WINTER 2010
Winter Wine Touring
Tribute to Tradition Vintage Okanagan Dining
Canada’s Warmest Welcome Delivers
Slopeside Dining New Culinary Trail Blazers
Amante Bistro Shares the Love
ISSUE 2 • VOLUME 1
4.95 CAN / 6.50 US
magazine • WINTER 2010
1
1
$ 25 IS PROUDLY DONATED to our Canadian Olympic Team and the 2010 Winter Games every time you purchase Sumac Ridge Tribute.
Celebrate World-Class Athletic Performance
BC VQA OKANAGAN VALLEY
Tribute was created to honour world-class athletic per formance as it takes centre stage at the Vancouver 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games. Crafted in the traditional “Méthode Classique” this sparkling wine captures fresh citrus aromas with zesty apple flavours on the palate. This commemorative wine reflects per fection at its peak.
MARK WENDENBURG SENIOR WINEMAKER
sumacridge.com 2
magazine • WINTER 2010
Sumac Ridge is a winery of Vincor Canada, Official Wine Supplier of the 2010 Winter Games / est une vinerie de Vincor Canada, fournisseur officiel de vin des Jeux d’hiver de 2010.
14 Amante Bistro Shares the Love
20 A Gentlemen’s Pleasure
22 Slopeside Dining
8 Swirl
46 Wine Tasting Notes
17 Great Grape Controversy
48 Book Review
28 Global Perspectives
58 Snowy Suds
41 Sleeping Vineyards
60 Savour Spots
44 The Vintage Room
62 Savour its
COVER: Merlot-poached Pear and Berries in a Callebaut Chocolate Sauce with Vanilla Bean Gelato at Amante Bistro, Penticton, BC (Recipe: Page 55) Photo: Shawn Talbot. magazine • WINTER 2010
3
MAGAZINE
Gourmet Okanagan Style
Co-Founders
Chytra M. Brown Craig N. Brown
Publisher
Chytra M. Brown
Managing Editor Joyce D. Wegner
30 Winter Wine Touring
Art Director
Mark McCann Design
Contributors
Dr. David Bond Jennifer Cockrall-King Paige Donner Ingo Grady Leisha Jones Ian Payne Rhys Pender Steve Marston Dona Sturmanis Steve Threndyle
Contributing Photographer Shawn Talbot (All other photos are credited) Administration Joanne Clarke Advertising Sales Jack Kania jack@prospermediagroup.ca
36 Tribute to Tradition
Savour Magazine is published quarterly by Prosper Media Group Inc. Copyright (2009) Prosper Media Group Inc. 101B-1979 Old Okanagan Hwy. West Kelowna, BC V4T 3A4 President Craig N. Brown Vice President Noll C. Derriksan Grand Chief WFN, U.B.C.I.C. 1 year: $24.99 2 year: $46.85 3 year: $65.25 1 year (USA): $ 40.00 To subscribe: subscribe@savourmag.com Canadian Publications Mail Product Agreement No.7296429. Publication Mail Agreement No. 41835528
49 Recipes
Printed by Teldon Print Media The views expressed in Savour Magazine are those of the respective contributors and not the publisher or staff. No part of this publication may be produced without written consent of the publisher.
4
magazine • WINTER 2010
Letter from the editor - Happy New Year I hope as you’re reading this that you’re relaxing somewhere in a coffee shop, tucked into a cozy armchair, or taking a few moments of stress-buster time at your desk. When we launched this magazine last October many people thought we were blatantly and foolishly ignoring the doom and gloom of the publishing industry. Especially with the recent demise of Conde Nast’s Gourmet magazine the iconic American food publication that, in its heyday, boasted a readership in the millions. Yet our first issue was so enthusiastically received that we couldn’t wait to commence our next one. Every event I attend I am thrilled with the response from industry-related professionals, tourism members, hoteliers, and our readers. Subscriptions have exceeded our initial expectations and the support we receive from the business community is an affirmation that Savour Magazine is a much-needed and highly valued addition to the Okanagan Valley. Thompson Okanagan Tourism Association’s (TOTA) annual fall Tourism Summit invited keynote speaker, UK-based tourism strategist and futurist, Anna Pollock to share her expertise with an audience eager to improve their tourism savvy. Pollock noted the importance of “powerful social media marketing” through online applications such as Twitter, YouTube, and blogs. Experiential information is what people want as they make their travel, dining, and purchasing decisions. The value of “first-person” information is a substantive tool that persuasively influences our choices. Writers from as far away as Los Angeles and New Zealand have contacted me, eager to participate in our pages. We remain committed to providing a local perspective on our thriving culinary and wine world. Our readers want to hear great stories that are locally inspired, descriptive, informative, entertaining, and truthful. A veritable league of talented chefs, winemakers, sommeliers, growers, artisans, and hospitality experts masterfully utilize their creative energy to enhance the enjoyment of our everyday world in the Okanagan. Through our quality print version that you hold in your hands, or via our online pages, our Twitter, our Facebook and our blogs; we strive to deliver the creative essence that defines this incredible valley. Thank you for inviting us into your homes, your offices, your businesses, and your events. I am eagerly anticipating attending the Winter Wine Festival at Sun Peaks in January. On behalf of all of us at Savour Magazine we look forward to sharing with you a prosperous and joyous 2010. Joyce D Wegner
Managing Editor editor@savourmag.com magazine • WINTER 2010
5
Contributors Jennifer Cockrall-King A passionate culinary enthusiast and award-winning writer who lives part-time in Naramata, Jennifer discovers the origins of her Penticton neighbours Rose and Abul Amante of Amante Bistro as they “Share the Love” of food in the Okanagan Valley. Jennifer also cracks open the Vancouver Cooks 2 cookbook and samples some recipes in her review.
Ingo Grady As a professional oenophile and wine educator, Ingo encourages “attentive drinking” to enhance the pleasure of enjoying the wide variety of varietals and vintages available in the Okanagan. Ingo provides a comprehensive selection of wine-related courses and the homework is fun too!
Chef Steve Marston Chef Marston dines at one of the Okanagan’s historic dining rooms, The Vintage Room at the Coast Capri Hotel and provide us with his review from a chef’s perspective. Marston is a member of the Chef’s Association and the 2004 recipient of Bermuda’s Chef of the Year.
Rhys Pender Rhys examines how our cooler climate affects the vineyards during the winter season. It may appear that the vines are sleeping, but vineyard managers are working hard to minimize the damage that frost, wildlife, and other pests can bring. Certified as a Master of Wine, Rhys also shares his extensive knowledge with his tasting notes featuring romantic reds, winter whites, and fortified port-style wines to enjoy with a fine cigar.
Guest Columnist Dr. David Bond Executive Director of the Association of BC Winegrowers, David Bond provides his perspective on the great grape controversy of sharing B.C. wine designated retail shelves with non-B.C. wines. David also hosts a weekly wine cast featuring the Hidden Wineries of BC.
6
magazine • WINTER 2010
Uncork your best financial solutions banking . borrowing . insurance . investing
Locations: Kamloops . Vernon Penticton . Kelowna Oliver . Keremeos . Princeton Armstrong . Lumby . Peachland www.valleyfirst.com magazine • WINTER 2010
7
by Joyce D Wegner
Congratulations to Sandhill Wines earning national recognition as Canada’s Winery of the Year by Wine Access magazine. Master winemaker Howard Soon has practiced his craft on behalf of Sandhill Wines and Calona Vineyards, now owned by Andrew Peller Ltd., for almost 30 years with a virtual pirate’s chest of medals and trophies as a result of his talent. Summerhill Pyramid Winery captured the title of Canadian Winery of the Year at the prestigious International Spirit and Wine Competition in London, England. Well-known Okanagan winemaker Erik Von Krosigk is behind Summerhill’s organic commitment to producing award-winning wines. Narrowing the award territory to our own valley, the Okanagan Fall Wine Festival judging panel recognized Painted Rock Estate Winery, Okanagan Falls as Best New Winery for 2009.
Chef Bernard Cas avant brings his “wine country cu isine” to Manteo Resort.
Photo: Manteo Resor 8
magazine • WINTER 2010
t
Alibi wins rave reviews Anthony Gismondi, Vancouver Sun, July 25, 2009 “Black Hills Alibi 2008 is fashioned after the Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blends of the Loire Valley. We the love the fresh open vibrant & energetic energy of this 81/19 blend wine and all the fruit. It jumps from the glass offering citrus, honey, green apple fruit aromas with bits of mineral/chalky, grapefruit flavours. Sophisticated white wine.” Jancis Robinson “...well balanced and zesty. Good balance and beginning, middle and end. ...very good fruit treatment. Good length.” Geoff Last, The Calgary Herald “A very tasty white wine. Stylistically it veers towards Bordeaux rather than the Loire Valley or New Zealand, offering a full-bodied white with notes of almonds, lemon curd and minerals. It would go well with grilled chicken, tuna and salmon” Jurgen Gothe, the Georgia Straight “Rich and Opulent, luscious and fresh, the sixth vintage continues a tradition of inspired wine-making” Deanna Van Mulligen, The Wine Diva “…aromas of guava, nectarine and melon with floral accents and undertones of herbs, cut grass and minerals. The palate shows a different side, hints of caramel and toast, spice and citrus zest….very good intensity and a substantial, mouth-watering finish” Vines Magazine, May/June issue 2009 “Black Hills white blend has grown from being a sideline to its respected Bordeaux red, Nota Bene, to a serious contender in its own right. Sauvignon Blanc makes up the bulk of the blend, with barrel fermented Semillion adding some richness to the crisp, clean, focused wine”
Bla c k Hi lls E S T A T E W I N E RY
www.blackhillswinery.com glenn@blackhillswinery.com Phone: (250) 498-0666
magazine • WINTER 2010
9
RauDZ Regional Table launches food line.
Photo: RauDz
Award winners on the move include chef Bernard Casavant, (BC Restaurants Hall of Fame) who has joined Manteo Resort’s Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge. In his executive chef role, Casavant is planning to introduce a new menu featuring, in his own words: “wine country cuisine.” For those of us who enjoyed the chef’s delectable menu at Burrowing Owl Winery’s Sonora Room, don’t panic he will be preparing his signature dishes such as star anise infused wild salmon, roasted carrot and brie soup, and his famous cinnamon and hazelnut buns for his new, soon-to-be followers in Kelowna. In the meantime, marketing representative Kerri McNolty says candidates from around the world have been applying to take over kitchen duties at Burrowing Owl Winery. So stay tuned.
Another well-known valley personality on the move is ChristaLee McWatters Bond, who has left her position at Vincor to assist her father Harry McWatters and her husband, Cameron Bond, in their professional endeavors. Christa-Lee is joining Harry’s Vintage Consulting Group, a wine consulting company. The priority job on her list is to move their Local Liquor Mart from its current 1,200 square foot location to a larger 7,200 square foot location in the same IGA Plaza in Summerland. The new facility will house the new wine shop, a demonstration kitchen, wine tasting bar, and the offices for Vintage Consulting. In her “spare” time, Christa will continue to support Cameron’s Local Lounge and Grill Restaurant in Summerland. “I really enjoy working within the family environment again,” admits Christa. Rod Butters of Kelowna’s RauDZ Regional Table, has recently launched his line of rjb preserves and canning to be sold exclusively through the restaurant. rjb’s ‘Carmelized Onion Jam’ made with organic onions, ‘Pickled Carrots’ featuring rainbow carrots from local Sunshine Farms, and ‘Heirloom Staccato Cherries in Spiced Merlot Syrup’ are preserved at their peak freshness and hand made with simple ingredients following the philosophy of Chef Butters. Each jar bears the rjb label to signify Butters’ stamp of approval that is the customary brand for both his restaurant and his food products.
s implY the B est W ine & c ulinaRY e xpeRience in the o Kanagan
R estauRant & W ine s hop o pen Y eaR R ound 3303 B oucheRie R oad , KeloWna 10
magazine • WINTER 2010
| quailsgate.com | 1.800.420.9463 | 250-769-4451
Winter Wine Festival at Sun Peaks Resort - Jan 16 -24, 2010
I enjoyed a setting with a definitive Asian influence when I recently went to participate in the Year of Food and Wine in Hong Kong. I arrived with a trio gift pack from Mission Hill and a selection of Sandhill’s Small Lot vintages to present to my hosts. I had the pleasure of an introduction to ToTT’s (Talk of the Town) restaurant named Hong Kong’s Best Restaurant 2009, coincidentally located on the 34th floor in the Excelsior Hotel (Mandarin Oriental Group) where I was staying. A scrumptious three-course dinner complete three wine pairings (Sauvignon Blanc, Napa and Malbec, Argentina and late harvest Conchay Toro, Chile) was a steal for $538 Hong Kong or approximately $75 Canadian. There are over 11,000 restaurants in Hong Kong representing culinary tastes from around the world in a region that is one of the most densely populated in the world (7.5 million) and 20 times smaller than our entire Okanagan Valley! Speaking of crowded I attended a sold-out culinary event at the invitation of Mission Hill Family Estate Winery in support of the Chef’s Table Society. Mission Hill’s chef Matthew Batey and Cabana’s Ned Bell prepared their recipes from Vancouver Cooks2 (see review on page48 ). If you have not yet attended an event in the winery’s state-of-the-art demonstration kitchen you must treat yourself.
Photot: Sun Peaks Resort/Adam Stein
NO WINTER LASTS FOREVER NO SPRING SKIPS ITS TURN -hal borland
Regardless of the season or the weather outside, Chef Butters and his kitchen team are using the freshest local produce for their inventive seasonal menus. Winter squash, turnips and poached quince will make way in spring for baby lettuce, green peas, asparagus and sweet onions with each ingredient from a dedicated local farmer, producer or artisan. Join us at RauDZ© winter, spring, summer and fall for a seasonal look at our menu. -Chef Rod Butters and Audrey Surrao
RauDZ REGIONAL TABLE
©
FRESH • LOCAL • COMFORTABLE
Open 7 days a week from 5:00 p.m. 1560 Water Street, Kelowna
250•868•8805
www.raudz.com
magazine • WINTER 2010
11
Okanagan Chefs’ Association Award Winners are: (L-R) Jon Croft Deanna Hodge Perry Bentley Robyn Sigurdson Geoffrey Couper A new series of “Cook Like a Chef” is scheduled twice per week from January to early March. This is a sensory experience that is better than you’ll ever see on television. After all there’s still no app for smelling and tasting!
The Okanagan Chefs’ Association held their Annual Branch Awards to recognize the efforts and accomplishments of these outstanding individuals and their contribution to the Okanagan culinary scene. Voted on by their peers are the following recipients: Associate Member of the Year - Jon Crofts, Codfathers Seafood Market, Junior Member of The Year - Robyn Sigurdson, RauDZ Regional Table and Deanna Hodge was named Outstanding Member of the Year. The Okanagan College Culinary Arts was honoured with their own Geoffrey Couper accepting the prestigious Chef of the Year award and Perry Bentley, of the Okanagan Chefs Association Culinary Arts program, bestowed with the Presidents Award.
WH ATEV ER Y OUR REA SON .
A friend of Ned Bell’s has arrived on the Okanagan culinary scene; Michael Lyon is the new executive chef at the Hotel Eldorado. Formerly from Georgios Trattoria in Banff, Chef Lyon is a Gold Medal Plate Winner (Calgary 2006) as well as a member of the Gold Medal Hall of Fame. When he’s not behind the line in the Eldorado’s kitchen you’ll be able to spot him on the Food Network in a new series called ‘Chef Off’, a competitive cooking show. Between chefs Ned Bell (Cabana’s), Bernard Casavant (Wild Apple) and Michael Lyon (Eldorado), it appears there’s a new golden triangle of dining in the Mission district of Kelowna.
Photo: Okanagan Chefs’ Association
Nature’s Fare Markets
Live Well. Live Organic. www.naturesfare.com 12
magazine • WINTER 2010
Lifestyle solutions down every aisle.
Big Reds at Big White Wine Festival was a big success! Big White Ski Resort came out a winner with their 2nd Annual Big Reds @ Big White Wine event in early December. Michael J. Ballingall hosted Mark McCann, our art director, and me at the stunning Towering Pines property complete with lift and event tickets. There were an impressive number of wineries present with a large crowd of wine enthusiasts in attendance. I spoke to exhibitor Decoa Harder from Ex Nihilo Winery who took a break from building their new winery in Lake Country to enjoy some winter fun at the resort. Their new facility is scheduled for a grand opening in time for the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival. I enjoy receiving all the wineries newsletters. One item I thought was quite cute was Hillside Estate Winery’s winemaker Kathy Malone had an unexpected visitor in her backyard – rather an “unbearable surprise.” Check out their Harvest/Winter 2009 Newsletter online to view the uninvited guest that has become their new mascot. Check it out: www.hillsideestate.com Submissions are welcome and images appreciated – swirl@savourmag.com
Photo: Big White Ski Resort
magazine • WINTER 2010
13
Amante Bistro
Shares the Love by Jennifer Cockrall-King With a name like Amante Bistro – Amante is Italian for lover – the food can’t be anything other than sexy at this sleek, urban bistro right on Main Street in downtown Penticton. “People don’t believe me when I tell this story of how we met,” says chef Abul Adame in his cantering Latin American-inflected pronunciation, “but when I started as the chef at Il Nido in Vancouver, Rose was already working there. She told me her name was Rose Amante, and I said to her, ‘You’re flirting with me! I speak Spanish and I know what Amante means!’” Photos: Shawn Talbot 14
magazine • WINTER 2010
A striking, dark-haired, dark-eyed beauty, Rose Amante has Italian-Canadian roots on both sides of her family, so she comes by her flirtatious last name honestly. It was love at first sight and a few years later Adame declared that if the two of them ever opened a restaurant together, it would be called Amante.
“We had been living in Vancouver for over 10 years and we were looking for a change.” They could see the potential of the Okanagan with the burgeoning wine industry. Food, they thought, would surely follow.
“Every plate that we send out of the kitchen has to show drama. I want every person to look at the plate and say, ‘Wow! ”
Adame also comes by his love of good food honestly. His mother used to run a home-based restaurant, common in Latin America, in the family’s backyard in Guadalajara, Mexico. As kids, Adame and his sister would help with chopping and other meal preparation, then they’d set up the makeshift neighbourhood restaurant and wait on the customers who would fill the tables by seven or eight in the evening.
The couple discovered the Okanagan purely by accident while on a summer vacation. “Like any other tourists,” laughs Adame.
‘
Years later, he moved to Canada. Captivated by Vancouver’s multicultural mix and food culture, he enrolled at Vancouver’s Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts. During his training and afterward, he worked at some of the city’s top restaurants, including CinCin Ristorante, Bis Moreno (now defunct) and Umberto Menghi’s Circolo (also defunct). And ultimately, as chef of Il Nido, where he met Rose.
Adame proposed that they try living here for one summer and Amante agreed. Adame began as the sous-chef at Burrowing Owl in 2004. For two years, they soaked up wine knowledge and glimpsed the potential of the valley. This led the couple to their next big life decision. Amante Bistro opened in April 2007. It was contemporary in both the look and the menu. For local Penticton diners, it was a radical departure from anything they had experienced. “We saw the potential and we knew that this place was going to grow. But at the same time we were nervous because we were going to try to do something
LOVE WHAT WE DO C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
IN THE HEART OF THE GOLDEN MILE BENCH Hester Creek Estate Winery and Villa Wine Shop open daily at 10:00 am Road #8, just South of Oliver, BC Phone 250 498 4435 www.hestercreek.com
magazine • WINTER 2010
15
quite different,” admits Adame. The duo, however, knew that that they had to stay true to their food and dining roots. Amante Bistro was going to be different. Initially, this proved to be a nerve-wracking decision. “We saw a lot of people walking in, sitting down, reading the menu and leaving. Others would admit they didn’t understand a word on the menu, but Rose would explain the dishes and make them feel comfortable,” recalls Adame. (Many items are just classics with a new twist or unexpected flavour combos, pairing the couple’s Mexican and Italian food passions with local Okanagan ingredients.) Finally around the fifth or sixth month of business they felt the tide turn. A glowing review in the Globe and Mail that fall added to their charm. The couple’s instincts were right and the small restaurant found its niche with food and wine savvy locals as well as gastro-tourists. It’s also the perfect date-night choice. Between Amante’s elegant sophistication that pervades the dining room and Adame’s artistic flair for presentation, Latin passion is palpable in the restaurant. “I love drama, lots of drama,” enthuses Adame when asked about his particular style of cooking and presentation. “Every plate that we send out of the kitchen has to show drama. I want every person to look at the plate and say, ‘Wow! That person took the time to place every single thing on the plate in a certain way.’ I want the customer to feel my passion in every dish.” Adame smiles, “That, to me, is sexy.” Amante Bistro 101-483 Main Street, Penticton 250-493-1961 www.amantebistro.com Amante Bistro Dinner for Two Recipes (Pages 53-55)
16
magazine • WINTER 2010
Black Hills Alibi 2008, BC, Canada Offers a panoply of fresh citrus, pear and quince aromas. Dry and mediumbodied with moderate fruit intensity and mouth-watering acidity. There are detailed Sauvignon Blanc notes of citrus peel, cut grass and lemon thyme nicely supported by a broader mouth feel of barrel-fermented Semillon – hints of vanilla and oak but also lemon verbena and melon. This wine is a great example of the crisp and refreshing Okanagan wine character and highly recommended for nearterm enjoyment. Pleasing food pairings could include raw oysters and other crustaceans or vegetable medleys comprised of tomatoes, asparagus, green beans, chives and cilantro, as well as white proteins incorporating chêvre or feta cheeses, green olives, limes, lovage or sorrel. $30.00
The
Great Grape Controversy by Dr. David E. Bond
From my kitchen window I can see sleek stainless steel tanker trucks filled with imported bulk wine climbing the road to the Mission Hill Family Estate Winery where the contents will be bottled and sold as having been “cellared in Canada”. The labels do not link this wine to Mission Hill in any way. After all, the stated objective of the company is to become one of the ten best wineries in the world and selling cheap, imported plonk does not fit within that lofty image. So if you look carefully at the label of the various “cellared in” products produced at the winery - Sonora Ridge, Mission Ridge, Wild Horse Canyon and Painted Turtle - Mission Hill is not mentioned. Rather, a “winery” in Oliver with a post office box as an address is the listed producer.
“No English language dictionary that I have been able to find has a verb “to cellar”. Moreover, Mission Hill is not alone in producing these wines. Andrew Peller wines has a raft of labels – Proprietor’s Reserve, Hochtahler, Domaine D’Or, and Copper Moon among others. And Vincor, the Canadian arm of Constellation Brands, the world’s largest producer of wine, not only has the Jackson-Triggs White label series but also Sawmill Creek, Capistro, and Naked Grape.
All state they are “Cellared in Canada” but only in small type on the rear label do they disclose that they are exclusively or primarily foreign wines. Isn’t this deceiving? Well, yes. For starters consider the term “cellared in”. No English language dictionary that I have been able to find has a verb “to cellar”. So the term itself is conveniently vague. The wine is not put away to mature and improve in quality. The time it spends in the bottling facility between arrival in bulk and departure in bottles or cartons is measured in hours or days, not months or years. Why then, not simply state on the label: “bottled in Canada”? What is disturbing is that the government-run liquor stores, until recently, aided and abetted this consumer deception by placing these mostly foreign wines in a section clearly labeled as being from British Columbia. It required a keen eye and a willingness to read the fine print on the back label to find the true origin of these wines. Moreover, the percentages of foreign and domestic wine are never stated. When I asked the Liquor Distribution Branch why these obviously foreign wines were placed in the B.C. wine section, I was told that the Branch wanted to support brands that were developed in Canada. Truth in advertising, at least on the front label, was not considered to be important for the consumer. magazine • WINTER 2010
17
These cheap imported-in-bulk wines, (cost the bottlers less than 50¢ a liter) are big sellers. That means they make loads of money for both the bottlers in B.C. and for the LDB whose mark up is 117%. If consumers are duped into believing that they are consuming a B.C. wine well, then that just helps sales.
All the B.C. wineries want is truth in labeling. If the wine does not come from B.C., or if it contains less than 100% B.C. wine, then just say so on the front label and in type large enough to read without a magnifying glass. At least now they will be put in a section indicating they contain imported wines.
Earlier this year a piece on these “cellared in” wines on the blog of a famous international wine critic and an article in The Economist magazine brought this deceptive practice to the attention of many consumers. Local media stories both here and in Ontario where this practice was also allowed resulted in pressure on both liquor authorities and the wineries to alter their behaviour. In Ontario the change took only a couple of weeks.
We are proud of the wine we produce. The quality has been steadily improving. We don’t want the stature of our wines debased in the minds of the consumer when they purchase these impostors sitting side-by-side with our quality products.
Here in B.C. the government first said they were unaware of the practice, but after a ton of evidence to the contrary, finally said the placement of these wines in the LDB stores would be changed. It took until November 8 to finally put into place effective identification that these wines were not 100% B.C. wines. The smaller independent wineries of British Columbia that are members of the Association of B. C. Winegrowers do not argue against the right of Vincor, Peller and Mission Hill to sell those wines even if they do not wish to admit they do.
Desert Hills Winery located in the Beautiful Sunny South Okanagan, is home to a premiere terroir known as the Black Sage Bench. It is here in the sun-soaked desert climate of the south Okanagan that you find our 24 acre vineyard and family owned estate winery producing award winning wines. Winner of Two People’s Choice Awards and International Silver Medal Winner. 30480-71 St Black Sage Road
Estate Winery
OLIVER, B.C.
18
250.498.6664
www.deserthills.ca
magazine • WINTER 2010
Editor’s Note Dr. David Bond is the Executive Director of the Association of BC Winegrowers
come and taste for yourself what Spanish reviewers call
“
quasi orgasmico
“
bring this ad in to receive a free wine tasting for four - including a tasting of our famous icewine!
($20 value) www.rollingdale.ca {250} 769-9224
"Everyone's favourite stop" ~ Club Wine Tours Real Cellar Door Tastings
Organic Wines
Picnic Area
2306 Hayman Road, West Kelowna - off Boucherie Rd - 5 minutes from downtown Kelowna
magazine • WINTER 2010
19
A Gentleman’s Pleasure by Ian Payne
From the gruff cigar-chomping portrait of Winston Churchill staunchly leading the British through the Second World War to the iconic international spy, James Bond, boldly puffing in the face the danger, smoking a cigar confers a gentlemanly status of wealth, power and prestige. Often made by hand and imported from exotic locations, cigar aficionados enjoy complexities of taste, aroma, and texture that are delicately wrapped within every layer. A fine hand rolled cigar is made of three types of leaves. The filler is the heart of the cigar, the cigar’s distinctive flavours are produced here when differing types of leaves are skillfully blended. The binder is the strength of the cigar. This handpicked leaf encompasses the filler. The wrapper is the final leaf, which thinly layers the binder, but does not add any flavour to the cigar; it stands as a symbol of the cigar’s perfection. All of these elements should be considered when buying a cigar. 20
magazine • WINTER 2010
Like sipping a fine wine, tasting a cigar is a combination of tastes, aroma, and texture. Every make of cigar has its own flavour profile or palate. The flavour notes in cigars range from earthy and leathery tones, cocoas, espressos, to very sweet and spicy. When most people think of cigars they think of Cuba. The trade embargo placed on the country by the U.S. in 1962 restricted the availability to the American market and inadvertently bestowed the Cuban cigar an almost grail like quality; although a selection of the finest cigars actually come from the Dominican Republic and Honduras. Cigar manufacturers in these countries had the brilliance to use different combinations of tobacco leaves from several different countries. It is this mixture that produces some of the best cigars available. Today’s cigars range in price from five to 50 dollars.
The Honduran Gurkha is considered by many cigar enthusiasts as one of the most prestigious super-premium brands available. The Gurkha Black Dragon is the best example of what a luxury cigar should be and is typically sold with a price tag around $30. It is hand rolled in Honduras and is blended from an eight year old Connecticut midoro wrap, the finest Dominican fill, which is infused with Louis VIII Cognac and finally secured with a Cameroon binder, one of the most challenging leaves to roll. At the opposite end of the money scale is the Prodomo Winter cigar, typically sold fro less than $5. This cigar is small but mighty in flavour. Hailing from Nicaragua, this hand rolled cigar is perfect for novice and seasoned smokers alike. As the Okanagan embraces the quality of handcrafted local vintages and ports, the appearance of cigars is becoming more prevalent, especially on the ski hills, golf courses and lounges. More organic in composition than cigarettes, cigars are enjoying a quiet resurgence in social circles for both men and women who want to enjoy an occasional indulgence rather than commit to an addictive smoking habit. With ample information available through the Internet, magazines, and educated local retailers people can educate themselves about which cigar is the perfect match for their tastes and budget.
Okanagan Retailers Tobaccoland 521 Bernard Ave. Kelowna
The Perfect Port for a Fine Cigar La Frenz Liqueur Muscat N/V, BC, Canada A pale pinkish-orange in colour. The intense nose promises a lot with rose petals, raisin, rhubarb and caramel, only a touch of the 18.5% alcohol showing on the nose. The sweet palate has a balancing medium body and medium acidity. The aromas continue on to the palate with floral, raisin and intriguing spice and roasted chestnut. This wine is shaped after the famous Liqueur Muscats of Australia, which winemaker Jeff Martin made back home, and ends up being a beautiful light, delicate version that is very approachable and very drinkable. A thimble of this before turning out the lights guarantees sweet dreams. $20.00 (375ml)
Sumac Ridge Vintage Pipe 2005, BC, Canada Deep ruby-garnet colour. Medium-plus intensity with many flavours and aromas to warm the soul this winter. This wine is like a chocolate liqueur cherry with a slight aftertaste of Cuban cigar. The palate is sweet, medium-bodied and balanced with ripe black cherry, spice, chocolate, burlap and clove studded orange. This is a delicious winter warmer with the sweetness to stand up to a strong blue cheese or the smoky, subtleness of a cigar. $29.99 (500ml)
Minit Mart 107-1835 Dilworth Dr. Kelowna Gray Monk Odyssey III N/V, BC, Canada (500ml) Medium ruby-garnet colour with medium intensity aromas of light cherry, spice, raspberry, chocolate and nut. The palate is sweet with a medium body, cherry, spice and nut and a warming alcoholic finish. A touch heavy on the alcohol but should be nice with some roast chestnuts around the fireplace. $19.99 (500ml)
Photo: J.D. Wegner
The Okanagan’s only walk-in humidor is at Minit Mart.
Quails’ Gate Tawny Non-vintage, BC, Canada Medium ruby-garnet in colour. A subdued, closed aroma with subtle raisin, orange zest and nut. Some classic Tawny Port notes but lacks intensity. The palate is sweet with a medium body and some interesting flavours of roasted nuts, coffee, orange zest, cherry, choc-mint and a touch alcohol heat. Seems somewhat closed but with some great flavours to pair with a cheese board including dried fruits and nuts. $30.00 (375ml)
magazine • WINTER 2010
21
Photo: Courtesy of Sun Peaks Resort/Adam Stein
Slopeside Dining Ski hills serve up some savoury fare… by Steven Threndyle
Big White Ski Resort (Kelowna BC) This season Big White and Silver Star resorts are enhancing the dining experience for locals and visitors alike with the appearance of several new restaurants alongside the hill’s traditional favourites. With a simple classic interior, Gigi’s is named after long-time Big White resident Gigi Farrell. This tastefully designed Italianinspired new eatery completely renovated the former Chinese restaurant above the deli marketplace. Late night hunger pans and live entertainment are the recipe for success at Gigi’s. 6° Degrees is the perfect temperature for snow and champagne and with a cozy, tiny, dining room this newcomer to the hill will undoubtedly share six degrees of separation among its loyal patrons. It is located in the tony Stonebridge Lodge adjacent
22
magazine • WINTER 2010
to Big White’s Village Centre with perfect slopeside views. Long-time Big White restaurant specialist (Beano’s, Underground Pizza, Village Bakery) John Mooney and international executive chef Christopher Thomas (Cirque du Soleil) introduce an eclectic tapas style of dining for their breakfast, lunch, and dinner guests. For years, the ‘gold medal’ in Big White cuisine has gone to the Kettle Valley Steakhouse (KVS). Long regarded as one of the red-meat markets in the entire Okanagan, the KVS also houses an extensive wall of Okanagan wines, as well as top notch offerings from 6° Degrees is a swish new restaurant at Big White Photo: Courtesy of 6° Degrees Australia and the United States The “flight of wine” is a popular option – it’s Carvers restaurant features top-notch Indo-Canadian fare in a a ‘mini glass’ sampler of your choice of four premium-cellared cozy, family-friendly environment. Ruby and Aladdin at Carvers Okanagan reds, whites, or two of each. Red meat fans will are building on their wonderful Indian/African cuisine with many love the “baseball cut” sirloin steak, perhaps washed down new dishes. Carvers resumes its famous “Thalli Nights” with with a Mission Hill cab-merlot or Platinum Reserve meritage Bollywood Dancing every Tuesday night. from Cedar Creek. Gunbarrel Coffee at Snowshoe Sam’s is way more than just a tummy-warmer, ordering the Gunbarrel Coffee is a show in itself. Watch in awe as your waiter pulls up alongside your table with a shotgun and pours flaming Grand Marnier down the barrel into a glass prepared with brandy, cacao and whipped cream. The blue flames shooting down the gun-sights are a sight to behold, indeed. Now in its second season, Globe in Trapper’s Crossing is a sibling restaurant of Globe at Sun Peaks. It’s a bit out of the way – over in the Trapper’s Crossing building where the candy store is located (your kids will know that place), but it’s well worth seeking out. Panini sandwiches and home-made soups are the specialty for lunch, while in late afternoon Globe serves up tapas featuring B.C. scallops, wild mushrooms and many other delicacies. The Swiss Bear in the Chateau Big White has hired wellknown chef Judith Knight to take charge of the kitchen. Judith is perfectly suited for this quality restaurant where tasty selections from Thai seafood curry to wild B.C. salmon are available while local favourites like the Cheese Fondue for Two and German Sauerbrauten remain on the menu.
magazine • WINTER 2010
23
Silver Star Mountain Resort (Vernon BC) With its bright Alpine inspired colours and wooden boardwalks, Silver Star Mountain Resort is truly one of Canada’s most vibrant winter vacation destinations. Currently there are a dozen dining options offering everything from cafeteria burgers in the Town Hall to superb steaks at the Silver Grill. Canadian cuisine with a bit of a Dutch twist can be experienced at the Bulldog, an Amsterdam-style cafe that features “bitterballen” – minced beef short ribs, mixed with thickened chicken Veloute, crumbed and deep fried and served with Dutch mustard, and Uitsmijter, an open-face grilled Gouda and ham sandwich. Keeping on the Dutch theme, Frank at Bugaboos bakes the freshest, flakiest (and most buttery) croissants you’ve ever eaten and the indulgence is truly only complete with a piping hot chocolate or mocha. The aromas emanating from this boardwalk cafe defy any resolution of dieting. Perhaps the most adventurous dining experience, though, is the special snowshoe/sleigh ride combo tour offered by Outdoor Discoveries, a Vernon-based wilderness tour company. Take a snowshoe tour from the resort out to the Wild Horseman’s Cabin and enjoy hearty, home-style cuisine (or even a chocolate fondue on special occasions), and then bundle up for a horse-drawn sleigh ride back to Silver Star village. This all-inclusive package provides snowshoes, headlamps, guided tour, buffet dinner non-alcoholic beverages and the sleigh ride.
Photo: Courtesy of Silver Star Mountain Resort/Morton Byskov 24
magazine • WINTER 2010
4 bedroom, lakefront homes each with boat slip and lift and amenities including salt water swimming pool, hot tub, private sandy beach and 8 acres of vineyard maintained by Quails’ Gate Estate Winery. Waterfront is proud to acknowledge Savour as its official Okanagan lifestyle publication.
ou
ch
er
-S 97 Y HW
Savour... living here!
WEST KELOWNA
KELOWNA
ie R oad
... living is here B
OKANAGAN LAKE
Call 1-866-582-1999 www.kelownalakefront.com/savour Showhome Location: 1457 Green Bay Road, West Kelowna, BC
designed and developed by Trasolini Chetner Construction - winner of the 2008 CHBA National SAM Award for New Homes - www.traschet.com C9 / M89 / Y75 / K0
K100
magazine • WINTER 2010
25
If all you’re looking for is a hearty burger, sandwich or bowl of chilli to keep you going Long John’s Pub (children are permitted) offers table service pub food that will replenish your body and restore your soul. A big winner here is their pulled-pork sandwich.
Sun Peaks Resort (Kamloops BC) The Delta flagship property at Sun Peaks introduces M Room, a dining venue that will become the Delta’s signature restaurant during the ski season and will open for private parties, weddings and special events the rest of the year. Executive chef David Tombs offers fine dining that highlights regional fresh cuisine that is set to rival some of the province’s best restaurants. The resort’s first Irish-inspired pub is called Morrissey’s Public House. Overlooking the peaks of Mt. Morrissey, the Delta’s second dining addition is a fun, casual eatery where visitors can drop in on any given night of the year to surf their laptop with WIFI, play a game of darts, test their memory with interactive trivia or watch live sporting events in high definition. Comfort food is on the menu and bartenders boast they’ll not only know your favourite drink, they’ll also know your name. Cheers!
The Kettle Valley Steakhouse
Photo: J.D.Wegner
In the Delta’s lower lobby, Mantles Restaurant and Lounge has undergone some changes. A fire pit and seating area on the patio overlooking the slopes is a welcome addition to Mantles’ family-friendly restaurant and a new tapas menu is featured in the adult oriented après ski lounge. The tapas theme continues at the Globe Café and Tapas Bar in Kookaburra Lodge. A second location from Big White Ski Resort, and again, inspired by the owners’ travels and love of fabulous tastes from around the world. Paul from Ireland, Jude from England and Executive Chef Ross from Canada have developed an ambience, a menu and a style that is both casually up market but warm and welcoming with no fuss, no rush and no rules.
Apex Mountain Resort (Penticton BC) by Leisha Jones Simmering pots of seafood, perfumed with the scent of basil and oregano, may take you away to the Italian Coast or the Greek Islands – but the recently opened Tempest Room at the Apex Mountain Inn, brings the Mediterranean flare to the mountain dining scene. Specializing in prime rib, lamb and seafood including your favourite Greek appies and entrées served in a war m friendly atmosphere. Open Tuesday - Saturday Lunch from 11am - 2pm Dinner from 5pm - 9pm
250.454.9907
875 Anders Rd., Lakeview Heights Plaza (off Boucherie Rd. 26
magazine • WINTER 2010
Head chef Genevieve DeBries, formerly of The Patio at Lake Breeze, says she draws inspiration from the warm weather climates and the deep, smoky flavours of the Southwest. Affiliated with Lake Breeze Vineyards the restaurant boasts a mostly local wine list to match the menu, which Genevieve says features seafood, pasta and warming fare.
DRESSED UP & READY TO GO! For dinner out, a family gathering, home parties or kicking back at the cabin, Tinhorn Creek has the wines for the occasion. Celebrating our 15th anniversary with a fresh look, we are proud to show you our 100% estate-grown varietal line up and Oldfield Series wines. At Tinhorn Creek we sustainably farm our land and create wines of merit. Our 150 acres of vineyards are located on two unique and diverse south Okanagan sites: the Golden Mile and the Black Sage bench. Our ability to blend the grapes from these vineyards and capture the best characteristics of each site sets us apart. Visit our spectacular estate winery in Oliver, BC and experience for yourself. We will welcome you with open arms. NATURALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN www.tinhorn.com
Photo: Courtesy of Sun Peaks Resort/Adam Stein
Manager Lyndie Hill says the staff have a real passion for the mountain, having lived and worked on Apex for years. “It is a warm place for everybody to come in from the cold and enjoy,” she says. “We want to please people, give them a classy, beautiful place where they can eat great food.” With skiers and snowboarders from around the world visiting Okanagan resorts it is very apparent that their international culinary preferences are making a welcome appearance in the mountain dining rooms and changing the daily everyday dish to some spicy new drama on the slopes.
Restaurant Listings Info: Big White Ski Resort — www.bigwhite.com Silver Star Mountain Ski Resort — www.skisilverstar.com Sun Peaks Ski Resort — www.sunpeaksresort.com Apex Ski Resort — www.apexresort.com magazine • WINTER 2010
27
Global Perspectives by
Ingo Grady
Wine Education in the Okanagan Let’s face it, we live in wine country. For some of us the many pleasures of wine (and food) are a daily necessity. Wine culture immersion can be both enlightening and fun. Whether you play music, cook seriously, or garden with passion, these pursuits may not be considered vital, but they enrich our lives. Passion is always worth the effort. That’s why wine lovers learn to taste. I call it ‘attentive drinking’! Deliberate tasting versus casual imbibing adds a deeper dimension to the daily routine of eating and drinking.
28
magazine • WINTER 2010
Yes, it’s all about the pursuit of pleasurable moments and turning a banal repast into a celebration of life. Whether you’re starting to learn about wine (or would like to), or you’ve been wine collecting for years, there are a number of wine courses available that will raise your enjoyment of wine to the next level. Here’s where you can learn to get more out of each sip and share the fun within a convivial and winesavvy atmosphere.
Wine Education Homework was never this much fun! UBC OKANAGAN WINE SCHOOL
WINE & SPIRIT EDUCATION TRUST
Mission Hill Family Estate
UBC Okanagan
Kelowna & Penticton
Wine Fundamentals Certificate Level 1
WSET Foundation Certificate
NONE
NONE
WSET Intermediate Certificate WSET Intermediate Certificate
eight evenings (24 hrs)
five days, Monday-Friday (32 hrs)
nine weeks (22.5 hrs)
$600
$920 with WSET exam, $850 without
$770
Ingo Grady
Rhys Pender and UBCO faculty
Rhys Pender
WHEN
Jan 5th | Apr 5th | Sep 6th
Aug-10
NOTEWORTHY
held at a beautiful winery
includes field trips to vineyards/wineries
CONTENT
courses are inter-related & progressive int’l grape varieties, grape growing
basics of winemaking, grape growing
winemaking, grape growing
winemaking, wine & food pairing
sensory analysis, wine & food pairing
major grape varieties
TASTINGS
seven tastings with six wines
many – in class and in wineries
eight tastings with six wines
GLASSES
provided
provided
tasting pack $45
FINAL EXAM
included
optional
optional; additional $105
provided, text available on-line
maps, tasting sheets, glossary
maps, tasting sheets, glossary
COURSE NAME LOCATION LEVEL PREREQUISITE LENGTH PRICE EXPERT FACILITATOR
WORKSHEETS
INTERNATIONAL SOMMELIER GUILD
www.missionhillwinery.com Email: igrady@missionhillwinery.com
inquire, multiple dates/options avail. Rhys is a Master of Wine check out the tasting series!
www.ubc.ca/okanagan/ continuingstudies Email: ccs.ubco@ubc.ca
www.wineplus.ca Email: rhys@wineplus.ca
magazine • WINTER 2010
29
Burrowing Owl Estate Winery
Winter Wine Touring
caught in the embrace of canada’s warmest welcome by Joyce D Wegner
30
magazine • WINTER 2010
Photo: Gord Wylie
“…this is the perfect time of year to cleanse your palate and pucker your lips for some serious and unhurried sampling…”
It’s the last weekend in November and as the first rays of the autumn sun melts away a fragile early morning frost I am heading to the warmer climate of the south Okanagan to commence my winter wine tour. Patti Ogden, owner of Okanagan Wine Tours, is behind the wheel of her luxurious white Ford Expedition Max, escorting me through the southern valley to experience the delights of exploring wineries while they snuggle in for a quieter season. After an extremely hectic summer hosting tourists and processing the bounty of the autumn harvest, the wineries heave a collective sigh as they prepare for shorter days, longer nights, and less traffic arriving at their door. For travelers wishing to avoid crowded tasting bars, high season room rates, and lineups for wineinspired culinary experiences, this is the perfect time of year to cleanse your palate and pucker your lips for some serious and unhurried sampling of bold Bordeaux blends, crisp pinots, and a bevy of toasted, buttery winter whites. Patti turns west at the Okanagan Falls junction and we’re traveling along White Lake Road. It’s a narrow, winding ribbon of asphalt that curves around stands of towering ponderosa pines and chubby blue spruce trees before ascending the rolling hills to See Ya Later Ranch Winery. To our surprise two large mule deer appear in the vineyard as we arrive. I scramble out of the vehicle in a failed attempt to capture them in the lens of my camera. The large bucks effortlessly leap out of range so I change my photo op to the pet friendly signage in the parking lot. If you’re a dog lover than this ranch-style winery is the one for you. The building is the restored and renovated home of Major Hugh Fraser, one of the valley’s earliest pioneers. The Major was an avid animal lover who adored dogs, especially his rough coat
Scottish collies. In tribute to his passion for his pups, the winery “unleashes” a selection of award-winning vintages named after the major’s favourites. Being a lifelong member of the tail wagger club I am delighted with this concept. My first sample was named after Nelly, a delicious blended white that tasted like a ripe sip of summer on this cool autumn day. Jimmy My Pal derives its smooth flavor from a weighted balance of Chardonnay with Pinot Gris. It is a great hound of a wine that would bring pleasant company to a hearty dinner of roast chicken. Ping, the major’s first dog, was a magnificent Chow and this namesake wine is a rich meritage of the classic Bordeaux blend. The winery’s angel inspired pup is a legacy to the Major’s dedication to his faithful companions that are all buried in a private pet cemetery overlooking the valley just beyond the pathway to the front gate. We return to the country road driving through grange land and vineyards separated by peeled pole fences in a cozy, colourful patchwork of scrub grass, tall, skinny pines, and orderly rows of naked vines shrouded at the roots by a tattered crinoline of discarded muddy leaves. The brilliant sun hangs low in the autumn sky and sets the outdoors ablaze, bathing the valley in impressionistic intensity. Mother Nature mimics Monet with brushstrokes of ocher, sage and azure, creating a breathtaking landscape portrait infused by transient light that flows through the frame of our moving windshield. We are on our way to the city of Osoyoos to enjoy a wine inspired lunch at the new Wine Bar at Watermark Beach Resort. The home of Canada’s “Warmest Welcome” is growing from a sleepy, summertime community to an all season collection of gourmet magazine • WINTER 2010
31
Watermark Wine Bar at Watermark Beach Resort
chefs, international wine makers, and artisans. The Wine Bar is already proving to be a favourite local’s watering hole even though the expansive waterfront patio has yet to be open for its first summer season. The menu is a presentation of genius with an economic and eclectic selection of Tasting Plates that are simple for sharing and only $5 each – perfect for a quick nosh with a glass of wine. A wide arrange of entrees feature a range of dishes from ‘Baked Mac and Cheese’ to ‘Roasted Beet Salad’ and ‘Steamed Salt Spring Island Mussels’. The wine list offers a pleasing number of Okanagan vintages with a nod to a few international labels to suit every taste. The atmosphere is so delightful I could sit, nosh, drink wine, and stare at the gorgeous lake views for the rest of the afternoon; however, Patti has arranged another tasting at Road 13 Vineyards in Oliver’s famous Golden Mile. The brick and turret castle architecture of Road 13 is a rare architectural style in the valley. The cachet of starting a business in the Okanagan is that besides being ripe with fresh produce and tree fruit, the valley is also abundant with quirky historical references. The Honest John label of Road 13 is a salute to Mayor John Oliver who arrived in the valley in the 1920s and implemented a system of irrigation canals that allowed farming to thrive. “It’s all about the dirt,” is their motto, offered up by locally-grown winemaker, Michael Barter. A few sips from his labours is all the persuasion you’ll need to make sure you don’t leave the 32
magazine • WINTER 2010
Photo: Watermark Beach Resort/Allen Jones
“The atmosphere is so delightful I could sit, nosh, drink wine, and stare at the gorgeous lake views for the rest of the afternoon …” wine shop empty handed. Affectionately called, “Tuesday night spaghetti wine,” the Honest John’s Red serves up soft tannins and acidity that will perform valiantly beside a flavourful tomato based pasta. Across the highway and only minutes away, Burrowing Owl Winery rises up from a sea of vineyards like a landlocked cruise ship – a spectacular landmark in the South Okanagan. Owners Jim and Midge Wyse purchased the expansive property just as winemaking was on the cusp of a sea of change. Built in 1998, the winery’s signature Adobe influenced architecture was one of the first in the valley to embrace responsible environmental and wildlife practices. Named after the Burrowing Owl that once nested prodigiously in this desert setting; the winery is a keen supporter of the Burrowing Owl Conservation Society and suggests patrons donate $2 for each tasting towards funding this organization. Kerri McNolty, marketing representative for the winery is waiting to greet us when we arrive. “Welcome to Burrowing Owl,” she says as she steps from behind the check-in desk at the winery’s
The Guest House at Burrowing Owl
Photo: J.D.Wegner newest addition - The Guest House. Attached to the tasting room this cozy accommodation features ten spacious guest rooms, a 25-meter outdoor pool and an all season hot tub. Kerri’s tour and knowledge of the winery is extensive. “We encourage all of our visitors to take the time to enjoy our selfguided tour in our lookout tower,” she says as she leads me up the concrete stairs. “It’s a valuable learning tool for them to not only appreciate how we make our wine, but also to understand the respect we have for our surroundings.” The view from the lookout encompasses the south Okanagan Valley, stretching from the municipal boundaries of the town of Oliver in the north to the tip of Lake Osoyoos in the south with miles of vineyards, orchards, and farmland in between. Dotted by homes and wineries, the South Okanagan and Similkameen have over 25 VQA wineries and a number of smaller, estate wineries that are part of the ‘Hidden Wineries of BC’. Tremendously varied in architecture and size, each facility features varietals that are crafted into vintages from a collection of talented and worldly winemakers. Wine touring in the Okanagan can easily stretch from a relaxing drive on a lazy summer afternoon visiting two or four tasting rooms to an organized shopping spree that lasts a week and stocks your cellar for a year. After our tour of the facility, Kerri and I return to the Sonora Room Restaurant where Patti and I are invited for dinner. The gorgeous 60-seat restaurant offers outstanding views, exemplary service, and gourmet prepared wine inspired entrees for lunch and dinner. Famished, I order the roasted Heirloom tomato soup to start,
with a grilled six ounce Alberta Flat Iron steak for my entrée. Patti sticks to lighter fare with two appetizers, the Caesar Salad as her first course and her favourite, the Fraser Valley Crispy Duck Leg Confit, as her main dish. Following the recommendations on the menu, we share a bottle of the winery’s 2007 Syrah. The dark plum and cherry nuances of the Syrah partnered extremely well with our selections prompting us to choose a dessert that will provide a lovely finish to such a delectable bottle. We share the Raspberry White Chocolate Cream Brulée. It is a scrumptious choice to complete our memorable feast. Patti, in her wine touring wisdom, assures me that a stint in the hot tub melts all unwanted calories away if done within 24 hours of ingestion. So, with our waistlines pleasantly plump from our recent decadence we head for a therapeutic soak under starry skies. Vowing that we’d never eat again we tuck into our cozy beds; yet we can’t resist Iris’ magnificent spread in the Breakfast Room the next morning. A harvest table laden with fresh fruit, granola, carrot cake, multigrain bread and bagels for toasting plus mini-mushroom soufflés awaited our selection. Did I mention the muffins? Yummy, homemade muffins stuffed with pecans, walnuts, bran buds and sweetened with golden raisins and cranberries fetchingly piled high in a dish screaming “Taste Me.” Iris admits that her muffins are the most popular item at the breakfast table. “I didn’t realize how much our guests liked them until I stopped serving them. Then the complaints started,” magazine • WINTER 2010
33
Only in the Okanagan and especially after the crazy, busy days of harvest does a visitor have the great fortune to preview vintages straight from the tanks or barrels of the cellar. “I have the greatest job in the world,” Bill enthuses as we clink our glasses together in a merry toast to the newest member of his tasting room - Fairview Cellars 2008 Crooked Post Pinot Noir hand-picked from Eagle Bluff Estates Vineyard.
Sonora Room Restaurant at Burrowing Owl Winery
“…the great fortune to preview vintages straight from the tanks or barrels of the cellar.” she laughs. “I’ve been asked for the recipe numerous times, but it’s not something that I encourage.” (Muffin Recipe - Page 57) With our tummies full once again, we depart the grandeur of Burrowing Owl for a visit to the humble log cabin tasting room of Fairview Cellars. Bill Eggert, resident winemaker of Fairview, has carved out a niche market in the valley’s wine world by focusing solely on growing and producing reds. His vintages are available online or at select restaurants and retail outlets such as the BC Wine Museum and the Penticton Wine Information Centre. Visiting Bill’s tiny crowded tasting room is always an experience. And this trip is no exception. “I have a surprise for you,” Bill winks as he pops the cork off an unlabeled bottle that appears from beneath the bar. He pours Patti and I a taste that, at first glance, resembles a Rosé. It presents with a pale garnet complexion but, mysteriously, has the nose of a Pinot. “You’re bottling a Pinot Noir?” I ask. “Yes, this is my very first vintage.” Bill grins. Proud of his new endeavour Bill invites us down to his cellar to do some barrel tasting. With glasses in hand we navigate down the dark stairway where an inventory of French and American barrels are stacked floor-to-ceiling beside large stainless steel tanks percolating juice through fermentation into wine. 34
magazine • WINTER 2010
Photo: J.D.Wegner
A half-case of Bill’s finest vintages join the growing inventory in the back of the Expedition as we pull out of his driveway to begin our journey home. Although we did not stop at many wineries our pace was relaxed, allowing me plenty of time for thorough tastings, unhurried conversation and outstanding photo ops.
Winter wine touring is an ideal nearby escape from the doldrums of our prolonged chilly season. Wrap yourself up in the embrace of Canada’s warmest welcome with a visit to the city of Osoyoos and its friendly neighbours and wineries throughout the South Okanagan.
If you go • Not all wineries are open full time from November to April, so call ahead to ensure that the tasting room will be open when you arrive • It is strongly recommended that self-guided tours include a designated driver. • Wine Tour Operators offer winter wine tours throughout the Okanagan that can include: overnight stays, culinary experiences and/or wine-inspired lunches and dinners. Burrowing Owl Vineyard — www.bovwine.ca Destination Osoyoos — www.destinationosoyoos.ca Fairview Cellars — www.fairviewcellars.ca Okanagan Wine Country Tours — www.okwinetours.com Road 13 Vineyards — www.road13vineyards.com See Ya Later Ranch Winery — www.sylranch.com South Okanagan Winery Association — www.sowasite.com Watermark Beach Resort — www.watermarkbeachresort.com
For all your Audio/Video, Security and Home Automation Desires, In Tune Sound and Security, Your Experts!
Crescendo at Big White. Sound and Security done by In Tune Sound & Security
Residential & Commercial
• Custom Design, Prewire & Installation of THX Theatre Rooms, Multi-room Audio Systems, Home Automation, Security Systems & Monitoring, Lighting, HVAC Control, CCTV Systems, Access Control, Network SystemsTel, Cable & Internet Distribution, Intercom Systems, LCD/Plasma Flatscreens, Music Servers & Satellite Radio, System Upgrades & Evaluations.
Home Automation
• Lighting Control , HVAC Control, Irrigation Control, Offsite Internet Access.
Security
• Burglar Alarms, Fire Alarms, Access Control, Surveillance Cameras, 24 Hour Monitors.
Your Complete A/V, Security & Automation Specialists sonos • angstrom • hai
250.870.8407 | 1958 Kirschner Roadmagazine | www.in-tune.ca • WINTER 2010 35
Tribute to Tradition by Dona Sturmanis
These long-lived Okanagan dining etablishments have kept customers coming back for 15 + years. A handful of Valley restaurants have survived and even thrived over the years. Some of them are my personal favourites as well as of other happy diners. These five are family run, serve up familiar food, ambience, friendly service, and have a European flair.
Photo: Courtesy of Theo’s
Great Greek “We keep things the same and find new ways to do that,” says Nikos Theodosakis, owner of Greek-style Theo’s in Penticton. “People know what to expect.” This well-loved restaurant was opened by his parents Theo and Mary in 1976. “The items on the menu at that time were somewhat foreign, but eventually became successful.”
Photo: Courtesy of Theo’s
I became first became a fan of Theo’s in 1992, when I moved to the Okanagan from Vancouver, where first-rate Greek food is in abundance. The fare was authentic (crispy, chewy squid, rich garlicky hummus), the atmosphere appropriately Mediterranean (think sun-baked villa) and the service familiar and friendly. The memorable night I visited Theo’s, there was also Greek music, dancing and plate-smashing. Theo’s hasn’t changed much, just gotten better with age. It is still a culinary institution of the Okanagan, attracting faithful locals and tourists, many of whom have considered the restaurant their headquarters for family celebrations over the generations. “It’s an honour to be considered so much of peoples’ lives,” says Theo. The wine list has become more extensive; the Greek menu has expanded to include Okanagan-Mediterranean dishes (incorporating fresh local ingredients). Recommended: Theo’s Platter for Two ($46.95) with all the favourite Greek treats from souvlaki to spanakotiropita (spinach pie), and kalamarakia, fried squid ($8.95). Theo’s Restaurant, 687 Main Street, Penticton 250.492.4019, www.eatsquid.com 36
magazine • WINTER 2010
Seafood Central Christopher’s Steak and Seafood has been a favourite gathering place for Kelowna diners since 1989. Opened by Nick and Maria Sintichakis, it was taken over three years ago by Alex Ram, when Maria wanted to retire. The hardworking Alex, who had worked other family restaurants says, “I renovated and brought new life into it.” “Our main draw is unbelievable seafood,” says the recent owner of the restaurant that has won many awards over the years. Steak and international dishes from Asian to Italian are also on the menu. “We also have an elegant, comfortable and earthy setting.” Christopher’s is open late and features live entertainment Tuesday through Saturday. Recommended: the generous seafood platter –crab legs, lobster tails, prawns, scallops and mussels– $59 for one; $99 for two or Chateaubriand for two with sides, a mouthwatering, elegant bargain at $69.
Photo: Courtesy of Christopher’s Steak & Seafood
242 Lawrence Avenue, Kelowna, 250.861.3464 www.christophersrestaurant.ca
Mamma’s Italian Kitchen Consistency and foolproof food is also a secret of traditional Italian La Bussola in Kelowna. Like Theo’s, it’s another restaurant with a family history and a respectable provenance. “You get the same thing every time you are here,” says on-top-of-it Luigi Coccaro, son of owners Franco and his wife Lauretta. Franco and Lillo Santamaria first opened the restaurant in 1974 –Kelowna’s first true Italian-style fine dining experience. Laura took over as chef and co-owner in 1990, expanding the menu to include more local culinary offerings. The restaurant has also added a more extensive wine list.
Sophisticasual collector to casual wines, spirits & beer Photos: Courtesy of La Bussola
A recent personal dinner at La Bussola proved to be a leisurely evening of tranquil candle light ambience, well-timed elegant service and superb Italian favourites. Recommended: Veal with ham, cheese, mushroom rose sauce and jumbo prawns ($33.95); add scampi (garlic shrimp in garlic and butter sauce) to anything for $18.95. 1451 Ellis Street, Kelowna, 250.763.3110 www.labussolarestaurant.com
funky crystal and unique gift ideas extensive collection of local wines
103-1180 Sunset Dr. Kelowna, BC 250-979-1222
metroliquor.com magazine • WINTER 2010
37
German Generosity
Soak up some ‘Cuisine of the Sun’
Gasthaus-On-the-Lake, a popular Peachland German-European style restaurant and pub, has thrived since 1991. “We’re almost at 20 years. We keep on top of things,” says partner Werner Schmidt simply. “We have German, Italian and Canadian chefs. We cater to our year-round regulars and tourists in the summer.” This is a typical understatement for Werner, who with partners Joerg Hoerath and Devon Smith, expanded the Gasthaus from a quaint log dining room to include a vast timbered pub-restaurant and a summer-friendly outdoor patio 10 years ago –all with a lake view. Another draw in recent years has been the Gasthaus’s famous Medieval feast, great for a group who wants to experience a hefty, meat-hearty period-themed feed.
This is a dining experience not to be missed! 4205 Gellatly Rd, West Kelowna 250-707-1810 www.bonfirerestaurant.ca 38
magazine • WINTER 2010
Call for Reservations or visit www.opentable.com
The Gasthaus is my go-to eatery in Peachland. There have been countless schnitzel-laden dinners with luscious homemade desserts in the curio-filled dining room, Werner and Joerg always available for a chat. There’s the simpler, but delicious fare during cozy winter evenings in the pub with a roaring fireplace (superb soups) and sun-baked lunches on the casual stone patio. Recommended: Any one of eight schnitzels for dinner (there’s a whole selection under $20) with homemade spaetzle on the side, spinach salad with bacon and mushrooms for lunch ($10). 5790 Beach Avenue, Peachland, 250.767.6625 www.gasthaus.ca
Historic and Homey Zia’s Stonehouse Restaurant in Summerland is situated in one of the Okanagan’s most fascinating and unique heritage buildings, originally built by renowned Okanagan stonemason Alfredo Biagioni in 1916. The locals even believe it is haunted.
Codfathers
Seafood Market
Ghost legends and a heritage feel may bring in the regulars to Zia’s, but so does a personal approach to food. “We’re very hands-on here,” says co-owner Shannon Ferlizza. “We like to think we cook with love. We keep our prices low and serve good portions.” The original Stonehouse Restaurant opened in 1979 and operated until the mid ‘90s. Shannon and her husband bought and expanded the building and restaurant in 1997. I visit Zia’s for casual lunch or a more formal dinner whenever I go to Summerland. The service is attentive, menu is eclectic and international. Recommended: Red curry Thai chicken sautéed with onions and peppers ($12.95) for lunch; prawns and scallops sautéed with mushrooms, green peppercorns and diced tomatoes ($21) for dinner, and always the chef’s popular daily specials. 14015 Rosedale Avenue, Summerland, 250.494.1105 www.ziasstonehouse.com
Southern Hospitality
Codfather’s offers one of the largest selections of fresh fish and seafood in the Okanagan.
2355 Gordon Drive Kelowna, BC 250-763-3474
www.codfathers.ca A proud member of the Ocean Wise program.
come and discover your . . .
Campo Marina owner Mike Orand is at his welcoming Osoyoos restaurant practically every evening, bopping from table to table, greeting his customers and making sure they are happy. Old-fashioned hospitality in addition to comfy food and service are trademark here. “Advertising can’t top word-of-mouth recommendations by locals,” says the European-trained chef and owner. “You have to know your customers and what they want. You also have to be able to reinvent yourself with the times.” Mike started Campo Marina in the spring of 1994, specializing in Italian comfort fare (lots of tomato sauce). Since then, he and his wife Gemma and attentive staff have provided familiar and filling meals to remember in a warm atmosphere. I have spent several evenings at Campo Marina in the last five years. Every time I’ve been there, the cozy restaurant is packed with locals and I’ve left after several hours fulfilled in more ways than just a full belly. Recommended for dinner: 22-ounce baby back rib, $22.95; 22-ounce veal medallion with marsala mushroom sauce, $22.95. 5907 Main Street, Penticton, 250.495.7650 www.campomarina.com
"a friendly and welcoming place to linger and peruse the selections of import and regional specialty food products."
culinary inspirations gourmet & speciality foods
ph: 250.832.1585 170 McLeod Street, Salmon Arm , BC www.culinaryinspirations.ca
magazine • WINTER 2010
39
Join us for a wonderful night of food, wine and fun. This is the first in a series of dining events that Savour Magazine will be hosting. Chef Jonathan Thauberger has created a menu specifically tailored for this event. Join Passa Tempos’ owner, Paul LeGrange, Savour Magazines’ Editor Joyce D. Wegner and a secret guest for this wonderful evening. The team at Passa Tempo Restaurant and Savour Magazine look forward to pampering you, wining and dining you till your hearts content. Dine with Savour will be a popular series of dining events held throughout the Okanagan. Seats are limited so book now to avoid disappointment.
Where: Passa Tempo Restaurant At Spirit Ridge 1200 Rancher Creek Road, Osoyoos, BC When: 7pm, Saturday January 30, 2010 Price: $99 (dinner and wines only) Dinner and Accomadation packages Available
To Book: Call 250-495-8007 or email info@savourmag.com Credit card payment required at the time of booking. Cancellation policy applies.
Sleeping Vineyards by Rhys Pender
Picking Icewine at Paradise Ranch, Naramata Photo: Courtesy of BC Wine Institute
A sleepy-eyed glance at the clock shows 4 am, the phone is ringing and the cold air outside of the warm bedding is already crisp, even inside the house. With a groan he starts dressing, layer after layer of clothes, warm boots, a toque and a heavy, windproof jacket. Reluctantly he starts the truck, which groans and complains in the cold temperatures before the engine kicks in and he is off. He is off to the vineyard in the middle of the night, in the middle of the winter, called in to action by the temperature alarm with a mission to save the precious vines. This is the seasonal life of the vineyard manager, the unsung hero who ensures that next year there will be grapes and wine. The vineyard landscape in the bleakness of the frozen valley is a lonely place. The vines, devoid of their leaves, look dead, lost and forgotten. This lack of activity and conspicuous vineyard setting gives the impression that there is little happening as the vines
appear to be hibernating until they feel the warming of the soil in the spring. But the winter is an important stage in the annual vineyard cycle, in fact a stage of life and death that can determine the fate and fortunes of grape growers and winemakers. The vines we grow in the Okanagan for wine are, for the most part, a fairly fickle bunch. They adore hot summers, but shudder at the thought of standing exposed throughout a long, bitter winter. The Canadian wine regions are all located at the critical extreme for growing grapes with winter temperatures regularly pushing the vinifera wine grapes to their threshold. Take a grape variety such as Syrah. It is increasingly being recognized for producing many of B.C.’s best red wines yet it does not like Canadian winters and a man versus nature battle is emerging. Some vineyards saw Syrah yields drop 40-60% in 2009 as a result of our chilly climate. magazine • WINTER 2010
41
Winterscape at Tantalus Vineyards
Over recent years we may have become a little overconfident and bold, planting a range of grape varieties in Canada that is really testing the limit of possibility. Global warming may have changed the climate of our growing regions allowing a wider range of grape varieties, but the side effect of global warming is greater extremes. In the winter of 2008/2009 we received a reminder of this with temperatures dipping as low as -26° on December 20 and threatening to bring the industry to its knees. The last major freeze of this nature was in the 1980s and winemakers were terrified at what, if anything, would emerge from the buds when spring returned. Thankfully, the majority of buds did materialize into wine-worthy shoots.
“The vineyard landscape in the bleakness of the frozen valley is a lonely place.” If temperatures get too cold (generally below -20°C in the dead of winter) and the vines have not had enough chance to put away food reserves, the future vintage’s shoots (imagine a tiny shoot in each bud ready to emerge) prepared to push out in the spring can be literally frozen to death. The result –no shoots, no grapes, no wine.
42
magazine • WINTER 2010
Photo: Courtesy of BC Wine Institute
In 2008/2009 certain varieties and certain areas of the Okanagan and Similkameen were lucky, others were not. The damage was as unpredictable as global warming itself, doing significant harm to some varieties in one place and missing another variety altogether a short distance away. Yield loss overall varied between 5 and 40% with some vines killed completely. Larry Plett, production insurance manager for the ministry of agriculture stated that $20 million in damage claims were processed due to bud break and young vines not surviving their first cold season. So what is the connection? Is the key to a vine’s survival the grower and how they nurture the vines to harden them up for the winter? Or is it the vineyard site or a combination of these things? Certain sites are always going to be better protected from winter extremes than others. Anywhere near a large body of water or a fast flowing river will provide some protection, either from the slow heating and cooling of the water or the air movement that seems to keep temperatures a few degrees higher. What is becoming increasingly important though, is how the vines are treated throughout the growing season, with many of the vineyard decisions now being made with the preparation for winter in mind. Canada may be at the edge of the wine world, but due to the climate, it has been thrust to the forefront of handling severe cold.
“To avoid winter damage the winemaker needs to get things right from the start.” So what is it that these grape growers do to ensure that the vines once again push forth their shoots to produce the wines that we so eagerly await?
For Grant Stanley, winemaker at Quails’ Gate, it is about good health going into the winter. “If you aim for small crops the grapes ripen earlier, the wine is better, the vines have time to harden off and they are better able to stand up to the winter,” explains Stanley. “It’s a win-win.”
To avoid winter damage the winemaker needs to get things right from the start. “The best technique is to plant your vines on the right spot,” says Road 13 Vineyards winemaker Mike Bartier. In spite of that wisdom there are still occasions in this northern climate when that is not enough. The vineyard manager tries to create balanced growth and encourage early maturation of the fruit to allow the vine to harden off to prepare for winter.
Of course, cold temperatures in some cases can be important and essential. Canada’s most famous wine, icewine, would not be possible without living on the climatic edge. Nonetheless, -20°C is too cold to make icewine. Bugs, pests and diseases are also sensitive to cold temperatures, so a healthy freeze can do a good job in cleaning up the vineyard. Even though there are benefits we are flirting with frigid conditions that can be devastating.
Techniques include soaking the soil to provide a better insulation for the vine roots, spraying copper to help harden the buds or use some hill soil over the vine graft to protect it. Some viticulturists are starting to use wind machines to provide air movement and hopefully gain a few precious degrees of warmth. The learning continues.
While most of us are tucked safely away this winter, hibernating from the cold, there is a brave and committed bunch out in the vineyards ensuring the vines’ survival and the wines of the vintages to come. The vines may be sleeping, but those charged with looking after them are certainly not. So let us hope for a mild winter.
magazine • WINTER 2010
43
Restaurant Review The Vintage Room at Coast Capri Hotel by Chef Steve Marston
Walking into the Vintage Room is like going to meet an old friend, as it has remained on the culinary landscape of Kelowna for decades. The traditional dining room evokes a warm and welcoming feel with soft lighting, rich furnishings and tables cloaked in classic white linens surrounded by oak paneling. In its early days, the Vintage Room was ‘the hub’ for business lunches and the quintessential romantic destination where young men regularly dropped to one knee with marriage proposals and champagne flowed with celebratory flare. From sealing the deal to popping the question, the Vintage Room was the place to be seen and to make history in Kelowna. Over the years, the Vintage Room has weathered the influx of the new culinary culture in the Okanagan with the distinct advantage of its location within the Coast Capri Hotel. In 2003 Chef Monika Lauterbacher, certified Chef du Cuisine took the helm of this iconic dining room, creating menus that reflected the Okanagan season with a bounty of fresh local produce and products. From traditional prime rib with Stilton Yorkshire pudding to Okanagan-grown bison served with local blueberries and a Cedar Creek Pinot Noir reduction, as well as a wide variety of fresh fish and seafood, the menu offers broad choices to suit many tastes. There is also a good wine list with ample representation of the Okanagan’s best wines with an eclectic nod to both new and old world wines; all priced very conservatively. 44
magazine • WINTER 2010
“… the Vintage Room was the place to be seen and to make history in Kelowna.” On this wintry evening it appears people are taking a break from dining out as there is only four other tables occupied. I choose a cozy table in the corner. Unfortunately, the music, a toe-tapping jazzy theme, is distractingly loud and intrusive, negating my aspirations of a quiet, lovely dinner. I decide to start the evening with the herb seared bison capriccio accompanied by golden and rainbow beets. The bison is simply layered over two-thirds of the plate with the beets in a martini glass; an interesting presentation. The bison was a little over chilled making it very soft to eat. My entrée is a duo of roasted rack of lamb and flame grilled, lamb sirloin accompanied by soft polenta, minted jus, flame grilled red skin potato, spaghetti squash, sweet potato and more beets. The flavours are bold and punchy, but it is the cooking and resting of the lamb that brings the dish together and this is done perfectly. I also order the mahi and prawns: baked cashew crusted mahi fillet with potato-wrapped B.C. spot prawns, Szechuan pepperspiked, sticky rice, mango curry and coconut lemon grass foam, taro root chips. To add some dimension to presentation of this dish the prawns are secured on top of the mahi with yet another starch – mashed potatoes. The flavours came together well and the fish and shrimps are cooked nicely. The addition of colourful, crisp vegetables to both of these dishes would have added a tasty balance and an appealing vibrancy.
Where memories are made.
My dessert is an irresistible choice of the Okanagan apple purse: sliced apples, almonds, oats, cinnamon and spiced rum, served warm in a golden puff pastry case with vanilla bean ice cream, quince gellée jellyand caramel sauce. On a cold winter’s evening this is the perfect salute to our valley’s signature fruit. However, it arrives in a surprisingly large proportion that could be described as more of a designer bag than a purse.
“The flavours came together well and the fish and shrimps are cooked nicely.” Perhaps I took too long in devouring my dessert because within minutes of clearing away my plate, my server presents me with the bill without the standard invite for coffee or an after-dinner liqueur. This is quite a shame really as up to this point the service had been friendly and efficient without being overbearing. And just as the last of the diners have disappeared so has my server. I am left to track down someone to accept payment for my meal. Once the epitome of fine dining in the Okanagan, The Vintage Room continues to evoke many cherished memories that are tucked deeply in the hearts of long term residents of the valley. The Vintage Room, 1171 Harvey Avenue, Kelowna, British Columbia Tel: 250-860-6060
Clarification: In the Fall Issue review of Local Lounge & Grille, Chef Paul Cecconi received his early training at The Beach House Restaurant in West Vancouver, not the Boat House as stated within the article.
3762 Lakeshore Road, Kelowna, B.C. 250.860.4488 www.manteo.com
8:45 a.m. Chef Bernard in the Wild Apple dining room checking on the guests’ breakfasts. magazine • WINTER 2010
45
Tasting Notes
by Rhys Pender
Romantic Reds
Winter Whites
Mission Hill Quatrain 2006, BC, Canada
Stoneboat Pinot Gris 2008, BC, Canada
A deep ruby colour with pronounced, seductive aromas. Unlike many other Mission Hill wines designed for maturation, the Quatrain is ready to drink immediately with a fantastic combination of spice, pepper, raspberry, oak, plum and a valentine-ready violet perfume. The palate is dry and full with balanced acidity and medium tannins with chocolate, plum, blueberry, spice and pepper. This Syrah dominated blend is as soft and plush as a velvet pillow that will hold its shape and beauty for at least 3-6+ years. $45.00
B.C.’s favourite white grape variety. Pale lemon with good intensity and more complexity than your stock standard Pinot Gris. The Stoneboat provides the usual pear, stone fruit, green melon and citrus, but adds some extra savory, earthy, mineral and spice elements that make this a step up from what most are doing. A great texture and flavour with aspects of terroir make this a really interesting wine. $18.90
Nk’Mip Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 2007, BC, Canada
Cedar Creek Syrah 2007, BC, Canada The first Cedar Creek Syrah under the new brand makeover, the 2007 is deep ruby-purple in colour with good intensity and alluring aromas of game meat, bacon and pepper combined with pretty floral, damson plum and blueberry. The palate is dry and medium-bodied with pleasing acidity and tannins with hints of pepper, blackberry, and pronounced oak. Romance in this particular red will need two to three years to meld into a satisfying affair. $26.90
Pale-medium lemon colour. The nose is medium-plus intensity with rich toasty oak, lemon, peach, banana and snow pea. The palate is dry, quite full with ripe, rich fruit, intense custardy, caramelly oak and peach, lemon and nice mineral notes. A hint of malolactic fermentation gives some buttery notes. Well made Chardonnay in the oaky style with the richness to help us survive the winter chill. $24.99
Thornhaven Gewürztraminer 2008, BC, Canada Burrowing Owl Cabernet Franc 2007, BC, Canada Cabernet Franc is the red grape that many B.C. critics believe is the future of the Okanagan. Burrowing Owl’s has always been one of the best. The 2007 is deep ruby in colour with aromas of burlap and earth combined with raspberry, marzipan and custardy oak. The dry palate shows a medium body, acid and tannin with lots of chocolatey oak, blackberry, clove, plum, jam, pepper, coffee and sausage with an Okanagan-terroir roasted herbal finish. A match made in heaven. $33.00
Painted Rock Red Icon 2007, BC, Canada Deep purple in colour with pronounced intensity. The nose is a complex melding of aromas that intrigue and delight with dusty oak, plum, cassis, chocolate, raspberry, a hint of flowers and some roasted sage. The palate is dry with a medium-plus body, plum, cassis, dark cherry and ripe tannins with grilled herb and savory notes. This is a true love that will stay faithful for years in the cellar. $55.00
46
magazine • WINTER 2010
One of the wineries to watch over the next few years, Thornhaven is producing some very serious wines and the Gewürz is probably the most serious. Pale lemon in colour, this wine packs a real punch, challenging its Alsatian counterparts for richness, intensity and complexity. It is pronounced in aroma with rose petal, lychee, peach, mango and Asian spices. The palate is off-dry and rich, full with seductive flavours of tropical fruit, flowers, citrus and great length. This is the most serious Gewürztraminer yet to emerge from B.C. $17.90
Road 13 Vineyards Viognier, Roussane, Marsanne 2008, BC, Canada A new but exciting style for the Okanagan. Pale lemon in colour with pronounced intensity. These Rhône varieties provide beautiful floral, nutty, citrus aromas with some very intriguing and alluring savory and nutty notes. The dry palate is quite rich in texture with a complex range of citrus, peach, grape fruit, celery, nut, passion fruit, melon and lingering mineral flavours. This wine is excellent with great flavour complexity and length. Hard to find, but a worthy treasure hunt in our darkest season. $23.99 375 ml500 ml500 ml,500 ml375 ml, of ic, 375 ml
DISCOVER THE GREAT ESTATES THIS WINTER ENJOY A VIP TASTING EXPERIENCE AT 5 AWARD WINNING WINERIES Suggested Winter Itinerary Day 2
Day 1 10:30 am
Specialty Tasting at Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate
12:00 pm
Specialty Tasting at See Ya Later Ranch
1:00 pm
Free Time for Lunch
4:30 pm
Specialty Tasting at Sumac Ridge Estate Winery
10:00 am
Wine Flight Tasting including Icewine at Inniskillin Okanagan
11:30 am
Lunch on own
1:00 pm
Cultural Tour and Tasting at Nk’Mip Cellars
Purchase your “DISCOVERY PASS” at participating wineries for just $35.00 Pass includes souvenir gift and passport book with $50 worth of coupons.
t 250 494.0451 sumacridge.com
t 250 497.8267 sylranch.com
t 250 495.2985 nkmipcellars.com
t 250 498.6663 inniskillin.com
t 250 498.4500 jacksontriggswinery.com
Please call for winter winery hours. 1 877 433 0451 great.estates@vincor.ca greatestatesokanagan.comx
magazine • WINTER 2010
47
Cookbook Review
There are two types of people in this world: those who will spend many hours (if not a couple of days) recreating restaurant-style dishes from cookbooks written by chefs, and those who won’t. I tend to be the latter.
by Jennifer Cockrall-King
Isn’t that what restaurants are there for anyway, to wow us with these rather complicated but tasty noshes that we simply wouldn’t dream of attempting at home? Then again, sometimes a cookbook comes along that nudges cooks like me out of our comfort zone and keeps pushing our culinary limits as long as the results are worth the fuss and time. Vancouver Cooks 2 is one such book. Editors Joan Cross, Andrew Morrison and Jamie Maw surely had a daunting task of drawing out recipes from some of B.C.’s busiest and best chefs, but the result is an approachable and practical 244-page softcover book. It contains 112 recipes from 70 B.C. chefs, illustrated with 60 colour and 100 black and white photos. The Okanagan, despite the cookbook’s title, is even represented thanks to contributions from chef Bernard Casavant, formerly of the Sonora Room at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery (Osoyoos), recently appointed as executive chef of The Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge at Manteo Resort (Kelowna), chef Matt Batey of the Mission Hill Family Estate Winery (West Kelowna), and chef Ned Bell of the Cabana Bar and Grille (Kelowna). Each recipe entry is cleverly paired with a beverage suggestion, most of which are Okanagan wines. Some of the recipes are devilishly complex. One entry spans three entire pages: a Berkshire pork tenderloin and crispy belly “duo” served with sauerkraut, horseradish coleslaw and mustard pork jus, but that’s if you try to recreate the entire dish as it might appear on DB Moderne’s dinner menu. But many are not, such as the sake-miso-andsweet rice wine marinated sablefish recipe from Masaaki Tsujimoto of Hapa Izakaya restaurant in Vancouver. (There are five ingredients and a one-short paragraph method to this insanely delish dish.)
Vancouver Cooks 2 Published by Douglas & McIntyre Edited by Joan Cross, Andrew Morrison and Jamie Maw Softcover $40.00
Available for purchase Mosaic Books - Okanagan 250-763-4418 Barbara Jo’s Books to Cooks - Vancouver 604-688-6755
48
magazine • WINTER 2010
As I cooked through a number of the recipes, it became clear to me that shortcuts could be had. It wasn’t necessary to make all the elements, but instead I cherry-picked which components I felt were necessary (usually the main ingredient of the plate) and skipped the others. For instance, my guests and unwitting taste-testers one evening were completely unaware that the jalapeño ketchup and the roasted garlic mayonnaise were missing from the Ned Bell’s Smoked Cheddar Bison Burgers. Yet, the consensus was that the burgers were excellent. Still if I ever need a recipe for jalapeño ketchup, I now have one at the ready! At $40, this cookbook is somewhat pricey, but consider how much more mileage you’ll get out of it than a similarly priced entrée at a posh big city eatery. You’ll also be contributing to the future of good food in B.C. Royalties from the sale of Vancouver Cooks 2 go to the Chefs’ Table Scholarship and Bursary Fund. This is a B.C.-wide collaborative that promises to inspire, educate and nurture our chefs, our producers and our local food industry, all the while promoting standards of excellence with the aim of enhancing the reputation of our regional cuisine. I’ll cook to that.
Recipes Halibut with Morels and Brown Butter Sauce See recipe on page 50
magazine • WINTER 2010
49
Halibut with Morels and Brown Butter Sauce Parsley and Garlic Pommes Puree, Braised Lettuce and Peas Brown Butter 1lb butter, unsalted Parsley and Garlic Pommes Puree 4 cups milk ½ cup olive oil 6 cloves garlic, peeled 4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes peeled, in 1-inch dice 3Tbsp finely chopped Italian flat leaf parsley Lettuce and Peas 1Tbsp butter 3oz smoked bacon in ¼ inch dice 12 pearl onions blanched and peeled 1 yellow carrot blanched, in ¼ inch dice 1 orange carrot blanched in ¼ inch dice 2 small gem lettuces, cut in half 2 sprigs thyme ½ cup chicken stock ½ cup frozen peas Halibut 4 fillets halibut, each 6oz, cut into 2 escalopes each Flour for dredging 4Tbsp olive oil 1Tbsp butter Brown Butter Sauce ¼ cup + 2/3 cup brown butter, plus extra for garnish 1lb morel mushroom, halved ½ cup fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp soy sauce ½ cup brown veal jus or dark chicken stock (made with roasted bones)
Created by: Chef Andrey Durbach, Pied Á Terre Vacouver Cooks2
Halibut, with its snowy white, non-oily flesh, is a perfect foil for the morel and brown butter sauce. Serves 4 Brown Butter: Melt butter in a small, deep, heavy-bottomed pot on low heat. Stir constantly and be careful not to let it burn; wait patiently for about 10 minutes for butter to become a deep rich hazelnut brown. Decant the clear brown butter carefully, leaving behind the dark debris at the bottom of the pot. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean container and discard solids. Cover and refrigerate. (You will not need all of the brown butter for this recipe, but it will keep refrigerated longer than unsalted butter because the milk solids have been eliminated. Brown butter is delicious on steamed vegetables.) Parsley and Garlic Pommes Puree: Place milk, oil and garlic in a large pot on medium heat and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to low and cook for 10 to 12 minutes or until garlic is soft. Add potatoes and cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until soft. Drain potatoes and reserve the cooking liquid. While potatoes are hot, mash them vigorously, then whip in a stand mixer (or with a hand-held beater), adding back enough of the reserved cooking liquid to make the potato mixture soft but not runny. Pass the potato mixture through a finemesh sieve for extra smoothness, if desired. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Fold in parsley just before serving. Lettuce and Peas: Preheat the oven to 425o F. Melt butter in a wide, shallow ovenproof frying pan on medium-high heat. Add bacon, onions, and yellow and orange carrots, then sauté for 1 minute. Add lettuces, thyme and stock, then bring to a boil. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and bake in the oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until carrots are tender. Return the frying pan to the stovetop on medium heat, add frozen peas and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until done. Drain and discard any excess liquid. Remove and discard thyme. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Halibut Season fish with salt and pepper: Lightly dredge fish in flour, then shake off the excess. Heat oil and butter in a large non-stick frying pan on medium heat, just until butter begins to brown. Add fish and sauté gently for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, or until just done (the fish should be soft to the touch and still slightly opaque in the centre.) Brown Butter Sauce: Make this sauce at the last minute. Heat ¼ cup of the brown butter in a frying pan on medium-high heat. Add morels and sauté for several minutes, or until soft. Stir in remaining 2/3 cup of the brown butter, and boil again to emulsify. Season to taste with salt and pepper. To Serve: Place pommes puree in the centre of each warmed plate and top with two pieces of fish. Arrange vegetables around the edge, keeping within the rim of the plate. Garnish with a drizzle of brown butter sauce. Wine Recommendation
Nk’ Mip Cellars Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay 50
magazine • WINTER 2010
Chicken Breasts and Thighs in Clove, Black Cardamom and Yogurt Curry In this recipe, we cook the chicken two ways. We oven braise the chicken thighs, as the darker meat is juicier and soaks in the spices, as well as lending flavour to the broth. We marinate and grill the chicken breasts to retain the succulence of the white meat. Serve it with Red Bell Peppers and Shallot Curry and basmati rice. Black cardamom is available at any Indian grocer. We prefer the optional dried ground ginger (known as soond) to fresh, if available; if you use soond, break any clumps into a powder. Serves 6 to 8. Chicken Breasts: Toss together chicken with oil, salt, cumin, coriander, cayenne pepper, paprika and ginger. (Do not use fresh ginger in this part of the recipe, as it will burn when you grill the chicken later.) Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours. o Chicken Thighs: Preheat the oven to 375 F. Mix together yogurt, tomatoes, salt, cayenne pepper, coriander, cumin, paprika, ginger, celery seed, cloves, black cardamom seeds, garlic and oil in a casserole dish. Add chicken thighs. Add water, mix well, cover and bake in the oven for about 40 minutes, or until chicken is tender and juices run a clear yellow. Remove from the oven and keep covered until ready to serve. If the thighs are very large, cut them in half to serve. Once chicken thighs have been in the oven for about 35 minutes, start grilling the chicken breasts. To Finish Chicken Breasts: Preheat a barbecue or a stovetop ridged grill pan on high. Oil the grill, then grill chicken for 4 to 5 minutes. Flip over and grill for another 4 or 5 minutes, or until juices run a clear yellow. Slice each half breast on the diagonal into three pieces. To Serve: Place a portion of basmati rice in the middle of each large warmed bowl. Arrange a chicken thigh and a piece of grilled chicken breast on top of the rice. Ladle ½ to ¾ cup of the Red Bell Pepper and Shallot Curry around the chicken and rice. Wine Recommendation
Sandhill Estate Vineyard Small Lots Barbera
Chicken Breasts 1½ lbs boneless chicken half breasts, trimmed of fat, skin on or off 1/3-cup canola oil 1 Tbsp salt 1Tbsp ground cumin 1 Tbsp ground coriander 1 tsp ground cayenne pepper 1 Tbsp paprika 1 tsp ground dried ginger (optional) Chicken Thighs 1½ cups yogurt, stirred well 1½ cups pureed canned tomatoes 1½ tsp ground cayenne pepper 1 Tbsp + 1tsp salt 2 Tbsp ground coriander 3 Tbsp ground cumin 1 Tbsp + 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp ground dried ginger or 2 Tbsp + 2 tsp finely chopped fresh ginger 1 Tbsp celery seed 10 cloves 3 or 4 pods black cardamom, seeds only 7 large cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tsp canola oil 1 ½ lbs chicken thighs, boneless, skinless, trimmed of fat 1 cup water Created by: Chef Vikram Vij, VIJ’s Vancouver Cooks2 magazine • WINTER 2010
51
Photo: Shawn Talbot 52
magazine • WINTER 2010
Slow Roasted Duck Breast with Prune and Red Wine Reduction
1 1/2 cups of semi-dry red wine 8 pitted dried prunes, roughly chopped 2 tbsp white sugar 2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 1/2 cup chicken or beef stock 2 (4- to 6-ounce) duck breasts 1 tsp salt 3 tsp coarsely ground black pepper
Created by: Chef Abul Adame Amante Bistro
In a medium saucepan, combine the wine, prunes, sugar, balsamic vinegar and stock over medium-low heat. Let simmer (do not boil) until the liquid is reduced by half of its original volume. It should be thicker than water, but thinner than liquid honey. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350o F. Season both sides of the duck breasts with the salt and pepper. Heat an ovenproof skillet (avoid Teflon nonstick due to the high temperature) over high heat. When pan is hot, add duck breasts, skin side down, and cook for five minutes, or just until skin starts to brown and crisp. Transfer the skillet to the oven and continue to cook the duck in the oven for another five minutes. Remove from oven and let the duck rest for two to three minutes before slicing each breast at an angle to make four or five slices from each breast. Create a puddle with the sauce in the middle of each plate. Fan the slices of the breast on the sauce. Serve hot with any vegetables of your choice.
Wine Recommendation
Blue Mountain 2005 Pinot Noir
magazine • WINTER 2010
53
Sweet Sherry Braised Figs with Baby Arugula Salad Drizzled with Honey-Balsamic Vinaigrette
Photo: Shawn Talbot
2 tbsp unsalted butter 6 fresh figs, washed and cut in half lengthwise 3/4 cup sweet sherry 1 tbsp brown sugar
In a medium saucepan, heat the unsalted butter over low heat. Add the figs and sweet sherry. Cook gently for five minutes. Add the brown sugar. Cover and let simmer for five minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar 1/4 cup liquid honey 2 tablespoons finely diced shallots 1/4 tsp white pepper 1/2 tsp sea salt 1/2 cup of extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp fresh thyme, very finely chopped 4 1/2 ounces fresh baby arugula, about 3 to 4 cups, washed and dried Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese curls, shaved with a vegetable peeler into wide ribbons.
In a bowl, blend together balsamic vinegar, honey, shallots, pepper, salt, olive oil and fresh thyme. Reserve two to three tablespoons of the vinaigrette and set aside.
Created by: Chef Abul Adame Amante Bistro
54
magazine • WINTER 2010
Just before serving, combine the vinaigrette with the arugula. On a rectangular plate, mound a generous handful of the salad in the middle of both plates. Arrange three fig-halves to the side of the salad on both plates. Drizzle the remaining vinaigrette over the figs and the salad. Garnish with a few curls of shaved parmigianoregianno cheese. Serve immediately.
Wine Recommendation
Orofino 2008 Reisling
*Poached pears can be made a day in advance. In fact, they are better when made the day before serving.
Photo: Shawn Talbot
Merlot-Poached Pear and Berries in a Callebaut Chocolate Sauce with Vanilla Bean Gelato Poached Pears (very firm, about one week away from ripening) 2 Bartlett pears peeled but leave the stem for decoration 3 cups merlot 2/3 cup white sugar Poached Berries 1 cup of frozen berries, NO strawberries 1 cup merlot 1/4 cup white sugar Peel of 1 lemon Chocolate Sauce 7 ounces Callebaut semi-sweet chocolate 1 cup whipping cream Created by: Chef Abul Adame Amante Bistro
To make the pears: combine the wine and sugar in a not-too-wide pot on low heat. Immerse the peeled pears in the wine. It is important that the pears are completely covered; if not, add enough wine to cover. Cook the pears very gently on low heat, uncovered, for about 10 to 15 minutes. The pears should be slightly soft to the touch. Remove from pot from heat and set aside. Let the pears cool in the wine. If you make the poached pears a day ahead, store the pears in the wine in the fridge, but bring them up to room temperature to serve. To make the berries: in a medium pot on low heat, combine the merlot, white sugar, lemon peel and frozen berries. Simmer gently for five minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. To make the chocolate sauce: chop the chocolate with a sharp chef’s knife into small, crumbly pieces. Place them in the top of a double-boiler (with water boiling underneath) and melt the chocolate over med-high heat. Add the cream to the chocolate, and stir to combine fully. Remove the chocolate from the heat and set aside. To serve: on both plates, add a generous dollop of chocolate sauce right in the middle. Stand one pear, stem up, per plate in the chocolate sauce. Garnish with the poached berries and a scoop of ice cream. Serve immediately while the chocolate sauce is slightly warm. Wine Recommendation
Forbidden Fruit 2008 Plumiscuous
magazine • WINTER 2010
55
Pear Almond Tart with Black Currant Jam If you cannot find black currant purée, use huckleberries or organic blueberries. Combine 1 cup berries with 1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp sugar in a pot on medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stir and remove from the heat. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, discarding solids. Kalamansi is a small citrus fruit similar to lime mixed with tangerine. The purée is sold at Filipino grocers. If you can’t find it, use lime juice. Shortbread: Cream together sugar, butter and salt in a bowl. Add flour without overmixing the dough. Add only enough egg, mixing gently, to hold the dough together. Gather the dough into a ball and flatten, then wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for a minimum of 1 hour. Black Currant Jam: Combine black currant purée and sugar in a pot on medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stir and remove from the heat. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve, discard solids and allow to cool before using. Almond Cream: Have all of the ingredients at room temperature. Use a stand mixer with a paddle attachment to cream together butter and sugar. Remove the bowl from the mixer. Combine ground almonds and cornstarch in another bowl. Alternately add almond mixture and beaten eggs to the butter mixture, stirring just until combined. Kalamansi-poached Pears: To make the poaching liquid, pour sugar into a heavy pot on medium heat and do not stir. As the sugar begins to caramelize, shake and swirl the pan gently to prevent the sugar from burning in any one spot. Once the sugar has melted into a rich caramel brown, deglaze the pan slowly and carefully with water, as the mixture will splatter. Stir until sugar is totally dissolved. Add star anise, vanilla beans and kalamansi purée. Peel and core pears, add to the poaching liquid, then simmer until tender. Remove from the heat and place a plate over the pears to keep them submerged in the poaching liquid as they cool. o To Assemble: Preheat the oven to 325 F. On a lightly floured surface, roll out shortbread dough into a circle 11 1/2 inches in diameter and 1/8-inch thick. Use it to line a 9-inch tart pan (with removable bottom). Cut off excess dough and crimp around the edge.
Pipe or spread black currant jam on the bottom of the tart. Next, pipe or spread a layer of almond cream to within three-quarters of the top. Cut poached pears in half, then slice each half vertically into eight pieces. Keeping the slices together, arrange pears on top of almond cream to cover. Sprinkle the top with slivered almonds and a dusting of cinnamon. Bake in the oven for 45 to 60 minutes, or until the centre of the tart is set. Remove from the oven. To Serve Serve the tart at room temperature. Cut into eight wedges and place each on a warmed serving plate. Wine Recommendation
Inniskillin Winery Riesling Icewine 56
magazine • WINTER 2010
Shortbread 1/3 cup sugar 3/4 cup butter Pinch of salt 11/2 cup + 2 Tbsp all purpose flour 1 egg, beaten, only half of which may be needed Black Currant Jam 1/2 cup black currant purée 1/2 cup + 2 Tbsp sugar Almond Cream 3/4 cup + 1 Tbsp (7 oz) unsalted butter 11/2 cups + 2 Tbsp icing sugar 11/2 cups blanched ground almonds 2 Tbsp cornstarch 2 large eggs, beaten 2 to 3 Tbsp slivered almonds for garnish Cinnamon for dusting Kalamansi-poached Pears 2 2/3 cups sugar 12 cups water 1 piece star anise 2 vanilla beans, slit lengthwise 1/2 cup kalamansi purée 5 Bartlett pears Serves 8 Created by: Chefs Thomas Haas and Esther Tso, Thomas Haas Fine Chocolates and Pátisserie Vancouver Cooks2
IRIS’ “OVER THE MOON” MUFFINS
This batter should be prepared the night before baking. Flavour improves with age and should last about a month in the fridge. 2 1/2 cups flour 3 cups Bran Buds 2 1/2 tsp. baking soda 1 tsp. salt 2 cups dark brown sugar 1 cup boiling water 1 cup canola oil 1/2 cup melted unsalted butter 2 cups buttermilk 3 eggs 1 tbsp. pure vanilla extract 1 1/2 cups mixture of golden raisins and dried cranberries 1 1/2 cups chopped pecans and walnuts Topping: 1/4 cup granulated sugar, 1/2 tsp. cinnamon, slivered almonds or pecans.
In a large bowl pour boiling water over 1 1/2 cups bran buds. Let stand while preparing rest of the batter. In separate large bowl add flour, rest of bran buds, salt, soda and stir to mix. In separate large bowl, beat oil , butter, eggs, brown sugar and vanilla. Add this mixture to soaked bran buds along with the buttermilk and beat well. Add fruit and nuts to dry ingredients to coat and then add the buttermilk mixture to this. Mix well. Let sit overnight in fridge. Preheat Oven to 400o F. Spoon muffin batter (2/3 full) into greased standard muffin pan and top with slivered almonds or pecans and a sprinkling of cinnamon sugar. Bake: 400o F for 20 to 25 minutes. Yield: Approximately 2 1/2 dozen.
magazine • WINTER 2010
57
Snowy Suds to Wash Away the Winter Blues by Leisha Jones
ALE
When the short, dark days of winter chase you indoors, under blankets and into a huddle by the fireplace, why not consider a robust beer to ease the frosty chill? A beer that is going to comfort you, warm you and stand up to hearty winter cuisine. At Tree Brewing in Kelowna, brewmaster Stefan Buhl understands the importance of such a beer. For the past 10 years the brewery has released limited-edition winter ales, improving and updating the recipe each season.
This year, the Spiced Reserve Ale, is festivity in a glass. On the nose, the strong cinnamon aroma is cozy and uplifting. The accompanying citrus, nutmeg and vanilla notes make this beer the perfect partner for leftover Christmas cake and honeyed ham on the bone. Released each winter, the Spy Porter is full and dark with a creamy chocolate aroma and mouth feel, achieved by using roasted malt. The Raspberry Porter, a variation of the popular Spy Porter, combines the classic pairing of chocolate and berries by adding raspberry concentrate to the boil and fermenting it with the beer. Stefan says both porters are a great match with desserts, the chocolate malts complementing sweet and rich flavours. The beers would also be an idyllic match with game meat – such as duck or venison, glazed in a stone fruit sauce. The Hop Head 45 Red Ale has a strong bitter flavour, balanced by the addition of chocolate malt. Stefan suggests it would be a perfect companion for spicy foods or dark meats. Where other beers would be lost against the bold flavours of an Indian or Thai curry, the bitterness of the Hop Head 45 Red Ale commands an inviting presence to the palate.
Craft Brewers in the Okanagan Tree Brewing Company 1083 Richter Street 250-717-1091 www.treebeer.com
Mill Creek Brewery (Freddy’s Brew Pub) 948 McCurdy Road, Kelowna 250-491-2695
Okanagan Spring Brewing Company 2801 - 17A Avenue, Vernon 1-800-652-0755 www.okspring.com
Cannery Brewing Company With a strong focus on supporting local community, the brewery recently released Black Tree Beer to support the B.C Fire ReLeaf program being led by Tree Canada. In support of the initiative Tree Brewing will provide a donation to Tree Canada for every bottle of Black Tree sold with an anticipated 7,200 trees planted as a result. This limited-release beer is a 60/40 blend of the Cutthroat Pale Ale and the Spy Porter. The Cutthroat provides the hops, while the Spy Porter offers a hint of chocolate – resulting in a full-bodied beer, with a refreshing and hoppy finish. Released in September 2009, Stefan says there has been huge support from local liquor stores so pick up your Black Tree Beer as soon as you can. 58
magazine • WINTER 2010
109 - 1475 Fairview Road, Penticton 250-493-2723 www.cannerbrewing.com
Tin Whistle Brewing Company 945 West Eckhardt Avenue, Penticton 250-770-1122
Crannóg Ales S6 C38 RR#1, Sorrento, BC 250-675-6847 email: brewery@crannogales.com
The Okanagan Wine
Festivals
Start Planning Your Visit to Okanagan Wine Country Okanagan Spring Wine Festival Savour spring and fine wine in the warm Okanagan sunshine. Described as “one of Canada’s best small festivals”, the Spring Festival is a perfect marriage of wine and culinary tourism. 2010: Apr 30 - May 9 2011: Apr 29 - May 8 2012: May 4 - 13 Okanagan Summer Wine Festival Held at Silver Star Mountain Resort come and treat yourself to an intimate weekend of wine education, arts, music, gourmet meals, winetasting and mile high outdoor recreation. 2010: Aug 5 - 7 2011: Aug 12 - 13 2012: Aug 10 - 11 Okanagan Fall Wine Festival This is the only wine festival in North America that takes place during the heart of grape harvest. Enjoy over 165 events throughout the valley including vineyard tours, lunches, dinners, events and the fall wine harvest. 2010: Oct 1 - Oct 10 2011: Sept 30 - 9 2012: Sept 28 - 7 Okanagan Winter Festival of Wine The most unique of all the festivals, the Winter Festival is held at Sun Peaks Resort. Enjoy winemasters dinners, educational seminars and a unique progressive tasting of acclaimed wines and world famous Okanagan Icewines. 2010: January 16 - 24 2011: January 19 - 23 2012: January 18 - 22 PURCHASE YOUR TICKETS TODAY! For more information on our four annual Okanagan Wine Festivals, contact www.thewinefestivals.com or email info@thewinefestivals.com or call 250-861-6654.
Access our site from your mobile www.owfs.mobi and follow us on twitter/OKWineFests magazine • WINTER 2010
59
We’re always on the move in the Okanagan! So this is the “spot” for restaurants, delis and markets that have caught our attention and deserve yours.
The Beat Bistro
Dolci Deli
Balti Curry comes to Canada
Made with love The Dolci Deli located in the heart of Osoyoos has roots that extend from Okanagan to the Swiss Alps. Proprietor Annina Hoffmeister with her husband and business partner, Joerg, proudly serve up their heritage in the tasty dishes and products available in their deli. Living on her parents’ farm in Bridesville, the couple have a rich source of ingredients to chose from.
Owner and chef John Bailey is a pioneer in bringing Balti curries to Canada. The origins of Balti owe much to China as it resembles the flavourful regional fare of Szechuan and Tibet with aromatic spices from Kashmir. Balti food is simple in concept, but complex in its flavours. It was established in Birmingham, England and is now the fastest growing food outlet in Great Britain. The Beat also offers an array of breakfast items that include a scrumptious breakfast wrap, freshly prepared salads using local ingredients, delectable appetizers and seasonal specials. The entire collection is always on the menu. Weekday Dinner Events: Thursday - Chef’s Table Dinner where guests are invited to feast on a multi-course meal – a pleasant alternative from ordering a la carte. Friday and Saturday - Balti Curry Nights feature a wide range of specialty or custom-ordered curry dishes accompanied by local live entertainment. 625 Old Vernon Road, Kelowna (next to World Beat Family Golf) Tuesdays: 10:00 am - 2:00 pm Wednesday-Saturday: 10:00 am - 2:00 pm & 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm 250-765-3281 www.thebeatbistro.com Iphone users: UrbanSpoon Fully Licensed
“We cure our meats at the farm. The process I learned from my dad. It is very traditional ‘Swiss’ old style,” explains Annina. Their pulled pork is slow smoked for 14 hours and served with their original slaw. Their homemade spaetzle, sprinkled with a spicy family recipe of Chorizo, is a favourite dish at this popular eatery. And visitors wanting to pack some local flavours home with them can purchase a variety of items such as their house dressing, jars of roasted apricot butter and vanilla bean sauce. The Hoffmeisters also grow their own herbs and garnishes in the backyard patio. Annina has created a signature for her dishes of fresh flower garnishes. All the flowers grown on the patio are edible, from scented geraniums, nasturtiums, and borretsch to a variety of pansies. Joerg prepares all of Dolci Deli’s breads and baked goods. He rises between 3:00 - 4:00 am to prepare another day’s bounty of fresh croissants, breads and desserts. A seven-time Iron Man competitor, Joerg appreciates the value of wholesome nutrition and ingredients. In addition to being a thriving deli Dolci caters winery events and 20 weddings this past summer. “We customize our menu to meet our client’s needs and budget,” reveals Annina. Says recent bride, Cherry Reynolds, “We especially enjoyed working with Dolci Cafe & Catering. They are so detail oriented that Annina perfectly matched the cupcake icing to my wedding colours.” 8710 Main Street, Osoyoos, BC Monday-Friday 8:30 am - 5:00 pm Saturday: 8:30 am - 2:00 pm 250-495-6807 www.dolcideli.com
60
magazine • WINTER 2010
Kekuli Café / Aboriginal Food & Catering Company
Dragons Lair Specialty Teas
“Don’t Panic … We Have Bannock!”
“Unplugged” every Saturday night! Owners Silver Leung and Andrew Lawton have created a relaxing respite in our hectic world. In their cozy tea shop guests can sample, purchase and sip from a selection of premium loose leaf teas imported from around the Photo: J.D.Wegner world. Guests are invited to have a “cuppa” or share a pot of their favourite blend while indulging in sweet delights such as cupcakes, cookies, and pastries baked and delivered daily.
Photo: Courtesy of Kekuli Café
Owners Sharon Bond and Darren Hogg have created an atmosphere of warmth and hospitality that reflects the original purpose of a Kekuli - a historical First Nation underground shelter where food was traditionally stored, prepared and shared by the community. Their menu is an eclectic offering that encompasses Aboriginal inspired cuisine such as bannock burgers, Indian tacos, and homemade soups to a selection of tasty items derived from Chef Patricia’s Jamaican roots. A local favourite is their fabulous Jamaican Latte with the Blue Mountain Instant Coffee. Beyond being a great nosh pit, the café has a gift gallery that supports local First Nation artists plus Aboriginal food items. There are jams and jellies from Siska Traditions in Lytton , Little Miss Chief smoked salmon and their very own roasted, organic, fair trade pit-house coffee. Check their website for special event listings. #505-3041 Louie Drive, West Kelowna, B.C. Monday - Friday 8:00 am - 7:00 pm Saturday: 9:00 am - 6:00 pm 250-808-7267 Free WiFi www.kekulicafe.com
Whimsical gift items to tickle your tea fancy, such as fine china teacups and exquisite teapots, adorn their shelves. You don’t have to be a tea aficionado to frequent the Dragons Lair as coffee is also on the brew. ‘Dragons Lair Unplugged’, which happens every Saturday night, features live musical entertainment. And as 2010 ushers in the Year of the Tiger, this Asian influenced establishment is planning some great events leading up to the Chinese New Year on February 14, 2010. Vintage View Centre, (Beside Kelly O’Bryans) 101-3466 Carrington Road, West Kelowna, BC Monday - Friday: 10:00am - 6:00pm, Saturday: 10:00am - 9:00pm Sunday: 11:00am - 5:00pm 250-452-9188 Facebook: @Dragons Lair www.dragonslairtea.ca
The Vanilla Pod on Main Street in Summerland - the perfect pairing of food and wine.
The VanillaPod Pod Vanilla
Tapas + Wine Bar
9917 Main St Summerland 250-494-8222 open from 5:30 phone or email for reservations vanillapod@shaw.ca
thevanillapod.ca magazine • WINTER 2010
61
Sweet Boutiques
by Leisha Jones
Scientists have proclaimed that women think of chocolate more often than sex, so if you’re angling for some romance this Valentine’s Day, bait your line with sweet sensations from any one of the Okanagan’s chocolatiers.
Spirit Truffles With Swiss heritage and a chocolatier for a grandfather Barbara Niklaus Scheuren has chocolate coursing through her blood. Upon moving to beautiful Okanagan wine country she became inspired to create a product that combined her two passions – chocolate and wine. Spirit Truffles are unique as they are filled with a wine-infused ganache rather than a liquid centre. With popular favourites such as the Cherry Port Truffle and Ice Wine Truffle, created with award-winning wines from wineries in Osoyoos, Oliver and Naramata Bench, these skillfully handcrafted truffles offer a distinct Okanagan flavour. Available at specialty stores throughout the Okanagan and online. 250.535.0213 www.spirittruffles.com
Photo: Courtesy of Spirit Truffles 62
magazine • WINTER 2010
Photo: Courtesy of Accent Chocolates
Accent Chocolate Owners Eva and Les are proud of their chocolates that celebrate what they call “the beautiful art of lovemaking.” Made with special moulds from Italy, the couple says its “naughty chocolates” that include male and female body parts and Karma Sutra positions – are especially popular on Valentine’s Day. With over 100 varieties of Belgian chocolates made fresh in-store each day, the duo pride themselves on quality, using genuine flavorings without adding any preservatives, or sugar. “We don’t raise the price around the holidays, the price is always the same and the quality is always there,” says Eva. 100-564 Main Street Penticton Monday to Saturday, 9am-5pm 250.492.2241 accentcafe@shaw.ca Bernard Callebaut Co-owner Duane Peters says all their products are made using “the best of everything from around the world.” With pistachios from Italy, almonds from California and organic cream and butter from Ontario, Peters confirms that the ingredients are natural and organic whenever possible, resulting in chocolate that is lower in sugar and higher in cocoa mass. With a wide range of interesting products – from an edible chocolate heart filled with chocolates for Valentine’s Day, to a local cherry soaked in liquor and coated in chocolate for Christmas – Bernard Callebaut always offers something unique and special for the holidays. Guisachan Village Mall, 113A, 2365 Gordon Drive, Kelowna Monday to Saturday, 9.30am-5.30pm. 250.862.2752 www.bernardcallebaut.com magazine • WINTER 2010
63
Cotton’s Chocolates In Barrita Durward’s “chocolate lab” Cotton’s Chocolates are made the old fashioned way – fresh, by hand and in small batches to ensure quality control. Barrita is a huge advocate for local products in the Okanagan. With fruit for the truffles purchased from Davison Orchards or the local farmers’ market she tries as much as possible to support others in the community. “That’s how we survive and stay strong.” Her comments are a testament as to why she is Vernon’s businesswoman of the year. Cotton’s Chocolates offers everything imaginable in moulded chocolates, and a range of truffles, including a special Valentine’s Day truffle filled with Baja Rosa liquor and strawberry ganache.
True Pleasure is only a Sip Away
105-3334 30th Avenue. Vernon Monday to Friday, 10.30-5.30 and Saturday 10.30-4.30. 250.503.2535 www.cottonschocolates.net Photo: Courtesy of Spirit Truffes
Eat Well Dine Well
An intimate spot for all occasions serving authentic Greek fare in an ambient setting. Call for Reservations 2437 Main Street, West Kelowna
250-707-1177 64
magazine • WINTER 2010
Specializing in all kinds of Seafood Owned and operated by Mike York Hardy Mobile Custom Catering Available Call for Details
250.718.4021
1763 Ross Rd., West Kelowna
www.fintasticlyfresh.com
Recipe Index
Vancouver Cooks2 cookbook p.50 Halibut with Morels and Brown Butter Sauce
Amante’s Restaurant p.52 Roasted Duck with Prune & Red Wine Reduction
p.51 Chicken Breasts & Thighs in Clove, Cardamom and Yogurt Curry
p.54 Figs in Sweet Sherry-Arugula Salad
p.56 Pear Almond Tart
p.55 Merlot Poached Pear with Berries in Callebaut Chocolate Sauce
p.57 Iris’ Over the Moon Muffins
For an updated Calendar of Events please visit - www.savourmag.com
Look like a star and cook like a pro in a SAVOUR Apron!
in your own home
dining with the Gods Bellwether of the Okanagan
Ned Bell
ISSUE 1. VOLUM
E 1.
4.95 CAN / 6.50 US
Guilty by Asso
to subscribe call: 250-863-4636 email: subscribe@savourmag.com online: www.savourmag.com
ciation
Politics or Pro
sperity?
Get yours today or send as a gift. Savour Strawberry/Chocolate is $25 ea. Sexy Savour Apron is $55 ea.
Call us @ 250.769 6550 Ext 18 or email: info@savourmag.com Ask for Joanne magazine • WINTER 2010
65
Conversions Wine Bottle Sizes In the U.S., the standard wine and spirit bottle size is 750ml, approximately 25.4 ounces. This is almost exactly equivalent to an American fifth (4/5 of a quart or 25.6 ounces). Other legal U.S. wine bottle sizes range from 100ml to 3 litres, and various bottle-size terms (including French bottle names) are sometimes used. Older spirit bottle descriptors (such as half-pint, pint, fifth and half-gallon) are no longer accurate for standard bottle sizes, although the fifth is so close in size that the term is still widely used.
Approximate Equivalents
U.S. Weights and Measures
1 quart (liquid) = about 1 litre 8 tablespoons = 4 ounces = 1/2 cup = 1 stick butter 1 cup all-purpose presifted flour = 5 ounces 1 cup stoneground yellow cornmeal = 4 1/2 ounces 1 cup granulated sugar = 8 ounces 1 cup brown sugar = 6 ounces 1 cup confectioners’ sugar = 41/2 ounces 1 large egg = 2 ounces = 1/4 cup = 4 tablespoons 1egg yolk = 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon 1 egg white = 2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons
1 pinch = less than 1/8 teaspoon (dry) 1 dash = 3 drops to 1/4 teaspoon (liquid) 3 teaspoons =1 tablespoon =1/2 ounce (liquid and dry) 2 tablespoons = 1 ounce (liquid and dry) 4 tablespoons = 2 ounces (liquid and dry) = 1/4 cup 5 1/3 tablespoons = 1/3 cup 16 tablespoons = 8 ounces = 1 cup =1/2 pound 1 cup = 8 ounces (liquid) = 1/2 pint 2 cups = 16 ounces (liquid) = 1 pint 4 cups = 32 ounces (liquid) = 2 pints = 1 quart 16 cups = 128 ounces (liquid) = 4 quarts = 1 gallon 1 quart = 2 pints (dry) 8 quarts = 1 peck (dry) 4 pecks = 1 bushel (dry)
Spirit Bottle Sizes (name corresponds with bottle size) 100 mL = 3.4 oz. 200 mL = 6.8 oz. 500 mL = 16.9 oz.
750 mL = 25.4 oz. 1 ltr = 33.8 oz 1.75 ltrs = 59.2 oz.
Common Bottle Terminology Miniature Split Half bottle 500 mL Bottle/750 mL One Litre Magnum Double Magnum Jeroboam (in Champagne, France) Rehoboam (in Champagne, France) Jeroboam (in Bordeaux, France) Methuselah (in Champagne, France) Imperial (in Bordeaux, France) Salmanazar Balthazar Nebuchadnezzar 66
magazine • WINTER 2010
Metric Measure
Fluid Ounces
100 mL 187 mL 375 mL 500 mL 750 mL 1 ltr 1.5 ltrs 3 ltrs
3.4 oz. 6.3 oz. 12.7 oz. 16.9 oz. 25.4 oz. 33.8 oz. 50.7 oz. 101.5 oz.
4.5 ltrs
152.2 oz.
6 ltrs 6 ltrs 9 ltrs 12 ltrs 15 ltrs
202.9 oz. 202.9 oz. 304.4 oz. 405.8 oz. 507.3 oz.
Watermark & Osoyoos - Together the Okanagan's Warmest Welcome
Located on 1000 ft of sandy beach in the heart of Osoyoos is Watermark Beach Resort. Wine Bar and Wine Bar Patio, Bistro, Dining Room, Patio and full service Conference Centre featuring local wine country cuisine. Enjoy gorgeous lake views from your suite and private balcony or townhome all with gourmet kitchens and fireplaces. Relax and enjoy our outdoor pool, waterslide, hot tubs, kids camp, media center and water sports - perfect for a weekend getaway, family vacation or reunion. Watermark is the perfect choice for your wedding. Local Food, Local Flair, Local Welcome
www.watermarkbeachresort.com www.ownwatermark.com