Destination Golf Tees up to the Table
Dining in the Golden Triangle
SPRING 2010
Vintage
Family Businesses
Naramata as a Slow City magazine • SPRING 2010
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T H O M P S O N
O K A N A G A N
THE HARVEST
PLAY MORE. PAY LESS. GREG NORMAN – PONDEROSA
a world-class destination six distinguished golf courses first-class accommodation 100+ local wineries 2000 annual hours of sunshine
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OKANAGAN GOLF CLUB
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ro m $99 ro
PREDATOR RIDGE
OkanaganGolf f The Ultimate Experience
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Alliance
OkanaganGolf The Ultimate Experience Canada
Canada
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1.800.930.4622 spectaculargolf.com
What are you wishing for? New House Renovations Dream Vacation University Education [insert your wish here]
www.valleyfirst.com
Belong. Be Valued. magazine • SPRING 2010
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Contents
17 Destination Golf Tees up to the Table
23 The Family Business
31 Cittaslow Naramata
8 Swirl
42 Tasting Notes
30 Global Perspectives
58 Book Reviews
36 Growing for Broke - Our Family Farms
60 Savour Spots
40 Sandhill Tasting Notes
62 Savour its
COVER: Pan-seared wild sockeye salmon with fresh herb hemp seed crust served on snap pea risotto and Lake Country Culinary Farm fresh vegetables. Courtesy of chef Bernard Casavant and The Wild Apple Restaurant & Lounge.
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63 Okanagan Spring Wine Festival Events
38 Canadian Terroir
52 Recipes
45 Restaurant Reviews magazine • SPRING 2010
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Contributors
MAGAZI
Gourmet Oka
Jennifer Cockrall-King A passionate culinary enthusiast and award-winning writer who lives part-time in Naramata, Jennifer shares her experience with us of living and loving her life in the slow lane of a Cittaslow community.
Ingo Grady As a professional oenophile and wine educator who travels extensively in pursuit of his passion, Ingo appreciates the talent required to compete on the world-stage. He introduces us to chef Riley Bennett as he begins his journey to participate in the clash of the culinary titans at the international competition, Bocuse d’Or.
Chef Steve Marston Chef Marston dines in the “Golden Triangle” of Kelowna’s Mission district, sampling the menus from The Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge in Manteo Resort, the Lakeside Dining Room in the Hotel Eldorado, and Cabana Bar and Grille. Marston is a member of the Chef’s Association and Bermuda’s Chef of the Year 2004.
Rhys Pender Rhys visits the tasting room at Calona Wines to have a chat with master winemaker Howard Soon about Sandhill’s single-vineyard wines and Canadian Terroir. Certified as a Master of Wine, Rhys also shares his extensive knowledge with his tasting notes on Sandhill Wines and some new spring releases.
Lisa Harrison In more than a decade of writing for newspapers and magazines, Lisa’s journeys have taken her into the imaginations of novelists, innovators, entrepreneurs, and from a French vineyard to the heart of the Okanagan. In this edition, she sets the course for spring, explores simple luxuries and gets creative in the kitchen.
Co-Founders
Chytra M. Brown
Craig N. Brown
Publisher
Chytra M. Brown
Managing Editor Joyce D. Wegner Art Director
Mark McCann Design
Contributors
Roslyne Buchanan Jennifer Cockrall-King Ingo Grady Lisa Harrison Julianna Hayes Chef Steve Marston Rhys Pender Dona Sturmanis Rand Zacharias
Contributing Photographer
Shawn Talbot
All other photos are credited
Director of Sales Rob Fukushima Account Managers Jack Kania Murray Hicks Administration Joanne Clarke Subscription Rates
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Guest Columnist Ingrid Jarrett A long-time veteran of the travel and hospitality industry, Ingrid Jarrett is the general manager for Watermark Beach Resort in Osoyoos and serves as the VP Finance for the Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association. Ingrid is committed to the support and development of culinary and agritourism in the Thompson Okanagan region through her affiliation with local producers and growers, and is currently the president of the Central Okanagan Producers and Processors Association. 6
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101B-1979 Old Okanagan Hwy. West Kelowna, BC V4T 3A4 P: 778-755-5727 F: 778-755-5728 President
Craig N. Brown
Vice President Noll C. Derriksan Grand Chief WFN, U.B.C.I.C. Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement No.7296429. Publication Mail Agreement No. 41835528 The views expressed in Savour Magazine are those of the respective contributors and not the publisher or staff. No part of this publication may be produced without written consent of the publisher.
Letter from the editor Welcome to spring! Since I accepted this position as managing editor, I have become more involved in every aspect of the wine, culinary and hospitality industries. It is wonderful to work with people who share our vision of informing, inspiring and entertaining our readers about our Okanagan Valley. My Okanagan history began in 1983, the same year Howard Soon was promoted to winemaker at Calona Vineyards. Over the years I’ve interviewed Howard for many publications and I always enjoy our conversations. Sharing a photo shoot with him in the Sovereign Opal vineyards on the Casorso farm was especially rewarding as I spent many years enjoying that view on my drive to and from home. I am so pleased that 27 years later our region has matured into an international wine and culinary destination. It is a thrill to know that our issues are now in the rooms of the valley’s premium resorts as a resource for visitors. In addition, Savour Magazine is now available for purchase throughout western Canada in select locations in Save On Foods, London Drugs, Costco’s, Loblaws, Shoppers Drug Mart and Wal-Mart stores for an affordable $4.95 per issue. As I assemble every edition I appreciate the enthusiasm and support from everyone. I truly enjoy hearing about our articles. Thank you to my lovely neighbour Irene who recently surprised me at my front door with a plate full of freshly baked ‘Marvelous Muffins’ from our last issue. Tasty, positive feedback is always welcome! It’s a challenge to prioritize what appears in these pages, but I love the fact that we are a community rich in content in spring, summer, fall, or winter! Joyce D Wegner
Managing Editor editor@savourmag.com
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by Joyce D Wegner Our Winter 2010 issue hit the stands in early January, just in time to blanket Sun Peaks Ski Resort and the Winter Wine Festival with our fresh edition. It was another outstanding event that brought together several of my favourite things: blue sky ski days, fine Okanagan wine, chef-prepared dinners, and a private hot-tub with a view from my deck. A big “thank you” to Christopher Nicolson, president of Tourism Sun Peaks and his team for hosting us for this event and Bear Country Lodging for providing us with deluxe accommodations at the new Kookaburra Lodge. Coincidentally, Globe Café & Tapas Bar is located on the main floor of Kookaburra Lodge, so deliciously convenient! Jude Brunt, one of the owners is a vegan and has helped create amazing dishes (Veggie Heaven) to enhance the menu including Portobello Mushroom with Tiger Blue Cheese and Walnut Apple Crumble - yum!
Photo: J.D.W egner
Globe Café & Tapas Bar Restaurant.
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Alibi wins rave reviews Anthony Gismondi, Vancouver Sun, July 25, 2009 “Black Hills Alibi 2008 is fashioned after the Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blends of the Loire Valley. We the love the fresh open vibrant & energetic energy of this 81/19 blend wine and all the fruit. It jumps from the glass offering citrus, honey, green apple fruit aromas with bits of mineral/chalky, grapefruit flavours. Sophisticated white wine.” Jancis Robinson “...well balanced and zesty. Good balance and beginning, middle and end. ...very good fruit treatment. Good length.” Geoff Last, The Calgary Herald “A very tasty white wine. Stylistically it veers towards Bordeaux rather than the Loire Valley or New Zealand, offering a full-bodied white with notes of almonds, lemon curd and minerals. It would go well with grilled chicken, tuna and salmon” Jurgen Gothe, the Georgia Straight “Rich and Opulent, luscious and fresh, the sixth vintage continues a tradition of inspired wine-making” Deanna Van Mulligen, The Wine Diva “…aromas of guava, nectarine and melon with floral accents and undertones of herbs, cut grass and minerals. The palate shows a different side, hints of caramel and toast, spice and citrus zest….very good intensity and a substantial, mouth-watering finish” Vines Magazine, May/June issue 2009 “Black Hills white blend has grown from being a sideline to its respected Bordeaux red, Nota Bene, to a serious contender in its own right. Sauvignon Blanc makes up the bulk of the blend, with barrel fermented Semillion adding some richness to the crisp, clean, focused wine”
Bla c k Hi lls E S T A T E W I N E RY
www.blackhillswinery.com glenn@blackhillswinery.com Phone: (250) 498-0666
magazine • SPRING 2010
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Photo: J.D.Wegner
The crew from LaStella Winery at Passa Tempo Restaurant for Dine with Savour Event.
Vegan Wine? Russ and Marni Niles have evolved their Hunting Hawk Vineyards in Spallumcheen to a premium vegan winery entitled Edge of the Earth Vineyards. Eliminating the common practices of utilizing animal based products during the wine process, winemaker Russ has bottled a selection of varietals that have impressed influential author/wine expert John Schreiner. Check them out at: www.edgeoftheearthvineyard.com.
“Timing is everything,” and celebrity wine enthusiast/actor/radio host Terry David Mulligan invited me to appear on ‘Tasting Room Radio’ just in time to promote our second issue. His weekly, chatty and informative show features the movers and shakers of the wine world every Saturday morning from 10:00 am-12 noon on AM1150 (Kelowna), AM1450 (Summerland &Penticton) and Saturday evenings from 5:00-7:00 pm on EZ Rock’s affiliates in Oliver, Osoyoos, Keremeos, and Princeton. Check it out on Itunes or at www.tastingroomradio.com. (Archive: Jan.16/10)
S poil Y our S enSeS Pull up a chair. We love having company. open year round wine shop
3303
&
old vines restaurant
boucherie road , kelowna
| 1.800.420.9463 | 250.769.4451 quailsgate.com
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Just weeks after our dinner chef Chris Von Hooydonk accepted a new position as executive chef at the Sonora Room Restaurant at Burrowing Owl. And chef Jeremy Luypen (formerly of Hotel Eldorado) is the new face in the kitchen at Passa Tempo. Chef Luypen will be introducing a ‘chefs’ table’ in May. Available for parties of 4 to 8 people, the table will feature a seven-course dinner paired with local wines.
Photo: J.D.Wegner
On January 30th, our first ‘Dine with Savour’ event hosted by owner Paul LaGrange at Passa Tempo Restaurant at Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa in Osoyoos was a sold-out success. Chefs Jonathan Thouberger and Chris Von Hooydonk served a delectable four-course dinner perfectly paired with a selection of South Okanagan wines. Olympic torchbearer Michael J. Ballingall (VP Big White Ski Resort and Chair of Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association) was in attendance, along with several other key industry-related guests. Ingrid Jarrett, GM of Watermark Beach Resort, hosted a pre-dinner wine reception onsite and provided us with complimentary suites with stunning waterfront views to put the “icing on the cake” for our very special first event.
Ingo Grady and partner, Patti Ogden at Passa Tempo Restaurant for Dine with Savour Event.
The chef shuffle continues with Robert Cordonier moving on from Burrowing Owl to the executive chef position at The Bistro in Hillside Estate Winery, Naramata. For up-to-date chef news, the Okanagan Chefs’ Association has launched a new website, www.okanaganchefs.com with a user-friendly design featuring pages for career opportunities, marketplace, member profiles, and events. Our next ‘Dine with Savour’ takes place on Thursday, May 20 at the Vanilla Pod Tapas & Wine Bar in Summerland. Local author, Leonne Wilson-Jones, Define Your Own Simple Luxuries (see Book Review - page 58), will be joining us offering autographed copies of her books as door prizes. Seating is limited, so commit to your calendar today and come join in this convivial celebration of the Okanagan’s finest wines and cuisine. A mystery Olympic gold medal winner is going to turn up at Noble Ridge Vineyard and Winery with a special meet and greet event. Owner Leslie D’Andrea is keeping the details to herself, so stay tuned to www.nobleridge.com. Mission Hill Family Estate Gallery is hosting the fifth annual Midsummer Magic Okanagan Symphony Gala on Saturday, July 17th. The spectacular setting of the winery is the backdrop for an enchanted evening full of fine wine, fabulous food and musical inspiration. For info on silent auction items and the event: www.okanagansymphonymidsummergala.ca magazine • SPRING 2010
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Photo: Penticton Art Gallery
From satisfying your palate to dipping into the colourful palette of the picturesque Naramata Bench plan to see artists working in the vineyards throughout the spring wine festival. The completed works will be presented at the Penticton Art Gallery’s big fundraiser art auction in July. So if you see an artist at work during your vineyard visits remember to check the art gallery for your chance to bid on the original. What better way to support our artists and preserve a uniquely Okanagan vineyard memory?
Glenn Pain, artist in the vineyard.
Jonathan Crofts at Codfathers in Kelowna is preserving the integrity of his inventory with a new fish traceability program. Ticketed fish purchased in his store can be traced all the way back to the vessel of origin. Customers an informed HC Savour can Ad.ainow 1 make 06/04/10 2:04 PM choice when making their purchases by supporting sustainable fishing practices.
Codfather’s tagged fresh catch.
Sandrine and Pierre-Jean former owners of La Boulangerie are opening a brand new bakery called ‘SANDRINE - Pastry and Chocolate’ in May on Dilworth Drive in Kelowna beside the BC Specialty Liquor Store. Features will include their famous hand made croissants and quiches, plus an exciting new line of specialty pastries, cakes and chocolates. The Okanagan’s first LEED certified winery officially opens on May 8th when Tantalus Vineyards in southeast Kelowna unveils its new 13,000 sq. ft. facility with outstanding views of the cityscape and Okanagan Lake.
M
Y
Y
The Wine is Chilling…
Y
...and we are excited to have you experience Hester Creek, the Okanagan’s latest wine country destination. Situated within some of British Columbia’s oldest vineyards in the bountiful Golden Mile Bench, the Mediterranean-influenced grounds, winery, and 6-room guest villa evoke an old-world sense of tranquility that take you back to a more simple, unhurried era. Join us soon!
Love what we do www.hestercreekwinery.com 12
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Nutmeg from Road 13.
Dog owners can celebrate spring wine festival with their four-legged love(s) at a couple of pooch friendly events in Oliver. Wiener Dog Day at Road 13 Winery is serving up gourmet hot dogs and welcoming all dogs, not only the wiener variety. And the Wine, Vine and Canine Family Hike at Tinhorn Creek Vineyard is hosting an educational viticultural walk through the winery’s vineyards and wine tasting on the Golden Mile Bench.
Congratulations to Jo Knight, the new executive director for Destination Osoyoos after following a three-year stint as the manager of the city’s BC Visitor Centre. “I am stoked about my new role and working with the communities of Town of
Photo: Destination Osoyoos
www.thewinefestivals.com
Jo Knight
Osoyoos is also welcoming a new face to the community with the announcement that Todd Mallen is taking over the position of general manager of Spirit Ridge Vineyard Resort & Spa. Mallen was formerly with Kelowna’s Lake Okanagan Resort where he was employed for the past 23 years and served as the general manager since 2001. Johnny’s Deli in Kelowna is the exclusive supplier for Katyrna’s Ukrainian foods such as cabbage rolls, and a Todd Mallen. large selection of perogies (sauerkraut, chicken cordon bleu, etc.). Their display cabinets have a selection of easy dinner choices like gourmet stuffed potatoes, traditional potpies, and frozen pastries (berry fruit pies and turnovers). Winston, my wonder dog, loves the large raw marrow bones that they custom cut into quarters to protect his svelte Corgi proportions.
Photo: J.Harcombe
Photo: Chris Mason Stearns
Osoyoos, Nk’Mip Resort and Rural Area A,” states Knight. Osoyoos is experiencing phenomenal growth in the tourism sector and expanding its “Canada’s warmest welcome” to visitors in every season. www.destinationosoyoos.com
www.summerhill.bc.ca magazine • SPRING 2010
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Photo: Chytra Brown
Photo: Meadow Vista Honey Wines
Paul Cecconi, executive chef for Local Lounge and Grill, won the Stone Soup Chef Competition with his Asian Seafood Soup. Over 150 people attended the cook-off at the Delta Grand Hotel and $15,000 was raised to support Kelowna’s Gospel Mission. Chef Paul Cecconi.
Sarah Esch and Judie Barta from Meadow Vista Honey Wines.
Meadow Vista Honey Wines took home the hardware at Winefest in Calgary and Edmonton, winning Best Winery at both events in the People’s Choice Awards.
Sparkling Hill Resort near Predator Ridge golf course in Vernon is scheduled to open in May. I took a hardhat tour with media representative Holly J. Wood of the multimillion dollar facility.
Photo: Sparkling Hill Resort
Congratulations to Summerhill Pyramid Winery chef Jesse Croy and his wife Lauren on their new baby son, Lucas Jullian on January 21, 2010.
Sparkling Hill Resort opens in May.
The resort has 152 guest rooms and 48 treatment rooms. Seven sauna and steam rooms will offer more than 100 treatments with many being new to North America including a -110 degree Celsius cold sauna. “The cold sauna is proven to be successful in pain management in Europe,” states Hans-Peter Mayr, president and CEO. Based on a five-crystal standard of service, guests will undoubtedly have a pain free experience at Sparkling Hill! Stay tuned for more exciting news from this hot new property. For more info: www.sparklinghill.com Savour is going to be participating in the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, so come and say hi! Or stay in touch via email: swirl@ savourmag.com or online www.savourmag.com for our updates. 14
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Discover our Gold-Winning Wines. Visit our award-winning wineries and experience the most memorable hospitality in Okanagan Wine Country.
17403 Highway 97N Summerland, BC
Green Lake Road Okanagan Falls, BC
1400 Rancher Creek Road Osoyoos, BC
Road II, R.R.#1 Oliver , BC
38691-97th Street Oliver, BC
t 250 494.0451 sumacridge.com
t 250 497.8267 sylranch.com
t 250 495.2985 nkmipcellars.com
t 250 498.6663 inniskillin.com
t 250 498.4500 jacksontriggswinery.com
1 877 433 0451 great.estates@vincor.ca greatestatesokanagan.com magazine • SPRING 2010
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Golf
Destination Tees up to the Table by Lisa Harrison
The Okanagan Golf Alliance (OGA) was the first golf-oriented marketing consortium of its kind 15 years ago. The valley’s top destination golf courses appreciated the economic benefit of pooling their resources to effectively sell the stunning beauty of their courses and championship golf experience directly to golfers far beyond the region’s borders. Booking 10,000 plus rounds of golf every season, the OGA brings golfers from major provincial centres, Toronto, Saskatchewan, Alberta, and Washington. Playing an average of three to four rounds with a typical four-night stay, these golfers are introduced to the Okanagan’s award-winning wines and bounty of fresh produce in the club’s dining rooms. Every spring as each course grooms their fairways to welcome new players, the course’s culinary teams also prepare to tee up to the table to impress their guests.
Photo: Predator Ridge Resort
Along with quintessentially B.C. interior landscapes, each of the four courses offer distinctive local cuisine prepared by chefs who collectively bring more than 90 years of experience to their respective clubs.
Predator Ridge. magazine • SPRING 2010
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The Harvest Golf Club is unique in Canada: it mingles fairways with vast orchards and vineyards. Within the sprawling 254-acre property are 60 acres of apples, peaches, nectarines, apricots, pears, cherries and grapes. Many of these fruits find their way into dishes created by executive chef Heath Cates. Indigo coronation grapes add flavour and colour to pineapple and grape sorbet and brie and grape-stuffed chicken breast. Apples, pears and cherries arrive in desserts and entrees as they ripen with the seasons. In a relatively small vegetable garden, tucked away from the main thoroughfare, grow fresh herbs, pumpkins, and tomatoes. Pumpkins may seem like an odd choice until Cates describes his pumpkin gnocchi with roasted tomato cream sauce, a dish he created after his arrival at the club in 2009. Another new dish features salad greens with sumac lemon vinaigrette, peppers and cucumber. Although his cooking has continued to evolve since graduating from Okanagan College in 1998, he stays true to basic concepts. “I’m always keen on simple, fresh flavours,” says Cates. “Almost everything is made in-house: sauces, vinaigrettes, stocks. We’ll be working on jams this year.”
“Almost everything is made in-house…”
Chef Heath Cates.
Diners at the Harvest Grille and Lounge can sit indoors or on the expansive verandah. Either place offers a lovely view of the gardens, fountain, orchards, and, far beyond, a shimmering blue sliver of Okanagan Lake. Wines by the glass range in price from $6.75 to $13. For those looking for exceptional vintages, Ryan Brown, the food and beverage manager, stocks Penfolds Grange 1997 ($570). More affordable indulgences include 2005 Blue Mountain Chardonnay ($68) and the Sumac Ridge Private Reserve Gewurztraminer ($30). The club serves Sunday brunch most of the year and during golf season the popular 9 and Dine promotion includes nine holes of golf and dinner for $55 per person.
DRESSED UP & READY TO GO! For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. We are proud to show you our 100% estate-grown varietal line up and Oldfield Series wines. At Tinhorn Creek we sustainably farm our land and create wines of merit. Our 150 acres of vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself. We will welcome you with open arms. NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN www.tinhorn.com
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Photo: Harvest Golf Club
Harvest Grille at the Harvest Golf Club
“Serving the same people two to six times per week, you have to be good.”
The Canyon Café and Lounge at Gallagher’s Canyon Golf & Country Club
The club’s culinary experience is something executive chef Tim Buckley describes as “relaxed, casual dining, with fresh local ingredients and wine.” The clubhouse has a cozy, informal dining area and an outside deck. Buckley serves 35,000 meals per year, mainly to members and local residents. That, he says, is his inspiration. “Serving the same people two to six times per week, you have to be good. So far, they love me!” He also keeps the menu interesting with approximately 18 seasonal sheets. One of his most beloved seasonal desserts is cherries jubilee. He describes it with the same sheepish bemusement of a pre-fame Susan Boyle being prodded onto stage at a karaoke party. “Caramelized sugar gets a hit of Grand Marnier and black raspberry Chambord liqueur; then swirl in fresh Bing cherries. Flambé then spoon the warm cherry mixture over Mario’s Vanilla Bean Gelato. Top with whipped cream and a crisp tuile.”
Photo: L. Harrison
Located in Kelowna’s southeast hills, Gallagher’s Canyon takes golfers to impressive heights on rocky bluffs overlooking the canyon below. The scent of ponderosa pine pervades the course as the semiarid natives spread their roots beneath the well-watered greens.
Chef Tim Buckley.
Dinner items range from burgers and salads to more artful entrees such as fiery chicken Yakitori skewers. The prices are very reasonable. “We’re not quail and pheasant eggs; we’re not upper level dining here,” says Buckley. “We focus on what the residents see as a price point and how golfers perceive their food budget after a day of golf.” The club offers two $39 per person promotions: 9 and Wine includes nine holes of golf followed by wine (a glass to half a litre depending on the selection) and a cheese platter; Back 9 and Breaky includes nine holes of golf, use of a cart and breakfast.
Desert Hills Winery located in the Beautiful Sunny South Okanagan, is home to a premiere terroir known as the Black Sage Bench. It is here in the sun-soaked desert climate of the south Okanagan that you find our 24 acre vineyard and family owned estate winery producing award winning wines. Winner of People’s Choice Awards, Lieutenent Govenor’s Gold Medal Award! 30480-71 St Black Sage Road
Estate Winery
OLIVER, B.C.
250.498.6664
www.deserthills.ca
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Photo: Predator Ridge Resort
O’Neill focesses on fresh ingredients, homemade stocks and sauces. Predator Ridge Resort.
The Range at the Predator Ridge Resort GOLD MEDAL
Pinot Noir 2006
Great wines begin here! All Mt. Boucherie wines are made with 100% Estate grown grapes from the family vineyards in Westbank, Okanagan Falls and Cawston. At over 300 acres it is the largest family owned and operated vineyard and winery estate in British Columbia.
VISIT OUR SCENIC WINE SHOPPE TO TASTE AWARD WINNING WINES AND EXCITING NEW RELEASES OPEN DAILY: 10AM - 6PM 829 DOUGLAS ROAD, KELOWNA, BC TEL: 250 769-8803 TOLL FREE: 877 684-2748 www.mtboucheriewinery.com
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The Range restaurant at Predator Ridge towers two storeys above the course below. During the warmer months, the walls around a portion of the dining room are removed, filling the entire restaurant with light and inviting an unobstructed view of the fairways carved out of the ruggedly, hilly terrain. The décor is nearly as impressive. In 2008, the restaurant was updated with espresso-coloured wood, lots of glass, new furniture, and a stunning floor-toceiling wine case. It’s quite a change from its humble beginnings.
Photo: Predator Ridge Resort
Wine Access 2008 Canadian Wine Awards
Chef Jeff O’Neill.
“They started with a little trailer on his site in the early 1990s where they sold hotdogs and burgers,” confesses executive chef Jeff O’Neill. Prior to that, the 1,200-acre property was slated to become a refuse site for Vernon until a group of entrepreneurs stepped in with a development plan. Among the transformations are those introduced by O’Neill when he took the reins in March 2008. He revised the menu to add competitively priced favourites for frequent diners and exquisite dishes with a local slant for destination golfers. There are quick noshes (e.g., burgers, salads and sandwiches) along with items such as lamb sirloin topped with blueberry port reduction and dried apricot relish. O’Neill focuses on fresh ingredients, homemade stocks and sauces, and generous portions. He often cooks with local apples and pears, but finds it challenging to secure reliable, adequate sources of other local produce or meat. At peak season, he can serve as many as 300 diners per night. Of course, supplying local wine is far easier. O’Neill recommends Nota Bene, a Bordeaux-style blend from Black Hills in Oliver, B.C. ($85) and with dessert, the Late Harvest Riesling from Quail’s Gate ($61). Wines by the glass range from $6 to $10.
Sarazen’s Restaurant at the Okanagan Golf Club The Bear and Quail courses at the Okanagan Golf Club are nestled above the city of Kelowna offering impressive views and sky-high serenity despite their proximity to the airport and the university. The 18th hole of each course enfolds the clubhouse with its wraparound patio, beckoning golfers to settle in for a drink and a meal.
Appetizers often marry unexpected flavours…
The milk chocolate and latte colours in Sarazen’s Restaurant and the lounge create a sophisticated and relaxing environment. The busiest days see executive chef Dean Hossack serving close to 600 patrons. Hossack trained at the Southern Alberta Institute of Technology, then apprenticed at the Lake Okanagan Resort with chef Dave Ryan. They teamed up again for international culinary competitions including Luxembourg in 2002 (their Team B.C. placed fourth out of 70) and Germany in 2008. Considering Hossack’s training, it’s not surprising that standard menu items such as steak, chicken and fish are served with more flare than usual. He prepares pan-roasted halibut with sautéed langoustines and a crab and prawn bisque. Appetizers often marry unexpected flavours like the spicy baked brie, which is brie wrapped in a spicy almond crust and accompanied by toasted crustini and wild blueberry shallot compote.
More than an
apple?
then you should consider the region’s oldest and largest cooking school, the Culinary Arts department at Okanagan College. We offer a host of programs, from a 10-month Culinary Arts certificate program to complete apprenticeship programs for Red Seal certification. We also offer a two-year Advanced Culinary Arts Diploma that integrates training and education in culinary arts, wine, and business administration.
To find out more call (250) 862-5457 or visit www.okanagan.bc.ca/culinary
Photo: L.Harrison
If you see a key ingredient for a great entrée or dessert, or think about making a local ingredient the star attraction in a new recipe... Chef Dean Hossack.
For events and specials, the club brings out one or both of their massive barbecues to grill ribs, steak and chicken or even a full pig on a spit. Wines by the glass range in price from $6 to $11. The club offers a wide selection of B.C. wines by the bottle ranging from $26 to $95 and some unusual imports such as Caymus Conundrum from Napa Valley ($65). The club recently introduced take-out service with a menu of 30 items. magazine • SPRING 2010
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Table Talk Harvest Grille at the Harvest Golf Club www.harvestgolf.com Brunch every Sunday year round: breakfast, lunch and dinner served during golf season The Canyon Café and Lounge at Gallagher’s Canyon Golf & Country Club www.spectaculargolf.com Breakfast, lunch and dinner served during golf season Sarazen’s Restaurant and the Player’s Lounge & Grille at the Okanagan Golf Club www.spectaculargolf.com Breakfast, lunch and dinner served during golf season
Patio at Harvest Grille at the Harvest Golf & Country Club.
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The Range at Predator Ridge Resort www.predatorridge.com Brunch every Sunday year round: breakfast, lunch and dinner served during golf season
Photo: CedarCreek Estate Winery
Family Business The
The second-hand genes of our Okanagan vintners by Julianna Hayes
Ross and Gordon Fitzpatrick.
CedarCreek Estate Winery Politics, Mines and Wines Ask Gordon Fitzpatrick why he got involved in CedarCreek, the family winery started by his father, and he gives a straight-up answer. “You could say Dad put the squeeze on me.” He’s not altogether joking. He adds, “To me this place was Green Acres.” Dad Ross Fitzpatrick views history in a slightly different light. “I gave him the opportunity. I didn’t have to squeeze very hard.” However you stack it, the Fitzpatricks have built themselves a mighty fine family business. CedarCreek Estate Winery in Kelowna is a top-notch producer of premium Okanagan wines and has twice been named Canada’s Winery of the Year by Wine Access magazine. magazine • SPRING 2010
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“They know what they’re doing.” Terry David Mulligan
Ross grew up working in his father’s fruit packinghouse in Oliver (McLean and Fitzpatrick) before obtaining a Bachelor of Commerce and Business Administration degree and becoming a successful businessman in his own right. However, he never lost his love for the land and in the mid-80s he purchased an orchard and vineyard near Kelowna then known as Uniacke Wines. “I had a vision that the Okanagan could have a greater legacy in agriculture than it had. At that time I didn’t anticipate we could have as much success with [it] as we have. It has surpassed really my expectations.” Ross was among those who responded to the historic changes of the North America Free Trade Agreement when growers were suddenly forced to rethink and re-plant in order to survive and reaped the success that followed. That’s when his “hobby got out of control,” says Gordon, and his dad asked for his help in 1996. The younger Fitzpatrick, who was working in mining then, was reluctant to get involved. “I thought it was more an avocation for him and not a vocation for me.”
“We had to make the decision to either get bigger or smaller.” - Gordon But the elder was not to be deterred. Ross plied him with items that promised of an idyllic lifestyle – a book by renowned wine critic Jancis Robinson; a copy of the movie, ‘A Walk in the Clouds’, which contains flattering imagery of vineyard life. Gordon relented. “Dad was real good at the beginning – he let me come in here and figure it out. That first year, he wasn’t around a bunch. He purposely didn’t want to crowd me,” Gordon admits. A year after Gordon came on as president of the winery, Ross was appointed to the Senate and was absent from the business for much of the time. The winery had reached a pivotal point and Gordon set about rethinking its future. “At 12 or 15,000 cases we were able to keep our costs down, but at 20,000 we were starting to feel the constraints. It’s kind of a funny production level to be. We had to make the decision to either get bigger or smaller.” They opted for bigger and forged ahead into the premium marketplace. The strategy worked and the winery has expanded both above and below ground with an annual production of 40,000 cases. Despite his father’s public image as a former Liberal member of the Senate, he’s pretty much kept to the background where the winery is concerned, but Gordon says it is very much a partnership. Decisions are made jointly in quiet consultation, and the pair insists there is little conflict. In order for a family business to work, there has to be a tremendous amount of trust between you,” says Ross. “And we have that.” www.cedarcreek.bc.ca 24
magazine • SPRING 2010
dine
with
SAVOUR at The
Vanilla Pod Restaurant
Come Join Us - Thursday, May 20 Chef Bruno and his team will present a multi-course dining experience featuring fresh, local, seasonal ingredients paired with a selection of the finest south Okanagan wines. Explore the many flavours of this edible journey with a host of talented vintners to guide you through each course in a salute to our region’s delectable bounty. Meet local author, Leonne Wilson-Jones, Define Your Own The and Vanilla on Main copy as a Simple Luxuries win yourPod own autographed Street in Summerland memento from this unforgettable evening!
- the perfect pairing of
This event is in support of the culinary arts students at food and wine. Summerland Secondary School.
Where: Vanilla Pod Restaurant 9917 Main Street, Summerland BC
When: 6:30pm, Thursday May 20, 2010 Cost: $99 (INC. all taxes and gratuities) To purchase tickets contact The Vanilla Pod @ 250-494-8222 or online @ www.savourmag.com
Savour Special Rate: To book accommodation call the Summerland Waterfront Resort @ 250-494-8180
www.vanillapod.ca
The VanillaPod Pod Vanilla
MAGAZINE
Tapas + Wine Bar
Gourmet Okanagan Style
9917 Main St
magazine • SPRING 2010
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Photo: Phil Chin
But then McWatters Bond wasn’t your ordinary child merely dabbling in adult play. By then she was already more wine savvy than most people three times her age. Not to mention she had the patience and guidance of some of the best in the business. Her father, Harry McWatters, is an undisputed pioneer in the industry and has one of the most recognizable names in B.C. wine. He was a “modestly accomplished” home vintner and wine’s charms eventually seduced him into a professional role in sales for Casabello Winery in Penticton. That was 1968 and at age 23, McWatters was embarking on a fated path.
Christa-Lee Bond and Harry McWatters.
Sumac Ridge Winery The Child Prodigy
…she was already more wine savvy than most people…
Many wine connoisseurs are dubious of the calibre of homemade wine, but one made by a 10 year old would most certainly be regarded with amusement. Even if that wine was crafted by something of a child prodigy?
The bug bit him hard and McWatters went on to establish Sumac Ridge in Summerland. Still, wine isn’t in his blood like it is in his children’s. “My kids grew up with a wine glass in their hands. I didn’t have that opportunity.”
Christa-Lee McWatters Bond thinks the one she made at that tender age was pretty good, and she isn’t being cheeky in saying so.
Indeed, Christa-Lee and brother Darren were just nine and seven respectively when Sumac Ridge opened its doors in 1981.
F ind You r Oasi s. Now Ope n! Book your Sprin g Geta way today!
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magazine • SPRING 2010
Osoyoos, British Columbia, Canada
1.888.755.3480 | watermarkbeachresort.com Ownership opportunities still available.
“I remember the first day we opened, working in the tasting room and helping in the kitchen,” Christa-Lee says. “I would notice customers with empty slots in their wine boxes and I would ask them, ‘Don’t you want a bottle of Verdelet?’”
“She told me upfront that she wasn’t going to work for me, she was going to work with me,” said Harry. “Nowadays, I’m introduced at functions as Christa-Lee’s dad. Not the other way around.” www.sumacridge.com
The siblings weren’t afraid of work. From day one, they pitched in to help wherever needed. “They literally came from school to the winery and helped with bottling or whatever from four o’clock to dinner and then do homework,” says McWatters. If they resented it, they never said.
Quails’ Gate Estate Winery Family Dynamics
Despite their upbringing, McWatters didn’t encourage his children to follow in his footsteps. “In fact, I worked really hard to discourage them. I didn’t want them living my dream. I wanted them to have dreams of their own.” They did have other aspirations, says Christa-Lee. They both went off to post-secondary school. She thought about becoming a teacher. “When we came back to it, it was because we loved it.” Christa-Lee’s return wasn’t such a surprise, but Darren’s was unexpected, says McWatters. “I never thought he’d be back. But he said, ‘Dad, you don’t realize how much it’s in your blood when you grow up in the wine business.’” While Darren prefers a quieter, behind the scenes role, Christa-Lee was a natural born wine marketer, and flourished in that role at Sumac until well after it was sold to Vincor International. Her dad’s public persona has been larger than life, but she never languished in his shadow. Recently, Christa-Lee opted to leave Sumac and Vincor and join her dad in his independent consulting business, which he started a couple years ago after “retiring” from Sumac.
The view from Quails’ Gate Estate Winery is postcard perfect even on a grey day in March. Acres of trellised vines stretch over gentle slopes leading down to the waterfront and snow dusted mountains frame the scene. Absent of any greenery or sunlight, the sight is still stunning. The buildings on location don’t detract from the beauty. The architecture, encompassing a state-of-the-art wineshop, restaurant, administration offices and production facilities, gives as much thought to form as function. Inside, they resonate of calm and professionalism, mirroring the peaceful exterior that serves as a backdrop. Patriarch Dick Stewart didn’t really envision running a winery when he planted vines on the property in 1961 and began selling grapes to the commercial wineries of the day. In fact, he was content in doing that until 1980 when he asked son Ben to help. “Ben had bigger ideas, he wanted to open a winery. I thought it was a great idea. I knew there was a market out there for local product if we could make a decent one,” says Dick. “The problem was we didn’t have the wherewithal to make it happen.”
You are a beautiful, living, breathing person with a body that needs care and attention. You are not made of plastic and you do have an expiry date. Would you fill your glorious body with harmful chemicals and genetically modified ingredients?
We wouldn’t.
Nature’s Fare Markets magazine • SPRING 2010
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Photo: Quails’ Gate Estate Winery
The Stewart Family: Tony, Cynthia (Walker), Dick, Rosemary, Ben, Andrea (McFadden).
Ben wasn’t easily discouraged, as evidenced by the fact it took almost 10 years to finally get it up and running. “It wasn’t a very sophisticated operation at first. It was just Ben and myself working out of the log cabin.” In 1992 Ben asked his younger brother Tony, who has a background in finance, to prepare a business plan for the winery as it began to grow. “I said, ‘OK, I’ll give you six months.’ And I haven’t left yet. I’m still waiting for him to tell me that it’s time to go,” Tony laughs. Working with a parent is one thing, but legends are made on sibling rivalries in business. Tony dismisses any suggestions that he and Ben feuded on any serious level, but, he does admit to some “family dynamics” that almost led to a split. “As we built the business and it got bigger, we had to divide our duties,” Tony explains. “I was a minority shareholder, Ben was a majority shareholder and because of my dad’s involvement, indirectly our two sisters were involved. So about 1999, we started looking at that dynamic. There was a big debate about whether it was going to be a group of us staying together or
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“…he wanted to open a winery. I thought it was a great idea.” - Dick splitting up. My dad thought it was time that everybody go their separate ways.” Tony thought that was a mistake. Because the business was so capital intensive, no one person could manage to run it singularly. The solution was an equal partnership that included sisters Cynthia and Andrea. The winery is now overseen by a board of directors. While he remains a partner, Ben has stepped away for the time being to pursue a career in politics. In 2009, he was elected to the B.C. Legislature as the Member of Legislative Assembly for Westside Kelowna. Dick is impressed with the mature way his children have handled the business, which has grown appreciably in a relatively short time frame. “I never expected it to get so big. I got to hand it to my boys –long hours, big vision– but it’s worked out well.” www.quailsgate.com
rollingdale.ca 2306 Hayman Rd, West Kelowna, Okanagan, BC {250} 769-9224
Global Perspectives by
Ingo Grady
Clash of the Culinary Titans at Bocuse d’Or
One such culinary talent is 29-year-old Riley Bennett, Terrace Chef at Mission Hill’s critically acclaimed, seasonal al fresco restaurant. Chef Bennett has recently earned the qualification to compete for a spot to represent Canada at the 2013 edition of the Bocuse d’Or, the most demanding and prestigious culinary competition in the world. Named for legendary French chef Paul Bocuse, father of nouvelle cuisine, this is the world’s preeminent showcase for the talents of young chefs. Only the very best gather in Lyon for these biennial “culinary Olympics”. For Bennett, years of preparation and months of focused practice will come down to two days of intense competition when he and four other elite chefs face-off at Toronto’s George Brown College on April 28 and 29. Only one of the five will earn the coveted Bocuse d’Or spot and, perhaps, go on to win the Bocuse d’Or trophy, which is a golden effigy of Paul Bocuse in his chef’s outfit. The highest ranking North American chef in the competition was the fourth place result by Canadian Robert Sulatycky in 1999; he is now executive chef of the Beverly Hills Hotel in Los Angeles. Canadian chefs Jamie Kennedy and Michael Noble are among the celebrated Canadian chefs who have vied for the top prize. In 1991 Chef Bernard Casavant, who recently took over the kitchens at Manteo Resort, was the first West Coast Canadian to wear the Maple Leaf in Lyon. Rod Butters, chef-proprietor of Kelowna’s RauDZ Regional Table, is a close friend of Casavant. They have both attended the culinary Olympiad over the years and agree the experience is profound for contestants and spectators alike. They say it has literally changed their lives. 30
magazine • SPRING 2010
Photo: James D’Mara & Kate Ryan
The Okanagan Valley is a region blessed with a constellation of star chefs including Rod Butters (RauDz Table) and Bernard Casavant (Manteo Resort), both of whom are inductees of the Restaurant Hall of Fame. But this observer loves to discover talent behind the scenes: the up and coming who will carry the region’s (and Canada’s) reputation forward.
Mission Hill Family Estate Terrace Chef Riley Bennett.
Casavant describes the contest as “a veritable blood sport of competitive cooking” with the atmosphere “raucous and highly charged.” Thousands of fans in choreographed cheering sections turn an otherwise noble culinary endeavour into an “off-the-wall, ridiculous boiling pot circus.” Sounds a bit like curling at the Vancouver Olympics. Before Riley can dream about Lyon in 2013, he must first win in Toronto. He and his four opponents will contest the Canadian title over two days, during which they will have a six-hour time limit each day to prepare four main courses. Perfection is expected and the meals are evaluated for taste, technical skill, cooking sophistication, creativity, and visual beauty. The pressure on these young chefs is extreme. Yet Riley’s air of quiet confidence and professionalism masks his stress well. He has been honing his skills with no fewer than 19 practice runs using the required ingredients. “In the end it’s about adrenalin and determination,” says Bennett. “I eat, sleep and breathe these dishes.” Let’s hope Riley will become one more star in our constellation of culinary excellence shining from the Okanagan onto the world stage.
CittaslowDayNaramata Life Slow Village A
in the
of a
by Jennifer
Photo: John Bilodeau/Penticton Wine Country Tourism
Cockrall-King
Photo: Andrea Johnson/Penticton Wine Country Tourism
“Frank” finds a home n Naramata.
Photo: Mark M McCann
A house neatly perched on the banks of Naramata.
There’s a highpoint in my front yard in Naramata where a rabbitbrush competes with a willful sagebush for the best of an already postcard view of Okanagan Lake. If I stand there too, and look south over a neighbour’s orchard, I see most of Penticton, with Skaha Lake shimmering blue and sparkly behind it. Looking north past the rolling patchwork of houses, vineyards, orchards, farms, and the lakeshore village that make up Naramata, I can just make out the bend at Peachland. Of course, straight across the lake Summerland stares right back. In the syrupy morning desert light, the lake’s west shore resembles a living oil painting. That said, at the end of the day Naramata gets the sunsets, and I’ve always been a sucker for an epic sunset. 32
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If this all seems a bit, well, unhurried, you’ll get no argument from me. That’s exactly the point to Naramata. Here, it’s not only okay to marvel at the sunrise across the lake or the Chinook stained sunsets, it’s expected. A morning stroll to your mailbox can take anywhere from 10 minutes to 30, depending on how many neighbours you run into along the way. And being on first name bases with village vegetable and fruit farmers, as well as the Wednesday afternoon farmers’ market in Wharf Park more than makes up for fact that the nearest major grocery store is in Penticton. Besides, the incomparable Naramata General Store covers basic food staples. Moreover, it sells an impressive selection of fine local wines and spirits. Plus, it has a lovely deli if your tastes are a bit more sophisticated than chips and dip and rents movies. It also houses the bottle recycling depot, sells oceans of ice cream by the cone and contains the village post office. Lastly, the store’s outdoor bulletin board acts as village news grapevine, and advertises everything from “cat sitter needed” to million-dollar real estate listings. Maybe it’s because I grew up in Edmonton, I was convinced that the only places that took quality of life issues such as good food, wine, leisure and being neighbourly this seriously were rural habitats located in pockets of Spain or Italy. Too many years of big city burnout had me convinced that we North Americans were incurable in our collective need to heap hustle upon bustle until our lives were over-scheduled and frantic. When my husband and I stumbled upon Naramata just over five years ago, it took less than a weekend visit for us to realize we’d found our antidote to big city busy.
Photo: Andrea Johnson/Penticton Wine Country Tourism
When my husband and I stumbled upon Naramata... it took less than a weekend visit for us to realize we’d found our antidote to big city busy. I can’t actually remember if it was the ease with which regulars at the Village Grounds Coffee Shop would happily strike up conversations with neighbours and visiting tourists alike. Maybe it was the point where we discovered that Naramata, a village of 2,000 people had 15 wineries to visit and handful of beaches for us to choose from on any given afternoon. The fact that the Camp Creek Station serves an outstanding local brew called Naramata Nut Brown that happens to go down really well with the pub’s French onion soup certainly made a big impression. But really we knew our fate was sealed as we sipped a rich, dark local Syrah at the end of a sun-drenched day. We sat in silent communion as we ripped into a round of wood-fired oven bread accompanied by Poplar Grove Naramata Bench Blue and Harvest Moon Washed Rind cheeses at the Naramata Heritage Inn and Spa’s Cobblestone Wine Bar. Like I said, it was a rather convincing 48 hours. Five years on, we’re still in near disbelief at how such a small community can pack in so many good things so effortlessly. Naramata is now up to 20 wineries – with a rumoured two more to open this summer. Mathematically that’s one winery for every 100 Naramatians, but Naramata Bench wines have since ascended to cult status across Canada. In other words, some small-lot releases are hard to come by, even for locals not quick enough on the draw. (In-person visits are the way to go as some varietals and vintages magazine • SPRING 2010
33
Photo: Danielle Hayes/Penticton Wine Country Tourism
Grapes ripen in their own sweet time.
will never make it to a wine store.) The steady arrival of new wineries keeps us stalking new signage up along the winding ribbon of Naramata Road. From art shows to grand openings to the everyday tastings, it doesn’t take too much to persuade us to keep exploring the incredible Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, and Semillons (among others) of the Bench. On a sunny weekend mornings, we’ll often join the crowd at the Village Grounds coffee shop, the village’s de facto living room, to read the paper and linger over a latte. This is my “treat” for having rolled out of bed early enough to catch a sunrise yoga class on the lawn of the Naramata Inn & Spa or down at the Naramata Centre beach. We jump at the opportunity to meet friends for an al fresco lake-view lunch and a wellchilled glass of crisp Pinot Blanc at the Patio at Lake Breeze Vineyards, one of our favorite lunch spots perhaps in the world. On the way home we stop by and chat with Karolina at Forest Green Man Lavender farm. Where we pick some Balaton cherries, buy a couple of fresh garlic bulbs, marvel at the hedgerows of lavender, and pet Otis, the giant panting farm dog. 34
magazine • SPRING 2010
Thankfully, the pressures to develop and overbuild in Naramata are tempered by locals who are well experienced at weighing new development with the impacts it may have on Naramata’s environment, citizens and the pace of life. Our little village even took a giant, global step in protecting those qualities that keep life enjoyable and blissfully unhurried. In November of 2009, Naramata passed a rigorous 55-point checklist and was designated as a Cittaslow, officially declaring it the second official Slow City community in North America. The Cittaslow (pronounced chee-tah slow), or Slow City, movement began a decade ago in Italy. Like it’s ecogastronomy counterpart of Slow Food, Cittaslow is a rebellion against the frenzy and dehumanization of modern life. Its logo is a snail with a vibrant villagescape atop the curve of its back. A Cittaslow Official Cittaslow logo must demonstrate its commitment to putting the quality of life of its citizens and visitors foremost through the aforementioned 55-point checklist that supports this resolve. If it does, and so far, Canada only has two communities designated as Cittaslow – Cowichan Bay and Naramata – it becomes part of a global network.
Photo: Danielle Hayes/Penticton Wine Country Tourism Photo: Danielle Hayes/Penticton Wine Country Tourism
Vineyards on the Naramata Bench.
Lunchtime in Naramata.
The movement is neither antidevelopment nor anti-convenience; it’s simply a means to protect and celebrate the artisans, the cultural and culinary products, the history and the traditions that make Naramata so enjoyable in the first place. With the little snail as our new symbol, I’m happy to report that Naramata is both young and slow, a combination that I’m sure even the Cittaslow people marvel at. I can even boast that we’re a leader in New World Slowness, and I, for one, raise a glass of Naramata wine to that. Preferably as I sit on my patio and watch another sunset languidly shedding its warm glow across the lake. For more information www.discovernaramata.com www.cittaslow.org magazine • SPRING 2010
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Guest Columnist
Growing for Broke Our Family Farms
by Ingrid Jarrett
Only minutes away from the bustling city streets farm life beckons, tempting you to purchase fresh food directly from your local grower. But once you turn into the farm’s gate, you discover that your right to ‘farmgate sales’ has vanished within a maze of multilevel bureaucracy. In September 2007 a new regulatory system was imposed on all meat production, regardless of size, risk factor or historic statistics and became law in Canada. It was the result of international pressure for the export market of food and consumable products to be compliant with U.S. food safety import guidelines as a result of mass production and commodity agriculture practices. The one-size fits all approach was implemented and made law federally, and then it was allocated to each province to interpret, implement and enforce. This means farms producing 250 birds per year now operate under identical guidelines as growers producing upwards of 50,000 (or more) birds per year. The Central Okanagan Small Producers and Processors Association (COSPPA) was formed in the fall of 2007 as a result of the change in federal meat regulations – which made it illegal for farmers to sell their products without inspection. This legislative change made all poultry abattoirs in the Okanagan noncompliant and since the upgrading required by the new regulations was cost prohibitive they consequently closed their businesses. COSPPA is comprised of the owners and operators of small farms – many of them generational family farms who produce chickens, pork, lamb, beef, vegetables, flowers, herbs, berries and additional desirous market items in the central Okanagan. The nature of production is typically small scale, producing food for families, friends and neighbours. Many farms are two to five acres in size. The mandate of COSPPA is to ensure the sustainability of small farms, and the availability of these quality food products. With ever-changing regulations and public policy – access to locally grown food is increasingly at risk. COSPPA deems that the public has a right to choose and the farmers have a right to produce. We are committed to work in partnership with the agencies burdened with the chore of inspecting the farms. As a point of interest, with all the outbreaks of disease (BSE, Bird Flu) not one case has been identified from a small-scale production farm. Sadly there is only one brave, feisty hard working lady who remains in the mobile poultry processing business in the 36
magazine • SPRING 2010
Okanagan. Peggy Thompson has invested her life savings in a mobile abattoir called Okanagan Poultry. Her mobile abattoir travels to and processes the birds from over 85 farms. This allows the farmers to grow their chickens in a humane, free range environment where the birds stay onsite for their entire life cycle, limiting outside contaminates, reducing transportation costs and eliminating the middle man. The farmer subsequently receives a fair price, as the birds go directly to the consumer from the farmer. Unbelievably due to requirements under the legislation, Peggy is operating under a transition license that she is required to reapply for every two months since her mobile abattoir has neither a washroom nor an office for the meat inspector. The small family farm is one of the foundations of our community and is a local economic driver that needs to be supported and sustained. These farms are ecologically diverse, environmentally sustainable and can respond directly to market trends. They are supported by consumers who are paying a fair price for a wide range of products such as heritage breeds, organic produce, nutrient dense ground crops, etc. The immigration of world-class chefs who enthusiastically embrace the concept of farm-tofork philosophy have generated significant positive strides in culinary tourism. Health conscious consumers are searching for a personal connection – to the farmer, the farm or the production method. The fundamental right to choose where and from whom we purchase our food is nonnegotiable. COSPPA recommends you check with your local retailer for local products – and ensure they know you are choosing local. There is a private members bill in the legislature, which, if passed, would allow purchase for personal use at farm gate, and any production meant for resale to be inspected. COSPPA supports this bill. It is critical that each MP is informed as to the support our community has to ensure they vote on the bill as per their constituents’ voice their support.
Read the Bill: Bill M 205-2009 Food Safety Amendment (Farm Gate Sales) Act, 2009 - www.leg.bc.ca/39th1st/1st_read/m205-1.htm
Show Your Support: Minister of Agriculture: Steve Thomson • steve.thomson.mla@leg.bc.ca Minster of Healthy Living and Sport (Including: meat inspection regulation enforcement): Ida Chong • ida.chong.mla@leg.bc.ca
Canyon Farms RV
by Dona Sturmanis
Imagine being able to pick up fresh, free-range chickens and eggs and pick your own organic vegetables right from the garden at a working, local farm. Furthermore, you could park your land yacht at the farm’s RV park for 2-3 weeks and “help chase chickens in the morning,” says Lesley Reid Reid runs the five-acre Canyon Farms, located in South Kelowna near Gallagher’s Canyon Golf Course. Open June 1, Canyon Farms will offer all that when they’ve finished developing their RV park. “We hope to be able to provide people with a learning experience about eating locally and knowing where their food comes from,” says Reid. “People will be able to see how a small farm is run.” Canyon Farms has offered locals fresh free-range eggs for 17 years, free-range “meat bird” chickens for 10, fresh vegetables (and dahlias) to regulars from the local community. “They’ve heard about us through word of mouth and walked over,” confirms Reid. The family knows their land well – they have lived here for 23 years while they raised four children. Farm life is beneficial for them and the people around them.
“We also print prices the customers want on labels and stick them on the birds. We can do 60-70 birds an hour.” As a result of Peggy’s mobile operation Canyon Farms gets to stay in the business of raising and producing free-range, stressfree poultry, receiving a fair price directly from the consumer, and preserving the sustainable farm gate tradition. email: canyonfarmsrv@shaw.ca
As a result of the 2006 Food Safety Act, Canyon Farms couldn’t sell its chickens for a year, but thanks to Peggy Thompson’s mobile poultry abattoir, Canyon Farms is back in the free-range bird business.
Okanagan Wine Country Tours has won the hearts of tourists, residents, and corporations worldwide by providing luxury transportation and professional guides to a selection of the Okanagan’s most spectacular wineries.
“We order our birds in the middle of April, grow them for 10 weeks and then Peggy comes,” says Reid. “It’s an ideal situation for farmers like me because you don’t have to crate up the birds and truck them to a facility.” When Reid first got into the chicken business, she says her family rose at 4:30 a.m. and trucked the birds to a production facility in Vernon before it closed down because of the new regulations. “But now, because of Peggy’s service, there is no fuss whatsoever. And importantly, there’s no stress to the birds that would affect the quality of the meat,” says Reid. “Plus, there’s no feathers flying down the road.” The process of what happens to the chickens inside Thompson’s mobile abattoir may seem like magic to people on the outside, but inside, a meticulous procedure takes place to ensure the poultry is properly processed.
AFTERNOON DELIGHT (3 Hrs) $75/per person + GST
THE SAMPLER (4 Hrs) $85/per person + GST
(8 Hrs) $125/per person + GST
THE DAYTRIPPER (8 Hrs) $145/per person + GST
All tours include:
Complimentary wine tastings, a facility tour, and transportation to and from your hotel. Group or Corporate Rates Available.
RESERVE TODAY “We kill them, scald them, pluck them, eviscerate them, chill them down, put them on the draining table, bag them,” says Thompson.
NARAMATA BENCH TOUR
Toll Free: 1-866-689-9463
(WINE)
winetours@silk.net
www.okwinetours.com
magazine • SPRING 2010
37
Canadian Terroir
by Rhys Pender
Photos: Shawn Talbot
Soon, Sandhill, and single-vineyards
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magazine • SPRING 2010
At Sandhill, all the wines are single-vineyard wines.
Howard Soon in his natural habitat.
Howard Soon, the long-time Calona Wines and Sandhill master winemaker, has converted his devotion to his single-vineyard wines into something the Canadian wine world has been waiting for – Canadian terroir. Soon and Sandhill were the first in B.C. to really recognize the approaching trend for single-vineyard, terroir driven wines. As Okanagan wine lovers become more wine savvy, they want to know more about what they are drinking – the first stop being where the grapes are grown. Single-vineyard wines give the consumer a unique link to something beyond the liquid in the bottle. There is something special about being able to drive to a vineyard, kick your feet around in soil, smell the air, feel the sun, see the grape clusters and appreciate the nuances of nature that influence the craft of winemaking. At Sandhill, all the wines are single-vineyard wines. Soon has a willingness to experiment, constantly looking for ways to extract a little more flavour out of the grapes. Sandhill has been at the forefront of experimenting with different and unique grape varieties. The Small Lots Program has an intriguing line-up including single varietal Barbera, Sangiovese, Malbec and Petit Verdot. But Soon feels the industry is only at the beginning of a journey that has taken some wine regions in the world hundreds of years to figure out. “There is still a lot to do in the B.C. industry. We are only just at the beginning; we are still figuring out which varieties work and where,” says Soon.
Already in the bottle are two even more focused, terroir-based single-block wines. A block is a small area within a vineyard. If you are familiar with the wines of Burgundy, this would be like a Premier Cru or Grand Cru – a small lot that stands out in quality from the rest. Sandhill was awarded Winery of the Year in 2009 by industry influential Wine Access Magazine and Soon is hopeful he can repeat the accomplishment in the future. But he is more interested now in leaving a legacy and advancing his young winemaking team. “I want to be there to guide them and help them learn, but I don’t want to create Howard Soon clones – I want them to find their own style,” explains Soon. Three young female winemakers are in charge of the Red Rooster, Calona and Peller Estate brands. Soon gives these winemakers the autonomy to work with the growers, handle the vineyards and make the important picking and winemaking decisions. Soon is always there to lend a helping hand and provide advice when needed. Howard Soon may be at the top of the Canadian wine world, but he is still focusing on making even better wines. You can bet his boots are dirty and that he’s out in the vineyard figuring out the next great variety or the next special piece of Okanagan terroir. Let’s see what he comes up with next. For more information: www.sandhillwines.ca magazine • SPRING 2010
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Sandhill Tasting Notes Sandhill Block B11 Chardonnay 2008, BC, Canada The new single-block Chardonnay from the Black Sage Road is an excellent showcase of Okanagan terroir. The colour is pale lemon with an intense nose of peach, lemon-custard, minerality and quality, slightly nutty French oak. The dry palate is quite full bodied, with crisp balancing acid, peach, caramel, spice, lemon and minerality and a long elegant finish. $30
Sandhill Estate Chardonnay 2008, BC, Canada Pale lemon in colour with a medium-intensity nose of citrus, stone fruit and grapefruit. The palate is dry, medium-bodied and with crisp acid and intense oak driven flavours with peach and tropical fruit and some savoury lees notes. Good intensity with a touch of astringency and hot alcohol, but great value Chardonnay. $18.
Sandhill Phantom Creek Vineyard One 2007, BC, Canada Medium ruby in colour with a touch of garnet. The nose has pronounced and complex aromas of plum, baking spice, oak, pepper and dried herbs. The palate is medium bodied with crisp acid, mediumplus tannin and flavours of brambles, sausage, pepper, oak, spice and a beautiful violet note. Long, balanced and intense. $35
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Sandhill Tasting Notes Sandhill Block C8 Merlot 2007, BC, Canada The single block Merlot is a unique wine packed with flavour and intensity. The medium ruby-garnet colour leads into an interesting and complex nose of clove, marzipan, chocolate, spiced plum and mixed red fruits. The palate is dry, full and rich with ripe tannins and intense flavours of toffee, chocolate, spice and violet. A big, silky textured wine that is delicious now, but also with the potential to mature for six to 10 years. $35
Sandhill Phantom Creek Vineyard Malbec 2007, BC, Canada Medium ruby colour and good intensity with aromas of damson plum, baking spice, blackberry, blueberry and floral notes. The palate is quite full bodied and full of character. It is a little rough around the edges, but packed with brambly, mixed-berry flavours, plum and pepper. The finish is long with just a touch of astringency in the tannins. $30
Sandhill Estate Merlot 2007, BC, Canada Medium ruby in colour and good intensity with aromas of chocolate, oak, plum and a touch of marzipan and floral character. The dry palate is medium-bodied with spice, pepper and sausage and is quite tannic with some astringency and alcohol heat. Good intensity and a pretty nose with good length and overall character. $20
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Tasting Notes by Rhys Pender
NEW SPRING RELEASES Fairview Cellars Crooked Post Pinot Noir 2008, BC, Canada For those who care about colour, this wine isn’t for you. More like a rosé in appearance this wine proves that colour doesn’t matter. The nose is medium intensity, but full of complex, interesting and subtle strawberry, raspberry, floral and spice aromas. The palate is a touch off-dry, but with a silky texture and spice, cherry cola, rose petal and orange zest. Finish is medium length. $30
Twisted Tree Tannat 2008, BC, Canada The burly Tannat grape is not widely travelled around the world so this is definitely a novelty in B.C. The wine is a pretty, bright ruby colour with aromas of plum, green tobacco and spice. The palate is dry with quite a full body and balanced acid with intense pepper and spice. The potential is clear; however the high level of fairly astringent tannins and noticeable 14.9% alcohol over powers the fruit. Can Twisted Tree tame the Tannat? $28
8th Generation Classic Riesling 2009, BC, Canada Staking a claim as one of the best Riesling producers in B.C., 8th Generation’s new release is very impressive. The 2009 Classic, the drier of the two Rieslings, is full of intensity, aroma and flavour. Baked apple, pear and grapefruit aromas lead to a slightly off-dry palate with peach, blood orange and more ripe apple and pear. Long, intense, ripe, yet fresh. $20
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Tasting Notes Laughing Stock Portfolio 2007, BC, Canada An alluring and complex nose of ripe plum, clove, star anise, marzipan, flowers and pipe tobacco. The palate is dry and balanced and quite silky with balancing medium acidity and medium-plustannins. There is more ripe plum on the palate and a brambly hike through the blackberry patch, like a combination of fresh berry fruit. Long, rich, delicious to drink now or age six to 10 years. $40
Blue Mountain Pinot Noir 2008, BC, Canada Medium ruby in colour with good intensity on the nose and classic Pinot Noir character of cherry, sweet baking spices and forest floor earthiness. The palate is medium bodied, high in acid and mouthwateringly fresh with orange, clove and tart red fruits. $25
Tantalus Rosé 2009, BC, Canada A saucy, hot pink colour; very deep for a rosé. The nose is medium intensity with cherry, floral and strawberry notes and some dried herb, citrus and caramel. The palate is dry and quite full for a rosé with high acid, orange, grapefruit, floral, raspberry and spice with the alcohol a touch hot. This is a turbocharged wine, as big and full as you get for rosé. $22
Robin Ridge Chardonnay 2008, BC, Canada The Similkameen has a history of producing grapes for some of the best Chardonnay of B.C. The Robin Ridge 2008 is medium-plus intensity with aromas of banana, tropical fruit, lemon and oak. The palate is dry and quite full with stone fruit and hints of lees and malolactic buttery notes and just a touch hot on the alcohol. For those who like the richer, fuller, bigger style of Chardonnay this is for you. $19
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Tasting Notes Van Westen Vineyards Viognier 2008, BC, Canada Medium lemon colour with a beautiful aromatic nose of honeysuckle, flowers, apricot, peach and a touch of lees. The palate is dry and quite full and viscous with intense peach, apricot, spice and some intriguing minerality with good length. A touch of alcohol heat but otherwise a very good example of what makes Viognier so popular. $25
La Stella Moscato d’Osoyoos, BC, Canada Very pale lemon in colour with a slight spritz of bubbles. The nose is classic Moscato d’Asti style with intense floral and tropical fruit as well as pear, peach and grapefruit. The off-dry and slightly spritzy palate has nice intensity and pear, spice, floral and citrus notes, but falls a little short on the length. $25 (500 ml)
Inniskillin Discovery Series Marsanne-Roussanne 2008, BC, Canada Inniskillin is a pioneer of unique varieties and the Marsanne-Roussanne is becoming increasingly popular. Pale lemon in colour with flavours focused in the earthy realm including nut, earth, lees and then overlaid with lemon, pear and stone fruit. Quite a complex nose. The palate is dry, medium-bodied with crisp acid, pear, citrus and peach with good intensity and intrigue. $25
Gray Monk Odyssey White Brut 2007, BC, Canada Medium lemon in colour with a fine bead of bubbles. The nose on this Riesling and Chardonnay blend is only medium intensity, but an interesting mix of peach, apple, pear, floral and slight savoury yeast notes. The palate is slightly off-dry with very high refreshing acid and flavours of lemon, peach and honeysuckle. A crisp, fresh style with good length. $27
White Bear Pinot Blanc 2008, BC, Canada A wine with a good cause and also a very tasty drink. Pale lemon in colour and medium intensity with aromas of apple peel, pear, passionfruit and a Sauvignon Blanc like greenness. The palate is slightly off-dry, but nicely balanced with acidity and has good intense flavours of peach and citrus and good length. Great value. $13
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not actual bottle image
Restaurant Review The Golden Triangle of Dining by Chef Steve Marston
The chic Mission district of Kelowna now boasts an embarrassment of riches in the culinary world with three awardwinning chefs taking charge in restaurants that are an easy stroll from each other. Do their dining rooms deliver the gems? Wild Apple Restaurant & Lounge/Manteo Resort.
The Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge at Manteo Waterfront Resort It was an announcement that rocked the Okanagan’s culinary scene when BC Restaurant Hall of Fame member, chef Bernard Casavant confirmed that after years of exemplary service he was leaving the helm of The Sonora Room Restaurant at Burrowing Owl Winery in Oliver. While South Okanagan residents were mourning the loss of their beloved chef, Heather Schroeter, general manager of Manteo Waterfront Resort could barely contain her excitement:
she knew that Casavant had accepted the position as the executive chef at The Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge. Chef Bernard has christened the new menu for the Wild Apple Restaurant as “wine country cuisine.” He defines this as “one that is rooted in the traditions of the past, with a modern twist, lots of great food and wine that sparks good times and builds memories.” A perfect fit for the hotel with its tasteful dining room, large waterfront outdoor patio and cozy lounge. magazine • SPRING 2010
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The expansive open foyer of Manteo Resort is a welcoming beginning to the dining experience. Before even entering the restaurant, a friendly hostess greets me with three options. “Would I like a quiet table away from the crowd, or a table in the lounge area, maybe to watch some sports or a booth close to the throng and buzz of the kitchen?” I go for option three. My view is partially obscured with glass paneling, but still tempts me with sneak peeks of the dishes at they reach the final stages of presentation. My immediate good mood has just elevated!
The soup has a supple creamy consistency with a complexity of delicate farm fresh flavours. It leaves you wanting more. The bright spring apple green tones incorporated throughout the room provides a crisp and clean look to the dining room with chic interior design elements set in geometric designs that are reflected in the furniture, the paneling, and the light fixtures. With an entire feature wall made of glass to capture the spectacular waterfront view, the room has an open quality that extends to the friendliness of the service staff.
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The Wild Apple restaurant features an enticing $35.00 table d’hôte menu, a selection of two appetizers, three entrees and two desserts, some of the items from the regular menu. This is a tremendous value that I cannot ignore. Within minutes of placing my order a classy simple amuse bouche appears. A perfect little whimsy, blanched Brussels sprout leaves tossed in truffle oil with two small medallions of tuna topped with the merest hint of zesty citrus salt –a delectable tease for my appetite. My choice of See Ya Later Ranch’s Riesling with its crisp orchard nuances soften to perfection as I dip my spoon into roasted carrot brie soup, herb crème fraiche, and fried carrot chip garnish. The soup has a supple creamy consistency with a complexity of delicate farm fresh flavours. It leaves you wanting more. Poplar Grove Winery’s Monster Merlot is just that big and full of dark berries and rich chocolate bursting from the glass. The Gold Medal Winner at the 2009 All Canadian Wine Championships easily wins my vote when paired with chef Bernard’s crispy duck leg confit, (one of my favourite dishes) with frisse watercress salad and two mustard dressing balsamic essence. This is exceptional: cooked to its succulent best and then, just to kick it up a notch, the duck leg is pan seared to crisp up the skin. The simplicity of the salad and the dressings allow the duck to have centre stage on this delightful plate.
I take some advice for my next wine and can’t resist the Thorn Clark Terra Barossa Shiraz. I am not disappointed. This full-bodied foreigner provides a pleasing balance of intensity to my palate as I slice easily into my Espresso braised beef short ribs accompanied by pistachio whipped potatoes, and caramelized carrots. What’s not to like about something that has been slow braised for hours in a rich luscious jus where the flavours pounce at you from the plate?
Wild Apple Restaurant & Lounge/Manteo Resort.
Enjoying every morsel, I can’t believe it’s time for dessert already. Keeping with the table d’hôte I select the organic gala apple tatin with buttermilk-spiced ice cream, whiskey caramel sauce and apple cider glaze. The presentation, like every course this evening, is impressive and the flavours do not disappoint. In addition to Chef Bernard’s long career of culinary accomplishments he feels strongly about mentoring young talent and inspiring young chefs to fulfill their dreams. This is very apparent with this dining experience as, even though Chef Bernard has the evening off, I can taste talent and passion in every dish.
Codfather’s only stocks wild natural prawns with no added chemicals, colours or preservatives, including BC Spot Prawns and striped Prawns, and Green Tiger Prawns. Ask about our large range of appetizers made instore!
A La Carte: $$ Wild Apple Restaurant & Lounge Manteo Resort Waterfront Hotel & Villas - www.manteo.com 3762 Lakeshore Road, Kelowna, BC. 250-860-1031
Chef Bernard Casavant.
2355 Gordon Drive Guisachan Village • Kelowna
(250) 763-FISH (3474) www.codfathers.ca A proud member of the Ocean Wise program.
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Cabana Bar and Grille Cabana Bar and Grille opened in Kelowna’s swish Mission District in June 2008. Located within an easy stroll of local beaches and public marinas, the name is a natural fit to this trendy nauticaloriented urban landscape. Its wraparound patio is a bustling “seen and be seen” scene during the warmer months while the sophisticated interior design attracts a bevy of eclectic diners who enjoy the convivial atmosphere during our cooler seasons. Every time I dine at Cabana I look forward to seeing what resident celebrity chef/owner (Food Network & CTV) Ned Bell has at work on the menu. Even though it’s a busy Friday evening, I am warmly welcomed at the door and escorted to a very small table in the centre of the dining room where there is a great view of the open plan kitchen. The large sumptuous dark leather booths are already populated with diners, from families celebrating together to ladies reconnecting or to couples sharing dishes and lively conversations. The hostess advises me that reservations are typically required for the booths on busy evenings, especially weekends. The Cabana vision to become a family friendly restaurant with a sophisticated flare is evident in the details of the interior décor. Bold vibrant colours, inviting artwork, comfortable seating areas, a view of the kitchen area with an expansive bar to handle guest overflow and large picture windows have provided a breath of fresh air to culinary Kelowna. Upbeat electronic musical lends a pleasing auditory environment to the dining experience.
My server begins by explaining Cabana’s tribute to Canadian regional cuisine with a ‘Go Canada Go’ Olympic menu. Six different provinces are represented by Nova Scotia lobster ‘Mac ‘n Cheese’, Quebec tortiere, Nunavut Muskox burger, Alberta bison tenderloin, British Columbia sockeye salmon and a Saskatchewan wild rice buttered tart. This Olympic menu is indicative of the style of specials you will find with each visit.
…I look forward to seeing what celebrity/chef Ned Bell has at work on the menu. In addition to my server’s well-informed presentation of the specials, I am also handed a wine sheet listing seven Okanagan wineries with the option to try wine by the glass or bottle. All great value from $6 a glass to $35 a bottle and if you’re an oenophile looking to indulge, Cabana has a tremendous wine cellar locked away behind a glass wall with a James Bond style biometric lock on the door. Cabana’s menu is ingredient driven with a seasonal focus celebrating locally grown and sourced products in support of Ned Bell’s motto, “Globally Inspired, Locally Created”. After thoroughly examining the menu I appreciate that Chef Bell has created a balance of dishes that will satisfy even the choosiest of clientele.
Cabana Bar & Grille. 48
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I decide to sample the tuna tataki and the crispy fried baby calamari. The tuna is incredibly tender, served on crunchy Asian slaw drizzled with both maple miso vinaigrette and a wasabi lime mayo. Both sauces compliment the dish very well. Appearing a little crowded on the small plate it disappears quickly as it is very friendly to my taste buds. The calamari, cut in lovely thick slices, is melt-in-your-mouth succulent and very flavourful with a hint of curry. The citrus cucumber and spicy marinara dips balance the dish nicely. Le Vieux Pin’s “Le Petite” a blend of Viognier, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc is a wonderful balance that enhances every bite of these coastal flavours. My entrée is Alberta Black Angus strip loin grilled over an open flame, cooked and rested perfectly. I opt for the caramelized shallot and green peppercorn butter, with golden beets, roasted parsnips and baby red potatoes. Oliver’s Road 13 Winery’s ‘Honest John’s’ is a blend of Merlot, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon that provides a lovely nuance to the flavourful combination of beef and root vegetables.
The regular dessert menu is a tempting selection of goodies at an irresistible value of $5 each. So I surrender to my sweet tooth and select a chocolate mousse as well as the Olympic special butter tart with Saskatoon berry compote and maple ice cream. Both dishes arrive in a playful presentation and the wild rice pastry of the tart is very light, offering a delicate finish to a satisfying meal. After 9 pm the atmosphere comes alive as the music volume increases with the appearance of more bar traffic generating a pleasing cosmopolitan buzz. The lounge next door to the dining area offers a perfect scenario for a nightcap if you’re reluctant to put an end to your evening when dinner is done.
A La Carte - $ Cabana Bar and Grille - www.cabanagrille.com 3799 Lakeshore Rd, Kelowna B.C. V1W 3K5 250-763-1955
Lakeside Dining Room, Hotel Eldorado When Countess Bubna Latite of Austria built Eldorado Arms in 1926 I wonder if she ever dreamt that one day an awarding winning chef such as Michael Lyon would be taking charge of her kitchen? The Hotel Eldorado has come a long way from feeding ranchers 85 years ago. It has evolved into one of the most popular culinary destinations in Kelowna. One of the rare historical inns in the Okanagan, The “El” strives to balance old-world elegance with casual sophistication. Executive chef Michael Lyon’s new menu is poised to maintain that balance, offering local seasonal dishes with a cosmopolitan flare. Set along the shores of Okanagan Lake, the hotel’s long narrow dining room offers an outstanding waterfront view with retractable windows that open up onto their boardwalk for patio dining during the warm seasons. Relaxing this close to the lake with a cocktail in your hand inspires visions of the Riviera, especially with a nautical theme running throughout the property. I arrive after the first seating rush of the evening is over. Following a discussion of the menu and specials with my waiter I pick an intriguing appetizer of scallops as well as the warm Camembert to start. I decide to pair these dishes with Mission Hill Pinot Grigio. The seared bay scallops arrive and my intrigue is answered.
Waterfront dining at the Hotel Eldorado.
The scallops are perched upon baby roasted potatoes like three little mushrooms, side by side with a pink grapefruit butter sauce and balsamic reduction, very tastefully arranged, with welcoming flavours. The Pinot Grigio is the right choice with lovely tropical bouquet and a clean finish that enhances every bite of this savory dish.
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The Camembert is surrounded by bread sticks and flat bread resting on mixed lettuce leaves along with a fruit coulis and a luscious cut strawberry; however the lettuce is not dressed and the Camembert would have benefited by being a touch warmer. This could be a great sharing plate. My half rack of lamb entrée complete with Horseradish demiglaze and fresh apple mint salsa is tempting. The salsa is beautifully done with great knife work for the fine brunoise. The roasted cherry tomatoes, broccolini and mashed potato are neatly presented with the flavours bursting through. The lamb is a fraction under done, but is still very enjoyable. The Mission Hill Shiraz with its great structure and fine tannins stands up favourably to the gamey qualities of the rare lamb and the depth of the tangy roasted tomatoes. I also sample the catch of the day: grilled Mahi Mahi. Line caught off the shores of Hawaii, this tropical dish is accompanied by sautéed Asian slaw, whipped Yukon gold potatoes, wasabi aioli and strawberry bruschetta. It is picture perfect on the plate with punchy overtones in flavour. This dish (unfortunately) is so underdone that it returns to the kitchen. Such a shame as it was very appealing both visually and through the unique combination of ingredients.
“IF YOU DON’T EVER GET CAUGHT BLUFFING, YOU ALMOST CERTAINLY DON’T BLUFF ENOUGH.” ANONYMOUS
With room for coffee and dessert I indulge in an apple tart. It is a good size, served warm with butterscotch sauce and Crème Anglaise with a topping of vanilla bean ice cream. It is a successful blend of components for my discerning sweet tooth. As I am sipping on some excellent coffee I am pleasantly surprised by two very large, delicious, chocolatecoated strawberries that accompany my bill. (Quite a wow factor.) Chef Lyon is facing the early challenges of Perfect patio dining at the Hotel Eldorado. training his staff at the front and the back of house. The new menu is interesting, and has some flair and a good use of ingredients. Overall the dishes were very nicely presented and balanced. I anticipate under the continued direction of executive chef Michael Lyon there will be inevitable improvements that will restore the Lakeside Dining Room to its legacy of superior cuisine. Gold Plate Award: Created in 2003 to support the Canadian Olympian through the “Road to Excellence Initiative’ and subsequent “Own the Podium” program, this extraordinary annual fundraising event brings talented chefs together with our country’s top athletes from across the country to compete for the title of “Best Chef In Canada”. Chef Lyon earned his Gold Medal Plate in Calgary.
A La Carte - $$$
S EVEN D EUCE 2008
ANNOUNCES OUR LATEST RELEASE: Seven Deuce – a winning Shiraz/Cab blend at a popular price. Purchase online, at Waterfront Wines, or by the glass at the Rotten Grape, Kelowna. www.aceswine.ca 13.7% alc/vol. - 750ml - Red Wine / Vin Rouge Product of Canada / Produit du Canada
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Hotel Eldorado - www.hoteleldoradokelowna.com 500 Cook Road, Kelowna 250-763-7500
LEGEND Rated on: Quality, Ambiance, Service, and Presentation. Chef’s Rating 1-5. 1. Stay Home and Cook 2. Try the Specials 3. Worth a Reservation 4. Delightful Dining 5. Excellent A La Carte value based on a three-course wine-paired meal. $ ($35-$45) / $$ ($45-$65) / $$$ ($65-$85) / $$$$ ($85 +)
The Okanagan Wine
Festivals
Start Planning Your Visit to Okanagan Wine Country Okanagan Spring Wine Festival Savour spring and fine wine in the warm Okanagan sunshine. Described as “one of Canada’s best small festivals”, the Spring Festival is a perfect marriage of wine and culinary tourism. 2010: Apr 30 - May 9 2011: Apr 29 - May 8 2012: May 4 - 13 Okanagan Summer Wine Festival Held at Silver Star Mountain Resort come and treat yourself to an intimate weekend of wine education, arts, music, gourmet meals, winetasting and mile high outdoor recreation. 2010: Aug 5 - 7 2011: Aug 12 - 13 2012: Aug 10 - 11 Okanagan Fall Wine Festival This is the only wine festival in North America that takes place during the heart of grape harvest. Enjoy over 165 events throughout the valley including vineyard tours, lunches, dinners, events and the fall wine harvest. 2010: Oct 1 - Oct 10 2011: Sept 30 - 9 2012: Sept 28 - 7 Okanagan Winter Festival of Wine The most unique of all the festivals, the Winter Festival is held at Sun Peaks Resort. Enjoy winemasters dinners, educational seminars and a unique progressive tasting of acclaimed wines and world famous Okanagan Icewines. 2010: January 16 - 24 2011: January 19 - 23 2012: January 18 - 22 PURCHASE YOUR TICKETS TODAY! For more information on our four annual Okanagan Wine Festivals, contact www.thewinefestivals.com or email info@thewinefestivals.com or call 250-861-6654.
Access our site from your mobile www.owfs.mobi and follow us on twitter/OKWineFests magazine • SPRING 2010
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Recipes
Photo: Shawn Talbot
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Photos: Shawn Talbot
Risotto photo
Spring Pea Risotto by restaurant chef Brock Bowes Courtesy of Wild Apple restaurant & Lounge
1 litre of vegetable stock 2 Tbsp. olive oil 1 cup diced onion 2/3 cup rice 2 Tbsp. butter 1/4 cup Carmelis fresh Chevre Goat Cheese Sea salt & pepper to taste Bring your vegetable stock to a rolling boil, reduce to a simmer, keep warm. Over medium high heat, heat your olive oil in a large straight sided sauté pan. Add the onion and sauté until soft. Do not brown. Add the rice and saute till well coated with the fat. Using a 4-oz. ladle, carefully add one ladle of stock to the rice. Stir the rice over medium heat until he stock is absorbed and the rice is almost dry. Add another ladle of stock and repeat procedure. Do not add more than one ladle of stock at a time. Stop adding stock when the rice is tender but still firm in the centre, al dente! It should be very moist and creamy, but not runny. This cooking should take approximately 20 minutes. To finish, stir in butter, Snap Pea Puree, mix throroghly, add parmesan cheese, season to taste, mix again. Spring Snap Pea Puree 4 litres of water 1Tbsp. sea salt 1 1/2 cup of fresh snap peas 2 litres of ice water, for shocking the blanched peas Bring the water to a boil and add the salt. Add the peas and blanch for about one minute, or until a bright green colour has been achieved. Take the peas out using a strainer and put into the ice water to stop the cooking process. When cold, take the peas out and pat dry. Place into a blender, pulse the maching and them puree till very smooth. Strain the puree through a fine mesh strainer, keep at room temperature and reserve to finish the risotto. Makes 4-6 Servings Wine Recommendation
Howling Bluff Sauvignon Blanc magazine • SPRING 2010
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Beer and Honey Bread by David Colombe 1 Spring-form pan of “Pull Apart” buns
2 Tbsp. yeast 4 Tbsp. honey 2 1/2 C. amber-coloured beer (Pale Ale, Brown Ale, Pumpkin Ale), room temperature 1 Kg. all purpose flour (just under 6 cups) 2 tsp. salt
Photos: Mark Reichert
These are so yummy and squishy. Use a nice style beer. It will make these taste sweet and malty. If you use a “yellow beer” it won’t really add much flavour to the bread. I used Attila the Honey by Mt. Begbie Brewing. The beer has a fullness to it, without being overpowering with hops. If you serve these as dinner buns, I guarantee they will disappear fast. These are also really good with broth style soups.
Dissolve the yeast and honey in your beer choice. In a big bowl, mix together the flour and salt, then make a well in the middle. Once the yeast mixture has shown some “action” (it will start bubbling and growing”), pour it into the well in the flour. Start with one finger and swirl the wet ingredients into the dry, then combine all the dry into the wet and form a ball. Kneading is very important. To make the bread soft and pliable, knead it for a good 5-10 minutes on a large floured counter-top. There will be a distinct change in the texture of the bread dough and it will become soft and silky. Place the dough back into the bowl, score the top with a sharp knife and let it rise for about 45 minutes. I like to put a kettle on and boil some water, then put the water in a glass casserole dish on the bottom rack of the oven, then place the bowl with the dough just above it. The moist, warm air contained in the oven is perfect for dough. This is a good way to get the dough to rise, especially in the winter, when keeping the dough on the counter-top might be too cold to rise properly.
An intimate spot for all occasions serving authentic Greek fare in an ambient setting.
Call for Reservations: 250-707-1177 2437 Main Street, West Kelowna 54
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After it has doubled in size (about 45-60 min) take the dough out of the bowl and punch some of the air out of it. Shape the dough into 8-12 equal sized balls (depending on how big you want each bun) and place them in a buttered spring-form pan. Put them back into the oven, until they have doubled again. Take them out of the oven and pre-heat it to 425 degrees. This would be a good time to brush the buns with a bit of melted butter, if you’d like. Once the oven is heated up, bake the buns for 20-25 minutes, or until they are golden brown.
Photos: Mark Reichert
Harissa Lamb Lollies by David Colombe Serves 2-4 as an Appie The spice blend on this is amazing. There are a lot of recipes for Harissa, but this is one of my favourites. The addition of lavender really pulls out an “exotic-ness” to the lamb. If you can prepare these a day in advance and let them marinate overnight that would be perfect. If not, just do it as long as you can that day. Pick lavender in the late spring, just before the flower buds open. Tie the stems up and hang them to dry outside for a couple of days. Easy! Also, many health food stores will carry dried lavender for medicinal teas and what-not. Again, if you don’t know how to French a lamb rack, don’t be afraid to ask your butcher to do it for you.
1 Lamb Rack, Frenched and cut into individual Lollies ¼ C. olive oil 2 Tbsp cinnamon 2 Tbsp coriander 2 Tbsp cumin 1 Tbsp allspice 1 Tbsp paprika 2 Tsp nutmeg 2 Tsp cayenne 2 Tsp lavender 1 Tbsp ginger 2 garlic cloves Put the olive oil and all the spices into a food processor or blender. Buzz together until fully mixed. If the mix is too dry, add a bit more Olive Oil. This should be the consistency of a moist paste, not drippy. Rub the Harissa on each side of the Lamb Lollies. Grill the Lollies for a couple of minutes on each side on a really hot grill. Serve 2 or 3 Lollies top of a salad or with a chutney, salsa or a bit of balsamic reduction. Perfect as an Appie Wine Recommendation
Cedar Creek Syrah magazine • SPRING 2010
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Photo: Chytra Brown
Okanagan Apple Cranberry Galatte What most of us think of as a traditional French galette is anything but traditional. It seems that every region of France has its own version of this popular pastry (or is it a
by Bliss Bakery Base Recipe for Galette dough Ingredients
bread?). As a general rule though, a galette is a free formed round pastry or bread, similar to a pizza (but don’t tell that to a French baker!). The list of toppings for galettes is only limited by your imagination. The bliss base recipe for galettes is very versatile; it can be used to make sweet or savoury galettes, turnovers or even cinnamon buns. You can freeze unbaked galettes before
White or whole wheat bread flour White sugar Milk powder * Butter or non-hydrogenated margarine Instant yeast ** Eggs Cold water
4 cups ¼ cup 5 tsp ½ cup 1 ¾ tsp 2 1 cup
500 g 57 g 20 g 113 g 6.5 g 200 g
they have had their final rise. Once thawed, they will rise a little slower, but the end result is just as beautiful as the fresh ones. The recipe below makes 8 nice sized Galettes, so you can have lunch for today and freeze a few for a special treat in a few weeks.
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* If you do not have milk powder, you can reduce the water by ¼ cup and add ¼ cup whole milk. ** The fresher the yeast the better. If your yeast is questionable, ask your local baker (nicely!) if you can buy some instant yeast from them.
Directions
Stand Mixer: Whisk the yeast with the cold water and let sit for 10 minutes. Add all ingredients (including yeast and water) to a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Mix on low speed for 3 to 4 minutes until well incorporated. Increase mixer speed to medium and mix for 3 minutes until dough is smooth and sticky.
Mixing by hand: Whisk the yeast with the cold water and let sit for 10 minutes. Combine the flour,
The apples can be used with the peel on or off. Slice each cored apple
sugar, milk powder and butter/margarine in a large bowl or on a clean surface. Rub
in half and cut the apple halves into slices approx ¼ inch thick. Toss the
the flour mixture together to break up the butter until the mixture resembles small
apple slices with the lemon juice and granulated or berry sugar. To prepare
peas. Make a well in the middle of the flour mixture and pour the liquid into the well.
the Streusel Topping combine all ingredients in a stand mixer with a paddle
Carefully mix the flour into the liquid until well combined. The mixture will be very
attachment or food processor and mix on medium speed until crumbly,
sticky. Let sit covered for 20 minutes. Knead the dough on a flour surface, folding
do not over mix. The streusel topping can be frozen for up to 6 months or
the dough several times. Be aggressive with the dough, pound it, hit it, this will build
refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
strength in the dough. The kneading process can be done all at once or you can let the dough sit for 10 to 15 minutes and then continue. The total kneading time
In a medium bowl, combine the yellow sugar and cinnamon. Prepare the
should be about 4 to 5 minutes.
galette dough balls and flattened discs and the prepare the egg wash. Brush the outer one inch of each disc with the egg wash.
Place the well kneaded or mixed dough into a large oiled container and cover. Let the dough sit in the container at room temperature for 1 ½ to 2 hours. The
To assemble the galettes, sprinkle the yellow sugar mixture over the center
dough will rise slightly depending on the temperature of your room. The goal here
section of the galettes. Starting at one edge of the sugar mixture, start
is the fermentation of the dough, not the rise. The dough can be frozen for up to 2
laying down slices of apples on top of the sugar mixture working your
weeks or refrigerated for up to 24 hours at this point. Let the dough warm to room
way around the circular galette and overlapping the apples. There will
temperature before using.
likely be a gap in the middle, lay down another layer of apples over this gap, overlapping them the same way as the first layer. Sprinkle the
Okanagan Apple Cranberry Galette
cranberries or raspberries over top of the apples. Fold the egg washed
This sweet version uses fresh Okanagan apples and BC cranberries all topped
wash the section of dough that has been folded over and sprinkle with
with a delicious streusel crumble. You can substitute almost any type of fruit,
the coarse sugar.
section of dough over top of the edges of the fruit mixture. Lightly egg
or even add custards or jams into the mixture. The relatively short baking time is very forgiving for fillings or soft fruit. Again, this recipe makes 8 galettes.
Sprinkle the streusel topping generously over each galette. Carefully transfer the galettes to the cookie sheets or freeze them at this point in
Ingredients
a sealed bag or container. If you are using a pizza stone, place each galette on a lightly floured surface. Let the galettes sit at room temperature for
Galette Dough Dase Recipe
approximately 40 minutes until the dough starts to rise and is springy to the touch. Warm the oven to 350 degrees. Put the cookie sheets in the
Streusel Topping Brown or yellow sugar Pastry or all purpose flour Butter
oven and bake for 12-15 minutes until the crust is golden brown. If you
1 1/3 cups 2 cups 1 cup
are using a pizza stone, carefully transfer the galettes to the hot pizza stone and bake 9 – 10 minutes. Let the galettes cool a few minutes before serving. Optionally you can
Fruit Filling Large fresh apples, cored Fresh or frozen cranberries/raspberries Granulated or berry sugar Yellow sugar Cinnamon Lemon juice Coarse sugar Eggs
also drizzle the warm galettes with a simple icing (recipe follows).
approx. 2 pounds 1 1/2 cups 1/3 cup 1 cup 1 tsp ¼ cup ¼ cup 1
Simple Icing Melt 2 tablespoons of butter, add 1 ½ cups icing sugar and a few drops of hot water. Using a fork, stir the icing vigorously, adding a little water as needed. Stir until very smooth. If you add too much water, you will find it very difficult to make a smooth icing, add a little more icing sugar to help break up the lumps. Use immediately or cover to use later. magazine • SPRING 2010
57
Book Review by Lisa Harrison
Define Your Own Simple Luxuries In the pet-hair-covered, unmade bed, dinner-from-a-box bustle of daily life, Jones makes gracious living seem delightfully attainable. Forget Martha Stewart perfectionism, this book is a list-maker’s paradise of practical, often inexpensive tips on everything from cosmetics to preparing a 10-course dinner. Gleaned from many lifetimes of experience (hers and others), this Okanagan food and lifestyle columnist guides readers through the pleasures of food and wine pairing, planning a wedding night picnic and custom blending tea with blueberries, cherries and peppercorns for a cozy night by the fireplace. Making time for luxuries requires organization so Jones offers insights into simplifying banking, shopping, household chores and more. She also has clever double duty ideas. Lavender oil in her recipes for homemade bathroom spray and beeswax furniture polish freshens as they clean and protect. Her inventive uses for grapeseed oil and bananas are just two of the many reasons why this book is charmingly witty and wise.
Author: Leonne Wilson Jones Published by Time Well Spent Books Softcover. $19.95 Available for Purchase: Mosaic Books, Kelowna, 250 763-4418, Dragons Lair, West Kelowna, 250-452-9188 Hooked on Books, Penticton, 778-476-5621 Indulgences...because you deserve them, Summerland, 250-404-0392 The Book Shelf, Lake Country, 250-766-2079 From the publisher: www.timewellspentbooks.com
Picnic Perfection By Roslyne Buchanan
Photo: T. McKenzie
Kelowna husband/wife design team Tyler and Kelly Mckenzie have created picnic perfection with their ultimate wine tote. Finely handcrafted in bent walnut with durable latigo leather straps, German felt lining and a vintage wool blanket; it will cradle a 750 ml bottle, two stemless glasses and snacks (gourmet, of course!).
Ultimate Wine Tote. 58
magazine • SPRING 2010
So dust off your favourite Okanagan varietal from your wine cellar and plan for the summer picnic season! Orders take two to three weeks. Price: $390 plus shipping Shop: www.tealandgold.blogspot.com
Colombe’s Cooking in Your Kitchen This debut book by RauDZ chef and Culinary Arts student David Colombe encourages readers to discover local ingredients while incorporating five-star flare into home cooking. Colombe manages to ‘cook in your kitchen’ through several step-by-step photographs alongside each recipe. Have you ever wondered how frothy a frothy yeast mixture is supposed to be? Now, you’ll know. Even bakers who typically find yeast breads to be a somewhat deflating experience will have success with his Beer and Honey Bread (made even better with caraway seeds). He revs up Okanagan icons in Apricot Salsa and Blueberry Lavender Ice Cream. Reductions such as a memorable red wine sauce for tenderloin and attractive presentation (e.g. Prosciutto Wrapped Monkfish skewered over greens) offer impact with minimal effort. His Watermelon Salad, arranged as a sandwich, is an intriguing combination of beet greens, feta, ginger, and red chili that will have readers diving for the first ripe, sweet watermelon of summer. Sample recipes available on page 54 -55
Author: David Colombe Published by Colombe Cooking Series Softcover. $28.00-$35.00 Available for Purchase: Order by e-mail for $28 (dcolombe@hotmail.com) A Fine Kettle o’ Fish in Vernon (250) 545-5665 Okanagan College Bookstores, Kelowna, Vernon, Penticton Campuses
Building or renovating a restaurant? Follow a leader in restaurant design. With 30 years of great service and superior products, Brugman delivers efficient designs and production all within your budget! Phone : 604.460.6000 / Toll Free : 1.888.460.6650
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Marco Brugman Phone : 250.801.8876 / E-mail : marcobrugman@telus.net
www.brugmancommercialkitchens.com
magazine • SPRING 2010
59
SAVOUR Spots We’re always on the move in the Okanagan! So this is the “spot” for restaurants, delis and markets that have caught our attention and deserve yours.
Photo: Stuart Bish Photography/Design
Sage and Vines Bistro Step into this cheerful eatery and enter into a delightful dilemma of choices, from the multilevel seating that extends to a large private outdoor patio, a cozy subterranean rock grotto or somewhere in between to an eclectic menu to satisfy every taste. Chef Aaron Flynn serves an equally extensive selection of entrees. His Butcher’s Block is a meat lover’s paradise with steak, ribs, pork chops, and barbecue chicken while his pasta dishes offer sweet combinations such as Coconut Curry Shrimp or Sweet Chili Chicken Linguine. Waistline watchers can dive into the greens from the Mediterranean to a classic Caesar or a taste of India’s Strawberry Curry Chicken Salad. Craft beer, fine Okanagan wines, and malt whiskeys round out the menu. www.sageandvines.com 610 Main Street Penticton 250-492-7243 Open Daily: 11:00am - 2:30pm and 5:00am - 10:00pm
Bliss Bakery Imagine, a steaming hot latte, frothy white with a barrista’s expert swirl framing the foamy goodness. You’re seated on a comfy chair, a softy sticky bun dripping with cinnamon and sweetness awaits your first bite. There’s a cheery buzz of laughter and gossip in the air while a warm breeze teases the corners of your newspaper off the table. A handsome golden retriever lays by your feet waiting patiently for his master who, you can see, is chatting Scenic Patio at Bliss Bakery at the deli-style counter inside. The sun is warm on your shoulders and, as you gaze upon the shores of Okanagan Lake, a slip of a boat unfurls its sails to catch the intermittent breeze. This is bliss, Bliss Bakery, Peachland’s glimpse of heaven along the waterfront. Artisan breads, locally produced deli items, perfect picnic fare, tantalizing bakery items and dinner ideas that allow you to take a bit of Bliss with you when you go. www.blissbakery.ca 4200 Beach Ave, Peachland (250) 767 2711 Open Daily: 7:30am - 4:00pm (Mon-Fri) 7:30am - 5:00pm (Sat & Sun) 60
magazine • SPRING 2010
come and discover your . . .
Ridge Restaurant
Photo: T.Hackl
Set amid the colourful orchards of the Okanagan, the Ridge Restaurant offers all the charm and character of the historic farm home it is located in. Surrounded by fresh local ingredients, you can almost squeeze the menu to witness the ripeness of every dish. Situated within the 150 acres that comprise the family owned Kelowna Land King Crab and Okanagan Chard. and Orchard Company, the restaurant offers an expansive patio in an orchard setting with panoramic views of the valley below. Off the beaten path, this gem of a hideaway is a perfect setting for special occasions even earning a romantic designation as one of “The Best Places To Kiss in the Pacific Northwest.”
"a friendly and welcoming place to linger and peruse the selections of import and regional specialty food products."
culinary inspirations gourmet & speciality foods
www.k-l-o.com 3002 Dunster Rd, Kelowna 250 250-712-9404 Open daily for lunch from mid April until October
ph: 250.832.1585 170 McLeod Street, Salmon Arm , BC www.culinaryinspirations.ca
Blue Heron Waterfront Pub & Restaurant
Photo: Shawn Talbot
Overlooking a busy marina, this popular Vernon restaurant and pub is a favourite perch for locals. The restaurant is popular for its “supersize” nachos, their Wednesday night “Wine Nights” and Thursday night “Jam Nights”. A spacious, three-tiered outdoor patio offers umbrella-protected views of the waterfront and the pleasant summer buzz of the nautical social scene. With friendly service and tasty pub-style fare, this is another one of the valley’s “where the locals go and the tourists don’t know” great eateries. Sip on the house’s special “Blue Heron” libation while you enjoy spectacular sunset views and casual dining in a relaxed atmosphere.
Waterfront Patio at The Blue Heron.
7673 Okanagan Landing Rd, Vernon 250 542-5550 Open Daily: 11:00am - 11:00pm
The Vanilla Pod on Main Street in Summerland - the perfect pairing of food and wine.
The VanillaPod Pod Vanilla
Tapas + Wine Bar
9917 Main St Summerland 250-494-8222 open from 5:30 phone or email for reservations vanillapod@shaw.ca
thevanillapod.ca magazine • SPRING 2010
61
SAVOUR its Cool Kitchen Tools by Roslyne Buchanan
Ready by Remote When cooking anything from a roast chicken to a roast joint of pork or a steak on the BBQ this gem takes the stress from continually testing your dinner while you relax away from the oven or barbecue. You know dinner will be done to perfection. Once you learn how to set timers and thermometers correctly for the appropriate dishes all you have to remember is: don’t forget the remote when you leave the kitchen or barbecue! Savour contributor chef Steve Marston says his Redi Check Remote is the ultimate secret weapon for relaxing while preparing dinner anytime. Shop: Home Hardware, Home Depot, Home Outfitters or Canadian Tire or online at www.amazon.com. Price: $32.99 to $49.99
Get Saucy To pretty up your plate, get saucy. A plastic squeeze bottle with a nozzle provides a dramatic flare to the finish for both savoury and sweet dishes. This gadget is so simple, you‘ll look brilliant and its options are infinite. Shop: Available in household sections in department stores, specialty kitchen shops or online www.crs-online.ca Price: $1.25 to $4.00
The Grate Finale Once you have that dish –cooked to perfection– in place, finish it with a flourish! Versatile graters let you grate cheese, lemon or fresh vegetables over pasta or salad and chocolate or nutmeg over a cappuccino or a dessert. The Microplane brand name is so preeminent that its name is synonymous with the item itself. The company is known worldwide for sharp culinary tools that have revolutionized the way chefs and home cooks grate and zest. Shop: Specialty kitchen stores, Chef’s Edge (Kelowna) or http://ca.microplane.com Price: $14.99 to $25.00 62
magazine • SPRING 2010
The Okanagan’s th 16 Annual Spring Wine Festival Sip, Sample, Smile
by Dona Sturmanis and Rand Zacharias 1 Best of the Best Wine Reception Photo:The Okanagan Wine Festival Society
($41) Thursday, April 29, 3:00 - 5:00pm South Okanagan Events Centre, Penticton Many of the winemakers will be in attendance for the announcement of the best of the 2010 varietals. Alexis de Portneuf has paired award-winning cheeses from with a selection of the Okanagan’s best wines. Tapas and canapes will also be available.
2 Seven Wines and Seven Dates ($45) Friday, April 30, 7:00 - 10:00pm Manteo Waterfront Resort, Kelowna If you are single and between 19-30 years of age, this hot new ‘speed dating’ style event is a chance to make connections, sample seven local wines, and possibly form relationships in a relaxing and fun environment. After the festivities are over, everyone is welcomed down to Flashbacks Nightclub for an after party with free admission!
There’s so many fun events during the festival, here are ten not to miss!
3 Ultimate Wine and Seafood Pairing ($89) Friday, April 30 & Saturday, May 1, Friday May 7 & Saturday, May 08, Wine Reception: 6:30pm Hillside Estate Winery & Bistro, Naramata Four special evenings will offer three delectable courses featuring sustainable seafood approved by the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise Program, paired with Hillside award-winning wines, and accompanied by live entertainment. Reservations are required.
4 Valley First Vintages in the Park ($40) Saturday, May 1, 1:00 - 4:00pm Father Pandosy Mission heritage site, Kelowna Explore history during this outdoor festival in a convivial atmosphere of wine and food complete with live performances by great local performers.
5 All You Need is Cheese...and Some Wine ($49), Saturday, May 1, 7:00-9:00 pm Kelowna Art Gallery The Dairy Farmers of Canada present well-crafted Canadian cheeses paired with local wines in a relaxed, educational setting. This is a Get Home Safe Event, so a ride home is included. magazine • SPRING 2010
63
6 Terasen Gourmet & Grapes ($79) Sunday, May 2, 6:00 - 8:30pm Cabana Bar & Grille, Kelowna Celebrity chef Ned Bell (Food Network & CTV) competes with Local Lounge and Grille’s chef Paul Cecconi in an Iron Chef Okanagan event. While you sip and sample from six food and wine stations, you’ll be able to watch the duelling chefs televised.
7 House of Q in the Vineyard
True Pleasure is only a Sip Away
($89), Thursday, May 6, 1:00 - 5:00pm Noble Ridge Winery, Oliver TV Personality of House of Q fame, Brian Misko prepares an al fresco dining experience on the weather-protected patio of the winery. Learn Misko’s techniques of outdoor cooking and grilling then taste the results with a barbecue themed fourcourse, wine-paired meal.
8 Summerhill Masquerave ($69), 6:00pm - 12:00am Thursday, May 6 Summerhill Pyramid Winery, Kelowna Experience gourmet organic food and wine at chef stations, then dance/rave away until midnight in the pyramid with DJ Krucial K. Entertainment will also be provided by the Kinshira Performance Dance Troupe. Your ticket includes entrance, all food, two glasses of wine, masks and glowsticks.
So you want to be a Sommelier? Or just want to be more wine savvy? Here’s a fun and enlightening introduction to wine with a global outlook: The Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 1 & 2 courses offered by the International Sommelier Guild at the Mission Hill Wine Academy in West Kelowna. Level 1 - Introductory course April 12th, 2010 Mondays Sept. 13th, 2010 Mondays
8 weeks $600 8 weeks $600
Level 2 - Advanced course (Level 1 is a prerequisite) Offered once a year starting:
Nov. 8th, 2010
Mondays 16 weeks $1000
Each class features a tasting of six high quality wines, text book, class materials, and an unmatched setting. Registration and course details: www.internationalsommelier.com Information: Ingo Grady - igrady@missionhillwinery.com
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magazine • SPRING 2010
9 A Culinary Odyssey with Canada’s Chef of the Year ($150) Friday, May 7, 6:00 - 10:00pm Gray Monk Estate Winery’s Grapevine Restaurant, Lake Country Executive winery chef Willi Franz collaborates with distinguished chef Chris Thomson who is the executive souschef of the Banff Centre of Fine Arts, Canada’s Chef of the Year 2009, recipient of the Americas’ Chef of the Year and finalist at the World Conference of World Societies of Chefs in Chile 2010, to present the ultimate five-course dinner, paired with Gray Monk’s premiere wines.
10 WestJet Wine Tastings @ Delta Grand Okanagan Resort ($57) Friday, May 7 & Sat, May 8, 6:30 - 9:30pm Kelowna If you’re too busy to attend any of the numerous other wine events festival week, this is the perfect venue for sipping and sampling over 160 wines provided by 40 Okanagan wineries. One of the most popular places to mix, mingle and meet fellow wine enthusiasts. Delta Chefs serve up delicious bread and cheese samples to cleanse your palate. Taking place on the festival’s final weekend, this is a fun way to wrap up your Okanagan wine experience and get home safely too. FOR A COMPLETE LISTING OF EVENTS: www.thewinefestivals.com
Label Library
20623 McDougald Rd Summerland, BC 250-494-5208 www.bonitaswinery.com info@bonitaswinery.com
33013 Road 9A, Oliver, BC 250.485.0227 www.olivertwistwinery.com
M AG A Z I N E
Gourmet Okanagan Style
Restaurant of the Year
AWARDS
Call for Entries
This prestigious competition combines three demanding challenges as restaurants show off their ‘Signature Dish’; their service and skills, standards and their spontaneous culinary skills in a ‘mystery box’ dessert cook-off. The prize will be $1000 for each of the three team members plus a double page promotional spread in the upcoming issue of Savour Magazine, a value of $4200!
2010
On Oct. 30,2010 Six Okanagan restaurants will face off in this exciting competition!
For an entry form, visit us online at www.savourmag.com or email info@savourmag.com
Space is limited. Please register TODAY! magazine • SPRING 2010
65
Conversions Wine Bottle Sizes In the U.S., the standard wine and spirit bottle size is 750ml, approximately 25.4 ounces. This is almost exactly equivalent to an American fifth (4/5 of a quart or 25.6 ounces). Other legal U.S. wine bottle sizes range from 100ml to 3 litres, and various bottle-size terms (including French bottle names) are sometimes used. Older spirit bottle descriptors (such as half-pint, pint, fifth and half-gallon) are no longer accurate for standard bottle sizes, although the fifth is so close in size that the term is still widely used.
Approximate Equivalents
U.S. Weights and Measures
1 quart (liquid) = about 1 litre 8 tablespoons = 4 ounces = 1/2 cup = 1 stick butter 1 cup all-purpose presifted flour = 5 ounces 1 cup stoneground yellow cornmeal = 4 1/2 ounces 1 cup granulated sugar = 8 ounces 1 cup brown sugar = 6 ounces 1 cup confectioners’ sugar = 41/2 ounces 1 large egg = 2 ounces = 1/4 cup = 4 tablespoons 1egg yolk = 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon 1 egg white = 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
1 pinch = less than 1/8 teaspoon (dry) 1 dash = 3 drops to 1/4 teaspoon (liquid) 3 teaspoons =1 tablespoon =1/2 ounce (liquid and dry) 2 tablespoons = 1 ounce (liquid and dry) 4 tablespoons = 2 ounces (liquid and dry) = 1/4 cup 5 1/3 tablespoons = 1/3 cup 16 tablespoons = 8 ounces = 1 cup =1/2 pound 1 cup = 8 ounces (liquid) = 1/2 pint 2 cups = 16 ounces (liquid) = 1 pint 4 cups = 32 ounces (liquid) = 2 pints = 1 quart 16 cups = 128 ounces (liquid) = 4 quarts = 1 gallon 1 quart = 2 pints (dry) 8 quarts = 1 peck (dry) 4 pecks = 1 bushel (dry)
Recipe Index p.53 Spring Pea Risotto
Spirit Bottle Sizes (name corresponds with bottle size)
p.54 Beer and
Honey Bread
p.55 Harissa
Lamb Lollies
p.57 Okanagan
Apple Cranberry Galette
SAVOUR Winter 2010 photo credit acknowledgement:
Thomas Born / Spirit Truffles P62 & 64 66
magazine • SPRING 2010
100 mL = 3.4 oz. 200 mL = 6.8 oz. 500 mL = 16.9 oz.
750 mL = 25.4 oz. 1 ltr = 33.8 oz 1.75 ltrs = 59.2 oz.
Common Bottle Terminology Miniature Split Half bottle 500 mL Bottle/750 mL One Litre Magnum Double Magnum Jeroboam (in Champagne, France) Rehoboam (in Champagne, France) Jeroboam (in Bordeaux, France) Methuselah (in Champagne, France) Imperial (in Bordeaux, France) Salmanazar Balthazar Nebuchadnezzar
Metric Measure
Fluid Ounces
100 mL 187 mL 375 mL 500 mL 750 mL 1 ltr 1.5 ltrs 3 ltrs
3.4 oz. 6.3 oz. 12.7 oz. 16.9 oz. 25.4 oz. 33.8 oz. 50.7 oz. 101.5 oz.
4.5 ltrs
152.2 oz.
6 ltrs 6 ltrs 9 ltrs 12 ltrs 15 ltrs
202.9 oz. 202.9 oz. 304.4 oz. 405.8 oz. 507.3 oz.
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