Issue 17, 2022 - Preview

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SPRING ISSUET

2022

special issue

Music Makers Display untiluntil MayNovember 26, 202229, Display Display until November 29,2020 2020

A LIFE IN BLUEGRASS Del McCoury opens up about working with Bill Monroe FEELING BLUE Travel down music’s famed Hwy 61 in MS

COUNTRY MUSIC celebrates its birthplace in both Bristol TN and VA ELIZABETH WISE Reaps her rewards with reckless abandon


“Fresh from the pond to your plate since 1982”

S I M M O N S C AT F I S H . C O M

Caramelized catfish with pot liquor braise, wild rice, and pickled mustards FINE & DANDY • JACKSON, MS


CELEBRATING SEASON 10! Vera Stewart is the host of the VeryVera Show, syndicated across the southeast in 34 markets. The show combines Vera’s natural teaching ability and etiquette insight with modern twists to your grandmother’s favorite recipes. Vera Stewart is also a nationally recognized cookbook author whose career in the food and hospitality industry spans nearly four decades. MA R K E T S AL : Mobile • Huntsville • Dothan • FL : Tampa • Pensacola • GA : Albany • Augusta • Columbus • Cordele Macon • Savannah • IN : Evansville • Indianapolis • LA : Lake Charles • MD : Hagerstown • MN : Rochester • MS : Jackson Hattiesburg NC : Charlotte NY : Watertown • OK : Oklahoma City • SC : Myrtle Beach • Charleston • Columbia • Greenville TX : Austin • Dallas • Harlingen • Houston • Victoria • Waco • VA : Richmond • Roanoke • WI : Madison

veryvera.com

@veryverastewart


28: AN UNBROKEN CIRCLE

Keeping alive the birthplace of country music in Bristol Tennessee / Virginia

38: A LIFE IN BLUEGRASS

The Elder Statesman of Bluegrass, Del McCoury talks about his life in bluegrass and Bill Monroe

STORIES

44: RIDING WITH THE BLUES

Travel Mississippi’s Blues Highway 61 and experience the most famous road in music

50: CREATIVE JOURNEY

58: THE ROAD TO RASSAWEK

Craig Martin and Earl Bridges travel to Richmond and learn about the most ancient city in America

Photography courtesy Lafayette Tourism

Anya Burgess never dreamed she would be making violins for others in LA


CHAPTERS EDITORIAL

SOUTHERN SNAPSHOTS

PG 7: OUR CONTRIBUTORS

PG 68: ALONG THE ROAD

A 100 year old music hall is resurrected to celebrate racial awarenes and the arts in MS.

Meet the people who make our stories come to life.

PG 74: SOUTHERN C HARACTER

PG 88: FINDINGS

Husband and wife teachers leave indelible marks on their students in NC

Nostalgia and observations about the South through the eyes of a Northern transplant living in Alabama.

PG 78: L AY OF THE L AND

Our readers submit photos of their special Southern places and people

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18 SOUTHERN COMFORTS

A ROAD LESS TRAVELED

PG 10: PORKY GOODNESS

PG 84: WANDERING

Katie Throne turned her BBQ sauce making hobby into a thriving business.

The South’s premier native plant conservatory, Crosby Arboretum, in Pearl River, MS

PG 14: ON OUR PL ATE

Brunswick stew and condiments made with Green Tomatoes.

PG 18: PAGES

Christy Bush shares 30 years of rock n’ roll, fashion and coming of age in the South.

PG 20: LISTEN UP

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FRONT COVER

Nothing but the blues. Photograph by Umkehrer

Elizabeth Wise, Dave Hause and Tugalo Holler are on the radar with new music.

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STAFF

Scott Speakes Publisher Genie Gaither Jones Editor-in-Chief Rebecca Cashwell Design Director J. M. McSpadden Liesel Schmidt Contributing Editors Richard L. Jones Copy Editor

Advertising Sales Specialists Brittany Sanders brmcdonald45@gmail.com Scott Speakes scott@okramagazine.com

CONNECT WITH US facebook.com/okramagazine @okramag contact@okramagazine.com

Published by Southbound Publishing, Inc.

okramagazine.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

JIM BEAUGEZ is a Mississippi-based writer whose work has been published by Rolling Stone, Smithsonian, Oxford American, Garden & Gun, Guitar World and other publications. He also created and produced “My Life in Five Riffs,” a documentary series for Guitar Player that traces contemporary musicians back to their sources of inspiration. jimbeaugez@gmail.com

DEBORAH BURST is a New Orleans native, author, and award winning writer/photographer with a portfolio of more than a thousand articles and photos including national covers. She has written five travel/photo books featuring the South, its people, critters, landscapes, mystical legends and historic architecture. From hidden graveyards and sacred temples to the shrouded bayous and forests, Deb gives a voice to all the spirits. deborahburst.com

MARIANNE LEEK is a retired high school educator who continues to teach part-time at Tri-County Community College. She lives with her husband in western North Carolina, where she spends much of her free time enjoying the outdoors. Her work can be found in The Bitter Southerner.

J. M. MCSPADDEN is a freelance writer and music enthusiast whose work has appeared online at theflamestillburns.com, and at mbird.com, a journal that examines faith in the real world. His love for roots music led to a gig at nodepression.com, where he reported on live music from The Birchmere, the famed music hall in Washington, DC. He is fascinated with the way words and music impact our lives and can be used as a vehicle for healing. Host of The Village Night Owl podcast, an interview show featuring musical artists. He lives in Virginia with his wife Suzanne where he is at work on his first novel.

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Put a

p e t s two r u o y n i

In Lafayette, Spring is a good time to dance. We have a lot of things to celebrate - the food, the people, the days we spend together - Come on over, we’ll teach you how to two-step.

LAFAYETTE L O U I S I A N A

Seasoned to Celebrate LafayetteTravel.com/Spring

800 346 1958


CHAPTER 1

SOUTHERN COMFORTS

Photography by Victority

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Photo: Andrew Shurtleff


F O O D

PORKY GOODNESS FOR KATIE THRONE, THE SECRET’S IN THE SAUCE

Written by Liesel Schmidt / Photography courtesy Katie Throne They say that necessity is the mother of invention, but it’s also the inspiration

One taste of the sauce, and it’s clear that Throne has talent. She also has

for so many entrepreneurs—Katie Throne being one of them. Known for the

passion, which has been the driving force in getting her product out there for

mason jars of barbecue sauce that she had been making for more than a

public consumption, rather than keeping it as a hobby that she shares only

decade, when the world plunged headlong into a pandemic and more people

with her friends. “I love to cook,” she says. “It is definitely my passion. I love

were at home and spending time in the kitchen, Throne’s sauce came in high

experimenting and coming up with my own recipes for just about everything,

demand. Finding herself with time on her hands, she decided to make her

and I really got into cooking on various smokers a few years ago. I feel like my

sauce more than just a hobby.

love for barbeque continues to grow, and I love learning something new every day and trying new methods.”

Launched in March 2021, Porky Goodness took Throne’s recipe and bottled it,

Still, it was a great leap of faith for Throne

taking things to small-batch production

to launch a company—especially in the

with a co-packer that far outpaces her own

midst of a pandemic that was turning the

kitchen operation. “When I made it in my

world upside down. But that was precisely

kitchen, I was making about two gallons

what made it worth the risk. “I love making

at a time. Now, we are able to make 40

people happy through my food,” Throne

gallons at a time using the same small-

says. “When my friends, especially their

batch process,” says Throne, a Realtor in

kids, really got into the sauce I wanted to

Athens, Georgia, and Associate Broker at

do this for them. I honestly thought, if noth-

Sound Real Estate.

ing else, this would be something exciting

Despite the change in volume, Throne

for them in the midst of the depressing

has been extremely dedicated to maintain-

pandemic. Who knew we would sell 3,000

ing the integrity of her product, following the recipe and using only the best ingredi-

Katie Throne

ents. “When we set out to bottle the sauce,

bottles nine months later! I have the kids to thank for wearing their Porky merch everywhere!”

it was important to me to stick as closely as possible to the way I make it in my

A vinegar-based BBQ sauce that offers just the right amount of tanginess

kitchen,” she explains. “We used quality ingredients and went to great lengths

and kick, Porky Goodness was created with the purpose of truly being an

to make sure that the sauce did not contain high fructose corn syrup and that

all-purpose sauce. “You can use it on just about everything,” Throne contends.

there are no preservatives added. That was important to me.”

“I love hearing the crazy ways people use it. I have to say, I was most surprised

As personal as the recipe is to her, so, too, is the name of the company. “Since I have been making the sauce for years for my friends, we all started

to have some loyal vegetarian customers who buy it by the case. It’s not only great on meat, but also veggies and tofu, as well!”

sort of jokingly calling it Porky Goodness. When it came time to bottle it, I

As divisive as barbecue sauce can be in different regions of the South,

wondered if we should keep that name,” she says. “The overwhelming re-

Porky Goodness is one that seems to embody all the best qualities of multiple

sponse was yes!”

regions. “It’s funny how no one really talks about Georgia barbecue sauces,”

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SOUTHERN COMFORTS

THIS VINEGAR-BASED BBQ SAUCE OFFERS JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT OF TANGINESS AND KICK

notes Throne, who is originally from Augusta and graduated from UGA in 1998, returning to Athens in 2002. “North Carolina transplants told me that Porky Goodness reminded them of their beloved vinegar sauces back home. I also heard the sauce had a tangy kick and a simplicity reminiscent of Texas barbecue. Everyone referenced nearby states renowned for their signature sauces, so I thought to myself, ‘Why isn’t anyone talking about Georgia?’ So this is my Georgia barbecue sauce—a tangy tomato and peppery vinegar mix.” As Throne considers the long-term of her company, she sees an expanded product line in the near future. “I love being creative in the kitchen and trying new things, so I hope to continue to expand my product line,” she says. “Right now, I am working on a line of barbecue rubs. I tested them out at the holiday markets, and they sold out. I plan to have them on the website soon and in stores this spring so keep an eye out for Tanya Clucker and Patsy Swine!” Feeling the need to pay it forward and give back, Throne created a special edition that would benefit an organization that holds deep personal meaning to her. “I have a close friend and big Porky Goodness supporter who was diagnosed with breast cancer last summer, so I ‘turned the pig pink’ and created special pink labels for our bottles for Breast Cancer Awareness Month in October,” she says. “We sold out and raised $2500 for The Beautiful You Boutique/Loran Smith Cancer Center at Piedmont Athens Regional Hospital to help local women with breast cancer.” Porky Goodness can be purchased online at porkygoodnessbbq.com with free local delivery, as well as nationwide shipping. Bottles are also sold at Striplings General Store in Bogart, Appointments at Five in Athens, and online through Collective Harvest’s Farm Stand. “It is my goal this year to get the sauce in many more stores across Georgia to make it easily accessible for anyone who wants it!” Throne says. For the Athens-based entrepreneur, the sky is the limit—and she’s seeing pigs fly through the air.

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Clockwise from upper left, 1: The name started as a joke between Throne and friends as she had been making it for years. She decided to keep the name when she started the business. 2: BBQ Chicken, a Southern favorite. 3: A pulled pork sandwich simply must have more sauce added to it. 4: An avid cook, Throne really got into cooking on various smokers a few years ago. “I feel like my love for barbeque continues to grow, and I love learning something new every day and trying new methods.” 5: Making sauce in her kitchen, Throne was making about two gallons at a time. Now, she is able to make 40 gallons at a time using the same small-batch process.


Photo by bhofack2

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T WO C I T I E S , O N E ST E W WRITTEN BY JULIA HAYNES / PHOTOGRAPHY& RECIPE COURTESY OF KATIE THRONE

There is a long-standing rivalry about the origins of Brunswick Stew. Two cities with the same name – Brunswick, Georgia and Brunswick, Virginia – claim bragging rights to this delicious stew. It’s a friendly rivalry that has been going on for over a hundred years. Where did it originate? I’d never presume to guess. But it is one of my favorite dishes. Filled with smoky meats, vegetables and tangy sweet barbecue sauce, no Southern barbecue would be complete without it. I must confess, that though it now graces my table quite often and has a revered place in my recipe file, I never heard of it until I was in my early twenties. Shameful, I know. How, you ask, could an Alabama born and Georgia raised girl have never eaten Brunswick Stew? After, all, surely you went to a lot of barbecues. Sadly, there are a couple of answers to that question. First of all, I was an extremely picky eater when I was growing up. I would not try much of anything. Secondly, my father did not man the grill and neither did my mom. He was not a big meat eater and so our idea of pork was a pork roast for dinner. Yes, we went to a lot of barbecues but I’m sure I ate hamburgers or hot dogs. Remember, I was a very picky eater.

It wasn’t until I was in my early twenties and my then boyfriend, and now husband, took me to eat barbecue at Melears in Fairburn, Georgia. He ordered for me, because I was clueless, and there was this stew on the divided tray plate when it came to the table. I ate the delicious barbecue turning my nose up at what looked to me like a pile of brown mush. He finally convinced me to taste it. Well, one bite and I was hooked. There is hope for us picky eaters after all. Throughout the South, there are scores of local barbecue joints. Every one of them has their own way of barbecuing meats, making sauces and stews. Each is different and delicious. Some recipes call for Brunswick Stew to be made with all leftover smoked pork, all chicken, or a mixture of the two. I like mine mixed and this recipe submitted by Katie Throne, owner of Porky Goodness is just the way I like it. Normally a recipe for Brunswick Stew makes a huge pot. Katie has pared her recipe down and it only serves 4. So, if you want more you’ll have to double some ingredients. The final tastes are up to you. Add more salt, pepper, hot sauce and BBQ sauce if you want a little more kick. But whatever you do – Enjoy!

BRUNSWICK STEW INGREDIENTS 1 cup smoked pulled pork, chopped 1 cup smoked chicken, chopped 32 oz chicken stock 1/2 cup Porky Goodness BBQ Sauce 3 oz tomato paste 1/2 cup yellow onion, chopped

1 tsp minced garlic 1 cup corn 1 cup butter beans 1/2 tsp Worcestershire Sauce 1/2 tsp kosher salt 1/2 tsp black pepper

1/4 tsp red pepper flakes 1 Tbsp olive oil

DIRECTIONS 1. Add olive oil to a dutch oven on low-medium heat and add the chopped onion. Once the onions are translucent, add the garlic and stir for one minute. Add the tomato paste and stir for a few seconds before adding the chicken stock. 2. Add the vegetables and bring to a boil, then simmer about 25 minutes before adding the rest of the ingredients. Let it simmer for an hour to let the flavors come together, stirring occasionally. You can add more salt and pepper to taste or hot sauce and even BBQ sauce if you like more of a kick! Serves 4.

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F O R T H E L OV E O F G R E E N WRITTEN BY JULIA HAYNES

Photo by Andrew Cebulka

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Who doesn’t love green tomatoes? Whether fried, pickled, baked or used as a topping, green tomatoes are certainly a staple in the South and it’s easy to see why. Because they’re firmer and more dense than ripe tomatoes, green tomatoes can be cooked in ways that a ripe tomato simply can’t. Their acidic and tart flavor makes them perfect for so many things. The newest craze gracing restaurant menus across the South:

GREEN TOMATO MOSTARDO

green tomato-inspired condiments. The world of dips, spreads, and dressings is something people get particularly passionate about from fermented hot sauces to infused honeys. Using green tomatoes—which are bountiful year-round—Chef Mark Bolchoz of Indaco in Charleston, SC and Chef Ben Norton of Husk Nashville, TN are creating condiment riffs that have guests double and even triple dipping this season.

GREEN TOMATO TARTAR SAUCE INGREDIENTS 1 cup blue plate mayonnaise 1/2 cup pickled green tomatoes, chopped to relish 2 tbsp shallot, minced 2 tbsp scallion, finely sliced 1 tbsp dill, chopped 2 tsp lemon juice ½ tsp Worcestershire sauce

DIRECTIONS 1. Add tomatoes and sugar to a pot and bring to a boil over medium heat. Chill in the refrigerator overnight and repeat. 2. On the third day (after two boils and two nights of chilling,) bring the mixture to a simmer, adding spices, dijon, and vinegar. 3. Simmer for 15-20 minutes to achieve a thick, syrupy consistency. 4. Cool and serve with your favorite charcuterie and cheeses.

DIRECTIONS Add all ingredients to a small mixing bowl and stir until combined. This makes enough of the condiment for about 4 people and it goes really well with hush puppies, fried catfish, or fried oysters.

EXECUTIVE CHEF MARK BOLCHOZ a native Charlestonian, grew up surrounded by the cuisine and culture of the Lowcountry. Known for his time spent at the prestigious Peninsula Grill under one of Charleston’s most revered chefs, Graham Dailey, Bolchoz was named to the first Zagat’s ‘30 Under 30’ list for Charleston and helped the restaurant regain the coveted title of “Best Fine Dining in Charleston” in 2018. In 2020, Bolchoz’s love of rustic and rural Italian cuisine led him to join The Indigo Road Hospitality team as Executive Chef of Indaco. With a focus on sourcing ingredients from local and regional purveyors, Bolchoz relies on the seasons to drive menu offerings, which include wood-fired pizzas, hand-crafted pasta, cured meats, and more.

Photo courtesy of Neighborhood Dining Group

INGREDIENTS 1 lb green tomatoes, chopped 1/3 lb sugar 2 tbsp mustard seed 1 ½ tbsp fennel seed ½ tbsp chili flake 1 tbsp salt 1 tbsp dijon mustard ¼ cup champagne vinegar

EXECUTIVE CHEF BEN NORTON of Husk Nashville, Music City’s outpost of Neighborhood Dining Group’s famed restaurant known for celebrating the bounty of the area with local Southern fare. Having trained under James Beard Award-winning chefs Linton Hopkins and Sean Brock, Norton brings a fresh approach to fine-dining and the restaurant’s everchanging menu. He works closely with local farmers and purveyors to source the season’s freshest ingredients in addition to utilizing the bountiful on-site garden.

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SOUTHERN COMFORTS

Q&A C H R I S T Y

B U S H :

FA M I L I A R

30 Years of Photographs. Rock ‘n’ Roll, Fashion and Coming of Age in the South Written by Liesel Schmidt / Photography courtesy Christy Bush For Athens, Georgia, native Christy Bush, there was nothing more inspiring

perfections. I started carrying a camera with me in high school to photograph

to her than the 1990s punk rock music scene that she saw during weekends

the punk kids in downtown Atlanta.

in Atlanta. A budding photographer, she was never without a camera, taking

Q : When did you get your first camera, and what kind was it?

photos that lit a fire in her to pursue photography as a career. “I wanted to

A : My first camera was a yellow Minolta underwater camera that my parents

make sure that I would never forget,” she says of the photos that came of

gave me for Christmas. I don’t know why they chose an underwater camera,

those music-filled weekends.

but it ended up being fun in the pool! Q : When did you know photography was what

Aware that she had no real background in the arts, Bush nevertheless followed her passion to a

you wanted to dedicate your life to?

degree in Fine Arts from UGA. After college, Bush

A : Around my junior year of college, I realized

moved to New York and broke into commercial

that photography was what I really wanted to do

photography—some of which included fashion

with my life. I just wasn’t exactly sure what that

shoots for brands like J. Crew, Roxy, and Nord-

reality looked like yet.

strom. Over the next 15 years during her time

Q : What was the first photograph that you took

in New York, she also worked with other major

that made you realize, “I want to do this” ?

photographers like Richard Pandiscio, honing

A : There are so many moments that cemented

her craft to become a more skilled photographer

that desire, but probably after I got to NYC and

whose work showed not only her incredible talent,

did my first “Ones to Watch” page for Interview

but also a natural eye for the perfect shot.

Magazine. Having a photo published definitely

After more than a decade away from her home-

made photography as a career seem attainable.

town, Bush returned to Athens to continue pur-

Q : What was the first photograph that you

suing photography. And while her work now has

sold?

a broader focus than fashion, Bush has clearly

A : “Corn Dogs and Coffee” to Michael Stipe

found her place in Athens, creating works that

for $50! It was a black and white of a couple

display a love for music, art, nature, and life be-

at the Albany County Fair in Georgia. She was

hind the scenes.

short with a beehive and a corn dog in her hand.

Collecting her works in what could almost be called an anthology, Bush

He was tall and skinny with a Styrofoam coffee cup in one hand and his arm

has released Christy Bush: Familiar - 30 Years of Photographs. Rock ‘n’ Roll,

slung around her shoulder.

Fashion and Coming of Age in the South. Complete with a foreword from

Q : Do you have photographs that have constantly been favorites?

R.E.M.’s Michael Stipe, the book is a breathtaking array of familiar faces in

A : I love Corrine Day’s early pictures of Kate Moss. And anything and every-

often unfamiliar context, coming alive on the page. Familiar is available online

thing by William Eggelston. Jack Pierson’s Polaroids are everything to me. It’s

at bsgeneralstore.com

hard to pick just one...

Q : What first peaked your interest in photography?

Q : Do you prefer taking posed or are candid shots where it’s at for you?

A : I loved going through old family photos and enjoying the nostalgia and im-

A : I love taking both.

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Q : How have you come to photograph such well-known people? A : Wild luck to be honest. Wild luck and a lot of trust. Q : I would imagine you’e traveled a lot. Where have you traveled in your photography career? A : LA, Miami, New Orleans, Mexico, Japan, Denmark, France, India, Jamaica, St, Lucia, Bermuda, The Bahamas, Hawaii, England, Spain... All over. Q : I’m sure all of your photo shoots are unique, but what would you consider the most interesting photo shoot you’ve ever had? A : There was a fashion shoot with the model, May Andersen, for Cosmopolitan in Las Vegas that was very eventful. There were antsy tigers and a magician that made her levitate. Q : Do you have a favorite person you’ve worked with?

1

A : Definitely. Helena Christensen and Michael Stipe. Q : Do you have a preference working in black and white or color photography?

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A : Both formats are great to work with. It depends on the situation. Q : So many photographers prefer the flexibility of digital. Are you in love with digital, too, or do you miss the days of film photography? A : I miss film. I love film Q : Now that you’ve outgrown that Minolta you had as a kid, what kind of cameras do you use and do you have a dream camera? A : I use a Canon 5Ds, a Contax 645, and a Fuji Instamax. I’d love to have an 8 x 10 large format camera. Q : If you could shoot anyone, who would be your dream subject? A : My grandparents. I wish I had been good enough and evolved enough in my work to have photographed them while they were alive. As far as people that are living, I’d love to photograph Nick and Susie Cave and Warren Ellis. Q : Would that also be your dream shoot? Where would it be, and who would be there? A : It would be in Athens, Georgia, and everyone from my book would be there, my grandparents, all the punk kids from my youth, and maybe Nick Cave and Warren Ellis could pop in? It would be a big, epic shoot like the ones Bruce Weber used to do in the ’90s. Q : What are you hoping to accomplish with the release of this book? A : I am hoping it ties together 30 years of my work in a cohesive manner that makes people happy and inspired! Q : What inspires you to take photos and who has influenced you the most?

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A : My subjects and my imagination keep me inspired. There are so many photographers I could name. In the early days, it was Todd Eberle, Richard Pandiscio, and Michael Stipe. These days, it’s Bird Smith, Helena Chris-

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tensen, Heathermary Jackson, my daughter and her friends—and Michael Stipe. Also the crew at The Bitter Southerner. Q : Are there other photographers you aspire to? A :

Jack Pearson, William Eggleston, Sally Mann, Elaine Constantine,

Corinne Day, Tim Walker, Cass Bird, Helena Christensen, and Michael Stipe are my favorites. Q : What is your biggest challenge as an artist? A : Keeping my digital files organized!

1: Michael Stipe, NYC, 1999 2: Amy Winehouse, Coachella, CA, 2007 3: Tia Jackson, Athens, GA, 2018 4: Kat, Susan, and Frankie, Winterville, GA, 2018 5: Daniel Kesslet, Interpol, Dusseldorf, Germany, 2007 6: Asta, Vienna, GA, 2001

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I I UP LISTEN

reckless sophistication RICHMOND BLUES ARTIST ELIZABETH WISE REAPS THE REWARDS OF PAYING HER DUES Written by Jospeh M McSpadden / Photography by Dave Parrish

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