OLMagazine 2018-4

Page 1

O ld L i q uors L ifestyle M aga z ine | T h e Past & F uture of L uxury S pirits

Old Liquors SPECIAL EDITION 2018

Distillery 291 Colorado Springs How a Photographer Learned to Make Whiskey

| special R A R E & LU X U R Y S P I R I T S | F I N E W I N E S | G A S T R O N O M Y | A R T O F Old L I V Liquors I N G | AU C T I O NEdition S & CO2018 L L E-C4T I N G 1


2

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

3


e g a t n i v Private Stash

Bottles from a $23.5 million vintage liquor collection will soon be available in the U.S. >>> See page 32


The Past & F uture of Luxury Spirits | CONT ENT

e

Content

Playing with Fire

Distillery 291 in Colorado Springs

COGNAC 1805 A.E. DOR

12

28

134

Las Vegas loves to fan the fabulous flames of frivolity, so it really should come as no surprise that mixologists are setting off the alarms with smoky cocktails at several of the city’s hottest spots.

The most precious cognacs sleep in a secret cellar called “The Paradise”, proudly displaying their prestigious vintages and heritage. Jewels of the house of A.E.DOR, whose origin is generally prior to the famous phylloxera, that is to say, 1874.

Tahlin, the CEO of Absolut Elyx

How a Photographer Learned to Make Whiskey Distillery 291 in Colorado Springs

Diageo Triumphs at 2018 SFWSC Playing with Fire The Last Drop 1947 Cognac Hors d’Age Plantation Rum The Macallan Unveils New Distillery Bully Boy Releases Cane-Based Gin Genever’s Glorious Return to the U.S. The Best of Cocktail Barrel Aging Dijon, France Charming City in the Heart of Burgundy THE MAISON Hennessy Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey Art of the Ice Cube Delamain cognac Black Cow Vodka, Made from Milk

11 12 16 18 24 34 36 40 46 54 58 60 66 70

Heaven Hill Release 2018 Parker’s Heritage Tomatin Limited Edition Moscatel Finished Whisky The Chattanooga Whiskey Co. rewrote century-old laws Castillon was once a grand name in the world of cognac Wine Dinner in Las Vegas Bunnahabhain Unveils ‘The Sound of Islay’ Positioning Rabbit Hole Welcomes New Mixologist Tullamore D.E.W. Wins Top Award at IWSC How to Make or Break Whiskey Aging with the Barrel Madeira, Time captured in a Bottle Jack Daniel’s Release Bottled-in-Bond Coppercraft Distillery Relaunches Rye Whiskey Spirit Dad Away!” Great Manhattan Cocktail Bars,

74 78 82 90 94 98 108 116 124 128 130 136 140 144

Old Liquors Magazine is published four times a year. Printed in U.S.A. No portion of the website or of the magazine may be reproduced without written consent of the publisher. Old Liquors Inc. Publishing Division, 110 East Broward Blvd., Suite 1700 Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301 The United States of America Email the publisher - magazine@oldliquors.com - Call 954-315-3836.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

5


JAMESON BLACK BARREL IRISH WHISKEY Leave it to the most iconic Irish Whiskey brand to take a great product and add a new dimension to it. That’s what happened with Jameson Black Barrel Irish Whiskey, which is charred twice. It’s a triple distilled blend of pot still grain whiskey matured in a mixture of sherry casks and bourbon barrels before being bottled. And the pictured 50ml pack of Black Barrel is even more unique, packaged in a beautiful tear-away bag. The bag is an homage to the Black Barrel charring process that has helped make this Irish Whiskey one of the best in the Jameson portfolio.

6

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


www.jamesonwhiskey.com Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

7



Johnnie Walker Black Label

The Jane Walker Edition


10

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


D iageo Triump hs at 2018 SFWSC

Diageo Triumphs at 2018 SFWSC

Diageo brands were recognized for their quality and excellence at the 2018 San Francisco World Spirits Competition. This year, Diageo brands won a total of 72 medals, including 26 Double Gold or Gold medals. Scotch and North American Whisk(e)y brands performed particularly well, winning 42 of the 72 total medals. Diageo brands were also awarded three Best in Class distinctions, with Bulleit Barrel Strength Kentucky Straight Bourbon winning “Best Straight Bourbon”; Crown Royal 13-Year-Old Blenders’ Mash winning “Best Canadian Whisky”; and Talisker 10 Year Old Single Malt Scotch winning “Best Distillers’ Single Malt Scotch – Up to 12 Years”.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

11


Smoke on the Blvd

Playing with Fire Heat Up Your Night in Vegas with These Smoky Cocktails Las Vegas loves to fan the fabulous flames of frivolity, so it really should come as no surprise that mixologists are setting off the alarms with smoky cocktails at several of the city’s hottest spots. No, really. Bars and restaurants up and down the famous Las Vegas Strip have started offering innovative cocktail concoctions made with fire. Maybe that’s what Elvis meant when he sang about a bright-light city that “set my soul on fire” in his 1964 hit “Viva Las Vegas.” Wow, that guy really was a visionary. Whether you’re an aspiring arsonist or someone who simply loves spectacle, you’re sure to feel the burn for these eight brilliant cocktails.

12

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Playing with F ire | Smoky Cocktails

Smoke on the Blvd. Gordon Ramsay fans will be pleased to know there’s a drink as fiery as the celebrity chef himself. Made with Woodford Reserve Rye, Aperol, Amaro Averna, and sweet Vermouth, Smoke on the Blvd. is a signature cocktail at Gordon Ramsay’s newest Las Vegas restaurant, HELL’S KITCHEN (based on Ramsay’s hit reality television show by the same name). The cocktail’s name pays homage to Las Vegas Boulevard, the iconic street which houses Ramsay’s newest Las Vegas restaurant at Caesars Palace on the Las Vegas Strip. The cocktail itself is housed and served in a smoke-filled glass cabinet that’s opened tableside. This is one time your neighbors won’t complain about secondhand smoke. Up All Night Turn an ordinary day into a fireworks-filled celebration with the Up All Night inside CliQue Lounge at the Cosmopolitan Las Vegas. Made with Cruzan Rum, orgeat, lemon, ginger syrup, blackberries, strawberries, and Peychaud’s Bitters, this festive cocktail comes with its very own sparkler (and a dollop of whipped cream). A party in a glass! Located on the casino floor, the lounge is a happening hot spot all night long with tableside mixology, music, and quick bites like wings, sliders, and deep-fried Oreos. According to the menu, the Up All Night will help you burn the midnight oil, which is all well and good, as long as your night doesn’t go up in smoke!

Up All Night

Burning History Upstairs at the Cosmopolitan’s Zuma Las Vegas, things are smokin’ thanks to the Burning History, a creative cocktail that’s constructed tableside by a flame-torch-wielding mixologist. In order to create the contemporary Japanese restaurant’s cocktail, savory smoke is extracted from a Sherry cask stave and captured in a glass. It’s shaken together with Nikka Coffey Grain Whisky, Lagavulin Single Malt Scotch Whisky, ginger syrup, honey water, yuzu juice, egg white, and plum bitters, and served with an orange slice. A little note on the flame torch: Much of Zuma’s elegant design, including the main bar and the sushi bar, is crafted with gorgeous Thai wood, so in the interest of preserving this beautiful space, let’s leave the Burning History to the professionals. And if things go wrong, just remember this sage advice from your childhood: Stop, drop, and roll. Bacon-Infused “Not So” Old Fashioned The Whisky-inspired Jake & Eli restaurant at The Westin Las Vegas Hotel & Spa serves a Bacon-Infused “Not So” Old Fashioned that’s sure to ignite your night. It’s made with Maker’s Mark, candied bacon, maple syrup, and orange bitters, then finished in a cocktail smoke box with Applewood smoke. This concoction as a whole sounds amazing, but, honestly, they had us at “bacon.”

Burning History

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

13


Playing with Fire 14

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Playing with F ire | Smoky Cocktails

The 16 16 – A Handcrafted Experience atop M Resort serves some of its cocktails with herbs like fresh sage or thyme, including The 16 and the Savory Tonic (Empress gin, St-Germain, and Fever Tree elderflower tonic). The server burns the tip of the herb upon serving the cocktail, adding an understated aromatic touch to every sip. Even hotter, the view from this 16th-floor venue! M Resort is located at the southern tip of the Strip near the first freeway exit into Las Vegas from California (or the last on the way to California), offering expansive, panoramic views of the city and our blazing sunsets through floor-to-ceiling windows and a balcony. Wood & Fire The carnivorous carnival known as Bazaar Meat by José Andrés at SLS Las Vegashas a signature cocktail called Wood & Fire, made with a well-mixed combination of 2 ounces of Reposado Tequila, a quarter-ounce of Benedictine, a couple dashes of Angostura bitters, 1 bar spoon of maple syrup, and a fired cedar wood plank. The smoke is captured in an empty glass, which is then placed atop a chunk of ice to absorb the smoke’s essence. It is returned upright, filled with the liquid mixture, and garnished with two cloves and two marigold petals. In the video above, Cocktail Innovator Juan Coronado shows you how to capture that smoky flavor at home.

No Judging Park MGM’s whimsical new Juniper Cocktail Lounge is blazing new trails when it comes to mixology. Here, MGM Resorts Corporate Mixologist Craig Schoettler has crafted a twist on the Chartreuse Swizzle. This firestorm of flaming mint, fresh lime, fresh pineapple, and Green Chartreuse is called No Judging. It’s only one of a lineup of super-creative cocktails served in breathtaking handblown glasses (The Little Birdie, for instance, comes in a glass shaped like a bird!). For the No Judging, the pipelike glass overflows with a mint garnish that’s ignited tableside, right before your eyes. If the thought of this excites you, you might be a pyromaniac (or a single lady hoping to meet a handsome firefighter). Either way, that’s okay. There’s no judging here. Smoke Missing Mirrors Schoettler also gets credit for creating the Smoke Missing Mirrors served at James Beard award-winning chef Shawn McClain’s Sage inside Aria. Made in a similar fashion to the Burning History at Zuma, this concoction also requires a bartender or mixologist to capture smoke in a glass. In this case, the smoke and aroma comes from fired up Bourbon-barrel wood. Add in Pyrat XO reserve Rum, Tempus Fugit Gran Classico bitter apéritif liqueur, oloroso Sherry, and orange bitters. As if this city needed to get any hotter.

Vegas Smoky Cocktails

No Judging

Smoke Missing Mirrors

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

15


A Rarity From the Aftermath of War The Last Drop 1947 Cognac Hors d’Age Imagine the immediate aftermath of World War II, as the era of deprivations slowly eases and life gets back to normal. In the Charente region of France, the department where the town of Cognac is located, a family whose Cognacmaking history dates back to 1727 creates one of its first distillations of this Brandy variety since the end of the war. And there it lies in several barrels, for decades, awaiting discovery.

16

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Cognac Hors d’Age

And discovered it finally is, by the Last Drop Distillers, a company founded upon a desire to seek out and discover the rare and hidden gems of distilling that have been lost to time, hidden in dark and forgotten corners. Though Scotch Whiskey is their specialty, Last Drop’s 1947 Hors d’Age Cognac — limited to only 186 bottles that are offered at £3,200 each — is just the kind of rare gem that the company was founded to discover and bring to the contemporary market. James Espy, Tom Jago, and Peter Fleck founded Last Drop after long careers at the pinnacle of the liquors industry. They have been key players in the brand creation of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Chivas Regal 18-Year-Old, the Classic Malts, Malibu Rum, and Baileys Irish Cream. At the conclusion of their professional lives, they came together to create a company committed to saving and bottling the past.

When you crack the wax, draw the cork, it fills the room. A waft of old roses, but charged with a touch of citrus; its history is manifest at every step. An Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire since 2013, Espy was a founder of The Keepers of The Quaich, which promotes Scotch Whiskey globally, and brands he’s overseen include J&B Rare, Johnnie Walker, and Chivas Regal. Jago has worked in the wine and spirits trade for decades and was a member of the team that developed Baileys Irish Cream — considered one of the greatest brand introductions in the history of the industry. Among other achievements, the worldwide footprint of Malibu Rum is Fleck’s claim to industry fame, along with his crucial work in the growth of several brands in Africa.

Last Drop Founders: James Espy, Tom Jago, and Peter Fleck

A waft of old roses, but charged with a touch of citrus; its history is manifest at every step. The complexity of sensations stems from that history,” is Jago’s description of this Cognac. “Distilled in 1947 in a small, ancient copper still, burning wood or charcoal, it’s rich in the imperfections that mark the exceptional from the simply fine Cognac.” This Cognac is a rarity since very few examples of vintage distillations are left to be found. Its visual highlights include a deep bronze base with flashes of gold. Its scent is fresh and its character strong. “The aromas have the richness of summer flowers and when eventually you sip this delicate liquid you come across the same ingredients in a much more complex form,’’ states Faith in his tasting notes. “It seems ridiculous that one’s first impression of a 70-year-old Cognac is how fresh, young, and delicious it is.” The buyer of The Last Drop 1947 Hors d’Age Cognac will receive not only a wax-sealed bottle in a red-leather case with a custommade stopper but also an additional 50-milliliter miniature and a certificate of authenticity, complete with a tasting booklet.

Now backed by their ownership arrangement with New Orleansbased Sazerac, the Last Drop primarily focused on searching around Scotland for stray barrels of old Whiskeys. The business plan was to bring to the marketplace long-lost heirlooms of distilling that have the flavor and uniqueness that connoisseurs would appreciate. This led to the equally refined world of fine Cognacs, and the 1947 Hors d’Age Cognac is their second specialized Brandy brought to the market. Hotels.com: Save big NOW on all hotel bookings with Up to a $100 Cash Back Rebate with code REBATES17! Book by 12/31/17, Travel by 1/31/18. “First, the nose. When you crack the wax, draw the cork, it fills the room.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

17


P lantation R um

Plantation Rum An Exploration of the Caribbean Usually, a craft distillery will give you an intimate look into the particular region from which the Rum was grown, aged, and bottled; a liquid story reaching into the lives of the creators, farmers, and community. He dove right in, and built a network of equally passionate humans with a very strong distribution network for Maison Ferrand, and took the brand to many places it had never even come close to seeing before. One distillery, however, goes above and beyond. From a man so passionate about the craft, human connections, and exploring just how much he could do with one spirit across a region, we have Plantation. The Man Alexandre Gabriel, the entrepreneur and businessman behind Plantation Rum, was first inspired in the spirits world in 1989 by the Cognac brand Maison Ferrand. Maison Ferrand was one of the oldest Cognacs in the Cognac region but, due to a host of factors, it wasn’t selling nearly as well as he thought it could—he saw far more potential in it. Thus, he dove right in and built a network of equally passionate humans with a very strong distribution network for Maison Ferrand, and took the brand to so many places it had never even come close to seeing before. One

18

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

such place was the Caribbean, where he had taken a few of his Cognac casks to sell to some Rum producers in the region. There he got to see—and taste—firsthand the great depth and diversity of the world of Rum, and was more and more intrigued with each island he explored and each new producer’s unique methods. There he got to see—and taste—firsthand the great depth and diversity of the world of Rum, and was more and more intrigued with each island he explored and each new producer’s unique craft that he learned about


P lantation Rum

With his strong background in the Cognac aging process and mind whirring with new distillation ideas, it was a no-brainer: the new Alexandre Gabriel frontier would be Rum, and throughout the 1990s he focused on this craft. The label, Plantation (meaning “farm”), was named in recognition of both Mr. Gabriel’s childhood, the farm he lives on today, and as a reflection of the great expanse of terroirs and cultures of Rum. Then, to no one’s surprise, by 2012 Alexandre Gabriel was given the prestigious title of Master Blender in the World’s Best Rum Awards, in addition to the Golden Barrel Award and Distiller of the Year by the American Institute. Alexandre Gabriel has always been about the relationships he’s made in the industry, and the production of each batch of Plantation is no exception To this day, he is acting president and owner of Maison Ferrand, with Champagne Cognac, Citadelle Gin, and Plantation Grand Terroirs under his belt. Of course, he still spends months out of the year in the Caribbean exploring the ever-expanding and evolving Rum landscape, in addition to tracking down the best of the barrels. The Process and Pieces Alexandre Gabriel has always been about the relationships he’s made in the industry, and the production of each batch of Plantation is no exception: With multiple distillery

partners, Mr. Gabriel ensures that the most local and traditional distilling methods are carried out. The Rums are aged in old Bourbon casks, and the distilling is overseen by the local partners across islands. The Rums end up with the signature Caribbean notes of vanilla and coconut, but each bottle holds hints of their unique terroirs. Let’s take a look at some. The Varieties Unlike any other distiller, Mr. Gabriel has a comprehensive portfolio across the Caribbean, a deep dive into the Rum world you can explore just through the library of Plantation Rums alone. His terroirs, at this time, include Barbados, Guyana, Jamaica, St. Lucia, Trinidad, Panama, and Nicaragua. Barbados The home of the first sugar-cane cultivation, Barbados is the birthplace of Rum. Out of Barbados, Plantation offers a range including its 3 Stars white Rum, Grand Reserve, 5 Years, Barbados 2002, and Plantation XO 20th Anniversary. Guyana Home to 384 distilleries by the 18th century, Guyana is no newcomer to the Rum world. The local sugar is Demerara Sugar, and the use of “retorts,” a sort of still tray, is used along with the traditional pot still method to bring out the unique characteristics

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

19


P lantation R um

Alexandre Gabriel, the entrepreneur and businessman behind Plantation Rum

20

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


P lantation Rum

of Demerara. Guyana 2005 is Plantation’s signature from the region, which is deeply rich in oak, earthy notes, and features smooth vanilla. Jamaica In the 18th century, Jamaica was producing the most sugar in the entire Caribbean, and white and overproof Rums became local favorites. Now, heavier Rum styles are favored, which is achieved through the traditional pot still method as is the Guyanese style. Home to 384 distilleries by the 18th century, Guyana is no newcomer to the Rum world The Plantation Jamaica 2002 is a double-aged Rum, which is aged for a full decade in exBourbon barrels and finished for three years in the Cognac casks in a salute to the Maison Ferrand beginnings. Trinidad Trinidad is the home to “Navy Rum,” which is the blend of Trinidadian Rums and other British Crown Rums in England. The distillation here is a bit different, too, as it is done in distillation columns instead of the usual pot still. This was the result of some famous families habitating Trinidad in the 19th century, including the Sigert family’s bitters factory—that is, the family behind Angostura Bitters. A few generations after its founding, the family got involved in the local Rum industry, and this new distillation system was born. Currently, Plantation offers a Trinidad 2005,

which is distilled at Trinidad Distillery and blended by Maison Ferrand. It’s a bit on the dry and spicy side, with some chocolate notes toward the finish. Panama Unlike the other regions of the Caribbean we’ve looked at so far, Panama has a bit of a later start to the sphere. It wasn’t until 1908 that a Spanish immigrant, Don Jose Varela Blanco, settled in the country and built the first sugar-cane mill from the country’s native sugar cane. The Rum here comes from a collection of smaller distilleries, which makes a small, unique contribution from a multitude of independent sources possible all in one bottle. Nicaragua Out of Nicaragua is a dark Rum, another Demerara sugarbased treat like the Guyanese 2005. It’s slightly spicy, with subtle hints of banana and nutmeg, caramel, and smoke. St. Lucia One of Plantations Extreme offerings comes out of St. Lucia, which is a barrel-strength Rum from a very limited stock of casks. The St. Lucia Extreme is a 2005, after aging for nine years in an ex-Bourbon cask and an additional two years in Cognac casks in France. It features some staple dark Rum notes like caramel and leather, with black tea and coffee at the finish.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

21


22

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Expression of Ancient Traditions Wrestling Masks and Skulls Symbolize Mexico’s Unique Visual Culture. The story behind Padre Azul is every bit as exceptional and fascinating as the smooth taste of its Silver, Reposado and Aùejo Tequilas.

Old Liquors M A G A Z I N E


T h e Macallan | N ew D istillery

The Macallan Unveils New Distillery The Macallan has revealed its new distillery and visitor experience. Located on the stunning Easter Elchies estate, the property has been home to The Macallan since 1824. From humble beginnings, the brand has become the leading international single malt by value and enjoys top positions in some of the world’s most significant Scotch Whisky markets including the United States, Taiwan, and Japan. It is the first distillery in Speyside to be designed by an internationally acclaimed and award-winning architect, Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners, known for their groundbreaking work on projects such as the Terminal 4 Madrid Barajas Airport and International Towers in Sydney. Edrington, The Macallan’s parent company, is investing £500

24

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

million ($674M USD approx.) in the brand of which the £140 million ($255M USD approx.) distillery is the centerpiece. This program increases investment in Whisky, warehousing, and particularly in The Macallan’s signature sherry-seasoned oak casks. When the distillery and visitor experience opens its doors, guests will be able to experience The Macallan’s Six Pillars like never before. Each of the Six Pillar exhibits feature an interactive and tech-driven interaction that brings the brand’s legendary Whisky making process to life. From the sherry casks seasoned in Spain, to the curiously small stills, each point of the production is showcased for visitors to experience. Announced


The Macallan | New Distillery

in 2012, the project build began in December 2014 taking three years and six months total to complete. Elgin-based construction company Robertson has delivered the complex architectural design, working with 25 contractors to bring the vision for the new distillery and visitor experience to life. During construction, up to 400 people specializing in more than 20 different trades were employed on site. The striking piece of contemporary architecture is cut into the slope of the land, taking its cues from ancient Scottish hills and maximizing the aesthetic beauty of the building whilst minimizing the visual impact on the Speyside landscape, which has been classified as an ‘Area of Great Landscape Value’. The undulating timber roof structure is one of the most complicated timber roof structures in the world, comprising 380,000 individual components. The new stills within the working distillery were crafted by Scottish coppersmiths Forsyths, who have been making the brand’s distinctive, ‘curiously small’ stills for The Macallan since the 1950s – the new stills are an exact replica of the originals. While the new distillery will allow for production to increase, the same great quality of The Macallan will remain untouched. Ian Curle, Chief Executive, Edrington, said: “This is an exciting occasion for

Edrington and The Macallan. The unsurpassed quality of The Macallan is in high demand and we face the future confidently with this new distillery. It’s an authentic, abiding, ambitious investment that will match consumer expectations for generations to come. When the doors open in June, we expect this new Macallan enterprise to deliver significant benefits for the tourism industry, Scotch Whisky exports, and the economy.” Ken Grier, Creative Director, The Macallan, said: “As The Macallan has grown globally it has been very important that we make sure we can sustain demand for this wonderful amber liquid. We’ve taken exceptional care in making sure that the spirit that is produced in the new distillery is identical to the spirit that we produced in our previous distillery. This is the beginning of a really exciting new chapter in the evolution of this wonderful brand that is The Macallan.” Graham Stirk, Senior Partner and Lead Architect, Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners commented: “The Macallan estate truly is a special place; a place we have come to love and respect hugely. The vision was always ambitious but this enabled us to challenge our own thinking to create something so dramatic and awe-inspiring. It has been an honor to play our part in shaping the next chapter for The Macallan.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

25


Montegrappa | h eartwood

Heartwood Montegrappa, Italy’s oldest manufacturer of fine writing instruments, is proud of its heritage and has honoured all manner of Italian cultural touchstones, from grappa production to soccer to the Tricolore. With the contemporary classic, the Fortuna pen, as its base, Heartwood pays homage to that most Italian of values: a love of organic materials and the gifts of Mother Nature. The new pens explore the relationship between man and nature, a precious link that must never be undervalued. Three versions of the Heartwood pen have been created to represent the range and variety of woods that hold special appeal for the connoisseur and the aesthete. The material is recognised globally as one mastered and elevated by Italian craftspersons. Montegrappa has embodied the gorgeous brown, black or tan hues of various woods in pen caps and barrels fashioned from organic wood materials, accented by brushed bronze-coloured trims. Most popular with Italian woodworkers, and found in furnishings, in boats and even musical instruments are woods with distinctive grains and colours. One pen is fashioned of the darkest teak, walnut provides a pen with a nutmeg colouring while pear wood delivers a reddish cast. Offered as fountain pens, rollerballs and ballpoints, Fortuna Heartwood pens remind us that – even in an age of wireless communications and high-tech materials – handwriting with instruments fashioned from elements provided by nature will always embody the essence of humanity.

www.montegrappa.com

26

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


M ontegrappa | heartwood

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

27


D istillery 291 | Colorado Springs

How a Photographer Learned to Make Whiskey Distillery 291 in Colorado Springs On the day the Twin Towers fell, Michael Myers, a beauty and fashion photographer in New York City, was on the street near his home with his small children, trying desperately to shield them against the smoke that was filling the air and the screams that could be heard three blocks away. Soon after 9/11, Myers and his family escaped the city and traveled to Colorado, intending to stay with relatives for just a little while.

www.distillery291.com

28

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


D istillery 291 | Colorado Springs

They ended up falling in love with the place, so Myers shuttled back and forth to New York City for a few years, trying to keep his photography business alive, yet soon realized that he had to decide between his career or his family. He dabbled in a few other industries, trying to forge a new path, until one day he read an article in Vanity Fair about distilling Gin. “I thought, hey, there’s something I really want to do,” he says, “and I can do that and still stay in Colorado.” Myers, who grew up in Georgia, thought distilling his own spirits wouldn’t be too difficult. “People used to make Moonshine in the woods,” he laughs. “How hard can it be?” He started reading everything he could on the subject and watched hundreds of how-to videos. Once he felt ready to purchase a still, he knew he couldn’t afford to buy it new, so he used his creative talents to design one himself. He briefly wondered where he would get the copper, until he realized that he had all the copper he needed, in the copper plates he had used over the years for his photo-developing process. He sent his plans off to a welder, funding the welding services by selling some of his other photography equipment. The still was ready to go on September 9, 2011, with his first Whiskey distillation taking place two days later—on the 10th anniversary of 9/11. Myers opened Distillery 291 in Colorado Springs, Colorado, in 2011. The name was somewhat of a no-brainer, he explains: “Gallery 291 in New York City was the first photography gallery in the world, and 291 was the number of my dorm room when I was in college studying photography.” The front tasting room is what Myers calls “an educational room where we focus on educating the consumer.” The bar is a classic Old West type, open on both ends, with no stools in sight so folks can “belly up to the bar.” Myers built most everything you see, like the lights made from Whiskey-barrel hoops, the barrel-stave paneling, and the bar itself, which has beveled edges reminiscent of the decorative frames he used to handcraft to display his photos. He even designed the bottle labels; he transformed his own handwriting into a unique new

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

29



D istillery 291 | Colorado Springs

typeface. During tours of the distillery (reserve online), visitors can admire the copper still that Myers crafted from his photogravure plates. Look closely and you’ll see some of the original etched images from the plates that are visible on the side of the still, including a partial image of mountains. When you return to the tasting room, you’ll see the complete mountain scene in the framed photograph hanging behind the bar. Although he makes only Whiskeys, Myers has carved out quite a name for himself in the craft-distilling world in just a few short years. “Sam Elliott drinks my Whiskey on his TV show The Ranch,” he says proudly. Myers is also one of the featured distillers in the upcoming documentary The Whiskey Film, due out at the end of 2018 or early 2019. 291’s flagship spirit, 291 Single Barrel Colorado Rye Whiskey (101.7 proof), has won numerous national and international awards, including “World’s Best Rye” at the 2018 World Whiskies Awards; it’s aged in American white oak barrels for one year, then finished with aspen staves. Other spirits include 291 Single Barrel Colorado Bourbon Whiskey, 291 Barrel Proof Colorado Bourbon Whiskey, 291 American Whiskey, 291 Fresh (unaged) Colorado Whiskey, 291 Colorado Rye Whiskey White Dog, and 291 Bad Guy, a four-grain wheated Bourbon that was originally made as an experiment but quickly became a favorite. There’s also The Decc, a fruity and peppery citrus-clove Whiskey liqueur inspired by Colorado’s crisp weather (but delicious in the summer, too). Sip your Whiskey straight, or let the bartender mix up an inventive cocktail, like the popular Whiskarita, made with 291 Fresh Colorado Whiskey instead of Tequila but tasting surprisingly like a margarita. Although Myers feels firmly planted in the craft-Whiskey business now, he says he doesn’t mind being reminded of his photography career every time he sees his beloved copper still. But even if he didn’t have that, he knows he would still have plenty of photography memories every day: “The careful, step-by-step process of making Whiskey is very much like the process of developing photos.”

Distillery 291 1647 S. Tejon St. - Colorado Springs, CO 80905 www.distillery291.com

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

31


O LD LI Q U O R S | Private stach

liquors Bay Van der Bunt, the owner of one of the world’s greatest booze collections

Private Stash: Bottles from a $23.5 million vintage liquor collection will soon be available in the U.S.

The owner of one of the world’s greatest booze collections rarely partakes in its pleasures—in other words, he doesn’t get high on his own supply. So when Bay van der Bunt, an eccentric antiques dealer turned spirits collector, pours two different cognacs distilled in 1848 into glasses in front of me, he’s making a rare exception. “I have a glass of cognac and I’m not right for two days,” he jokes. “That’s the advantage to me. They buy to drink it. I buy to collect it.”

Van der Bunt’s unassuming countryside estate is tucked away in the sleepy outskirts of Breda, in the Netherlands. It looks like little more than a charming farmhouse and a few barns. And that’s essentially what it is, except that Old Liquors is also headquartered here. In the cellar of a former cow barn are some 10,000 bottles of liquor worth more than €20 million (about $23.5 million). The crowded storehouse is stuffed to the brim with bottles proudly coated with centuries of dust that testify to their age and authenticity. As the thirst for rare spirits has risen in recent years, Old Liquors is, for the first time, bringing parts of its collection to retail stores in the U.S. This was never part of a grand plan, but is instead the culmination of a hobby that turned into a passion, and then snowballed into a veritable treasure chest of a hooch collection. “There’s no why,” van der Bunt says about the beginnings and expansion of his private stash. “I couldn’t imagine this 20 or 30 years ago.” Van der Bunt’s company procures its stock from major auction houses, amassing thousands of bottles per year in bulk lots. In an adjoining room

Old liquors’ collection features bottles dating back to 1715

32

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


s Old liquors, one of the world’s greatest Private collections

next to his main collection are stacks of hundreds of unopened brown boxes— recent auction purchases yet to be cataloged. The company used to sell bottles privately and at auctions, but now operates exclusively as a wholesaler. Old Liquors utilizes an intensive system to authenticate andappraise bottles in order to connect to potential buyers. Most bottles sell for between $2,500 and $50,000. His oldest cognac dates to 1760, and his oldest bottle overall is a Madeira from 1715. There’s the six-liter bottle of cognac from 1795, said to have traveled with Napoleon’s army, and there are the shelves of prestigious bottles obtained from floundering fancy restaurants in need of a cash influx. There’s rum from 1780, some chartreuse here and assorted liqueurs there, and the occasional bottle of scotch. But primarily, Old Liquors has cornered the market on absurdly old cognac and Armagnac. If there was a prized vintage from any of the major cognac houses at any point in the 19th century, van der Bunt probably has it. By the end of 2017, the company hopes to establish a presence in a select number of fine liquor stores in major cities including New

York, Los Angeles, Washington, D.C., and Chicago. It’s easier said than done. The bottles aren’t in standard U.S. sizes, labels are in many cases partially or entirely missing, and there are the logistics of importation and distribution. Further, every product sold at retail is required to have a specific, approved label, and because each bottle is a unique specimen, or one of a mere handful, a new label must be created. Then there are the intertwined matters of authentication and convincing prospective buyers to make a purchase. The company builds minutely detailed histories for each bottle, who sold it to whom, when, and for how much, its distillery information and contents painstakingly authenticated in every way possible. Each bottle will then be housed in a “museumlike” plexiglass display case with its personal fact sheet included. “It’s like art: You need the provenance,” says Bart Laming, managing director of Old Liquors. “It’s not about price; it’s about uniqueness. Some of these are the last bottles in the world.”

Old liquors’ collection features bottles dating back to 1715. Most sell for between $ 2,500 and $50,000.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

33


Bully Boy Releases Cane-Based Gin Bully Boy Distillers today announces the launch of the Bully Boy Distillers Gin, a bright and exotic spirit carefully crafted to capture the essence of today’s adventurous and innovative craft Gins. With a nuanced flavor profile, the innovative new Gin will join the award-winning distillery’s extensive line of premium small–batch spirits. While most Gins are typically crafted with a neutral grain base, Bully Boy draws inspiration for its Gin from its acclaimed White Rum by using a cane base. This provides the spirit with a mild tropical and honeysuckle undertone, which is then enhanced by a collection of carefully selected herbs and botanicals, including Italian Juniper, fresh ginger, blueberry and grapefruit. To add complexity, the Gin also features flavors of coriander, cardamom, chamomile and cinnamon, which provide a unique herbal balance.

34

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


bully nboy cane-based gin

“Our Gin portfolio, which also includes the Estate Gin released in 2016, allows us to continually experiment and push the envelope when it to comes to crafting unique, compelling spirits,” said Dave Willis, co-founder and head distiller of Bully Boy Distillers. “After opening our second production facility and tasting room last year, we turned our original distillery into a Gin-specific innovation area, so we’ve had the ability to try new things, push boundaries, and ultimately figure out what works and what doesn’t. The new Gin represents the best of what we’ve discovered, and we’re proud to add it to the lineup.” Priced at $29.99 for a 750ml bottle, Bully Boy Gin is 45% alcohol by volume and joins Bully Boy’s portfolio of handcrafted spirits at retailers, restaurants and bars throughout Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New Hampshire, Maine and Connecticut in May 2018. Founded by brothers Will and Dave Willis, Bully Boy Distillers is Boston’s first craft distillery and is committed to crafting innovative and premium spirits. Utilizing a 750–gallon copper pot still, all Bully Boy products are handcrafted in small, limited-run batches, resulting in complex and unique spirits that celebrate New England’s rich history. The name Bully Boy pays homage to former U.S. president, Teddy Roosevelt. In the 1920s, the Willis family named its favorite farm workhorse after the popular Roosevelt-coined term, “bully,” meaning superb or wonderful. Today the endearing spirit of Roosevelt lives on in Bully Boy Distillers. According to the brand: “Innovation is the lifeblood of Bully Boy. Constantly tinkering, experimenting, and striving to both make things better and do things differently. Check this space regularly for our latest creations and explorations.” “Dave serves as Head Distiller and co-founder of Bully Boy Distillery. As kids growing up on a working farm, Dave and his brother Will made cider from apples that grew on the property. It wasn’t long before an appreciation for cider lead to an appreciation for hard cider. That lead to experimentation with apple brandy, which they crafted using a small one-gallon still. Dave proved particularly adept at the science of fermentation, distillation, and aging, a skill set he further honed by distilling alongside experienced distillers in Missouri and Chicago. Dave has overseen the research, development, and launch of all six of their award-winning spirits.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

35


Genever’s Glorious Return to the U.S. There was a time when Genever was the best-selling imported spirit in the United States. In modern times though, high-quality and authentic Genever had all but disappeared from our bars and liquor stores. Thankfully, that’s been changing within the past few years, with a growing lineup of Genevers returning to the scene at long last. What Happened to Genever? “Between Prohibition, World War I, and World War II, the Dutch and Belgians really got the short end of things,” explains Philip Duff, founder and “chief Genever officer” of Old Duff Genever. “When they resumed business as usual after WWII, they had lost a march to Gin, and to easy-drinking light-flavored blended Scotches.” Soon, cost-cutting measures brought quality down, yet were successful enough to become the new norm. “In Holland, they invented a Genever with so little malt wine it was effectively Vodka—so-called ‘jonge,’ new-style Genever—and that made them so

36

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Genever’s Glorious R eturn to the U.S.

much money domestically they never tried to rebuild Genever to its previous heights,” Duff says. In the production of Genever, a proportion of neutral spirit may be added in depending on its classification. Jonge Genever must contain no more than 15% malt wine, with the neutral spirit accounting for the lion’s share of what’s in the bottle. As Duff says, it’s more effectively a botanical Vodka than a traditional Genever. Oude Genever must contain a minimum of 15% malt wine, while korenwijn, or grain wine, contains a minimum of 51% malt wine. With the steep decline in popularity and quality, it’s hard to envision the golden era of Genever. During the late 1800s, Schiedam, a city just outside of Rotterdam in the Netherlands, was bursting at the seams with nearly 400 distilleries, powered by several dozen towering windmills. Schiedam remains the heartland of Genever today, replete with the Genever Museum or Nationaal Jenevermuseum. There are scant few operational distilleries remaining, though, with several well-known and notable exceptions, such as Nolet Distillery and De Kuyper Royal Distillers. Genever Strikes Back Another of Schiedam’s remaining distilleries is Herman Jansen, which was founded in 1777. They produce a wide range of Genevers, and my personal moment of Genever awakening came during a distillery visit last year, with a tasting of their 10-year-old and 15-year-old Notaris Genevers alongside select vintages from the ’80s and ’90s. Herman Jansen also produces a staggering assortment of all types of spirits, and now they also handle the production for Old Duff.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

37


“It’s truly a blessing to be able to work with Mr. Jansen himself, production manager Robert Bot, and distiller Ad van der Lee,” Duff says. “The Jansen family still owns 100% of the company and they have been distilling Genever, without any breaks, since 1777. They make millions of cases of every kind of alcohol every year, but their heart is with real Dutch Genever, 100% malt wine with the Seal of Schiedam, made in the tiny, traditional De Tweeling distillery, and I know they are very proud of everything we’re achieving with Old Duff.” Herman Jansen makes its malt wine from equal parts corn, malted barley, and rye, while original recipes once called for two-thirds barley and one-third rye with no corn. They triple distill the spirit and divide it into four batches: one component is re-distilled with juniper berries, one is re-distilled with fruit and herbs in addition to juniper berries, one is kept as is, and the final piece is column distilled to a higher proof. These four parcels are then blended together to create the final spirit, which may be bottled or barrel-aged. As for Old Duff, it’s a labor of love for Duff, who lived in Holland for 17 years. It launched last summer, and although it’s thus far limited to the New York market, it’s been piling up high ratings and awards and has been quickly adopted, particularly in the craft cocktail scene. “It’s been honestly absolutely spectacular, and I am grateful beyond words for how kind everyone has been,” Duff says of the reaction he’s seen. “In just nine months we’ve been listed in every single one of the World’s 50 Best Bars in New York, where it’s exclusively available…and I’m also so impressed with how savvy consumers have adopted it—I did a tasting at Astor Wine & Spirits in New York and sold three cases in three hours, which is phenomenal!” Interestingly, Duff also had his hands in the creation of Bols Genever, which now has several expressions available in the U.S. The lineup includes Bols Genever 1820, Bols Genever Barrel Aged, and Bols 100% Malt Spirit, which debuted in the U.S. in early 2017.

38

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Genever’s Glorious R eturn to the U.S.

Genever must be made in either Holland, Belgium, or one of several regions in Germany and France. However, there are also Genever-style products being made in the U.S. As a case in point, consider the Genevieve Gin from Hotaling & Co., which was actually first introduced over a decade ago. A newer riff is their Barrel-Finished Genevieve Gin, matured for 33 months in casks which held the distillery’s Old Potrero Straight Rye, and is made from an equal parts mash bill of barley, wheat, and rye. If you haven’t dabbled with Genever yet, then Duff urges you to consider its proud history, and its ties to two of our most beloved spirits, Whisky, and Gin. “It’s Gin’s great-great-great grandparent but it’s also Whisky’s great-great-great-great-great-great grandparent,” he says. “So try it in a Martinez or a Collins and you’ll never look back!” The far-reaching importance and influence stretches even further. Dutch distillers first distilled wine from the Cognac region of France into Brandy and then convinced the producers of the region to do so themselves. In fact, anyone who’s been to or seen a Cognac distillery will do a double take when they look inside a historical Genever distillery, such as Herman Jansen, and see a strikingly similar stillhouse design. Duff has one final, important caveat to his suggestion of trying Genever in a Martinez or Collins, though. “By law, a Collins made with Old Duff must be referred to as a Phil Collins,” Duff says. If the chief Genever officer decrees it, then it must be so.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

39


40

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


B arrel Aging | 9 Tips for Best Practice

The Best of Cocktail Barrel Aging 9 Tips for Best Practice Old and tasty brendy in the distillery basement While it may seem to be almost omnipresent in the spirits world these days, barrel aging can, to say the least, be complicated. And once you’re playing with not just one spirit but an unbound combination of them (some of which have already been barrelaged at least once before), you’re in an especially gray territory. Anything goes, really. That said, it can also produce phenomenally rewarding results—there’s a reason the hippest bar on your block has micro-barrels with cocktails on constant rotation, and why this is the brainchild of one of the industry’s best bartenders, Jeffrey Morgenthaler, of Clyde Commons in Portland, Oregon. So, where to start? For a jumping-off point, we have ten of the larger considerations below to get you started on your barrel-aged cocktail journey:

1. First and foremost, don’t expect a miracle. While you may achieve a more mellow, smooth product out of some rough alcoholic edges, as the barrel aging is meant to do, don’t expect to make X out of nothing; that is, go in with the intent of making a great cocktail impeccable, not a bad bunch of ingredients into something smooth and mellow. It’s just not going to work that way. 2. Keep the spirits high proof. As the barrel is meant to do, it’ll cool the spirits down and harmoniously blend flavors. That said, it’s best to use high-quality, high-proof spirits so as not to lose the true essence and flavor of the cocktail. Ironically named, “barrel-strength” spirits are a good bet. 3. Don’t add bitters to the barrel. As the rest of the flavors mellow, bitter will quickly run the show, and you’ll be left with what tastes like oaked bitters. If bitters are a necessary part of the finished cocktail, there’s no problem with adding them after the aging of the rest of the ingredients. 4. Don’t fear the oxidation. First, new barrels will often need to be treated to avoid leakage. After an initial cleaning wash, go ahead and fill the barrel one more time; if there are any leaks, you’ll see the traces of water fairly quickly. Simply apply some beeswax or barrel wax to the outside of the barrel where the water is coming through, and this should be all that’s needed to keep your cocktail contained.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

41


B arrel Aging | 9 Tips for Best Practice

But no matter how well or what you do to seal your barrel, you’ll inevitably lose about 10% of your batch to evaporation. In the industry, this has been aptly named the “angel’s share.” Luckily, the process your cocktail is going through, its rounding and softing, helps to combat the oxidation that comes with this extra room for air. 5. Sweeten carefully. Given that the barrel imparts softer, rounder flavors and the cocktail will undergo some concentration changes due to evaporation, you’ll want to do a bit of flavor accounting to make sure the flavors won’t become unbalanced over time. For the simplest solution, it’s best to keep any sweetness involved up to any liquors alone, as honey would likely sink and simply sit on the bottom of the barrel, and simple syrup could lead to minor fermentation. Anything perishable, for that matter, should not be added to the mix. What cocktails does that leave to make? Among many others (you may be surprised!), some good starters are the great classics: Manhattans, Negronis, and Boulevardiers. A good general rule is three to five ingredients total. 6. Test for purpose. After a week or two, it’s pretty easy to forget what the cocktail tasted like in the first place. How will you know where you’ve gone, and where you’re going? It’s important to set aside some of your original, unaged cocktail so you can test against your formula as you go. 7. Know how long to go. As with anything else, there certainly exists too much of a good thing in the cocktail-aging world. Beyond mellow, a barrel-aged cocktail can become muted. While intermittent tasting is instrumental, a general aging timeline will depend on how much the barrel

42

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


B arrel Aging | 9 Tips for Best Practice

has been used before. The first batch in an unused barrel could be at its prime in as little as 15 days. A second batch will usually sit for at least 70 days, and you’ll be looking at up to a year for the third batch out of an aging barrel. If you keep the time consistent batch after batch—a common mistake—you’ll end up with the same cocktail that’s simply oxidized. Not ideal. 8. Be mindful of cross-contamination. Barrels may be able to age multiple batches of cocktails, but you’ll want to be very intentional with how that’s done. After just one batch of aging, the cocktail will inevitably seep into the barrel fibers and will lend those flavors back to the new cocktails placed in that barrel. As there’s no great way to completely eliminate these flavors from a barrel, it’s best to dedicate a barrel to one cocktail. The good news is that barrels for homeaging can be as small as one to two liters, so you’ll have plenty of room for a plethora. (Tip: You can also find pre-charred barrels if you’d like to play around with the heavy, smoky wood flavors.) Speaking of contamination, another thing to be mindful of is how the barrel is being stored as well. While it may be something that looks good to show off on a shelf, it’s best to practice like the pros—light and heat fluctuations won’t do your concoction any favors, and it’s best to keep the cocktail barrels where they’re safe and secure. 9. It is a constant process. If you won’t be keeping the cocktails flowing continuously, make sure to keep the barrel filled with water in between batches to keep it from drying out. Water will keep from implicating any more flavors, but make sure you’re still monitoring and changing it out once in a while to prevent molding. As an added benefit, after about two days the water in the barrel will start to attain some of the flavors the barrel has absorbed, which will give you a sense of what and how strong the flavors are that the barrel will impart into the next cocktail.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

43


Sazerac Resume Whisky Distilling in Montreal History was made earlier this year when Canadian Whisky was distilled in downtown Montreal for the first time in decades at the Sazerac Company’s Old Montreal Distillery. For more than a year, Sazerac has been putting the elements in place, installing grain mills and a 4,000-gallon mash cooker, converting existing equipment and hooking up fermenters. Recently a key piece, a brand new still, was added to the Distillery located in the downtown Montreal area, adjacent to the Port and Old Montreal.

44

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Saz erac | Old M ontreal Distillery

The still is 18 inches in diameter and 37 feet tall and was made at Vendome in Louisville, Ky. The Old Montreal Distillery has long had the capacity to distill spirits, including Genever gin, but had always wanted to bring back Whisky distillation to Montreal. “With the long-standing connection this city has had with distilling premium Canadian Whisky, through the headquarters of the legendary Seagram Company and its patriarch Sam Bronfman, it was always a goal of ours to bring Whisky distilling back to Montreal,” said Mark Brown, Sazerac Company president and chief executive officer. Not only does the new still mean Canadian Whisky will be made here, it will also allow experiments with new Whiskies, something Sazerac is itching to do. “With over 500,000 Canadian Whisky barrels in inventory, we’re anxious to get started experimenting here in Montreal similar to what we do at our other distilleries,” said Drew Mayville, Sazerac’s master blender. The Montreal project holds a special place in Mayville’s heart, a native Canadian now living in Kentucky, who worked for Seagram’s for 22 years, serving as the fourth and last Master Blender under the Seagram dynasty. Plans are still under wraps for now as to which Canadian Whisky or Whiskies will be made at the Old Montreal Distillery, and a formal christening of the still will be held later this

year. It is likely tours will be added later this year as well. The Old Montreal Distillery dates back to 1929. It currently employs more than 100 people. The addition of the new distilling operation adds a few more full-time employees. Caribou Crossing, the world’s first single barrel Canadian Whisky, is bottled at the Old Montreal Distillery, along with many other longtime favorites. Sazerac is one of America’s oldest family owned, privately held distillers with operations in the United States in Louisiana, Kentucky, Virginia, Tennessee, Maine, New Hampshire, South Carolina, Maryland, California, and global operations in the United Kingdom, Ireland, France, India, Australia and Canada. According to Sazerac: “In 1869, Thomas H. Handy purchased the Sazerac Coffeehouse and began to acquire and market brands of liquor. He bought out the rights to Peychaud’s Bitters in 1873. In the 1890s his company began to bottle and market the Sazerac cocktail, now made with rye Whiskey instead of brandy. In addition, the company operated the Sazerac Bar on Royal Street. Later, Handy’s former secretary, C. J. O’Reilly, chartered the Sazerac Company. Ever since (except for a stint as a delicatessen and grocery vendor during Prohibition), the Sazerac Company has distilled an ever-increasing line of fine spirits.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

45


Dijon, France Charming City in the Heart of Burgundy What to do, where to eat and drink in Burgundy’s historic capital city DIJON, FRANCE – The name of this small, French city in the northern part of Burgundy often means one thing to many people - mustard. And while it is true you can find many mouthwatering mustards made in Dijon, there are many other reasons to visit this charming city that serves as the capital of Burgundy, one of the world’s greatest wine-growing regions.

46

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Dijon | France

From its charming, winding cobblestone streets to its historic architecture, hearty Burgundian meals, and outstanding covered food market, Dijon stands out for many reasons. It’s easy to see why the city’s historic center was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2015. And due to its location, Dijon can also serve as an ideal base for exploring the world-class vineyards located just south of the city. Brief History Dijon has a long, rich history dating back to the Neolithic period more than 12,000 years ago. Later, Romans settled in this area. But the era Dijon’s best known for began in the 11th century, when the Dukes of Burgundy ruled their fiefdom from Dijon, which served as the capital of the Duchy of Burgundy until the 15th century. Soon after, Switzerland’s Imperial Army invaded Dijon. (There’s something you don’t read much about anymore—invading Swiss armies.) Dijon repelled the Swiss invaders but it wouldn’t be the last time different countries tried to occupy Dijon over the centuries. Nowadays, it’s hard to imagine such a violent past in such a tranquil, charming city. When to Go Like all of Burgundy, there’s no bad time of year to go to Dijon. Certain times of year simply offer different attractions. Summer’s probably the most popular time to visit when tourists

descend upon this charming city and stroll through its narrow, winding streets. Temperatures rarely climb above the mid-70s (20° C) in July and August and rarely dip below the mid-50s (10° C) at night. However, there can be some days when the weather can get quite muggy. For many people, the best time to visit Dijon is the fall, when the days become slightly cooler and the night’s crisper. This time of year also attracts many wine lovers since it’s harvest time in the nearby fields south of the city. But don’t dismiss visiting Burgundy in the spring or winter. Both times of year can be rainy, and particularly cold in December and January. High temperatures then often only reach the low 40s (5° C). But like its bigger sibling, Paris, there’s something magical about walking in the rain through Dijon’s historic city center. How to Get Here Several major highways lead to Dijon, including the A6 from Paris. But why drive when you can take the train? From Paris’ Gare De Lyon station, high-speed trains can reach Dijon in roughly 1 hour and 30 minutes. There’s also high-speed train service to Dijon from Lausanne, Switzerland (2 hours), Geneva, Switzerland (2 hours, 40 minutes), and many other cities. And if you ever dreamed of taking the overnight train from Paris to Venice (which used to be part of the famed Orient Express route), a daily overnight train stops in Dijon

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

47


D ijon | F rance

en route. (Unfortunately, the luxury version of the Orient Express, known as the Venice Simplon-Orient Express, doesn’t stop in Dijon.) There’s also regular regional train service in Dijon to many locations throughout Burgundy, including several trains daily to Beaune and many other smaller villages in Burgundy. You can also easily rent a car in Dijon at the train station if you want to explore some of the smaller villages near the city. One of the most popular—and charming— roads people take in Burgundy starts in Dijon. Known as the Route des Grands Crus, this winding, two-lane road will take you through some of the most iconic wine villages in Côte de Nuits, the northern half of the Côte d’Or. Such villages include Chambolle-Musigny, Clos de Vougeot, and Romanée-Conti. Less than an hour later (depending on how many stops you make), you’ll reach Beaune, another charming, small city in Burgundy. To the south of Beaune, you can take the Route des Grands Crus and visit many of villages in Côte de Beaune, the southern half of the Côte d’Or. Famous wine villages in Côte de Beaune include Meursault and Puligny-Montrachet. What to Do The star attraction of Dijon is the city itself. Simply wandering through its narrow, winding streets—many of which have been converted into pedestrian-only walkways—and admiring its older buildings can provide hours of enjoyment. Keep an eye out for many of Dijon’s well-preserved medieval buildings, including the 15th-century timbered house known as Maison Des Trois Visage, the

48

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

House With Three Faces. (54, 56 Rue de la Liberté). Another must-see attraction in Dijon is the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy (1 Place de la Libération). Dating back to the 14th century, the former medieval palace now houses Dijon’s City Hall and Musée des Beaux-Arts de Dijon, an outstanding museum featuring an impressive array of paintings, tapestries, and other artworks from the Middle Ages and Renaissance. Also, make sure to see Dijon’s Church of Notre Dame (2 Place Notre Dame). A masterpiece of Gothic architecture built in the 13th century, this stunning church near the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy remains in remarkable shape more than 800 years later. Where to Stay The best place to stay and fully appreciate the oldworld charm of Dijon is Grand Hotel La Cloche Dijon (14 Place Darcy). Located in the historic city center near the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy, this Sofitel-owned hotel features 83 luxurious rooms and 5 suites. If you’re searching a hotel with a Michelin-starred restaurant, look no further than Hostellerie Du Chapeau Rouge (5 Rue Michelet). Once a private house, this intimate 28-room, and 2-suite hotel has modern yet comfortable furnishings, plus a spa, sauna, and hammam to unwind in after a meal in the hotel’s 2-Michelin-starred restaurant. Where to Shop You’ll find a wide array of stores soon after you walk out of the city’s train station, particularly along Place Darcy and various pedestrian side streets in Dijon’s historic city center. In


particular, you can find several stores devoted to Dijon’s most famous product—mustard. Two of the best places to buy mustard in Dijon are La Boutique Maille (32 Rue de la Liberté) and La Moutarderie Edmond Fallot (16 Rue de la Chouette). Looking for somewhere to buy wine? Not surprisingly, there are many stores to choose from in the capital of Burgundy. Along with the always-popular Nicolasstores found throughout France, Dijon’s home to many great independent wine stores, including Dr Wine Shop (5 Place Notre Dame), Bacchus (16 Rue Bannelier), and La Route Des Vins (1 Rue Musette), where you can also taste wines for sale. But hands down the most memorable shopping experience in Dijon can be found at Les Halles Market (Rue Claude Ramey). Designed by Dijon native Gustave Eiffel, who famously designed Paris’ Eiffel Tower, Les Halles Market’s soaring metal and glass structure is an attraction itself. You don’t even need to buy anything to appreciate its beauty. But if you are in search of outstanding meats, cheeses, vegetables, oysters, and other delicious items, you’ll be in heaven in this indoor market open year round. There’s also a wine bar in the market in case you get thirsty after wandering through all the food stalls. Open Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Where to Eat You’ll have no trouble finding great restaurants in this region famous for escargot, Boeuf Bourguignon, and other hearty Burgundian specialties. Some of Dijon’s best restaurants include:

William Frachot (5 Rue Michelet) – Hostellerie Du Chapeau Rouge’s 2-Michelin-star restaurant has a contemporary look and feel that perfectly complements their modern twists on classic French foods. Make sure to try one of their “Emotion” tasting menus. Chez Leon (20 Rue des Godrans) – A cozy, intimate restaurant, Chez Leon perfectly prepares outstanding, hearty French classics, including escargot and Boeuf Bourguignon. Loiseau des Ducs (3 Rue Vauban) – Located inside a 16th-century stone building, this Michelinstarred restaurant serves a creative blend of classic French foods, including expertly prepared duck. Where to Drink As you would expect in Burgundy, there are many outstanding places to drink in Dijon. Many restaurants like the ones listed above have excellent wine lists. You can also find a wide selection of wines and great cocktails at Dr Wine (5 Rue Musette), L’Assommoir Tome II (48 Rue Monge), and Bruno (80 Rue Jean Jacques Rousseau). So discover why the Dukes of Burgundy decided to settle in Dijon and spend a few days in one of the most charming French cities sure to satisfy all your appetites.

Dijon, France Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

49


50

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


GlenA llac hie aged single malts

The GlenAllachie Distillery to Release First Core Range Independent, boutique Scotch Whisky distillery, The GlenAllachie has unveiled its first core range of aged single malts, which have been specially selected by Master Distiller and industry icon Billy Walker.

The release from the Speyside distillery all feature age statements ranging from 10-year-old cask strength, the flagship 12-yearold alongside 18 and 25-year-old bottlings. This is the first core range release from the new company – Billy Walker acquired The GlenAllachie Distillery, with business partners Trisha Savage and Graham Stevenson, from Pernod Ricard in October 2017 in a multimillion-pound deal. Billy Walker GlenAllachie Managing Director and Master Distiller explained: “The first release of our GlenAllachie core range has been a culmination of months of hard work and a passion to turn GlenAllachie into a very popular and much sought after single malt Whisky. It is an honor to be its custodian and to develop this range of single malts.” “The range of casks we have warehoused is

tremendous with nearly 50,000 maturing at our distillery, some of which date back to the 1970’s. Our aim is to nurture this tremendous spirit and for these single malts to be admired both home and abroad.” Each release is natural colour, non-chill-filtered and bottled at a minimum of 46% ABV: The 10-year-old expression reflects Walker’s desire to showcase a taste of The GlenAllachie Distillery bottled straight from the cask at natural strength. The 57.1% Whisky was matured in American oak, Pedro Ximinez, Oloroso and virgin oak casks, and is described as tasting of honey, vanilla, toffee, marmalade with a layer of rose hip and Caribbean spices.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

51


G len A llach ie aged single malts

The 12-year-old single malt is described by Walker as “the heart of our range.” Matured in Pedro Ximinez, Oloroso and virgin oak casks, the Whisky imparts sweet Butterscotch notes on the nose, and a taste of honey, marzipan and bananas, plus further lashings of Butterscotch. The Glenallachie 18-year-old exemplifies the signature style of GlenAllachie – a combination of rich and robust spirit with heather and butterscotch notes, along with subtle hints of dark chocolate. The pinnacle of the range, the 25-year-old, is a beautiful beaten copper colour following its quarter of a century maturing in Pedro Ximinez, Oloroso and American oak casks. This regally rich single malt Whisky delivers lashings of sultanas, pineapples and dark chocolate, followed by layers of Christmas cake, marmalade and sweet spices. The GlenAllachie now has distribution in more than 28 countries

52

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

including strategic markets – the USA, Germany, Taiwan, China and France. In the UK The GlenAllachie is available from specialist retailers. All the bottles bear the words ‘From the valley of the rocks’, translating from the original Gaelic name “Gleann Aileachaidh.” The GlenAllachie Distillery was designed by William DelmeEvans – the architect behind Jura, Macduff and Tullibardine – and was built in 1968 by Mackinlay McPherson, the distilling arm of brewers Scottish & Newcastle. It sits within a 20-acre estate and uses water sourced from Hangman’s Craig and Black Banks on the slopes of Ben Rinnes. It has four stills but unusually it also has two separate spirit safes, one for each set of stills. Walker has converted existing buildings on site to dunnage warehousing bringing total to 16 warehouses holding almost 50,000 casks of GlenAllachie. An additional 2 dunnage warehouses will also be built at the distillery along with a bottling line.


Master Distiller and industry icon Billy Walker

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

53


THE MAISON

Hennessy

The Hennessy cognac distillery was founded by Irishman Richard Hennessy in 1765. During the 1970s, Kilian Hennessy, a fifth generation direct descendant of Hennessy, became the CEO of Hennessy, succeeding his first cousin MauriceRichard. Kilian Hennessy spearheaded the company’s 1971 merger with Moët et Chandon, which created Moët Hennessy. The full name is ‘Jas. Hennessy & Co.’, Jas being short for James. But it was not James who started dealing in cognac, it was his father Richard Hennessy, who was born in 1724 on the Ballymacmoy estate in Ireland. As a young man Richard joined the Irish brigade of the French army of Louis XV. He left the army after five years (not ten as is stated elsewhere) in 1753 and started working in France, first in Ostende and Dunkerque, later on in Tonnay-Charente where he discovered how profitable the brandy business could be for an enterprising young gogetter. In 1765 he moved to Cognac and started his own firm. That same year his son James was born – called Jacques in France - who was to give his name to the firm in 1813 and who by many is recognized as the true founder of the company. But before we come to speak about James, first back to Richard. He did not start on his own, but together with two fellow-landsmen, Connelly and Arthur. During his life he also partnered with other people, like John (Jack) Saule, George Boyd and Sam Turner. His son James joined the company already on a young age. So the first decades of its existence the company

54

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Hennessy cognac

By far the greatest of ‘the big four’ is Hennessy, without contest. And being established in 1765, Hennessy is also one of the oldest cognac houses. knew several names: Hennessy, Connelly & Arthur, HennessyConnelly & Cie., Hennessy et Saule, Richard Hennessy et Fils, Hennessy & Turner. This can be seen as testimonial to the difficult period they went through with several highs and lows during the first half century. After Richards death in 1800, James takes over – still in partnership with Sam Turner - and already in 1801 bankruptcy is luring. They got saved by a loan from Martell who was James’s father-in-law, James being married to Marthe Martell in 1795. In 1813 Hennessy and Turner end their partnership and only now Hennessy gets its name whereby it is still known today: Jas. Hennessy & Co. In fact, James is regarded the true founder of the present company. He developed the company considerably and during the first half of the 19th century they gathered an enormous fortune. But to be fair to Richard, the original founder, he too has some meaningful achievements to his name. In 1784 he got a commission from the royal court

of Louis XVI and in 1794 he was the first cognac producer to ship to America. Like other well-known cognac families the Hennessy’s also played their role in public life, providing mayors and deputies to Cognac, but also ambassadors, ministers and senators. After James, another James (a.k.a. Jacques) followed. And after him August, and Maurice. All of them were of importance to the firm. When in the middle of the 19th century the first bottle factories made their entrance, Hennessy was among the first to see the enormous potential. At first for guaranteeing the authenticity of the cognacs, but very soon for increasing the brand recognition. In 1864 they were the first cognac house to registrate their brand name and logo, which had become possible with new legislation in 1856 and 1857. The arm, armed with an axe, is still their emblem today and is used on nearly every bottle. August and Maurice implemented the star-system in 1865 as age-indicators and Maurice started the use of the acronym XO to mean ‘eXtra Old’ in 1870. At the end of the 19th century they were the absolute

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

55



Hennessy cognac

By far the greatest of ‘the big four’ is Hennessy, without contest. And being established in 1765, Hennessy is also one of the oldest cognac houses. number one in sales and in riches and have stayed number one without interruptions. One very important family clan that must be mentioned here has had an enormous impact on the quality of the Hennessy brand: Fillioux. Already at the end of the 18th century Jean Fillioux joined the company and after him seven Fillioux descendants have followed him. They are all famous for their ‘nose’. Even today a Fillioux scion is still cellar master at Hennessy, though his name is Renaud de Gironde, a nephew of Yann Fillioux. He is of the eight generation. Every morning around eleven o’clock he and seven other members of the tasting committee gather to evaluate samples of eauxde-vie. Two of them are trainees that attend these sessions for 10 years before they have any say in the tastings, but after this period they have a life-long career ahead of them. In the nineteen sixties a real take-over and merger boom took place. Many companies were in dire need for more capital.

Monnet, Courvoisier, Bisquit, Gautier, Hine and many others were bought over or merged with other parties. And in 1971 Hennessy too found a partner in Moët-Chandon. Sixteen years later Hennssy-Moët-Chandon merged again, now with Louis Vuitton to become LVMH, world’s greatest conglomerate for luxury goods. For a long time the Hennessy’s have stayed in charge after these mergers, but since 2004 the new CEO is Bernard Peillon, who started working for LVMH in 1994. Hennessy has produced many, many different bottles and all of them are collectors items, even the newest ones. From the ordinary three star and VS bottles at the low end of the spectrum to the Paradis and Richard Hennessy at the upper end. Also very popular are the limited editions, specially the VS, VSOP and XO limited editions that were designed in collaboration with several different famous designers and artists.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

57


Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey Relaunches Cookout Tour Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey “Neighborhood Flavor” is set for a return with the launch of a docuseries and community cookout tour paying tribute to the distinct flavors, stories and cultures of neighborhoods from across the U.S. This year, Neighborhood Flavor teams up with American soccer player turned photographer, Ethan White to host a docuseries showcasing the unique stories and experiences of locals in their hometowns. The series explores the diversity and culture of cities such as: New York, Los Angeles, Detroit, Atlanta, Houston, and Jack’s hometown, Lynchburg, Tennessee.

58

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


J ack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey

“Neighborhood Flavor is about celebrating a neighborhood’s uniqueness and the inspiration behind those who call it home,” says Casey Nelson, Brand Director, Jack Daniel’s Flavors. “Mr. Jack Daniel himself taught us that nothing brings a community together quite like good food, drinks and music.” As part of the summer-long program, Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey will also host a series of community cookouts celebrating the true spirit of the featured neighborhoods. Each community cookout will feature live music from local bands, a host of games, and the finest local flavors including Jack Honey, neighborhood-inspired cocktails created by hometown bartenders and signature favorites like the refreshing Summer Honey listed below. Summer Honey Ingredients: 1 part Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Honey™ - ½ part Midori® - 1 part pineapple juice - 3 parts lemon-lime soda Combine all ingredients except soda in shaker with ice. Shake, add soda, and serve in rocks glass. Garnish with orange slice. The cookout festivities kick off in July traveling to Houston, Atlanta, Detroit, New York and Los Angeles throughout summer. Officially registered by the U.S. Government in 1866 and based in Lynchburg, Tenn., the Jack Daniel Distillery, Lem Motlow, proprietor, is the oldest registered

distillery in the United States and is on the National Register of Historic Places. Jack Daniel’s is the maker of the world-famous Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 Tennessee Whiskey, Gentleman Jack Double Mellowed Tennessee Whiskey and many more expressions. According to Jack Daniel’s: “Cave Spring Hollow is Lynchburg’s greatest natural resource. Drawing 800 gallons of water from miles below the Earth’s surface every minute, it’s our Whiskey’s lifeblood. Crisp, cool, and a constant 56-degrees.”“Jack Daniel purchased the hollow and its surrounding land for $2,148. Which, at the time, was a fortune and then some. An amount most people would be hesitant to part with, no matter the investment. So what did Jack see in the water that made the cave spring such a necessity? Absolutely nothing. As in no sediment. No impurities. Just clean, pure, spring water. It’s about as natural as you can get.” “The cave’s layers of limestone naturally impart a variety of minerals to the water which contribute to the character of Jack Daniel’s. More importantly, the limestone also removes iron from the water. Iron definitely has its uses, but it’s absolutely horrible if you’re making Whiskey. Every bottle of Jack Daniel’s sold around the world is made with the water from this source. Considering all the Whiskey that’s come from Jack’s $2,148 investment, we’d say he received a pretty good return.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

59


Art of the Ice Cube From hand-cut diamonds to perfect spheres

The next frontier of the fanciful craft cocktail is the ice—that rock or two— that sits, usually unassumingly, in the cocktail. While it’s still not all-toocommon practice for much thought to go into the ice outside of clarity and a circular ice mold, incredible mini cocktail ice statues have popped up around the globe from some of the best bartenders we have. From hand-cut diamonds to perfect spheres, the list of frozen creations goes on. The process behind a hand-crafted sphere getting into the glass in front of you is not simply the bartender grabbing any normal piece of ice and shaping it before you (as fascinating as that is in itself); rather, it is as fascinating as it is lengthy. Let’s take a look.

60

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


F rom hand- cut diamonds to perfect spheres

Art of the Ice Cube Crafting Ice, in the prestigious craft cocktail scene, is judged on everything from the more-obvious size and cut to the granular clarity and density. Cut is difficult, of course, especially when done on the behind-the-bar stage, but that’s only on the end of the line. The clarity factor, and process behind it, leads many bars to order ice delivery on a daily basis to make sure that their ice is absolutely perfect. Have you ever stopped to contemplate the ice inside your cocktail as you swirl your drink around it at your favorite bar? What does it look like? Incredible mini cocktail ice statues have popped up around the globe from some of the best bartenders we have What does it really look like? Even if one has stared down a cocktail, fewer will note the nature of the ice. Does it look a little cloudy in places? Are there bubbles? It’s not so much a thought of imperfection as it is variation in all ice. A spot here, a spot there. Or is it? The cocktail world may have an opinion on this. You might have been lucky enough to, somewhere in nature or otherwise, see a formation of perfectly clear ice. It seems magical, almost, that the water can be that clear and freeze so solidly like a cube of heavy nothing but light refraction. How this all works

really boils down to freezing speed. Known as a lake effect, slow freezing lets bubbles rise up to the top of forming ice, instead of getting trapped inside of a quick freeze that envelops it. This results in denser, spotless ice, harder and colder than a normal, quick-frozen piece of ice. Have you ever stopped to contemplate the ice inside your cocktail st you swirl your drink around it at your favorite bar? What does it look like? What does it really look like? That said, this laborious, picky process is not completed for the finished aesthetics alone. All of these characteristics help to breathe consistency into the cocktail process, as there exists no variation from one airless cube to the next, and the density and temperature help the ice to dilute a drink at a slower pace. Technology That Creates It Of course, the popularity of this pristine ice across a vast spread of locations necessitates that we aren’t simply relying on shipping thousands of pounds of it in from the cold lakes in the colder nooks of the world—as we had long ago—to feed the bars the ice they need. A whole host of ice-making machines have been created just for this, in addition to serving as mechanical powerhouses for churning out perfect cubes (or spheres, or rectangles —you name it).

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

61


F rom h and -cut diamonds to perfect spheres

Art of the Ice Cube

The Clinebell Equipment Company is a particularly big player in the cocktail ice scene, producing giant, flawless cubes of ice composed of up to 40 gallons apiece, and two at a time in the case of the CB300X2E model. After a three-day slow freeze from the bottom up, two 300-pound blocks are ready for heavy carving. For smaller endeavors there is the Kold-Draft, which creates 1,000 pounds of uniform 1.25-inch square cubes in just one day. You might have been lucky enough to, somewhere, in nature or otherwise, see a piece of perfectly clear ice For larger uses of scale without the room or budget for a $6,000 ice machine or the desire for instant access to a wide variety of options at once, there are companies like Just Ice, Inc. that make a multitude of ice options—including those with frozen flowers and other novelty accents inside each cube. People That Practice For those into the art of the craft and with the bandwidth, all it takes is some practice and perfection (and a very sharp blade). Of course, I say “all it takes” like it’s a proverbial walk in the park, but just like the fine art of stone carving, it takes the utmost patience and built-up skill. For

62

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

some, like Hidetsugu Ueno out of the highly esteemed Bar High Five in Tokyo, Japan, the skill has been perfected from the focused, expert cutting of a large ice block into a diamond in two minutes flat with a few simple hand tools, creating a perfect fit for his serving glasses. It seems magical, almost, that the water can be that clear and freeze so solidly like a cube of heavy nothing but light refraction Overall, ice carving for cocktails is a more common practice in Japan, as is a quick but masterful crafting of a sphere in a few short minutes—which is truly in line with the combination of Japanese efficiency and hospitality, with some subtle showmanship of its craft cocktail bars. Andrew Bohrer—a former master bartender, spirits writer, and artist, among other things—was a trailblazer of the concept in the western United States. With knowledge taken from a Japanese bartender at a global spirits competition, he returned to Bellevue, Washington, concentrated on the craft, and practiced regularly in his hometown, later spreading the practice on his guest appearances across the coast.


Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

63


R en é B riand cognac

Rotary Club in Cognac in the year 1931

René Briand René Briand was a well-known cognac brand in the middle of the last century. But a word of warning is in place, do not confuse René Briand with those other two famous names of the past: Georges Briand and Gaston Briand. René Briand had his office in the city of Cognac on the Rue Marc Marchadier. Little is known about the man himself, besides that he took the initiative to start a Rotary Club in Cognac in the year 1931 of which he was president from 1932 to 1933. When exactly he started his cognac house, we do not know, but through all of his advertisements, we do know that he was very active. We also know that Italy was his most important market because everything you come across is in Italian. Even the famous actor Yul Brynner is featuring in a movie advertisement for René Briand in Italian! Today his cognacs are not frequently seen, they range from humble three stars and fine champagne reserves to beautiful old vintages. Some of his bottles are called Domaine de Bonnefont. At the end of the 1990s René Briand was taken over by the Italian distillery Franciacorta near Brescia. They kept the name René Briand, but only for the brandy they produce.

64

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

65


D elamain cognac

On all bottles of Delamain cognac you can read that 1824 was their date of establishment. This is very peculiar because their founding father was James Delamain, a.k.a. Jacques Delamain, who lived from 1738 till 1800 and who came to France in 1759. He married Marie Ranson and together with his father-in-law Isaac Ranson – who’s family already had a company set up in 1725 - he founded Ranson & Delamain in the year 1763. What happened was that after a very successful period in which they became one of the three most important and influential cognac houses, thanks to the youthful enthusiasm and shrewdness of James Delamain, the company went bankrupt in 1817. They had not been able to cope with the economical and political changes that occurred during the French Revolution and the following wars. In addition to that, problems in the family did not help either. With James’s dead

66

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


D elamain cognac

in 1800 he had left eleven children who were not all on the same page. One of these, Françoise Elisabeth had married to Thomas Hine who in 1792 had began to work as an assistant at Delamain. After the bankruptcy of Delamain he is the one who continued the company, but renamed it Hine & Co. Up to this day Hine & Co. are uncertain which date to keep on as their date of establishment. Both dates, 1763 and 1817, are being used. Then in 1824 Anne Philippe Henry Delamain, a grandson of James Delamain, makes a fresh start together with his uncle Paul Roullet. They call the firm Roullet & Delamain. In 1920 two Delamain brothers, Jacques and Robert, were able to buy out their Roullet family and named the company Delamain. So this is why they very modestly name 1824 as their date of establishment, but still call James Delamain their real founder. The family is not only famous for its cognac.

A few illustrious names are Philippe Delamain (1847-1902) who was a famous archaeologist, Robert Delamain (1879-1949) historian and geographer and famous for writing ‘Histoire du Cognac’ a superb work on cognac, still considered a reference work for cognac lovers all over the world. He was also three times president of the Société archéologique et historique de la Charente. Jacques Delamain (1874-1953), ornithologist who received an award of the Académie Française for his book ‘Pouquois les oiseaux chantent’. His son Jean (1901-1989) was a botanist who discovered some new species of wild orchids in Europe. Maurice (1883-1974) was co-founder and director of Éditions Stocks in Paris together with the famous Jacques Boutelleau and was awarded by the Académie Française for his work ‘Plaidoyer pour les mots’. All of them, except Maurice, were director of Delamain at their time. With whomever you

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

67


speak in Charente, friend or foe, everyone speaks with the highest respect of Delamain. They are exclusively a merchant house, so they do not own any vineyards of their own and never have, but their search for quality is exceptional. That is also the main reason they do not have any wine-growers under contract. Every year they sample hundreds of eaux-de-vie and already aged cognacs from local growers to select only the best of the grande champagne cru and every year each farmer very much hopes he gets the privilege of being selected. Today the company is led by direct descendants of the Delamains, Charles Braastad and Patrick Peyrelongue and although the champagne brand Bollinger has acquired a majority of the stocks, these two men are still very much in control. They virtually only make grande champagne cognacs, although in the past a few exceptions have been made. And you will not find three stars or VS cognacs either. Their youngest cognac is the Pale & Dry, which has been aged for a minimum of twenty years. Delamain has a very distinctive style. They like to buy cognacs that are distilled on the lees for the fruity taste of the esters in it. During ageing they do not use new oak casks to avoid the heavy taste of tannins, but six year old barriques rousses (red casks). They age each cognac separately before any blend is made so the individual style of

68

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


D elamain cognac

each cognac is preserved. First they store the cognacs for a number of years in humid cellars, before they are transferred to dry cellars where aromas are developing easier. Later on they go back to the humid cellars. To bring back the alcohol percentage, vieille faible – very old diluted brandies of approximately 15 Abv - is used instead of distilled water so as not to destroy the delicate character and balance of the cognac. This is done in a period of 24 months. They aim to make light and delicate cognacs with complex flavours. The colour too is very light. Too ensure consistency of colour caramel can be added if necessary, but never boisé, sugar or syrup. Their classical bottles are the Pale & Dry, the Vesper and the Très Vénérable. All three of course grande champagne and all aged for a substantially longer time than many other houses. The Pale & Dry consists of cognacs between 22 and 28 years old, the Vesper 35 till 50 years and the Très Vénérable has an average of 55 years.

An even older cognac they make is the Réserve de la Famille but this is not widely distributed. Throughout the years Delamain has produced a lot of vintage cognacs and they are very sought-after. The 1963 vintage is sublime. Delamain always has made vintage cognacs, also during the years 1962 to 1987, when it was prohibited by the BNIC because too much fraud was going on. Delamain was one of only three companies who were exonerated, because the storage ecords they kept were impeccable. Many of these vintages were shipped for further ageing to the United Kingdom only a few years after the distillation. These so-called early-landed cognacs benefited enormously from the humid storage facilities near the English coast. It is a real shame this practice has been prohibited by an executive order of the BNIC since 2003, but if you look for them, you can still find some.

Charles Braastad and Patrick Peyrelongue, both descendants of Delamain

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

69


B lack cow Vodka Made from M ilk

Black Cow Vodka Yes, It’s Actually Vodka Made from Milk A blank slate that can only, well, get more blank? Vodka, for better or worse, tends to get a bad rap in the industry. As it’s at its best when it doesn’t taste like anything, blending into the rest of the cocktail as if it isn’t there, it is not particularly seen as a very interesting or complex spirit, and is nearly a base or unfinished product itself for a more “complete” spirit like Gin.

70

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


B lack cow V odka Made from Milk

Indeed, Vodka is the spirit of focus for many industry innovators That said, as the craft cocktail and spirits world has grown exponentially, Vodka has not, wholly, been left behind. Indeed, it’s the spirit of focus for many industry innovators, one of which goes by the name of Black Cow. And, as the name may suggest, the innovation of the distillery lies in the use of cow’s milk for its basis, making it the first milk Vodka ever created. The Men Behind Black Cow Behind Black Cow Vodka, which made its debut in 2012, are two innovative gentlemen and co-founders: Jason Barber and Paul “Archie” Archard. Jason Barber is the inventor of the cow’s milk-based spirit, doubling as a farmer with his own dairy operation as its sixth-generation owner. The Barber family is known as the world’s oldest surviving family of cheddar makers, with over 200 years behind the family’s practice and experience. To this day, he still maintains and runs the production portion of Black Cow Vodka. Mr. Barber, with his intimate knowledge of the dairy industry and knack for thinking out of the box, saw this byproduct whey as a magnificent and untapped resource for the spirits industry, and began finding new ways to repurpose the surplus Paul Archard has a background in the arts, working in a variety of creative roles, from production designer and commercial director, with some time in the mix spent running his own production company. It is this creative spirit, experience, and energy that goes into the unique branding and aesthetic of Black Cow to distinguish it and its mission in the ever-saturating spirits market. Why Cow’s Milk? How Black Cow Is Made The basis of Black Cow Vodka comes from the pure milk of just over 250 grass-fed cows in West Dorset, England. After the whole milk product has been used to make cheese, the curds remain while most of the whey is removed and discarded as a byproduct (or

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

71


B lack cow Vodka Made from M ilk

used for things like protein powders or pig feed). However, Mr. Barber, with his intimate knowledge of the dairy industry and knack for thinking out of the box, saw this as a magnificent and untapped resource for the spirits industry and began finding new ways to repurpose the surplus for this new cause. Whey from cow’s milk contains a lot of natural sugars, which lend themselves well to the fermentation process. The whey is combined with a special yeast and eventually ferments into a sort of frothy, soft, and milkheavy beer. Black Cow Vodka is naturally mineral-free, which gives it a distinct, velvety softness that makes it stand far away from the usual Vodka pack Once the beer has finished its fermentation stage, it is distilled and then filtered using a proprietary filtration method known to the Black Cow distillery alone. The finished Vodka is then bottled with nothing removed, added to it, or mixed with it. For this finished product, it takes around 20 liters of milk to yield the whey that goes into it. Black Cow Vodka is naturally mineral-free, which gives it a distinct, velvety softness that makes it stand far away from the usual Vodka pack. While neither its flavor nor color do too much to hint at its pure milk origins—in a good way—it features pleasantly sweet vanilla notes with just a touch of cinnamon and finishes through a clean warmth. Among many other awards, Black Cow Vodka took home the 2015 Gold Medal for the San Francisco World Spirits Competition. Production hit around 120,000 bottles in 2016 and trends toward doubling production annually. Black Cow in Cocktails As Black Cow prides itself (and delivers) on the purity and smoothness of its Vodka, it’s best to use it in cocktails with more subtle flavors and lighter accents that may let the Vodka still shine through—much unlike a traditional Vodka cocktail. Of course, it is always best to try it on its own; truly unique, it can’t be a missed opportunity.

72

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


B lack cow V odka Made from Milk

Lemon and Cardamom Nymph

Stiff Upper Lip

A very minimalist, clean, and straightforward cocktail by Black Cow’s Creative Director, Helen Archard. It is bright with citrus and the soda water with a lack of added sugar helps to carry the true taste of Black Cow through the entire cocktail.

Initially, Mr. Barber had experimented with apples and potatoes as the basis for his Vodka. But, evidenced by his Black Cow label, neither had really worked out. That said, it’s best to add in our apple after the Vodka is made, which is done in this cocktail; it introduces a bit of sugar in floral cordial form, but balances it out with an interesting and uncommon addition of apple cider vinegar to the mix.

Ingredients: 25 ml Black Cow Vodka - Soda water - Lemon twist - 3-4 Cardamom pods, steeped in a little Black Cow Directions 1. Muddle the cardamom pods in the bottom of a rocks glass with a little of the steeping Vodka. 2. Fill the glass with ice. 3. Add the Black Cow Vodka and top with soda water. 4. Twist the lemon zest over the drink to the release the oils into the glass, and run the zest around the rim before adding to the glass as a garnish.

Ingredients: 50 ml Black Cow Vodka - 15 ml Elderflower cordial - 25 ml Lime juice - 5 ml Cider vinegar - 4 Mint leaves 3 for the shaker and 1 for garnish Directions 1. Combine all ingredients in a shaker with cubed ice. 2. Double strain into a Nick and Nora glass. 3. Garnish with floating mint leaf.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

73


Parker’s Heritage Collection

Heaven Hill Release 2018 Parker’s Heritage Heaven Hill Distillery has announced the 2018 limited edition release of Parker’s Heritage Collection Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey finished in orange curaçao barrels. The 12th edition will ship into select markets across the country beginning in September. Versatile Innovation The 2018 edition showcases the versatility that Heaven Hill’s 1.4 million aging barrels provide for an ultra-premium, innovative Bourbon. Aged for seven to eight years in the upper floors of Rickhouse Q, the Bourbon was then aged for four months in barrels that previously held French orange curaçao liqueur. The orange curaçao finished offering is the second barrel-finished Bourbon in twelve years of the annual Parker’s Heritage Collection series. Royer also partnered on a previous edition, which featured a Cognac finished Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey.

74

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Parker’s Heritage Collection

A Unique Flavor Profile Bottled at 110 proof (55% abv) and non-chill filtered to preserve all the flavor compounds, the orange curaçao finish lends a unique flavor that complements the Bourbon without overpowering it, creating an entirely new and elegant tasting experience. The annual release of Parker’s signature line is one of the most highly anticipated bottlings for Whiskey and Bourbon lovers worldwide, as the collection produces an innovative, highly sought after bottling each year and now serves as a remembrance of the collection’s namesake. Parker’s Heritage Collection was originally conceived to showcase the extraordinary quality and broad range of Heaven Hill’s American Whiskey holdings, as Heaven Hill boasts the world’s second largest inventory of aging American Whiskey. Raising Funds for Charity The late Heaven Hill Master Distiller Parker Beam, for whom the acclaimed series is named, was diagnosed with Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (also called ALS or Lou Gehrig’s disease) in 2010. The past five editions from 2013-2017, including the “Promise of Hope” Bourbon, the “Original Batch” Straight Wheat Whiskey, the Kentucky Straight Malt Whiskey, the 24-Year-Old Bottled-in-Bond Bourbon, and the 11-Year-Old Single Barrel, respectively, have raised over one million dollars toward ALS research and patient care through contributions made by Heaven Hill for each bottle purchased. Heaven Hill will continue with this cause-related campaign, and will again contribute a portion of the proceeds from the average national retail cost of $89.99 of each 750ml bottle sold of this year’s release to the ALS Association. With every past edition of Parker’s Heritage Collection quickly selling out, the company expects to continue to generate significant dollars for this effort in Parker’s memory. Finding the Perfect Balance “We are excited to resume our partnership with Alain Royer as we continue to innovate with barrel finished products,” said Susan Wahl, Group Product Director at Heaven Hill Distillery. “Parker appreciated thoughtful, new ways to enjoy Bourbon, as evidenced by his original collaboration with Royer. This newest edition blends both Parker’s imprint, as the Bourbon was distilled by him several years ago, but also the imprint of our current Master Distiller, Denny Potter, who worked through countless samples to find the perfect balance of flavor and Bourbon.” “We are proud to continue offering the Parker’s Heritage Collection in his memory and continue to support ALS research and patient care efforts.” Critically Lauded Packaged in the same upscale 750ml bottle as the previous eleven editions, but with a beige colored label, the newest Parker’s Heritage Collection edition reflects the care and craftsmanship of its contents. Available in a three-bottle case, it will be featured on the shelves and back bars of the nation’s finest spirits retailers and onpremise accounts starting in September. With previous releases having won multiple awards from Whisky Advocate magazine, Whisky Magazine and the San Francisco World Spirits Competition, the series stands as some of the most critically lauded American Whiskeys in recent memory. Past bottlings have won awards ranging from “Best North American Whiskey” to “American Whiskey of the Year” to “Best of Show, Brown Spirits.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

75


CÎ R O C™ U ltra- Premium V odka

76

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


CÎR OC™ U ltra-Premium Vodka

CÎROC™ Ultra-Premium Vodka, made exclusively from fine French grapes, is proud to introduce a new standard of luxury celebration - CÎROC™ TEN. Our master distiller selected a vibrant blend of fine French grape varietals, including the first harvest grapes of the 2013 vintage. First harvest grapes are known by vintners to be the most crisp representation of the harvest, picked during early maturity to ensure a bright, clean flavor. The blend was created in celebration of the 10-year anniversary of CÎROC™ Ultra-Premium Vodka. CÎROC™ Ultra-Premium Vodka is gluten free. TASTING FEATURES; NOSE Alluring, clean, and crisp with a hint of citrus TASTE Delicately crisp and dry with substantial aromas of rich citrus and a whisper of sweetness FINISH Long with a silky smooth mouth-feel

VODKA CREATIONS Made with vodka distilled five times, the CÎROC™ portfolio has a smooth, clean taste and bright luscious flavor variants lending to creative cocktail creation.

CÎROC: PINEAPPLE

CÎROC: APPLE

CÎROC: AMARETTO

LA PIÑA

CÎROC APPLE SANGRIA HARLEM SOUR

CÎROC: PEACH

PEACH BELLINI

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

77


Tomatin Limited Edition Moscatel Finished Whisky Highland Whisky distillery Tomatin has announced the release of its new limited edition Moscatel finished Whisky. The expression, which was distilled in 2003, is aged 15 years and has a limited run of just over 6,000 bottles available worldwide. Flavor and Maturation The Whisky has been finished in first fill Portuguese Moscatel wine barriques for a period of five years, with the maturation imparting flavors of toasted almonds and oranges, sun-dried raisins and figs, creating a sweet and creamy finish. This isn’t the first time Tomatin have experimented with unusual cask maturation. Fans of the distillery will remember, for example, the limited edition 14-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon and 9-year-old Caribbean Rum expressions, which proved popular in 2016. This ongoing experimentation is a result of Tomatin’s exceptional wood policy which ensures there is a wide range of casks sourced from prestigious partners within the industry.

78

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


limited edition M oscatel finished Whisky

A Rare Release Jennifer Masson, Tomatin’s Marketing Manager, said, “We are delighted to be able to release such an interesting and unusual cask maturation to our range of limited edition Whiskies.” “Moscatel releases are relatively rare and tend to be limited as the casks aren’t widely available – making this expression a must-have and we expect it will prove very popular with our customers who are looking for something a little different, but still typically Tomatin.” Known for ranging from chestnut to an intense mahogany in color, the Moscatel wine and non-chill filtration give this Whisky a distinctive character and rich, beautiful golden color. Moscatel wine, made from the muscat grape variety, delivers pronounced fruity notes, whilst also featuring an intense aromatic nose. The Portuguese wine characteristically has aromas of jasmine, orange blossom and honeysuckle, with addition of citric notes of lime and grapefruit and other hints of sweetness. Graham Eunson, Tomatin’s Distillery Manager, said, “This full-bodied and intense Single Malt may be unusual in as much as it is finished in first fill Moscatel barriques, however this really accentuates what Tomatin Whiskies are known for being: smooth, light, sweet and fruity.” The limited

edition Moscatel expression is available from specialist retailers at a cost of RRP £75 and comes in a 70cl bottle (46% abv). Strength to Strength Tomatin is located in the Scottish Highlands (near Inverness) and is famous for its portfolio of thirty soft and mellow Whiskies, including a core range, a limited-edition range and a premium archive range (prices range from £35 – £2,500). Tomatin is one of the fastest growing Whisky brands in the UK and ranks within the Top 10 Single Malt brands in the USA. Tomatin recently reported its turnover increased by almost 25% during the company’s most recent financial year (Dec 2016 – Dec 2017). Tomatin won Distiller of the Year 2016 and Brand Innovator of the Year 2017 at the Icons of Whisky Scotland Awards. According to Tomatin: “As Tomatin was forced into liquidation in 1984, Takara Shuzo joined forces with the respected trading company Okura and purchased the distillery, forming the Tomatin Distillery Company Ltd and thus creating the first fully Japanese owned Scottish distillery in 1986.” “Since that time, the focus has changed and the distillery has gone from strength to strength. There has been a change in strategy to grow the Tomatin brand in its own right.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

79


T H E ultimate super sports car

MORE “BEAST” COMBINED WITH A HIGH LEVEL OF “BEAUTY” The Chiron1. Each single Bugatti is a one of a kind - as individual as its owners. The level of individuality that can be achieved is subject to very few limitations. Find your inspiration and experience of the countless possibilities available.

WE HAVE MADE THE BEST EVEN BETTER

80

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


THE NE W R OL L S-ROYCE PHANTOM

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

81


Chattanooga Whiskey Co.’s

“Vote Whiskey” Campaign Brings Whiskey Back Home

The Chattanooga Whiskey Co. rewrote century-old laws with their Vote Whiskey campaign to be able to distill Whiskey in their hometown. Pre-Prohibition, Chattanooga, Tennessee, was once one of the largest Whiskey-distilling cities in the nation with more than 30 distilleries in Chattanooga’s downtown area from 1866–1915. Although Prohibition was repealed in 1933, until 2009 only three counties allowed liquor distillation. Then in 2009, it became legal to distill spirits in 41 counties in Tennessee. But Hamilton County, where Chattanooga is situated, wasn’t one of the 41 counties included. It wasn’t until 2013, due to the “Vote Whiskey” campaign started by Tim Piersant and Joe Ledbetter, that liquor distilling in Chattanooga was legalized. In March 2015, Chattanooga Whiskey Co. built the first legal distillery in Chattanooga since Prohibition.

82

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


The C hattanooga Whiskey Co

In 2011, out of 95 counties, most could not distill—Chattanooga being one of them. Piersant explains how they got around the dilemma: “We packaged a product that was made entirely out of town that shipped straight to our distributors.” Chattanooga Whiskey Co. launched as a concept on Facebook in 2011 with no product or plan, but due to local media coverage and public request, it manifested itself into a product in a matter of months with a launch by early 2012. In its beginnings, the company sourced its Bourbon from Indiana, Piersant says, “…because it was illegal to distill in Chattanooga and much of Tennessee due to state laws that dated back to Prohibition. Shortly after our launch in Chattanooga, all of Tennessee, and all of Georgia, we shifted our focus to changing laws so that we could bring real Chattanooga Whiskey to the people of Chattanooga for the first time in 100 years.” Vote Whiskey The Vote Whiskey campaign started locally and then moved to the state where Piersant says they sought “…an AG (Attorney General) opinion that caused us to form new bills. Those new bills opened distilling for the majority of Tennessee in 2013, allowing dozens of distilleries to open their doors the coming years, but most importantly allowing us to build Chattanooga’s first distillery since 1915. “We were met with significant headwinds throughout the process but managed to fight through it all thanks to overwhelming public support. For that, our slogan is now ‘Whiskey to the People.’ We established our first distillery in 2015 across from the Chattanooga Choo Choo on Market Street where old distilleries once existed. That distillery is now called the Chattanooga Whiskey Experimental Distillery. In 2017 we established our second distillery, also in downtown Chattanooga, which is called the Chattanooga Whiskey Riverfront HQ.” The Vote Whiskey campaign started as a tool to educate citizens about Whiskey and the political process that would be involved in creating change. The law would allow Piersant and Ledbetter to move the production of Chattanooga Whiskey home. “The Vote Whiskey campaign was created by both Joe and me in a brainstorm to raise awareness that it was illegal to distill and that the only way laws would change would be by widespread community support.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

83


T h e C h attanooga W h iskey Co

Most of the community didn’t understand why Chattanooga Whiskey was made in Indiana up until the Vote Whiskey Campaign took effect,” Piersant says. Even at the last moment, the law was controversial and “…rolled several times before it finally passed on the last day of the general assembly.” Now that they’re free to distill Whiskey in Chattanooga, they’re getting noticed for two of their best sellers, the 1816 Reserve and the 1816 Cask.

84

1816 RESERVE “Smooth with a hint of spice, you’ll love the clean finish of our 1816 Reserve. The Reserve is a 90-proof high-rye Bourbon, aged in charred American white oak barrels with a mash bill consisting of 75% corn, 21% rye, and 4% malted barley. Drink it as you like it—neat, chilled with Whiskey stones, or mixed in your favorite cocktail.”

1816 CASK “1816 Cask is a robust 113.6-proof blend, coming from barrels selected for their bold character and high-proof cask notes. It is an immediately more intense Whiskey on the nose with vanilla and dark toffee notes up front and cinnamon notes in the background. The finish is warm and slightly spicy, extremely smooth for its proof.”

PROOF: 90 - COLOR: Deep Amber - AROMA: Extremely balanced oak and rye character. Strong notes of caramel, light vanilla, butterscotch candy, and baking spices with a distinct, earthy rye undertone. - FLAVOR: Balanced sweet and spicy oak character with a medium body. - FINISH: Clean, lightly warming and slightly drying finish.

PROOF: 113.6 - COLOR: Mahogany - AROMA: Amplified oak and spice character, compared to Reserve. Confectionary notes of toffee pudding, vanilla bean, and brown sugar. Background notes of cinnamon and black tea with a light, earthy rye undertone. - FLAVOR: Bold, sweet, and spicy approach with a rich, full body. - FINISH: Warming with a velvety, mouth-coating finish.

AWARDS: ● “Double Gold” from the San Francisco World Spirits Competition ● “91/100” from the Ultimate Spirits Challenge

AWARDS: ● “BEST BOURBON” from the International Whisky Competition ● “BEST SMALL BATCH BOURBON” from the International Whisky Competition ● “Gold” from the San Francisco World Spirits Competition ● “Gold” from the American Distilling Institute ● “93/100” from the Ultimate Spirits Challenge

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


When asked if there is anything unique about Chattanooga Distilling Co.’s distilling process, Piersant replied, “Yes, a lot. The Experimental Distillery has allowed us to push the envelope of quality and complexity with Bourbon. We use more specialty malts, malted Whiskey yeast , longer fermentations, multiple barrels chars/toasts, and a Solera Barrel process. There is nothing about our process that isn’t dedicated to a more complex and higher-quality Bourbon Whiskey. That is why we call it ‘Tennessee High Malt.’” Tours include a chance to view their custom-made still, affectionately named “Doc.” Piersant says the still is “the star of the show. Tours include a lesson in how Whiskey is made from ‘grains to glass’ and a chance to peek into the process. You may even get a chance to meet our Head Distiller, Grant McCracken, and see what he’s mixing up on any given day. Have a dram, learn a little something, and get a better understanding of what makes Chattanooga Whiskey such a special part of this great Tennessee tradition.” And what does Piersant say is Chattanooga Whiskey Company’s vision going forward? “To make Chattanooga Whiskey the best sipping Whiskey from Tennessee.” The future looks bright, indeed.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

85


Interview wit h G eorge V esel

George Vesel Trends in Alcohol | Interview with a Liquor Broker

George Vesel knows spirits. The owner of Veselbev, a beverage brokerage since 2006, Vesel spent his entire adult life working in the spirits industry. His resume is impressive: managing partner of an award-winning restaurant, manager of a sales division for a wine and spirits distributor, and, now, liquor broker.

86

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Interview with G eorge Vesel

“In my brokerage, while I was acquiring different products, different brands, the cocktail revolution and craft distillers started coming on, and spirits became a more dynamic part of the brokerage business than previously. The wine business is still good but with all the interest in retro cocktails and the creativity in creating cocktails, plus the explosion of brown liquors and rye Whiskey, the spirits aspect of the business experienced huge growth,” Vesel says. As a broker, Vesel maintains as diverse of a portfolio as he can to appeal to a broad range of customers, both on and off premise. Veselbev is a beverage brokerage based in the Kansas City area covering the six central states representing wines, spirits, non-alcoholic mixes, and accessories. In addition to a passion for wine and spirits, Vesel is also deeply committed to community action. He is the Kansas City Chapter founding member, board member, and former chair of The American Institute of Wine & Food (AIWF); former vice chair of Heart of America March of Dimes; and has been a member of the Chaine des Rotisseurs. Vesel is a Kansas City Chapter founding member, board member, and cochair of Slow Food, plus a board member of The Kansas City Community Gardens. In addition, he is a committee member of the Lewis and Clark Historic Park at Kaw Point. When I heard about Vesel’s impressive background, I knew he was the person to sit down and talk to about trends in the spirits industry. Trends in the Spirit Industry I was curious to learn how trends get started. Is it usually a marketing ploy? Or do trends originate organically from mixologists? Vesel says it’s probably a combination of a number of things, just like with any other consumer product. “I think it may start with someone doing a little bit of experimentation and then all of a sudden it gets press and recognized and goes from there. Marketing usually comes along later on. Companies don’t generally spend a lot of money until they have a general idea something might work. Unless they have really deep pockets, which some do. There’s so much social media going on now with bartender’s guilds, newsletters, national bartenders with blogs and newsletters…they’re very much on the cutting edge of what’s going on in the spirits world.” One of the larger cocktail events, Vesel says, is Tales of the Cocktail, held in July each year in New Orleans. Vesel says, “There are lots of suppliers tasting new products and attending seminars. I think the business has gotten very much into education, just like wine has over the years. I think spirits in general—distillers, marketers, salespeople—started to do seminars and put information out there, educating and legitimizing the category.”

George Vesel

Take the Old and Make it New Another trend is the revival of great old products to be used in traditional and new ways. One example is Negroni Week. Campari has been around for a long time, but special events like Negroni Week helped revive an old product and create new uses, too. “One way to make the old new are special events like Negroni Week. Then there are the mixologists trying new things with old liquors: incorporating herbs and spices into cocktails, smoking the ice, lots of different tweaks to cocktails that make it fun. It doesn’t mean they’re all good or all work but experimentation makes it interesting.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

87


Interview wit h G eorge V esel

Trends in Alcohol Interview with a Liquor Broker George Vesel

Dark Goods Phenomenon In our conversation, Vesel mentioned the dark goods phenomenon, saying that Bourbon hit a flavor profile for Americans caused in part by a shortage. “I think one of the problems originally is there’s a bit of a shortage of product aged sufficiently—products that acquire the complexity some consumers want. You can make Whiskey overnight, really, if you want to. But an aged product takes time.” Sometimes these shortages create opportunities for people because it brings attention to the whole category. There were many reasons for the shortage, and only part of it was an increase in consumption. “There’s sort of a hidden reason because there was a shortage of barrels, actually. Bourbon has to be aged in oak. It does not have to be American oak, but it has to be new oak. Probably 100 percent is aged in American oak, but the law doesn’t dictate that it must be American oak. It just dictates new, charred oak barrels. “During the housing bust in the early 2000s when there was little housing being developed, a lot of lumber companies, loggers, went out of business because they couldn’t sell lumber. So that created a shortage of barrels. There weren’t enough barrels to age enough Bourbon to satisfy the sudden increase in demand. This barrel shortage was a hidden contribution to the shortage of, in particular, Bourbon aged four or more years.” So the shortage of barrels, plus the need to age fine Bourbon (and the subsequent wait), caused desire. Vesel says, “If you can’t get something—or enough of it—you want it and you want more of it. I think that’s why there’s been a proliferation of brands. Probably to a certain degree, brands that aren’t aged as long.” In addition to the shortage of Bourbon products, Vesel says another contributor to the dark goods phenomenon were the buzzwords, previously used for wine, that started to circulate. Bartenders, like wine sommeliers, got into learning information about and esoterica of the products. The business of drinking became more fun as bartenders talked about, recommended, blogged about, and created new recipes.

88

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Interview with G eorge Vesel

Convenient Packaging Originally, the box wine started in Europe as one-liter boxes, called bricks, because they were the size of a brick. The box wine came to the U.S. with a bag in a box. You’ll still find those boxed wines, but now there are more smaller packages, too. The small, travel-friendly-size boxes are popular now, and Vesel says the wine that goes into them is better than it used to be. Another trend in packaging is liquor in cans. It’s cheaper than glass, and it’s lighter, so shipping costs dropped. Cocktails in cans were popular a long time ago. More recently there’s been a focus on cocktails in pouches. Vesel says of the trend, “The jury is out on whether cocktails in cans will become popular again and replace pouches.” I guess we’ll wait and see. Squeeze packaging is another packaging method that provides convenience for vacation, travel, or poolside enjoyment. Cannabis’ Effect on Discretionary Income A trend that may be simmering is how legal cannabis sales will affect buyers’ discretionary income. Since cannabis sales are still fairly new in those markets, it’ll take a while to determine the long-term effects on the spirits and wine business. “There are some concerns in the industry about how it will affect a buyer’s discretionary income,” Vesel says. “We’re starting to see hemp-infused products to head off the pass.” DCT, or Direct-to-Consumer Selling The final trend we discussed is that of DCT, or direct-to-consumer selling. Wine and liquor sales, particularly from craft distillers, sold directly to consumers will continue to grow. Vesel says of the trend, “I think it’ll grow but I don’t see it being dominant.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

89


Chateau du Perron in Gensac-La-Pallue

Castillon

Castillon was once a grand name in the world of cognac Castillon was once a grand name in the world of cognac. It is perhaps better to call them by their full name ‘Pinet, Castillon & Co’. In 1814 Jean Élie Henry Castillon du Perron and Henri Pinet started this company in the city of Cognac. They were merchants, not producers. Within a couple of years they had gained a dominating position in the cognac business. They were shipping worldwide and enjoyed a huge popularity. Beside trading they occupied important positions in the public life like maire de Cognac, judge of the Commercial Court and chairman of that same Court.

90

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


PPinet, C astillon & Co

Old label of Pinet Castillon & Co. already with the Three Barrels logo.

Around 1900 they owned warehouses and distilleries in several adjacent streets in the city of Cognac: Rue de Gâtebourse, Rue du Port and Rue de l’Abattoir (today called Rue des Gabariers). They had stocks of over 1000 casks of cognac in each of four different huge buildings. Financially they were doing very well, as can be seen by the beautiful chateau of mr. Castillon du Perron, le Chateau du Perron in Gensac-la-Pallue, halfway between Cognac and Jarnac. The chateau du Breuil in Bonneuil was also his property, as was the Chateau la Soloire. Of this last building not much information has remained. In 1947 they created a new brand: Three Barrels. This brand was bought by Pellisson in 1975 at the same time as when Pellisson bought Raynal. This brand, Three Barrels, is still produced for the UK, but it is now to be called brandy. The same goes for Raynal, a brandy they make for the rest of the world. Since 2005 the brands are owned by William Grant & Sons. Meanwhile Pinet, Castillon & Co. was bought by Renault in 1963. Together they named themselves Castillon-Renault. Both families were already tied together by several marriages. At that time Castillon was more in the wholesale business, selling cognac in casks, while Renault put more emphasis on bottles. Both companies kept their independence though. When Mr. Renault’s health deteriorated Mr. Castillon took over in 1968 for both firms. In 1973 Hennessy bought Castillon-Renault, only to resell them to the Dreyfus group in 1975. Again they kept their independency. Castillon-Renault merged with Bisquit-Dubouché in 1991 to be called Renault-Bisquit, but in 2009 the two brands were split-up again. Bisquit being owned by Distell and Renault by the Finnish firm Altia.Sadly the brand name Castillon has disappeared during the 1970’s. Very regularly Pinet Castillon bottles are offered for sale, a lot of them vintages. But do not be surprised to find Napoleon, VSOP and three star bottles as well.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

91


Dalmore 50-Year - O ld

Dalmore 50-Year-Old Dalmore 50-Year-Old Sets Auction Record A bottle of one of the world’s most sought-after Whiskies, Dalmore 50-Year-Old, has sold for £28,000 ($36,700) at Whisky-Online Auctions in Blackpool. Originally created by Dalmore’s legendary Master Blender Richard Paterson in 1978, the youngest spirit in the assemblage is believed to have been from 1926 and several older liquids were used including Whiskies distilled at Dalmore in the 19th century.

92

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Dalmore 50-Year-Old

A New World Record Only 60 hand-numbered bottles of this Dalmore 50-year-old were ever produced, packaged in hand-cut crystal decanters in a hardwood presentation case. The Whisky was bottled at 52%, an unusually high strength for a spirit of this great age. Bottle No. 1 of the Dalmore 50yo sold last night after frantic bidding brought the hammer price to £28,000, a new world record for this bottle. Increase in Interest Available for around £6000 in 2012, the value of Dalmore 50yo has escalated dramatically in recent months, with previous bottles selling for £14,300 in January 2017, £18,600 in March 2017 and then £22,100 in August 2017. Wayne Ormerod, the founder of Whisky-Online Auctions, commented: “The Dalmore 50-year-old is a combination of liquid genius and pure beauty. There are very few single malt Scotch Whiskies distilled in the 1920s that have been bottled at such an age combined with a high bottling strength.” “This is a Whisky that for many years never really established the reputation it truly deserves.” Confident of Overperformance Ormerod added: “We know this bottle very well having handled multiple examples over the years and although our estimate was conservative at £18,000-£22,000, we were very confident that we would overperform on behalf of our client.” “We had numerous interested bidders from China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and even strong bidders from here in the UK.” “But when the hammer finally fell it was nice to see a regular customer from Italy secured themselves a fantastic piece of Scottish liquid history.” Unparalleled Expertise Founded in 2012, Whisky-Online Auctions is the sister company to the long-established Whisky retail website Whisky-Online.com. The family-owned company is one of the UK’s largest specialist online Whisky auctions, focusing particularly on old and rare bottlings of single malt and blended Whiskies. This expertise and an unparalleled network of contacts have enabled them to curate some of the most impressive Whisky auctions of recent years. Unique Process of Maturation According to The Dalmore: “Conventionally, Whisky stills are uniform in shape and size. Luckily for Whisky drinkers though, The Dalmore is never one to let convention stand in the way of making the best Whisky possible. We believe the combination of different stills, of various sizes, produce a stronger and more complex character.” “So even though their irregular shapes mean that the distillation needs more skill, care, and attention, the exceptional Whisky makes it all worthwhile.” “Others may try to replicate the artistry found in every drop of The Dalmore but they will never be successful. That’s because our maturation process is completely unique.” “Many expression of The Dalmore is matured in two precious wooden casks: American white oak ex-bourbon casks and exclusive aged sherry casks from Gonzalez Byass.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

93


Wine Dinner in Las Vegas Tuscany Gardens Guests Learn the Allure of J. Lohr at Wine Dinner in Las Vegas Tuscany Suites & Casino recently welcomed guests for a J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines Wine Dinner inside fine-dining Italian restaurant Tuscany Gardens, just steps away from the Las Vegas Strip. The elegant fourcourse dinner is paired with a variety of red and white wine vintages from the acclaimed family-owned and -operated winery with accompanying dishes from the restaurant’s Executive Chef Jose Martinez.

94

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


W ine D inner in Las Vegas

Located near the Tuscany Suites & Casino’s west entrance and across from Piazza Lounge, Tuscany Gardens features steak, seafood, veal, and homemade pastas complemented by the Chef Martinezes’ famous sauces. The menu includes a Wine Spectator award-winning wine list while a full bar with spirits and Champagne are also available. Founded in 1971, J. Lohr covers more than 3,700 acres of estate vineyards including more than 1,300 acres in the Arroyo Seco and Santa Lucia Highlands regions of Monterey County, with an emphasis on Chardonnay, Riesling, Valdiguié, and Pinot Noir; more than 2,300 acres in Paso Robles, now recognized for Cabernet Sauvignon and other Bordeaux and Rhone varietals; and 33 acres in Napa Valley. Founder Jerry Lohr fell in love with wine while attending Stanford University and followed his instincts to help pioneer the Central Coast’s emergence as a winegrowing region. While the company started from nothing, today it ranks among the top 30 wine producers in the United States, with annual U.S. sales exceeding 1 million cases. The winery offers four tiers of award-winning wines—J. Lohr Estates,

J. Lohr Vineyard Series, J. Lohr Cuvée Series, and J. Lohr Gesture, with limited-release wines available only to tasting-room visitors, wine club members, and via the internet. Seating for the J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines Wine Dinner began just before sunset at Tuscany Gardens. Upon arrival, guests were seated in the restaurant’s elegant dining room, overlooking the property’s picturesque garden and pool area. As Michael Skurow, Nevada Manager for J. Lohr Vineyards & Wines, provided guests with information on the evening’s wine selections, property Wine Director and Sommelier Kat Zdeb filled their glasses. “There’s only a small percentage in the world of wineries that age their wines in barrels,” Skurow told guests, referring to J. Lohr’s roasty American, Hungarian, and French oak barrel signature. “At our winery, we have about 85,000 barrels. Imagine what it takes to manage those barrels.” Skurow shared other tidbits about the winery and vineyards throughout the night. It turns out, for instance, that Tuscany Suites & Casino is J. Lohr’s largest Nevada client.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

95


96

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


W ine D inner in Las Vegas

Courses for the wine dinner were as follows:

First Course – Insalata Di Gamberi & 2016 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay Grown in the heart of the Arroyo Seco in Monterey County with winter and spring rainfall, the 2016 Arroyo Vista Chardonnay is a richly flavored, straw yellow Chardonnay. Cooler weather allowed the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. This wine was the Editor’s Choice for the July 2018 Wine Enthusiast Advance Wine Buying Guide, with a score of 92 points. For the first course, the Chardonnay’s balanced stone and fruit flavors and long, sweet oak finish were perfectly paired with Insalata Di Gamberi, a light and tasty salad with frisée and spinach, grilled nectarine, shrimp, and feta, tossed in a palatepleasing citrus dressing. Second Course – Duck Ravioli & 2015 Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir The darkest wine ever produced by J. Lohr and second only to the 2012 in terms of tannin structure, the Vineyard Series 2015 Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir has an elegantly refined structure and flavor with aromas of fruit and spice, melded with roasty oak. The 10th release of Fog’s Reach Pinot Noir, it was hand-harvested at night, destemmed and sorted on Pellenc sorting spindles, and transferred to open-top fermenters. For the night’s second course, Martinez paired the elegant vintage from the foggy Arroyo Seco AVA with a tender and succulent duck ravioli and parsnip puree with parmigiano, micro herb, and a black plum sauce.

Third Course – Bison Tenderloin & 2014 Signature Cabernet Sauvignon The most expensive wine of the night, J. Lohr’s Signature Cabernet Sauvignon was first produced as a challenge to J. Lohr’s winemakers to make the best possible wine in honor of Jerry Lohr’s 80th birthday. The second vintage of this limitededition wine, it comes from company’s Beck Vineyard, located above the fog line in the Creston District of Paso Robles. Aged in French oak barrels for 17 months from coopers Demptos, Marcel Cadet, Nadalie, and Saint Marti, only 2,668 three-bottle cases were bottled in June 2016. The nuanced Cabernet Sauvignon was paired with a hefty hunk of bison tenderloin that was served with portabelline mushroom, demi-glace, and a beautiful array of mixed carrots. Desert – Chocolate Rum Cake & Vineyard Series 2014 Tower Road Petite Sirah A hidden jewel in J. Lohr’s portfolio, according to Skurow, the Vineyard Series Tower Road Petite Sirah from Paso Robles is a bold and silky vintage that goes great with aromatic herbs and pan-seared meat dishes, but also with chocolate. Ninetyfive percent Petite Sirah, 3 percent Syrah, and 2 percent Grenache, the dense wine was paired with a huge piece of gooey chocolate Rum cake, served with a cherry compote and gelato.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

97



‘D iscover The Sound of I slay ’

Bunnahabhain Bunnahabhain Unveils ‘The Sound of Islay’ Positioning Islay’s most remote distillery is harnessing the ‘The Sound of Islay’ in a new brand positioning and marketing campaign aimed at celebrating the rugged, romantic isolation of Bunnahabhain and its sea-faring heritage. A play on both the distillery’s location on the narrow strait of sea between Islay and Jura, as well as the brand’s Gaelic naming convention, the campaign uses phonetic spellings to portray ‘The Sound of Islay’.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

99


Unique Pace of Life Leading with a digital campaign, ‘The Sound of Islay’ will bring consumers closer to the unique sound of Bunnahabhain’s location, production, and pronunciation in a playful manner. Derek Scott, Brand Director for Malt Whisky said: “The Sound of Islay campaign aims to take people on a journey to discover the unique pace of life at Bunnahabhain.” “Showcasing all of the aspects that make our Whisky so special – from the challenging trip to get there, the summer rain that will one day become our precious spirit, to a warm welcome in the most remote corner of Islay.” Scott added: “The new positioning highlights the brand’s personality with humor in embracing the fact that many people find our Whisky names such as Stuireadair {Stew-rahdur} difficult to pronounce.” “We hope this will aid us in driving a closer connection between our Whisky, which is enjoyed worldwide, and our locational heritage through our Gaelic roots.” Tied to the Sea Bunnahabhain, which translates as ‘mouth of the river’ is an unusual Islay distillery as its core expressions are largely non-peated. Without the veil of strong and smoky peat that the ‘Whisky Isle’s’ malts are known for, Bunnahabhain allows the distillery’s remote location to shine through in the character of its Whisky. Maturing all of its malts on site in its seaside warehouses perched on the rugged coastline of the Sound, Bunnahabhain has a long, salt-sprayed history with the sea leaving an indelible mark on every bottle of Whisky crafted there.

100

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


‘D iscover The Sound of I slay ’

Unprecedented Success Bunnahabhain’s award-winning portfolio of malts has been recognized across the globe for their salty brine and light complexity owed to its coastal location on the Sound of Islay. This year, the brand won Best Scotch Islay 21 Years & Over at the World Whisky Awards for its signature 25-Year-Old expression, which was supported by an unprecedented sweep of wins across all Islay age categories for its 12-year-old, 18-year-old and non-age-statement, Stuireadair {Stew-rah-dur}. A Perfect Environment Bunnahabhain is Islay’s most northerly and remote distillery founded in 1881. Not a typical smoky Islay malt, Bunnahabhain’s core range are light, non-peated malts that are all non-chill-filtered and natural in color. The distillery’s sea-facing warehouses provide the perfect environment for maturing Bunnahabhain and it remains unique on Islay maturing all of its spirits at the distillery. The brand’s core range includes 12 Year Old, 18 Year Old, 25 Year Old, 40 Year Old and a non-age statement expression called Stiuireadair. Distell is Africa’s leading producer of wines, spirits, ciders, Scotch Whisky and ready-to-drinks (RTDs) with a portfolio of close on 100 brands. Within the portfolio, Distell owns four single malts and a number of scotch brands produced across three distillery sites.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

101




grey goose vodka

Grey Goose Vodka Bacardi Names Lee Applbaum as Grey Goose Chief Bacardi Limited has announced that Lee Applbaum, global chief marketing officer of Patrรณn Spirits, will be expanding his role to head up global marketing for Grey Goose serving as CMO for both Patrรณn Spirits and Grey Goose Vodka. In this new top category role, Applbaum is responsible for developing the global marketing vision and premium positioning for the world leader in super-premium Vodka.

104

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


grey goose vodka

Seeking Growth In the role, he will drive global strategy to lead the Grey Goose brand to the next level including brand equity, architecture, positioning, advertising, creative, brand communications, experiential, packaging, and strategic direction on new product development and innovation. Applbaum reports to Bacardi Limited Chief Executive Officer Mahesh Madhavan and will be based in Bermuda, subject to the approval from the Bermuda Immigration department. He will spend time at the Patrón office in Dallas, as well as in the Bacardi offices of Coral Gables and London, among others. More Than Just Liquid “Much of Lee’s focus with Patrón tequila has been on building world-class assets to communicate the brands’ rich artisanal story. I look forward to Lee bringing his creativity, ideas, and talent to Grey Goose as the two brands are both category leaders,” says Madhavan. “One of the greatest benefits of our recent acquisition of Patrón Spirits has been the merging and sharing of talent. It was always about more than just the liquid. These were the types of synergies that we were looking for when we acquired Patrón Spirits earlier this year.” “Grey Goose and Patrón are two iconic brands that stand alongside each other behind some of the best bars in the world. We can learn a lot from each other, and I look forward to a dynamic exchange of ideas, expertise, and experiences between the two brand teams,” says Applbaum.

Double The Responsibility Applbaum will continue to serve as the global CMO of Patrón Spirits responsible for the company’s portfolio of luxury brands, including the world’s number one ultra-premium tequila. He directs all global integrated marketing efforts across creative, media, public relations, innovation, and experiential activation in more than 100 countries. Applbaum is an innovator with proven strategic, creative, and communications expertise in the fields of brand and retail marketing. He has been praised for his achievements in digital and social media, brand building, and product development including being recognized by Adweek as a “Brand Genius,” the magazine’s highest marketing honor, and the “Most Innovative CMO” by Business Insider. “With Lee working closely with John Burke, our global CMO, we have a seasoned team of leaders overseeing our iconic and leading-edge brands,” adds Madhavan. A Quest for Excellence Every aspect of the creation of Grey Goose is focused on crafting vodka of unmatched quality. The creation of Grey Goose begins with the very best ingredients from France – soft winter wheat from the Picardie region, le grenier à blé (the breadbasket of France) and spring water from Gensac-La-Pallue, that is naturally filtered through limestone. A unique distillation process brings out the naturally superior characteristics of these ingredients. From field-to-bottle, the expertise of the Grey Goose Cellar Master, François Thibault, ensures an unparalleled smoothness and exceptional taste to the connoisseur palate.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

105


Black Button Distilling Unveil Farm Project Black Button Distilling, Rochester NY’s first farm distillery, has announced the launch of Black Button Farm & Forestry, located on 19 acres on Route 32 in South Bristol, New York.

106

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


B lack B utton Farm & Forestry

The creation of Black Button Farm & Forestry is a monumental step for the Black Button Distilling mission and represents the culmination of a lifelong dream to grow the best possible ingredients to make the finest craft spirits in New York State. Located in the heart of the Finger Lakes, Black Button Farm & Forestry will grow juniper for Gin, white oak to make barrels for distilling, fresh herbs and spices, and organic honey for cocktails. All plants and trees will come from Broccolo Tree & Lawn Care, a Rochester, NY based business that has long supported New York State agriculture. “Whiskey making takes patience, years of training, hard work and a bit of luck,” said Jason Barrett, Black Button Distilling President, and Head Distiller. “So does farming, and by growing our own ingredients we ensure a constant supply of the highest quality ingredients to make the finest spirits in Western NY. I can’t think of a better way to spend my time than by connecting with the Finger Lakes – an area that has given me so much – and helping to cultivate a new agricultural tradition which will live on long after I am gone. As we grow this farm to its full potential, our spirits will become ever more ingrained in the place where we make them. And

that is the true definition of Black Button farm distilling,” he said. A Kickstarter campaign has been launched to help purchase the rootstock, saplings, tools, and equipment needed to make Black Button Farm & Forestry flourish. Contributions will not only support local sustainable family farming but will help to lower Black Button Distilling’s carbon footprint, help save the bees that pollinate all crops, and contribute to our local economy and culture. Several rewards are available in appreciation. Details about the campaign and how you can help are here. Black Button Distilling is the first grain-to-glass farm distillery in Rochester, NY since prohibition and one of the top 5 Craft Distilleries in the USA, according to USA Today’s 10Best 2016 and 2017 Readers’ Choice poll. Founded in 2012 and housed in a 9,000-square-foot space near Rochester’s historic Public Market, Black Button Distilling specializes in farm to still products, using unique and all-natural ingredients from local farms to craft 2,400 bottles of award-winning spirits each week, distributed in 12 states. Visit Black Button’s Distillery and Tasting Room located in Rochester, or their Tasting Room and Bottle Shop at 149 Swan Street, in Buffalo.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

107


108

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


R abbit Hole W elcomes New Mixologist

Rabbit Hole Welcomes New Mixologist Rabbit Hole, Louisville’s newest Bourbon distillery in the progressive Nulu community, has announced that it will welcome Brian Heese to its team as Bar Manager and mixologist for OverLook, the distillery’s on-site event space. In this new role, Heese will work with each of Rabbit Hole’s libations, in conjunction with Death & Co’s Proprietors LLC, to create innovative cocktails through the distillery’s unique partnership.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

109


R abbit Hole W elcomes N ew M ixologist

Transparency in Production Brian’s cocktails will follow Rabbit Hole’s transparent approach to spirits, sharing techniques and recipes to any who inquire rather than cloud them in Bourbon secrecy. Heese adheres to the simple philosophy that each guest should feel welcome and every experience should be uniquely personal. He holds a strong belief that cocktail development directly expresses one’s creativity and a deep expectation for quality service carries into his belief. Heese’s cocktails reflect his style and mindfulness through the utilization of fresh ingredients to create bold, seasonal libations. In For a Treat “We are thrilled to have Brian at the forefront of our cocktail program,” said Rabbit Hole Founder Kaveh Zamanian. “His creativity develops spectacular flavors while letting the honesty of our spirits shine through. Guests of OverLook are in for a treat and we can’t wait to raise a glass with them.” A Passion for Connection Hailing from the burgeoning food and beverage scene in Omaha, Nebraska, Heese brings 16 years of industry experience, eight of which include directly overseeing cocktail programs. His passion for the industry started at the age of 18 when he challenged himself to converse with people he didn’t know—a simple task that sparked his love for human interaction; one of the most crucial parts of bartending. Heese studied business management, entrepreneurship and advertising at both the University of Nebraska – Lincoln and the University of Nebraska – Omaha. A Modern Approach Kentucky-based Rabbit Hole is a brand dedicated to diversifying the spirits landscape with a modern approach to Whiskey. Born in 2012 by Founder & Whiskey Maker Kaveh Zamanian in the heart of Louisville’s Urban Bourbon Trail, Rabbit Hole unifies heritage techniques with innovative mash bills, creating unique expressions of American Whiskey redefining native Bourbon language. With four signature bottles – Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey, Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in PX Sherry Casks – Fingerprint Edition and London Dry Gin Kentucky Rye Barrel Finish – Fingerprint Edition – Rabbit Hole turns the Whiskey world on its tale, inviting imbibers to take a sip and dive down the rabbit hole, where “there’s no going back.” The 55,000 square foot distillery opened May 2018 in Louisville’s progressive Nulu neighborhood. The distillery showcases the identity, tradition, and legacy of Bourbon making in a whole new way. Visitors to the awe-inspiring new distillery will encounter an all-encompassing experience unlike any other distillery in the country.

110

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

111


Aberlour U nveils N ew C asg Annam h

Aberlour Unveils New Casg Annamh Speyside distillery, Aberlour, has released its latest premium Single Malt, Casg Annamh, to provide adventurous malt lovers with the ideal introduction to Sherry cask matured Whiskies. With its distinctive Sherry signature, the new expression highlights Aberlour’s commitment to choosing the best casks and maturing liquid of the highest quality to provide a deep and satisfying taste experience.

112

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


A berlour U nveils New C asg Annamh

Created in Small Batches Translating as ‘Rare Cask’ in Gaelic, Casg Annamh has been created in small batches from a limited number of carefully selected casks. Rare and hard to obtain, the Oloroso Sherry casks have a significant influence on the liquid and perfectly complement Aberlour’s distillate flavor, bringing sweet and rich notes. With fruity notes of tangy orange, glazed cherries, raisins and a hint of ginger on the nose, this is an expression that’s characterized by its sweetness on the palate. With notes of apple and cinnamon crumble and ripe peaches balanced with spicy notes of licorice and cloves. The finish is long and rich, resonating a fruitiness and a touch of dry spice.

The Proof is in the Drinking Aberlour Whisky is one firmly based in the experience, shunning any non-essential components and focusing solely on the flavor of its product. The Fleming family motto is ‘Let the deed show’ and this is certainly reflected in the Whisky itself. Indeed, instead of extolling the distinctive qualities of his Aberlour single malt, the brand’s founder, James Fleming remained true to his family’s motto since the days of Robert the Bruce, ‘Let the deed show.’ The proof is in the drinking.” The brand adds: “This saying simply translates as actions speak louder than our words’. James Fleming let his Whisky do the talking. It was his actions then, and the actions now of all our craftsmen that define the character of Aberlour.”

Carefully Selected Casks Graeme Cruickshank, Aberlour’s Master Distiller, commented: “Casg Annamh is a tribute to our craftsmen’s passion for sherry and their expertise when it comes to creating a rare and fine Single Malt.” “We carefully hand-pick our Oloroso Sherry casks from traditional Sherry bodegas in Spain, making sure the wood has exactly the right combination of aromatic qualities for Aberlour.” “The end result is a distinctively rich and fruity finish which we’re confident will offer something new and exciting for those looking to explore the Single Malt category.” Top-notch Credentials Aberlour’s premium and craft credentials are upheld by Casg Annamh, which comes with Graeme Cruickshank’s signature, a wax capsule bottle, and is part of a small batch production. It will be available to purchase at retailers across the globe, with an RRP of $70 (or local equivalent). According to Aberlour: “All our single malts are made with the best local ingredients of barley and soft water from the nearby mountain, Ben Rinnes. Our expertly crafted new spirit is usually matured for a minimum of 12 years both in the finest handpicked Oloroso Sherry butts and American Oak barrels.” “It’s this double cask maturation which subtly brings together the characteristics of each cask to create a truly rich and rewardingly complex range of single malts.”

Aberlour Unveils New Casg Annamh

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

113


Cognac Forging New Identity The words “COGNAC FRANCE,” in a timelessly elegant font, are written over a rich, earth-tone image in the exact shape of the Cognac region; these are the essential elements of the Cognac appellation’s new visual identity. This completely original, reimagined logo reminds us that this inimitable and worldfamous beverage is a product of one, and only one, place. Unveiled worldwide on November 14, the new visual identity will be used in all markets and on all communication materials of the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC), the association that represents the interests of all the people who grow, distill and export Cognac, and protects the integrity of their product worldwide.

114

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Cognac F orging New I dentity

Following the creation of a brand DNA in collaboration with French communications agency Bayadères, the Cognac growers and shippers selected Paris and New York City design studio BePoles to create their custom visuals. Vincent Chappe, President of the BNIC’s communications committee, says: “We have chosen an identity that is inspiring, like Cognac itself. The image of the region is both brilliant and down-to-earth at the same time. This new visual identity lets us tell consumers the wonderful story of this place and its people, who together, create the spirit in which we have such pride: cognac.” The new visual identity is guided and influenced heavily by the concept of creating an inspiring palette, with earth, copper, and light at the forefront of the experience. Spanning the Charente, Charente-Maritime, and parts of the Dordogne and Deux-Sèvres départements in southwestern France, the Cognac production area was officially delimited in 1909. Bordered by the ocean and traversed by the Charente River, Cognac’s open plains and rolling hills contains six Crus, characterized by clay and limestone soil. Clémentine Larroumet, director of Be-Poles Design Studio, drew inspiration from Cognac’s singular landscape and light. “I was also inspired by the traditions and craftsmanship of the people who create

Cognac, by their vines and the tools of their trade, especially the copper stills.” The studio took into account the high-end positioning that Cognac’s producers have established and translated their desire to place their terroir–a defining aspect of Cognac– and know-how at the heart of their identity. The choice of Garamond font for the words Cognac and France is a case in point: it was created by the famous typographer Claude Garamont in the sixteenth century, the same period in which distillation of Charente wine was begun for easy transportation to northern Europe. With what is now truly a worldwide reach, Cognac is exported to 160 countries, representing 98% of the world’s markets. The new identity targets all market sectors but with an emphasis on influencers in the trade and consumer channels. According to Claire Caillaud, BNIC Communications Director, “It will reinforce cognac’s image as the product of guaranteed provenance and authenticity, and highlight its distinguished place in France’s age-old traditions of winemaking and gastronomy.” Authenticity, terroir and a sense of place are what today’s consumers seek, and the new identity aims to address those key messages for the long-term.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

115


Tullamore D.E.W. Wins Top Award at IWSC Tullamore D.E.W. has won the Worldwide Whiskey Trophy at the International Wine & Spirits Competition for its 18-Year-Old Single Malt. A much-coveted award, the Worldwide Whiskey Trophy has not been won by an Irish Whiskey since 2009. Innovative Criteria Now in its 49th year, the annual IWSC was created by wine chemist Anton Massel, who, in 1969, had the idea of creating a wine and spirit competition which was based not just on organoleptic judgment but where all entries also had to undergo chemical analysis. John Quinn, Tullamore D.E.W. Global Brand Ambassador says: “It is wonderful to see this prestigious award being given to an Irish Whiskey and of course we’re over the moon that our own Tullamore DEW 18yo Single Malt has been chosen.” “The four cask finish (Bourbon, Oloroso Sherry, Port, and Madeira) gives it a gentle complexity with beautiful baked apple and dried fruit notes coming through.”

116

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Tullamore D.E.W. Wins Top Award

Increasing Success The Tullamore D.E.W. single malt range has already collected an impressive array of awards. Tullamore D.E.W. 18-Year-Old Single Malt was awarded a Master at the 2016 Global Irish Whiskey Masters competition. Tullamore D.E.W. 14-Year-Old Single Malt won Gold medals at the 2016 Global Irish Whiskey Masters and International Spirits Challenge Awards 2016. Sweet and Soft Tullamore D.E.W. is the world’s second largest Irish Whiskey brand with global sales of more than one million (9L) cases annually. Known the world over for its smooth flavor, Tullamore D.E.W. Irish Whiskey is triple distilled and a blend of all three types of Irish Whiskey – grain, malt & pot still. The sweet softness of grain Whiskey, soft spice from the pot still and fruitiness of the malt create a uniqueness of flavor that marks out Tullamore D.E.W. from all other Irish Whiskeys. Tullamore D.E.W.’s award-winning range includes Tullamore D.E.W. Original, Tullamore D.E.W. 12-Year-Old Special Reserve, Tullamore D.E.W. 15 Year Old Trilogy, Tullamore D.E.W. 14-Year-Old Single Malt, Tullamore D.E.W. 18-Year-Old Single Malt, Tullamore D.E.W. Cider Cask Finish, Tullamore D.E.W. Phoenix and Tullamore D.E.W. XO Rum Cask Finish. Built on Blend Commenting on another of its current campaigns, Beauty of the Blend, Tullamore says: “We are built on a blend. It runs through every bottle of our original triple blend Irish Whiskey.” “The Beauty of Blend is a celebration of our belief in the spirit of blend – from the original triple blend in our Irish whiskey to the blending of cultures, rooted in our historic association with Irish emigrants around the world.” “For generations, Ireland’s diaspora of 80 million people has built and blended around the world.” Uncannily Smooth The brand adds: “As the Whiskey favored by Irish immigrants since 1829, we believe in celebrating the blended world as a more interesting, eclectic place. Owing to the fact that 99.7% of people around the world are a blend of multiple ethnicities we have partnered with MyHeritage DNA to allow people to discover their own unique blend.“ Tullamore D.E.W. is a widely popular triple distilled, triple blend Whiskey that’s gained repute throughout the spirits world for what is an uncanny smoothness. Named after Daniel E. Williams, it is a Whiskey that gains its character by staying true to a decades-old recipe.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

117




P opular A lco h ol Trends

The Most Popular Alcohol Trends Seen so Far in 2018 Although trends are ultimately a fleeting thing, that doesn’t mean it isn’t any less exciting to see which new fads emerge as well as which old ones are revived. So far 2018 has been a mecca of fresh ideas and discoveries. Witnessing these cultural changes with a front-row seat is the alcohol industry. With introductions to never-before-seen or -tasted flavors and rejuvenated markets, it’s no wonder these are some of the hottest alcohol trends thus far in 2018. Savory Cocktails In 2018, bartenders swap out the sugar with salt to give more complex and sharper cocktails to their patrons. Vegetables no longer have to wait for a Bloody Mary or Gibson when there are options like carrot mimosas or kale martinis out there during happy hour. There’s a growing number of savory cocktails that push the boundaries as well with mixologists opting for more unique ingredients such as squid ink, beef, or peanut syrup.

Mexican Imported Beer The Marketing Insider called Mexican beer the new domestic. As younger demographics come to ample drinking age, their enthusiasm for non-U.S. flavors grows too—not to mention parts of the older U.S. demographics that remain loyal to their favorite Mexican lager. Craft breweries are taking advantage of this as many in the U.S. embark on their first ventures into Mexican-style brews.


Popular Alcohol T rends

New England IPAs While some American-style beers are faltering in popularity, New England IPAs are becoming more and more in demand. Also called “Hazy” IPAs, these brews are known for bold flavors and pungent aromas. When clarity in a beer was once the most sought-after, thought to be a sign of purity in the brew, that thinking’s turned into old news. New England IPAs get their nickname from not being exposed to the filtration or pasteurization process, resulting in hazy being the new trendy. Canned Wine Class in a can, canned wine keeps popping up more in grocery stores and markets. This is canned wine’s second time trying its hand at the market; 2016 saw a 125 percent increase in sales of aluminum-encased wine, resulting in $14.5 million in sales. That’s nothing two years later when industry sales bumped up to $28 million. Though it may fall under the category of trends dipped in irony, but the bulk of canned wine’s success is due to the approachability of it. No need to open a whole bottle of wine or feel obligated to finish it—no wasting a drop, right? They’re easier to transport during road trips and picnics as well. Wine in a can takes on a casual, summery new look that will surely ease into our lives and hands eventually. Ultra-Premium Tequila and Mezcal Respect for Tequila and Mezcal grows steady in 2018, with an escalation not in premium Tequilas like 1800 but instead ultra-premium Tequilas and Mezcals. With new buyers and plans for expansion, it looks like this superpremium side of Mezcals and Tequilas isn’t going to be slowing down anytime soon. Sipping ultra-premium Tequilas like George Clooney and Rande Gerber’s brand Casamigos or Pierde Almas Mezcal (which was recently purchased by industry leader Diageo) is a great way to start yourself on this journey.

this line of brews exposes the taste buds to a more “adult” flavor, as if the drink’s gone through a maturing process. Either way, you either love or hate a sour beer. From the looks of it, most consumers love this 2018 trend. “Compost” Cocktails Much less unsanitary than it sounds, compost cocktails aren’t only trending, they’re helping cut down on waste. Mixologists gather any fruit rinds, leftover herb stems, and other kitchen scraps that would otherwise be thrown out and create lovely cocktail garnishes. This leads to more creative flavors in the drink themselves, as a bartender attempts to match the flavors of a cocktail with crushed lavender leaves and lime peels. It’s sustainability served in a glass—how “2018” is that? Cannabis Beer With cannabis’ legalization in the U.S., beermakers are getting the ball rolling on combining two of young people’s favorite things: weed and brews. Bars in big metropolises are slowly adding beer to their menus that partner a little high with your buzz, though non-high-inducing CBD-infused beers and drinks aren’t anything new. The cannabis industry’s global commercial market’s projection should reach $31.4 billion by the year 2021, and smart brewmasters are taking advantage of this market shift, sustaining the trend. Infusing beer with cannabis hasn’t been put to the test in many places so far this year, but with more and more success coming out of brewers’ batches, it won’t be at all surprising to see these high-drunk hybrids popping up by the end of 2018.

Tasting Rooms Nowadays, drinkers find themselves growing curious about not just what they’re drinking but the process that brought the drink to their hands. This has resulted in breweries, distilleries, and wineries alike either opening or expanding on tasting rooms. Pop-up satellite tastings are becoming more common as well—a perfect opportunity for a growing operation to expose its product without the money and commitment required to have a fully functional and permanent space. These tasting rooms add an experience to what drinkers are consuming, strengthening the bond they have between the spirit, wine, or beer that much more. Sour Beer The 2018 year remains kind to the puckered side of the palate, as sour beers become a staple in any beer connoisseur’s flight. Sour brewskis, when done right, create a different kind of beer experience; arguably, the wild yeast and natural bacteria in

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

121




Craft of the Cask How to Make or Break Whiskey Aging with the Barrel As Whiskey has resurfaced as one of the hottest, fastest-growing spirits, it seems that casks and barrel-aging itself has grown almost exponentially on top of that: barrel-aged beer and barrel-aged mixed cocktails are now more the norm than not, almost as if it is a new craft standard. But how much can simply sitting in a cask really do for the drink? It’s a nice value-add, sounds good in a name, or creates a nice rich, golden tint—something to make it seem a bit more complex or refined. As it turns out, however, it’s really not that simple: The cask is an expensive, absolutely critical component to properly lead a Whiskey to its best form. It’s the make-or-break. Indeed, the type

124

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

of cask and all of its metrics are crucial, so much more so than the age of a Whiskey. While there might be a status or “wow” factor surrounding the sight of a 30-year-old label, that by no means equates to twice as good—let alone any better, if not worse—than the 15-year label next to it. Put simply, if it wasn’t aged properly for 30 years, it could very well be entirely undrinkable. So how do the


The craft of the cask

creators of the craft so carefully select their casks? As the nuance of choice could reach far deeper than most of us have time to read on, we’ll take a look at the four major considerations that ultimately control the creation of some of the best Whiskey in the world: cask size, type of wood, charring, and cask reuse, and how they must all work symphoniously. Size The size of the cask is just as important as it is difficult to figure out: there is no definitive measurement or standard. Generally, however, there are three different size ranges to choose from, selected based on the desired extraction rate, or the rate at which the Whiskey attains its oak characteristic. Given, extraction rate will be expedited in smaller casks, with a smaller liquid volume to wood surface ratio. The largest of barrels are those over 400 liters: Butt, Port Pipe, Puncheon, and Madeira Drum, which account for the majority of barrels used for American Whiskeys. Medium casks (200–400 liters, ASB, Bourbon, Barrique, Cognac, and Bordeaux) balance a faster extraction rate with oxidation and maturation. The smallest of the casks, generally less than 200 liters and including quarter cask and blood tub, need to be monitored the closest, as their extraction rates can be exceptionally high, quickly leading to over-oaked spirits. Type of Wood First and foremost, oak is the predominant wood type used for aging Whiskey and is the only permissible type in aging Scotch and American Bourbon. Other wood types, like hickory and maple, are not out of the question, but hardly have a foothold. From here, trunks of oak 70–200 years is ideal (if not absolutely necessary), depending on the origin of the oak. The harvested wood must then be cut into particular and precise patterns so as to create a leakproof cask. And while parts of the caskmanufacturing process are being automated as with everything else, the manufacture is, to this day, still done by hand. The two main types of oak used are American and European. American oak tends to offer more notes of vanilla and soft caramel, due to the high levels of monogalloyl glucose present in the wood. American oak can be harvested at about 70 years of maturation. On the other hand, European oak must grow for at least 100 years longer than American oak, and is more tannin-heavy, lending additional notes of spice and, due to its higher levels of gallic acid, may be a bit more bitter. Given these potent characteristics, European casks can act quickly and very powerfully, dominating the Whiskey in short order. And, if the cask is too strong or the Whiskey is left too long, there’s no fix for this. Charring and Toasting As the wood is dead at this point, the barrels must go through a sort of resurrection, preparing the wood for flavor extraction. Heated to 200 degrees Fahrenheit, the wood

on the inside of the cask is burned for 3–5 minutes, reactivating the wood’s ability to lend flavor compounds with the liquids that come into contact with it. Charcoal, moreover, extracts a lot of the tangy, undesirable compounds present. The barrels can go through either a charring or a toasting, depending on the desired characteristics. A toasting of the barrel is a more mild alteration, which results in blackened but smooth cask walls and notes of vanilla. Charring, on the other hand, burns the wood so much so to leave it broken up about an eighth of an inch deep, resulting in a darker, smokier, more caramel-inclined Whiskey. Charring is most prevalent in Bourbon aging, as it imparts these heavier notes. Cask Reuse and Secondary Maturation The more that a cask is used, the less flavor that it will release into the Whiskey. However, this can be combated slightly by another char—barrels are lightly cleaned and reburned, allowing more vanilla and caramel flavor potential to be released from the barrels. But this can only be done about three to four times before much of the wood flavor is permanently lost. Some barrels, however, may find a second life and can be rejuvenated and repurposed to a different type of aging, such as a Bourbon barrel for Scotch Whisky. This can add another 20–30 years to the barrel’s total life. A more recent practice, with roots only stemming about 20 years, is “finishing,” or secondary maturation in a new cask, or cask reuse solely for repurpose. This concept was first introduced by David Stewart, a distiller at Balvenie, which led to the creation of the Balvenie Classic, now known as the Balvenie Double Wood. Aged first in American oak and transferred to Sherry butts, it kicked off what was to be a highly adopted aging trend across far more than just Whiskey. This, of course, adds yet another important but complicated element, as secondary maturation is not yet fully understood. For now, it is, realistically, still much a product of trial and error, and in conjunction, there are many more considerations (or relative unknowns). For instance, secondary maturation usually takes place in a cask that has been reused one or more times. Given, the previous spirit’s characteristics must complement the Whiskey aging as it will inevitably impart its flavors with the barrel, as well as the overall age of the cask itself across spirits, its char level, and size. After already completing a painstaking process, to achieve a fine Whiskey a final round of poor finishing can do significant, irreparable damage. A fan of Whiskey or not, the process through which Whiskey must go is one that certainly should be recognized and regarded. It takes significant time, careful calculation, and incredible dedication to create even just one once-matured batch of Whiskey. A fascinating process to ponder whilst enjoying a pour, if I may say so myself.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

125


Rezvani Beast X Designed to be a true worldly competitor for the track, and a serious supercar on the road, the Rezvani Beast X produces 700 horsepower and features dual Borg Warner high-performance turbochargers, forged pistons and valves, and strengthened engine internals.

VISUALLY STUNNING DESIGN WITH EXTREME PERFORMANCE. www.rezvanimotors.com


DETAILED SPECIFICATIONS 0-60 MPH in 2.7 Seconds Rezvani / Cosworth 2.5L Turbo 600 Horsepower 6-Speed Manual Gearbox Sequential Automatic Optional Carbon fiber Body Weight: 1,750 Pounds (750KG) Length: 165.2 Inches (4,145 mm) Width: 80.1 Inches (1,981 mm) Wheelbase: 92.3 Inches (2,345 mm 2 Year Unlimited Mile Warranty

600 HP | 0-60 MPH IN 2.7 SECONDS | 1,750 LBS | REZVANI / COSWORTH 2.5L TURBO | STARTING AT $325,000


Madeira, Time captured in a Bottle The Remarkable Influence of International Trade The island of Madeira has been producing and exporting its namesake wine virtually since the Portuguese discovered it in 1419. Since then, Madeira’s location in the middle of important trade routes meant the success of its wines mirrored the worldwide geopolitical situation. The fortified wine’s fortunes have soared during times of peace, prosperity, and free trade and plummeted during conflict and international upheaval.

128

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Time captured in a Bottle

A sailor, ordered to dispose of the “spoiled” wine, took a sip and found it delightful In fact, it was international trade that made Madeira wine as we know it today, creating the characteristics that distinguish it from other fortified spirits. European merchant vessels, laden with wine from Madeira, rounded the Cape of Good Hope, intent upon trading for the riches offered by the Far East and Indian subcontinent. Some of the cargo, tossed by the shifting seas and heated by the equatorial sun, was transformed – aerated, aged, vaporized and condensed – during its long journey, went unsold. A sailor, ordered to dispose of the “spoiled” wine, took a sip and found it delightful. The journey so improved the wine, that it soon was being sent on round trips to the tropics simply to undergo the process before being returned to grateful drinkers in Europe. Aided by an alliance with England, Portugal’s wine exports, to the detriment of French vintages, found acceptance throughout the British Empire and other far-flung markets. This, of course, did not sit well with France, and Napoleon attempted to blockade the lucrative trade between England and Portugal. Faced with limited trade routes and possible spoilage, Madeirans fortified their wine with spirits in an effort to prolong its life. They soon perfected this blending, and soldiers and sailors serving the British crown took home a taste for the stuff. Drawn by the profitable trade, English merchants joined their Portuguese brethren on the island and quickly came to dominate Madeira production and export. Around the same time, winemakers perfected a way to replicate the wine’s tropical sea voyages that so intensified its flavor and nuances.

English colonists renewed Madeira’s popularity in Europe Before the American Revolution, Madeira was a staple on the tables of wealthy, influential colonists. Thomas Jefferson sang its virtues. Colonial Bostonians rioted when a shipload was seized by the British authorities. The Founding Fathers celebrated the signing of the Declaration of Independence and George Washington’s inauguration with toasts of Madeira. But during and following the war for independence, many colonists loyal to the crown returned to England, bringing their appreciation for Madeira with them and renewing the wine’s popularity in Europe. Unfortunately, the expanding market, the re-emergence of French wine following the Napoleonic Wars, and an economic downturn, prompted many Madeira producers to cut corners. Quality suffered. The American Civil War, 18611865, further depressed the formerly insatiable U.S. demand. The opening of the Suez Canal a few years later made journeys around the Cape – and passage through Madeira – unnecessary for ships bound for India and the Orient. Odium and Phylloxera delivered one-two punch to Madeira production during the latter half of the 1800s. Just as a Germany affinity for the wine was heralding Madeira’s renaissance in the early 20th century, World War I again depressed demand on the Continent. Madeira never really recovered until 1979 when the island instituted quality controls throughout the process from vine planting to bottling. Madeira 1795


A Taste of History

Jack Daniel’s Release Bottled-in-Bond

130

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


A Taste of History

Jack Daniel’s Release Bottled-in-Bond The Jack Daniel Distillery is honoring its commitment to quality with the release of a new 100-proof Jack Daniel’s Bottled-in-Bond Tennessee Whiskey. Jack Daniel’s Bottled-in-Bond is a global travel retail exclusive, now available at select airports worldwide. A Taste of History A permanent line extension in the Jack Daniel’s Family of Brands, Jack Daniel’s Bottled-in-Bond will be available in major airports and other international points of departure and arrival around the world, making it a perfect gift for any enthusiast. “Whiskey-making in the 1800’s too often produced a hodge-podge of sub-par, counterfeit and even dangerous spirits. Whiskey drinkers at times weren’t sure of what exactly they were drinking or being served,” said Jack Daniel’s Master Distiller Jeff Arnett.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

131


A Taste of History

“To bring a high level of safety and consistency to American whiskeys, the United States Congress passed the Bottled in Bond Act which certified the quality of Whiskey carrying that designation. It had to be aged at least four years and bottled at 100 proof at one distillery during a single season.” “The Bottled in Bond Act was passed in 1897. Mr. Jack began putting his Tennessee Whiskey in the now-familiar square bottle two years earlier in 1895. This new offering replicates those rules that were set more than 120 years ago.” Rich and Smooth Tennessee Whiskey Every drop of Jack Daniel’s is made in Lynchburg, Tennessee, charcoal mellowed and then matured in new American oak barrels crafted by its own coopers. At 100 proof, Jack Daniel’s Bottled-in-Bond is a bold Tennessee Whiskey with rich flavors complemented by classic Jack Daniel’s smoothness. “One of Jack Daniel’s most famous sayings was, ‘Every day we make it, we’ll make it the best we can,’ and the distillery in Lynchburg has been making the iconic Tennessee Whiskey that way every day for over 150 years. In many ways, the introduction of Jack Daniel’s Bottled-in-Bond

is a step back into the early days of the distillery when Jack Daniel was pioneering the craft of making Tennessee Whiskey,” said Marshall Farrer, senior vice president and managing director of Brown-Forman Global Travel Retail. “We think so much of this Whiskey that we are making it a permanent member of the Jack Daniel’s Family of Brands – a cautious step we take only with the most special of new products.” A Luscious Flavor Profile The rich, bold, 100-proof Tennessee Whiskey has an aroma of caramel with mild hints of banana and balanced caramel, vanilla and toasted oak flavors with a full-bodied mouthfeel leaving a creamy, warm finish. Jack Daniel’s Bottled-inBond hits shelves this summer in select duty-free outlets in a 1-liter bottle size and will be offered at a suggested retail price of $37.99. About Jack Daniel’s Officially registered by the U.S. Government in 1866 and based in Lynchburg, Tenn., the Jack Daniel Distillery, Lem Motlow, proprietor, is the oldest registered distillery in the United States and is on the National Register of Historic Places.

Jack Daniel’s Release Bottled-in-Bond

132

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


A Taste of History

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

133


O ld Li q uors Collection

COGNAC 1805 A.E. DOR Très Vieille, Soleil d’Austerlitz, Grande Champagne BATTLE OF AUSTERLITZ 1805 was the year of the Battle of Austerlitz, also known as the Battle of the Three Emperors. This battle was one of Napoleon’s greatest victories. The Cognac Soleil d’Austerlitz dates from 1805. The content comes from a 3.5-liter bottle of grande champagne from the 1805 harvest. From this demijohn, only 3 bottles were filled. AE Dor has kept one and one went to the French president. This one was auctioned off at Sotheby’s in Paris in 1999. The alcohol percentage is remarkable: 30%. PRESTIGIOUS VINTAGES The most precious cognacs sleep in a secret cellar called “The Paradise”, proudly displaying their prestigious vintages and heritage. Jewels of the house of A.E.DOR, whose origin is generally prior to the famous phylloxera, that is to say, 1874.

134

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Old L iquors Collection

MAISON A.E. DOR This highly regarded company was established in 1858 by Jean Baptiste Dor, a doctor living in Jarnac. But it was his son Amedée Eduard Dor who thirty years later named the company AE Dor. It was his life-long passion to strive for high-quality cognacs and he arduously searched for the very best and old cognacs in the region. It earned him the nickname by his contemporaries: “l’Antiquaire du Cognac”. After very long aging, up to seventy years, he transferred them to Dame-Jeannes which he sealed with wax. They were kept in his Paradis, locked behind wrought iron gates. These are now the great treasure of the AE Dor company for which they are famous. Although they have moved to a newer warehouse, this old Paradis in the center of Jarnac still exists and forms the heart of the AE Dor company, from which they are able to make their renowned vintage cognacs. From 1922 till 1972 the company was managed by Jean Baptiste’s son-in-law, who in 1951 received permission to sell his cognacs below 40% ABV. Noël was able to prove that his cognacs had reached this lower alcohol level by pure evaporation alone and until today A.E. Dor is the only company allowed to do so. After 1972 AE Dor became the property of the Bénédictine group of the Legrand family. During this period the company was led by Philippe Mitterand, brother of the former French president, François Mitterand. The Bénédictine company, however, showed little interest in the brand and it was very fortuitous that in 1982 Jacques Rivière, assumedly urged by his wife Odile Rivière, decided to buy the company. While Odile did not know the trade, she learned very fast and from the best to become a top-notch cellar master, arguably one of the best in her time and highly respected by her colleagues. She instantly recognized the immense treasure that was lying in the cellars, going back to the pre-phylloxera era, that is to say: of before 1874. Within a decade she made her name. Sadly she died young in a car crash in 1992. But her legacy is famous and people around the world search after the blends by her hand, notably the Vieille Reserve cognacs numbers 9, 10 and 11. After Odile’s tragic death, Jacques Rivière decided to continue her work in honor of her achievement. She almost single-handedly managed to revive a brand that seemed to have been left to die. Soon after, his son Pierre-Antoine Rivière joined him and together with Béatrice Coussy as cellar master they now still make grande cognacs, despite the fact that in 2015 they have become part of Unicognac. AE Dor, first of all, is a merchant, but throughout the times they also almost always have had vineyards of their own. Around 25 acres and they are mostly in the grande and petite champagne districts with a little bit in the fins bois. The yields of these farmlands are distilled by a related distillery in Chateauneuf-sur-Charente. They also have almost 200 acres under contract. Besides blends, they make a fair amount of grande champagne, petite champagne, and fine champagne cognacs. You can find AE Dor in some of the best restaurants throughout the world. Their famous cognacs are the numbers 1 till 6: no. 1 Age d’Or (1893), no. 2 Excellence (1889), no. 3 Prince Impérial (1875), no. 4 Napoléon III (1858), no. 5 Louis Philippe (1840). An 1805 Soleil d’Austerlitz of 30% ABV and an 1811 Roi de Rome of 31% ABV (Fins bois). The numbers 9 till 11, grande champagnes blended by Odile Rivière and the numbers 6 till 8, grande champagnes blended by Jacques Rivière. www.oldliquors.com

COGNAC 1805 A.E. DOR An extremely rare bottle of which only 3 bottles exist.

€ 37.500

Vintage 1805 Alcohol 30,0 % Button Glass shoulder button Fill level Top shoulder Maturation Très Vieille Packaging No casing Region Grande Champagne Size 70 cl

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

135


Coppercraft Relaunc h es Rye W h iskey

Coppercraft Distillery Relaunches Rye Whiskey Coppercraft Distillery, the award-winning artisan spirits distiller based in Holland, Mich., announced today it is re-launching its Rye Whiskey into the market after a two-year hiatus. Coppercraft Rye will be available year-round at retailers, bars, and restaurants throughout Michigan.

Perfect for Cocktail Crafting Comprised of 95 percent Rye and five percent barley, Coppercraft’s Rye Whiskey is bottled at 90 proof. Beginning with hints of cocoa and malt followed by peppercorn spice, Coppercraft Rye finishes smooth, with a hint of sweetness, perfect for mixing a Manhattan, Sazarac or other cocktails. “Our distilling team worked hard to build on the success of our previous award-winning Rye Whiskey, and created this new product by masterfully blending our Rye Whiskey, distilled in Holland, Mich., with hand-selected found Rye,” said Brandon Joldersma, general manager of Coppercraft. “Our artisan blending techniques create the best tasting Rye Whiskey possible, and enable us to produce the volume that we need to serve the growing number of fans who have been asking for this product to return.” Gaining Popularity Like Bourbon and Whiskey, Rye continues to gain popularity and market share in the spirits industry. From 2009 to 2016, Rye Whiskey volumes increased by 778 percent, according to the Distilled Spirits Council. Since 2009, Rye Whiskey volumes jumped from 88,000 cases to nearly 775,00 cases in 2016, translating to a 900 percent jump in revenue from slightly more than $15 million in supplier revenues in 2009 to nearly $160 million in 2016.

136

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


Coppercraft R elaunc hes Rye Whiskey

Brandon Joldersma, general manager of Coppercraft

Inspired by Heritage Every bottle of Coppercraft Premium Spirits is a tribute to the American Craftsmen. We build upon the legacy of our West Michigan tradition–the makers and manufacturers; creators and curators; designers and developers. We bring together grain, oak and time to craft the finest premium spirits. Every detail is considered in what we craft and blend, and how you experience it. Coppercraft spirits include Rum, Gin, Vodka, citrus Vodka, Whiskeys and Bourbon that can be found throughout Michigan. According to Coppercraft: “Coppercraft Distillery handcrafts premium, small-batch spirits using traditional ingredients, grain, water, oak and time, we expertly pair them with a delicious menu.” “Our Holland and Saugatuck locations serve a full palette of food and drinks.” “We have a certain way of doing things – The Coppercraft Way. It is who we are, where we come from, and how we craft our spirits and your experience. We invest heavily into ingredients and always our spirits the time they need.”

selection of American Craft Blended Whiskies, delivering what is only the finest of handcrafted and aged Bourbons and Rye bottlings. “Our goal is to create a legacy that embraces hard work and celebrates our community of family and friends. We love what we do. We have fun doing it. We are proud to be a leading New American Craft Distillery and we are eager to share the Coppercraft experience with you.”

A Commitment to Mature Expressions This is a brand that takes pride in its commitment to providing only the best and most mature expressions. In order to expand their range, Coppercraft has partnered with legendary Master Blender, Nancy Fraley, who has used timetested Cognac making styles to allow Coppercraft to make their new

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

137


A rtisanal I talian li q ueur

Don Ciccio & Figli Opens New Distillery and Bar Artisanal Italian liqueur producer, Don Ciccio & Figli, has announced construction on a new production facility on “Distillery Row” in the Ivy City neighborhood of Washington, D.C.

The new space will offer tours that include a larger production and aging area, as well as a tasting room, creating an intimate environment to educate consumers on DC&F’s premium artisanal portfolio. A full bar, aptly entitled Bar Sirenis named after sirens heard on the streets of the Amalfi Coast, will provide guests with the opportunity to enjoy specialty cocktails.

138

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

A Blend of Classic Styles Designed by renowned architect Mike Asbacher, CDS and designers Allen Studios, the technical and artistic crew behind DC-based bars such as the Tilt Side Bar and Truxton Inn, the distillery and Bar Sirenis will tie together two architectural components – an art deco style with industrial elements highlighting the functional stages of the production


A rtisanal I talian li queur

process. The space will incorporate Italian ceramic tiles customdesigned by Giovanni De Maio Ceramiche in Fisciano, Salerno. The art deco aesthetic is inspired by Italian master architect Gio Ponti, whose Parco die Principi hotel in Sorrento remains a world-famous example of mid-century art deco design. Paying Tribute to Tradition A fourth-generation distiller from the Amalfi Coast, Francesco Amodeo first opened the DC-based Don Ciccio & Figli in 2012 with a desire to reproduce and distribute the artisanal Italian recipes of his ancestors. The portfolio consists of premium artisanal spirits including amari, aperitivi and cordials, and includes their flagship Amaro delle Sirene, C3 Carciofo, Limoncello, and the newest addition to the portfolio, Cerasum Aperitivo, among other products. Each historical liqueur recipe is carefully re-constructed – and at times slightly adapted – using the original recipes handed down by Amodeo’s family, and which for decades were used to create small batch liqueurs enjoyed by locals on the Amalfi coast. At the Heart of the Scene With the construction of a new site for the Don Ciccio & Figli distillery, consumers will have the opportunity to tour the production facility and partake in an intimate tasting. Guests who purchase a bottle from the DC&F portfolio will receive a cocktail demonstration at Bar Sirenis, showcasing how to best use the product, as well as have their cocktail photographed in a bespoke photo booth. “We’re excited to be moving to the heart of the burgeoning distillation scene in

Washington, D.C.,” said Founder and Master Blender, Francesco Amodeo. “We really wanted to create a memorable educational experience for consumers, and the establishment of the new distillery and tasting room, along with Bar Sirenis, will enable us to do this.” “The new facility pays homage to our Italian roots while recognizing we are a DC-based company, and consumers will now have the opportunity to experience first-hand what makes our products so unique.” With a burgeoning craft distillery scene emerging, Don Ciccio & Figli is the latest establishment to arrive on D.C.’s Distillery Row, joining a handful of other artisan distillers including One Eight Distilling; New Columbia Distillers; Republic Restoratives; Jos. A Magnus; and Cotton & Reed. Small Batches and Traditional Recipes Don Ciccio & Figli’s tradition dates to 1883, when Amodeo’s great-grandfather, Vincenzo Amodeo, began making liqueur out of a small house in Atrani, on the Amalfi Coast. The distillery enjoyed more than 45 years of success before shuttering during World War II. In 1951 Vincenzo’s son, Francesco “Don Ciccio” Amodeo, built a new distillery farther down the coast in the Furore region. On Nov. 23, 1980, a massive earthquake hit the region, destroying the distillery and the surrounding lemon and fruit trees. Today, the Amodeo family tradition has been re-established in Washington, D.C., where Founder and Master Blender Francesco Amodeo produces his family’s liqueurs in small batches using traditional recipes and methods, providing a refreshing glimpse of the past with a nod to the future.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

139


William G rant & Sons | portfolio

“Spirit Dad Away!” With the new expressions from the William Grant & Sons portfolio of premium spirits, Old Liquors Magazine pulled together a nice variety of bottles to “spirit dad away” on his holiday. For those who want to treat dad to an armchair adventure, consider these gifts bottled and ready! Island Dreams? Try the Tullamore D.E.W. Rum Cask Finish released this spring, which offers a hint of the islands. Further cementing the brand’s reputation as a leader in Irish Whiskey innovation, Tullamore D.E.W. Caribbean Rum Cask Finish (43% ABV, SRP $25.99–$28.99/750 ml bottle) is incredibly smooth and rich, exuding notes of vanilla and oak overlaid with citrus, ripe bananas, and delicate spice. The beautiful golden-amber glow brings you on a journey to the heart of the Caribbean as hints of dates and raisins give a long and sweet finish, a truly exceptional flavor. The label hints at an old-time nautical map and the liquid is simply delicious. Find more information here: www.tullamoredew.com.

140

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4


W illiam Grant & Sons | portfolio

The Spirit of Speyside (Scotland!) Dufftown in the Speyside region of Scotland, home to The Balvenie, the most handcrafted single malt Scotch Whisky, offers its next single vintage bottling of The Balvenie Peat Week Aged 14 Years (2003 Vintage). The bottling is the second iteration of the series, following the 2017 release of the 2002 Vintage, and is an expression that reimagines the notion of a classic Speysidestyle Whisky. The Balvenie’s Peat Week range pays special homage to a time when peated Whiskies were commonly produced by distilleries across Speyside. Throughout the 1930s, ’40s, and ’50s, The Balvenie utilized locally sourced peat to dry barley processed at the distillery’s traditional malt floor, which is still in use today. As society welcomed the new millennium, a time when very few Speyside distilleries were using peat in production any longer, The Balvenie distilled a batch of heavily peated malt, laid down to mature at the distillery in Dufftown, Scotland. Since then, the distillery has dedicated one week each year, aptly named Peat Week, to using 100 percent peated barley in its production. The result is a different style of The Balvenie liquid with enhanced smoky notes. Velvety and round to taste with the peat smoke balancing citrus flavors, oaky vanilla, and blossom honey, The Balvenie Peat Week (2003 Vintage) is a single vintage bottling, making

it limited and rare by nature. The non-chill filtered expression is bottled at 48.3% ABV, with 3,000 cases slated for the U.S. The Balvenie Peat Week Aged 14 Years (2003 Vintage) is now available in the U.S. (SRP $99.00 per 750ml bottle). For more information, please visit www. thebalvenie.com. Tropical Nicaragua Flor de Caña is enriched by the unique properties of the San Cristobal volcano, the tallest and most active in Nicaragua. The fertility of the soil, the enriched water, and the volcanic climate to which the barrels are exposed during the aging process contribute in creating the singularly smooth character of this delicious and wellbalanced Rum. Flor de Caña Centenario 25 Year is an ultra-premium Rum featuring an elegant deep amber color. Named “2017 Best Rum of the Year” by the International Rum Conference in Madrid, it has an aroma that integrates vanilla, wood, and dark cocoa notes, which mingle smoothly on the palate with fruity, nutty, and caramel notes, with a pleasant and long-lasting touch of sweetness. Centenario 25 Year is crafted for spirits connoisseurs who appreciate the highest quality. If your dad loves Rum, this ultra-premium expression will make the perfect Father’s Day gift. (SRP $144.99) Visit www.flordecana.com.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

141


William G rant & Sons | portfolio

Viva Mexico To produce the best Tequila in the world, the founders of Milagro Tequila found an estate in the Jalisco highlands where they could grow and harvest their own agave. They scoured the country and found a master distiller with generations of knowledge who was tired of being told to cut corners, and they worked with him to create a liquid that was fresh, crisp, and agaveforward. Finally, they decided that a drink of this quality deserved a bottle that was as handcrafted and painstakingly made—just like the liquid inside. Milagro SBR: As one of the world’s leading Tequila brands, Milagro’s Single Barrel Reserve, aged in French and American oak barrels, is perfect for Tequila lovers and is most

142

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

appreciated and enjoyed as a sipping Tequila. It is packaged in striking handcrafted glass bottles with an agave featured within the center. If your dad loves Tequila as much as he loves collectable items, surprise him with this on Father’s Day. Milagro SBR Silver (SRP: $52.99): Fine, sipping Tequila with rich, complex flavors, and is perfect when accompanied by a sprig of mint as a garnish. Milagro SBR Reposado (SRP: $56.99): aged after distillation in American and French oak barrels, yielding a smooth, complex spirit that is a perfect balance of agave and oak. Milagro SBR Añejo (SRP: $98.99): an intriguing mixture of sweetness and oak that’s smooth and fullbodied. Visit www.milagrotequila.com.


W illiam Grant & Sons | portfolio

RATHER STAY STATESIDE?

How about these options filled with American pride. Good ol’ Americana Consider including Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum, now available with the same great taste and a fresh new look. Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum (ABV of 46% and an SRP of $21.99) was created to honor Norman “Sailor Jerry” Collins, a Navy vet who built his rep inking soldiers and sailors in WWIIera Honolulu where he established his legendary tattoo parlor and became the undisputed father of American old-school tattooing. Sailor Jerry Spiced Rum embodies the “All-American” spirit and unapologetic attitude of the Rum’s namesake who was noted for saying “my work speaks for itself.” Visit www. sailorjerry.com.

New York State of Mind Choose Hudson Whiskey, an iconic American Whiskey since the first of its distinctive bottles were shipped in 2006. Hudson Whiskey is the first legal distilled Whiskey distilled in New York state since Prohibition, and its signature expression, Baby Bourbon, is also the first-ever New York State–produced Bourbon. A true craft Whiskey, it sources 90 percent of its grains from local New York family farmers. Hudson Whiskey continues to bring its thinking to other American craft distillers across the country, working to inspire, reshape the laws, and raise the quality bar for the entire craft spirits movement. Hudson Whiskeys have an ABV of 46% with an SRP $49.99 (750ml) and include a range of diverse and innovative marques including Hudson Baby Bourbon. For more information, visit www.HudsonWhiskey.com.

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

143


G reat Manh attan Cocktail Bar | AT TABOY

Great Manhattan Cocktail Bars, Attaboy on the Lower East Side Speakeasy-like bar with innovative cocktails, rich history, and cozy atmosphere NEW YORK – Some bars and restaurants boldly make their presence known. You know the ones I’m talking about. Big, bright neon signs. Inyour-face advertisements on television or billboards. Or perhaps they sell thousands of T-shirts and baseball caps featuring their name or logo or some kind of cute animal or tree or another whimsical symbol

144

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

thousands of people wear thinking they’re the only ones who know about this secret, special place. Then there’s the opposite approach. These bars and restaurants often have no signs. They may even be a little off the beaten path. And they most certainly don’t have a large retail store selling merchandise promoting their brand or logo.


A

Great Manhattan Cocktail Bar | AT TABOY

That’s because they don’t even have a logo. Some of these bars bill themselves as “Speakeasies,” the name given to clandestine drinking establishments during Prohibition in the 1920s when the sale of alcohol was banned in the United States. These “hidden” bars often have secret entrances or storefronts promoting another business. You have to know where to go to find these secret bars. But in the age of the internet, there are no secrets. There are no entrances that can’t be found.

Hidden in Plain Sight That’s why some bars like Attaboy on Manhattan’s Lower East Side take things one step further. There’s no sign. There’s simply the letters “AB” taped on a gray steel door next to an old store window hidden behind a black wire mesh grate. On the window, in all capital letters, are the words “TAILORS” and “ALTERATIONS” and the initials “M&H” in between them. When you go to open the door, you can’t get inside. That’s because the door is locked. And even when someone answers the door, there’s no guarantee you can go straight in. That’s because this legendary cocktail bar is often full to capacity. Now, you have two choices. Come back another night or put your name on the waiting list, which sounds formal but simply involves giving your cell phone number to the guy who answers the door. He’ll text you when there’s a free a seat at the bar. Or you can just wait outside. A few minutes or an hour or so later—depending on how busy it is that night at Attaboy—your phone buzzes and in you go. All of this might seem like a big hassle. But once inside and seated at the

long, narrow bar, it’s well worth the wait, especially once you have one of their outstanding, handcrafted cocktails History of Excellence Attaboy has a loyal following that dates back to the legendary bar that used to be at the same location on Eldridge Street—Milk & Honey. First opened in 2000, Milk & Honey helped spearhead the craft cocktail craze in New York City that blossomed around the world soon after the turn of the century. Two years later, Milk & Honey opened a second bar in London’s Soho neighborhood. Even people who never went to Milk & Honey in New York have heard of the bar. The New York Times put it in a May 2012 article about the opening of Attaboy, the bar’s Eldridge Street location “is still regarded as near holy ground by cocktail mavens.” Like Attaboy, part of the buzz about Milk & Honey had to do with its clandestine nature. There never was a tailor at the location, despite the words painted on the bar’s window. The “M&H” (abbreviation for Milk & Honey) was intentionally painted on the window to look old. The bar also required reservations. Not surprisingly, it was an instant hit. But the bar’s owner, Sasha Petraske, wasn’t trying to be cheeky. He took such steps since he was trying to make sure the focus was on the drinks rather than becoming the next hip hot spot. “The service I’m offering is an idiotfree environment safe from celebrity sycophants and frat boys who read the listings in Time Out,” Petraske said in an interview with The New York Times in 2000. “Unfortunately, hiding my bar was the only way I could think of to do it these days.”

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

145


A

G reat Manh attan Cocktail Bar | AT TABOY

Committed to Cocktails Milk & Honey’s refreshing approach was embodied in the bar’s Martin Luther–like “house rules.” Milk & Honey’s eight rules include such common-sense advice like “No hooting, hollering, shouting, or other loud behaviors” and “Do not linger outside the front door.” (It’s a bit sad that such behavior needs to be spelled out nowadays for everyone.) Milk & Honey moved to a larger location at East 23rd Street in 2013. In its place, two former Milk & Honey bartenders— Michael McIlroy and Sam Ross—opened Attaboy. In October 2014, Milk & Honey was forced to close its East 23rd Street location since the landlord decided to demolish the building for redevelopment. “The landlord of our new premises invoked a redevelopment demolition clause and we have been homeless ever since,” a message states on Milk & Honey’s website. “We are doing everything we can to find a new site as soon as possible.” In August 2015, Petraske sadly died at the age of 42. The New York Timespublished a long, detailed obituary for Petraske, reflecting his influence on the cocktail culture around the world. Thankfully, Petraske’s fastidious focus on creating craft cocktails in a subdued, understated setting lives on at Attaboy.

Personalized Attention Unlike some craft cocktail bars, there’s no book-length menu at Attaboy. They also don’t take reservations and restrict the bar to parties of six or fewer people. Instead, Attaboy takes a much more personalized approach. The bartender talks to you and makes a unique cocktail just for you based on your personal flavor preferences. The Bourbon-based drink I was served in a simple,

146

Old Liquors | special Edition 2018 - 4

glass tumbler with a single, large ice cube and a slice of lemon tasted like the perfect offspring of a Manhattan paired with a Bourbon Old Fashioned. Velvety smooth and refreshing, this understated gem had absolutely no bite and brought out the best in the ingredients. The bar’s Gin- and Vodka-based drinks are also outstanding, based on samples shared by several other patrons at Attaboy. That’s another great thing about this bar—the patrons it attracts to its out-of-theway location. Since Attaboy focuses on creating unique cocktails rather than trying to be the next A-list hot spot, craft cocktail fans from around the world make the pilgrimage to this bar open seven nights a week. As a result, conversations between knowledgeable patrons who take their drinks seriously often flow as easily as the cocktails being made by the polite bartenders. The entire experience feels absolutely refreshing and almost revolutionary. Imagine, a bar that cares more about the drinks than the hype! According to Attaboy’s website, “Attaboy is the everyman’s cocktail bar hidden in plain sight on an obscure bit of Eldridge Street,” which adds that Attaboy “is the younger, less self-conscious sister” of Milk & Honey. All of this might sound hard to believe. But if you do manage to make it to Attaboy and secure a seat at its bar, you’ll likely become a regular as well based on its outstanding, unique cocktails served in a dark, low-key setting that thankfully feels like a welcome throwback to a bygone era where quality and manners matter. Attaboy 134 Eldridge St, New York Open nightly 6 p.m. to 4 a.m.




Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.