Eating with the Season, Autumn

by Chef Robin Goldstein

Robin Goldstein, chef and author of A Taste of Ojai cookbooks, shares some savory inspirations for the autumn.

For many, the September equinox marks the start of a glorious season, filled with pumpkin carving and apple picking. For others, autumn is a melancholy reminder of summer’s end — with fewer outdoor gatherings and beach outings.

My grandmother would sing this autumn greeting every September when the weather started to shift, welcoming in the cooler days and chilly evenings.

“Come,” said the Wind to the Leaves one day. “Come over the meadow and we will play. Put on your dresses of red and gold. For summer is gone and the days grow cold.”

Pumpkin, squash, and sweet potatoes a predominant vegetables in many fall-themed meals. We always looked forward each year to making batches of pumpkin butter to last through the winter months.

Pumpkin butter contains no dairy and this version is lightly sweetened with coconut sugar and maple syrup with fragrant spices. It’s similar to a jam made with homemade or canned pumpkin puree, a delicious addition to fall mornings on waffles and pancakes. Smear on toast and breakfast breads, or add a generous dollop to a bowl of oatmeal with some toasted walnuts. And yes, you can enjoy this straight from the fridge; eat pumpkin butter with a spoon and call it dessert. It’s like the best part of pumpkin pie in a jar without the crust. It can also be added to your classic brownie, cookie, and cake recipes. Bring to room temperature before adding to items like waffles or pancakes.

PUMPKIN BUTTER

Ingredients 2 15-ounce cans pumpkin purée (not pumpkin pie filling) ½ cup coconut sugar or light brown sugar ¼ cup maple syrup (Grade A is best) ½ cup apple juice 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice 1 tbsp pumpkin pie spice ½ tsp ground cinnamon 1 pinch sea salt Add all ingredients to a large saucepan over medium-high heat and stir to combine. Once it begins bubbling, reduce heat to low and simmer. You’re looking for a frequent bubble, so if there isn’t much going on at the surface, increase heat to medium-low. If bubbling too vigorously, reduce heat to low. Cook, uncovered, for 15-20 minutes, stirring occasionally. This is 20-minute pumpkin butter, but if you have more time, leaving it on the stove for another 10 minutes or so will only deepen the flavors and thicken the texture. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed, adding more coconut sugar or maple syrup for sweetness, lemon juice for acidity, cinnamon or pumpkin pie spice for warmth, or salt to balance the flavors. Once cooled completely, transfer to glass containers and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

PUMPKIN PIE SPICE

Make your own pumpkin pie spice from the spices in your pantry to flavor your favorite fall recipes all season long.

Ingredients: 3 tbsp ground cinnamon,

2 tsp ground ginger,

2 tsp ground nutmeg,

1 tsp ground allspice,

1 tsp ground cloves

In a small bowl, whisk together ground spices until well combined. Store in a small jar or container.

A Taste of Ojai

by Chef Robin Goldstein