REALITY
BITES
ISSUE 1
REALITY BITES is a bi-annual publication that is a platform for different voices to explore the confusing and overwhelming idea of what it means to “grow-up”. It is personal / honest / heavy / light / inspirational / aspirational / angry / dreamy / angsty.
It is a fashion magazine with an honest response to life. It is an outlet that hopes to offer relief from the anxiety experienced by us “young adults”, through an exploration of our fantasies and realities. In creating a print publication that has taken time, devotion and thought, we are rejecting the notion that we are a generation who only consume imagery and information that is immediate and disposable.
cont ents
introduction 12
The Kid(ult)s Are(n’t) Alright
16
Adult?
safety and security 22 Whiskey, gambling and Ferraris are better than
housework.
self actualisation 94
Work don’t play
124 Interview - Sharmadean Reid
50 Stifled by the Freedom of Choice
126 Teetering Into a New Work Mentality
52 Interview . Sadie Williams
130 Interview - Bex Day
54 How to Switch from Booze to Bud 56 Interview - Ronan McKenzie
relationships and belonging 62 We do whatever we want 81
The place we are going to... I don’t want to get there
taste cultivation 138 The pressure of having to be charming incapacitates me 156 Re-Birth of the Cool
86 How to Fuck when Living with a Ton of Housemates
160 How to Seek Culture Outside of Netflix
88 Interview - Charles Hutton
162 Interview - Aidan Zamiri
editor’s letter When we were younger, we had a specific idea of what being an adult meant. We had an admittedly naive notion that one day we would simply wake-up and be a ‘Grown-Up’. A house, a job, a car, a CAT – we’d have it all. Our parents raised us to believe that anything is possible: a fashion journalist, fluent in Spanish, with a degree in law and neuroscience seemed reasonable. “If you can dream it, you can do it!” Thanks mum and dad for the most misleading advice ever. So if you’re anything like us, you seem to stumble through each day, celebrating each time you successfully “adult” (three cheers for those of us who paid their bills on time this month). It’s 2016 and our generation is entering unchartered waters. We are redefining what it means to be an adult.
People can go ahead and call us “lazy” and “entitled”, but we are making the best of what we’ve got. We’ve been dealt a pretty crap hand, and let’s not forget who got us here. We are picking up the pieces of the shit storm left by previous generations. We are riding out a huge economic crisis - that will probably leave us unable to ever own our own homes - while attempting to preserve a royally fucked up environment. There is the constant threat of global conflict, first ISIS, now the possibility of Trump reigning the White House, and on top of that, rising university fees. We are anxious, stressed and depressed, and it’s no wonder why. We have a lot to be pissed off about.
When faced with adversity, however, young people start to think more creatively. Working through our troubles can both relieve, and help us produce work with purpose and meaning. So, it’s not all doom and gloom, there are many of us excelling despite the odds stacked high against us. We are forced to curate our own employment, which pushes us to be more resourceful and innovative, scrapping old conventions. Out of a crumbling world and spiralling mental health can come a magnificent creative renaissance. This is our response, what is yours?
Becky and Bella
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The Kid(ult)s Are(n’t) Alright by Rebecca Burgum
We were involved in day-to-day decisions such as where would we like to go on holiday, or what would we like for dinner (incidentally making millennials the fussiest eaters on record), resulting in an attitude perhaps not of “I deserve it”, but more like “I can have it”.
This ‘we can have anything and be anything’ mentality, starts to become a problem when the possibilities seem literally limitless – millennials have the most decisions to make, and are the worst at making them. We are paralysed by choice and any kind of
Growing- up is confusing enough as it is, without all this ‘back-seat-living’. The day Baby Boomers stop telling us how to live will
decision-making, which makes ‘growing up’ effectively torturous.
be a very good day indeed.
Millennials, Netflix and Chill Generation, Generation Y, Generation “What’s the Wi-Fi password?” Whatever you want to call us, it
The Five Milestones of ‘Adulthood’ - American sociologist Kathleen Shaputis labelled millennials as the ‘boomerang’ or ‘Peter Pan’
basically means those of us born roughly between 1980 and 2000. We are bumbling along our journey to ‘adulthood’ trying to fit
generation, because of their perceived tendency for delaying some rites of passage into adulthood. Baby Boomers’ mollycoddling
into shoes, that haven’t been made yet. We are growing up in a completely different world to any generation before us, and traditional
parenting style might have a role to play in our delayed adulthood; we are the in-between generation, walking the blurred line between
roles expected of an adult, have changed dramatically. What does being an adult even mean anyway? Am I an adult because I can
childhood and ‘adulthood’, wondering on a daily basis, “Are we there yet?” Traditionally, the five milestones that have been used to
watch an 18+ film? If I still ring my mum when I have to make a trivial decision – does that mean I’m not? There are books, lectu-
define adulthood are : completing school, leaving home, becoming financially independent, marrying and having a first child. On average,
res, probably even masters degrees revolving around ‘What’s next?’ for Generation Y. Very old, very (apparently) knowledgeable
millennials pass through all the Big Five about five years later than the Baby Boomers did, and there has been a cultural shift in our
professors, examine every aspect and every possible ‘trend’ we may have – note the small percentage of books about millennials,
expectations. We expect to start making important decisions later, get married later, and we expect to only start a family after our
that are actually by millennials.
dream career is well underway. However, these milestones seem to base the idea of an ‘adult’ on. What if I am a spouseless 38 year old fabulous woman, with no plans for children, living in a flat shared with five strangers, and still paying off my student loan –
Authors William Strauss and Neil Howe have predicted that we will become more like the "civic-minded" with a strong sense of
would that mean I am not a proper ‘adult’?
community both local and global, while Jean Twenge, author of the 2006 book Generation Me, identifies an increased sense of entitlement and narcissism compared to preceding generations. Twenge explains, “There’s been more focus on the self, and less focus on social rules and other people. That’s where the book title came from. So while there were positive changes, such as the increase in self-esteem, it appears that sometimes, those positive views and self-esteem are not rooted in reality, and that’s where I believe a lot of the problems in this generation exist.”
There are thousands of articles, calling us thousands of names (sticks and stones guys) and Baby Boomers have a whole host of different opinions on the matter. Perhaps our story should be told from the lions den i.e. by a millennial i.e. by me. Baby Boomers are categorised as those born between 1946-1964, during the post World War II baby boom. They were to experience dramatic
Emerging Adulthood - Jeffrey Arnett, Clark University psychologist, believes in a new life stage called ‘emerging adulthood’, which involves identity exploration, instability, self-focus, feeling in-between and having a sense of possibilities. Feeling some connection with this, yet? While this all happens during adolescence, it reaches a new intensity and urgency in your twenties. While we are uncertain of the future, we are apparently more optimistic, no matter what our economic background. I think we can all relate to the “oh I’m sure it’ll be fine” wistful thinking and wild assumptions. “If happiness is the difference between what you expect out of life and what you actually get, a lot of emerging adults are setting themselves up for unhappiness because they expect so much,” Arnett says. Excellent.
social change and are associated with the rejection of traditional values. Baby Boomers (our parents) were convinced by their parents (who had endured the Great Depression and two world wars) that a regular, risk-less job was the way to security and
Education - We prolong education, like a trip to the dentist. We are getting MA’s, PHD’s and multiple degrees – that is of course if we
happiness. When our parents became by and large successful, they encouraged us to “reach for the stars”, and taught us that
aren’t delaying the whole thing altogether on our third East Asia ‘gap yah’. We try to do anything to keep this ‘kind-of-like-school’ life
no dream was too big – the world was our oyster. Twenge advises, “The first thing is to move away from this culture movement of
going; we like a routine, a goal, and a clear plan for the next few years. The unknown is certainly not something we relish. Millennials
boosting self-esteem, empty praise, and giving a trophy for showing up. High self-esteem is not linked to success in life.” What a
are often spoken about as one group of like-minded, similar people, but as a generation, we are made up of different backgrounds,
tough cookie.
different classes, and have completely different futures ahead.
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Statistics show that young people who are less educated ‘grow-up’ fastest; they begin to have children and get married, they have no
We exhaust ourselves considering all the different options, and then we choose not to choose instead of making a choice that we
choice but to tackle the responsibilities of ‘adulthood’ sooner, skipping out on ‘emerging adulthood’ altogether. In turn, it would
think we might regret. This is also reflected in our dating approaches. While some may be lucky enough to find a lover in a real life
make sense that those who are more educated grow up the slowest, remaining in the education system (bubble) for as long as possible.
‘fate’ meeting, others are forced to trawl through the various dating apps, namely Tinder. We swipe for hours, with the hope that there is probably someone better out there than the last – it is a never-ending cycle. If you marry or commit to a relationship early, it
Jean S. Phinney, PhD, a psychology professor at California State University, Los Angeles, writes on emerging adulthood's different
means ruling out sex with a wide range of potentially better-suited mates. But if you play the field, you may find all those potentials
features in ethnic-minority groups. “Both for cultural and economic reasons, many young people from ethnic-minority groups tend to
unsatisfying, and when finally ready to commit, he might have moved on! We have an inherent tendency to keep options open, and
take on adult responsibilities earlier, contributing to the family income and taking care of siblings, sometimes at the cost of slowing
a complete freak out when doors close. That is not to say that this dating revolution is all that bad though. While ‘online dating’ is
down their own schooling,” Phinney says. “During emerging adulthood, ethnic minorities have to deal with the larger culture and
definitely for your divorced rents, and should be kept on the DL if you’re an under 40 user, the world of dating apps is glorious! We
figure out their own identity in the context of the larger society. For children of immigrants, that can be especially challenging.” She
have broken down the taboo of Internet dating, and accepted it with open arms. Catching someone doing a few cheeky Tinder
believes that it can be harder for minorities who come from a culture where the expectations of what you should do are very strong.
swipes on the bus gives only the reaction of a “Get in there, son!” smile.
Technology - We were the first generation to grow up with a computer in our home. Technology is second nature to us and we have been
The path to adulthood is a struggle whatever decade you’re from, but Generation Y indisputably has a lot more to worry about.
dubbed “digital natives” by the Pew Research Centre in a survey titled ‘Millennials in Adulthood” (nice one). We use the Internet, and
With this in mind, I’m sure we would all appreciate less hassle as we go about it. Name-calling is for children and there’s nothing
specifically social networking sites, such as Facebook, to find events, stalk love interests, and scroll the sometimes torturously boring
‘grown-up’ about it.
feed so that we can stay up “just a little longer”. 88% of Generation Y even use Facebook as their primary source of news – an entirely different way of processing it; breaking news stories sandwiched between weekend photo-uploads. Being online all the time does have its downsides; our generation has become obsessed with broadcasting our every move, from every cup of coffee, to every night out.
The focus of our obsessive broadcasting is also constantly evolving. While we used to be satisfied with getting a good 50 photos up on a Facebook album named ‘weekend xo’, it then moved to Instagram in 2010, which opened a whole new realm of allure. This time we could not only keep updated with our friends, but celebrities, and models, with the potential to curate a persona how you see fit. The ‘Instagram Star” was born – editing and filters encouraged. Snapchat then burst onto our screens just a year later, and became a 24/7 log of your activities. I regularly receive messages from friends begging me to stop Snapchatting on a night out. They have become painful mini-movies, routinely involving me shrieking, dancing, and a view of a grubby club ceiling. The most recent development is Facebook’s live feed, in which you can live stream what you are doing to all your Facebook friends – yet another way to exclude, and cause anxiety for those not invited.
It is largely due to such technological advances that the social phenomenon ‘FOMO’ has been created. It did not exist a century, or even several decades ago, and this fear of missing out makes it harder to make decisions. We can see what everyone is up to, what party each friend is at, and it panics us to think that we are missing out. “What if I made the wrong decision? Maybe I should go out. I really can’t be bothered, but what if I miss out on the best night of my life?” Considering all possible negatives and benefits facilitates the idea of a statistically “correct” decision. But what if there is no “correct” decision? What if there is no right or wrong?
16 When you live independently, have your own life, pay your own bills, learn from your mistakes, had your heart broken, weep into your meal for one, go on a diet for the millionth time and cry yourself to sleep. Sasha Wilson, Personal Assistant, 24
Having enough money at the end of the month for grown up groceries (baked beans don’t count). Not caring about pleasing everyone. Is that right? Siobhan Lloyd, Production Assistant, 23
Oh boy, I’m not an adult. I’m too young. I still live with family, I can’t fully provide for myself, but then I don’t think I’m a child. Maybe I’m on my way to adult. Molly Kennelly, Estate Agent, 21
It means there’s no one to fall back on. No one will take care of all the little things - from simple things like groceries, medication, to bigger things like taxes, financial advice, if your pipes burst or someone steals your shit - it’s about knowing at the end of the day, you gotta take care of you. Rose Ekins, Arts Professional, 27
I’ve spoken to people 10 or 20 years older than I am and they all agree that you just kind of fake your way through adulthood. You don’t wake up one day feeling like an adult after you’ve gotten a real job, become financially independent, or bought a house. You just feel like the same 10 year old playing dress-up in you mom’s clothes that you always have. But now you’ve got all the bills to go along with it. Stefanie Herrera, Attorney, 25
Being totally financially independent, like not having the thought, “oh well if I was robbed, lost my job, etc. I could just go ask my
Adult ?
mom for help”.
I definitely don’t feel like an adult because I don’t deal with my responsibilities on my own without telling everyone around me all
I would say that if you can cook a good omelette and know at least five of the junctions around the M25 then you’re an adult.
about them. I’m not an adult until I’m paying a mortgage, living with a husband and we have a golden retriever in our family home.
Consequently, I am not adult.
Amanda Winsdale, Mental Health Professional, 24
Jordan Drew, Air Hostess, 22
I spend my days tagging my friends in shit memes and racking up an impressive Deliveroo history. Am I an adult? Who knows. Jess Davey, Hair Stylist, 24
Lauren Rowland, Property Manager, 23
I guess it means having to figure everything out on your own, money, jobs, life! But it’s freedom, which is always more fun. Laura Horgan, PR Assistant, 24
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safety and security
Whiskey, gambling and Ferraris are better than housework.
photography and styling by Bianca Raggi and Isabella Meija-Bruton
turtleneck Marni, leather trousers Simonetta Ravizza, shoes stylist’s own
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opposite page, jeans and top Marques Almeida, clogs Miu Miu
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sit
and
opposite page, dress Sooyeun Park, shoes stylist’s own
back
relax
opposite page, top Marques Almeida. this page hoodie CDG, jeans Free People, shoes stylist’s own
home is where
connects
this page, trousers CDG, wrap-top vintage, shoes stylist’s own. opposite page dress Miss Sixty, trousers CDG, jacket Sooyuen Park
your wifi
automatically
skirt Subdued, sheer top Miumiu, top Voyage, shorts stylist’’s own. opposite page; ribbed top Stephan Janson
one bedroom flat in Hoxton, c/o Seth at Foxtons
dress vintage, shoes stylist’s own. opposite page, coat and dress Masha Popova, snake boots stylist’s own
one bedroom flat in Shoreditch c/o Stuart at Davey Stone
no
ikea
more
furniture
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there are so many people having an easy life
50 It is hard to put into words how anxiety makes you feel. With all the pressures of life piled onto us every day, from university exams to juggling a part-time bar job with a full-time (un-paid) internship, our minds are in constant overdrive. Faced with so much prospect of choice, it’s natural to have feelings of fear: fear of failure, fear of disappointment and fear of what the future may hold. It gets to a stage where this never ending worry just leaves you feeling helpless and exhausted, unable to see the light at the end of the tunnel. The smallest of tasks, such as opening a bank statement, can become such a means of stress that staying in bed sometimes feels like the only viable option.
Stifled by the Freedom of Choice By Olivia Murphy
We’re the generation of the unknown. Our parents told us we could be and do anything, so we must be perfect - we mustn’t let them, or ourselves, down. Well, the truth is there is no such thing as the perfect choice. But decision making becomes impossible because we’re so fixated with getting it right, we tend to fail to make a decision at all. The grass is always greener. American psychologist
It is estimated that adults make on average 35,000 decisions every day. Is this limitless choice given to us by our modern society
and professor of social theory Barry Schwartz explained, “The way in which we value things depends on what we compare them
damaging or liberating?
to.” It’s so easy to imagine that you could have made a better decision, even if the one you did make was the right one. All of the options induce you to regret, and consequently subtracts from the level of fulfillment. “The secret of happiness is to have low expectations.” says Schwartz, but to lead a life with low expectations wipes out any hopes whatsoever of achieving our dreams.
Have you ever been hit with that sudden wave of self-doubt as you see a waitress approach your table ready to take your order
Anxiety is not a new condition of course, however it was only recognised as a clinical category in the past 30 years and it is re-
at a restaurant? For this choice that you are about to make isn’t just a choice of entrée to fulfill your hunger, it has now become the
ported that people within the creative industries are 25% more likely to suffer from it. We’re all striving to achieve that good life we
most important decision of your life. You sweat, panic, scan the menu frantically and make a brash decision, leaving you to spend
fantasised about as a teenager, and now we have been propelled into the “real” world. It’s obstacle after obstacle to get where we
the next 25 minutes regretting every moment of it, riled with food envy. Such a choice is not easy to make, even writing that sce-
want to be. The ultimate goal is happiness, but it would be naïve to suggest that a successful life is one with uninterrupted moments
nario felt stressful. In fact, choice in general has the potential to be a traumatic experience for us all, and Generation Y is feeling
of utopian bliss.
the wrath of today’s overpowering amount of options. Starbucks has 20 espresso-based beverages on its menu alone, who needs that kind of choice? In 2016 we do.
It really can be liberating to live in a time when there are so many choices available to us; we’ve just got to figure out how to deal with it. Life Coach, Tamara Jureidini, gave an insight into how we can overcome this fear of choice, and fear of change. “Rather than seeing choice as a
Whilst freedom of choice is an undoubtable luxury given to us by living in an industrialised, modern society, the volume of options
means of overwhelm, we should seek to explore and understand ourselves as an individual. Then maybe the easier decisions will beco-
presented runs the risk of actually oppressing individuals rather than liberating them. It is estimated that the average adult makes
me.” By seeking self-understanding, making decisions should begin to feel more natural and less stressful. “The more conscious we become
around 35,000 conscious choices each day. Reading that vast number out loud, it comes as no surprise that “the-too-much-choi-
of our personal interests, the more empowered we become by the array of choices available. The fear of choice eventually disappears.”
ce-effect” is taking ahold of young people. As we fumble into adulthood the amount of decision making we’re faced with is intimidating.
Possibly it’s not the options that are causing us anxiety, but the self-doubt to make an informed decision. We need to learn to trust our gut.
Which grad-scheme to take? Brexit or no Brexit? Do I sleep with him on the first date? Am I a bad person if I shop at Primark? The effect of these limitless options is turning our generation into nervous, overwhelmed characters and reports show that anxiety
Perhaps now is the time to stop dwelling on our abundance of choice and begin embracing it. Just make a decision! Whether it’s
levels amongst us has exploded. Anxiety is a mental health condition that can affect anyone, of any age no matter how good or
what shampoo to buy, or which flat to put a deposit down on, go for it and trust your instinct without looking back. This is the world
bad they’re life may be considered to be. It is reported that within Generation Y, a staggering 1 in 6 individuals will suffer from anxiety
we live in, one with over 20 espresso based beverages, and it’s time to take control. Who wants to live in a world where you’re only
in their life, and so this is an issue that must be spoken about more openly.
offered a single filter coffee anyway? God Forbid.
Sadie Williams,
@sadiewilliams_uk
is a young Fashion and Textiles designer who graduated from Central Saint
Martins in 2013 with a distinction. She has designed a capsule collection for & Other Stories, was selected as one of Selfridges ‘Bright Young Things’, and has worked with J.W Anderson and Marc by Marc Jacobs.
You’re born and bred in London, have you ever attempted to leave? I don’t think I could do this anywhere else, because of the support I receive here in London. Also it’s home; where my friends, family and peers are, who help support me in so many ways.
What has been the most exciting moment in your career so far? I’ve had a few moments where I’ve felt incredibly proud and fortunate. Unveiling my window at Selfridges with my dream team of friends that helped do an all nighter with the installation was super great. Being included in The Designs of the Year 2014 exhibition at The London Design Museum was unbelievable too. But, perhaps seeing my MA grad collection on the catwalk tops it all, because it’s kind of the moment where it all started and the first time I really got to express and announce my work.
How do you feel about fellow designers rebelling against the standard show schedule? I think that the pace of fashion is very hard, especially for young designers. It’s also hard to be noticed when there are so many shows happening, in such a small amount of time. So, I understand why designers want to step off the merry-go-round and show something at their own pace and in their own time. I’ve considered this myself, and this is also why I was so hesitant to start my own label straight after graduating.
Do you think slow fashion is the key to luxury in the near future? I really hope that people do move towards slow fashion and stop consuming cheap things that get thrown out and replaced so quickly. I hope instead, we move towards buying pieces more crafted and lovingly made. But it’s hard to know if this is just too idealistic, in an age where we all look at so many images of new things all the time.
Do you feel like a fully fledged adult? Sometimes. When dealing with all difficult and tough aspects of running my own label, like organising teams, dealing with sales and finances, then yes, I definitely feel quite adult! But when I’m designing I’m quite playful and my work stays true to my personal style (which is pretty youthful and tomboyish) so I don’t think that my brand is too adult in it’s nature. And I guess neither am I.
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1.
Time for self exploration
Drinking allows for zero thinking. What was the last clear thought you had when intoxicated? There was none. Being in your twenties means figuring out what you’re going to do with the rest of your life, and that can be a daunting task; but have no fear, cannabis is here to save the day! It can help bring about subconscious creativity, and help achieve clarity.
2.
It softens the blow of adult realities
Being an ‘adult’ and living outside the sanctuary of your family home - where meals and laundry are provided - can suck, but smoking a big fat
How to Switch from Booze to Bud
one can help you realise your independence has its perks. Paying your bills, opening that scary council tax letter, and cleaning the flat seem like daunting tasks, but weed will help you through it.
By Rebecca Burgum
3.
Going out to bars / clubs = effort
Don’t get me wrong, I love a dance 10 times more than the next person, but the amount of effort that goes into a night out is sometimes simply
I very much consider myself an alcohol person; I get extremely loud, way more fun, and often inappropriate, but that’s all part of the fun, isn’t it? Moderation is certainly not my forte, and I have always known that most of my problems stemmed from my drinking, specifically in the secondary school years. I’d be the one needing to be carried home, I would be the one bawling my eyes
not worth it. Gathering friends, organising where to pre-drink, paying to get there, paying to get back… A catch up at a bar never actually makes it to the point of catching up what with all the distractions, all the drinks, and all the noise. The bar is not so conducive to hanging with friends, so why not stay home, save money, smoke and actually converse?
out on every night out, and I would be the one excommunicated from my sixth form common room for ‘getting with’ someone’s love interest. My mind would be plagued with regrets after nights out thinking, “What have I done this time?” Although I have very much (slightly) calmed down on the drinking front, I’m beginning to re-evaluate the need for alcohol in my life. With weekends getting all the more precious, I no longer feel okay with spending half of it hung-over, festering in a dark room.
4.
Hangovers are becoming deathly
After a night of screaming with your friends on a loud dance floor, you may wake up to find that bottle of wine and questionable sugary shots have left you with nothing but a splitting headache. I’m shocked almost every time - we used to be so invincible. No matter how much we drank, no matter how far we pushed our bodies, it would refuse to show any sign of weakness, but alas, times have changed. Your teens may have allowed a quick hangover recovery, but as your twenties rolls on, that turn-around-time becomes longer and longer.
My flatmate and I have decided that our twenties, may just be the time we finally ‘get into weed’. Although never having felt any
2.
You can do it on a weeknight!
Given the lack of repercussions, cannabis can be enjoyed any night of the week, with no need to find some lame excuse not to go into work the
inclination to do so before, and certainly being no connoisseur, I’m up 100% up for giving it a whirl. No one can deny that the
next day.In this competitive job climate, performing at any less than your best at work is foolish, and skipping a day entirely is simply a no go.
thought of a hangover-free weekend seems like bliss. So, here are just 5 reasons why you should give the switch a chance …
Forget knocking back a glass of wine (or five) after a long day, and instead relax and reflect with some mary j.
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How have you been able to afford to live and work in London without any kind of student loan? Knowing that you won’t have to pay off an astronomical uni loan must be comforting, right? Well, I’m still living at home not paying rent and I work part time in a shop, which is how I’ve been able to sustain myself without working full time. I mean I have £3k maintenance to pay back (lol) for blowing two installments that I don’t know why I got sent haha, but apart from that year, the idea of being £30k + in debt isn’t a way that I’d like to begin my career.
Ronan McKenzie (21), @ronanksm left university after just a few days, and hasn’t looked back since.
What have you been doing since leaving CSM? I heard you’ve been doing a lot of work with Marques’Almeida, how did that happen? Yeah I actually just bumped into them shortly after I left CSM, and said how much I loved their work - we just became friends from there. They’re so lovely and are happy to give new artists / friends a chance to do something meaningful for them, which I appre-
Word on the street is that you moved to Portugal last year, where are you living at the moment?
ciate massively. I’ve also been shooting for a few mags like The Fader, Rollacoaster, Paper Light, LAW and a few bits online, and
I live in Walthamstow at the mo, l was in Portugal from June-early December last year because my boyfriend wanted to move
I’ve got a story coming out in Wonderland in a couple weeks, which I’m really excited about. I’ve been lucky enough to get help
back (he’s Portuguese), I’d quit uni and wanted to explore so thought fuck it why not! We decided to come back because I was
from a lot of people, I’m definitely learning and progressing through practice. I feel like I’m on the way and doing it my way.
coming back once a month to shoot and not having many opportunities to shoot there, so it made sense for me to be in London to fully take advantage of the opportunities.
Are there any other projects you have worked on? I know you held an exhibition last December called ‘A Black Body’ which was really brilliantly received.
You left the Fashion Communication course at CSM after just a few days. Leaving education is a pretty big decision, what made you take the leap?
I’m working on something at the moment for TATE Future, and actually starting my own publication, which is pretty exciting!
It just wasn’t for me, I’m a strong believer in following my instincts and even after a few days it didn’t feel right. I’d only applied to CSM as I wasn’t sure if I wanted to go to Uni and thought if I got in I’d just go, but I didn’t enjoy it at all.
Do you consider yourself an adult? What do you think makes an ‘adult’? God I have no idea, I don’t even consider myself a “photographer” I don’t feel professional enough for that title haha. I don’t even
Do you think leaving was the right decision for you? Definitely, for me it was the best decision! In the year and a half I would have spent at CSM I’ve developed my own practice, met
know if the title adult has any meaning any more apart from an age, because you can be 50 and be as immature as a nine year old or 14 year old that has to work to take care of their family...
so many people, and had to opportunity to do so many more things. If I went to uni I would have to go in certain days, but now I have my own schedule and do whatever I want, which is great for me as I love working at my own pace, and setting my own
What does a typical day for you consist of?
challenges.
Running, planning shoots, shooting, cooking, hanging out or working in retail, all quite chilled to be fair!
relationships / belonging
we do
whatever
we want
photography and styling by BiaBel
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zebra shirt D&G, trousers Jh Zane, knitted top Stephan Janson, snake tights Wolford opposite page; shirt dress Zara, underwear Intimissimi
from left; zebra top Topshop, underwear Intimissimi, shirt Boggi, floral trousers Ken Scott, sadals Miumiu, knitted top Marni, suede dress Jh Zane
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tell me
if I am too much
striped top Stephan Janson, silk corset What Katie Did, shoes stylist’s own
I love when I’m alone in the house
knitted ribbed top Stephan Janson, t-shirt Marc Jacobs, floral corset What Katie Did, underwear Wolford, long shirt dress Zara, zebra print shirt D&G, trousers Jh Zane
tattoo top D&G, denim skirt Marques Almeida, snake boots stylist’s own, ribbed tshirt Stephan Janson, suede trousers Jh Zane, wooden shoes stylist’s own
bikini Fisichino, snake boots stylist’s own, ribbed tshirt Stephan Janson, suede trousers Jh Zane, wooden shoes stylist’s own
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fishnet tights Dior, silk top Stephan Janson, picnic dress Comme des Garcons, shoes Prada
if you ever got me you wouldn’t have a clue what
to do with me
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the place we are going to...I don’t want to get there
by Archelmis Guo
time capusules :Archelmis , Seth
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time capusules : Kristy, Ignancy
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time capusules : Bo, Ester
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1. We’ve all heard of Airbnb, but have your tried the totally unrelated but similarly named site, KinkBNB? The “sex positive home sharing community” includes features such as sex dungeons, sex furniture, sex toys…you get the fucking picture, all whilst granting you freedom from nosey hotel clerks or pesky neighbours. Let the orgy commence!
2. When the excitement starts outside of the bedroom, chances are it’ll finish there. Fuck on a quiet street, in the toilets of a restaurant you could never afford to eat in or see how much you can get away with in the back of that Uber. Sure, it’s against the law but screw it (literally), that’s half the fun.
3. For those whose experimentation goes beyond handcuffs and blindfolds, fetish club nights such as Pedestal, “a playground for the dominant woman and those who worship her” are thriving in the UK. Club AntiChrist even hands out free willy wrappers in front of their “naughty area” (aka place for you to fuck in fancy dress).
4. Every bullshit women’s magazine has told you to “go to a kinky store with your partner to reignite the spark in your relationship.” Lame. Have you been into sex shops lately? They are full of slimy middle-aged men and obnoxiously loud twats stocking up for bachelorette parties. You buy everything else online, why not get your nipple clamps and anal beads there too?
5. Remember when Sting claimed he had hours on end of tantric sex at a time? Probably not since that was in 1990, were you even born? I sure as hell wasn’t. Anyways, Diamond Light Tantra in Maida Vale (aka posh as fuck) offers workshops from level one to eight (beginning with ‘opening to bliss’ and ending with ‘sacred sexual archetypes’) on this practice for those who aren’t happy with the magic of missionary.
How to Fuck when Living with a Ton of Housemates By Rachel Cohen
6. Ever been in the kitchen and thought “wow, I wish there was a dungeon with an array of corporal punishment toys just across the hall?” Well you’re in luck! The Hoxton Dungeon Suite can be rented for the night or for a few hours and includes everything your dirty little mind could’ve ever imagined (sadly due to “misuse” some items, such as the fucking machines, have to be hired out).
You probably do not live alone. No problem, until you want to have toe curling, headboard shaking, where-the-fuck-did-thatcome-from, sex without worrying about some asshole banging on your door right as things get good. Woe is me, where to shag when there are a handful of people living their own lives behind very thin walls? Whether you’re in a relationship or bringing
7. Call upon an ol’ classic: fuck in the shower. Oh shower, why should one fuck in thee? Let me count the ways. Everything is soaking wet, everything. No clean up afterwards. Moans sound so much, moanier, in you. Who doesn’t look sexy all steamed up? (For the record that is four reasons.)
home a rotation of Tinder-fellas/ellas, you have the right to screaming orgasm after screaming orgasm no matter how many
8. Tell your flatmates to fuck off for the night or buy tickets for the show. I mean can you really be expected to stay in a sex dun-
bitter flatmates are cursing their discount vibrators as you do. So, let’s get creative with something more than just positions
geon every time you want to get laid? You have needs, dammit, so buy those fuckers some mother fucking earplugs and get to
here, people!
fucking you fucking fucker!
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Charles Hutton (31), @instachaaz is an architect turned professional doodler. His Instagram sticky notes went viral, leading to a HarperCollins book deal, available for pre-order on Amazon now.
So, you have 131k Instagram followers, and ‘A Sticky Note Guide To Life’ comes out in November. How did it all start? It started off in a Whatsapp group chat with a few close friends. I often found it almost impossible to keep up with the pace of conversation (especially while working) so I’d just draw a quick picture on whatever was close to hand, then take a photo of it. My friends demanded that I put them on Instagram, which I informed them was a horrible idea and that nothing would come of it.
As a member of Generation Y, how do you feel about the stereotypes (lazy, apolitical, technology addicted) surrounding it? First of all, I think the notion of applying a single personality type to all the people in the world born between a set number of years
How did the book deal come about?
is completely baffling, and is an outright dangerously simplified way of quantifying society. That said, I’m pretty sure ‘lazy, apolitical,
It’s absolutely not something I would have envisaged! I think when it started to get some traction, I figured I might be able to men-
and technology addicted’ were all terms used to describe Baby Boomers back in the 60’s and 70’s.
tion a brand and maybe get a few hundred pounds, but to be able to quit my job and become a full time author is beyond anything I could have predicted. That all happened after a few publishers approached me, then suddenly I had an agent and then a book
Can you think anappropriate nickname for Gen Y?
deal. It’s still all quite surreal, if I’m honest.
“All the people born between 1980 and 2000” is probably the most accurate and appropriate description of ‘Generation Y’ as you’re going to get.
A lot of your post-it’s are about adulthood struggles, what do you think an ‘adult’ is? From a boringly scientific viewpoint, the term ‘adult’ is a part of the lifespan of an organism, and there’s been things being born,
You refer to Tinder in you post-it’s, are you an avid Tinder user, and how’s that going for you?
growing up, becoming adults, reproducing, and dying long before human society categorized and quantified it. Once we did
I tried Tinder for a bit, but lost interest. However, generally I think online dating as a concept is a spectacular, amazing thing that’s
however, we quickly added some legal weight to it as well. I think what is being called into question here is the traditional roles
potentially helped a lot of people who maybe didn’t previously have the social connections to find someone they were into. I love
expected of an adult (which, as stated has both stable biological and legal definitions). It’s the redefinition of those traditional roles
the idea of two agoraphobics finding each other for example. What a beautiful thing.
and expectations which is causing that cross-generational culture shift, and is also basically ground zero for every hysteriWWcal think-piece on the evils of ‘the next generation’.
How much of the day do you feel you spend on the Internet? I never really leave it to be honest. I check my phone more than anyone I know, and it’s rarely more than about 2 meters away from
Have you had a defining moment where you feel you have crossed over into ‘adulthood’?
me, at any given point. I’m not sure if this is a bad thing, or just the next step in human evolution, either way - it pissed off all the
The day I got an accountant.
right kind of people, so I’ll continue to do it.
self actualisation
work don’t
play
photography and styling by BiaBel
pin striped suit Iceberg, t-shirt Marc Jacobs, shoes Prada
shirt Comme des Garçons, pin striped trousers stylist’s own, sandals Miu Miu
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shirt Commes des Garรงons, trousers Alberto Biani
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knitted coat Soyoung Park, shirt Alberto Biani, jeans Christian Dior, snake boots stylist’s own
pin striped dress Helena Manzano, shirt Comme des Garçons, top Norma Kamali, trousers Rellik
top stylist’s own, trousers Alberto Biani, sandals Miu Miu
I don’t even understand what I
don’t understand
printed shirt Marni, trousers Alberto Biani, sandals Miu Miu, silk top Prada, trousers Rellik
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one shoulder woollen dress Jil Sander, shoes Prada
do you ever wonder what your puprose in life is?
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pin striped trousers Helena Manzano, cardigan Miu Miu, shoes stylist’s own
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ribbed one shoulder top Stephan Janson
denim suit Alberto Biani, sheer top Miu Miu, wooden shoes stylist’s own
trench coat Burberry, knit sweater CDG, trousers Alberto Biani, snake boots Aldo
motivation is the characteristic that brings you to achieve your goals. you did not get to where you are by doing homework
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are you only searching for pleasure?
make yourself hard to kill
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Sharmadean Reid (32),@sharmadeanreid is founder of the WAH empire. Born from a fanzine, which lead to the launch of the WAH nail salon in Dalston, the brand has remained at the forefront of the beauty scene for nearly a decade. In, 2015 she was awarded an MBE for her services to the nail and beauty industry. You seem to be motivated by more than just success in terms of business and profit, would you agree?
How necessary do you feel your Fashion Communication degree was in getting you where you are today? I hated it at the time but some of the classes gave me core skills that I still use today. For example, sitting and writing a 500-word exhibition review in 30 minutes seemed like a fruitless exercise at the time, but now I can confidently and quickly write pieces that I would usually have to outsource to a copywriter. It’s a great all rounder degree that is about honing and developing your media and communication skills.
Do you think a degree is necessary for young people pursuing creative careers? Right now is such an exciting time for business and start ups, I don’t actually think there is much point in studying unless you want to work in STEM (science, technology, engineering and mathematics) subjects. For creativity, experience is the best way.
I’m not so interested in being a boss. That implies top down leadership and I actually hate when people call me their boss. I like the idea of being a CEO and having the strategy and vision to lead your troops.
Why are there such few women in executive positions? I think the main barrier to entry is confidence. Women underestimate themselves, that’s the main thing. A 20-year-old guy with no experience will walk into a room and say his whatever business idea is worth 20million. A woman with say “… oh, I think its gonna make about £250K...”
As a member of Generation Y, how do you feel about the stereotypes (lazy, apolitical, technology addicted) surrounding it, given you are so clearly extremely driven?
You recently spoke at the Fashion Futures Awards about engaging fashion consumers in the digital age, how was it being
There will always be anomalies, there will always be stereotypes. Every demographic has its attributes - which is fine - but it’s
a part of such an event?
interesting to break the mold.
I get asked to speak on a lot of panels and it’s incredibly time consuming, but the best innovative ideas come from cross pollination of ideas, and it’s an amazing way to meet your peers and connect with likeminded people. You also get to inspire the next gener-
As a mother, entrepreneur and MBE, do you feel like you have fully crossed over into adulthood?
ation of budding careers.
Yes. I feel like a woman, I feel like I have true knowledge of what I’m here for and where I’m going. You don’t get it till you’re 30 I think!
How did the ‘WAH Nails Power Lunch’ come about? Did you create it yourself, or were you approached? What does it aim to achieve? I started it even before I had the salon. I just had a really cool job as a stylist and creative consultant and everyone kept asking how
The transition into adulthood seems a scary thing for many starting to break into the ‘real world’, do you have any
I got my job, so I brought together some other women in cool jobs, simply to explain how we got our jobs, what we studied, who we
departing advice?
interned with, what we learnt. Now I see it as a way of truly empowering the future girl corps with concrete and actionable advice
Everything that happens to you is for a reason. It’s your party, no one else’s and everything you have is what you’re meant to
to launch their own projects. It’s going well and I want to do a bigger one-day event in September.
experience.
Teetering Into A New Work Mentality
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By Olivia Murphy, Rebecca Burgum and Rachel Cohen
Though to wear a heel or not wear a heel is just one thing on a painfully long list of decisions women are required to make every morning, whilst dressing for work. When “it is possible for only one item to signify who you are” - according to Lauren A. Rothman in her book Style Bible: What to Wear to Work - the option of either a dress-trousers-jumpsuit-buttondownblouse- turtleneck-bla-
Imagine a world where your commute didn’t involve fumbling out of your feet-friendly trainers, in to the impending prison your manager calls a court heel.
zer-cardiganpencilskirtmidiskirt (and breathe) is frankly overwhelming. What are all of these options saying about me? And that’s before we’ve even started to consider our hair and makeup. Granted, both men and women are judged on their appearance; though
We are the casual generation. We are relaxed (in dress sense only), we embrace comfort, and we know we can do our jobs to
it is natural that we women are subject to more scrutiny due to the volume of wardrobe options. Trying to achieve the balance
the same degree of awesomeness (if not greater) in trainers and culottes, as we can in heels and pencil skirts. As we steadily
between femininity and power is a battle within itself. We mustn’t look frumpy, but needn’t dream of showing a flash of cleavage.
redefine adulthood conventions, we also have some changes we would like to make towards out-dated workwear guidelines. We
are entering, and crawling our way up the ladder in the workplace right now, with different values than our predecessors –
A pencil skirt can offer professionalism, but be careful not to be too distracting to your male colleagues. Fashion is quick to be deemed frivolous, but the expectation of women and their dress code proves otherwise.
could we be the generation to end stuffy corporate clothing? On average people spend about 25-30 years of their life working, and with our ever-expanding life span, this is only rising. We now identify so much with our careers that some kind of indi-
Women in positions of power are particularly stigmatised by how they choose to style themselves. One search of “Hillary Clinton
vidual expression at work feels vital. The Casual Friday movement of the 1990’s was only the beginning of the relaxation of
– Fashion” on Google, and you’re bombarded with endless, ridiculous headlines that no male politician would be subjected to.
workwear rules. We grew up in the age of Steve Jobs and Mark Zuckerberg, billionaires in the public eye who championed
You can hardly blame Clinton when she infamously bailed on Vogue back in 2008. The politician was set to grace the December
hoodies, t-shirts and jeans. The hoodie - once considered a staple amongst ‘burn-outs’ - can now be seen from runways,
2007 cover, shot by Annie Leibovitz, with an accompanying interview, only to pull out last minute. “We already have the women’s
to tech offices. It is clear that ‘professional’, impractical, constraining suits have no bearing on one’s drive and success.
vote in the bag,” claimed Clinton’s camp, though Wintour had drawn other conclusions. “Imagine my amazement, then, when we learned that Hillary Clinton, our only female president hopeful, had decided to steer clear of our pages at this point in her
Businesses are also adapting offices to create playful environments that have been proven to feed creativity and one’s work ethic.
campaign for fear of looking too feminine.” She wrote in the February 2008 editors letter, “The notion that a contemporary woman
Staying up until 4am in the office wouldn’t be half as bad if the environment aimed to soothe, rather than stifle. Both Google and
must look mannish in order to be taken seriously as a seeker of power is frankly dismaying.” Wintour continues, “This is America,
YouTube offices are complete with slides, mini golf, even libraries and aquariums, which we admit, may be a little OTT, but why the
not Saudi Arabia. It’s also 2008: Margaret Thatcher may have looked terrific in a blue power suit, but that was 20 years ago. We
hell not. We are great believers that a good vibe can go a long way. French legislation caused a stir when reports surfaced ban-
do think Americans have moved on from the power-suit mentality, which served as a bridge for a generation of women to reach
ning work emails after 6pm, sending Brits into an outraged frenzy (and that was before Sweden introduced a mere six hour work
boardrooms filled with men. Political campaigns that do not recognize this are making a serious misjudgment.” While Wintour
day). We will one day be the CEO’s, creative directors and editor-in-chiefs, and we will be at the forefront of reshaping the workplace.
may be the czar of the fashion world, it’s now 2016 and Clinton is well on her way to the White House (we pray), and it cannot be ignored that the decision to ditch Vogue at that time may have been necessary.
The argument for reformed dress codes, however, goes deeper than our “chilled” personas. Recently, receptionist Nicola Thorp was sent home from work at a corporate finance company after refusing to wear high heels. Thorp told BBC Radio London: “I said, ‘If you can give me a reason as to why wearing flats would impair me to do my job today, then fair enough’, but they couldn’t. I was expected
Perhaps the reason the world is still struggling with how women should dress in the workplace is because a large part of our “power wardrobes” are just adaptions of menswear. Suits, blazers, button downs and trousers invoke the sense of masculine dress, seemin-
to do a nine-hour shift on my feet escorting clients to meeting rooms. I said I just won’t be able to do that in heels.” A subsequent online
gly saying that to look office appropriate, we must hide our femininity. Even high heels, the butt shaping, wobble inducing little
petition complaining that the requirement was “outdated and sexist” attracted over 100,000 signatures and it has been reported that
torture devices, serve to put us at the level of males (well those of us who are vertically challenged). While women have been
the company in question has now changed its dress code to permit the wearing of flat shoes. While there is no issue, in principle, of
wearing skirt suits since the 17th century, it was only for equestrian purposes. It wasn’t until the end of the 19th century that we
an employer wishing to operate a formal dress code, there needs to be valid justifications for rules, and we believe this validity is plum-
see this outfit, a blouse worn under a coat or jacket with a long skirt, beginning to be adopted into everyday wardrobes. In 100
meting. It is still possible, and very common, for employers to impose different requirements for men and women, however, neither
Ideas That Changed Fashion, Harriet Worsley writes, “…feminists wore them to make a political point, in rejecting the femininity
gender should be subjected to requirements more onerous than the other. This is where the workplace is failing women. Does a man
of sweeping dresses…By the outbreak of World War I, working women had started to wear the coat and skirt. It was durable and
being required to wear a tie really equate to a woman having to wear heels, physically damaging her feet, posture and calves for life?
practical, and pretty dresses suddenly seemed inappropriate for the office.”
In the 1960s the pantsuit entered the world of high fashion. André Courrèges introduced the style in 1963 (though it is widely credited to
Yves Saint Laurent, who in fact didn’t show his signature Le Smoking until 1966) but this didn’t mean the rest of the world was ready for women in trousers. Socialite Nan Kempner was denied entry into a swanky New York restaurant three years after Saint Laurent’s pantsuit made it’s debut, but was allowed to dine once she stripped off the trousers and wore the jacket as a mini dress. The trickling down of this look into the closet of working women was largely seen in the 1980s with John T.Molloy’s manual, Dress For Success publishing a version for women in 1980, TV show Dynasty splashing out for Joan Collins’ shoulder-centric wardrobe and the reign of Margaret Thatcher (who’s stylist, Margaret King, explains the choice of suits with, “she was in a man’s world, and she had to look the part”). In recent years, androgynous dressing (for men and women) has been heavily featured on runways but a divide still exists. While the Annie Hall look may sweep boardrooms, it’s unlikely male lawyers will show up to meet clients in a Rick Owens’ tunic anytime soon.
it’s not
Is there still a lack of acceptance of working women? There are plenty more obvious and detrimental ways the modern workplace has
not adapted to the entry of women, but we have to start somewhere. The Two Percent Club (which unites the top 2% of executive
all
and non-executive women) states, “Six out of ten university graduates are women, 45% of the workforce are women, yet 93% of executive directors are men.” The career ladder is steep enough as it is - we’d like to see men try and tackle this in heels. A change is eminent;
we can smell it in the air - that and the sweet scent of our new Adidas Stan Smiths.
doom and gloom
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Bex Day (23), @bex_day is a London based photographer and has published work in VICE, Garage and Dazed and Confused. She has just been nominated for the Magnum Graduate award 2016 and has lectured at Cambridge University.
How was your uni experience? Well, I went to LCF and studied Fashion Journalism. For me it was relevant as it encouraged me to enhance the artistic side of my career, and allowed me to progress to photography. (I was able to use the dark room, the studios and equipment at uni.) On top of that, journalism is quite relevant to my work as it allows me to push the documentary side of my photography and develop a photojournalistic style.
Given that you have recently left PYLOT, what is your next move? No I am now focusing fully on my career as a documentary photographer. I am currently working on my first photobook and solo show due for release next year. There’s a lot of talk about the death of print, but there seems to be a boom in independent publishing. Do you think our generation will react against technology?
Do you think the education system is failing young creatives?
I recently lectured at the Hepworth Gallery about this actually. I think the resurgence in print is refreshing and I think print stands
I don’t think it’s just young creatives, I think it is all students. I went straight into university after finishing school and probably
at the forefront of publishing. Social media seems to me more like a temporary tool, which I think works extremely well alongside
rushed into it. I didn’t really see not going to university as an option, and do feel my school brainwashed each student into thinking
printed matter; but more as an enabler.
this was the next step and something we had to do. I mean obviously there were gap years, but even after that, it was very much a case of going to university after the year out. However, being at university and having structure and the name of UAL on my CV
How do you feel about the idea that Instagram is becoming the new CV?
definitely helped me to get to where I am now. I do struggle to understand why the costs were so high, as the ratio of independent
I really do believe that without social media, particularly Instagram, I would have had a much harder time getting to where I am
study to actual lectures was very low. Luckily I was able to live at home during uni; so it is not necessarily an industry for the rich
now. Instagram is like a portfolio for my work, and has allowed me to enhance my following and receive jobs via this platform.
but perhaps a dependent one.
It means I can connect and communicate with individuals all over the world that would have not been as accessible otherwise.
Your work usually is shot on anaglogue cameras; do you ever flirt with digital? I work with digital on a commercial basis, as clients are usually more inclined to use this medium. I use film for my personal work, because rather than taking 50,000 shots of the same thing on digital you are more cautious with film. You choose what you want to capture carefully, because ultimately, film is expensive. You’ve been with PYLOT magazine since the start, which has a strict analogue only, and no retouching policy. Did you enjoy working within
Like when I messaged Nan Goldin and she started following me on Instagram, that was probably one of the best moments of my Insta – time.
Can you think of a moment when you felt you had crossed over into adulthood? I had to grow up very quickly. I think growing up in London does this to you, but I suppose it was from a very young age as it was me who had to become the parent very early on. Probably when I found their sex toy on the floor at about age 7?
this frame? It naturally guided my own style and aesthetic, and is something that is very close to my heart. I think retouching is in most cases
What makes an ‘adult’?
unnecessary. I find it ridiculous that models need to be made even thinner, or their skin to be made even more perfect; beauty
I think it is finally understanding the boundaries of ‘adult’ or ‘parent’ versus ‘child’ — what it means to be a child and what it
retouching is something I do not like to do within my personal work.
means to be a parent…perhaps the ability to understand yourself and control your behavior.
taste cultivation
did you buy a porsche yet?
photography and styling by BiaBel
The pressure of having to be charming incapacitates me.
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Nativity, Romanino
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An Allegory with Venus and Cupid , Bronzino
Christ and Mary Magdalene (Noli me tangere), Titian
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The Ambassadors, Holbein
The Immaculate Conception, Velรกzquez
A Blonde Woman, Vecchio
be kind
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A few weeks ago, my mom called to ask what I had done that weekend. “Nothing,” I sighed, “and it was wonderful.” You would have thought I had just proclaimed my love for knitting quietly indoors on sunny days. “Is something wrong? Where were your friends? Do you want me to come visit?” My mother officially doubted any claim I had to social relevance. I would never pretend to speak for every member of Generation Y, but for many of us in urban environments, we’re living on shoestring budgets, fighting for competitive jobs and anxiety-riddled by the whole experience. We aren’t bothered by a low-key weekend because when you’re working your ass off, it isn’t uncool to have your shit together and sometimes that means not staying out until six in the morning. Twenty year old student Katharina Lina admits she only goes out once or twice a month and it would have to be a “really good techno party” to persuade her. It was always the cool kid in class who never had his homework, refused to answer the teacher’s questions and gave as little effort as possible, but when you’re putting yourself into a mountain of debt for your education, does that kind of apathy make you cool or stupid? Besides, when really looking at symbols of cool from Brigitte Bardot to Jimi Hendrix, what links them is a
Re-Birth of the Cool By:Rachel Cohen
nonchalance-that attitude that says “this is me, and I couldn’t care less what you think about it.” That doesn’t necessarily mean not caring about what you do, because none of them would have reached the levels of success they did without passion and drive, but more so the guts to go against the grain and do what it is that suits you, even if that means horrifying your mom with your weekend plans.
It’s no secret that times aren’t just a-changin’, they’ve changed. While our elders can’t seem to let go of this past we’ve never, and will never know, instead of being told what we should be wearing, what we should be doing or how we should be pissing away our youth, we’re moulding a new prototype of cool in our image, not theirs.
When trying to grasp what is cool for twenty-something’s today, several immediate issues come to mind. The commercialisation of cool in the 1960s, illustrated by the Pepsi ads of the day, “Youth is an attitude, not an age, nowadays,” where youth is a metaphor for being “hip,” has only accelerated. Recently, The Business of Fashion published an article titled “At Festivals, Fashion Taps the ‘Currency of Cool’” about how brands are circling in on not just festival goers, but those who follow the many celebrities who attend
“You’re so cool,” in perhaps the most memorable line of Tony Scott and Quentin Tarantino’s True Romance, Patricia Arquette recalls
the musical outings and the style shots taken there. Meaning? Festivals were once seen as a cool place therefore the authenticity
how these three words ran through her mind as her husband was shot during a blood drenched drug bust. What made him so cool?
has been sold at auction to the highest bidder (in this case a H&M pop up shop, a festival themed collection by Hunter and numerous
Was it the danger, his rockabilly style or the fact that seconds before he’d been having a chat with Elvis in the bathroom? Defining
parties for digital influencers by brands such as Calvin Klein and Revolve). Going off that, another issue stems from the Internet in
cool is simple, just look in the dictionary (for all intents and purposes, the Dictionary of Slang defines it as follows: late nineteenth
general. Trends live and die online so quickly, pushed into the mainstream seemingly seconds after anyone deemed as “one to watch”
century+: good or fine or pleasing; twentieth century: calm, self-possessed, aware and sophisticated; 1940+: fashionable, chic
touches it, that few things of this era last, whether that means clothing or celebrity. Seeing through the chaos can be demanding.
or with it) but capturing the essence of it is an entirely different matter. After all, whose decision is it whether you’re “with it” or not?
Just because this person has several million Instagram followers are they cool? Just because Vetements is hailed as “fashion’s
How is it possible to put a word with such a rich history, a word that traces its origins to African culture and created icons amongst
coolest label” (taken straight from a recent Marie Claire headline) does it carry weight? Well considering many of these Instagram-
the likes of Marlon Brando and James Dean, into a tiny box? What’s cool to me definitely isn’t cool to you (unless you are the one
mers use their sway to push product and with Vetements’ meteoric rise they now have publications like Marie Claire labelling them
other person who prides themself on guessing guest-stars on The Simpsons before the credits roll) so how could what was cool,
as cool (not to mention Taylor Swift, the Queen of the Mainstream, sports the label on the cover of this month’s Vogue), it’s hard to
let’s say, thirty years ago, still be viable today? Answer: it’s probably not. Sure, there are exceptions, but let’s not get into those,
take either too seriously. Central Saint Martins student Natalie Chui comments, “It’s almost cooler to not be cool. People take on so
(looking at you Rolling Stones and wayfarers). The point is, every generation has it’s own interpretation of cool, and while the anti-autho-
many personas, it’s just about going against the social grain at that moment in time.” When asked who defined cool for our genera-
rity nature of this usually causes distress amongst parents, ours is simply being shat on. We aren’t rebellious enough, hedonistic
tion, Chui struggled, eventually naming Julian Casablancas, lead singer of The Strokes (and 37 years old) and director David Lyn-
enough; basically we aren’t cool enough for the out of touch world around us. Here’s a giant middle finger to that. The irony is the
ch (70 years old), neither exactly millennials. Neil Boorman, who’s list of credentials is a melting pot of badass endeavors including
people saying this are the reason we can’t be all of those things. We’re a world in crisis, from the environment to the economy (hel-
editor in chief of Sleazenation and writing Bonfire of the Brands: How I Learnt to Live Without Labels, is now the content director at
lo student loans, good day to you first-generation-to-never-own-a-home) and we’re doing our best with the hand we’ve been dealt.
creative agency, Mother. He adds that “Cool is totally subjective, so there are no definitive icons of cool. But the closest you can get
to it right now is Kaytranada and the designers at Ader Error.” As far as where to look to in fashion, Boorman believes, “Any brand
Boomers). Pret a Manger, a favorite amongst young professionals and students, is launching a veggie only pop-up in Soho this
that appears on someone that’s cool is cool by association.” Is that the final nail being hammered in to Vetements’ coffin I hear?
summer after a surge in sales of their vegetarian dishes. As The Guardian pointed out in 2013, we were, “the first generation that was taught sustainability concepts in school, who came of age amid the climate crisis, and boasting a hefty dose of skepticism when
With no one to turn to as a style symbol, how could one ever expect to know how to dress like one of the cool kids? Have no fear,
it comes to trusting companies,” so it only makes since that we are adopting more eco-friendly diets. Perhaps our power as the
a quick search on Man Repeller and you’ll be slapped with headlines from “Cool Commuter Shoes” to “How to Dress for a Cool
largest living generation is to bend companies to our will (insert evil laugh) and that’s where our rebel cries will be heard. Does all
Friend’s Wedding” and their series “Cool Pants Friday” just to name a few. Phew! MR’s article “How to Fake Cool” recommends
of this mean that it’s now cool to give a shit about what we’re putting into our bodies? Just like giving up binge drinking this goes against
a leather jacket, sunglasses, high rise vintage Levi’s, black boots and a striped t-shirt. The groundbreaking proposals sound a
the very essence of what cool stands for, a general sense of rebellion and danger. There isn’t much anarchy in chia seeds. But,
bit like a how to for joining The Ramones, no? Perhaps the familiarity stems from the uniform’s love affair with tastemakers since
the way many young people feel is that we’re responsible for the mess left by our elders so we don’t have the freedom to be reck-
the 1950s. Andy Warhol sported a similar look, as did his muse Edie Sedgwick. The leather jacket alone deserves an ode to
less with our choices. Our so-called “boring lifestyles” were forced upon us by the carelessness of those who came before us.
cool: Marianne Faithfull in The Girl on a Motorcycle, Robert Mapplethorpe, Lou Reed, Joan Jett, Debbie Harry and of course Marlon Brando in The Wild One. The list goes on and on. Why a leather jacket? Because that one article of clothing implies what
So yes, the generation gap is blurred. Our parents, and way too many others over the age of forty-five might be holding on to a time of litt-
cool stands for, namely defiance and sex. For some that meant rock and roll or motorcycle gangs, others it meant beatniks (i.e.
le consequence, but we’re moving on. We see that the hey-day of raves and subcultures has passed and that the current atmosphere
Yves Saint Laurent’s 1960 collection for Dior inspired by Paris’s Left Bank). But the important thing to note here is that the peo-
won’t allow it to be recreated. It isn’t without a hint of remorse that we watch Dazed and Confused, Quadrophenia, Saturday Night Fever
ple wearing the leather jackets, had the attitude to make them cool. The thing that all of these “guides” forget to mention is that
and ponder if we’d be a mod or rocker. Nostalgia is after all, a defining factor of our generation. But when it comes to cool, so what if we aren’t
you can’t just throw this stuff on and become James Dean. Going back to Boorman’s observation, the clothes are only as cool as
out every night, if “their” music was better (they didn’t write it did they? DID THEY?) and the glory days are gone forever, it’s our turn to
the people who wear them. Corny as hell, I know, but it’s why some people look like jackasses in Nasir Mazhar and others don’t.
shape this world, so with anxiety in our hearts and a kale smoothie in our hands, let’s fuck shit up (or you know, go to bed, whatever).
An article in The Telegraph written by twenty-four year old journalist, Rachel Dove, labelled us “Generation Yawn.” Clever and provocative or insulting? She used statistics by Fiona Measham, a professor at Durham University, who has been studying the patterns of alcohol and drug use amongst young people for the last twenty years. According to Measham “The generation before Generation Y were bar-hopping, binge-drinking and taking cocaine. Now there isn’t that frenzied drunkenness. There’s a new sense of sobriety among young people.” This has been documented on zeitgeist show, Girls where this season, two of the shows wildest characters, Adam (Adam Driver) and Jessa (Jemima Kirke) sparked a romance in Alcoholics Anonymous. As two twenty-somethings living in Brooklyn, their sobriety, along with this season’s notable absence of crazy parties in favor of cultural outings and existential crises, felt more real than the show has in years. Not all of us are out getting pissed so this apparently makes us boring. I refuse to turn this into a rant but remind me the last time you saw someone vomiting on the side of the road and thought to yourself, man there’s a cool ass mother-fucker.
Walking down my street, I was struck with what I thought was déjà-vu , but turned out to just be two competitively placed establishments, a sugar-free bakery and a gluten-free bakery. Their chalkboards both advertised organic ingredients and vegan options and the queues spilling out the doors weren’t of middle-aged mothers, but young, bearded men and women with topknots. A report conducted by the Nielsen Global Health and Wellness Survey last year of 30,000 Americans showed that young people (specifically Generations Y and Z) are the most likely to spend more money for healthier products than any other age group (41% of Generation Z and 32% Generation of Y agreed to this compared to only 16% of the Silent Generation and 21% of Baby
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2.
Make plans you can’t get out off
It’s too easy to bail on plans today, one WhatsApp message to the group chat and then flight-mode your phone. Not one ounce of guilt follows. But if you make plans that require a reservation or a ticket you’re more likely to want to go, or at least feel bad about not going. No one has money to waste so once you’ve committed to booking, these plans are set in stone.
3.
Turn off auto play
Auto-Play is the devil. If it wasn’t easy enough to access every single episode of every single season, having a manipulating little icon at the bottom of your screen tempting you with the very next episode, has taken things to a whole new level. In fact, we blame auto-play for the entire issue of Netflix addiction. So turn it off. Heading to the Netflix web site in your browser. Sign in and go to the Your Account page. Find the “Playback settings” link in the My Profile section and click it. Under Preferences, uncheck the box next to “Play next episode automatically.
How to Seek Culture outside of Netflix By Olivia Murphy
4.
Don’t be a sucker to the cliff hanger
TV series are written and directed to draw the viewer back and watch the next episode. If they weren’t, what would be the point? So of course every episode ends with a cliff hanger. Back in the old days (Netflix began streaming 2007) people had to wait an entire week for the next episode, they had no choice! It built excitement and anticipation. Try watching series the way they’re supposed to be watched, bit by bit, episode by episode. It will probably be more satisfying.
Raise your hand if you’ve ever bailed on plans with friends or family to fester in your bed watching Netflix. This is a safe space, you’re not alone and admitting that you have an addiction is the first step to recovery, so good for you for being honest. Develo-
5.
ping Netflix dependency is never an intention when clicking Season 1 Episode 1 at 11.30am on a Saturday. But before you know
Why not try seeing something beyond the four walls of your small, overpriced bedroom? (If you have a lounge then
it you’ve spiraled into a never ending binge. It’s now 1am, your eyes sting, you’ve forgotten all forms of social interaction and
you’re already doing better than the rest of us at life.) Go and see a play, or a piece of performance art, perhaps even a
you’re candidly picking crisp crumbs off your chest for a snack. If that wasn’t bad enough, it’s natural to find yourself lying to col-
musical if you’re feeling really optimistic. This article isn’t entitled to “Seek Culture” for nothing, go and seek culture.
Experience the live
leagues on Monday morning about what you did over the weekend, because Netflix binges are not something to gush about. So if you’re tired of living this life, and you’re ready to seek culture beyond your laptop screen, here’s our fool proof guide of how…
6.
Remember what it’s like to socialize
Believe it or not, hanging out with your friends, without the aid of a screen is actually really fun. This ad1.
Set an alarm… multiple alarms
First things first what has to be made clear is that watching Netflix is ok, hell it’s great, and you shouldn’t deny yourself of good
dress’s more than just Netflix, here we’re talking about all forms of distractions when socializing. Turn off your laptop, step outside and keep your phones in your bag. Talk to the person you’re with, be radical.
TV. So, we suggest that you set an alarm before you begin watching. Give yourself an hour or two, (but no more than two) of dedicated series time and once your alarm goes off, snapping you back into reality, it’s time to call it a day. Set more than one,
7.
Go cold turkey
you know what you’re like.
Ever considered canceling your subscription all together? Ha, not us either, worth a try though.
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Aidan Zamiri (20) , @aidanzamiri is a graphic design student at Central Saint Martins who has found paving his own way in set design more rewarding than academia. Do you think the education system is failing young creatives? Tuition fees are only going up, and some feel that the creative industry, which How has it been balancing university with additional work and interning you’ve been doing throughout the year?
requires you to do internships for free, will become only an industry for the rich. Do you agree?
Very difficult. The main issue, especially when working within London, is that I feel like I have to grab every possible opportunity
Money is a massive problem, it’s extremely limiting and often creates extremely unfair differences between those who come from
that comes my way in case I lose out. This means that often I feel like I’m putting uni work to the back of my mind and treating it
money and those don’t. It’s fair to say that fashion and art is often a luxury for the rich, those who don’t have money often simply
as a
can’t realise their vision because they don’t have access to the means and opportunities that are so easily attainable for the af-
secondary thing to real industry work.
fluent.
What kind of projects do you have on the side of university?
How do you think this would affect the industry?
I work mostly in set design and sometimes in direction. This mostly allows me to make my own work even when I’m working for
Those with privilege live very different experiences from those without. Personally, I feel that the best creative work is born out
someone else. I feel like it’s more rewarding than interning because I am able to work on my own terms and do things that I’m
of struggle so I worry that, if dominated by the wealthy, many voices would be lost and drowned out by images of the exclusive
interested in. I assist set designers and sometimes stylists such as Gary Card, William Farr, Charlotte Roberts and some others.
and unattainable.
I’ve done set design and direction work for a couple photographers and recently worked a lot with a band called Dream Wife. What are your current goals you are working towards in terms of your future and career? How necessary do you think a degree is for you? You are deferring your final year to pursue real work, to build your portfolio and connections,
It’s easy to get caught up on this industry’s ideas of “success” (how trendy or “grammable” you are, whether your work is in this
aren’t you?
magazine or you went to that party) but I try to remind myself that ultimately I just want to be able to look back on my life and
I’m sometimes not sure that a degree would necessarily help me in my area of work as my course, Graphic Design, doesn’t really
feel like I made loads of things that I really liked, things that I think are cool. I enjoy working in the 3d, spatial realm of design but
help much with my practice. I think I’m going to defer for a year to give me the chance to grab all the opportunities that I can
I don’t want to limit myself to that. I get bored really quickly so it’s nice to dip my toe into loads of different areas of practice so I
without feeling guilty for it. However, I do think that studying has improved my practice tenfold and I certainly don’t resent being
don’t know what I’ll end up doing when I’m a grown up.
on my course. Do you consider yourself an adult? What do you think makes an ‘adult’ these days? Is there a chance you won’t return?
No, not really. I’m not a teenager anymore because I guess I’m in charge of my life, I’m independent and make my own deci-
No, I think I’ll definitely come back if I defer for a year. Mostly, I want to get my money’s worth and get the degree, but also, I re-
sions but I don’t feel like an adult. Working creatively always gives you a sense of play in my opinion. It’s not a real job to be
ally do value the things I do at uni. Doing projects here gives me the chance to experiment a lot more and often indulge in ideas
honest. I still get stressed but I just need to remind myself that I’m getting stressed over whether or not something looks good
that could be seen as impossible. The discipline and rigidity of being on a structured course is really important, especially when
which is really fun. In that way, I don’t think I need to become an adult ever because my main priorities in life will always be
working in a creative field, for keeping you on track.
about fun things.
does it get any easier?
£7.00