Eating with the Season

Summer, Eating with the season

by Robin Goldstein

Robin Goldstein, chef and author of A Taste of Ojai cookbooks, shares some savory inspirations for summer.

The concept of seasonal eating has been around, well, since the beginning of time. Before the arrival of supermarkets, we gathered and grew our own food, and traded what was available. Depending on where you lived, that meant young asparagus, broccoli, or peas in spring; peppers, eggplant, or tomatoes in summer; pomegranates or pumpkin in autumn; and fresh citrus or carrots in winter. Eating seasonally also means eating locally. The great anticipation of summer cooking; visions of eating al fresco, grilling, and sharing a meal with friends and family, perhaps more dear to us this season than ever before. But first, here’s what you ought to know about the spoils of eating seasonally.

1. Eating seasonally encourages diet diversity

Eating a diverse range of plants has plenty of benefits for our health and changing our diet with the seasons is a simple way to mix up our intake, which plays a role in many aspects of health including our mental health, digestion, and immune system.

2. Eating seasonally is environmentally friendly

Not only is seasonal produce more affordable at our local grocery store or farmers’ market as it’s in peak supply, but it also has a smaller environmental footprint, cutting down on the environmental impact of extensive transportation and storage. Consider investing in local farms with a membership to a weekly delivery of just-picked farm-to-door produce (aka Community Supported Agriculture, CSA).

3. Eating seasonally tastes better

Nothing can compare to a perfectly ripe, bright, and juicy piece of produce. Seasonal local produce is grown and sold in optimum conditions, meaning it’s fresher when it gets to our local market.

And, to our great fortune, summer screams melon, stone fruit, berries, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini, eggplant, and last but certainly not least, dozens and dozens of varieties of fresh ripe tomatoes.

Here is one of my favorite recipes to serve for an alfresco dinner or Sunday brunch. As soon as the first-of-the-season tomatoes hit the market, I collect a basketful for my favorite savory summertime foods.

Make this delicious ricotta and manchego cheese mixture with fresh herbs and a homemade crust. A store-bought crust can be used in a pinch, although taking the extra time to make this from scratch is certainly worth it.

Roasted Tomato Pie

For the crust:

1 cup all-purpose flour

¾ cup yellow cornmeal

½ teaspoon sea salt

1 stick cold unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces

3 tablespoons shredded manchego cheese Ice water for the filling

2 lbs mixed tomatoes

Extra virgin olive oil Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

1 large onion,

sliced thinly 1 cup shredded manchego cheese

½ cup ricotta cheese

3 tablespoons chives

3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

To make the crust, pulse flour, cornmeal, and salt in a food processor to combine. Add butter and 3 tablespoons manchego cheese. Pulse until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Drizzle in 4 tablespoons of ice water, pulse until the dough just comes together. Add more ice water by the tablespoon as needed. Turn out the dough and pat into a flat disk. Wrap in a towel and refrigerate for 1 hour. Meanwhile, slice tomatoes, lay them out in a single layer on a baking pan, sprinkle with salt and olive oil, and roast in the oven at 375°F for 30 minutes. After chilling, roll your dough into a 12-inch round and transfer to a 10-inch pie plate or tart pan. Fold the dough overhang under itself and crimp the edges. Pierce the bottom of the crust all over with a fork. Line crust with foil, then fill with dried beans to weigh it down. Bake for 20 minutes at 375°F. Remove foil and beans and continue baking 10–15 minutes more, until golden brown all over. Transfer to a rack to cool. Over medium heat, sauté sliced onion in 1 tablespoon olive oil for 15 minutes, until lightly caramelized. Set aside to cool. Combine 1 cup manchego, ½ ricotta cheese, 2 tablespoons each of chives and parsley, thyme, ½ teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper, and the cooled sautéed onions. Spread this mixture in the baked crust and arrange the tomatoes on top. Drizzle with a tablespoon of olive oil and some pepper. Bake in 375°F oven for 10 minutes, just to warm the cheese through. Serve warm, or room temp., scattered with any remaining fresh herbs.

www.privatechefrobin.com

Summer Ojai Magazine writer, Robin Goldstein