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A Window into a Remarkable Northern Oklahoma Prairie Experience by Alana Owen
Pictured from front to back are the Woolaroc’s trail guides who host the twice annual bring your own horse fund raiser rides. Guest are treated to two meals on Saturday and an on site dry camp location Friday prior to the two Saturday day rides. Interviewees Wes Butcher (second from the left) and Roger Butcher (second from the right) are full time year around employees of the preservation. Photo by Alana Owen
A Window into a Remarkable NORTHERN OKLAHOMA PRAIRIE EXPERIENCE
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by ALANA OWEN
Last year when a group of friends decided to ride horses together at a benefit trail ride in Bartlesville, we had no idea what to expect. Not being native to Oklahoma, I was not even sure where Bartlesville was. After registering for the trip, paying fees, and signing waivers, we pulled out the trusty old atlas and away we went.
When we arrived at the Woolaroc Museum & Wildlife Preserve, we set up dry camp for a night and watched the buffalo meander alongside us just feet away on the opposite side of a fence. We drank wine and watched the sun go down, amazed at how beautiful it was. It was an easy decision what I wanted to write about for the travel edition this month. The timing was perfect because we were getting ready to sign up for the annual ride at Woolaroc again.
This year we continued to explore the grounds and meet new friends during the benefit ride. The Woolaroc Museum & Wildlife Preserve is situated in a remote area on 3,700 acres. It was founded by oilman Frank Phillips (founder of Phillips Petroleum and marketed as Phillips 66) as a retreat in the Osage hills of northeastern Oklahoma. In 1925, Will Rogers referred to the location as “the most unique place in the country.” Phillips named the location Woolaroc to reference the presence of woods, lakes, and rocks.
Today the preserve contains over thirty different species of native and exotic wildlife including bison, elk, water buffalo, exotic deer, and longhorn cattle. The museum is mesmerizing with a large collection of western art and artifacts and one of the largest collections of Colt firearms in the country. My personal favorite inside the museum is the Woolaroc airplane which won the Dole Air Race in 1927. I will not spoil the details of the plane or the race because it is much better to experience the story during your visit while viewing the plane suspended in the air inside the museum. The preserve was once a
haven for bandits and outlaws and a thriving retreat for those famous enough to get invited. The Phillips family hosted over 200,000 guests including presidents and actors. The lodge is worth a visit as it remains much as it was when Phillips was alive and present.
Much to my surprise, the equine event was not my favorite outside exploration. Just hiking the trails and wandering upon the Mountain Man Camp far exceeds any expectations visitors may have. During the trail ride this year I spent time with Wes and Roger Butcher who are employed full time at the preserve. Our schedule was so packed (two-day rides and two meals were provided), that I had to call Wes later in the week to complete my interview. The Mountain Man Camp is a living history event that recreates the life of a fur trader in the 1800s. Guests can also experience what it is like to throw a tomahawk and shoot a black powder long gun.
Brothers Wes and Roger Butcher are the primary mountain men that run the camp. Wes was born in Pawhuska and lived on the Drummond Ranch where his father was a foreman. The Drummond Ranch employed several foremen with each given about 3,000 acres to care for. When Wes was in fifth grade, he began receiving pay for his own work riding horseback. Wes fondly recalled his childhood explaining his first purchase with his earned money was a muzzleloader.
Wes approached Woolaroc around 1992 and suggested that they run a mountain man pilot program where he would entertain the public with a mountain man camp. Shortly thereafter he was hired to do the work and eventually became a full-time employee. Both men work taking care of the animals and the lands during the winter months and assist with winter programs such as hanging lights and riding horses lit up with lights to entertain guests. Wes’s favorite activity at Woolaroc is definitely the Mountain Man Camp, and he enjoys the children visiting at Kidsfest. During this time the children are able to visit their camp site, throw a tomahawk, and shoot a bow. Wes has been elk-hunting in Colorado annually since he was in high school. He said he has taken a horse or a mule each year, except for the few times he attempted to go on foot and was quickly reminded that packing out an elk is “too hard for a fat boy” without an equine.
While talking with Wes I could easily convince myself I am back in the 1800’s. His subtle adult jokes and the twang in his voice left me wondering if he really is from a different time or at least really living the lifestyle. The interview felt like speaking with a combination of characters such as Festus from Gunsmoke, the actor John Wayne, cowboy turned actor Slim Pickens, and Grandfather Walton from one of my favorite childhood shows (think Charlton Heston in the movie Mountain Men). One of those entertaining discussions involved Wes’ past, his present, and a history lesson all at once. I had to politely ask Wes to slow down, repeat his words, and give me some time while I processed the several visual images of his descriptive stories that invaded my mind, leaving me slightly overwhelmed by the wealth of details and humor. Apparently, according to Wes, the term Mad Hatter came from the 1800s when hat makers were using mercury to stiffen their hats which caused them to “go mad and eventually die” because “they knew no better.”
A joke about women who used the make-up products containing mercury quickly followed and no offense was taken, as his persona and storytelling is just who he is.
Wes has been married to his wife Joy for 41 years. Joy’s rich American Indian heritage used to frequently be present at the ranch as she would dress in traditional attire and do bead work in their earlier years together. Wes said Joy does not ride much anymore but still comes down to visit and partake in some of the special events. Wes described how he misses her presence in his typical humorous fashion by stating, “I used to eat better when she would come down often, although once in a while she would have enough and just take her bag of groceries and go home.”
Other events held at the preserve include a music festival on June 10, 2022, Kidsfest from June 25 and 26, 2022, Camp Woolaroc from July 19 to 28, 2022, SASS Cowboy Shoot from August 4 to 6, 2022, the fall trail ride on September 17, 2022, Cow Thieves and Outlaws Reunion on September 24, 2022, The Gathering at the Roc on October 1, 2022, and the Fall Traders Encampment on October 7 and 8, 2022. During the winter, the Woolaroc hosts the Woolaroc Wonderland of Lights every Friday through Sunday, November 25-27 and December 2-18, 2022. Visitors should check the website for additional events and exhibits and confirm dates prior to their visit.
For an additional adventure approximately 25 miles down the road in Pawhuska, you can explore the Pioneer Woman Mercantile: a restaurant, bakery, and general store. The mercantile was founded in 2016, by the “Pioneer Woman”, Ree Drummond. Drummond has added on to the town with an eight room Inn (The Boarding House), a pizza shop, and Charlie’s Sweet Shop. If you plan to explore Pawhuska after a visit to Woolaroc, plan to slow your pace down and take your time as the Mercantile’s popularity will not allow a quick exploration. Like with all popular places, the lines can be long.
Safe travels and enjoy your destinations. n
The statues, history, grounds, and artifacts are remarkable at the Woolaroc Wildlife Museum and Preservation. Founder Frank Phillips was intrigued by outlaws, cowboys, and bandits, as demonstrated in the landscaping.