.

Fortified, I go exploring. The main pool is a stylish infinity, opening generously out seawards. The gym and spa complex occupies the heart of the hotel, offering a comprehensive approach to mind and body health. The indoor pool, a dynamic community space, is backed by an integrated climbing wall; the 82-piece gym is supported by the Pillar Fitness coaching institute, which will also lead studio classes. The spa and Hammam feature separate male and female wellness complexes. And, for those guests who want an even higher level of exclusivity, Fairmont Gold is a privileged ‘hotel within a hotel’, with executive lounges, dedicated butlers and a quiet, adults-only terrace pool for exclusive use.

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