A Window into Fine Wine and Out of State Exotic Dining by Alana Owen

Fine Wine and Out of State Exotic Dining

PHOTO by ALANA OWEN

Pictured are Owen family grapes, transplanted from the family vineyard to Oklahoma. The grapes produced the best crop yet this year, since they were planted in Oklahoma soil in 2009.

My West Coast roots, combined with approaching two decades as an Oklahoman, makes for a dynamic collision of the palates and food preferences.

by ALANA OWEN

Iwas especially excited to hear the September issue is featuring dining. My West Coast roots, combined with approaching two decades as an Oklahoman, makes for a dynamic collision of the palates and food preferences.

Growing up connected to agriculture and marrying into a family with a lifetime of crop production makes me take great interest in growing food. When my motherin-law passed away, we took cuttings of the family grape vineyard and planted the bare branches in Oklahoma. Much to our surprise, several years later they have continued to hold on and prosper.

Everyone has been distracted by the drought, my husband and I included. Yet while I was out watering the garden and taking stock of the casualties, I peeked into the darkness beneath the grape leaves to find the most prolific crop of grapes since transplanting our family roots in Okie soil. It was nearly overlooked. A reminder that nature brings balance, and bleakness can bring opportunities, if we are willing to look. It would seem the drier than normal conditions this year eliminated the rust, mildew, and ripe rot, among other things. The crop was so successful this year we were able to eat our fill and make grape jelly to share.

My husband’s family began producing grapes in the 1980s and created a beautiful vineyard in the 1990s, harvesting and selling the grapes under contract for wine production. A few bottles of the wine still remain on a countertop in our kitchen, although we lost my husband’s parents in several years back. My husband’s brother, who remains in California, is now retired and works at a bay area winery. I asked what made him want to continue working in a vineyard when he does not need to. He responded, “I always liked all aspects of the wine business, going back to the days of starting the business with my parents. The majority of the time I welcome visitors to the winery and introduce them to all of the wines. I meet people from all over the world.”

I interviewed two wineries along the Oklahoma corridor to discuss their businesses, how they started, and where they sell their products. Near me physically is the Sparks Vineyard & Winery. I visited with JL Gilbert who runs the winery with his wife, I-Na Chao. The pair were looking for something to do, possibly easier, while approaching their retirement years. Yet as the business has grown, they are working harder now than they did during their 50s.

The couple started Sparks winery in 1998 and opened in 2001. The winery resides on 970 Road in Sparks and is open Saturday and Sunday from 11 to 4, and by special appointment for other events or visits. The location was recently upgraded to include a confer-

PHOTO PROVIDED

Sparks Vineyard and Winery places their bottles on display upon entrance to the building. . The presentation adds the the decor, while making it easy to select purchases.

ence room and has hosted some smaller weddings recently. The business began with dry wines and eventually evolved more varieties including the sweet wines. A customer favorite is the Deep Fork Red. When I asked JL what his favorite wine was, he responded, “I just don’t make anything I wouldn’t want to drink myself.” The wines are marketed online and are found in many liquor and grocery stores such as Crest and Homeland. The wines’ sales have increased to the point that JL has had to limit distribution. He explained this is primarily due to the changes to Oklahoma liquor laws allowing additional places to send the product to market. My favorite part of the interview with JL was learning about awards and wine and food pairings. When asked about awards, JL explained, “To us the gold medal is when the customer tries it, likes it, and buys the wine.” I inquired about the best way to decide which wine to match with which type of food, and JL was quick to answer. “It used to be red wine with red meat, and white wine with white meat; now the rule is you drink the wine you like with the food you enjoy eating.”

The second winery I chatted with was Wild Horse Canyon Farms in Luther. Rob Pierce, a family friend of the owner and operations manager of the winery, was pleasant and generous with his time. Rob referred to owner Margaret (and Andy) Schaben as a second mom. The family bought 180 acres as a family venture and began producing grapes in 2010. They planted 4,000 vines on 35 acres after some friends expressed interest in wine making. The Sublime Sangria is the vineyard’s most popular wine. The wine is sold at stores such as Homeland, as well as many Oklahoma liquor stores. Rob expects the business to be

ready to sell and ship wine using the operation’s website later this year. Rob advised customers should begin looking for the popular Red Plum wine to return this fall. Production was halted in the recent past due to a shortage of sand plums, yet recently the supply has been sufficient.

Both wineries attend local events such as farmer’s markets, state fairs, and other wine related events.

Now for the fine eatery out of state. Al the Wop’s, constructed in 1915, is located in California within the town of Locke on the Sacramento Delta. Locke was established by Chinese migrants and the history is seen and felt throughout the almost forgotten border-line ghost town. I have been frequenting the restaurant since I was a small child with my mother. The restaurant has been serving steak with jam as long as I can recall. More recently tables are decorated with peanut butter and peppers. The establishment was purchased recently by a couple who have redone the inside slightly with white paint, and it appears they removed all the dollar bills on the ceiling, some older than me, and rehung them strategically, again on the ceiling. Al is long since passed but some of his comments in years back about the restaurant included wanting to make it a place for the working man to come in, relax, and leave your worries behind. I recall one specific time I visited Al’s as a teenager and one of those nice-looking young teens stopped in for lunch with the farmer he worked for. I made eyes at him, but it stopped there as my mother was with me. Years later I discovered my husband frequented the same place nearly weekly while working the fields with the farmers. I like to think that was him I saw that day all those years ago, and with each trip to California our first stop is the place we first saw one another, at the infamous Al the Wop’s. If you are looking for an eccentric place to dine outside of Sacramento, there is no other like Al’s in the town of Locke. No dress code, no pretenses. It remains today just the way Al wanted it. A bucket list visit for sure.

Cheers fellow Oklahomans, I hope you enjoy your fall food and wine destinations. n

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Wild Horse Canton Farms proudly displays one of their wines overlooking their vineyard located in Luther, OK

PHOTO by STEVE MARTARANO

Patrons surround the bar at Al the Wops, a quirky little restaurant located in the small delta town of Locke, outside of Sacramento, CA. The ceiling holds dollar bills the restaurant has collected from customers since its opening in 1915.