The French Laundry cookbook, 2 edition by Олег Юра

THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY COOKBOOK

....'!!!!!!o. _ ...::�. THOMAS

KELLER

$50.00 The French Laundry Cookbook Thoma. KeUar with Susl. H.Uer and Michael Ruhlman

Photograph.

by Deborah Jane.

Thomas Keller, chef/proprietor of the French Laundry In the Napa Volley-"the most exciting place to eat in the United States/ wrote Ruth Reichl in The New York Times-is a wizard, a purist, a man obsessed with getting it right. And this, his first cookbook, is every bit as sotisfying 05 a French Laundry meal itself: a series of small, Impeccable, highly refined, intensely focused courses. Most dazzling is how simple Keller's methods are: squeegeeing the moisture from the skin on fish so it sautes beautjfully; poochlng eggs In a deep pot of water for perfect shope; the initiol steeping in the shell that makes cooking raw lobster out of the shell a cinch; using vinegar as a flavor enhancer; the repeated washing of bones for stock for the cleanest, clearest tastes.

From innovative soup techniques, to the proper way to cook green vegetables, to secrets of great fish cookery, to the creation of breathtaking desserts; from beurre monte to foie gras au torchon, to 0 wild and thoroughly unexpected toke on coffee and doughnuts, The

French Laundry Cookbook captures,

through recipes, essays, profiles, and extraordinary photography, one of America's great restaurants, its great chef, and the food that makes both unique.

One hundred and fifty superlative recipes are exact recipes from the French Laundry kitchen足 no shortcuts have been taken, no critical steps ignored, all have been thoroughly tested in home kitchens. If you can't get to the French Laundry, you can now re-create at home the very experience the Wine Spectator described as "as close to dining perfection as it gets."

THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY

COOKBOOK

Copyrlghl C 1999 by Thom•• Keller Deborah Jones Pholographs eopyrlghl C 1999 by All rights reserved. electronically. o� by any means. No porrion of Ihl. book my be reproduced-mechanically. ion or the publisher. permiss written without pylngg Includin pholoco

Published In 1999 by Arli"n n Division o(Workmnn Publishing,lnc.

708 8ro.dw.y New York. N.Y. 10003 www.workrnnllh.cb.com l.ihrnry ofCongrc811 Catnloging-in Publication Dntn Keller.Thomas. The French Lnundry Cookhook/hyThomns Keller wilh Susie Heller nnd Michnel Ruhlman: photographs by Dehornh Joncs. p.

CIIl.

ISBN 1-57965-126-7 I. Cookery. French. 2. French L.1llllllry (Resl,u""II) I. lIelier. Susie. II. nuhlm.n. Mieh.el. 1963-111. Tille.

TX719.K35 1999 641.5'09794' 19-<le2 1

99-32473 CIP Printed in Sing:lJlorc

III

Design by LEVEL

THE

FRENCH

LAUNDRY

THOMAS

COOKBOOK

KELLER

with

Susie Heller and Michael Ruhlman Photographs by Deborah Jones

Artisan New York

Acknowledgments

Pleosure and Perfection

The Low of Diminishing Returns

The Rood to the French laundry

Soup

The Mushroom Lady

Big路Pot Blanching

Hearts of Palm Grower

Bllnl

The Importance of Hollandaise

Gorden Canapes

The Accidental Rshmonger

The Workhorse Sauce

42 84

Infused Oils

45 Fole Gras

103

When In Doubt, Strain: Notes on How to Use This Book

124

Cooking lobster 73 Beurre Monte:

Truffles About the Chef

39 Agnolotti

121

A Passion for Rsh

Toots of Refinement:

The Chinols and Tamls A Sad Happy Story

F I S H -l18

FIRST C O U R S E - 52

C A N A P ES - 1 2

The Importance of Stoff Meal

115

165

135

122

M E A T- 169

D E S S E R T - 260

C H E E S E - 234

The Importance of Trussing Chicken

Vegetable Cuts

202

236

The Composed Cheese Course

Beginning and Ending

305

171 The Importance of Rabbits

Salt and Pepper and Vinegar

205

The Importance of France

247

The Ultimate Purveyors

311

180 The Importance of Offal

209

The Attorney Cheesemoker

248

Braising and the Virtue of the Process

186

The Pittsburgh lamber

Stocks and Sauces 194

"QuickH Sauces

Powders

231

220 228

Sources

315

List of Redpes

Index

316

318

VII

k n o w l e d 9 m e nt

5 Few people move through their work 3S a solitary force. and no one in the service business docs. As far as l'm concerned. my whole career has been effort.

cumulative

My mom. Betty. was and remains the higgest innucncc. if that's the word. in my life. Long berare she put me to work. she taught me how to clcnn our home, Everything hnd to shine. That standard of perfect cleanliness was its own brifl, given the work I'd cho08e. She was a (ocused, intense woman, the driving Corecarth e family. and she taught through her

Short. nnd Crant Achatz, who arrived with the opcnlng of the new kitchen. have bcen important rorces in developing the French laundry into what it is today. They, along with Stephen. logged many hours quantirying and demonstrating recipes forthis book. Pat McCarty has been more than the French Laundry's accountant-l sce her more as the third legof the rront of-thc-housc/kitchcnlfinaneial tripod that keeps a restaurant standing. I am grateful to her. Thcre arc too many stafr to thank individually, All of them make or have made the French Laundry the placc that it is. and I thank every one,

own actions. I honestly don't know who f'd be jf I'd been raised by. and had grown up watching. someone other than her.

past starr and prcscnt.

My brother. Joseph. stecred me in the beginning. even before I understood that my metier would be cooking. and for this I OIm grOltdu!. He kept me on track when I could have gone in any number of Icss

she and I have been talking about it for twclve years. (It began as a pop-up

productive directions.

her able assistant. Angic Spensicri. but who marshaled the tcam that made

Roland Henin was my chef. He hired me as staff-meal cook at the Dunes Club in Rhode Island, in the summcr of 1976. when I was not yet

writer Michacl Ruhlman: and graphic dcsigner Clirf Morgan. with his

twenty-one, :md tauglll me what I nccdcd to know to learn thc rcst.

design partncr David Hughes. Susie. Dcborah. Michacl. and Clifr becamc

During the ycars between Bcnin and the French Laundry. there was.

For this book. Susie Heller is to be thanked above all. Few know that book!) And it was she who not only wrote and tcsted all the recipcs with this book: photographer Deborah Jones. with her assistant. Jeri Joncs:

part or the rcstaurant in order to transrorm its csscnce into 3 book.

among many others to whom I'm also grateful. Serge Raou!. He not only

They're an extraordinary team: take any onc of them away and this would

hired me in New York. hewent on togive me a place to stayin France during

have been a different book entirely,

my stages. and then. most important. provided the opportunity to establish the restaurant Rakel. which proved to bc a transformative lime for me. I would like to thank all my partners: without them there would be no Freneh Laundry.

Susan Lescher brought the book beforc the right pcople and found the best possible publisher and editor for this project. Ann Bramson. I'm also indebted to the team in New York-Deborah Weiss Ccline. Judith Sutton. Dania Davcy, Nancy Murray, and Tricia Boezkowski.

Whcn we were opening the rcstaurant. L'lura Cunningham knocked

The French chef Fernand Point died thcycar I was born: in many ways

on my door and handed me her resume. She quickly took ehargc of the

his cookbook Ma Gastronomic-a book that eonvcycd his sensc of humor

front of the house and has becomc more than a general manager and

and the totality or a life rocuscd on dining-informed me early on about

sommclier-shc's as much a pari of the heart and soul of the restaurant as

how a ehcf might live his passion.

I am. Her passions. standards, and character. as well as her capacity to

I'd likc to thank my entire family for their support and also ror their

exprcss and teach hospitality. have been critical to the restaurant's

understanding. becausc the life of a chef incvitably leads to areas of

success. For all this. and her ability to work so closely with me, I am morc

neglect in onc·slife. I am grateful to them.

grateful than I can say,

Fin:llly. l'd like to thank my colle:lbrues. It's rrom you that I draw

In the kitchen. no one has been more dedicated and loyal, or more

inspir:ltion. and it's your cumulative talent that keeps me striving.

critical in shaping the French L1undry from its opening day. than French

Without the daily evidence of your skill and drive and passion. I would be

Laundry pastry chef Stephen Durfee. Sou. ehef. Erie Zicbold. Gregory

a lesser chef.

Acknowledgmont.

Pi e a

5 U

and

p e rfeet i o n

no such thing When you acknowledge. as you must. that there is n becomes perfectio toward striving of purpose real as perfect food. only the idea of it. then the clear: to make people happy. That's what cooking is aU about. But to give pleasure, you have to take pleasure yourself. For me.

it's the satisfaction of cooking

mechanical jobs I do every day: tourn6ing a carrot. or cutting salmon, or portioning foie gras-the everyday routine and the for passion daily, year after year. This is the great challenge: to maintain the endlessly repeated act. to derive deep gratification from the mundane. hearts braised with Say. for instance. you intend to make a barigoule, a stew of artichoke carrots and onions. fresh herbs. oil. and wine. You may look at your artichokes and think "Look at all those artichokes I've got to cut and clean." But turning them-pulling off the leaves. trimming their stems, scooping out the chokes. pulling your knife around its edge-that is cooking. It is one of my favorite things to do. Another source of pleasure in cooking is respect for the food. To undereook a lobster and serve it to a customer. and have him send it back. is not only a waste of the lobster and

all those

involved in its life. it's 3 waste of the potential of pleasing that customer. Respect for food is a

CO'I\CI,oll Rllollo

...11.,

Sho�.d White T,ulll.1 f,om "lbo, pog. 88

respect for life. for who we 3re and what we do. The foie gras preparations in this book are among my favorites because foie gras engenders so many different feelings. It's luxurious. It·s raTe and expensive. It·s visually and texturally rich, a very sensual thing. But the slow-cooking short ribs and oxtail and artichoke barigoule bring me some of the deepest pleasures of cooking I know. The process of braising. and the amazing aroma of floured meat in hot oil, is incomparable: taking the braising pan out of the oven to see the rich color of the liquid and the slow thick bubble of the deepening sauce, the beautiful clear layer of fat on top. When you've pulled your pot from the oven to regard your braise. to really see it. to smell it. you've connected yourself to generations and generations of people who have done the same thing for hundreds of years in exactly the samc way. My mentor. Roland Henin. told me something long ago that changed the way I thought about cooking: "If you're a really good cook." he said. "you can go back in time." Cooking is not about convenience and it's not about shortcuts. The reCipes in this book are about wanting to take the time to do something that I think is priceless. OUT hunger for the twenty minute gourmet meal. for one-pot ease and prewashed. precut ingredients has severed our lifeline to the satisfactions of cooking. Take your time. Take a long time. Move slowly and deliberately and with great attention. The idea of cooking and the idea of writing a cookbook are. for me. in conflict. There is :10 inherent contradiction between a cookbook, which is a collection of documents. and a chef. who is an evolving soul not easily transcribed in recipe form. A recipe has no soul. You. as the cook.

Pleasure and Perfection

must bring soul to the reCipe. These reCipes. a record of my evolution. have been painstakingly documented. but they should be used as tools rather than as exact blueprints. I can tell you the mechanics-howlo make a custard. for instance. But you won't have a perfect one if you merely follow my instructions. If you don't feel it. it's not a perfect custard. no matter how well you've executed the mechanics. On the other hand. if it's not literally a perfect custard. but you have maintained a great feeling for it. then you have created a reCipe perfectly because therc was that paSSion behind what you did. These recipes. thcn. although exact documents of the way food is prepared at the French Laundry. arc only guidelines.You're not going to be able to duplicate the dish that I made. You may create something that in composition resembles what I made. but more important-and this is my greatest hope-you're going to create something that you have deep respect and feelings and passions for. And you know what? It's going to be more satisfying than anything I could ever make for you. T H E R O A D TO T H E F R E N C H L A U N D R Y

In the spring of of l992,I came toYountvillein theNapaValley onthe advice of a friend to look at the French Laundry. The grounds were enclosed by honeysuckle. and climbing roses covered an arched trellis leading into the courtyard. It seemed as if I'd been beadmg there my whole working life. The French Laundry is a sixteen-hundred-square-foot structure, built in 1900 with the valley's river rock and timber. It's been many things to many people throughout its history-a residence. a French steam laundry. a saloon and brothel. and then a residence again before it became a restaurant: its best self. I think. The natural stone modesty comforts people who come here and helps us to focus on our work. I have always maintained that the Napa Valley is a perfect place for a restaurant-it's the only place in the country where people come specifically to drink excellent wines and eat fine food. But there's more to its appeal: Thirty-five miles long and up to five miles Wide, it is American bounty itself. Its first residents. the Wappo Indians. �ever learned to farm. because food just grew all year long. Their word nappa is sometimes translated as "plenty." But the NapaValley has not always been an emblem of rustic luxury. and the town ofYountville certainly hasn·t. "An outlaw town," one valley resident called it. "Prostitution. gambling. Big. big party town. Things going on m unmarked buildings." A North Carolina fur trapper founded Yountville in the 1830s. the first official lown in the

valley. and for most of its history it was anything but refined. The bulk of its population lived in the Veterans Home. which sheltered men returning from the Civil War and the Spanish-American War and continued this role right on through theVietnam War. during which time Don Schmitt. a Fresno banker. and his wife. Sally, moved to town.

T h e R o o d to t h e French Laundry 3

disintegrated into nothing more than By then, 1967. Yountville's glamorous outlaw days had and rooming houses. "It was a homes. a row of bars serving the veterans. trailers and ramshackle regeneration. and. with Sally. its orchestrate mayor. its cesspool." said Don. who would become open .he French Laundry in 1978. The late 1960s was an exciting time in the region. then a rugged territory of undeve loped farmland and abandoned prune and walnut orchards. Yountville sat like a quiet Mason-Dixon line between St.Helena lifting its eyebrows from the north at the townies of Napa in the south.And then a new wave of young winemakers arrived and tapped the power of The Grape. The grape to Napa is like the microchip to Silicon Valley. like oil to Texas. It would within thirty years tr.msform the United States' wine business into a world-famous industry and turn ule valley itself into the most sophisticated agricultural community on earth. I gave the French Laundry a new life and it gave me a new life. I don't sec us as being separate entities. Whatever the value of my skills. my knowledge, my sensibilities, they never would have come together in this book had it not been for the French Laundry.

A S A D H A P PY S T O RY

Autumn 1990 was a sad time in my life.

I was going to be leaving New York after ten years. I would

be starting life over in Los Angeles. and my new employer there wanted me to prepare a dish for a food and wine benefit there that would really wow people. Shortly beCore I moved, some friends took me to our favorite restaurant in Chinatown, and, as always. we went to Baskin-Robbins for ice cream aftenV'ard.l'd been nervous about this food and wine event. I guess it had been in the back of my mind for a while. I ordered an ice-cream cone. The guy put it in a little holder-you take it from a holder-and said. "Here's your cone." The moment he said it, I thought "There it is! \Ve're going to take our standard tuiles. we're going to make cones with them. and we're going to fill them with tuna tartare." And that's what we did.Now J use salmon. but you can really use anything. Eggplant caviar and roasted red peppers or tomato confH make a wonderful vegetarian version.You can do it with meat-julienne of prosciutto with some melon. The cone is just a vehicle. Because it was a canape that people really began to associate us with. I decided t.hat everyone who eats at the restaurant should begin the meal with this cornet. People always smile when they get it.It makes them happy. But I wouldn't have come up "nth it if I hadn't been sad. I had been handed an icc-cream cone a hundred times before and it had never resulted in the be sad to see it.

A Sod Hoppy Story

cornet.I had to

' C O R N E TS' 8nl1110n Tnrtnl'c w i t h Sweet Red O n i o n CJ'cnnc Fl'nichc

S A LM O N T A R T A R E M A K E S A l O U T 1/. CUP

C O RN E T S

V.. cup plus 3

toblespoon s oil-purpose flour

I toblespoon plus 1 t

spoon sugar

4 ounces solmon fillet (belly preferred), skin cnd cny pin bones removed cnd very finely minced

1 teaspoon kosher solt

J/.. teaspoon

a toblespoons

3/.. teaspoon lemon oil

(4 ounces) unsoIled butter,

softened but still cool to the louch

extra virgin olive

)1/2 teaspoons

oil

(see Sources, page 315)

finely minced chives

2 large egg whites. cold

1112 teaspoons finely minced shollots

2 tablespoons block sesame seeds

III teospoon kosher salt, or to toste

SWEET R E D C RE M E

ONION

F R A icH E

1 tablespoon finely minced red onions

1/2 cup creme froiche If.. teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste Freshly ground white pepper

to toste

24 chive tips (about 1 inch long)

Smoll pinch of freshly ground white pepper, or

to toste

hiS is one of my favorite dishes to serve to large groups of peopleÂ it"s fun to look at. it's distinctive. delicious. and doesn't require a

plate or silven\'are. You can cat it standing up. with a glass of Champagne

and repeat the proccss to make as many rounds as you have molds or to fill the Silpat. leaving about )l{z inches between the cornets. Sprinkle each cornet with a pinch of black sesame seeds.

or ....ine in one hand. At the French Laundry. I usc a specially made Lucite

Place the Silpat on a heavy baking sheet and bake for 4 to 6 minutes.

holder to serve these cones. but you might fill a bowl with rock salt. say.

or until the batter is sci and you see it nppling from the heat. The

or peppercorns. and stand the cones up in this to serve them.

cornets may have browned in some areas. but they will not be evenly browned at this point.

In a medium bowl. mix together the nour. sugar.

Open the oven door and place the baking sheet on the door. This ,viII

and salt. In J separate bowl. whisk the softened butter until it is

help keep the corncts warm as you roll them and prevent them from

completely smooth and mayonnaise-like in texture. Using a stiff spatula

becoming too stier to roll. Flip a cornet over on the sheet pan. sesame seed

F O R T H E C O RN E T S :

or spoon. beat the egg whiles inlo the dry ingredients until completely

side down. and place a 41J.l-inch cornet mold (size ::35: scc Sources. page

incorporated and srnooth. Whisk in the softened butter by tlllrds.

315) at the bottom of the round, If you are nght-handed.you will want the

scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary and whisking until the batter

pointcd end on your left and the open end on )'our right. The tip of the

is creamy and without any lumps. Transfer the batter to a smaller

mold should touch the lowcr left edge (at about 7 a'c1ock on a clock face)

container. as it will be easier to work with.

of the cornet. Fold the bottom of the cornet up Jnd around the mold and

Preheat the oven to 400Â°F.

carefully roll upward and toward thc left to wrap the cornet tightly around

Make a 4-inch hollow circular stencil. Place a Silpat (sec Sources.

the mold: it should remain on the sheet pan as you roll. Leave the cornet

page 3I 5) on the counter (it is easier to work on the Silpat before it is put

'\Tapped around the mold and continue to roll the cornets around molds:

on the sheet pan). Place the stencil in one corner of the sheet and.

as you proceed. arrange the rolled cornets. seam side down. on the sheet

holding the stencil nat against the Silpat. scoop some of the batter onlO

pan so they lean against each other. to prevcnt them from rolling.

the back of an offset SpJtula and spread it in an even layer over the stencil,

When all the cornets are rolled. return them to the oven shelf. close

Then run the spatula over the entire stencil to remove any excess batter,

the door. and bake for an additional 3 to 4 minutes to set the seams and

After baking the first batch of cornets. you will be able to judge the correct

color the cornets a golden brown. If the color is uneven. stand the cornets

thickncss: you may need a little more or less batter to adjust the thickness

on end for a minute or so more. until the color is even. Remove the

of the cornets, There should not be any holes in the batter, Lift the stencH

cornets from the oven and allow to cool just slightly. 30 seconds or so.

" C o r n ets"

To Inol«(" the I"It(.'l1cll:

CUI 111<, dnl fl'OIU the lap of n plruHIC conlnlne-I', 'fl'nee

two cOIl('enll'lc (.'11'(,')e8 on the

lid, the Inncl'

'I 111<:11('1"1 III

lIhulletl.'l\ thl.' out(.',' nbOllt 'I'h Inche-8, S)(l.'lCh n thun,!.> loh thot will mnl«,,'

Ie e-tl"'>' to

IIfl til(' ,,;lencH ofr Ihe ",lIicon'

conl('d SlIpnl. '1'1'111\ nl'otlnd

the (nb and Otltc:'1' ell'c)c.'.

H(,1110\'(-' the 11111(,"

('11"('1(' 1'10

thnt ,YOtl hl\\,(.' il hollow 1'11Ig",

'I'h<, bulIel ' g"('('" "'prencl to Ihe

"'I('IH'II'", (-'dgt.�""

Ihen It'",

:-Ihnpt.'(i round!>!.

Gently remove the comets from the molds and cool for several

Dry them on paper towels. In a small metal bowl. whisk the creme

minutes on paper towels, Remove the Silpat from the baking sheet, wipe

fraiche for about 30 seconds to 1 minute. or until it holds soft peaks

the excess butter from it, and allow it to cool down before sprcadingthe

when you lift the whisk. Fold in the chopped onions and season to taste

next batch, Store the cornets forup to 2 days (for maximum flavor) in an

with the salt and white pepper. Transfer the onion cream to a container,

airtight container,

cover, and refrigerate until ready to serve or for up to 6 hours.

F O R T H E S A L M O N T A R TA R E

With a sharp knife, finely mince the

COMPLETE

Fill just the top

111 inch of each cornel with onion

salmon fillet (do not usc a food processor, as it would damage the texture

cream, leaving thc bottom of the cone empty. (This is easily done using

of the fish) and place it in a small bowl. Stir in the remaining ingredicnts

a pastry bag fitted with a I/.-tneh plain tip or with the tip of a small

and taste for seasoning, Covcr the howl and refrigerate the tartare for at

knife.) Spoon about I'll teaspoons of the tartare over the onion cream

least 30 mtnutes. or up to 12 hours,

and mold it into a dome resembling a scoop of icc cream. Lay a chive tip

F O R T H E S W E E T R E O O N I O N C R E M E F R A I C H E: Place the red onions

against one Side of the tartare to garnish.

in a small strainer and rinse them under cold water for several seconds.

PICTURED ON PAGE 5

MAKES

24 COItNET�

-Cornets-

About the

h ef

"The French Laundry is not neW,"TIlomas Kellersaid tlle first timewe spoke. "It's twentyyears old.

by M I c hoe I R u hIm a n

It's bigger than me. A lot of people make it what it is. I want this book to be about the French

Laundry. not about me." One of Thomas's main claims is that the French Laundry could not be what it is without his purveyors, and he wanted to include a few of their stories. I traveled from the mountains above Napa to the farmlands of Pennsylvania to the cliffs of Maine to talk to them. Almost all of them. I found. either led double lives or had faIlen into purveying by accident. Ingrid Bengis. a seafood purveyor, was a writer of some notoriety in the 1970s: Keith Martin was a stockbroker before he was a lamber: and John Mood. hearts of palm grower. remains a commercial airline pilot. I found this extraordinary as the pattern emerged. but soon. it seemed almost inevitable. It was only this kind of person who might bring to the work a passion equal to that of the chef. And it was only this kind of chef who would satisfy this unusual kind of purveyor. And so. Thomas told me. "Get the story. I want the story to he just as important as the food: othenvise. I'm not interested in doing <1 cookbook.Thomas himself has an unusual story. How did a young man ,tfith no speCial food memories or even any real appreciation for food before the age of twenty become. two decades later. one of the counlJy's best chefs? There are clues in the critical moments when Thom3S learned important lessons that defined how he would work as a chef. Some of those revelations 3TC in this book.

About the Chef

For me. Thomas's gre<lt gift is his example of how to be observant of the world and how food behaves and how we must react as cooks to that food. L.ugel), self-taught. he is <l good teacher. conveying not just information. but also how he got that information. as well as its broader meaning <lnd possible uses. Thus. we have taken time to describe food technique. some basic (soups and braising). some refined (working with foie gras). The recipes run the gamut from simple to difficult as well. Want a real challenge? Try the dish callcd "Hcad to Toe." Want simple? Make the Gazpacho. the Lemon Tart. or the Cream of Walnul Soup. Most of the recipes are time consuming: they require thought and. mOSI important. involvement on the part of the cook. And therein lies the second gift from Thomas Keller. In this age of both intense interest in cooking and hurried. overly busy lives in which there is never enough time. he urges us to move slowly and dehberatcly. to fully engage ourselves in cooking. to regain the connection to food that we've lost in our cravmg for quick fixes. shortcuts. and processed ingredients. This is not fast food. nor is it four-star cooking Simplified for home kitchens. It is four-star cooking. period. Cooking that teaches. that reminds us to return to classical French cuisine both for guidance in technique and for inspiration in creating innovative contemporary food. In the stories. in the techniques. in the recipes lies his call for cooks<lnd chefs of every stripe to respect the food we have and to take more time and greater care in its cooking.

About t h e Chef

When in Do u b t, S train : b y S u s I e Hell c r

notes on how to use this book

The recipes in this book are the exact ones the

restaurant uses daily. along with many tips to make them casier to reproduce at home. They have been tested by me, my assistant. Angie Spensieri. ďż˝lIld home cooks in various home kitchens. If the degree of difficulty of a dish exceeds your desire to make it. please remember that it's 311 right to do only part of a recipe. Most people. I'm guessing. will not try the piS's hC3d preparation. but it would be a shame for anyone to miss the grihiche sauce that goes with it. It's so simple. and it's great with roast pork. The blini are simple-you need a tamis. hut they'll be the best blini you'vc ever tasted. So be flexible. If you don', want to make the tuile cone for the salmon t3rt3rc. serve the t..rt3re on toast points. If you don't have the time for the stock-based S3uces. turn to the glazes 3nd the eoulis-they're extr30rdin3rily versatile. YIelds are given for many subcomponents. the ones you may w3nt to make on their own. The recipes are built largely on basic techniques. so as you master them-making beurre rnontďż˝, for instance. or undcrstmlding the g13zing and deglazing process-the recipes will become much easier. The portion sizes arc small. based on the multicoursc meals (3t least five) the French L1undry serves. Most of the recipes C3Jl be doubled for larger portions. Perhaps the most important piece of advice is to re3d the recipe through before you begin. Some require time and special equipment th3t you should be sure to have before you commit to the dish. Sources for food and equipment are listed on page 315. Finding certain products may depend on where you live. We use gelatin sheets rather than powdered gelatin. for example. because they work better in the small qU3ntities called for here. Many finer grocers carry the sheets: if they are not available. however. you can order them. Most hard-to-find items like gelatin. Oeur de scI. and bottarga will last a long time.

r hope this book gives you a sense of what is possible in the home kitchen. I hope you get the same smile on your face th,lI I've gotten making these recipes. that Cod-this-is-great smilc when you can't believe how good it is. that real fecling of accomplishment.

When I n Doubt, Strain

A F E W ADDI TIONAL TI P S

S T R A I N A N D S K I M. When in doubt, strain.

ot a single liquid or pur6e moves from one pla.ce to a.nolher a.t the restaurant except through some kind of strainer. And you must a.lways be skimming-skim. skim. skim.

TA K E Y O U R A P PliA N C E S I N TO A C CO U NT

The recipes were de....eloped and tested using a home gas stove. If you're using an electric stove, remember that the coil takes longer to go from high to medium�low than a gas flame. Oven temperatures vary considerably. so buy a reliable thermometer or have your oven calibrated, U S E GOOD E Q U I P M E N T. Cet a few heavy

bottomed pots and pans-you don't need dozcns. Buy two good baking sheets that don't buckle in the heat. And look for a grcat butcher and a good fishmonger with whom you can develop relationships, T R U ST YOU R I N S T I N C T S. Use common sense

when following a recipe. If it calls for 3 pan on high heat. but the food is burning. it's probably too hot.lf a piece of meat looks as if it's overcooking, it probably is, so take it out even if it hasn't been in as long as the recipe says.

SO M E S P E C I F I C S

All eggs arc large. All flour

is all�purpose flour. Salt. unless specified. is kosher. All pepper is freshly ground. All butter is unsalted. All herbs are fresh. For oil. canola all is an incxpenslve. all �purpose cooking oil: vegetable oil is fine. grapesccd oil is preferable. Sugar is brranu}ated unless otherwise specified. Staple vegetables (carrots, onions) and garlic arc always peeled unlcss othenvisc specificd. All recipes include volume measurements, but learn to usc a scale: weighing ingredients is the most accurate way to measure and will yield the most consistent results.

When In Dou bt, Strain

I T he low

d i m i n i s hi n g

r et u r n s

Most chefs try to satisfy a customer's hunger in a short time with one or two dishes. They begin with something great. The initial bite is fabulous. The second bite is great. But by the third bite-with many more to come-the flavors begin to deaden. and the diner loses interest. It's like getting into a hot bath or jumping into a cold pool. At first. the temperature is shocking. but after

few minutes. you gct so

used to it that you don', even notice it. Your mouth reacts the same way to navors and sensations. Many chefs try to counter the deadening effect by putting a Jot of different flavors on the plate to keep interest alive. But then the diner can't focus on anything because it's confusing.

\VJl<!I I want is that initial shock. that jolt. that surprise to be the only thing you experience. So J serve five to ten small courses. each meant to satisfyyour appetite and pique your curiosily. I want you to say. "God. I wish I had just one more bite of that." And then the next plate comes and the same thing happens. but it's a different experience. a whole new flavor and fcel. PrKed'ng PGoe 路Socon ond [ggt,路

page 18. Above. While T,...We Oll路'nluied Cullord, PQile

T h e F r e n c h l a u n d r y Cookboo k

I I

The way to keep the experience fresh is not by adding more flavors.

Veronique? Sale with grapes. A t the restaurant. I serve a sale dish with

but rather by focUSing more on specific flavors. either by making them

a little marc structure to it. I make a stuffing of sultana raisins (dried

more intense than the foods from wruch they come. or by varying the

grapes) and brioche croutons. fold the sale around it to make a kind of

preparation technique.

package. and serve it with a classic glaďż˝age. It still has the integrity of

\Vhen I decide to make liver and onions. for instance. I might roast

sale Veronique. but with a modern interpretation.

a whole foie gr3S and senre it with four different onion preparationsÂ

To achieve the effects I want, I serve courses that are small relative

canCit. roasted. glazed red. and glazed white. Or I might senre a calfs

to portions you'll find at most restaurants. But small is not the point.

liver with just two of those preparations. The point is to isolate and

The point is this: For every course. there is a perfect quantity. Some

enhance flavors. not confuse them. One lamb course might include five

courses must be small because of what they are: A quaU egg is small. One

different lamb preparations. another might be simply a lamb chop with

bite is enough; two eggs would be redundant. The scallops we get are

lamb sweetbreads.

about three ounces-n :arly as big as a filet mignon. In a meal of five to

When I combine flavors. I do so in traditional ways. Sometimes that

ten courses. you don't need more than one scallop.

lamb is served with eggplant and mint-a combination verging on

With foie gras. though. I serve just slightly too much of it. because I

cliche. But I roast the eggplant with butter until it is a virtual fondue. and

want people to know what foie gras is all about. I go overboard 'with

I infuse the mint into a deep emerald oil.

truffles and caviar too. so that people who have perhaps only eaten

My favorite dishes for inspiration are traditional ones like quiche lorraine. daube of beef. short ribs. sale Veronique. What is sale

truffles in stingy quantities can taste them and say. "Oh, now I understand.

Canapes

""hite

Truffle O i l-Infused C u s t u l'ds w i t h Blnele 'rl'uftlc Ragout

� � O

--------- -------

CHIVE

CHIPS

I large russet potato

teaspoons Clarified Butter (page

125),

Kosher salt

About

20 chive tips {I '11 inches long)

melted

-------- ----

--------- -- ---

CUSTARDS

T R U f f L E RAGOUT

8 large eggs (with the poper egg carton)

IIJ cup Veal Stock (page 222)

2/J cup milk

1112 teaspoons finely minced block truffle

2/J cup heo� cream 1 % tablespoons white truffle all

(from a whole truffle, pieces, or peelings) Few drops of while wIne vinegar

Kosher salt

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

Freshly ground white pepper

112 teaspoon while truffle oil Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

�Inll�' Idens IU'O crcowd shnp)y rl'Olll

Ihe need 10 Inl\l<c lI�C or sOlnclhlll�.

\\'hell rl'lcll<l� lJ1'oll�ht liS un

we Inullcdlntcl;l' (hollght 10 r(.'nlUI'C

thcnl In n ctl�lt\l'd, '\'e hnd lI'urrlc

�Cl'npl'l nnd (!'lIrtie all on hnnd. Thl!'!

dish J!-I ('cully Ihut sllnplc: two

conlponcnlS. the 1l10s1 rundnlllCnlnl

nnd Ihe IllOSt l'UI'crled, COIll(' IOg-ClhOI'

In nn CXII't\ol'dlnnt'y wny, ,\'<, hnl<c the

ctlSlnl'ds In clenned eRgshcll�. then

top thOln with Il'lirtle l'ng-out und

gnl'ni!-lh enell whh n porrect chlvo

potnto chip.

The French

Laundry C o o k b o o k

FOR THE

CHIVE

C H I PS ;

Have all the ingredients ready when you

begin and work quickly to prevent the potato slices from oxidizing

Preheat the oven to 275DF.

F O R T H E C U S TA R D S

Heat the milk and cream in a saucepan. As soon as it reaches a boil.

(turning brown). One potato will make about 20 chips. You will need

remove the pan from the heal. Turn on a blcnder and pour in the milk

only 8 for this recipe: the extras make a great snack.

and cream. Then add the truffle oil. the reserved 2 eggs. and salt and

Preheat the oven to 275DF.

white pepper to taste. (Turning on your machine before "dding a hot

Peel the potato and use a paring knife to trim it into a Band-Aid

liquid will keep the liquid from splashing out of the mnchine; should the

shape (straight sides. rounded ends) approximately 4 inches long and

blender be turned off at any point. be sure to place the lid on the

1 inch wide.

machine before turning it back on.)

Bnlsh two SHpills (see Sources. page 3 1 5 ) with the clarified butter

Strnin the mixture through a chinois (see page 73) into a small

and sprinkle each lightly with kosher salt. Place one Silpat on a baking

pitcher. lei the custard sit for a few minutes and then skim off any foam

sheet. Using a mandoline. cut the potato lengthwise into paper-thin

that has risen to the top. Turn the eggshells upright in the carton and fill

slices. As you work. stack the potatoes in the order you cut them so that

ench egg three quarters full with the custard.

you will be able to match them up as elosely as possible.

TO C O O K T H E E G G S

Use n stninlesssteel or glass baking pan thnt is

L1y the potato slices on the Silpat in pairs. keeping each onc's

lnrge enough to hold the egg carton and at least 4 inches deep. If you arc

match at its side. PIOlce a chive in the center of one of the potato slices

using a stainless steel pan. fold a piece of newspaper to fit in the bottom:

and cover each slice with its match. Use your fingers to press and smooth

the newspaper will help to distribute the heat evenly. If you are using a

each chip. removing any air pockets between the two potato slices.

glass pan. this is not necessnry. Place the carton in the pan and fill the

Place the second prepared Silpat over the potatoes. buttered side

pn" with enough hot water to reach two thirds of the way up the eggs. to

down. nnd top it with a baking sheet to weight the potatoes and keep them

form a bain�marie. or water bath. The water should be inside the egg

flal. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes. reversing the pan halfway through the

cnrton as well as outside.

cooking process. Remove the chips when they are golden brown. The chive chips can be bnked up to 2 dnys ahead and kept in an .nrtight contniner. TO P R E PA R E T H E E G G S H E L L S

USC an egg eutter (see Sources. pnge

3 1 5) to cut off the Wider end of each egg. Or. if you don't have an egg

Cover the pan with a lid or baking sheet. place it in the middle of the oven. nnd bake for 40 to 45 minutes. or until the custard is seI. (Allowing the custard to cook slowly prevents air pockets.) The finished eggs can be kept in the water in a wnrm place for up to 2 hours.

cutter. rest an egg on its Side on a towel. Holding the egg steady. usc a

FOR THE T R U F f l E RAGOUT

serrnted knife to snw halfway through the \\ider end. Lift the egg upright.

drop or so of vinegar in " small snucepan. You shouldn't taste the

remove nnd discard the lid. pour the egg into a bowl. nod save the shell.

vinegar. but rnther usc it as you would use salt to enhance the other

Repeat with the remnining eggs. reserving 2 separately for the custard.

flavors. Simmer the rngout for 3 to 4 minutes. until it reduces to a sauce

Rinse the inside of the eggshells under warm water and use your

Combine the veal stock. truffles. and a

consistency and coats the back of a spoon. You will hnve 3 to 4

finger to loosen the inner membrane "round the opening of the egg.

tablespoons of sauce.

Working nil the wny around the shell. cnrcfully pull the membrane

TO C O M P L E T E :

downward. remove it . ..nd discard.

and season to taste. Place each egg in an egg cup. Spoon abollt a teaspoon

BreOlk off nny loose bits of shell from around the opening"nd mnke

SWirl the butter nnd tmfflc oil into the tmffle ragout

of rngolll over the top of each custard. Gently stnnd a chive chip in each

sure that the opening is large enough for a spoon to fit through it. Drain

clIstnrd.

the eggshells upside down in the egg carton.

P I C T U R l O ON P A G E

M ", I{[ �

HRVING�

Conopes

" B A C O N

E G G S "

A N D

sort Poached Q u a i l Eggs with A p p lewood-Srnol{ed B a c o n -----------------

---------------

� o

10 quail eggs (ond their corton)

3 tablespoons 8eurre Monte (page

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon woter

1 to 2 slices thinly sliced bocon,

2 teaspoons Brunoise (page

frozen and cut crosswise into Va·inch strips

135)

155)

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

erving a dish-whether a shrimp or a small spoonful of creme bnlJec-already "platcd� on the silverware creates an elegant

lift one spoon or skimmer to a bowl of icc water. After they have cooled. trim their egg at a time from the ice water and use a pair of scissors to

impression even before you've tasted the food. J used to scramble a quail

"tails" and excess whites. Return them to the ice water and refrigerate

egg and serve it on a soup spoon: here I've replaced it with :1 poached

until ready to serve. or for up to 2 days.

egg. It's a great little bite. One night a customer told everyone this was so

Place the bacon in a nonstick skillet over medium heat and saute

good he could cat ten of them. So we made ten of them and sent them out

for about 5 minutes. or until browned and crisp. Drain the bacon on

to him on a plate.

paper towels. TO C O M P L E T E : Remove the cold eggs from the water and place them

As the

in a saucepan ,vith the beurre monte and water. Warm the eggs over low

weight of the yolk pulls the egg through the water. the white encircles the

heat. then add the brunoise. along with salt and pepper to taste. The eggs

TIle best method for poaching eggs is in a deep pot of water.

yolk and sets. The deeper the water. the farther the egg travels before it

can be held in a warm spot for several minutes. but be careful not to

stops. and the more the poached egg will resemble its original shape.

overcook them.

You will want to cook a few extra eggs. as there might be some breakage. In a deep pot. hringat least 6 inches ofwater t o a simmer. Hold each

Place

I egg on each of six spoons arranged on a platter. Top each egg

with sauce and garnish the tops with the bacon. Pass the spoons to your

egg on its side on a towel and use a serrated knife to cut halfway through

guests while the eggs are hot.

the larger end of the egg. (It is impoI1ant to cut the large end of the egg.

P I C T U ' H O ON PAG£

MAKES 6 S E RV I N G S

as the yolk may not fit through the smaller end.) Lift the egg and remove the top. Stand the eggs in their caI10n until you are ready to poach them.

H O T E : Applewood-smoked bacon or any fruitwood-smoked bacon is

Once the water is simmering gently. add the vinegar. Pour the eggs

sweeter than bacon smoked with a hardwood such as hickory. Freeze the

from the shells into the water. adjusting the temperature as necessary to

bacon to make it easy to slice. Poach the eggs ahead of time and then

keep the water moving. Simmer for about 2 minutes. or until the whites

reheat them with beurre monte. The brunoise. a tiny dice of vegetables.

arc just set but the yolks arc still runny. (If the whites are not fully set.

adds bright color and additional flavor (see the photograph on page 202).

they will break apaI1 when touched.) Remove the eggs with a slotted

The F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

C o no ph

POI' WOystol's n!ld Pelll'ls,w I nont one 01' two plunlp oyslel'S on top or tnplocn

CllslnNI. nnd �nl'lIl�h It with Osel l'l\ cavlnl' rOl' whnt hns beeolne a slgnntul'e

d ish,

tot or people think this Is on UIlUSllnl pnll'ing, but rol' nlC It's toglcnt:

Inplocn, pelll'ls, ponl'ls, oyslel'!:I' , Log-Ieol 01' uot, Il's 0 vOl'y sensunl cOlnbluntlon,

(Choose o,vslel's with the t h lct'cst shells: t h ey hnve the lnost Juice.)

Cano, PO!)f Oppo111e P,epo"ng Coullflowf' Paono

Above O,el.a (OVla.

101

'OV1Ie', ond Peo,11: po\le 23

C a n a p e s 21

Cnvinl' C u u l i rlowel' P a n n a Cot t o w i L h Belugn

3 oysters, scrubbed with a brush

1 cup heavy cream

Kosher salt

J V3 gelatin sheets (see Sources, page 3 J 5)

8 ounces cauliflower. cut into large florets

Freshly ground block pepper

and stems trimmed

2 tablespoons (J ounce) unsalted butter About

to 2 ounces beluga coviar

) 1/2 cups water

was hoping to make a cold lobster-caulinower soup-caulinower puree on the bottom with a clear "mirror" of lobster consomme on

top. finished with caviar-but the cream in the caulinower puree clouded the consomme. The dish's failure resulted in two terrific canapes: cauliflower panna. cotta a.nd gellcd lobster consomme. We prepare the caulinower as a panna. cotta (traditioIla.J1y an Italian dessert of cooked cream), then coat it with gelled oyster juice. which adds a. shine to the cream and creates a bright backdrop for the beluga

Add the cream and liquid is almost gone and the cauliflower is tender. and completely creaJll the reduce 10 simmer for another 1 0 minutes cook the caulinower. Transfer the caulinower and cream to a food processor and blend page 73). There until completely smooth. Strain through a ehinois (see to taste. should be about I liz cups of puree. Taste for salt and add Soak I gelatin sheet in cold water to cover for 2 to 3 minutes to soften. It should feel very soft. with no hard sections. Squeeze the excess

caviar. The mellow creaminess of the caulinower is enhanced by and

liquid from the gelatin and stir it into the warm cauliflower mi:\1ure

contrasts the saltiness of the caviar.

until dissolved. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the panna cotta into the bottom of

TO SHUC K THE OYST E RS :

Hold an oyster in a towel. to protect your

ha.nd. with the rounded side down. Lean the wider end of the oyster aga.inst the table for support. Push an oyster knife under the hinge at the narrow end of the shell. Don't jam the knife in. or you risk damaging the

least an hour 10 set. This can be done several hours ahead. Remove the oysters from the liquid (discard them) and strain the juice. You will need I/ďż˝ cup of oyster juice: refrigerate the juice.

oyster. You will hear a "pop", twist the knife to loosen the shell. Keeping

Place the remaining If, gelatin sheet and 2 teaspoons water in a

the knife directly under the top shell. run the blade along the right side

small metal bowl set over a pan of hot water and stir constantly to

to cut through the muscle. This will release the top shell. which can then

dissolve the gelatin. Remove the bowl from the heat and add the oyster

be removed. Slide the knife under the meat to detach the second muscle

juice. Stir again to bc sure that the gelatin and juice are completely

holding the oyster in place. Reserve tlte oyster and all its juices in a small

combined. Add about 3 grinds of the peppermill.

howl. Repeat with the remaining oysters. Transfer the oysters to another small bowl. Strain the juices through

Place the oyster jelly in the refrigerator and stir occasionally until it has thickened to the consistency of salad oil and the bits of pcpper are

a fine-mesh strainer into the bowl. pour I/ďż˝ cup of water over the oysters.

suspended in the liquid. Coat the tops of the chilled panna cot ta with I

and refrigerate them for several hours. or overnight.

teaspoon of the jelly each. rotating the bowls to ensure an even coating.

TO P R EPAR E

THE

PAN N A

COTTA:

Cut the florets of cauliflower

vertically through the stems into liz-inch slices. Spread the caulinower

Return to the refrigerOltor until set or for up to I day. To serve. garnish the top of each panna cotta with a quenelle

evenly in a medium saucepan and add the butter and I liz cups of water.

(see page 274). or small oval scoop. of caviar.

or enough to come just to the top of the cauliflower (it should not he

P I C T U U O ON

completely submerged). Simmer for ahout 30 minutes. or until the

each of twelve small serving bowls or small cups and refrigerate for at

T h e F r e n c h L a u n d r y Cookbook

PAGl

MAKES

1 2 SERVINGS

· O Y S T E R S

A N D

P E A R L S ·

Snbnyon o t Penrl �rnpiocn w i t h Malpeque Oysters and Osetl'n CavinI'

TA P I O C A

1/3 cup small peart tapioca

PI.. cups milk

S A B AY O N

1 112

4 lorge egg yolks

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsoiled buner,

If", cup reserved oyster luke (from above)

16 meaty oysters, such as Molpeque. scrubbed wilh a bruSh

tablespoons while wine vinegar

cut into 8 pieces

SAUCE

toblespoon minced chives

3 tablespoons dry vermouth

1 1/.. cups heavy creom

1 to 2 ounces osetra caviar

Remaining reserved oyster iuice (from above)

Freshly ground block pepper

1 1/2 tablespoons minced shallots

1/4 cup creme froiche Kosher salt

iming is important in the completion of tbis dish. The cooking

heat for 2 to 3 minutcs to incorporate as much air as possible. The

should be

finished sabayon will have thickened and lightened. the foam will have

continuous process. so have the cream whipped. the

water for the sabayon hot. and the remaining ingredients ready.

subsided. and tbe sabayon will hold a ribbon when it falls from the whisk. If the mixture begins to break. remove it from the heat and whisk

F O R T H E TA P I O e A :

S03k the tapioca in 1 cup of the milk for 1 hour.

(Setting it in a warm place will speed up the rehydration oCthe pearls.)

quickly off the heat for a moment to recombine. then rcturn to the heat. Stir the hot sabayon into the tapioca. along with a generous amount

Follow the method for shucking described

of black pepper. Mix in the creme fraiche and the whipped cream. The

on page 22. Trim away the muscle and the outer ruffled edge of each

tapioca will be a creamy pale yellow with the tapioca pearls suspended in

oyster and place the trimmings in a saucepan. Reserve the whole

the mixture. Season lightly with salt. remembermg that the oysters and

trimmed oysters and strain the oyster juice into a separate bowl. You

the caviar garnish will both be salty. Immediately spoon If... cup tapioca

TO S H U C K T H E OY S T E R S :

should have about liz cup of juice. T O C O O K THE TAPIOCA:

In a bowl. whip 112 cup of the eream just

until it holds its shapc; reservc in the refngerator. Drain the softened tapioca in a strainer and discard the milk. Rinse the tapioca under cold running water. then place it in a small heavy pot.

into each of eight 4- by 5-inch gratin dishes (with a 3- to 4-ounce capacity). Tap the gratin dishes on the counter so that the tapioca forms an even layer. Cover and refrigerate until rendy to use. or for up to a day. TO COMPLETE: FOR

THE

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

SAUCE

Combme the vermouth. the remaining reserved

Pour the remaining 3/... cup milk and 3/... cup cream over the oyster

oyster juice. the shnllots. and vinegar in a small saucepan. Bring to a

trimmings. Brang to a simmer. then strain the infused liquid onto the

simmer nnd simmer until most of the liquid has eV3porated but the

tapioca. Discard the trimmings.

shallots are glazed. not dry. Whisk in thc butter piece by piece. adding a

Cook the tapioca over medium heat. stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. until it has thickened and the spoon leaves a trail when it is pulled through. 7 to 8 minutes. Continue to cook for another 5 to 7 minutes. until the tapioca has no resistance in the center and 1S translucent. The mixture will be Slid ..)' and if you lift some on the spoon and let it fall. some should still cling to the spoon. Remove the pot from the heat and set aS1de in a warm place. F O R THE SA8AVON

Place the eggyolks and the 'h cup oysterjuice in

a metal bowl set over a pan of hot water. Whisk vigorously over medium

new piece only when the previous one is almost incorporated (as you would for Beurre Montc. page 135). Meanwhile. place the dishes of taploca on a baking sheet and heat in the oven for 1 to 5 minutes. or until they just begin to puff up. Add the oysters and the chives to the sauce to warm through. Spoon 2 oysters and some of the sauce over each gratin and garnish the top with a quenelle (see page 274). or small oval scoop. of caviar. Serve immediately.

MAI{E S 8 S (1tV I N G S

Canapes

Pielded

Oyste rs

w i t h E n g l i s h C u c u m beJ' " C n pe i l l n i " n n d D i l l

PI C K LI N G

About 3 cups seaweed or Rock Salt Mix

6 meaty oysters, such as Belon or Salutation Boy,

L I QU I D

cup white wine vinegar

(recipe follows)

scrubbed with a brush

112 cup water

1 ounce sevrugo covior (more or less according

路 CAPE L L I N I 路

112 cup sugar

1 English cucumber, peeled

I star anise

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

to taste and budget)

6 sprigs dill

3 cloves

I tablespoon rice wine vinegar

6 coriander seeds

teaspoon chopped dill

3 stems dill

ood conccpts often re-create themselves in different forms. In this case a great canapc-" Unguine" with White Clam Sauce

(page 25)-led to the creation of another. Picklcd julienncd cucumber replaces the capellini. dill replaces the thyme. and oysters replace the clams. Instead of being served hot in the clam shells on rock salt. this canape is served cold in the oyster shells on a bed of seaweed.

FOR

THE

PICKLI N G

L I QUI D .

Place all of the ingred ients in a

Drain the "capellini" and squeeze to remove excess liquid. Place in a bowl and toss with the chopped dill. TO COM P L E T E :

Place a bed of the seaweed or rock salt mLx on each of

six serving plates. Twirl the cucumber with a fork. as you would pasta. and place a mound in each oyster shcll. Remove the oysters from the pickling liquid and place an oyster on each mound ofcucumber. Garnish each oyster with about I teaspoon of caviar and a sprig of dill. PlCTU'HO O N

PAG(

M A I( [ $ 6

S E RVINGS

saucepan. Bring to a boil. remove from the heat. cover. and allow to steep for 30 minutes. This is enough liquid to pickle up to 2 dozen oysters. TO SHUCK T H E OY S T E R S '

ROCK

SA L T

M I X

Follow the method for shuckingdcscribed

on page 22.

Rock salt (see Sources, poge

Wash the deeper halves of the shells and reserve. Using scissors. cut away the muscle portion of the oysters and discard. 'Vash the trimmed

3 1 5)

Allspice berries

Stor anise

Cloves

Boy leaf

Block peppercorns

oysters (the nOL%) under cold running water to remove the milky residue. which would coagulate with the vinegar in the pickling liquid and create

shells nestle comfortably in the salt. and if it's been heated. the mix will

and refrigerate in a covered container for at least 12 and up to 36 hours.

help keep the shellfish hot and give off a fragrant aroma. It can be kept

FOR

T H E "' CAPE l l l NI " :

Using a mandoJine. cut 11It.-ineh-lengthwise

slices from one side of the cucumber until you reach the seeds. Turn the cucumber and continue to cut slices from all four sides of the cucumber.

indefinitely at room temperature. There are no specific proportions or spices for this mix. Use the salt as a base and mix in as much of each spice as you wish.

Stack the slices and cut them lengthwise into 1/16-inch julienne strips to

Mix the ingredients. then store in a covered container at room

resemble capellini. You will need 1 cup "capellini." Combine the

temperature. TIle mix can be reused many times as long as if heated. it

cucumber strands with the kosher salt and rice wine vinegar in a bowl

did not burn.

and allow them to marinate for about 30 minutes to extract excess liquid.

This is a decorative and practical base for clam and oyster dishes. The

an unwanted coating on the oysters. Add the oysters to the pickling liquid

The French L a u n d r y Cookbook

"Llnguine" w i t h \OV h i te C l a nl. Sauce

CL A MS

2 ounces Pasta Dough (poge 78),

SAUCE

18 Jinleneck dams, soaked in a few changes of cold water for severol hours, draIned, and scrubbed with a brush

2 large doves garlic, unpected, s!ightly crushed I large shallot, roughly chopped

2 teaspoons Roasted Garlic Puree (recipe follows)

rolled out and cut into copellini

Reserved dam broth (from above)

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

1 2 tablespoons (6 ounces) unsolted buHer,

% teaspoon thyme leaves

cut Into V2·lnch pieces

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

Few drops of white wine vinegar

2 sprigs thyme

2 small boy leaves

3 cups Rock Salt Mix (page

112 cup crisp, dry white wine, such as

24)

Sauvigon Blanc or Muscadet

he lIaliao classic refined and reduced to a canape sizc-clams steamed

TO COM P L ET E :

Spread the rock salt on a baking sheet. place in the oven.

open in white wine infused with gnrlic and thyme. sauce made from

and heat for about 5 minutes. or until hot and aromatic. Meanwhile. add

the clam broth. butter. and more garlic. We use fresh capellini instead of

the pasta to a large pot of lightly salted boiling water and cook for about 2

linguini and whole littleneck clams. then serve the final dish in the clam

minutes. or until tender. Gently reheat the clams.

shells. (Do not season the sauce until right before serving. as the clams add 5.'t1t to the dish.)

Drain the pasta. then toss it in the bowl with the remaining sauce. the parsley. and thyme leaves (chopsticks work well for thiS). Season to taste. Place a bed of warm rock salt on each of si.x plates. USlllga small fork.

TO COOK

THE

CLAMS :

Place the clams. garlic. shilliot. thyme sprigs.

twirl a small portion of the pasta and place it in a reserved clamshell:

bay leaves. and wine in a stainless steel saucepan that holds the clams in

repeat to fill aU the shclls. Top each portion of pasta with a warm clam and

one layer. Cover and bring to a boil over medium heat. moving the clams

some of the sauce. Arrange 3 filled clamshells on each bed of rock salt.

around from time to time to ensure even cooking. Remove each clam as it

M A I ([ S 6 S E Il V I N G S

opens. TIlis should take place within about 5 minutes: diseard any unopened clams. Strain the broth through a chinois (seepage 73) and set aside.

ROAST E D

Remove the clams from the shells. Using a paring knife. loosen the muscle attached to the shell. Save the 18 largest half shells for the

1 % tablespoons unsolted buner

finished dish. Pull away and discard the muscle from each clam. leaving

3 large heads garlic

only the tender center section of the clam. Trim the clams as necessary

GARL I C

PURE E

1 teaspoo kosher salt

(about 7 ounces)

for a smooth edge. The clams can be prepared to this point up to a day ahead. If you are not complettng the dish. allow the broth to cool. Then place the clams in a container with the cooled broth and refrigerate.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. Place the butter on a double thickness of foil and smash it to make a

Place the trimmed clams and the broth in separate small saucepans.

base for the garlic. Top with the garlic and sprinkle with the salt. Fold

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

over the sides to make a package and roast for l 'h hours. or until the

FOR T H E SAU CE :

Whisk the garlic puree into the clam broth and bring

garlic is soft.

to a boil. Simmer to reduce to 2 to 3 tablespoons. \Vhisk in the butter

While it is still warm. scrape the softened garlic through a tamis (see

piece by piece. adding the next piece only when the last piece is almost

page 73) or pass it through a food mill. leaving behind the skins. Roasted

incorporated. Season wilh white wine vinegar. Remove from the heat

garlic puree should be used the same day it is prepared.

and strain mto a bowl. Pour half of the strallled sauce over the clams.

MAKES A SCANT CUP

You go out 10 nn IInllnn rCAtoul'ont,

:rOU ol'de,. SOll1clhing IIko llngulnc

with clon1 antlce, nnd I h l n l( �\Vhy

don' l I do Ihls. I'cuuce thnl. do I h I8?"

And �"Oll COll1C tip with n run now

ul!'eh-MllnJ:tlllnc" with clnn"l "'ttucc

aOl'vcd In thc cinlll shells, P(.'opl('

cnll ,'dnle to Ihe concept nnd rll\\'OI'H

bcenu�c Ihey nl l'cnd�' I"no\\' how I t

w i l l (nSle.

Canapes

'.' II E

M U S U it 0 0 M

T h e French Laundry Cookbook

L A U Y :

C O H H I E

G R E E H

Bobcats and mountain lions hove returned

of damp leaves beside her driveway, she

t o the woods where mycologist Connie

drops to the ground and caresses the great

Green hunts, so she always keeps the blade

golden fungus-the "workhorse" of wild

o f her picking knife open. She lives on the

mushrooms. Connie often hunts at night,

side of a mountain overlooking the Napa

the best time t o forage, especially for the

Volley, and in winter she prowls its hills

block trumpet; its spore-bearing loyer, she

hunting wild mushrooms for the restaurant.

explains, gives off a phosphorescent glow in

When she sees a fat chanterelle pushing out

the beam of a flashlight .

Connie Jives a kind of outlaw life,

California up into the Yukon. They live

to Napa with their m ushrooms-cepes;

working only with wild, wild mushrooms-

largely outside society, in tents and cheap

morels; lobster mushrooms; matsutaki; the

"oct·of·God mushrooms," she calls them.

motels, and arc known only by nicknames

lacy, floral�scented cauliflower mushroom;

And she hos ollied herself wit h on outlaw

(Yankee Jim, Coke Bottle Donny), Connie

and the remarkable. rare candy cop. a

culture, 0 group of men and women called

meets them at a rickety motel they've

mushroom that smells and tastes like maple

circuit pickers, who make their living on

dubbed the Mushroom Palace, where they

syrup.

what's known os the Mushroom Trail,

stay up late drinking and telling stories of

picking wild growths from Northern

the trail, and in the morning Connie returns

"They use ports of your mouth you never knew you hod," Connie says. -M.R.

Canapes

T h e F r e n c h L a u n d ry C o o k b o o k

Sou P

My favorite soups are the amuse-gu cule soups. canape soups. which we serve in

demitasse or small soup cups: just two or three sips of intense lobster. of intense fennel. avocado. or watercress. It's the explosion of flavor that's so exciting-taking an ingredient and making it more than what it was to begin with. Soup is Simple. Identiry your ingredient. cook it perfectly. and adjust the consistency. First. your main ingredient must be of primc quality: Ifyou 're making turnip soup. you want it really good turnip. When you have your ingredient. ask yourselr. "How do I cook this best?" Carrots? They're a root vegetable. so you glaze them. If you glaze them perfectly. there's your soup-just adjust the consistency with stock or other liquid. Green vegetables? Start by " big-pot blanching." then puree. add liquid. and strain-there's your soup. The liquid depends on your ingredient. If it's turnips. you can use chicken stock. because a turnip has a very sharp fonďż˝'ard fla.vor that won'l be lost beneath the chicken flavor. Favas. though, are so delicate and fresh you may not even want vegetable stock. maybe just enough water to bring the puree to the right consistency. We try to make eight soups every day. and the single idea behind them is to intensify the flavor and color of the main ingredient. One spoonful of carrot soup should deliver the flavor of several carrots. A case of watercress makes only twelve ounces of puree. It then needs to be diluted. like an artist's paint that needs to be thinned with a neutral oil before it can be put on the canvas. Certainly there are issues of finesse. such as adding cream. Cream tends to mute flavors. but it adds body and te).:ture. Adding oils to soups finishes and enriches them: the pea soup with white truffle oil is a perfect example. We use lobster stock for two soups. For the consomme. we clarify it. gel it. and top it with creme fraiche. For the broth. we reduce the stock to a glace and cream it: the ultimate lobster taste. C a n a pe s

Lobst el' COn SOnlJUe en Gelee

6 quarts water

3 large egg whites

II" cup canolo 011

4 cloves gorlic

1/" cup lobster corol (roc; see poge 33), at rOOm

31/" pounds lobster bodies (obout 12 to 1 3 bodies,

112 cup ( 1 ounce) tightly pocked taHogon sprigs

LO B S T E R

STOCK

see poge 1 24), quortered

temperature (optional, but recommended)

4 gelatin sheets (see Sources, page 3 1 5), soaked

4 pounds chopped tomatoes (7 cups)

in cold water to soften

1 112 cups (6V2 ounces) chopped fennel 1 J/" cups (8 ounces) sliced corrots

CLARIFICATION

3 cups (8 ounces) sliced button mushrooms

Generous V" cup ( 1 112 ounces) chopped fennel

1 112 cups (6 ounces) sliced shallots

Generous J/" cup (4 ounces) chopped carrots

1/2 cup creme froiche, whipped

113 cup (2 ounces) chopped onion

About 2 tablespoons Brunoise (page I SS)

1 cup dry vermouth

e sure to have the corrcct amount of liquid before adding the gelatin: simmer the stock to reduce it to the exact quantity

specified. Because this soup is cxtradorinarily rich-lobster essence. magnified-we serve it

�

very small bowls Or demitasse cups. just two

ounces per serving. This recipe will make four cups of consomm�. I

RAFT A small piece of lobster carol (optlonol)

stir o r force any remaining solids through t h e strainer: they would cloud the stock. There should be approximately 4 quarts of stock. Let cool to room temperature. The stock can be refrigerated for up to 1 day. Remove and discard any fat from the top of the stock. then place it in a heavy pot. Finely grind the fcnnel. carrots,

don't recommend reducing the recipe further. bUI any extra consomme

FOR THE

can be frozen.

and onion in a meat grinder or food processor. Whisk the egg whites and

C L A R I F I C AT I O N

R A F T;

the 1/4 cup coral in a bowl until frothy. then stir in the ground vegetablcs. Heat the oil in 3 large rondeau. or deep straight

Whisk the vegetable mixture into the cold stock. Place the pot over

sided braising pan. overmediurn-high heat just until it smokes. Add the

low heat ;md stir constantly with a wooden spoon until it reaches 128°F.

lobster bodies and saut�. turning often. until they turn red. 3 to 4

Stop stirring and bring the stock to a simmer.

F O R T H E STOCK ,

minutes. Be careful not to lct them burn. Of your pot is not large enough to accomplish this easily. do it in two batches.) Add the fennel. carrots. mushrooms. and shallots. Continue

As the liquid begins to simmer. a raft will form over the stock. Cut a 1 - to 2-inch "breather" hole in the side of the raft. You will be able to see the movement of the simmering stock through the hole. The raCt acts as

cooking. stirring occasionally. for about 10 minutes. to soften but not

a filter to clarify the stock. The liquid may simmer up through the raft in

color the vegetables. Add the vermouth. watcr. garlic. tarragon, and

a few spots. but it should never be 3t a full boil. which would break the

tomatoes and bring 10 a boil. then reduce the heat and let the stock

clarificalion raft and cloud the consomme. Simmer for I hour. Be sure

simmer for 2 hours.

to keep the breather hole open.

Strain the stock through a China cap (see page 73), smashing the

Line a China cap with a damp towel or cheesecloth and set it over a

shells and vegetables with a wooden spoon to extract as much liquid as

deep container. Leaving behind as much of the raft as possible. 13dle the

possible. Discard the shells and vcgetables and pour the stock through a

stock slowly down the side of the cloth. starting at the top of the strainer.

chinois (sec page 73), tapping the top rim to help it run through. Do not

(Pouring it this way will keep the liquid from pushing through any fat or

T h e French Laundry Cookbook

Mnldng COnSOIll.1l10 Is nn cxnctlng

process. but tho I'CSllUS nl'o ommdng.

Thc pO\\'Crtul lobster JClly luelts I n your

rllOl1th nlld thc vogetnblcs odtl 0 subtlc

bite. The co1'1\1 Is not only n color

bUI'SI.

provides tm l t l nC8ďż˝ to thc swect

lol>stel': nnd the field In the CI'cntC

h'niehc n1u)<es nl1 thcse co101's llnd

rlnvors ond tCXHII'CS spo lÂˇldc.

impurities that gather in the bottom oC the China cap.) Tilt the pot as

when ready to usc. defrost the consomme and bring to a boil. then cool

necessary to reach as much clear stock as possible. Leave behind any

as above and allow to re-gel in the refrigerator,

that doesn't look clear and discard it along with the raCt. You should have

FOR THE

about 2 quarts of consomme.

'\Tap. Place it ina resealable plastic bag, pressingout any air from the bag.

L O B S T E R C O R A L (O P T I O N A L)

Wrap the coral in plastic

You will be able to see. floating on top, any fat remaining in the

and seal the bagwell. Submerge it in boiling water and cook the coral until

consomme. Gently lay a paper towel on top oC the liquid and quickly

it has turned bright red (you are making hard-boilcd eggs!). Remove the

glide it over the surface. Discard the towel and repeat several more times

coral from the bag and refrigerate it for an hour. or until it is cold.

until there is no remaining Cat (which could cloud the consomme).

Grate or grind the coral in a mini-blender or grinder. Store the

Line a chinois with a clean towel or cheesecloth and strain the

ground coral in the refrigerator until ready to usc, or forup to I day. or

consomme one last time into a pot. Bring it to a simmer and reduce the

wrap well and freelc for up to several months. (The cooked coral can

consomme to I quart. Pour l Oto a container.

be frolcn as a solid piece and then grated while still frolen when ready

Squeeze the gelatin sheets dry and stir them into the hal consomme

to use.) Break up the cold consomme with a spoon and place

until completely dissolved. Set in a larger container oC icc and water and

TO CO M P L E T E :

let cool to room tcmperature. stirring occasionally. then refrigerate.

about 1/. cup in each serving cup or bowl. Top each serving of consomme

covered. for several hours, or overnight. to gel . The consomme will keep

with a quenelle (see page 274), or small oval scoop. of whipped cr(!me

refrigerated Cor up to 3 days (after 3 days. it can be reboiled and kept for

fraiche and sprinkle ,'lith the brunoise and. if using, grated lobster coral.

I to 2 more days). For longer storage. it can be frozen for up to 1 month:

"' A le t s 1 6 H R V I N G S ( 4 c u p s )

C o n o ph

T h e Fre n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

C l'CO Ill.Y

M a i n e Lobsler B l'Olh

Gazpacho

114 cup conolo oil

3 10bsler bodies

1 cup chopped red onIons

(12 Ounces tOlal, see page 1 24), cut into quarters

1 cup chopped green bell pepper

1 112 cups chopped tomatoes

1 cup chopped English cucumber

1/2 cup chopped corrals

1 cup peeled and chopped tomatoes

1 bunch tarragon (1/2 ounce)

1 % teaspoons chopped garlic

2 cups heavy cream

1 112 teospoons kosher salt

l obsters and cream is a luxurious combination. intensified here in the L form of a canape. soup. 1 froth the broth before serving it. When you arc preparing lobsters. save the bodies to make this broth

1/.. teaspoon cayenne 11" cup tomoto paste 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

114 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

(freeze them if need be for future use). This is a very rich soup. best

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

served in small portions.

3 cups tomato luice Sprig of thyme

Heat the oil in a large rondeau. or deep straight-sided braising pan. Add

Balsamic Gloze (poge 23B), in a squeeze boHle

the lobster shells and scar over medium-high heat for I to 2 minUles per side. until they turn red. (If your pot is not big enough to accomplish this easily. do it in two batches.) Add the tomatoes. carrots. and

on't always think of gazpacho as soup. Think of it as a sauce. Think of it hot as well as cold. It goes beautifully with grilled chicken or

tarragon. cover the shells and vegetables with water. and bring to a boil.

fish. Gazpacho

Skim off any impurities that rise to the top. Reduce the heat and simmer

Laundry. garnished with balsamic glaze. or as a sauce with the Salad of

over low heal for 1 hour. Strain the stock through a large strainer or a

Globe Artlchokcs with Garden Herbs and Gazpacho (page 62). It can

China cap (see page 73). smashing the lobster bodies with a wooden

also be served

spoon to extract all the liquid. and then strain again through a chinois

couldn't bc easier; it achieves its powerful flavor simply by overnight

(see page 73) into a clean saucepan.

maceration. which is the only "cooking" involved.

served in small portions as a canape at the French

larger portions as a tradillonal cold soup. This soup

Return the strained stock to the stove and simmer until it is reduced to I cup. Add the heavy cream. return to a simmer. and cook. skimming

Mix all the ingredients except the balsamic glaze together in a bowl or

occasionally. until the broth is reduced to 2 cups. Strain through a

other container. co\'cr. and lei sit in the refrigerator overnight.

the

The next day. remove the thyme and blend all the ingredients in a

strainer. Cover and refrigerate the broth for several hours to chill. or for

blender until the gazpacho IS smooth. You will have about 2 quarts. For

up to 3 days.

a smoother tex1ure. strain the soup to yield about I quart. Refrigerate

chinois into a container. discarding any solids remaining

COMPLETE

Place the cold broth in a heavy saucepan and whisk

thc gazpacho until ready to serve. L1dlc the cold soup into bowls and squeezc dots of

vigorously over medium heat as you reheat it. The broth will froth as you

whisk in air. Pour the hot broth into demitasse cups.

balsamic glaze over the top.

PICTUIHO ON

PAG(

M A K l S 6 TO 8 S E RV I N G S ( 2 cu p s )

C O M P LETE

MAKES 8

1 6 SERVINGS

Canaph

The French Loundry Cookbook

P u ree of E n "" j i s h Pen S o u p \\'I 1 1 1. � b

3 pounds English pem, shelled (about 3 cups)

7 quor1s water About I cup sugar

\", Il l. t e I l'u l rl c O i l o l l d POl'lncsnn C r1 8 p s • .

1 112 Cups kosher salt

v.. cup white truHle oil

V..c to V2 cup Vegetable Stock (page 227)

6 to 1 2 Parmesan Crisps (recipe follows>

1/4 cup water

( 1 per serving)

Kosher so[t and freshly ground white pepper

his soup should be served the the same day it's made. as it will oxidize. or discolor. over time. The vivid green oCthe soup results

puree and blend. (The color of the soup will lighten from the air blended

extraordinary visual impact. The success of this recipe relics on the quality of the peas. Look for small sweet peas. Taste your peas for

consistency of the soup. If it is too thick and needs more liquid. add

sweetness to determine the alllount of sugar to add to the water (make this soup in cnrly summer when English peas arc at their peak). A Parmesan CriSp is placed on each scrvingcup as a "lid": be sure to make the crisps a size appropriate to your cups. This soup can be served hot 01' cold. but either way. I like to enrich it with white tnlffle oil. which enhances its luxurious flavor and texture.

into it. but it will return to dark green after it sits.> Chcck the either more vcgetablc stock or more waleI'. depending on how flavorful the soup is. and blend again. Add a pinch of salt. white pepper to taste. and blend again. POtlr the soup through a chinois (sec page 73). If you are serving the soup cold. stir in thc truffle oil and rcfrigerate the soup in a covered container until serving. If you are serving the soup hot. reheat gently over low heat and stir in the tnlrne oil just before serving. Serve the soup garnished with the Parmesan criSp "lids," MAKES 6

1 2 SERVINGS

(AaouT

cups)

Place the peas in a bowl. cover them with ICC. and toss together to chill the peas (this step will help return thcir bright color).

PARM E S AN

C RIS P S

Bring the watcr to a rolling boil in a largc pot and add the sugar and salt. Lift up a slllall batch of peas with a strainer. letting the ice fall back

112 cup finely groled ParmigJono·Reggiono (from 0 moist pIece of cheese)

into the bowl. and add them to the watcr. It is important that the water returns to a boil almost immediately to kcep the peasa vivid grcen color:

These crisps can be made in any size. but it's important to usc freshly

it may not if too many peas are added. so adjust the quantity added as

grated Parmigiano- Reggiano. These are easy and have many uses-serve

necessary to maintain the boil. Cook the peas until they are lender and

them with salads or soups. or use them to hold goat cheese mousse

fully cookcd. 7 to 1 0 minutcs. depending on the quantity and quality of

(page 49)-but be sure to make cxtra. because you'lI want to eat a fcw

pcas added.

while you're making them.

While the peas cook. place a colander in a bowl of ice water. (This will make it easier to remove the chilled cooked peas from the ice.)

Preheat the oven to 325°F'. Line a baking shcet wilh a Silpat (sec Sources.

When the peas are tender. remove them to the colander to chill as

pagc 3 1 S) .

quickly as possible. Lift the colander from the icc bath and drain the peas well. Repeat this process until all the pcas arc cooked. Puree the peas in a food processor. then scrape the puree through a

Sprinkle about 2 teaspoons o f the cheese in one corner of the Silpat. Usc your fingers to spread the cheese into a 2-inch circle. Repeat with the remaining cheese: you should have about 12 rounds.

tamis (sec page 73). (If the vegetables are cooked correctly. some oCthe

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes. oruntil they arc goldcn brown. Use a small

puree Will stick to the bottom of the wire screen. and you will have to

spanl1a to transfer them to paper towels. They will still be soft when they

scrape it ofr.) You should have about 2 cups of puree.

are removed but will stiffen as they cool. Store the crisps in an airtight

Place % cup vegetable stock and the water III a large blender (if your blender is smnll you may want to do this in two batches). Add the pea

container for up to 2 days. M A I( [ S A 8 0 U T T W E LV E

2 ' I N C I1 C R I S P S

Canaplh

Oppo,lt., r.ght

811.,. with Swcret Rooucrd Pc-ppo

T h e French L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

••

and Eggplont

Co�tor,

pogo

.. 1

Blin i

are an elegant way to begin a meaL They're Itght. creamy. and refined. and

they're a wonderful vehicle for garnishes. so we serve them six or seven different ways. treating them, in effect. like a luxurious potato, The blini almost dissolve on your tongue. leaving the flavors of the garnishes. One way we serve them is with roasted peppers and eggpbnt caviar. Another is with bOltarga. a bright lasty garnish. especially when paired with the rich. buttery tomato con Cit. BUI blini arc great even with just a little fresh butter. Although we make them small. there's no reason you can't make them larger.

Co flO p h

B U n ! w i t h Bottarga d i M u g g i n e o n d C o n f i t o f TOlTIuto

Yul<on G o l d Potato B H n !

1/" cup minced Tomato Confit (9 pieces) (page 64)

1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes

2 tablespoons aU路purpose flour

I 'll tablespoons Vegetable Stock (page 227) or Chicken Stock (page 226)

2 to 3 tablespoons creme fraiche, at room temperature

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

2 large eggs

3 tablespoons Beurre Monte (poge 1 35)

I large egg yolk

1 111 teaspoons minced Italian parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Kosher salt

1 2 Yukon Gold Potato BUnl (previous recipe)

like to use Yukon Gold potatoes for these blini because they absorb

Small piece of bonatga di muggine (see Sources, page 3 1 5)

more cream than other potatoes and thus result in the best possible

texture. This recipe will make extra batter. but it's a difCicult reClpe to reduce. The batter is best when used immediately. but it can be made up

ottarga is the salted roe of cod or tuna. I use bot1<1rga di muggine. from cod. bec<luse it has a milder flavor tban the tuna. bottarga di

to two hours ahead if storcd in a warm place (the cream may clot if it gets

tonno. It路s sold by the piece and. kept tightly wrapped in the

too cold). Use a scale to weigh the proper amount of potatoes after

refrigerator. will Jast for months. It路s salty and has a pleasant fishy taste.

pureeing them. and make the batter while the potatoes are still warm or

not unUke anchovies. In Italy. it's grated over p<lsta and is wonderful

the blini wiII not have the correct texture.

that way. It would also work perfectly as a garnish for risotto. or grated over saJad.

Place the potatoes in a saucepan with cold water to cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat. reduce the hcat. and simmer until

Warm the tomato confil and stock in a small s<lueepan over medium

the potatoes are thoroughly cooked and tender.

heat. Stir in the olive oil and simmer for a few seconds. Reduce the heat

Peel the warm potatoes and press them through a tamis (sec page

73). Immedtately weigh out 9 ounces of pureed potatoes and place them in a medium metal bowl. Working quickly. whisk the flour into the warm potatoes. thcn whisk in 2 tablespoons creme fraiche. Add 1 egg. whisking until the b3tter is smooth. 3dd the second egg. 3nd then add the yolk. Hold the whisk with some of the batter over the bowL The batter should fall in a thick stream but hold its shape when it hits the batter in the bowL If it is too thick. add a little more creme fraiche. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. He3t an electric griddle to 350掳F. Note. ifyou do not have a griddle. heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Spoon between I and 1 112 tC<lspoons of batter onto the griddle or skillet for each p<lncakc. Cook until the bottoms are browned. 1 to 2 minutes. Then flip them to cook the second side. about 1 minute. The blini should be evenly browned with a small ring of white around the cdges. Transfer the blini to a sm31l b<lking sheet and keep warm while you make the remaining blini. wiping the skillet with

p<lper towel between batches. Serve the

blini as soon as possible. MAKES

The French Loundry Cookbook

ABOUT

J D O Z [ N SMALL B L I N I

and stir in the beurre montc. parsley. and salt to taste. Place a spoonful of the sauce on each plate. Top each plate with 2 blini and grate bottarga over and around the pancakes. MAKES 6 SERVINGS

B U n l w i t h Roasted Sweet Peppers and Eggplant Cnvinr ---------------

O ďż˝ ďż˝

2 tablespoons minced roasted yellow bell pepper (see page 250)

1 % tablespoons Vegetable Stock (page 227) or

Kosher solt

'I" cup Eggplant Caviar (recipe follows)

Chicken Stock (page 226)

2 tablespoons minced roasted red bell pepper (see poge

---------------

250)

1 tablespoon Beurre Monte (page 1 35)

12 Yukon Gold Potato Blini (page 40)

1 % teaspoons minced chives

About 1 112 teospoons Pepper ConfeHi (page 97)

Combine the minced peppers and stock in a small saucepan and simmer

top. Let the eggplant render its excess liquid at room temperature for 1 to

over medium heat until most of the stock has evaporated, Reduce the

2 hours,

heat and stir in the bcurre monte. chives. and salt to taste. Remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 350oP, Rinse the eggplant. pat dry. and rub with some olive oil. Place the

Place a spoonful of eggplant caviar on each plate. Top with 2

halves flesh side down on a. lightly oiled ba.king sheet. Roast for about an

overlapping potato blini and garnish each serving with a quenelle (sec

hour. or until the eggplant is very soft a.nd the skin is wrinkled: there

page 274). or small oval scoop. of roasted peppers, Sprinkle the plates

should be no resistance when tested with a knife. Remove from the oven

with the pepper confetti.

and let sit until cool enough to handle.

P I C T U R E O ON P A G E

MAUS 6

H R V I NGS

Scoop out the eggplant pulp and lightly chop it, Place the pulp in a double layer of cheesecloth and tic it securely into a bundle with

E G G P LA N T

CAVIAR

butcher's twine, leave the ends of the twine about 6 inches long so you can hang the bundle from a refrigerator shelf over a bawl. making sure

1 large eggplant (about I I!" pounds)

it dangles freely. Or simply place the bundle in a colander set over a

Kosher salt

bawl and refrigerate. Let drain for at least 2 hours. or overnight.

'I" cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for roasting

Remove the eggplant from the refrigerator and hold the bundle

'I" teaspoon very finely minced garlic (almost a paste)

over the sink, TWlst and squeeze the cheesecloth to remove as much

112 teaspoon Dijon mustard

additional liquid as possible,

Cut the eggplant lengthwise in half. Score both halves on the flesh side.

processor or mini- chop. Pulse a few times to begin breaking up the

making a crisscross pattern about II. inch deep, Sprinkle bath halves with

eggplant, With the motor mnning. slowly pour2 tablespoons of the olive

Place the pulp (you should have about Ih cup) in a small food

salt and place them scored side down on a baking sheet. Cover with

oil through the feed tube. Continue blending for 30 seconds, The color

another baking sheet and place a heavy object (such as a set of bowls) on

and texture will begin to lighten. Stop the machine and add the garlie, mustard. and salt to taste, Blend again. then add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Continue processing for another minute. then taste and adjust the seasoning, Cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. or for up to 1 week. P I C T U R [ O ON

PAGE

Canapes

The

I m porta nce

of Hollandaise

My mother, a single parent by the time we moved to South Florida. managed restaurants. After I graduated from high school, I washed dishes at one of them, the Palm Beach Yacht Club in West Palm Beach. When the chef there quit. Mom toJd me [ was the chef. I called up one of my buddies and asked if he wanted a job. First thing we did in the morning was c1ca.n the bathrooms. Then wc'd clean the dining room. then set up for lunch. Dinner too. on weekends. Together we ran the show-we did everything.

think. "Hope SO." And then the hollandaise itself. Again. I had no idea why the cgg yolks and clarified buttcr came togcther. I ncver associated it with mayonnaise-I didn't know how mayonnaise was made. Hollandaise was

My older brother. Joseph. was a cook at an upscale French rcstaurant

just a mysterious thing that had a life of its own. You could screw it up i n

nearby. and when we wcre growing up. Joseph tried to keep good food on

a second. and 1 was terrified cvcry morning that. without reason, it

the table for Mom and my four brothers and. eventually. a stcpdad and half-

would fall apart. Joseph taught m e t o whisk in a little boiling water if i t

sister. But other than Joseph. no one was especially interested in food. As

broke-somctimes that worked. sometimes it didn't: I didn't know why.

rar as .. trade. I tended towJrd carpentry. if toward any onc way at all.

To me. hollandaise sauce was magic. Nothing we did at the yacht

Now suddenly I was a chef. The year was 1 975. and the yacht club'5

club had that kind of mystcry for me or was so critical as this ccnturies-

food was basic: hamburgers, French fries. sandwiches, eggs Benedict.

old French emulsion sauce. I worked at the yacht club for two years and

When I didn't know how to broil lobster tail. I'd call Joseph and he'd tell

I made hollandaise every day. It was not only the high point of each

me how. He told me how to cook a prime rib. I learned how to make

morning. tryIng to get the hollandaise perfect: making hollandaise was

omelets. I learned how to cook meal to the right temperature.

the high point of those two years.

Then he walked me through making a hollandaisc sauce. I"d just

Today. I still get great pleasure from making a hollandaise sauce or

turned twenty. I was so excited by that first hollandaise that I ran out and

any of its derivatives. J love a light bearnaise. hollandaise flavored with

told Captain John. the dock manager. about it. Hollandaise became the

shallots and tarragon: I sometimes serve it at the French Laundry with

great daily challenge.

rabbit. It has a real anchoring quality for me because of its importance

I t started with the clarification of butter. I had no idea of the science of cooking. didn't know why butter clarified. so even this was

something apparently ordained by the gods. "Will it clarify today?" I'd

T h e F r e n c h l o u n d r y C o o k book

during my first two years as a cook-every day of those two years. trying to perfect that hollandaise.

FRENCH

LAU N D RY

B EARNAISE

MOUSSELINE

A classical bearnaise should be as thick as

over direct heat in a pan with sloping sides.

in clarified butter in a thin steady stream.

mayonnaise. This recipe is in effect a

but you may feel safer cooking it over a water

When you've acllleved the right consistency

standard bcarnaise with whipped cream

bath. Add egg yolks and half an eggshell of

(about 8 ounces of butter for every 3 yolks).

added at the end to make it light and

water per yolk. Whip the yolks continuously

taste and season with salt and lemon juice.

pourable: Reduce red or white wine vinegar

over the heat: you'll see them tighten up and

then strain through a chinois. Just before

with chopped shallots. chopped fresh

eventually form ribbons. When the eggs are

serving, add chopped fresh tarragon, finely

tarragon. and cracked black pepper until the

thoroughly cooked-the ribbons should be

minced shallots. and freshly ground black

pan is almost dry (the shallots and herbs

thick. the mixture should taste cooked and be

pepper. then stir in whipped cream-about a

should still have plenty of moisture). I do this

hot-remove the pan from the heat and whisk

third as much by volume. C Cl n o p e $

T h e F r e n c: h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

G a r d e n

Can a p e

Our gordcn canapes.

which we serve to guests in the courtyard of the French Laundry. are meant to be simple and elegant bites you can cat standing. with a glass in onc hand: they're especially delicious with Champabrne before dinner.

Conop6s

Abo¥. ShrImp wllh Ayoc;odo So'�o, pag.

T h e F r e n c h L a u n d r y Cookbook

66. Oppaill•• lell. T,um. dip from ·Chlp, one! DIp,· pOge 48;

rlghl: G'UY�'I! Che-ell! Goug�'el, pogl! "8.

GougCl'CS nrc 0 closstcol pI'cpnrotlon arlen Her,,'cd 01 wine tustlngs In Frnncc. The purrs orc Inudc rrOln n snVOI'Y piite

chou x,

01'

Cl'cnnl purr

dough-tlnvorcd hcrc with GI'UyCI'C. They' re best BCI'ved hot out or Iho oven, orfcJ'Jng Ihnt crentnY'dough gl'ntlrtcntlon. Don't ndd the checsc, ond the purr Is 0 hnse rOl' 0 dessel'l.

"Chlp� nod Dip" 01'C, or

COUI'�O.

Ihe

Frcnch Lnunclry cquh'nlent or nn Alnel'lenn rovol'lle. "vhlch we Innke n little n10l'O elognnt hy nddlng- Iruffle to Ihe chlp� nnd to the cl'lmlc r1'oiche dip. The size ond shopc or tho pOlntoc� will dclol'lnlnc ho\" lunny chtJl� cneh will yield. Once you begin olUting the pOlntoc�, worl<: quleldy,

the pOlnloos will oxidize nnd dlscolol'.

Canapes

A N D

' C H I P S

D I P '

PotatO C h I ps w I t h Tl'utCle D i p

Gruyere Cheese Gougeres

O r

__ __ __ __ __ __ __ _

TRUFFLE

cup water

7 tablespoons (3'12 ounces) unsalted butter

1 tablespoon kosher solt, or more to taste

C H I PS

I cup Clarified BuHer (poge

1 25). melted

Kosher solt

1 to 2 russet potatoes

Pinch of sugar

24 to 48 thin slices fresh block truffle (1 T R U F F L E D I P M A. k £ S 'lh C U P

1 1/" cups (5 ounces) all-purpose flour 4 to 5 large eggs

to 1 III ounces)

1/3 cup creme fraiche

1 1/" cups grated Gruy�re (5 ounces)

1/2 ounce fresh

Freshly ground white pepper

block truffle. finely minced

2 tablespoons white truffle oil Preheat the oven to 150°F. Line two baking sheets with Silpats (sec

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

Sources. page 31 5) or parchment paper. In a medium saucepan. combine the water. butter. salt. and sugar and bring to a boil. Add all the flour at once. reduce the heat to medium.

Plaee a Silpat (see Sources. page 3 1 S) on a baking

and stir with a wooden spoon for 2 minutes. or until the mixture forms

sheet and generously brush it with clarified butter; sprinkle with

a ball and the excess moisture has evaporated (if the ball forms more

kosher salt.

quickly, continue to cook and stir for a full 2 minutes). Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a mlxer fitted with the paddle and

Peel the potatoes and trim them into long ovals approximately 2 inches long and l lh inches wide. Using a rnandoline. cut the potatoes

beat for about 30 seconds at medium speed to cool slightly. Add -1 eggs and

into paper· thin ovals. As you work. stack the potatoes in the order you

continue to mix until completely combined and the batter has a smooth.

cut them so that you will be able to match them up as closely as possihle.

silky texture. Stop the machine and lift up the beater to check the

Lay the potato slices on the Silpat in pairs. keeping each one's

consistency of the b:llter. The: batter in the mixing bowl should form a

match at its side. Place one or two truffle slices each on half the potato

peak with a tip that falls over. If it is too stiff. beat in the white of the

slices and cover each with its match. Press and smooth each chip to

remaining egg. Check"brain and. if necessary. add the yolk. Finally. mix in

remove any air pockets between the two potato slices.

'I, cup of the Gruyere and adjust the scasoning "lJlh salt and while pepper.

Brush the potatoes generously with clarified butler and place a

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a 'la-inch plain pastry tip with the

second Silpat over them. Top the potatoes with a baking sheet to weight

gougere batter. Pipe the batter into I -tablespoon mounds on the baking

them and keep them flat. Bake for 25 to 35 minutes. reversing the pan

sheets. leaving about 2 inches between the gougeres as the mixture will

halfway through the cooking process. Remove the chips when they arc

spread during baking. Sprinkle the top of each gougere with about 112

golden brown and drain on paper towels. 0 I P; In a bowl sct over a larger bowl of ice. whip the creme

teaspoon of the remaining grated cheese and bake for 7 to 8 minutes. or

FO R T H E

until they puff and hold their shape. Reduce the heal to 350°F. and bake

fratchc until stiff. Reserve I to 2 teaspoons of thc minced truffle to

for an additional 20 to 25 minutes. When the gougeres arc done. they

garnish the dip and stir the remaining truffle into the creme rraiche.

should be a light golden brown color. When you break one open. it

Add the truffle oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

should be hollow. the inside should be cooked but still slightly moist.

Preheat the oven to 300°F. FOR T H E C H IPS :

Spoon the dip into a serving bowl and sprinkle with the reserved

Remove the pans from the oven and serve the gougcres while hot.

truffles. Serve the chips on the side.

P I C T UR E D ON PAGE 4 7

P l C T UREO ON PAGE 4 7

The French Lound r y Cookbook

M A K E S A u o u r 4 DOZEN GOUGiRCS

MAK ( S 2 4 T O 3 6 C H I P S

Parmiglano-Reggiano Crisps with Goat Cheese Mousse ----------------

�o �

PARM ESAN

C R I S PS

GOAT

I cup finely grated Pormigiano-Reggiano

C H E ES E

-__ __ __ __ __ -__ __ -__ -__ __ __ __

MOUSS E

6 ounces fresh goat cheese

(from a moist piece of cheese)

(or other soft goat cheese)

4 to 6 tablespoons heavy cream

1 tablespoon minced holion persley Kosher salt ond freshly ground block pepper

A clean egg corton

�

ere. these easy Par esa.n crisps form small cups for a. crcamy goat cheese mousse. It s best to bake only half the crisps at a time.

because thcy may harden while you're workingwith them. Preheat the oven to 325°F. FOR THE

PAR M E S A N

C R ISPS :

Line a bakingsheet with a Silpat (see

Sources. page 3 1 5). or use a nonstick baking sheet. Place a 2lh-inch ring mold (see Sources. page 315) inane comer of the Silpat and flU it with I tablespoon of the grated checse. Usingyour finger. spread the cheese into an even layer. Repeat to make 8 rounds. leaving at least I inch between them. Dake for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until the crisps arc a rich golden brown. Remove the pan from the oven and let cool for about 30 seconds to firm the crisps enough so you can rcmove them with a spatula. One by one. remove the crisps and gently press each one into a hollow in the egg carton to form a tulip shape. After

few minutes. remove the cooled

crisps from the carton and make 8 more crisps. FOR

THE

GOAT

CHE E S E

MOU S S E :

Place the goat cheese in a food

processor and process (depending on the cheese used. it may look smooth or crumbly). Pour 1/. cup of the cream through the feed tube and continue to process until the mlXturc is smooth but will hold a shape when piped; if necessary. add a little more cream. Add the parsley and salt and pepper to taste and mix just to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning. The mousse can be refrigerated for 2 to 3 days: let stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes to soften slightly before piping. Placc the mousse in a pastry bag fitted with a medium star tip. Pipe 2 to 3 teaspoons of mousse into each Parmesan ensp and serve. MAK(S

1 6 CRISPS

Canapes

sR S h 1"ill1P w i t h Avoc udo S n l

112 recipe Court Bouillon (recipe follows)

AVOCA D O SALSA

Squeeze of lemon juice, or to taste

6 large shrimp ( 1 6 to 20 per pound) In their shells

3 tablespoons very finely diced red onion

Kosher soh and freshly ground block pepper

3 tablespoons very finely diced cucumber

lie Cup plus 2 tablespoons very finely diced avocado

12 tomato diamonds (see page 203)

1 teaspoon olive oil

S O U I LLON

COURT

ecause both the shrimp and sauce are served on the fork. this is an excel lent canape to serve guests who are slanding.

2 quarts water

I Bouquet Garni (page 63)

2 carrots, cut into V2路inch rounds

6 block peppercorns

saucepan. add the shrimp. and simmer for J minute. Remove from the

I lh cups coarsely chopped anions

I cup crisp, dry white wine,

heat. pour the shrimp and bouillon into a containcr. and let the shrimp

2 leeks. split lengthwise. washed. and

FOR T H E SH R I M p

Bring the court bouillon to a simmer in a large

cool in the liquid. Cover and refrigerate for up to a day before serving. I n a bowl. mixthe red onionand cucumbertogether.

FOR TH E SALSA

cut into 'h-inch pieces (about 1 cup)

Carefully fold in the avocado. taking care not to crush it. Season with the oil. lemon juice. and salt and pepper to taste.

only if cooking seafood)

TO C O M P L E T E

1 lemon

I medium fennel bulb, coarsely chopped (about 2 cups; use

such as Souvignon Blonc

Ih cup dry white wine vinegar

Peel the shrimp. removing the shells but kecping the

tail tips intact. Dry the shrimp on paper towels. Cut each shrimp

Court bouillon means "short" bouillon. or quick stock-an acidic liquid

lenbrthwlse in half down the back and use a paring knife to remove the

flavored with vegetables and aromatics in which fish o r shellfish are poached. The liquid is distinguished by fresh herbs and high aCidity. so

vein that runs the length of the shrimp. Spear each shrimp half on the tip of a fork. Placc a spoonful of salsa

it's important to add that acid. whether in the form of wine. lemon juice.

on the fork behind each shrimp. Arrange the forks on a platter and

and/or vinegar. just before )'ou cook the fish. This is enough to cook one

garnish each mound of salsa with a tomato diamond.

Dungeness crab or 12 10 18 shrimp.

P I C T U R E D ON

PAG[

MA"ES

I 2 CANAPES

Place the water in a large pot. Add the vegetables. bouquet garOl. and peppercorns. Bring to a boil. reduce to a simmer. and add white \\;ne and wine vinegar. Halve the lemon. squeeze in the juice. and add the halves (acid stabilizes proteins in the seafood. giving it a better texture). TO C O O K S H R I M P simmer for

Bring the liquid to a simmer. add the shrimp. and

I minute. Remove the shrimp to a bowl and pour the liqUId

over them. Let them cool to room temperature. then cover and refrigerate until chilled: o r for up t o a day. TO C O O K D U N G E N E S S C RA B

Bring the liquid to a simmer. drop in

the crab. return the bouillon to a simmer. and cook for 4 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let the crab and liqUid cool to 1'0001 temperature. Transfer the crab and liquid to a container. cover. and refrigerate until ready to use. M A I CE S A B O U T

The French laundry Cookbook

2 QUARTS

C a n a p e !>

P't'ct'dlntl �pfl"Od,

It'll

Dunljlt'ncu Clob Solod, poge 92 Abovt' SlIlod

01 Pel,tt' Summer Tomatoes, poge 56, right Vlne·Rlpe Tomalo So.bt'l with Tomoto Torto••, pogt' 57

First Course

S a l a d of Petite S u nl l n e l' TOlllatoes w i t h Vine-Ripe T o m a t o S O I'l>ct

------- o�-----

T O M AT O

C O U L I S MAKES AeoUT

T O M AT O

SORBET

2 1f� pounds tomatoes (6 to 7 medium tomatoes), peeled, seeded, and chopped into

I cUP

I pound tomatoes (about 3 medium tomatoes),

1 tablespoon canolo oil

, 12 teaspoons minced rosemary 1 112 teaspoons minced Italian parsley

peeled, seeded, and chopped into

C H E R RY

1- inch pieces

I - inch pieces

% cup finely grated Pormigiono-Reggiono

T O M AT O E S

4 to 5 dozen (depending on size) assorted small

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1/3 cup finely chopped yellow onion

If� cup extra virgin olive oil

cherry tomatoes, such as Sun Gold, Sweet

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

and Green Grope, at room temperature

GARLIC

Pinch of cayenne

l/� cup plus 2 tablespoons Simple Syrup (page 271) Julienned zest of

Extra virgin alive oil

to taste

Pinch of chopped tarragon

112 orange (removed with

TUlLES

MAKES 2

TO 3 D O Z E N

Six lf2-inch-thick 2.inch-round brioche Croutons (poge 238)

a zester; 1 teospoon), brought to 0 boil in cold water. strained and repeated

4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted buHer,

Basil Oil (page 1 66), in a squeeze boUle

softened but still cool to the touch

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

I large egg white

2 teaspoons garlic paste (very finely minced garlic)

to taste

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

IIA cup all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons sugar

l lf2 teaspoons kosher solt

2 additional times

10Ds

he most intriguing clement of this dish is the tomato sorbet. a great

them until very smooth. Press the mixture through a tamis (see page 73)

example of reducing and concentrating the flavor of an ingredient

(there will be about 1 cup of puree) and return it to the blender. Add the

so that it becomes more intense than the orib';nal. Jt's very refreshing.

remaining sorbet ingredients and blend again. Strain through a ehinois

especially paired with a variety of cherry tomatoes (usc as many

(see page 73). There should be about 1 1/z cups of sorbet basc; cool the

different kinds as possible and the best ava.ilable. preferably ones that

mixture in an icc-water bath or in the refrigerator until cold.

arc vine-ripened) set on a brioche crouton and garnished \\'i lh a light.

Freeze the sorbet in an icc-cream machine. Store the sorbet in a covered

crisp garlic tuile. The garlic tuiles arc best the day they arc baked. They

container in the freezer. Tomato sorbet is best eaten the day it is made. but

have an addictive flavor and can bc catcn alone or as a garnish for salads.

it can be storcd for up to 2 days; you will probably have some left over.

This recipe makes quite a lot. but it's difficult to mix less batter. and the

FOR

excess can always be frozen for another time.

ldtchen towel to remove the excess liquid. Place the tomatoes in a

THE

T O MATO

COUltS:

Squeeze the chopped tomatoes in a

blender with the remaimng ingredients and blend well. Strain the caul is F O R T H E T O M ATO

S O R B E T:

Place the tomatoes in a saucepan and

temperature before serving.

minutes. or until the tomatoes have reduced by half; there may still be a

FOR THE GARLIC T U l L E S:

small amount of liquid remaining.

medium bowl. Whisk the butter in another bowl until it is complctely

Meanwhile. heat lhe oil in a skillet over low heat. Add the onions and cook gently for 7 to 8 minutes. or until tender. Place the reduced tomatoes and the onions in a blender and puree

through a ehinois. Store. covered. in the rcfrigerator. Bring to room

bring to a simmer over medium heat. Cook. stirring oflen. for about 45

The French

Laundry

C o o k b o o k.

Mix together the flour, sugar. and salt in a

smooth and mayonnaise-like in texture. Using a stifr spatula or spoon. beal the egg white into the dry ingredients until completely incorporated and smooth. Whisk in the

Vine-Ripe "ro m a t o Sorbet with Tornato Tartare a n d B a s H

softened butter by thirds. scraping the sides as necessary and whisking until the batter is creamy and without any lumps. Add the garlic and

T O M AT O TA R T A R E

vine-ripe tomoto, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped

Parmesan. mixing until the batter is smooth and shiny. Transfer the

Fleur de sci

batter to a smaller container. as it will be easier to work with. and set aside.

Kosher salt to taste

The batter should be used within a day; any excess batter can be frozen. Preheat the oven to 325Â°F.

Oil

teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

114 teaspoon minced shallots

Place a Silpat (see Sources. page 315) on the counter and spoon about 3/, teaspoon of the tuile batter into one comer of the Silpat. Use the back

of a spoon to spread the mixture into a thin 211z-inch round. The batter

'IB teaspoon rcd wine vinegar

'12 teaspoon minced

chives

doesn't have to be completely even-the SUpat can show through in

Balsamic Gloze (poge 238), In a squeeze boH'e

sections: in fact. the baked luiles look more interestingifthcrc are gaps in

Chive Oil (page 1 66)

the wafers. Continue to form additional tuiles. spacing them about I inch

Tamalo Sorbet (page 56), made with Mandarin tomatoes

apart. Sprinkle each tuile with a small amount of rosemary and parsley. Place the Silpat on a baking sheet and bake for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until the tuiles are browned and crisp. Use a small narrow spatula to

or other vine-ripe tomatoes Fleur de sel

6 Gartic Tuiles (page 56)

remove the tuiles from the pan and store them in an airtight container.

boiling lightly salted water for a few seconds. just until the skins have

loosened. Peel the tomatoes with a paring knifc. TIlis can be done a few

Girl. Green Zebra. and Mandarin arc just a few that work beautifully. It

Repeat to make more tuiles. or freeze the cx'1ra batter for another time. F O R T H E C H E R R Y T O M AT O E S

Blanch the tomatoes in a large pot of

hours ahead and the tomatoes kept covered at room temperature. TO COMPLETE

If the sorbet is very hard. remove it from the freezer

his tomato sorbet dish is simpler to assemble than the salad of petite or cherry summer tomatoes on page 56. The sorbet can be made in a

variety of flavors and colors by chanbring the type of tomato you use: Early has a very clean flavor. so it also works perfectly as a plated canape or aU by itself as an mtcrmezzo. or palate refresher between courses.

for several minutes to soften slightly. Toss the cherry tomatoes and a splash of olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange a. base layer of cherry tomatoes on each crouton and top with

second

sma.ller layer of tomatoes. (The amount of tomatoes used will vary according to their size.) If the tomatoes are too large to balance. cut a

F O R T H E T O MATO TA R T A R E

Toss the tomato with a spr10kling of

fleur de sci and allow it to drain in a strainer set over a bowl for 1 hour. Discard any liquid. Combine the tomato with the remaimng tartare ingredients and

thin slice from the bottom or one slde of them as necessary to keep them

refngerate for a few hours.

from toppling.

TO C O M P L E T E

Pipe dots of balsamic glaze along one side of each

Squecze a ring of basil oil onto each plate, Fill in the center with a

serving plate. Place a larger dot of chive oil 1 0 the center of each plate.

spoonful of tomato coulis. Carefully center a tomato-topped crouton on

Top each pool of chive oil with a spoonful of tomato tartare, place a

each pool of sauce. Sct a qucnelle (see page 274). or small scoop. of

quenelle (see page 274). or small scoop. of sorbet on the tart3re, and

sorbet on top of the tomatoes. top each with a garlic tutle. and serve

sprinkle With a few grains of neur de scI. Lean a garlic tuHe on each

immediately.

quenelle of sorbet and serve immediately.

P I C T U R E O ON

PAGE 5 5

M ", I( E ďż˝ 6 S E R V I N G S

P l C T U R I O ON P "' G I S 5

"", ,,, 1( ( 5 6 H R V I N G S

F i r S ! Course

Big

â&#x20AC;˘

pot

bIa nchi n9

Blanching grecn

vegetables in a big pot with a lot of water and a lot of salt until they arc thoroughly cooked is critical to the finished producl. lt's entirely a color issue. I want green vegetables to be bright. bright green so their color can launch the flavor :md impact of the entire dish. The old saying "We taste first with our eyes" is true. The faster a vegetable is cooked. the greener it becomes. Raw green vegetables appear dull because a layer of gas develops between the skin and pigment. Heat releases this gas, and the pigment floods to the surface. But this happens fast, and pretty soon.

;'IS

the

vegetable cooks. the acids and enzymes in the vegetable arc released. dulling the green color. At the same time. pigment begins to leach out into the water. So the challenge is to fully cook a vegetable before you lose that color. which means cooking it as fast as possible, There are three key factors to achieve this. First. blanch in a large quantity of water relative to the amount of vegetables you're cooking. so you won', significantly lower the boiling temperature when you add the cold vegetables. If you lose the boil. not only do the vegetables cook marc slowly. but the water becomes a perfect cnvironment for the pigmentÂ dulling enzymes to go to work (Ihese enzymes are dest royed only at the boiling point). Furt hermore. using a lot of water mcans the pib'1l1entÂ dulling acids rcleased by the vegetables will be more diluted. Second, usc a lot of salt-about a cup of salt per gallon of water. The water should taste like the ocean. Salt helps prevent color from leaching into the wat<;r. A side benefit IS that the vegetables will be uniformly seasoned when they are done. THE

F I NAL

CRITICAL

S T E P:

Stop the vegetables from cooking by

plunging them into a large quantity of icc water. Leave them there till thcy are chillcd through. then dram them. You can store them in a dry container for a day until ready to use. The results are dramatic. You may need to be patient if your stove isn't strong and your pot is big, oryou may have to do your vegetables in small batches. But it's not hard-you only have to decide to do it. We don't give times for big- pot blanching i n the reCipes. There is only one certain way to tell if a fava or a bean or pea is done: Put it i n your mouth and cat it.

The F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

First Counc

T h e F r e n c h l a u n d r y Cookbook

AbO�f! Bouquf!! Go'nl, pogl! 63, .oghl Ar1lCholf!� 80riOO<,oI<:, pogf! 63

F i r s t Course

S O l lld

or G lohc

1 2 red pearl onions, peeled and on X cut into the root ends 6 white pe<JrI onions, peeled and an X cut into the root ends

A l' t i c h O li.cS w i t h G n l'dcn

H e 1'l)s a n d

Gn.zpncho

6 Artichokes Borigoule (poge 63),

12 yellow wax beans 24 carrot batons (1 inch by 1/. inch, see page 203)

1/.. cup diced (II.. inch) roosted red and yellow bell

cuI crosswise into V.-inch sikes Gray solt 112 cup Herb Salod (page 97)

peppers (see page 250)

2 cups woler

EJdra virgin olive oil

Exira virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon unsolted butter

Balsamic vinegar

Kosher salt

1 teaspoon sugar 24 asparagus tips

1/. cup plus 2 tablespoons diced haricots verts

Balsamic Glaze (poge 238), in 0 squeeze bottle

v. cup plus 2 tablespoons Eggplant Caviar

112 cup Gazpacho (page 35) (optional)

(poge 4 ! )

ooking doesn't 31ways mean creating something new. Sometimes

wa.x beans in boiling water until tender (see Big-Pot Blanching. page

cooking is comhining separate preparations in new ways. This

58): chill in ice water: dr3in. and pat dry. Blanch the carrots in boiling

great vegetarian dish features artichokes barigoule and g31.p3cho. The

water or strained barigoule liquid (reserved from the artichokes) until

rest is a garnish of vegetables to complete the salad: usc any or all of

tender; chill. drain. and pal dry. Cut the wax beans on the diagonal into

those listed above. I think carrot and onion are important to feature

1ft -inch pieces.

because they are used to navor the artichokes. As .. garnish. they give the

Lightly toss all the vegetables in a bowl with a few drops each of extra

dish strength. logic. wholeness.

virgin oil and balsamic vinegar.

Trim the pearl onions as necessary so that they are uniform in sizt and

Arrange about two thirds of the artichoke hcarts around the spoonfuls of

Place I tablcspoon of the eggplant caviar in the center of each plate. will cook evenly. Place them in two separate small saucepans. Add I cup

caviar. Artfully arrange the remaining vegetables. including the

of water, liz teaspoon of the butter. and % teaspoon of the sugar to each

remaining artichokes. in a stack in the center and sprinkle with gray salt.

pan: the water should just cover the onions. Bring to 3 simmer and cook

Lightly dress the herb salad with olive oil and kosher salt and stack a small

over medium heat for20 to 25 minutes. or until the wattr has evaporated

bunch on each saJad. Squeeze dots of balsamic glaze around each plate.

and the onions are tender and glazed but not browned. Remove from the heat and set aside. One vegetable at a time, blanch the asparagus. haricots verts. and

The Fren c h Laundry C o o k b o o k

If desired. spoon a generous tablespoon of gazpacho around each saJad at the table. MAKES 6 H RVI NGS

Artichokes Bartgoule

--------�o�2 cups woter

2 lemons, halved

2 cups dry white wine

1 cup chopped sweet bunch carrots

4 cups Chicken Stock (page 226) or

I cup sliced fennel

Vegetable Stock (page 227)

Jf4 teaspoon kosher salt I Bouquet Gorni (recipe follows)

1 solt·packed anchovy fillet, bones removed,

2 cups chopped onions

soaked in milk to cover for I hour, rinsed,

1 V2 cups olive oil

3 tablespoons minced shallots

6 artichokes

and then soaked and rinsed two more times

l tablespaon plus 1 teaspoon minced garlic

(optionol)

A barigo�e is a kind of stew of artichokes. A lot of restaurants serve it. I-\. but hke tapenade. there,s no standard proportion or classical recipe. We braise the artichoke hearts in olive oil. wine , chicken and/or vegetable stock. with carrots. onions. and garlic. thyme. and parsley. It's

liquid. reserving the liquid. and position the artichoke hearts stem side up over the vegetables. Sprinkle with the salt. cover the pot. and cook for 1 0 minutes. (Cooking the artichokes without liquid to start will help arrest the discoloration that normally occurs when the artichokes cook

a wonderful marriage of navors absorbed by the artichoke.

directly in liquid.)

I n a large container. mLx together the water. wine. stock. and 1 cup ofthe

garni. Place a clean towel over the top of the artichokes to keep them

olive oil.

submerged. Cook at a slowsimmer for 15 minutes. Ifusingthe anchovy.

Pour the reserved liquid over the vegetables and add the bouquet

Hold an aniehoke with the stem end

dry it. chop it. and add it to the artichokes. Cook the artichokes for .10

toward you. Pull orf the very small bottom leaves. Break offthe larger leaves

additional 15 minutes. or until there is no resistance when a heart is

by pushing with your thumb against the bottom of each leaf as you snap it

poked with the tip of a sharp knife. Transfer the artichokes and their

TO P R E PA R E T H E A R T t C H O K E S :

off about 1/2 inch above its base. so you are well above the meaty portion

liquid to a container (the artichokes should be submerged in the liquid)

(which will become part of the heart). pulling it down toward the stem. A

and cool to room temperature. then cover and refrigerate. The

small portion of the bottom of the artichoke leaf should be left anchored to

artichokes can be stored for up to I week.

the base. Continue removing the leaves until the only ones remaining are

P I C T U I H D O N PAGE 6 1

M A K E S 6 4 R T I C H O It (

H E 4 RTS

tender and yellow. Cut off the top two thirds of the artichoke. to where the meaty heart begins. Using a paring knife. cut away the tough dark green

BOUQUET

GARNI

parts of the leavcs to expose the tender heart: This is easily accomplished by first cutting around the artichoke boltom in a strip. Then. holding the

3 outer green leek leaves, woshed

5 sprigs thyme

knife with the tip at a 45-degree angle. trim the base of the artichoke next

5 sprigs I talion parsley

2 boy leaves

to the stem. Peel the stem and cut off the bottom. Remove the fuzzy choke of the artichoke. using a spoon to scrape

A bouquet garni is a classical combmation of aromatic herbs and

the heart clean. Squeeze some lemon juice over the artichoke and

vegetables used to navor liquids: because the herbs and vegetables are

submerge it in the stock mixture. Repeat with the remaining artichokes.

bundled with string. they can be removed easily from the liquid once

Heat the remaining '/2 cup olive oil in a pot large enough to hold the

they've given their navor to it.

hearts in one layer. Add the carrots and cook over medium heat for 2 to

Lay out 1 leek green. Place the herbs on top and wrap in the

21f2 minutes. Add the fennel and continue cooking for another 2 to 2'/2

remaining leaves to form a circular bundle. Tic the bouquet garni

minutes. Add the onions. shallots. and garlic and cook for 4 minutes. or

securely with string.

until the vegetables have softened. Remove the artichokes from the

P l C T U R f D O N PA G E 6 1

Flnl Course

Tarta re. a n d C h i v e O i l S a l a d ot Haric ots Ve r t s . TOITla to __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ ---

6 ounces haricots verts, ends trimmed ond cut into

RED WINE

0__

--------

---------

CREAM

VINEGAR

l.inch lengths

Chive Oil (page 166), in a squeeze boHle

1 112 cups frisee (tender leaves only)

1/J cup hea"Y cream

Extra virgin olive oil

T O M AT O T A R TA R E

I teaspoon red wine vinegor

'12 cup finely chopped Tomoto Confit

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

Kosher salt

Freshly ground block pepper

Tomato Powder (page 233)

(about 24 pieces) (recipe follows)

1 '12 teaspoons finely mInced shallot I teaspoon minced chives

Ih teaspoon balsamic vinegar TOMATO

Blanch the haricots verts in boiling salted water until they arc just

C O N F I T

cooked through (see Big-Pot Blanching. page 58). 2 to 4 minutes. depending on the age and size of the beans. Chill the beans in ice water,

Tomatoes

drain. and dry on paper towels.

Extra virgin olive oil

FOR

THE

T O M AT O TARTARE :

Combine the tomato conCit. shallot.

chives. and balsamic vinegar in a small bowl. Refrigerate until shortly

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper Thyme sprigs

before serving. \Vhisk the cream in a bowl set

TIlis is one of our staple preparations-tomato "petals" slow-cooked in

over a larger howl of ice just until it thickens slightly and you can see the

the oven with olive oil. thyme. and salt. \Ve make tomato confit every day

F O R T H E R E D W I N E V I N EGAR CREAM:

trail of the whisk in the howl. Using the whisk. fold in the red wine

and use it as a garnish in many dishes. The roasting of the tomatoes. not

vinegar and season with the salt and pepper to taste. Do not overheat the

unlike the reduction of a stock. intensifies the flavors.

cream. as it will continue to thicken when it is tossed with the heans. Place a 3-inch ring mold (see Sources. page 3 1 5) on

Cut out the cores from the tomJ,toes and cut a shallow X in the bottom of

a serving plate. Squeeze a ring of clllve oil around the inside of the

each tomato. Drop the tomatoes into a pot ofhoiling sa1ted waterfor a few

TO C O M P L E T E :

mold. Place about 4 teaspoons of the tomato tartare in the center and

seconds to loosen the skin. This will happen very quickly with ripe

use the back or a small spoon to spread the mixture so it rills the

tomatoes. Immediately remove the tomatoes to an icc-water bath to cool.

bottom of the mold. Gently lift orf the ring mold and repeat with the remaining five plates.

Peel the tomatoes and cut them into quarters through the stem. Cut away the inner pulp. seeds. and any remaining ribs to leave a smooth

Toss the heans with just enough of the cream mixture to coat them. Stack about 1/4 cup of the beans in the center of each tomato disk. leaving about a '/4 -inch border of tomato.

"tomato petal." Discard the seeds and save the trimmings to use in other recipes or for tomato powder. Preheat the oven to 250Â°F. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil.

Toss the frisee with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil and a sprinkling of salt.

Drizzle the foil with olive oil and lightly sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lay the tomato petals (inside of the tomato faCing down) on the foil.

For each plate. take about 1/4 cup of the greens. twist it in the palm of your hand to make a compact hundle. and set the bundle on the stack of haricots verts. Sprinkle the top of each with a pinch of tomato powder. MAKÂŁS 6 SERVINGS

Drizzle more oil over thc tops of the tomatoes and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top each piece of tomato with a small sprig of thyme. Place in the oven for } 1h to 2 hours. until the tomatoes have panially dried but still have some of their juices. Discard the thyme and refrigerate the confit in a covered container. with the oil. until ready to use, or for up to } week.

Tke Frenck loundrv Cookbook

"" hen bonns nre trcsh (tnll wonllcl't u lly crisp on thc outs ide nnd (enl ler on tho Insi de, you enn tl'uly clcvntc lhem , FOI' the Snln d at HOI' lcot s Vcr ts. I'vc Il'cntcd the benn s ns nspnrngus Is otten trented in elossleo l French cuis ine. tiCl'vlng ( holl) with n red wino vlnn lgrc ttc. I I'oplncc the aU in the vlnnfgrc ue w i t h CI'CO ln. n d d l n g 0 rIchness thot Isn't usun lly l\S80 clntcd with vinn lgrc ttcs. 01' with bonns. tal' thut I"llutt cr.

leI! RooulnO tornoloe, fot Hďż˝hloom Tomolo Tort. PGge

First Course

HelJ'looln Tonu\ lo Tnrt w i t h N j � oi sc O l i ve Tnpcnndc. M i xed Field Greens, H n d B n s i l Vi n a J g r e t t e

BASIL V I N A I G R ETTE

1 12 c u "

TOMATOE S

TA P E N

'I"

6 to 8 salt·pocked anchovy fillets (I ounce),

cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

5 medium heirloom tomatoes (about 4 ounces each), peeled Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

MA"O A B OU T

V2 cup pocked bosil leoves

bones removed, soaked in milk to cover

V2 cup extro virgin olive oil

for I hou , rinsed, and then soaked

3 toblespoons bolsamic vinegar

and rinsed two mare times

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

V2 cup (4 ounces) ni<;oise olives, pitted

2 teaspoons thyme leaves

V" teaspoon Oijon mustard

1J2 recipe Puff Pastry (poge 297)

V" cup extra virgin olive oil

2 cups mixed baby lettuce leaves

his is my Interpretation of pizza. I love tomatoes. I love pizza. But pizza dough isn't elegant enough for a French Laundry dish. Puff

FOR

THE

BAS I L

VI N AIGRETTE '

Blanch the basil lcaves i n boiling

salted watc r for 1 minute. Drain the leavcs and cool them under cold

My pizzas arc baked with tomatoes that have been partially

running water: drain well and dry on paper towels. Puree the basil in a

dried. which prevents the dough from becoming soggy, then finished

food proccssor. WIth the machille running. slowly add the ollye oil

pastry

IS.

with the surprise of chilled tomatoes. topped by tapenade and a basil

through the feed tube, blending unlil smooth. This can bc done up to 2

vinaigrette.

days ahead: storc 10 the refrigeralor. and bring to room tempcrature before using.

F O R T H E TO MATO E S

Preheat the ovcn to 250°F.

Line a baking sheet with foil and coat with I tablespoon of the olive oil. Cut 2 of the tomatoes into Ill -inch slices (3 per tomato). Place the

PUFF

P A S T R Y,

On a lightly noured surface. roll the pastry

% inch thick. Placc the sheet on a

tray and place in the freezer (frozcn puff pastry is easier to cut)

slices on the baking sheet and sprinkle with sail and pepper. the thyme

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

lea\'es. and 2 morc tablespoons of the oil. Roast the tomato slices for 45

WIlen the pastry IS frozen. cut out 3 - inch rounds of pastry and place

minutes to 1 hour. The slices should have dried out slightly but should

them on the baking sheet. Prick each pastry round scveral times with a

stdl be moist. ll1cse can be prepared a day ahead and stored. covercd. 1O

fork. then top each round with a slice of roasted tomato. Bake for 25 to 35

the refrigcrator.

minutes or unltl the tops and bottoms of the p,lstries arc crisp and they

Slice the remaining 3 tomatoes into !AI -inch slices (6 per tomato)

are well browned on the bottom. These can be baked up to 2 hours ahead. If you baked the tarts ahead, reheat them 111 a hot oven

and place them on a baking sheet lined with a kitchen towel . Scason

TO C O M P L E T E

with salt and peppcr and dflule with the remaining 3 tablespoons olive

for S to ]0 minutes. Add the balsamiC vmegar to the dressing and season

oil. Cover and refrigerate for a minimum of I hour and up to 5 hours. FOR

THE

TA P E N A D E :

Drain the anchovies. pat them dry. and place

with salt and pcpper. Toss the baby lettuces with just enough of the \'in,lIgrelte to lightly coat the greens.

them in a small food processor with the olives and mustard. Turn the

Center a pastry round on each plate. Arrange 3 overlapping slices of

machine on and slowly add the olive oil through the fecd tube to make a

chilled tomato on top of each roasted tomato and spoon I/� teaspoon of

puree. stopping the machine and scrapmg the Sides as necessary.

olive tapcnade onto the slices. Top each tart with a portion of the dressed

Remove the tapenade to a covered con t ainer and refrigcratc until rcady

greens and drizzle each plate with a small amount of the remaining

to servc. You will have marc than you need for this recipe. but the extra

vinaigrette.

can bc refrigeratcd for up to 3 wceks.

FOR THE

into an 8- by 1 2- inch rectangle about

The F r e n c h l o u n d r v C o o k b o o k

MA"( S

6 S( li V I N G S

S n l ncl of B l nel, r"l i s s i o n F i gs w i t h H o u H l e d Sweet

p(' PPCl'S a n d Shaved F e n n e l

c 1 yellow bell pepper, roosted (see page 250),

F I G S

6 large or 9 medium figs,

Extra 'Iirgin oli'lc oil

peeled, and cut into Ij�.inch julienne

preferably Block Mission

Bolsamic 'linegar Kosher soil

2 tablespoons minced shallots

Extra virgin oli'le oil

Extra 'Iirgin oli'le oil

Bolsomic 'linegor

Balsamic ...incgor

v� cup Fennel Oil (page 166)

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots

Kosher salt

I tablespoon Balsamic Gloze (page 238)

Gray salt

F E N N E L

ROASTED

1 til teaspoons fresh fennel buds, blanched in

SALAD

1 small fennel bulb,

P E P P E R S

1 red bell pepper, roosted (see page 250),

boiling soiled woler for 1 0 seconds and dried on poper towels (optional)

top trimmed down to the bulb

peeled, and cut into Ij�.inch jul1ienne

Fennel Powder (page 233)

l ove the licorice flavor in plants such 3S fennel and tarragon.

For this

FOR THE F E N N E L SALAD

Holding the stem end of the fennel bulb 1 0

salad. we make a fennel oil from the fronds. and we garnish il With the

your hand. cut it on a mandollne into paper-thin slices. You \\il1 need at

wild fennel buds. In summer. I'll fllld a fennel patch alongside the road.

least 1/2 cup. Place the shaved fennel in a bowl of cold water. It can be

where the buds arc stdl green and haven'l blossomed. and I'll cut all the

held for a few hours this way.

topS off. We'll

pick out the buds and blanch them. They're explosl\'e.

ThiS salad IS

really about the Napa Valley. where we have the same

problem of overabundance of ftgs as most people

do with to mat oes.

C O M P L ET E

Stir the fennel oil

and balsamic glaze together. They

will not emulSify. and the balsamiC glaze should bead in the oil. Drain the shaved fennel and dry on a towel. Toss the fennel with olive oil. balsamiC vmegnr, and salt to taste.

FOR THE

F I GS

Slice the figs into rounds about

'h lOch thick. You will

Center a

round of fig on each servmg plate. TWirl a few stripS of the

need a tolal of 1 8 slices. Place them on a plate. drizzle lightly With olive

julienned peppers around a fork. place the pcppers on a fig slice. and top

oil and balsamic vinegar. and sprinkle With the shallots and gray salt. Let

wuh another slice of fig. Repeat the process so that there are three slices

them marinate for I hour at room temperature. MEAN WHILE

FOR

shallots and oli..·c for

hour.

THE

011.

PEPPERS

Toss the roastcd peppers wlth thc

balsamiC vinegar. and salt to tastc. Let marinate

of figs and two layers of peppers. then repeat with the remalOing plates. Stack the fennel salad o n top of

the fig slices and sprinkle with the

fennel buds. if USing, Drizzle the fennel Oil/balsamic glaze mL"(ture

arollnd the plates and sprinkle the plates With the fcnnel powder.

F , , � t C O I,l ' \ C

II E A It "I' S

0 F

P A L M

G It 0 \\' E It :

M O O D

As I spoke with the restaurant's purveyors, the

blossomed into on intense love of tropical

elongated peach. It can be boiled and eaten

main thing that struck me was how many

plants. He served in Vietnam as a pilot, and

like a sweet potato, fermented into beer, or

people had backed into their work-almost all

after the war, he continued to fly for the army.

turned into vinegar, and it has long been a

of them hod double lives. Charlie Akwa, a little

Then he Quit the army, got a job as a

staple of Peruvian Indians. But its most

dynamo of a woman who specializes in coviar

commercial pilot, and bought enough land in

valuable asset is its core, the soft white shoots

and Mediterranean fish, fIrst mode a killing on

Hawaii-about thirty-five acres-to turn his

of underdeveloped leaves known as hearts of

Wall Street. Kathleen Weber, who bakes the

hobby into a business. His wife, Pot, become

palm. "Vegetable ivory," Mood calls it.

French laundry's bread, was a nurse and then

his manager.

worked in women's retail before she and her

Shortly thereafter, he met on American

Moad was happy to lend five acres to the American, and the crop flourished. John's wife

husband, Ed, built a brick oven in their

living in Brazil who hoped to plant on

got the word out that they were now growing

backyard.

experimental crop that grew abundantly in

and selling a crop Ihot had rarely been available

South AmeriCa, a variety of palm tree called

before in America-fresh hearts of palm.

John Mood has lived a double life since

J 0 H N

he was a teenager and become infatuated

the peach palm, or pejibaye. It has a hard

with a neighbor's banana tree. The infatuation

fruit, high in storch and oil, that looks like on

The Fren c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

Sales began slowly, at 30 pounds a week to local restaurants. But word of mouth spread

the news in the chef world fast. Within two yeors, the Moods were producing and selling 1 50 to 1 70 pounds a week from ten thousand trees. A friend also started growing the peoch palm, and he now sells to John and Pot when orders come foster than they con handle. The peach palm is proving t a be 0 finoncially viable business. But money's not the issue, according to John, who simply likes to study frUits (not to mention a whole subsection of his hobby, the study, exploration, and growing of tropical gingers) and to search for new genuscs. He's Quick to tell you that hc's got a decent job flying planes. -M.R.

F i r H C O l) n e

H e a r t s or Polin w i t h Puree or Mnl'ro'W Beans und

F' i e l d G r e e n s

--------�Or-

MARROW BEANS

V2 cup (4 ounces) dried morrow beans or Great

cup panko (Japanese bread crumbs;

Northern or other large white beans,

Conolo oil

soaked overnight at room temperature

MARROW

in 3 cups water 4 to 5 cups cold Vegetoble Stock (page 227)

Two 2.inch pieces carrot Two 2·inch pieces leek One 2·inch·long onion wedge

2 tablespoons finely minced shallots I tablespoon finely minced block truffle

see Sources, page 3 1 5)

VA cup cooked morrow beans (from above) BEAN

FILLING

¥.. cup diced hearts of palm (from above)

¥.. cup cooked morrow beans (from above)

VA cup tomato diamonds (see page 203)

3 slices (2 to 3 ounces) Brioche (page 258),

V3 cup Brunoise (page 155)

1 tablespoon minced chives

crusts trimmed

tablespoon minced Itolion parsley

I cup (8 ounces) mascarpone

Kosher solt and freshly ground white pepper

VA cup white truffle oil

1/2 small tomato

3 tablespoons white truffle oil

1 Bouquet Garni (page 63)

SAUCE

Chive oil (page 1 66), in a squeeze bo«le

H EARTS

OF PALM

1 1h cups Truffle-Infused Mushroom Stock

6 sprigs chervil

5 pounds fresh hearts of palm stems

(page 87) or J/A cup truffle juice

(see Sources, page 315) I cup oll·purpose flour I cup milk

(see Sources, poge 315) plus Jt. cup Mushroom Stock (page 227)

1f:z teaspoon sherry vinegar

'm always searching for new foods-it's a constant quest for me. When I saw fresh hearts of palm on a trip to Hawaii. I was bowled over. Their

nutty. almost artichoke flavor works beautifully with French cuisine. They're delicious raw, but poaching them until they're soft, with just a little bit of crunch, enhances their flavor. F O R T H E MARROW B E A N S :

Remove and discard any skins from the

soaking beans that have risen to the top of the water. Drain and rinse the beans. Place the beans in a pot. add cold water to cover by at least 2 inches. and bring to a simmer. It is imponant that the beans do not comc to a hard boil. or they will crack. More skins will float to the surface: remove them and discard. Remove the beans rrom the heat and drain. Rinse the beans under cold water until the water runs clcar. Place the beans in a clean medium saucepan and add enough cold vegetable stock to cover them by at least 2 inches. Add the vegctables and the bouquet garni. Bringthe stock to a simmer and gcntly cook the beans until they arc completely tender. 45 minutes to I hour. The beans can be cooked a day ahead and refrigerated in their liquid. along with the aromatic vegetables and bouquet garni. F O R T H E H E A R T S OF PALM :

Put the hearts in a large pot and cover

with heavily salted water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes,

T h e French L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

Drain, reserving the cooking liquid, and place the hearts of palm in an

process it until it is a silky-smooth puree. There will be about 1 112 cups

icc-water bath to cool; drain again. TIle hearts can be cooked ahead and

of puree. It can be covered and stored in the refrigerator for I to 2 days.

refrigerated in the cooled cooking liquid for up to 2 days. Cut the hearts of palm into sections about IIf2 inches long. Punch out the center of each to leave a wall about 1/.. inch thick (to resemble a beef marrow bone). You need a total of 1 2 pieces. Cut the "punched-out" hearts of palm into lit-inch dice. If there arc not enough to make '/4 cup,

TO F i l l T H E H E ARTS OF PA L M : Stand the hearts of palm on a level

work surface. Using a pastry bag with a plain medium tip. pipe the filling from the boltom of the cavities to the top. evenly distributing the puree so that there are no air pockets along the inside edges. Fill each piece to the top and use the back of a small knife to remove the excess filling

use other scraps or trimmings.

from the ends. Refrigerate the filled hearts of palm for at least 3 hours to

F O R T H E M A R R O W B E AN F I L L I N G : Drain the cooked marrow beans.

allow the puree to chill completely.

reserving Ihe liquid. and discard the vegetables and bouquet garni.

TO C O M P L E T E : For the sauce. place the stock or trurne juice and stock

There wi.ll be about Ph cups of beans: set aside 3/, cup for the sauce.

in a saucepan. add the vinegar. bring to a boil. and reduce by half. Add

Reheat the remaining marrow beans in their liquid in a saucepan until

the shallots. black truffle. and the reserved cooked marrow beans and

hot. Meanwhile. in a food processor. grind the brioche in three to four

diced hearts of palm and heat through. Keep warm.

batches to create vel)'. very fine bread crumbs. [t is Important to do this

TO C O O K T H E H E ARTS OF PALM ; Place the flour. milk. and panko

in batches to ensure even processing: if there arc any large pieces of

crumbs in three separate shallow bowls. Generously coat each piece of

brioche. your filling Will not be smooth. Thcn return all the crumbs to

heart of palm with flour. tapping lightly to remove the excess flour. Dip

the processor and process one last time to combine. Transfer the bread

in the milk. then evenly coat the hearts of palm with the panko crumbs.

crumbs to a bowl.

tapping to remove any excess crumbs.

Drain the reheated marrow beans and discard the liqUid. Place the

Meanwhile. In a large skillet. heat about If. inch of oil over medlUmÂ

hot marrow beans in the food processor and process. stopping often to

high heat. The 011 should not be hot enough to burn the panko crumbs:

scrape the sides of the bowl. until perfectly smooth: this could take up to

It is ready when a few crumbs placed into the oil turn golden brown

5 minutes. (If there is not adequate room In your processor to keep the

almost immediately: if they turn black. the oil is too hot. Stand the

beans below the top of the blade. process them in batches until

hearts of palm on end in the hot 011 and brown for about 5 seconds. or until the ends are golden brown: turn each piece and brown the other

completely smooth.) Once the beans arc perfectly smooth (if you'vc processed them in

end. Lay the pieces on thcir sides and roll them in the pan for about 10

batches. return all the beans to the processor and process to blend). add

seconds. not long enough to brown the crumbs. but long enough to

:\ handful of

Ihe bread crumbs to the processor. As the bread crumbs are

remove the raw taste. Remove the pieces to paper towels to drain.

rough dough-like consistency and

Add the tomato diamonds. brunoise. chIVes. parsley. and truffle oil

begm to pull away from the sides of the processor. At the proper

to the sauce and gently heat through (the sauce will look thicker from all

consistency. the mixture will stick togethcr when pinched but won't be

the garnishes but should still have some "movementďż˝ to it).

added. the mixture Will take on

too wet: you may not need to use all of the bread crumbs.

Place a 4-mch ring mold (see Sources. page 3 1 5) on a plate and

Add the mascarpone 10 Ihc mixture in thirds and process to

squeeze a ring of chive oil around its anterior. Spoon a layer of the sauce

combine. As you add the mascarpone. the mix1ure will loosen to a

into the ring mold. Be careful: If you add too much of the liquid. it may

smooth. thick puree. Blend in salt and white pepper to taste.

break through the ring of ehive oil. Lift off the ring and repeat with the

With the machine running. slowly pour m the truffle oil to create an

remaining plates. Stand two hearts of palm SIde by Side m the center of

emulsion (as ifyou were makmg mayonnaise). It is cxtremely imponant

the sauce on each plate and garnish the top With a spng of chervil. Serve

to add the oil slowly. or Ihe emulSion may break. If the mixture begins to

immediately.

look grainy or broken once all the oil has been added. continue to

"" .-- " I S

S E It V I N G S

FirSI Cou rse

Perhaps the most important pieces of equipment in our kitchen are the chinois-also known in French kitchens as a chtnOis tamlS. or Chinesc sle\'e-and the tamIS. sometimes referred to as a dnlln sie\'e. The first is a comcal fine-mesh sieve that we pass liquids through: the second is a nat fine· mesh sieve that we press pureed solids through. A lamis prevents lumps and ensures that every particle IS the same size. We put a lot of butter (and truffle oil) in mashed potatoes. crcatmgwhat is in dfect an emulsion: potatoes thai h;wc been pressed through a tamis will more easily form a stable emulsion. We also press items such as foie gras or anythmgwith veins or skin we don't want through the tamis to rcmove impuritics.

To o l s o f r e f i n e m e n t :

the c h inois and tamis

The final clarifying stage of a sauce IS passing It through a chinois. French L1undry chefs will pass :1 sauce through a chinols twenty times or more. till It is perfectly clean and all the particles that can muddy it have been caught m its mesh. We're always "c1eanin�( sauces witha ehinois-no liqUid should move from one pOI or containcr into anolher cxccpt through a chinois. We usc a China cap. a coarser conical sieve, to strain bones and \'egelables out of siock. For lobster stock. we crush the lobster shells in the China cap 10 extract as much liquid 35 possible. then we strain that laqUld through a chinois to remove any rcmallllllg impurities. Above all. the 1�lInis and the chinois arc tools that create perfect texture. We put our soups In a blender and then pass them through a chinOls. tapping the rim rather than plunging With a ladle to move the liquid through. We pass our pea puree for the pca soup through a lamis. Ihen we blend the puree in a blender and pass it through a ehmois. The result IS texture on your tongue and palatc thtlt is almost Indcscrlbable. It is the texture of luxul)'.

Fir" COUf"�

Ag n o l ot t i I learned to make agnolotti from the grandmother of 3 family I stayed with i n the Piedmont region of holly. and they're close to my heart. They're the Piedmont version of ravioli: whoever figured them out rcally had it over whoever invented ravioli. They're the perfect sturred pasla. a brilliant design-a kind of sclfÂˇscaling. self-defining pack41ge. They almost sturr themselves. sealing automatically when cut, and there's never any problem with air pockets. It results in the perfect ratio of pasla to stuffing. there's almost no wasted dough. and the size is consistent. I love their little pillow shape and the folds of the pasta that catch the sauce. Also. you can make a lot of them rC311y fast. You just roll out a sheet of pasta. pipe out the filling. fold the dough over that cylinder. pinch the tube at oneďż˝ inch intervals. then cut.

-6}

I love touching 3gnolo(li dough. which is packed with egg yolks. You can incorporate thirty yolkB into a kilo of nour. I roll thc dough ten or fifteen times through the widest scuingofthe pasta machine so it develops 3 silkiness. a shine. Thc filling can he almost anything as long as you're able to separate it into individual portions by pinching the dough: It can't be whole shrimp, but it can be a shrimp mousse. Stuffed agnoloUi freeze beautifully, so you could make a whole pound of nour into dough. You prepare a filling-whatever you want-pipe it onto your pasta. and you have enough agnolotti for a month of Sundays. That's the benutiful thing nbout it, All you need to do is hoi I them up. sauce with beurre monte. mushrooms, or maybe tomato, grate some Parmesan on lOp. and you're done. Following iUC fillings for each season, but once you master the agnolotti shape, you can do just about anything with it.

T h o French Laundry Cookbook

Tho Fronch Laundry Cookbook

First Couru

PaSLO Dough

1 3/� cups (8 ounces) oll·purpose flour 6 large egg yolks 1 large egg 1 112 teaspoons olive all I tablespoon milk

Mound the flour on a board or other surface and create a well in the

rest for a few minutes while you clean the work surface.

center. pushing the nour to all sides to make a ring with sides about

Dust the clean work surface with a little flour. Knead the dough by

J inch wide. Make sure that the well is wide cnough to hold all the eggs

pushing against il in a forward motion with the hccls of your hands.

without spilling.

Form thc dough into :1 ball again and kncad it again. Kcep l..-neading in

Pour the eggyolks. egg. oil. and milk into the well. Usc your fingers

this forward motion until the dough becomes sm",),-smoot.h. The dough

to break the eggs up. Still usingyour fingers. begin turning the eggs in a

is ready whcn you can pull your finger through it and the dough wants to

circular motion. keeping them within the well and not allowing them to

snap back into place. The kneading process can take anywhere from 1 0

spill over the sides. This circular motion allows the eggs to gradually pull

t o 1 5 minutes. Even i f you think you are finished kneading. knead it for

in flour from the sides of the well: it is important that the flour not be

an extra 10 minutes:you cannot ovcrknead this dough. It is important 10

incorporated too rapidly. or your dough will be lumpy. Keep moving the

work the dough long enough to pass the pull test: othenvise. when it

eggs while slowly incorporating the nour. Using a pastry scraper.

rests. it will collapse.

occasionally push the nour toward the egb"8: the flour should be moved

Double-wrap the dough in plastic wTap to ensure that it docs not dry

only enough to maintain the gr"dual incorporation of the nour. and the

out. Let the dough rest for at least 30 minutes and up to I hour before

eggs should continue to be contained within the well. The mixture will

rollmg it through a p3sta machine. The dough can be made a day ahead.

thicken and cvcnlunlly get too tight 10 keep lurningwilh your fingers.

wTapped. and refrigerated: bring to room temperature before proceeding.

When the dough begins thickening and stnrts lifting itself from the

M A IC H A II O U T

OUNeo OOUGH

board. bCbrin incorporating Ihe remaining nour with the pastry scraper TO F O R M PASTA S H E E T S

cutting it into the dough. When the remaining nour from the sides of the

pasta machine at the widest selting. Take one third of the finished pasta

well has been cut into the dough. the dough will still look shaggy. Bring

dough. about 5 ounces. and cut it in half (reserve the remaining dough

the dough together with the palms of your hands and form it into a ball.

for another usc). Keep one half wrapped in plastic warp and run the

It will look flal)' but will hold together.

by lifting the flour up and over the dough that's beginning to form and

FOR

RAVIOLI ·

Set the rollers o f the

other piece through the machine. Fold the dough in half. end to end.

Kncad the dough by pressing it. bit by bit. in a forward motion with

turn it a quarter turn. and run it through the same setting again. Repeat

the heels ofyour hands rather than folding it over on itself:1s you would

this procedure two more times. but the last time. fold the pasta sheet

with a bread dough. Re-form the dough into a ball and repeat the process

lengthwise in half to give you a narrower piece of pasta and run it

scveral times. The dough should feci moist but not sticl,),. lei the dough

through the machine.

The French loundry Cookbook

Set the openings of the rollers down one notch and nm the pasta

in a past I)' bag fitted with a Ih-inch plain tip. Pipe a Htube" of filling

through. Do not fold it over. Decrease the opening another notch and run

across the bottom of the pasta shect. leaving a 3/4 -inch border of pasta

the dough through again. Continue the process until the sheet of pasta is

along the left. right. and bottom cdges.

quite thin (there may be a recommended setting for your machine : if not.

Pull the bottom cdge of the pasta up and over the filling. Seal the

the nex1 -to-the-thmnest setting is usually best). Repeat with the second

agnolotti by carefully molding the pasta over the filling and pressing

piece of pasta and proceed with the specific ravioli recipe.

lightly with your indcx finger to seal the edge of the dough to the pasta

Roll out sheets of pasta (using the desired amount of

sheet: don't drag your flllger along the dough to seal. or you risk ripping

dough) following the instructions for agnolotti. Run the shccts of pasta

the dough. When it is scaled. there should be about If: inch of excess

through the fine cutting blade. If thc sheets of pasta stick to the

dough visiblc abovc the tube of filhng (where you sealed it). Be certain

FOR CAPELLI N I

machine. dust them lightly with flour. The pasta can be used

that you are sealing tightly while pressing out any pockets of air. Seal the

immediately. or it can be dried. Lift a small handful of the noodles and

left and right ends of the dough.

drape them in a nest shape onto a tray dusted with cornmeal. Repeat

with the remaining pasta. forming many small nests. Allow the pasta to

forefinger of each hand together as ifyou were going to pinch something

SHAPE

AGN OlOTTI

Startlllg at one end. place the thumb and

dry completely in a cool. dry arca. If it is damp in the kitchen. line the

and. leaving about I inch of space between your hands and holding your

tray with a towel before arranging the pasta on it. and leave the pasta on

fingers vertically. pinch the filling in I - Inch increments. making about

the towel until it has dned completely. to prc\'em the formation of mold.

'/4 inch of "pinched" area between each pockct of filling. It is important

The dried pasta can be kept for several weeks.

to leave this much Hpinched" area between thc agnolotti. or when the

FORM

S H E E TS

FOR

A G N O lO T T I

Use 112 recipe pasta dough.

agnolotti are separated. they may come unsealed.

divided into two or three pieccs. Run the dough through a pasta machine

Run a crimped pastry wheel along the top edge of the folded-o\'er

as for ravioli. but make the sheets wider. Thc size will vary according to

dough. separating the strip of fillcd pockets from the remainder of the

the pasta machine used. but the shects should be at least 5 inches wide.

pasta sheet. Don't cut too close to the filling. or you risk breaking Ihe

It is important that our pasta sheet be thin enough so that you can sce

seal. Separate the individual agnolotti by cutting through the center of

your fingers through

11. but not so thin th::tt it's translucent. Keep the

each pinched area. rolling the pastry wheel away from you. Working

pasta sheets covered. as they dry out quickly. and proceed with filling

qUIckly. place the agnolotti on a baking sheet dusted with a thin layer of

the agnolott i.

cornmeal . which will help prevent sticking. Don't let the agnolotti touch

FILL

A G N OlOTTI

If you are planning on using the agnolottl

cach other. or they may Slick together.

immediately. have a large pot of lightly salted boiling water ready. Work

Repeat the same procedure on the remainder of your pasta shcets.

with one sheet of pasta at a lime. keeping the remaining sheets covercd.

Either cook the agnololli immediately in the boiling water. or place the

Work quickly. as fresh pasta will dry out.

baking sheet in the freezer. Once the agnolotti arc frozen. place them in

Lay the pasta sheet on a lightly floured work surface with a longside facing you. Trim the edges so they are straight. Place the a1,>11010tti filling

airtight freezer bags and keep them frolen forup to several weeks. Cook the agnolotti while still frozen.

FlrS1 CourU!

Fuvn Beun A g n o l o t t l

F AVA

BEAN

CURRY

FILLING

w i t h CU tTY

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

EMULSION

Eighteen I -inch.long pieces romps

2 to 3 pounds fova beans

2 teaspoons curry powder

3/.. cup fresh breed crumbs

2 tablespoons chopped sea11ions

'I.. cup plus I lh teaspoons masearpone

31.. cup plus 2 tablespoons Vegetable Stock

Kosher soIl

(page

EJll u l s i o n

or scallions, blanched (see Big·Pot BlanchIng.

227), Chicken Slock (page 226),

page 58), chilled in ice water, drained, and dried

ar water Ih recipe POSfO Dough (page

Eighteen I-inch pieces garlic sprouts or garlic

IJ.. cup heavy cream

78)

IJ.. cup creme froiche

chives blanched (see Big-Pot Blanching.

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsalted buller,

page 58), chilled in Ice water, drained, and dried

cut into chunks

ava bean8 have a high stareh contenl that results in a densc puree. perfcet for filling agnalotti. Fava8 arc so delicately navored. I serve

Roll out the dough and fill the agnololli according to the instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approximately 48 agnolotti. For the curry emulsion. toast the curry powder in a

rhem with curry-just a light backdrop to Zlccentuate their navor-in an

TO C O M P L E T E :

emulsion (a scamless combination of ilquid and fat. here slock. or

small saucepan over medium heat unlil il is fragrant. Stir in the scallions

wZiter. and cream).

rmd heat for another minute. Add the 3/. cup stock. the cream. and cr�mc fr.1iche. bring to a simmer. and cook until the liquid IS reduced to 112 cup. Shell the fava beans and pecl thc skins

Swirl in the bUller. When the butler is melted. tr.1nsfer the sauce to a

from the bcans (peeling the bcans bcfore cooking them prevellis gascs

blender. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons stock and blend for 30

from being trapped between the bean and the skin that could c.1use

seconds to emulsify the mixture. Season with snit and pepper and strain

discoloring). Remove the small germ al Ihe side of each bean. You need

into a wide pan.

F O R T H E F/I,VA B E AN F I L L I N G :

I II: cups bc.1ns for the filling; reserve any extra beans for another usc. Blanch the bc.1ns (sec Big-Pot Blanching. page 58) for about 5 minutes. or until lender. and immediately transfer to icc water to chill. When they

Drain the ab'llOlotti. add the agnolotti and ramps to the curry

arc cold. drain the be.,ns and spread on paper towels to drain thoroughly.

emulsion. and toss over low heat to coat with sauce. Divide the agnolotti

Place the beans in a food processor with the hread crumbs. Blend until they come together and form a ball. Add Ihe mascarpone and process again unlil the mixture is smooth. Season to taste with salt. You will have I to 1 1/. cups of filling (enough to fill 48 agnolottO. Refrigerate the mixture until it is cool. or for up to 2 days.

Meanwhile. cook the agnolotti 111 a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until cooked through. 4 to 5 minutes.

T h l! F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

and ramps among six serving dishes and garnish Ihe top of each with 3 garlic sprouts. Serve immediately. M A IC ( S 6 S £ II V I H G S

Swect Potnto Agnol o t l i

w i t h Sngc C I'cll l n . Brown B u t tol', nn d Prosc i u t t o

-------0SWEET

P OTATO

Fi lLING

I III pounds sweet potatoes

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsolted butler

SAGE C REAM

Pinch of kosher soh, or to taste

113 cup sage leaves (from about 4 bunches;

Conolo oil for deep-frying

use thc smaller leaves for the fried sage

2 slices bocon, frozen and cut into 'I".inch dice Pinch of Squab Spice (page 233)

48 tiny sage lcoves (reserved from obove)

leof gamish)

2 tablespoons ( 1 ounce) unsolted butter

I cup creme froiche

or allspice and nutmeg

I cup Bcurrc Monte (page

4 thin slices prosciutto, cut crosswise Into

1 35)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

112 recipe Posta

Dough (page

fine julienne

78)

�

or a f ll agnolot ti. I like a sweet potato filling; it's denser than the . . traditIOnal verSion made from the morc watery pumpkin. With the

cream, butter. and prosciutto. thiS is a very rich and delicious dish.

instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approx.imately 48 agnolotti. TO C O M P LETE

For the sage cream. blanch the sage leaves in boiling

water for 2 minutes. Drain. cool in cold watc r. and drain again. Squeeze F O R T H E S W E E T P O TATO F I L L I N G :

Preheat the oven to 350°F.

the leaves dry.

Cut the ends off the potatoes and wrap the potaloes individually in

Heat the creme fraiehe. beurre montc. and salt over low heal until

aluminum fOil. diViding 4 tablespoons of the butter evenly among them.

hot; do not bOIl. Place the sage m a blender and process to chop it. With

Bake unlll they arc soft. 1 to 2 hours (the time will vary. depending on

the motor running. pour the hot cream mixture through the top and

the size of the potatoes).

blend thoroughly. Stram the cream II1to a large skillet. Check the

Unwrap the cooked potatoes and cut a slit lengthwise m the skin of each. Pull the skin away from the potato and discard. Push the potatoes through a potato ricer while they are hot and place in a saucepan. Place the diced bacon in a skillet. Cook unlil it is lightly browned and the fat has been rendered. Transfer the bacon plcces to papcr towels to dram bneny. then add them to the potatoes. Stir the potatoes over low heJt. seasoning to taste with the squab spice and salt and pepper. Mix m the remaining 1 tablespoons butter.

seasoning and set aside. In a slllall pot. heat oil for deep-frying to 275°F. Fry the small sage leaves bneny. Just until they arc crisp (their color should not change). and drain on paper towels. Place the butter

III a

skillet over medium heat and cook to a nutty

brown color: reduce the heat and keep wnrm. Meanwlule. cook the agnolotti in a large pot of lightly salted boiling water until cooked through. " to 5 minutes.

You will have about 1213 cups filling (enough to fill 18 agnololli).

Drain the cooked agnolotti and nux them gently with the sage cream

Refrigerate the filling until chilled. or for up to 2 days. before filling

sauce over low heat. Divide the agllo\otll among six. serving dishes and

the agnolotti.

drizzle with the browned butter. Scatter some prosciutto over each

Roll out the dough and fill the agnoloHi according to the

serving and garnish with the fried sage leaves. MAKES 6 S£RVIHGS

Flr,t Course

Chm H I l U L

Agnolot L l

w i th

Fo n t i n n an d

Celery ROOL P Ul'ee

C H E STNUT F I L L I N G

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons while truffle oil

1 generous cup peeled roosted fresh chestnuts

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

Vz cup peeled, quartered, and sliced Yukan Gold potato

2 to 3 cups Vegetable Stock (page 227)

(sec NOle) or vacuum·pocked

'12 recipe Pasta Dough (page 78)

3 cups heavy cream

2 boy leaves

SAUC E

1 cup lightly pocked shredded creamy

'/z cup Vegetoble Stock (page 227)

V2 cup sliced onions

'h cup water

1 liz teaspoons chopped garlic

Kosher salt ond freshly ground white pepper

114 cup mascorpone

1 V2 toblespoons unsolted buMer

'12 cup Beurre Monte (poge 135)

3 tablespoons ( ) '/z ounces) unsolted buMcr,

1 Vl cups peeled, quartered, and sliced celery root

1 teaspoon white truffle oil

unsweetened chestnuts

Italian Fontina (2'/z ounces)

01 room temperature

great navor

Scrape the vegetables through a lamis and place the puree in a

combination with the Italian Fontina cheese. celery root. and

medium saucepan. Add the cream and sumner for 10 minutes. then

hestnut is a luxurious wintertime filling. and

whisk in the cheese until it is melted. The sauce can be made up to a day

trurnc oiL

ahead and stored in the refrigcrator. but do not add the cheese until Place the chestnuts. bay leaves.

ready to serve. Reheat the sauce and. if it seems too thick. whisk in

vegetahle stock. and W.lter in a saucepan. bringto a simmer. and cook for

enough stock or water to bring it to the desired consistency. Then whisk

.l bout 1 5 minUles. to reduce the liquid by half and soften the chestnuts.

in the cheese unlil melted.

FOR

THE

C H E ST N U T

FILLING

Pass the sauce through a chinois (sec page 73) into a large skillet.

Strain ilnd reserve the liquid: dise.1rd the bay leaf. Puree the chestnuts in " food processor. With the motor running.

You can usc the back of a slllall iadle to help the liquid pass through the

gradually pour enough of the rcserved liqUid through the feed tube to

strainer. but do not force any solids through. Adjust the consistenc), with

form a thick puree.

the reserved stock and season with salt and peppcr.

Scrape the puree through a tam is (see page 73) and place it in a bowl. Mix in the mascarpone. bulter. and white tnJrne oil. Season to

C O M P LETE

Cook the agnolotti in a large pOI of lightly snlted

boiling w.1lcr until cooked through. -1 to 5 minutes.

taste with salt and pepper. You should have I to 1 '14 cups of filling

Meanwhile. stir the beurre monte and tnJfOe oil into the sauce.

(enough for -18 agnolotti). Cover and refrigerate the filling until cold. or

Dr.l in the cooked agnolotti :md add them to thc sauce. stirring

for up to 2 days. before using. Roll out the dough and fill the agnolotli ;!eeording to the instructions on pages 78 and 79. You should have approximately -18

gently over low heat. Divide the abrnolotti and sauce among six serving bowls and serve immediatcly. MAI«S 6 SERVINGS

agnolotti. F O R T H E S A U C E . Gelltly cook the onions and garlic in the butter in a

N O T E : To peel fresh chestnuts. preheat the oven t o 375°F. With a shnrp

medium saucepan over low heat for 3 to -1 minutes. or until they have

paring knife. cut a slit ali lhe way around each chestnut. Hub with a thin

softened. Add the celery root. potatoes. and enough vegetable stock to

coating of vegctahle oil to keep the shell moist and accelerate the cooking

cover them completely. Simmer until the vegetables arc tender. then

process. Place on a baking sheet and bake for IS minutes. or unlil the

dr.l in. reserving the liquid.

shells hegin to pull away from the chestnuts. Peel while still warm.

The F r e n c h Loundry Cookbook

W h i le

P O L E NTA

� ol"n

A g n o l o t t i w i th S U llllllCI' Tl"\lrrlcs

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsoiled butter,

3/" cup Vegetable Stock (page 227) 3/-4 cup water 1/-4 cup plus 3 toblespoons polenta R I SOTTO

4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter,

at room temperature

l lJ-4 cups corn juice (from 7 to 8 ears; see Note)

(sce Blg.Pot Blanching, poge 58),

1/2 recipe Posta Dough (page 78; Note' If

1 cup Vegetable Stock (poge 227),

or more as needed

chilled in Ice water, drained, and dried

making extra ognolotti to freeze, you will

2 tablespoons finely minced summer truffle

need slightly less than 1 112 recipes dough,)

2 tablespoons finely minced chives

About 1 112 cups water

CORN

J/" cup Arborio ricc

2 cups com juice (from about 1 2 ears; see Note)

SAUCE

1 teaspoon white truffle oil

liz cup mascorpone, at room temperature

2/3 cup corn kernels, blanched until tender

Pormiglano·Rcggiono shavings

hese ab'llolotti contain a delicious filling that owes mueh of ils

Place the 1 1/, cups corn juice in a saucepan and whisk it constantly

impJct to thc corn juicc. which is intensely flavored and also helps

over medium heat until it has thlckencd and reached 1 BO°F. Do not

to blcnd the polcntJ and mascarpone-enriched risotto.

exceed that temperature or it may separate. Remove It from the heat and whisk it into the polenta/rice mixture. You will want to whisk

FO R TH E P O L E N TA �

Bring the vegetable stock and water to a boil in a

saucepJn. While whisking the liquid. pour in the poleOia in

vigorously at first and thcn beat with a spoon to be sure that all the

steady

clements arc evenly blended, There should be approximately 3 cups of

stream and. continumg to whisk. bring to simmer. Place the pot on a

filling (enough for 10 dozen agnolotti), which can be used

diffuser o\'er very low heat. Cook the polenta. stirrl1lg occasionally. for

immediately or refrigerated for up to 2 days: cxtra filling can be frozcn

about 20 minutes. or until it forms a ball as it is stirred and IS fully

if you prefcr. Roll out the dough and fill the agnolotti according to the

cooked. with no raw cornmeal taste. Keep it w.um over very low heat.

directions on pages 78 and 79. You can freeze extra agnolotti. for up to

M E A N W H I L E. F O R T H E R I S OTTO;

Bring the stock and Ph cups water

to a simmer In a saucep.ln. Spread the rice in one layer In a wide saucepan. Add I/z. cup of the hot liquid and stir constantly over medium

a few weeks. FOR

THE

CORN

SAUCE

Placc the corn Juice in a saucepan over

medium heat. Whisk constantly until it has thickcncd and reaches

heat until the hqUld has evaporated. Add another 112 cup and continue as

1 80oP, Slart the blender and pour in thc hOI corn liquid. With the motor

above. adding more liquid oncc the prevIOus addition has e\'aporatcd.

running. add the hutler and blend for a few seconds. Strain the sauce

The rice should be fully cooked for the filling. so if it is not tender aftcr

through a fine· mesh strainer into a saucepan.

you havc used all the liqUld. continue to add smaller amounts of hot

TO C O M P L E T E

watcr or stock until it IS fully cookcd. When It is cooked. it will form a

to 5 l1unutes. Meanwhile, gently reheat the corn sauce (do not boil) and

stid,}' ball as It is stirred (it should be thicker in consistcncy than regular

add the corn. tnlffle. and chives. Just hefore serving. add the truffle oil.

risotto when it is served as a dish). While it is still hot. put the risotto through the fine die of a meat

Cook 48 agnolotti in lightly salted boiling water for 4

Drain the agnolotti and divide them among six serving dishes. Top with the SJuce and sh:\\'ings of Parmesan.

hrrinder (if you do not own a gnnder. you can pass it through a food mill

MAKES

!d R V I N G S

fitted with a fine disk). Hepcat the process, so Ihat you have ground it twicc. Place thc polenta in a clean saucep:m and set It over low heat. Stir in

NOTE O N CORN J U I C E

I f you have a juicer. eut the kernc1s frolll Ihc

the ground risotto to comblne the two mixtures. l\ell1ove from the heat

cob and follow the manufacturer's instructions. I f you do not have a

;lnd stir in the mascarponc and butler until thoroughly combined.

juicer. follow the method on page 172.

F i r s t C o u r s (t

I Ir

Tr u f f l e s

T h o F t o n c h L a u n d r y Cookbook

Fresh tnlmes arc becoming available III marc specialty stores, and they're being grown with varying degrees of success in Olany countries, but none matches those found in France and Italy. It's imponant to usc enough trumes. Orrering just one slice is wasterul. bccause you don't get its full impact. Tnlmes have a short season. The bcst black ones come from Francc: 1 buy large quantities of thcm in scason, pO;:lch thcm in mushroom stock. ;:lnd freeze them for when we need them. The vel)' bcst white trurnesare fromA1ba. Only usc them fresh. Ifyou necd to store them, don't use rice. as somc expens advise-it dries them out. instead, keep them in an airtight cont3iner wrapped with a moist towcl. Trumes grow in clay-based soil and must be carefully scmbbed in warm water.

T n :o; t 1 n g or POlnlocs w i l h B l ne1( 'l'1'ufrlcs

P O TATO

PUREE

MUSHROOM

1 11 ..pounds Yukon Gold potatoes

V.. teaspoon while wine vinegar

RAGOUT

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted buller,

1 2 ounces assorted smarr potatoes In a variety

I cup heavy cream, wormed

of shapes and colors (for example, 3 ounces

1 0 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted buller,

each French Fingerling,

at room temperature, cut into 6 pIeces

Red Russian Fingerling,

at room temperature, cut into 4 chunks

2 tablespoons Brunaise (page 155) I III tablespoons finely minced block truffle

purple Peruvian, and marble potatoes)

V2 teospoon kosher salt, or to toste

I teaspoon kosher solt, or to taste

I tablespoon minced chives

Freshly ground block pepper

I V.. cups Truffle路lnfused Mushroom Stock

2 tablespoons white truffle oil

(poge 87) or 3/.. cup Mushroom Stock

Freshly ground block pepper

(page 227) plus 112 cup truffle Juice

1 6 Truffle Chips (page 48)

(see Sources, page 3 1 5)

his dish combines several different potato preparations-sliccd

half and then into 111ft-inch half circles. Long narrow potatoes can be cut

small. served in a bed of mashed pOlatoes. with chopped trurnes. a

into small circles of the same thickness. and larger potatoes may need to

trume sauce. ilnd erispy trurne potato chips. The contrast of texturcs颅

be quartcred lengthwise before they arc sliced. There will be about

creamy. firm, crunchy-makes the ordinary extraordinary.

3 cups of sliced potaloes.

The h:l rdest part of Ihis dish is the mashed potatoes: in some ways.

Place the potato slices in a strainer and rinse them under cold

it mOlY be the mosl difficult recipe here. heeause there are so many small

watcr. Place them in a pot with I teaspoon salt and cold water to cover by

choiecs that have a big impact. First. you should cook the potatoes i n

2 inches. Bring the water to a boil and cook the potatoes for 2 to 3

thcir jackets s o that the water doesn't penetrate into the meat. You must

minutes. or until just tender. Drain in a strainer. rinse the potatoes

cook them in Ihe right amount ofwaler nt the right tempernturc. a gentle

cOirefully under cold water. and set aside,

heOit. so they don't burst open; don't just throw the potatoes in a pot and

Bring the trume-infused mushroom stock (or the mushroom stock

boil the life out of them. Then let the excess moisture steam off after

and trurne juice) and vinegarto a simmer in a medium saucepan and let

boiling and pass the potatoes through the tamis while they're still hal.

reduce for 3 to 4 minutes. Whisk in the butter. one piece at a time. then

Finally. you must emulsify the bUlter and cream into thcm without

add the cooked potato slices and simmer until the stock thickens to a

brc.1king that emulsification. knowing exactly how much butter and

sauce conSistency (vinegar helps prevent root vegctables such as

cre.1m you c:m gel into them-:lIld then knowing how to get even more

potatoes from overcooking). Add the brunoisc. black trume. and chives

in! Therc's a great lesson in Ihis recipe: how to pay ;lttention to the

and season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm over very low heat.

details ofwhn{ we think is a simple preparation.

F I N I S H T H E P O TATO P U R E E

This recipe involves an exacting

technique for achieving the perfect potato puree. Special care must be PI;lce theYukon Cold potatoes lll a pot with

takcn to maintain a low temperature while emulsifying the potatoes.

enough w.1ter 10 cover them by .11 least 4 inches. Bnng to a boil and boil

butler, Olnd cream. If thc temperature becomes too high. thc butter will

F O R T H E P O TATO P U R E E :

gently until lhe potatoes arc tcnder and offer no resistance when poked

melt as it is added and the potatoes will become oily. You will need to

wilh a knife. 30 to 40 minutes. depending on their si1.e. Drain the

remain with the potatoes throughout the cooking process.

potOltoes and return to the empty pOI ovcr medium heat for a minute to stearn off excess moisture. MEANW H ILE,

FOR

THE

Peel the hot potatoes. pass them through a tamlS (sec page 73). and

plaec the puree in a hcavy pot. Stir MUSHROOM

RAGOUT

CUI the assorted

IJl

the salt and beat With a wooden

spoon o\'er low he l 10 dry them out slightly. Add the cream and butler a

potatocs (do not peel them) into pieces Olpproximately the samc si1.e so

little ilt a time. nlternating thcm and bealing vigorously the entire time.

that their cooking limes will he the same: Cut small round potatoes in

The puree should be holding to the sides of the pan Olnd will be stiffer

The F r e ro c h l a u ro d r y C o o k b o o k

and more difficult to mix than traditional mashed potatoes. If it does not hold. and forms a ban around thc spoon. your pan may be too hot. Should this happen. remove the pan from the heat and beat in a small amount of water to return the potatoes to the proper consistency. Then lower the heat. return the pan to the heat, :md continue adding the cream and butter. Scrve the potatoes as soon as possible. TO

COM PLETE

Sllr the white trome oil into the ragout. Season the

potato puree with additional salt if needed and pepper to taste. Spoon some puree into each serving bowl. Make a well in the ccnter and fill with the potato ragout. Carnish each portion with 2 lname potato chips. MA! « S

T R U F F L E · I N F U S E D

M U S H R O O M

8 5 {1 � V I N G 5

S T O C K

4 ounces summer truffles, or winter (block) truffles 3 cups Mushroom Stock (page 227) Fresh raw trufnes arc excellent if you use them right away. but poaching and freezing them allows you to buy largcr quantities whcn thcy arc in season and storc them for future usc. A �,'1'eat side bcnefit is that you're left with a wonderful truffle-mfused mushroom stock. The navor will depend on the quality of the trume used. Don't expect robust navors when using summer trumcs. The stock will keep frozen for six months. With a mushroom brush. nailbrush. or small scrub brush. carefully scrub the dirt from the trumes under warm water. (If it IS not completely removed. it will stick to the trufncs as they poach and because it is so fine. you Will not be able to Slram the dirt from the stock,) Place the cleaned trurnes

III

a small pot. Strain the mushroom stock through a

chinois (sec page 73) over the trurnes. Discard what rcm,nns I T1 thc chinois. Cover the trumes with a small plate or lid to keep them submerged in the liquid. Heat the stock slowly to a gentle sllmner and poach the trumes for

20 minutes. Remove the trurnes to a small bowl and strain enough stock over to lust cover. Strain the rcmallling stock Into a separate container. Cool in Ihe refrigerator. then place the stock and lrumes with their stock III plastic containers or resealable bags in the freeler. MAI( [ $

ABOUT

2 112

CliPS

(PLU�

TtU

TRUfflB)

F i r " C O \.l , � e

Cnl'nul'oli Risotto with Shaved White "rruttles tl'Oln Albn ----------------

� o �

---------------

PART

P A it T 2

2 to 21f2 cups Chicken Stock (page 226),

2 tablespoons conolo oil 3 tablespoons mInced onions (minced smaller than the graIns of rice)

Vegetable Stock (page 227), Mushroom Stock (page

227), or water, heated to a

simmer (for risotto with white truffles, use

I cup Cornoroli rice

1 cup crisp dry white wine, such as Souvignon Blanc

2 cups Chicken Stock (page 226),

1 '/.. cups chicken stock and I If.. cups water)

Vegetable Stock (page 227), Mushroom Stock

If.. teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste 5 tablespoons (2 112 ounces) unsalted buner

(page 227), or woter, healed to a simmer

31.. cup

(for risono wIth white truHles, use 1 cup

If.. cup freshly grated Pormigiono·Reggiono

chicken stock and

cup water)

heavy cream, whipped to soft peaks

3 tablespoons white truffle oil (for risotto with white truffles) Fresh while truffle (optional)

he best rice for risotto is grown in Italy's Po Valley. You can use

before the wine was added. Scrape the bottom of the pan to keep the rice

Arborio rice. but Carnaroli results in risotto with the creamiest

from sticking. TIle alcohol smell should be completely gone. Increase the

conSistency.

heat and add the stock; it should just cover the rice. When it boils. reduce

If you don't have truffles. the basic risouo could be topped with

the heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Drain the rice. discarding any

Braised Oxtails (page 162). a mushroom ragout. or a variety of

remaining liquid. Spread the rice in a 9- by 13-inch pan or other similar

accompaniments. Base the liquid used in preparing the risotto on the

size container. cover. and refrigerate for several hours. or up to a day.

2 : Put the rice in a saute pan. add 112. cup of the stock and the salt.

finished dish. For example. use chicken stock when you are serving

PART

meat. or vegetable stock for an asparagus garnish. Risotto normally

and stir over high heat until the liquid begins to simmer: it should

requires a cook's undivided attention over a long period of time. TIlis

continue to simmer throughout the cooking. As the stock evaporates. add

two-part method allows you to begin the rice preparation the day before

Ih cup more. Continue to cook. adding more stock as it evaporates and

and makes the final cooking time less than ten minutes. The dish should

tasting the rice from time to time. TIle finished rice will be similar 10 al

be served as soon as it is completed.

dente pasta; it should be thoroughly cooked but with a little "bitcH remaining to it. never mushy. When the rice is cooked. let whatever liquid

PART 1 :

Heat the oil in a deep heavy saute pan over medium heat. Stir

in the onions and cook slowly until softened and translucent but not browned. Mix in the rice and stir for 3 to 4 minutes.

remains in the pan evaporate (you may not use all the stock called for). Remove the risotto from the heat and. using a wooden spoon. beat in the butter a little at time. working quickly so it will "emulsify" with

Add the wine and let it simmer. without stirring. for 2 to 3 minutes.

the rice (creating a creamy risotto) rather than melt into the risotto.

(After adding the wine. lean close to the pan and breathe in the aroma.

Vigorously beat in the whipped cream. cheese. salt to taste. and the white

You will be able to smell and feel the raw alcohol at the back ofyour nose.

truffle oil. if using. Divide among servingbowls. Place shavings of white

Breathe it in several times during the cooking process. and as the

truffle. if using. over the top of the risotto: The truffle can be shaved over

alcohol evaporates and the rice begins to toast. the raw alcohol smell will

the risotto at the table ifyou have a truffle slicer. or it can be sliced in the

dissipate and be replaced with the smell of toasted rice.) When the liquid

kitchen on a mandoline and then scattered over the risotto. Serve

has been absorbed. begin stirring to "toast" the rice. The rice should not

immediately.

brown. but it will separate into individual grains. looking much as it did

P I C T U R E D ON

The French laundry Cookbook

PAGE

MAKlS

6 TO 8 SERVINGS

Ilccntlse the white trurrlc 1!iI such nn

c.xtrnordlnnry girt. nnd beentlsc the

�eo�OIl-rouj:thly October t h l'ough

Dccenlbcl-IH so Hhol't, you wnnt to

Il'cot It os !:4ltnply I\S possible. nR we do In thl!:4 cloHslc Plcdlnorllcsc I'IHOllO.

I lelll'llcd the tcchn lCJuc or roldlng

whipped creon1 IIHO I'lsotto rl'On1

Aloin DucnHHc, Though Ihe crcnln

doet'l "Inelt" out or Its whipped SIOte.

It conts nil the Inol" louol gl'oln:.!

n101'c cosily thon I t would ullwhlppcd,

,,\Iwnys odd your rot nt the end. ,... lth

the pHn orr the hcnt.

F i r s t C o u r s c.'

Potato Gnocchi

o � �

----------------

2 pounds russet potatoes

3 large egg yolks

1 V4 to 1 'h cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons kosher salt, or to t te

hiS rceipe yields more gnocehi than arc needed for a single recipe.

Roll the ball of dough lightly in flour. Pull off a section of the dough

but their versatility makes them an ideal item to have 011 hand. Usc

and roll it by hand on a lightly floured surface into a "snake" about 112

them as a garnish or serve them as a meal. We serve small gnoeehi. but

inch thick. Cut into liz-inch pieces and. using your hand. roll each piece

they can be shaped larger if desired. Part of what makes this a great

into a ball. Then roll the balls on a gnocchi paddle or over the back of a

recipe is that the gnoeehi freeze so well. and they go directly from the

fork to create an oval shapc with indentations. Test one gnocchi by

freezcr into boiling watcr so they're always at the ready.

pJacingit in a large pot of r3pidly boiling lightly sa.lted water. It is cooked

Preheat the oven to 3S0oP.

salt to the dough if necessary, or add a bit more nour if the gnocchi

as soon as it floats to the surf3ce. Taste for seasoning and texture and add Bake the potatoes for I hour. or until they arc completely cooked.

secms mushy. Continue forming the remaining gnocchi. placing them

Split the potatoes. scoop out the flesh. and press it through a potato

on a lightly floured tray until ready to cook.

ricer. Place the hot potatoes on a board or counter. Make a well in the

Place the gnocchi in thc boiling water. Use a slotted spoon or

center. Place a layer of about 112 cup flour in the well. add the egg yolks.

slammer to remove them to a bowl of icc water as they rise to the surface.

then add about 112 cup more flour and the salt. Usc a dough scraper to

Once they have cooled (3bout 2 minutes) drain them briefly on paper

"chop" the potatoes into the flour <:md eggs. This process should be done

towels or a kitchen towel. Lay them in a single layer on a parchment

quickly ( I 5 to 30 seconds), as oven'l'ork-ing the dough will make the

lined baking sheet. Store in the pan in the refrigerator if they will be

gnocchi heavy and stiCky. Add more flour as necessary. The resulting

used shortly (up to a day), or place them in the freezer. Once they arc

dough should be homogcncous and barely sticky on the outside. Shape

frozen. they can be stored in well -scaled plastic bags and kept frolen for

the dough into a ball.

several weeks: cook them while they arc still frozen. Saute the gnocchi as directed on page 91 just before serving. M A K E S A ' O U T 20 O O l f N S M I\ l l G N O C C H I

''''0 I'n1 Fl'll l t wood�Sn101(ed 8 0 1 n1 0 n w i t h Potato G n occ h l u n d B o l s a n1 i c G l oze

------- o�----SALMON

3/" cup Chicken Stock (page 226)

GREENS

3 cups milk, or more as needed

Few drops white wine vinegar

Ih: cup assorted baby beet, orugula, and/or any

1 pound center-cut smoked solman fillet

4112 tablespoons (2'1" ounces). salted butter,

(see Sources, page 3 1 5), trimmed and cut into 6 squares 2 inches by 2 inches by 3/" inch

other biner greens

3/" teaspoon very finely minced shallot

cut into 4 pieces 1 tablespoon Brunoise (page 155)

Lemon oil (see Sources, page 3 1 5)

GNOCCHI

1 tablespoon tomolo diamonds (see page 203)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons canolo oil

1 tablespoon chopped chives

36 Potato Gnocchi (page 90)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

Chive Oil (page 1 66), In a squeeze bOHle

(do not thaw if frozcn)

n this dish. smoked salmon-typically served cold-is heated

Balsamic Gloze (page 23B), in a SQueeze bonle

milk

heat. or add additional cold milk to lower the temperature. If the salmon

and served warm. Take care nol to let the milk get too hot-you don't

overheats. it will poach and thereby lose its beautiful translucent orange

want to poach the salmon or allow its color to change. The milk leaches

color and turn a more opaque. less vibrant color.

salt from the flcsh. which allows one to serve the fish warm and to keep

MEANWHtLE, FOR T H E G N O CCH I :

the intebrrity of thc smol...), cured navor without overpowering the dish

over mcdium-high heat only until fragrant. Pour off the excess oil.

with salt. As with bacon. I prefer a fruitwood smoke to a hardwood

leaving only enough to coat the pan. Toss in the gnocchi and cook for

smoke for the salmon becausc it's swceter.

In a large saute pan. heat the oil

I to 2 minutes. or until golden brown on the bottom. Add the chicken stock, vinegar. and buttcrand let it simmer for a few minutes to reduce to

F O R T H E SALMON :

I n a saucepanjust largeenough to holdthe salmon

a sauce-like consistency. Add the brunoise. tomato diamonds. chopped

pieces in one layer, warm the milk to 1 15°F. Add the salmon. The pieces

chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat.

should be fully submerged in thc milk. Warm the salmon for about

FOR T H E G R E E N S :

7 minutes over very low heat. not allowing the temperature to exceed

Lightly drcss with a little lemon oil and season to taste with salt

1 15°F. If the temperature hebrins to climb, remove the pan from the

In a bowl. mix the baby greens with the shallot.

and pepper. TO C O M P L E T E :

Squeeze a ring of chive oil onto each plate. Arrange

6 gnocchi. with some of the sauce. in the center of cach ring of chive oil.

Place a piece of salmon on the gnocchi. twist a small bunch of greens in the palm of your hand so that they cling together. and set on top of the salmon. Squee7.e dots of thc balsamic gla7.e 10 a line down either side of each plate. crcatmgspots that go from larger to smaller in size. Connect the dots with additlOnal chive oil if )'ou wish.

MAKES

S(RVINGS

F i r s t Course 91

D u ngcncss Cl'nb Salad w i l h C u c u J n b e r Jelly. G l'o.iny Mustard Vinaigl'ette, a n d Fl'isee Lettuce

------ 0----- ---I

cup amaranth, baby beet greens,

C U C U M B E R J E l lY

CRAB

Ih small cucumber, peeled

Ih cup heavy cream

1 'I.. gelatin sheets, soaked in cold water to soften

2 teaspoons whole路grain Oijon mustard

3 tablespoons grated doikon radish

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Extra virgin olive oil

2 '12 cups (about 1 2 ounces) cooked Oungeness

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

1 cup cucumber juice (from about 1 pound

cucumbers, unpeelcd, put through a juicer

SALAD

baby orugulo, or other baby greens

and strained; or purchased from a heolth

crabmeat (from about 2 Oungeness crabs;

food store)

see poge 50 for cooking instrudians)

36 small sprigs dill

hiS is a wonderful chilled salad thanks to the clean and distinctive

of each dish. Place the bowls in the rcfngerator for at le<l.st I hour and up

flavor of thc crab. I've combined it with clcments that have gone

to several hours to set the jelly.

with crab forever-cucumber, frcsh dill, and mustard.

TO C O M P L E T E :

In a medium bowl. whip the hcavy cream until it forms

a ribbon when the whisk is lifted (just before soft peaks). Whisk in the FOR THE

J E L LY:

Using a mandolinc or sharp knifc. cut lengthwise

slices about '116 inch thick from the cucumber. Cut the shccs into narrow strips about Va inch wide. Cut thc strips on thc diagonal to makc small cucumber diamonds: you witl nced about 2 tablcspoons of diamonds.

Toss the greens with the daikon. a drizzle of oil. and salt and white pepper to taste.

Squeezc the gelatin to rcmovc excess watcr and placc it in a small

Fill a 2- to 2lh-inch ring mold. about 1 liz inches high (sce Sources,

mctal bowl. Sct the bowl over <I. pan of hot water and stir to dissolve the

page 3 1 5). with crab salad. Slip your hand undcrthe filled ring and place

gelatin. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the cucumber juice.

the ring over the center of the chilled jelly in one bowl. lift off and

being certain that the gelatin completely dissolvcs.

remove the ring and top the crab salad with a stack of the drcssed

Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons of the jclly into each of six shallow serving

mustard and salt and white pepper to taste. Place thc crabmeat in a bowl and fold in just enough of the whipped cream to bind the salad.

grcens. Rcpcat with the remaining bowls. and scrvc immediately. Of the

bowls and rolate the bowls to distribute the jelly evenly. Making certain

)dtchen is vcry warm. thc gelatin may begin to melt; should this happen.

that the dishes are level. arrange the cucumber diamonds and the dill

return them to the refrigerator briefly to set up before serving.)

sprigs over the jelly kccplllg in mind that the crab will sit in the center

P I C T U R E O ON P A G E 5 2

Tne F r e n c n Loundry Cookbook

MAKES 6 SERYINGS

Chcsnpenl<e Bay Soft-shell Cr'ob " S a n d w i c h "

� O �

----------------

-----------------

SAUCE

1 toblespoon minced shallot

Clarified BuHer (poge 1 25), for panfrying

2 hard·boiled egg yolks

1 tablespoon minced Itolion parsley

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons Chicken Stock (page 226), heated,

2 tablespoons Brunaise (poge 155)

Flour far dusting

Kosher salt ond freshly ground block pepper

6 brioche Croutons (sec page 238)

or hot woler

3 tablespoons cornichan juice

6 pieces Tomato Confit (page 64),

I teaspoon Dijon mustard

Canola oil for deep-frying

112 cup conolo oil

I tablespoon capers, drained

3 tablespoons minced cornichons

6 live soft-shell crabs

�

his is not really a s ndwich. of course. but the d sh was inspired by . my love of traditional soft-shcll crab sandWiches hcapcd with

ot room temperature 1/.. cup baby arugula (or regular orugula cut

into chiHanode-long narrow strips)

reservc. Cut Orr and discard the smaller legs and trim the sides of the body for a smooth edge. Lift off the apron. the pointed piece on the underside

tomatoes and tartar saucc. I've refashioned the ingredients of a classic

of each crab. Remove the iunb"S and any other matter beneath the apron.

tartar sauce-cggyolks. dill pickles. capers-as hard-boilcd yolks. Dijon

Rinse the six bodies and twelve claws and pat dry with paper towels.

mustard. and cornichons. On tap of thc sauce. 1 put a crouton. then the

Heat lIs inch of clarified butter in a large skillet over medium heat.

crab. trimmed down to just its body and claws. then tomato eonfit.

Season the pieces of crab with salt and pepper and dredge in flour.

arugula. and fried capers.

palling off any excess. Add the crab bodies shell side down to the hot butter. The butter should be hot enough to Sizzle when the crabs are

FO R TH E S A U C E: Blend the egg yolks. chicken stock. eorniehon juice.

added. but not so hot that it pops and spurts from the pan. Saute the erab

and mustard in a blcnder. With the machine running. slowly drizz.1e in

bodies for 2 to 3 minutes. until they are golden brown and erusty on the

the oil so the mixlure emulsifies. Remove the sauce to a small bowl and

bottom. Turn the bodies. add the claws. and cook for2 to 3 minutes; turn

stir in the remaining sauce ingredients. The sauce can be refrigerated

the elaws after about I minute. Remove the erab pieces and drain on

for up to 2 days: bring to room temperature before scrving. FOR THE CAPERS

I n a very small pot. heat about 2 inches of canola oil

paper towels. TO C O M P L E T E

Place a spoonful of sauce in the center of each serving

to 250°F. Add the drained capers and fry slowly for 12 to 15 minutes. or

plate. Center a crouton on the sauce and top it with a crab body. Fold a

until bubbles have stopped forming around the capers and they are dry

piece of tomato conCit in half and plaee it over the crab. Arrange 2 claws

and crunchy. Drain them on paper towels.

over caeh piece of tomato and ftnish with a stack of baby arugula.

TO C L E A N T H E C R A B S : Using a pair of scissors. cut off the crabs' faces

Sprinkle thc plates with the fried capers. Serve immediately.

and discard. Cut off the two large claws where they mect the body and

P I C T U R E D O N P A G E 94

Fir�t Course

Above. Chesopll'okc DoV Soft路 shell C.ob 路Sondwlch: poge

The French L a u n d r y Cookbook

93. Opposite.

Oungenen cfob fot Oungenen C.ob Solod, po!)e 92.

Fint Couru�

Cnl'pncola

8 ounces sushl-quollty yellowfln tuna fIIlCf with os lillIe sinew os possible

Yc l l o w t l n

Tunn

1901sc

CClnola 011 far deep·frying

3 tablespoons Tapenode (page 66)

1 teaspoon c.opers, droined

6 quail eggs, hard·boiled (2 minutes) and peeled

Extro oArgln olive 011

1 cup loosely pocked frisec (Inner white leaves only)

SALAD

If.. cup Herb Salad (reclpe follows)

I toblespoon hot paprika

Ih smoll yellow bell pepper

1 teaspoon e)(lra virgin olive 011

6 triangulor·shaped brioche Croutons (page 238)

112 small red bell pepper

V.. tcospoon bol50mlc vinegor

Fleur de sci

I small fennel bulb

Kosher salt

1 toblespoon Pepper Confetti (recipe follows)

his i8 simply another incarnation of the classic salade Ni�oise.

IIlIO a fine julienne. You will need about 2 tablespoons. (Reserve the

which is canned white tuna. hard-boiled eggs. olives. and whatever

remain i ng fennel ror another usc.)

letluecs .1 re around. Thill version uties fresh tuna. hard -boiled quail eggs

I n a very small pot. heat about 2 1 nehes of canolaoil to 250°F. Add the

rather thnn hen eggs. and frislic and a julienne of red and yellow peppers

drained capers and rf)' them over low heat for 12 to 1 5 minutes.or until

rather than a large salad. The olivcs take the rorm or tapenade. a very

they arc dry and crunchy. It·s important to use a low temperature. or the

Intense and cOJlccntr.,tcd preparation that adds clements of anchovy

capers-which arc a bud-will not open. (Frying vegetables dehydrates

and olive oil 10 the dish.

them. or removes all the water. If thc temperature IS too hot. they will brown berore :tll tlte moisture IS removed and they will not df)' out properly

Thinly slice the luna fillet. Lightly oil six pieecs of

or get the crunchy result you seck.) Bubbles will appear around the capers

pla8tie wrap and lay the slices in 6 equal portions on the plastic wrap.

as long as there is still moisture present. When the bubbles are gone. remove the capers from the oil and dl.lin on papertowcls.

F O R Tiff T U t U -

Rub the lap or the tuna slices with a light coating of oil and cover with

Toss the rrisce with the herb salad. bell peppers. rennel.

more plastic wr.,p. Use n nat meat pounder to lightly pound the slices,

TO C O M P L E T E

then usc a rolling pin to roll the lun:. into p:.per-thin shcels.

and capers. Add the olive oil. balsamic vinegar. and a pinch or salt.

Place a 4 -lneh round culler or mold on each picce and run a sharp

Remove the top sheet or plastic wrap rrom one round or tunOl and

knife around the mold and through the wrap. The circles or tuna. still in

invert the rish onto a serving plOlle. Remove the second piece or wrap

the plil8tie. can he refrigerated for a few hours. (ncser.·c the scr.,ps for

and rub a thin coating of olive oil over the tuna. RepeOlt with the

another utle. Buch il8 tuna tartare.)

remaining tuna.

Peel the skin from the peppers with a vegetable

Place a sm:.11 quenel!e (sec page 274), or oval scoop ( l ih

peeler. Cut the peppcrs into sections rollowing their natural lines. and

teaspoons). of tapenade ofr to one side or each circle of tunOl. Place a

peel the edge8 a8 neee8sary. Trim and discilrd the nhs ilnd seeds and cut

small mound of herb salad between the tuna and tapenadc. Trim the

FOR

THE

SA L A D .

the peppers into fine julienne about 1 inch long. You will need about

bottom or each qu:ul egg so that it will stand up. dip the top of the quail

2 tablespoolls of each color pepper.

egg in the paprika. and nestle an egg and a crouton by the bl'feens and

Cut <I vertie<ll slice about IIIl inch thick rrom onc or the outer layers of the fennel bulh. Trim it so that you have a nat piece and cut it

tapcnadc on each plate. SprinkJe the tuna with neur de sel and sprinkle the pepper conrctti over the plates. M A IC U

Tho F r o n d ' L a u n d r y

Cookbook

S ( II V I N G S

P E P P E R

C O N F ETTI

Red, yellow, ond green "foncy" bell peppers

This is a lovely. colorful garnish when bell peppers suil the food-in the gazpacho. say. or the blini with roasted peppers. anything Mediterranean or Provenďż˝al in style. Use " fancy" peppers as they have more flesh and will give a far superior result. Cut off the tops and bottoms of the peppers. then cut the peppers into sections following the natural lines in the skin. Trim away the ribs and seeds. Peel off the skin. using a vegetable peeler. You will be left with smooth flat pieces of pepper about 114 inch thick. Cut the peppers into 111 6-ineh julienne strips. L.1y the pepper strips on the glass tray In the microwave or another microwave dish Ihat has a smoolh surface. Do not place the peppers on a plale or dish that has a textured surface. or the strips WI)) dry unevenly

:lI1d may burn in spots. M icrow3vc on medium-high power for 10 to 15 minutes. or until the strips are dried out. L.1y the finished strips side by side and cut them into small dice. Store in an airtight container at room temperature: the confetti will keep for weeks if the pepper strips have been completely dried. H E R B

2112 tablespoons Iiolian parsley leaves

2'12 tablespoons chervil (in small clusters)

S A L A D

1 tablespoon tarragon lcoves I teaspoon thyme lcoves (for fish

dishes only) 1 tablespoon chive or thyme flowers

2 tablespoons chive lips (about I inch long)

Cently mix the herbs just before serving. We not only use herbs to flavor dishes in their cooking and 3S garnish. we also serve them on their own in the form of an herb salad. Use small sprigs of tender herbs such as chervil, chives. parsley. cilantro. and thyme leaves. For herhs wilh harder stems such as thyme. use just the leaves: because when they're fresh and whole. they're powerful. so )'ou need only a small (Iuantit)'. ",, "' '' l S ... ďż˝ C "' N T

'12 c U P

Fin. CourlC

F .. icassee

or Escn l'gots w i t h n Pu .. ee or Sweet

Roasted S h a l lots .

and H e r b S n l ad

RED W I N E SAUCE

112 cup sliced leeks

CARROT PUREE

2 pieces morrow bone (cut t III inches long)

2 small boy leaves

8 ounces carrots, cut into uniform pieces about

Conolo oll

¥.. teaspoon block peppercorns

1/.. cup chopped carrots

I !emon

About 2 cups heavy cream

1J.. Cup chopped turnips

P/.. cups crisp, dry whlte wine, such as

Kosher salt

1 small clove garlic, crushed

V2 inch wide and 1 inch long ( 1 1J2 cups)

ROASTED S HALLOTS

Souvignon Blanc

\ cup dry f� wine, such as Cobernet Souvignan

SNAILS

6 medium shallots (about 6 ounces)

3 tablespoons port

36 fresh snails In the shell (about \ 112 pints)

Canolo oil

2 tablespoons minced shallots I tablespoon oll·purpose flaur

i 'h cups Vcoi Stock (pogo 222) III cup wotcr

or 36 best·quality conned large snoJls

6 triangular brioche Croutons (page 238)

(if using conned snails)

V.. cup Herb Salad (page 97)

(if using conned snails)

2 sprigs Italian po�lcy

l 1J2 teaspoons minced shallots

I sprig tarragon

2 teaspoons tomato diamonds (see page 203)

I small boy leaf

I tablespoon Brunoise (page 1 55)

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

112 cup Beurre Monte (page 1 35)

C O U R T B O U I L LO N

Kosher solt

3 tablespoons unsolted butter

2 tablespoons minced shallots

2 sprigs chervil

( IF

U S I N G F R E S H SNAILS)

1 tablespoon water

2112 cups water

2 teaspoons minced Italian po�ley

III cup sllccd carrots

Kosher salt

Soak the marrow honcs in a howl of ice water for

After the court bouillon has returned to a simmer. pour it over the

20 minutes. Drain anu remove the marrow from the bones by pushing it

snails and place the bowl in an ice bath. Let the snails and liquid cool

out with your finger. If it doesn', eome out easily. soak the bones brieny

completely.

FO R TH E

M A R RO W;

in warm water. just to loosen the marrow. Soak the marrow pieces in a

When the snails arc cold. remove them one by one from the court

bowl of ice water for 12 to 24 hours. changing the water every 6 to 8

bouillon. reserving it. and remove the snails from the shells: Pl:lce the

hours. (It is imporlant to change the water. because as the blood is

tip of a paring knife or a toothpick behind the head of the snail and

extraeted from the marrow. the water will become saturated with it and

gently pry the snail fonvard. Usc your fingers to carefully pull the snail

the marrow could spoil.)

from the shell while gently twisting the body. (The body follows the

F O R T H E C O U R T B O U I L L O N ( I F U S I N G F R E S H S N A I L S ) ; Placc the

shape of the shell and you need to be careful not to break it.) As you

water in " saucepan.Add the e.nrots. leeks. bay leaves. and peppercorns.

remove each snail. place it in cold wnteT; discard the shells.

Bring to a boil. then reduce the heat to a simmer. Cut the lemon in half.

Strain the court bouillon. Remove the snails from the water and place

squeeze in the juice. and :Idd the lemon halves and wine to the s:luccpan.

them in the bouillon. (Bc careful not to put your fingers in the bouillon: as

Me:lliwhile. rinse thc fresh snails under cold running water :Ind place them in a bowl.

Co ....o t s .

The

French laundry Cookbook

with any stock or sauce. you might add bacteria to the liquid and thereby reduce its shelf life.) Cover the snails and rcfrigcrate for up to 4 days.

F O R C A N N E D S N A I L S ; Rinse the snails under cold running water.

becomes too thick. add a little water. Strain the sauce into a small

Melt the butter in a small sldllet. add the shallots. and cook over low heat

Silucepan.

for 1 to 2 minutes. to soften the shallots, Add the snails and cook gently

T O C O M P L E T E : Preheat the oven to 350oP.

for about 1 to 2 minutes. or just until hot. Transfer the snails. butter. and shallots to a container and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Place the minced shnlJots. tomato diamonds. bntnoise. beurre montc. and water in an ovenproof saucepan and add the snails and

P U R E E : Place the carrols in a saucepan large

roasted shallots. Place the pan in the oven and heat for about 6 minutes.

enough to hold them i n a single layer. Pour in enough ereamjusl to cover

or just until heated through. (O\'crcooking the snails will cause them to

the carrots. Bring to a simmer over medIUm heat and simmer gently for

shrink and toughen.)

FOR

THE

C A R R OT

35 to 45 minutes. or until the carrots arc completely tender. Adjust the heat as necessary so that the cream docs not scorch. Drain the carrots. pressing lightly on them to remove excess cream. Pass the carrots through a tantis (see page 73) and season to taste with salt. The carrots c.:'m be refrigerated in a covered container for up to a day. F O R T H E R O A S T E D S H A L L O T S Âˇ Preheat the oven to 350Â°F.

Meanwhile. reheat the carrot puree in a pan over low heat and season with salt to taste. Rewarm the sauce ilnd season with salt and pepper. When the snails are warm. remove the pan from the oven and stir in the parsley and salt 10 taste. Place 2 to 3 tablespoons of sauce in each serving bowl. Form a qucnelle (see page 274), a small oval scoop. of carrot I)UTCe (dip the

Lightly coat the shallots with oil nnd plnce on a sheet of aluminum

spoon in hot water before forming each quenclle for a smoother shnpe).

foil. Sprinklewilh salt and seal the foil to make a packet. Place the packet

place the quenellc to one Side of the center of the bowl. and lean a

in the oven nnd roast for about I hour. or until the shallots arc tender.

crouton against the quenelle. placing it in the center of the plate. Repeat

Remove the shallots from the oven and let cool until they nrc easy to handle. Peel the shal1ols. Remove the outer layers and discard. Cut the centers into wedges thnt arc smaller than the snails, F O R T H E S AU C E

Heat a film of canoln all in a medium saucepan over

with the remaining bowls. Spoon 6 snni1s. along with some of the vegetable gnrnishes and the sauce In the pan. alongside each crouton. Sprinkle with the herb salad. P I C T U U O O N PAGl

1 00

MAK(ďż˝ 6

S E R V I N GS

medium heat. Add the carrots and turnips and saute for 2 to 3 minutes. or until lightly car.lmehzed. Add the garlic and cook. stirring. ror I minute. Deglaze the pan with the red wine and port. then simmer for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until the liquid has evaporated and the pan i s dry. Meanwhile. dram the marrow and cut it into 1/4 - ineh dIce. There should be about 113 cup. Place the bone marrow and shallots in a medium snucepan nnd cook ovcr low heat for 2 to 3 minutes. or untIl the shallots arc transluccnt. Stir in the flour and cook for another 2 minutes. \Vhile the mnrrow and shallots arc cooking. heat the stoekand water in i\ small saucepan until hot. Add the hot stock and water to the carrots and turnips and simmer for a minute to incorporate the ingredients. \VlllSk the carrots. turnips. and stock into the marrow and shallots. Add the chervil. parsley. tarragon. and bay leaf and sumner for 10 minutes to infuse the sauce with the flavor of the herbs. If the sauce

FIHI Course

Snnlls nl'O now COlnnlOl'c lnlly cult lvatcd In CalltOl'lllo, giving us 0 new Ingl'cdlent to wOI'l<

,vU h , I w(l ntcd to utle therll In 0 wily thot W081\'( �(cl'eotyplenl hut nlHo ,,'usn't so tOl' own,)'

trOI11 t.'ndillonni prcplU'lltlons ns to be conlrived 01' eontllHln�, In t h i s rricosI'lcc, t h eY'l'e

sen:ed ,,'J I l l ronated shallots, n rcd wln c souce nlnde wllh bone nlOl'l'OW t h o t oddH a I'lch

novOl' 10 t h e dlfOih, crouton:'!, and n sweet Clll'rOI purce,

son ked rOJ" 01 lenAt

Note t h n t the 1l10l'row needs to be

hourH ,

F.kou�e 0 1 hco.goh, POOl! 98

1 00

The F r e n c h l o u n d r y C o o k b o o k

F0 i e

ra S

The great thing about foie graB is that it'.

foie gras. I learned how to clcan it. and I learned just when to selVe it and

faie gr<ls-likc the great thing about caviar is that it's caviar. You don't

how to serve it. Foie gras should sit for a day after you cook it so that the

have to do an)1hing to it. It's a luxury on its own. and your job is to try

flavors have a chance to mature together. t o become whole.

to make it show what it really is. Don', be afraid of it. It is probably one

Foic gras is best served cold and barely cooked. Cold. it has much

of the easiest things to prepare well at home. because what you will buy

more body and character to it and shows off its rich creamy texture.

is the same quality as what 1 buy. It's available from only two

That's why I love the foie was au torchon. Most people in America like it

companies in the United States-one in the Hudson Valley. New York;

hot: certainly more foie gras is served hot here than served cold,

onc in Sonoma County. California (see Sources. page 3 1 5)-50 you're going to get a consistent product.

Torchon means "dish tower' in French. and the dish takes its name from the fact that the foie gras pieces are wrapped in a cloth (we use

The only thing you really have to know about faie gras to cook it well

several layers of cheesecloth) into a thick cylinder and then quickly

is that it's composed almost entirely of fat. It has so much rat in it that

poachcd. When 1 serve foie gras au torchon, I always overindulge

you saute it in a dry pan. If it gets too hot. you won I have anything left,

somebody with an extra-thick piece to make a point-too often people

because all the fat will have melted, I've poached it and forgotten it until

are served a minuscule slice of fOle brt'as that's gray. 111at's what many

someone asked, "Hey, what's this floating in the stock?"

people think foie gras is. My aim is to make the torchon a benchmark of

When I left for France in 1984. thcre was no fresh foie STas in thc

what foie b'ras should be.

United States. Nobody was raiSing geese or ducks for it, and it W,IS illegal

Foie gras should be bright and flesh-colored, verging on pink. It

to import uncooked foie gras. so my first introduction to raw foie was

oxidizes very quickly and turns gray. A torchon can be as much as a week

was in France. If I hadn't learned about it In France. I still wouldn't

old, and the oxidation will be deeper. but we cut that part off before

really know how to prepare it. They sClVed it in every restaurant I worked

serving it. Cooks think they can't throw foie gras away because it's so

m. so it was exciting to come back in 1985 nnd fmd It available here

ex-pensive, and the result IS that they sero'e bad foie gras. Whcn that

through Ariane Dabruin's new firm. OÂˇArtagnan.

happens. people wonder what the fuss is all about and why foie gras is so

Foie gras is something that should be left alone. It should be

expcnsive.

minimally garnished. You eat it because you like the tnsle and feel offoie

Cold foie gras-a three-quarter- inch slice of the torchon with some

gras. Foie gras on toast is perfect. FOle b'Tas with a poached pear. a fig. a

brioche and some pickled Bing cherries-is really the ideal way to sen'e

truffle-it's almost impossible to go wrong.

it. It's one of those foods 1 just want to hold in my mouth and let it meh

I n France, I learned to marinate foie gras with nine grams of salt.

and feel it. It's a very sensual thlllg.

one gram of sugar. and one gram of pepper per five hundred grams of Oppo,;le TOfchon' hongln'l ln Q cooler

First COU'$ďż˝ 103

P R E P AR A T I O N S

T E CH N I Q U E S

Foie gras is graded "A.� "B." and He:' based on size and the amount of

TORCH O N :

imperfections and bruises. I recommend using only As and Bs. AnA foie

poached for about ninety seconds. is one of the best ways to prepare foie

This cylinder of foie gras. wrapped in cheesccloth and

gras. usually about a pound and a quarter to a pound and three quarters.

gras. The shon cooking time means vcry little fat will cook oul. giving

which will serve four to six people. costs fifty to seventy-five dollars: so

you a high yield from what is an expensive ingredient. Second. the

for fifty or more dollars. you can have an cxtraordinary experience.

marinating and quick cooking-you're basically just melting pieces back

The ducks raised here for foie gras arc either moulard or muscovy. I usc moulard foie gras rather than muscovy. because I've found that it holds up better in cooking and results in a higheryield,

together again-result in a creamy. buttery fattiness that I love. It·s so lightly cooked. you're ahnosL eating raw foie gras. FRE E Z ER. CURE D ·

This is essentially the samc preparation as the

torchon. but instead ofcookingthe foie gras in waler. we " cook" it in the

I tell people to think of foie grasas Play-Doh. Whenyou're

freezer. We hang it for three months and allow dehydration (the same

cleaning it. don't be afraid you're going to make a mistake, because you

thing that causes freeler burn) to eure the foic gras. It works well. but it's

CLEAN I N G :

can always put it back together. You cut it. you scrape it. you get as many

not a method for people in a hur!)'.

veins out of it as possible. and then you mold it back together again. It

P U RE E D :

takes some hands-on learning to know where the veins arc. how to open

labor- intensive. with lots of cooking and wcighting. For our "terrine."

the foie up to expose the primal)' vein. and then how to eliminate the

we simply collecl our foie gras scraps. marinate them. roll them in cheesecloth. and cook them like the torchon: we then press the foic gras

secondary ones. For cold preparations. marinate thc foie gras with salt.

through a tamis to remove the veins and pipe it into small terrine molds.

sugar. and finely ground pepper (we pulverize whole peppercorns in a

This is a great way to usc scraps of foie gras. and for home cooks who

MARl NATI NG

spice grinder). For the torehon. we usc sci rose. or pink salt. which

don't want to clean the veins one by one. the method is very easy. These

contains nitrites. to delay oxidation and help the color. I f you usc a wine

miniature terrines make wonderful gifts at Christmastime.

or spirit in your marinade. cook off the alcohol first. or it will cook your

P OACH E O :

foie gras. Some people like to marinate foie gras in port: if you do. usc

result. We poach foic gras in its own Cat-a technique called confit-and

white port to avoid staining the foie gras.

serve it whole. This is another high -yield technique. The denSity of thc

S E AS O N I NG

For hot preparations. usc salt and pepper. It·s important

to score the foie gras about a sixteenth oC an inch on all surfaces to allow the salt .md pepper to penetrate the liver.

104

Pureed foic brras is as close as wc get to a tcrrinc. Terrines arc

T h e Fre n c h L o u n d r y C o o k b o o k

We poach foie gras in various liquids. cach with a differcnt

fat and the foie are similar so the liver cooks without losing ;tny of its fat or absorbing the cooking fat. Cooking it in fat also inhibits oxidation. We make foie Gras carpaccio by cutting thin slices of raw fOle gras

Oppaltlf,

l�h lob�l oj moul0.d duel fo,� g'Ol,

"ghl

.olh..g

lh� Io-cho..

Abo��,

I�h

Whol� Roo" ed MouLo.d Dud. fole G'Ol.

page 1 10, r;ghl

lo.chOf' .�od1 Io pOoch

and spooning some hot truffle juice over them just before serving, in

could add anything-shallots. rosemary. bay leaf. or just salt and pcpper.

effect, poaching the foie geas it In. minute,

It's delicious.

Foie geas poached whole in truffle stock results in a lower yield

Whole roasting and poaching IS good for people who love the pure

than a cold preparation like the torchon. but the truffle flavor is worth

tastc of foie gras and don't need thc crispy scared exterior of sautl:ed

the exchange. Also. it's very simple

foie gras.

do: Score the foie gras on all

sides, season it with salt and pepper. and put it In an carthenware dish,

SAUTE E D:

or in a pot, whatever you have. The only thing you need to be careful

going to saute it. This is paramount. Many chefs train their staff to cut

You've got to cut foie gras to the right thickness if you're

about is making sure you have it in a big enough vessel so that you can

foie gT3S too thin, saying. "Be careful. foie gras is really expenSive. � But

get it out when it's cooked, because it will be very soft and fragile.

you necd the propcr thickness-three quarters of an inch to I inch-for

almost molten.

the three textures you want

At the restaurant, we bring truffle stock (a mushroom stock that we've poached truffles in. see page 87) to a boil ::md then pour it over the

III

pcrfectly sauteed foie gras: a crisp

exterior. an almost-molten intenor, and a vcry slim center that is firm because it's still rarc.

foie gras, cover the baking dish. and put It in a 350°F oven for 12 to 15

Sauteed fOic gras serves as a primary gJrntsh in many of our dishes.

mlllutes. We remove it from the oven and let it Sit for a few minutes, then

It goes beautifully with squab-that's a classic pairing. But we also do a

shce it and serve It with some of thc broth. a little shJlIot. some chives or

roasted lobstcr With the squab spice, and the foie goes amazingly weB

chopped parsley. and chopped truffle. That's really how simple it is,

with that lobster. MonkfIsh. another siurdy fish that roasts beautifully.

Sometimes we poach it in a straight mushroom stock instead of the

is deliCIOUS wtth foie gras.

truffle stock Jnd other times we'll pOJch it inside J plastiC bJg for a really

The Hftmg of the ban on the importation mto the United States of

pure foie b'Tas taSle. Poaching is really that simple. While I was thinking

raw poultry products now allows cooks and chefs here to usc frcsh goose

about all lius poaclung of foie gras. it occurred to me that I could poach

foie gras. which is a little bigger than duck foie gras and costs about 20

it in <l bottle of Gewurl.traminer. So I tned II-it's gTeat.

percent more. The goose foie gras is creamier in texture th31l the duck

R 0ASTED

Hoasting: foie gras is another exeitlllg: way to cook the entire

li,'er. Score it. season it, scar It. and pop it

ltl

the ovcn for a few

minutes-just don't forget about It. or no one Will recognize it. Roasting is a little more tricl..)' th<ln poaching because the lobes can fall apart if you're not careful. After seanng. we add some thyme Jnd garhc but you

foie gr3s, and the taste IS fincr and not so fon\'ard, and thus it requires slightly more salt. The French L.1undry uses goose foie gras only in cold preparations-the torchon and tcrrine.

Panched M a u lard D ucI< Fale G r a s (ttl. 7'o'l"cll o n w i t h PiCli.lcd Ch Cl'l'ies

� O �

------------

1 Grode 8 moulord duck foie gros

(approximately 1 'I" pounds; see poge 1 04)

------

About 2 quarts Chicken Stock (page 226), Veal Stock (page 222), or water

v.. cup baby orugulo 1 8 tiny mint leaves

Milk to cover the faie gros

PICKLED CHERRIES

Extra

2 teospoons kosher solt

24 bing cherries with stems

Gray salt and freshly ground block pepper

II.. teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

'h cup red wine vinegor

1 2 to 18 brioche Croutons (page 238)

'I.. teaspoon sugar

II.. cup water

Ih� teaspoon pink salt (see Sources, page 3 1 5)

1/.. cup sugar

virgin olive oil

(op onol)

he torchon is my favorite way to serve foie gras cold-it's almost an

foie gras apart to sec the vein clearly. Turn your knife at a 45-degree

overindulgencc. \Vc form the torchon by placing the foie b'Tas on

angle and make an outward cut at each side of the vcin to butterfly the

cheesecloth and wrapping it into a tight cylinder. then poaching it for

foie gras. Cut far enough to open the folds and expose the interior of the

lcss than two minutes. The torchon is not difficult to make. but it must

liver. Use your fingers and knife to remove the primary vein.

be prepared over a four-day period. Once made. it can be refrigcrated for up to one wcek.

There arc smaller veins throughout the foie gras; the marc you remove. the more refined the finished torchon will bc. Scrapeacross the foie gras with a knife. working from one side of the lobe to the other.

1 : S O A K I N G T H E F O I E G RA S : Rinse the foie gras under cold

removing all the veins. (This can be a painstaking task. but the result is

water; pat dry with paper towels. Place it in an airtight container and

worth it.) Do not worry about the amount of scrapingyou do. but leave

cover with milk. Cover and refrigerate overnight. or up to 24 hours. to

the outside of the foie gras intact. Think of the liver as a picce of Play

DAY

draw out some of the blood.

Doh. No matter how much you cut and scrape the inside. you will be able

DAY 2: C L E A N I N G A N D M A R I N AT I N G T H E F o r E G R A S : Remove

to reform the lobe.

the foie gras from the milk. rinse. and pat dry. Cover it with a damp towel

Cut away and discard any bruised areas (if left. they w:ill cause

and let stand at room temperature for 45 minutes. (It will be easier to

discoloring in the final dish). Once the foie gras is cleaned. fold over the

work with if the foie gras is not icc-cold.)

sides and return it to an approximation of its original shape.

F O I E G R A S ' Pull apart the two lobes. Keep one

F O R T H E S M A L L LO 8 E : Again. with your fingers. follow the line of the

covered with the towel while you work on the other. Remove any

primary vein on the bottom of the lobe and pull the lobe open. The vein

membranes from the outside of the foie gras. To butterfly the large lobe:

should be close to the surface. As with the large lobe. usc a knife to

106

CLEAN T H E

Locate the start of the primary vein at one end of the underside of the

scrape and remove anyveins and bruises. As before. form it back into its

lobe. Slice through the lobe to the vein. following its path and pullingthe

original shape.

The F rench L o u n d r y C o o k b o o k

TO M A R I N AT E T H E F O I E G RA S : Mix the kosher salt, white pepper,

reshape the log into its original shape after it has poached.)

sugar, and pink salt. if using. together. Press the foie gras into a

Bring enough stock or water to cover the foie gras to a simmer in a

container in an even layer l/. to 1 inch thick. Sprinkle and press half of

wide pot. Place the torchon in the simmering liquid and poach for 90

the marinating mixture over and into the liver. Flip the foie gras and

seconds. Immediately remove the torehon to an icc-water bath to cool.

repeat on the other side with the remaining marinating mix. Press a

The foie gras will have lost volume (it loses fat in the poaching) and

piece of plastic wrap directly against the foie gras and enclose the

must be re-formed. Compress the torchon (still in the cheesecloth) in a

container completely in more plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 21 hours.

thin cotton dish towel. Twist and tie the ends of the towel. returning the

OAY

FOR M I N G.

COOK ING.

AND

HANG I N G THE TORCHON:

liver to the original density and pressing out excess fat. Tic the ends of

Remove the liver from the container. place it on a piece of parchment

the towel with string and hang the torchon from a shelf in the

paper. and break it up as necessary to form a loaf about 6 inches long and

refrigerator overnight.

31h inches wide. Using the parchment. roll the foie gras into a log.

F O R T H E P I C K L E D C H E R R I E S ; If you prefer your chernes pitted.

twisting and squeezing the ends of the parchment paper to help compact

carefully remove the pits through the bottom of the cherries. keeping

the foie brras.

the stems intact. One way to accomplish this is by bending a tine of an

Unwrap the foie gras. discard the paper. and transfer tbe log to a piece of cheesecloth about I foot wide by 2 feet long. placing it along a

old fork a t a 90-degree angle and using it to make a hole in the bOltom of the cherry to loosen and remove the pit.

short end of the cheesecloth. Rolling it away from you, roll it up in the

Place the cherries. vinegar. water. and sugar in a saucepan and

cheesecloth into a tight log. again tWisting the ends as you roll to force

bring to a simmer. Immediately remove from the heat. Cool the

the foie gras into a compact log. If possible. have a second person hold

cherries. then refrigerate them in the pickling liquid for a few hours. or

the end of the cheesecloth flat on the work surface as you roll (see the

up to several days.

photograph on page 104).

DAY

4 : Just before serving. remove the towcl and cheesecloth from the

Loop a length of string around your index finger. With the same

torchon. You will sec that the outside of it is gray and oxidized. Cut the

hand. hold one end of the cheesecloth tightly and wtnd the stringaround

ends from the log. Slice the foie gras into six 'I.. -inch slices. Usc a round

the end of the foie gras. Continue wrapptng the string about

cutter (about 2 '1.. inches) to cut away the darkened exterior of the torchon.

1/4 inch into the foie gras; this will help force the foie gras to compress

Place a slice at torehon on each plate. Stack 4 cherries on the side of

into a tight roll. Tie a knot around the cheesecloth. Repeat the procedure

each slice of foie gras. Toss the arugula and mint leaves With a little olive

on the other end. If you have rolled and tied the torchon tightly enough.

all. Garnish each plate with a small stack of greens and sprinkle with

you will see bits of the foie gras being forced through the cheesecloth

gray salt and pepper. Serve with the croutons on the side.

(sec the photograph on page 105). Tie three pieces of string equally

P I C T U R l O ON PA G ÂŁ

1 08

... K E S 6 S l R V I N G S

spaced around the width of the torchon. (These Will be used as guides to

Flrďż˝1 C o u r i e

107

Abov" Pooched Mou/ord Duck Fole Gro� a u Torclloll. page 1 0 6 0pP01;le GewuFl'romlner-Pooched Mou/ord Duck. Fole Gro�. poge / 1 /

108

The French laundry Cookboak

Firsl Course

\09

'''' h o l e Ronsted M a u l a r d D u c k Foic G r a s w i t h A p p l e s u n d B l oci, 'rrufCles

1 Grade A moulord duck foie gras

3 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, cut into

eighths, and trimmed or turned (sec page 203)

(approximately 1 11. pounds; see page 1 04) Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper 5 doves gorlic, unpeeled, lightly crushed 1 small bunch thyme (lh ounce)

golf boll-size block truffle, brushed of dirt under worm water and cut into chunks

I teaspoon chopped chives Gray solt

ne main reason for cooking a foie gras whole is the presentation.

bottom. about 4 minutes: adjust the heat a s necessary. Turn the faie gras

It's very exciting to bring into your dining room an entire scared

over. add the garlic cloves. and brown the boltom. about

and roasted foie. and then to slice it foryour guests. As with most foie gras

3 minutes.

Place the thyme sprigs on top of the foie gras and place it in the oven

preparations. this is very easy to make. Awhole foie brras will serve six. but

for 4 to 5 minutes. When it is done. it will still feel slightly soft to the

it's so good you might just want to make it for four to truly IOdulgc-which

touch. like a rare steak. Remove the foie gras from the oven and let rest

is the point. 1 think. of foie gras.

in the pan for 3 to <1 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 475Â°F.

skillet. Add the apple pieces and saute over medium heat. tOSSing them

While the foie gras is cooking. reheat the rendered fat in the first

Trim a I-inch piece from the tip of the foie gras and heat it slowly in

occasionally. for about 5 minutes. or until they are cooked through and

a large skillet to render about I tablespoon of fat. Remove the piece of

lightly browned. Add the truffle pieces and cook over low heat for

cooked foie gras (it's a snack for the cook) and reserve the fat i n the pan. Score the smooth rounded side of the foie gras in a crosshatch pattern about

VII inch deep. Sprinkle both sides generously with kosher

salt and pepper. Heat a heavy ovenproof straight-sided saute pan over high heat. Add

another 3 to 1 minutes. Stir in the chives. Place the apples and truffles in a serving bowl. Present the whole foie gras at the table. with the apple and truffle garnish. Then remove the foie gras from the pan and cut crosswise into slices about

fat in the skillet over each piece. and garnish with the apples and

the side of the pan to brown its sides. until it is well browned on the

truffles. SprinkJe with fleur de sci and serve. PICTUR(O

1 10

liz inch thick. Arrange on serving plates. spoon a little of the

the foie gras. scored side down. and saute. moving the foie gras against

The French L o u n d r y C o okbook

PAG[

1 05

M A K ÂŁ S 6 S E R V I N GS

Gcwi.\!· z t ra I n i n Cl·-Poached rvl o u l n l'd Ducl< FOie Gros w i t h Gewiirztl' a m i n e r J e l l y

1 Grode A moulord duck foie gros

One 750-ml bottle Gewumtaminer

(approximately 1 V" pounds; see poge 1 04) DRY MARINADE

1 cup waler

l lh gelotin sheets (see Sources, page 31 5),

2 teaspoons kosher soh

soaked in cold woter to sohen

V" teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

Gray salt

1/" teaspoon sugar

Freshly ground block pepper

1/2 teaspoon pink salt (see Sources, page 315)

Brioche Croutons (page 238)

(optional)

ecause foie gras is so rich, I don't like it with the traditional

the liquid until a thermometer reads HOOF. (about 4 minutes). Turn the

sweet wines that often accompany it. such as Sauternes. I prefer

pieces over and continue to heat until the temperature is 1 70°F. Tum

a wine that introduces a counterpoint to that richness. such as a

over a final time and heat until the reading is 1 80°F. Remove the pOI

Gewurztraminer. ThiS dish takes that appreciation a step funher by

from the heat and allow the foie gras to remain in the pan for 4 minutes.

poaching the foie brras in the wme. then clarifying thc wine, gelling it.

(It is important to cook the foie brras gently to reduce the loss of fat.

:md serving it as an accompaniment. Once it is gelled and stirred. the

wh,ich would result 111 a reduced yield.)

white wine takes on the appearance of cmshed ICC. so, for a dramatic

Remove the lobes from the pot and place them in a container. Pour

presentation. I serve the cold slices of wine- poached foie gras on shaved

the poaching liquid over the foie b'Tas. cover the container. and

ice alongside a bowl of the gelled Ge\\ilrztramincr. ThiS must be

refrigerate overnight.

prepared over a three- day period.

DAY 3' Remove the fat that has solidified at the top of the poaching liquid and discard. Remove the fOle gras from the liquid and measure out and

DAY

M A R I N A T I N G T H E F O I E G R A S , Rinse the foie gras undercold

water. Pull apart the lobes and use your fingers to remove excess fat from the bottom of the small lobe (a towel is helpful In gripping the fat).

reserve I cup oCthe liqUid for the jelly. Return the foie gras to the liquid remaining lJl the container and refrigerate. Squeeze the gelatlJl sheets to remove the water and place in a metal

Mix the ingredients together. Sprinkle

bowl. Place the bowl over hot water and stir until the gelatin is dissolved.

them in an even layer on all sides of the two lobes. Place the foie gras In

Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk into the reserved poaching

a covered container and refrigerate overnight.

hquid. Place the bowl m the refrigerator for at least 2 hours for the jelly

FOR THE

DAY

DRY MARINADE

Wrap the lobes of fOle b'Tas in separate pieces of cheesecloth . Tic

to set.

each end snugly with a I>leee of tWlnc. but do not squeeze the foie b'Tas: you

TO C O M P L E T E

want to maintain the natural shape of the pieces.

hot knife (heated under hot water and dried) to cut il into 1/3- ineh slices.

Remove the fOle gras from the cheesecloth and use a

Place the wrapped pieces of foic gras in a pot top side up with

Arrange the slices on a platter. Stir the jelly to break it up. spoon 1I into

the Gewul7.traminer and water. The liqUId should come about halfway up

a small seIVing bowl. ;'Ind seIVe with gray salt. pepper. and the croutons.

the foie gras. Place the pot over low- to- medium hcat and slowly heat

P I( T U R [ O

PAG( 1 0 9

M A It £ S 1 6 � l I C ( S o r f O I t G R A S

F i nt Coune

III

" T O N G U E

I N

C H E E K "

B r u i s e d B e e t Cheeks a n d Venl Tongue ,vith Baby Lcel<s a n d Horseradish C l'CEl ll1

� o �

-----------------

BEEF

-----------------

IIJ cup corral, cut into lh-inch mirepoix

C H EE KS

beef cheeks, (about 1 '/" pounds each)

1 recipe Red Wine Marinade (page 190)

'/" cup creme fraiche, whipped

8 baby leeks (or small scallions if leeks are

(see page 203)

unavailable)

V3 cup leek (white and light green ports only),

V2 cup baby watercress, baby red oak leaf,

cut into Ill-inch mJrepoix (see page 203)

Conola oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 doves garlic, peeled

Flour for dusting

2 sprigs thyme

2 leaspoons extra virgin olive oil

2 cups Veol Stock (poge 222)

112 teaspoon kosher salt

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish

3'12 cups White Veol Stock (page 223),

4 pie<:es Tomalo Confil (page 64), wormed

or mache

briefly in the oven

Chicken Stock (page 226), or woter

VEAL TONGUE

2 veol tongues (about 6 to 8 ounces each)

Dried horseradish (page 233)

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2/3 cup onions, cut into 1f2-inch mirepoilt (see poge 203)

ongue in cheek" is a collective creation. J wanted to make a

impurities that rise to the top, You should have about I cup of marinade.

braiscd beef cheek sabd. a first course that had a lot of character

Remove from the heat.

and also rcflected the familiar pairing of roast beef and horseradish.

Coat the bottom of a large pot with 1!8 inch of oil (usc a large pot and

Beef cheek is very succulent because of its fat content. The original dish

ample oil so that the heat doesn't decrease as the meat is added) and heat

was just the braised beef cheek salad. horseradish greens. and eonCit of

over high heat. Pat the cheeks dry with paper towels. season on both

tomato. But we had already come up with a lot of paired items-the

sides with salt and pepper, and dust with flour. shaking off the excess.

"Bacon and Eggs." "Oysters and Pearls." "Coffee and Donuts"-and

Add the meat to the pot. adjusting the heat as necessary so that the oil

Stephen Durfee. now the pastry chef. said. ,\Vhy don't we use tongue?"'

stays hot but the meat doesn't burn. Brown the cheeks for 2 to 3 minutes

It's logical. not just word play: Tongue comes from the same part of the

on each side. or until well browned and crusty. Remove the meat from

animal. and the flavors are right. This wasn't on the first menu. but it

the fat and place in a small roasting pan: the pieces should fit snugly in

quickly became one of our Signature dishes,

one layer.

Bath the tongues and the cheeks can be made scveral days in

Drain the fat from the pot. add the vegetables from the marinade.

advance if stored properly: refrigerated. with the tongue submerged in

and saute them over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Place the

its cooking liquid and the cheeks wrapped tightly in plastic.

sauteed vegetables over the meat and add the reserved marinade and the veal stock. Add water as necessary to cover the meat with liquid. Bring

F O R T H E B E E F C H E EKS:

Trim the top flap of meat from the cheeks as

Cover the meat with a parchment lid (see page 190). transfer to the

of silverskin running through the meat). Place the pieces of meat in one

oyen. and cook for 3112 to 4 hours. until the meat is very tender. Let the

layer in a tight-fitting container. Pour the marinade over and around the

meat rest in the liquid for 30 minutes. which will allow the meat to

meat. cover. and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight. Preheat the oven to 300°F. Remove the meat from the marinade. Strain the marinade into a ' pot. reserving the vegetables, Bring the marinade to a bail and skim the

1 12

the liquid to a simmer on top of the stove.

well as the silverskin from the bottom (there is no need to trim the piece

The French L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

reabsorb part of the liquid it released during cool;ng. M EA N W H I L E,

FOR THE VEAL TONGUES:

Place the tongues in an

ovenproof pot and add the vegetables. garlic. thyme. salt. stock. and vinegar. Add a Httle water if necessary so that they just float. Bring the

liquid to a simmer (the tongues will swell. so add more water if

Cut the root ends from the leeks and trim the tops. Tie them into a

necessary). covcr with a parchmcnt lid. and braise the tongucs in the

bundle with string. Cook the leeks in boiling salted water for about

oven for about 4 hours. until very tendcr and the sldn pcels off casily. Peel the tongues while still hot. Strain thc stock into a container

3 minutes. or until they arc tender. Remove the bundle to an icc-water

bath to cool. and drain them when they are cold.

(discarding the solids) and add the peeled tongues. They will keep for

TO C O M P U T E :

several days in the refrigerator oryou can freeze them. in the liquid.

cut each one against the grain into 6 slices. Trim the pieces of fat from

To e 0 NT I N U E

Remove the cheeks from the braising liquid. Wrilp and

refrigerate them for il few hours. until firm. or for up to 2 days. Strain the

Tnm the edges of the cold cheeks to square them. then

the cold tonb'l.le and cut each one starting at the base. into 4 slices. about 1/4 inch thick.

liquid (discilrding the solids) into a tall narrow contamcr (it will be casier

Stack the slices of cheek and tongue in four ponions. starting and

to rcmove the fat Ihill accumulatcs at the top) and let stand for about

ending with slices of cheek. Place the Slacks in a pOI or microwave

20 minutes. Remove the fat that has risen to the surface and strain the

container with the reserved braising liquid. Cover the pot and reheat over

braiSing liquid several timcs through a chinois (sce page 'l3). until the

medium heat. or cover with plastic wrap and reheat in the microwavc.

chinois remains clean aher straining. (Straining the braising liquid

Toss the grecns with the oil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

before reducing it rather than afterwill give you a higher yield. as any meat

Rewarm the leeks 10 the microwave or in a saucepan with a little water.

particles left in the liquid would absorb some of the liquid as it reduced.)

Reheat the sauce.

There should be about 2 cups of strained bralsmg liquid. Set aside

Place a spoonful of sauce in the middle of each pl:tte and place a

112 cup to rewarm the meat before serving. Bring the remaining braising

porllon of tongue and check on the sauce. Arrange 2 baby leeks on top of

liquid to a simmcr in a saucepan and reduce to about I cup. Add all but

each and top with a piece of tomato confit. Drizzle wlIh a little more

I;' teaspoon of the horseradish and continue to reduce ulltil it has a

sauce. Place a quenclle (sec page 274). or small oval scoop. of the

saucc consistency: there WIll be about '/4 cup. Strain the sauce and

horseradish cream over the tomato and finish with the lettuces. Grind

discard the horseradIsh.

black pepper over the dish and spnnkle with dried horseradish.

Fold the reserved 1/4 teaspoon horseradish into the cremc fraiche

", ,, 1( [ 5 4 5 ( Jl V ' ''' G S

and rdrigerate.

F i r s t C O \.l n e

113

1 14

The French Laundry Cookbook

The

I m portance

of Staff

Meal

Because the South Florida restaurant business was seasonal. I left the Yacht Club and headed north in the summer t o Newport, then Narragansett, Rhode Island, to look for work. My second year there. I met Roland Henin on the beach i n Narragansett. H e was

But. even more important. I learned how to make the vegetable side

chef at a place called the Dunes Club. a hig hotel: he commanded a kitchen

dishes. how to blanch a green bean. how to make a gratin of cauliflower.

the size of a football field with a crew of forty cooks. and he needed someone

how not to overcook broccoli. At the yacht club. I was used to adding a

to cook stafr meal.

chemical oxidant that kept the vegetables bright. 1 thought that's how

Henin was from Lyon. the gastronomic capital of the Western world.

everyone did it. Then Henin told me about the proper amount of water.

He W:lS an old-school French guy. trained In the European apprentice

and the proper amount of salt in that water. and how to cook and cool the

system. There waS Zeus. and there was Roland. god of cooking. He knew

vegetable. This was e:\1raordinary to me. absolutely unique.

everything. He taught me how to peel a tomato. how to cook a green

Henin taught me how to make a rou."\':. Very. very. very important.

vegetable properly. things no onc had taken the time to show me before.

How to make sauces. reduction sauces. and the clarification process that

He taught me how to mJke stock. how to roast and braise.

happens during reduction. The real fundamentals of cooking.

The stafr mCJI cook is J low man in the kitchen hierarchy. You cook

Staff meal was first about the fundamentals of cooking and how to

meals from scra.ps for peoplc who work in the kitchen. But the Dunes

work with by-products. using scraps to make something tasty. eye足

Club W<lS a high-cnd kitchen .:md Henin was a classical French chef. so

appealing. and satisfying. But the message underlying that was "Can ),ou

our scraps might be the butt from a tenderloin. and with that I learned

be passIOnate about cooking at this level?- Staff mea). Only the staff sees

how to make boeuf bourguignon. We'd have the legs left over from

it. If you can make grcat food for these people. create that habit. have that

butchered chickens and with these I learned to make coq <luvin. I turned

drive. that Sincerity. and keep that with you and take it to another level in

lamb scraps into lamb navarin.

the staff meal. then someday you'Il be a great chef. Maybe.

First Course

1\5

Eric ' s Stn rr Lasagna

------ oďż˝----SAUCE

FILLING

Ih cup olive oil

\ 1/2

1/ 1 2 cups minced yellow onions

3 large eggs

pounds whole-milk ricolto

2 tablespoons minced garlic

1f2 cup chopped parsley

'h cup tomato paste

Kosher 5011 and freshly ground block pepper

8 cups cut-up peeled tomatoes (about

1 2 to 1 4 medium tomatoes,

cut into rough I-inch pieces) If.. cup chopped oregano or If.. cup plus

1 pound 10sogna noodles '/2 pound mozzarella, grated Kosher soh and freshly ground block pepper

2 tablespoons chopped basil

FOR T H E SAUCE:

Heat the oil in a large heavy pot. Add the onions and

garlic and cook gently for 4 to 5 minutes. or until translucent. Add the

ready to assemble the lasagna.

tomato paste and cook. stirring frequently. for 1 0 minutes (the tomato

Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling salted water according to

paste will separate from the oil and the oil will turn a vivid orange). Add

the package directions. Drain the noodles and allow them to cool

the tomatoes and stir to combine.

slightly.

The sauce can be completed on the stove top or in the oven. The

Preheat the oven to 350Â°F. Spread a thin layer (3/4 to I cup) of

oven method requires less attentIOn but a longer cooking time. For !lie

TO A S S E M B L E T H E L A S A G N A .

stove-top, simmer the sauce gently for l lh to 2 hours. stirring and

sauce over the bottom of a 9- by 13-inch baking pan. Place a layer of

scraping the bottom of the pot every 10 minutes to prevent scorching.

noodles (no more than one quarter of them) in the pan. slightly

For the oven method. preheat the oven to 325Â°F. Bringthc tomatoes

overlapping them. Spread half of the ricotla mi,xture evenly over the

to a simmer on top of the stove. cover the pot with a parchment lid (sec

noodles and top with another layer of noodles. Reserve 1 cup of the

page 190). and place the pot in the oven for 3 to 4 hours. (The staff

remaining sauce and spread the rest over the noodles. completely

generally prefers the oven method; because of the indirect. even heat.

covering them. Arrange another layer of noodles on top and cover with

the sauce requires little attention. allowing them to work on other preps

the remaining ricotta mi.xturc. Top with a final layer of noodles and

for the restaurant.)

spoon the reserved sauce over them. Toss the grated mozzarella with salt

When the sauce is done. it should be thick. slightly chun....}. and reduced to about 1 quart. Add the oregano and let cool to room temperature (about I hour) before assembling the lasagna. M E A N W H I L E, F O R T H E F I L L I N G ;

In a large oowl. whisk together thc

ricolta and eggs until completely blended. Add the parsley and salt and

1 16

pepper to taste and mix until well combined. Refrigerate until you are

The French Laundry Cookbook

and pepper to taste (to give the cheese more navor) and sprinkle it over the top. Bake for 45 minutes to I hour. or until the mozzarella is a spotted golden grown and the lasagna is hot throughout. M A I( E S A B O u t 9 S ( R V I N G S

Storr

D re s s i n g r _ --_ __ __ __ __ --Q

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 112 teaspoons chopped

shollots

2 tablespoons plus I teaspoon Dijon mustord

II" cup balsamic vinegar 1 large egg yolk 2 cups conolo oil Kosher soIt and freshly ground block pepper

Place the garlic. shallots. mustard. and vinegar in a blender and blend until well combined. Add the egg yolk and blend again. With tbe machine running. slowly drizzle in the oil until the dressing is thick and emulsiried. Season to taste with salt and pepper. You can refrigerate it in a covered container for I week. M A IC[ S A a O U T 2 c u p s

passion

for

fish

My favorite food to work with is the most

versatile: fish. Fish offers a greater variety of textures and flavors than any other protein. It also has less fat. It's the best ďż˝pcdeslal" for garnishes. It's visually appealing. and it makes a better final impression and impact than meat and poultry. Offal and braised foods arc what ( like to eat most of all. and

I like to cook them too, but fish is almost alive Cor me when I cook it.

The quality of the fish you buy is probably the most critical factor in how good the finished dish will be. I feel very lucl), to have the purveyors I do. The seafood they send me is extraordinary. 1 get sea bass and halibut and cod so fresh that. at the right angle. you can sec a rainbow playing across the flesh. We marvel al it. I get forty black bass that are all the same size. which is critical to the dishes at the French Laundry. The scallops are still twitching. because they were practically just shucked and haven't settled down. For a cook. that's an exciting thing to sec. Unlike meat and poultry. fish is not regulated for quality and it's not inspected. which is why quality ranges are huge. How can you know when fish wasn', handled right? Was it dumped on the boat, is it bruised and beaten up? How was it caught-did it drown in a net. its gills fillingwith water.

I I

its flesh becoming waterlogged? Once caught. was it properly Iced? My fish purveyors are sticklers ahout how their fish is handled. And the handling only starts o n their end. Our fish i s packed in icc or seaweed and stored in ourwalk-IO cooler t o the same position it swims-not haphazardly. and not on its side. The flesh is too easily damaged. This is what

I mean

by treatingyour products with respect. Most people now know the basics in evaluating whole fish for freshness: The fish should have clear. protuberant eyes :md clastic skin and flesh (which should spring back when you touch it. not leave an imprinl). and it shou1d smell fresh. To judge a fillet, use the same criteria-color. smell. and touch. Store whole fish in plenty of icc. makmg sure that the water can dram off as the tee melts: the chlorine in waterc.. n stress the flesh of the fish. Once the fish has been butchered (never morc than a day ahead of cookmg) or ifyou\'e bought steaks or fillets. store the fish on. but not in. icc: the water could seep lOto the flesh and affect the texture and cookmg. Always keep 1 11 mind how delicate fish is. Cradle it like a child.

Fish

121

'1' H E

122

A C C I D E N T A L

The F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

l" I S H M O N G E R :

I N G R I D

B E N G I S

You hear the nome Ingrid a lot in the French

for twenty more pounds. Ingrid S?id, "You

product. There is a little community of souls

Laundry kitchen. Ingrid, the Scallop Lady. Or

wont twenty pounds, go pick them yourself."

here. I don't fox that stuH. We talk on the

Thomas will ask one of his brigade, "How are

They asked, "Can you send us lobster?"

phone. We talk about fish, we talk about what

Ingrid's lobsters?" Everyone knows Ingrid, the

Ingrid said her friends on the island were

fish is coming in. It can be a wonderful

Moine fishmonger. What they don't know,

all fishermen and many caught lobster.

however, is that she hos been a Fulbright

Balducci's said, "Good, we'll toke a hundred

scholar for the post three years, spending most

pounds." Ingrid didn't have the cosh to pay for

"community of souls" in Stonington. Once she

of each year in Russia, writing and teaching

thot kind of order, so she canvinced Balducci's

sent Thamos the halibut he'd ordered, and

English at the State University of St. Petersburg.

to wire the money the next day, and bought

also a videotape of the fish being caught,

For a brief time, in the 1 970s, she was a

the lobsters from the fishermen with it

which he played on Rakel's video screen while

famous author, having penned the controversial

Ingrid was now a purveyor.

tract on human sexuality called Combat ;n the

Ingrid explains that the waters around the

Erogenous Zone, and a few years later a novel.

exchange of information. H Ingrid involves her chefs In that

it was being served. Ingrid can step out the front door of her

archipelago in Stonington, Moine, where she

hillside home, gaze down at the three hundred

lives are absolutely clean and pocked with

boots in the harbor, and say to

nutrients, a perfect environment for fish of all

only slight exoggeration, "You're looking at

kinds. She sells only the best, and the

the American seafood industry." The village

immigrants shortly after World War II, Ingrid

fishermen she buys from know this and set

itself still seems to exist in the nineteenth

moved to Moine in the late 1 970s to write, but

aside their best for her.

century. And because of the extraordinarily

"The seafood business keeps me on this earth," she says. An intense intellectual born to Russian

she published nothing. In the mid-1 980s, dirt-

When a trendy Manhattan restaurant

visitor, with

clean, nutrient-rich waters, that fish is some of

poor, she began to forage wild mushrooms

recently asked her to fox what she hod that

the greatest in the world, and it provides a

with hopes of selling them. She sent off a load

week, she refused. ''I'm not just selling you

livellhood for writer Ingrid Bengis, who has

of chonterelles to Balducci's in Manhattan.

seafood," she explained to me. "There is a

raised fishmongering to a level opproaching art.

They called her the next day and asked

relationship happening. This isn't about

-M.R.

Fish

123

Cooki n 9 Lob5ter

If you take lobster out of its

shell before fully cooking it. you have more conlrol over its taste and te).1ure. Steep the lobster just enough so that it will pull cleanly away from the shell. leaving the interior raw, so you can treat it like raw fish.

leeks. peas and carrots. figs. foie gras. Sometimes we slow-roast the lobster. a technique that moves it into the realm of meat. so we treat it like a meat. We season it with squab spice.

At the French Laundry. we butter-poach the lobster (sec page 125).

slow-roast il. and serve it wilh foie gras.

which loads the flavor of butter into the meat and cooks it so slowly and

All our lobster dishes begin with the same initial prepar:ttion. after

gently that the flesh remains exquisitely tender-so tender some people

which the lobster may be poached in butter. roasted. or chopped for a

think it's not completely cooked. When you cook lobster violently. the

filling. It路s essential to work with the "steeped" lobsters while they are still

mea.t seizes up and becomes tough. and you can't get any flavor into it.

hot: if they cool. the fat in the meat will congeal and the meat will be

Gentle hca.ting is the key. Butter-poached lobster is extraordinarily

difficult to remove from the shell.

P R E PA R I N G

TO S T E E P T H E l O B S T E R S :

Place the lobsters in a tight- fitting heat颅

LO B S T E R

M E AT

should be altached to the pincer and the claw meat should remain intact.

proof container. Cover with cold wa.ter. Dra.in off the water. measure it.

Still holding the claw. cr:tck the top of the shell with the heel of a

112 cup of

l...-nife. about J/. inch from the joint where the knuckle was a.ttached. You

and place it in a. large pOl. Bring the water to a boil a.nd add

white distilled vinegar for every 8 quarts of water. Pour the boiling liquid

want to go through the shell but not damage the meat. Wiggle your knife

over lobsters and let them steep for 2 minutes if using Ph-pound

to loosen and crack the shell. If the shell does not pop off. it may be

lobsters. 3 minutes for 2-pound lobsters. Remove the lobsters from the

necessary to turn the claw over and repeat the procedure. Shake the claw

hot water. but do not discard the water.

to remove the meat (if it doesn't fa.1l out. cut off the very tip of the shell

One at a time. using a towel or mbber gloves to hold the hot lobster.

and blow through the hole to release the meat).

grasp its tail a.nd twist and pull to detach it. Twist and pull off thc claws

F O R T H E K N U C K L E S ; Cut off thc lopjoinl of each knuckle. theone th:tt

a.nd return them to the hot water for 5 minutes. Reserve the bodies.

was a.ttached to the lobster's body. Use scissors to cut away the shell along

F O R T H E TAl L S:

Hold each tall flat a.nd twist the tail fan to one side;

pull off a.nd disca.rd. Use your fingers to gently push the mcat through

the smooth outside edge of tbe knuckle. Use your fingers to pry open the shell and remove the meal. Add knuckle and claw meat to fail meat. Pull back and discard the top shell of each lobster.

the tail end a.nd pull the meat out through the large opening a.t the other

FOR THE BODIES :

end. Discard the shell. Lay the tail meat on its back and cut lengthwise in

including the heads nnd nntenna. and discard. Rcmove the tomalley.

h:1lf through the middle. Remove the vein running through the top of the

roe. lungs. and the sae behind the head. You can reserve the d:trk green

meat. Lay the meat on a paper towel-lined plate or pla.tter. cover with

roe for other uses. but discard the light green tomalley. fea.thery lungs.

plastic \\Tap. and refrigera.te.

and sac. You will be left with bodies and legs. Rinse them thoroughly

FOR

124

versatile. You can combine it with many different garnishes: beets and

THE

C L AW S : After 5 minutes. remove the claws from the hot

under cold water and use immcdiately. or frceze them 10 make lobster

water. Twist off each knuckle to remove it. Hold the claw in your ha.nd

stock or consomme.

and pull down to loosen the lower pincer. Push it to either side to crack

N O T E : Avoid buying frozen lobsters or bodies: you can't be assured of

it and pun it straight off. Ideally. the cartilage from inside the claw

the quality.

T h e French l a u n d r y Cookbook

B u t l el'"Pouched i\'l a i ne Lobster w i t h Leeks.

Pomlucs M n x i nl. . u n d n

Red Beet Essence

--------�o�-

POMMES

MAX I M

I large (about 1 2 ounces) Yukon Gold poloto

LOBSTERS

2 tablespoons tomato diamonds (see page 203)

Three 1 1/2- to 2·pound lobsters, "steeped"

2 teaspoons chopped chives

V2 cup Clarified Butter (recipe foUows)

and meat removed (see page 1 24);

1 tablespoon Brunaise (page 155)

Kosher salt

reserve knuckle meat for another use

V" cup plus I tablespoon Seurre Monte (page 1 35)

RED

BEET

ESSENCE

1 pound red beets, peeled, or

1 V2 cups 8eurre Monte (page 1 35) I

cup beet juice

(from 0 health food store)

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

LEEKS

1 1/2 cups thinly sliced leek rounds

3 tablespoons Beurre Montc (poge 135)

(white and pale green ports only), washed,

'/a teaspoon red wine vinegar

blanched until tender (see Big-Pat Blanching,

Few drops of lemon juice

page 58), chilled in ice water, and drained

've been servmg lobster with beets and leeks for more than a decade. and the combination has gone through many evolutions. In New York.

I served it with potatoes and a fine julienne of crispy beets. In L.A., 1 did

Reheat the pommes Maxim 10 the oven for 2 to 3 minutes. Bring the beet glaze to a snmner and whisk m the beurre monte. red wine vinegar. and lemon juice.

the Jackson Pollock thing. with splatters of reduced beet Juice and a

Place a small spoonful of the beet essence on each plate. Top with a

tower of mashed potatoes. In its current form-lobster with leeks. a thin

generous tablespoon of the leek mixture. a lobster tail. and a claw. Break

sheet ofpommes Maxim. which orib'lnatcd al �'1nxim's in Paris. and a rcd

off a piece of the pommes Maxim and place it on top of the lobster.

beet essence-l think I've found the perfect interpretation.

P I C T U R ( O ON

FOR T H E POMMES MAXIM

PA(;(

M A K E S 6 S ( R V 1 N (; S

1 30

Preheat the oven to 300QF. PecLthepotato

C L A R I F I E D

B U T T E R

and slice it mto paper-thin rounds on a mandolme. Toss the rounds with the clarified butter: they should be wen coated. Arrange them on a

1 pound unsolted butter

Silpat-lined baking sheet (see Sources. page 3 1 5). o\'erlappmg the shecs by half to form a solid sheet of potatoes. or lay them in overlappmg Circles in a large heavy ovenproof sklnet.Spnnkle lightly wuh salt. Bake the potatoes for 45 to 50 mmutes. or until they arc crisp and

Some foods-eggs. scallops. potatoes-cook particularly well tn butter. But butter contains milk solids that separate from the butterfat and burn. Removing these sohds-that

IS, clarifying the

butter-allows you to

golden brown. They may not hold together eompletcly. These call be

cook with It at higher temperatures. Clartficd butter can be refrigerated

made several hours ahead and left at room temperature.

for severill weeks or frolen almost indeftnitely as long as it's in an

FOR THE RED BEET ESSENCE

If using fresh beets. juice the beets

airtight contaIner to prevent It from absorbing freeler odors.

(you should have a generous cup). Reduce the beet juice slowly in a small snucepan to 2 to 3 tablespoons of glaze. TO C O M P L E T E

Preheat the oven to 300QF.

Place the butter in a I -quart saucepan and melt it over low heat. without stirnng. Once the butter has melted. it will have separated into three

For the lobsters. bring the lobster pieces to room temperature.

layers. Skim off and discard the fO<lI11Y layer of milk solids floating on

one layer in a large saucepan and add the bcurre monte.

top. The clear yenow butter beneath it is the clarified butter. Carefully

Place them

They should be almost covered. Place the pan over low heat and slowly

pour it off mto a container. leaving the mil}...)' liquid behind Keep

poach the lobster In the butter for 5 to 6 minutes. just to heat through.

covered and refrigerated. or frozen.

Me:lnw}ule, ror the leeks. warm the leek rounds in a saucepan. Add the tomato diamonds. chIves, brunDlse. and beurre monte. Season With salt and white pepper to taste and keep warm.

P I C T U R E D ON P A C l

1 29

MAKES .'OUT

1 '12 C u p s

· P E A S

A N D

C A R R O T S ·

rvl n i n e Lobster Pancake s w i t h Pen Shoot Salnd a n d G i n ger-Carrot E n1. u l s i o n

--------�O�-PEA SHOOT SALAD

LOBSTER GLACE

I toblespoon finely mInced shallots

2 tablespoons conolo oil

l/2 cup moscorpone

Ih cup pea shoot leaves, in ice water

3 lobster bodies (reserved from lobsters),

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

Few drops of lemon oil Pinch of minced shallots

cut into 2-inch pieces 1 tomato, quartered

3 to 4 tablespoons (2 ounces)

I small carrot, cut into I .inch pieces 2 sprigs thyme

8 crepes (page 1 27)

3 to 4 cups water

G I N G E R. C A R R O T

LOBSTER

FILLING

Carrot Powder (poge 232) EMULSION

3 pounds corrals, trimmed

Three l 1f�·pound lobsters, "steeped"

One I -Inch ( 1 -ounce) slice ginger

and meat removed (obout 2 cups

2 toblC'Spoons heavy creom

(¥4 pound) meat) (see poge 124)

1 2 tablespoons (6 ounces) cold unsolted butter;

If.. cup chopped ,hives

Kosher solt and freshly ground block pepper

unsalted butter, melted

cut into pieces

hen I hear "peas and carrots." my mind goes directly to the

Discard the bodies and strain the liquid through a chinois (sec page 73).

frozen food section of the grocery store. v{ith its boxes of Jolly

There will be l 'h to 2 cups of stock. Place the stock in a saucepan and

Green Giant peas and carrots. I'm not sure why anyone put the two

reduce over medium heat until it has thickened to a glaze (l to 2

vegetables together. but J think in most Americans' minds. it's a

tablespoons). The glaze can be refrigerated in a covered containcr for

common pairing. So when J .B., one of my early poissonniers, and I were

several days or frozen. Bring to room temperature before using for the

thinking of things to do with lobster. which we were serving with a

filling. Cutthe lobster meat intosmalldice (do

carrot-emulsion sauce. we thought '''Why not serve it with peas?" I use

FOR THE LOBSTER FILLING :

pea shoots to make the peas-and-carrots connection, dressed lightly

not use the claw tips. as they will detract from the texture of the filling).

with a little lemon-infused oil

Mix the lobster meat with the chives. shallots. I tablespoon of the lobster glace. and the masc3rpone. Season to tastc with S3lt and pepper.

FOR THE

LOBSTER GLACE :

Heat the canol a oil over medium-high

heat in a saute pan that will hold the shells in one layer. Add the lobster

126

TIle filling can be covered and refrigerated untHyou are ready to fill the crepes. Brush a baking sheet with some of the melted

bodies and saute for about 4 minutes, turning the shells occasionally.

TO F I L L T H E C R E P E S ;

until the shells have turned red (be careful not to hurn them). Add the

butter. Place the crepes (nicest side down) on a work surface. Scoop

tomato. carrot. thyme. and waterjust to cover. Simmer gently for I ll. hours.

about 1/4. cup of the filling into the center of each crc!pc. (A 2-ounce icc

Strain the stock through a large strainer or China cap (see page 73).

cream scoop works well for this. but be careful not to rip the pancakes

pressing firmly on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible.

with the scoop,) One by one. fold one edge of each crepe over the filling

The F r e n c h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

and then. working clocl.."wise. continue folding the crepe over the filling. pleating it as you go to form :t round packet. Place the packets seam side down on the buttered pan. Lightly brush the tops with more butter. The filled crepcs can be refrigcrated for scver.11 hours. F O R T H E G I N G E R路 C A R R OT E M U L S I O N ;

1 V4 cups milk

Scont 1 cup ( 4 ounces)

4 tablespoons (2 ounces)

all-purpose flour

Run the carrots and ginger

unsolted buner, melted

Pinch of kosher salt

through a juicer (you can save the carrot pulp to make carrot powder). You should have 2 to 21/. cups of jUice. Place the juicc in a saucepan.

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

bring to a simmer. and remove the first layer of foam that rises to the

You can make crepes savory or sweet. depending on the dish you're

top. Simmer for 1 2 to 15 minutes. or until the juicc is reduced to 1/2 to 3/"

serving.

1 tablespoon minced chives

cup and is the consistency of baby food. Do not skim again; the body is needed to yield a puree rather than a sauce. Remove from the heat and

Place the nour and salt in a bowl and create a well in the center of the

set aside. The puree can be made up to a day ahead and stored in the

nour. Whisk the eggs and milk together and pour into the well. Whisk

rcfrigerator.

the nour and egg mixture together. then whisk in the butter. Strain the Preheat the ovcn to 350掳F.

TO C O M P l E T E

batter through a fine-mesh strainer and stir in the chives.

Heat the carrot puree in a saucepan. Whisk in the cream and reduce

Heat an 8th-inch nonstick crepe pan over mcdium heat until hot.

slightly. to regain the consistency it had before the cream was added.

Spray with a non-stick spray. then usc a I -ounce ladle to pour the batter

With the puree at a gentle simmer. whisk in the butter a piece at a time.

into the center of the skillet (or add 2 tablespoons of batter to the

adding a new piece only when the last piece is almost incorporated.

skillet). Rotate the skillet in a circular motion to cover the bottom of the

Remove the sauce to a blender and blend until it is emulsified. Keep the

pan evenly with the batter Of you hear it sizzle in the pan. your heat is too

sauce in a warm spot. but do not place It over direct heat. or it will break.

high). Cook for 30 to 45 seconds to set the batter. Then usc a small

Heat the lobster pancakes In the oven for 8 to 1 0 minutes. or until

narrow spatula to gently flip the crepe. Cook for only 1 0 to 15 seconds more. to set the second side.

hot throughout. M E A N W H I L E,

Drain the pea shoot

Remove the crepe and place it with the nicer side down on a paper

a salad spinner. Toss the leavcs In a bowl with the

towel. Repeat for the remaining crepes. spraying the pan as needed. and

FOR THE

leaves. then dr)'

PEA S H O O T SALAD .

layering the paper towcls and crepes.

lemon oil. shallots. and salt and pepper to taste. Place a spoonful of carrot emulsion on each sel>'lng plate. Usc the back of a spoon to sprcad the sauce into a circle that will extend slightly

When you arc ready to fill the crepes. just lift up the towels and fill the crepes-the best side of the crepes \\;11 be on the outside.

beyond the edges of the pancakc. Center the pancakes on the sauce and

M A I(. ( S

1 4 TO

1 8 CR(P(S

garnish the tops with the pea shoot salad. Dust each plate with a httle DESSERT CR tPES '

carrot powder. P I C T U II ( O ON

PAGE

1 29

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

Omit the chives. Add 1 tablespoon o f sugar to the

dry ingredients. Add 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract with the eggs.

fisk

127

Fish

1 29

" M A C A R O N I

A N D

C H E E S E "

B u t ter-Ponched 1\1ninc Lobstel' w i t h Cl'cn rny Lobster Broth nnd M n s c o l'ponc-Enl'ichcd Ol'ZO

2 cups Creomy Lobster Broth (poge 35)

1 'h cups Beurre Monte (page

'12 cup arlO (rice-shaped posta)

1 tablespoon minced chives

2 tablespoons mascarpone

Coral Oil (page 167), in 0 squeeze bottle

Kosher salt

6 Parmesan Crisps (page 37)

Three

l 'k- to 2-pound lobsters, "steeped"

and meot removed (see page 1 24; reserve knuckle meot for another use)

e serve so much lobster at the restaurant that creating new lobster dishes is always an exciting challenge. I used to do an

actual gratin with lobster and macaroni. but now I use ana with mascarpone. the lobster on top. and Parmesan crisps-an echo of the crisp texture of a traditional gratin dish. The coral oil rings the arlO for bright color. and I finish the plate with chopped coral. TIlis is an enormously satisfying dish to cat. Place the lobster broth in a saucepan and bring it to a simmer. Rcduce the broth to a sauce consistency: you should ha\'c 1 to 1 1/4 cups. Sct aside in the pan. Cook the ono in boiling lightly saltcd water until just tender. Drain the cooked pasta in a strainer and rinse under cold water. Shake the strainer to remove exccss water and add the ono to the lobster broth. TO

COMPLETE

If the lobster pieces have been refrigerated. bring

them to room temper::tture. Heat the ono and lobster broth to a simmer. Add the mascarponc and season with salt to taste. Let simmer for a minute. then remove the pan from the heat and keep warm. Meanwhile. place the lobster pieces in one layer in a large saucepan. Pour in the bcurre montc: the lobster should almost be covcred. Hcat gently to warm thc lobster. Stir the chives into the ana. Pipe a 2 - ineh circle of coral oil in thc center of each serving dish. Place ahout 1/3 cup of ono in the center of the oil. allowing it to spread the oil out into a larger circle. Arrange a piece of lobster tail and a claw in the center of the

ana and top each serving

",;lh a Parmesan crisp. M A IC B 6 S E R V I N G S

132

The F r e n c h l o u n d r y C o o k b o o k

135)

Five-Spiced Roasted M a i n e Lobster w i t h Port-Ponched F i g s n n d S o u tced M o u lnrd Duck F o i e G r a s ----------------

� � O

POAC H E D

FIGS AND SAUCE

9 Block Mission figs 1 cup port wine

-----------------

2 tablespoons chopped chives

2 tablespoons Squab Spice ( page 233)

1 tablespoon Chicken Siock (page 226)

Kosher salt

or woler (oplionol)

3/-4 teaspoon ground coffee beans 1 tablespoon plus I teaspoon finely chopped bittersweet chocolate

1 cup Beurre Monte (page 135) Six 3/-4-inch-thlck slices foie gros

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

(about 112 ounce each)

LOB STE RS

Three

l V:z- 10 2-paund lobsters, "steepedH

Freshly ground block pepper

1 to 2 tablespoons Beurre Manle (page 135)

and meat removed (see page 1 24;

1 tablespoon chopped chives

2 tablespoons chopped shallots

reserve knuckle meat for anolher use)

Gray salt

uring the summer. figs are in abundance. so we created a lobster

is smooth and thcn strain it through a chinois (see page 73) into a small

dish to show them orr. treating the shellfish like a meat: seasoning

saucepan.

it with squab spice. oven-roasting it with beurre monte. and serving it

TO C O M P L E T E ,

Preheat the oven to 300°F.

w1th foie gras. The most beguiling clement of this dish is the sauce. I knew I wanted it to be a puree of figs that had been poached in port.

Sprinkle the tatls and claws with the squab spice and salt. Place thc

rather than a butter sauce: the figs and port would go well with the foie

lobster pieces in one layer 10 a largc ovenproof skillet. Coat them with 112

gras. But I also wanted some other clements that would gwe the dish

cup of the bcurre mont(!. place ovcr mcdium heat. and hcat gently for

some complexity and depth. so I threw in some biller chocolate and

about 2 minutes. Whcn the bcurre montc bebrins to simmer. place the

some ground coffee beans. You don't really taste the chocolate and

pan in the oven for 5 minutes to finish cooking.

coffee so much as feel their bitter undertone. They counteract the sweetness of the figs. while the fruit gives the sauce Its body. F O R T H E POAC H E D F I G S A N a SAUCE

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Remove the stems from the figs and cut a slit 10 the top of each fruit.

For the lobsters. bring the lobster pieces to room temperature.

Meanwhile. score one side of the slices of foic gras in a crosshatch pattcrn about 111 6 inch dcep Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat a. skillet over high heat and saute the foie gras. scored side down. for about 15 seconds. Turn thc pieces over and continue to cook for an additional 1 5 seconds. Remove from the heat.

Stand the figs Side by side in a small ovenproof saucepan where they fit

Rewarm the fig sauce and add the 1 to 2 tablespoons bcurre mon1<:.

snugly. POllrln the port; it should cover the bottom two thirds of the figs.

shallots. and chives. If the sauce is too thick. It can be thinncd with a

Place the pan o\'er medium hcat and bring to a bOIl. Covcr with a parchment lid (see page 190) and place 10 the oven for about I II: hours.

tablcspoon of chicken stock or water. Scason to taste with salt and peppcr.

or unlll the figs arc soft and the port is slightly reduced.

remal1\ing figs and center one in each pool of sauce. Top cach fig \\;th a

Rcmove thc figs from thc liquid. Thcre will be '1b. to 31. cup port. Place 3 of the figs

a blender with the ground correc and chocolate.

With the motor nmnmg. pour in the warm port. Blend until the mixture

Spoon the fig sauce into the center of the plates. Flatten the lobster tail. then 3 claw. 3 spoonful of beurre monte. and. finally. a slice of sautecd foie gras. Sprinkle the foie gras with thc chivcs and gray salt. P I C T U H D ON

PAG[ \ 3 1

"' A " ( S 6 S E R V I N G S

134

T h e F r e n c h l a u n d r y Cookbook

B e u r r e

0 n

te :

t h e Wo r k h o r s e S a u c e

We also use beurre monte to baste meats, and this has several

At the French Laundry. we use an awful lot of butter without actually

purposes. When we saute beef or venison or a saddle of lamb. we

serving a lot of butter. because of OUf reliance on the substance called

typically finish cooking it in the oven. But before we do. we drain the fat

beurre monte. We cook in it. rest meats in it. make sauces with it. It's

out of the pan and ladle a little beurre monte over the meat. This belps

an extraordinary vehicle for both heat and flavor. Butter in its solid

to keep the meal moist. enhances the flavor. and also improves the

state is an emulsification of butter fat. milk solids. and water. If you

cooking. because the even layer of fat-the beurre monte-is a heat

melt butter. these three components separate. but heurre monte-a few

conductor. (We always let the pan cool down a little. though: if the pan's

drops of water and chunks of butter whisked over moderate heat-is a

too hot. the beurre monte will separate and the solids will bum.)

method of mcLting butter while maintaining the emulsification.

When the meats are done. they come out of the oven and are

We usc bcurrc monte in many different ways and for different

submerged in beurre monte-it's the perfect restingmedium. lt act'ually

reasons. Poaching lobster in it is one of its primary uses. Its flesh

lowers the temperature of the meat. reducing what is called carryover

imprcgn3tcd with the flavor of butter. this lobster reminds me of Maine

cooking. then maintains it at a great serving temperature. But most

lobster that you eat with drav,rn butter. and for me that's what lobster is

important. the weight of the fat surrounding the meat keeps the meat

all about.

juices from leaking out-they stay in the meat. So here. we use beurre

Poaching lobster in beurre monte is also an easy way to cook it.

montc as environmental control, and it enhances the flavor.

Beurre monte stays between 1 80° and 190°F. in our kitchen (it will break.

Almost all our canape sauces arc made a la. minute with beurre

or separate. if you boil it) and therefore it's always at a perfect poaching

monte. The sauce for the blini. for "Oysters and Pearls." for "Bacon and

temperature. Butter-poached lobster is meltingly tender. moist. and

Eggs"-all arc simply a spoonful ofbeurre monte y,;th different flavoring

flavorful. And because of the gentle temperature. it's harder to overcook

ingredients.

it; once the lobster hits the right point of donencss. it stays therc for a

And finally. what we don't use. we simply clarify the next day and thcn

while. Buttcr-poached lobster is easy to do at home: Make your bcurre

use this clear butter for hollandaise or for sauteing scallops. for cooking

monte. bring it to 1 60° to 1 90°F.. pop your cleaned room-temperature

soft-shelled crabs. crepes. potato chips. You can do that too. or simply

tails and claws into it. and let them poach for 5 to 6 minutes.

refrigerate it and use it the same way you'd use whole butter for cooking.

P R EPAR I N G

B E U R R E

MONTE

A little bit of water helps the emulsion

saucepan. Reduce the heat to low and begin

beurre monte close to the time it will be used and

process: \Vllether you emulsify 4 tablespoons

whisking the ehunks of butter into the water. bit by

keep 1t in a warm place. If you have extra beurre

(2 ounces) or I pound of butter. just a tablespoon

bit, to emuJsify. Once you have established the

monte. it can be rcfrigc�ted and then reheated to

of water will do. Any amount ofbeurre monte can

emulsion. you can continue to add pieces of butter

use as melted butter or clarified.

be made using the following method. Read the

untilyou havethe quantityofbeurre montcthatyou

Though we arc enamored of beurre monte

particular recipe through to determine the total

need (we make 20 pounds at a tirne). It is important

and use it all day in our kitchens. when a recipe

to keep the level of heat gentle and consistent in

calls for only a tablespoon or two. you can

order to maintain the emuJsification. Make the

substitute whole butter.

amont of beurre monte you will need. Bring the water to a bOll in an appropriate-size

F i s h 135

Pall·Roasted �1al11e JlllUbo Scnllops with Morel M u s h l'o0111S l\l1d Asparagus Puree

--------�o�-30 medium stalks asparagus

I tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons Brunoise (page 1 55)

1 to 2 cups Vegetable Stock (page 227),

3 small sprigs thyme

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

2 cloves garlic, smashed

I to 2 tablespoons tomoto diamonds

Chicken Stock (page 226), or water

24 medium morels (about 8 ounces),

(see page 203)

I tablespoon chopped shallot

soaked in several changes of worm water

7 to 8 tablespoons Beurre Monte (page 135)

Conola oil

until cleon and then rinsed

2 teaspoons minced chives

6 jumbo scallops, tough ligaments removed (about 21/2 ounces each)

his dish uses the classic combination of morels and asparagus. The

liquid to drain. Discard the liquid and scrape the puree through the

sauce is simply

tamis. You should have about % cup of puree.

puree of asparagus finished with a little beurre

monte. Our scallops arc briny. which I think is fundamental in a good

Trim the stems from the morels. Place them in a saucepan. add

scallop. Be careful not to overcook them: too much heat will destroy that

enough stock or water to cover. and simmer until tender. Drain the

briny quality and make them stringy. I cherish our scallop dishes. not only because of the scallops

mushrooms and cut them into small dice. TO C O M P L E T E :

Heat the butter in a medium saute pan. When it is hot.

themselves but also because of my relationship with Ingrid Bengis. Her

add the morels. thyme sprigs. and garlic. Cook over medium heat for

scallops are harvested from November through May off Stonington.

about 2 minutes. Add the shallot to the pan and cook for I more minute.

Maine. and Ingrid knows whieh fishermen shuck scallops into saltwater

Remove the pan from the heat and discard the thyme and garlic. Add 3

(as opposed to shucking them dry or into fresh water). which keeps their

to 4 tablespoons beurre monte. the chives. and brunoise. Season with

briny quality. and she sends them to us dry-packed (many scallops arc

salt and white pepper; keep warm.

packed in a chemical brine that plumps them and makcs them too watery).

Warm the asparagus tips with the tomato diamonds and 2 1ablespoons beurre monte in a small pan over low heat. In a separate pan. wanll the

Trim away the boltom third of each asparagus spear and discard. Cut

asparagus puree and whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons beurre monte.

1 liz-inch-long tips from the asparagus spears: reserve the stalks. Blanch

Season both mixtures with salt and white pepper to taste: keep warm.

the asparagus tips in boiling water (see Big-Pot Blanching. page 58)

Heat I/S inch of eanola oil in a medium skillet over medium-high

until just tender and remove to an ice water bath. Blanch the stalks until

heat. Pat the scallops dry on paper towels. season with salt. and place

they arc fully cooked and place in a second ice water bath. When the tips

them in the pan. Cook the scallops for I to 2 minutes one each side. or

and spears are cold. transfer to paper towels to drain.

until well browned.

Puree the stalks in a blender with just enough stock or water (2 to 4

Place a spoonful of the asparagus puree on each plate. Center a

tablespoons) to allow them to turn. Pour the purt'!e onto a tamis (sec

spoonful of the mushroom mixture over the puree and top with a scallop.

page 73) set over a bowl and let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes to allow excess

Stack the asparagus tips and tomatoes over the scallops. MAKts 6 SlRVINGS

136

The French L a u n d ry C o o k b o o k

Salmon "Chops" w i t h Celery and Bl nel(. Truffles

--------�o�-

3 medium stolks celery

Freshly ground white pepper

Kosher solt

2 teaspoons water

Conolo oil

3 tablespoons (1 V2 ounces) unsalted butter

Six l 1h-inch round brioche Croutons (page 238)

1 V2 teaspoons white truffle oil

6 sprigs chervil

Six l in. by 2- by l -inch·thick pieces solman fillet, skin on (see On Crisping Slotin, page 147)

1 8 thin slices block truffle, plus 2 tablespoons finely julienned (slivered) block truffle

3 tablespoons lightly whipped cream

he idea of doing a fish chop was inspired by David Burke. the

skin side down and cook for about I minute. then turn over and cook for

relentlessly creative chef of New York City's Park Avenue Cafe. He

another minute. "Kiss." or briefly cook. the sides of the pieces. Remove

uses swordfish. which is too big for the French Laundry. but there's a

the cooked salmon and keep warm.

section of the salmon fillet near the head that can be cut into two chops.

F O R THE SAUCE;

It's anything but practical. since you only get two from each whole

the heat to low and whisk in the butter to emulsify (see Beurre Monte.

salmon. Here. to replace the chop cut. use salmon fillet.

page 135). Nter adding the last of the butter. whisk in the white truffle

Peel the celery stalks. squaring off the rounded side of the stalks as you

cream to create a slight froth. Scason with salt.

Bringthewatert o a boil i n a small saucepan. Reduce

oil. Remove the butter from the heat and vigorously whisk in the beavy peel. Slice the celery length\,;se on a mandoline and cut the slices mto fine julienne about 1 inch long.

Spoon about I tablespoon of the sauce into the center of each of six howls. Arrange three small nests of celery. equally spaced. around each

Blanch the celery in boiling salted water until tender (see Big-Pot

pool of the sauce. Top each nest with a slice of truffle. Place a crouton in

Blanching. page 58). drain it in a strainer. and place thc strainer in an

the center of the sauce and top with a piece of salmon. skin side up.

ice-water bath. When the celery is cold. drain. dry on paper towels. and

Garnish each fillet with julienned truffle and a sprig of chervil. Sprinkle

sprinkle with salt to taste. You should have about '/" cup of celery.

the dish lightly \\;th salt.

Heat about l/a inch of canola oil in a large skillet. Season the salmon

P I C T U R E D ON P A G E

1 38

MAKES 6 HRVINGS

with salt and white pepper. When the oil is hot. add the salmon fillets

Fish

137

Aboďż˝Ct: Sollctlng a Solman 'Chop,' page 1 37. OppolllCt: (lulIl-Morfnoted Solman, pogl'

138

The French Loundry Cookbook

140.

C i t rus-l\1 n r i n n t e d Saltnon \\' i t h a Co ntit ot Novel Oranges. Beluga Cavlnl'. a n d Pea S h o o t C o u U s

-----------------------� O r---------------------t side solmon (0 whole fillet, about 4 pounds), skin and pin bones removed CITRUS MARINADE

IfJ cup finely minced chives

ORANGE CONFIT

4 novel oranges

I to 2 ounces belugo caviar

III cup Simple Syrup (page 271)

Citrus Powder (poge 232)

Finely grated zest of t orange (about 2 teaspoons)

III teaspoon white wine vinegar

Finely grated zest of III lemon (about

PEA SH OOT C O U L I S

I teaspoon)

Finely grated zest of 1/2 lime (about 'h: teaspoon)

3 quarts (6 ounces) pea shoots

Finely grated zest of V.. grapefruit (about 2

2 to 3 tablespoons Chicken Stock (page 226)

teaspoons) IfJ cup kosher solt

(optional)

1 'h tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons sugar

Kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground white pepper

Olive oil for poaching

As with the \Varm Fruitwood-Smoked Salmon with Potato Gnocchi I-\. and Balsamic Glaze (page 91). 1 work a similar twist on the citrus

Place the salmon fillet rounded side up on a cutting board. Trim the salmon of its thin fatty belly flap and any other fat. and cut off the last 2

marinated salmon. which is cured and flavored with ground citrus zest.

to 3 inches of the tail end (reserve it for another use). Flip the fillet over

We poach the salmon in olive oil very. very gently. at about 1 1 0 degrees.

and trim away and discard any dark flesh. Youwill see a line running the

Again. what is normally served cold. as gravlax. is served hot and yet it

length of the fish: cut the salmon fillet lengthwise in half down this line.

has even more of the qualities you look for in the cold preparation. that

For this reCipe. you will use the wider section of the fillet. Trim it into an

melting richness of cold cured salmon. I use navel oranges because they

even rectangular piece approximately 13 inches long and 3 inches wide

have no seeds. give the highest yield. and have the best shape. If pea

and weighing about 1 1/.. pounds. (Use the extra salmon for tartare or

shoots are unavailable. you could substitute pea tendrils or watercress.

another dish.)

preparing them the same way. Both of these salmon preparations are unique and embody some of the most exciting elements of cooking for me.

F O R THE CITRUS MARINADE:

Comhinc the marinade ingredients in

a bowl. stirring with a fork to break up any clumps. Cut a piece of aluminum foil slightly longer than the fillet. Sprinkle half of the marinade down the center of the foil and spread it into the

In order to get the proper thickness needed for this dish. start

shape of the fillet. Place the fillet on it and sprinkle the remaining

with a whole fillet. or side of salmon. Aftertrimming. you will have about

marinade over the fish. Bring the sides of the foil together over the top

two pounds of salmon left. which can be used for another dish.

of the fish and roll the foil down to form a packet. Turn the ends of the

NOT£:

140

The F r e n c h L o u n d ry C o o k b o o k

foil under the fish and place the packet on a baking sheet. Place a second

To determine how much oil is needed to cook the fish. stand the

baking sheet on the fish and welght it lightly. Marinate the salmon in the

pieccs of fish. on one of their cut sides. in a pan that ,vi11 bold them in

rcfrigerator for 3 hours (or about 1 hour for every 1/. inch of the fish

one layer and cover them with olive oil. Remove the pieces of fish and

fillet's thickness). Don't forget your fish: if it marinates for too long. it

heat the oil to 1 1 0°F. Return the salmon pieces to the oil. on their sides.

will be oversalted.

and heat them for about 10 minutes (it will take closer to 13 minutes if Usmga sharp knife, slice

the fillets were cold). To test the cooked salmon. remove a piece and

off the peel, including aU the white pith from the oranges. \Vorking over

bend it slightly. It should begin to fl.ke. but the color should still be

M E A N W H I L E . F O R T H E O R A N G E C O N F I T:

a bowl, slice between the membranes to remove all the orange segments:

almost the color of raw salmon. The fish can remain in the oil slightly

discard the membranes.

longer without overcooking. providing the tcmperature does not exceed

Bring the simple syrup and white wine vinegar to a boil. Pour over

1 10°F.: maintain the temperature by placing the pan on a heat diffuser

the orange segments and let cool to room temperature (this is called a

or by moving the pan on and orf the heat as necessary. lrthe temperature

contit because the syrup stabilizes the oranges). This can be rdngerated

of the oil starts to rise. adding 3 little more oil to the pan will help to

for 1 to 2 days. You will need 32 orange sections for this: reserve any

lower the heat quickly. When the salmon is cooked. remove the fillets

extras for another use.

from the pan and drain briefly on paper towels.

FOR

THE

PEA

SHOOT

COULlS:

Blanch the pea shoots in 2 to 3

batches (see Big-Pot Blanching. page 58) until the stems are completely

TO C O M P L ET E :

Warm the orange sections in the syrup. Bring the pea

shoot coulis to a simmer. adding a little chicken stock or water if the

tender. 6 to 8 minutes. As each batch becomes tender. lift the shoots to

sauce is too thick. Once it's at a simmer. whisk in the butter and salt to

a chinois (see page 73) and submerge the chino is in icc water to chill the

taste. Pour the coulis into a sauceboat.

pca shoots. then drain them.

Place 4 warm orange sections side by side to form a rectangle in the

Place the shoots in a blender with just enough water to allow the

center of each serving plate. Spread the chives on a dish and press the

blade to turn and blend the mi.'(ture. If you need more water. add it by

tops (cut sidc) of the salmon pieces in the chives to coat them. Set the

the tablespoon. Scrape the puree through a tOlmis (see page 73): you

fish chive side up over the oranges and garnish the top of each fillet with

should have '12 to 3/, cup. Place the puree in a small saucepan.

a small quenelle (see page 274). or oval scoop. of caviar. Dust each plate

Remove the marinated £ish from the foil. rinse off the marinade,

with a pinch of citrus powder. At the table. pour about I tablespoon of

and dry the fillet thoroughly. Cut the fillet crosswise mto 8 pieces

the coulis around each fillet.

approximately 3 inches by J lh inches wide. I£ time allows. let the fish

P I C T U R £ O ON P A G £

1 39

M A K E S 8 5 t A: V L N C S

stand at room temperature for about 30 minutes to an hour.

F i s t-.

141

"CLAM Sauteed

Cod

with

CHOWDER"

Cod Cul<es nnd Parsley O i l

------ Or----

side cod

(0 whole fillet, about 2'12 pounds),

2 tablespoons

6 littleneck clams, soaked

potatoes, peeled

cup crisp, dry white wine, such as Souvignon Blanc

medium shollots, sliced

until tender (see Big路Pat Blanching,

small boy leaf

2 to 3

unsolted buner

teaspoon very finely minced garlic

tablespoons 8curre Monte (pogc

V2 teaspoon finely minced

Sauvlgnon Blanc

tablespoons olive oil

peeled Yukon Gold potato

drained

1/4 cup crisp, dry white wine, such as

blanched

(lI".;nch dice), boiled untill lender and

1 2 block peppercorns

cup heavy creom

135)

Itolion parsley

tablespoon Brunoise (poge 1 55)

Parsley Oil (page

Conola all

1 66), in a

squeeze bottle

Trimany darkened areas fromthe fillet. Cut 6 porlions

love cod. because you can do so much with it. I wanted a garnish for a

FOR T H E COO ;

cod fillet that was indigenous to where that cod was from. Thus the

about 2 inches by 3 inches by I inch thick (21h to 3 ounces each) from

New England chowder. and also the cod cakes. which arc wonderful all

the fillet. Cut the trimmings into chunks (about 14 ounces total).

by themselves-I used to serve them as

FOR THE COD CAKES:

canape. They're based on

Place the potatoes in a saucepan with water to

brandade. which is a traditional French dish of pureed salt cod and

cover by at least 2 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat. reduce the heat.

potatoes. These cakes arc sauteed to develop a perfect crust on the

and simmer until lender; drain.

outside and creaminess on the inside. I use them as the pedestal for the

Meanwhile. bring the wine. shallots. garlic. thyme. and peppercorns

fillet. which is sauced with a very elegant "chowder" of celery. potatoes.

to a boil in a large saucepan. Add the cod trimmings. cover. and steam the

and clams. and finish the dish with vivid parsley oil.

fish for 5 minutes. or until thoroughly cooked. Remove the pieces of fish

This recipe will make more cod cakes than you need. but you can

142

lfJ cup diced

small shallot, peeled

1 4 ounces

S tablespoons (2'12 ounces)

V16路inch slices),

page 58), chilled in ice watcr; and drained

small clove gorlic, peeled

1 sprig thyme

kosher salt

celery (peeled and cut on a

and scrubbed with 0 brush

6 sprigs thyme reserved cod trimmings (from above)

V. cup sliced

in a few changes

diagonal into

112

tablespoon

Kosher solt and freshly ground white pepper

"CHOW D E R"

of cold water for severol hours, drained,

5 cloves gorlic, crushed

Flour for dusting

I SS)

Italian parsley

CLAMS

COD CAKES

1 2 ounces Yukon Gold

Brunoise (page

2 teaspoons finely chopped

skin and any bones removed

and drain them on paper towels. Discard the cooking: liquid.

store them in the freezer. ready to be used as appetii'.crs or a first course

Place the hot potatoes and bot fish in a bawl and break them up with

on their own. Ofyou do not have 14 ounces of trimmings. just reduce the

a fork until cvenly mixed. Add the remaining ingredients one at a time.

other quantities accordingly.)

mixing after each addition. Cover and refrigerate for about 1 hour.

The F r e n c h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

ROLL THE lOGS:

Put a 14-inch piece of plastic wrap on a wet

counter (this will make rolling the logs easier). place half of the cod mixture on the plastic. and (arm it into a 2-inch-widc log that is 7 to 8 inches long. Roll the log in the plastic and twist the ends. Tie one end and twist the other tightly to compress the mixture. Repeat to form the second log. Place in the freezer for at least several hours. or up to 2 weeks. FOR

THE

CLAMS:

Place the clams in a small pot with the garlic.

shallot. thyme. bay leaf. and wine. Cover and bring to a boil; remove each clam as soon as it opens. Remove the clams from the shells and reserve. Strain the cooking liquid into a small saucepan and reduce to a glaze (2 to 3 tablespoons). Add the heavy cream and reduce the sauce slowly to about 1/3 to 112 cup. TO C O M P L E T E :

Preheat the oven to 250Â°F.

Cut six 3/4-inch slices from one cod cake log remove the plastiC wTap. and thaw them for about 15 minutes. (Keep the remaining mixture fro1.en for another time.) Heat II. inch of oil in a skillet over medium heat. Dip the cod cakes in flour. pat offany excess. and saute for about 1 th minutes on each side. or until they are browned and hot throughout. Keep them warm on a baking sheet in the oven. In a large skillct. heat II. inch of oil until hot. Season the cod \\;th salt and white pepper and saute until golden brown. about 3 minutes per side. Drain briefly on paper towels. Meanwhile. for the Hchowder.ďż˝ in a saucepan. warm the celcry and potato cubes \\;th the buerre manU;. parslcy. brunoise. and reservcd clams. Rcwarm the sauce over low heat. Pipe a flng of parslcy oil 10 cach serving dish. Fill each ring With about I tablespoon of the sauce. top \\;th a cod cake. the sauteed cod. and the Hchowdcr." M "' U S 6 H R V I N G S

Sauteed A t l a n t i c H A l i b u t w i t h SUlnmel' SuccotAsh and Rue-Scented O n io n Glaze

--------�O�-

CIPOLLINI

ONIOHS AND

SAUCE

6 medium or 1 2 small cipollini onions

(obout 6 ounces total)

liz teaspoon finely minced chives

S U CCOTASH

4 ears baby corn

1 teaspoon Brunoise (page 1 55)

1 '12 teospoons sugar

2 to 3 tablespoons Beurre Monle (page 1 35)

Canola oil

I cup milk

Freshly ground block pepper to taste

About 2 '12 cups Chicken Stock (page 226)

Kosher solt

H A L I B UT

112 cup Veol Stock (page 222)

1 8 fovo beans, peeled, germ removed

Flour for dusting

5 sprigs thyme

(see page 80), blanched until tender

A 'h:-inch sprig rue

(see Big-Pot Blanching, page 58),

1 tablespoon honey

chilled in ice water, and drained

Pinch of kosher salt 1 tablespoon Beurre Monte (page 135)

(peeled ond cut into lf1 6-inch dice),

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsalted butter,

quickly blanched and drained

cut Into 6 pieces

by 31.. inches (about 3 ounces each) Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper Conolo oil

1 teaspoon diced red bell pepper

I teaspoon diced yellow belJ pepper (peeled and cut into 1/16-jnch dice),

Freshly ground block pepper

6 pieces halibut fillet, 2 inches by 2 inches

1/2 to 3/" cup Beurre Monte (page 1 35) 6 chive tips (obout

I inch long)

6 smoll sprigs chervil

quickly blanched and drained

ne of the reasons I find fish exciting to coak is that it carries

character to the sauce.) Once the root ends arc brown. transfer the

garnishes so well. Halibut is a great example. I often serve it with

onions to a fine strainer to drain any excess oil.

four different preparations of onions. sometimes even with a dusting of

Return the onions. and any brown bits in the strainer. to the pan

onion powder. I use Atlantic halibut because it has a higher fat content

and add 2 cups of the chicken stock. the veal stock. thyme. rue. honey.

and a moister flesh than the Pacific. Here the garnish is succotash with

and salt. Bring the liquid to it simmer. Cover with a parchment lid (see

an unusual glaze that originated with my faVOrIte way to cook onions.

page 190) and braise in the oven for 45 minutes. or until the onions arc

braising them with the herb rue. Rue IS a beautiful gray-green plant that

meltingly tender. They should still hold their shape. but there should be

isn't used often in the kitchen. but it gives a flavor to onions that's

no resistance when tested with a paring knife.

unique-kind of floral with a nutty undenone. Nothing can substitute

When the onions are tender. remove them from the pan. Peel away

for its flavor. but in its absence you could use thyme. rosemary. or basil.

the skin and any tough outer layers and place the onions in a container. Strain the braising liquid through a fine strainer into a small saucepan.

FOR THE CIPOLLINI O N I O N S :

Preheat the oven to 325°F.

Trim the root ends of the onions. leaving the skin on and enough root intact to hold them together. Coat the bottom of a pan wide enough 10 hold the onions in onc layer with

144

IIlIi ineh of canola oil. Heat the oil

Reduce the liquid slowly for about 15 minutes. untii aboul 6 tablespoons of glaze remain. The liquid should be dark and thick. but if it is too sticky (like syrup or honey). add chicken stock. a tablespoon at a time. to thin it out. Set the sauce aside in the pan. Place the baby corn in a small

over medium-high heat and when it is hot. add the onions root side

M E A N W H I L E , F O R T H E S U C C O TA S H :

down. Se'lr the onions on the root cnd only until they are a dark golden

saucepan with the sugar. milk. and a pinch of salt. Bringto a simmer and

brown. 3 to 4 minutes. (This initial scaring will add flavor depth and

poach the corn for 10 to 12 minutes. until tender. There should be very

The French Loundry Cookbook

little resistance when the corn is tested with a paring knife. but it must be able to hold its shape without falling apart when cut. Rinse the corn and cut each cob into rondelles. thin rounds of about Ih6lnch. Combine the baby corn with the fava beans. red and yellow peppers. chives. and brunoise in a sJucepďż˝m. Add the beurre montc Jnd about

1 teaspoon water to moisten the vegetables and set Jside. TO

C O M P L E T E : For the halibut. piJce some nour in a dish. Season

both sides of the halibut with salt and pepper and lightly coat the skin side with flour. patting off any excess. Heat 1fa inch of canola oil in a large skillet; the pan should be big enough to hold all si.x picces of fish comfortably without overcrowding them. If the fillets touch each other. they will steam rather than sautc. so if your pan is not big enough. use two pans. Place the fish skin side down in the hot oil and cook for 2 minutes. or until a crisp golden-brown cnlst forms. Turn the fish and cook for another minute. Halibut should be cooked only to medium. as it has a tendency to dry out. When the fish is donc. turn off the heat and coat the pieces on both sldes with the bcurrc manu!. Let the fish rest for a couple of minutcs. then drain the fillcts on it paper towel to absorb exccss butter. Meanwhilc. place the onions in a saucepan with thc beurrc monte and JUSt enough chicken stock to come

1 tablespoon

1ft.

inch up the

sides of the pan. Heat gently to warm. Reheat the succotash o\'er low heat and season wHh salt and pepper. Set the sauce ovcr medium hcat. Whisking continuously. add the butter. a tablcspoon at a time. Do not let the sauce comc to a boil. or the butter will separate and become oily. The sauce is ready when it coats the back of a spoon. Adjust the seasoningwilh S.1lt and pcpper to taste. Place a spoonful of sauce on each pl3te. Place

1 medium cipollim

onion or 2 small ones on each pool of sauce and place a piece of halibut on top. Spoon the succotash over the fish. Garnish the top of e3cb serving with a chive tip and a sprig of chervil. M A ll O 6 S [ R V I N G ďż˝

F h h 145

Bb\el" Sen B a s s w i t h Sweet Pars n i p s . Arrowlenr S p i nach . a n d S a rrron-Va n i l i a Sauce

----- 'oďż˝---MUSSEL STOCK

1 8 mussels, scrubbed and debeorded

6 ounces spinach, washed and tough

1/.. teaspoon saffron threads

l lh. teaspoons heavy cream

2 large cloves garlic, peeled

Kosher salt

1 large shallot, peeled

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

4 sprigs thyme

PA R S N I P

2 boy leaves

2 parsnips (about 5 ounces), peeled

1 cup crisp, dry white wine, preferably Souvignon Blanc

1 cup plus I tablespoon heavy cream

Conolo oil Six 2- by 3-inch pieces block sea boss fillet (about

Pinch of kosher soh

1 teaspoon unsalted buHer

cut into 8 pieces BASS

112 cup water

SPINACH

JIA teaspoon olive oil

1 0 tablespaons (5 ounces) unsolted buHer,

PUREE

Three 2-inch strips orange zest (removed with a vegetable peeler)

Reserved 1 cup mussel stock (from above)

stems removed

6 ounces each), skin on (see On Crisping Skin, page 147)

S A F F R O N -VA N I L L A S A U C E

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

112 vanilla bean, split

lack sea bass is an extremely versatile fish because of its neutral

FOR T H E S P I N A C H :

flavor and sturdy texture; it allows you to use your imagination i n

with the olive oil. Heat the oil until it is hot and the zest begins to ripple

Place the strips o f orange zest i n a large skillet

both cooking method a n d in t h e combinations o f flavors you want. It's a

from the heat. Add the spinach and sprinkle with salt (scasoning the

good fish to cook with the skin on. both for the dramatic visual appeal

spinach before it wilts ensures even seasoning. Cook the spinach until it

and for the flavor. This dish is a contrast in textures: the crisp skin on

wilts. then continue to cook for another 2 to 3 minutes to evaporate the

the moist flesh of the fish. and the toasty exterior of the spinach balls

moisture. Remove the spinach from the pan and separate it into 6 parts.

surrounding their soft interior. The sauce uses a mussel stock. but not

Take each pile of spinach. place it in a clean tea towel. and twist the towcl

the cooked mussels; the mussels would be delicious seIVed cold with

around the spinach to squeeze out any remaining liquid and form a

Sauce Gribiche (page 2 1 4) .

compact ball. Remove from the towel. Refrigerate the spinach balls until ready to complete the dish.

146

F O R T H E M U S S E L S T O C K : Place the mussels in a pot with the garlic.

FOR

shaBot. thyme. bay leaves. and wine. Cover the pot and bring to a boil;

Beginning at the narrow end. cut Ill-inch pieces. When the parsnip half

THE

PA R S N I P

P U R E E ; Slice the parsnips lengthwise in half.

remove each mussel as soon as it opens. Reserve the mussels for another

widens. about one third of the way up. split it lengthwise again and

use. Strain the mussel stock through a chinois (sec page 73).

continue to cut. (You want to keep the pieces about the same size.)

The F r e n c h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

Place the cut parsnips in a saucepan with 1 cup of the heavy cream.

continue to cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. or until the fillets are

the water. and salt. Bring to a boil. lower the heat. and simmer gently for

almost cooked. Turn the fillcts and "kiss" (briefly cook) the flesh side of

25 to 30 mmutes. or until the parsnips are completely soft. Strain the

the fish. Remove the fillets from the pan.

parsnips. reserving the cream, and scrape the parsnips through a tamis (sec page 73) with a plastic scraper. Put the puree in a bowl and stir in enough of the strained cream to give them the texture of mashed potntoes. Transfer to a small saucepan and keep in a warm place. Preheat the oven to 350째F. FOR

THE

S A F F R O N .V A N I L L A

While the fish cooks. reheat the parsnips over low heat and stir in remaining I tablespoon cream and the butter. Place a pool of sauce on each serving: plate. Spoon some parsnip purce into the center of the sauce and top the puree with a spinach ball. Set the fish fillets. skin side up. on the spinach and serve.

SAUCE:

Scrape the seeds from the

P l C T U It[ O ON ' A G E

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

1 48

vanilla bean into a small saucepan and add the vanilla pod. mussel stock. and saffron threads. Bring the stock to a simmer. then simmer until

O N

C R I S P I N G

S K I N

reduced to a glaze (I to Ph tablespoons). Add the cream and simmer for a few more seconds. Over medium heat. whisk in the butter bit by bit (as

I love the texture and flavor of perfectly crisped fish skin. and there's a

you would for beurre montc). It is critical to maintain the sauce at the

key step in preparation that ensures proper crisping: getting as much

correct temperature, as it can break if it becomes too hot or cold. Strain

Il)oisture out of the skin before cooking as possible. Skin will not crisp.

the sauce and

nux

for several seconds with an immersion blender to

emulsify (if you don't have an immersion blender, you can use a regular one. but rinse out the blender container with hot water before adding the sauce. so it stays warm). Keep the sauce in a warm place.

obviously. if there's water in it. Skin that is too moist will take a long time to crisp, and you will overcook your fish. The way we prepare the fish is to take the blade of a knife and drag it over the skin. pressing down gently but firmly to force the water to the

Melt the 2 teaspoons butter in a small ovenproof

surface. then pulling the knife back over the s\...;n to squeegee off the

skillet and roll the spinach balls around in 11. Place the skillet in the oven

water. Repeat this pressing and scraping until you've gotten as much

to warm while you cook the fish.

water out of the fish skin as possible. This will allow you to achieve criSp

COMPLETE-

Heat l/a inch of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Season

fish skin without overcooking the flesh.

the fish with salt and white pepper. When the oil is hot, add the fish fillets. skin side down. Press a lid or another pan down on the fish to flatten the fillets and keep the skin in direct contact with the skillet. Cook this way for a minute. or until the fish is "set. H Remove the lid and

Fhh

147

---

_ _ _-==---="-_ -=c;o_ _� _=__-___=_ _=_ =_ __"'_ - _ -_.= _ _ _ _ �-=-.�_

--_ _ _ _ _ -

Above' Block StO Bon with Sweet PO'1nlpl, Affowleol Splnoch. ond Solf.on.vonilio Souc.... potl0

148

Th� FrenCh laundry

Cookbook

1 �6

J r

150

T h e F r e n c h l O \J n d r y C o o k b o o k

OPPO.;,� ond o\J.ov� Pon·ROOI'�d Striped BOil ...ltll Al1lclloh Ro.loll, poO�

IS2

Pan·Roasted Striped Bass ,."ith Artichoke Ravioli and Barigoule Vinaigrette

--------�o�--

ARTICHOKE

RAV I O L I

1 recipe Artichokes Barlgaule (page 63)

1 teaspoon sugar

'I.. cup plus 1 tablespoon extra virgIn olive all

2 teaspoons unsalted butter

Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper BASS

'I.. teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

Pinch of freshly ground block pepper, or to taste

3 tablespoons tomato diamonds (see page 203)

Conolo oil

2 teaspoons olive all

1 tablespoon chopped Italian parsley

6 thIck squore pIeces striped bass fjllet

2 sheets Posta Dough for ravioli (page 78)

'I.. cup 8eurre Monte (page 1 35)

1 lorge egg yolk, beaten for egg wash

Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper

Cornmeal for dusting ravioli

B A R I G O U l E V I N A I G R ET T E

Kosher solt and freshly ground whIte pepper

VEG ETABLE GARNISH

Reserved braisIng liquid from Artichokes

2 to 3 tablespoons unsolted butter

36 carrot batons (sweet bunch carrots, cut 1 Inch by 'I.. Inch by

(about 3 ounces each), skin on (see On Crisping Skin, page 147)

Borigoule (above), strained

'I.. Inch)

1 2 white pearl onions, peeled and trimmed of their root ends

112 cup chopped shallots

Basil Oil (page 1 66), In a squeeze bottle

III cup chopped garlIc

6 sprigs chervil

3 cups dry white wine

12 red peart onions, peeled and trimmed

% teaspoon sherry vinegar

of their root ends

here's nothing quite like the meaty quality of striped bass. You can

surface o f the dough with egg wash. Mark 1 2 circles in the dough with the

crisp the skin well without overcooking the flesh. The vinaigrette

dull side ofa 2- inch round cutter. leaving at least liz inch between them.

for this dish is made from a reduction of the Artichokes Barigoule

Center 1 tablespoon of the artichoke filling in a mound on each circle.

liquid. so it's intense and brilliantly flavored.

Lineup one end of the second sheet of dough along one end of the dough and carefully drape the pasta sheet over the filling. pressing down

F O R T H E A R T I C H O K E RAV I O L I ; Cut

1 6 slices about I inch long from

2 of the artichoke hearts and set aside for the garnish.

offillingto press out any air bubbles. Using the very tip of a paring knife.

Chop enough of the remaining artichoke hearts to make a generous

gently poke a hole in each ravioli toward the bottom of the filling (this

3/4 cup. Mix together with the sah. pepper. and olive oil. Strain all the

will help any steam that builds up during cooking escape). Using a 2 11.. _

barigoule braising liquid and reserve. Place a sheet of pasta dough on a lightly floured surface. Brush the

152

bet " ..een the mounds of artichoke. Run your fingers around each mound

The French laundry Cookbook

inch fluted round cutter. cut out the 12 ravioli. You will need 6 ravioli for this dish; the rest can be frozen for future usc.

parchment paper. lightly dust it with 'ith . Line a baking sheet ...

motor on and slowly drizzle in the olive oil. Season to taste. the vinaigrette

cornmeal. and place the ravioli on it. If they are to be used within a few

should have a nice tart flavor. Sct the vinaigrette aside in a warm spot for

hours, cover lightly and refrigerate. For longer storage. they can be

a few hours. Any extra vinaigrette can be refrigerated and used in salads.

frozen on the baking sheet. then removed and stored in plastic bags:

TO C O M P L E T E : For the bass. heat about 1/, lOch of oil in a large skillet

cook them while still frozen.

over medium-high heat. Season the skin side of the fish with salt and

F O R T H E V E G E TA B L E G A R N I S H : Place the carrot batons in a small

sprinkle the other side \\;th salt and white pepper. Place the fish skin side

saucepan, add lightly salted cold water to cover. and bring to a boil. Cook

down in the hot oil. turn down the hcat to medium and cook for

the carrots for about 3 minutes. or until they are tender; drain in a

2 to 3 minutes. pressing down on the pieces with a spatula to criSp the

strainer and chill in an Ice-water bath. Drain again. dry the carrots on

skin. until the fish is almost cooked. Turn thc fish over and cook on the

paper towels. and set aside.

second side for 3 minute to finish the cooking. "Kiss." or cook vcry briefly.

Place the white and red pearl onions in two separate small sauce足

the sides of the fish in the hot oil just to set. l..aythe fish skin side up in the

pans with water to cover by 1/2 inch. Add 1/2 teaspoon of the sugar and

pan. pour off the oil from the pan. and add the butter. Cover the pan and

1 teaspoon of the butter to each pan. Bring to a boil. turn down the heat.

let the fish cook for another 30 seconds. then remove the pan from thc

and cook for 12 to 14 minutes. until the liquid has cvaporated and the

heat and let the bass steam. still covcred. for 3 to 4 minutes.

onions are glazed. Be careful not to scorch the onions as the liquid reduces. At the end of cooking, add the red wine vinegar to the red pearl onions to help maintain their color. Set aside.

Meanwhile. cook the ravioli in lightly salted boiling water for 5 to 6 minutes. or until cooked through. Rcmove from the pot and drain. Warm the reserved artichoke slices. carrots. pearl onions. tomato

F O R T H E B A R I G O U L E VI N A I G R E TTE : Skim any fat from the top of

diamonds. parsley. and beurre monte in a small saucepan. Season to

the strained braising liquid: you should have about 4 cups of liquid.

taste with salt and white peppcr.

Place the shallots. garlic. and white wme in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil and reduce the liquid for about IS minutes. or until the pan is almost dry. Add thc barigoulc liquid and cook for about 30 minutes. or until the liquid has reduced to about I cup. Strain the liquid into a small saucepan and discard the shallots and

Check the consistcncy of the vinaigrette; if it is too thick. stir in a small amount of hot water. Squeezc a 2- inch ring of basil oil onto the center of each plate. Fill the center of each with a spoonful of the vinaib'Tette. Top the vinaigrette with an inverted ravioli (rounded Side down) . Place a piece of fish on the

garlic. Continue to reduce the liquid until it IS reduced and syrupy (about

ravioli and top the bass with the vegetables and sprib"S of chervil.

I/S cup). Strain the reduction into a blender and add the vinegar. Turn the

P l C T U R l D ON ' A co n

1 50 AND 1 5 1

M " lC l S 6 $ [ R V ' N G S

pucl rat: M o l w i l l i J1J'(-Hh SoyIH,! l l n H . Scu l l 1 0 1 1 n n d n n d l H h S n l n d , n n d 80y-'I'0 1 11p l o O.'ong-c Gluzc

RADISH SALAD

ORANGE GLAZE

I toblC$poorI lomata diamond$ ($CO poge 203)

.. poon . finely lulienned ><o1I1on 3 tobl

2 cups fresh OfOngO Juke

2 tCO$poons Brunolsc (poge 1 55)

(about

I I""h long)

2 toblfHpoonS (I ounce) cold unsalted butter.

3 loblc$f>OOO' finely lullonned swect bunch (,Qrtot (oboul I Indl long)

3 IObiCHpoon$ ffnoly lullenned (about

,odl$h

I '''''h long)

3 toblespoons Bourro Mont4!o (poge 1 35) MOt

cui Inlo 4 pieces

'/. teo$poon soy souce

Canolo all

SOYBE A N S

Six 3'h- by 1 .lnch pieces mot fillet, skin on

(see On Cri.P;ng Skin, poge 1 47)

'/. cup (3 ounces) wiled fresh wybeon$.

1 loblfHpoon dM)pped chh-e1

bkmchcd fOf obout 8

lAmon all h • • Sou''''', pog. 315)

(... Bla·Pot BIo""hlng,

Kosher soft

mlnute$. Of until tcnder

000 freshly ground while pepper

poo. 58), chilled In

Icc water, 000 drained

Un II ,'('('c'ltl 1I'Ip 10 I lnwu l l . I rmlnet Ih," '(' l'xc' l l l l I ", I II'\\' ruod " t o 1 I I I I'uellle,· to

fJlII' I(II('IIC'II, 'r',,'" ur IIII" H , 11101 lind

r"f,,,, 1 ! "," ('1'11 Hoyht'IIII".

" " .'

c.'oll,hllu·c! In

1 1 1 1 " c l I " " . (Tltl' 1 1 1 1 1'(1 WII'" r,'('"11 h" I U'IM o r

1'111111-"" '"

"'llh

I�

T he r t e n c h l(lu n d ty C o ol....looir.

pH"'"

70" M ul 1M II whll(' rl",h

101 or rill In I I . whll'l. I" tlUI""I1I,

n putting this dish together-one of my few nods 10 As.:'1l cUllun

I R U HO n [

I .....:mlcd to support the Integnty of the dish by usang other products

indigenous to the arca ..... here the fish IS cau ·ht. The fresh green

I port COHOh,

�Iccd

IcnQthwlsc on 0 n'lOndoIl/'lC Inlo Vlo·lnch·lhlck ,trip,

soybc;t"s ..... e found there wcrc am:l1.wg. Fresh soybc:uus come three to .:I

port turnip,.

�lct"d

�nglhwiso on a mondollnc Inlo Vlo·lndHhkk 'IIlp'

pod and arc :I lillIe smaller and a little falter th;an £3\'3 beans, wnh a

Ih port lC!'ek orccm (doril. oreen port)

slightly morc :1SSCrtl\'C n3\'Of. mit)' 1n3)' not be casy to fllld-somellmcs you' ll see them 31 farmers' o r As.3ft markets.) AmI I fuushed tlus thsh of

Brunolsc. \'I hal wc c311 our lin ellce of SI3))1t" " I:'t-\ctalJlc14. 114 u!lell oflcn I'IS

Hawaiian items With a Polyncsiau- IIUilHred orange- boulel) gl:11.c whh 80y

a g::mu8h al the French l...lumlry. llnlhcr Ih:m m:aklllg II Mlllnll cl uAlitily.

Sauce. I usc temple oranges because they' re vcry sweet and hn\'!! " dec i)

make a large hatch allti frcetc II.

orange color. but you can usc other oranges. If you can' , get mOl. you nught SUhSlllute Ilomp:mo or pike.

CUI all lhe \'cgttahlt8 I1lto III. - lIIeh Jullellne Slrl P" aml lhrll cut arros" to make III", IIlrh (licc.

About I hour heforc serving, pbce Ihe juhcnned

UI3nch r:lth \'eg�l:thl(' 8cparaleiy in lightly slllted hOlllllg \� ;tl('r 10 tlct

scallion, CourOI. nnd radish in a bowl of icc watcr. TIlc SC.1IlIOI1S ",,11 curl

the ('olor 311ti 8oflen Ihe \'rget3hl(,M. For 1i1ll311 amOnn11i of \'r�l"t!lhlcK, 11'8

and the chilling will enable Ihe \'egclablc8 10 hold 3 tighter neSI.

C381clit to pbcc the vt'getahlt'8 111 3 8Ir;\l11rr :lIul !Ullllllr.rge IlIl" strJllwr III

FOR THE SALAD

FOR THE ORANGE GLAZE

Pl:lcc thc orange JUlcc l n a small sauccp:UI

and reduce over medlllll1 heal to a duck glne (ahout III cup). Sct 31iId«:. FOR

THE

SOYOEANS

Combine the soyheauR. tom:I1O e..hamomls.

brunoise. and beurre montc In a pim and heat o\'er low he:lt. Keep warm. TO C O M P L E T E

IIcat the orange gla7.e to a simmer and wlusk III the

hUller piece hy JHece. Add the soy saucc :Inti kecil ihe g!:'l/c \\'arm. Drain the Iced \'egetables and loss lhcm \'o'ith the chm!s anti a small

Ileal aboul

ami plunge II mto ICC \'Ialer for 01 fc\\ hCCOllIls to clllll lhc \'egf'lahll'" nlltl tiel the rolor. Thcll ltft oUl lhe 8tralner .1nll l,l:&re the \,C/;l'llI l>lc'8 u n )l1l 1,er to\\c\S to dram. When all the \egcl;thIC8 art' IJInnchrd ,'11111 elr,lIncct, mix Ihelll togcther III a co\'ered COIl131 11('r 011111 rl'fn�t'rillc ror uJI 10 II day. For lonl)er IiIc)r.I�e. sprt'al! the clr;llllt"11 hnlllClUle on It tray nlll! plnrC' the tray III the fCCC'ICC uI1111 frmC'l I . Store Ihe fro/ell hnlliOIKt III It w('11 Iwaleel

amount of lemon oil. F O R T H [ MOl

Ihe bOIling \'I3ler. When Ihe \'q;ctab!c8 arc cooked, 11ft out Ihe (ilr,tlller

'!. Illch of 011 III a large "klllc'l o\'cr medIUm

plasllC bag 111 the:" frccu�r You C.1Il mie the hnllHHKe dlrt'ctly from the

heat. Season the fish \\llh S.J1t and while pepper. Add thc mal flllris dan

free/er In reclll(,s \II h("(' It Iii \'Iarrnrd IIl·fore "crvln�.

side down :'IIld cook for 2 to 2 1/z IIllnutcs. occasIOnally prcsslIIg dowlI on

" ' T U l t D Olj " "' Co t

the pieces with a spatul3 lo hc1p lJrowll lhe skill. Flip the fillets and "kiSS" (jusl lmeny cook) the other Side. then removc the mOl rrom the pall. Place 2 1 0 3 teaspoons of the or.1nge gl:11e 111 the center of cach plate. Placc ahoul I tahlcsJloon of the soylJC'an mixture III the.' center of Ihe glaze. :llIowlng 11 to sprcati wto the gla/t'. Place thl' mOl skill sidl' up o\'er the healls. Celltly pl:lcc a small l)llc of the crllil' s;1lati 011 OIlC end of c'aeh n101 fillet anti scn'c.

201

" F I S H

Heel M l i l ho, w J 1 1 l

PA L E T T E S

A N D

C H I P S "

Iln/t-lIt· II'" ''

/)011.1' u l l d G , . 1'1 h.' C h t P H

REO MULLET

'11 cup panko (Japanese breod Clumt»;

2 10'00 Of 3 medium heads QOrf/c. cloves

s.ee Source1, pooo

Conolo all

3 1 5) Of dry brrod crumbs.

finely oround In 0 blender and sifted through

..paroled and �ed (3r/, ou"",,) 5 hord·bolled egg yolks

1 2 red mullet fillets, skIn on

(sec On C,bping Skin,

a " ralner

pogo 147)

I '!, loblcnpoons unsoiled butler, $Oftcncd

PARSLEY COULIS

Kosher Mllt and freshly ground white pepper

Ko1her s.olr to IO\la

3 10 4 IorOC buncl.,. ( 1 2 ounccs) Itollon pa"Jey

PA R S L E Y S A L A D

'11 cup oll.purJ>OW flou,

I tablespoon Bcurrc Montc (poge 1 35)

1/. cup smoll Iiollon po�ley leaves

'I] cup heavy acom

Kmhc, sol! to loslo

1 teaspoon finely minced shollot Extra virgin olive oil

Pinch o f kosher so h Aboul 3 6 Garlic Chips

' O R T u r 'A L ( T T B

Pbc� the ,",urlie in a finlall ll:lUCt'P:1I1 Willa cold

should have aboul lh cup o( pllr�e. It can be rdngcro1tcd (or lip 10 2 days. l I eat aboul

'I.

Inch o( canola 011 In il large nonstick

Willer W cuver ;11111 !lrlug 10 a hoil. f)ralJl lhc g:l rlic i n a Klllali lltr.11IlCr.

TO C O M P L £ T [

1.:001 1111111·, cold WIlier. "ful rt'JU'i1t tht' I 'rOC(,'''I, H" ,U':lt :I tJll rcl lllllC. hut

likillel OYer IlicdlUlTI IlIgh heal (there should he enough 011 to come

liilh

Ihl" tilllf' holl IIII' garlic dOVt'ff ullIiI IIII'Y arc Hoft and th("rt' Iff no

about hal(.....ay lIJi the suicli o( Ihe (Ish), Scason the red mullel w l l h

rc"IHIMICt' "")"'" tllt'y Me plcrc" d Wllh fI Hl'Jlilli kl1lfc, Dralll Ih«· garlic

and white pepper. ;uhl Ihe (Illets skill side down and S3U16. prc8�lIlg

elm','",

,/, cup for tlit, fI:clelle,

clown on the pieces o( filih wllh a It:lrrow spatula or small skillet to keep

hlllll'r. and 1i:11t HI a 1111111 food

Ihem nal. WIIt'Il the fish 18 alrl108t cooked, a(ter nbout I nunlltc. turn the

UUIHh thc'III ItIiKhtly. :1IId IIIC:IISlirc (Jul

PIIlc,' IIII' garlic purl·c.

" IU; yolkH.

proc'('"tllJr IInci hlelul unlll ..IIwnlh. L'lle n 11111.'111 pan wllh p).11iIiC ",'rap

JlICCCB IO "kIlH,." or hneny cook. Ihe second lilde. TIlc 101.11 cooking lime

fllul Kpn'flcl llw IlIlxlUrt' in II. I n a IlJ Inch Ihlck layer. C.oyer :and frt'l'l.e

Will he ahout I liz mlnute8, "emm'e the (11Ie18 10 paper lowels 10 drain.

for ;wvt'rIll hount, UII1II tilt' rnu;ture IH 1101111. or UJl IU a f" w claYK,

Add the (({m:n Iwlel tt:s to Ihe pan and hrown (or aboul I minUle on

CUI Hix I 'h IlIc'la dlHkl1 from the: (roo' II garlic IIllxl urr, Place Ihe

cach Side. unlll CriSp nnd w.1r1ned through.

nour, ('reMII, IIwl enunh" III Ihree NI'parah' dUihf'K, DI I ' l':ICh .flsk mlo

M E A H W ti l l [ . F O R T H [ PA R S l [ Y S A L A D

II.,. nOllr. pl1ll1l1g 0(( any I'X('CKH, tht'll comp!t'ldy coat wllh cream and

fihallol" With a IIHIII coalill/:to( oll\'c 011 and the sah.

Toss llle par8lcy lc:wc8 and

dn!"Kt' ill the ('nlluhK, helllg c:lreful to coat cadi roulld cfllIlJlletdy.

Place the panlley pur'c III a slll:111 saucepan and re .....arm II. Check

HClhp a KI'c:onli 1 1 lilt' In Iht' crcalll and ('nullhK nnll n'turIl tllC' p:cll'lIeH 10

the conslstellcy: II shl>ulel lJe Ihat o( a sallce. I( It 18100 tlllck. thlll II with a lillIe walef; I ( II

IIII' (n'c'/I'r,

rOR

l ll [

PAR S L E Y

CO U l l S

DII1I'anl t ill' IHugh KtemH (rom the

ItarNlc'y. Y,III Nhoilid 11fI\'I' :lllIlIIt " JHlchd cUP" o( It'avrll :1 nil telltl,'r "Ielllii. BlIlIlC'h thc' JlMHI«'y (N«'C' Big Pot B1:III('IIIIIJ.;'. pagc' 5H) u n t i l tl'wlt'r ,Ind (('WOY" 11/

OncC' till' parHlry IN ('0111, clmln ll ;11111 'I< I III'C' /I, t lll' C'X('I'NII "'ilter (rolll lilt' mixtllre

10 I lI rn.

Hlcllli th,' l 'i1rlilry 10 Il purr" , SJlfI·..d IIII' "lIrh 011 .1

tnllllH (Hc'e l 'ilJ.;'C' 73) ami nllow to HII (or

IIIll1Ulrll to II ro'll II nny C'XCl'K8

11c l ulcl. Dlllrnrd Ihe liquid rlllcl paHN thr JlurtlC' through til(' 1;1111114. You

T h o r r o n , " L o u n d r y C o o l. b o o l.

Hi 11)0 thin, simmer hricny (heal can caUSe the pur�e to

change' color, fiO cook II ali !atllc a li pos8Ihle). Slir in the hetlrrc monl6 awl se.1KolI wllh Nalt In 1381e. 1'1:1('" 3 t1poon(ul o( Ihe parsley couhs 011 cach serving plate. CCnlcr a palclle 011 tlU' titlUCc anel cnlificrofill iwo rcd mullel (11I('tli. likIn 8Ide up.

a bnwi II( irr walt'r.

tile' lenvrll, Plac,· thc JlarNI/'Y In a hlc'IICIe'r W i t h J""t c'IIIJUK" "'au'r to :lllow

ISO

(recipe follows)

O\'tr coe('h Dill', Tnp Wllh a slack o( p:lrsley salad alltl garlic clllr8 :uul 8erYe IflllIlC'dltHcly. file T U lL t 0 0'1

' '' Co t

1 !J 8

G A R L I C

C H I P S

Gartic cloves Cold milk Canolo all for deep·frying

The unexpecled tiling ahout garlic chips IS Ihelr crispness, liolllrlllln� you don' t normally associate wllh garlic , Blanchmg Ihe hr:l rllc c10vcs III milk leaches oul some of lilt, lllttcrncss ami make" Ih(,111 N\\l'ctcr,

ChipS, garlic doesn ' t become so fono. arc! Ihal you ' re 11\'ln.; \\ lIh II for Iht, rest of the night.

Slice Ihe garlic c10vcs as dun as pOSSlhlt· on a lIlandol llw, 1)lact.' tlit' bhc('s in a small S3uccp:m anti cover \\1111 ('olel milk, Bring the milk 10 a hOll, then d r:l l n the garlac slaces III ;J blramt'r (tillic:ml the Hull) and rinse them unde r cold \\alt'f. H('turn tIll' b!JCC'Il to tht, pan and rt'lll'at tht' process three t l lll(,8, lIolng fresh IIlllk each tllllt', Pal tilt' gJrhc I'Illcl'b til) on pap('r 10\\ cis , Ht'at lht' 011 III a dt'f' P saucepali lO :W O° F, Add tltt' .,11('('s ICI thl' hot 011 anc! fry for

12 10

15 IIIII11Jtt'S, or 1111111 1111' huhhll'8 aruund lilt: c-hlps lIa\'.·

suhllHled (tuglllfYlng Ihal all thl' lIIultiturt· lIah «,\:I (l0rall'll) and tht·y an' a light goldt'li hra\, fl. Dr:lln thl' garl1l' dllJls OIl I':ll't'r tu.... t'ls S i o n' alrl lght 31 room Icmpl'r:1lun' for 1 to 2 tl:l) ti.

Tilt' " ('cI IHIIII('( I,.; J,l1'U l l fylllJ,l (n IIIIII(�·. I I I H I ,'ut . 0\1'" l i n t ! U\I'" UJ,{IIItI.

I t " " ,'Ie I ", 11111 J""'I

1 1 1 1 1 IIUlkl'"

II,,· rl lI\'I H'''' or 1 1 1 1 the' 1'1" 1 1 11 ' 1 1 1 .. , hilt 11 1 ..0 t i l l ' \\II� t h e') lun'e

10,",,'1111'1-111,' 1·,'rI o r I I I I ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ' 1 "J,{uhl'"

1 1 1 , ' IwlJ,{hl J,{ I" " 'I I plIl,.. Il·) " 01 1 1 1 .. lI",nl ..... Ih,'

1t·1I\'I',.. of lh,· PIII,,.. !t'y Hllllle!. I h l ' hl'II" II of I h , '

c ' l I l p,.. ,.. 1 1 1 11 1 1 1 1 " 1'. 1'"11'11,, !'j·t,·,·... 10 I h l ' ,.. 1111 1 '"

1 I I I x l l l l·C'. V'II' 1111'. ( I I I .. , 1 1,.. 1 1 I .. II .. c'I,,,o"

t,'h·tt

( I t ,11 .. 1"

pllll.IIt· .. . t h , ' \\11)' th,' ",11,'11"

ot Ihl' '1/1 (11111.1', "" .. ,"" "

I I I pl· ,'t" I' t I I " II Il" ''',

",II I'"''

160

Tho r , .. n c h L o u n d l y C o a l b o n "

Spotted SlultP

\\,In", w l l h DI'uhH,'d Ih ..· (1 Cnhhu J,tl' un(l M U "' l u t'd S u u <-'('

2 teaspoons flnety mlncrd chh�s

BRAISED RED CABIAGE

M U S TA R D S A U C E

l/� pound red cabbage

Conolo oil

Kosher soli and fre\hty ground block pepper

Jj� cup dry red wine

V� cup chopped leek

S K AT (

I tablespoon duc.k fOI. un�lted butter.

V� cup chopped mushrooms

1 1}z pound, S\.OIC .... ; ng. ,!oJn rCffiO'o-ed. trimmed of CMllagc and any ,cd oreos (hove thc

3 lablespoons chopped corral

or conolo all

Ih cup diced ('h·inch) red onion

Ih cup Veal Siock (page 222)

V� cup finely grated Granny Smith apple

I 10b'e1poon heavy cream

Flour 'Of dusting

VA cup While Veal Siock (poge 222). Vcgctah'e

10 10blC1poOf'1S (5 ouncH) uns.ohed buller.

Conola 011

Siock (page 227). Of WOICf

fishmong�r rClnlO\'\1 tho ,loJn)

Kosher soh

cut Inlo plcc""

2 leaspoons honey. preferably wildflower honey

I lh leaspoons Oljon mu\lard

Ih cup finely graled peeled russet poialO

I lh teaspoons grainy mu"ord

Kosher soh and freshly ground black pepper

I 10ble1poon Brunolse (poge 155)

like skate becausc of ItS ropy tcxlUrc, It' s an easy fish to cook. bccause it doesn't fall apart whcn cookcd al lugher temper-utlres. ancl YOll lhuli

Mustard Powd�f

(pooo 233)

II:UlIe. 811rrlllg oftc:n. ror 2 10 3 minu1(·Ii. o r ulllll lhc Vc:gt'lllhtt'K arc Ii�htl car:tllldl'lt'd Acltl the \c:l1 tlloc\... :llld tUlUlIlU for 5 10 7 IlllnutcM, o r until

ha\'e grcal opportullIty for cnspncss. I usc spotted. as opposc:d 10 rc:d or

the liqUId h:ls ((,llu('cd to a giact' 1\ClI1o\'c from Iht' hr:lt nnd lit't a!lhle,

gray. Lecausc il lS a smaller fish. Willi a marc compaci texturt',

f O R Tit( �KAT(

Cut the' Mkalt' Into (. rc('uUlh,,&1ar porllon" (nbout 3

ounce8 t'arh) . The plet'cd should he llhout :\ IIIcht'M lIy ,I IIIrhr", hilI tht' FOR T H E 8RAIHD R E D CA88AGE

I\emo\'e the IllICk nbs from the

actual "I1C "'III dcpcnd 011 the Itllck nt'88 nlUl lUll' flf the skutt' wlIIgl lflhc

cabbage and cut the lea\'cs Into cluffonadc, long narrow stnps ahout 'I.

Inect III \1'1) thm, )011 111:&)' nt'('ti to cUl largt'r 11I('('t'1i nml folll lhrlU m'cr,

Inch", Ide, Place thc cabhagc and red wlnc III a large 110\'0 I, toss together,

co\'cr, :lnd rcfngcr:uc overlllght.

blllllll('r, Wlmk II) tilt' lIulIC'f I'u'cr hy ple('t', :ulchng IUlotllt'r IIIC('(' only

CO M PL l T I

II r thc ('rram 11110 the IIIUIiIOl nl ll.'l uc(, nntl lInll).; 10 n

Thc next day, prl'hCal lhc ovcn to 350oF,

OIlC(" II\(' I Ift'\ IOUII IJlcct' hall ht't'1I 1 1l('OrpOrillell Strilll1 tht." saUCr thruugh a

I n il deep o\'cnproof pan. ",arm thc duck fat O\'cr IIIcdlUm 10\'0 hl'at

clIlIlOIs (sct' llagt' 73) InlO a limall tiaucrl'an Willtlk III huth lIIutltant!l. the:

Add Ihe red 0111011 amI cook gl'nlly until II bcgllls to rdcanc liS hClllld. abOUI 5 IIllllulcS Stir III Ihe cahhagl' ami the fIlanll31l11g IIquul, till' applcs, and �ilock. Cow'r","h:t parchmcnliul (SCl' pagc 1 90), placc 111 tl1C' o\'('n, and conk for al10UI 2 hours. ulltll moSI of till' IlfluHI 113" ('\aporJII'd Hl'rIlo\'c the pJII from the OHIl, add Iht' hOllc and POI,CIO, and Kllr

hnllloific, �mcl <'1m ['8

('a!'lun 10 latilc \001 I Ih !ialt ;ultl pt' l'pcr :1IIcl k('t'p harm.

l\eh" ,11 tht' rrd c.I"hagc u\c'r 10h ht'al I tr,ll I,. lIleh of canub Oil III

large lialltl' ",III m't'r IIIc',hulII hrl&t,

Llghtl dunt r:ceh portion of Iik.llC' "'lIh nour, palling urf nny C')'('t'MM, alltt plact' ifi llII' hot 0,1

I'a�on Iht' fl�h \'0 IIh 8alt Jlltl (,ClO\... for 1

tu 2

IlItnLltetl,

hdi lo comlllllc, I f lhe cahbagehCl'IIIS dry. add I 4 CUJI of",atC'r He e()\t'r

haltllflK Illt' 1i�;III' 0['('a8IOnnll)

hllh Ihe parcillllc'nl l'aper and ((·turn 1U tll(' O\cll for an fllMlllOnal :m IU

o n Iht' flrNt liIIl" . Turn tlw flll('ll'Iallll ['ouk un Ila' �t'cc)1Il1 !llIh' fhr another

45 IlI UlUtcS, or lIlItli Illl' cabbagc' ;HIII POl,llOl'fI

IIIllIule, IIr \lntll tht, flllh Iii IlP:HI UI" throul{lHllI1 (t·()o\.dnl( 111111' \001' 111 V.II),

h'lHln ,lIld ha\'t.' a notlccal.)l' cn';1l1ll llt'n'i Theft' h lil lie' .lpprOlI1ll3tt'l) I I 1 cUllh of cahl'l�e fm.'

Sc:tbon to laSft' h Ith t;llt ami l't'l'pl'r TIll' ('ahhagt' ean lit' hlOrrd, (·CI\C'rI'cl. IIl lhl' rcfngrrJlUr for up 10 5 da)N FOP TH(

TAJl D � A u c r

Itl'at ,I film of callula (1II m :l lIU'cliulII

\001 1111

the all. 1111111 till' fish 'M gol,lc'l1 hrown

dc'pt'lubliK UII thr tIIlC�'H'K!i (If Ihl" 11It'('(''')

Plalt'

fi)HlllnfuI 1/flht' MaIlCt' un t'Olrtl Nt' 1'\ 1 I11( I.latt' luI ' ", " h the red ,c hilt' of II1UhHml lH)\oOIII('r MJ\oOI 1i UIIC' r"lIt, of

eahlJ,IKt' .IIHI Nbtt, SpnnJ.. ' "

t',1rh plait' ,ifill M'f\I' IIIIIIWthah'ly

h:lUCCJlall o\'t'f mt'(Iiull! ht.':ll Add till' It'('kll, mUlihroolllN, ,lIlll ('afrutN .11111

n,h

16 1

' S U R F

A N D

T U R F '

S n l l l eC.'" �·foJlI'rtHh TuB w H h O,'nbtcd O x t n l l H . S U I H l fy. n ll d Cc:.·pCI-I

I teaspoon chopped italian parsley

SALSIFY AHO ctPES

8RAISfD OXTAILS

4 salsify (obour 8 oun=), pc<!ed

1 tablespoon

I lemon. halved

MONKFISH

FIoo, lor d,edg/no

3 WI>' Chicken Slock (poge 226)

Conolo oil

Kcntwrr $011 and freshly oround block pepper

2 .pr1g. Ihyme

Kosher solt and freshly ground white pepper

Ccnolo 011

2 doves oartlc, cru�

I qUO" Veal 510ck (pogo 222), healed

2 toblespoons ( I ounce) unsolted

I qua" Chlc""n Slock (pogo 226), healed,

Ccnolo 011

5 pounds aldolls.

cut Into

1 1J2·1nch·thkk piec.ft

I ,«/po Red Yn"" Morlnodo (pogo 190)

8 monkfish medallions about 1 Inch thick

2 tablespoons Beutte Monte (page 1 35)

about

Ih cup tomalo dlomonch

stems removed, cops deaned and sliced about If. Inch thick

Few dtop, whllo wInd vln090r

V. cup Scurro MontI! (pogo 1 35)

2 tablespoons chopped Italion parsley

't.. Inch thick, Of 1 6 shIItakes.

't.. cup Orunol$O (pogo 1 55) (wo pogo 203)

(about 2 OUJ'lCC'S coch)

bvn�

16 $.mOil c� (porclnls), deo� and slked

Of hOI waler

Beurre Mont� (poge 1 35)

lob/..poon B,unol.. (poge 1 55)

en', lhe lIIonk(lIlh iH 80 lSolu.! und 8I1hIUanti:ll lh:11 i1 C.3J1 lw()pon the

impurities h3ck illto the liquid ralher than separatillg them.) Skim and

rlehne,,,, or the OXHJiJlS. ami the comhl1l311on of (18h ;and nch

discard the IIII IlUnlle8 and olher parllcles a8 they rise 10 the surface. Remo\'c from the heat.

Imll,lt'ci Hlettl r<'flulrlS I n !l ve'l)' c,1 rthy dlldl. Scaring Iht' 1111:;11, then ,,10"'" cooJ,ollK II 10 eKlr;1ct IIIJ na\'Ord and ,hotlC of thl' vCKr"'''It'1i inlo Ihc "rnising liquid r':liul!l i n a "falling orr

Prcheat the OVen 10 325°F, Place the nour 111 :1 dish. Pat lh(: oXlalls dry and dredge Ihem in the nour Just to coat. Lightly season Wllh salt and pepper. lIe..t If. I Ilch of 011

Ihl' holU'" tewIC'r!lf'1i1i illlcl lIlc'al lhal lllt'llll In ),our rnoulh. MUllkfhill IHlII :1 hl!{h lolf'ranct' for ('ookl ng-i( )'ou m:1th'Crh:l1ll),

In a large deep pot o\'er medIUm heat. (The amollnt of

rnay seem

nv('(couk h, h ",'on ' l he caltullroJihic ;11111 .... hen Ih.: fl8h 11118 per(tCI

eXCeIlSI\'c. hilt 11 ..... 111 kcep lhe mc'al (rom hurn,ng-and slidangto Ihe pan,

CIOIll'IH'IIII, 1I 1e-lIdll 10 hnng Ihere for .. .....hlle. SIVlllg you some Ict:",'a), i n

The lI1('al ""III ahsorh ollly a certain amount of oll .. nd I( YOU don ' , usc enough, the nOllr may hurn alltl llllpan a lultcr n;l\'or.) Add Ihe oxtails 10

illI l'onklng I hllc.

the hot 011. 10 halche8 If necessary. OInd 8car Ihem on one sule.' ulllil they Dh·jdc the OXI:1I18 hct .....ccn IWO

reach a nch deeJi brown color, 1)0 not hurn the nour. but allow the

n'lIl'fllnhll' plnllilc hngll nnd adel hnl( the manliluic 10 (Oleh of them. Sr.11

o�lallK to bro",'" hcfon' allclIl)lllng 10 1II0VC them around. Then tiC.1r the

r O J(

T il E

U Ji A I S l D

O X TA i l S

tllf' IIIIW' nnd pln('" Ihl'lII III till' rdrtgl'r;llOr for

18 to 20 hourA,

tlirlUllg

IlwlIl I)II('C' nr 1.....lrc' 10 clllllniJulc' Ihl' 'IHlrln:ulc, Thl' IIt'XI dn)'. tr;lIIl1(cr tht' 1IIl','" to Ollt' ('onl'lIner Mul tllt' ,'cKc'lailleli tel :l lIlIlllI'r. Str!!11I lilt' 1IIi1r11I1Ii1C Ihrough .. towt'l Iincd 8It\'(' InlO a tlIlIlC"lliHl. (Thill

162

mc;!1 on all liUles, lurnlng ocCo16lollally; cv(!n urowllIngwllI add coloralld na\'or to tile braiSing IIqlllll. Once Ihe oxtalll) :1((: cOlllplelely browned, relllo\'e Ihelll (rolll the pot

0(;111) Ihe 011 (rom

the pan, IcavlIIg any lillie

rrusty partIclt's on thc hot tom of the pall,

Ihl' (1(111 IIIt'p I I I Ihl' dan(I("IIIOIi flroeclill, 10 Olilal!) a

J\dcl lht' rt'servcd "('gelallll'8 (rolll IIII' lII:ml1atll' 10 Ihe pOl. Serai'll'

rll·tllI. rlc'ar 111111('(', I'nurlllK II through lilt' 10M"1 rt'II\O\'Cf! IIOIllt' of 1111'

the "glilze" (rom tht' holtom of I he.' pot and cook the vegelables. sltrnllg

1110011 nlld OIh('r IlIlpurilit'lI lhat ('ould rlo",1 til" 11I1 U111. 1)0 1I0t ..... nl1golll

occaslolI:llly. '0 r,",case Ihclr IIWIKlur(', 3 1 0

Ih(' tCl",'ri! Iht' 1!IIIHlr!!it'" ",oule! Ill' forct"11 had.. 11110 Iltt' 11I111Id,) Slo",ly

Ihe 1lI0Uil urt' haR e.·\'aporatc·t! OInt! the 1 '01 18 rcgla1.cd,

IUlIlUtt8, Then cook lIntal

hl'lIt Ihc' mnrinadc IU rt iU IIIIIlt"r. ( l It'illlIlg lilt" IUluid \\111 COilh'ultilc Iht'

Orglan' tht' pOI It) atldlllg Ihe clanfll'll marlnallng hlJUld ;Hld

rt'l1ulillillK IIlood prolrlllK, 1.111 lu�ntlllg 100 'I'"ckl)' ilia), pull lilt'

IlIlrrllll; agaill. Hedllcc unlll 111061 of Ihe marlnallng I"pud has

T h a F , e n c h l d u n d f 't

Cookbook

I n \\ hit· .. w,' pull' IIlt'UI ntltl th.h-

lul".h'l· \\ Ith tnll' I:I'U"', Inh,.."'I' \\ IIh

h . IInpU1'11I1I1 I h u l Ilu' h'�I\lI"" " tllltl'l

o..:lulI ... nutl II,,· I"unllth.h UI""

l't'cI

1I 1t'1I 1�'.

" Itlt' "I"H',- I hn l (·lu .... "·nll,- pUll'"

\ \ l l h \ \ 1 1 1 h ' tltth.

Place the K:lllilf) 111 a 1I.,ucepali. SI IIIC'CLC III l!al'

evaporaled. (Hcglaling Ihe pot adds YCI anal her la)er of color and

fOR T H (

Inlenslty of na\or.) Add Ihe hot stocks. (TIle \'caI 610ck 18 tllC n3\'Or base

IClIlon JUice ::and adel the 1C'lUon hahell along " l 1 h Ihl" III0ck, I 8prlg of

of Ihe bralslJlg liquid and the c1l1ckt-n stork or waler " III thlll 1)\(,· \e.,1

thymC'. and the garlic. SIIIlIIll'r for 20 to

slock enough for such long cooking.) Add the lI1t"al to the pot and co\'cr

IlI len1lC'r, dram,

with a parchment lid (sce Jlage 1 1)0), Bring the 11I)l1Id bark to a 61111111er alld 1}lace in the o\en

br.usc for 3 1 'l to ·1 hour8, Wht'n the II1C3t III

S A- n i H

1I1111\1tl"K, or unlli thc K:,I"lf'

Cut IhC' .al8lfy plccell ICllhr-th\Htlr III half allll lhl'u ,'ul IhclII Oil Ihr bl38 1nlo 1 l Ilt'h long P lfCt'II,

cooked, It Will be f:alllng off the bOlle and cornplctd) fender. AI 11118

TO C O M P L t T[

pOint. the oxtails can be lIst'd Illllllcdlatd' o r cooled to roorn

salslf)' »1C'(,C'8 anet Ihe re'lIIallllng K l'rl� of lit) rnt" Utili ('ook, IOIlKlIIg

temperature and then refrigerated for up 10 oJ days,

OCC.lKloIl311)" forahuul 10 IlIlnUIt'K, III1I �I III('d Itrowlll'Cl. l\t'I1UI\'(' frolll

Remon' l he oxtails from the Iuplltl. arlit "hell thc) arc' cool enollgh

Ihe he'.ll

to h:mdle, pull the lI1t'at from the bont's nlC Yield" III dcpend on Iht" cui of Ihe oxtallll: some scCllons h:1 \c a grt'al de:ll 1II0rc: IIlt.1t Ihan ol hC'nl,

Ilcal lhe butle'r III a lIIetliuI11 "killel IInlll hOI. AtM th!'

Mran"lulC', hC':t! a film of 011 III another 111e'lhum "killet :\lul ,mulf Ihe (,(op�8 unlll th�) arC' \'Idl hro\'lnrct Atlll lht'lI\ 10 th� Imllilf 1 I t';" I . Inch of 011 1l1 ;a large 111.. 1111'1. St'3I1UIl tit,· 1II0llkfiKit with tlillt

You Will need 2 CUJlb of mcat for Ihl6 recipe: exira meat call he rC6('n'ec1

3ml "hilt' jlt'JlJlcr. atltl lo tllc pall, aIlI 1 811111(' OH'r llIt'tlllllll hlKI t hrat for

for :llIothcr U6C, Slr:lIn the hralslng hquIII Ihrough a

111 11:1 eap (sct" pagt" 73) or

tHr;lIIlt'r and 1('1 It sn for 10 IHlnult'h 10 gl\C Ihe f3t a rhallct"

ht'paralt"

and Wie 10 the 101) I\t'1II0\C Ihe fOil, plart" tlu' rt'lIl:ulllllg h<)1I1t1 HI a

3holll 3 Ilunules, Ih(,11 IlIrn Iltl' m�clalllOlIll to eook for all tulll ltlOllal

2 IIlIllUlt'1i ,\tlll the 2 tahlcspoonll IH'urrc'

1110111(0 10 the ,tan, hallIe' thl'

flllh , anti aliI I I 13111t'lipoon ('huppt'li p;arlllt' t, Me!HI\'IllIlr, ,tiM hnuHuKt'. 101I1l11H ,1 a:tlllonclK , " l ItcHar. nll,1 Iht,

IIICtillUIl S:HI(,(,'l'an , :lIld IHlIIlI\Cr tll (('dUCl', Whl'lI lhl' I':tll tit't'lIls !Oo Iar�t'

t'UP

for Ih� amoullt of hqlllli. stram lilt' bau("f· through a ('ltlllOI" (M'C paw' 73)

I lito a "mallcr 8aucl'p:tn, " llhout forclliK :111) partlrlcfi Ihrough thc lilt'\ C

: 1'3nile , ami ht'urrr rnorui· 10 thl' li:lllllf allli e�pC II, allli \\arlll lhroul;h I'lacC' ... ")loonf,,1 of th(' 0)'1011111 11) Ihe' ('enlt'r of ('arh platt, Tul' e.1('h

Continue to reduce' Iht· bauee UIIIII II Iii I to 1 1 2 rupli 5tr;1I1I a fln:tl l l lllt' 11110 ;1 8:IlICepilll :IIHI :HltI lhl'

«�scnt'<1 2 CU I'S of fIleal SC'I abllir

IlI'urre' lI Io . uf 10 Ihl' OXl311s ,lilt! \'Iarm Ihroll�h Alit! tht' hn.1II01Kt',

,, " h a monl..f llih lUt'tl.tllton olHl �,lTllllilt till' top "lilt Ihl' K,lllIlfy alill Ct'Jlt'1i Sprinkle \'Ilih Ill(' rrtnallllllKChfJl'l'l'd pandey

rh"

163

1 64

Th. F,.nch Laundry

Cookbook

fused 0i I5

The Imponant thing to know about

.uch II

curry oil, don't �quire �frlgcnlion, "Hard" herbs. luch as

infused oils I' that you must treal the oil like the herb. spice. or

thyme and rOlemu)', don't hlwe a lot of color. 10 we "dd Illlfsicy to the

vegetable ""ith which you infused h.

mixture for color. BeCAuse of the.e herb,' aSlerti\'e Oavon, the n,,\'or of

For herb-infused oils. big-pot bl.nching (sce page 58) Is critical.

the p3r1ley IS not :an illue,

as Is shocldng. or chilling. the 1001,,(& in ice water to stop the cookmg-

We. use infused olla bec<lullc they "rc \'IIUlllly exciting And llC"CAUIiC tllcy

all tholc things thaI are fundamenlal lo cooking a green vegetable are

IIdd A ne:"" dlmen,non to the: nil\'Or of the herb, lip Icc. or \'cgc.l"lJlc Hadf,

similarly important to makmg an herb-infused 011 . h's prefera.ble to

For mltance, I c:an 8en'c :. pilnley .Alild and Il JlArtlcy 011 on tha 8nme Jllntc

use herb oils nght away. though they C3n be refngented. Spice all,.

without being repetitive III texture

A.. '\ Ilh grc('n \ cgctahlcs:. It III cruCial th:u the water mount:un a constant

remove lilt' IItO I'JlC"f to :1110W Kome air III, (You IIllly see tllc:uU rlllt' from

boil ",hen you blanch the herhs. TIle more wau:r you USc, the morc likely

the opcl1Ingl fdctlon la c3uKing tli(' Jlur t' 10 heat up,) Check the 011

it is that the w3tcrwm maint;un liS heal.

occnslon:llly I t "'Ill bccomc IIhKh l ty "':trm. hut I I ahoultt lIot gt't too hOi.

Bnng a largc pot O( S3hcd wiltcr to a boll. UKC

or there will lJe .omt· 1088 of color If At nny 1'0ll1t III the recipe, the

about 1/. cup of kosher salt for every quart of water. Place the herhs In :l

J1l:acllllle or 1I1 I )l: l lI r(' ovcrhrntll, IIto ll lht' 111I1I:: 11I1IC", relllove' Iht horll

FOR

ALL

HERB

OILS

strainer and dip them Into the water for the allotted lime, keeping the

pur�e, arlll rdrigeralc uI1111 cool Clean IIi(' mnchine, fe'lUrn the cooled

water 3t a strong bOIl. I\cmove the stramer and Immediately plunge the

puree to II, Ami conllllU(' 10 hlt'lld. Aeltl half uf the rt'1I13irllng lIerhs to lin: IIlncillllC a nt l "lcUlI for

blanched herbs mto an ICC water bath to chfll. Drain the cold herbs and squceze as dry 3S posslblc. Use SCI580rs 10

anOilier 2 IIII11UIt'Il, Ilirn atld lIlt' reJllnilllllK hcrhs lUlil hlellli for 2 1II0re

cut them InlO small pieces (chopping some herbs c3useslhem to oXH.ll7e

mlllutt'8 "(,100\'t" the purf(' to a ('onuunrr :lIlc.l n-fnKeratc fur a1 If'Al n II

and darken).

dllY to IIltt'llIi1fy the ('olon lhe pllr�t' call IIr Htort'tl for up to I week. Ollce

Place half the herbs In a blender with enough of thc speCified 011 JUSI to cover. (All of Ihesc recipes except the h3611 Oil, �llIch uses ol!\'c oil,

81raml:'d, Ihe 011 "'llI lIorlJl3l1y discolor in

tI"y", It ('an In' fro/c'u for

8<:\'crJl �t'd:Ij:, hO"'t'vrr, wllh IIIl11lrnal loKii of color !lnd navor

call for c3noia all. Depending on the ehsh you �11I he )lrrparlng.

1)lac,' 11 IHrcc' of cht'('sc'rIOlh nvcr a ceull.liner :",cl lI(cure wllh a

however. you may want to usc 01 1 \( 011 for some of the otherli, titlch as the

mhherhalld or "trlng_ Place th{' IHlr�(' on the: dU't'KrclOlh arlil ict the 011

Meli lterra nt' an CIUihcs,)

flit.'r through for :ahout nn hOllr I>lIlc;ml lhl' ch('f'sl'c1oth mill remaining

Turn on the blend r to medium 8)1c(.'d and 01110'" tht' herlJli to blrluJ for a

purrc tlon't wring out Iht' chres,·clolh, or YOIl fIIay dUlul 111f' (HI.

rosemary or thyme other herbs that \'fork In

minute 10 hegln the: proccsH, If Iht, hrrhlJ :aren't t urnlilK frc,·ly. add

Ot' I.rnehngon tllr 311lountyuu arr making, a"el the Kilt' of IIII' cnnllullt'r,

slightly more 011 fiO that Ihey '" I I I Turn tht' Kllc('d 10 hlKh Drut CUI1IlJlUt' IU

YOIi lI1ay lIl'ed 10 tlo till" 11\ halchf'll, Ston' t)1C' UlI III t)lI.' rcfngc'rittor (M

2 UHnute's. If lour hh'nder has a hole 3t llit" lOp,

frc'('/(' 11) f1l1t II 11110 n Iinlall l.IA"lIc tHIUl'C'/t' hcml(' ror W'rnlstulig tll"heft,

blend for anOlht'r

fhh

16S

PARSLEY OIL

ROS£MARY OIL I cup (01Cmory IcovC'S

4 cups Italian porllry sprigs

2 WPJ Iiolion porlJcy sprios

About 'I" cup conoCo oil

Aboot I wp conolo all

BLANCHING

8 L A t� C U I H G

TIM[

TlM(

J 5 aeconda

H08cm:uy. 30 Iccond'l lhen ..dd thc parsley and

continue fo III.1nch ror anolher 10 second. BASIL OIL FfNNfL OIL

3 pocked cups basil leoves

Abou1 l/" cup olNe oil 2 (uPS fennol f,onds

BLANCHING TIM(

J 5 Bcconds

2 (uPS italian pauley 'pOos

,. A U S " l O U T

'I)

CU'

"" A . U S A I O U T

' 13

CUP

About J/" (UP conolo ofl BLAUCUIUG

TIM(

HOlh Ihe fennel fronds ..ltd I'3I"8Jc:y. 1 0 10 15

M I N T

O I L

tu!ctUlllK

4 pocked cups mint IMVes About l/" cup conOOJ oil C U I V E

BLANCHING TIME

O I L

J 5 sccondB

I podtcd cup chlvos cui Inlo '.Inch pieces About I (UP conolo all n L M� C U "� G T l M f

wit'e'r

THYME Nom ' , place the chive. III ,.

8.r.1 Incr; uHi

OIL

nm hot

uvcr Ih"l11 ror nhollt 2 IIIlnlltt:K to Hoften ami remove the

If" cup thymc IcovC1 and tcndcr stems

3 cups hollon parsley sprfgs

(Ohlurophyll tlUue

,.10 1( 1 )

"lOUT

'/]

CU'

Aboul VA cup conolo oil BLANCHING

TIM[

'nlymc. 3 0 8cconds; then add the: parsley and

continue to blanch (or anolher 10 scconds "" " U S A I O U T

'h c U P

C U R RY O i l

CARROT OIL

II, cup curry powder

1 cup callot juke (hom about 1 V, pouro<h couo,,'

3 tablespoons coriander �

3 tablespoons conola 011

One Vl- to J/,·lnch,long plcce cinnamon stick

3 tablespoons moce

Vegetahle 01111 are c;uuly m;ute by colllblnlng3ny r('lillertl \'rgrt3ble Juire

1 V, leaspoons cayenne

wllh 3n ('(Ill:'! poruon of Oil ,

1 cup canolo oil

Heduee Ihe rurOI JUIce III " 11111311 g.,uccp;m to 3 t3h!rliJlonulI, Slr,.ln

Toast the curry powdtr :md cOfl:mder IIcetl in separale slnall P:Ultl.

Ihrough 3 8111:11 1 clunolM (gee' 1'3Hr 73) or fille lIIt'it" ittraill('r nlHl piner I n

hC:llingjust unlil you get an aroma, Hemm'c rrom the heat. comhlne wllh

.1 J1111l1- hlelltl(.'r w i t h I h e 0 1 1 . iUelll' for " lI11nut('

the cinnamon slick. mace. and cayenne l i l a coffee grinder. and K"fllld 10

emullilry, Tralltlrer to a dlll:tll ('01113111('( and ilion' in Iht'

a powder. Hcmo\'c to :l small bowl and stir In some or the 011 to moisten

to {'omllllle 31111

r('fn({cr.lIor,

"' ''' ' ' 1 •• o u t II) c u P

thc spices, Placc the SIHCCS 111 the hlender with the rcmallllng all ami blend, Pour into a ('ontaillcr and let sit for a day,

CORAL Oil

Sirain lhc oil through cheesecloth- lined fine- mcsll lllt\'C and store in an airtight containcr al room temper:I1ure ,

3 toblC1pooni loinler COI'ol (roa) M "' k, I S

", . a u t 112 c U P

liz cup conota 011, IlCOled Coral 011 t':1II lit' lIIalic \\ llh

frt'lih loh"tt"r rUt'. o r Ih(' ro" call

II"

a{'Clllllllbled twa .. pt' nod 0(1 11111' ralltl hpl fro/rll unlll )'1111 have rl lollj.th to mala' l lIt' 011 I'lal'(' the lotllilt'r ('oral III n IIlellllt'r alld hl('lul rur 20 HI :W KC'('ClIltht, or UlIllI IIIIIOOlh Wllh Ihe lIIarlullt" nllllllll).; 011 10\\ " 1,(,(,,1, ,Irli/lt' In tilt' hUI

011 Irwrt"abl' ln IlIl{h "'II(,(,tl ,tllIl COIIII IIIII' 10 bl" 11i1 fnr 15 to 20 IIIl l1ut('". Iil0JlJlIIIH 10 K('(.l l w do" 11 1111" Kllirtl OI'{'.IMllillally. Till' uil will COIlI! tIllI' hl'31 lit tht' b1(,lul,'r

rWIII fn('11(I1I ,11111 " Il l t.lkr on

Itt

is (('d ur,ll1Hl' " Cllnr

(till' ('Ural \\ 111 (I·11I3111 1I:1r1.. ) , ,.11t' IO IlH,'r )011 nlll llll' hJ r,,,tll'r, lilt' 1111)(('

,'olor Ihl' 1111 \\111 1;11.." Oil, hUI ill' ('an'rul lillt to CI:IIIHII{I' IIII' hh'IHI,'r hy h\t'rhr,IIIIIH II

Slr;lIn lht' lui liy IHHlrJlIH Il lhfflllJ.;h a ch" I',!C'dlHh l!twlt filII' IIII'Mh bll'\f' lutua COlll;1I I1,'r, (;o\l'r Iht, cui allll liW(I' 1 1 111 1111' rdnw'r;atllr, M ", o 1 1

----- , .

-�

1Iff "" - ---- � �---

... . a u t II,

Ih C U P

110

Th ill F , ,, n c h l O IH' l d , ., C o M . b o o �

The

I m portance

o f Tr u s s i n g

Chicken

Not long after I left Roland Henin's kitchen, I was hired to open a new restaurant in West Palm Beach called the Cobbley Nob. It was my first real executive chef position. I cooked classical French food. I W38 \'cry proud that I h3d 3 repertoire of fifteen different cla"l�l pol.1l0

didn't know ho"".

prcp:lralions. I cooked c"'c�1hing m clarified butter. I cooked lobster

TIlankSbrJ\'ll1g I h3d no ulea wh:n I Will doing. Pierre w!ltcht'd me,

Bohemian-lobster with cream and paprib-which \\'38 straight oul of

couldn't underal3nd. Ite .Iuted acre:unmg at me. lIow cO\lhl llomeone

Femand Point's book.

M.'! C.lstrollomic.

But the Cobble)' Nob. which was

fumbled around.

tied Ihe It'gtt together. like at

who'd been a chef 1 Will t", elHy· four al this POI1\1\ in I�riln('e jl ('oak

near the jai 3131 courts. died .. qUick dc.uh, Jnd t learned that the quallt)' of

learns 10 trual 3 chicken bdore he', oM enough to dnv

the food docs not necessarily determine the success of .. rcsI3ur;ml.

d:mn

Fortun.llely. J found another Job not faT from there 3t 3 restaurant called Cafe du PaTe In

orth P:llm BC3Ch. where the most Important

thing [ learned was how to truss 3 chicken.

lie

how could

to be 3 chef of :anything. and lIot kno"" how to truaR ('hleken?

lie

became lo en�ged he thre",' the kmfe al me. I don't think he .....:u uiming for my hean, but Ihe klUfe came eloISe enough What that taught me-that chicken. the luring. the whilllllng knife

Is lcarning to truss 3 chicken that important? I W38 almost luabbed

bl:lde-""al that if I \\.11 going to be a ('h('f aomrwhu(', I'd bettt'f be

because I didn' t know. The chef, Pierre, was payms me five or SIX dollars

prepared to teach people ('\'cI')1hing they neetled to know to nlll that

an hour, It was just 111m and me, settlllS ready to open the restaurant for

lratchen. I no longer took it for granted that I knt'w c\·el')'lhll11.;. I needed

the 6eason, Again, a classical French chef. And there I Wal, 1I11s

to really, really ltudy ;lIld learn :\11 thOle thing-IS, ho\\' 10 Inllil a chicken ,

American kid who thought of hllnself as a chef. I'd been 3 chef. I 'd

how 10 tie a Ilipkn01. I klle\\' then I coultln't l'all m)'aelf a chef IUlSt

gotten good revie....s . at the Cobbley Nob.

bcc.au5e I r.an 3 kllchen. I n the end, of ('ourlle. Ille Imporlance of tnlllsing

Pierre told me to tmss the cllIckens. I wasn't going 10 tell him I

TRUSSING AND

:1 chicken mea lit far more than aCHlally '"'tllli ng:t chicken.

ROASTING CH ICK(N

Posuion Ihe chicken 60 that lis Ca\'II)' facel )'ou.

Mau1tallllng tenllon on the fitnng, turn the

Place the ce'Her of a 2- fool - Iong pIece of

chicken on liS Side. \\ uHl the ends of the IStTlIIg:

butcher's stnng benealh 'he chlcken· 8 t:ul. the

over Ihe neck. aud lie securely

lutle tnangle al lhe haltom of the ca\fny. Lift

I cook the legIS, the JIloilllt'r the hrt':II1i1 �'i11 he. E\'en 3 Jlt'rfecily roadtecl chicken will Ine\,II:1hly rrlult In a breast thill ' " n lhtle It'''"

TrulslllK a elucken thllS \\ay \\111 help II

malin than Ollt )Oll \\oultl cook "cparntely.

I alw3Y" W;"IIl I it "auce with rOllin

the 8tnng up outSide cach leg and Dull II dO\\J1

cook more e\·('nly. al II shoultl prolect the

between the legs. rC\'er8Ing tht' dll(,(,lIon of

IJuunest P3ft of the hre:uil, the pan that

each end 10 thai the) crOSI, I'll:! II" blnng o\'er

likely 10 o\'rr('ook dUring TO:l8l1ng I like 10

the 1):111 :11111 rnrnmell1n \\hlle wailing Il lhe

Ihe Ihlghs (tllc drumsticks should sqlleeze

rO:UiI a chlCke n .1 1 a lugh lemperature', ht' t\\ct'n

\'cry bell' tlUblSlMICC for fl:l\'oring n ('hlckell

togelher at II1IS POInt) and tilt' \\Ings.

4250 and

·150°f'"

III

\\'hlch III \\'hy most

bt'C3U6t' I \ e founcl the f;uilC'r

durken 111t' IIklll lhnt Itlck. to Iht' hOllom of

s:auce or JUll

I l o u l n d o or Po J d n D u o ', UrcuHL w i t h C,'cll,ncd Sweet \V h l t c Corn n n d MOl'cl M u s h r'ooJn Snllce

ROULADE OF DUCK I whoIo

'I, cup 'Quick' Duck Souce (page 228), wormed

CREAMED CORN

t.. dud< I><oo.t (about 1 2 ou""",) bonele

(Uberty Volley 0< Pokln)

5 Iorgo eon COfn, 5hudted

I teo,poon finely minced Ihollot

4 112 tobhnpoon$ (21/.. ounces) unsolted buttet

1 teaspoon finely minced chives 1 tecnpoon finety minced italian parsley

Kmhctr oolt and IrMhly oround block pepper

Kmher JOI. and IrMhly ground block pepper

A low all.pi<e berriot

M O R E L M U S H R OOM S A U C E

2 Ioroo out., loa_ IOVOy cobbogo or 2 Ioroo

oil

IGOY.. Swl.. chord (with no .pI'" 0< toon)

hh ' dish

ounus motel" proferobly Oregon

, .able>poon 8runol.., (pogo 1551 Kosher salt and freshly ground block pepper

3 table>poon. ( " t, ou""",) unJOlted butter

Iff inlercsting to me from a mechanical siandpoini.

end toward the bottom. Carefully cut the large rib from Ihe IC3f.

I nceded to figure OUI how to cook and serve duck in a W3Y 1l13t was

11011 . duck bre.s, lengthwise to rorm . cyl inder. PI.ce the cylinder

didn't wal1l

of duck in the center of thc widest pan of the cabhage Ica(. Tri m the Icaf

.ult.hle to the .tyle .nd I'0rtlon .Ile orthe French '-.:Iundry. 1

to rmun the duck hre,ut whole 3nd then cut It, hecause it lends to bleed

80 Ih:1I it i8 rhe length of the breast and so that the leaf will easily wrap

out-all its juice. go right mto Ihe "uuce th.:u hall hccn painstakingly

around the roulade once.

deWca"cd and reduced 'lIId hrought 10 perfection. I tried making 3

Roll up the duck hre3s1 in the le3r. PJace the roulade in the center

h didn't have thc exactness I w3nted. So

of the bottom of the Ic nbrth o( plastic wrap. Roll up the roul3dc in the

ragout of duck hrealll, hUI

I decided to try cooking It I n . hag wrapJllllg the hrca" In • hl.nched

p13811e, holding it in the center and rolling as tightly a8 possible.

lear or ••voy c.lohage or Swl •• chord .nd roiling It up tightly In pl.stlc

J l oMing the roul3dc, twist one end of the plastic wrap scveral

111(: corn gami'!h 1 8 logiC.l1 hecause

time8 against the duck. This w,lI sccure the shape of the roulade.

wra . 11'8 preciAc and callY to cook,

duck" nre corn .. fcd, Awl thc morcls .:Ire very canhy, you can 31moSI

Hepcat on the other side, twisting in the opposite direction. You

neVtr go wrong iHldinK lIluKhroOfflH 10 anything.

should h.vc 0 perrectly sh.pcd cylinder. Bring hoth ends of the wr.p over 10 the ccnlcr o( the roulade and tic them in 3 knot pulled just tight

nemovc anddlsc.ud thc akln rrol11 the

enough to rest against the roulade. Hepe3t with the remaining hreast

duck hrctll il and cui it In hair. Itcmove the Icnderlolll (rom Ihe undcndde

:md leaf and place the p3ckcts in thc refrigerator. You can rcfnger.1te

F O R r U E A O U L A O [ Of D U C K

or each hrc,uu (r('llerve It for nnOlitcr U8f') anci lrim away nny mcmllrOUics.

them (or several hours heforc cooking.

veinM, and cnrtllaKc. Trim the ends of the mcal to (orm it reclanb'lIlar

FOR T H E C R [ A M E D CO R N

flhnpC'", Sprinkle the undenhlc of rOlch hrealll with "alt and pepper 3ud

them through a juicer. Or. place them 10 a blender with a little water

grind 5 to (, ,,,"nil "liven of alltlplce over c3ch piece Cn lumd ·crank chccse

(jUlIl enough 10 allow it to blend) and purc'!e: remove the purc'!e and all the

grater work" well for thill If you clon't hovt':m allspice water). Bring n pot of Mlted walrr to n 1.011. A.M the c.,hh"ge or SWi"B ch:lftl leavell and holl gently (or :1 to " mirHllcH. or unul lrndc::r, CCIHly rCIJIO\'c thc Icav..." to an iCC-WlUf'r h:l1h 10 chill, Ihcli tr.&ndcr 10 p:1J1cr lowdN 10 dry, TCRr or( n piece of plnHllc wrap tllIou.

172

20 IlIchc" 10nK ilnd lay I t

CUI Ihc kcrncls from

3 ear8 of corn. Hun

liqUid to 3 clunois (sce page 73) licl over " cont3lOer. Allow all the corn Juice to dr.1In. prcslling lightly on the corn hut not (arcing the puree through the str3Ulcr. You should have ahout liz cup of corn jUice. Cut the kerncls from the remaining 2 cars o( corn. OIancil thc corn in lightly sillte,1 hOlllng water for 3bout I minute. skimming of( any

horizontally acro,," a work "urfnce. Place n lenf of cahhage or chard on

Impunlles thnt noat to the lIurface. Drain Ihc corn and cool In cold

n clltling hoarel, with Ihe In81dc o f Ihe Irnf (:lelng uJlwurd "l1Il llae core

walen then dr3in 3b"3ln 3nd dry the kcrnels on p3Jlcr towels.

Th. F , e n c h L a u n d , y Cookbook

FOR

TH[

M O R E L S Trim the stems from the morels. Soak the

Ihe morcls and heal th rough. JU8t before "erving. :\lld the 8hnllols.

mushrooms in .....arm water (If vegetables th:lI need to be soaked arc

dm'ts. ('3raley. and brunolsc ,lfHI cook for

going to he cookcd. use ..... arm .....ater, 018 II looscns tJin more eaSily

from the hcat :1I1t] lil'llrl

than cold). changing the ..... ater

Station to laSle ..... lIh 1311 ami peppper.

'.....0

or three times, If the mushrooms

are small. they can be cooked ..... hole. Larger morels should he cut into uniform pieces. TO C O M P L E T [

fe..... second", Hemo'o'e

tht remairunK 2 tahlc8poonl of hutter.

In 3 he.:",y snucepan . ..... hisk Ihe corn Juice oyer medium heal unlll it tlllckenli. mle slarch present I n the corn-corruuarch w11l CAllie

Jlcat a large 8aucepa n o f �'aterlo I ?oo f. Place the cold

It to thicken 'llIlckly.) Do not allow 11 to hOII. or 11 may curdle. Once it

. adjusting the heat to maint�lIn the ....aler . duck roulades in the ....ater.

tlllckens. turn dO�'n tilt: laral "'1I1 ."..h lllk in the hutter. Allll ihe hlancheti

h:mperature. Poach the duck for 6 to 7 mmutes for medium- rare. or

corn kernel" and fica'on �'lIh IIlIh and pepper.

7 to 8 mmutes for medium. Remove the duck and allow It to rest for 2 to 3 minutes before sllcmg.

With the roulade. still wrapprd. cut off an enll of each. using

8errated knife. Cerlll)' rush the roulnde Oul of the wrap, Slice each

WillIe the duck cooks. make the morel mushroom lIaucel Melt

rouilltle IOtO three e(l uai 8Cclionli.

a medium skillet o'o'er medium heat.

Plllce a lSpoonful of the remaining duck Ilauce In Ihe center of ellch of

Shake any exccss .....3ler from the mushrooms. add to the hot butler.

81X plnlca. Top the liauce With Ihe creamed corn. Stnntl the pltcCII of duck

and 83UI(: until the liquid h:ls e'o'apor:lted and the mushroo,ms are

roubdt on the corn and KUrnl8h the top of tach with n spoonful of morel•.

tender. If the liqUid cV:lpOr:lleS before the mushrooms 3re cooked. JU8t

... ... c u 6 ' . . ... U H ;; '

1 tablespoon of the butler

:ldd a tahlespoon of ..... 3ter to the pan. Add 1/, cup of the duck liauce to

POII.UonMlcd D.'cnwt of S " u o h

wJlh SWhfH

Cluu'd . Snull-cd Duel( Fore G r n H .

u n d OV('u'J)l'Icd D l nel(

F'J�H

1 ,«Ipo "Qukk" Squob Sq"". (pog. 229),

SOUA'

SWISS CHARD

3 squob (... Sou''"',

I pound Swfn cho/d (yellow, green. 0( red),

pogo

3 1 5)

modo wilh the reserved squab legs

ond carcasses (from above)

womed ond drled on poper toweli

Canolo 011 KMhctr 5011 ond "�Jy ground block pepper

I tablespoon unwlted buHCf

2 toblespoons B(tUffQ Monte (pooo 135)

KoWf' lOlt

OYE N . D R I E D F I G S

12 ounces fresh moulard duck fole gros,

cut InlO l/4·1nc.h cubes

I/, cup 8eurre Monte (poge 1 35)

Kosher salt

6 ripe Block MinIon figs, or best quality ovolloble,

Squob Spice (pog. 233) 2 toblespoons minced chives

each cut Inlo 6 wedOOi Powdered sugar for du,"ng

" Utlh 18 dimeu!! 10 cook In th.1t YOIl h.ave 10 hit the lernper:uure

Mell the remaining I leaspoon hUller in 2 tablespoons watcr in a

exactly right. II HhouM he tiervcd medium-fare. When ii's r.are, ii 's

second large skillel ovcr medium heat. Add the chilrd siems. season with

lough ilm) dlfflcuh 10 erll. When It liMns 10 get o\'cr medium r.are. lhe

sail. OIod cook. slirring. ror I 102 mlnules. or until lcnder. Drain. TO C O M P L E T E H ea t lilt. inch of canula 011 111 a large 8:lUt� pan over

mcul firKins 10 wkc 011 n lIv�ry navor, We oven-tlry Ihe fig" lef' over froll1 summer's hounly-ihey'll keep

medium-llIgh heat. Season the sqllah hreasl8 wilh Sillt and pepper and

week Blld Herve Ilu'lIl In thld fall elilih. Wr usc 3 beauliful yellow Swl"" charel, .. variety you muy he OIhle 10 find al rOlrme",' markel".

place skin side down m lhe hal oil. Cook for about 3 millules. or unril lhe

Jlemo\'e each hrc31i, lialf (rom Ihe IU u:!h coarc.1SSCH, l ICBving Ihe wlngK nllilched 10 lite hn'tUilli. CUI off Ihe Ilpli of Ihe wings.

"an and add Ihe heurre lI1onl�. Continue 10 cook and ba81e the squab (or

ahOUI 2 mor(' fIllllulcs. or unltl lhe meat 18 medium-rare. Herno\'e Ihe

II!ZlviflK ollly Ihr Il'lrgcr 1111110111 wing hOIiCl AII;aclu'd 10 Ihc hreaSI". Wllh

Jlan (rom lhe he.lt and allow the 8quab to rest ror 5 minutes.

for n

skin is .. rich brown. Turn the meal O\'cr and cook for an addlllOnal 2 mlnules. hasllnglhc meal wllh thcoil l n Ihe pan. Dralll off lhe fat in Ihe

FOR

Tit ( SO UII tI

n JlllfIng knife, IiCfrlJW Ihl' lIIe,'1I awl'ly frolll ihe "",luK hUIIt' 10 "frcnch" il.

Meanwlllic. comhll1e Ihe chard leaves and Ihe figs wilh the hcurrc

Cover And rcfrl",rrnle Ihe hr�""IIi. U"c IIU' leg" anti COIrr31ilieli i0 make Ihe

mOlllc i n a saucepan and ildd a splash or water. neheal over mcdium-Iow

litjunh HAuce,

heat. JUlit hefore sCn'lJIg. sllr In the chard slelns.

rOR

TlI[

OVU. DAttO

rtGS

" rdlcDI Ihe ovc'n 10 :J50o r. LU1e a

Ileal a large sklllt'l over lIIedium l ugh heal. Season the cubcs or foie

dU1I1 (mli.lg II IUlgar "hakrr ur II .unall "lraill!!r) Ihe fig" Wllh p(J\'!clered IIIIHllr, Plncl' llI llw OVl'I! a 1111 hake for:W mllluet'H. or 1111111 dried 1I111 1u.1I

Kras With "alt. WhCll lhc Imll III very hot. add the foie gr.18 and hrown Ihe JlIeccli 011 all sules. TIuli lihould only takc ahoul I to l lh minutes. Don',

HUpl'lc·. Thr flW" c'nn he k('llI n·frlKernle·d In all :.Irll,.;hl conlilirll'r ror III '

ovc:rl'OOk; lhe pieccH wtll conlinue 10 cook wlten lhey 3rc removed from

to I week.

the heat.

F O k T l I [ S W I S S C II A R D

CUlnrf,llI'lilalkA, IHlII AwnyancJ clllico1fd any IIlrIIlK'" nlHI cUl lhr lunlk" oll lhc cliagolllli inln III. inch J"llenlle. C\lI IIH�

Slice Ihe 'iCllIa!; hrc;uil8 crOSIiWISC all

sltghl dlilgonal. Spoon some

rCIlVC" lulU 2 Ilirh ph·erN. You hili han' lIl'prOxilllllldy (, 10 7 CliP" of

fHluab sauce 11110 IIII' middle of eJch scrving plait·. Top each wilh a ponlon of the chard and (ole gras, O\'crlil l) Ihc tll.cc8 of liquah o\'cr Ihe chard.

I rlmllled IC'a\'l'H allli Hlalk",

Sprinkle Willt

Me·1I 2 1t':I"1'1101l11 of Ihe 11II1I('r in " large' likillt'l m'l'r lIleCIiUIIl h('ill. Acld lllC' chnrcl lc'a\'e'H, IIprlllkll' willi IIIIIt (It I" IlIIlmrlalil ln ":IIt !l1(' 1":1\'('" "dorco IItry wile fnrr\'l'lI l1c·aHonlllg). ;11111 cook for I 102 IIIlIml('". orulIlIl llil' lenv('" will. Drain Clll pn l ll'r lowel". 174

Hewarlll ihe 811 uall galice,

IlIIklllK "hc'l'1 \'dlh I 'arrlUllrlll. PlnCI' IIIt' fig piece·" oll lhe pnllallll llghrly

Th ..

Fr .. nch La u n d r y Coo�hoo�

elm'('".

Itglll dUliling or 1i(I "ilh sIIICC. Ihell 8f1rlllkle Wlllt thc

Roolled Gulneo F o....' e n Cr,plnerte d e Brold/, pogo 1 78

176

rt , . F , e n c h l a u n d , y Cookbook

III YOII. nlll I l wy' " "

TIII'y' ,,,, ,ltU""

flucI 1111\1'

I " ,"h'"

II CIl'IIPI'"

1 ' 1)\\1'\'" " , IIrl' " IIH'"

h" C'IIII""

IU\,,'ly t u cook,

I h l 'Y" -"

th" "

{'I. It-I,,'"

tllI\IU" 'I' hl' "'U".

u,' h'"" ,,,.,,",""

nllllll"'l "" I I " I'ly

', h o I

177

aYAlD.

I to I '12 cups thlnty sliced zucchini rounds

'I. cup conoto 011

I to 1 '12 cuJ» thinly "ked Joponcw eggplant

1 cup sliced onJon\ (halved and GUt Inlo I. to I rho

,cd bell pepper, COfcd, $Ceded, and cut Inlo

6 """II tomatoes ( I 2 ouncc» . pecled ond t"I"IV "Iud

'/A·lnch julienne

I yellow bell popper, co,ed, seeded, and cul lnlo 'IA,Inch jullenno

1f2 cup corrols cui infO Ih-Inch mlrepoht (se. pogo 203)

'I. tco,poon mlnud Ihyme

'/J cup shollolS cuf InlO Ih-Inch mlrepolx

0.,. 2'h·pound gul_ lowl

1 cup onion, cut Inlo 11l·lnch mlrcpolx

'1.,lnch jullonoo

Herb �chcl

(see pog. 203)

2 �f}fIO' thyme, 2 Spr10\ r)(mlcy, ond

I boy It.'Of, 'Icd 1000C1hcr In 0 cheesecloth

I 10'00 meet coul (ai,

bundle

soaked overnight

In cold WOlel In the refrigeralor Kmhcr $011 and freshly oround block pepper

Ko,hcr .011 ond ('lJ1hly OtOund block pepper

yaleli

(see pogo 203) I cup leeks cui Inlo 11l·lnch mlrepolx (se. pogo 203)

I toblespoon extro virgin olive all

"'nolo oil

n rc'f'Ilc'cl ilW'rprC'lilliOIi "f r:u;I!tIUlllc, Tht' vcgC:lahlc8

F O R T H ( 8 '1 A L 0 I

Pre heal t h e o\'cn to 275°f,

furrllllilly dic'c'cl ff,r tI rtlltltnuillc' t'ggplnnl, lurchill,. yellow HCI U31111,

IIcat thc 011 in a largc likillci ovc r medium hcat. Add the onions,

lItl'W of OmOIiN and pe:ppe:rs.

pt'ppcrs. and herb sache:t, gcmton wilh salt and peppcr. and cook for

lornnlu Mc' H!r('Cel nwl Ittyc'rt'd nver

hru8h,'d willi (,II\'(, nil. HC'.1IifllH'tI '" ,III linlt. (ll'Pl't'r. nnel thyme, ,HId

1 5 IJllnules. or until Iht' vegelablt'8 are softened bUI IIOt browned.

Imhfl. TIll' f/)",'1 11i C'flC'luwd In Ihl" ProVf'lIc;nl V('gt'talll,' comhinnlioll :nul

1tt'IlIO\'C the s:lchcl ane! spread tile r111xlurc In an evcn laycr in a

wfOC PlwIJ in c'alll f!lf Itt !lInk,. fn,gr.IIII. Hc-If lIaHllfIg package'li, (J fyoll h,we!

12 Inch ovcn proof skillct or round baklugtlish.

,lI fflC'lIlIy fllullfll{f'nlll fal, clon' l !t·t lhar IilOp you froUl lrylllK 111I1i dhdl, If ullly It) IntUc' Ihlli i I" III ' IIII," " " J.;c'wblL' prrp:lrillwn.)

Arrangc thl' slaced vegetablcs O Vl' r Ihe: oJllons and peppers . hcglllmng at the outSide or the pan and wo rk lll g toward the eenler,

Uynl,IJ HI"''' "" ,II wllh fllOKI IIIc'ill" anti Kt,;.fuotl. II'" ulI l 'onnnl to IIIiC

al t crnallllg :rrl1l ove rlapping them (scc t he photo ·r,')lh on page 1 7 7) .

Ii(" a IIIn ndoh nt' to

M,x the g: uh c, 011. thyme, 31111 salt :llId pepper to t3ste and sprlnklc

C'III IIIt' IIi 1 1 1 10 very ,h"I Klirl'Ii, aholll filiI' HIXlt'c'nlh ',f all l I le h If pOII",IIIt'.

vcgewhlc8, Covcr "dtlt alUlllIllUm roil. cri mp i ng the C'c!gc8 to scal, o r ""lllI a tlghl filling lui Jml hake for 2'11 hours,

vI'W'wlll" " Ilral 1t1l\'C' 'IJlJlmXulltllf'ly III(' "rUIiC drnlllCt,'r.

IIHlk,. IIU' "YId,I, till' clily I",fnn' Hl'rvrng li lt; nllllw tile nnvonl lo dt'vdoJl,

1 I,lv" lilt' huu'lU'r tul 1IJ1 1 11f' glll lU'a fo.... l. I f you p,,'f,'n aKk h un ""WIVC'

ovcr th e

HClIlo\'c the lad alld check thc ,'cgcfahlc8 {the eggplant will lake t hc

IIII' """C'" "" YUlI l'jlJl lIKt' tlll'lIl for lilt, Hauct', 1)0ll't o\'('rcook Ih('

longetll to ('ook), 'nlcy should have softened 3nc! be al most cooked,

binI. The hrClHihi UII,l lhi,.;hK Khould 111'.1 lillie I'lIIk i n t hl' cc'nlc'r.

178

fat removed and chopped 1nlo 1 .lnch pieces 2';' cups waler 2'h cups C"Icken Stock (pog. 226)

I 'COlpoon chopped gorllc 2 ICO\poon\ olive 011

I oreetn bell peppe', cored, seeded, and cut Into

1 cup conolo 011 Reserved corcO\\ and trimmings of the fowl,

I to I '12 cups thinly sliced ycllow �uo,h rounds

Inch·IOflO "I",,) I

IOUndS

SAU CE

T h o r,oflch

Laundry Coo�boo�

Ht'ttlrn 10 thc O\'CII, ullcovered, and cook for an adclrllOn:11 30 mmuteS,

or until VCI)' t end er. The byaltll can bc scn'cd Immcdllucly or. olS (or tillS recipe. cooled to room tcm lu:r:l.lurc and thcn rC£nge-"'ted ulIlIl fC3dy to usc. preferably for:.. day Of H, 0, FOR T H [ G U I N E A FOWL

Utnng a bonulg k lll(e. rell1o\'c: thc: brcast lli

two pieces, Remove and discard the skin :lIId trim the edges of thc me31. raid each breast cross.... lsc III half so Ih:1t the mlrrow end o( thc brcasl .1Iltl lhc wldc end meet. CUI a sh3110w sial ...cross Ihe width of the fold. This will ensure even cooking of the breast.

Ihen st",in t h rough :& dunoitl (8C(, Jlage 73) inlO a "mall M:tuce lHuh

ou shoulll 11:1\'(' ahoul 2 10 2 1h cup" of 1111'"tl. Do 111)1 fOf(,(, Ihro\l�h :lny

80lhls or 1lIl\lItl lh:1I rrll1�UI1 I1\ Ihr clUIIO\". 1\('lUrn Iht" ""u('(' to Ihe tltt}\'c 31111 rCtIUl'C to 11& to ifl CU I" TO C O M P L ( T l

I'rt'lll::'31 tla(' O\'CI1 to 3S0oP,

I\(,JIlm'(' Ihr " aul fnl from liar \\alt'r n11t1 lIlol tlry nn I 'a l'rr 10\\(,1". (':lbon (,3ch I'I(,ft" o( hell '"" Ilh lUllt :llltl l)cpper. Co\'t�r t ilt' ('nlirt' In ll o( e3ch plC'ce of (0\, 1 .... 1111

n JlOMlOIl

o( lilt' b ,11th (bUlh 1:,) r"')t "rl thr

Cut offlhc legs and t lugh s and cUl tht' Il'b'S and Ilughs a pan , He8en'c

rr1U3111HI); hpllh .,,\!tk Pl3ft" 011(" 1)lC'c(' of h'lilltra fo.... 1 H'K('I:tblt· "hie

the legs :llltl c:trcass fo r the g.,ucr, ne Il10\'(' the skm (ro l11 the thl�h8 and

do,"" n on on(" rtig(' of IhC' caul fal. HolI lI up fi('curdy III the ,'aul f,lI. KI\'II1�

rold Ih(' ('cIK(''' of lla.. raul fill

du;carci; cut oul :tnd remove the hone. Tram any ullc\,cn edges :lIld fold

11 (1 cQuplr of turnll. :aml lrllU Iht' ('\('('11".

cach tlugh o\'er 11\10 lis oraglllai shape, Cl lhe b"UUH·... (0.... l a81(Ie.

untle-ruealh to forl1l a IIghl p3fl..a�t" 1\(· l'r:II .... llh Ih(" rt'lIInllltllj.; I "rc('"

FO R T H E S AU C [

I l eat the canola 011 o\'('r IlIgh I,,"al lll :l hea\) hrauung

pan large enough to hold the bon('s III ont' byer (The amount of 011 III

Ileat I:. IIlcla of 011 111 a 1u':I\ (He·" I .ruu( �llllt"l m rr IIII'clllllll lH'.u (hc'

c("flalU th:\l lhr 011 111 1101 O\rrl hul. or II '"" III m3�t" holt·" IlI lh(" ("Iul f,lI)

necessary for propel"" bro.... llIng of thc bones, The eXCeliS fat '"" III be

Place: the plfkets \ ('grl:lhh' liHIt' cl.,,",, n lil liit' 011 :11111 brn..... l1 l1l1tll lh,·) :trr

poured offl3ler,) Whcn the oII IS \'cr), hot. add III(.' choPIlI'd hOIlCK, J\llow

nlt"dy colured 011 Ih(' h01l1l1ll. ahoul

the bones 10 brown on the fi rst sule hefore YOll lurn Ihelll, ... hoUi 1 0

('3rdully turn l lat' I lIc'l'r" llld l'OIlIlIlUl' III {,lIok fnr 1I1lClUI 2 ilIOn' 1111 11\111'"

·1 IIIII1UI('/i lIKIIIJ.: " narrrm M I ',IIIIIII,

JnlflutCS, Turn them occasion:llly 1111111 I he), art' l'\'enly colorcd. ahOUI 20

10 hro.... n Ihl' t'1'('olul Klclt" (lirr IIII' phohl�ril ph UII paK" 1 77) , I'lncr Ih..

mmutes tOlal.

8�allel lll tilt' 0\('11 for :thout 1 5 mlllul('11 In cOlI\pll'I(' lht' l'uU�UlKI II(l 111l1

When the hones are well hrowlled, pour off the (al from thl' pan, Add I/: cup of Ihe wat r to the hOlies and tillr

\, Ilh

a .... ootl(·n bpoon or

spatul:l. scr;1pll1g lip the gla/e from Ihe b01lom of the 1'311. Continue to cook lllllll lh(' IJ'Iuul hab C\:tporJlt'ti :.. nd rt'gl:"71'd the 1 '311,

Add 112 cup of tlll' clHcken block 10 IlIl' p:1I1 and dt'gl:m:! 36 abO\e,

Coni lillie 10 cook unlll thc 11IIuld C\3poratl's 36 hefore Add IlIl' H'g" t:..bks to the hOIll's and bllr 'nit' rnOUHure from Iht,

vegcl:lhlc8

....

111 dq,;la/c lilt' pall

o\('rcool the fo,, 1 M t'all\\IIII('. rrhe-:lt Ihr rt'IiHuntnK II .. !tIl III tht' el\'('Il, Slir 1111' tlll\l' OII UlIO Ihc' !JJUCt' DI\ III(' Iht· \l'J.:fl;tIJl(·!J ..IIIUIlK four I llah'" CUI

c·.I('" I! lf{'(' uf 111'11 UII II

sllghl dl",�oIl31 IhroIlHh Ih,. ('('nlt'r Arr.llIg(' n PII'('c" uf \\hllt· lIu'al tHul ll , I 'I( CC.· of .l ar k JIIt'.ll on ('3ch portlUlI ufll);1lell 0(1111(' "UI1I(' �'1\1CC' mc're'at'h " A " t ' ..

U . ... " H . '

Conllnllt' (,oo�lOg anti stirring to

cvapor;1lc 1111' rnOHilUrc anti gl:t/c the \('gctablt'lI Add Ihe fl'JlIo\lIlIlIg 2 cups clllekt'u blOCk :t1H1 2 C l l pli .... atf·r to 11ll' p:1l1 Scrapt· Ihe gla/t. ;rom the hOltom of Ih,' pan :md iii III II Icr UIIIII III(' IUJlud 16 n'(juced by ahout one tlllrd 51r;1I11 Ihl' saUCt· th rough :1 colJndt'r lind

Meal

179

Salt

and

pepper

and

vinegar

'nit uhl l ity t o IUIII food properly i8 the single m081 impon;lOt skill In cooking. When new coob Klart at Ihlngli I l ry 10 convey. Sail

the reRI.1ur.:ant. tills Is one of the first

'" the prim:.,)' Kcalloning IngrcdicllI we usc. I t

hc lgh l CJlI1 the navor o f everything

acr088 the houd. n o matter what

you're doing eYen warne 8WI;el8, Wllhout

ytKclnIJltK AIlII fruits I"

a li t tle n31. dead.

h. the navor of mC.ll8 and

fade. 018 they 83y In France

I",lipld. 5:11t "pc nil up nayo rs , makcK them tiparkle.

HilI Urnu Inllic fUllt in u dish. it 's too ":li t),. Sull'" nol h.1ll (or YOU-IOO much

""II ill had for you. Processcd food

Cim co u l n lll f'no rmO IiIi tlUUnlilic8 of Hall. hUI if you cal fresh foods and you' re flclifioning It YOUrllC:lr. Ha l t intake JlhoulcJ nO( he .1 JlrolJlcm.

Tilt' luude Roll we ust: hcfare and d uri ng cooking Is kosher s.. lt. We UHe lI lIJlt:clnc hrnnd of kosher IUllt, Dlnrllond Cryst.1I, of tllr grnhl8. We gauge Ihe amount of lI"h wr're

beca u lic of the size

Ulung JJlainly hy touch,

nnd we've KOUen uHed to Iht feci of the Diamond Cry.uill lmlOd. Pepper, on l ite allier hand. Hhoultl be utied only in certain Co18CS for IIJlcclric

HuilcH. Pepper on meat I. n COl1l113 nl, hut pcp per on (Ish can be

ove rwhel m i ng 0 ' 11

t80

UHe white, If any),

T h . r , . n c h L a u n d , y CooldJoo�

Somettmes pepper makes " dcsserc: rn3nlCapOne Imrbet wllh a Tellicherry pepper syrup, for InSlance, so Ihat sweet. nch, and slut)' elemenls come together. Pepperon raspbernes 18 delicIous. (Tdllcherry.

but when ),ou bitc do", n on n cl)'Klai of I I 011 fOlc grad. for exomJlle. It's

01111:111 118 1I 1"SI rxplodu ", uh navor. TI)' tasllng thffert'lit saltil lO ululef'8t:uul their tl Hf(,l'enccs. 81nMIng

a common hlack peppercorn, IS slInllar to Ja\'a peppercorns. but II 'S a

with fleur de

little more aggress l\'e.)

for),olll'8t'lr.

White pepper IS Importanl loo. mainly 10 dlshcslhat need P('III,cr hut whose appe.,rancc would be compromised by specks of black pcpper.

I think people use pepper too much. It gets 111 I he wa),. Sail dlssoh'es and penetrates, PCJlper doesn· r.

sd ,:uHl sd ({fill, thf'n ko"h('r ,,:tit. aml l:un!)"

lohle Malt. Sf'(,

TIle other IInpOr1allt 1It'3S01\l1l(; 011(' thnt 1110111), tr ntl to o\crlook

hUlld n:I\'Olli ,", IIhoUl !!ecollling prollllnt'lit It"df, A lot of ourn 1o muaufr

li.3UCCS 6.3II('("S \\C lII:tke JUlit hdort' 8cn'IIIH tli("lt1 title vlllct;:tr.

After cooking, we usc two d lfferenl 8.,11" ali a textural. \'16I1al. and fla\'or· enhancing garmsh: fleur de sd, a flure. sl lghtl), sweet. while salt,

III

\, l Iu�lpr. You llon' t \\anl to tastc \'III("g;1J'1 hkt" Knit. It '" onl) Ih('f(' to hrl l l

Ihe lI\eat sauces h:w(' a

tlrop

Many of

or t'"'O of \'l IIeg;)r, VlIlegnr allo\'K ),011 10

reduce Iht' ;1I110Ullt of salt )'OU Ulit',

and sd 1,"115, or gray 8all . .....hich is 81111 mOllit and has a 101 more IIlIneral

White "'"Ie \,1Ilt'gnr IIf, III)' f:1\'I)(lll'. 1I('('alll'l:: II ","or"" wdl III lU81

fl,l\'ors to it. They' re h3f\'estcd hy hand along the coast,,1 regions of

"haul t'\('I)' S;IUCe:' You wOllltln ' , \\illlt lei ""(' a tih('rry or n hnh ullllic,

weslern Frallce. Fleur de sci Iii eXpenSl\'c , hut a lillie

hecau8e they hnvc ntl\ONi (If Ilu�lr 0"' 11 I like \'Itle/-:ar tu lllwr aimul n G

gOC 8 a long '"" 3)'. A little

percent a(,ldll), tW I c:m tlli('

It·"" of II

lhnll a \'I IIt'({ar Willi a

Iuwt'r ,ICllhl),

four- or SIX- Ollllce hag. for maybc ten do113rs. Will last a ycar. I t 's

;lIltl thcrcfurr Ihe fltl\Or ducsu' l lu:cnlllt· prl'\'::.II::1I1 Wlll'n thl' \'IIIt:";Olr is

wonderful on salads, Ml'at benefits from neur de sci and sci gns aftel'

" maJur )lart of 11i(' Ihllh

cooking i t . CheWing on salt sounds like an a,",'ful p roposition.

10 USe ;). good (Iuaht), vl lieKar,

In a \ lII('gar SJIICe, for IIl"Hllicr

' II "

IIII)lorllllll

' YA B B A

I lI)ftHUo(J n i h Suo .. l,

DABBA

w i t h G o l d o n C h n n H. ..·oJ l p H .

DO'

Po nllnt'H A n n n . I \ l 1 d HOl'd o l n l H c Snllcc

c6TE Of 80EUf

10 ."ng' I.ollo n poroey

2 pounds Yukon �d pototoes

1 double·cu. rib """k (oboot 2 '0 2'1:1 pound.)

2 .prig• •hyme

6 toblespoons Clarified Butter (poge 1 25), melted

Kosher, wll and f'Mhly Ground block pepper

1 boy leof

Kosher solt and freshly ground black pepper

Conolo oJl

2 loblO$poons 5Jlced oarllc

CHAHTERELLE MUSHROOMS

.. tabfespoons (2 OUnc:4\) unsalted buHer

6 bkJdt peppercorns

I tablespoon unsolted bultcr

BOROELAISf SAUCE

1 cup Veol S.ock (pogo 222)

I generous cup (3 ounces) chonlcrelle

1 cup red wfno, lOch as Cobornet Souvtonon

POMMfS ANNA

mu�rooms. washed. stems peeled,

If, cup ,11ced shollol$

1 0 pll1cd Pfuncn

and cut Into 1 .lnch pieces

liz cup ,Ilced

00,,01,

1 cup Chicken S.ock (poge 226)

1/04 cup \lIcod mu,hfoolm

Kosher soh and freshly ground block pepper

I tobl�pooo minced iho1l0h

Groy soil

A Ilk the hUI"her (or u douhle cui rllJ Hle.lk, or �tJ'e de hoclI!. HC:fl uCIiI � Ih;1I fi lII' 1runrlled of CXCtiU, rat, th.u the hone be "frenched," or

Thyme sprigs F O R T H E 8 0 R O E L A l S E SAU C E : In a medium 6aUCepJIl, bring Ihe

wine. vc:getable8, parsley. thyme. bay lcaf. and garlic to a simmer. and

IIcrapcd clean. :ulIl thnl the meat lit: tied ...· ilh Hlnng 10 hel l' II hold Hs

simmer unlil almo6t aU lhe liqUid has evaporated, Add the peppercorns

IIlwl'l' during cflukln",.

and vcal stock and simmer for another 1 0 to 15 minutes. or umil thc Slack is reduced to a sauce consistency (ahout liz cup). Strain the sauce

I HConHUJl lhl" 1111'111 ,111 1 do any large cui or meat 10 he IIcn'cd rarc to ulI'dluUl flirt'

II clay lH:'rorc rooklngHo

tluH the sail haslimc 10 penelrate

through a (lI1c·mesll strainer into a sUlall saucepan. This sauce can be refrigerated (or 2 to 3 days,

into Ihl' nc"h mill infl'nKlfy tile' navor.

fOR T H ( POMMES A N N A SJirlllklt- nil "lIIe'" of tiw Htenk Jlhcrally wilh

llah and pepper. Place on ;1

plah' "lIc1 ((·(ri Kc·mlt· for I day 10 allow the n"VOrll IO develop.

0111' hUlir In'(un' cookillg. relllove the meJt (rom the refrigerator. (II iH i m pu rt a nt Ihal fwd or Inml! IJC hro ught fO room temperature lle·fon· conkfllg, If the mc'nl IH cold. the cooking tlmc Will he Increased

11111 1 tilt' Ollt H id f' \\'111 hf' Merc'ooked !iy Ihe limc the inside rCathell its prop('r tl'IIIJlf'rntllrt" )

tl2

T h . F It", c h L n ll n d f Y Coo�boo�

Place the prunes and chicken stock in a

8mall saucepan.TIlc prunes should be jusl cO\'ered with liquid. Bring 10 '" 8immer and cook for about 20 minutes. or until the liquid has ev"'por.lted and the prunes are vel)' soft. Remove the prunes to a cutting bo.ud and finely chop them, Add the 8h3110ts and gray salt to tasle, Preheal thc oven to 450°F. Peel the potatoe8 and trim into cylinders that are 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. U8ing a mandoline. cut the potatoes cr086wise into I/u.·inch

sliccs. Placc the sliccs in a bowl of cold watcr for a minutc to remo\'c somc of thc starch. then drain and dry the slices on pilper towels. Put 2 tablespoons of the clarified buuer in an 8-lOch o\'enproof nonstick skillet. Place a slice of potato in the center of the )Jan. lay more potato slices around the edge of the pan. overlapping them by half. unlll }'ou ha\'c completely circled the pan. Continue with another O\'erlilpplng

lIe.1t

'I. IIlch of cOlnola oil in 3 lIea\')' ovenproof pOln o\'('r high h('31,

Add the stuk And seu It for -4 to 5 mlmllel. or until

h IS diuk brown ami

crullY on the bauom. Flip the lIe:ak Imd brown the aecond IIlde for 2 to 3 minutC!-8. Pour off mOlt of the oil Imd Oldd the bUller to the pan.

I'I�ce the p�n

10 the oven :and rol5t for about 5 11l1llUICli. 8ute the mc;!.! with the butter

circle of potatoes inSide the first. When thc cntlre boltom of the pan il

imd pan JUices. turn the Iteak over. and sprmkle with ,:alt. Continue to

covered. sprinkle a little kosher salt and pepper o\'er the potatoel and

cook. b3sting e\'er)' 5 mlnutel. for A 10131 of about 20 10 25 minultll. or

repeat the process to form a second layer. Spread half of the prune

until 3 me:at thermomeIer rends 1 1 5°F. for rare me3t. Another way 10

mixture o\'er the potatoes. leaving :1 1Iz·inch border all around. Work

deterrmne 1f the meat il cooked 11 10 pierce the meat in the center with

carefully to a\'oid mO\,lng the potatoes around too much. Make another

:I. cold knife or metal ske,,'er and le3\'e 11 there for 4 5 8ccond,. Hold the

two layers of potatoes. seasoning the first layer whh salt and pepper. and

lip toyour hpi if it il w3rIn. lhe meat II done. Remove from the O\'en and

spread the remaining prune mixture over them , ilgain lc�a\'ing a border.

let the me3t rest in the p:lIl for 10 minuteS,

Cover the prunes ....ith .. a final two layers of seasoned potatoes.

M[AHWH llt,

Pour the remalOing

fOR

T lU

CUAtHU[lL[

MUSUROOMS

lIent the

1ft cup clarlflcd butter O\'et the potatoes and

butter in it ,killet over medium h("3t. Add the mUlhrool11s, le380n "'hh

place the skillet over medium-low heat. Once the bUller beginS to

salt and pepper, Olnd cook ror 3bout 5 mlnutel. or until the U1U!1hrool1\lI

bubble. cook for 3 to 4 minutes. shaking the pan occasionally to be lure

3re tender itnd llightly "tOtllty"' around the edgra I\nd any lI'Iulll hu

that the potatoes are not sticking. Use a spoon to gently shape the top

evaporated. Rewarm the sauce o\'cr low he31.

I\cl1\ove the 'tring

and sides of the potato cake. keeping the prune filling from leaking out.

TO C O M H [ T [

Transfer the pan to the oven and bake for about 30 mlnutel, or unlll the

from the Iteak. Slice the mul 1t '1l1nl1 the grilin into 1f. · l Ilch

potatoes are ....ell .. browned and CriSp, 1 n\'en the poUto �ke onto a board

O\'erI3p the alices o n the aen' i ng platCi and place " "'edge of the pOlaloea

IIiCCl.

or serving platter. The potato cake can be made a fe...... hours ahead and

Ann3 alongalde. m,cre wi11 be enough pOlatoes for aecond".) Arrange

set aside at room temperature in the skillet. Reheat in 3 450°F. O\'en for

the chantcrclle mUlhrooml O\'er the steAK and apoon 10llle lilluce

about 10 minutes. or unli1 sizzling hot.

.he .op. Cunl.h ","h .hyme .prlg•.

F O R T H [ S T [A K

While the potatoes are cooking. pat the me3t dr)' (II

won', sear well if it is wet) and wrap the bone in aluminum fall to pre\'ent it from burning.

' I C T U I l O ON

PAGI

1 8 !1

over

I...

T h e F , . n c h L o u n d , ... Coo�boo�

Ilh" IUHUli In 'hi' 'nhlt', (lr H ,,'huh-

"" 1'''- "' ! l h " " ....,,. pOlnltU-",_ I nyt'I"-"

""\1\'1-_ 'l'hl" 1" "" lI"p'II'Iunl Mh'p I" tI'" h,'('uu"" - I t hwuh " M Ih,' c l l n " I' I n Ih,路 " ooklna: I n'(H." '"",

Aboo. 路Yat.bo Dol-be) Do: pcJIJ. 112

Meo,

lIS

B ra i s i ng

the Virtue of the Process

I lovedish.. . h..

'exl, ""'e brown the arom.nie vegetables. to dc\'elop some of the

lot of characrer. complexity. and depth hy

caramel rIchness of their 8ugar•. Then we dust the meal with nour

virtue of a long cooking procc811. Ihf nglJ like the vcal brC.18t or the lihon

and brown it on all sides, That aroma of the browning nbs has:'1 depth

rihH In the fUJI ·a u fcu. Tile technique IH whal lUltis(je8. What J lovcahout

to i t that is like no other aroma for me. When the mcat is browned. we

thcKC hr;tflu�d ilCnl8 11J thal lhey'rc nOI JU81 1J3UI�'�nd -8erve. The proccs8

add the browned vegetables and the clarified marinade. then flllilih

IJdlind them re'l uirt'H IllQuglH on the ran of the cook, and techOlque. 10

the bralslIlg liqUId with some vcal stock. Then we cook the fibs IIl lhe

crenle IWI1It'lhlnj( 1I10rt' than wh:lI you lilarted with. A (II 'I mIgnon 18 a

oven for flVc 10 SIX hours.

and

are JilUCCUICIII , that h:lVc

rile-I mlgnoll lll('r,'"" Ihtlt- difference between the rJW lIIe31 and Ihe

When the shor1 ribs are cooked, we remove them. vcry gently

cooked rural. HUI IlIiori ,ibIS. \'('ul brt'aKI Ihey become cOlllpletely

hccause Ihcy' re so sUCCU!CIlI and tender they' re failing apart. from the

different rnllliclI ,,(tc'r they're rookc:d. They transcend thCJIl8Ch'C8,

cooking liquid. We strain oul the aromaltcs and reduce the liqUid to 3

tlt-Vl'loping II full. {,'Hnpl/·x. '1011 IlIfyl nl{ ""ilt' and arOlO3.

sauce consllilcuey. skimnllug II often. Finally. we stram it agalll and

1'111' WH('('IUI of brfl llUlIg MIIOr1 rlh,;

could he any kllld of hr:llliC is

nn I'XfJUIMlh' IhlnK, Finn, "'r flHlke 11Il' rnnnntule 1Iy cooklllg the Illcohol

firalsed dl8hcs ltkc the short ribs gct beller wl t h :'1ge. After a day

0111 of lilt' Wlllf', IlwlI rulchug Iht' amnlilllCli1 rllrrOIS, Onions, hl'rbs,

or two, Ihclr navors have had a chance to mature together. These

Wh�lI lht- mlxturf' could, w(' pour it o\'('r Ihl' rnrlll nnd ICI Il IiIi for a tIny.

arc the kltHis of thi ngs I like to make at home III thc WlIlt 'r and cat

TIll' IWXI IIfI'p hi

fll·pllr.1 H' IhuMe IlI n·t· dl'nWlIlH lU:lrJnlldc,

over st'veral days.

"roIlII'lIJ(' V(·/{I·lnhlc·., 1II1(I IIIC';&1 ,'Hlel work IIrp:lr;"" ly wllh ('aell. finn. \\('

Whilt ,""c ' re dOing hcre IS taking cheaper. tougher cuts of meal and

IHrain I I ", IIHlnllllllllg 1111"111. llien hrtng II 10 n iJ011. 1he nihunllll

traJllirofflllug Ihell1 Into bcautlful. tender. exquIsite dishes that arc far

(proll-h'li) ill lhr 1111'111 JIIICl'fl lhnl lt'arhrc! lnto I ht' lI1nrtIHHI" lilll uil fy nnd

more 8al18fyll1g th:'111 filet mignon or rack of lamb. Agaut.

fo rlll II ('IMlfylng rllft, which III r(,lIIm't·cI . )('IIVlng

dlShl'S nrc '""' hnl ('ooklng Iii ;llI ahout.

1'I

rle.1r IIllxlUrc. Ali

II I"'"YII. wr ' rl' lIt' ,lrl'hlng for IIII' clruncflt. hrlKhlt'lit pOlitilblt' f1rn.' on.

186

sCl'\'e Ihc dltlh.

The Flench

L a u n d , y Caoklloo"

me. tIH:IiC

Meot

187

\\'

· P O T.AU · F E U ·

B.'nhwcl P I 'l na' IJ(·(·r S h o " l H l l h '

l l h nODI VC'gc.-' l u h l c· H n n cl S u u l l'cd BOtH,' � l n l'I'()W

MARROW IONES

� solt and f,nkly ground bkKk �r

16 red peori onlons, peeled

8 pi,,", ,"""OW bone (WI I ';' Incho> long)

Flour for dU10tlng

112 teaspoon red wine vinegar

About 1 cup oll.purpose flour

2 10 3 CUp' Veol Slock (pog. 222)

,t, cup lome'O dlomond. (... pogo 203)

Koskor 1011

2 10 3 cup' Chicken Slock (pog. 226)

3 tablespoon, dloppC!d honon parsley

Conolo 011

R O O T V E G E TA B L E S

IRAISED SHORT RIIS

2 medium ,we� bunch corrols

2 ploco. ptfme bonelo .. .hart ril» (obout I Inch

2 smoll pot'lnlps

PI, poond. eoch) '" 3';' pound.

I pound coul fot (only for boneless short ribs),

wo� In cold woter for 30 mlnules (optlonol)

2 smoll turnip', cui Inlo 1/.·lnch dice

Conolo 011

�Ieu lhort ribs Of 8 plKe1 bone·ln

2 lobfespoons WOO'

Gray salt

short ribs (about 7 to 8 OUrl(4J1 oach)

8 baby leeks Of smotl Kollions, tough outer loyer

I toblespoon finely chopped chives

Ihlck ond

I reclpo Red Wino Morinado (pogo 1 90)

1 6 while peort onions, �Ied

Conolo 011

removed and trimmtd

If you ha\'e two large p,eces or boneleas short

e Uti!! Ihe cxtr:tordlnary short ribs (rom D3�lIon·B:Jker In

f O R Tit E

Kentucky. '011: recipe will work w hh bone in ahon ribs 3S well.

ribs, lrim the excess rat from the meat (leaving the sih'erskin attached)

S H O lt T

18 S

Mnrrow Is 11 IrlldhfoJlal clement or pOI-au-reu. hUI ,",'e flour and pan·

and cui c;Jch piece against the gralO IOto two pleCtS, If you have smilller

r03ll1 It 80 thnl h', crunchy on the oUlside anti succulent on the 11111 tie.

boneless short rlba. there is no need 10 split them 10 half. Bone·in short

adding:l whole new dlmenllon 10 the dish.

ribs u8ually don'I require any trimming. Place the meat in :l well-sealed

I wrap the .hon rlhlf in caul fnt to create lighter. more compact plecel of mcnl, htll caul fal can be" difricull lO find. Tryclhnlc m;Jrkell or •peclnlty hUlchers if you

plaslic bas wuh the marinade and rdrrger:ltt for 8 10 24 hours. turning Ihe bag once or tWice.

�olllcl llke 10 tllC iI. but eliminallng it will nOI

Preheat the oven 10 275°F. Remove the meal rrom the marinade.

afftCI the flavor of the dllh much. If )'ou\'e ne\'er ulled h. though. do try

Siralll the marrnade IOta a saucepan and reserve Ihe vegetables. Brrng

10 rind 80l1le and experiment. Caul fal helps the mcal keep itA 8hape, :Iud

the marrnade to a simmer and "clarrry" the liqUId by skllnnung off the

It balllcli lhe IIIC:t1 nSlhc fttl renderK.

Impurrties lhat risc to the top, Hcmove from the heat.

Begin prep:trlng the IIhort ribll nnd the marrow the day before )'ou plnn to ileNe thl8 dilih.

lie:" II. inch of canola 011 In a large skillet over lUSh heat. Scallon both SHies of each pIece of meat wllh salt and pepper and dUBt wilh nour. l,awng offthc eXCC88. Place the mcal ln the hot 011 and cook for

Soak lhe ll1nrrow iJollc8 in n ho\\ i of lcc \\lIlcr for

2 to 3 I11II1Ule8 on all illdes. unlll well browned (adjusting the heat as

20 mlnUIC8. Drain 11IHI removc the marrow from lhc hOllt'K hy pUllhlng II

necellsary). Hemovc Ihe meat to a heavy o\'cnproof pot or casserole

out wlth}'our finger. If II dOt'ln'( COIl1t" OUI CI1Iiily, aoak the honeH hrlt"fly

Ihal holds the pieces III one layer.

r O R TtU M A R R O W

1l1li

In �'nrlll wnlc-r. JII8t t'!lough to loollcn thr marrow. Soak tht' marrow

Pour off thc excess all from the pan, relurn to the heat, and saute the

plccc8 1n a howl of Icc wntcr for 12 to 2·1 hOllrll, cilnllglJlK the walrr every

resen'ed \'t 'etable8 ror a few minutes. or UlIlIl they begrn to caralllthlc.

6 10 0 hour,., (It IJI IlIIportnnl 10 change the wnter "ecillI8c M lhe blood 18

Spread the \'egeI3bles O\'cr the meal I II an even layerand add the marrnade

extracted (roll1 lhc.- marrow, tllf' "nter WIll become 8aturated � l I h 1I100d

and 2 Ctlpli cach of veal and chIcken stock. TIle meat should he covl'red

nnd lhe: JIlnrrow could 8poll.)

with litl uldl If It III not. add more \'cal and chicken Slack a8 necessary.

Th. F r . n c h L a u n d r � C a a " b a o "

Bnngthe liquid to a simmer on the stove, COHr\I. ith :1 parchmcnt paper ltd (see page 1 90). transfer to the o\'cn. and br;\lsc: for 5 to hours for bondess short nbs or

3 to 4 houri for nhs .... lIh bonel. or

) 0 " 3T( " cap illng t h e ntr31 III (,3ul flu, til') t h e c.lul r:n wdl . Wr3p e3eh

luete or IUraI

III ('aul (,1t. rolhng It ov�r to ell(,;"I(' 11 in a tlo\lbl� I " 't'r or

caul fal l )ou should 611I1 s('( ,h(" 111('3t through Ihe fal. In :l 8\.llIel 1111lt Will hold Iht' nb" ('omfortnhly III one Inycr, hrat

unlll the menl lS " ery tender. Remove the meal from the pot ;and Stral O the hqulI.I I Ino a tall

I. • II1rh of 011 OH'r medlUlII Il1gh h(,:11 TIlt' 011 lilloultl he hOI hilt nOI

narrow container. Discard the vegetables, Ollce the me31 hM coolrd

6IHoking, Plnc(' liIe nh" In Ih(" IHIII :uul cook mll li goltlen hroh n on all "IX

slightly. cover H and refngerale II I It cOIn be 6tored for up 10 2 da)8.

Sidra. about 30 s('collds per

Sk101 the fat that nses to the top of the brmsl"g l lqu nl and filr:1ll1 lhe liquid several t uncs through :1 cllUlOIS (sce pol c

73) lIntll lhe dunols

remains cl ean. Rcsen'e aile tlllrd of the Imllslllg hqUld for reh ea tl n� Ihe

,ult

I f } 011 h:l\(' UliI(,11 caul r3l. " u llI Itr

.l1rnoKt COI11I)lclc1) re ud(" retl hUI s1l01l111 .1111 form a I TiU lSl u(,(, lIt ""ral" around tllt' IIhort nhs Tr.lIIKf("r tht' hrO\\ lI("ti niH' to " pOI \\ h('re th(' fll In O lle 13) ('r.

short nbs and \'cgclable g:tnllsh before sen·1I1g. Tn1l16fer the rem31111ng

PI:lce e nough of lilt' brJullIlg IItI 'IHI to JUtil ('QHr Iht" ('uolell

Imll sing liqUId to a saucepan and retl uee UIIIII it 111 3 sauce eOllslIHency

\'t'gC'13hl(,1J I I I a 8:1uct' l.a n ami d('1 3f11tJe' Atlll tht' re'lIlalntllg hra hu ng

(.bout 2 cups) .

liqUid to Ihe Jlot hl1h Ihr nllK 1 h(' nhK KhouM he noal lng In 11( 1 '11111

F O R T H [ R O O T V [ (; [ T A B L £ S Ihe same size:

Cut Ihc vcgel3hlc8 Into IlIeccs ofahoul

lanlllg at the n3rrO\\ ('nd of each carrot. cui 11 11\ a n

obl it l uC cut (sec page 203): F ,rst. cut off a dl ngon31 1"ece

aboul I'"

Illch

long. " ith Ihe klllfc blade pOinting a"3) from lOU al a 45 degree allHle 1\011 the carrot a quarlcr turn and cui another plecc al the saUlc angle Repcat the proccss unli l lhe carrot " IlJens.

lice Iht' .... Ider pan of the

carrot ICllbrthwllil' III half and conl lnue 10 lurn and cut the CJrTOt If tht' plcces iJccome 100 brgc. cut Ihe carrot Il'llbrt h.... lsc III hal bgJ l1l 10 kccp

I f I1(,CCblltl T) . :nl d \('al IItu('k nn n g tht' hC)ulIl 1 0 a 1t1 l1l11\C'r I\(' III U\' (' from th(' h(,31 31ld ('OHr Iht' lII('al " 111I :\ 1111 o r pnrehlllt'1l1 papc r IhJ (8r(' pagt' 1 90) 1\(,e' II I I1 . h a rlll KPOI or III a 300° F 0\'(, 11 11 11 1 1 1 rt':\tl

s('nt', or ror up 10 45 IIIlnule" Alld llit' coolt'd carrOIK, I lanUlI)lM. turnlplt. relt luul .... Ilth· pt'arl Ol\lon,., 3 11t1 lh(' tomato t1Htl1101l11" HI thr rrlle'netl hralMing hC )u itl II I Iht' 8Juc'cpall :1I1f1 ht'al grllll) 10 "'arm Add Ilu: choppt'd Mt'an .... ll1lt'. ('oul Iht' hOIlt' IIl.1rro"

l ).Irlllc '

'Ilu" ilrp Khuilitl lit· ,10111:' I1I lh('

Se Ihe samt' mcthod 10 Clit llac

Ia.lil mlnult' hdorf' Kt'n 1111{ Drain and II I) tlie' (llr(,t'K or lJtlllt' 1II.'rro.... .lIul

B1allch thl' c.1rrots, !larSllllhi. aud turrllps logether 11\ hOll i ng baited

contalllt'rurOIl it 1 '131t' SC':lh:oll lht' huut' 1I13rm'" nn all KlClc'jj '" IIh �(lKllt'r

water Shl'elellcd ,\lIh Ihl' sugar unt il complctel) It'nder UeIllO\(' tht' vegelables "lIh a slotlcd spoon or �klllllller and chili In Ice .... Jlc:r. drJln

fia" Cent·rousl) ('U3t t'at,1t 1'1(,(,t' In IllC' ntltlr III1tI IIKhl1 lU I ' tlrr nny tlC('b!i 1 It'.11 I '. IlIrlt or 1111 111 a 1.lr�t' IIUlUillCl Klll\t'1 oU'r IIlt'llIlIlII ht'nl

,dum cold a nd set aSide.

1111111 hOl ( I f lilt' fHI I" tou hot, Iht' nour .... ,lI lJurn lir·ru n' lht' Iw,rrn'" haK

the fmlshed plcceli c{ l ual III Sill'. parsmps. Keep thcm separate

Add Ihe Icl'ks to Ih(' hOllmg\\atcr and hl3nch 1Il1ui tl'lIcirr itrlllo'l'

tnm lli(' ('1It1" of C'nrh 10 ('rNIt' J n"l �lIrr"ct' Pl aer tilt· nuur lit " KIUIIIl

a cha net' 10 ( fib I', If tilt· t) l1 1 � WI) (:1)141. Ihc' IIIJrm.... .... 111 l11t'h hdu Tf' Ih("

('Till!,

OIl' II IH' h· rl .... ,Ih .1 ranK flf nflllr anti 110 marrcn,',

to another Ice \\31c:r bath ncpt'at h IIh Ihl' h IlIll' pearl olllonl\ a.ul fll1311

O IiI IilC!t· IIi

the red pcarl omoJlt.. addlli g thl' rl'd hllH' \' llIcgar. .... llIch "'III hrlp Iht'

Wurkill/o: "' lIh half lilt' marco"" IUt·u'" "I a 11 1111:', lil.tlltl t':u·h flu'ce' of

:1111)

OIl10n8 kC'l'p IlIt'lr n·eI color. In tilt, hOlllllg .... . I1l·r Wlu·1t Iht' \I'gt'lilhlt'b

nlJrm .... IlI l h.. p.11I ,lIld ulllk ulIlil till' t'11t)" aTf' goltl " 11 hru.... II. :JU to

arc cold. drain :1I1t1 dT) Ihl'm on pa l'c'r IOhdtt

·15

Ir UHlllg hond(,'86 bllon rrlui. trun Ihr fiult.·ri tu ('\('11

bt'WIUls flt'r t'1U1 1.3) thr I"(,ft'll flf IIIMru.... flIl Ilwlr Iild,'K I1lul mil thl'lI\ II) IIro.... n II Hht l) ,,,, ,,11 "ltl,.�. :l l u 3 1I1111111t'Ii 'I IIr uUlliltle'liluHlltl l1l' (-'nRJlY

them. CUI each Pll'Ct' of rr b 11110 rt'll.lll.,rular PICCC'1i ahoul I ' l IlIdwfi h)

hUl lht' 111,,"1,. tihuulel !il ill lIa\(· .1 w·IUlInOlili UHllillilfolll'Y HC'IIIC )\(' fmlll

2'12 IlIchcs. (Thl' 617t' \\111 dcpcnd largd) ol i lhe rOrtll of ) CJllr 1tIt'�II . ) I f

tli,. p,ln .Intl he·p III a "';mll IIIJ('"

TO C O M P L E T E

Ulllng a Hlol I cd .epOO", arrange ':ln equal amount of the vegetables

M A R I N AT I N G M E A T S

USING

WINES

OR SPIRITS

on each serving plate. Place the leeks in the vegetable hraising liquid I f you're marinal in ' anytillng ....'ilh alcohol. cook the alcohol orr firsl.

to warm for .3 mlnutt. sauce

Alcohol doesn't tenderize: cooking lendcri7.es. Alcohol in a mari nadc i n

ovcr the dld eH, HO thai it I iglHly coatI the mtat a nd dri7.1le8 onto the

effect cooks I h e extcrior o f t h e meat, prc,'cnling Ihe meal from ful ly

vcgtlaIJlc8, Lay a pIece of bone m.urow ovcr the top of each rih.

ahsorbing the na\'OT8 in the marinade.

Place the !fhort nhs o n top of the vegetahles and spoon th

Sprinkle gray !Jalt and then the chopped chives Over the hone marrow.

1\.1\\' :llcohol i lself

doesn't do anything good to meJt. So PUI your

Top clleh willi a Iwhy Icck.

.....I ne or splritll in a pan, add your aromatics. cook orr the alcohol. lei it

" C l U I C O Oil ,. ... tiC

cool. and then pour it over your meat. 111is way)'ou have Ihe richness of

187

' ' the fruit of the w i ne or Cognac or whalever you re using. hut you don l

PARCHMENT

PAPER

ha\'c Ihal chcmical re:acl ioJl of "hurning" the meat wilh alcohol or i l s

LIDS

harsh ra.... ' navor. Very r.1rcly will you lice a pOI with itd l id on It I n my kitchen. I prefer

I don't know if there's :l place for r,1W alcohol, as opposed to winc

"llrehment paper IIdli. llcCJUHt they allow fiornc eV<lJlor3lion <IS well as a

thai IS cooked in some: way. III the IIrepllrJtion of haule cuisinc. And ir

l ong cook i ng time, lHul lhey 3180 protect the fiUrface of Ihe meal from

),ou ' rc Serrous about eating. i f you're serious about food and wine. you

"eeom l ng c:mullt·!Izcd all it cook8. 1t'8 likc haVing a htl 31Ul not h,wing J

should consider Ihe fact thai raw :llcohol in food Will o\'erwhel m the

lid iJ l llw HIIIlW IIInc.

.....i ne )'ou'n :scIVI Jlg wll h Ihat food.

To IIlllk,' :I pareh mt'lit lid. cut or tear a Hquarc of p;lrcJuncnl lIigger

I hrl ll till' pot 10 tIC' em't·red. fold IWO oppos ite co rncrll i oge lher 10 form a

RED WINE

MARINADE

Irillng"', I IIt'Jl fold l 111H trulIIgle in half Inlo a lJtr1;Jller t ri'Hlglel it will have twn .,hort liid" 1i IIIHI onc Ifl ng Hidt'. '·olliI llHi the truUlgl

. KO

Ihat nne of the

112 cup onk>ru Cui InlO 1.lnch mlrcpolx

One 750·ml bollle (ed wine

Hlum KItI" 11 fnc,'� ynu. Polcl lhlij bOIIOIII " dgc up, uHlklllg;J narrow tria ngle.

'6 cup COHOI" cut Into 1.lnch

111111 ,'n'jIHe It. IflIli ntil l liing Ihe pHi !! t of Ihe I rlangle• •1K If you ....·cre making

mlrcpoht (sec poge 203)

pn lu'r nlr"ll'l''''. '.'old tllill ....... ltll.;" flvcr again. lIIallllllirling Ihe POlIll, and

" Ollllrllw fnltllllg ill lhlH IIUIIIIlI'r Ulliit you gel 10 IIII' Oi l ier Kill"

:Ihout rive

or Klx foldK In ;111. YmJ "llOul,1 f,"lIih will t n "ery slell,Jer IrI,wHl e.

("'" poae 203) 3 cloves gorllc. sma�hed

1/J cup leeks cut 1nlo 1·lnch mlrepohc

10 sprigs 1Iolion parsley

(whIle and pote green pons

2 �prig� Ihyme

only, s.ce poge 203)

I boy lcaf

Tu IIlt'ilIUJrt' Ih� IIIIC'. "hlct· the III' over tht' c" nter of the pot 10 be

cuvl'n" 1, murk Ih e " "Ke IJf the pot wilh your I hu lI1h, and ('ut thc CIIIJ off

Iu·n'. Then ('ul {l ll unnt'r ineh offtlie III"

ufold you r t rlangle, It ....' 111 he

Thili mari nade. uscd IIl sc\'cral d ishes. can IIlso he made wilh white ....· i nc: when approprrate- wlth vcal, for e xa mple. Usc n wille Ihal 18

Cahernet

:1 circle- II I(' Klle of YUllr pnl. wl l h a lill'mn hole Ifl the cent(·r. Plilee Ihl8

acceplahle for drrnklng, tiue" 3S :I

IlIlpcr lid 111 1111' pOI fiO I hal l l relilfi gl'ntly oll l h,' fOUlI you'n' cooking.

B1:1J1c. Always cook off 1111 the alcohol first. or the alcohol will bcglll 10

S3llVlgnon or Sau\'igJlon

cook your rutal (lice ai,ove).

Plact' all ihe IIIg retl l e llls

III a

"Hie pOI and hring 10 a holl. Ti l t the Jlall

a ....ay . from Ihe hurrll'r :wd carefully Ignite Ihe Wille wllh a IlIIIICh. Allah'

III(' alcohol

hurn off. then hghl II :lg:lln. If there arc no nallleS, the

alcohol iii Hone. Cool Ihe 1II:IfIII:ule. I he n pour O\'(�r Ihe nll:a l ;1110 marrn:lte for 1110 24 hours.

190

T h ll F l ll n ch Ln u n d , � Coo�boo�

""001

191

IlI'nlHed

BJ'CUHl of Venl w i t h

Ye J J ow Co I'll

5 cups Chld= S.ack (pogo 226). WO''''.

Y(AL

Po l c l l l n Col(e ... . G l ozed Vcge l o h l c fJ . n n d Sweel G n l'l l c

Dobby veol "'eo.. (abcxn 5

paunch)

V E G E TA B L E G A R N I S H Thirty-two 1.lnch pieces corral, turned (sec pooe

or a combinallon

l<o>ho, ",It and f,.,hly g,ound blo<;k peppe'

3 wps Veol SI<xk (poao 222)

Conola 011

P O L E NTA

24 botons celery root (I Inch by II.. Inch)

2 tobl�poon$ OIJon mustard

2'1, wps Ch.cken S.ack (poao 226)

24 fluled ovols of turnip (see poge 203)

'12 cup pon�.o (Joponcso bteod crumbs;

3 cups wot�r

32 po,bl.nn. boll, af booI (soc pog. 203)

'12 teaspoon mInced gortlc

8 cloves gorllc. pooled

crumbs, tlnoly oround In a blender

I '12 cups polenta

2 tcospoons unsalted bunor

and " fled IhrouOh a tlno strainer

8 tobfC$poons (4 ounces) unsolted OO"or, at room

Pinch of sugar

seo Sour(.(t1, pogo

3 1 5) or dry breod

203) or cut Inlo '/..·jnc.h.thlck batons

temperature

8RAISIUG LIQUID

1 '12 (upt leQk.$ (ul lnlO I,Inch mlrcpol. (... pogo 203) 1 cup carrols cul lnlO ' .Inch mlrepol.

I tablespoon canola all

2 toblC$poom moscarpone

I/ cup 8currc Mont� (poge 135) J

2 tablespoons mInced chlvC$

I teaspoon finely minced chtves

Kosher $01t and fr�hly 9round block pepper

(• • 0 pogo 203)

Flour for dU$llno

I cup onlom cut InlO 1 .lnch mlrcpol.

2 teaspoons finely mInced chives

SAUCE

I cup ,educC!'d bralslno liquid (from above)

(w. poc' 203) 1/, loroo hood aortic, cui In hoU, root end and

2 tablespoons Hnely mInced shollols

loow ,kIn romoved

I tablespoon finely minced Italian parsley

, boy loaf

1/" cup 8CUHO Mont6 (pogo 135)

4 sprios Ihymo

Kosher !tOIl and freshly ground block pepper

1/, cup hollon panley sprlos

w" ck lit'(ore: ,Iu- FrrrlC'h 1..1unliry opc!IIcd, I cooked Ihis l!! rny o\'e:n

o\'cnproo( pot brge enough 10 contain the vcal hreast and the hr:lising

tit hOllU' (or till' original cre:w. :wd we sal uut on the hack ch'ck and

liquid. he31 1/. inch of oil o\'cr medium heat until it is flO hot that you hc.1r

her. II Wjlff Ihe I;un lillie wc cHd thnt. "0 thlM nh' 10 WI f recipe' 10 IIIC'. IIII original Frt'nch l.nululry dilih,

III

a nwaninbrful

The vral hrea"t (nlik ymrr hUI('hrr (or n Bohhy \'co1l IJr('.1 811 (rom a

vC'ry yuung animal, II 'M liflUillcr thnn n f('hrtllnr 11fe.'n"l) 18 brallit'd, then coole·cII IIIC· IJOflt'K tlrf' ft'IIlOVCII nnll lll,· l.rt,tlrit

III

II "JlOp." Place the vcal hreast skin ludc down in the pOI and sC:lr umil it iK crrspy and a rich golden brown. Turn the breast :lnd liC:lr the other liidc

(olelcll o c r 10 Ilouhlc 118

Ihlck",'''H, cut 1'110 ,wrvlllK (Ion ionM (I ,'ul II i lito rolln(111), tllHl liallt�cd to rrlwaf. It 'll 8crve'c! 011 a polclltn cnkr Willi rout \'rgcwhlell and a Hauee lIIade (rol1l tilt· IImlMlng Iic l " IcI ,

the same ....ay . (the iiccond sHie .....on·' hrown 3S e\'cnly :18 the (mil Side hecause o ( l lic curv.1ture of the nbs). Hcmo\'c thc meal and drain off any excess (at that has accumulated rn lhe pOl. Ad d the lecks. carrots. 01l1On8. ga rl i c . hay lear. thyme. and pauley 10 the pOL Cook (or 3 10 � IIII1\utCIi. so the \'egetables hegin to carzullt'lb.e. HelufII the lIIeat 10 the pOI. hone sule do..... n. ncld the

Thl" rrclpe IIIUKt II" ,Hn rlt'li n tlay nheo1ll,

chicken and \'cal iilocks, :lIul cover wllh a parchment lid (sec page

1 1)0), Urlllg the "'Iuld 10 n slInrner o n top o(lhe sto\'e. then Ir;msfer to TO U R A l S [ T H [ Y ( A L

the o\'�u nutl cook (or 3 1/z to 1 hours, or ulltil you

Prt'llt'at thr u\,cll lo 325°P.

Trim tilt' hOllolU o( the \'('.11 hrfMt o( c'Xc!CIiIi conncclh'r tiKsuc. Semwn hOlh tildc'8 o( Ihe hre'nlil wilh linll and Ilt'l'pt'r, In

192

Th e F r e n c h L a u n d , y COOU IOO'"

hcavy

C;1Il

iilule out the rrh

hOIll'K Wllhout any rcSHHance. Using 1 .... 0 large spatulas. carefully rCll1m'c the JIIent (rom the pan,

(Lift from undcme.lIh the meat. or it may fatl OlpOln bcc.luSC II II so tender.) Pl3cc the ve.11 on a cUlling board. bone filde up. Wllllc the m�:U IS still hot. use your ringc", and 3 knife 10 n!lnO\'e aU the gummy plC:CU of

r O R T H l Y [ Ci l T" l U : Ci A R H I S H

rl3("e tht' farroili. cdc!)' root. nnll

lurrHps I n :1 pOI ofhghtly salted cold wlter. brrng to a boll, alltl cook unlll

connecth'c tissue, bClngc.lreful not to removc too much m('.1t wllh II. Pull

trndrr. Mc:.. n.... lnle. ("()()k Iht' herl" the sallie '\;1 ' tn " IlIH311 pOI (1\0 Iht" don'l dl8color the othrr \(�rt3blt"ll) . 1\t'1I\0\'t' Iht' hhmch('u c:\rrott',

out the nb bones. nemovc aU the c3nl13gc that nms thc lenh",h of Ihe Side

cdc!)'. :mtJ l"nlipS l o a bo.... 1 of I('t' .... :1tt"rto cool. Chill ihe bct'hl lu::p:mudy

of the breast. TIllS wllllc. 60ft c.ln,bge Will bc larger.1t the top of the bre3st

In :lIIother bo,,' of ICt' .... 3ler (the beels Khouhl be kcpt 8t'par3tco unlll renlly

and get smallcr .18 you approach the bottom of the brcast; )'ou \\,111 need to

to "ef'\'e 80 Ihey don't discolor the other vcgetahlc8),

feel under the surface. bccausc not all the pieces of canll3ge arc \'Isible.

Put the hrarilc III a small 8411('C'lltUi of ('oM .... :Urr n",1 tlnng 10 11 holl.

Season the top side of the hrc.1st with 8Jh and pepper. Fold the

Dr3Hl lhr bfJrllc 1II ::to "Ir:uner :uld nnse lIlIller ('old nltuung: .....aler I\rpC"1l1

breast i n half .1nd season both sldcs. Pl3ce thc ,'cal breast on .:I

Ihe proccdur(' 1\\0 tlilles. hilt the b"t lillie. hOII the garlic c!O\'c" ulI,iI

parchmcnt -Iined baking shecl. Covcr the meat ....'1111 another l uece of parchment alHl lay another baking sheet on ta l), Place a IIghl weight on

Iht'y 3rt: Icmler,

the baking shcet and refrigerate ovcrnight to nalten the niCOli, (TIle

8 rounds from the polC'nl3.

weightcd vcnl hrc:Jst should be nboul ]/.. Inch III rh,)

\'c..1 hrc:asl, Umlih the plfee. of \('31 hrt'3lU ..... lIh tht' IntllHnnl and ,lrcodW'

Strain the br;usmg I UIUld through a Cillna cal' (sec page

73) and

C O ",, ' L l T [

With " 2 Hldl roulltl culter (or shllliar IUU). cut 8CO thr ":tnlC� futtrr 10 ('III

n rOllndtl from the

then through a chinols (see page 73). Wl1hout prcsslng on an)lhlng Ihal

them III lhe cnllnh", l Ie31 3hout II. mch of f.1nolll oll u\ cach of '\11 0 o\'e'liproof skllll't"

remains in the SlraHler. (Pushing through any sol Ills or thld:: and plsty

o\'er IIlcdlUm heal. CO:ll lht' J lICCC'1i of polcnlA .....ith nour. pnlllllg off nuy

liquid would cloud your fiOlshcl1 sallcc.) Cool down the strained I I qu ui

excess. Add tht:' \'cnl hrt';lIil 10 one 8klllel ;,,111 Iht' polrnt" to Iltt' !lth('r Cook for 2 to 3 IIUIlUIt'1i on ('at'h Side. or unlll ('v(, lIly hro.... llrtl l1l1tl hoI.

(There should he about

3 qUOIns) III a container Sci over Ice. Once cool.

cover 3ntl refngernte overnight.

(Sh3ke Ihe pan C'olllalUlng Ihe \'('uh .....hell thr Ult'ut 11\0\'(''' fre'dy. II I"

The next day. remo\'c any fal that rna)' havc solidified on 101' of Ihe hraislllg J iq U HI . (The IHI U l d Will prohnhly ha\'e gelled from Ihe geiatlll l U

rC3d) to 111m.) If the fliNt or polCn13 IIre....... u8 hrfore Ih(' ('t'lIle'rll art' hUI. tilt' 8klllt'18 can hc placed III It 350°1: OVt'Ii IO flnilih cuokhlJ.:

t h e mcat,) Place the hralsing I I qu ul ln a )lan. hrat slo....l)' 10 a SUlll1ler.

Mcall .... lllit'. dr;lan tht" \r..:elahlr8 Mdl lht' J.ll1trr .... lIh lilt· flu!;ur III n

nud reduce the liqUId unlll 11 IS a deep red hrown, tluck. and gloss), l )'ou

small skillct. Wht'n thc hutter iii hUI, IIdtl lhc: K.lrh(' dUVl' !I :lfIIl tUlUIl- for

should ha\'e nhollt 2 cups, Set aSHle I cup of S3UCC for tillS dish, (111e

2 10 3 nlllHlI('1I O\t'r 10'" hr:H. until J.:oltit'u hro\\ II, Sct Millr. lIe;&t th calloln 011 In a fIIt'eJ IIIII1 lI},ollrl Wllcn II tK hUI. ":1l1t� tilt'

reJJlailUng sauce can he frof.l'n for future use.)

Brmgthe chickell slOck, \\'alcr, alHl g:trllc to a holl

hlanchet! ('arrOIS. cd,,!)' root, 31H1 IUrmpK twer fIIf'thUIII he:.. until thty

i n a s3ucepan. \V1l1sklllg constanll)'. pour II1 lhc polel1t3. neturn the hllultl

ha\'r colorC'ci sllJ.:lllly. Dratn tht' 011 frorn Ihr li\.allcl. lo\\t'f tht' heal, nml

to a "ullmer and cook Ihe polcnta O\'cr \'ery low heat. tillrrlflgoccolSIOfl.1l1y.

3del the:: heurre monlt'- 31111 1ht' ehh'rll Knp Ihc \'rgt'lahlclI \II'ilrlll o\,I'r low

for 25 to 35 nllnutcs, or untll the polenta Iii dllck and smooth.

h(,31t do nol hall

F O R T H E P O L E N TA

When the polenta IS cooked. Sllr Ill lhe IHlller. f1Ia8Carpouc. c IIIW:S,

alld "nit and pepper to t.UUe ,

prl'3 d the poll'llIa

III a

hy 13 wch

hnkll1g Ilan, Lcl ll cool to room temperature. Ihen CO\'cr Ihe surface With

plalillC wrap and refngeratc. (Thi S recipe JlIakcs cxtril l'0lcllIa. hU1 1l .... 111 keep for a few dn)'1i for another men!.)

Wnrnl Ih(' tlauce lit It lunall liauc(· IHul. Stir in thr R)mllols. l Iarlllcy. 31111 ht'urn' monli- St';UiOfI 10 tllMIt' "'lIh 1131t allli pr llprr. Cclllc.' r " pOl)l t)( !taller 0 11 rach fit'rYlJlK I IlatC.', top ..... lIh tI rounel uf ::I J"rCt' of \'c31 hr(,:Jlit. Sur the hertll Into the

polcllt3 • .11111 COHr .... 1I11

\\aWl vegt'lahlt' g.Jrrlltth nfHI spoon Ihr \'c:gelahlt'li nnd garlic ,·Io\,t''' oVl,!r the \'t'31 Sprtnkle wllh Iht' rllI\'el ",TV.'O

Oti P " CO I

t91

Meol

193

'I' .. I�

I' I 'I' 'I' F4 U U It G I I

I I A 1\1 I I I � I t I

K E

I TH

M A lit T I H

The first day I was In the French Laundry

raised lamb the way ho bolloyed was right,

kitchen, I watched Thomas Keller seam out

using no procened fe.d, no onttblotlCl,

'0 good, Kel'h ,oy', -It', what they oat, - And

tuna-that Is, remove the sticky silver

letting the animal, grow In the best panlble

ho run, off to what look' Ilko bal" of hoy

membranes between the layers of pure fleth-

conditions_ He couldn't compoto with tho big

stocked 0' tho for end of the born, Keith yonk,

to make tartare. I asked, -Why are you doing

growe" at the lIyestack ouctlonl, So ho tried

out a handful of drlod gran-alfalfa and cloy.r

thot?-

to sell his lomb on his own, picking up 0

he grew, cut, and boled the previous summer,

re"ouront here, a specially grocer there, going

Keith rUlhes me. Ho ,ays. -Tosto thl'.-

Thomas halted to store at me. Then he peeled one of the membranet off his boord,

broke fast. Thon Thomas Kelle" who'd heard

extended It like a dangling mixture of sllverskln

about Keith from a Pltuburgh food wrller,

and sallvo, ond sold, "Eat It." I figured he

called ond asked to try his 10mb.

couldn't be terlous. "Go ahead" he sold.

Whon t ad: him what makes tho moat ta,to

I toke It. I chew It, ond I Iwollow It. Kolth

eats somo, too. and nods at me, smiling. Keith does nOI glvo his lomb an,lblotiCt.

"It's the most eklraordlnory lamb,- Thomas

and becaulO thoy oro sUICoptlblo to respiratory

I took It, I chewed It, and I swallowed It.

says. "The fat cantont Is perfect. It really tOltel

Infection, ho must take spoclal caro 01 thom In

Thomas sold, "Sometimes you have to

like lamb. Somo people don't lIko It because

tho winter Ho will 110 down In ,hel, bedding.

experience 'he ,eolly bod In order to avoid It,"

they'ro not used to what good lamb tastes IIko.

feo' the drynen at tho hay thoy 11'10 on, broa,ho

Then he went back to his cutting.

I feel lucky to have found Keith. He laves what

tho air thai 'hoy breolho to moko suro thoy',o

he does so much, It really shows up In the

complelely comfortoblo

In 1 989, Keith Martin, a slockbroker In downtown Pittsburgh. come home from his

product." Kelth will send Koller lamb

office and told his wife, Mary, that he was

sweetbreads and hanger sleak and Iddnor He'll

callod tho hired man In charge of spreading

going to become a former. The whole family

bone out Ihlrty lamb cheekl, painstaking work

Iresh hay He brought tho man Into tho pon

thought Keith was cr01Y.

He'll send brains and other, mare obscure

area and sold, "Lie down " Tho hlrod man

Innards. "All kinds of ooofy stuff" lays Keith

looked at tho hoy, which was looked with urine

"The first time I walked Inlo Edgar Mllle,'s barn," Kelth explains, referring to one 01 his brokerage clients, "'It didn't smell bad to me

II smelled good. Somelhlno locked Into me and I knew I was In the right place " So at the age 01 Ihlrty-onc. he Quit his lob,

From the moment of conception, Kellh's lambs orow 01 Ihelr natural role "There' s a Olow about them when they'ro In good order," Keith says of his flock "There's a Iheen 10 their coalS Sec how tlOhl and

cashed In his small pension, and uuďż˝d It 10 by a

crinkly Iha' wool II Look how pink Iho lIosh Is

flock of ewes and yearlings and one fence He

when you part the wool ..

Onco, whon Ihelr boddlng wo' foul, ho

and o_crement -Go on," Keith laid Tho man did, and when ho sload, his clothos were soaked with urine Aft,,, ,hal, the man kopl the bedding Iresh Sometimes you hovo to olpcrlonco Iho really bod In ordor 'a avoid It -M R

" '"Il" U'"I" IInci lUll u, lu n t h IN I I o ' " ",,,, l u , "",1 1 ;

1'\'1'

.. d ull)l), ndflc'd Il " IW frIO"U

.,I«,OIIIIIIN_ III)1uhl), "'''Nh h"'"I"', ite1Uu", Hrl! OIlU U' tttu UUI'"

"'U"hllll"''''

"' U I I I II'I(!r; I 'O\'t' IhcjJr

n l l e l \I,"'lul)" \VeI Ilrnw I I IU I I)' 'd,ul", " , h" UIlN In 11111 unrdnn HI Ihu

Ilul 1IIf'III fIUHHIH.tf!t-Ihl' 111111111 0' n Cl' .. ",,,, lltu' " run(!', »1'''''' 1 1111 ",It,,\, n' IIWn l-hfWIItI"''' \\'1'

(JlIOI,

Ih" l (If'I''''HI IIC!'''''' I h u l

r ..H'UI I h ••

I h u h l l l l lll'

196

" .

' '

111

'welll'"

und

I h l l dl,,.,,1 hl'n ll '" \'ur'), ",'uwl)' with " " OltlnlJu", In dCtVI" U Il

111",«1", ,,

"","'oolt" N" "' I )tw ll l i . 'I'llu hn(Jflrlllllt ",I,c'p I .. In

.. , , h''IIII'' II'" OI'IIHIII)' III luXI I I " I! II'"

Illu ""tUU!,

The F r e n c h Lound,y Cookt.cook

1"" I I rh'd

h" IIlI"', whIch I de) \VUh

D o u b l e n i b 1..1l111b C h O P H w i t h C u � � O U 1 0 1 of S U l l l U 1 C l' I.1t' I \ I \ 1'4 n ut! nOJoHHl ln l'Y

CASSOULET OF 8EANS

10 Iorge green beans, blanched until tender

2 tablespoons dried morraw beans

(..., BIg·Po, Blanching, pogo

58), chlll<!d In

2 tablespoons tomalo dlonlOn(b (sect pogo 203) 2 ,.,"peon. B","ol>. (pog. 155)

(or other white beans), soaked oYCmloht

ko water, drained, and cut on tho b60s Inlo

Ko�r salt and freshty ground bIoc.k pctppor

at room temperature In 1 cup woter

1 .lnch pieces

LAM.

2 toblespoons dried cranberry beans, soaked overnight at room temperature In 1 cup water

10 largo yellow wax beans. blanched untll tander

V, cup Chicken S'ock (poge 226)

Ico 'WOter, drained, and cut on lho btos Inlo

Two 2-lnch sedlons leek

1 .lnch pieces

Two 2.lnch sections carrot

6 doubl�ul rib lomb chop', lrimmed

(... BIg·Po, Blanching, pogo 58), chlll<!d In

of e_cC1S fOI ond sllV'C!l'\kJn and bonos Iranched (oboot .. to 5 ouncos each)

� soil and frcnhty ground block popper

1/. cup peeled favo beans, germs removed

Conolo 011

Two 2·lnch·long onion wedges

(seo pogo 80), blonc.hed until tendCf

2 lablO\poon\ ( I ounco) un\Olted buller

I recipe -Quick" Lomb Souco (poge 228)

(sec Blg'Po, Blanching, pogo 58), chlll<!d In

J clO'I'C\ oo,Ue, spilt and cfudlCd

1 teaspoon unsalted buner

Ice 'WOter, and drained

6 .",Ig. 'hymo

V. cup fresh �ns (see Sources, pogo 3 1 5), blanched unlll tender

(� Blg·Pot Blonchlng,

pogo 58), chilled In lco water. and drained

TO COOK T H E D R I E D BEANS

Remo\'c and discard any bean skinS

1 sprig rosemary, leave\ onty Rosemary 011 (pogo 1 66)

hallam, 1\lrn the choJls and continue to cook for another

3 mlntue.,

that have riscn to the top of the water. Drain and rime the beans and

Place the.: chops on their "idea and rotllte them to hrown the IIhleli.

place them in two scparate small pots. Add cold water to covcr hy

another I

2 inches and bring to a boil. Remove and discard any beans that come to

slightly rare.

the surfacc, Drain the beans and run under cold water to cool.

10 2 minutes, TIle chop" IIhould be well hro..... ned but atlll

Hemo\'c most of the rllt from the pan nntl

ulhi the butter. huting the

Return thc beans to the pots and co\'cr each with h31f the chicken

I.unh chops with the hutter ali iI meltll. Top the 111mb ..... Ith the gulic

stock and enough watcrto cover the.: he3ns hy I inch. Add a piece oflc:ek.

clO\'e:8 and IIpngs of thyme. Place: the: pan In the O\'cn for ahout

carrot. and onion to each pot and slowly bnng 10 a simmer. Any beans

4 minuteB, or until the

that have not hydrated and any loose skins will come to the IOP I skim

thermometer should regilHer 1 1 5° to 1 20 o P. He move the pan from the

them orr and discard. Simmer the buns for about I hour. or until they

O\'en and let the meat rest for 3

arc tender. The beans can be cooked up to a day ahe3d and refrigerated in their cooking liquid.

III Ilt aI' medium- nre, an Intltnnt - f(:aci

10 01 mlnulell,

While the lamb II cooking. drain the cooked heao" nnd combine the heanlantl ahout half of the: ltunh 8uuce i u u 8:tuccpnn. BrinK to 11 simmer.

Loop a piece of kitchen tWine around the hone of 3

tikun the B:lUCC:. and warm through. ahout I to 2 minutes. Sllr In the

lamb chop just above the me.:at . ....'rap hath ends of the t ..... lne around the

hUller. then add the green and yellow beau8. the fav3 hcanll. soybeans.

meal. hring them hack 10 the bone. 3nd lit the (Wine around the bone to

tomato dlamond8. hrunoisc. nnd 8alt and pepper 10 tnate.

FOR T H E LAMB

give a uniform shape to the chop, CUI off the excess twine and repeat with the remaining chops. Wrap the hones 10 aluJnlrlum fall to protect them from hurnlng, season the chops ....' hh sah and pepper. and Ie.:t rest at room temperature for an hour.

To e 0 M P l £ T E

Preheat the oven to 375°F.

lIeat Iia Inch of canola 011 10 a large skillet over medium high heat. Add the lamh chops 3nd saute for ahout 3 nlHlUt s 10 bro..... n on the

Me:nn.....llllc:. p13ce the remairung bml! Muce in Il smllll pot nntl llimmer O\'cr low heat for 3 10 01 minutes to reduce the gla1c (ahout II. cup), Place 3 ponlon of the ....' arm raKout on e: l ch pilite. Sttuul a lamh chop on it,. Side wllh the hone facing up Over the !Jeans, SCillter a few rosemary !c3ve8 ovr.r the ragout and dn'1.1.le a few d rop. of r08emary oil over the beana and the lamll. 11> "' 1'; 1 \ 6 \ ' . V l l l ct \

Meot

197

Bel l we t h e ., J1n.'m

P,'OVC Jl901

Bnhy Ln'11 i>-[11ve C u t R Se.'ved w i t h

Vcgc l n b l c s .

011

BJ'nlHcd Clpol J J n J O n l o n H . n n d Thy.nc

value this dlllh a ll 4 chefbecauae it', a learning experience for my IItaff.

For the .hOlnka. shouldertl. breasts. and neck: Braise in 13mb stock

II givCl them an underltandin8orhow to break down an entire four·

in the oven for 3boUl 3lf:a hours. oruntil tcnder. Cool the bmb pieces i n

legged lmlmal and where the individual pans come from. Theile things

the stock for an hour. then remove them and IIrain t h e siock. Rescrve

are Important for any chtfto know.

the brcuts and remove the meat (rom thc shanks. shoulders. and neck.

The exciting part about this elahorate preparation is cooking the

TO M A k [ R I L L E T T E S

Reduce some of thc lOlmb brOlising liquid to a

cllIlre animal In different waysl braising lhe neck. forequarter•. and

glaze (straining severOiI timcs). Shred the meOlI and add it to the glaze.

hrealh Prenching the rackl Sluffing the saddle, and boning out the

along with some butter. extra virgin olive oil. brunoise. salt. and pepper.

leg. marinating h whh nit. pepper. thyme. garlic. and mUlltard. tying

Roll the rillettes in plastic wrap to form a log Ph inches in diameter.

It up. and routing it. Theil. making 3 .tock from the liquid you've

RefrigerOlte.

braised the neck and hre:uiI in, making a quick sauce from that stock

When the log is chilled. cut into 1/2�inch rounds. Just before

with the honeH left over from the rack and the I4ddle and the leg. The

serving. cOOlt the rillene8 with panko (jnpanese bread crumbs) and 8aut�

d ifferent 3roll138 that emerge when you're doing all this are

i n c!:lrified butler.

phenolllenal.

FOR

TH[

BREAST

follow the cleaning. weighting. and cooking

Anti then the smAil miraclel to put the IInlmal back together.

instructions (or vcal breasl (see page 192). brushing them whh Dijon

prellemlng the pans of the entire lamb on a single pili Ie. 111is. to me. Is

mustard 3nd coating them with breOld crumbs mixed ..... ith minced

whal cooking ISlIlI llhoul.

parsley and garlic before cooking.

We uae th,. Callahan (amily'8 nell�'ether Farm hOlhy !:Imh, but OIny (rl'8h hllhy Inlllb

etu)

he Ulu:d. lIere la how II is prepared nt the French

lAundry.

f O R TH E S A U C E

Make a "quick" sauce (see page 228) .....ith the lamb

bones and remaining braising liquid. TO C O O k

Preheat the o\'en to 350°F.

Saut� the legs in canola oil to bro..... n; add butter. garlic. and Butcher I drc'lIIIcd hOlhy 111mb (22 to 25 pouml.) to yield I I neck. 2 pieces

thyme to the pan and place in the oven for 30 to 35 minutes. Cook the

uf hr�1I1i1 (trimming the: rlh honctl 2 1nchetl (rom the eye), 2 IIhoulders. I

saddle and rack i n the saUle .....ny nnd plnce in the oven for about 1 0

IIlIddl" (lIplh nnd lit-honed), I rack (liplll). 2 1cg8. :11111 4 8hanla. 501\'e the

minutes. Cook the meat until It is medium. There

honcli for Ihe 8nucc nnd the trimnllnga (or afar u (stumn ,).

lamb. so II

Mllke n Jarcr with thelamhtrlll1ulIugs. Removc thc

r O R T lt t S A D D l l:

Sprc'lIcl lheji,rct'

TO C O M P L E T E

the irll1lde (Ihe hone side) of the IIIr1oln. plOlcc the

no fat i n a baby

It Will he lOugh. Saute the kldne), at the lasl minute (it should be cooked until JII81 p,nk).

011

cooked longer than nn older lamb, i( it IS undercooked.

IIlIvcn.kln (rolll the loin nnd lendrrioln and lieaKon the pieces of meat.

Shce all the meats. Place Ol nngof thyme�infuscd oil in

trndrrlolll o\'cr it, nnd wrap the plccell three lime8 in caul fat. Tie the

the cenler of cach pIOlIC. FIll the nngwith sauce. Place n hOlst of the lamb

plecca 10 mninlnln Ihelr IihaJle .

hreast on the sauce. Top the hreast wllh a hrOliscd clpolhm onion and

FOR

l U I:

H A C t(

Frc-nch the !JonI'8. tic the nlckll to m:lInt:un their

""/Ipt. nnd lIenlion whh linlc :wcl Jlt·ppcr. F O R TIU l U i S

Dfl/one nnt! hUllerny the leg" and mh with a mb:lUre

of minced garlic. extra vlrgin olive nil. OIJoII mUlLlard. chopped thyme, nud grny tlnlt. nrform Ihe legs ; Hul tlc them.

1911

Th. f,.",h laund,y

C o o lo. b o o lo.

Provenc;al \'cgclablcs. Arrange the other cuts of Inmb around Ihe \·c:gctahlc8. ending wilh a plcce of the kidncy. C.1rlllsh wilh thymc IC3\'C8.

" ' t U Iti O ON

,. ... COl

200

"" "' ( ( 5

2 0 U I Y l ti Ci 5

BRAISED

Six 3-ounce W1\lson d\OP1 (� Sources, page

SHALLOTS

6 sprigs thyme

Kosher soh ond freshty ground block pepper

2 loblC1poons olive oU

Cooolo oil

2 teaspoons Brunolse (poge 1 55)

BUTTERNUT

1 loblC1poorl lomato dlomancb (see poge 203)

1 bunernu! $,Quash (with a n«k at leo"

V.. cup Beurre Monte (page 135)

Kol�' IoOh and helhty ground block pepper

31 5), cui 1 V.. InchH thkk, bones frend'otd

2 large (2 ounces �ch) shollots, un�led

3 cups Chklo.rn Stock (pogo 226) or waler Canola 011

1I. wp "Quick" Venl"'" Souco 11>090 228)

SQUASH

6 lmoll pitcH crhp coolo.rd bocon 6 lprSgl Chef I

4 Inchc1 long)

like venison because l1 "s low In rat and high In protem. You ('all rmd

Scason to IUle with uh

high· quality velllson year· round. but 118 3S80CIation Wllh " litter

(lightly dOlh the ,,:ttu) to ;I. bOil ;l.nd bl.:tnch the 8tlUlHlh rounds until

hngers. so we se�'e II With autumn or "lIller vegelables 3nd rnUlI1

:lInl

pt'pper. Dring Ihe chtckt'n 810rk or Wilier

lendn. Dr;l.tn the alice8

qUll1ces. squashes. beel8, Don't cook It past medltlTll r.Ut. bec3use lhe

TO C O M P l E T (

euon the\enulon chop8 1 IeJI ' . l nch or r;lnoll1 oit i n

lean mcat draes out (llUckly.

a large he3\')' IJn\ll�

tHm. When the Oll iS hot. ;I,iII the chopfilllntl rook on

the first ,Ide for 2 t0 3 nUllutu 10 bro\, n, l11C" Jl3n .shoultl ht" hOI enough FOR THE

S H ALLOTS

Preheat Ihe oven to 350°F.

lh3t "hen )OU .hake the pan din 3hoUI 1 0 1(,(,0IUI8. Ihe chopfil 1110\'('

PloIce: the shall0l8 and thyme sprags on a square or alunllnUll1 rOll.

fred '. Don't mO\'e IIi(' chOll1 unlll tht') mo\(' on tht'lr 0\\ 11 Turn Ihe

driulc wllh the ohve 011, and enclose 111 the rOIl. Bake ror 30 nunutes. or

choJls and bra"" the .seconti 8lllc for 2 10 3 1II111111r8 for 1 I I(,lliulIl r;\re.

until the shallots arc 80rl, Pccl thc shallots. cut orr the root elld. and cut

b3stlng Ihe chops sc\'tral illnu "lIh Ihe all III I lit" p:m.

illto sm311 wedgcs. Place the 8ha1l018 1 11 ;1 slIlall saucepall. FOR THE

V E N I SO N

Loop a PICCCOr kIlChell l\\II\t' 3round the hone or

Meall" hlle. 1I13 �ecolld luge 8.3ttllo p:m. h('al l/I , nch of cunoln 011. Alill the butternut 'quash.

6Cort'tI fude do" n, a1ll1 8JUI� tllIIlI KlIghtly hro\'o lI('tI

:I \'CllIson chop Just abO\e the me�lt. "rJ I) both ends of the t" Ille around

on Ihe bottom. Tilm and conllnue cookHlK unlil the il41U3"h III ht'Jlr41

the mcat . brang them hack to the bone, 3nd tiC the t" Illcaround Ihe bone

through

to glvc n uniform shnpe to the chop. CUI off the txce66 I" Ille 3nd rept"3t wllh thc rcm3lnlngcJlops.

tihallolll anti heat througll \\'nrrn Illc \enlliOn 8nuer.

Alld the bnJIIOlse. tOlllalO tlialllolulK, ,mIl hrurr(' IIIUIIII' 10 Ihe'

CUl orrdle ncck of lhe liqu38h ;'lIHlpeclll (rc:tie�'e

PI:&C( " �poonful of\t'llIlion UUCt' on (,3ch plntt' autl lop ,,"h a rOUlul

the rem.lln1ng squash for another use). Cut SIX II: IIIch dllck rounds

or 6qu.3sh autl a \'('11I80n chup Dl\lde Ih(' tlhallot8 nlllong: Ih(' cito!,". "cI a

fOR

T U E S Q U A S ll

from the neck of the squJsh. Wllh ;l 2

to 2 11J Illch culler, cut 3 round

IHt'C(' of hacon on e3ch bOrlr. anti �unll811 Neh ,, "h n "priK or ch('I"\'I I ,

rrom each slice, Score one Side of e3ch round III ;I. dl311lond p3ltern,

Meot

t99

f'o,' .. I)OUI IlIrc'"

InOlllil", In 1 1 1 0 ",prillK l i n d ,'uri), "'UIJlnH.'r, W(O Kcot t h r"c or rOtH'

I) ..h), III.uh", II w('ck, TWU,U)"IWO 10 IWC'tlt)"th't!' Imu.H'". IIm'C'r tt!d nn)'th l n K other

thnn 'Hc)tll",'路'" .nllk. JJcCIiUNC' Iht'Y'I'," NO "1)(.'01111. W(,,\"(o CUIHPOHCd It tduJ,(lu courHt' IhHI tenlllrO" ,"'III'I()II,", pUrl" or tlw IInhnul on II ",'uuh.路 pllllC,

200

Tho F , o n c h L o u n d , y Cookbook

M O I) l

201

BATONS

O BLIQUE

CUTS

PA R I S I E H N E B A L L S

T O M AT O

Ve g e t a b l e

DIAMONDS

cuts

JULIENNE

BRUNOISE MINCE/DICE

F L U T E D O VA L

DICE

TURNED

LARGE MIREPOIX

SMALL MIREPOIX

OBLIQUE CUT

I RU N O IS E

This cut i s used o n elongated \'eget3bles such

Sm:lll dice of :lpprOllll1:lteiy I/lIt II1ch.

3S carrots and P3fSnlps, Startlng:tt the

narrow end of each \'egetable. cut a diagonal piece about

Ifs inch long. .....ith the kmfe bbde

MINC( DICE

To manu Uiling Q, manJol l llc o r sharp

pointing away from YOll at a ·15- degrce angle.

k m fe. CUI the Hgel4ble8 ,nto tilin slace•.

Roll the vcgetable a qunner turn and cut

Chop fond)'.

another piece at the same angle. Repeat the

To dlC't on onion or .hollol Pt'd :U1d cUl lhe

process until thc vegelable ..... Idens. Slice In

\'egel:lble 11l half throu ·h the root end Pl:ace

half lenf:,rth..... ise and cOlltlllue to turn and cut.

cUl lude dowll on a cutting hoard. Slice

I f the pieces become too brgc, cut

\·crtlc.1.l1

lengthwise again to keep pleccs equal 111 size.

from wuhin I

il\ II. IIlch ,lIce8. eUltlllg fOl'\\'3rd IIlCI! oflhe root end. lt':lvllig

the olllon or shallol Iniaci I\ept'al "'llh 8ATONS

hOrIt0U1:l1 slict's. CUI \'crtlcoll ,lIcu acr0811

Using a mandohnc o r sharp knife. cut

the ol1lon or shallot to form the tltee.

'A ,. I N T U I H , A n o y ( ,

thickness. Tnm 10 de81fC�:d letlb'1h. Cut

DIC[

poulhlc frolll ihe fnait or \'cgl'lllhlr,

crosswisc to form batons of 311 even

Slace b3ton8 1rlto the deSired lluckllCl8.

thickness and Width.

IC3\,ll1g the II1t'cc8 3& long 38 p05slblc. Cut

IlIlIg a lII:lmloitllc, cuI "lacC'ta lUI Ihinly 11M

vcgetables into sheels of thr: deslrcd

across Into 8'1U3fC8 10 focm Ihe dice. (TIlc PARISIENNE BALLS

dice 8ho", II here IS lit lI1eh.)

Scoop \'ery s1l1all balls uSing (I - 1 2 melon bailer

HUTlO OVAL

SCOOI) lIslng:1 OUlcd . oblong vt'gclalJlc 8COOI), T OMATO D I A M O N D S

Peel 3nti quarter a tomato. Place dan Side

TURNED

down, Clil a .....aY the IIl1enor. and trl llI lhe ribs

Cut the vegelableli 11110 plcrelJ slightly l:irgcr

to crealc an even sheet. Turn PU:CC8 o\'cr and

than the tiCblrt'd 1111.(' of the Iiill3pcd \ cge1:lhl('.

cui IIlto 1/' � l nch stnps. CUI SlrlpS on the

SIng .. paring 1.. 1 11 fe, CUI from lOp to holtom

dlO1gon:l1 11l1O (iI:1I110IllJ shapes.

10 "", Iuulc" a foot},a11 8hape

JULIENNE

M I A E PO I X n A NG E A N D S M A L L '

Trim Ihl' \'egeI3blc 1 1110 tht' dC81red lellh'1h

ut tht' \ t'/o)cl:.hlca lntfl IH(,,(,CIi of tll(" UIliC

USlJ1g a lIIandolllll'. slice: the vcgctahle Into

apprO�lInal(' 811(' Tile longcr the \'t'Hct311Icti

tilln slu:l't8 Ovcrlap the shech, to form a hlle

"'111 11(" coukell, the Iargcr Ihc JlIt'Ct'1i of

of Ihe \l'gclabll'

IIIlrcpOlx l..argt' IIlIre1'011 11i prlmanl)

form 3 J ulienne.

hlld) blaCC the Sh("t'11i to

ul\(,,11

111 block" anJ '1111311 JlllreI'O)); In tllt' J113kJI1K of b3ucr8

204

T h o r t o n ' h L a u n d , � Cook book

The

I m portance

of Rabbits

From 1 980 to 1 983, I worked i n the kitchen of a small restaurant near Catskill ,

e w York, o n a patch of the

Hudson River Valley so remote it didn't have an address. The sb: ty - scat restaurant was owne d by Rene .lnd Paulette Macary (she rem3ins its proprietor today). 1..:1 Hh'c.

1 clutched

named Ihu8 hecause i1 sat on a wide running creek. ,",'38 3 fruitful

Illbbil8 IcrC3111 :uHi tl1l8 OIlC Kcre:ullcd loudly. 'l1l�n It broke 11K Irg

training ground. and New York StOlle had extraordinary lh'cSlock.

trying 10 Kel a,,'ay. It WIK lernhle.

Bcautiful vc31 came down from Utica. I found 3 m:m ""ho r:lIsed

:It the fl�t �bhlt, I luul :1 hllrU lt me killing It. It 8crC'ttmrtl .

The next ten n.hhHII du.l n't scream :md 1 .....:l!I 'IUick ..... lIh tilc kill.

1m!

Spccl3cuIJr pigeons. I bCI,r:m 1 0 ask these farmers for unU8U31 11erna to

thou flf"il Kcrcanllng rahllli nOI only

experiment with. things lake pigs' ears, cockscomhs. duck testicles.

3180 13Ughl inC 3hout �31iIr. Ikc3UKC killi ng Iholl" r3hhUli IltHI IIcrll ",ueh

One day. J asked my r3hbll pun'eyor 10 show me ho..... 10 "all. da n.

g;:WI! IIlr a le'UOII

IU hUlchering. II

an 3wfut expcnellcc. I ..... uulll not KCl ul uHlcr them. I .... oulll \Uu� nil 111

and cvisccr:n c a rabl)lt. I had never done this. and I f1b"Urcd I f I "'38

po....'e(8 ;11'1 3 chl'( to efHiurc Ihill I hoKe rabill t" w("rc hClttlltful. 1 1 ' " very

going to cook fahbit . I should know It from its Ih'c state through the

C3SY 10 go to :1 groce ry ,;tort' alltl huy lI1e31, tlltn nccHlrl\tally I)\'ercouk it

slaughteri ng. skinning. and butchenng. and then the cookl llg, 'Ill(: bruy

and throw II 3way A cook lI:1l1l�lIlg a. r.,hblt 10111. �'orkIHK IIH' IIlIr un II

sho..... ed up with twch'C! hve rabbits. lie hll one over the head wlth :l club,

S3IUnhty flight . Q lIulllon p3tHi gOlng. piatr" WH nl{ uut lhr 111)0r. ...., IIU Illuk

knocked il out. Shl 1l8 lhroat. pinned It t o :1 board. skinned It the �hQI�

tll31 101113 lillie.- tot) r.n. tlOedu'l hrlj;lt�le. JUlil tlUlTlps lt I n lilt' gllrhUKt' AIIiI

bit, Then he lefl.

(m'li 3nother. Woult! li I al c:uuk,

1 don't know what else 1 expected. hut there I W:18 oul

In the gralSli

hehlnd the restaurant , just me and cleven cute hunnles. all of wilich �'crr

on the menu that .....eek and had to fuui thelr way 11110 n hrauil llg pan.

wfllule r. tu",,:, Irt III N IUlI'nlilln IlI flly

(rom 1 1 1:&1 10111 1I;ul he klllf'd Ihr r;ahlill h l lllself? Nu, Shnll"l " conk 6Clu:ludt'r Zlnythi llg, ('\',' r1

I t was Q tillTlplt' IrIiIiOIl.

','- n l

105

206

T h e f, e n eh L o u n d , y Coolbool

Sncldh ... or H n h h l t .

A p p lt'wUlUI"

lnnlu-d UncOil w i t h

Cn l'nll\(-U'l.t'"

Pc'nut'1 u n c i 1''''- 1 \ 11(''

011

CARAM E L I Z E D F E N N EL

RABBIT

v, cup "Qukl" Rabbi' Sauce (pogo 228)

3 fennel bulbs (about 7 OUflCC1 coch)

3 ·super" rabbit 5oOddle\ (� SouIte1. pogc 3 1 5)

Fcnncl 0'" (pooo

2 �prigs thyme

18 thin �w bocon. Pfl!feroWy applowood.

6 lprigl iermcl

2 pfeces �tor onls.<!

1 66). In a �l" bolll0

smoI<ed

1 lcospoon fennel seeds

K.oshct K)1t and frnhty oround b&ock pcppet

I boy leof

Canolo 011

II,. cup kosher solt Conolo oU

love using rabbit. ",llIeh we get frolll co op� in Oregon, It 13stes

O\('rl3ppln� thrm "0 Iht') form 3 rrCI"II�lr 3S \\ IIle :'ll\ IlIt' Irll�lh tlf nllt"

lIelther like chicken lIor like wilt! h:m:. I t ·s mOlln and IIIcrrtllbl

10111. 1\I' I I(';lt to III[I\." I'" U IllUrl" rt'l'I,lllglt'I\. S":IIUlII ('artl l 'lt'('r II f IUrat. lay

tender. It 's like fish III that U '8 a good \' cIltcic for ta5t('8, lIere 11 carnC'K

It 3ero�" Ihe hacoll "hct'I\, anti fl)lI the r,IlI11I1 IUIII " I' III Iht' hac·ol1. TIC'

(,3eh c liluiu "' llh h\lldlC�r'K 1\\ 111(' al

the b:acon and fennel navors beaullfully,

lIlel! 1111('1"\,.18.

" lIh a klllfr 10 rdt'ase thr (JI alltl r('\ral thr t'wl u( Iht' hon('"

has a tendency 10 hecome mealy If II regts, 100 long, For thll' rcclpe, WC' do nOI use the Il!b"ti. O'Arlng-nan sdls ",hat they

fun.,; «

to .... .·1 to gnp 11Ir (Oil. )lull tl ah,') frum Ihr hOIl" " In Ont' plt'C(' Trim a\\ay any rt'3l11nllUng fat Srl"oll lhe lUt'al \\lIh K311 ,lIu1 1't'P I'('r,

call a "super" baddle, the fiaddle \\ith the nlltt altncilt::ti, IIlclu�I'ng the kidney the three Ilarts of the rahbil you ' ll need for thul (ltsh.

O M f'l I I r,ll "hUIII I,. 111(," of call1l!'' uti i n II Iflrgl'

T O C O O l( T lt f F O R T H E CARAM E L I Z E D f E H N E L

l/.

To f"'II('h Iht, hUlu-Iwflh" rabhll r;w\.M, I\erolpl' Ih(' rllll"" fth,· hOllrl'

Servc rahln! no more than f"'l' to ten Olmulc:8 afler (:ooklllg II, lUi II

S�III('1 ()\rr IIIe-dIlIlU 11I�h hl',ll Sault' tht' KiU lllll'/'I. roll\lIg Ihc'lIl "rullIllI

Tnru tlll' lops ;ulIl rool t'lItis from

Ihe fellnel hulLs and cut a n X 11110 Ihe root end of each. Plact' tlu' f�lIl1d

froll1 lll11r 10 111Il" . (or;lhoIl1 5 1IIIIIIItl·". nrlllllll lht' IIfC' " \1'111' hro" lIe'd.

II) a pot. cover .... lIh cold ""ater, and add the rl'IIHIIIHlIg II1�rt·thrfllK

Tr.tn�fc·r l hl'1II 10 it h,lklllg p.lIllllUI pl.III· IIl IIt,· m,'1t for alillul 5 11111lUleK,

excepl the 011. Bnng the .... ,'ltcr 10 n h011. eewer Ihe pOl. and 611llntcr (or

nr IIl1tll ('0,,\.,·,1 10 1I1l',IIIIII1, '" h11., �I)U fllllKll Ih,' ,11,,11,

ahout 15 Illinutes, or until ihe fellnd Ill lenticr 10 Ihl' con' .... he·1l 11:81('11

When Ihl' fennel hulhs ,If(' cold. cut

2 {'('nlc'r c.'ut gli('t's, ailoul

II: Inch cacho from ('aeh hulh. FOR

THE

R.A

OIT

I'our off an) har'HI fal fj'lIm I III IIH 1I1 111C' "L.IIII'1 fillli IlIhl llir r,l('k" III thr "'�11It'1

with .. klllfe, J)ralll lhc� f('lInd nTHI rc:fngc.' r;llc,

;1\111' tll" II1, IItnung III hrhwlI UII .111 "Ull'b. 1111111 IllC'y .trl·

cooLl"ci lo IIU,tllUlII, 'S 11) " 1I1111111c'" Dunng tilt·

HemO\t' Ihc kldllc' .s ;:Jlld pee:! off 11Il' OIlIC'r

St'parall' Iht' racks (rolJl lhe 8.ltltlleti. "lIl ll'a\!' III(' 1a�1 nb ,1113dlt�d

hltcr"

allli ",IUle' 1111'111 1I1l1l1 lilt,,. ,1ft' Kllghtly l'OIr,III1«.'1I,,',1.

,IhoUI 2 1111111111;'11: )ll'r blllt'

to Ihe haddle·. Utilllg �1t('h('11 "hl'an. or .1 bharp hC';:J\) �l1If,', -'ifllli l·.:I('h

\X',lnll tilt' ".II1C','

rack Icnglh.... uil· I U halflO forlll t"'o 1I1t1a\!dual r.I(,�foI

CUI " ,lell b:Ilt.1I(' ,l Iul

Tn 1I0Il(' Ihl' "acldlc's, 'uit· .I hlt.trp 1>01\11110: �r\lfc' ,ifill n'lIlU\t' lllI' IClln� ancl lt'ndnlolllti, TnIII III(' nJ I II; cnall�lf) .IIUrlu',1 1t1 thl' It.lddlc· lu I Irlch S" 38on IIII' ")11110 ;illll lt'llCll'rlOllIs '" lilt h,tll rUlil llC'P I','r ,111,1 (C'pl.1t I"

lilt' h'llIll'rlulnJi nl) C.IC'l1 IOIll I-nld llw n.1J11O .JrUUIUI IIIl' IIll',lt W furlll

111111111" of ,·lIul IIlK.

Ml',ln",llIlc', IIr:\l I . III1.' h uf (';111111.1 ctll I n " Iir('OlUl lar�I' K\ollrl , Adel thr fe'lIn('1

nll'rnlJraneR. S('t aSICI,'.

.... ,tit'

!rUi!

aelll III" L.ul lll'l'" ,,1111 K;,UI" hrll·n

r.wL. 11111) 1�II IHt'('I''' ' CUI ra('h lltllll'y IIl lmlf

StIUrrlf.: i-I nnguf "'nnrl U1l cHlIU ('MiI plnlt' ,11111 "' IHllIlI llll' 'HIIIl'l' I IIIU

Ihr' 1'lIh'r au (lil liit' nllgli. L" I"" r a bllc'c' uf f" IIIH'1 "" tilt, "'JUl'" Ar(lUl�I' " JII" ('I' flf h,lIlcll" , r,n � • .11111 kill III')' lm lU I" .11111 K,l rrtl"h ('al'lt l 'unHIlI of rahhlt '" IIh . fl'l1I,,'1 ri)lnK

l'UlIl l'a('1 (') h lll!c'r /\rfllllJ.l:l· (, ;;liu·ti uf baLUIi fill ,I "" Irk burf,l I"',

M e ll i

:107

20a

T h o r , Cl n c h l (l u n d t � Coo�lIoo�

The

I mportance

of Offal

Roland Henin taught me how to cook tripe. This was another critical step for me. At L, Rive. I had become interested in offal. the innards that were in abundance in the nlral Hudson

alley in the early 1 9808-

brains. kid neys. 11\'t'f. tcstlcles. 810m:lch. lUll!,"" TIle O"' llerti of I., Hi"t". who wcre French. loved arral because In fr:mcc It 18 cookC'd bC�IlIHrull)'.

btlullt'C1 for IIUlklll� ll lllllnn�('. ou' l't" 1t't'S II lr:elY l u In�('('h,'lll,(," "IUI IO Irarll,

but it W38 rarely used In Amencan rcslaur.mh\ at the l illie.

Onct' OU\t' tlclt' rllllllt'li not 1 0

Not long "fter I arrh'cd at 1..0. Hive. lIenm hq;:m I(:ach lng ;11 the

""111(' orral. ou II1\1!U It'<lm 1 0 cook II,

0(1(,11. Ih('lit' U(,III" an· ,undl ',('01Il1H>8t"11 o( flbroull

crn", or h,,\l" nn o\'t'rl .

Culin:u)' Institute of Amenc3, an hour sOlull of where I "38 fie \'1811t'd

1)()"'t'rfuI 13tUt'. :l1I of '"Ilich III\I!U hl" at'coulut'tl (or In I h(" ('oolallN: proce""

me occasionally on \\cckcnds. and e\'cry now :Hld then I 'll sli m on Olle-

\\ Ilh tnpt'. Iht' hlOmach uf"

of )118 classes. When I couldn'l f1b"Urc sO Illt'l h mg oul. or the food IluJn',

IlIn(', ",('raJ"n� II anti r1(,31H1I� II. Ulltli ll hall 110 odur, IUcmllraltC',

behave the \\3)' 1 thought it "ould. I could 38k lIe ll m . because he .... 38

'11('11 )011

nlllllu:1I11 :\1\111131 . UII I1IIIIII ,,:lith II fur n lung

tihoultl ('OO� II III

ur (nl.

Ia rnl 111 .. P:H'�("tI pOI. tttur(l tIjot 1'1(' 111

r i ght there. It W;18 at

L., !\I\'C I hal

I It'lun ta ught lilt: t hat the Inl(� test of:1 chd 18

I hrollj.jhoUI . ami )OU I11l1-.1 ('>ook II �(,1I11)', for a lonN: I l lI1r

h'g t':asy to ('uok "

how well hc c:ttl cook orfal. Because o( the killing o( the rabLutR, I kllt'w I ha l 10 waSle <lnylillng was aboul a8 clORC

1 0 lun

fllrl IIl1gll0ll, or 10 ,,"utf II pint' uf Ire",,, tlC'I'\'I' it

as a chd gel8,

FlIr1hermore. having (;uled 10 learn 10 truss " clllckt'n t'arly CJlou�h , 1 tlad not "'anI to fall shor1 III (:1IIIng to learn 10 coo� orr:ll. At 1.. 1 Ih\C�, I cooked a lon ' and could then'fore 1I1:lke 1Il11i1:lkt'ti

w l l holl l bt'llig

H O W

T O

C O O l(

T R I P E

The flrbl thing to do "'lIh tnp" 18 to cll'au II

tnp,. Pac k Ihl' tnl'f" do\'lu to ('olllpr("I'i" 1I I I h r

I ho roughly by nllRIIIg II ",ell :ultl licrOlpulg orr

P!l{,�l Il g Hi cnlll'.11 111 nil\t}rlllg Ihr' trlpl' ('\1'111 '

pn'I):lrOlllulI hrcolllrii nlIlH.." lib, a hlnlll l llj'th·, Ih·IIlU\'(· ,hr COll kt,. 1 trlpr fmm Ilir clwklng

CXCCli8 JIlcmhram', When It hali hl'l'" ",ell

throughoul Co\t'r ,IIf' t rl pl' "'1111 ",hilI' '" 11Ir'

11I11I1lI, l'ilr.lln lilt' 1I1)llIcl. n'tllu'l' lI, nt ltl liolllt'

cJc:lIl1'tl, II Will ha\'(' \'('1)' lillie udur.

hnolil' a

"nti \ ('a l filO(,�

011 hluHllcln ' 1 fIt'I'll 'III,,'h 111 1"111

('rr.lln, tlrJlill1l iI. ,11111 at l tl it IlI tl,' 1lIlIlit.ml . CUI

COO�1I1g \ ('slid Ih:11 IS b rnall t'nOuKh 10 . 110\'1 )UU

I f ) OIl\ " I 'Jt l.. t'ci ll \'It'll nnll� 11",. 111 .1 III fIllII("r

I hl· t n l't:' ullo PIJrtllI1I Iillc·tl li' lu,m·Ii, rc·turll It

10 makl' man) lil)('"' f I ( I rlfle La rr pIC'IIIY of

fllI lllC' hlll\(' lOp, ""'11 t:O\,.r 1I 11�11I1 Jlld pbl'"

I f J Iile' KallC'''. alltl lWf\r \'I I lh Ihr \ " W'I"IIlr" nllli

:lrom:IlIC \'cgl'lahll,g ht'I"'Ct'O lhe 13 rn. of

II III a Z7so 1 O\l'n for .ll !r'llli � Iwurh ( 1 \ r

\'I lilt ! lo utH eli It'll Irrnflc

tnpt'

carrOIR, 011 Ions. Korn,' p:lrblt,) If 011

\'Ilbh, .lnll llIrlllJl. � 1 1 I{' h mldtl.1 f!:\'Irl'llIrhll tu Ih,'

"r\t'r IIren .I},lr 10 I)\rrcoo� t n Jll') I fir gJmllih, ilr;allU' MJIIW OIllCJlUi, glJ/t liurnr rarroht liar

"'_01

20"1

" L I V E R

A N D

O N I O N S "

R u t l l lwd C n J f'H Li ve·,', VhJ u J i n n n d Jle(j O n t o n Con f l l . O n 1 0 1 1 H i ngs, n n d V l n cgol' Snuco

LIVE R

R E D W I N E VINEGAR SAUCE

Kosher solt

2 to�cspoons conolo 011

1 cup sliced bolton mUUlrooms

F,eshly oround block pepper

'11 cup sliced swoot bonch couots

12 red pearl onions, peeled and on

'oo'poon hooey

6 coif's liver steaks, cut I Inch t ick

X cut

(3 10 3112 ounces each) Flour for dusting

Into tnc ,oot onds

'11 cup sliced .holfots

8 sprigs italian parsley

1 2 ...mIte pearl anlotn, peeled and on X cut

2 .prlg. 'hyme

1 cup red wino "'ncoor

I teaspoon WOOr

4 cups Veol S'ock (pooo 222), hee,ed

ONION RINGS

OHIOHS

Conol. 011 I", deep-I""ng

2 cups sliced rcd onions

lJ.e cup plus 2 loblespoons Temporo Bone' Mix

2 toblmpoc>ns ( I ounco) �us

'I.. cup sporid1no water Twelve '/:.Inch slices Vidalia or Maul onlon

ht K i s your elIH",ic t.lue:plDlt' sJlcclal . l likr to cook th e

ca f l\' l sl

c r jill

a ",ur'uk," rat h " r t han In I hl n tl licClJ, 110 t lint I have hel ler control

over tllf" cO kl llK Jlit:e,' o( /Ileal

anrl 1 can IIchI eve VllrlOU8 t l!

xlU

res ;uul n avorH i n one

flU' IWIlre d crulll, t ht' medi um huerlor, and t he rnre

iic U

Sumrler t he sauce unll l i t IS rcd uced to 3hout I cup. Stra in t he saucc t h rough 3 e lllriOIS (sCC page 13) il1to;1 snuecpal1 and sci aSide. f 0 A TH [ 0 N I O N S

Preh a t t hc O\'CII to 300°f'.

Pl ace I he sli ced red ilnd whi te on i ons j n two SCpar.1IC ovenproof

. 11 1 I wu:: t h ree

Ii:lucepans. Cover the onions w i th cold w:ller an d bri nglo 3 boil . As sao"

,1I((cn'lll flll i on Ilrt'I'nrnt i OJl8 c cnmy IIlow ('ook" d omont', "i::Iled

OIs t he water bOi l s. d r:lln t he oni ons i n 8tr3 incr8 ( keepi ng t hem separa te)

oll i oJlII, nnrl crunc hy on i oll ri ngii i n 1" III1wfil hatler result i ng III

and (lnse und er cold runn ing waler, I hen repeat the process. (This

,1f ((crclIl ll'xturt'lI nllt ! vM'yi ng level " o( H\\oI!t!trlt'lU',

hlilllchi ng wl l l sweclen t he onions and ellml1l3tc e ccss aCid . )

CC llIl'r, On i on" nnrl i lwr :art' n \\o'ell known Jlair, o( cour

Dr,'ln th e Oluon8, squee

rou

THt

Rl:O

W i tH

VI N E GAR SAU C(

IIlIlICelHlJl ov,'r IIlrdllllll hiKh hl'1I1 .'HId Hau l

I f,1 le poon o( hUlltr find a li tt le sait In cOieh. lIeat Ihe OntOI1S 011 the

I IIC' ll1ullh rooll1H. (',1rrOlIi.

stovc top t o me l t t he hutler, t hen covcr each pall wi th ;t p rch mcnt l a d

i l lf

I hyn\(' a nd cuntl nut' cookmg (or 2 1I1111111("Ii, or UIIII I the VC:KClilh �R enr.1lIl("II ,., . Arid f i ll' vi u("gar Mul "mlnlc'r (or ahoul 20 !lUlltltCIi. or Ultll l I h(" p,m

l" nl ,I01I1 dry,

i l{ el l c

Slrl1 i n I he h OI "IOrk ovrr t he ""'Kt'lnhlcH, ( J catl ll

b ll

dry. 3nd return t hem to I hc pails. Place

" " .'11 t he of) i n a Inc.-Ilium

1lIlI l lI hn ll nllf. IIl i rrl llg o('c:,lIlolI:1I1)', (or 2 m llll l ' . Allll lhc p:l(lIl t,), nnd

(sce page 1 90) nd place 111 t he oven for I hour. o r u lltil so(1. Hemove t he Jlans (rom tile oven and Sllr t h e h Olley an d some pepper

l l ii

11110 t he wh ile 0I1101lS. Set bot h I)ans or O l on asuie. M t"iln" hil t·, tranl t he pcarl 01110nll OIS necessafY so t hat t h 'y a re

I he: HIOCk he fore

IJIlI(orm III

l i

iun' and w l cook evenly, Place I hem In two 8eJ ara e 8mall

It W rclllril 10 n hull ilion' qu ickly. "'hiell III turn kC('I)1I

lIauccJlalili. Ad ! I Clip o( "'O ler, I/: te:llipOOn o( t he rellla i n i ng h utter, and

t i t" (at (rolll ('"UIIRi(ylnK l u t hc cold l i uu and cr aleH n d t!arcr slluee.)

Ij, tetu�pooll or I h e sugar 10 c3ch p:1n o( onions, The WOlter li houl tl Just

1111 ,1 1 111{ it llo","

210

( I ou e) unsolted buller

('oclpo loll"",)

I teaspoon

unsoiled buller

hy nc

Kosher soil and fres l ground block pepper 2 tablespoons

Into lho root ends

2 cup, sllcod Vidalia or Maul onions

Conolo 011

T h o Fronch L a u n d r y

Coo,,"lIoo,,"

(o\'er the onions, Bring the water to a simmer ;md cook O\'U lU('dium heat for 20 to

25 minutes. or until the water has c\'a"of3ted and the

onions are tender 3nd glucd hut not hrowned. TO C O M P L l T E : For the onion rings. heat oil for dccp· frying to 325°F.

in 3 sm311 deep pOl. Mix the tempura mix with the sp:ukling w3ter. Add 3n ice cube to the h311er to keep it cold. Oil' a few of Ihe rings into the batter. carefully adll them to the hOI oil. 3nd fry for " to 5 minutes. or until golden hro.....n and crisl', l\emo\'C� to paper lowcl8 to drain. Repeat with the remaining onion rinb'll, Meanwhile. rehcal the cooked whilc. recl. 31111 Jlurl onions and the 8auce. F O R T H [ LIV[ R

I leal lit inch of canola oil in a large tikillet o\'er high

hca1. DU8t lhe Ih'cr with nour and Ke3son with 8alt and I'er ller. Add the liver to Ihe pan ami reduce the lIe31 10 medium. Cook for

,1 to 5 minutes.

turning and scaring on all sides. until the liver fecls tiOrne""'h31 firm 10 the loueh. like 3 sleak cooked to medium. Drain the paper towel•• place

th'u brieny on

I te3spoon of hutler on e3ch piece. allowing it to

melt over the liver. Spoon some sauce into the cenler of cach 8('I'\'ino: dish. Arr;mge 8111311 mounds of the red 3ml white sliced onions side by side in the ceOler ofthc sauce, Top Ihe onions with Iht Ih'er aJIIl sprinkle wilh Ihe chopped chh'cs. Garnish cach piece ""'hh two cach of the red 3nd ",,·Iute pearl onions and Iwo onion riob'S' .. . . I S 6 U I Y I H 6 S

TEMPURA

MIX

J/" cup cornslOfch

2 1C'<npoons boling �o

3 cups coke flour

I ICO\pootl kmhcr solt

Comhine 311 1hc ingredienls, 510re indefinitely in 3n airllglll cont3iner. Mix Ihe hailer when needed in proport ions of 3 paris tcmpnra mix 10 2 Jlarls sparkling w3ler. This hatter can be used ""'llh 3 \'ariety of \,q;elahles alld tU'�3food.

IlOIlHlCd SW(!Cl b " f! n d ", w i t h A p p l cwood·S rl1o J(cd S n e o n . B,'nJHcd J 3 c l g l n n g n d l vf!. n n d

J31n cl( 'J'J' u rr l c

So lice

SWEETBREADS

2 frosh boy Ieovc> or

I '12 pounds liweotbreods

'IA cup dry vetmouth

Jf, CUp Veol Siock (poge 222)

Conalo 011

4 cups cold Whll. Veol Siock (poge 223),

1 loblespoon chopped block lruffle

Kmher ",II ond Ir..hly oround

block pepper

'/A CUp carrot, cut Into 112·lnch mlropoh' (... pog. 203)

cut Into I/�Inch mlrepolx (see poge 203)

J/", cup onlons cut InlO 'h /nth m/rcpolx ·

dried boy leof

TRUffL£ SAUCE

Chld«n Siock (pog. 226), or woter Ave to six

'f, cup ""'k> (whiiO ond light o,een pons only)

(from a whole truffle. pJcces, or peelings)

V.. lnch thlck slices slob bocon, frozen ·

Few drops of while wine vinegar

If.. cup canota 011

1 lcospoon white lruffle 011

.4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsolted buner

Kosher soli and freshly ground block pepper

BRAI S E D E N DIVE

TRUFFLE GAR N I S H

6 Belglon endive ( I Inch 10 1 '17 Inchos In dlomcter)

30 Ihln slices block truffle (from a 1 - to

Kosher soh

I 'll-ounce Iruffle)

8 ,prigs lIollon por,IO)'

Conolo 011

III lcospoon minced chives

4 spriO' Ihymo

3 10 4 cups O,le""n Siock (poge 226)

(se. poo. 203)

Few drops of white truffle all Gray solt to toste

wcclhrcndK have a wonderful leXlUr ' and :l l1avor that's almost

HC:lt 'I. inch o fo i l in a large deep heavy 8aut6 pan. Lightlyscason t h e

IIculral, 80 you eim Jllay whh n lol of garnishes. Here it 's l3rded with

8weetbreads w i t h salt a n d pepper and place t h e m smooth side down in

hacon. 10 fllfUlH� the m�at wilh th31 113vor. and JlOllred with tmrne8 and

the hot oil. 5aut6 the picces for ahouI 5 minutes, or until they arc golden

Hlow..cookcd cndlve:.

brown. Turn them and cook roran addiliona1 2 minutes. Pourorfhalrthe

10 Ihrcc·dny proccslh IheKc arc

fat from the Jl3n. Add the vegetahles. parsley, thyme, and hay lenves,

Honked and then hlnnched in W.1ter, Ihen cle.1I1cd. braiKed In Ktock, OInd

immediately pour in the vermouth and stock. and bring to a simmer.

finnlly 8.1l1t�cd. SweethreadH come In two parla. TIle "hearl- Iohe. or lOp

Simmer for 5 minutes.

PreparIllg liwcelhreacJ" iii a two ..

(lIoiz, or "nut: in French), has

01 thin layer or

Ilcmove the sweetbreads from Ihe cooking liquid and strain the

lU1i1 very lIttle Hlne�·. 'na: "thronl" loht, or hallam part

liquid into a tall narrow contniner, discarding the solids (or use them in

(HO'1{f!) Iii mode up of two pieces. �'ith marc membrane .. ntl sinew. I f

a slock). Let the cooking liquid sit ror 5 to 6 minutes to allow the rOll 10

rounded portion mcmhrane

J)oJlfllhlc, JI,lI.:clfy "heart" KweethrcadK to your hutchcr. though Ihe recipe

risc to the lOp. Hemovc the fat. rcturn the sweetbreads to the liquid, and

clm he nUllle usfnH hnth l:ctlo'lIl. u

refrigerate until rcady to finish the dish, or up to 2 days.

FOR TH( f O R TItE S W [ I! T II A ( AO S

Soak the sweclhre.1d" in water 10 coycr forat

E H D I V E ; If the endives are thicker than ) liz

inches, remove enough outer leaves to reduce them to thaI sh.c. Cut off

IcaRt (, hOllrs, or overnight, chnllgi ngthc �'3Irrnt Icast two or lhrce IlrneR.

the hottom of each endive so that it will stand uprighl. Cut out and

Fill tl lnrge pot with lightly IInlled wah'r nnd hring 10 :. hoil (using ..

remo\'c the cOl1icnl core from the root end of each. following the shape

In rgt volume or Witter will help 10 n1:.intnln Ihe holl when the

of the endive flO that the walls of the endive will be about Ihe same

KwccthrClulK nrc' mlele·d). Add thc� Hwccthrc.'IIllI, rl·duce the heat Hlightly,

thickness and the cndi\'C8 will cook evcnly. Pack the inside or cach

nnd Kimmer for 2 mlnutell. Drain Ihc awcc·t hrcadli, plncc them in icc

endivc with kosher salt. sprinkle a liltle additional salt over the outside.

wnter to cool, nnd Ilr;lln ngnln, HClllove any eXCCIUI memhrane or fnt from

and .Hand them up on a tray. Let thcm sit for 30 minutcs. then rinse

the 8wccthrrndtl. PIllec thrJl1 on n

10"',,1 lined h:lking Ilheet nnll cO\'cr

wilh nnothtr towel, nnother hnking IIheer, and n light weight. The Hwcclhrcndfl KhouM corupreliK to nhout

'I, inch thick hut IIh01lld not he

Hc:vercly l1at lenecl. ncrriger:ltc O\·ernight.

212

BRAISED

T h o F ,.,nch L a u n d r y CooUook

thelll to remove the lIall. Ileal

II, Inch or oil in a pot large cnough 10 hold the endive in one

layer. Add the endive and lightly brown on all Bides. Add chicken stock 10 cover, COver wilh a parchmcnt lid (flCC page J 90), and simmer for :·W

to 40 minutes. or unlil lhe endh'c is ruUy cooked. Set aaide In the liquid until ready to serve, FOR

THE

TRUFFLE

1Ic:"t SAUCE

ComlJlne the \'cal stock, (romC'•. and

I'rdlC.1l lhe o\'t'1I10 350°F. brgc: o\'enproor likillct o\cr medium ht':ll. "thl the 1/, cup

TO COM'l[T( a

canol::. 011. ICI II hC31 slightly. ;1.0.1 tht'n "dd the hUller. When the rilt

vinegar i n it small silucepan (you shouldn't taSle thevlncgafl use il allYou

hegina buhbHng. add Ihe: liwc:elhrt'Dtia. roullllt'r "hit "0\'1'11. '0 Ihe IHUl.

would use salt to enhance the OIher navors). Heduce the uuce ror 3 to 4

Cook (or 3 minute, or unlll Ih

mi nutes. or until II c03t8 the b:lck or:l spoon. Rcmovc (rom the hC:I1.

duker bro",,, b3con (:11 \\'111 add color 10 tht' rllli"'ICU .\\crtilread8.)

T O C O O K T H [ SW [ [ T ll R E A O S

Cut the (rolen b3con lOl054 lardol1s,

UIiIf1K

h3('01\ bc:g1ll1i re1calll1K lis r,,1. (The

'I)oon. bute the .,",rclbrt":uls \\lIh thc: rlU (or " IIllJ1utC or KO.

or strips. about 3 incht:s long by 1/, inch wide (il lS C:lSlcr to cut h3con

until the 101)8 h,,\'e: a lillie: color. Pilice tilt' unco\'ercd I'lln In Iht' o\'rl1 nntl

while it is (ro7.en). Place them In a saucepan. coverwllh cold water, 3nd

cook ror 1 0 10 I S milllltn. h3HIIIIS IIlr lI,",eelbrczul" oCU.IOlllllly with the

bring 10 a 11011. I mmedl3u:ly (I rain Ihe Tardons ln a IHraincr 311(1 rmac

rc:nllered fat. Arl('rthr (Ion 5 minutell. turn the sW('('lbreads o\'l:'r.

wllh cold waler, (TillS qUIck blanclun ' proccss removes uce .. saltiness and keeps Ihe lardons (rom shrinking txCC881\'ely whcn they

I\cmo\'e the endive (rolll tht· cookll1g litillid ,,"ci cut e"ch endive

arc cooked.) Trim the sweetbreads 11110 G hrlck shapes OlpJlrOXI I1I3tely 2 inches by 3 inches. (5:1\'(: the tnmnllngs ror 3nother UIiC, such as a

Mean,", hlle. 111 a smatl 1.0'"'1. 10118 Ihe trome lj3rnlllh IIlKrcllicnl" together.

foret.

sturrlng.) Usc a larding needle to IJlscrt thc lanion8 11110 the sweetbreads. (rom top to bottom. It:a\'lng e'lual "pacc (3hout I/, Inch) betwccn c.1ch lardon: UIiC 9 1ardon8 pcr sweelhrcad. Tnm the ('nds or tht: lardons with SCISbors. Ica\'ing II; Inch 10 V.. Inch al each end (I( )OU do

lenbrthwllie III hair. relurn them 10 Ihe J13n. ami heal. One endive 01 n IIIne. renlO\'C IItHh 1131\(·, ami IJ r.11 11 orr any ('XCCIII lU lUill . O\'crlnp and I'" llit thc hah t'S 3foUIHI ),our (Inger to rorm Il lurlJlIO shape. lteh(,3t Ihe alwee :llId litlr In Ihe lname 011. Seaaon to t.1lue with IInll alld JleJlJlt'r Place 3 bpoonrlll or Inlm lauce In the center o( ("ach I.lutl!. I'lncc on hlOl rXCc:'lli

not havc :l l;mImlj needle. the I:lrdons c,an he addtd 10 the 8klllet and

eru!t\l! '"turh:m'" III c.·:lth pool o( Ii uce, UKe '" p;'ller lu",'r1

cooked wllh the Ii\'l ('cthreads.) 5t'a!lon hOlh Hldcs o(lhe h\'ltelhreatlli \'I I1h

(;11 (rom the K",celhr(';ub ;,rul plilte one on (,3ch turhllll S'D k 5 Klicrll or

salt ilnd JlcJlJlcr.

trome on ellch K""t't'llIrt'311.

Meol

213

" H E A D

T O

T O E "

Plg'H Bond u n d Plg'H FeeL

heBe two flcparalc prepa ra t fons are bodl elabora te and c.1ch is

B...ise Ihe 10nb'Ue:ls you would veal tongue (sce PJge 1 1 2).

enormously ":'llefrlng in its own way. nle finl U8es the Iwcculent

Arr:lnge batons of cooked tonb'Ue. sweetbreJds, nnd diced pig's car

(:1111 meal in 3 pig'" hc.:ad. wrilpped around cooked pig's longue. pig's

overthe mC;II. HolI .he head in plast ic wrap to shape il (asyou would the

tar, :Incl flweethrcads, roHed Ilgh l ly Inlo 3 cyJ i ndtr. an d oven - poached

till d:.y. After It's cooled. it's KUced Into mccblllons. 83UI�cd. and served

IOrclion; scc page 107), then remove the piece. roll it, and tic il in cheeseclo th. Placc thc p ig's head I n :l pot, cove.r with slOck (chicke n or

with 11 grJ hi chc sauce. The pig'8 (DOl. or Iroller, a cbs8ic I�rench counuy

white veal), and add aromatics (carrols, onions. leeks, bay Icaves , thyme

prepll r:ulon , III alISo 81uffed ;tnd cooked over an extended period .

sprigs. and parsley stems). Co\'er Ihe pO I in (oil and place in a 300°F. oven for 6 hours.

BRAISED

STU f F E D

Dram the cooked meal. rewral' it in cheesccloth. and hang it for

PIG'S HEAD

WITH SAUCE GRlllCHf

1 day i n Ihe cooler.

Slice the pig's hcad Into medallions. Bnlsh wit h Dijon mustard . CUI offill,. ,'arll an d r<::8CNr. Splil lhc skin :lnd meal down the ccnler o(

dredge 111 frcsh bread crumbs, ancl8aut� the pi eces in all. Scn'c on a bcd

the he.lIl. !lrglnnlnga! the lOp and wo rkl nga roun tl l hc HUOU! and 10 the

of the gribiche sauce. garni shed With ch opped egg wh i t c and a hai\'ed egg

IUick of tht hC'lHl 1O 8J1111 Iht' skull down lilt' middle. Then. hcgl1lning

yolk of a hard hOI led phCaSaJ11 egg and frcsh larragon.

Oil one "Idc' of tht' helld. fIIn the knl ft' a lo ng the com our of the head. followillK" the ho ut' IItructun:, to rt'JOovt' the IIkin and the attached

ntlocht'e! I II tile skin. (1ollow the line from the jll whon e 10 the snout.

I I/] tcospoons finely minced copers

HCJlt'1I1 on the otilt'r tlide. Ht'move the tOllb'1lt! lind Het II allide.

I.laY oul til t' p lc·cc o( pig. sklll liide clown . At Ih ' hack o( Ihe l Op of Iht' ht'tul III B nlll' of mf'al tll :1 I Iii \'f'ry fally. Trim off Ihe fat unlil you rt'l1ch Ihe lI1el1l. Hun II km(,. alo ng Ihe Skill and rrOlove th e skin from

heapfng 10bl�poon finely minced shallots

I '/] tco)poons finely minced cornlchon

Cfz tcospoon

Oilon mustord

1 tabl�poon Bonyuls vinegor or sherry, while wine, or red wine vinegor 1/. cup elflto virgin olive 011

the Ult'flt 111111 r,·ntllinillK f:1I (much all YOII would IIkl n :J fllill flllt'I). You

I heaplng 10bl�poon finely chopped hord·bolled egg while

elHl roll uJI Ihr "ki n alltl tlt' fi lII a 'JIIlldlel if adds a /{fral deal of gd il l l ll

I tablespoon finely chopped hard·bolled egg yolk

if ndd,·d

10 Hlock". TrOll away ;ulIl cJ i c;ml tilt' ('XCe'HH hils of skin, the

'I. teaspoon finely minced torrogon

K"IIlS, nnel tilt' ellr {','HlOI . Trim of( lilt· 1Of' of Ihl' (at unlll only tht' vrry

I tcmpoon fInely mInced hollon parllcy

whitt· fnl rcrnnf nll , Scorr' tht' fnl In a cro8t1hatch pattern. Tflln the t!xeeHH fat frolll lilt, IIIHldr. BUlI,' rny thc' II 11'1lf of tilt' cheek anel

liz Icmpoon finely minced chEves

crOHHhol('h lilt! 11lI1'rior. l'ouJlel ll1f' IlJecf' nn l 0I11e1 IWnH(Jn wil h 8:111 and JlcPJlt' r, Die'l! 80JIIl' uf 11u- l"g'R Nlr nnel �t't "Hicle.

21"

SAUCE GRIBICHE

meAt. Be CII(f'ful w rtmOVe Ihe p iece of meat 011 the te lll pl e . hchind t he t:!)'t. flnu lind then IIU! cJ lf'cklil you wlHll these JlIt:ce8 o( meat 10 Slay

The rr.nd l

L a u n d r y CooUool.

Foa TH( fARCl

OIC�C:

dornC' ""eC'tb�iult' ;uul llC':umn them. Or("dgc

nlis wonderrul sauce wlll sero'c rour. TIlc Ingredlcl11ll lll thC! SJucc h:a\'c �

them lit nOllr JIIlI cook '" I.', lIIeh of hOI ml in � ronde3u until lhey nrc

high degree of 3Cld. 80 the proponiOIl of 011 is lllgher th:m usu:al.

cnspy ;tud (o;ohiclI hro\o'l11 Dnlln Ihe d\o\ C'C'llJrt'3ll" 3nd WlpC out Ih(' pot. J\dd 50llle ciuel.:cl\ litock (1"1('(" tit(" \01\111\(" of 8,,'C'cIUrNdd) . Bflng th('

Place all the inbrrcdients in 3 mixing howl :and 811r together. nle 83uce

httlud 10 3 bOIl ;lIHI :uhl the 11\0'1 c("lhre:uls. 11011\(" mlncC'tl ,,'mUots. it few

c.:In be rcCri 'crated in a cm'end contillner ror :1 re,,' d3)'8.

tlrOI)1I Or"hlle " I ne \'j nC'�ar. tlud 80ll\e lmtter.

.. . .. u . ' 0 1,1 '

'/1

CU.

Sltntll("r to reduce Ihe hqulll unlll It Ihicl.:t'nt' 3tHi

e01t1t'

Ih('

"\o'IC't'thrt'.1tli. AIM .:I \(,�l'l"hl(' IJnIIl01l\('. Imm(' dIOPIH�d chl\'t' •• ",ml lhe PIG'S

FEET

WITH

FRENCH

GREEN

LENTILS

rt'tiCI"\ rd Illcal. ( I flhe 113t1Ce h("Klltli 10 brt"3k. :ul,l mort' IIlock.) I f lIrtllrrll. f"utih "lIh ")lIle Inlrnt' 01) Tr.UllIfC'r 111(' tltuHIII� 10 � lao,", 1 ;'Hul lel it eG01

Tr)' to buy pig' s rcel. or trolters, Ihat arc long. wilh h3U or 311 or Ihe

10 room I("rnperaturc,

shank attached. The shank Will provIde more lIle3t .lUd skin. for a

TO ST U f ' T H ( T a O T T [ l H

nlccr wrapper.

II 18 100 tUIU to "orL wllh. Illnl'(" II 11\ 111(" lIIirro\o'l;W," hrirny to milk£, il

TO C O O K T H E P I G 5 F U T

Sl'ht thc trotters lellb"It\\lse. l'lace 3 hed

1\t'1II0\ r thC' ILlll frotn l hc reffl)\l'r'lIor. lf

phahlt. or Il'l ,n;aml 31 roo III ItJn l'er:tlurC' IIntH 80fl('n(,11. ,,"or ('neh IrOller. pbee tI plt'ce of ('.:lui fal (tloakt'11 .lIHl llr,uncll) on a \\ork .lUrfnccl

or mircJlOIx (SCC page 203) and arOll1allCS (carrols. OIIlOI1S. Iteks. b3)'

It ,lIould ht' l.trge t'nouj4h 10 " 1"3 11 3rouml lh(" lituH(,,11 trul l('r thne l i rnt'lt.

leavcs. Ihyme Sprigs, and parsley stCll1s) IIl lhe h01l01l1 of a rolllle3u. or

PIa (' Ihe gLm (olllllHlr do\o'l n) un Iht' c:1II1 fal lllltl lletl!UHl lhc imlhle of thr

decl) straight- sIded hr:llslng pall. Place the Iralleni skin liltle do" n O\'tr

tiklll. 1)l:.c(' thr fnrrt dO\o'ln Iht' 1IH1ltll(' flf IlIl' "kill ;1I1t1 roll it lip in the

the 1111rcllOIX. SJlflnkle the top wllh marc II1lrellolx 3nd aromal lC8. Add

tiklU , Hull up tilt" tllurft'li lrou("r 111 Ihl' calli fnl.

clllckcn titock to cover b), 2 Incht's, Con:r the pOI "lilt 3 1111 and bnng: to

Transrer the pOI to a 300°F'. oven and cook for 3holit O hours. or ul1lll Ihe meal

IS falllllg: 3w31 from the

11t'31 ' . ,"ch ufoil in lUI O\ t'nprouf "�\l1 I'"n o\'cr lltecJhllll hrM ullli' hOI IIUl llot .BuoLlng.

;t lillnrner m c r medIUm he:lI.

liOIlC8. I\CIIIO\'C from lilt' O\'en :11111 cool

HClI10vc the trollers from tltt: "quIlJ. dehollt· th("ln. allti tlu.canl illt.'

1"I'8Cro'C,

Turn Ih(' I rotl l'U ov('r

(The) IItt'll to lIt'at ('\t'III)'. or Ihl'y lIIay bUnit.)

for an hour to make thcrn ea81cr to h:llulle.

hOlies, Remove Ihe Ill("at, shred II. :11111

AllLl lht' trullertl :l11t1 lifO"" oll lhC' "rill Killr,

311tl "Itlcr til a :iOooF. I1VCII fur ahout 10 mlnulr8 . IlIrnint.; UCCMl iulllllly.

l\el1lo\l' any "111(,,\0\ 61111

S('rot' Iht' Irott('u 011 " r.'lKoul of Krt'rll 1t'1I1111i Knrnil'hed with lunlollll of 1i1l10Lt'tl hacoll

attached to thc lug's "kill. The:' "klns \0\ III hccorlll' llu: \0'1 r,I I'I't"I"li. ,,0 IicraJlt' them WIth a kJllfe to make II a UIII(orll1 lluckncs8. Bdrlgeralt· hoth tIll'

W I ' tl \ 1 I . IIIIi,

"kill and Ihe meal 10 cllIll, Slrall1 lhe cooking I Iqllltl alHl reiiCroc

', h n l

21S

Or"..Aii.. k.., .....,.,..' j60J . �h ... f __ k.ortI ....1I """ . '_ .-.tI ',�d, "' • • " lao. I ptJ?e )1!!1 ....... .,.,...,.. �,.tte<J 1'Itj . 1'-1 14',.11.

218

Tho r,onch L o u n d , ďż˝ Coo"boo"

"'lifQI

219

Stocks

and

ces

You con', h".

continually remoying the impurities: the blood. fat . bone. and

iI good Hauce: I( you Hlart wilh a bad 8lock. Too many people lake Blocks

vegetable panicles released in the cooking process. You necd to cook

i. like a garbage CO)nl

your boncs ;lIId me31 i n the proper amount of liquid. 3dding Ihe proper

they throw in all kind. of trimmings. They slather the: honel with

amount or vegetables, I like swect things i n my stock: carrot. onion.

tomato paille and moun lhem unill they hurn.

tom310, and also some gnrlic, J don't use cele,)'. because il make8 the

(or granted. In m:IOY relltaur.ml8 the: Alock pOI

8tock a little biller. Eyery 8tep or the way. you remove impurit ies,

'nit Ideology of a 'Slock lIS important. 11)(: Idea 18 10 remove through

&ycry1hing (ollows (rom this,

extended gentle heal the fl:lVor :md gelalin of the hones and meat while

Sl o(·lt,..

')I'U W

L we make veal 81OCk. we walSh Ihe honc8. Next. we bl3nch

We also make a white yeal slOck withoul lomaloc8 (we do not make a

them. Any 1110011 on the "urruce of the honcK or in the mcat will

rerrloUlllogc ror Ihls slock) that is only cooked for four hours. )'iclding a

CO;Jh'1.llah', tuul l lif'JlC hn purll lc8 wHl nOi'l1 In the: siock. We pour off the

clear. gclalinou8810ck Ih31 we use 10 cook sweetbreads. tonb'lle. trotters

hhulchlnK wah'" rjnllc the IWlleN .1guin. and clean them. (If we had the

things we don't want to darkcn, Bec-1use it's so gel3tinous, anything

I lmc ami "pace:. Wt" W01I111 Manch the honcli lwicc. bUI lt 's impractical.)

cooled and 810red in thc 6tock remains very rresh, Funherrnore. Ihc item

Wt· 1111'11 rclUrn the hOIl l!8 10 Ihl! clean 1'01. 3dd liIe 3Jll 'rol,rl:lle

IIIIIOUIII OrW.1It'r, nnd hrinK i l up 10 a g,' nlle hral. 1!'1I 3lways IrnrtOr1anl 10

haw' II grllelllni 1t'lIIprrjllUrf" charlg,' :ulIl 10 cook Iht· Illock al a low

While Ihe yeal slOck needs a IOllg. slow simmering time. our

1" IfIJlCr.1l 11fl', You don ' l WlIut lll couk Hinck O\'cr loo· fligh fll'at ror Ihree

chicken 8tock is Iluick. We lise the same mClhod, but we cook Ihe hones

re.1Im'Uh flavor. ,·Iarlly. ancl y,t'ld, FirHI, 110111111{ IJOIU'Ii 111111 vegf"llIhlrli cookl rlg Ihem over high hcal will rrlc'alit' nll llll'lr rnlH 1IIIII IJIl l 'uriti"8. nrul lhe YIOICIiCe or Ihe hoillng

(twClily POIlIH.lS ill abolll 1 ga l lons of waler) for forty· fi"c nunuteli ror a ,'e')' light fl:1\'or. one Ihat won't O\'t'rl '0,,"cr a vegetable 6011(> o r ;r risotlo or bccome 100 assertlvc In a quick sauce.

wah.'r will " IIIIIIHif), I hl' lIl Intu tht' Jiloek, 11I1'lie I lI1I JU rrl ic'H, tJllulHlficd

With ,'cgclahle stock. J I 's IInpurtant 10 understand Ihat there IS a

11110 cle�nr 1IIIIIId, \\'111 dUlid Ihe IllOrk. AIIII ir Ihe honcli :11111 vt'gclahicli

poi nt al which the ,'egclahle8 will ha\'c impaned all i heir flavor 10 Ihe

nrf" coukf·t! Ion vIOle' lil ly. or lUI) 101lg. the'), Will IJrt.';l k dOWIi panlclt· II)'

watcr ami \\'iII heglll 10 disilllcgr:lfc and nhsorb liel uid, potenlially

partld" , Th,"w 111111101111 IIr Jlartlcll'1I �'lII l1el Ilkc Uult, IiPO I IK'·H. Hoaklng "1,)'olirgoOlI IilOc'k. Hil llmi whcnyoll 141 r:1I" h . ll lol of IilCJek \\11I 11f'C'IIIiHill

decreaSi ng your yielel,

Ati wJlh our mushrooms when we nt::lke m ush

roulII sfOck. we grind ollr \'cgclablc8 and cook them for 0111)' 15

mintllt8,

In your Chinll c'n" anel wlrui lip l u lhc ",rlrlmge. rCcilll'lllf;)'Ollr tOfal yldel.

We atl.1 cllIckcn reel and cluck rcel 10 our chicke n anti duck Slack,

Arll'r t lil' lilOc'k hnK ,'ook",1 ror Iht· IiJ"'Clfll'.I IIIIIC nnti hl'rn IitrnirlC'd.

rcspcctwriy. and cah'cs' reet 10 all mcat siocks, The fcet conl3in gelatin,

Ihe nunl KH'P lit tu reelure' II lilowly. lIt"dlll"lioll l)(Jugs Ihe ,nock 10 Ihe

adcli ng viscoslly 10 the stock wilhout reduction,

pro lU'r C'UIIKIKh'IU:),. By Kt'llfIlK)uur I 'ut lllli f nfr tilt· hll"u'r, )'on 'll en'ate a

Although We don 't r03S1 fhe \,c.11 hOl ltR , We do rOa61 venison, lamh.

furluml i'UII\" 'Clfnll l'Urrt'UI IlInl I'"KIII'Il IIII' illlp"rilit'li 10 0111' liiclt· or lilt'

and cluck hont·" (or our lu ockli 10 crl':lIe " marc pronounced navor, These

pnt Kn )'UII t'll1l Hkllll llll'lII n\\n)' a kind of nnwrnl rl:lrJf,c.1I1on I'nlrt'KK, 'IfI IIICrt'aKI' ylt·lel and llfil' all IlIl' flnmr III ,'cal lIo m'II, �(' maL.e a

220

being coolC!d impar18 morc of its own flavor 10 Ihc Slack, After cooking with it. we add leflover while "Coli stock to our brown stock,

Iitock8 nrc gOing to he ulied only III fuushed

S:IUCCS for \'e",son. lamh.

anti duck cliBhcs, Because roasllllg acids ifllpunlicli 10 thcse Hlocks, It 'S

n'lIIouillflJ:i'. tl KI'COllrl, "l'nk,'r lilock from lilt' ".' UIlC' IIow'". We aelel 11118 10

i lllporfanl lO lie careful 10 Imug-them up to heat genii)' and he tilitgenl lli

tlU' rirHl Klfll'k IIIIr! rrdurt" it ;rll io " hOIlI ;1 i l llllnl'rnf 1111 ortgll1nl \'Oitlll1t".

Ihe Hkllllllllllg "ucl slrJllu ng,

T h . F r e n c h l a u n d r y C o o "' ''oo '''

VEAL STOCK

TO 8LA N C H TH E 8 0 N £ S � B1anching is an cssential firsl step in thc

makingo( a clear. clean stock. Rinse the veal hones in cold water and PUI 10 pound. vool boooI, ned<.s, and

I lh Cups (8 OOflG(!1) onlon� cut Inlo

the honts and calrs (001. i( using. in a siockpot with at least a 20-quan

I .Inch ml'epoIx (leO pooe 203)

capacity. ( I ( you do not have a stockpot large enough. split the recipe

Ixx�� I

coil'.

1001, '1'111 (opIJoooI)

I head garlk, halved, broken Inlo

between two pOlS.) Fill the pot with cold wilter. .. dding twice ..s much

24 quort� wid walor

ple<.e\, ,oot end and eXGCn skin

w.. ler a8 you have hones. Bring to a simmer slowly: this coagulates the

Scanl 2 cUp\ ( J pound) tomato po�to

removed

blood proteins and brinbrs other impuritics to the surface. As the liquid

AROMATICS

1 112 OOncc1 Itollon ponley �prio�

i8 heing brought to a simmer, move the hones ..round (rom lime (0 time.

2';' CUp' ( 1 2 OOnce1) COf(OIS cuI

If, ounce thymct sprigs

but do not slir. which would create 100 much mo\'ement and disperse the

Inlo 1 .l nch mlfopolx

2 boy leo....

impuritlc8. Skim 0(( Ihe scum Ihat rises to the surface. As soon as the liquid comes 10 a simmer. remove the pOI (rom the heat. (I( the bones

(... POO. 203) 4 cup' ( I pound) look.1o cuI Inlo

I pound lomolOC1, cui Into ' ·Inch

1 .lnch mlfcpolx (MlO POOO 203)

pie<01 (2'1, cUPI)

continue to hbnch any longer Ihan is necessary 10 c03b1lJlate blood proteins and dra\ll' oul olher impurities. more navor will be cxtr:lctcd

(whlto and $Omo 1I0hl OfCCO

into a liquid that you will end up discarding rather th.. n inlo the liquid

port� only)

thaI will become your Slack.) Drain the hones in .. huge colander and rinse with cold water to

dl((ercIII HauceK. Unlike mOl\( rrClp!!8 (or veal stock. oura docs not

stop Ihe cooking process and remove any scum. It is imporlant that the hones he rinsed .....hile they are hot: i( they arc allowed to cool

contain il lilep (or r03Htif'g,he honrs. Thr "rplh o( colorcornes (fQm lhe

(lrst. the IInpuritles will cling to the bones and go 11110 ),our stock.

AI the Fnmch J.o1tHldry. veal Klock Is uKed aB a hasc (or a numhcr o(

IOrnntoCil nlHI tomnto JlIUIlC' awl lhc (Illal reduction procrss. The stock IS

Hinse oul the stockpot to remove any impurllies un the bottom and

IIculral Ilrul clean nnVlJrcd, with thr prtsence o( vral, hut not :III

sides o( the pot.

oV" rwhdming navMo( il.

f O R V [ A L II 1

Heturn the rinsed boncs to the clean stockpot. Add 1 2

I!UarIS o( the cold walfr to Ihe pot. Slowly hrlng the water t o a simmer. You will IIf'Cel lIeccKflil ry.

KlOCkJlllt wilh a IOlIllmum cJl'achy o( IwelllY 'Iuarts. I (

Il le n'clpe cnl ' h e Hpl lt IIctwcf'u IWO IIllHlller Jlut;, o r cut i n half.

Althuugh mnklug vCill KlOCk III a IIIIIf' cOJisuming procrdure. II can

Th iS wdl take I to

) liz hours. Skim continuously! (It is easier to skim

hefore Ihe aromatics are added. and the marc you SkUll, the heller your ch:lIlces are (or a clear stock.)

he flull ovc'r lirvf'ral fby•. The (mn tiny. hlanch the IWlteK and I'repare VeOiI - I I tlte Kecond dny. continue hy lIIaking Vr'al -2; and the Ihard day,

Jlalile. Add Ihe aromaltcs and tht tomatoes. Bring the liquid hack to a

CCllllhillf' the Iicluhhf 10 proclut·c Ihe (lIIal KlOck.

8IJJlm 'r .. nd simmcr (or 4 hoursl Skim, skim. skim.

I . The hlnnchhlj{o( holll'K (or ci nriflc.1IioJl ( 1 10 I IIJ hound.

then through ;J chin0l8 (sec page 73) inlo a sccond conlainer. rescrvlng

2. V" al - I 'nlc lulllni ('XlrnelioJl o( nnvor (rom honc8 :lIul nromallcs to

Ihe boneK anti aromallc.&. Do not press on the sohds Ifl the siraineror (orce

Once the hquHI IS al a simmer. 13k un and then stir in the tOll1alo

Strain Ihe IHluid, first through a China cap (sec page 73) or colander.

ulilnin a finn lhl uid (5 In 6 ItollrM).

:!. VI'III -2, or "'''WllIllflKf 'nit

IIf'('OIHI eXl rnction o( nnvur 10 olHilin a

HCCOll d liltuiti (5 10 (, III>lar,,). IlrIllQUlIlIIJ.:t' Ifl IIU' J:rcnch term (or the

icc water, pl aclIlg Iht container in Ihe SlI1k, and stirring the liquid

r(, lIIoI H lrning. " or H" cond (·xlr.1cl ion (rom the honcK. " " 4. M arriage o(Vcnl · 1 nnd VCil' -2 ilud (unhtr reducllolI lO concentl.ltc

occalllonaUy unul there iUC no traces o( steam and the 1i<luld IS cool. Once

color nnd conKI,nenC)' (8 10 9 IulurM).

222

through allY liqUid that docs not pass on its own. You should have approxlmalely 0 to 1 0 'tUilrtS o( liquid. Hapidly cool it hy filling a sink wllh

T h a Fr e n ch L o u n d r y CO OU IOOIt.

it Is cool. rdngerJle.

F 0 A v [ A l II 1

nfiC'8 10 thC' Iurf�(,(,. '\:$ soon .18 th(' lI'1uul COIIIl'II 10 1\ 1"l11l1u'r. �mo\� it

RelUrn the bones :md 3rom:nics to the ckm sI0c:kpOI.

co nt lnl le

to 111:II1('h Itny IOIll{e'r thl'm 18

Fill with the re,"lunlng 12 quarts cold water. SIO\o�'ly bn ng the liquid to a

(rom Ihe 1IC':11. (If Iht" bone"

si mmer. skimming oftcn. Simmer for another 4 hou�. 6kullllllng

nect'58J1') to ('Q:lKui:tll' blood proteml 3nd tlr:m oul olh('r ItUjlUrt1lC"

frequently.

morlC 03\or ",11 he rxt�(,lcd 11110 a IUI\IIII Ihnt ou .... 111 enel u l ' d l e'anl lO�

Strain

the liqUid tWice. 3S (or Vcal ' I . You should

�ther th:an Into the I Uluui l h3t \\ 111 hC'rol1le ,our "'toel.:.)

ha\'t"

approximately 8 to 1 0 quarts o( liquid. Rapidly cool It down 3.5 dlrt'c:tcd

Dr;ull the bOIlt''' III 3 13fltl' co1:ullter Ihll&r tllr hOl lr{\ \\cll. unlll

for Ve31 - I . If you will not be flnillhing the stock ..... lthlll a fe..... houf'll.

ther(' i8 no fltm Idt on th{"1II1 I he) 8houhl f('C'I t'IIIOOlh 10 Ihl' 1 01 1('1 1 alHl

refngerate the liquid,

the \\:uer ahould run dro:\f It Iii \ cry I Inpurt:uu t hJ.t thr hunr" he' nnttl'cl

f O R T H [ · "u, A R I A G [ " OF V E A l

AND VEAL

II I

CIc:a11 the

61ockpot and add Vcal 'I and Veal '2. Slo\\ly bn ng the It'luui 10 3. s im me r. TI1I 8 Illay ttlke 1 10 I IIJ hours. Suumer for 6 to 8 hourg, or un ll l

Ihoroughl

10 rt'1II0\t' lin

ITUpUnllC8. .... hlch \\ouM not onl

rloucl the

.,Iocl hUl lllake IJar fllllfihl'ci ttlock HrJY

Cle:m Ihe pOI 01 1111 return Ihe ho nr"

tu I I. Atlll IItr ('ohl .... ater Alut

the stock reduces 10 approximalely 2 quarts. It should h.3\'e .3 nch bro..... n

glo",l) lmng tht' " .. I('r 10 " lillT1l11t'r, "l.:IIIIIU'"� frel}ur'nlly. 011('(' 11 11' nt A

color and a sauce like consistency. SlOre III the rdngenlor for se\'ual

81J1l1t1er. :uftl the 3rOIll31 1(''' 3nd c onl ll lU(" In "IIIUII('r (or ., honrt'.

days. or frecle to 6c\'eral contalncrs for longer storage.

"kunnllng frc4l uCnll) to rrIllO\l' an

... ...:. 0 . u o u ' 2 Q U . l n

1\Jrn orf tlie hCil1

WHITE

VEAL

tu r('ln (or

)lJg(' :'3) or (IIIr 1I1(,lIh II lrJ I Il C' r

t"lIough 10 holtl :11 1('.151 4 '11I:lr1"

3 cups ( 1 pound) onions cui InlO I .inch mlrepolx (iCC page 203)

bock>

ami tll J o\\' thc I(IO('k

10 lIIillUlr81 thi"

:1.110\\'11 all' plr1lclt"!l Ic,(t In Ihe Iilork to 5('1 I 1t' !ll lhC' 1I01lOm oCtllr pUI. Set

STOCK

:t c1111101S (tiee

1 0 pounds veal bones, nedu, and

III1J1Urlllctt. 11lr 1I100'k .... '11 htlV(' A

1I01l(,(,3hl(' ciani '.

iWl'r " ('onlilll\er IArgr'

5r " 1:\llIr 10 rCIIIOH' Ih(' IUt)rk frol1l th('

IlOl allll .,lr;"n II 11110 Ih(' COIIUulI('r (II 1 5 illlJlnrtanl 10 ltHlir Ih(' "lUck

I calf's foot, split (optional)

Ih ounce Itolion parsley sPfi9s

rJlhrr I hall pouring It. 3fi tlte forr r of ! 'o un nl-: It (Jul "II AI tlncr \\'ollltl

10 quarts cold water

2 boy I."..,

for('(' II11 1Hlrlllrli IhrouK" 111[' ,.1 r'JlIlrr. ) Illllrtmi :m' "toel lo",anl thr

AROMATICS

5 .prig. ,hyme

hOllom oflhe pot Ihat III ('lnUlI "lilt 1I1 lllUnllrtl Fill II lillik "111i I('r "':lI('r arul plaet' I he COllllliller III li to ('0411 do\\'n

4 cups ( I pound) leek! cut InlO

f3J1 l1l1y StIr orca!ilOllaJly 1111111 thrrr arr 110 Wlt'l'" o( Klcll lilo

1 ·lnch mlrepolx (sec pago 203)

Ih(' lilork

(while and some 1I0hl green

ncfngt'f:ue thr 1I10('k for I 10 2 da) li, or (rrt'lr III "('\'eral conlnlnefll fnr

ports only)

10111o:('r IIl0r..ge .. " U \ 3 O V . I ' S

Hluse the vcal hone8 In cold .....alt:r and place Ihe bOllu :md us mg. In a 1 6 (Iuan

hlockpol . Add e nough cold

calr., foot.

\\tlh:r 10 COIllC Ihrce

'1uancrs of till' \\31 up the Sides of Ihe: pOll there fihuultl bc JI ICJIH 1\\ ICC a8 much waler a8 there are bOIlC6. Slo.....ly lmng Iht' \\;lI{"r 10 a 6U1Ul1rrl dUN

mily lake 1 10 I III hourg, As Ihe hqUl d ls hr. lng hrought lo a Sl Irl ll lr r. move the bones around from tune to l i llie, hUI do nOI fillr, "')lIch ",ould cn'ale too much movemcnt anti dls)lt'rse the unpunuc8 SkUll offlhe IiCUII1 1hal

LAMB

hrowning. Once Ihe bone8 :Ire 3 rich deep brown color. removc them

STOCK

from Ihe roasting pan and pbce them in one large stoc)..-pot or two 1 0 pouncfl lomb bonet. CuI Inlo

l it, cup' (8 ounces) onlon, cut Inlo 1 .I",h ml..poI. (sea pog. 203)

lmall ph:cc,

I head gartic. halved, broken InlO

It, cup canota 011 , ",II', fOOl, 'pili (optional)

plCCct$, rool

1 0 quo'" cold wOIor

removed

end and CKCOS' ,IOn

smaller ones. TO D E G L A Z E T H e R O A S T I N G P A N

Add just enough water to harcly

cover Iht: boltom of the roasting pall. Pillce the pan over medium he3t and usc a wooden spatula to scr.,pc up the glalc and bits of mcat on Ihe bottom oflhc p3n. Add this lo the slockl'ol.

A R O M AT I C S

l it, ounces 1I0lian panley 'pOgs

FOR THE

2't, cup' ( 1 2 ouncOl) COl101, cut

'11 oonco

waler to the pot. Bring Ihe li(lliid slowly 10 a simmcr. skimming off any

Inlo I ·/nch mlr"polx

Ihymo 'pOos

E XT R A C T I O N

Add the c.1lfs foot. if using. and the cold

2 boy leo,,,. ( I pound)

scum 018 soon a8 ),ou Bce it. (It is casier 10 skim hefore Ihe vegelahles arc

Scant 2 cups tomato paste

and tomatocs and 8immer the stock for 5 hours.

I pound tomatoes. cut Inlo 1.lnch

L A D L E T H E S T O C K I , n o A C O N TA I N E R

(00. poge 203)

added.) Once the liquid is:!t a simmer. add the aromatics. tomato p:lste.

4 cup, ( 1 pound) leeks CUi Inlo I .'"," ml,.poI. (wo pooo 203) (white and lOme light oreen

First ladle from the lOp.

rathcrthall dlpplllgclecp, lhcn tilt thc pOl iO continuc ladlinglhc IICJuid:

pieces (2'1, cUp')

PO"' ""Iy)

remove and disC3rd the honcs as you go. 00 not he tempted to pour thc stock through a cobllder; I t ,",ould make the siock cloudy. Then strain

T O M O A � T nil B O t H S

Prclu::U lheoyc:nt0 100°F.

Plncl' the IAmh ImneK in a ro:lIJ1ing pan Ih ..t Is lllrgc enough

the stock through ;& ChlllOIS (scc page 73) or fmc- mesh str"incr. 00 not 10

hold

Ihell1 III ulle layer. ( I f Ihc·y Art' erowtled. Ihey will stcam and flot brown c·yenly. WIC 1"'0 paliK If IIt'Cf·fUJI.,y.) Th(' oplional C:llrR fool Is not ro:uuccJ. fill

Ihnl \'/ould tleerc'allt' Ihe CllrLH:llofi of KeI.. II".

Coni Ihe hone" whit the oil; liKing oil KI ' 'c·dll Ihe roalil i ng process. Homll (or nhullt l ila hours. Ktlrrlng occ., slollally 10 ClUlurc even

224

The F , e n c h L o u n d , y Coo"boo"

force through any JII '31 or liquid rClll3111ing In the strainer. YOII "llould have 3 to 1 'Juans of J:lrnb siock. If necessary, rcturn the 8trnincd Block

the heal and reduce to 3 (l ua rtR. Hcfrigerale for I to 2

days, or freele in several containers for longer storage. M A " l S 3 O U A lt t S

DUCK STOCK

Ihe honCil litt'.1ming ratlu:or than roullng. Ollre tltt" honr. Art' :t neh cl('("1'

red bro"" (not hlack). r('II1O\t' Illtlll rrolll ilic m""!lngpan 3ntl l'll\c(' III

5 pounds duck bones, cut Into

3 1 2 <IUiU1 lnorkpol,

I 'n cUp10 (8 ouncct) oNonS

2- to 3·lnch plCCe1

cut Into 1.lnch ptece5

'12 cup conola 011

D[GlAU

T it [

10ASTIHG

mCdltll1l hC31 10 conecnl r:&te' :a n

I ounce Itonon paf'\lcy sprigs

'AN

1'1:1 t' Iht' rO:UllinK pan m'er

relllaini"K IUIUIII. (It ill hn llorlallt 10

h3\'e 3 "gl:Il'C" bdore )OU "(Icgl;ut'.") Once the Ilclulcl hnK r('lillc('tt lll il

1 pound duck fect (optional)

(, lIough

6 quarn cold water

J/.. cup tomoto poste

glne. 3th.! JUlil

AROMATtCS

1 pound lomatoes, cut Inlo 1.lnch

lI.ln, UIIC :1 ,""ootien Ipllt ub lO 8cr3pt" uJl llte: glille' ;tllcl ('olllhinc it wi t h Iht' liclulIJ . Add Ihii to tlu: IIlockl'UI.

I J/.. cups (8 ounces) corrats cut Into

picc", (2'1, cUp\)

Acid Ihe tluck rcel, Ir uSing. DIUI the coM ,",,'a ler In Iht' pot. )Snug Ih('

1.lnch mlrepob: (sec page 203)

hquid filo" l)' 10 :1 ll1ll1l1er. lI kl l l1 rn ing orr 1111)' IiCUIlI as KOOII '''' you tlte It.

2 cups (8 ounces) leeks cut Into 1.lnch mlrepoLt

,"" uler to hiHd)' eO\'rr the hOI l O Il1 or Ihe rollKlinK

(11 18 c:t.llier 10 "kun ltdo re tltt' \·egc lahl(' . art' Dlldrtl.) Ollce the IIc lulcl l"

(�

page 203) (white ond s.omc

at 3 1lmll1er. 3tlli lhe arom3l1CII. 10111,,10 Jl3!ill'. l1nll IOmDI0rll 1'11111 IIi llltUt'r

li9ht green parts only)

thc lilock ror ·l hOllrll, Sln!n Ihe lilOck dlret' II l11eli ICJ ('IIIiUrC Ihal O1t\y illlJlurltft'II nrc

Compa red 10 the r:llrly neutral c1uckcn 3ntl vl:3l slocks. "llIch are used

rellloH'tll Finn 81fJIIl I I Ihrough a col:1I1IIrr alHI dh,r:ml lh(' hotlt" nml

:18 a base ror sauces. tillS duck Illock 18 more concenlr3ted

aromallcs NUl "traan IhruuKh n CIIIIIIl ca Jl brr pagl' 73). alld rillnlly

:HIlI n:l\'orful.

The hones arc roa liled 10 llIake the duck flavor more prol l ou nced .

Ihrough .. ChUIOl1i <til'(, !laKe 73). On nul rortC' IUIY Iwlul" or Ihickcllell

TO R O A S T T H [ b O N E S

You KhouM ha\'r 3pJlrOlU 111111f'ly :l '(lInn. or Kluck,

! tCI Uld li th roll gh 11t(' Prchcal thc o\·erl lO ·I25°F,

nm8c the duck hones .....ell 10 rCIIlO\'C ;my IraCt" or hlooll.

sUlK 3

litrolillr'ni. ilK Ilu'y ""'GuM dOIlCl lllt' rUlhlht'11 "lOck,

'- O R T I 4 [ '- I H A l I l D U C T I O t4

ThrlilUrk lihuII1cI ht' a tlt'<'!, n'cl hrow lI

towel. dry the ho ncs ,"" ell (.....el hOllcs ,""ould 81eMIl roulle:r Ihan roalil),

colur. ,"" ltll " COII"181t'nl)' )CIII COlli red IWI"f'r'1I ),our nliKerli allil wilh it

1)lacc Ihe 1101l('S IIl a rO:lslln,; p:lll lh:u Is la rgt' enough to holel IIII'IIl ill 011('

I 'rolluullct'ti lluck n..vur_ Ir Ihr' lilllek 31'11I'4fli rf'll ln culor nnel ill Will ry.

Inyer, or they 3rc cro,"" ded. Ihey ..... 111 s tca IH O11ld nOI lIfO,",, " t'\'(,lIly.) The

runllf'r rrtiucllon Iii ut'C'eliillry In t'IItlct'lIlr3Ir tile' color. COllttltillellcy, 111111

opt ional duck rttl arc not roaslccl, 38 th31 ,"" Hillel ell'f'rc:�a8C Iht' t')lracllOlI

n3\'t)f, ft)f t"r I I I ll ny or thr6t' r('cll't'lI, lilowly r('ducl! lit(' litclck 111 2 ('III'Ii,

of gcl:tl III, Coal t he hOIl(,'" "lilt tht 011: USlllg oll sl'tcdri 11u- rO;lI�llng Ilfot'cS6 H03Sl lhl' honch rur abOUI I I/: ltuurh. OUrtll'; thl' fUatillllJ.; IlfUCt'Mi. ,"" all'r

ndngeral(' tht' litoel (or I III 2 daya, or (n'ct.l' III Olll! or tWI) COIIIIlUlt'rli ror longer blOr.lgc "' ''' ''' 1 \ 2 C U ' S

;wd r.:It ,",,' l lI le:!ch rrolll tltt' hOllrb; rt'II1U\(" It ;u� 11 3CC'Ulllui:aIt'Ji. or 011 nbk

M u t 22�

VENISON

Chill ihe stock and remove the f�n th�1I will solidify on the top. Then

STOCK

reduce the 8tock to 3 quOins and strain. Refrigerate for 1 to 2 days. or 1 0 paunch ...enl"", bones

I I", WP' (8 ounc.es)

onion.

'/2 CUp conola ofl

cut Into 1.lnch mlrepobt (see

14 quo.. r cold waler

pog. 203)

AROMATICS

1 112 OUnce1 l talkJn pol'1ley sprigs

I head gartlc, holvctd, broken Inlo

I", OUnc<l lhymc .prig.

ph:cct,t

root end

ond OJtCe1,S

2 boy ICOVe1

OUnce1)

I pound lomolOO1, cut Into 1 .lndl

carlots

cut Into ' .Inch mlrepolx

(MIO

pogo 203)

CHICKEN

5 pounds chicken bones. necks,

4 quar1S cald walcr

Scanl 2 cups tomalo posta

2 QUOr1S Ice cubes

1 J/. cups (8 ounces) COl'lots

2 heaping cups

(8 ounces) leeks cut

203) (white and somc Ught green por1S only) 1 112 cups

(8 ounccs) onions cut Inlo

I ·inch mlrcpoht (�c pogc 203)

A R OMAT I C S

(se. pogo 203)

STOCK

Into J.lnch mircpoix (sec pagc

I poond chicken feet (09,100011

pl� (2't, cups)

.4 cups (1 pound) leClIu cui Into 1 .lnch ml,.poI,

". 4 ( [ S 3 O U A Iil T S

and bocks

skin removed 21t, cups ( 1 2

(reeze in several containers for longer use.

cut Into

I boy leaf

I·'nch ml,.pol, (see poge 203)

(whllo ond soma light oreen port. only)

This light. clean·flayored chicken stock is suilable for a variety of uses. You will need n very large slockpor-al lea'" twenty·four quarts- for thl8

AB a hase for a flUICk 6auce or a hraising liquid. it will lake on the navors

recipe, If you do nOl lulVe ont. make It In two potR. orcut the recipe In half.

of the IndiYldual dish. 1 like its light. alm06t neutral. laSIC. BUl for a stock wl1h more chicken navor. rcduce thc water by one third or

T O R O A S T T H E B O tU S

Preheat tht oven to 425°P.

PlAce tht hone. in II single Inyer In a large roasllng pim and dri7.71e

increase the amount of hones uscd. Par a more flayorful soup base. gently reduce It to the color and flavor inlensity desired. the pot pulled

with the nil. HOtun, turning the honeK occlIHlonally. for ahout I hour 45

10 the 8ide of the fl3me or burner so you can skim any residue that

minuteR. or until they arc well hrowned. Ilcmove the honc8 to a very

collect8 31 the side of the pot.

IO'Ke Htockpo,. TO D f G L A l f T It ( R O A S T I t' G PAH

Rinse the: bones. necks. hacks. and oplional chicken fect thoroughly under cold water to remove all the visible hlood. Remove any org3ns th31

wooden aptilulA to loollen the glazed Juiceli. Add to the stockpol.

may sllll he attached to the hones. (TIle nnslng or bones and removal of

Add Ihe cold water 10 the pot And IIlowly hrlng to a Kimmer. Add

any organ8 is an essential firsl step in the clarification or the Slack. as

the aromatic". 10ml1lO(:8. and torn310 pallte to lhe (lot nnd simmer

hlood proteins are removed that would coagulate when healed and there

ror 5 houra.

Will therdore he less chance Ihat IInpunties Will cloud your stock.)

LADLE THf

� T O C K I N T O A C O H TA I U f R

Pirlit ladle from Ihe lOp.

Plnce all the hone8 and Ihe feet, If u8lng. in a 1 t1·

I G· quart

rAther thnn fliJlplng dcep. then lilt the pOl iO continue Indllngthc IIquidl

RIOckpol . Cover with the cold WOller. Slowly hring the liqUid to a simmer.

remove And dillcard the hOlieB tlK you go. Do not he templed to pour the

hcglllning to skim a8 soon 3S any Impuritlc8 nst: to the top. (It is

stock II\tough A colnnden it would rnnke the "lOck cloudy. Then Ktrain

Important to keep skimming. because as the stock comes to :1 Rimmer.

the fltock through n chlnol" (flee page 73) or flllt" mesh strainer. Do not

Impurltie8 could 0lherwi8e be pulled hack into the liqUid and emulSify

force through any ment or Ihluld remnining In the strainer, You RhouM

and cloud the flni8hed stock.)

have nhont 4 'l unrlK of venllion litock. 226

Add ahout a cup or wllter to the

pAn, pluer the pAn over medium heat. ruul Icrape the hottom with a

T h e F r e n c h L o u n d , y Cookbook

Once the liquid is al a simmer. add the ICC and then remo"c the folt.

lIeat thc 011 In

02 luO<':l'llOt. Atltl

the \'cgctQblu anti curry powder.

(TIH! ice will chill and thicken the fat ;md tu rn 11 op�que. m��ang it collier

Cook. for 2 "unutes. slirTing oct'uion3.II),. then :llId. Ihe b;ay leaf. Ih me.

to TCmO\·c.) Skim of( :as much of the ImpUTlUCI a8 possible. (Oncc the

:lnd 2 (IOU" of thc ....aler. . Urlng to a "hnmt'r ':Uld lI.lmmt'r for �S IIHnUtel.

vegetablcs are added. sklmmlllgw,1I be more ,ilffieuh.)

Stram lhe liloc.k through a chinol . brt' p3gC 73). I'rrllung do\\'n o n

Add the :lrOlllallC8 and 810....'ly hring the liqUid h3Ck to a SlInlllcr.

Ihe solidI. 3.nd return the ngcllhlr:l to the 8tuck-POt. SC'I the ltock nsitl('1

skimming frequently. Simmer for anothcr 30 to 40 Im nule•. slmnrnlng

),ou should h3\'e :ahoul

oflen. Turn off the heat and alia.... the Slack to rest for 10 mmutC'lh dill

qUIna water and relurn to :I IImmer_ Cook for :lOother

allows 3ny p:lrtlclcs left In the stock to scttle at the bottom of the pot,

Str.lll1 31 before.

G CU I'I. Ildlll ihe .tockpot '" 1111 the

u'l1 Iluning 2

'IS

I11UlUh:l.

Set a elllnois (sec page 73) or flllc- mesh stTalner O\'er a cont:UUer

Comhine Ihe t.....o h"tche. of luock i n :t pOI. Bring 10;& holl 'Hul reducc

large c nou gh to hold at least G 'Iuans. Usc 3 ladle to remo\'c the stock

unlll ),ou hll\'c 3 CUpl. Utfngcrille for up 10 2 llllYIi. or frec/e fo r up to G

from the pot ;H1d strain II mto the contalncr. (It IS unpon3nt lo ladle thc

months

stock rather than pouTIng it. as the force of pouTIng 11 out all at once

M A IIi. "

3 (U'\

would force UnpUTlIICS through the str;uner.) Dlsc3rd any stock toward the boltom of the pot that is cloudy with IIllpunties.

V[G[T.IL[

STOCK

Fill 3 SUlk Wllh Ice \\':ller and place the contalllcr in 11 10 cool the stock rap idly. Sur occasionally unili there are no tr.aces of steam. Hdnger31c

for I to 2 days. or (reele in sc\·cr.al co nt3 1 nc rs for longer slora 'e. ¥AK I \ AIOU'

MUSHROOM

I '!, pound, 1«1<> ( I 10'00 bYnch.

6 OUA'"

coonety c.hopped

and coo�ly chopped

V. cup c.anolo 011

(aboul 4 107 cup')

2 boy I""""

I pound colton. peeled and coorsety

STOCK

� (abou1 3 cup')

1 pound buHon mushrooms.

I ,moll f('nnel bulb. lrimmed ond

.... h l le pan only), -wetl wa\hed

112 cup italian porsJey spriCJs

2 \PfIO' Ihyme 2 ounce, (I 10'00 bunc.h)

I '!, pound. (oboo' 2) Sponl.h

italian pcln1ev

'I.. cup conolo 0'1

onJom, c.oon.cly c.hoppeod

3 10 4 quol1s WQlet,

I cup sUced carroh

'12 tcospoon cur,y powder

(aboul 4 1h cups)

I cup sliced leelu

I boy Iccl

woshed and sliced

I cup sliced onions

, large sprig thyme Vegetahle lii toek lOIiCl it" n..\'or 'I u ickly. Mukt' It lUI c1oRt' to th(' l i me of UIIO

4 quarts waler

38 posslhle:'. mllke 11 in tunall 11uOIntlll(,1 or fre(/.t' 1t i nllllecliulcly. 11118 810ck can he m;uJe ..... lth 3ny mushroom and used In soups or 83UC�1

As ..... llh any stock.

free/cH ....ell . We gnnd the V�Kct: lhle8 III :I meat

g:nndcr 10 expose more surbce art'3 for clulck cooking 3ml purer n;wor

ChO I) all lht' u:gt'tllhleli 1n 3 food proccnor. Cook tllr \'C!Kclahleli In tilt' canola oil in

U II1lnutt'8,

A medium

fllockl}ot ovtr

or unlll lIuflrl'lt'II. Acltl Ih(' hay

I rtlvt'li.

Tlus recipe c:llIs for 3 footl processor. ....' Illch 1I10r hOllle kitchcII8 are

low he.:u for 5 10

l ikely to have. 38 3n altern3t,,·e. TIlt: curry po .... dt'r hnllgli out the

thYIl1C'. 31111 p3 Tli lry. lind ('lIuuKh walt'r to cover. nTllIg 10 n gentle

mushroom fla\'or.

81111111e'r. likaru nung fn:llu('lIlly. anti cook for 45 II1lnUI (,1

Strain

Ihrou�h II clilnois (fif'(" 1'111;(' 7:n itrfrlgrral for 1 10 2 d ay•• o r frc:clc in Fl ndy gnnd the mushroom8. c:arrols. leeks. onIOns. and 113Tliley

8cpar31t!ly

In a

food processor. pulslIIg and scraping <10..... 11 Ihe lildes

:lIi

sever.:!) cOlllall1cfli for IOIlKcr "loraKt'. "' A t "

3 f a 4 OUAI ! \

necessary for an even CUI. '.. hot

227

" Q u l cl,"

SUUC('H

L liz CUp conolo 011

1 cup (5 to 6 ounces) onions cut Into Ih-Inch

I ';' pound. bone>, chopptd Into 1.lnch piece>

3 CUJ» woler

I cup (5 ounces) diced cotrOIs CuI InlO lIJ.inch mlrepoix (sec poge 203)

mllcpolx (..., poge 203)

2 cups strained Veol Stock (poge 222) or 1 cup

1 cup (4 ounces) lee� cut Into IIz·Inch

2'/, CUi» "'olowd Chk",," Slock (pogo 226) Ot WotCt

mlrepolx (see pogo 203) (white and lIoht

stroined Veol Stock plus 1 cup sttalned

green por1S on�)

stock mode with the same bones as "quick" sauce (venl�n, duck, or lamb)

deally. a grc;,tl sauce iii madt: frolll Illock U81r1g the hOlies o( the Uleal

..... ilhoul leaving any partlclc8, 'OIllall), h e rap Ihe rim o( Ihe chillols to

that IA (,'alllf('d III I IIl' dlllh, TIle French I..:wndry docsn'l h<l"c the

speed Ihe slralmngand then progrc88 10 a swirling mallOn, hut \\c ncver

fipace 10 filOrt' a drucJI dlf(crcnl lllCJcks Jlordo mOIi! home (rcelcrs, TIlis

(lump Ihe sauce ..... lIh 3 ladle: Ihe goal IS to rcmovc the partlcle8, 1101 1111l;h

IIlI'lh(1I1 1111" 8 dlickt'fI nnd "tal Hwck (1,,",,0 IilOekH ),ou lihoultl kcep on

Ihcm Ihrough. You can makc a ",{uick" Hauee .....lIh the honcs of squall, venison,

II:Ul,1) nli 01 h:lIit' (or I)!Hlding d lf(erclil navon:cl liallceli Ihat Hflpan the n:lvllr of Ilu' nll'::'1 ur lunl lwHlK lit'n'rd )'1'1 rt" p"re onl)' a small arnoum of Imlll'H, (V"r f'xrllllple, I I ,,",ould he cIJfflCuh 10 3(,'l ulr<: enough Ii"uah l1Ont'li lo lIlak,' n JlrtJPt'r IHock,) TIU' "'I "lck" H:'UC" II IIIlrro r l ll(' HIU('k Jlw),anK l'nJces8 l n lflilnywa)8,

1 Ic.'at Ihe canola 011 o\'er IlIgh heal l i l a ,,",Ide heavy pOI large enough to hold the hones III one la),cr, \Vllen I I Just hegills to smoke, add thc

hUI IIII' ' 1 lIlck 1I,lIll'('" ar(' Oa\'orf'd hy cilr,ll11dlllllg 1111.' ve:gc.'I.'lhlcli.

hones, Scar th(' bOlles, Wllhout 611rn ng, for aholll 1 0 1ll1l1Ulcs, The)'

hrownitlg lilt' l"'fIf'II, .'11111 IIwrI hy n'Jlt':lte:d dc'glallng, n'dUClJolI, illIIl

shoulll he well hro\\ ned he(ore Ihe' arc mo\'ed, or IhC)' WllI SI\'C ofr,ltclr

f." IIIf' HOIUld'h WIIt'II II ... hullt's are ,,1:lc(.'lI 1 1 1 IIU'

JUices anel "t'glll IQ sl(:am r:Hhl'r Ihan hrowll. Turn the boncs allli cook

rluriflrar loll, I.ltilt'rI

011, yuu Hlwuld JII'M ;1 vi/JI" 111 till/II', ,,", h l(�h I" H" )OU )OClr oil Hi hot

(or aboul 1 0 IlllllulC& longer, or UIlIII Ihc), are l'velll), colored, (We'll

{'rll)lI�h, Ollel' 1111' IlIl uld IH ildd,'(J. III(' till/hnl; ,,", I H '1 111('1, J\g tilt' IUl 'lid ('WJIWrlll" II, ;1 Kln/c' ""' III furlll 011 Ihr IWIIIHlI of Iht, pan, \\11It'l1 tellH you

f O R T U ( F i le 1 D l G l A Z I N Co

Ihat I I 'H 111111' It) Ilr'glill(' ilg:1 I11 E.lrh 111111"" glnl(' I" (orlllt'd. }Oll \\llI lu'3(

as Iht' "quul gae:s Hlto the pOI: Yuu

"1/llillK, 111111 c';II'11 tlIIU' )'t/ltlll'gla/c', lilt' JlUI \\111 IIc','ulI1(' qUI('I,

pOI; Ihl'lI, 3S II rc·duccs, It h ili bf'COlllt' 'l Ull't , Stlrnllg \\ 1I1t a \\oodcn

W" IIHC' HU!lII' dlu'hn tilOck .Hlel \\" II'r UH "", ,,II l"I" vC'nl lHock fllr IIICSt, ; If Htr:lIghl ,,'al lillH'k ,,",c'r,- wH'd, " would n-cll/t'(, luO Iflul'h and IlC'coll1t' IUO J.;.,lal llluIIH, aJIII lilt' O'I\1if "tJIIlct 1)1' 1110 c'()Ilce'llIr,llt·cl. Tilt, C'illr)..c'lI HllICk :111"\\,, IIH IU CUtl).. Ihe' hune'H IUIiK '·IIoll,.;h 10 t'JLtract lilt'" Oa\Ur

roa81t'd hOllt's \\", ).;-1\'(' the: b3UCt' Jls Oavor.) A,ld Iht, I cup haler to the pOI Llste:n '\ III

hear II slll.llII� as II hilS Iht: hOI

Hpoon, fierilpt' ii I' any gla1cd J Ull't'b "'wHlng 10 Ihe hOIlOIll or the pOI and cook untIl Ihe: l!fl llal has t'\,apur;c ll'c1 :Ind the pot IS regla/l'd ilnd till/hng agalll (Tht, otl bllll 111 111(: put \\ 111 la' rl'JI1o\e:d lalt'r.) f O ft

HI(

l C O I� O

O(G

ti G

Wht'll lIlt' haler ha� l'\;lporJlcd,

,I Hlork ,lln'ally

dq,;1a7c' Ihe pOI h 1111 Ih, e'llp o( Ihe dlldt'll stock as ilbO\(' TIllS tlllll', as

IIUHlf' frnlll llll' HIli"" kllill o( hunr'ti ) 1111' rc' 1II " �I"g IIIf' c{llick liaurl' \\JlII

till' Mock 11011" du,,", n. Iht, color uf IIIl' built's ;lIld IUl uld h til lu'cQIIl(' tit·t'fu'r :Hld Iht, 11,lIur;c1 gcl:ltlll prl't\l'lI' III Ihl' stock \\ III glatt' the bones,

\\llhulit Ih" filurk 111'1'''''1111''; tCHI n'c1ur,'d, I( )011 ha,,'

(I" K" Ifyllu ' n' lIll1J.. l lIgll ({u!I'k Inlllh '1,111('(' allfl 1I,1\ I'lnrnh Hl/)rJ.. 'HI hnlHl), rc'"lllr(' lwlr Ilw vl'al ,unrk \\ Ilh Ihnl KHlc'k AKII III, IIII' I 'rtl lW r H 1I11I1I1I1 or ",1 1 11('111111 (1\I'rg" llIh'lu';u, '\ 1111 Iht' 1'01

228

lamh, or whalcH:r meat you arc preparing,

'o�

T Il [

T il A ll [) f Ci L A l UG

Add llw \'c'gt't:lhlcH, Tht' \\.I!c'r lll llw

,·c'�cl:l"'C'H prlJ\lttc'H Ihe 11I{1I1c! for' clt'glanng, Cook ah :cho\(' lIlIlll tilt,

pullt,c! III IIIC' Itille' II( Ihc' O:lIl1r, ;1111 1 (,Ofll lllllUl "klJlllrllJlg 10 n'lIl11\(.'

mOllitllrl' has c" Jpuralt'" arltl lht, \q;:c'lillllc'ti art' IlgIIII) ('ar:lflll'll/l'cI

1lIl,lUdl ll'" rcrr p,tr,II110UIII Aud hiit'll IIII' Hllllrc'" art' flOllt', ,,",C' J;lralll

Ihrlll 111,111) 1 IIIIl'n In n'IIH1\I' iI" 111:111) 1II11'"rlllt''' ,IH l'"ltHllllc'. A hlngl,'

htoC)... IIII' \('al HIOCk. and Iht, n'lII,lInlflg 2 {,lipS Or '\Jh'r Dc'gla/l' thl' pOl.

Klluef' flUI), lit' ,,11'""It''' .u� lIIilll) ,I" l\\f'lIl) IIl11l''', 1IIf' ('IIIIIOIIi \\;lltlu'"

HeraJllllg "I' Ihl' ,.;la/l'cI JUICC'Ii frum III(' hOllum. tlu'n trans(c'r IIIC' hlOl'J..

III'I\\'('C',. f ,/It'li Htr,"fllng. 1111111 IIIf' H,lIlrc' P:Ullil'H Ihmugh l I lt' ChlJlUIH

and IIolH'" In a tim:""'r, IwrrOhl'r pOI gO Ihat II \\111 111' t',ltill'r

T h e F r e n c h l o u n d r y C o ,, " l>oo"

Z t4

,'d,1 IIIC' n'm:lIlllllg 2 tUps c lud(, 11

10 hJ.. 1I11

Bnng to " SlInnll'r (.... llh the pot sct PU11311 off the: hurlle:r 10 fort'e I hr

II11Jlunllcli 10 Ihe: tilde of Ihe pOI) allll lndir off the Oal .lll it rUie:8 to titt' top

45 nllnulcs, SL.IlIlllllllg oflrn, until the: tllock h38 reduced 10 tht" Jc\c1 of lh.., honl''',

Sumne:r for 30 to

Slr"lIl lhe S;lUCC th rough " Chllla

("11) (IiCC

page:" 13) .lull I ht' ll

.la'3lU

t h rough " clunols (ht't' pagr 73) , Do not force: all) of l he �lu18lhrough Ih(' str.l l ner, or tilt,) \\111 cloud ) ou r sauet'_ You should l Ia\ t' 3holll 2 ('U118 of hqultl.

I)our the hquld 11110" small pot. reduce to ahout 1 cup, "mI 6lr.lln "' . 0. 1 , " 'O \,.l t

)/..

VARIAT I O N S

The IIlgrcdlcllhl for all of tht, \anallon� 3rt' adrlt'd dunng or afle:r Iht' addilion of the \ egclalJll's, dUring the IllIrd dt'gl;l1lng

:t O U A li

Add

leaspoon Squah Spuoc (pa�('

21'l) .... llh lilt'

\·cgetJhlt'li. V( N I )

,\fler tht· \'l'gclahles arco hgllli lo.:.ralllt'hu,tI, "dd 2

cups hucL.ldll'rnt·s (fresh or frolcn), l llC' hu(·L.lrhrrrlt''''

.... llI b,'H'1I

relt'alll' Ihclr Jllln's; lei thell) t'\:l l 'orah' ;I IHI rrglalt; Iht· pOI. Ihl'n conlllltu' \\ 1111 tltt· n'cIJll' Aflrr 11lC' \logt'lableIJ an' hf.;hll_� ('.lrJlllcillrll. atlt! I ,

oUllce Ih) Int' bpngb. 1 ('up cho ppc'd IOlllalOt'ri, Jlltl 2 1I1('(IIUIII dO\l:''' garlic. cnlliht·t1, ;lIld cooL. Ul1Ill lilt, J"ICt'ti of I hl' IOmalU a ... .... l'11 JIt l ilO'll' n'll',l!;t'd frOUl lllt' \l'gl'lahh-s l'\ aJlorah' 10 furlll ,1I1I1I11t'r �IJ74:' v "

Iltl' pOI \\llh 3'4 (,III. Ibn�lIh .. . bllt'rr.o \\hile' .... 111(·. or n·d \\ 1 1 1(' \ 1 I1t'gJr al lo.... lIlg Iht' iJ'IlI1I1 10 l'\apOrall' ,11ll1 n·g1.llI· Iht' l'ul llI'fllrt' WIIIIIlIIIII� (USt· .1 I ll gl t flu:lI ll) \ IlIf.'gar fur 1111' IIt'III l,lIlllng ".111((')

" , (h'g!."" Ihl' PUI \\Jlh ' « (,U)I n,IIl�111�. \ I nt'gar ant! I t l'UP plu�

...hnr)

.... hll'· .... HIt'. IIf n·d \\111"

2 t:lhl,·"I Hltlll.... "f "U�Jr

or hllll" �

,1II e1

.111".... IIII'

1ltl 'Ild to t'\.l l 'ur,llr ,lilt! n·gl.lIl· tJlf' ),01 hl'fun' f<lllllllUlflg hiM' ,1 11l�h '111.,111\ \ 111C"�.lr

fur til(' h.·...1 1 .1.... 1I11� hol\lC t') "' ... . t \

... t o

' J4

Powders

art' prllII.m h' ;a \ lIlual ,lc\lcr. to

male .1

,11,,1\ luok

po�lI("r I I M"atiOIiIi Iii" M I II.!h "JUU' .1I1I 1 11Irll IlIlrr.&(" " \\ l l h Iht' utter

aKJIH

lilt' pla

",,1It'1i I I II I

I�

it· 111 liar (Illal

prrlit'IIIJtHUI\ Jlliu,

.. hUI 1 '1.lh', Iht'" milt III lilt' )!: 1'H'''1i

Dun l l"; .1 I� I'ILII dlll lu'r

"II '

•

I" "

.. ,-noll'r,

"" I I

\toT) \ullllllf'. ,UI

ndel III' rXl'IIiIiK

IHI\!'

"' I IHlt, IIpU.'f·,

t the Prcllch 1..:3U ndry. we make IliclC powder. by putting the Jlulp

pan. Rtp�1 the: blanching procc88 two morc limc8. Dry the zests on

or purfe of ... given vcgcI.3ble on 3 baklng llhetl and sClling it above

pllper lowcls. Unc 3 microwave I ray with a picce of parchment papcr and

the oyens, where the temperature hap llt:n8 lo be perfect for dry'"&" il. I I

spread all the zcst cvenly on i t i n one layer. without mixing the different

would h e dimeult roryou to I ry t o rc· crc:tlc thil c::ffcCI a l home. 80 WC 'C

7.t:StS. M icrowave at medium powcr (or 8 10 10 minutes. orumil lhe ze&16

come up whh 3 way of IJlmulalillg the dfect uling II microwave Oven.

arc dried Oul. If one type of zc6t drics before thc olhers. remo\'c it.

Microwave avellA vary In power. 110 you nt.1y need 10 ;tdju81 lhe cooking lime" nceorlllnKI)'.

Once thC 7.C6t8 are dried. grind them all togcther in .1 coffcc gnndcr for scvcral Jluuutes. o r until 38 (Ille as possible. Sift the zest through 3 fmc·mcsh simmer. sti rring il wilh a spoon. to oblalll a finer powder

UOTt

If when you nrc grind ing:l vcgC:lahl c or fruit po\o'l·der. II seemti

Store in a scaled plOlstic container.

d:uJlp unci wall ', gfwd properly. return it 10 Ihe microwave. Microwave 011 low power (or I 10

M "' IC ( S

G I N l aous

' ... . l U �O O N

2 mlnUle8 ;1t .. lillie. until it III cOJOJllcldy dry. and

then regri nd.

MUSHROOM

POWDER

All of th ' J1f)wdt'� will kr'CJI al roolll tcmpcrallirc (or licvcral daYIi or JOIIKer. hut they hCKin to IOllc fl:avor and color a(tcr .. fc\<!' day.,

CARROT

POWDER

5 shIItake mushrooms ( I ounce), stems femoved Using a very sharp knife. cut the shiitakc mushrooms into paperw thin slices. Lltle:l Jt1lcrowa\'c Iray with :1 ()Jece of parchmcnt papcr and lay the

112 CUll vorv flnclv chopped COHots (d\Oppcd In 0 food ptoconof, Of uw tho pulp lof! oftef Julclno coffOf' In 0 Juicer)

mushroom slices on il lll a single h'yer. Microwavc on medium power (or 3hoUI 10 minutes. o r unili thc llIuShrOOnl8 1ook shriveled aud about half of their origlf)al size. I( the mushrooms arc not crisp, return 10 the

Sltu,'rye Ihe C.1rrOIK In a IOwrl or hlOi on papl'r IOweiK 10 remove exce88

microwave hrlcnYl lhey should he flilly dried hut should nOI brown.

lIIoIHIII"', J .hlt' n Illicrowavf' trBY with a piece of parclirncllI paper :lIId

COol lhc slices for a (ew 1I1IIlute8, then grind III a coffce grind 'r or

Kl 'rrjul thr c'arrolK on ll ill 'I thin. e\'C:ll lnycr, Mlcrow:&\'l' On low power for

8111 e b�illdcruntll the powder re8cmblc8 coarseJy ground black pepper.

Rlmlll

010 IIIlnutelf, Or lll1lll lhc.: C.1rrollf nrc cOIllJlletdy elned 0111. I.el rool

Do 1I0t gnnd thc powder 100 fine or it will nOI be lIotlceable on the plale. Siore i n a co\'cred plastic cont:Uller,

10 roOIll h'lII lu'ralllrl', Crlntl lhc carrolK 10 n I'u\<!'c!t>r III n cof(ccar Kplcc gnndtr, SlOre: III a

M "' IC ( S

... . O U I

I T ... . L t S � O O N

covrrcel plIlKIl<' container,

ONION

CITRUS

POWDER

'12 cup finely minced red onion (minced by hand or in the food processor)

'IA cup lullcnned monoo lent

LlIlc a 11IICrow:I\'C tray With a piccc of parchment Jlaper and spread the

'IA cup lull,,,,noo limo lcst

onion80n 11 111 a 111111, even Inyer. M Icrowa\'c011 medium power forahout

'IA cup lullar1rl(:d lamon lest

20 IIIll1uteH. or lIlItll Ihe 011l0nll arc completely clned OUL Lei cool 10 room temperaturc.

UHI'II I ' CKier In rC'IIICWe' 11I" 1e'KIH o(thr (flllhl ill a fllll' Jlllil'IUIl', Plnn' c'nch 1('PI' ill a HI' l,arate Hlllall l ':lII. reJ\'er wilh colc! walcr. anti hrlnK 10 n holl, Qllce III(' wnte'r iH al n boll . clmin llH' 1rlft nlui return to the

2Jl

Tha f l a n c h LCJI.lrld,y Cookbook

Grrllel the OIlIOI1IJ in a coffee or spice gruldcr Ulllll thcy resemhle the nakeH o( koshcr salt. Store III a covercd plaStiC contaillcr. M ... .: I S

... . O u ,

I ... . l C !I � O O N

T O MATO

P O W D E R

f [ H H E l

P O W D E R

'h cup finely chopped tomolo pulp (from a pcclt'd and �t'd tomalO)

SCl ueezc the tomato pulp 111 3 tawel to extract any eXC('88 mOl8turc. l..I ne a microwave tray wllh :1 piece of p:1rchmcnt paper alHI sf,read the

To:uu Iht' ((,lind Kt'('tI" III " lUII;tI1 I1L..l llrl O\'Cf low IIrat uII1I1 (fa�f"III,

10llialocson It l i l a thin. even laycr. M lcrowa\'c 011 low PO\\Cf for 30 to 40

Cruul th(' 1I('t'lh, 10 :\ (lilt' l'o,"" I Il'r in :l cofft'e' tlr t'1l1('C' j.trllulc-r, 51ft through 3 fllle IIIrllh dlfOlmer. I1tifn,,): '" Ith n IIPOOII, tort' in a ('o\'ert'li

minutes, Of unlll the pulp IS complddy dned out but mall1t:1lllK lis

p131i1iC (,OIl1311l('r

COIOf, Let cool 10 foam temperature,

"' ... .. 1 \

Cnnd the dned pulp III 3 coffee or spice gnnder UIlIII 311 fmc 38 possible, There mly be some PICCCS that do not breaL.. up. 80 '"" hen au

D R I E D

.'OU'

' . U I ' P'O O H

H O R S [ tt A D I S ti

(eel the powder IS 3S fille 3S II Will get, 111ft It through 3 (lilt' mesh str.uncr, sllfnngwuh 3 spoon. Store I n :l con'fed pla8tlc COUl:Ullef "" . .. 1 $

.'ou, I

' ''' U ( l P' O O foi

Drain the hOnit'ralll811 UII I)3 1l('r 10\\('18 to ('XI fact t'\'l'C'" Ilmil1ll1rr 1.1111' a B E E T

IIHCfO\\3\ C tra' \\ lIh

P O W D E R

p'(,l'r of " ar('hlllt'llt P" I lt'f ItlHI IIPft'11I1 Ih,'

hO�t'r;HJlldl on u m a thill, l'\rll l" l'fl 11') liz cup finely chopped beet (chopped In 0 food prOCCSlor, or us.c the pulp left after lulclng beets In 0 lulcer)

ftl'r(,:lIl lhr 8hrl'tl" I1 It:tn Aft

IIllieh 1111 pOluuhle. M,CfO\\.\\,t' un 1o,"" p","" I' r (ur 12 to 1 5 mllllllt'll. IIrlllllli tht' horKerallJlII1 Iii ('olll l,lrll'l th),. lA't l'unl to room I t'I11)1('r;u II 1'1', Iltt'lI 1i10f(' In a ('(J\ ,'rl'd "Ialnu." ront;"UII('f

Blot the beel pulp \'dlh papef 10\\(:18 to extract exct'ss moisture LUle :1

"" . .. 1 ' . ' O u '

I (o l ll l . O U ' ' ''' U t l P' O O foi

nlICfO,"" ,'l\'e If:! \\llh a Jllece of pardllllciit paf)c�f and spr(,3d th(' "('('Iii on It 111 a t1UII. even 13yer, Mlcro\\a\c on 10\\ po,"" c r for 30 to -10 II1111Ulel1, or

SQUAB

SPICE

unlil ihe heelli arc completely tined out bUl litll1 malnlaln Ilu:lr color. Lei the bcels cool 10 room tcmperature, Cnnd tht' hecis to

PO,"" CiCf III a

co(fce Of spice gfillder, Store III J ('o\cntl plabllc COJllallu:�r

'I.. It'''' cinnamon, lxo� lnlO ,"\011 J>'«n t lobleipoon coriond(."f \t'Cd, t 1f2 teaspoonl dO\o'Cl 2 lobfMpoom quol,,, �plct'\ (fout lP'CC powder, l.f.."d

M U STARD

I tablespoon blac.k mu�lord leeds

1 tablespoon yellow mustard lCCd� Crulll thl' IIHIIH:ml liecds togcther 10 11 fillt' I'0,"" tlt'r IU a ('of(t't' or lipll.'t' gruuln Sift through a fllle IIIt'fih IIlr,IIJ1Cr, l'lllrfln� ,"" Jlh a fi lHJon SlOr(' In � l'(J\crc�d pl:llItl(, ('OIlI:Jancr "' . , , , ... . O u l

Sou,cm, poQO 3 t 5)

2 tob!e\poot1l Woc" JX'PIlC'COfnl

P O W D E R

I ' ''' U I S P' O O h

1'0;1"1 lh(' CIIIJI:lIIIC)I}, wfI.llltlt'r. "'m't". allli ' 1 l11urr f l'lt'('" III a ""HlII _L.. lllc'l lI\rr 10\\ ht',ll lIlItll (f,l�r.11I1 fmrl)' �flllli llu' tu:lli!r11 1i 1IlU'" '"" 1111 tht, IiLlrk flt'l'l'rr III a 8J1lce' !If corr('r �fII)ll,. r 51ft thmIlKIi :, (111(, llIt'tlh Klfo1ll1t'r. IiUrrIllK willi n IIlltJllJl IOr� 111 3 IIf'JIt'cl UII1I.llIlt'r ,II fUC1I1l 1t'lIl l'f'r;Hllrr IIr IlI tllf' (rrf'/c'r. U IIf' til luah 111"«(' irrH"ul lU 101'\1' .Oltl,. uf IlIi IlIh'Utill)' aflrr ,I (t''"'' Ila),,, fre'c'/t' fl)r hmgrr tllflr"Kr IUlll lltif' Illrl'( I I) fmlll lhr (rrt'/f'r.) " . ' 1 \ . ' O U I III

CUP

', h O I

2lJ

The

Composed

Cheese

0 U r 5

When I opened the French r....lundl)'. it was clear we didn't

IllIve the space to roll a cheese C.lrt around the room. Bul J like cheese and w:lIllcd to SCn'C it. Tr;ulilioJlal French licrvicc includes cheese, 80mcdncd and frcsh fruit. somc brcad. I thought "Why 1101 put thill all logether on individual plnlcs to begin with?" So when the rcslaur:,"' opened. I offered IwO cOlllposed checsc pl:lIcti. one of them the Brie with halsamic vinegar and Tcll ichcny ['t'pper. Totl:Jy the chcefic courfie h38 illl own station in the kitchell, requiring its OWII chef. 1 ' 111

r.1 11 of all Cl!ccHC8. even ChcddarIJ, We gel :111 amazing Chcdthlr frolll a farmhouse i n

Wilico'lIi1n. Chl'cRt, )UUi rcally come a 10llg w,,), III Arncric.l. Proper French cheesc Ncn'ice was a uow'hy all rC'('e'ully {lil ihe lalt" 1 9708, And 1I0W ....C·\'c gOI countlcHsAmcnc:1I1 cheese makers ('rcallJlg ('xedlenl ('hce8eB. II make'" 111(" IUl I 'I'Y; iI 's a" if wc' rc fIlially 'Hilling logelher ail ihe pieces of whal 1�lIroJ lt';'IIl and French CII18lJ1C III 311 abOll1.

236

The rronch Lnundry

C o o lr. b o o lr,

" . . •

----...:::..! :: .... - ..

\V h l p p('d

131" 0

de Mt'u l I x {'n J7('lIllle ll' w i t h Te I J J c h c-.·.·y Pe p pe .· n n d B n hy l\1 ilChc

12 ounces rfpo Briol chilled

hl8

Freshly oround T4!lIlcherry pepper (tee page ISO)

III " very Himplc. deg.1n1 way to IiCl'Ve .1 familiar cheese and was.

almos1 38 i f you were Ict l i ng l l evapor3te, J fyou boil il lOO hnrd, lhe ntid

I hcgtlo composcd hecse counCil, Not only did J wa nt

will remain and make tht glaze too sha rp, Rcducing it slowl), nnd gentl),

In {riCI. how

10 COfllPOHC a eli Inlo nn

FI�r de �I

In a squeeze boNia

1 2 thin ,UCC1 baouette

I Cup boby m6chc

8oilomic Gloze '" Po<! vnne Gloze (,cdpe follows),

ExHO vlroln olivo oil

CIIC

eounsc. hut f ailio w.1 n l d 10 manlpulale: Ih e cheese

elegant form. Uric is cre.nny and cream wh i ps-th erefore .

I rtb'll red. I could whip Unt:. :tnd it worked . Ue Hure 10

USe:

resuits In a much softcrt38tingglal.c, I t 's casiesl lo cont rol l h heat wilh Ihe a id o( a he'lt diffuser,

3 \'ery good.

riJlc. cre.1my Urlc In Ihlll dish. Wlll ppi ng m:.kcli I I light and luxurious.

Ifcal lhe Yineg3ror pan 1Il :l hC:l\'}' saucepan over medium heal unlil 8lcam

,'ven HurprlalJlK' You recogll llC: the nnvor of nnc, hUI here, L c use the

(Jscs (rom Ih e l iquid , Pbce th e saucepan on n h eal diffuser and lei Ihe

ell cae I Il I IKhl and au}'. Ihal navor IS pl c3sn nlly Oul o( contexi Olnci f('cls

liquid reduccvcry slowlY (lt shouldn't si m mer) for 2 t 0 3 hours, unl1l ll h35

nt'w, cHl'cclnlly Ila l red wllh Ihe IlPICY p pper '1nd dcllcaw greens,

reduced and Ihlckened 10 n s)'nap)' gla7,e, TIlCre should be npproxirn:l1e1)'

Ucmovc IIII' rirlll fro lll lh Urlel)'ou Will h ave aholll

hottle al room te rnperal ure (o r g3rnlsl 1 1 ng plnlc8: if the gla/.c is too IIlIck,

n oun eti of Irllmned

'/2 cup of balsamiC glaze or It. cup of pon gl:l7c. Keep Ihe gla7e In a S{I UeCIe

Urif'. PUI IIIf' cold chef'lic in jl JllIxrr wllh I h e paddle allllChrnf.'1l1 and Ileal

warm l hc hottle III hot walcr 10 looscn Ihe gla7..c,

ral IIlt'dIUIII ISI 'C!" CI . H rapi ng do\\'n Ihe lIulcH (rorn l ime

" C f U IL I O 011 ' A G t 2 3 7

10 lime. (or abo u l

U S l tl " ... . " I G A II .

1 0 111111111(,11, 1111111 I I If' chN'Hf' ll1 very w h it t' and crf'MUY,

PhU'f' 11 film uf 011 111 a large skillet and nih e:lch Hull' of hre.ld on hlllh Hlele'" 111 1111' 011. Pla f' U\'cr med iulII lat'3t imd ook 011 cach IiHle unlll gol df' l! hrown. I 10 2 lIIil1llU''', Hf'JI10Vt' (roll1 III(.' heat .

C R O U T O N S

SC lllcr1e the h:lI";lIIII<' or purl gla/f' in IlII X or otilt'r deAlgn on olle Hide of f'(wh I 'IIIIC'. f�orlll a IJllf'lwllf.' (IiCl' pagt' 2701), or IImall O\'ai licoop.

Boouette Of other bread, cui Into thin �lIc�,

of tilt' Uric' (alJOut I 1 .l lll clipoon) arul JlI:lcc II III the ('e n ler of one p lalc,

or Brioche (page 258) ,ounds or triangles,

Sprillklt' wilh pf'pper and allglr a croulol l OJ} top, An gl e anolhcr

cut '/" Inch thick

fl llf'lwllf' uf Urlf' ()\If'r tilt' l' roulon, IiJlrlllklc \\ li l a Iwpl 'c'r, and to ll with a

Extro ...I'o'n ol....c 011

Hf:CUIHI ('rulilon , nl' I"'ift with the rC IIHl I lI IIlg Urlf' nnll croutonll,

Ko�hcr soh

TORti t i ll' fIIhcht, \\ lIh a PHlHIII amounl of olIY(' Oil, 1'1:lc(' n tllIlall Jl lie of

IIlnchc' fll lhc Hldc o( r;I('h IiC'l'Vllig of chf'C''''' and IIJln n k l ' thC' grl'cnl1 wilh

Prclical lhc oven to 300°F,

nC'lIr dc Iif'l.

rOR

CROUTONS

FOR

CH EESE

COURSES

AND

O T tt E R

DISHES

Place Ihe sl i cs o f hread o n a ha k lng shcet :lnti drinle o r brulih wllh n

l i llie 011\'(' OIl. S p rl n kl BALSAMIC GLAZE

O R

P O R T

WINE

GLAZE

rOR

2 CUP' bollomlc ...loCUm or por1 wino

Ilglllly wllh kos he r 6:lh. lkake (or

8RIOCHE CROUTOla

rOR

rOI[ GRAS

(\'ollhOIlI a ny 011) on n haklng "h('CI :lnd hake (or

unlll a n e\'ell go ld t' n IIro\\ lI.

We liKe �hll('" "f"'11 111 111f' chf'e'lit' COllrli(', al\'oayli "ll:a nnHly, her:llHiC Ihey Me 110 hllt'IIHC'. Wht'll lIlakillg n

2lll

The r,ench Laund,y

C O O H IO O �

llu'ga r or \'o'I IIf' gl:m", reduce II IIlowl)'.

10 to 1 5

1I1111111C8, o r UllliI :1II even goldcn hrO\w,

510ft, all roll lO n8 III ;Jlnlj,;hl COlllalllCni.

Arrange lilt: croutons

1 0 10 15 mln ules, or

A � h c...' d C h t,'\'I'e n u x w t l h S l ow ' H n l \ � t t'd Yt' l 1 u w

( , h n t H I I·t't· w t t h

n n d Ht'd I l t · ( · t s n n < l Hl'<I n('l't V l n n lgl't'Ul'

I cup red bcc!1 luke (from about 1 POUnd beet'.

C LOV[ O I L

Of purcho� from 0 health food 'tOfO)

1 lablespoon c�

I teaspoon red wine vinegar

VJ cup coooSa Oil

1 to 2 yellow bee" at lcost 2V.. Inchc1 ln diameter (enough to ylcld

, LU M S

twelve Va·inch slice,). scrubbed

6 ,rd �um�

1 to 2 red beets (enough to ylcld thlrty·six 1 .lnch.long botons. sec

Ht'<l P 1 U 1 \ U ' .

(,lu\" "�l" ' l \ h .\ t l 0 1 1 . 1 \ 1 \ < 1 l .n l l\ H U t4 t'i U

t teaspoon mlnerd ,ummer KM)fY

poge 203). scrubbed

Ko\h« ",h

107 cup 1010 rouo (or 01her g,een,'

2 tablespoons canolo oil

Extra virgin ohve oil

Kosher solt

Ulro \1'01" oIrvo 041

6 ounces ashcd Chevrcoux or olhcr asked ooat cheese,

Ko\her salt

01 room temperature, cut Into 6 wedge, or portions

h."O\poot\' minced chtves

6 OUnc6 Choou rce. Camembert, Of bplofOh.our,

II, cup baby beet greens

cut Into 6 wcdgei. at room tempe,olUle

Boc' Powdo' (pogo 233)

FOR

TH[

ll [ [ T

GLAZ(

lIeat till' bee:! lUll'(" to a simmer III

IUIl:t1l

IHHlcc llan :Ind cook unll) lhefe an' ):trg'" liuhbles (ofllllng:tl lht·IOp. Alit) Ihe rcd wi lit' vinegar and redure until I Itt' 1 "1'111.1 ha� a t.. ril ') l

hlouru' t� ;a

.1 uu hl r (fe.lfn

' '·0.... It lIul}"

('lIrrN" (1IUllhl" l'rt':U"

COllt:,,"M 50 10 (10 Jlt"U't'1I1 (;.1). \ rl) III!ll'W"" I ht" \" .l lntt" hllIUIllt'r

"ulli. \\h .. lI l 'hIllIM arc' harH'I'It"tI If ,Oil LIII'I fllul If) IlMllg a �ooll c., "ll.'rnhrrt or f'\ t'U r\pIUf.lll'ur,

h,Ullln·C'. )1111 III1Kht

COIlSlstt'IiCY. Pour 11110 a 8l11al1 s'Iueclc hUllle 'luaflll lhl' rlll\" " 11I a "",,,11 1I}.. 11It'1 U\f'r 1IIf'111I1t1l

Prl'llt.·at llu; O\'CIl 10 300° F

fO� THl

Wf:lp 111(' )cllo.... btl'IS alHl n'd heel!) s(" parald 11\ alulIlIlIlIlII fall.

ht"a1 l1l1tll fr..�ralll 1'1I1t'1 Kfllill III,' l'1mt'" III

adding 1 t:lhll'spoon of Ihl' callula 011 10 t'aeh Hoahl fOf 1 1,2 10 2 houfb, Of t'oo}..til IInls CUI Ihl'

,I tilllr..

KrllI!!" f ur cofft'('

11\ .... Ith Ihl.' ull. l 'l:",:(' III J �1 1 "1" '/t" bUll It'. IHlll lt'l lhl.' n,l\I1I mfUMf'

111111

(or ;l It:., llt· fun· tlfll l IlJ.:

unlll 1I1l" art· Ic ndt· r.

"cd th(!

C 'l V l

(·110.... IWl'hi 11110 1\\ t'l\l' Ii. IIIfh

llli

fO.

�C'J1:Ir;,1t' till' nr"h frulll lhr lilt II ( "HluI- Pht, nt'tih

Pipe bOllll' hl't'l glalt' III dOlh of 11t'('rra"lII� hllC' .1.) .... n

off In I .... u \1·rIH.11 1I11I t"It. tllIl' 1111 t',I1 11 hllh· uf tl", IHI CUI Iht· IU" ("'" Cff)I'IfII.... 'M· IlIto I . IlIth ",II( f'tt (Ihr I'w, ,. " .... 111 1)(+ h•• lf l'In-lt'M) ln�lt lll('1II .... 1I1t Ih .. Mllllllwr K.H O". a 1111 If' I I I till" tim I"' fill. ,11111 ",.11t 10 t.I"If' Pl.&' .. .1 1 !Ill II fllIK IIIIIItI (.(01"' SClllft"t'K, I I.IW· ' I �) 1111 till" IiN'IIIK

Ollt' hltll' of t';I('h pI.Ut·. Plart' a rOllllll uf,dlo.... hl'C'1 111 tilt, (" 'III1'r o( t''&l h

plaIr' 1 ..I�t·r lilli' Ku,llI IIf Ihr' ",lit t'rI IIf p1uIII III IIII' r l IIK. U\ rrl.lJlJllliK I ht,

of )'t'lIo\\ IlI'l'l , 1..1) a \\ l'tI�t' o( rllt't,,,t' ()\ " r " .11'" ,,111 c'

Plr'( r'K ,1IIe1 .... ur}.. l II� HI .l " Iftu!.,r I t.lth'fII . .... Itll Iht" "LIII Mlllc' uf lilt' ) 1111111 (,llIliK (1111 (l llI'fr .... 111 111' a hoi,' hi till' 111141111,' ) l l fl IIf( IIII' ftll� fllld

sllces. lhl'1I CUI Ilwlll h ll h •• ('\llltf 11110:'. Inch nl1llHiI, tit I ht, n'll ht't'l � 11110 36 lJa lo n� almu! I Illch long IJ) I . lIIet. IllId.. St'JI!OOIl .111 tht" "rc'l� \\ I1h a hltll' 011\ (. 1111 and halt TO

Ct' ., ..

plait· Top cal'h .... l1h (, fcd h" t'l h:ltoll!\ 1.lIcl "ult, II) IWIt· alld .lIlUlh .. r fi!J('('

TObt� Iht· b" t'l f.:rc'('IIK .... 1111 a IlIIll'lIl1\c' oll ,lnll h.llt SI.ll}.. .1 1'>111.111 1 '11" of grn'lUi Oil t·.le h roulld \\ c·clgt, of dwrb(' ,lIul llprtll}"I,' tht' pl.llr;., \\ HII ht'l'l l'm,tJl'r

fI'p":'1 \\Itll tt... rrlll.ltnlllK 1 '1.11r'I'> C

'l u"" tllf' lul:t rrll'l�.I \\ lIh l h.. rllI\,· • . ;a IIllIt· IIII\r' Hll . lIl1d

1i.&11 Ifl I.&"tc' l\rr.I lI/o:'· 1I1I1l1I "11U11I 1 "1'1" flf 1,·IIIUI"' If'.1\ ,.,. llllll til,lIlIl IIII'm 111 1111' 111111"1'1 111 Ilu" " fllrr Ilf tIll" plulII" �t'&IIII .1 .... " dW· u( , 111" ',,1' ul llII' IIlIlt· uf r.1I h hllU4 1 111'1 Stl'lI'flf' '& MII.III ,11111111111 uf ( 11I\r fill urtlulIIl 1111" (',IKt"1I fI( Ih,' pIUIJlI'I, I" I1I1I� II tlnllh' , 1 ...... 11 UIIIII II.,. "Ialf' �I('

�t

0 11

' ''' 10 1

1" I

... -

...

1 1 1 - " , ... w l , l l Utlill "'WI·"W-I'IUI'

" 1)I." ,,','j l'U l l l h l ' " I I I t I l I . I e l l l lll<

t l l l f h'I'IIJlIH'j" 'lnll'ch h" " .t, w i l l i " 11'1,' "" ·'·t I ' I I I· ... ... pillylll" of(

1 1 1 1 * Uflill

" 1 11'1· ...,·.

1 I I I',\"n' JIIM'

I,'... 1'0111',1 I I I wfUlll 11"111'". :" 1 1 1 1 " 11 1 1 'ifU'

2�O

Tho

"lllln... ,

" llnd" " 'III.

" II!f-h

I I I'C'

I l ( ' h l l l y or

" II I PIII'IIIII III I h l " IINh.'d CIa" \'I'C'IIIIX-

1IClcl c'olu,' 1 I 1 1 C 1 ,h' I U I I '0 Ih,' C'llI'c''''''-hul

1I 1 1�' unlll (·h,·I· ... '·.

f, e n c h lound,y Coot.boolo,

1111'

I"·,,,"

I--

CUl'Mli V,'(!ch J u w J t h S p J c(.od

S n l u l l n u ll G o l d e n R u l M J U P U l'loc

3/. cup �hrcddcd �wect bunch COrtots

If. cup carrot Juice (hom about I 'I. pounds

SPICE MIX

I I!, teaspoons coriander teeds

ecHOls,

Of purchased

2 teaspoons Brunolsc (page 155)

hom a

Kos�r solt

health food stoUt)

I tablespoon block poppcrcoms Ono 1 .lnch,1ong pfece cinnamon stick Of

CUI'I'OI

I '!' teaspoons ground cinnamon

I;' cup golden rolslns

6 sprigs chervil

Juice! of I;' lemon

COrtOl Powder (poge 232)

One 8·ounco wedi]e Corsu Vecchlu or Gr�re,

l/. loo,poco cloves

Emmcnthol, Moh6n, Of Petite Bosque, rind trimmed

(

or8U Vecch lu

IN a

'Willi hard SPMlIKh

sheep's nulk checse, 31JOU I

tht' cOIIHIHtt'ncy or Cnly�re, that h:u� a Il IHt i ncsK I

like, II works \'el')'

wt'll with "pICCH, "O we creillcd it "Wctl carrot "alild thaI wc scason with a

Place Ihe rai8in8 in a 8aucepan. Covcr co mp le le ly the lemon jUice, and simmer ror 2

Turn orr the heat and lel l he raisins sit in the liquid ror 3 few mlnule8.

"fllec' mix ond nclclecl u Kolden raisin (JIIrt':" Ihal links Ihe cOIrrotH and

Pl nce the rai81n8 in a hlender wilh enough or Ihe cooking liquid 10

chcc"c II feely, I ryou enn rllld II, MalilSn, anolllt'r Spanish cheese, would

a llow t hem 10 turn and blend t o a Jlurec. Sirain the purec t h rough a nne

work wc'lI

mcsh 8tralller.

ill thl" diHh,

CUlling

the ('11I!""c' IOto thin "licu ror "ervin"; .1110....' 8 morc :ur to

ci rculaw around l i t oxyw'n hrinl-;!i oul

tilt'

nnvar or c hcesc. 018 doeR Ihe

proper If' U1l 'cral u rc· . 'I'll(' (lcrrcCl lcUlI'CrnlUrc ror ,'lweHc is 65° 10 70°F.

CUI the cheese Inlo

30 thlll triangles. Arrange 5 tri:mgles i n a ran

shape. then rel 'cat l o make porllon8. TO

COMPLtTE

Comhine the shredded carrots wilh the carrot

reduction and Ihe hrunoisc

111 3 slI1all bowl. Season wilh salt 10 taste.

1I,'ai Ihl' s(lleu WHet her In a 8"'0111 ,'311 ul1l1l

Placc about I tablespoon of r31sin puree III Ihe center or each plate.

rragranl,

" Incl' Iu :c IIl' icl' l-;ri ml f' r nncl gri nci lo :l puwfler, You will have

Top each wllh a hayst,1ck orcarrOl snlacl. Set a ran orchcesc on lOp or c3ch

n l lolll 1 ' .'/,

lahll'lIllUflllR IIplce tlIIX. Slon' ln :U1 n l rt il-;h t cOlllnincr ror up to

carrot gal,H] and lap the cheese wilh a sprig or chervil. Sprinkle a line or

rOA TUt

Hlet MIX

n wel'k or III I I II! rn'c''''r for 10 1l(-;('r, SI,., l l I l l Ie rarrot Jllle(' 11I1O n ror oholll

8111(1)1 ":llIccpan. hri llg 10:l hoil, and h011

I 1111111111'. Skim orr the "(,1I11l 111n1 has rrlit'n 10 lilt' 1OI', IIIrain Ihe

Juice IIKlfin. olul Rl!IIlIIer for oboUI I () minulcR longer, uruntal n::duccd 10

I II, IU 2 tnhlc'li lwUIlK, Adcl n ,,11I(' h o f tllf' HJllee II1IX :1IIc1 l1ct agi d e.

242

with waler, add

10 3 ,"lnulcs. just unlil they plump.

T h . r , . n e tl L a u n d , y C a n l.. boo l..

c.1rrol l 'Owdcr down the sule or each 'ICfUUD

Oil

' '' (O f 2 .. ..

plate.

SAUERK RAUT

1 loble\poon \IIIhho \III�1"I43 v1neoor

C A "- A W A Y S [ [ O V I H A I G I U T T [

1 pound cabbage

V. cup plU\ 2 loble\poom 011\" oU

51fJ cups Champagne vinegar 51fJ cups crisp, dry white wine, such as Souvlg""" Blonc

VJ cup chopped onSons 1 \IIItW!'Cll l�ta do moh� (you \lllUI uw only 0 ,,0011

Ih loospoon coraway �s

Freshly oround

potllon of tho \IIIheel 'Of thl\ ,«Ipo),

b&oc.k Pt'PPOf

J/. cup sugar

1 lobtapoon she"y oArle9Or

top trimnk.'d, at

J/.. cup kosher soh

If.. toospoon dry mu\tord

I..') lC'capoon kosher loG!!, Of to to\IO

�'C

cle moine ("monk's hC3d" III French) IS :1 hard cheese from

temperaturc

01 foom tCOlI)ctfOluIU

6 trianguiar ,.,� lwcod Croulons (\.C6 pout! 238)

)/. loo'poon W90r

Switlcrlilnd, A special cutler IS used to sha\'e II 1010 \'cry 10llg 1IIIn

,oom

on 8.()Unca picco, cut Inl0 6 wcdOtls,

c.1hhagr

til

I('uder Iml not lIIu",h '. D ram an

rXC(,"''' 111 1'1111 from tllt'

Gu('rlr:HlI ami rdrtgrrJlc II unlll "'1I11t'11 'n,r ";'IIII:."rlr;m' \'I llI lr:rrp £ur

na(fles that arc folded IOtO;1 flower shape, It's hUllery, If you C:11\ unilglOc

up 10 2 \'I ('('l.

a hard chcese hemg huttery, hut there's also a Iiharpne61i to II , I ,'llr II with saucrkraul- c:lhh:tge Ihat wc'\'e m:tnn:lted and cooked In white

Glac(' ,.:m, "dt! colli �;tt('rIO cO\rr, allli hnll"; III OJ "11II1IlC"r, Guuk for jlhUlI1

winc and vinegar, 1f you don' t havc the speCial cUller deSigned for lI1a1ang thc

rosettcs, the dish C,1n bc I)rcparcd by cutting the cheest Into trtilnglca and f:m lllng II, as III the recipe for Corsu Veceillu ..... llh

PIC�tI Carrol

Snlad (page 242). As the cheese ages, II hecomclJ more cnunhl)', and If II gets too hnttle, II Will he dl££ICUIt to cut properly, Began the: 8aucrkraut five tlay� bdoreyou plan 10 servc the diSh,

fOR

T lH

C A R AWAY S U O V I H A I G R l T T l

to I1111\ule8, or uHul lhe olllon, .If(' \('1)

1(, lulrf Dr.un lhr IHlIOl1l1 !l1ll1

plact' 111('111 III 3 hlrntlrr Mt'al\\'IIIII(', loasl lh(' C:lra"'iIY �t"r,IPi III n KIIl:lIl 8klll('t 1I\'('r 1II1" llIIm 1t(,31 Ul11I1 rragranl S('t :1IU11(' I n :a stn31l 1K)",I, lUll toHrlhrr th... lihrrl)' \ I IIt'H"r, 1lllIlitnnl, 1LIlI, 31111

tiUgar, Sur 111 th� ",hUe- "'llIr vI JU'H.lr AII,I IIi(' IIIIXlurr tu tl l(, hlc,tuh'r :III,1 J1ur�(' £or ahout 2 1II11\1I1f'8, K(' r;tplIIg thr IUtll'K u£ tllr ( nlllnitwr 11K nrcu1i..uy, 111I1I1 11Ir JlII\turr ImK tltr ,'(IIIKllilrll

r O R T H E S AU E R K R AU T

Hcrnovc the core and IJllck nils from the

1'11\('r thr 0111011" III a

o£ h nil' If 11 Iii thltlrr,

,ltlel a Slll:lll 311IUUII1 uf \III .II('r In thlll Willa Iltr hlrrllir'rl)lI, tlrlllir III t)1I' uil,

cabbage and cut It into fmc chlffonadt, long narro..... stnps ahoUl I/. meil

Allll tit[' r,:ml\111 J Srf'Cltl lU ,ltr ItIrrult"r alHl hlrwl lu Krllul llH' HI'c',I",

wide (you Will h3ve aboul <1 cups of c3bhagc) . Put tht cahhagt' In a hO\'l 1

Str3111 th(' drrsllll1J.: 31111 adJllli1 Ihr tit'3Mmlll"; \111 1111 Hnlt 1£ IIrC't'KKnry allli

or other container.

pt'JlllC'r to IJlih' �torr IIi(' clrt'''lilll/{ IIl lhr rr£n!-:,-r:uur fur up IU I \III' r rk

ComlJIIle PI, cups e,1ch of the Cltarrtpaglll' \,lIll'gJr allel \'Illite \'l Int'

TO C O M f' L [ H

J( IIhlllt-: " ,'h" I'III' ('I1I1I'r, £"rlll rulll'W'" elf dll'rK" It

:lnd 3 tahlesJloons each of the sugar and salt In a sauctpan :lrttl lml1g to a

IIIrnlllg Ihr cu"rr :tJwut CHlI' 011111 a IHllf IllIIrK antllrul 1'11' "hre'Pir £ur

ball Hemo\'c £rom the heat and It'l eool 10 roOnt temperature

{,Jeh rotor'ltt'

Pour lilt: Itquul over the cahbage, (,OH'r, 3ntl rdnJ;c-ralt' for

I'I:ut'

hJlou"ful llf VIII I!-:rrltr' In Ihr " '-UI,.r ,,£ (',1I'1t I'U'n'IIIH plult-,

24 hours, Drain Iltl' cilhbagl' 111 3 IitrJlIler anti nllbl' \'IlIh collI \IIIalt'r

PI,:I('t' a IiJllJllllful uf Ii,lII,.rlr,1U1 1U flllr IHI!t· I)f thl' VlIH1IW,' tt,. ,IJIII pml' II

Hepe;1t the rnilnrl:lllng process three more IIIIH!b

erouloll " '.1111111 11, "rltll1'; tltr frflutOIl III tlir lIIultllr fir Illr platr I'larr n

On the £1£11t day, preheat the o\l'n 10 275°11 Drain and ntllit' the cahh:lgl' alld plact' H an " haon.; l dllih , Cmcr Ilu {llsh Wllh a ltd or alullllllulI1 £011 :uul hakt' £or 2 10 3 Ilour", or ulll1l lht'

fUarllr

fir \OIrll,.;r elr, hrrllr UII IIII' OIhrr lilli" flf (" Idl {'mullin ... " . , s

6 \ I II V I II {. \

244

T h o r O l n c h L a u n d , y C o o lo. b o o lo.

2"6

T h o F r o ndl L a u n d , y

C o o lo. b o o k

The

I m portance

of France

After my mother died. I determined to own my own restaura nt. Rene and Paulette would not sell me an i n terest in La Rive. so I went to New York City and worked as apoisson a n exciting. dynamic kitchen with !;alenled )'oung Fren('h chdl. lIere

llier (fish cook) at The Polo Restaurant .

Ihill I ,",'ii' ",dl hfTOuntird in m)' prorulIloli. Now I ('ould fOt'ull on dt'uullli

saw composed plates (or the (irsl time. All thc 5.lUCC8 ",,'ere reduction•.

I could Ie-lim Ihe roie gl'311 lorchon, I rouhl I"am ho\\' 10 nlraet

and it was my first experience working within 3 IJ01tiiliol131 French

chlorophyll from gret'n \'egetahlell 110 th31 I couhl l11:'1ke :t fillill Ie-rrinc

brigade system. That job cvcn1Ually launched me to Paris. ,,'here I "'orkcd 11\ hOlIf :I

cooleru it. I Ie.trned how 3 hre-381 ofblllh .. ('ounlr), 1I1)'It" one IWI lIt'm-

dozen two- and three-Slar restaurants for ;1 full year. It was in Fr:lIIcc

could he preJiurtl 311d sen'ed III n wily llatH walli lUlIiBfyingtilltl wonhy o f tI

that I concluded my self- styled apprenticeship. In theBc greilt French kitchcns-Taillc\·cnt. Cuy 53\'0)'.

:mtl Pr�

When I rClUrncu

10 Ameri(,3 "fler u yrar. I hcg;m ",'hilI "" jill III effccl

Catalan among thcm-whal l lc3rncd once ag3in \\'38 respect for foot..! . bUI

m)' IIcuch for my 0\<1 n

here it had 3 new depth and dinu:nsl0n. TillS W38 3 society Ihat

I h:ul IiCCIi III Ihe �orgeou8 1"lHlllcaJlc;1I or Franct". 111t' JlltllllelH I lIrhcIII

reinforced and amplified everything I'd bcgun 10 le3rn on my own.

Ihe Frt'lIl'h l.;&tIIHlry, IIl lhe KJlrlnguf 1')92.

And il lumed out Ih3t W3S 3 101. Just short ofthin)'yc3r8 old, I round

WORKING

WITH

L:. UI\'r' , fur Ihe kllul of thrt'c IUltr relUllurnnl lhll1

I kll(,\o<I' I'd ('ollie to Iht' rllli of

Ihe Journey. Or Ihe' hCgllllllllg. Ilcpelullllg on Iso\<l' )'ou look nt II.

C H LO R O P UYlL

Chlorophylls Jrc Ihe pib"lllenlS in green

one pan caeil p3niley and \<I"!('ferns. IhouJo;"

1It'.1I1'

vegelahles and herhs. 1110ugh eXlracted

n"vor III nol :m IIUiUe: here), 1)llIct' 3 ('ollar of fOil

h.we: elrurl sr lulralrll, llihork the nllxturr hy

AY. KOUII IUllhr "":& Ier {l11I1 rhluro llhyll

chlorophyll can be n3vored, Ihe rcason for

arountl lhc ule 80 you don', gel S l'3l1cre'd \<IlIh

extracting It 18 to color rood or 3 sauce green,

gtCt'Ii. You ('all lllliO PUl6C tll(' grt't'lIh III I I fuuel

lIot l'lO IIHlrh thllt ou're: Irfl '" 1111 fa lUI uf Ict'

panlcularl)' thi ngs you w3nt 10 cook. guth 38 3

prOC(,8sor, hUI UOII'I IHlr�t' 11It'III. AIIII :II '"a,,1

('uhrs In 11a(' Jim Sirain till' IIc llwl lhrouHh tI

:Hliling Ir", JUI'II ellough 1(,1' IU coul il "0'0'1'11 hili

fish mousse, tuncc chiorophyll st3Ys green

four 1I111C'1I ali milch watcr 10 )Ullr grollllil IotH·t'IIK

1i!COl111f'r hllf'11 "" II I t !J kltrlirll lfl"""l ur a c10lh

through cookln/{. At lhe French I..lundry. we 3dd

31ul lei Iht'fII Ko:,k IlI lhe rdragrrawr ovrrlll�hl

il to herh It:lUCCS ror helghlr. ned vlliual llllp3cl.

n311klll IA'I thr Ilf lulll Ilrain ow'nllght.

51r3111 111e II(I"IU IhrOlIHh 3 Chlll:& (,3 1' IIIIU a

3nd to cream say, a parsley cream for fl!�h or 3

pall, 6'1u('cllng36 much U1U1hItJrr Uh pU"hlhlr

Jlurr rhlorllphylll II "'llI llIok IIkf' an ;I rt II"'" nit

watercn:ss cream ror \'(:31.

rrolli lhe grrenli Urll1H IItr hC1 11li1 In a '1lIHllrr,

pallll liI'IIIf'f'/rll "l r..lght rrorn llir lIIitf', Urmov('

hllrrlllg cC)llllnuotilily You \<IllI lirr Ihe

It 10 3 J3r IInlil rr:llly If} Wif' It 111111" he' Wit'li

chlorophyll bCp3rJIIIIg fcorn Ihe \<I:tlrr all II

wllhan a llay fir IWH, ur II "',lI llrglfl 10 "I'cul,

To cXlracl chlorophyll, push your greens through a grander ( J ulie IWO pans KIII1l3Ch :1011

'I hI' nrll day. ),011 "hnult' h'lfl w )'ollr cifllh

'J' II J.:

( ' I I E Jo; H I': M A I{ Jo: It I

C I H D y

e It.. L L It.. H It.. H

·It I ovor 001 doprouod," says Cindy

sooson and wlnler rains have been pounding

hobby. Soon she hod more lomb Ihon the

Callahan, ", 00 sll on a stump and walch

the entire coo$l of Collfornlo. Some lambs are

family could usc. So she called Chez Panlsse,

my lambs. H

too weak to nurse outdoors, so Cindy has

the Berkeley restaurant famous for supporting

brought th�m Inside 1111 the woather Improves

small formers, and they began to buy lamb.

and tho babies are s" ongcr.

Cindy read about certain cultures that raised

Cindy, a formor otlorney, slu In tho dlnlno room of her ranch hOUSG In Valloy Ford, Sonoma County. Hor Ion Drott pops Into the

"Sheep oro not very smart, they Just oot

baby lamb ond she began seiling these to

opon kltchon, rotrlovOI somothlng from tho

and tond their young," Cindy says. "But thore's

Collfornlo restaurants.. But It wasn't until a

ftldgo, says, "HI," and doports Molmtream

somethlno very calming about them "

friend visiting the form roved about the

mlddle·clon IIvlno. It would utem, axcopt for

148

A 'I' 'I' () It N I': "

When Cindy and hor loto husband loft San

splendors of sheop's milk yogurt thai the

tho fact thot Cindy Is cradling a lomb, foodlno

Fronchco for the bucolic hills of Sonoma,

Collahons began to wonder If they didn't hove

II milk out of a largo boot bOlllo. It's lomblno

Cindy bought somo shoop, more or len as a

something evon more voluoble and creotlvely

Tho F r o n c h l o u n d r � Coo"boolo.

satisfying Ihon lomb rolsed for It� meat They

Cindy �oy� Ihol they make chee�e for the

milk hom their sheop and horn Joney cows

hod as a by-product gallons and gollon� of

some reason Ylnlners make wine ·Why do

They make Ihree diller"nl choeu" flam unch

sheep's mllk.

people make wlne?- �l1e says "Thero', Ihe

milk. and Ihoy mo\..a ricollo from Iha whay, or

,clence of II, bul above Ihol, thertt', the

liquids, left oyor 'rom eoch milk

When Ihey learned thai one of their

·1 IIko sheop's milk chceun bocouso tho

foyorlto chee!.es, Roquefort, was mode from

creotlylty of It .. Tho Callahan,' chee�e I!.

sheep's milk, they knew they hod to �tart

handmade and yorles sUOhlly from �oo,an to

making cheese. After a trip to Italy In 1992

season I n Iho summer, the milk londs to bo

to Icorn obout cheese moklng, they beoon

hiohor In protein, In wlnler, hloher In 'ot

mainly to keep the oron .hort Within 0

fashioning what thoy hoped would be the main

Theu� factors In!l uenc., the ft!\ulling cheese

decode, tht) Callahan. hod built tho tint shcop

They produce from sJ. hundred to oloht

dolry In Iho stote and ,huy now hoye 0 Ih,lylno

product of Bellwether Form Son Breit lend� the sheep, son Llom moke, the cheese

hundred pounds of cheese a weok from Iho

floyon oro \0 complo_,· soys Cindy I n 1986, Cindy hod bouoht hqr lomb.

tA R

p,·co.' I I t o 'J'OHCIHIO w i t h JlonHtctJ Sweet PCPPCJ'H n n tJ A J ' u g' u l n

'/. cup lullenned (II. Inch .hkk) ,oone<! yellow

ARUGULA COULIS 1 cup kmher solt

One 4·

peppe"

oullH

to 6·ounce wedge pccorino Toscano

or other pecorino, rind removed

I I;' CUPl (6 OUncct1) orugulo

) It, tobtCSpc>Oni extra virgin oUve 011

It, cup baby oNgulo

1 1/2 loblcnpoonl axlto vlrg'n olfvo on

2 tcospoons balsamic vinegar

Extra virgin olIve 011

ROASTEO PEPPERS

2 fCOSpc>Oni minced chfvcs

Kosher solt

1/4 cup julienned (1/4 Inch thick) roosted red

Komer salt

Balsamic Gloze (pagc 238), In 0 squeeze bottlc

6 C,ou.on,

pepper'

(sec poge 238)

e Herve IhlN Italian Illyle sheep'lt milk checat in an halian stylel

the tip around the plate to form the dotted line. (This takes 3 little

on crwHini with raRllled hell peppers and a pur�e of arubrtda. We

practice; just 3dju8t lhe angle of the bottle :lIld Ihc prcssure exerted until

USt the C:lllaharllt' nrtiHilU checse.

you achicve the desired effect.)

hut you could usc any pecorlno.

Place a spoonful of ambruia couliB in the ce,Hcrof each ring of glazc. r O R T It ( A R U G U l A C O U L I S

Brlng ,(l gallon of

water to a boil in a

largc pot. Ih("n add Ihe Rah :and brenK to a rolling hall. (The water needs

Top c.1ch with a portion of the roastcd peppcrs, a crouton . .. md a fan of cheese. Garnish c.1ch fan of checsc with a stack of baby anlb'tila salad.

to 1)(' hailing rapidly to UHllntaln the holl once the arugul3 18 added.) Add the

M A lt t s 6 U . v U .j G S

'Inlguln nrld cook for 5 to 1 0 minuteR, unlll the stem8 arc tender.

Drnin i llf! nrllguln nlill

place In an ice - waler hath to chili.

ROASTED

nrugull1 from IIIf' waltr anel sll u tl.c out the CXCCIiH Wille'r. Place' I lie' nrll Kuln I II n hltndrr Wllh JWU cnouKh Wolter lO allow it to

Bell PCPPCI'l

hlc'nd ,t Illl

Olive Oa

PEPPERS

HCnlovr lilt'

blend to a Jlur�t'. Spread the purt:e on a

HUniS (sec

Jlage 73)

II110w 10 811 for !i rn l llulcH 10 dralll any cxceHH 1J'luid. Discard tht

nl1l1

liquid and P;INR Iht' IllIrl-c hlencil'r.

through the tamiH :1IIc1 then rtturn it

the

Acid tilt' oliy,' oil find hl t nel w,·II. Hcmove to n container. 10 IIH" ii , or for up to a few hourli.

Hdr1w'raw ulIllI YOll l1 n' rr.uly

rOk

TlH

ROASTeD

PEPPCRS

JlI'JlJlcrfl logctlll'r In a KUlnll

An hour Irefore S"rvlllg, tOIJlJ the

IOlnl of :�O HlicCH. I':nn the tilicrli in () j,trouJls o f S "IlCCR ("ach,

COMPL(TI

TORti tht' hnhy I1nJhfllln wllh olIve' 011 and 831t to t:Ullt,

SIIIIe'c/.e 1\ rhlK of IwhmlTlfc gln:tc clo ts

250

favorites. The peppers keep for weeks in

baking sheet with foil . Cut thc peppers discard the while ribs and seeds. Unlsh the

Prehcat lhe m'cn to 350°F. Line 11

Uliingn IIlnndnllJll'. cui the "eeonno Into thin I nnnb'ular SIICC'h YOU wlll 'H'ed n

prcpamlion III one of my very the rcfrigcralOr.

howl with the al l , vinegar. chi\'CR, 3nd Halt 10

tlilile, Sc't ilHI,ll',

I 'm arna7.ed that I can dislike a vcgetable in its rnw form yct manipulate it into Bomet illJlg J lo\'c. I don ' t like raw peppers, bu t this s imple

onw tht ee nle r of each pla lt l

lenh"lhwl8C IfI half. Trun and pcpper8 wllh olrve 011 and fo r 15

place cut ,ude down o n the baking sheet. Bake

to 20 m l lHiles, or UIlIiI they havc softened and the skill has

loosened

from the nCBh. Place If1 a covered container for seyeral

To 110 RO, lill llc'e/" t i l(' "uttle until it hc';ul of gl ntt Htartll 10 l'OITlC out the lOp, I i olel tht, hotlle' nt ahout a 75 drgret· angle. wllh the t i p orlhe hattie

cool enough to handle. peel off thc sklfl and d,lic."d any remailling seeds

tutlchlTlj,t tlU' plnH', I1l1tl, IIlnlllll'lInilig a Blight prCRIUJrC on the hot l le. e1rag

or rlhs,

T h Cl r ' Cl n c " L a u n d , y Cookbook

mlnuteH to steam :lIld loosen the skin further. When the peppers arc

· C A E S A R

PU I'1l1 I g l n no·nl." gglnnu

S A L A D ·

C U H t n l'dH w i t h Jloln n l l ll' Ll' U U <.'l' . J\ n o h o\'�' n l'l'",,,, l n ..: . u u d PIU'UUH 4 l \ U

C d "'IH4

(.;

A N C H O V Y D R E S S I N G M A U t. 2 c u "

CUSTARDS

2 tob!C\poon , freshty OfOlt'd Pormlglono.Reog&ono

1 '12 tablespoons chopped gafiic

)1) cup hcrovv Cf�m

F,O\hly O,ound blcKk poppe'

1 112 tablespoons chopped shoUots

'1) cup mill!.

If. cup bol!tOmlc vinegor

cut Into

I teaspoon fresh lemon Juice

2 &oroo cog,

2 solt·pocked anchovy Mels,

12 C,outon\ (from 0 OOoV(lno),

31.7 OUIlCe1 Porm1glono·Reogklno,

2 tablespoons Dijon mustord

dcboncd,

'h-Inch plect"\

aboot

(Ot Iho dlomc!ICf of tho mokh)

Po""O"'" ul.p. (pogo 37)

I 10'00 egg yolk

soaked In mUk to cover for 30 mInutes,

V. Inth thl<� (pogo 238)

Twelvv '.Inc.h

Porm'olono.Reoolono \hovfroo'

Kosher SoCIt and frcnh)y oround white peppt'f

draIned, and potted dry

tOt oo,nl\h

(modo ¥Io-1lh 0 vegeto\)la SM!'CICH)

I 10'9. 099 yolk

OolloOmk Gio/e (pooo 238). In (J t.qUC(!IO bould

3 cups dliffonodc, Of kHlcJ narrow \t"'"'

I cup CKtro virgIn olive all

romaine lettuco (cut from tho

1 cup conota all

-.�f1'."

$m01I 1nrw!t leove\)

Freshly ground while pepper

frequently return to cl3ssical prepJf3110nS :lIld look for 3 wily to rClfllerpret them. usmg the 61and:ml clement8 but surpruung you

with them. lIere those clements mclud

Lulie 2 13hl('''poon" of the CUli13rtI IlU1Hlrr hllo rOlcll of I"rlvr

I 10

2 oUllce alullllllulII fOil h:akUlK 1II0ht", IlIlIhalc fIIUItlS. or mhrr '''"111 1

;) PJrIllCS31l custard sci on

molds. I'I:.e(' I h r molds I n :I roasling JI:t1l :tllli ncltl hOi w;lIt"r to c'umt'

croutona. ;) chiffol13de of rOIl1Jme, and a ParrncSln cnsp, "'Ith a cl3S81C

:thout halfway \I ll tht' liIllcll of Ihr lI10hJs If ) Utl :lrc llliin� fOil c'u l''' allli they nOlll. pbct' :s hllL.IIIK .hl:'t"1 o r plln OH'r tht'1II HI hultl lilr'1I1 clOWII,

Cae8ar drc8slIlg.

vwa the rOJ8tlllK plln "1I1l 31unlillum fOil unll haL.e- fur:\O 1IIII1I1ICII. o r F O R T H E A N C H O .... Y D R E SS I N G

Pure� the b'Jrhc, sllallots, Vin gIlr,

unul Iht' cu,.t:mlll 3rt'

JUSI

tU" 1 I t h e rdgt"11 ,.llUulcI luuL.

. wl. h U I I h r vrry

mustard. lemon JUice, ani! anChOVIt:8 III a hlender unlll IW100l h.

ccnte:nJ 1113) 1101 hc. Hc:'lIlu\'C' Ihr molels frolll Ihr "'atrr hath :lIltl

Transfer to a II1lxc: r w lth Ihe paddle al tJclIIIlcJll 3nd heat lit th e:gg)'olk.

rcfngrrJlc the: CUli13nlll for 3t lr31i1 2 houn, .11111 u ll lO 2 lia Ii. To"" the: TOIII3111C ,, " h Ihr P.lTlnif(HUIu Hrg;;l nliu illlli

With the tI1aclllllC nUllllng. slowl), dnllle IIl lhe Oils, Sea80n "'lIh ,,'llIle

TO C O M P U 1 [

pepper. Cover and rcfngcr3le. 111cr� Will he more dre:s8lnK Ihan you

Just c:nough circulIlK 10 lightly C031 lilt' Irllul'r Sraliu" Willi I'cpprr Itt

need for 11118 reCipe, hut the extra can he storecl l n Ihe rcfngerJlor for up

1381e Place 3 1i1lOlHiful of Iirr1i8111� on radl 1 '131C HUll tl li1ll311 1'arinK knife:

to 3 day•.

FOR

T It [

C U STARDS

Place the cream. 1I111k, .:lI1d PJrnllglJJlo

3TOUJuJ Iht' rdKC' uf C"3ch cUIiI:ml. lIiJl lhC" muliis Imrfly 11110 hot water,

HCgg'I:mo 11\ a saucepan and !lnng 10 a 81111 111('r Turn off Ihe he3t, cove-r

!Iud uI1mo1eJ each l'uht:ml unlO .1 cruutfln Ct'fltrr 'Hit'

the pan, :lIId let the naVOTS Infuse for 45 IIIII1Ule8.

1)1)01 of drrll!illlK l..ly a l'artllt'IIII11 ('nlil ' m'rr rneh clIlilanl ;11111 101' wilh a

('(Ulllnll

til " Ileh

Prdll'al th� oven 10 2500P

btJCL. of Iht' K313d 1 'llIc(' IIIU1VIJlH" nf clu:rli(" m't'r Iht' rOIlI.JIII� :11111 K'lTIllKh

WIIUik Ihc eggsand yolk together I n a mc:dllun 1.0,,1 Ikhc31 1hc err3m

(,3ch p131t' "'lth .J flJlK or n lillull) pew I of thr h3llilunic' Kla/l"

mixture ul1l1l II 18 hot. While ",IIISklllg. gndually �Iralll the: cre:ulI 31H1 milk onto the cgt-;" 10 temper IlIt'lII. SC3son "lIh ..31t :lIul "hilt' pcpper

" C I U l l O 0'; ,. .. Col

253

... .. ' 1 \ 1 '2 \ l I V I UC. \

'�'" ,:"'r'�!__ ...t.; ",., :' . . a ..;. .... ., . I, ,..,' . .It Jr" .. ..�. . ... �

. ", »

, """ /( -

. ..... ,

•

2S2

Tho f f o n c h

L O \l 'Hlt y

CooUoo'"

路 .

- '

. ,' ' . '

noqucrOJ'l

T .. UI{"

w l l h F,'onch

J]u t te r' Peru' l lc l 1 H h

PEAR PURtE

3 to��poons dked (%6 Inch) red onkln

6 alllpk:e borrfet

I 'I, ,obl..poon. peeled and dked

('I" Inch)

1 V" cups (4 ounc�) walnuts 112 cup (2 ounces) a1l·purpose flour

red bell pepper

15 block �(COfnl

O AC Q U O I S E

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsolted

I II" cu� wote(

3 ta��poons 'ugor

3 toblespoon, ,ooor

3 lobtCSpoonS red wine ¥inegor

2 'I, CUp' (6 OU"'"') d�ed poor hoi,..,

ROQUEfORT MOUSSE

2 Jorge egg

4 ounces RoquciOff

112 tcospoon kosher solt

cui Into 1/,,·lnch dIce

'I, cup pooled and diced ('I" Inch) �po French 8uno(, Bcnc, or other firm p4!0r,

CHIIICfOI1 . IilHtcs

whiles

'I" cup milk

PEAR RELISH

buner.

well softened

I gelotln sheet,

soaked In cold waler to soften

V" cup plus 2 tablespoon' heavy crcom

pcarll. �IHJ w:tlnut8-1 take thilS tr;ldition.11 combination .

....e.. know go weB togethcr. and mafllJlulate it into Komething

liquid has evaporated a n d t h e ingrcdieJ1ls afC tender. You should have about 'Js cup of relish. Store, covercd, in Ihe refrigerator for up 10 2 days. Crumhle the Roquefort checse inlo

elegant and IIIlUHIUII. wilhoul 108inglhal rdcrellc� I)oint. For the fillilihed

fOR TH[ ROQUE fORT MOUSSE

dlrth. a nOfl ueforl mOUIlKe, a purfc of dried pears, and a walnut cookie. or

a bowl and lel 8it at room lemperalure unlil thc pieces have softened. IIcal the rntlk in a saucepan uJlIil it is hOI 10 Ihe touch and pour it

dnc'l"oirte• •1r(' Hen-eel like an I�ngl iflh trifle. TIliK lti beKI prcliented I n lilllall crystal h o......IK o r giaBlie8 with ahout a (our·ounce capacity.

ovcrthc cheese. Allow the cheese and milk to sit for a few minutes, then scrape into a blender and blend for ahout 1 0 seconds t o combine. Pour

,. U It E [

Wrap the allspice herriCK anti peppercorn" in

the mixture hack into the saucepan and rewarm it sJighlly, just 60 it's hot

piece of checse'cloth nlld tie tlte hundlc wflh it piece of lilnng 10 form a

enoug:h to melt the gelatin, Squeeze excess water (rom the gelatin and

Tit ( J> [ A R

,. 0 R

!luchet. Comhine the ",'., ter. Hugar. alld flachel In :t small saucepan and

whisk it into the warm lIquid to dissoh'c. Sirain through a clunois (sec

"ring 10 a "1lIIlIler, AIM lhe diced pears, co\'(� r wlth a pitrclllUClll lul (lice

page 73) IIItO a howl and place in Ihe refngcrator to cool.

) flO), unci co nl lnlle 10 SIUlnler gently (or 20 1 0 30 IJIlnUle", or unlil

Using a ....·h isk. whip the crcalll lll a metal bowl until it just hegins 10

Ihe I'earf! lin' plulII l ' aU/I vcry 80(h there Will he KOllle liquid remaining.

form soft peakli; it should still be pourable. Fold the cream inlO the

page

!\" Iluwt' I IIf' "111'111'1 and purf':(' the peMII with the rClllailllllg cookl llg 111)11111

n 1I1(, IIII('r 111 1111 Vf'1)' ,ulloolh. Transfer the pu ree to it container

(there will he

I 10 I III

ClIllJi

of "lIrre) and

rt!flrr I n the refngerator unlll

remly 10 rtrrvr, Tllr pl'ar flu rfc WIll kee l ' for II frw wed'li.

of mousse. TO

COMPUT[

Spoon 2 to 3 tablcfipooJlS of pear pur�e into the

hOllom of each serving cll8h or glas8. (The amount you usc 18 a mailer of

Comhine all the rrlish Ingrrdiellhi 111 a

lalite as well all the size and shape of }'our dishes. Wide howls will need

lIallccl liUl nllil cook C)vrr\'c!1)' low Itc'at (or 20 10 30 nUnlllell, arunt" all the

ulorc puree tllan narrowerglastws,) Smooth tilC top oflhc puree and lOp

rON

256

noqucfort mixlure. one third 011 a lime. You should ha\'c aboul I III CllJlS

l U I:

P[AR

N lLlSU

T h o Frondl l o u n l h � C o o lo. b o o L

each with about II. cup of the Roqudon mousse. Refnger.ue for at least

Thtee

3 hours to SCI. or for up to a day.

3 10�POO"" Diion mu\lord

f O R nH O A C Q U O I S £

Preheat the o\'en to 325°F. une a 1 2 � hy 1 6

inch baking sheet ..... ith 3 Silpal (sec Sources, page 315). Place the w31nuts Jnd flour m Ihe thoroughly dl)' bo\\1 of a food

V..lnch-Ihkk �k("l bacon, "Olen and CV1 Inlo �,Inch cubM

I 'll 10�npoon\ �ry \'ioeoor V.. cup el.tro \'ilo!n oIh-o au St. 1 l/.,Inch rOUI\(b

Ork>cho

(pogo 258), Cui 2), Inch Ihkl

processor fUled with 3 nU::131 hbde. Pulse Ihe mixture carefully unlii the

2 lobinPQOO\ (1 ounco) un\Ohed butltf

. nuts 3re fmely b70und and (>o....del)· III lexlurel do not o\'CqlrOCt'bii. Of

6 quail COO'

the 11l1l8 m3Y become ally and p3Sty.

3/. cup fri� 1elluco

Whisk the bUller III 3 bOIA'1 unlll 11 resembles m3)OnnJl8e III

1 tro,poon minced (hhfl O,rb" or other \Oft

consistency. Fold the nut :md flour 11lIxture 11110 the bUller, It \\111 be

80»le.....h:1I dry at flr8t hut Will come together,

F,C\hly oround block �,

'"'oU ....cdgn .

Ptoroll de

,heep', mUk (hcc"e

I n :l second howl, ..... hlsk the cgg .....hues ufllIl foamy, Add the 8311 :HIlI continue to wtu8k unlll the egg wlllle8 arc hlendt'd but not yet hohltng

PrchC'31 Ih(' 0\(''' 10 350°F PI3(,(, tlie plt'('('1i of baron In '" IUIIAII .ltllet o\'cr InIA hC3t

peaks. Fold ha1flhe whites Into the nut 1I11xture to combine. then foM I II

n llli ('cHik

until bro\\lIl'tl HrmO\e Ih(' hacon 1O ,lr;:J11i 01l 1)311('r tOlArl.,

the rcSI (11 ..... 111 resemble muffin ballef), Usc an offSCI 8patula to spreall the (bequoise batter lIla l3)ef 111. 10

Willsk tht' mlllUanl :llH1 \ 1I1('K;tr to�('thf'r III n .'111311 lIu"I, Sllr Il1 th('

II. inch duck o\'er the Sllpat liner, TIle dac( uoise musl be marked Into l

011\'(' 011

circles the same 817C :ls the top of the tnfles. Measure the dlarnell'r of the

rathn Ihun 1'lIIullilfleti

\\ l1h .. "POUII 'nit' urruin..: IihouM hI;' '"hrol(,II" III "1'11C"nram'C'

lie :l 1 Ilieh rount! culIrflO lII:1 kl' n hulf' In lh(' cC"lIlf'rnf (,11('h IIr(,lul

top of the fU1Ished tnflcs and UfiC a culter of the same 811e 10 lIIark

O\'C"lIprouf "lltlC'1 U\ r r

circles IIl tht' dacquolsc, Mark tic\'ef31 marc than neededl YOII may need

roullii. MC'1t tht' Imlt('r lit a lar..:C" un rUHlt'k

extras because of tht=lr fragile nature,

1IlC'111U1II h(':l1 WhC"JI the hUII(,f '" fruth '. 311c1 Ihc rOIllIlI" of hrtlJrlu.',

Place Ihe pan In the oven for 20 10 30 nllllutcS. rc\·tr6l11K the pan aflcr 1 0 nllnlltes to ensure e\'en cooklllg.

TIle flllished d:&Cfluolses 3rt'

\\'llt'll Ihf' hUIIOII1. arC" golden hrolA ll, r('lIlll\(" tht' I'all frorn tht' hurnrr. flip the lmotlit' rouJliI" O\C'f. IU1I1 hrral a (1110111

t'� IlIlu t'u('h holt·,

medium brown and finn 10 the louch, Ht'lIIo\'t' frolll the O\'t'n and. \\llIlc

I\elum tht' sl lllt'l to tht' 1111fUC" f 3ntl couk unlll l hl' lintlOlU" art' ..:olclrn

they arc sllll hot. place the Clilleron tht' prc lIlarkc:d Circle! and rot�lco ll

hrown I f tilt' C"AA\\hIIU ,,1111 look ullt'ouhcl. I'III(,C" IliC" Iiklllt'l llI l hl' (1\" ' "

back :'IIl d forth between your flJlgers to r('('ut lh(' tlilild. Lct them cool .

for 30 SC'CO llllli or aU. )lIlil to st'l lhf' \\IIIIC'"

then Hlorc the dacquollics III an alrllght ('onl3lJler,

l Ulit before sen'llIg, lici a dacquoise 0\ ('rcoach Iflfle 31111 KJrJIIsh IA IIh a qllcnclle (lice "age 271), or IHllall 0\'31 hCOOp. of Ihe )It'ar reh,h " ( T U U O 0'.

, ... "1

252

"' ... .. , S 6 \ I . ... I N '"

C O M " U Tl

TO"1 Ihl:' fnli�t' \\Ill! thl:'

elm('!i 1\1111 )11"1 ,· .tuujoth

tlrt'b!illl� to "Kill I) ('(Ial tlir �rrr llli 1'13l(, '" alll311 11101l11l1 uf fflli(-" UII (,3eh piatt' anti "pnnLlr \\ 1111 Ilu' haroll ArrJllj.tl'

2 IA t'd�rli or rllt'C"Iit' ulollWlIIl1'

rarh IHIC" of Krt't'll" Sri a \\arm hnut'llC' rillllul lIC"xl 10 1 1 1(' 1c:1 I11l'C" a.ul rht'C'IIl'l li l 'nnklr hl3di' l'r l 'pCf O\rr Ihl' platt' . "' . ( T U I I O

all , ... "1

2��

C l. . . . .

2$7

" S O U P

A N D

S A N D W I C H "

G l' U l ed Pn.'ol h oUHC C h c d d f U', EUJ'ly G I I'I Tomato COIlHonln16. Ilnd D u u c.'·Prlcd C h l Jl �

TOMATO C O H S O MMt

P O TA T O C H I P S

GRI LLED C H E E S E S A N DWICH

I B '0 2A VO'Y ripo Eoriy Glri

1 V, cups Oorifled Butt'" (pago 125)

3 ounces white Cheddar cheese,

'omo1<,o,

(abou. 6 po'II1,b) (or .ho """. flavorful

I ';' cups conolo all

voriety avolloblo), cored and holvcd

2 each VO'Y "",,11 puople P",uvlon, baby

1 dried chlpo110 popper, soaked In hot water for about 30 minutes to soften, and drained 6 ctOch red, yctllow, and oreen cherry tomotOCi,

red-skJnncd, and

cut Into paper.thln slices

very

12 crustless 2·lnch squores Brioche (rcdpe follows), V. Inch thick

smoll

V. cup Oarifled Butter (page 125), melted

Yukon Gold poto.oes Kosher solt

wch as Sweet 100, Golden Jublleo, and Green Gropo Solt to tosto

rill ed cheeKc-Kraft Singleal and Wonder 8rcad-taken to another

Ihey slap. the chips will be crisp.) Transfer to paper towel" to drain.

levc:l with IIlIctlJ of hrioche and a Ileautiful farmhou8e Cheddar.

T O C O M P L E T E I For the brrilled cheese sandwich. divide the checse

Serve it wllh lorn3to aoul' just aA Mom did when you were :l kid-a dish

evenly :lmons six pieces of the brioche. Top wilh the rcm:lining 8liccS of

Ktralght out of lUI Americ.m childhood. refined into hoautc cuisine. NOle

hrcoad to form sandwiches. Brush each sandwich on both sides with thc

tllill lhe tOfllatociS for Ihe consommli need to dr:lin overnight.

clarified bUller. Heoal ;) nonstick 8killet over medium heat. Cook the sandwiches.

Place Ihe halved lomatoes i n a food

turning once. until the brioche is golden brown and the cheese has

)"OCenM wllh thfO chlpotle pepper :Uld pultle unlil the tomatoC8 arc

melted. Cut each sandwich in h:llf on the diagon:ll to form Iwo triangles.

f O R T U E T O MATO C O tf 5 0 M M [

finely choppcd. Line n bowl whh n clean. (I3mp cotton dlllh lowel or a

Pbcc one of c:lch color cherry tomato in each of six demilasse cups.

triple hlyer of cheellcclOlh. Pour the: chopped tomaloel and pepper inlo

SC3son the eonsommli with salt and fill the cups with the chilled tom:110

the towel. Uring up the edgc8 of the to,",'d around the tomatoes and tic

eon8ornm�. Placc c:lch cup on a 8ervingdish and arr:lllgc oa grillcd cheese

with n Jliece or luring to form at pouch. DiKcard Ihe liquid In the howl.

sandwich and :I portion of the palata chips alongside. Sprinkle Ihe chips

IInnK the hnK of 10mnioeM from n rnck in the refrigerator, 8u8J1ended

with kosher s:llt.

over the howl. nnd lei drain overnight. (Or hnng it from a woodtn 8)100n

" I C ' U Il I O

M A It I S 6 S (J I V I N G S

.... <; 1 2 S "

Ret ovt:r II dct·p container.)

BRIOCHE

The next c1ny, there Rhould he nllOul 2 CUpK of tomalO water. or

COlIlIOlllllut Sirain It and chill for nt leallt 1 hour. or up 1 0 1 day. Hlauch the cherry tom:1t0t:8 in lightly Ralted waler for a few seconds to IOoAe'lI tlie "kin. Hcmove the lomntoellwilh a Rloltcd spoon ami plunge them inlo nil icc wnter l)I1th to cool. Helllo\'e Ihe tomatoes and Jleel them

I/J cup very worm waler ( 1 10" to

1 1 5·F.) One 1I.·OI.lnce pockooe octive dry yemt (nol qulck.rislng)

211.z teaspoons fine sea salt

6 large egos, at room temperature 20 tablespoons ( 1 0 ounces) unsalted butter, 01 room temperature, cut

with n "IIInll pnrlng knife. The"e cnn II · hdd al room temperature for a

211J cups ( 101h ounces) coke 1I0ur

Into 1 ·lnch cubes, plus buller

few hour" he'fore Kerving.

2 cups ( 1 0 ounces) oll.purpase flour

for the pons

F O M T H [ POTATO C H I P S

Ilcnt the clnriried hullcr andoll l n a Kmall

VJ cup ,uoor

dcep K:tIlCt l,an to 300or:. Meanwhile. cut Ihe unpeeled pOlaloe" on a rnnndolhU' hUn l)Uper� thln "licCil. Dcel'· fry Ihem

In h:uchcR. for 2 to 3

minuteR. or ulllil they are criKp nnd the all nrouncl the chip" IA no longer huhhllnK. (The 1Il0lHture in Ihe pOlntoc8 C.1118CR the huhhlcR and once

251

T h o fr o n ch Laundry Cookbook

htf Jea n� l.ouis Palladin makcs 80me of the besl brioche I 've evcr had, this Is hl8 recipe. and it's the one we use :It the restaurant.

Start this a day hefore }'ou want 10 make it. as it has to rcst o\'crnight.

Combinethe water:mdyeast in a Im3l! bo�'l. lct 8et for 1 0 minutel. then Itir until the yeast is completely dissoh·ed. Set aside. Sift togelher the nours, sugar. :lI1d sah inlo the bowl of a mixer filled with the dough hook. Add Ihe eggs :U1d beal for I mmUlc al low 'pet'd. scraping down the sides wilh a rubber spaluia 018 Jlceti('d. Slo� Iy add the dissolved yeast and continue b('atingat iow Ipeed for 5 minutt's. Stop the machine. scrape any dough orr Ihe dough hook. and be.lt for another 5 minules, Add the bUller cubes. about one qu.1rter of them 3t 3 lime. beating ror 3bout 1 minute arter each addition, Onc(' 31 1 the buttcr has been added. beat for 1 0 10 15 minutes more, Place the dough In a large floured mixing bo�l and cO\'erwlth plll8lic wrap. Sct aSide in a .....arm pl:lce until doubled In sile. :lboUI 3 houn, Turn the dough out onl0 a generously floured "'ork surface anti gently work the air bubbles oul by raiding the dough o\'er st'\'er.ll llmCS while lighlly pressing down on It. Return the dough to the bo,,1. covcr with plaslic wrap. and refrigerale ovcrnlght. Generously bulter t.....o 811z- by 4 11z- by 3- mch loar 1>3n8. Turn the dough out onto

floured work surracc. With floured h.:mds. diVide the

dough in hair and shape 11 into IwO reclangle8 10 fll the loar P:lI1S, Place the dough in the pails and lel lhe dough Wit uncO\'eretJ 111 a warm place until it is aboul I/: mch above the top of the pans. aboul 3 hours. Prehc;!t Ihe oven 10 350°F. Bake Iht Iwoctle until II i8 well hrowlI('d on lOp and sounds hollow when lapped on the bOllom. 35 10 40 numlleil, I\emovc rrorn the oven and immediately turn Ihe bnoche out onlO :1 '" Ire rack. Ir uSing IJnmcdlalcly. lel thc breads cool ror 10 mlnute8. then slice and serve, lf scrvingwllhin a rcw hours. promptly ",rap the hOI hre3tl ln aluminum fOil and siore at room temperature until ready 10 08e, lr frcellng. IInmedlately wrap the hOI hread in roil :lnd promplly rrCelt" when rcady 10 U6C, rcheal (wllhout tha\'t'IIlJ;. and stili ",rappec! III rOil) 1U a 250°F, ovcn until heated through, 20 10 25 mlllutes, Tht' lJrc3d can he kept frol.en for up to I monlh. If u81 1lg the hnoche for crouton!!, let the 10ar IJlt .11 room temperature. uncovered, 10 dry for 3 day.

' C O F F E E

A N D

D O U G H N U T S '

C n p p u cc l n o SCJl1J f.'ccJ d o w i t h C J n n 0 I1 1 o n ' S u J( R I' Douj:{h n u t R

CAPPUCCINO S E M I F R E D DO

CINNAMON·SUGAR DOUGHNUTS

3 tabl�poons sugar

2 large eOOs, separated

PART I

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 10'00 egg yolks

1/. cup plus 1 tablespoon WOf�r.

1I. c;.up wgor 1/2 vanilla bean.

'I.. cup egg yolks (about 3 large yolks) 2 tablespoons (1 ounce) unsalted buHer, melted

at foom temperaturo

spilt

'I.. ounce compressed fresh yeast

2 tablospoons ctSptOUO ex1,0C1 (5eO Noto)

IJ:l cup oll·purpose flour

'17 cup hco..y crcom

PA R T

and cooled

Canola 011 far deep·frying

II.. ounce comprened fresh yeast

Clnnomon sugar: 1/2 cup sugar mixed with

2 tablespoons milk. 01 room temperoture 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons oll·purpose flour,

1 1/.. teaspoons ground cinnamon

'h cup milk

or moro as nceded

hill mny he another orlhOlit had 'lo-he-8!1d -lo-see-i i creatioJls. like

(or ahout 12 minute8 at medium speed. or until lhe mixture has Jightened

the ,wiman cornel. 1 "",,," working In L.A.. rnlHcro1hleand poor. I had a

and tripled in \·olume. Be.1t in the espresso extract . Tr.,ns(er the mixture

James llt'tlrd Foundation dinner coming up ilUlI had no Idea what I was

10 a bo.....1 placed in a larger ho.....1 o( icc walcr to mainlain its consistency.

going 10 Herve. AeroRK from my apanment ......:18 an S and K doughnul 8hop. I 'd go lIu:re once II week ror a glazed old·fashioned doughnut and a cup of

coffee. I liked the glated ohl-fashloned hec.1tUle It W.1S80 heavy-it felt like

heater is lifred. Fold the ..... hipped cream into theyolk mixture and return

yuu were gelling

the I>owl to the ice.

1 01 for your money. And there it "'.11:1: Coffee and

Doughnut". I lrled It for the nnn lime Bl the Heard House .1nd it worked.

In a mixer howl or a metal bowl. whip the heavy cream with tahlespoons of the sugar until it holdR its shape when the whisk or

Whip Ihe egg whiles in 3 mixer ho.....1 or mel.1l howl until they arc

An clement of "urprille here iH Ih.' 1 Ihe Kcmifrcddo. a partially

(rolhy. While whipping. add in the remaining3 1abiespOOJl8 of sugar and

frozcn mOUHKe, It! cold helleath hOi. frOlhy sleamed milk. The doughnulH

whip Ihe egg whites just unlil they hold 80fl peak8. being careful n01 10

nrc dcllciuuH traditional deep- fried tre.118. coaled ",ilh cinnamon .mgar.

o\'efwhip them. Fold the be31en egg whites into the egg yolk mixture

It'll it greilt do-nhcad reclpel not oulye,," Ihe scmifrcddo he kepI (rolen.

unill they arc completely combined.

hut the uncooked doughnutH C.1n alKo 81ay (r01.en for tip to three day". 'n,IK dCIiHerl nlwaYIi IU!emK to make people limile.

Spoon the semi(reddo into six 8 - to J O-ounec coffee cups. lea\'ing al least 1/2 inch at Ihe top for the sleamed milk. Cently tap the cups against the counter to le\'e1 lhe mixturc. Co\'cr the cups with plastic wrap

Plncelhe eggyolkfJand lIt cup

and place them in the freezer until (rolen. at le.1St 6 to 8 hours. or

plllK 2 IlIhlcKl)OonK of HIIK." in the ho",1 0( .1 m ixer (hied ",ith the ",hi8k nttnehrncill. Scr,'pe the HeedK from the yanllla henn fnro the 1.0"'1. Wh i p

0\'ernight. lllc8c ",ill keep (or up 10 3 daY8 in the freezer: a(lcr thai time.

f O R T it ! C A P P U C C I N O S f M l f R ( O O O

262

T h e F r e n c h L a u n d r y Cookbook

l hey will fltart 10 denatc.

FOR

THE

Cl N

N AM O N . S U G A R D O U G H N U T S ' . U T , Place the watcr i n the bowl of a mixer. Crumble the yeast into the WOller) mix and crush the yeast with 3 spoon to dissoh·c. Add the nour 10 the 00\01'1 and.

using the dough hook. mix slowly until the inb'Tedient8 3re thorough ly blended. Transfer this sponge 10

ddro" them aud Ihcn allo\Ol' them to file at room 1(,l11 lu! r.uure for I to

Ph houn. TIley c.tn be rdngcraled for "e\'cu,1 hOUri or o\'crnlttht. to rise .lo.....ly . W'hen y ou relllO\C them from tile r('frl �rr.ttor. uu('o\'('r them and lei thr ill fllHSh prooflllg 11\3 .....trrn . I,lace for20 to 30 mi uu lu. l f lhey ha\'c nOI been refrlgcr.1ted or fro le l l. they IIhould rl.e

ho.....l. co\'er. and let proof 31 room

lemper;'lture for 1 to 2 hours. until it has doubled1 or place the bo", 1m the refrigerator to proof o\·ernighl .

room

3Jlp roxl l1lalely If. III(·h. TO CO O K T H l D O U G H H U H

Crumhle Ihe ycasl into the milk in a 8m3H bo.....1, stirring to dissolve. Place 'It cup of the nour. the sugar. and salt in Ihe bo..... 1 of a

lel1lpenture III About 15 nHnulu. Ollce praofrd , they \\,111 hll\'C' rhum 10 I n a tlce ' hC3\ ' ll.1u('('p:m 141)t(' enuugh l

PAR T 2

to hoM half the doughnulli 31Ul lIoln al 3 tlmt", he31 l'llllob oil for de ('p "

mixer filled with the dough hook. Mixmgon low specd. pour m the nulk

aJlp ro xl ln:nely 30 seeomlll on lhe flnt tlltie. �' IP th(' tlollghnutll O\ntl fry

fryi ng to 325°F. Add half the tioughnut ll 31H1 holu lO Ihe Oil anti cook for

;'Ind yeast mixture, followed by theegg),olband butter. Max for a minute

for I lIu nutc on the lil'('orul lUlle. thell turn I Il1ek to th(' flft" tilde to ('001..

to com bine.

for al\ atld l l l Oual 30 Iccoluill. or until ;s cirr I' gohlell bro\\'n. nr IllO\'C the

Add the proofed sponge and the remaining 1/. cup plus 2

doughnuttl. t.lralllihem hn('O), on IUI)I(' r 1o\\ rll. and t01i1l th('m in " bowl

lableSI)Oons nour. Continue to beat at low speed unul comhmed. Tum

,",' 1111 (he Clnn311l0n IUlK3r. nClle'at "' H h Ih(" rClI1ll1T1l11g doughnutll .

up the speed slightly and kne;uj the dough for 4 10 5 minutes, or unl ll "

has formed a ball and cleans the Sides of the ho..... 1. If the dough stems

rninulCI hdore lIen'lIIg to lofte n Hllghtly. 51c3m t ht' 111111.. ulllll� "

wei. it lIlay be necessary to add 1 to 2 more tahlulJOoll1i nour. Co\'cr the bowl and let the dough proof overnighl l ll t he rcfnger'lIor.

('al ll'\I('clllD m:lt'luuc: or frotlllng nl3chill(,. I'lnee 0\ cup of HC llll fr("dc1o nlUl

Place the dullcd dough on a l ight ly

holt'. Spoon the Ilte;"ut'd nH11.; OYer th(' IU' nu frr tlcl o n ntl ilen'l!

T O S H A P E TlH D O U G H N U T S

noured surface alld roll it oul to 3 IIJ· inch tlllckliess. Cut out the

COMPU T [

l\ell1O\I;' th� lIenllfn�tltlo from Ih(' fr('et("r a ft'w

a doughnut on ('3('h of IiIX platt'i. Top (,3eh tl oughnut wllh

II doughn ut

I mmetl llliely .

d oughnuts using a 2� 1I1Ch doughnut cut ter, or a 2 · l Ilch JJiliCUIt cutler ( I n which case. you will also need a 'It - Illch cu ll eT to JIlake the hole). Place the doughnuts ;'Ind doughnut holes on

bakmg fillcet lined ..... lIh

HOT [

Coffrc ntraci Iii ..\'311 ..111(' to c uli ll ary IlrofrlUltonnlli. An

parchment paper. Cover the doughnuts "" Ith :t sheet of plastiC ,",r:lp that

3iternallY(' Iii 10 fill a pr of llllilani CIi)lfCilliO wllh hOlllng ,",;:aler. Thill will

has been spraycd with nonstick spray.

(tl!ltiol\'(' the' Jo; nUlul r .. alltl create rlipre"iu rxtucl , wll1('h Colli he luured

At this pOi nt. the doughnuls call he frolen for sC\'l!ral daylJ, refrigera t ed, or allo....ed . (0 flse 31 rooUl t emperature. I f they're frotc:n.

l lill t fl ll l ll'iy III Ihc rt'frl,;rr3Ior. Or you call IIIn ke " 11II311er ()unntlty.

Ulun.; t"(l IlaI 311l0Ilnt li of f'il l,rf'IiIiO IlUwtlrr luul hu� l i n K ,",'aler.

C J 'C n nl

YOGURT CHARLOTTES

or D l u elHH" 'Y S o u p w i t h VOg-1 I 1·t

6 Telllcherry peppcrCOfm (sea poge I SO),

BLU E B E R RY S O U P

'/J cup heavy crcom

liOhtly Clu,hcd (with the bottom of a heavy

1/4 cup su{)or

pon or 0 meat pounder)

1 aelotln sheat,

soaked In cofd woter to soften

C h n d olll'H

I cup dry crisp, white wine, such os SouviOnon Blonc Julienned zest (removed with a zester)

I pint raspberries

I cup ploln wholo·mllk yoourt

I pint smoll sllowberries, hulled

CRtME ANGLAISE

I smoll sprlg mini

I 'n pints blueberries

'/2 vonllio boon, spill

OACQ U O I S E

'12 cup sugor

I cup heo-.y Clcom

I cup (3 ounces) sliced blonched almonds,

I cup mllk

ond juice of I lemon

2 C99 cartons or 0 baking pon filled with 0 IIl·inch

finely around In a coffee mill

112 cup suoor

I cup suoor

5 10'00 coo yolks

2 toblespoons COfmlOlch

TELLICHERRY PEPPER SYRUP

l/j cup egO whiles (2 to

loyer of solt or crumpled foil (to support the molds)

J eoo whites)

I cup wotor 'I.. cup sugar

he hluciU'rry HOIII' iii ra ,lt;lli l i c nil lIy itlwlr. Inll I like the charlolle ilCC.'IUHC! It iM

n unifl 'J(: ",'ay

to tide YOb''ltrl , which replaces Ihe

Place 6 hemisphere molds m the egg c."IOI1S, or JlC611e I h e m i n the roi l o r 831t 10 keep lhem rrom lilt ing, Divide thc charlottc rnixturearnong

IrIulhioJlnl milk or crcnlll, We IIKe ;'l1l lillie: gelalin as p088ihi ' 10 keep the

Ihe moldH. Cover and rc(flger:uc ror :'lf least I and up 10 2 days.

c1cl it'ncy or I IIf' yogurl lnltlcl .

FOR THE CREME ANGLAIH

Tilt' charlotlrll nrc rormed III Hltilnlc'HH HICcl

,1 ou nce: "he:lIl1 sphc:re" � lIhal'cd

UlolclK (RI'e SOllre'ell, IHII5t! J 15), They IIhould h ' made a day

Scrape the Heeds rrom the vanilla hean

Into n medium lIaucepan; add Ihe pod, cream, milk. and haIr the sugar. Urmg 10 a Runmer, stlrflng 10 d lliliOlvc the 8ugar. Meanwlllie. in :, mcdium howl. whisk Ihe cgg yolks with Ihe

or IWe) nllef"!.

relll:lll1lng liug:" unlll lhcy havc thickened ;lnd IIghtcned to a palc' yellow. COlllhlne IlJ Clip orlhe crc:lIu wilh

WhlHk one Ihird or till' hot cream mixture jnlo Ihe yolks 10 temper them

Iht· HUKar I n n IIlllnU 8:lIIcc l 'all allli lIr1ng 10 a simmer m'er medIUm heal,

anti rcturn the ulIxlUre 10 the lIaucepan. Sltr with a .....oodcn spoon ovcr

Btirrl "K 1I111l1 1hc lIuKar III el i"Holvl'eJ. POllr the cream 11110 a howl. SfluCCZC

low heat until the custard IhickenK and coalS the back orthe spoon. Pour

F O R T H E Y O G U R T C ll A R l O T T ( S

264

the e',kceMti wnh'r rrolll the gelatin Hhcc,t and Htir It Into the hal cream

the cUlllnrd mlo ,I melal bowl set ill an Ice · water bath to cool. \'(fllen the

until it hllll tIlIlIlOh'ccl, Stir i n lhr YOhl'llrt fllld nllow die' mixture 10 cool to

custard HI cool. siram lt, cover. and place m lhe refrigerator 10 chill.

mom ff·IIlJlI·rttwrc.

fOR

TUE

T £ LlICU[ARY

P E J' P E R

SYRUP

Combille

all

the

I n tl llwdhlln llO\\'I, llghlly ""hlp Iht' relllalnlng I/J ('uI' crt'.'lm jU81 Unlit

I Ilgrtdlenl8 III a saucepan and hrHlg to just under a Sllnmcr (a huhble or

It hcginH to hold lhl flhnJlc. Stir the coolcel YOh""t ll11xlure Illto the cream,

two III all right. hUI Ir the mixture hegins to hail. the symp will he

T h o F , e n c h L a u n d , .,. C o o k b o o k

c l oudy), Cook for 45 minutes, all owmg the: O:1\"Ors IO Infuse, Ir.un Ihe: synlpl disc:trd the (nul and sl'3soml1b'"8, nlere wllI lJe I 10 t I/: cups of syrup: it c.m he refngerated in a cO\'CTcd conlalOer for tip to t monlh.

Prcheal lhe o\'el1 10 300°f, Lalle 1\\0 hJ\ang sheets with parchmcllt p3pcr, Blend the 3lmonds. 2/, cup of Ihe liugar,

FOR T H(

DACQUOISE

:lI1d the cornstarch together in a food processor ul1l1l lhe nuts :lre ,'cr), nnely ground,

I n a mixer howl, whi p the egg whites at meelllllil speed for 2 to 3

minutes UI1III they start to holll dlelr sh3J1e. Slo\\ l)' add Ihe re11lJlI11U� l

'OR

TH(

ILU lluav

sou r

nnll� IhC' \\1lIC' 10

boil 11\

*,11I1tH

UUCt"P11l :aml .llm off 111) r(,,'Hlu(' th;\1 COIlIt''' to Ihe 1\)1' Alltl lht" It'' 1I\01l uAl and JUIC(' ;Uul llll1unerunttl tht" 1 111 "hl '" r(,IIII('ttl to I . CU ll. Sirain Ih(' rcducttl lllltllCl (dlli(,3rdll1�lhc 1("11\011 '1('.1) \Uto:. 1I\(,llmll\ l!Iuuct" I),II\, Sllr IIIlhe hlut'bt'rn('tI BIIlI rook O\rr I1INl!uIU !em h(':t1 UlllU 1h('�' hllnlt, Atltt I cup oflhr p('Pl'rr 8 nip :tlHl lhr ""�,'r :\1I\1 1 " II\II\t"r �rntl , for 1 5 111111U1e'8 I'our half tht' ",hlurt' 11I10 :a hl(,lUlt"r (H III hC'�t

tlo thtll ll1

p:tnll hC'c:lU!i(' I he 11\1�t\lr(' I' hOI .lml the ,&1e';III1 ctHllcl t,:tIl!U' Ih(' li�1 t u blo" of0 If )OU ha\(, :l holr an thr top of Ihe hlt"lul e'r, rrlllu,,' tht" 11I11:t1l

CU I' sugar and conllJ1l1e 10 he31 UIlIII the n1ennb"Uc holds lIlC sh3pe 311ti iS Silky :lIld shllly (like sh""lng cre:un). Thoroughly fold Iht' dry

(,OIP IO rt"it'3sC' Ih(' "IrOlIll Pullit' 't'\('ral lllll(,", Ihrll hlrllil the' 11\1.\1\11'('

ingredients HlIO Ihe IIIcnnb'Ut',

rt')lt'OIl "Ith Ih(' rt"lIl:lIl1dt'r of 111(' 1111\llIr(', ,ttMlII� II It) Iht" 1IIC';"Hln ll�

UI\III I1 lit ,mooth Siraan Iht' IIOU)l h:tlie' IIIIU n "'r�(' m(',ul l n ll� l'UP Ilnel

Sin); an orrsct spatula. spread h3Jr the hatler In " \'ery Ilull 13)CT (:1uout 1/. lOch tluck) onlo each h3klng pan, Bakc (or 10 !lunutell If Ihe

cup, Sill' In ('olll "'.llt'r 10 hntl� Iht' I luanllt\ flf 1i0UI' haltt" 10 " l'u l '" PIBCI' I I I " lIo,,1 'el In 0I" 1e'(' ",at('r h:tlh :nllt ch,1I Ihoroll�ltl

dacquoiscs Seem to he haklllg u nc\enly, re\'t'rse Ihelr posillons afler

Stir I I , CUJUI oft'olel fri-lIlr III1�blri(, 111111 the IIOU I, llIlI"· YUII \, 111 hll\r

5 m i lllll C8. Rcmo\'(' from the o\'en (le;'I\'(' the o\('n on), USlnga 2 ' . Illch cutter (or a cutler "'llh the same diameter as Ihe charlotte lIIoldli), cut 31 least 6 rounclK,

SIIIg: a 2+llIch cutter, CUI :lI ll'OIbt 18 rouluJR :uul thl'n,

3ppro�lIl1:ttrh 5 1,) (,up" nf "ou l lI )011 lI('rll 0111) :1 ('UP" tlf KOII I ' fur tl"" rt'(,l lu', hut thco rC'III;I IIlIII� bOll!, '" III )..C'r l ' fur Ii('\ ("roll tin' It, t'm t'rr.I, IlI lh,' rerl'l�l'ralOr

wilh :l knife, cut carh of tht'se rounds ill half. If thc IIICrII1h'lIC Slick" 10

T O COMP l( T I

the cullcr or klllfe, dampen a c10lh "lih 80lllt' callob 011 and mh Iht'

round th rt'ctl :t�aIIl1'i1 1I1t, (' ha rIUI 1 t" "'III III\t"rl 111(' ('har l olf(' Itl 1I11I1I1I1t1.

cutler or knife as necessary. You Will h;l\e lIIorc Ihall )OU nccci, hut au

(It " III hr ('lUi) IU hUIIIII(' Ihr diUriUIlt' ,1M II Iilld 011 111(" ('Unlll' ) PI,I('e' 1111("

lIIay have bOIllt' hreakage.

ch:trlollt' 111 IhC' ,'rlltrr of r:H'h

Helurn the daC(luOISCS tO llleo\'cl1 for':UlollIl'r 1 0 10 15 III I ntllt'S TCbt

Dip (':t('h moM 111'1('0 tlllU hUI "':tIC'r. huM .1 lilH'IPIIII"t'

II('T\ IIIK

hmd Cl'uth Pfl''''' (, 111l1'I I'IU\lir

h3h e'1i nround rach t harlotlC' I'lnl (' IhC' ('uhl 8Hul l III

I'"chrr jlT ulhe'r

hy hrt':lklllg off a scrap and 1t'l lI lIg II l'ool for a 1II111111c If II CTlSI'Ii,

t'ontJlllcr " i lia .. "I 'IHII JIIII carrfulh I'ullr Ihr "UU I) ,Irulliul 1h('

remO\'l' the rCbt from I he 0\ ell; OlhCT\\ ISl', COI1II1IUt' coo\.lng tlll:"lII a hlllt'

ch;uluIICb, lit'T\ [' 11I1I11t'elaalrh

lon.,;('r Check tht' t1acquoISl'& ort('n, ab thl' 1"0 pall8 rna) fllllbh rooLlng

PII , u . t D O t, ' . (. 1 2 6 6

at thfft'rl'nI l Ime8. Whel1 thc) an' tlllllC arlCl htlll "arm. rt'rut tht'1II If necessary, lIbUI" the same Cullers C.1Tdllll) f('mou' Ihl' ebt'e l"oIM'1i fr01l1 IIH' pan \\lIh a small offscI spatula :11111 810rt' 111 all alrllght co ntalllt'r. They arc hest uscd "'1111111 a da), ah hUIIIIIIII) 111.1) t JUbt' 1"(, 111 IU suflell.

D . , .. "

267

C.'cn.n

WALNUT CREAM

PEAR PURiE

1 V.. ClJPS (5 OUMCCJ) wolnlJh, lOO$lcd,

1 ta,oo pear

o)(CO'u $kJn ,ubbed off, and chopped

\\ln l n u t

SOIiP

1 '1:> cups Poaching Uquld (poge 269)

2 ClJpS heavy (foam II.. cup milk II.. vanilla

Walnut 011

bean, spill

ur walnut soup hegan

�u, ;)

walnut S3UCC for 3 \Io'3lnut hread

M E A N W H I L E . FOR T H E PEAR P U R E E

Peel the pe:.r, core, and cut it

pudding, and indeed the soup can he ulied a8 3 83uce. nUl it 13s1e8

iOlo 8 wedges. Put the wedges in :. saucep3n with the poaching liquid.

110 gooel we decided to IeI'Ve it a8 :I soup. 11lC pe3r pur�e 3dd8 the perfect

Co"'cr them with a parehmenl lid (see p3ge 190) and bring the liquid to

sweetnesS to the suhtle hitternc88 0flhc coasted w3InuI8. 11,is i8 rich alld

3 simmer. Cook for about 1 5 minutes. or until the pear wedgcs arc

should he Kervcti in small pOniOJl8. At the rcsl3ur3nt. it 's served :l.S 3

completely sofumed and there is no resistance when they arc tcsted with

CAnaJl� desKert soup, playing off our custom of serving C3nap� soups to

the tip of :1 sharp knife. Transfer the pears and IIJ cup of the poaching

hegln the mc.1.

liquid to a blender.

Wnlnut KOIi P 18 bCKt when catcn shortly After it i8 JIlade, but. if ncceHKary, it can he rcfrlger:ucd for A couple of t!;IYs.

Heheat the walnut cream. J>ur�e the pears. then. with the motor running. pour the hal walnut crcam into the blender 10 combine (the cream must he hOI when it is added to the pur�e, or the soup JlIay break).

FOR TUE WALUUT CREAM

Place the w:alnutK, cream, and milk in a

KntlCCp"n. Scrapc the Keetl" from the vnnllln hean into thc J1an and add

Strain the soup through a fine-mesh 8tr:.iner into a 8auccpan and

the pod, Bring 10 a Klmmcr, t'lI' n reduce the heal 10 keep the liquid just Ilclow n "Immcr :ul(l he:1I for 30 10 �5 mlnute8 to let the navors infuse.

rehe:H gently over low heat. Serve warm in demitasse cups. sprinkled

Strahl the Infused 1I11',icl lnw another salleepnn ;md discard Ihe w31nuts illld vanilln Jlod. YOII Khouki lUlVC aholll I lia CUpH of walnut cream.

268

Thcre will lJc ahout 2 CUI's Soup.

Th. F r a n c h L a u n d r y Coo"boo�

with:1 few drops of walnut oil. M A Jt t S 8 S M A L L S C A V I N G S

One 75().ml bottlc vcrjus (SC!e SourcC1. poge 3 1 5) I cup cOtn syrup

1 cup Poaching Uquld (,eclpe follow» 3 tablespoons honey 2 large ripe but Urm peoc�

Ih 1: I "'38

;l1UJ reduc(' Ihe h('al tiO tiUll lh(' 1 'C'.'I('h('. pO.'leh M J\l161 tIIul r ( :\ ,,1Inl1\("( I n

popular i n Ihe Middle Agcs, bUI has only in Iins tier.ltle hecom('

Iht " nlil. AflC�r .. 5 lIlanul('1I 10 I hour, Ih t' 1'(".'I('he" .houhl laC" rooke',l through hUI 1101 Inn"h). HClllo\,(' Ihr pOI frolll lit(' he':at nlltl le'I Ihr

e rj us 18 3 na\'oring Ingredienl-much lake \'lIItg3

more wtll known in the Uniled Slale8. TIlC� .... oro ciem't'8 frOIlHtf1JUJ. or

'" l:,rrecI1Jutrc," :lnd rders 10 Ihe Uice orullrtpe grape8. II' , ,, fnllly, ""lIilc J liqUId Ih:11 lends ilself natur"lIy to 80rbets , You <'"n usc a \'''flrIY of rnll18

1 )('.1('h(,8 ('ool ll1 lhe' . nil', l\(,IIlO\(, Ihe 11("3('hrIl I0 " rOIll:ulle( Urtluce Ihr I'0achhl� 1i11'11I1 1O

tills desscrt, but because the sorbet 18 \'cry lart, Ih(' fnlll should be'

aboul IlJ cup :uHI 1('1 cool 10 rooln IrlllpC'r;uurC", Athl tht' Ii)nil' 10 Iht'

til

p(,3rhl:'8 3ml r('rri�(,rJ1(' Ih(,111 10 dull. or (or " I' to 2 Ita ..

very sweet.

TO C O M r l £ T £

I n a howl,comluIIC lhc\,crJusnnd cOfl1 6ynap, Jll::J('('

FOR T H E SORBET

PlaC'C' " p('arh fOumt 011 (,3('h "t'n'1I1� pln1r nlut IUp Wllh

a 3111al1 3roop (If 160rh('l.

in Ille rdflgerator UIIIII cold, FrcC!7e the sorbet base III an icc cream lJ1aciunc Herno\'(' tilt· florbe't 10 a covered contalller ami store in the (rec7er, Thlli 18 best ealell .... ubm a dny. bUI it can he held

llQU10

One 750,ml bottle " j\P, dry �hll" �Ine, such 0\ Soll'<'onon DIone

quart. 60 you ".. ill have t'xtra sorhel. F O R T H E P E AC H E S

POACH ING

the freclcr for 3 few clays. It IIInke8 ahollt I

Bnngthe poadllngh'llllli and hone I0 3 tunUlicr

3 cups wote,

III 3 small saucepan , �h·all.... llIlc. blanch the peaches III hOlllllg .... atrr J II81 10 100sel1 Ihe

cup 'UOOr

Juice of I lemon

skillS. I\elllo\'c the Jlco1ches. dllll them 111 3 1m.... 1 of Ire .... ;lIrr. and pcd Sialld a. peach on

clIlllng hoard .... llh IIH' I)lelll rllil pOlrulll� tip afltJ cut

3 slices rrom Ihc I'l'aeh by llIaklllg crillal \('rllral ellili aroulHl lht< JIll (an a.

Irla ngular fihapc), Hcpcal .... lIh Ihe rrlllalnlll"; PC3l'h CUI a round frolll

caeh slice

\\ Ith

a '/, Inch cutlcr (or .... hall·\Cr

1i11l:

)OU 1I;I\r)

WhclI llal' poaclllll� hqultl 18 blmrnt'nllj{. :lIlcl Iht' pr3r11 rounds, COver wllh a PICCt' of paper IO.....e1 (10 kt'l'p Ill(' peach rollIIeJ " 8uhnlt'rgt'd),

Bnng lit(' .... 11Ie' In 3 1.011 111

li3111'('l'an S"" 1 1I1 nfr allY fo.. m th31 h.,,, (IIi('1I

10 Ihe' lOp. Ihl:'l1 .II M th(' .... ll('f anLl fillgJr ItrlUtll lilt' 11I1',ul In II hllli 111111 IIl1r IIlml lll(' till..:;,r hall tllltllnhrtl 1t(, 1II1I\(, 1111' p:m frulll lh(' h('f11 ,uul lillr IIl lhe Irlllull JUll'(' Sturr Ilirl ('0\ ('rrll 1'01l11l1l1('r IJI lht" n·fn..:rr"wr fur u l' 10 1l('\('rll .... r(''''' ''

"Aulud" H h u h. , ,' h Cn l l r i L w i t h

CONFIT

�uv(.> l

till

OJ'nl1�cH.

SOl'bOt

MASCARPOHE SORBET

I 10'00 egg while

l/" cup s.uoor

I pound moKOrp<>nC, at room temperature

1/" tcospoon vanilla eldraC1

1/" cup ptus 2 tablespoons water

2'/, WI>' SImple Syrup (..,., No'.), cold

RHUOARO

2 'talks rhubarb

V" cup 'tesh lemon Juice

V2 cup novel orange 5CCtions

CANOIED FENNEL

P t R O U E T T E C O O K I E S � ", lC( s 1 2 TO 2 .

I lmall fenncl bulb

2 tablespoons ( I ounce) unsoiled bl,"cr,

lil lumon

(usc smoll novel oranges)

'h cup porfslenne bolls (sec pooe 203) of 5trowberry

at room temperoturo

PInch of salt

1/" cup powdered sugar

Fennel 011 (page 1 66), In 0 squcez.e bo"'e

2 cups water

4 tablespoons plu, 2 teaspoons

Powde,ed sugar, In 0 shaker

I cup sugar

oll·purp<»O flou" sifted nrin� thc Hug3r and w.'lcr to 3 8imJllcr

slirring oCCJ8ion311y uillii the sugar dissolves, Add the fennc1 and cook

In n lunall Haucep:w, M('tlllwhllc, cut of( the ends of the rhubarb.

gently ovc:r low heal unlil Ihe fennel 18 tr311slucent, about I hour,

FOR

T I t E R lt U 6 A R It C O N f t T

dlrccnrdlng any IC3V('H, :uul UHe a parlJlg knife 10 Htrlp aW3Y the 81r1ngtl

Itemo\'c Ihe fenncl 3nd syrup 10 a contamer and allow it 10 cool to room

thIlI nlll thc 1" IIgth of tlU' HwlkA,

telllpcrature, Cover 3nd refrigerale the fennel for 3 few hours 10 chill; il

Adc1 till' IrimulIng810 lIu' K3l1cc:p3n alld IIIJl1mCr for alWUI 2 Illiuutes

w,lI keep for up 10 a month,

1(, illfllH" IIII' Hynlp, Straw and dlHcOIrd IlIe IrlrnllllllUtl, HelUrn the hal

FOR TH[ MASCARPON[ SORB£T

liynl" 10 tlU' liiWee"tlJI alUl ,.lnec: ovcr low hcat.

bowl, then plnce the miXlure i n a blender and pulse a few tirne8 10 blend

Slier tht' rhuharh CroIiKWIIi(' into

II,

Mix lh e ma8carponc and syrup i n a

Inch IilicCII, 'nlere IIhould he

thoroughly. Frcc1.e the mixture In all Ice� cream 1l13chine; when it is

allolll I Clip, Add lilt' plerl'A Ii) IIII' liyrt.p Mill poach ror 5 10 7 J11l11l1leA, or

011111061 fr01.cn, add the lemon Juice and complele Ihe freezin ', Herno\'c

1In1i1 llw Hllcl'H 1Iff' 1" Iul,'r IIuI IHI..,t'n' I IOIil ltwlr KhaJll', Place liI(' rhuharb

to OJ covered cOl1laincrand 810re in the frcelcr, The sorb 'I is hcst the day

lind it" Ayn.!' I I I II ,'onlniner and cool 10 room ICIlIJlcrnture. then cover

il lS made. hut II can be siored for up to 3 day8,

IIUfl refrlgc'r:ltt' tllC' COllrl! for n r,·...... hUllrH, or up 10 a "'eek,

f O R TIt( P I R O U [ T T E C O O K I E S

r O R T II [ C A N D I ( O r L t. Il f l

Trirn :,w" Y lhc lOp oflhe fcllIH'1 3111I any

hUlle'r Hl a bowl and 81ft the powdered sugar over 11. �hx with a wooden

Prchcai lhe oven to 350oF, Place the

IOIlHh or ),rullI" tt OUIKiell' In),e'r,,_ YOII 'II nl"'c! 1101111 IIhl'clli of fenncl, CUI

spoon 10 cream the nllxture, Stir In half Ihe nour, Mix III the egg white

3/. iul'll Ihit-k Klle·" ft of (elllll'l ""'rtlcally Illrollgh Ihe rool cnd. working

uml Ihen Ihe rell13111ing nOllr, Add the vanilla exlraCI and beal the

)'ollr wily orollllli tilt' f('llIwl lO ('ul lhe he'ltl "Ii ('A,

.mxlllrc unlll well blended and creamy.

1'111 11 Klllnll Kauce'fuHl with wlllt'r, 1111114'(" 1' In tilt' Ju,ce of Ihe Icmon hnlf. 111111 tulll tIll'

tlll l !.

Add till' Kllt" '1i of rt'lIIll'l to IIII' ,., n and I)fJJI� to a

CUI a narrow siencil G I/� inches by 'I• • nch (a man,la file folder works well for tI1l8). Place" S,lpat (lieeSourccs. page 3 1 5) on the counler Place

11011, "" 4Iu('I' tlU' hr;1I Hud HIIlIllI,'r ror 10 111' 111114'11, or unlil lhc fennel III

Ihe 81encll III one corner of Ihe Silpat amI. holding It nal agall18t the

Icud" r II IUl lhc'((' IH 1111 rf'KIHtnll('f' wlH'1I 111l' Hliceli af(' plt'rn'd \\ If It the tip

Sllpal, scoop some of Ihe hatter 01110 the hack of an offSCI spalul:l and

or It klllft" ,I r;1I JI ,

spread It In an cven layer over the slencil. It shouhl he thm bUI not

Bri!lf.( III(' 2 ('''PH Ornttter 0.111 1 I If' fliluartn II lIoil III a Hmall HaUCeptln,

270

P I' l u t e l n p H

C u n d led Pe n n e l . n n d �hU4CUJ'pone

Thll rrondl L a u n d r 'l' C o o k b o o l..

tr;1UAl 'arent, HUll Ihc I;Jlatula o\'er the top of Ihe enllre slenc.1 to remove:

any excess batler. Rcpe:u with the remaining b:mt'f. llp3cmG the ('oo\."el about } '11 Inch�linp3n. Plact' the Sllpat on :l baking sheet 3ntl bake 011 tite! top rotck of lhe ovcn for 5 to 6

II1I11UIt'S. or lIlIlI) Iht' cookie!! :ue 6c:t ami h�11I gohJclI

brown. Pull out Ihl! oven rack \\ ith the! haklng shect on tt. IC3\C thc door open and \\ork from the ovcn rack shelf. Should the cool,('s hnrdt'n beforc theY :lfe rolled. close the O\'eo door O11ld rey, 3r1ll thC'Jn hnen to 80ften. Helllovc a cooklc from tht' 1'311 and Immt'lll:nel) \\ nll 11 In 3 spiral ;around a I . lOch doy,d or a "ooden 8poon h: mdlt' of Iht'

�' IIlt'

dHIIHclCr: II will lillffcn alm08t IIUUlt·t!13Idy. Slade lilt' (ookle off the dowei and (Ontlflllc to (orm the cookle8, tore III an aU'ught cOI1l:uncr for ) to 2 dil)8 (you' II need only 6 cookl(�s for tl1l8 desst'n) TO C O M P l t T £

Bemo\'c a plcce of c;audlt'd fcnnel from tht' 8 rup.

dralil. and cut 11 11110 St ripS ahOUI ' t lllcil y,ldC'. Cut thc fennd hlnp on the

tim 'onal lllio 'it mch (h;unonds. Continue 10 cut enough f('nnel la

make 3 tablcspoons of fennel dlamond8, mcscn e any rcmaullng ft'lInrl to garnish another dcssert or for allot her (lst'.) nCllIo\'c lb. Clip rhubarb from the poach mg 1I(luuJ; rcscn e the re'bt for another usc. Arr:mgc c(lual porllons of Ihe or:lIlges. fura"ht'rnt·8. fennel d ,amolldli. and rhubarh on each of SIX plate". Dn111c \\llh a l illie' of the rhubarb poachlllg Ilflllill and the (cnnd 8)OIp.

lluft'£(' :1 ft·y,

drops of fennel 011 around tach fruit bal:ul 1'l3et' 3 quen('lIe (st·t· p3gC

274). or small 8COOp. of 1Il38C.1rpOnc borbel atOll ('aeh IiOll3d IltuH

£.

pirouette cookies \\ lIh po.... dt'fcd sUlo;ar 31Hi St't onc on 101' of (,,3t'h qucnelle of sorhel.

HOT[

Cn'C Immctllatcl .

SlllIplc S) nlJl IS used lit sc\t'ral of Ilit'sC d('ssert rrclJlt's You rail

makc a batrh 31111 81Ort' It cO\'t'rrd In Iht' (C·fngcralor for I'It'\('ral ,,('('ls lilng liz cup cach sugaf and \\3Icr\\11I gl\l' )OU ahout '. t CIII) 1'1) ni l' BnnK c( lual parts of bugar and y,3lt'r to fI h011 1lt oJ h(':I\')' 8au('('llan. hl lrnng 10

1 111\1' I hlllllll h.

IIlul 1"'11' 1 1 1 111''''

dI88olve' llIl'tiugar Hl'rnO\(' from ti ll' ht':u. lt, t cool 10 fOOIll 1l'1I11}('f.llUfI'. and thcn (C·fnger.lIt'. li l li ' l i n 1 1 11

I I'"

1 I',llIlh- 111""1 111 P'J l II'

" 1 1 I 1t1·1I

1/I·"llIlflll. I·'·fl l· .. h l l l � dl· ....'· I· • •

Nt-clll l'hl(!

S u l u d w i l l i G I'(!(-n T O l n n t o C o n f l t u l'L' n n d H n zc l u u t

H A Z E L N U T S A 8 AY O N

GREEN TOMATO CONFITURE

DACQUOISE

Julienned zeit and Juice of I lemon (sea Nota)

I cup (3 ounces) ,lIced blanched almond"

Julienned �t and Jul(O of I limo

nhn�'oll

I/} cup heavy O'com

2 large COO yolks

finely O,ound In a coffee mill

Julienned lOSt and Julco of I orange

I cup sugo,

3 tablespoons sugo,

4 medium o,ecn tomatoes (I POUnd 10 ounces)

2 loblcnpoons cornslorch

1 112 teaspoons hazelnut oil

'll cup wolor

'I, cup egO whiles (2 'a 3 egg whl'es)

'I, cup diced d,led flC<lc"" (II,.lnch dice)

Powdered sugo,. In a shaker

IIJ cup oolden (olslns

I 'I" cups plus 2 tobl�poon, pocked lIoht brown IUOO'

Ono ' ·Inch picco olnoe(

I toblospoon sherry vlncoo,

IWr"\'C' thl"

Blend Ihe almonds. lIs cup of the sugar, and the cornslarch togelher

dc·Riierl-....holt' . IItct:lrillc8 liheed and "rchuih"

IOJlIH!ci vt'll h a conrilure o( grec'n IOmalOcl1 and dilCfl uOISC , .....hich

in a rood processor Unlit the JIuls arc very finely ground.

CIIII he II1mlc' Wf,'I'kH :lhcad :lIId kepi In the rcfnger:uor. The daccluoi8c

In a mixer bowl. whip Ihe egg ..... hites :II mcdium speed until Ihey to hold their shape, Ihen IIIowly add Ihe femaining lIs cuI' sugar.

rcclpe' will makt, lIIure conklcl1 th:ln you ,wed. Inll II iH cH(rlcu\t to make

SHirt

IIII' hailer In n Hrnallc·r fl tlilIHity.

Cominue 10 whip ulilil lhe mcrlllb'ue holds stir( peaks and is silky and shiny (Iikc sh:lvlngcream). Thoroughly fold the dry ingredients into the

FOR

T It ( G R l U 4

T O M AT O C O t H I T U R t

Comhlllf' lhc cunJll zcslti ln

UlIHlcr Iht tiklll or Ihc' lOlII:ltoC8 O\'er" g:lK narnt'. under n IIroller. or IIIllng a blowtorch. IIlrnlng Ihe t0Il1:110CH (or ('n'n hillucring. Uemo\'c Ihe

you Will usc III assembling thc rllushed dish) 10 Clit 8 Clrclcs ill the

Hkllll1 hy ruhlllllg Ihe 101II"lOc'R WHit a 11('W pOI Hcmhhcr (no HO:1p) untler

dac(lllOIIIC8. Ht'lUrn 10 Ihe oven (or anolher 15 to 20 minutes: Test by

,ullnl! H3UCCJltlll. acid cold ....aler . to CO\'C'r. ancl hring 10 a hoil. Oralll lll a

Rtrllincr lind rlnlic lIJ1der coM ....·nlcr. SCI aHlclt'.

cnl d \\'illl'r.

hreaklng orf a licrap plcce and ICIling II cool fOf a minUlc. I ( it crisps.

CUl lhc 1OIIIIIIc)I'8 hun It. filch tlu'C' (nhnul 4 CII I 'S) alltl placc' IhclI1 ITI

rcmo\'C the rest (rom the o\'cn; olhcn\'Jse, contuHlC cooking Ihem (or a

II Halleepan with lilt.' CltrlUl 1Ctlili :l l I l tht rc'lIl:lllllllg IIIgrcclieJll8. CO\'cr with a " nrchlllem lici (tI('{' page 1 ')0) arHI ,U III ItH'r (or nltoul I liz hOUfH. or

lillie longer. Wht'JI Ihe d:lquOJ8C8 arc done and still warm. recut them

i ·

Ulling the 8:lUle cliller. I( Jleccssal)·.

H 'move thc cooklcs rrom the sh 'cl

1111111 IIIf' 101I1I1I0t'K nrt· IrnllMlucc'nt nrlll (ully cookecl nwl Iht, hCl lllcI iii

With a iiJU:l1I o(fr1cl lil'atula.

(('eluced nnd Iiyrllpy (Illn 1101 Iptill' lulIllICk 1I1lIuIJII"Y).

Me:lI1wlllle, ,.Iace Ihe rcmaining h:llIcr i n a pastry hag with a '2 ( lIt mclt) plalll i l p :1Ilt! pipe IIlto 4 - to 5 inch sl icks on the liccolld

rOA

T lH

OACOUOIH

Jlrt'iu'al IIU' m'e'n Ie> 300°F. 1.1Ilt' 1.... 0 baking

tlhet'llI with jlarchllleJlt paper.

272

rnerlllb'lJc. USing an orrset Sl':llula. SI)read hal( Ihe bailer in a very thin layer onto olle parchment -lined baking shcet. Bake (or 10 minutes. Ihen remove (rom lilt' O\'en and usc a 2 1h inch round eulter (or whatc\'cr size

T i l li F , . n c h

Lound,y Coo�boo�

parchuu:nt -hned iJakingshecl, llold thc l ip slightly ahO\'c the pan asyou

pipe Ihe daquol5e. r.:ather th..:an :lb'31 115t It. 50 tlull the b:luer c�n fall .:and hold a rounded shape. BJke for 30 !lunute•. Tesl ali 3bo\'(� lind rrmo\e from the sheet \01 hen done. Store the da quol8e5 Ulan :urtlght C01l1all1CrUn111 rc.:ady to 36sernble

the dessert. TIley arc befit used wilhln a day. 3S hUlIlIdllY may c:luse them to soften. F O R T H E H[CTARINE STACK\

Cut the flcsh of thc ntct3nncs .:a\Ola\

from the JlIIS. sllcmg It off III t"o\'ertlcJI gllces. oneon eJch lude of Ihe pit Cut Ihe pu:ccs crosswISe mto (lJper than shcn

Ol;.tf roundl1). Pbc('

d3cquol!�e round m lhe bottom of a 2 112 mch rlllg mold. 0\ crlap the sllc('s of one nectanne :lrollnd the m81de of the mold. skin Side 0111. tlI3elmg them unltl you h3\'e used the "hole ncct:lrIliC or reachc:d the top of the mold, nlCre "III he :l hole III the ccnlc:r. Fonn 5 more !l13Ck" <)ou \01111 hr ahle to mo\'e them once the are made. hrCJU8C Ihc:y ha\'(' " .mlill h38C') F O R T H E H A Z ( l H U T \ADAYON

Pour3hout 1 " , IIlches of \Ol 3ter anlO

a pOl lha1 18 slightly smaller than the Uletal hO\Ol1 of a nll),er /lntl heat JUItI unltl hol. Ml'aO\\)u!e, III a medium howl . wlll)1 the. cream 1 0 IHcltnllu peal" Sct aSide. IliaCI! Ihe egg yolks aud bugar In the metal IIIlXc:r bo\Ol 1. alltl .... tusk o\'cr Ihe hot waler ulltll the sugar h3s dlbsoheil alltl lhe mu,turc ha8 1hlckencd to the nhbon stag(' ("hell the \OIhll�\.. 18 IIflt'd. tht' mlloture

Will hold some shape as II f3118 hacl I lito thc ho,,1) Place tht· hO\Ol1 on the IllIxer 8taIH I anti \OIhl l' UlllIl lht' IIIlloturt' hms cooled. MIX IIllhe all. Hcmo\'c the bo,, 1 frolll ilie mach,,\(: and .... llIsl III about one quartl'r of the crcam to IIghtclI the IIl1".turt<

Folt! III lilt'

remallllllg h)lI(l(led cream. S,)oon ahout 2 tabiespoolls of 83ha)on 01110 Iht' ('('liter of tach plale Center a nectanne !llaek III the &aucc alll) tol' C'Jeh "llh a cl ut'ndle: (bee: page 274 ) , or small 8COOp. of IOrnatO ('onflturt' Spnnllc (, ,bct luouie !ltlcks wHh pO\Olt!ercd sugar and rt'/lt Iht'tn all tht' ('uuflturt'

HOT [

Usc a /ester to rcIllO\(' Ihl' CllnJli lel111, In )uhrJlnrd titrlpb

0. . . . , '

'71

L STRAWBERRY SORBET

M .u' U

1 OU .... f

21/,1 pounds sirawberrles, prcfcrab'y oroonlc,

rinsed and hulled

'12 tcospoon kosher salt

CR£ME FRAlcHE

1 '12 tC05poonS sugar

VA CUp crbme (ralehc

U C E MArtS

CUP

II, leaspoon bakJng powder

I lablespoon plus 1 '12 lcospoons sugar, or to tasle

'IA cup honey, or 10 loslo

VA 1COSpoon bokJng soda

IIA ...anUlo bean, spHI

1 cup superfIne sugor

4 tablC1poons (2 OUncC1) un!.Olted coM buner,

Pinch of kosher solt BISCUITS

M .u' U 8

J/A cup chopped strawberries, draIned

cut Inlo chunks

1 '12 cups oU.purpose flour, �us a Ilnfo oxtro

About 112 cup bullermllk

Sugar to laSIe

2 tablespoon s milk

Powdered sugar, in a shaker

for culling the blKUlll

l l thc cOll1pOnunlK of this d"ss,'rl can he made ahcad . The

COIlSl:lnlly unul the sugar IS c!assolved. Henlovc the 8nucc from Ihe heat

uncoukcd IJIAcuit8 c:ln hc (rlllff} :md bilked dirc'ctly from Ihe

and 8traln through a flnc· mcsh lilr,11ner Keep Ihe sauce \\'arrll. or cover

(reN.cr, Or.

sh,ct, Ihe hiseull douhlclt easily. you may \\'anl 10 make a

douhle halch and (rcull! half the uJlilakc:lI l.i8CUIIK for 3flolhcr lunc.

and rcfngcr:llc urllll ready 10 M·J'VC. Sweeten the drained chopped str:1h'hcrncs Wllh sug.1r 10 t:lstc. TO C O M P l [ T (

f O R T li t S T R A W B E R R Y S O R B E T flIIIJ Klrnin throu,.;h 1'1 (me mesh iii

Pur�r lht' 8Irawht'rrt(,K l n a hlt'ndcr

'\'C 11110 a ho..... l. You should havc nhoul

1 cups. Add Ihe hOII('Y. tUlJII:rflllc 8I1K:lr. awl Rnlt, Pn'c/c III a n Ice cream

Hewarm lhc erc1mc frn1chc sauce over 10" heat, .

ut liar blSCUll8 1n10 Ilcal rounds " Ilh a I liz Inch biSCUit cullcr nnd split them I n half, Dusl lhc lOpS Wllh po\\ dercd sugar Put a spoonrul o( snucc on each p);lle , Top wllh Ihe 1101101118 o( Ihc

lIIt1chint'. Ill('n ((tHlIi(" r I(J a conl:litwr nud plnce IIl lhc frcell'r.

hlbcuil8. Spoon I h · chopped hcrrlcs ovcr the biscuits :ll1d eovcr cilch

f O A T t ll O I S C U I T S

wllh a qucllelle bee hdoh'). or8milll scoop. of sorbel, SCI the IOJlS orthe

51ft Iht' elry IIIgredu.·I1tK Inlo a howl. Add Ihe

hUller nud ruh I IIf' hUIIt'r llnd nour Ihrough your flngcrllpK unlll lhry arc

1)l8e1l1l8 on Ihe sorbel aJHl sen'e.

cUlIlp!('lt'!Y comhincd and lh.: hUllt'r Ifl ill HIIHlll ll('ndK. Mnkc'a "dl l n the

PI C T U U D ON ' A G I 2 7 7

$ l R "' O 8

cl'nlcr o( III(' nour mixture' nnd pour III '12 cup iJullt'rmtlk :lI1d Ihe .mlk.

UMC n dough flC'r:I I'l'r 10 IllcorpUnllt· IIH.' milk and nour. pulllnK lilt· nour

HOW TO

MAKE

ONE·SPOON

OUENEllE

rrom thc Cclj{I'M lU .....nnl thc C(·UIt'(. 1 ( 1 111' dough 'Wt'UlH 100 dry. add :I lillic mort.' hUIIf'rmllk. 'J ht· ("118111'" dough Jlhould ft·(·I IJnrnp. hUI nOI ....(·I. . nnd

QUt'.wllc'., arc tYJJlCillly milde wllh t"O SJlOOIlS. hut the cdg('less 0\',11

he a "HhnKKY mCHK." nol n MolHI mll1l8,

cn'alcd by dra"lng il 8Jloon Ihrough SOIlll'lhlug sl1100lh like ICC cream or

Turn Ihe tlnuKh tlut 01110 p:lrChllll'1l1 anll lt'l fI'HI for 10 10 15 nll l1ul('8.

mOUSIit' 18 3 morc c1egnnt shape. To make n Olle sJloon qlH'llclle. you

Prl'hefll Iht· oven tu 500°F. Slilck I"() hnklng IIIIC'elK (for mort' ('ven

necd it cup of \'C'ry hot \\alcr. :16POOII (" h08(' lmw) \\ 111 dCll'rJIIIIIC Ihe Slle

IlI'llt dlKlrlhullnn) allli plll('I' (I plt'Ct· o( pnrchrnl'lIl on lap, Plftcc till' clUIIHh fIn n "Khll)' nouff·d \\nrk Hur(nC(' and roll 0111 112 inch Ihlck, DI" ft 2 ilU'h hlll(,tHI ('utll'r III nOllr nnd cut OUI roundli. Plnct· 'ht' rollllllfJ 2 Hlrht'H upnrl 011 1111' haklllj{ sht" 'l Bnkt· for n In 1 0 1111111111'8. or 1111111 Kflltll'" hm\\n. Trnlll�f" r 10 a r.1ck

274

watcr 110 !I 'lt hal. lIold Ihe "I 'oon Wilit Iht' rOIlI1c1t'cI lJolIOIll up. pl:lc(' Ihe far edKe of IIw tipoon InlO the nm:lurc. \\ Ilh Ihe nenr ('liSt., c1oa(' to the lilIr(acc' hut not IOlIrlllng. and dr.1g the spoon 1O\\ard ),011. Tile: Ill IXlUrt.·

)ou ' re' tiCrilplng sllolllll curl \\ llh III(' aha pc or Ihe fiJlOOII.

0111111111.' thl' crc'fllt' fralcht' and

J�or till' 1It'81 flh:lpC. drag only OIlCl' through Ihe' JtuXlUre; dIp and clt'an

HIIWIf III n 11111011 ,Ullu:l·pnfl. Scrape· Ihl' 8t'I'd8 frolll til(' vnlllJla llC'lUl IlIto

your Ii!,oon ror each 11('\\ quem'lIe. 1 1 1:lkCH 601111' prarllce,

Ihe crl!lIIc' rrnlcl il'. IIdd IIII' )lOci. nlHI hrlnK 10 :a Klmlllt·r. h'hlHklug

PIC f U t t O

T h e F r e n c h l q " n d r y C o o lo. b o o lo.

As )OU dr:I�,

1\\'1,,1 )our "filii up 1111111 the ( l ut'Ill'llt· roldg o\cr I tsel f 11110 an l'gg bhapc.

to cool. F O R T li t C R E M [ r R A- I C tt ( S A U C [

of the I I IICIH'II(·). AIIII whalcveryou' f(' "c l ucndllnK," Dip Ihe hpooll in Ihe

all

P A Ci f 2 9 5

S I I'U\\' hl' I' I'Y H U t i C h n lHIlHunt'

Tt'I'I'llh'

STRAWBERRY LAYER

CHAM'AGH( LAYER

2 plnts ( I liz poundlo) lotrowberriC1..

I V.. CUps Champagne

prCfCfObly Ofgonkolly grown

3 gelatln �!o (� S�.IICH. pooe 3 1 5).

2 fa 4 loblclopoonlo loUpcrfJnc lougor 311, oclolln lohcCflo,

!.OOled In cold

3 toblclopoon!o Champagne

1fJ cup cr

Pinch of ko!.hcr 10011

wolt"f 10 "<)hen

3 11J loble\poon!o ,upctllna WOO'

1000kcd In cold walcr 10 100flcn

frokhc" whJPP«t

Small mini Icovelo

elll(�8 appl'ar often III our deMi�rhi 3nd elst'\o\ 11I:r� In Iht' 1IIt'31 5uch

capaCII) ('hOOlit' '' p.tn ,, " 11 tht' I.trJIghIC"lt IIhiu 10 kl'l'll llic- 11\)('('" lht'

38 fhe jl'lI) made out of Gc\o\untrallllllc r for Ih(" fOlt' hrati

8alllt' Ihlt'lllt'U. If \our p:lIl nar"" al lhr 10 1 ', U't' a ll11lt' ('xlra ror t',,('h

dease'rts. " jdl) can 1:I\.;:(' lhc plac(' of " bO)'nlll. We: made Champahl1t' j("\1

1 3 t' r :'IS I\(,(,(," :tl) IU t'OJll IH"ntlillt', ll'("PII1� Ihl' 13)rr" tht' ,"lIIllt'

fO 3CC0I11I)30) 3 l.. 1 r horhel for a Klr Ho ale tie8s("n I tcre, "t' "('1'\(' a

" moM IllIrlnt'u) . Allo\\ Iht' IHlrf't' 10 1('\('1 1I1I1 .lllt! rlll lhl' hCllhlln uf t l ..

Ch:U11Il3gnt' jell) Vollh purel'd and gelled �1r.J..... bt·rnt'1i h' 8 a �ootl na\Or

e\('nl) I\('fn�('ral(' 'hI:' 1I\01d In 3110\0\ Ih(' p"r('(' 1U 11('1 ('otuple'I('I)

comlJlnatlon. hl'ahhful anll IIghl. a'H I . �t'l'\ed 38 a ternllt', a Sl Il\pl(' fr(,lIlt

roa

Hc(

C H A M ,. " C, H £

LAYlR

\'\1111(' Ih(' rm!lt

IJ. rr Ill'lIl. lU1i1 lilt'

TIle J('II) bhould be bet hut KitH "ol1hl) for an degallt h').turt'

Champa�llr fur 3 II1IIUllr 10 rrllHl\r Ih(' ill('ohl)l. alllJ\lIHII� nff au) "('Ulll

Orb'ant('all) gro" n str.t\\ hl'rnl's ha\(" Ih(" ft\o\eet('sl n.1\or, \\11,,'h .I'

Ihal nlj('Ii 10 Ihl" IOJI \tt'3J1iurr 0111 I rup IIf thl' t,;h.llIlp.l�IU· (tlIII""n' thl'

tlcs�crl

Illtcnslfll'el hy cJl) 11lg' thl'III I)\ crlllghl Although the.- lernne.- "" 11I l..t'l'p for

r('al). \\ nllgulil thr gl'bl lll ll\hl'l'l" :lU" 1'1,,((, Ihrlll In " 1."\'11 Sur thr hUI

IH·\,cr., 1 dayti. Ihl' Challl p.1gll(' la)l'r. h iliell

Ch311l ItJ�n(' Inlo the �e1alln, Ihl'lI �lIr III tltr t'lI�;lr to ,1a""IlI\ I' . 1",'1 lilt'

III

cie:'!r Iht' till)' It

Iii

m:ull',

\\111 reddl'1I :tllli Ihe Inlcn�e ('olor of lite lilra\o\bc:rl) 13)cr " III btll' :lflt'r

the first tla) .

Ch3IUp:agllr IIIU;lurt' lool l U rllolll l t'III}tl'r.)IUft'. \l:1u'u Ih(" �Ira.... hl'rl) 1:I)l'r '" M·I 101' It "tlh (I t:ahll'M lltlUnti ur Ih� h3I11PJ�n(' "'1).ltlrl' JIIII rrfn�rr"ll" unlll bl'l Contulul' Ihl' 101 t"nflK

pro("rh� tllIlll )IlU h3\ r IlIrl'!" b.)l'flIi ur �lr.\Vo hl'rn illlll l .... u 1;(ChJII1 I '.lgllr

ganillih

lIull llit· rt'lIlallllog hl'rnes ,11111 Il'l t;JI at room tt' IIIJ!l'rJIUrl'

I f )011 tlltl'd " "lrJtKhl I'lIil'II 11"n. Ihrrl' "III h(' u hult- 1',lr.1

Tht, fulh'"lng da , PUrl'(' Iht, litra"" ht'rnes anti (.train Iltt' 1)llrt·1'

Kt'nll) 1I1',"' lht'1II U\f'r 3 liJIIlrpilfl .,r ""MIII .... al('r jllst untll lhl') 'Wfll'l\, L ltlng .. - 1 2 !lIrlllll h.tllrr ( Iit lullull l'.lrllul·1I111' hull ..

through a chuu)ls (M'e I 'agl' 73) Willig a blllall latllt' 10 hl'lp 1Il0\t' I I

TO ( O M I' L I T a

through thl' hirallll'r \tC:'!bllrc OUI I I , J'UJlli o f purllt' ,'Iltl bllg,lf 1 0 1. .,,11';

(brl' Ilagl' 2U U rrulU Ihl' rr�l'l'\rll ,M.IVobt'rrln f()q �arnl"h

the pun'I' ..houhl lIl' on tilt· b\\('t"

nr ('.I('1t

II\I).turr ShulIl.1 ('nhrr uf Ihl' IIIlltllr('" lit'l uJl hrforr 1111 Mr rlllIMIII'11.

o\'('rntghl lO 11 1)' Ihl'1II ,.It�hll} anll 11l1c:rHilf) 1111" na\or

filiiI', !lUI I Itt' allluunt "III \ J I)

()UI( l.. h Ihl' lhr lJIuhi llltu hUI .... ..ll'r III lunltl'lI Ihl' Irrnnl'

Jllllnitl

e)JI1I) a ("tilling burf..lr L.IIIK" hUl lfi lfl' (1llJlfll'll l n lUll .... .IIt'r 11 1111 \II Il'l'd

:1('('onllllg 10 I lit, !11I3111) o f IhC' bl r;)" bt'rru'lj SqUl't·/l' llil' �':\l'l'bb "att'r from 111(' j.\C'lalill JIIlI ,,1.1(,t' Ihl' bhl'l'l" IU a

hrl"'l"l' n rJ(h ..lill'). I III I IU' Il'rnlll" 111111 11J Inrh rilltl'b .11111 pille r IlI lhl'

fo>mall liau('(' l'an \\1111 lli(' Challlp.lglIl· \\,1fI1i grllll}. bllrnll� 11) 11" .,ml\(,

lil'l'\ IIIK Ii 1 ..111'. GJrIllllh !"arls .tllth Vo llh .1 fl'.... hlm\o\ liN!)' holh,. ,1 111I1'''I·tI"

I ill' gdalill \11\ 11 111111 Ih(' btra"lH'rn !'urh' AlllI thl' 1i,11t Plan' () fahl('''poonl<l Qfth,· blra .... hl·rn purh' III tht' hUlllJlIl flf.1 MII:'II I IJIl·tal bn'.ld )Ian Clr molel ahout (, IIIl'ht'b 11)

:1 l Ilellt'li . .... lIh

a 2 ( UP

(!s(,f" )l3KI' 2711), ur K II",II m .tl lifflop, flf "" htPI"'ll ut-1I11' rr.l1t tit·, 111111 "')1111' tiIllJlI lIIlIll ll'a\f'b .

�". I �

I ' ' I _ ., I U (. '

0....,.

27$

In 'UlllplllI"

I',., L" "HHh: " " "n'lell'l

rlll\'fll'H or ItH' \' 1'1,", ,,, '-'O'"I)()lIC'III

l '1

1'I I " l Iwh.·," ')' Ho,'h.·I, w l '' '

I l i n 1 I c 1 c 1 l l l o , . or

216

11-11 1 011

HI " l lw h••,'""

... ,

Hho,'IL'lllu+-?O I " IIWh" " ,'h'H. ('."t'n lll,

pl'l,u,u'l'y 1111' HI ,'uwl,.·" " ,(,I'I,

\\'e'

Iliolu' II

'1'1 HI'npl)' plI " ('.',1 1'Il ,'uwh." ','h'H wltll 1)()lII'" n'H' I'IIIKI I " :

J I l Ic',- 11I'lul1ll'lI" I h , · tll'\'fll' o r Ihc' HI I'IIWhl" " ')c'H 1'\" ' 1 1 rll,'llI,',',

T h e F f ll n c h L o u n d f 'l' C o o l d JO o l

0."."

271

278

H U I F r an c h L a u n d r y C o o k b o o k

" B A N A N A Pon<.du.°d· n n n n n n

BAHANA ICE CREAM

Jeo

S P L I T "

C " couln w l i l l \\' h i l e Choco l n t c - Bn n n n u C " C P C H n n d Chaco l n t e S O l l e e

CRtPE fILLING

CHOCOLATE SAUCE

6 Jorgo bananas, peoled

Banana PO'� (r� from above)

8 ounces blnersweet chocolate, finely chopped

2 to 2'12 cups Cicom

About 9 ounces while chocolate, flne� chopped

2 to 2'12 cups milk

,/" tcospoon koJhcr $01t

I cup sugor

1 tablespoon Ught corn syrup

Few drops of lemon luko

M A IC U

OUAIU

'11 vonillo bean, spill

cup hco-.y Clcom

1 '12 1 0 2 cups sweetened whipped cream

1 0 laroo COO yolks

36 10 42 condled morella cherries

6 O."ert Cr6pes (POo- 1 27)

Pinch of kosher lOll

or maraschino cherries

ere's our nod 10 the old drive-in d3ya and :1 dC88Cr1 1 10\'cd 41 8 3 kid. All lhc coJllponcnl8 (or l his dC88t:rl C�Ul he m:ldc ahead. and i n (act

Place the sirained poaching Jicl uid i n :J large saucepan and bring to 3 simmer.

Ihc cr�JlcK mUHI he aS8embled and frolen iJefore lIerving. Once sliced,

Meanwhile, place Ihe egg yolks I n a howl. Whisk i n Ihe remaining

Ihe cr�Jlcli rCRemLle sliceR of hanana. 80 when YOLI make the crtl'CB. he

I/: cup sugar 3nd the 8.111 3nd whisk until the yolks have thickened

Iillrc 10 :,lIow Ihern to hrown and HJlot IlliglHly 10 give them the look of a

8lightly and IiglHenecl in color.

hn n:ulII peel.

Whisk O1hout one third or the hOI eream into the yolks 10 temper Ihem, then return the mixture to Ihe sauccp01n. Cook the custard over low

F O R T It ( D A H A N A l e t: C R ( A M crenm.

Pbcc the hananas,

2 ell l"J or the milk. and '/: CUJl or the Hug:tr i n

2 CUp8 or Ihe

heal. 81irrillg con81alllly with 3 wooden 8Jloon, unlH it has thickened and

:I large saucepan,

coal8 1he hack or lhe spoon. Immediately pour the custard into a howl set

Sern l't' Ihe 8ceclIJ rrolll Ihe \'o1 nflla hc.1n Inlo Ihe pan and add Ihe Jlod. Cover the hnnruHlK wllh a picccorpaper lowe! (10 kccp thcm submergcd) and heill Hlowly ror 1 0 10 1 5 minules. 1)0 1101 Rllllnll'r I l u' nmclure, keep

II jUKt under thnt poilu. 80 Ihal Ihe hau;m:Ui poat'h III t he hal liqUId.

Pierce Ihe hamllHlIJ wilh n klllrC Ihey should he 80rt bill nol mushy, BCll10vc I II ' 1'"1','r IOwcl anei vanilla hcan and d'Hco1fcl. Uelllovc' tile' hamuuI" rroUl the IHI II anel dr,111l lhCIII \',·ell. Sirnin the

Str.1in Ihe custard ;lnt! refriger.1tc until it i8 very cold «or the crcamiest texlurc, rdrigcro1lc ovcrnight), Frecl.e the icc cream III nn icc- cream machine. Remove to a covered conlaillcr and placc in the freezer. The icc cream is best the day it is made. hut jl can he kepi ror 2 days hdore serving. FOR THE CREPE FILLING

Thcmost prcci8c way to makethe filJing is

Jmal'hlng Iifl 'lId through a cJIIIIOiH (lice page' 73). There should he

10 weigh the hannna pur�e ;lIId combine i l wllh half its weight in white

-1 ('up" or lif l lllli! ir 1101, adcl lhe ,lf rrt'rc'lIce in adtlilloll:ll cream and/or

chocobtc. Follow thai rormula ir you ha\fc marc or tess than

milk. Placc' Ihe IIallllllall illlli

any IUIK or h:II1:IIHI Idl in Ihe strainer III il

pur�el ror

2 cups or

2 CUp8. use 9 ounces or chocolate. I t is imponanl Ihal the

rood prOCCHlior nlld hlelld wcll. Ihen Kcr:IJle Ihe pllr�e through II talllis

J1ur�c and the Inched chocolate arc the samc tcmperature whcll they arc

(lief' paKe 7:1). You Khollill hnve' ahollt

combined.

Ihl" to liRe ror Ihe eri'pc rilling,

280

in an ice�w,1ter hath. and stir oeeatlionally until the custard has cooled.

TIIII

rlonch LnundlY Coo�boo�

2 CIIJlR or h;uuma puree, HeHen't'

PI3ce the while chocol31c in a melal 00\11 1 . I('t it o\'cr a �uct'J>lln of hot w3tcr. and heat gently. lit i rn ng. until melted and smoolh,

Meanwlllle. w;um the b3n3na J>ur�e (a miCrO\ll'3\'t' \IIork. \II dl for this). Transfer the pur�e 10 3 food prOCt'88or. add the ",'3nn melt('d \II hilt' chocolate. and process 10 blend. Add Ihe 631t 3nd lemo n

JUICC

and

process just t o comb i ne . Refrigerate Ihe pur�e forse\'eral houri. or up to

2 dayli. to firm, Trim the cdgc8 of the eref.es to sqlL3re them. Spoon one 61).th of the cooled fi lling 3crOS8 the lowcr lIunl of a cr�pe. al1ap mg It mlo a reclanglr approximately 5 inche8 by 2 lIIchu, Turn up the bottom of Ihe cr�pe to

encase the (i lli ng a nd genlly roll up the crcpe uuo a C)landt r. Holl the fllird c repe up in Illasllc wrap and IWlst the ('lids of the Wf3P to hdp 1II0id thr

sl1.1p(', ne llcat wnlt the rern:ll ntng ('r�lles anti (1Ihng. Pbcc tht' (lIl1liht'd crepcs ill the (reezer for at Icast a (ew houn or up to 2 \II eeks. ([ad 1 (rolcn crepe will scn'c 2 t0 3 people. depcntllngon Its lc nb'lh after tnmmlng.) F O R T H E CHOC OLATE SAUCt

Place 111(.' chocol:ate

11\ a ho", 1. Unng

the crcam and corn 8Yrup to a hoil . Pour Ihe hOI h'luitl o\'cr thc chocolate and ;lllow II to 81t for a (c..... rtllOUtC8 1o melt the chocoble. then IItir Ulltll slUooth. TIlC sauce can he re fnge rOi ted for sC\'cral tla}ll. TO C O M P LE T[

Rcmo\'c the ballall3 crc ilu frorn the fr<:tzcr. Un\ll r3J1 ,

Inm Ihe end8. and cut cach ol1e uUO s/.-wch sll('l'8. Pla('c 3 .dlrell III 3 row 3cr088 the ccnlc r o f (ach J>latc. I� l l hern lilt at room tcmpl'faturC' (or about 5 IIl1 nUlC8 10 th:!"" IIlighlly. Mcanwhile. warm the chocolate 8<lllCC' ;alld pOllr II

III

3 fitlucelc

bOlllc, Place the whipped cream lil a pastry hag fit led "'lIh a blar ti ll

Pi pe cllocolale sauce arolilltJ lllt' cr� pc 1111(,(,11. Top ('aell fillce of ('r� ll(" wilh a

61110111 SCOOI' of the ballana ICt' cream Pipe a rosettc of '" hipped

crcarn onto each scoop of ICC crcam. C.. ftllsh each rollelle \ll l Ih a ch("rry and lIerve IlII lIlcthattly.

D . . . . " 211

' P I N E A P P L E

C H O P '

Ovt.' U· BO " ,.H l'd !\'f n u l l ' t u c n p p l e w i t h .....·led PnAu'y Cronin n n d " ' h i p p e d CJ'clne Fl'niche

I;' cup panko (Jopo� bread crumtn,

f R I E O PASTRY C R EAM

CARAMEL SAUCE

I cup milk

5eO SoufC:n, poge 3 ' 5) Of' drfed bread

If" cup WOOf

crumbs. flnefy ground In 0 blender and sifted

I/J cup plu, '/2 cup oll·purposo flour

through a Slralner

3 loroo COO yolkl

Conolo oil fOf d..p-f')'lng

Small pinch of ",It

P I N EAPPLE

1/.. lcoipoon vonlllo extract

I ripe pineapple

'Il cup milk

6 toblespoons (3 ounces) unsolted buHer. 01 room temperoture III cup sugor

V2 cup aeme fraiche, whipped

1 vanilla bean, split 2 tobl�poom ( 1 ounce) unM)1ted buUer

f O J( T It E ' A S T A Y C R f A M

Llne :1 tllJ1all loilr pan (6 10 7 1nchc8 by 3

Work with one pineapple half al a time. If you are right- handed. i t

Hugnr. II, cUI ' or the nour. the egg yolkJl. 311t1 83h IOgclhcr in 3 large Jl3UCcpan. Hring 10 .1 hOII, "'hlilking COJUHanily until the mixture

will h e easier to Irim away the pineapple nesh from the righl l o (orm the

thlckell", Continue cooking ror another 2 10 3 minutc:Il, to cook the nour

almost all of the fruil from Ihe right half oflhe pineapple. leaving-only a

compleldy. Add the vanilla exlrncl ::lnd remove (rom the heal.

IImall layerof fruit on the skin. Trim the outcr cdge of the skin to make a

Pourthc: pastry cream inlO 1111' 1 03 ( ,)3 11. Smooth Ihe surface with an

"honcs" Of you arc Idt- h:lnded work from the olher side). CUI away

naJl about 4 Inches widc. wllh a slraight edge. Makc 8 parallcl cuts about 'l, i nchapan in the

o(fllC'l KJll'llUllI1 the p:Ullry creillll shouid he ahout 'lt Inch thick. Cover Ihe

T O C U T T H E " BO N E S"

IHlNlry crCll1JI with plasllc wrap. prclHung It directly ngaiJl81 1he surface: o(

trimmed skin, cultingwith a sharp knife in a down....ard . motion (rom Ihe

Ihe: crenru lo prl'\'clil n skill (rorn (orming. alld refrigerate (or a couple o(

rell1allllng pincapple ncsh to....ard . the ouler edge. Do not use a sawing

hourK. or 1111111 flrlll.

mol ion. as it might tear thc flcsh. TI1CH snap thc skin downward and

CUl thc IHlNtry cream InlO cight 1 1/4 inch rounds. Hcturn the pastry TO C U T T i l l P i tH A P P L [

break off the flrsl "bonc": Ica\'c Ihc second. break the till rd. and so on. You will he lefl with 4 "boncs."

cre'alll io thc n'(rigerator, YOII Khu u ld vhlUnll1.c n rack oflamh or other

TRIM

T H ( " [ Y E"

Thc remaiOlug pineapplc f1esh is thc "cye. " or

menl wht'll trimming fht' plnclIJlJlle to resemhle one. You will he cutllng

"meOlty" portion. ofyour rOlck. Trim away some ofthcskin slill encircling

Iwo "rackK," OIW frill II C:lcll llidc of Ihe ,)inenppit!. En c h rack Will have 4

Ihe (nlll 10 round thc I'Uleapplc 60 II rese::mblc8 the shape of chops.

""Olll'K," The roalill·d "r:u.'k,," arl' l)rl'lIcll tctI whole m lhe lahle. then cut

HCllcat with Ihc sccond picce of Jll lleappic.

11110 0 IlIdlvlelllnl "ch opK. "

TO C O O K TltE " R A C K S "

Cut u(( till' Inp nnd 1I0itOlll o( the IUlle·a,'plc. CUI 8 11111311 grc:cll li P"

Prcheal lhe oven to ·1QO°F.

Scrape the \'anilla secds from Ihe pod and rcscn'c thc !leeds for the

frolll the lOp llllli re'lit'rvr for gnrnilih. Cut tht· JlIlleapple Icnglhwisc 111

car.1rncl saucc:. Mel! Ihe butter 1Il :t hcavy ovcnproof skillci that will hold

hnl( (11111 Illy till' 1I:1lve8 on n cUlling hoard. Akin fllde clown.

the IlHlcapple PICCCS Ill aile: laycr and add Ihe plllcapple. fmil slde down.

CUI n V Khnpc'c1 wC'c!gc' ln c'aeh JlIIIl'npple hal f w remove Ihe core hy CUlling at

2112

remo\'e and discard Ihe core. Repeat wilh the remaining pincapplc half.

Inetu:K. rnc1I8urcd ncro88 1he hOllam) wllh pl:unic wfap. Whisk the milk.

-15 clc'grt" , allgle frolll the outcr eclgc o( the core on one side:

Cook over medium heal for ahout 8 Illlllule:: 8 . or unnl hrowned. rotating the racks 10 brown Ihe frull :tll around the edges. (If the butler starts 10

and 1II0\'ilig clownwnrcl IOwilrcl the center uf the IUlle·rlpple. Lea\'e a thin

hurn at nn)' point. remove the pincapple and replace \\'lIh ncw butte:r.)

I!lyerof pJIIl'fIJlplc' al tl tt· hili 101111 clo 1101 cui all thc: wny 10 the Akin oryou

Turn Ihe pllleappic fmit Bide up. add the \,.1nilla pod. and place the

riKk Kplillingthe 8klll. l\epc:l1 on Ihcoppotlite: lude lo complete: Ihe Valid

skillet III Ihe O\'en. Bake. basting oc�slonally wllit Ihe pan jUices. (or

T h o F , o n c h l o u n d , 't'

Coolo.boolo.

I I t'N'

h. nnulhl'r \\n� \\l' Inllnlt. In cUlr

In 111\'

11H'III,

I n IlIh_

('II,.,.

Iht' ,.ullnult

hul"· ... for II "'I'� Innll t l nll', "'tJ Ilh'

('Olnph·xlt�. (In

1)11"""

,,',. "'t'I'\I' Iht' p l l h'UI.I,II'

of 'I'h'd

IIn"II')' t'I't'II""

10 minutes. Turn the pineapple fnllt sule down and hakC", basting occasIOnally, for 30 flllnute8, Turn the pllteapplc fruit Iilde up and hakC". continUing 10 basIc, (or 1 0 to 15 mmUle8, or Unltl the (nllt

Ii soh

and 3

rich bro" n color. Tran8fer the 11IncapplC" 10 a plate and reducc the O\'en temperature to 350°F. Clean lhc 8kllle(. (nu� plltcapplc an o1lso be prepared 10 tius POlllt several hours ahcad and fllllshed Just before ser\,lIIg.) TO C O M P U T E

For the ('aramd li,'luce, 111 a 8111all hOhl. COl11hlllC" the

resentcd \';1 1111101 seed8 with the bUller and blend ",til. lI('at the 8ugar In the 8klllet o\'er medIUm he3t until It caramt'i11t:8,

tlr III the \311111a

bUller nllxturc. nt'turn the Illneapplt to Ihe Jlan. fnll1 81tie do", 11, halitC" with the ('ararncl s)'nlJl ' ,'lnd return 10 Ihe men for 5 10 1 0 IUll1ult'ii, 10 warm Ihrough, M [ A N W H I L E. COOK T H E

PASTRV C U A M

PI3('r Ihe r(,11131111r1g 11

cup flour, Ihe nulk, and p:Ulko IlI lhree 8111311 ho"lii, 1I(,31 1he 011 111 a deep hC3vy saucepan to 325°F, Coal t'ach rount! of parilry C'rC'3111 "'llh flour, patting off any excess, dIp III 11It' Imll. lurolllg 10 coal, lU1l1 C031 Wllh Ihe panko cnlmbs, nCpt','l1 .... lth Ihc IIII)k ;allli p:mko. Dt'rp Cr) until hro\\ ned on hOlh sttle:a, 1 102 IIlIJlUlc:s III all (lCIIIO\ C 10 paJIt'f 10"'t'1.. 10 dr,111l. To 6e:f\'l', turn the: pllll·apple "racks" fnlll suit' lIll al1,1 prcliflll lll tilr

skillet al Ihe tahle. Hl'lIIo\'c 10 a ('titling hoard :11111 CUI 11110 IlItla\ltlu:t1 "choJls." Plact' :a 8poonful of caranu'l 8alll't' 111 Ilit' ('rl1lt'r of ('al.'h bt'n lug platt', TOI) chop "11h

\\ Ilh ;1 J

round of fnt'd 113..1r) cn'alll C:mubh ra('lI plllC.1pplt'

(IU('I1c1It' (sec page: 27·1) , or bl1l311 o\JI broop. of ('ft'III('

fralchl' and a small grt'en " 1 ' frolll lh(' plllt'apple lOp

rnt' .... 3rrtl

0. " . , 1

183

Vn n i l i u 1l'"Un-HOUH1<:d J1'1"" w i t h \\' l I d rlo\",,'cl' J l o n c�'-Vll n J l l n Icc C,'coln

10 10,go egO yolks

4 vanilla beans, s�it and cut Into 2·Inc.h pieces

'12 cup wildflower honey

3 tablespoons { l lh ounces} unsolted bul1er

2 w", mllk

ROAST£O FIGS

I lh teaspoons sugar

2 cups ctcom

1 8 ripe fig. (Block Minion, B,own Turl<ey,

H O N E V- VA N I L L A I C E C R E A M

'/" cup ,uoor

Adrio"c green, or 0 combination)

( you like (lg8, lhl8

h� an almost unhc31able comhinalion-hot (roil.

ronrncd hrleny with v3nilla he.InH, and cold ice cream. Simple.

f O R T lt E H O t H V· VA H I L L A I C E C R E A M

I n 3 Hauccp:m, combinelhe

milk. crC:3m. o111t1 2 100hicHI lOOIIII of the sugar and hring lo a simmer, MCtJnwhilc. in it wi"crorolher metal howl, ",'hisk Ihe eggyolkB and the rCIII:linlng 2 tnhlc8poorl8 8ugar unliJ thickened and lightcned In color. Cr:ul,,:!!ly whi"k In one IhireJ o( Ihe warm IIlIlk n1u:lurt 10 temper Ihe cgu),olkJ&. Helurn Ihe lUi"lUre to th' 'HHu:cp:m ami Hllr over medium

1",.1' un l ll IIU' clHiHlrcJ h,IH Ihlckellcd and

eOill"

Ihe hack o( 3 ""ooden

"1'0011 . Pour Ihe elUuard InlO 1'1 ho�'I Iit'1 in :UI ice WOller hath and Hlir In Ilac honey If) cnmhlnc. Lei Ihl' rnixwrc cool 10 roolll lcmperiliure. then "train h 11110 II cOllwlllcr and rdrlgc::ralt· tit le;u" 5 hours, or overnlghl (for the cn::unlclu te"lurr). Fre,'zc Ihe: colc! clIluard III nn Icc · crt'; un 1lJ.1chinc:. Hemovc 10 a covered eonltlirU'r nnel fre'clf! (or sc\'cral hour". or ulllil lltlrclencd. f O M T l t l: R O A S T [ D r i G S

Jlrcheat lilc f)vCn I0 100o l':.

Wn"h :lIlcl 'll)' Ihe figll. Slice of( ilnd dllicnrd the lOP". Make a 8111all Hlil l n tilt' ('('ntcro( the top o( each fig ancl ln8crt a Hcetlon of \'aJlllla hean. Mrll Ihe IlIIlter OVer medlurn hl'ill ill an ovenproof 8klllci lilrge ellough for nil the' (,gK 10 stand ill CHII' layrr. Slir in lhc Hllgar 10 di88oh'c. Stnnd IIU' flK" In the hUller anel rulcJ :my remaining van l ll n hennA 10 the pan. Pint·,: IIII' JIlin In Ihe oven (or 1 0 IllUllI!c'8 10 IWilt the (Ig!!. The fig" CIIII IH' K'·rYc·d WIlrUl ur nl roolll lrlllprrltwrc'. TO C O M H I:T I.

Place n KCOOP or qllendle (tlfe page 271) o( icc cream

11110 ench of Hlx howlH. Arr.1nge 3 of Ihe (Ig" (Klill with tllc \'.1I1i11.1 h"nll")

nrou nc! CilCh 1W00 I '. Drl1dc' Ihe H)'nlp rcm:JlllIng In Ihr JlilJl llrOllntl lhc plnte'H. S'·r'Vc' lrnlllccl lilldy.

2'"

Tho

Franch

L a u n d r y Coo r..t .lOO�

Ve l o n (( ! or B l t t (· I·wwct.'t

hoco l n t c w l l h ChHlIlfnon·Stlcl(

Ice

CI'conl

ClN NAMON.STICK

3 lorgo COgs, scporoled

'17 cup pfus 2 tablespoons oll.purpose flour

MAlUS I QUAIT

IIJ cup plus 1/. cup sugor

'I. (.Up whole·wheat pastry flour

2 cups heavy croom

'I) cup milk

1/. loospoon balOng soda

2 cups mllk

1/. tcospoon ground cinnamon

One 3·lnch cinnamon Slick, spill lenglhwlse

2 loblcspoons oll·purpos.o llour

1/, tcospoon kosher s.olt

V.. cup sugar

PInch of kosher wit

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsolted buHer

10 lorge egg yolks

I gclolln sheet, soaked In cold waler to wflen

3 pocked lablespoons light brown sugar

I ounco billersweel chocololU,

3 tablespoons granulated sugor

Chocolate Souce (poge 280)

1 111 teaspoons honey

Powdered sugar, In 0 shoker

C H O C O L AT E

VELOUTt

'14 cup unsweetened

cocoa

ffnely chopped

ICE

CR EAM

ere;J sedUeli\'C: dilik o( molten ehocollltt. IUIS atop 3 (rown pl3t(orm

Tralls(c:rthc mixture 1 0 a pastry b3gfitted With a large pbin tip. Dh'ide

o( cinnamon Icc cream-for Ihal hOI -cold liurflntie 111 .3 pool o(

Ihe \'c!ouI6 3mong the prc:pare:d molds hy plplllg it into their ccnlcrs and allowing iI to spread and fi ll the molds; the mixlUre should be

chocol:lle Hauee.

3ppro,mn3tdy '/, l Ileh lugh. Co\'erthe vdoutcs alld (rcelt them for sc\'eral r O R T il l e tt O e O l A T (

VELOUT[

Illace 8ix 2- t o 2 112 I Ilch nngmolcis

(sce SourCCli, page 3 1 5) on 3 parchme:nt lined baklng lihcct or lint 81X 4 - oullcc

lIourn · molds or r�mekinli wllh plastiC wr.1p.

the chocolatc mixture:

Iii

cO ll lp le teci . try to t1!nc the JIler!II!lIc and

chocolnte mlxtun'lIo thol they arc rcady : 1I the same lime. Plncc: the egg 'A'llIll'S fllHl l/) e:u» o( thl' sugar In a rIlelal Imxer howl nnd tit'! It

ovt'r a pnn of gt'lltly lil llllnen !!" wnter. WhUtk the mlxturc (or 2 to 3

mllllll(,K. Or U l1 IlI 11 h' hot and (oamy anti the Imgar hnK dhillOl\'Cd.

Tr.1rlfl(cr tht· ho\\ 1 10 tilt' mixer (II led \\ IIh the \\ lusk nltachment and

whip nl medium tlpl'eel (or (limut 5 minutes, or 11l1Ill lht· II1cnUb'1.le 18 cool tn the louch. fluffy. nnd holds 110ft peakK.

Whisk both noun. the haklng soda. Cinnamon.

In a Illu:er (ltted wllh the paddle . beat lOget he r the butter. sug.us. and honey. Add the dry Ingn:clienls and nux until well comblllcd. Place the cookie dough on a Sdflat. (scc Sources. page 3 1 5) . pat it

do....· n sl ight ly. and cO\'trwllh a shcci o( parchmenl paper. Roll ihe dough into a tilin sheet 3J1proxl lnatc ly 1/1f' to II. Inch !hiek. Place the Silpat on a

iJaklllgshecl and place I n Ihe (reeltr (orat lcns1 an hour. oruntiJ (rolcll: Ihe dough can he kept (r07ell (orsc\'cr.11 "ceks. When) ou arc rcady 10 bake Ihe cookies. prdlcat lhc o\'e n to 350°F. Hcmo\'e Ihe slU'ct o( dough (rom Ihe frcelc'r; pull away and discard

MC.1Ilwllllc, plnet· the milk 1 1 1 n IIwdllllll li:lIlCt'pan allcl "l(t the lit CU I'

811gnr. cocoa, flour. find salt Into I t . Wh l flk 10 COm l)l Ilt'. t he li 'Ahllik 111 the

Ihe parchment paper. Place the Sllpat on a baklllg aheel and bake (or 8 to 10 nunutes. or until the cooklcs arc set hut not crisp.

ggyolkK. Place tht· pnn O\('r 1fI1'dllilti hCfll and cook . .... h ISklllg. ull t i l II

Rcmo\'c Iht' pan from Ihe o\'en and. uSlIlg n round c utte r. cut OUI

hns Ihlek{'llt'd to tllc' eOllfli!llcncy uf pt.. lchng. COlllinllt' 10 cook and

rounll8 nhout llz to 'l. Inch largcrthan the chol'olate "c1oUles. YOli will have

whfRk for nil IIdclII iUllnl I

10 2 minuteK.

ur IInlil ll 18

thl('k nnd gloliMY.

ahouI 8 to 10 cookies. (Leave the trllllIII IIlgs on Ihe pan. and e;lI lhcm as a

S(I IICC1C thc' lionked gt'int l1l 8hrcl dry and nclcl It 10 Ilu� chocolate nllxturc',

treat lalcr.) HClUrn Ihe p:1Jl to the 0\'e:1I for 3 to 4 minuteli. or ulltil ihe

whlMklllK 10 comlllnt'. J\CIlIOVC (wlll lhl' Ilt'lit "nel " h Ulk III III" chOflptci

COOkll'ri arc a nch golden IJro"J1: do not allow I he cooklc8 to become too

chocolale ulilil II

286

and salt toge the r.

The mcrinb'1lC lihould he (olded 1 11 10 the chocolate nllXlure: aS 800n till

hours. or unlll completely (rolcn. TI1CY can he (rolen for up to 2 weeks. FOR T H [

IIwheel. Tra llli(t'r llit· choeolntc· mixture to n ho"1.

bra" n. hecatlric they wdl he baked again. Cool the cookies on the pan (or

WhlHk n flpoollful of tilt' IIlt'rinf,'11C into the chocol al C' IIl 1 xltln' 10 I lghtt'n

aholll 1 0 IUlllutefi. Ihell c:trdully remOVe them to all airt ight COlllalllcr.

it. Fold 111 the f('llInlIIi"K IIlenl1b'1.le.

11lcy c.m he storrd for up to a week.

II;

Tho f,onth lound,y Cookbook

F O R THt C I N N AMON S T I CK I C [ C l [ A�

Combmc lile er(,.3Ill.nlll\..

;and cinn3mon 611ck In .. s3ucep3n. bnngto 3 simmer. ('o\'er. 3mi relllO\ e (rom the hC31. Let Inruse (or 30 mmutes. Remove Ihe cmn3mon slick (rom the ('r(,JIIl nHxture ;md :add h:M Ihe sugar. Ileturn 10 ;1 SlInmer. stirnng to dissolve the lIub'1r. Mcan",lule. to a medium bo",l. ",lusk tht' egg ) 01L:1 "'lIh the remaining sugar until they h,l\'e thickened shglllly :md IIghtennl to color. Cradually Yo hl6k 111 one third of the hot IItluld 10 1t'1I111t'r the )01"'" Ileturn the mixture to Ihe 8.1UceJl:U1 and heat, sllrnng COnSIJIIII), Yo Ith 3 wooden spoon. until the cusI3rd t1uckells :and CO:aI& the b3ck of thl" spoon. Pour the custard 11110 .3 bo", l scI over ICC "'3ter :and 811r occasionally unill the custard has cooled. Stram the cooled cust:ud mto" cont3mt:r. co\'er. :lIld rdngcralC' for 31 least 3 few hours. unlll cold. or overnight (for the creJlluest 1exlurr) Freen' the Ice crcam In an Ice crCJIIl l1lac1ullc. Lme " pan "'lIh plastiC wrJp, transfer the ICC crcam 10 the P31l, :md spre3(1 It 1n10 .. :'1. - i nch layer. Cover the Ice cre:ull 3nd place m the frecur for 31 le3st 2 hours, or up to 2 days. When the ICC crcam lS fr01ell. cut It IIItO diSks th31 3rc the I;JlIle IIlt� 38 the chocolate \"c1out�8. neturn to the frec/cr. TO C O M I' L E T [

11rehcal the o\'en to .1000 f'.

Hcmo\c the \e1olltes frolll lhc fre(ncr. I'ush them gentl) frolll thc tOP to release them rrom the nng molds. or rCIllO\(' them (rom the' sournt': molds ;lOti peel off and dllJC3nl ihe plasllc ",rap Celllt'r raeh veloutl' on 3 cookie and plan' on a haklng sheet Plact' 111 1111: mcn :IIHI bake (or 14 minutes. The "doutc:s should look 6et hUI bull tH' liort IIl thC' cenler. To test. Illscrt a II1clal s\...c",er 11110 Ih(' ccnter or 3 \elout� for a ft'''' seconds. then !Ouch II 10 )our hp: U lihouhl (ccl "'arm if thc C('IUrr III stili colli, return the \ j·loutCS lo thr 0\ en DOIl't o\erlJlkCt JU o\('rcoII\.rll Vc\OlUC \� 111 hcglll to ('fad... PIaCt' 3 bpoonrul of chocolatc UUCI! on c3rh Ii('("\ Ing plate'

rnlC'r JII

ICC cn'alll disk II1 thc Ii;lUrt' and l OP '" JIlt 3 COO\.Ie' :1Iul \('Iout<: J)Ubl Iht' top or each dl'8s('rt "'lIh pO\"deret! Ilugar. c("\(' IlIIlIletll:ut'h (Ilflt'"f 3110IIt 3 l1unuteS. the) \,,111 hegm to losc their bhal'c)'

M Io. I '

(> H ' '' ' '' f.o \

0. . . . "

'87

2ea

T h e F , e n c h l o u n d r y Cookbook

0...."

'1&9

f L E S l o w · D n lu.!cJ M C "' J ) "' "�H w t l l l

F LO T TAN T E

Cl'CJllC

A n g l n hw n n d D I U C J'Hwcct C h o c o l i l l o

1/4 CUp powdered sugar

MERINGUES

CR£ME AHGlAISE

5 IOlge eog whit"

1/, vanilla bean, sptit

3 tablespoo ns all·purpose flour

1 cup sugar

I cup milk

5 teaspoons unsweetened cocoa powder

C H O C O L AT E M O U S S E

I Cup heavy Cleam

I large egg while

3 ounces blltcf1wcot choc.o'OIC. finely dlopped

5 10'0< egg yol'"

(u.s

'Il cup sugar

J/.. cup heavy Cloom

1.u r; 1 5

I;' cup meringue (rCMlfved f om obovo)

Block of billersweet chocofole fO( chocolate shavings

CHOCOLATE T U l LES M ... «. I \ .c O O H N

Mint Oil (page 1 66), in 0 squccze bot1le

2 toblespoons ( I ounce) unsoiled butler,

Fleur de sel

01 room temperature

hill f il a claK8Jc.11 French prcpar.1Iion. funhcr cnhancetl and rdlned.

nClien'c lfa cup of the merinb'ue for the mousse. Fill a pasH)' bag

The mcrlngue III very fllltly textured (before it'" cooked it should

fillcd with a large plain tip with the rcmallling merinb'Ue. Pipe the

look exactly like 8JHlving cream) and we put a "urpru�c I OIUtic::

meri nb'Ut: 11110 the cellters of the G molds. allowmg the filling to movc

a chocolate gnnache. To tnke It to the next Icvtl. loft licl .1 "salad" of

outward from the center as you 11Irc to fill them. Smooth Ihe lOpS of thc

lOp. ;md. aK a 8:,laci typlc;,lIy rcclulrc8 some 80rt of

merinb"Ucs:1nd pbce the molds in a deep lJaklngpan. Pour III cnough hot

drefllling. we drlulc mint oil 011 the chocolate and fwlsh it wilh some

waler to come halfway up Ihe sides oflhc cups. I f you arc using foil cups

chocolatc IIIHI\'IIlKIi on

c ryHlol" of nellr de "eI, which cllhnllce the

IWlctlnCIiK.

and they floal lll ihe water. pklCC a baking sheet or pan ovcr Ihem to hold them down.

fOM

T H [ M [ R l t� a U f S

l'rche,11 1Iu::ovento 250oF. Spray ,ux ,I ounce

HOUrn� molll" or foil CIIIHI (OiboUl 3 inchtl1 ....' lde) wllh nonstick flpray. CurnlHnc Ihl' l'gg WllllcR and Rlilpr m a metal miXer howl. Sel the

dish and refrigerale for I hour. orunlll firm.

Place the chocolale In a medium

bowl over II Rnuccpall of Hirllnlenng waU'r :tIHl whisk genii)' IIntil the

F O R T H [ C I1 0 C O l AT E

while8 nrc' warm II lid the liIIgnr IR completely (hssulvcd. HCIIlO\'I' the howl

howl. Hring I/: cup of Ihe cream 10 a Simmer and Jlourovcr the chocolate.

from tllf' hCllt :lIld JlI:lcc it 011 the mixer stand. Ufle the whisk atl:lchlllent

Let git for a minute, then IItir until the chocolate h;: 1 8 melted and the

In IH:at the whlh'" umil lioft

290

Cover the hakingdish wilh foi l .1nd hake for20 minutcs. or unlil lhe mCrlngues are liel but 61111 mOl61. Hemo\'c Ihe' molds from th · baking

pe:lks forrn.

The F r o n e k l o u n d r y Cookbook

mixture 18 RlIlooth. Let cool to rOOll1 tclllJlcralUrc.

Beat thc remaining lIt cup cream to 80ft pC:3k5. Fold Ihe rt8('f'\'CU merinb"llc . and then the ..... hlpped crealll. into the cilocolate 1Il111urC', TO F I L L T H [ M £ R I N G U £ S

Le3\,l llgthe lul:eu ll1('nngU('8Ul the cupl. gently scoop out the center of each to m3l:e 3 rounded C3\'l1y, 11:3\,tIIg a I/:- (0 3ft _ lI1clt .....all of merinb'Ue. (A onc · ounce Ice C(r31ll 6«001) \\orl:g

Sl!:Ilcii m on(' come'r of 'he'

lip'" :,,"1 hohllll� II n"l

nr.�iIll U Iht' SlIpnt,

it scoop f.OlI\(' of Ihe h:ntC"r 01110 Ihe hat'k of nn o((,,("t fl.P31U1:. tuul "Jlf("311 rt'mo\� 10 101' thr o\rr 111 311 ('\("11 b e r O \ l' r the' .1t'1I(,11. I\ull ihe' IIJl31111:.

,UI ' «::1('('811 b:UI("f. 1\('(1('31 10 flll lht'

lip:.! YUII hili I\rcd onl ' (, I\lIh'" fOf

Ih(' (("Clpel ('),Ir.1 b:m('r cJll lu' froll'''.

well for 11118.) Using 3 spoon or pastry hag. fill the C3\1I1('8 \'11th the

1'13CC Ihe fittNI 111':&t Oil " ha\.UI� ;ht't'l luul huk" far It mll1u'r", or

mousse: ),ou will ha\'c some extra mOUSse. Itt·turn Ihe mennbfllu 10 Ihe

UlIlIl lltt' Imlt'l 3(e Kt't 1.('1 IlIr 11111t'. coal to fUom 't'm l'er.I,ure'. Ih['l\

refrageralor 10 d1111 for 3t Icast I hour to SCI, or for up 10 a day.

rtmo\(' tht'1I\ from 111['

f O R T H E C ' ([ M £ A. N G L A. I S [

COO\.It'8 In , n :l1rll�hl conl:lIl1t'f 1111111 rt':ttl,� IU :1.\IIII('l1\hl(' Ihe tiC'6!lC'rt.

inlo

crapc lhc seC"tis frOlll thc \'alllll:t hl:an

a saucepan, add thc pod, mill:, and cream, and bnng 10 :1 tUlII1I\('r,

Turn off the hcat and lei cool to room temper.Hure to II1flls(' the n3\ Oni, Add half the sugar 10 (he nllik nm:lure 3Ull bnng 10 3 SllI1llu:r,

r O R T H I C H O C O l Al l

111)),1 \1111111: :l "mall narrtl\\ �Jl31\11n AlAD

SlUfe tht'

YUII \\ III II('('tl :tboUI 3 IahlrllJltlOll uf

If,on It,,\(, II I:Hl�(' }'hlt'\. (If rhut'nblr. pull Iht.' hladc of a I"r"c cht'fll knlf(' o\('r lltl' lO ll lIflltt' hlur\. of l-h(l('ol"l(' w""nl

Iih3\ l lIg8 for (,3ch lIn",('rl

)OU 31 "\"OUI ,, ·'5 tlt'f\r('t' .CII�I(' 10 trc-"I(' Illln\ IIlKM IIf ('ho('IIII\I(' . ,\dJIIMI tht'

slirring to dissolve the sugar. Me3mdllle, ,dllsk the cgg)olks ;and thr rCII\31111ng stlg:tr 11\ a bo\\ 1

;lIIgl(' of tht' hbclc :u� IIt'C(',"3f'\

If )UU ha\r � 8111:1.II('r 1"1:1'(', ",ir iI

10 hlend. Gradually w h isk In one tlun! of (h(' hot nllik 1I11xturc to t(,III 'C( I the ),olks and then (eturn (he mlxlure 10 Iht, S3t1Cep31l. SlIr Ihe ('Uhl3(tl

\'c�(,lahl(' pt'dl:r 10 )It'd off Ithll\1I1�", If 111(' Iih,l\ tII�" n((' !IIn hrltllc ,,"tl

Wllh a wooden spoon o\er IO\\ heal UIIIII It llucl:cns and coat8 1hr h:tck of

h3rrll '1'01. ":('(' ll lh(' tilt3\ 11I":" In a ("oul plat't'

a woollcn spoon IlII llledl:ucly pour InlO a 110\\1 6('1 11\ un Ice "'ater Lath

TO C O M ' l l T l

and sllr It occaslOl1ally unlll cool.

Ir.Hn Ihe S3uce 3nd rdnge(alt' UII1I1 Prcitc,11 Ihc o\'tIl I0 350° F.

In ;a ho\\ 1. cream Ihe hutleI' a!ld sugar

Im('rI 111t' llIt'n ll�\lt''' tHIIII a papC"( 1I)\\(·I .lIul llll lllllhl

I Ih(,1II ( flit' Hl\\ rl \\111 :th,.orh:tm ('\{'('ltli 111111111 ) Dl p :t :,! , lIwh c\lllt'r III

hOI \'I,llr(, C(,IlI('r II U\('( il llIc'nflh'lu', an" Ctll tlm\ll rrum lilt' til l) In ('\l'U

ready to Sl'f'\'e: It C;1I1 he lIIade a re\\ IIa) 8 :thtad. F O R T H [ C H O C O L AT [ T U l L E S

th(' )l1(,C('li are tuu 11111311, It'l Ih(' dlO('ubt(' \\Jrlll 11 11 \('1) IIIt..:hlh III iI

1£1 the nOllr 31111 <,ocoa

Iht' �Hlt'� l\('pe.11 \\1I1t lht' n'IIl:l1ulII� 11I1'fl llh'lII'1I , poun 1'101111: ( (rlll(' JII�I.llli(, IIIUII r;u h pl,llt

!'bu r .l lIlC'rllIK'It' lIl llU'

toJ.;clhcr. Ileal half Ihe cocoa 1II1�lUre 11110 Ihe 11I1\1('r IIIlxlurt', :llIcl lh" l'gg

('('III('r uf l ht' 1'I:\U(r antl l:l\ J t IIIJLUl,llr 11111(' 1I\f'rlllt' tup �l l Ilt'I'/I'IIIII" Clf

willie. anti then add IIIl' n'llIallllng ('ocoa Jlm.lure,

lilt' 1111111 OIl U\ .. r l1it' lUPiuml S1,H \" 8umr l'hllculatr ,,1101\ IIIK" UTl l'lIl'h lIIalt·, llnlllr Ilir ('lIowlllh' "hal:"),, \'IlIh 1111111 fill, :Ulll llpn ll\.I(' \\ IIh nl'lIr

III out a 110110\\ rOlilld Sll'lIcal \'11th ;1 2 1 , I !It'll diameter TIlt' 10)1 of a plasllc conlallll'r \\ orks \,cll (I)r Ihllt. Placc ,I Sllpal (sl'e Sourcl'It, page 3 1 5) 011 the ('ounler Ill:tcC' Iii ..

IIt· tic, 1

Pen,' Su'udoJ w h h C h CH t U U L C " O I \ I I 1 I \ n <.J Pelll' C h l p H

PEARS

1 cup heo..,.,. 'rcom

B ripe but fl,m ComlGO poors. peoled and cored

1/. vonilla bean, split

I ,.<lpo

1/. Cup PCQr poaching liquid, reserved

Poaching UQuid (POO. 269)

4 to B sheets fila dough 1 112 cup$ Clarified Butter (pogo 1 25), melted

from above

II;z cup sugar

C H f S T ,4 U T C A E A M

Pinch of �r soil

1 recipe Cremo Anglalse (poge 290)

6 OUrlCOi vacuum·pocked unswoolencd chestnuts

PEAR CHIPS

Powdered sugar,

or peeled

rooUod fresh chentnuts

(IC. Not.,

POO. 82)

In 0 shaker

1 Bose pear 1 cup sU9ar 2 CUf» waler

hlH Iff pll611Y chef Stephen Durfee'H iJlIerprctatioll of ;1 traditional

Hemovc from Ihe heat. Transfer about

If. cup orthc syrup t o ;1 rnca8urillg

I llke mQlit i n this dish is Ihe

cupand sct asidc for Ihe chesinul cream. The pears can bc poached up to

cryHlillli1.cd fruit chip. ,1 1t'chnl<l uc I IC;lrIlCd i n Fr,1ncc frolll chef Michel

a day .1hcad; place Ihem. along wilh Ihelr syrup. in a cont.liner and cool

Htrud,·1. One of the elelilents

'f'rnma.

to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate.

'I'ht· "win cOlllpn.wntK of the ,lllil!. the poached pcarfi, Ihe chcslnut en'alll, find the pC'ar chlpB, can all la: prepared a day ahead (Ihe crcam

FOR THE CHESTNUT

C R EAM

Combi nelhe chesinuls and crcam i n a

Hauccpall. Scrape th ' seeds from Ihe vanilla bean into the pan and :Jdd

mUKI he I llIHlc III ndvancc), :111(1 Ihe IitnJllcl8 cau he ils6cmhlecl a few

the [lod. Brlflg Ihe cream 10 a simmer over Jo...... heat and cook the

houri! hefort· fhey :lfl! h:lk('d.

chcstnuts for :Jhout 4 5 minutes. or until fhey arc very soft. HCll10ve Ihc pan from the heat and discard Ihevanilla heau. Pour the

f O R THE PtARS

Slic(' off thc hOIUHJlH of lhe pears tio lhal they will

HIMIII upright. elll off IIII' ncrkg of IIIf' pC:lrH:lt IIU' point ....here .. I h • fruit

miJllllcK. or UIIIIl sl1looth. There may he a fcw bils of cheSlnut that will

bcgl wllU muml. UBl lIg n 2- inch ring mulel o r roullil clil ler, plUth "lr,1 lghf

not he incorporated: they will he removcd later. Scrapc down the sides

du......n (HI III ' (If'ar,. 10 rill oul cylIneJ,·rK. Use an applc corer 10 remoye the

of tile howl and wilh Ihe motor mnning. add the rcsen'cd pear pO:lching

cort'li froltl tlw cylIndc·rs.

Ii'l uui a lit Ill' at a time until the mixture is creamy but still has enough

Plnec till' pC'arB III n HtllICcflnll wllh ('lIoIIgh poacillflg litjllici lO COYer

hody to hold 80me shape. You 1I1:IY not need all the li(pJld. The cream will

Ihelil. Coyer willi II rmrcllllU'11f paJicr lid (scc· (Hlge 190) arul hnng the

he \'ery Koft while H isSliII hOI. hUI it will thicken dramalically il8 il cools.

10 I liz hourH. or

Scrape the chestnut cream through a tamis (sec page 73) set over II

1I11111 111C'rI' iii nn 1'I'liililllnce whctl lht'y nrc pierced "'uh Ihe IIJI of ;l lihilrp

howl. S" a80n with the salt. TI1I6 will lllakc ahout I cup of chestnut crcam.

1I11111d to a Him lller. 1'0(l(·1! IIIC' pt'arH OYc'r 10...... hent for

knife.

292

cllestllulff ;lud cream into the howl of 01 food proccssor. Blend for about 3

(TIlt' tinw will YiI')' cleJll.'llcllllg on III(' rlpclu'l1H of your pears.)

T h o F ' o n c:ll L a u n d r y Coor.. book

Place the cream in a cOlllaincr. co\'cr. :UHf refrigerate overnight,

F O R T H E P E A R C H I P S O n a m:mdohn(!, shc� theun l)cdc:d Uoscpc:;ar lenbrthwise as tlun as possible: the: shccllhould he almoll tr.mSp3fc:nl.

Bring the sugar and �;lIcr 10 a h011 In a medtum I.3UCepall, "tlrrlng to dissolve the sugar. Turn the heat 10 low :,"d. one by one:, tlroJl lht' p('.1r

Uruih the: entl� ,ht'e't �llh ('brlf,,"(1 bUIlt'f ami tiJlClIlUt" h�hll IHlh'3r. Cover �lIh 3 l1irC'Onll ,hecl of fllo. hnrl'h whh

and 'I'nll1.:lt" �lIh _ug;u agil"'. Hr l.NI Ih(' I lro('('"" unut ,,}U h:\\(' u�t"d " IIhcetli of fllo.

slices 11110 the hOI syrup. Cook ulllil lhc:y arc: lr.1115Iuc(,IlI, 3bout 8 10 1 0 mimue8. Turn off Ihe h(:lt :lnd Ict the ptar shcC8 cool an Ihe 'yrup.

of fllo. l...:a) :l

tH'U

c lImlt'f tn'rolll" llat'

Hemovt: the pc:!r slices (rom tht: s rop. (IUlckly hlot the shcel on

paper 10" 'Is to remove any C:XCC:K8 synlp. anti lay Ihcm 011 the hJ"llIg sheet. Dry the pcar dllps III the o\cn for .,boUI 30 III1IlUlrli. To 1('6t. rcmovc a chip (rom the pan anll let cool. It shouitl be Cfllil" i( not. cOn!IIlUC to hake Ihe slices ror a little longer. 1�1 cool. thC'1I hiorr: the cluJls III an airtIght conlalllcr TIu�sc clups ran he lIla(it: a day ahe.ul. ,

You' ll only need 8 for tillS reclpel CIIJO) the: resl ad :1 Muck.

from Ihe poachlngJtqUld. lay them on p�pcr lo,",ds. 31111 C'O\l'rthe:m �lIh a second layer of paper to"c1s, Allo", 10 dr.t�n Ihoroughl). nhollt 30 Inluutes.

d:.nflt'll lJuttt'r, ( J3rtlcul:u1

:U 1"(' Iit'311\ to lIr31 I I \\('Il

Urp('oIl IhlK

prol'cn �l1h tht' r(,IIU\lIllIl� p('ar (' I l1ult'C1i. "1:U'llll� murc' fllo If nect'Ii�1 . 11Ia('(' tht' rotlt'tl lu':\1'ti "(',\I11 I1I1J(' ili)"u illI II hl\llll� "lar('1 nlul

('OHr taghll) \\lIh pla'iIlC �nJl Tilt' 1'(,3'" r311 II" I' r[' l ':m�,1 to IIIIK POIUI anti rdngNJlrd for :. f('" hull ... . (111111 r('.ul , to I IJ"t' n

'·r('hr31 Ihe ()\('fI 10 350oP. Lill" l\ hllllllK IIh('('1 \\ IIh

11)1:11

Pb('(' lilt' I";"Ir ",nllll"l. fit'3111 t1lllc ,10'"'11 011 I hr hnllll� lIhr('t Itlill 1 La"t' for 30 It) ·10 lIIiIlUIt'lI. Uf 1111111 tlar fllo III " rldl �(lllll"l1 hrll\\ II Pour

Meanwhile. Ir:lIlsfcr the po�clllng IlI ulll lo a sallcep;"IlI. hnllg to a l

'IInd"r ,,\ liat' �Irlp . \\r" Pl'lUtt

Iht' fllo arouud II. Unl",h tilt' '"' rJP I'C't1 51nltlrl Otl llil 'hlc" \\ IIh 1IIur('

TO C O M " L L T l

ncmove Ihe: pC;"Ir c)llIu.lt'ni

CUI

I a \ crtlC'3t " fl P of fllo "'inga IIhup llllft'. lr;1\ Ilig l\ '. III('h honler uf falll 10 the Idt of Ih(' II('ar 3S \\dl. 1\011 uJl lht'

Sources. Jlage 315).

) S l M B L E T I H P l AR S T R U D E L S

" n m off 31\) tlrlC.,tl ('(Igt"

hottom rlghl of 111(' fllu lIl.:ad.. . lr:l\'ing :1 1(. mch honlrr 011 lh(' fight.

Preheal the o\·en to 215°F. lllle a hak,ng sheet �lth " Sllpal (st'c

\\!th

Iht" t'!nrlfkll hUt l(,f.

I , rU ll of II", ('rc'lIlr allK!allllc IntO:l Mlur(,/t' hmll("

I�)' :& hal IIrar Iilnlll('1 on tnch 1it'c\IIIK dllih

( llar(' 1"1) 111111111

S l m n1l'r. and reduce UIIIII II IS thlckcnetl 10 a Ii) nil' (0I1SI81«:1I-1 Ilour the:

tl Urllrlln (Ii('r P;"IK(' 27·0. tlr O\JI ..r(luJI'" nf , hl"I'I1\1I1 ( rrlt11I If) Ih.· nKhl

relluecd syrup 1I110:t IHlucc1e bOIlIt' nnd Iil't It :unde: at room 1t'lI1pcralUn'.

of lht' IilnHlrl. UlW I(,.lllillg llK;tIIlPll lhr (jlll"r hl"litlt' " 111'M ('hl)l hl"l�('rll

When)ou arc read) to a8st:mhlt' lhl' t.tnult'ls. II:I\t· tll(, Jloacht:d pcar cylintler8. fllo. cianrll'd hulter. sugar. and a p;"lSU) hnlllh rl'atl)

the

Slack of fllo dough all 3 �ork surface ;"Inti ('mcr �lIh pl3�lIc �CJ I I ::rllli then a damp lo"d 10 ke:ep the h�a\'l'g frolll dl)llIg OUI

:lIi )011

,",or"

HCIlIOvc one sheet of fllo and !,I::ace It "uh a long lillie 10 (rollt of )0\1

lilt' t hClllnUI {'r('311t nllll lhl" .Inlllt'l

' 1 111"1"/(' ,I Ii('rlr" "f ,Iut" uf ('f(olllt'

3l1ghlhie: to thl" Idl of (,J(I I hlnulrl 5' 1 111"'/('01 III l11nll tlul uf ,.r.If "), rIIl' illiu

tIll' (t'lUrr tlf ('oil h tlOI of U 1111" :mKillillie

U ll in

liar tll rlult·l" \\ lila

. I IO\\lirr(,11 MIKolr SrC\t' Ihr rrlH.IIfII!IKrrt'lIlt· :'IIIKIIlIIit' III II ,,:\11(, . 11(11\1 .. ... . i � 8

1 1I "' I U t. �

O u. . "

291

Cl'Cll lll w i t h 1 I 0 1 1 (>3o'('d Mn ...c n l·poIH.' !.t'nlu n S n hu3o'n n - P l n c N u t Tnl'l

Butter ond flour for tho tort pan

)/.. cup sugar

III recipe Plno Nut Cru�t (recipe follows)

Ih cup frnt. lemon lulce

LEMON SABAYON

6 labl�poon, (3 OUflC.C$)

M H O N E Y E D MASC A R P O N E C R EA

1/2 cup heavy Clcom

3 t blespoons moscorponc cheese

co'd un$Olted butter.

I tablespoon honey

cul lnla 6 pleces

2 laroo eoo'. cold 2 1°'00 000 yolks, cold

hill tan i8 hel:!l lu.:rved at room Itmper3IUrt, wilhin 3 (tW hou rI:! o( 388crnhllng. hut I( nc:eclut:uy, it e,'ln he refrigerated and .cr"td cold.

FO R TlH C R U iT

Preheat the oven

to 350oP. Cenerously

butler and

nour ;l; ?· Inch n uted t:m 1"111 wilh 3 removahle hollom and refrigerate it while Ihe oven preheatH. nClIlove the tart plln (rom Ihe rdrigeralOr. URe your fi ngen ips to

Ihe top o( the 8abayon. under Ihe broilcr. Leav i ng Ihe door open. brown lca\'c Ihe ovcn-lids rotaling Ihe t3rt i( nceess3ry (or c\'cn color; do nOl and let it will happen in a (ew seconds. Hernove Ihe Ian (rom Ihe broilcr re or cold. sit 3t lea8t I hour be(ore sen·ing. Sen'c at room temperatu SCI over icc. 1>0wi a In EAM R C H t O P R A C S A M T H E tt O U ( Y [ D fOR

aud wh ip the crc:un until il is frothy. Add Ihe J1la6Carpone and honey and conlinue to whisk (or aboul 2 minules. or unl il l hc crealll is thick

preKll t he chillcil dough I·vc: nly over the hollom and up Ihe. sidcs o( the

creamy. Keep refrigerat ed ulltil 6e rvi ng.

pa ll . Trim 0((IIny exccII8 clough.

TO CO M PL £ T [

U:lkc Ihe erlllll (or 10 to 15 minutes. Ihen rotate the 8hell 3nd

Sen'e Ihe IIllccs o( the lart w i t h Ihe lIlasearponc crcam

on the Side. "' " U S 8 s r l V I N G S

comilllll' baki ng ror ilnother 1 0 10 15 minUleli. or uillil lhc shell is golden hrown. UeIIlO\'c the IIllell (rolll tile Mell and let it cool while you make Ihe filling. There nllly III' HOllie eraeks III Ihc Hhelh t hey will nOI a((eet lhe lart. r O M TlH L t M O I4 S A U A Y O , j

PINE

N U T CRUST

nrlngnhout I 'h inchcd o(water t0 3 hoil

in a pOl l ha l 1M Hli�hlly Hlllnllt.·r IlllIn lhc tlHllI1etero( Ihe mix lIIg ho.....1 you

2 cu� ( 1 0 ounces) pine nuls

will he liKi ng (or the lI:\haYOII. �t('anwlilic. in a large mttal howl . ..... hi"k the

'IJ cup sugar

eggK, yolkM.llllti Imgar (or :thollt I mllllll('. orulltil tile

3 cups a1l·purpo$O flour

mililUre III IImoolh.

16 tablespoons (8 ounces) unsolted butler. ot room temperoture

1 lorge C99 I leaspoon von1110 extroct

Sel thc bowl over the pOI allcl, uKlllga Irtrge whlllk . .....IIiJl l he mixturc while you lurn the howl. ror C�\'cn lu,:ttlllg. Mler II I JUI 2 m lllu les, when the eggH un' (Immy lind l la\'e thickclled. atlel Or": tllin) or lhe lemoll juice.

Since Ihe recipe uses only onc egg. it would he diHicult to cui down. bUI

Continuc 10 whiHk vigornllKly a n, 1 when ll,c lIIixturc· thlckelili agaill, acid

Ihe clilra dough call be fro7.cn (or (uture usc.

!l nuther nile Ihlrel n( the lemon juic4·. Whillk IIlit iI li te mixture' thickelUl ngnill. t h en adel tlw rC' lIIai ll i ng ICIIIIIII juice. COIIIIIIUC whillking

Rugar and nour OInd co nt inue 10 pulse u llli i the mils are fi nely grou nd .

color. nrul thl' whlHk Ica ell it Ira l l ill I he IWllom o( Ihe ho....·!. . The 10lal

Place the mixture 111 3 m ix i ng howl (I he dough can he mixcd by Irand or

cooking lillie Rhoulcl he approxllllnicly 8 10 1 0 I1IlllInes.

III a mixer fitted with the paddle),

!c.;t\,(, tilt· howl O\" 'r !lu' wiltcr aR you acid the

Add Ihe soflened hulter. Ihe egg. and ".milla extract mld mix 10

hilih'" WhlKk ill the hUIIC'r n pl cce nl ;t lime. TIle HahaYOII lIIay loosen

incorporate :\lI lhe IIlgredienl8. Divide the dough into three pans. Wrap

KII�hlly. IIUI it ydll lhic'kl'1I alill MC'I all It conlR. Pour Ihe warm Hahayoll

each piece III pla slic

illiO Ihe lorl sl,c'll ond plnel' tlle II:In 011" hakIIlHRI.ect.

U811lg. The dough can he (rmcn (or (ut u re U 8e .

Turn off Iht· heal 11111

Prehcal thc hroiler. While I he HAhayon iRIUill ...."'III. . place the lart

294

Place the pine nut8 111 a (ood processor and pulse a (ew timeR. Add the

vigo roulily. Rtlll llll'lIillK the howl. ulilil ihe mixture i " th lcke ned. l ight In

Tho F l I n c h L a u n d , y Cookbook

Wr.1)l

and refrigerate (or at lc36t 1 0 minuleR before

'1'11 110 .

I,. n i l t'!I'Io(1I1I1 cI,'",,,,,,.,, Illnt

I " \'t' .·�, " " "Y, ('nn h,' IInIH' IIhl'lUI

tlr I I nll', IInll In",lt'H nh","liHt'ly

t'SCjtllH lIt"

'I 'l l "

1t.'llIon "nhnynn I ...

II lUI I l Iu' n It" noll

('11,'<1: lilt' ,llfr" I','n('"

I" �'Oll ('uol( tht, C'Io(I:" 1)\'" "

n n t l l �Oll cI('\,t'lu p IhlhW

lIut ""nh'"

111,,(,

hllo( II'nlh.

nnd I'IhhuIIH. 111t'1i mid lilt' hUlI(ol', whldt

It'IlI I H'I'UIII I'I', 'I'll(' IIOllt'.\' II. lilt.

IIIII"('III'PIIII(' ('I'I'lInl Jlt'I'rt'('I I�' hullll"'(''''

t i lt' 1t'1I1011 In I h "

IUI'I, n rlll\'III'

('(lIHhlllllllo" I cllel,,' 1 Itll\'t' 10 Inol( I U I�

rUI'I I II'"

rill' I h l l l l " " U I . or hu' I t'l l,

0. . . ."

29,

" C A N D I E D

C " (' 1 l 1(O d e F'n,'hu."

Wllh

A P P L E "

PUJlch('d A p p l< !H n n d Icc C.'CHlll

P O AC H E D A P P L E S

CIN NAMON TWIST COOKIES

'I. cup sugar

5 loroo Golden Dc:llclous oPpiCi

11, cup moscorponc

A cup. Poochlng Uquld (pooo

269)

ounces Puff Powy (rcdpc follows)

2 tablespoons (I ounce) unsolted butter,

I lorge eng. beatCfl for egO glOlC

I clnnomon 'tick

at room temperature

C'nnamon sugar. 3 tablespoons sugar

"' C A U D I E O A P P L E "

ICE CREAM

mixed with 1/4 tcospoon ground cinnamon

4 cup� opplc Juleo (from about 8 Golden Delicious apples; or storc-bouohl)

CREME DE

'I. cup milk

If.. cup oll·purpo� flour

FARINE

1 cup panko (Japanese brcod crumbs; see

3'h OJps water

2 cups milk

liz cinnamon stick

2 cups hco'-')' creom

I stor OOliC

finely ground In a blender and sifted through

3/.. Cup sugar

2 aUspice berries

a medlum.mesh sIeve

Sources, page 3 1 5) or dried brcod crumbs,

1/4 vanilla bean, spilt

'11 teaspoon soh

10 loroo L�O yolks

1/) cup uncooked forlno. such as Crcom of Whcot

About 3 cups conol0 oil, for deep·frying

( I O·mlnuTe cooking)

IUUry chdSh'phcJI Durre(' Crt·:ltCtl tI1l8 "Cream orWhca(' dish nrlcr

container a n d refrigeratc (or at least 3 hours. or up to several days.

nOI !t'lng Ihnt HOUle Cn':IIH of Wheat Ihal he ' d cooked for his rour�

F O R T H E ·C A N D I E D A P P L E

y" itr ulll "on firmed uI' III Ihe flan Inlo a pc'rft-'CI dilik. anc.] Iw Ihoughl It

I C E C R E AM

BOll the apple juice i n a

saucepan. skimming aB necessary. until it is reduccd 10 ahoul I cup,

would IIHl h a JU'rfc('1 haKe fnr:1 delUiCrl. Thhi III a terrific tlC8licJ1 becau8e

When Ihe liquid is reduced to the propcr COllsislcncy. you will sec small

iet' cream, and you've got

hubbies hreaking across the entire surface. nemovc from the heat and

you 've gut II

liIt· lu)! CrNun ofWllt':iI :11111

Ihe cold

vurlt'IY of It'xlUrtH, Ihe CriSPY eXlf'nor

luxurloliK. C'rcnlllY

iel'

or Ihe Cream of Wheal

disk, Ihe

crt'am, ancl tlw crunchy cookie". (1IlIflhcd with a

KaIH'C o( III(' !'I'dul'ed ilJlJllc poaching l "l uul.

let cool while you make the cuslnrd. Combine the milk. cream. nnd half the sUH3r i n ;a Inrgc saucepan. scrape the seeds from the \'anill:1 lIean i n the pan. and add the pod. Bring t o a hail, slirring t o dlBsolve the sugar.

CUl lw,, )/, lnch nngs(rom thc ccllIcro(

Mcan ...... lllle, III a howl. whisk the yolks wilh the relllnilllng sugar

cnc!h Ilflph' (YUII will hn\'c ')1\1' (·xlra). Iklll"vc the apple corCH wilh an

until the mixture tlllckens and lightens i n color. While whisking thc

'OR T lt ( P O AC It [ O A P P L E S

lippi"

('fIrl'f u!'Hrnnll cHIIt'r. CUI ('neh III Ice ItHO :111 c'vt'n round with a 21/t

tcmper them. HelUrn the ITllxturc 10 the s:lUcepan :tntl cook Over 10.....

COYI'r IIII' nppll'K wilh it parchlllenl llCl (tiec pitRe 1 ')0). hnllRto JIII U IIIHler

hcn! ' Rlirnng cOrHitantly With n woodell spoon. until the cuslnrd has

tI HllIlIlIC'f oV('r 10 .... liN". i'lIl1l l 'o:ICh I ht' apple rings (or 25 10 :15 I11l11l1tC'H.

thickened and coal8 1he hack of Ihe spoon,

OJ' utllli Ihc·y tire 1I'llIler alit! Ir:ltlHluC'CIII. Ht'1II0\'1' the apple nllHK ilml

Pour the custard through a chinois (sec page 73) inlO a metal howl

dr:allI llH'1Il on pllfll'r I(lWclK. TI ll' flngH c;cn III' pO:lcllc:d .1 clay n lll..'ll(l and

"Cl i n a n Irc waler hath. Acid the reduced apple Juice nnd cool. stirring

fI, rrlgc·rtlll'd 11111 cU\'t' n'" plnHIU·c'Olllnllwr.

occaHlon:ally. When the cuslard has coolcd. it can he rcfrigeralcd over

Add IIII' C I IIIHlJIIOI1 Kllrk tn thc' poneiling I U l uid ancl Sllllllli'r 10 n·cluel: Ihe 1It(IIHI to nhollt l ilt ('UJlK, Siram tile' "Ynll> IIllo :1 covered

296

yolks, gradually pour one third of the hot crcam mixture II\to the yolks to

hwh ('Ullc'r. 1'1:ll'C' till' rlJlR" III n K:luef!p:11I aflll :11111 Ihe poa('lulIK l"luld,

T h o frondl LO\.lfl d , v

C o o , lI o o ,

IIIgl1l hefore frcc1.lIlg ( ....hich . will result in thc crcamieSI lexturc) or frOlcn I JIlIllCdialcly,

Freez.e the icc cream to an l('t-Cf(,3111 m.:lclul1(, . tllt�n transfer It to 3 n

PIIlct' the' null. nour. and cnllnhl lll lllrcC' I'\t'I.3f,"(' 110\\11'\ I INl lhC'

nlt� IC(" ('rt'JIU IS

011 to 350ol� 111 :1 1'31l for dee l' fl')ln}; \\ Ilil a 2' . IUch nlUer, cut mH ')

airtight cont:uncr a n d place 11 111 t h e frec7cr to hudt'n

best eaten watlull a day hUI can he made sc\'ual dJ)s 3hc3d F O R TIn, C I t� ' h M O N T W I S T C O O K I [ S

011 a hghtl)' Oourcd aUffaCt',

roll tht puff pastry IIlIO a square 3pproxlI1I31c1y

G ITlrhC8 hy G IItcltt's

Llghlt) hnlsh the bottom h:M of the dough "'tlh tlic cgg gl:l'I.t' and SI)rinkle II ..... Ith the clIlnarnon sugar, FohJ Ihe 10 ) half of the dough O\'Cf 1 and roll the dough Into a rectangle ahout 10 mchefi hy 8 111(')1(,8 and I I. inch tluck, Place Ihe dOllgh on .. parchment !tned bakmgsitc-e1 311d c11111 for ahout an houf, or unUl l1 IS VClY firm, Prehcat the oven 10 375°F'. Stack 1\\0 haklng sitt'tts and line tht 10 1' onc wllh a P ICCC of p3rchmcm (1\\0 Ilans stacked togc-thc-r \\ III retiult 111

found!' from tltt" rlullC'd (:ml1n I lrt'tIKe' ('3('h tla"l h\ tllt' nour. pn.UHlt; off an ('x('('�s, dip 11110 the IIllll. 3tHi C031 II1 lh(' ('nunh.

rn I Itt" ('.;1kC'8. 3 1lt

a hlllC', for 2 10 3 1I\1I1UIU, Of \111111 �oldC'n ho.\\ I1, tumlnK thc-m UHr h3l(\\:I) throuKh tilt' COOt... l Ilg Tr:anlif("r IhC' ('ookt"u f.trlll:t IU pn.l'C'r IOhd" 10 liraln Ik ('t'n:"" th31 tlit' 011 rt'�0l1ll" the' proprr Ir mpefotlUTt" ht'furC' ;llltlIllK the nt"\1 h:u('h SpOOIl IiOIllt'

nip 11110 tlar ernlt"r of (":arh M('n IIIK I'I:uC' TUI) t"ott'll

pool of .)nl l) \\llh a hOI rartll3 (.. . t...t' . all �pplC' rinK, :uul :l 111It'orll(" (ltt't" pa�t' 214). or ,,('oop, of applr Icr trNIII l A"'lUl a ('onlle "�,Ulllit rOlrh dt'''Ilt"rt :UllI grrH' 1IIIIIIctilalrl).

morc even heat when bakmg). Cut Ihc dough crOSSWlbC Into II. IIlrh stnps, Slartlllg 111 the cenlCf of each Strip and worklllg to"ard the ends, t\\IIH tht" (Iough In 0ppolille d l recllons 10 form spifal- shaped cooklCii. Pl.:ace Ihe cookies on Ihe

P U f f

PASTay

doubled bakang IihcCli:I ;:and press Ihe endi:l do"" nat agalrlli! Iht' parchment so Ihe will hold thelr i:lh3!lc ;:antI 1101 UIl\\IIlt! ati the) hakeBake for20 t030 Ulllllileli. or ulltll lhccooklcsare goldl'n hro\\ n aml CriSp, Cooi slaghlly, then remove from the )Ian and l'UI off the nallened ('lu18, They can he lilored III an alfllghl contalller for a couple or da)8 F O R T ill C R E M E DE F A. R I N [

lllll' a ? Uleh bllunre haklng 1'3n \\1111

I (UP waler

O(TIUMP[

211.. (UP' ( 1 2 ounce1) oll.pu'po�

1100, 1 (UP ptU\

co'e

I IL'O'I)()On ",hllo

wlOd �1nc."Qor

B [ U R- R A G [

3 loble\pooc'I\ (4 OUncM)

l)QUod (�d un\OlIed bullvt

I I (UP ptU\ 3 loblc\poom ..

flour

plastiC \\ r:tp, Bring the \\atef, ClIlnalllon bliCk, htar aUlbe, :11111 allsplcr 10

I 10blt'\pooc'I

a bOll m a heav), medIUm saucepan, SUIIlIltr for I lI!lnule. IItCII relllO\t'

I tablc:1poon �UOO'

from the htat. Cover and allo\\ the SplCCS 10 stee l' for 5 IIllllUh'i:I

8 loble\poo,u (4 ounce\) cold

\her �h

(2 ounce,) oil IlU,po\e 11ou,

Floor IOf du\IIOQ

un\Ohed bullet, (ul lnto ,nlOli

Strain tht' IHJlud, JIIt'asurc 0111 3 cups, :nul rt'lurn It 10 till: hallcrpall Add the ,,::lit and hrlng 1 0 ::1 hOI I. Wllllik lng colll uolIll) . pour 111 Ihe brlll:t

pI«e\

and cook O\'cr low heat. stlrrlng collhlantty, fori, 10 II I1HnUlt·S, o r ulIlIl ll

the haklng pan Prcss.1 pu.'ce of pl::l!illt' \\r,lp oruo IItt' Mlrran' IC) pn'\t'lIl

, It '" IIII P'JfI,HII It) ;lIlIlI'r(' to thl' "lInll('11 r"IiIIlIK ! I IIif' \\ 1 1( 11 1I11It... I IIK Jlurf palllf) � CHI "ork, tflf' clflu�h \\11I 11('((IIn(' 111m" "Iulillt a .. llat'" Kllltf'1I

" skin froIII rOflllln� ::lIld dull the tn:fOt' tic' r3r1nC furat lt':lhI 3 houn., ur

flC'\f''''''h ,.III d thr IlIIltrr \\.lWIIt Hf'.. IIII� llit'" IluuKh III IIII' n'frlw·r.IIM

up 10 3 !Iii)".

Iwt" " f'1I milan/-( Ih" 1UI"fI!I 11110\\ri th,. Khll"l! tel rt'hl\ .lIlIt Ihl' 1III111'r II)

IS thlck('nl:d. Wlusk III tltl' hug"r. 1Il3bCarponc, ami hUller allli pour 11110

TO COMPtET £

If Ih('y\c bCl'n refrigerated, Imn� Iltt' apple flIIW' tel

room tt' lII lwralUrt'

flrlll

I hr ilion- )1111 lII"kr, liar hr:llt'f II frl'f'/('" \\1·11 .1 1111

lilt ( "' I

lIll(' II rllr IIlll1) IIth,.r dl�It" b

0. " . , 1

1?1

Sirt hoth nourI. thcl2lt. and sugu into a largc

10 inches. Place on a lray and clean the work surface. I f il is warm and

mixing howl. Add Ihe bUller .nd wilh your finge..., rub il inlo Ihe dry

the hUller seems 80ft. refrigerate it for 30 minutes berore continuing. F O R T H E F I R S T D O U B L E T U R N S Place the dough on the work

F O R T H l D [ T R l "" ' [

ingredlcll1s ror several minutel. unlil it is well Incorporated and the and mix with your hand. tlnd a rubbcr spalula jU81 unlil the dough come8

8urf01ce with 01 shan side f01cing you. Press down on the dough with the rolling pin. working from the top to the hallam to sct ils shape. Roll ihe

logelher, It should Ifill he . ,h.ggy m,", r'l lhe dough into.n 8-inell

dough. usingeven pressure. into a rectangle approximatcly 10 inches by

square on a piece or parehmcll1 ptlper. cover wilh a piece or plastic wrap.

20 inchcs. 1t is imponant lo keep the edges of the past I)' straight as you

piccts or bUller tlrc about the size or gravel . Add the Woller and vinegar

and rdrlserate while you make Ihe beurrage.

roll. or you will nol get even folds and the pasll)' will not rise as il should.

FOR

Place the bUller on .. cold surbee. 8ueh as a

As you roll. sprinkle the work surface ..... ith flour as necessary to prevent

fIIarhlc sinh. nnd Jlound II wll h :l rolling pin 10 l1I;jke it mallcable. Fold it

Slicking (use a brush to dust orr excess nour) and 31ways be carerul that

UURRAG[

ovcr ilseM once or Iwlct and pound it again. Sprinkle the nour O\'er the

the butler does not stan to leak oul from the side8. If it does. scal the

hutler nnd usc n plastic dough scraper 10 cut the nour into Ihe butler.

hole and refrigerate the dough for several minutes before continuing.

Then IIIle Ihe htel or your hand 10 knead the mixture for alJOut 30

Fold over both short ends of the dough to meet in the center. then

lu:condK to combine! the bUller should hn\'e the Harne COlIsillle:ncy .18 the:

fold one side over the other to form four layers. Turn the dough 90

d�lrel11pt. Form tht heurragc 1010 a 6· inch 81luilrc. Cicilll lhc work surface and dust It with nour. I.,,'y the d�trempe on thcllurface tlnd mnrk a diamond Hhape ju it. fltanll1gat Ihe centerof each • ide,

OU81 1he dough lighlly with nour, noll oUl lhe edges (Ihe tri.ngles)

of the dough

flO

the points extend ahout 5 inchcs. leaving Ihe centcr

mound llllckcr thtln Iht: eelgc8. I.ay the hcurrnge on the diamond. adjUiulng its size to fit the dough

rdrlgerate it for I hour. FOR THE S E C O N D D O U B L E TUR N S

Place Ihe chilled dough on the

work surface with Ihe fold to the lert and roll and fold two more double turn8 38YOli did before. Wr.,p the dough and refrigerate again for at least 30 minutes.

Repeat the rolling and folding

all ncCtll8ary. FoM the dough napK over the heurr.agc. stretching Ihem and overJnpplng them all nCC�8fl31)' 10 10lally encalJe Ihe hUller anti form

FOR THE FINAL DOUBLE TURNS

n flquare packnge, Seal the edgcs hy pressing lightly with the rolling pin.

U8C. It call be cut into smaller pieces. wrapped well. and kept for a day in

Dust whh nour.

the refrigeralor or frolen for longer storage.

eelllly pre.. lhc pnck.ge lnlo. recl.ngle .pproximnlely 8 inches by

298

degrees to the Jeft. so that the fold is on your left. and roll and fold the pufr pa811)' Ihe same way a sccond lime. Wrap the dough i n plastic and

Tt.. F'on,h L a u n d t y Caakboo"

proce8s Iwo marc times for a total of 8ix turns. The puff pastry is ready to

.... ,, 1(( $ " . O U T 2 P O U N D S D O U G H

D. . . ."

299

ChocoJ u l (' Jlu n d u n t

w I t h C() rtL'L' C .'L·uln n n d

Choco l u t e

D(' l 1 t c i l C H

CHOCOLATE F O N DANT

GANACH E

SABLt

5 '12 ounces blnef1wCCf chocolato, chopped

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

M A lt ' " 8 O O l ( N

1 4 tablespoons ( 7 ounces) unsolted butter.

1 loroo COO, separated

'/.. cup heo'IY crcom

'/.. cup suoor

C H O C O L AT E D E N T E L L E S

at room temperature

1/J cup sugar

7 tobl�poons (3'12 ounces) unsolted buttcr, 1 cup toosted sliced blanched almonds

1 loroo egO yolk

11" cup hco'IY cream

1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder

2V2 cups all.purpose flour

well softoned

2 toblO1poons very hot strong brewed coffee

2 tablespoons milk

2 largo CDO yolks, 01 room temperature

2 tablespoons COto syrup

'I, recipe 0�mo Mglolse (pogo 291)

'I.. cup curronts, soaked In hot water for oboo1 30

'/.. cup sUDor

1 1/2 teaspoons coffee extract

mlnutcs, or until plump, drained, and dr1cd

6 tablespoons (3 ounces) unsolted butler

(sec page 263), or to taste

'/.. cup toosled ,lIced. blanched almonds, finely chopped

h ill ill n heautlful chocolate dClIscrl fC.1turing a chocolate rondant,

.....aler. and he;:!t gently. stirring. ull1i1 mclted and smooth. Keep hot o\'er

which, nil J milk,· It, III like a mOUPIlie only lighter, creamier, more

the hot water.

rcnrH'd.

h'lI ;IIHU Ir'1I1I Htnille Ihan a mOUHII(' ;11111 ..... 111 hreak dnwn if If 'H left

In another metal howl, whisk Ihe cgg white until il hegins 10 hold a

111I1i recipc ;Ire not

shape. then gr.1llually whisk in the sugar. Continue 10 whip until the

0111 ror ton lonK, Although IIII' ll'chuIIllIeH IIKec) i n

dlrflCllh, It 'H Imper.,livc· Ihlll thl' IngrccllcnlK ror the fond:lIlt he at the proper leIllJwralurc'". I( not, Ihe mlxlUrt· Will MC'p;lr:uc and you will not lie ilhll1

III recornhlne it. Dente'lIt" "bee" I n French. refers here 10 the

Inc,. cookic, lrlllvt'd nnll "'slIug o n lOp or l'ach (ondant,

mcri llbruc holds il shape.

01 10 5 min utes,

Place Ihe sortcned hUller in a howl and whisk until it is smoolh and cream),. Place 111(: cream i n a medium bowl and .....hil) il lo sorl pcaks. Add the hOI co(ree 10 Ihe chocolate and stir to combine. (Bolh the

f O R ni t C It O CO L ATt F O N D A H T

Plncc' 6 rlOg llloldK (2 incheswldc

thc hu ..... 1 rronl Ihe heal and ICl the chocolate cool slightly. jusl enough so

Hheel, Al lhc c'ud n(t llC' ,,'eipe.yoll Will ,wed tH lII tc it hlowlorclr 10 rclc:Hit'

th:u when you :lIld I h ' hutler. it will combine \\ ilh rather Ihan mclt into

the rondrtnt rmlll the molds! If YOIl do not h:wc :l hlowtorch. Iinc thl'

Ihe chocolate! the chocolate should still be quite warm.

IIiNlele flf ench nng mold with a Mtnl) or clear aCt'tale (a\'allahlc at nrlitus'

Workrng (puckl),. whisk the eggyolks and then thc hUller into the

tUlJlpllc'K "lorcH) or with IHlrchllwlI1 p:II1I'r 10 ('nahle ),ou to lift of( the flug

chocolalt.'. Wllh a spalula. (oici I n the mCrl ngue and then the heavy

herore Mf·rviI1K.

cream. Add the currilnlS and almonds. 1I11xingjust to combine.

Pillet.' IIII' chucol:l1C 111 a melal 110\\1, liel it ovcr a saucep:m or hot

lOO

coffee and the chocolate must be hal. or the mixture will sclZe.) Rcmove

IIy 2 Incllell hlglll MCI' Sourc('Il, pngc :U5) o n II parchnwnl lined IHlking

T h e F ' o n c h Lound,y Coo�hoo�

Tra ns(er the fondant rl1lxturc 10 a pastry hag (without a tip) and pipe

into thc ring molds. (Piping r.llher tllJn spoolllng the IlIlxture hdl)S prc\'cn t :l I r pockcts III the fondant.) nle mIxture shouhl come to IhC' top

rool oIlKIIII) .

o f thc molds. Refrigerate the fond3nts for 3t l(,3st

did. III h�lf If lh(' roo},.I'" h:mle"n hdon" )ou c:m cut Ih(,nl. fC'lI1m th('1It

of the molds. USing an orfsct spatula. slnooth Ihe tO )s lc\C'1 \'ollh the rims I

-I hounl to fmll. TIlt

fondants can bc prepared 10 thiS POlIll anti rdngcral('d for up to 5 tJ aY8. then staled on the d3Y they \'0 III he sened: or they CJn he refngcr Jt('d jus I 10 firm, gtilled , and then refngeraled for UI) to 5 dJ li. FOR n

G A N AC H E

Put Ihe chocol31C H1 a Sm3lt Lo.... 1. lIe3t the ht'3\

cream to Just undcr a hall and pour 11 O\'er the ('hucobte Let 'Ht for ;1 minute to melt the chocolat '. then stir to cOlllblllt the gJnaehe, Remove the fondants from the rcfnger.lt oranll cO\'crlhe tOJl of (,3ch onc wllh a spoonful of slal,c. srnoOllllng II 10 the run of the mold.

II lihuliltI h�nlcll l l u a (C'\'o ,C'['oml, I\ctnou· titc pllH from th� O\C'1' :\1,,1 le'I Cut out lilt' �1("ntC'l1('" \\ 111t II 2 1"

mclt round ('\1II('f, tilcII rut C'ach

t o tht" ou'n to rt" Ofl('1l Lt-I Ih� clC'lItC'i1t"fi fool. Ihrn ,tore Ihrll\ ln a.n �Irtlghl COIII:U I1('r for up 10 2 ,13-" f O It

UI [

� "' l l

COOKI ( �

111t. n'(,I II«' " III

mlllt" :.1.0111 U "Oft"1l

COOLIC''', Although ntr;a h:.lccl coollt"" ('311 be" frtllt'II , for 11t'lIrr rt·fI,Ultli. freele Ihe ullt'ooLt"1I dou�h anti IIlrll h�L(' \'o h(,, 1 1 ,Irllirttl Thr

rrott"n

tlou�h \\ ,n L.et' 1' for "t"\ ('r31 \'0 (,t"L.s In a mixer hllC'll .... llh Iht" 1':"lllle '''';It'hllle'llt. crf'am tht' hllllH ttllt1 bUhrn r ullul Sl1Iouth I'ttal lht' t'KH \olL 31111 hC'al \\rll. IhC'II III" I n tltt' nour

ncfrtgcralc Ihe fondants for al leolbt I hour hefore licn'tng (see ahme)

unttl comlllllt'ti HCIIIU\(' Iht' tloliloth rrom Ihl:' minf nllli ,Il' "'" II Illtu

F O R T H E C H O C O L AT E O E N T E l L E S

q1l3rtCni Our 3t a t11lIe. pl:I[,(, r3eh portion un ::. lIu');(' I'lrcf' uf linrrliIIlC.'lIt

Pulse Ihe nuts anti cocoa III 3

food processor to break up the nuls. then process unhl the nulS <Ire III sll1:l1l 1HCCe8 ahout the SlIC of filiC gr;1\'cI, Herno\'c to a hO\\I, Place the l1ulk. corn sY"' I), sugar, anti bulter l n a saucepan, Ilnng to a boil. surnng occasionally. and cook UIIIII the mixture: rt"3cill"

temperalure of 220o�',

113 1'rr, ('0\ t'r .... IIh al101ht'r aht't"t, alltl mil IntO Il llllll ,,1,,'c'l . ..hUllt i:lt IlIrlt IhlCl 1 '13C(, Ih(' p3r('hrnt'nt \\ rappC',1 clullhh till " h,IL1nl-t "ht'el :lnll pliU'e 1 1 1 Ihl:' frl:'l'/C'r for:W 11I1IHIII:''' or IU) HI hartil:'n t" 'lIll 'll'It'ly, To 1;3\.:(, tllr Ii3hltli, l'rrhl:'31 lhf' 0\('1\ to J50oF, n" IIlO\(, iI ,.ht't'l of 113111

SlIr the nulS and cocoa 11110 the hot nlilk nllXluTt" SlIr for a fe ....

tiollKh fmlll Ihf' frt't'/t'r, I'f't'l urr Ihe IUp

lihel'l uf Jllrt'lilllt'IH. allli Ulif' II In 11 IIt' :\ h.tLIIIK "h(,('t PI.lrc.- tht" KIH't'1 uf

seconds to comblllc, then rClllo\'c from the heat. I'our h:lif the dt"Jllellt"

1:'00\.:1('1i01l 3 t"lHlIlIg ho3rcl or\'oorL liiu rf"t·f'. l tilllK" 1 writ (1111.'" cut tllr

mixlure onlO a large sheet of parchmt:l1t I,apl'r. cover wllh ;ulOllH'r

tlouKh I 11 to roumllj; (Or, If our rill"; llIuhi" ;:arf' KhJ.;htl) l.lrgf'r tlr ,"mlll'r.

sheet, and roll OUI a8 Ilul1 as l,osslblc. Lift Iht' parchment 8he:('18 01110 n

CIII flUt mUIlIlh Ihr KlutH' IhIIII1f'tl'f 31i tltt' 1II111t1 .. ) PI.ltr till'

baklllg shcet and place ttl the frcclt'r (thc h:lltt!f II1Uflt be: fro/t'll heforf+

I llrh "1'3rt 1)11 thf' haL.IIIH rihrC'I .llul h.. L.r for 1 2 1111111111''', nr 1111111 Kc,l,it'"

you can remove thc tOP sheet of parchment). Hel)eat .... llh the rt"lI1alllll1g

hro.... n nl'IIIt)\C' Ihr C:UQLIt"!i frul1l llif'mrll Mld Irl ('(lUI SIIIT!' tht'lli l n jill

dentcll ' batlef E..1ch 81ICet ofhatler makes 3hoI1l 2·' COOLIN;; thl' CJI1 he

;:alrtl�llI l'OlII.tlllrr fur uJl to 5 fla "

kept I n the frt'Cler for ",c\'cral \\ceks

For smaller h3Iche�. JUlit cui

t'(w\.:Il'Pi 111

"in: Ihe ('frill(' ;:&1I�l:lItl(, .... l1h IhC' wrr,'r " ..lr.1t t alUl (I, frlgt'riilr

through thl' parchmcnt papl'r once the b:lHl'r Iii frO/til and 6tore III

TO C O M l'l l T l

slI1:lIlcr ' luanI1lIC6,

hlo.... wrch arnulld Iht' lIloill JUIlI I U (1, 1" 01..,, 1111.' flllIClllfII arul rrlllu\'c" ,ht'

TO B A K E T H E O [ U T E l L E S

Jlrehcal thc mcn lo 350oF

HClI10vc il sheet of bailer from lilt· frt't'lc'r and pull off alltl dilicani

I'I:ICC' f'ath ((lIlIllIm CHI ;:& b.tIJIt, " II.,L.tr Uflrny nut "

nllg1 eJr, If } fill IHil'll al rt,IIt'. JUlit Ilf, ••ff ItlC' filiI-; 1'1.ll'" a IiIUlCHlful nf rrtllll' JIIKlalM'

lUi

ra{'h "" n III� piatf' 1:& lui 111 1' .... 1I1a Ilir fondant

( I n',,,,

the lOp sht'ci of I'arehfllt,nt pilller, Plaet' the hatter. 111111 on IIit' hOltOlIl

2 PIC't't''' uf thr ( hUrfilatr IlrlllC'lIr� IIIIn thr w I' flf t'Adl .Ir""rrt

sheet of parchment , CHI a !taking slll't't .lI1d h:I\..(' for alillut 12 I1ltnutt'S To

I U KoIrilltlh

U'st for d0I1CIIt.'1'I8, cut off:l slIIall plec(' of I Itt' C'onkll' alul lt,t ('(101 hllhhll) I

... . ,. . , b \I . ... . " r. '

Choc(J l n H' C U JU'H w t l h Hed ))('(-1

Ice

· 1'( ..· n U l u n d '.'o " H I (-'d

\\fn l l l l l i S n u c c

L IUD IEET ICE CREAM

C H O C O L AT ( C A K E S

BEET CHIPS

2 pourl(b ,cd boot', peeled and quartered

8 ounus bittersweet chocolate,

ConoiD 011 fo< deep·f.y;ng

2 cupt hoo� Ct(:.OO1

Flour for dusting

such as Volhrono Equitoriol, chopped

2 Cup' milk

8 tablespoons (4 ounces) unsoiled bu"cr

'I. cup 'ugor

3 10fOo COOs

8 10100 000 yolks

2 to 3 small Kosher soh

2 tcospoons sugar

WA L N U T S Y R U P A N D C A N D I E D

,cd beets, sliced poper.thln

on 0 mandollne (about 60 slices)

1/, cup hco� cream, whipped to soft peaks

WA L N U T S

PowdCfed sugor, I n 0 shaker

2 cup. Poaching Uquld (pooo 269) 8 ounc(K walnut

holvos,

too�tcd and

CItCOSS ,kJns rubbed off

'/2 tcospoon kcnher $01t

hiH dCHHcrl linM liB orlglnH In a c;lkc my llIolher UHcd to make (or me,

Helurn the mixture to the saucep;m and heat. stirring wilh a wooden

Sh I p l i graleci lie '1'1 in ii, \o\'hlch rC8ulrcti

spoon, until the custard ha8 thickened and coats the back of the spoon.

lit

.1 deep. dark color.

Whtn 1 decided 10 crealc: a dcssert uHing beel icc cream, J knew J should

Pour the custard mto a howl 8ct in an icc-waler b;Jlh and lei cool..

Herve I I w!lh tillB kind of ehocolau' 1!00kc. 1\·(" adeled more nnvor anti Icx tur., 1 conlrllHI In the (orm of 10aHIed c;uulicd w..lnlltH.

Str.1lll the cooled cU8tarcl mto a container. cover. and refrigcrate for a few hours, unlll cold. or overnight (for thc crcanllest texture). Slir Ihe reduced heet jUice inlo Ihe clIst"rd and freeze in an ice

r O R Ttlf

R[D U [ ( T 1([ CREAM

I'llt IlIl' I,,·ct8 Ihrough a vegetahle

Juicer, reliervlng the puipi you lihoultl have ohollt 2 cups of JUice. Place the juice In

n K l ucc pnn

nud reel lice

O\'U

ueec'Hllnry. 1n n bOU I I/t ('up. Strnill tile 1If111111 into a contmm:r, c plnce in till' ,,'frlgc'rntor, In

low heal, 8klllUUlIIg jlK er. alltl

flauct.'p:III, cumlulle till' n'Kl'fVct1 ll1'et pulp wllh the cream ami

milk, Bring to a HI 111 Iller. Cover. ilncl n'mo"',' (rom IIU' hcnl (or 30 II1ll1utell, Sirmil tlU' lie l iliel nlld mC'allure out 3 1'U JIK ( tl I8c.1rd any l'xlr:I). Retllrn It 10 llie Kn ucc' polI, mid hal( tile' Kugar ;md hrlng In a 1Il11ll11er, fillrnng 10 CIiIiHOlv(! the lIug:ar.

the rree/.er for "I least 2 hours. or up to 2 days ..

fO"

TtH

WA L N U T

SYRU P

pon hing liquid 10 :1 hoil

AND

CANDIED

WALNUTS

Dring the

a medium saucepan and itdd the walnut8.

Lower Ihe heat alld simmer until the s)'nlp is reduccd to 2J3 cup. Preheat them'cn to 250°F. LlIlea bilkingsheet wllh parchment paper, Stralll Ihe walnut symp into a container. cover, and refrigerate Spread the ""., lnIl18 on the baklllg slieet and sprinkle with the salt. Toast in the o\'(.·n ror "hOlil 30 minutes, To tcst. remove a walnUI .'tIld lei cool II should he cninchYl If not. contlJlue baking the walnuts for a !title

MC·ill1whlll'. l n n howl. whlKk Ihl' t'�yolkB \\lIh Ihe remllllllJlg sugar

longer. I�I cool on Ihe haklng sheet. You Will need 20 ""alnuls (or IllIs

hm'c thrckc'nccl "tlglllly nnd hghll'll l cI III color. Cr:ulllnlly

desliert; extra JlulK can be kept In an airtight container ,II room

unlll they

whiHk ohollt one Ihlret of Ihe hOI Iiqlllll llllO IIII' yolkH to temper IhclII,

J02

cre.lIn m"chillc. Hemove thc icc cream to a covercd container :lIld 8tore

T h e r ' tl n c h L a u n d r y C a o � lJ o o �

lCflIper.1ture. or an a plaslic hilg in the freeler.

F O R T H E C H O C O L AT E C A K E S

Prehcat thco H:n t0 350o .... Spny ten nonstick S U':l}. I Mel t the chocolate with the bUll er in 3 ho\\1 Set O\cr :1 pOi or hot waler. SlIr 10 com bine . remo\'C the 1>0\\1 rrOIl1 the hnt . and 1('1 Ih(' mixt ure cool to room temperatu re, (Keep the \\'ate r hal O\er low heal.) Whisk the eggs with the suga r In a mel:.1 IIHxcr bo\\ 1 O\er Ihe hot wate r unti l the sug3r IS disso)\'ed , Pbce the bo\\1 oll ille miXe r sialid ;lIlt! whip unll l Ihe eggs are cool ;md h:.\·c Inplcd III \'olullle. Fold III the cooled melte d chocol:ue and then the ""Iupped cream, Spoon the batte r (about 2 OUllc es each) 11110 the prcp3red molds. place the mold" In a baking pan. and add hot ""ale( 10 COllie abou t Ollt' third or the \\3y up the Sides of thl' mold s, Ibkc ror 10 mlnutcs, l.:l} 3 piece or alulll lnum fOil loosely o\'er the p3n and COlll muc 10 b:ale Ihe cOIkcs for .11l01h er 15 to 20 nunutcs. or ul1l1l lhe lOp!! are sci but slllI slightly Sill ilY, Helllo\'c the cakes from Ihe ""Oller bollh 3ml let eool al rOOIll lempe r.1turc for 8C\'CrOiI houl'S: do nol rdngc r;lIe.

4 -ounce BOUrne molds or roil cups with

I P S Ileat lhcOl llo 215°F' I n a clet'p heJ\ 'pot. Flour the bee I chips, a few at a li me!. and place thelll In Ihe hOI oil. A" tll(� rr:> . tiny IHlhhlt'8 will form :Jround Ihe 1.It'CIS, InlilC'allllg mOIt'llure III liIe clurs, As soon as Ihe mOiSlu re h:Js evaporated (al " Ilirli '01111, 111(' r1I1J1S 1 will be CflSp), thc cluJis \\ dl lilnk 10 Ihl' bOllom of the 1'01, HC'1II0\C Iht'lII a s t hcy do, tir:Jln on J>tlJlcr to\\c!s, anti spnnllc \\1111 I;alt Ket'l) tht' clull" al roOll1 lemperalUrc unlll serving, F O R T t! [ IJ l [

Spoon some or Ihe halnUI S)rup 01110 l'ach S('f'\Ulg plale, Unrnold Ihl' cJkes :md Cclller olle. uJl&ldr do"" II. III c.'at It 1'0111 of TO

CaMP ET[

the syrup (dip Iht' molus III hal haler to loosen Iht, C'J�r8 If nt'r(, h�;II) , Arrange 2 c;uHiu'd \\.lII1UII; 011 OPPOSltl' Sides of c'3ch c.lle ami plaN' a scoop or ri liellcllc (sec.' page 27·1) of rcd bc.'et lcr err'am 1i('I\\ el.'lI Ih('1II

Stack

il lunall pile of heel chips o\'er the ICC cn'alll and bllflllllt' lht· clIII'S

wllh pQ\\dcred sligar

"' '' ' I ) 1 0 H . ... ".(,)

304

Tho French tounclrďż˝ Cookbook

Beginning

and

ending

After )OU nrl\'C at the Fr('nch uumh)' <lUll hrb'ln to llt"nIJ( lh(' mcnu . .. ",nlt' r i n

", hll r

collarles8 111un and :mkle' !('lIbrth apron \01111 bend 10 orrrr 0\1 "hal loob I Ik(' 11 11\ini:uurt IUlgnr cone \\lIh :t scoop of pmk Itt'

CI"(':UU

and 83). "SJlmon lanarr \\111. nod onion C'rell\C' frntchr in

83\'Ory tuile," Some dlllt"" ",hole IAhlei e\en. ,,;ue for n long lim(." In Ihll 11.41ilion le(' UNm ('Ollt', ghllldng up 10 see Ihn 'one die 18 e:lung II. and ho,"" 111(' 1'ir11 hn\(� ioul "" m up Ihe Inn..11 ('om" .hlt'\\1I.

fl.

nibble :lI the edge of thr lunk orb. ;IIHl look up. nonrollllni1131. "Olt .. 1\II01IIl:'r lin hilt". " Millin," And then 3nolher. capturing II bll of ron(' anci lome of tht Olilon t'r 111(' fDlche l1UIIII('. .. M III Ill. Thi" 18 fr311y goOtl." GeJlulne liurpnllC. Oillen \\111 rt'gl:mJ Ihe COliC, "hru�. lium tl(,C�JlU"I(' h whh

811111e. Hut c\'cryollc 31"'3) IJ IJt0 I'S 10 lool.

All meals PWC('('ti lll \'ariOUS \11 3) IS from thaI 1II011\('lIt, "ml llft('r Iht" 11I('1l1. "0111(' p('ol'l(' \II alllle'r b3ck 10 look at Ih(' lUcht'n anti \11 3lch KdlC'r. fO\O\C'rlng O\('r lUI rxpC'tlllillK ,ntllton, {,1l11t�11 the pallll, DUring "en'ICC', \o\hen you litanti lll tltt' IJrolul l-.IICilt'1i rntr)'\II 1l '. K('I\('r \II on'l I)lt IIIl1eh nll(,l1llon, he'lI l1lore hktl) b(' sHul mg Ihe Ittlell hnett 011 111(' dOlh hr(ur(' hlTn 1 1 1" 11 Kay. "Onlt'rhlf( fmlr laSllIlb"ll, Ordering 1\110 lasllI1gll ;lIHI I\II O reh'ulu, uj.;nolotll und C'ruh , ..!atl. one ,mltllun, Ollr IIl'alle)I" one \'('al, Olle I:null,"

'nu� kllrhen HI d('an, coot. alltl hrl�111 111(' 11:&11& art' ol Ullirurlll hOlllht'tl IIlher. The uir

I. l'lltm

31llJ IIUlCI. Ihe hrlg.ule gt1111ng :atrofili the: carpel 1It'lo\ll Ih(, 1f ((,('I , h(,IIIIII1K al rrght ""..:Irll m t'r \\'hllt' cluna 10 COIUIIOICI thill 3£1('r puft'ci dllilt V'fillon lil:aud

Ihe' lillie' illul \11 011..1, A mOlltrr ;uul "HII

\IIJnder 110\0\11 the hr(,C/('\o\J) 3fl('( Iht'lftilnllt'r antl h311 31 111t' ).. 11('ht'II'" t'lIll1I n('(" Tht' )011"10( rnall 18 Krtlllllnt; hlmt. lllii (')('8 \\Hlt" IIr 18 a cool-. hillllldf ott

\\roll ).. 1 10\0\11

i'ralll ' llil'U rrli!;wrUnl

-It's &0 qUlel ," he &3)Ii. 111(' 1I100hn .... llllll lleni. " 11'111 11)",. " \\alrhrnl1kt't'" IIItU I ' ''

M It

0. . . . "

JO�

...·1111·10 , ..... Orll'lI 10 " ,'\ ••" I I I " r U I II" ', '1" "')"'1' \1" ) c l l ' I II'nl,' IIlIi' \ " " ) .. h'"I III',

or C'ltI" Io" , ' Willi'"

\\1' 111" '.11',, 10 11C1c1 II I H , h'

hi' I I r

I H I I II'" l I·u rn.· ... " 'II' J.·'II.· .. I I .'"

> . 1 1 , " . It' " II '.. ' liP"'"

\1I1 I" 'Ie'II, 10 0 \\1' 10" " \1' 1 ''''111 " It II

" u ") h' "'"'( "

,W" " " . , I ' t ' '''') , . , " ,• ."

""' I I ' .. 1'111)11 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 1 '

.I'- ' It.u , •. 11" ' 1 " ._,

0."."

107

' P E A N U T

B U T T E R

A N D

J E L L I E S '

<..

PEANUT 8UTTER TRUFFLES

YUlU J E LLIES

CONCORD GRAPE JELLIES

4 ouncos milk chocoloto, chopped

I cup apple Juice

3 pounds Concord gropes or 2 cups

1 pound ootu(ol peanut butter ($(Onl 2 cups)

I;' cup plus 2 loik1poons yulU Juice

1/4 cup $uoor

1/4 cup plus 2 toblC1poonS water

2 teospoons ko�hcr .o1t

2'h cups plus 3'/2 tablespoons sugor

'12 cup light corn syrup

12 toblc�poons (6 ounces' unsoiled butter,

Ih cup Ugh! corn syrup

2 tablespoons apple pectin powder

01 room temperoture

unswcctened Concord grope juice 2114 cups plus 3'12 tablespoons sugar

(see Sou"." pogo 3 1 5)

2 toblespoons apple pectin powder

Granulated or superfine sugor for dustl"g

(sec SourcC$o, pogo 3 1 5) 1 pound bittersweet or milk chocofOIO

Granulated or superfine sugar for dusting

About VJ cup unsweetened cocoa powder

PEANUT BUTTER TRUFFLES

for ahout 20 nliTlulc8. stirring occasionally, until the chocolatc is at roolll tellll 'er,1ture,

PI:lcc thc chocol:llc in a rncl.1l ho.....J. tict

Line a baklllg sheet with n piece of parchment paper. nClllovc the

il over II lIauccp:ln of hot waler. and hcat gently. lihrrlng. Ulllll mcited

trurnes frorn the refngerator. Ufl them lIJI uncal a time. dip them In the

anti HIIIOOlh, Hcrnovc' frolll the hCilt an,l lt,t cool lU roolll temper:llure,

melted ehocolaH!. aud place on the parchmellt - lined pan to set. Should

F O R TtU T R U H L [ F I L l ! U G

Place' the pe:lllut hut!l'r. Ilt1Wlr. :cnd K.1h 111 :1 food procclifwr :Hltl blend

the 110\\'1 of chocolate become 10oeool :1t any point. return the howl t o the

for :J 111111111"8, Alld the chocolAte Anti prOtl'IIS Ulud well IIlc·I)(Je,1. Scrape

pOI of hal \\aler JUSI 10 soften, When all the trurnes arc dipped and the

clown Ihe Hideli of the I){)\\'I lind Iltld tilt· lIoflClied bUller; pmcess ulllIl

chocolate IS sct, dip Ihem a second time III the remaining chocolate.

comhlned, HClIIlJvc: the t rurne JIIulU rt· to :1 contaIner. cover. nnd

(tefrigernle the dipped InlmCa to haroen the chocolate. TillS will only

rcfrlKcralc' lllltl1 flfln. 'Illl' filling (at lilly SI.IW') C.11l he kt'pt foru l) 10 a week.

tnke a few minutes, hUl they can he refrlgeratcd (or scveral days,

Tu Hhnpc Ihe trurneH. IUIe a 11' 1 00 frt· cream 11('0" 1 ' to IICOf)JI up "allll

CO M P l [T [

Iielllovc Ihc trurneH frolil the refrigeralor and. le:lving

Ihem on the haking shcC:l. 61ft Ihl' cocoa ovc:r lhe top. Shake the pan hnek

2 leltlipOCHHI of IIII' IIllxlUre fur ('ach trurne. roll hlw hall" hetwet'JI the

anc! fonh 10 roll Ihe trurnes il1 1he cocoa, You may not usc all ihe cocoa:

palmli ofynur handli, (Thill WIII III:tk(' aholl1 3 d07l'U Intrneli. lltll lhcy cOIJI

they should ha\'e a light c1wUllIg rather Ih:111 a heavy coating, The Inlme8

Ill' IlHult· Inrgt'r ur IIl11alll'r,) ' 1'111' trurnl'li KhouM 1)(: cllIlIl'd before

CJIl he Kc�'ed IITlmedlalcly or call he rdrlgerilled in n covered container

dlppill!.;1 n�frlKcr:tII' for nt

IC'IIIII I hOllr,

Melt IIII' lIil lc'rllwect CllUcol:tlc' llI il lIIctill howl lict o\'('rn pOI of warm wale'r. Rlirrin!.;lIl1tll HlIlout h, nelllcl\'(' lht, howl frolll lhc heat and lei It flit

308

of the filling :uIIl l 'lace 1111'111 1111 :t parcillllCnt lirlC'd pan. Or. mung :lllOut

T h . r , o n c h L a u n d r y C o o \.. boo \..

for tlevcral dayli, " " U ' I O 014 "ua 3 0 6

M A l( l S A I O U T 3 o o u u T ' U " l l 5

YUlU

J E L L I E S

CONCORD

Yuzu, a le man- lake Japancse citrus (nil I, 18 nOI 3\'31Iable hert' (redh. bUI you can huy it a8 juice 3nd a8 leSI In J3pant'se m:ukct8. We USc 1I 1�C'3USC it' s ul1(an1l1l3r and therefore has an c).otic aPl'cal. ;\lliO. It 'S marc intense than lemon. <lnd you need l es8 o( 11. But )OU can suhstltute lemon juice if )'0\1 wish.

lmc

9- hy 13 inch hakll1g pall \'oitll plastic \'or31' 3ntl ticl U asule. Combine Ihe a pple JUIce. yuw JUice. 'o\:lIcr, 2 1/, CUl'8 of the tlug.n, :md "

t he corn syrup l U a large 83UCCP:1Il. Bnng the Illlxturc 10 a Simmer o\'er rnelhum he.1l, \'olllskll1� 10 dissolve the sugar. USlIlg a fmc mesh sklllllllcr. skim off tht' foam aUlI sedllncnt Ihat rases to the top. Continue 10 Skl ll1 unltl the hqUlCl ls cien,

..boul 1 0 Tll luute S. Keep warm Ovcr 10'0\ heal.

Comhlne Ihe a pple peclln ami the rcmalliing 3 112 l;ah!cspoon tl liugar

III a medium

ho\\1. Add half the hOI hl llnl, 'o\llIsking cOl\lu:lIl1l)' In l

dissol\'c Ihe sugar and pectlll: continue to \\Iusk unlit Ihtrt'

:m�

IU lll ps. Heturn this mixture 10 Ihe sauccJlan.

Bflng

to 3 Sl lIllllcr :lnd cook. \'olllliklllg conbtantl) . (or 5 10

1 0 minuIes. unlil Ihr Jclly has Iluc).,cncd an!1 n:achcll a IClIlper;lhlr(' of 2 1 ()OF. I lIlmedlately pour Ihe Jclly InlO Ihc pr(' 'an-d pan SlIIoolh Into an l even laye r. \Ioorklng '1ulckly. before II lJl'glllS 10 liel Lcl lht" JrJhrli til! :H

room tcmperature for at Icast 1 hour. or Ul lt al COIIIJlIClcl) TO t O M V U T (

SCi,

r(,8e3bhl(' pblltac hlKI Jlullh tlo'o\ 1\ on the 1oo'1"J P('. 10 Iltltle( ll" mit n" IIllich uf Iht' Jut('e :ttl IHltljlhl(' Lei lil(' hrrolP"" ""II JUlre IU"('ll \\ IIh Ihco ,,'un" fur 3hoUI 2 houfl' or IOIl�er "t NOm lellllH'ulUf("

tram IlIr �nl.(' Jlllcr Ih ro u�h II ('hmoll' (,,('(' p:l�(, 7�n, prrtl""'K lin Lltlt' " 9 II) 1 3 Illch ha�ltI� IUUl 'o\ l l h pi ul ic \�f,' 1 ' "lui "rl H llMIII(', Co mIHIlt' Ih(' �(3)1C JUle('. 2 1 , ('ul)tl of Ih(' !ingar. luut tile' corn " nip 1U rI

bfHt' "lllC'('pan Jlbct' Ih� I':m O\er 1Ilt'lhu", hr..1 ;Ulll brln� Ihr 1 It 1 � lurr If) n " Inillwr, \I,}lId.lIl� to ,I",,,ol\r Ihe ,.U�;U \'(lllh :l fllle 11It'lih IIkIllHIlt'r, d. 1111 oCf lht' (oalll aml lirlillllt'1I1 Ihlll ru�f'� 10 Iht' 10 1 '1 COIIIIIIUt' 10 "LIlli Ulilit Ihl' tllltlill Ut dt'3r. :.holll 1 0 1II1 1U1I('5 Kt'(,JI 'o\ .. rlll

III .. IIU'thUIII bO\'o1 J\11tt half lilt' hUI h'l uhl , \\hl"�l11� CUIIMIIHlIh' to dl""o"� lilt'

1I1I�3 r

aUtI I'(,flllil l'l)lIl1 l11l(' III 'o\ h llll;; unlll IhNe' nft' nl)

lump'" H" lurn ll"" lIIu,Iurt' III Iht' li3uct'pan nnll� 111 3 1IIIIIIlIrr allil l'OI)L, 'o\hillLIIIK ('Ulllllnllil , fur

IILLI!\

IIIII1UI('Ii, or 1111111 Ihc Jt'II) h,IIi Ilu('lrll('d ,1111 rr,lchrd a trllll'"r,llUft' u( 2 1 ,)° 1-' 11II1IIt'lliald PUlif Ihe' )e'll 11110 tht' IUt'P:Ur'II I ':l1l U"IIIK ,11\ uHIi(,t 111111 lUI ('\"" b,)t'r. \II u rklllK II'"t LI), lll'fnre H

h" Kllttl Ii) 1It'1 I.."t II 1111 nl roolll lt"IIII."r.llur" fur a t lt' ,uu 1 IlImf, ur uIIIH

TO C O M " l ( T l

tOO

O\e'r 10'0\ hr31 ,

Collllllllt' Ihe 3ppl" Pt'(t lll '0\ 1111 Iht' rr1ll3 111111� 3 1 1 11lhl"�l 'uulI" liiUl-\llr

(,Olllplt'lt'h hcl

.. U A I O u t

\� 111

Iht' fi�ln" \I, Ilh :l 8111111 1:10111(' Mt'l!iUrr oul 2 (,Upli of J"lce'

temperatu re. IU

flO th:u lh(' Julct'

('xtr.lcl "" lIIuch color :11111 nnWf from Ihe "\-.11111 3" 1)0",,1111(',

howl of sugar 10 coal thclII comJllctcl) _ SIO rt' Ihe Jelhl'tI at roo 111 P I (. T U Il I O Otl P A C. l 3 0 7

l(lll ( S

If UIlIII� �rJP(!.' r�II\O\'r Ih(,111 from lhr lHel1\_ :uIII (11i1e(' Ih('m 11\ " tlll):,r

tI)l3Hlia, blllOlllh IlIt' Jrli

CUI thl' JcllaC8 1 1lto I inch sll uarcli ami roll them III a

GRAP[

bO'o\1 IIr tIIll-\olr

C1Il l 1 1" Jt' lIlefi 11110

I IIlI'h

to cnat tllrlll lOlII ltlrlt"i

"1 1 "arr" nlld rnl l lh" 111 111 :1 Swrr Iht' Jrlllr" III rU1 I 1 II

1t'1II 1 ,,'rlHlrt' '"' u t i A t O U 1

1 0 0 / l U l l l.

D."."

lO?

'.' '1 Ie

u ,� 'I' I 1'1 A 'I' Ie

I. 1 I .. " .e ,

( . '1 " ,

D O N

A N D

S A L LY

S C H M I TT

T H E

B I RT H

O F

T H E

F R E N C H

L A U N D RY

h', fitting that Don and Solly conclude this

community. They hod put their lives and soul

0 business, retail and wholesale, and the

book because thoy oro the ultlmote purveyors.

Into this ploce and If It were 10 fall In Keller's

source of numerous products: cider, cider

honds, 0 port of them would die, too.

vlneg or, cider syrup. apple bolsomlc vinegar,

They purvayed

0 (eUDUro"t.

Don Sc:hmlll, as one Yountvllio resldont

The SchmltU, the roslouronl Itself, and all

Juice, and chutneys of apple, apricot, quince,

put II, hod built the town with his own hands,

thoso connected with It seemed directed by on

green tomolO, and persimmon. Don and his

transforming It from a bco,#sookod backwater

unspoken, Intuitive worldvlow thot embraces

son.ln-Iow are working on a selection of hard

Into a thriving municipality and serving for

people, Ihe eorlh, ond what grows on It, thai

ciders. Solly runs a cooking school on the form

many years as 115 mayor. Whon he and Solly, 0

shuns waste and odores IUII:ury.

olong with 0 small bed ond breakfast. All of i t

housowlfo-turnod-chof, look ovor tho French

Over the Moyocomas, along mountainous

under tho nome the Apple Form.

laundry, Iho building was docreplt and

roods through man-covered forest Inlo

unllvoblo, abandoned, but known to all of

Mendocino County, a hundred miles from the

because they sense It will be the ncd Nopo

Yountvillo as Iha Fronch laundry bocauso It

Fronch laundry, 1101 a minuscule lawn called

Valley, and, lusl as they were Instrumental In

hod onco boon, durlno tho 1 9201, a French

Philo and a small applo orchard. When Don

transforming Yountville I n the late slll:tlos from

sloam loundry. Tho Schmit! family would build

and Solly bought Ihe orchard, It was vlr1uolly

a bor-and-troller-home town into a vibrant

II Inlo a ono-sootlno. flxod.monu, handmade

dead, Ihe site of their presont house a

community In Ihe heart of wine country, their

rOllouronl that was a harbinger of what was 10

cardboard shanty for migrant workers, livestock

visionary hope Is that Ihls new spot I n

becomo known o. Californian culslno.

running Ihrough It .

Mendocino called the Anderson Volley-with

I n 1 992. Don and Solly didn't so much soli

312

A N D

Tho orchard Is now two thousand trees

The Schmltts have chosen this place

Its young vlneyords. orchards, and rich

Iho rosiouront os poss li on to Kollor, going 10

strano, bOlh new and onclent, heirloom and

forming land-will become the new Collfornlo

orool lonoths to Inleorolo Kollor Inlo tho

common, 011 oroonlc. Tho apples hove become

destination. -M. R.

The F r e n c h Loundry Cool.. b ool.

S l\ l t �' St'h t n l u ' ", C'I'l\llh ... t·I·Y nlld t\pplt.

J(ut'hl'n w i t h I l ot C ,· ,'.un 81\\l(','

KUCHEN

'14 tc:o\PQOn ko\hff $011

HOT C_lAM SAUCl

6 tablespoons (3 ounccs) un\Olted buncr. 01 room

'14 tco\PQOn frt'\hly orated nu'lntO

2 CUp\ hcovy Cream

tcmperature. plus

bul1Ct' for the baking pon

lIJ. cup sugar 1 112 cups all·purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder

8 tob&ct\poon\ (4

OOnc:C1) un�llod buUar

I cup cronbcfrit-\ Of firm blucl>ef�

Qnnomon WOO' , I ta�poon WOO' mb.ed whh 114 teaspoon OfOUnd cinnamon

his .....38 always 3 fa\'oritcat the origInal French uundry. l l·' simple nOll delicious. The hot cream sauce. cre:nn cooked Wl1h sugar, ('3n

be used .....ith a ynncty of other dcsscns.

FO R T H E K U C H E N

VJ cup ,uoor

3 to 4 Grovemtcln Of Go&den OeUciou\ apple"

1 largc egg

Ih cup mil\( at Ilghl CfC'Om

Prehe3t the o\'cn to 350°F'. nUlter :1 9· lIlch round

cake pan. I n a mixer howl or by hand III a l;nge ho",), bt'a1 thc hutter, tiugar, and egg together until lhc mixture is nuffy anti hghtcncd in texture. In a separate howl. corn!JlIlc the flour, hakmg po",der, salt, ami nutmeg. Add the dry Ingredients and the lIulk altcrn:&td) to Ihe hUller mixture. Do not overheat: InlX jilin Ulllll thc II1grcdu:Ilhi 3re cOmllllle(1. Peel and core the applcs, Slace them nlto 1/. 1I1ch \\l·dgc8. Spoon the batter ITUO the Ilan. Prcs8 thc apple fillcC8, ahoul 1/, Inch

01.3n ami core "ille do",,,. inlo Ihe !.>3Iter. ",orLinK in ;a t',l't'ul"r p"IIt'W 3rourul lhe ouuiIIle t"tlgr' (h�e tht" 6I.oL('" of;a \\ill'('I). Arr.Ul�l" 1110'" of Iht' cranburi(,1 1Il:1 nnK 1Il.liIlIe' 111(' oPI,I('I :lml tiprlnklt" Ihe fl'm:uml('r I'rmlTul the edgcll of Iht" ludtt'll SlmnktC" tht' kuct,(,

\\ till Ih(' ('ml1.lIl1on ju�,'r,

&k(' fur -10 to 50 IIIII\UI('I, or unlll a ('"k(' 1t""ler ur IILrht'r hUIi('I1C"(1 In th(' ccnlerof,hc l"\lchcn C"IIlt'S 0111 rit':ln. Sc:I on a rarl.: 10 cool hrh·n)', or iCI cool 10 room 1e'II1(1t"r;11ure. f O R T H ( "OT CUAM

\AUC l

Comhinellt('('rt'am, tiUKoir. :uulhllltrr

111 3 tnctllUl11 13l1Ct' 1'11ll3ml hnllK l 0 .i 1.011. Heduc(' Ih(' hral (tu rt'llucr till' cil:mcc8 of l('orriutlK or hOIHuK O\C"r) �1Hl lel lhr "311('t" !illUmer for 5 In n milluteli, 10 relluce .llul Ihid.en 'Ii�htl)', St""'(' .ht' hOI ,Unlet' \\lfh th(' lurhC"u. U A f., 1 \ 8 \ l I V I N e'. \

0. . . . , '

Th. "1111, A(l'119, \9\19

31"

The F r e n c h l a u n d r y Cookbook

Sources [ QUIPM(NT TIle cquipm�nt used most oflen for Ihest

Sur

La ToW.

recipes includes: food processor. blender,

101 800-243-9852

KilchcnAid or other hea\')'- duI)' mucro luge

Web lito "III'tII'W wrkJtoble com

slockpot (o\'u 16 quans), hr3\'y sheet pans.

WUUam..5oftoma W'O Equlpn\ef\1

For (r...h lnllO.. . "hur ,nllO. 011. 'mfOr

Wllllams·Sonoma

Juke. hotlJrKol dl mu�'nt', :t.tIll cavum

Sllpa! (flexible silicon-coaled nOJl5lick fabne

'ei. 800·54 1 . 1 262

sold 111 sizes 10 fit commercial baldng sheels),

W� ",Ie www wllUom\-sonoma com

chanois (fine- meshed conical Sll"3l11cr). laml8 (large

0011

It 'Il cssrnll31 to usc lugh (l UJllty cook"'Jrr.

Japanese mantlollne (Iknrincr), plastiC bowl

such 38 Bou rse31 or � Crc=usrl. lAo Crculiet i.

scraper.

null.

a\'Jllable 111 couk"' 3re storcs :uuJ kucil(, Il"' l : rC

scale. installt- read thermometer. dec l} fry

departmentll, For 1l0urguI's lugh- qual lty

thermometer. palette knife and small offsct

French copper, s1311t1('ss tuecl. 31111 nonsliCk:

palette knife. graduated round culters. 1>3811')'

cOOk"'3rt", wfuch IS uscd III IUallY restaurant

b:lgand l ips. and small plast iC squeeze bOllln.

kitchens. conlnell

gnndcr

Sp eCial eq ui p ment

spice

used III speCi fi C

lel 800· 281 .2330, 7 1 8·392·5050

10' 7 1 8.J9 1 . 1 704.

81(�\'e). heat diffuser, juicer.

corree

U...,nI T...II... USA 0100

,.1 2 1 3.933.8202. 10' 2 1 3·933·4235 Web �10 ""'¥oW urbonl com

[.mon

ulbonluw@ool com

For rntlt .... uotl lifl\okC'd ""1Inlnn, Mol & Me Atlontlc Smoked Solmon lel 800-503·3663

10' 2 1 5.297·0391

Bourgeot

reclpcs includes: sllIall blowtorch. num food

lei 800·469·0188

I:or muulmrd duel (Olt' �rn, IUlumh, cl lulil,

processor. Icc-cream maker. mcal gnnder

Web $lIe W'WW bourDcol If

b'llinr:. hrn. \elll'On, '"ltl rahlll! -1I1I1'(' r'"

allachmenl for KuchcnAld or other heavy

E·mod. bouroeot@ool com (reference

8Jtltll(,lh

duty mi xer. pasta m3clune, fluted paslry

The French Loundty Cookbook )

D'Artoinon

101 8OO· 0ARTAGN (800·327.8246),

wheel. scalloped 0\'31 melon bailer or ticoop. parislclUle bailer. Ianltng ncedl e, sugar

97J.34. 0565

I tHiR E O I [ H T S

Icc -cream SCOOll, gnacdll

Most specialty footl Sioru car')' o r can ortler

10' 973·465·1 870

paddle, Juicer. ri ng molds i n 3sson et! shes.

1II0llt Items used I n IheliC= rt'Clpn, Tht:

Web ,lie W'WW dortOQnon com

1 -ounce hCllusphcrc mohis , cornel molds.

fol\o", 111 1) sou rces � III billp .l IrrCII ' 10 )OU

shaker.

o"al

egg cutter.

and trume: shaver.

OIC: HlIlg molds can he purchased from

For "' lld no� t'r hOIlt' . U;myulll vlIlC'gnr. Carnaroh nee, pInk 31111 gra

I'Ialt, neur de

3 varicty of siorcs luncd tn Ihlli secllon or they

sel. 1I1 3rrow he.lIls, doh p :u: kt' tl ;uu:hu\'lrii.

can he made uSing cnns readily awul:lblc III

canelu:.1 Morello chrrrlcli, \;&CIIUII1 packrtl

S1Ore. I\cmo\'c hath the tOJls 3ntl

unsweclened chesi lluis. \ c rJ us, "hll(' I ntmt'

bOllomB of appropriately Blled cans. Illaklllg

011, lrlllon Oil , gelalln bllC�ct8, ",hllc rod. linh.

sure that the edges arc smooth. Wash the cans

nnd apple l'('ctll1.

well before uSing.

Culinary Initltuta of Am.,lco ot Gret'tone

Ihe grocery

All sou rces below ship 10 eustoment. Culinary Instltuto of Amerlco ot Greystone lei 888·424·2433, 10' 877.967·2433

J.B. P,lnco Compony, Inc. lei 800·473·0577, 2 1 2·683·3553

we Equipment

Dean

& Deluco

lei 800·22 1.7714, 2 1 2.226 6800

For hprciill1y lirull llc(' IIIIC'h

AS h(';'I" II of Ilallll

IIt('1\I1I1 Geo,g. Co,nlll. & Sont Prodwc.

,.1 3 1 2·226 1 0 1 5, 10' 3 1 2 226 3016 Panku cntlll ll�, (1"311 rAAIi, rrrlih Iw),hr.UIII.

R;J ri 1(' cll\\f'8. ) 11111 l"lcr. ulIIl lJlnl·k lI('tlall\(' M'('tiS u : r il,,;ub hlr at NiHUI grurr')' Rlflrrli BllCl rnnrkrlli \fr31 tollh�lrli, I )t'rf c'lirrlfl, III�'" hr:ul" ' IIiKIl' (r(' I , ""'t'rlhrr:ul., :ulIl calli (UI Jrr u,,:ulahlr at rillfllr IlIl1rhrr KIwI'''

Ia. 800.78 1 . 4050 Web �lte www deon-dcluco com

S o u " .,.

Jl�

List of recipes CAHAP(S "Cornct$": Solmon Tortore with Sweet Red Onion verne Fro1che 6 While Truffle Ojl-Infused CU�lo,ds with Block Truffle Ragout 1 6 "Bacon and EOO''': Soft Poached Quail Eogs with AppIowood·Smokcd Bacon I B

"'Oysters and Pea,ls": Soboyon of Pearl Toptow with Molpcquo �fcrs and O$C!ro Cavfar 23 Pickled OysIOfl with Eoollsh CucumbC'r "Copellln'" and Dill 24

and Bolsomlc Gloze 9 1 Grainy Mustard Vinalgrclle, and Frisec Lelluce 92 Chesapeake Boy Soft-shell Crab "Sondwlch" 93 Corpoc.clo of YellDWfin Tuna NJ�lse 96 Fricassee of Escargots with a Pur6c of Sweet Corrots, Roosted Shallots, and Herb Salad 98

lobster Consomm6 cn &Mo 32

Poached Moulard Duck Fole Gras au Torchon with Picklt!d Cherries 106

Crcomy MoIne Lobster Oroth 35

Whole Roosted Moulard Duck Fole Gras with Appl� and Block Truffles 1 1 0

Gazpacho 35

Gcwlirztromlncr.Poocht!d Moulord Duck Fole Gras

PUllio of Enoll�h P(''O Soup wllh Whllo Trufflo Ot! and Parmesan Crisps 37 Yukon Gold POIOIO Ollnl 40 Ollnl with OOlloroo dl Muoolno and Conflt of Tomolo 40 Ollnl with ROOSh.>d Sweet Poppers cnd Eggplont Cavlor 4 1 Gruybro Cheese Gouobrcs 48

with GcwlirZ1romlncr Jelly I 1 1 "Tongue In Cheek": Braised Beef Cheeks and Veal Tongue with Baby Leeks and Horseradish Cream 1 1 2 Eric's Stoff Losagno 1 1 6 Stoff Dressing 1 1 7

"Chips: and Dip": Potato Chlln with Truffla orp 48

f I 5 If

Parmlglano·Ragalana Crl�ps wiTh Goot Choose Mousse 49

Bulter·Poached Moine Lobster with Leeks,

Shrimp wUh Avocado SoI$O 50

r lJ l S T

Pommes Moxlm, and a Red Beet Esscnce 125 "Peas and Corrots": Moine Lobster Pancakes with Pea Shoot Salad

COURS[

Salad of Potlle Summer Tomaloes with Vlne·Rlpe Tomato Sorbot 56 Vlno·Rlpq Tomato Sorbet with Tomato Tartore and BasU 011 57 Solod of Globe Mlchokes wllh Gorden Herbs and G01pocho 62 Salad of Haricots Vcrts, Tomoto Tortore, and Chive 011 64 Heirloom Tomoto Tort wllh Nlr;olso Olivo Topcnode, Mhted Field Greens, and Basil Vlnolgrelle 66 Salmi of Dlock Minion Flos with Roo�tcd Sweet Peppers and Shovc:d Fennel 67 Heorls of Polm with Pordo of Morrow Beans and Field Grecns 70 Favo Bcon "onololll wllh Curry Emulsion 80 Sweet Palata "onololll whh Saoo Cream, Drown Duller, and Prosclullo 8 1 Chostnut I\ollololll with Fontlno and Colery Root Purco 82 Whllo Com 1\onololll with Summer Truffles 83

316

Worm Fruitwood·Smokcd Solmon wITh Pototo Gnocchl

Dungeness Crab Solad with Cucumber Jelly,

Cauliflower Panna Colla with Oolugo Covlor 22

"Ungulno" wlln 'Ilhlla Clom Souat

Tasting o f Potatoes with Block Truffles 86 Cotnoroll Rlsono with Shoved White Truffles from Alba 88

L I , . 01 R o c l p o ,

and Glnger·Carrot Emulsion

126

"Maco/onl and Oleesc": BUller-Poocht!d Moine Lobster with Croomy Lobster Broth and Moscorpone·Enriched Orlo 1 32 Five-Spiced Roosted Moine Lobster with Porl·Pooched Rgs and Saut�cd Moulord Duck Fole Gras 1 3 3 Pan·Roosted Moine Jumbo Scallops with Morel Mushrooms and Aspor09us Pu,� 136 Solman "Chops" with Celery and Block Truffles 1 3 7 Cltrus·Marlnated Salmon with a Conli! o f Novel Oranges, Deluga Caviar, and Pea Shool CouUs 140 "Clam Chowder"� Saut&!d Cod with Cod Cokes and Parsley Oil 142 Sauteed Atlantic Halibut with Summer Succotash and Rue-Scented Onion Giole 1 4 4 Block

Sea Doss with Sweet ParsnIps,

and Soffron.Vonlllo Sauce 146

Auowleof Spinach,

Pon·Roeslcd Slrlpcd

Bou wf1h Mkhok.e RoonoIi

Con.u Vccchlu .... ,!h Spked CoffOI Solod and Gokkn RoI\ln P\.Ir� 2042

and BariOOOlc Vinolgr<!11e 152

Ute de Molno ....,Ih �ut and Too\loo COIQ'oll'O'f Seed V1no�,otlo '.3

PocifIc Md wilh Fresh Soybeans, Seamon and Radish Solod, and Soy-Temple Orange Gloze 154 "Ash and Chips"· Rcd Muttet wilh a PoJcffO d'AiI Doux and Garlk ChIp"

P«()flno Temono ....lIh Roo,loo S� � and ArUOUki Coulls

156

Sponed SkolC Wino wIth Btals.ed Rcd Cabbage and Mu�ta,d Souce 1 6 1 "Surf and Turl" Souteed Monkfish Toll

wilh Brals.ed Oxtails, SoI�lIy, and � 162

M [ AT

"Coc\or Solod"

250

J\:mnlglona-Rt'Qglona Cu,tords with Romaine L�ttuco.

Anch<wy o...�ng. and pu,""""n Cri'!" 251

Roqu.:fOf1 TIllie ....,Ith F'ench Bonet Pteo, Relish 256 �a\l d" Breb's .... ·!th Fri� au.. Lordens 251

"SouP and Sand'l'lkh" Grilled Fafnlhou� Chfddo" Eal...,. Girl Too'lOto Con"""mO. and Bu"..· F<i<d Chi", 258

Roulade 01 Pekin Duc k Brcos! wilh Crcomed Swcct Whlto Com ond Morel Mushroom Souce 172 Pan-Roo�!ed Brcost of Squab with Swin Chord,

Sauteed Duck Fole Gras, and Oven.Orled Block Flgs 1 74

Roosted Guinea Fowl en Ctcpmctte de BVOIdI wilh Pon Jus 1 78 "Yabbo Dobbo 00" Rocntcd RIb Steak wIth Golden ChonterellC\, Pomm� Anno, ond Bardelolse Souce 182 "Pot·ou.Feu" Braised Prime Beef Short RIbs with Roo! Vcgetobt� ond Sauteed Bone Morrow 188 Bral� Brcos! 01 Veol with Yellow Corn Polento Cakn, Glozed VcgetoblC\, ond SWC(lt Garlic 192

"CoHee and Dooohnuh" Cal)pUCdr'lO St-nlllr('ddo .... ,Ih Cinnomon·SUOOr Doughnuh 262 Croom 01 OIuebt.." .,. SouP ""'llh Yogurt Chor'oUe-. 26-4

Crcom 01 Walnut Soup 268 Verlus Sotb4l1 w.,h J\:xK1�

J\"OCI� 269

"Solad" du Prlnlemp\ Rhuborb Conht WIth Novel OtangC'l,

Candled FeN'ICI, and Mosc;arpoo<t Sorbet 210 Nl"ClarJnc Solad With Green To,,\OIa Coniliuro and Holt"lout Soboyon 272 SlrQ'Yrobc:rry SOfb4lt Shortcak, with S...... 'elenl-d

Double RIb Lomb Chops With

Cououlel of Summer Bcons and Rcxcmory 197 Bellwether Farm Baby Lomb

D1HUT

Fivc CulS SCl'led with Prov�al Veoctob'es,

Braised ClpoIUnl Onlons, and Thyme 0,1 198 Venison Chop with Pan.Roosted Buncrnut Squash and Brolsed Shollots 199 Saddle of Robbil in Applcwood·Smokcd Bacon

wilh Caramelized Fennel and Fennel 0.1 207 "Uvcr and Onions" Sauleed Coif's UVCI, VIdalia and Red Onion Con"I, Onion Rings, and Vinegar Sauce 210 Rooslcd Sweetbrcods WIth Applcwood-Smokcd Bocon, Brolsed Belgian EndIve, and Block Trufllc Sauce 2 1 2 "Head t o Toc" Pig's Head o nd Pig's Fect 2 1 4 (HUS(

Whipped Brlc d e Meaux en Feurl/cl� w.,h Tellichcrry Pepper and Baby M6chc 236 Ashcd Chcvteaux wl,h Slow-RacJ1ted Yellow and Red Bcets and Red Beet VinolOfcllc 239

Choaurcc wllh Rl"Ci Plum\, Clove-Scented 011, and lola Ros\O 239

Cf�mu rrold\O Sauce 274

StfOwbelfY and Champoone TCflinc 275 "Banana Spilt" Pooc hed.Oonona Ice Croom

WIth WhIte Chocolatc Banana Cr6t� and O\O(olOIO Souce 280

"Pl:ncopph' Chop" Ovvn.Romlcd Maul Piot!O�"tI

WIth Flied Posl,y Creanl and Whlppc-d Cr mu rrakhe 282

VanUIa Deon Roosted nOs W1lh Wlldlto....er Hom'Y Vanllla ICa C room 284 Vclou16 at Bllh!tS""'t'1lt Choc:okllu ....lIh Clnnamof\-Stkk Ico vewn 286

lie FlononlC Slow Oo\..c.od Mcrlngul", ....Ith c,emo AnOlo"o ood e.ller\....cet OwxoiolC 290

Pea, Strudel ....lIh Chc.,\lnul C,eam and Lemon Saboyon J>u\tl Nut 1011 with

J\.'()r Chlf» 292

ItOJ\C\"('(j Moscmpot\tl C u..om 294

"Condled APIlI,," Cronl4j dl} For/neJ .... lIh

Poodwd ApJ"� and leu CU."Om 296

Choc.oIolc Fondant .....Ih CoIf"..., Ct(.'Om ond Chocolale Oenlcllt." 300 Choc:oIolo Co�M ....1 111 Rt!'d 6«" Icc Cr,,'Om ond Toosted Walnut Sauce 302 "Pt.'<Inut Bullt'r and J«:IIII.."\" 308 Solly s<'hmlll', Cral\lx-IfY and "')ClIo

Kud�o willi HD! Crl.."Om Souc" 3 1 3

i n dex POOl numbeu '1'1 Italk. ,.f., to photOOfOphl.

ognololll, 1", 78·79

(MII"ul, with 'anUno orHt ul" y '001 pu,.., 82 10'0 bean, with (U" y .mul,'on, 80 bull." ond !)fo.cllmo, a I

whit. CaUl, with lummer 'f uIU .., 13 Ailwa, ChOln" 68

011, 207

.olt pooched quail 'Ogl wllh oppl_ood. 'moud, 18

onc.hoYy:

_il., tomol".. '."",ee, PO""'lon 'f'tPI, ond, 251 In tHI'rioom lomolo lort wllh HI�ol••

loptltOd., ",Iud fI .14 0" '1'11,

orwt IxUll yIItOIO"II., 66

bull" nut Iql,l(lIh ond b,ol"d .kon o ..,

"bacon and '001" haft poached quart '90'

In gOlpacho, 35 In POlmlglono.Reoglono CUIIO,dl with romoln. 1.lIuce, onchowy dt.nlng, and Porm..on crilPI, 251 peppen and orugulo C<XIIII, 250

10U(', Sollr Schmlll'., 3 1 1 poGch.d I n ".ml d , 10,lnl wllh Ice <f.om and, 296·97 whol. foo.,.d moulo,d duck fol. "'at w',h block 'rulfl.. ond, 1 1 0 oppllonc••• I I ortlchoke bo,lgoul., 2, 61. 6], 1 5 2

I n ptllHOOII.d Ilrf.,.d ban .llh al1lc1lol... ro..loll and IKIrlooul. •lnoIOI.".,

152·53

In .olod 01 Olob. ol1lchohl wllh oord.n h"bl and oo,po(ho, 62 ol'lcllo..... 2 ballooul. ..Inolo,.". and. 151-53 lolod of

Olob., with OOld.n h"bl and

gorpocho. 62 ,.. olio oltlchol... baliooul. oluoulo In

Ch..op.oh 60y 10ft'lh.1t crab "Iond...lell." 93

COUIlI, pICOllno TOlCono .lth looll.d I"'" p.pp", and. 250 In poa(h.d moulOld ducl.. fol. oral all

1 52·53

onion., ond thymc oil, 198, 200

01 mortOW

herbl and go,paeho, 62

01 horlcoll ••111, 10moio lorto,.,

and chl,e all, 64

lummer. doubl. lib lomb ChoPI wllh

10Uce, 274

be.1 cheek•• btol"d, ond ..eol longu. with

block leo bon wllh Iweel pallnlpl,

In .In••rl.,. 10molO lorbel wllh lomalo

baby leel.., and hon"odllh cr.om,

black tl\llllet. 85

bUlft)

In h.ol11 of palm with pu,te of morrow

a,h,d eh." .ou. with Ilow" oo.l.d

polOIO gnoc(hl and, 9 1 bahomlc .In.gor, 181

y.lIow and ltd bte" and ltd bet!

"lKInono Ipill" (pooch.d.boMM Ie. cr.om

..lnoIO""" 239

..lth ...hlt. chocotOI.·bonono crtpel

,Inolo"""

'n blolled breolt 01 ••01 wllh y.ltow corn

bu"tt·pooch.d Moln./obller with

In pon" ooll.d IIIlped bon

with olilchoh 10..1011 and, 1 52-53

b.ur" monle. 1 3 5

I"h,

opplewGod.,moked bacon.

Selolon endl.e, ond. 2 1 2�1 3

and looll.d walnut .ouet. 302-3 po...dc,. 233

b,uno"., 155

beU peppen, o,ecn

with bottorgo dl mugOlne and conlii 01

'n gOlpocho, 35 'n pePP" confelll, 97

(all.. "I'oct. 263

'n roollcd guinea lowl en cr�pineUe do byoldl ...llh pan JUI, 1 78·79 bltnl with eOllplont co..lol and rOOltcd .wttl. 4 1

In looll.d ouln.o 10...1 en cr�plnrtlo de

o ..ocodo lalla. llirlmp ....llh. 50

bacon In P.,oll d. D,lb.. ....llh flhh au. /ordonl, 257 rooll.d ......Ib"od• •'tll blol"d D.lolon .ndl••, blo(k IIulli. 'auce, and oppl....ood.l!lIO••d, 2 1 2w l 3

Ind".

NI�ol... 96

byold; wllh pon jl,ll, 178�79 rooltlno. 250

lOUcel, 220

In ,olod of blocl.. million IIg. wllh Iho••d

IImpl, Ir'up. 271 Ilod•• 220, 222·2] lomolo conill. U

In ,olod 01

IIlp', 209

In 101,l1.cd AllanIte hoUbut with lummel luccolo,h and ,ue.te.nlrd onion glo,e, 144-45 bUnl wllh e9llplonl

o,ll,ho" fa_IoU and ba,looul.

.'n" ,lpl 10moio 101bel, 56-S7

wllh

bon. mallOW _egeloblu and loulhd. 188·90 hlcouh 01 euoIool1 wllh a pl,lrh of .weel cOlloh, ,ooued Iholloll. and hetb lolod. 98-99, 100 SOldelohe loun. lOOlled lib .t.ok with golden chonlerellel. pommu Anno, bottolgo

co,loI and ,ooll.d

Iweel. 4 1 I n eo,pocc!o at rcllowUn luno

.,Inolg""., 152 53

kuchcn with hal cream .Ol,ln, 3 1 3 Bobby ,eol breo", 192

ond. 1 8 2-83

bell peppell, y.lIow

In pon',OOII.d .III.,.d boll with

.. 'n lolod 01 pellt. lummll tomato

globe ol1l,hokel with OOldcn

herb, ond gorpacho. 62

"Gelobl. cull. 20J, 20)

01. 10UP with yoguri ChOlloltu,

264-65

blolted pI/me beel .hort lib, with rool

f.nncl and roolled Iweel, 67

ba,II aU, 166

bll,l.beny(le.'

In 501fy Schmltl', clonberry and opple

,ooll.d pepp.fI. 2S0

t,unlno chlchn. 1 7 1

co,lor. 38, 4 1

cream

I n cotpacclo at rellow"n Il,lno

qUln.II... 274

tomolo, 40 wJlh loolt.d Iweel peppefl and .ggplonl Yuhn oold palata. 40

belt peppefl. red

po..d.ft. 231-33

whole roolled moulOld duck 101. gfOI blanching. 58

clarlfl.d bulltt. 125

mo,lnollno m'OI. 190

10ltlno of paloloe. with, 86-87

btlnl, 10. )9. 1 3 5

chlo,oph�U, 2047

Inllnlno alii. 165·66

b,olled

with opplu and. 1 1 0

bloiling. 186

101. 0'01, 10)·5

loun. foolled ,weCltbl�od, with

pamm.. Moalm, and ltd be.1 chocolol' cohl with ltd beet Ice Cltom

clllping lI,h Ikln. 1 04 7

oll.'n'l,lsed CUIlord.

wllh, I6-17

ell.nce. 125

010rl, 239

blanching. 58

lag<XIl. whll. tluffle

lolmon �chopl" with celelY ond, 137

Iw..1 gortte, 192·93

o,llchol..•• 2, 63. 152

bean. and 1I.ld gfeen., 70-71 pololO chip, with IIullie dip, 48

polenta colu, gloud "gtloblu. and

and chocolot. 10uC.). 280-8 1

ba,lgoul•

ollo ... l.of .plnach. and .olfton·_onlllo .oun, 146-47. 148

1 1 1-13

10110,. and bolll all, 57 .Olm Itull..ood'imol...d lolmon with

In peppet conlelli. 97

au lorc/ron. 103

beurre man" , 10, 74, 1 3 5

l.nn,l. 67

pull po,l,y, 297·98

h.,b. and go,pocho. 62

beuIIOg., 297�98

wllh Iweel.ncd crbmc holche

p"pollng lob,ttt. 1 2 4

In lolod 01 Olob. olllcho", whh gord.n

14().041

block pepper. 180, 1 8 1

and ,.d b..tt and ,.d b••1

.llh mo,.1 mUlhroom, and. 136

no...1 Olongn, pea Ihool coull•• and. Sengh, Ing,ld. I. 122·2). 1)6

lee 01.0 10'0 bean.

.'nolg,."., 239, 240. 140 PUI", pon·roolt.d Moln. jumba ICOUOp.

C hlll l.morlnOled ,olmon ..lth 0 confil 01

WOfnol.. moun.lln •• 42

polchm.nl poper IIdl, 190

OIPO'OOUI

couliflowel panna colla with. 22

looll.d Iw,.1 pe.,.,." and Iho••d

lorc/,on with plcl,l.d ch",I... 106.7

alh.d ell...,.oua ..It II .Iow.roou.d r.lIow

beluga co..loI:

bllcult• • fa, Ilfowbcrry .Olbet .hortco\r.u

,otemary all and cotloulet 01, 196. 197

'n lolod 01 block minion 11111 wllh

ballc IIChnlquu, 10.

ra.-lolI, pon" OOII.d ",iPId ball ..hh

IU((OIOlh and lU" l(cn"d onion gloll, 1 44-45 boby lomb-II,. cull I.,nd with Plow.n�ol "O.loblc•• blolsed dpallinl

,orloll and boriQ<XIl. rinolg"II" bolon "O.lobl. cull. 202, 203

lolad

h.rb. and gotpocho, 62

Bcllwclh., FOlm, 249

bton. ond 1I,ld Ott.nl, 70-71

appl. ptctln, 307

and Clonb."y I.uch,n with hoi 'tlom

.olod 01 globe ol1l(ho"l with gOldcn In loulted Atlonllc hollbul wIth .ummcr

In lolod of globe ol1lchoh. with OOlden

In .,.collno To"ono wltll looll.d .....t

In "peonu, bull., and /.m...• 301.9

Botlo.ln·Robbint. 4

h.ort. 01 palm with JH.'I.'

14, 18. 1 3 5 bollomlc glo,• • 238

byoldi wlth pon jul, 1 78-79

boll. block "0. wllh 1 ....1 ponnlpl, orrowleof

bean,. 65. 196

BoldlKcI'., 1 2 3

In roolt.d gulneo Iowl cn Clip/nell. de lOOlllng, 250

10peMd., and. 66

",Iped. pan" ooII.d wllh ortlchok.

Appl. fOtm, 3 1 2

oppl."

ml.ed H.ld o".nl, NI�oI.. oilY'

1 46-47

prolclulla, 81

.lth appl_ood'lmol...d bacon),

In ortlchok•• bo,lgoul., 63 d,•.,I"", Potmlglono.R.gglono (ullo,d.

bolll "'MIg,.II., h.lrloom tomalo lort wllh

IpiMCh, and ,olhon ..onillo 10Uce.

cr.om, brown bvll." and In ...nl.on chop wllh pon.roou.d 199

alcohol, mGrlnod.. and, 190

318

wllh cOlo""lI,.d f.nn.1 and '.nnel

In 1....1 polola oOnolo!!1 whh 100'

I""'" potato with log. et.om, blown

all"

",ddll of lobblt I n oppl...ood·.moud.

NI�ol... 96 In pepp" conlelll, 97

dl mugglne. 1 0

bltnl with (onllt o f tomato and. 40 bouquel OOln'. 61, 63 In olt/ChOlel bo,looule. 63 In coul1 boullton, 50

in h�artl of palm .lIh �r" 01 morro

�on, aAd 'Itld Qrttn,. 70-71 blain•• 209 brai.ed. blol.ll\Q. 2. 1116

k.1 (h..'" ond wtal '0ft91H .llh baby

I�tlo.. ond honttodlth CllOm {"'GngIH In dlttlo.·,. 1 1 2�13

b,lOu 01 wtol .. ,.h ,.�lIow (om poI�nlo

(010.... Qlo,�d ...tg�lobtn, ond I.ttl QOllk. 191, 192.93

,""Ion., '<414

0110111. laulted monlo.lhh ..lth .abll),. cC�" and, 162-63

prim. betl .hort ,Ib, with '001

w.gtlobln and .aulttd bon. molfO'" {"pol·au·ftu·', 1117. 11I1I�90

rtd cobbag., .polled .Io.ole .. -I"Q .. lIh muuo,d loun and, 1 6 1

••ulled pig', htod with .oun Q,ib1ch•• 10, 2 1 4- 1 S

candled

I.nnel. mubolb conhl .. l lh ��I -.., mol(Olpone .!>tbel. ond. 270-71

"ol""'t., ln chocolo,. (010." ..Ith led b«t

Ie. <'.0", and fOO.ttd ..olnul 'OYC',

..'or. '"/\tOO. In pk\1.d 0'1"'''' .Itk (O ("'OII'h NC�' ·cOCItIW· orod

poG(ktd oppl" and Ie. c't'Om).

296--97, 199 cGnOIo oil, 1 1

B,I. d. Meoul en leu.llelt ..lth Ttllkht",.

£"QU'h ClKumber, 2"

COptll

In corPGCCIo 01 t,IIowHn luno

�pptr and bobr ml(he, 2311

brlCKhe, 2511-59 broth

"eomy lobu." bu"tt.poo(h�d Moln. lob. I., wllh malCo,pone·�nlkhed ana and, 1 3 2

(ltomy Moine lob.lt', 3 5

brunohe, 01 OOlnl.h, 1 5 5

wegelabl. cui•• 2 2. 203

261-6). 261, 299

_INlg••"., too.l.d. Ttl. d.

Moin. ..lth 'OU"\.Ioul ond, 10

Corpocelo

.wttl potolo ognololll wilh .og. (ltom, ptolduIIO, ortd brown. II I

clormed, 42. 1 2 5

bUll.,nul .quolh, wenl,on chop ..ith brolttd .hol1oh ond pon'rOO,led, 199

bUlltr·poachtd

lob.ler, 1 24, ' 3 ' Moine lobll�' .ilh cfeamr labuer blolh ond mOleorpant·enrlch.d 0110 (-macaroni and (h.."·,, '32

Moine loblter wllh Itt.... pomm�1 Mo_lm. and 0 red b..,

euenc., 1 2 5

braId., (rrpmelle de, r oo .led Quinto 10.. 1 wllh pon lu, In, 1711-79

C cobbag., .polled .1o.01t .Ing. ..llh mu'lord loun and brohed ltd, 1 6 1

01 ,tllo..lln luno Hk;ol... 96

"Cotlor .010d" (Po,mlglono.Regglono (Ullord . ..lth fomolne ItlluC',

oncho...,. drutlng, and Pormuon

(fltp'), 25 1 . 252

Cole du Pore. 1 7 1 colo...

COIrOll. 1 1

I n broiled prime bul .ho,. fib . .. l1h fOOl ugelobltl and louthd bon. morrow, 1 111-90 In bf\lnolu. 1 5 5

Co\lohon. Clnd1. 2411 49 Collohon, Uom, 249

Callahan loml11 10rm, 1 911, 2411_49, 250

Comcmkll .!lk ltd plum" clo••·.unl�d all, and 1010 fOUO, 219

(onl�m•• 01\<1 bIoIfI"'''t.d (hlpl,

olno�r., .muillon, Main. Lob.l" pancoh. .. Ilk pta .hoof lOIod ond, 126 27 Irlcollte 01 "(0.gal. .. ltk rOO.I.d .holloll, h"b ,olod. and puf"

, ..�et, 911 99

.olod. Cor,u Veeckl", .llk oot.dtn ,ollin �I" and .pk.d, 2..2

In .olod 01 globe oltlcho�tI .. 111'1 oald�n k..bl and oorpoeho, 61

It.. aha corral po..d.,

cOlloul�1 01 ,umm" beonl and rOltlnOly. doubl. fib lomb chop. 196. 197

co",l lol

U9tlobl" and .oul••d bon. morro., 1 11 8 90

In rOO.I�d guln.o 10..1 en C'''pln.H. d. braid• • lIk pon Ju"

1711-79

21. 22 cotlo" beluga

cou"'lo•., panna calla .. 111'1, 21

chlul·mollnor�d lolmon .. lth 0 conW 01 Nul Qfang", pta ,hoot couili. 01\<1, '''0 4 1 CO>IoI, �'J'J�onl. It. '99Plonl co.lo,

co.lol. OltllO, loharon of peoli loploco ..111'1 Molptqu. o" ter' 01\<1. ". 21

• •\.au" 01 btn"'.. .... .lth cinnamon " k\. Ie . (lCIO"\ 216--- 17

........ ..Ilelo. tc. Cleo,"- 1I6� 17 ...ht (ooU... 296 97 cipolUI\I onion,

brohtd. a.II••lh" fal", boby lomt.-II••

cult un..d .. lIh ,...>.,,<01 .fg.,obl.., Ih,m. aU, ond, 1911

III ,,,utet4 Alktnllc hol,�t .. lth ,urnm.r ,vcco'o,h and 1\1' u.n.td ,""Ion

Qtolt. IU 4S ,lIn,It,_,InGI.d ,01n1oOn ..lth 0 canh' 01

no••1 (Mono", belUOO to.lol. and p.o .hool cov"',

Ill, 14G-41

tlt'ul po.. d". 111

91. 94

dom{I' tOIK'. ·"noulne· .lIk ..hilt, 2)

cM.lnut

In .oult.d cod .. lth (od coh. oAd polIl., eMl 1 41 43

�I.., 1I2

·clo", (ho..d ..," hoult.d c od .lth cod

292 93

clolillcollon ol lobll., con'CNfInl' .n 0.1••• 11 ))

(ltom. peo, ,,,ud.1 ..It" pea' chip. 01\<1. (h....lOu•• o.n.d, .. II" ,Io"'foo't�d 'f ..11ow

,INlglt"., 2)9. 2..0

Cn.1 Pon111'. 1411 lhkhn

"od. 120, 226-27 l.uul"Q, 1 7 1

coh. and po" I., 041'. 142 41

01 _01 ma,lnad., 110

01 talK", 7 ) clo,m.d bu"". "1. 1 1 S cf.o• • lcenl.d oil ChooulU .. lth ltd plum.,

1010 10110, olld. 2)9 Cobbl., Nob. 1 7 1

(hlno cop, 73. 13

cod. ,0"I"d, .lth cod (O�" and poIII.,

chlnal•• 71, 7)

coli ..

(hln... ,I"•. 71 dUnol) tom" , 73 (hipi

be." I.n chocGtol. cohl _Ilk 'I'd beet

k. (ltom ond loo,f.d .olnul ,ouc.,

oil

(ullOldl ..llh WO(\ I.ulll. logCK/f,

oorlk. ltd mull., .Ith a pol.lI. d 'g" dOlI. and, 156 )9

pta' IIIud.1 ..Ilk ,n..t""" Cltom and ptOl. 291 91

poloto, bow"., fri.d. lSI potato 01\<1 IIulll•• "8

"chip. and dip" (potOIO chip, .111'1 10\1111. dip'. 47. 411

chJ•• oIl, 166

In heOl" 01 polm .lIh putt. of morro. beon, and fI.ld o,..nl, 70 7 1

I n . lMI liP" lomalO 'Qfbtl .lIh lornatO 10riOrt ond botll oil, S7

In .01", hulf_GOd lmo�.d .alman .lIh polalo Q"CI<lhj end bollomk 010n. 9 1

141 41

C ttom, (hocolol. tondon' .. ltk chocotott d.nl�lI. . and, 100 101

••llocl, 101

"cott .. Qnd douUhnuu· (CO(1llu((lno

"mlll.ddo .lth elnnamon ''''00'

302 3

chh•• lor .hl,. Ilulli. oIl.lnluI..d 1 6 17

In b,oil.d p,lm. �.I ,hOII ,lb. ..lth '001

nO-II

leM' 0'0' '''' fOftl\oft ..\tn. 106-7

I n <OUlt bo\rlllon, 50

co�lo'. 15. 68

Collohon, Brell, 2411_249

QIlIIflI to,,,,hou.., (0,1, G"l lornolo

ond ltd bttll ond I�d be.,

cod, .oulted cod .llh poul., all oAd, (aU'' loot, In lomb .Iocl.. 224

'09",,1, 10.4-65

Cheddo, <h ...., 116

OOnolottl .. ltk lontlnG ond cel..,,. fOOl

CI.Om, 1 1 2� 1 l

(oul,lIo.. " ponno (OliO .. Ilk beluoo (otlo,.

142-43

(kollo"n. creom 01 bivtbe"r lOUP " Ih

(h..apto�. 110, 10ft••h.1I Clob ·.and.lek:

In ortlehohl bo�I•• 63

ChCKOlol., ..ith ltd ke' In Cltom and loo.ttd ..olnul .ouc., 302-3

oNi to*o lono. 119. lA,

..,.11\9 of. 2)6. 242 ch"rln, P'c.�l.d. poocMd rnoutord dvcl.

carrot 0+1, 167

(orrOI po_dt,. 212

•llh,

QOW.n..

�r•••or 01, 1.......9

.lth bab., I�.h and horurod'lh

buller. 1 1

croulon. lor, 131

ol lole gIOI. 10"-S

In broll,d be.t (�.h and ual lo"QlH

bulchttlnQ. 205. 209

,hoIIl.,.IIe,. ,oolltd fib 11..0\ .lth�'

,to..,bo\ed "',,"'vve ..ltk crf_ ..9 1 "",,'0". olOd bltt.".... ,. 190

0.10111• •ohll" and. 102: --61 Chompog� Of\d .lro.. be,,)' ,."w. 27S

(hoou,ce .. nh ltd '*""'. clo.... ".nled o6l.

·.ond_lch: 93

Co'N,all rhOllo .llh lkoud _kll• •",III" hom Alba. 1, III

croulon•• 2311. 259

cepe'• • 0u.H4 f'\oQnlo.thh loll ..ltk "'ohed

112

In (htlopeoh Boy 'OIl-tMII crab

!M.fed .. 01""• • OUC., 302� '

poIl.pooc � Iii' ond ,wt'.d Mou*ollt dvc\ to&. QIO" I)) 100000nt .. llh colt•• " M'" ond choC"oIof. ",fI"Lt." 100.)01, )00 I" ·�I �II" Oftd �11I••• • )01. 9 ,OVC'. poocn..i.boflONl k. C"OIl\ .. lIh ..tw.. choco&of.. boftON c,.pe. and,

Anno, Iord.loI.. ,ovc'. ond

HI(oh•• 9t.

cOlo"oy u�d

'" 1I••• ,pkt4 '00 ,,14 MaIM 1ob.1.. ..ltk

ond . 1 2

cOptlUnJ, 71.79

·co�UInI,· plcUt-d 0)'''''' .. 1Ih diU and

d(Mjohnul. (-collt. and douohnuu",.

bltod, 611

01'14,. U7

celt,y ,ool

"condled oppl.- ("fMC de ICNIM .. ilk

choc.,. toh' .. lth rltd be., k. "M"' and

In btoIled "'Hit 01 ,.-01 ..lth ...... corn poMfllo co\... g-loud .�Ioblt•• 0fI4 ,...., 00'''', 1 92-9) ...., ,''''"''''' ogftO&ottl .. lth fonllflo ptoor

302_3

cMor�" ..QfU"'9 ..lth,. 247

dtll. 2"

celt,.,. � "cho,,· ..lth bktc\. !nlH'"

cappuccino ttmllreddo ..ilh clnno_••ugor

brondad., 142

BUlh. Oowld. 1 3 7

CON�" .e� at, 14-15, 45

dOVOhnul.'. 262 61. 162, 199

Combo' III Ih. r'Ofllfnoul lone (8.nol.,• III conl'l

01 "",.t' Olono... cllfu •• mollnOlld .olmo" ..lth beluQo coolo" I�O .hoo'

41 1.11 "",•• 1 olano... coAdI.d

coulh, OM, 1 " 0

,"ubo.Lr. ..

l.nn.l, ond "wn(OlpGf'i' 'Olt..!, 110 7 1

10mo10, .�. 1_010 confl.

VJ(Soloo olld ltd onlorl, .ou...d calf',

11''', 0''''"'' rllW,l', ond .In'ool ,0uc'. 210 1 1

con.omm*

faIt, Glol lorntlfo, Oflll.d IQlmllOU .. C"'ddo" wll" hl.d cMp., OM,

15�. lSI

I n " ••

119

"'Mom"" (C.m_ _J fobt'." 12A lobt'." .n O.U., 31, 32--33 cookJo,: cI""OmMI t.....t, In cr.",. d. '0,1". with poochod apple. and ke cr.om, 296·97 pl,ou.tte, 'or rh",borb conU, with noy.1 Of'ono.., condl.d I.nn.I, ond nwnco,pone 'Of'b." 270·71 lobi., '" chacolol' fondon' with coff.o CI.om and chocolo'. d.nl.II.., 300-301

'01 ...fo",t' 01 bltl."w••t Cho<:oJoI. wflh cI"nornon·tlkk lee er.orn, 286-a7 ccolllng, phiJotophy of, 2 ..3, 9, 1 0

(0'01 011, 167 In b",tt.,.poocll.d Moine lobtl.' wllh c,.orny lobu., b'Olh and motco'POf'Ie.•nrkMd OliO, 132 (o,n: b,olud b,.ot' of ...01 wllh Olol.d "O.lobl.., ,w••, OOlllc, and y.llow, pol.n.o cohl, 1 92--93 ,0",lod. 01 P.llln duck b,eol' wl.h mol.1 muth,com .ouc. and c,.om.d ,w'e' whUe, 172 ...73 In loul••d Allon" c hal/but wllh .urnm., IUecOIOlh ond ,ue·tc.nl.d onion

010" , 144_45 whl'" oOnolottl wl.h .",mm., ',1,1111••, 83 "co,n."" holman 'O,fo,o with ......, ,.d onion er.rno ftolch.), 6·7 ollglnl aI, 4, 262 co"..lchon" I" Chuop.o&" Dar 101t.th.1I (lob ".ond...lch," 93 Conu V.cchl", ...IIh Iplud co"o, lolod and oold.n ,oliln pur", 242, 244 c610 d. bo.ul, In looll.d lib II.ok wllh oold.n cllon'".Uu, pomrn.. Anno, and OOld.lolle 10Uce, 182·83 co",III, 1 0

0"'01,110, peco,lno To"o"o with lOOll.d IW", p.pp." and, 250 ponl'r, '1'1 red m",U., ...lth a polell. d'G" dour and oo,Uc chIp., 156-S7, 159 p.o Ihool, cllrul·mollno,.d lolman with a conU, 01 no,,' oronou, beluoo cowlo" and, 140-4 1 tomato, ' 1'1 lolod 01 peill. lumm" lomoto.. ...llh ylno" lp, tomato 10,b'l, 56-57 cou,t bouillon, 50 lor "'co.." 01 UCOIOO" with a p"" 'e 01 tw..t caito'I. ,oolt.d ,hollo'l, and h.,b .olod. 98-99 In IIIIlmp with owacodo 10iso, 50 clob:

wfIfI w+Wpped (I� frokhe and, 282.-13 honey�d motcOlpont. l.mGfI ,oboron.pln. nut tort with, 294-95 ..f ch ..... and hOll" odllh, blol"d b weal longu. with boby I..kl and, 1 1 2_ 1 3

,.d wino riMoor, 64 ,ouce, 50llr Schmltt'l oppl. a nd clonbe"y luchtn wfth hoI, 3 1 3 o f ...olnul lOUP, 9 , 268 -",om 0' Wheal.- '" C" mo d. 'orine wl.h pooc.,.d oppl.. and Ice crtom Cllom puff dovgh, Ite cr'mo Anolol..:

p6'. 6 Chaul

In cho<:oto.o fondo"' with calf•• c,"m and chocolal. dtnl.II...

lOO.lOI

In crtom of blu.be"r IOVP with )'oourt chollo"", 264.-6S

In peal II,ud.1 wl'h cheltnul cllom and pea, (hipl. 292_93 Ilow·bohd merlnouo with bille"w"t chocolot. and, 290-9 1 cr.m. d . 'orl". wllh poach.d oppl. . and ke cream '·condled oppl,·" .. 97, 299 296 o"n" ooll.d Maul pln.oppl . ...lth frl.d poUI)' c,.om and whipped, 282-tl In laboyon of peoll loplaco ....lth Molpequ. oy,'elt and oul,o COWIOf, 2J In lolmon 10rtOl. with .w..' ,.d onion, 6·7 louee, IIIO.be,,)' 10lbet Iholtco"', ...llh I.......n.d. 274 In !rulll. dip '0' poto'o chip., 47, 48 CI'pel, 127 10' Moln. lobller ponca.... ...lth pea Ihoot lolod and olr.ge,-co"o. .muillon, 126-27 pooch.d,bonono I" c,.om ...lth whit. chocoloto-hanono. and chacolole .ouee, 280-8 1 crhplno 'bh IUn. 147 "0",1CH'11, 238 bllocho. 2l1, 259 ,,1,111, pin, nul, 294 cucumber'.), I.llr. O",no.n... Clob lolod ...lth glolny mullold wlnolgll"'. hit•• 1.lIuCl, ond, 92 Ih,lmp ...lth olocodo lalla. 50 ... aha cucumb.II. Enolhh cucumbell, [nol1lh -copelllnl." plc.led Orllell wllh dJtl In OOlpocho. lS

.ouee, Sol1r Schmitt'., 3 1 3 eronb'''r boonl, I n doubl. lib lomb chopi

and. 24 Cul1nor), Inllllu" of ,America. 209 CUllonll, In chocolot. londOi'll with coll.o croom and chocolot. d.nt.II... 300·301

...llh conaul.t 01 lummer b.on, and

CUllr .muhlon. fowo bean ognololll ...lth. 80 CUlf)' all, 165, 167

lOllmo,)', 197

CUllo,dl, 3

cr.onlll): 01 blu.be"r ,oup wllh roou" cha,lo"ol, 264�65, 267 ch..,nul, p.OI .tlud.1 wllh p.OI chipi and, 292493

l " d Ol l

docquob.· 'Of' c,"m of blu.bell)' 50Up ...llh yogurt charlottet, 264�5 fOl nectarine lolod wllh o,.en tomato c.onfituf. and hg,cWrt IoOboyon, 272-73 'Of' Roqu.fort 1,1fI. with fl.nch bulter pea' ,.II.h, 256-57 009uln, Arione. 10J

Pormlglono,Re9010no, with 'omoln. I'!luc•• on,howy d,..tlng, and Po,m..on "hpl. 2S 1 white IfullI. oll,lnlu"d, with block " 1,1111. ,ogout, 1 6- 1 7

equlpmenl, 1 1, 73 Eric', Itoff toloono, 1 16 elcorSloll, 'ricout. of, with a puree of .weel CO'tOlI, rOOlled ahollot., and herb 5010d. 98·99 ctp,"'O ••I,ocl. In cappuccino lemllreddo with cI"nomCH'1"ugor douohnul•• 262-6l uplololeur wllh ,ed plum., clove ,unled oU, ond lola rona, 239

D'Art09AOn. 103

100., 8 1

"Iondwlch: 93 Oung.nul, lolod ... IIh cucumb., lellr,

(lonb"'r and oppl, "uch.n with hal (,.om

320

dtnl.lI.. and, 300-l0 I

fMd potl,)', O'I.n"OOlled Moul plneappk!

Chuop.oh Day lOft'Ih.lI,

o,olny mUllo,d ,lnoIOle"•• and hit.. 1'lIuee, 92

coff. ., chocola• • fondonl with choco*ol.

00wlon·80h,. 188 d.n"I1... chocolot., fondon' ...lth calf.. ".om and, 300·30 I d.u.rt "tp", 12 7 In pooc.hed.bonono ke cream with white chocolol'-bonono c,tpe, and chocolot. IOU", 280·a I d" ,.mpe, 297-98

(orce, 198 In pIO', I", with french o,een lentlh, 215 '0"0 beonl: oonololli ...llh curry emuhlon. 80 In double rib lomb chopi wllh cououlel 01 .ummer bean' and

Olomond CI)'IIOI, 180 dl,,1mlnce YIO.,obl. cuh, 202, 203 dovbl. rib lomb chopa wllh cououl.t 01 lurnrner beont and ,o••mol)', 196. 197 dovOh' ognalolll, 7.. po.'O, 78 douohnull, cappuccino ..m1freddo ...lIh clnnomon'luooI, 262.-63 d,enlr.gt: onchowy, fa, POlmlglono.R.golono cUlloldl wllh ,omoln. leIlUce and Po,m..on cfhps, 251 11011, 1 1 7 dlled hOllerodl,h, 233 dlum .Ie.... 73

,o.emol)'. 197 In .auleed Allonlit hallb",. wIth .ummer ,u((olo.h and ru" lCen"d onion

010.., 144-45

lennel: In ottlchoh' bo,lgoul•• 63 candled, Ih",bo,b CCH'1I1, wllh noyel along", rnOlCorpone .orbel, and, 270-71 In COlPOCelO 0' yellowlln luna NI(olto. 96 In court boullion, 50 otl, 1 66 powder, 233 laddie 01 ,0bb1l In opplewood'lmo"ed bocon ....I'h coromellnd fennel o"d fennel all, 207

Oucon., Aloin. 89 duck 'ovlad. 01 Pelfn. b,eol' wllh (teamed 5.....' while com and motel mu,h,oom .ouce, 11 2-73 louee, -quitk: 228-29 IIOC", 220, 225

.olod of blocl mlulon 11'011 wllh ,oo,'ed Iweet peppe'l and Iho..ed. 67 IIgI: pon.roolled breol' 01 Iquob with 5..151 chold, southd dUCk lole 0'0', and owen.d,led block. 174

Dun.. Club, 1 1 5

polt.pooched, fiwe••plced roolIed Main,

Oungen." (tab In coult boumon. 50 .olod ..lth cucumbe, Jellr, glolny mUlto,d

lale 0'0' and. 133 .olod 01 block mln\on. wilh loolted

wlnolo" "', and IrIIC' 1.lIuce. 55, 92, 9.f Ou,f... Steph.n, 296

.ogplont' mint and, 1 5

lob.ter ...lth souleed Moulold duck

Iwee' peppeu and Ihawed fenntl. 67 yonlllo beon-fOOlled, ..lth wildflower hone),-Yonlllo Ice (team, 284 1110 dough. In pear 5t,udel with chetlnul

I n loolled guln" fowl e n ,,�plnelle de braid/ with pon lUI, 1 7 8-19 .�e 0"0 e09plon' cowlor �ooplonl co�lol bllnl ...llh rOOlled IW,,' peppen ond, 4 1 and rOOl'ed red peppen In ·comett.· 4 In lolod 01 globe oltlcho"'t with OOlden herb. and OOlpocho, 63 'Qgl, 1 1 poachlno. 1 8 tee 01.0 quail cOO, Emmenthol wllh Iplced COllol .olod and oold.n lohln PUICO. 242 .muttlonl, 73 CUflr, 10'0 b.on ognololll ...llh, 80 glnoer,collol, Maino loblter poncokel with pea Ihoo. lolod and, 126-27 .nd,.... b,ohed B.lglon. roolled ....,,'bllodl wl.h oppl.wood'Imohd bocon, bIcK.'ruffl• .01,1(', and, 2 1 2· 1 3

(team and pear chip., 292-93 "fI.h and chlp.- (red mullell ...lth a pol,", d'oll doul and gOlUc chip.), 1 56-57 !lwe'lplced ,00.led Main, labile, with port. poached fig' and .outtled Moulold duck lole oral, 1 3 1, 133 lIooeolell and leo 01 lomb, 196 lieu, de 101, 10, 1 8 1 lIour. 1 1 fluled awol "ge'oble cull, 202. 20]

101, 0101, 9, 15, 73, 10]- S flye••plced 100lIed Main' labile, wllh polt.pooched flgl and louhied

Moulo,d duck, 133 Gewullllomlne"poGched moulo,d duck, wl.h G,,,,uflllom'nel lellr,

III

moulold, dUCk, pon.,oo.led bltolt at Iquob wllh Swlu cho,d, owen·dlled block tlg., and loulhd, 174 poGch.d rnoulord duck. au lorchon w1th plc�led che"le5, 106-1 preporo'lon,. 2

roo,,�, las "",hoi. focut.d m4X1lord d��, _llh opplu ond block trullle., 1 10 'Ot\IIno, chulnut ognolo!!1 ...Ith eel.,., tOOl purt. ond, a:t 'reeter.curlng '01. gro•• 104 French loundry, 10, 42, 41, 0, 47, 73. 124, I lS, 1l7, 172. 196, 19a, 221, 232, 247, lOS chu•• coun. Of, 216 denert at, 276, 28] 'o'e grOI 01. 105 gomhh at, ISS hlltory ai, 3-4, 8-9, 192. 1 1 2 pu'v'rou to, a. 28-29, 68-69, 1 21, 126,

19S, 248-49

'rkont. 01 .,co'goll with a pu,e. 0, ••,.1 carrOll. roost.d .holloh. and h.rb salad, 98-99 Irhh I.ttuce ou_ lordon., Peroll d. Brlbel ..lth, 257 In corpocelo of r.llowfln tuna NI�oll" 96 In Dungene.. crab .olod with cucumber lelly, grainy mustard vlnolgrell" and, 92

gonoeh., In chocolol. fondant with call.. cream and chocolot. dent.IICI, 1OO�JOI gor/lc. I I broiled breast 0' �eol ...lth rellow com polenta cokes, gloted ....gelobl.., and Iweet, 192-93 chip., ,cd mullet wl,h a po/elfe d'o., dou. and, IS6-59 ,oo.led, putte, 25 tullel, In .olod 01 pellte IUmme, lomotoes wllh �Ine.rlpe tomato .o,bet. 56-57 gornl,h brunolle, 155 lrullle, 2 1 2_1 3 see 01.0 vegeloble gomhh gOJpocho, 9, 15 lolod 0' globe ortlchol.. wl,h go,den herb. and, 62 g.lolln ,heeh, 10 In cream 01 blueberry .oup ...lth yogutt chorlollel, 264-65 In Dungenen crab ,olod with cucumber 1.1Iy, grainy mustard tlnolgtett., and Itllee lettuce. 92 In GowUrJI,omlner'pooched moulo'd duck 101. gtOI with Ge.VfJlromln.t Icily, 1 1 1 In Roquefort Irlll. with French bulle' peor reillh, 256-57 In "ro.be"y ond chompogn. lerrln., 27> In '1elou't 01 blll.,..eel chocolol• •lth elnnomon •• tlck lce cream, 216·a7 Gewuu" omln.,.pooehed moulord dUCk tol. Qro. "'"h G....uul'omln.' /ellr, I I I glno.,·corrol emultlon, Moine lobller poncol.. .I,h p4'0 .hoo, .olod and,

126-27

010lel, 1 0 bolsomk, 231 beet, 239

port wine. 211 rve-1C�1t'd onlon, lOt 10UfHd AlkJrIlk hol,bul .. lth .� IUCCOlOlh ond.

144-45

.o,.le� Oto�, Poc,'k mol .hh Ir.,h 'Ofbcon., 1C0Wotl Oftd rodl.h .oktd, and, I S4-55 O"OCchi poloto, 90 poloto, .orm 't\ilhoood·.�ed .olmon ..lth bol�mic glon Oftd. 91 ... gool che

tk�... .lth oord 4ft lOtocf of O'obot Of hti-bl Oftd go'petho, 62 �1t. ·C2... n, 1l5 � MOICOflMNW """" '"'*' IOboron-p&ne ""I tort .1It\. 294 hontrodhh ..I '-'""'. broI.td be-t. cht>th eftd , 10ft0W "'lth boby ...... and, I U.ll

dritd. 2))

o.ked C�rtou, ",-lIh slo••roo" t'd yt:llow and r� be." and It'd be.I wktolgretl,. 239, 240. 240 moun•• Po'ml9�.Regg\ono crllps, 49 QCMIgtr.., 47, 41 OfOpeu� 041, 1 1 Gre.n. Cotmle, 28-29

"e crf'Om c�.stk� .. &ou.. of bltten...1 chocokl,• •llk, 216-17 cr'me d. lor"" .lth pooched opt)le, and. 296.97 pooched·boftofto• •lth .hI" chocoto'e bonono crt,.1 Oftd (hocoto,. 10UC'.

glten beo,,., In doubl. rib lomb Chopl ",lth COIICXII.I O, .U"""', �nl Oftd ,oumor" 197 gre.n Itnill., �" 'e.t "'lth rrt",h. 2 1 S oreen lomolo conlllUlf, ntClorl.,. .oktd .lth holflnut .0bofWj and, 272_73 gflbkh. .o�., 10, 2 1 4- 1 5 orm.d 'ormhouse Cheddo" [orlr Girt lomalO conlomm•• and buller."k-d chip. '''soup and �nd.kh"),

,ed "". choc.oIot. (oh • • lth locnltd _oinut IOUC. ond, 102-1 ",Ildlto.., honey, '0l'Il110 bean_roo" .d "0' .lth, 284 n. lloIIon'. hkt•• bolt'd _,�� ",lIh CI,me A.tIo;Iloh. and bI"",..., chocola,.). 1.., 290 91 In'u.ed �II. 165 67 lngredl.nl1, I 1

210.. 1 '

2.55, 25a

Gt\iy're c ...... ooug" ". 47 .lth .pkt'd co"ot lO\od and gold.n rohln purte, 242 ouln.o 10.', ,oosted, en cri-plntll' d. brold, "'ltk pon /u•• 1 76, 177_79 G", So...oy, 247

H hal,bul, loulted Allon,k. ",I'h ,um",,' succolo,h and ru" 'Cft'll.d onlot! gI0", 14W5 haricol' utt., 65 .olod 01, tomalo lottore, chi•• �I, and. 64 In 'olod 01 Olobe oltlchoh, .lth gOld.t'I hflb. and 9OlpcKho, 62 honlnul ,oboyon, n'(lo,ln• •olod .llh 9,un lomoto conUlure and. 272_ 73 "heed 'a loe" (plg', h.od and plg'. 'ee'). 9,

10, 2 1 4- 1 5

heor1. 0 1 polm, a, 6 a 69 .lth PUle. 01 mouo. beOt'll and 1I.ld g,,,n., 70-71. 70 h.lrtoom temo'o 1011 wllh Nlr;oh. �j •• 'openod•• mb.d 1I.ld or..n" and bo.11 ,Inolorell" 65, 66 H,II.r, Su.!.. 1 0 - 1 1 Henln, R�ond, 2 , l i S, 1 7 1 . 209 he,b', 1 1 oIh, 165 66 lochet. In rOOUtd OUIMO IQ\O'«n crt".n«". d, b,old• •llk pon 11.1', 1 7a�79 herb lolod, 97 In corpocclo 01 ,".lIo..lln luno NI�ollt, 96 1,lcolI" 01 ..corOOI1 .lth a po..tl', 01 I. eel COIIOh, roou.d .hello", ond. 0' ..

Jope"'lt bf.od cr_b•• Ie. ponlo 1«lIie. (d....rl', 107 concord grope. 301- 9 uta.berry and chompoVne 1.,,1.,.. :275 ",.u, lOa 9 �II, cucumber. 91 G ••UIJ" oml.,." I I I, 275 �Il.nne _'O.lobit ,u", 201. 201

Keller, JOltph, 42 4) Keller, Thomo., 2 .4, I 9, 123. 195, 305 COl"' of, 42 ....]. l iS, 171. 205,

109,247 rr..",h lound" and, I, 3 1 2 ph�IOIoph, 0 1 'OO�lnI) 01. 2 1.9, 10 Ucln'H. 95. 209 lOlke, .olt, 11. 110 "uch.n, Solly 5chnllu·. o� and uonbe"" "'I'h hot cr.om lOW •• 3 1 )

�mb. 15 'h. cu" ,.,_..d 1I.1I."her 101m bob" with P,ourtt;o l ••oelobl." brohed (lpo'lInl Wonl. and ,h,_ 011. I U double lib, (hop, .Ith co. .ovl.t a ' ,umnwr beonl ond ,o"_r,, 197 punerOf, at, 1 'OW', -quk ...• 221·29 .'oe.., 220, 224 lo Rh. (1. .IOUlont', 205. 109. 247 knogno, [,k', Iiolf, l i b I"h bob" broll.d b ..., cheeh and uol tonqu• •lth hOflerodhh Cleom and,

1 1 2. 1 l

1ft brunell', 155

bwll",poochtd Mo"'- aob" ., ..lth pot"I'M' Mo'-Im. • ,... bHl ."tn<.

.... 12$

1ft COVl' boui8on.. 50 '" Irko,," 01 e"O"OO" _It... 0 P\I'" 01 ,.", (Of,..I" 'OOI,td ,hollol'. and helb •.toct. 91a99

0.lObotor' p&M nY' 'all .lth hoM)9d I'I\OlCorpoGfte U"'" 9, 194...95. )95 o • •ub" I,,,,, tOt t\l'IoI, 301·0 -I+�• • lth .hI" (10m '0\1(,. 24, 25.

27, 17 Uq...adl. IlImmIftg and It,olN"Q of, I ' ,"at, I S. 209

I.UttH COIt'I, YWoIIo ond rtd onion (onll,. oNon '''-91. ond .""'00' loun (-It,.. ond Qft/onl-I, 2 1 0 - 1 I

lobi'...

121

blolh. "10m, Moln., 35 bw"..,.poo chtd, 1 24. I I I bwll.,.poochtd Molnt, .ltho utOmy, blolh oltd fftOlCor�nlkhtd 0 1'10. 112 bw"."'�htd Main., ...lth I....., poMmel Mo_1m. ond ° ltd M.,

.... ft e e. 125 (onl� .n gelt., 11, ll:- )) (oo1.l�. 114 Ih.'IP'c.d loolt.d Moln•• ",llh porI. poached I�. and .out.td Movlord duck f�. orOl, III Main., ponca.... .I,h JI+O ,hoot lolod ond VI"O'hcolfol .muh� 126-27 .10<'" 71. 124 1oI0 lOttO, (hoovlC• •Ith ,td ph,,"'I, clo.e H.n,.d 011. ond, 2)9 1�, 209

-mocOlon' ond ch••,,· (bull.,.pooch.d Moine k»bller .lth ,,-am, �st., broth ond mouolpon•••,,,lch.d 0110,, 1 12 MocolY, Poul.II.., lOS, 247 Moco" , R.M. 205. 247 m6,h., baby, .hlppl'd e,l. d. "".ou• •n l.utll.,• •lth l.lIIch.II, peppe' and, ll}, 2]. ,1M CoIiIOtHWnit (PoInt'. 1 7 1 MohOn .Ith tpiud (0"01 lolod ond gold.n lohln pur.., 242 Moln. lob.,,, pon<:oh. ",llh peG lkool .olod and ol"Oero<ollol .muliion (-pea' 0"" COtrO""', 126 27. 119 Moipequ. 0,,,,,., lobo,on a. ptoli loploco .ith 0,,110 co.io, and '-otll.,. and peorh-), 21 mollnod.., 190 10' brohlno ,holl rll.... 116 cllrUI', lolmGII .lth 0 (anllt of no,,1 OIOng.., bel�o co�lo" ond peo lhool cov'h, ... 0 4 1 tor G• •uu,rotNn".pooch.d moulo,d duck toJ. 0'01 .lIk G•• ilutromlne, 1.11" I I I red .In., III 90 morro.. beonl In doub'. ,111 lomb chop. "'lIlt cOlloul., 01 .umm., bean. ond 10.'mo,y, 197 po..tl". heo'" of polm "'lth 1I.ld O,..nl ond, 70�} 1

l " rI . .

311

fNlr,ow bon ••

I n lOlling 01 polOI"1 wllh �ck Inllll• •,

b,oh.d prim. be., Ihort rlbl .lth root �'O"oblll and louthd, 188--90 In I,lconh of ,ICO,ootl .lth a pvt'. of IW••t (O"OU, ,ooll.d .hollot., and

h"b .olod, 98-99, 1 00

Martin, Keith, 8 , 1 9 4-95, '94 meleorpon.

86-87

and Ie. ".om, 296-97

powd.,. 232 PV'vtyOrt of, 28-29

loulhd monk"lh tall with 'ohlfy, dpel,

mUII.h

.'od:, 'n block .eo boll wllh Iw.d por'nlpt, o"ow'.ol Ipfnoch, and .0U'on....onillo laue., 1 4 6.....7

.muhlon, 80 hon.,-.d, (tlom, 294

muuord powd", 233

In Main. lobal., ponca..... with pteo

mu,lOld 10UU, ,poII.d I"ot• •Ing. with

IhOOI .olod olld olng.,.co"ot

blohed ,ed cobbog. and, 1 6 1

'muhlon, 126-27

'Olb.l, ,t.ubotb (onlll wilh no�.1 O'Ongll, condl.d f.nn.I, and, 270.71 In whll. corn oonololli wllh lumm" ',1.1111.,, 83 moyonnoh., 42 and bltl,,.wUI cho(olol" 290-91

01/1, I I, 165-67

mIni

bolll, I66

'gop/oni and, 1 5

COI'OI. 167

011, 166 mltlpoil, y.g.lobl. (1.111, 201, 203 mol, pocmc, with huh loyb.onl, "all/on and rodllh lolod, ond 10y.l.mpl. orang. glo.., 154.55, 154 monUhh loll, 10Ulhd, wllh broll.d ol'olh, lohlfr, and dp.I, 162 .. 63

pon.rooll.d Main. jumbo 1e01/0PI wllh o,pOrogul PUI'. and, 136 10UU, ,oulad. 01 p.!,.ln dud .. b,.oll wllh ctlom.d Iw••1 whit. corn and, 1 7 2·73 IIv" lplnd ,ooll.d Moln. lolnl.r wllh po,l.pooch.d 1/01 ond 10UIted, 1 3 3

G••u,.IIomln.,.pooch.d• •llh G••UlJllomln.r ,.Uy, I I I

pon" ooII.d btloll 01 ,quob ...llh S...h, chord. oy.n·drl.d bloc\,. fig I, and loul••d, 174 pooch.d, o u lo((/,of! wilt. plckl.d

In'ullng, 165-67

Ihym., 1 65, 166 IIulU•• 73 aI/v. lop.nod., NI..oh., helt'oom 10mO'0 lOll ...llh mbed 1I.ld glrenl, bolll onlonhl, I I

B.I/w.lh.r 101m baby 10mb- lI.e cult

",ud ...llh P,oun..al �.g'lobl'l. Ihym. oil. and b,o/ltd c/pallJnl, 198

glo,., ,u.-te.n,.d, 10ul••d Allonl/c hol.b",1 with lumm., I"'CCOIOlh and, 144-45 rlngl, 2 1 0_ 1 1

ch." ,u, 106-7 trull/••, 1 1 0

'n lolod 01 glob. olllcllokli ..llh gOlden h.,bl and gOlpacho, 62

...... 1 ,.d, cr'm. frolch., lolmon lor'oti

•lIh

(hocolol" 290-9 1 goal c h..... POlmlglono.R.gglono (II.PI wllh, 49 In Roqu.'ort ttlll• ... It" Ftlnch bu"" p.or I.lhh, 256-57 thllmp, 74 mOIlOti/lo. In E,/c'• •1011 1010gno, 1 1 6 mull.l, I.d, wllh a pol,,,o 11'011 dou_ and

Indu

'.nn.I, 166

pI.porotlon, to,. 15

whol. ,oou.d• •llh opplll and block

Co,naloll Ihollo with, 88

CU"y, 165, 167

yinolgtlll" olld, 66

moulord duck '01. 0'0'

gOllic chipl. 156-57

cOlol, 167

lOl.ma,y, 165, 166

mo,.1 mUlt"ooml

mUlhloom ,ogou,:

c/oy•.•unl.d. 239

portl.y. 166

Mood, Pot, 68- 69

"'m. AnOlol .. and blll.,.•••1

(hlu, 166

mlnl, 166

Mood, John, 8, 68-69

(hocolol" In Ilow·bohd m.,lnou•

obllqu. ug.labl. CUll. 101, 203 oflol, 209

mlnuldlu y.g.lobl. cull, 201, 203

moun'

Molpeque, .oboron of peart loploco wllh osel,o caylor and, 2 3 plcU.d, with Engllih cucumber "copell/nl" and d.lI. 24

...lth, 6-7 Vidalia and 'ed. conlll. 2 10- 1 1 onion powd." 232 olong.(II, no••1 c!tIUI.morlnol.d tolmon "'[It. belugo co_lOt, poo .hoot COUIlI, and coniI t of, 140 4 1 ,hubarb (onl/, ... lrh candled '.nn.', mOteOlpan. 10lbel, and, 270-71 arlO, b",,,.,.poached Maine 10b,ler wl,h cr.omy lobi'" blo,h and malColpone••nrlch.d, 1 3 2 OU" O CaYlor• •oboron 0 ' p.orl toplo(o with Molp.qu. 0YII." ond, 21. 23

poliO dough. 78

lor artichoke ro.lolI, 152-53

In lo�o bun oonolonl with curry emuhlon. 80 In -"nguln'- with while clam 10UU, 25 In whhe corn ognololl' .lth .ummer !rulll'I. 83

lhopping fo" 2 1

polIo mochln'I, 74

Ih",cklng, 22

"oyll." and pear" · hoboyon 01 peoll loploco with Molpequ. Of'Ileli and oltl,o CO.kll), 2 1 . 23. 135

n.cto,ln. lolod w!th gr••n 'omoto (onfllu,.

m.,lnguII, alow.bo ....d, with ,,'m. AnG'oll' MIII." fdgor, 195

146-47

Nopo Vall.... CoUI , 3 ....,. 2a

HI..ol•• r.IJo.fln luno, (orpacclo of, 96-97

'plnoch, lollron••onlllo louce, and.

and brobed, 1 62--63 In couUllowe, pon"" (0110 .llh beluga

and holtinul labaron. 272-73

Modm',, 1 2 5

188_90 ,weel. block ICO ban wllh ollowleo'

oyll.u· co.lor, 22

In 10U,* grlblch., 146

132 I n fo�o b u n oonoloul with (U"y

yegelobl.. and .0",lied bon. morrow.

Cornerall ,hono ...ith broiled, aa

lob"" with ".omy lobatt, b'olh and,

10",Iit'd cod wllh cad coh' ond. 142-43

0110111, 2

lOU,* 'or ognelolll, 74

tlock, 220, 227

I•• oliO cepel, Chanl.,.I1••, morel.

poIII� 011. 166 porsnlp.In blolled prime buf Ihort ,Ibl wllh 1001

282_83

mUlh,oom ,ogoul

·.n,'ch.d OliO, buu,,·pooch.d Moln.

322

Ito"ht '-plneoppl. chop·'.

wlld, 2a.29

In CI'm. d. 'Olin. with pooch.d oppl.1

oYen·,ooiled Me",1 pineappl. with fried pollry cr.om ond whipped c,em.

mUlh'OOml'

pa,try cream. fried, 282-83

p6le 0 chouI, 47, 47, 48

In Gnl�'ro che". gougt,e., 47 ... PUI" , 73 10Up. p"" io of Englllh, .lIh ...hll0 II",fUe 011 and POlmeson "iIPI. 37

Pacific mol with It",h 1000laont, teollion and rodlth lolod, and loy-Iemple orang. 010", 154.55. 154 polelle d'o" doul, ,ed m",lI.. with garlic chip. and. 156

Ire 0110 pea .hool(l) prochel. poochtd wllh y"lu, 10lbet, 269 peach palm (pel.baye). 68-69 "peon"" buller and lellles," 307, 308-9

pol.llel, 159

peon",1 bUll" t r",lIlu, 307, 307. 308-9

Polladln, 'eon.louh, 258

pear

Palm Beach Yachl C/",b, 42, 1 1 5 pancokel, MaIno lobu." .lIh peo IhOOI lalod and olng",co"ol em",lllon, 126-27

ponko (lopanu. bleod "",mb.), 156 'n "tm. d. fa,ln. wllh pooch.d opplu and Ice ".om. 296-97

In o ••n.roolled Maul plneoppl. with fIled pol" Y cream ond whipped ,,'mo " old", 282-83

In tid mull.1 with 0 pO/OliO d'o.' doul and garlic chip•• 156-57 ponno (OliO, cou""ow.r. with beluga coylor, 22 pon·rooll.d b,eolt 01 ,quob .llh Swl.. chold, lo"" ttd duck 101. grOI and o�en·drled block "0', 174

Maino lumbo "ollopi ...llh morel mu,hrooml and OlporogUI ,uli., 136

Ilrlp.d ball wllh olileho.... ,0�loli and borlgaul. ylnolglell',

lSI, 152-53

poper.lhln ..gelobl. cull, 203, 203

pure., In cream of walnut 10"'p, 268 rell,h, Roq",e'ort Irifle with Flench buller. 256-57 .lrud.1 ..ltk chutnUI cream and pea' chlpl, 292_93 "p.o. and cotloll· (Moine labile, pancakes .Ith peo Ihoot lolod and ginger COtrOI emultion), 126-27, '29 pea Ihoo,(I) coull

•• cllnll.morlnOlcd lolmon

and, 140_4 1 lolod. Moine lobller poncok" .IIh ginger-carrol emulsion and, 1 26-27 pecorlno TOICono wilh roolled

prppe,. block. I I , 180-8 1 pepptr. roolled Iweel, pecorlno TOICono wllh 01"'0",10 co",1I1 and, 250 pepper, Te!llche"y, / 8 1 Iyr",p, In cream o f blueb."y lO"'P wllh YOO",rt challollet, 264-65 whipped Brio de Mea",. en leulliete ...lth baby meche and. 237, 238 pepper, ...hlte, 180, 1 8 1

Po,lll.nn. boll �.g..obl. Cull,

pepper conlelll, 97

101. 203 POlk Ann",. Colt. 1J7 wIth gool chul. mOUIlO, 49 Pormlglano.R,golono (u,'ordl with romolno I.IIUU, oncho¥)' dre..lng, and. 251 Parmlglono.Regglona C",Ila,d. ..Ilk ,omolno lelluc •• oncho..., dtl..lno, ond Po,m..on uhpi I-COllor lolod-), 251. 151 poul.y

'0' chlorophyll, 247 In red mullet wilh a po/ello d'od dou. and gallic chip I, 156. 159

••eel

peppen ond orugulo COUUI, 250

pejlboye (peoch polml, 68-69

pOtChmenl popel lid I, 190

Porm",on crllPl, 37

wllh a

conill 01 na�ol o,ano.., beluga co.lo,.

'n bUnl with roolled Iweel peppe,. and eooploni COylOf, 41

In (orpocelo of yellowfln luna NI�olu, 96-97 pepprtl, bell, leO b,1I peppOll. green, bell p,ppert, red, bell peppen. yellow Peral! d. Blebl, wllh Irlth OUI lordonl, 255, 257 Pellre BOlquo wllh Iplcrd (orrOI lolod and golden loilin pure•• 242 plcUed che"lu, poached moulord duck folo glO' au !o,cI.on ...lth, 1 06-7 Oyllerl, ...llh Englilh c",cumber -coprllln'" and dill, 24, 27

plO'1 fUI, 220

wllh Frtnch O'U" It"IIII, 2 1 5 plO'1 htod aNt pig'l Ittl (-htod 1 0 10.-), 9, 10,214_15 plh, I n Pacilic mol with huh lo,1Monl, Icolllo" OM rodllh lolod, aNt lOy_

ttmpl. oro"o. Ololt, 154-55 -plntoppl. chop- (O_t"·rOOlttd Maul pl"tOppl. ....lth fritd POltry "tom OM ....·hlpPtd crime Irolchl), 282-8]

pi"' "ul 10rt, Itmon 10boycm_, wll'" honeo,td mOl<orpotl. (team, 294 pink 10lt, '" 10lt, pink plrouettl coollel, I" rhubarb ConUI ....ilh r10wcl OlO"gll'l, coNtltd '.nnel, oNt mOICOlpont lorbtl, 270.71 pluml, red, Choou", with dovI.tcl"l.d 011' 1010 rona, o"d, 239 poached, poachl"9 Oppltl, 296-97 ·bo"o"o 1(1 "tOm ..ith ..hltl chocolol, bo"o"o crtpcll and chocolot. 101K. (-bo"ono Iplll-), 280-81 101. oral, 104_5

liquid, 269 lob,l." 1 24, 125, 1 3 5 moulord duck fol. grol a u lorcher. ..lth plckltd chtnl.., 106_7, 10' Pol"I, Fernond, 1 7 1 pol.MO

col.., ycllow com, brohtd b,cOH of _col wllh gland _eg.lobln, Iweel gortrc, o"d, 192-93 I" ..hllc corn ognolOll' wllh lummer

mulkroom, 232 onkItI,212 10000I00 o, 2))

pommci Anno, rOOII.d rib 11.011. ..ith oold.n chonlelelltl, Bord.lol" 10uce,

and, 182-83 pommCI MOllm, butler'poach.d Molnl lobsler .lIh Itch, ltd bt.1 uunc., and, 1 2 5 pompom), I " Poclilc mol wllh huh loybeonl, I<olllon orwl rodllh lolod, o"d 10'f-lempl. orongl glori, 154-55

prGl(lulto, '...., POlolo �ftOIoltl ..IIh ,� CllOm, brOw" tNn.r, and, " pull ponry, 297�91

'" htlrtoom IOIT'IOIO 1011 _llh N�oI.. 011., loperoad., mlltd 'leld or�I1I', O� bolll _Iroo!gl,"', 66 ...,.. I(ollop, .lth mor.1 mUlhf-ooml and,

". 01 COffol. Irkout. 01 IIcor9O" .lth rooutd lkalloll, h.,b IOIod OM' 98-99

of ["GIl'h "" 'OI.Ip .llh _hll. INIII, oil oNt ParmllO" crhpl, )7 at 'ole O'Ot. 104 oo'd.n rollin, CoIiU V,«hl\! ..lth Ipked cOIIOI tolod OM. 242

poIINP. I" bloc!. 110 bon .lth 0110..1", IpI"4ch, 10Ilro,.Io,0""/.o '0"'" and I"eel, 146-47 pta, 73 pta', I" Cflom 01 ..oln"'l IOVp, 268 ptor, In Requ.lort 'rilll ..lth fflnch tNlltr pta' ttilih. 2S6.57 polOlo. In lOlling 01 polOlo" .lth b'oclo.

IflIlIl", 86-87

qllOlI eggl, I S

ono<chl, 90 mo,htd, 71

pommll MOllm, 125 In rOOlled r,b lI.ok ....lth golden ckanlCtellu, pommu Anno, orwl Bordelolse 10Uce, 182-83 In loul�cd cod wllh cod CQ�" and portle, 0,1, 1 42-43 tOiling of, .,th block "ulltu, 86 87 -pot'ou.l,u- Ibrol"d prim, bt.1 thort rlbl ..llh root _eo.tobln and loulud bon' mOllO.), 187, 188 90 powdtrt, 2 3 1 3] bUI, 233 co"ol, 232 clll\.II. 232 tenntl, 2]3

Ith•• oua

lordonl. 257

bo(�, 18 qu.n.II .., 274 ·qulclo.- 10UCt., 228-29

loddl. of, l" oppl...ood·lmahd bocon ..lth corom.l,nd " ""el OM 1,"n.1 011, 207 10""', -q",lct.,- 22&.-29

rodllh lolod, Pocltlc mol .llh It"h IOtb�on,. 1(01U�, lOY I.mpl. orang.

gloll, ond, IS4 55

210·11

rtll,h, Roq....lon lnlle ..lth rflnch butt" p.or. 2S6-S7

""ulhroom In 10,tI"'O 01 polOIQe, .llh bloc!. "uWII. 16 87 ..hit. ',1,1111. oIl·lntulld cullo.dl ..lth

lhuba.b Contll ..lIh no••1 oro",. ., (Oftdlflj 1.""",1, and motCo'PDftI lortMl (·Io/.od" du pdnl.mpl', 270.71

,kOllo che. ... 249 In [ric', '1011 101091\0,

bloct. tluill., 1 6 _ 1 7

lol lln i

CoII'Dloll, .llh .ho.ed .hl1. hutU..

1r0fl'l Alba, II In .hli. (0'" �noIoltl .llh '1joINI>I1I IIullllt, I)

Couu V.«hlu .lth Ipktd coItal

lolod ond oold.n, 242

I" (flam at blu.bllr, lOUP chelloUIt, 264 65 ptPpcI' on, 1 8 1 ,0.IoH, 74, 7 8 79

ollkhe!." pon ,ooll.d ",I�d boll .llh

borlgoul. ,Inolguu, and. 1�2 5)

of bkH:!. "" ulorl l'o l .Ith ,oculH ,." t

IWppen oneS ,�ofll l__I, 67

tOf (OfPOCdo at ,..u.o..fln 1_ Hl(ohl, 96

O\IfIg'MU (fob,

.lth c"'\lmber ,.U'f,

OIOIn, mullolll _11\01;11111, and hh" 1.1111(1, 92

ond QCll potho. 61

kalko h _"", tOlnOlO tOllO". ond cl1h, 061. 64, 6S

k"b, 97 �ClOI",,-, .'Ih 0"'" 'omalo conll,u"

ond houl"ul 10bo,on, 272 7) po"I" . In ltd mullil .. lth 0 pol.", d'." dou. ond OOllk chip., 1 S6-SJ fM'O lhoo', MaiM Lob,III poncohl _llh OI"9'N:O"ol ,muhlon and, 126-27

of petlll ,umm" lomolon ..llh .In,.,lpe

Sail, Schml"', (fonbt", onll Oppll �""h,"

2 1 2. 1 )

rock lOft mi., 24 In -hngul�- ..I,h _hili (/.om 10IKI, 25 In pk\l.d Ol"." .lIh ["Olhh (lI(umbe, ·co�IIIn1· o"d d,U, 2. ,.. 'n (oral oil, 167 lolulll, 124 It, 01.0 bollO'go dl ""'9glll• ramoln. klllK ., Polmtglono Rf.9VIoI\O C Ul lo.d .llh oncka..... drlt,lng, Po.m. .on (fhp, orwl, 2S1 Roq",.tOlt, 2.9 ifill. ..lth f,,",h tNlIII ,",or "I"h. " ,, 'o..mol, OII. 16S, 166

f(tu\odl o l Pd,'" due\. br.o,' .lIh c "o _d

_hili CO'" aNt mor.1

mu,h,oom ,ouc', 172 71

rUI· tc.nl.d �10f'\ glon, ,oult.d Alionlic hohlNI ..It.. ,Urn.llWr ""((010,11 orwf IU 4S

..llh hoi ".-om IClIK., ) 1 ) lolmon -chop'- .llh til"., ond block IIullllt, 1 )7, 281

clh"I'n\Oll"4lld, "'Ih Q cantil 01 no..1 0I0ng", btluoo co.lor. 0"11 pea 'hoot (OUII" 1 4 0 ,,( 1 101'0.. . IIh 1 ...., lid onion CI.m. Irolch' 4. 6 7, 10, )05

.o,m frult ..GOd ,mO\.ld, .lth pololO gnocchl

o rwl bohomlc 01011, 9 1

loho, o,O(odo, ,h" mp .1111, SO

lohlt" 10u".11 monUhh lol! .. llh b,olud

oolo,h. (tIM'. ond, 162 6) loh, I I, 180

II'

10' blonchlng o".n "g'lobln. S 8 10lt, pin\. In G..ur"'o"llM,.pooch.d �lolll duck loJ.t 0'0' .llh c;..W",omIfII'

}ta"

III

In pooch.d moulo,d duct. 101, 0'0' 0,",

1000ehotr .. I,h pk\.l.d chi"" ,, 106�7 S oNt K doughnut., 262 'OIK.', 10, 220 tor ognalon', 7<4

tOf' 8.1I.. .lh., 101m bolr, lomb- II., cull .....d .lth Pro••n�ol . .g.lobl••, broilld cipolllni onIon I, and IfI,ml

aU, 198

blo(k 110 boll ..lth 1 • •lt POl1nIPI,

s ho,.III<jI, nl(lOlln. 10lod .lIh gllln lomolO (on'"ull OM, 271 7) I.mon,

M••I OtOf'QIt, (ol\dlflj I,n�" ond molCOlponl lorbltl, 270.71

......

,pk,d COIIOI, 241

b&od. INIli. laue.,

.. lIh '09urt

blo." tNII,.. SNo,(i\ltto, ond, I' ·loIod- d \l ptinl.mp, (.h\lbolb contll .. lth

lodllh, U4 SS

nb 1I.0!. .llh oo'd�n chonttreUIt, pomme, Anno, and BOfd.loh. 'OIK' (-,obbo dobbo do-), 182 81, U' 1 .. ..lbot.od, .llh oppl,.. ood.,mohd bocon, broilld B.lglon .Ntl••, and

,0lpbt"l"

0Nt. 1 44-47 '000 (fl'Of'l\ ,_.., pololo OO�1t1 .Ilh

ton�lo IOftMl, " , S6 SJ

bell pclPIM", 2S0 ch1(Io.I", 1 7 1 toll oral, 105. 1 as

Iuliano. 10f' 'lulll"'O In 10', VtloNqU', 1 $

rtd be�h, Itl b ....!lI)

116

"10110, 19

1 .. .11

,� ot ,.bbli .,. o��·,fftOled bocon ..lth (OfOfM&hed leftMl 0fId '"""I .u. 207 'ollrGl" .QNIo '.�'. Wack. 'M bon .. lIh 1_'" POflRl"" OffOw�1 IrMlIOCh.

01 O/.obe orlkhoh, .llh {tOrd'" h.,b.

,��, 210

2S6 57

rogOl.lI

purr.,

mollO., lIa-90 led .. In. .I.twvor h . ICMI'OIO CI"",- 1ft ,olod 01 horicot. _.. 10rtOll, and (hh, oil, 64 10ue., ,oulH4 call' , 1;..". V!4oUo and led -'on Conl,l, on'- �I, 0".,

PO" lUI, 1 76, 1 76_79

'011 pooch.d, .lth oppl...ood'lmohd

rabbit, 205. 209

rool -"'O.lobie, OM ,0ulH4 borw

ou"," 10.. 1 ," (r.poneUI dl b-joldl _lth

In corpocclo at ,.110."" lur'lO NlliOh., 96

"""'- 1 1 2_ 1 ) l or brohtd prime beet 1hcN1 rib, _IIh

00,11C pur..... 25

In Ptroll d. Bllbel ..lth

red .'"- �, I90 lor broiled beet (hftlo.l ond _101 10f'9\I'I ..ilh boby �'" ond hotlltoeJj,h

rOOIl.d, loolIl"9

roou.d gOlllc, 25

pOlotO(CI)

47, 48

Jumbo

olpor�"'I, po"'rOO,ltd Moln.

pori wlnC! glolC!, 238

btlnl, Yulo.on oold, 40 bUller·hled chip., glllltd 10lmhou.. Chcddor, [all, Glrl lomalo c on lommo, and, 258 In c hCllnul ognololl' with fonllno orwl ( tltr, rOOI puru, 82 chipi with Irulfl, dip I-chips and dip-',

1u...s9, 159

Pri CalolMi, 247

tfllllln, 8] Polo RUIouronl, 247

red mIoIllel, .lth a poIrru, rl'oiI cIoI.!, � 9QfUc c�. I-fllh and Chipl-"

mullotd, 2]1

pin. nul 10,1 .llh hanl,.d

motco.pof'I. ("Om, 294 01 ptOll lOptocO _llh Motpeq.., 0,,111'

and 011110 Coolor, 2 1 , 2), I ) S

0110.1.01 Iplnoch, ond 'OIt,O" .0n.Uo, 146 47 bloc� lIullll, ,oo".d 1 .... ltlflodl .ltk

oppl._GOd ",�hd bo(on, tllolud a.IOlon ,ndlo" o"d, :l 1 2 I ) 80rd.IOi l l, 'OQ,I.d 'Ib ,uo!. .lIk gold'n

,hon,•••lIu, pommel Anno, oNt,

In n

I n d ..

)2)

.aU(.' ('�J 'Of Inoll.d b,.oll 01 nol ..I,h .,.110.. com poI,n'o cak... glal.d w'g.'obl.., and .....t gortlc. 192-93 apeo!r.e Bar .of,·.hell ("lob 'Of Ch•• ",ond...kh," 9] 'Of ch.llnul ognololll ...Ith fon'lno and ul'ry roo' pu,h, 82 CMKolo,•• pooch.d.banono k. '"0m "'lIh .. hi,. chocolol...banono crIpe. and, 280.81 cho<o'ol. coh. wllh lid be., Ice cllom

and IOG" ,d ",olnul. 302,.3 '01 (,k', IIOU Ia.agno, 1 16 'Of U••••p-!Cld 'OGII.d MaiM lob.,., ..I,h part.pooch.d fig' ond .oulhd ""'ulord duck fol. 0'01, 1 3 3 g,lblch., 1 0 , 2 1 " - 1 5 '0' heart. a ' palm whh pu,l. of mallow beon. and fI.ld g,..n., 70_71 hollondol.., ..2-43 ho' Cllom. Solly Schm'"'. opp-!. and c,onbe,ry Ituch.n ,.lIh, 3 1 3 malll mUlh,oom, ,oulod. of " Un dlKir: b'ltOII ",I'h cllom.d ......, ....hl'. co,n and, 172-73 mUllord, lpall.d .!..ol. ...Ingl . ..lth b,ol..d lid cobbag. and, 1 6 1 "qulcir:," 228 ..29 lid ,,,In., In "'cou•• 01 IIco'gol, ,.lIh a pu,.. of ......1 CO" OIl, rooll.d .hollo,., ond h.,b .olod, 91-99 ted ...'M ..In.go" 2 1 0 _ 1 1 fo, ,oolt,d guln'o fa...' .n " .pln,tf. d. byoldl ",ItI! pan lu" 1 7 1-79 fa, .aboyan 01 p,orl ,oplo<o ...I,h Mo!pequ, oy" '" and 0"" 0 ("owlot, 23 lor lolmon "chop." ...Ith "I.,y and bloc" l,uHl••• 137 101 .oulhd Allonllc hoUbu' ...Ith .ummer luceolOlh and ,u" I"nl,d onion gloll. 1 ....-..5 ..,o...b",y lo,b.' Ihortcoir:•• ,.llh ......"n.d cr'm. Itolch., 27" " c"nlqulI fa" 73 ...olnul. . 261 ....hlt. clam, ""nouln." ....llh. 25 10' ...hh. ca,n OOnOIOlf1 ...llh lumm., I,ulllll. 13 lou.,.,oul, T',. d. Main. ....llh looll.d co,o...oy .ud winolgllll' and. 2"] loulhd' A,lanllc hoilbul ...lth .umm., luccola.I! and ,u" I(,n" d onion gloll. 1044-45 ("OU'I "w.,. Vidalia and r,d onion conlll. onion ,Ingl. and .In,ga, 10UC•• 2 1 0- 1 1

cod ...lIh cod co'" and po"l.y all '''clam cho...d.,"), U2-0 '01. g,o•• 105 monlol"h 'all ...lth b,al..d odaili. lolilly. and C'p.. '''IUI' and tUI'''). 162-63 .o�oy ,obbog., In loulad. of p,�ln duc!. blloll ...llh cllom.d 1,..., ...hlt, cOIn and mo,.1 mUI",oom ,olln. 172-73 1C01/l0n and ,odh., lalod, Pacific mol ...llh Ir..h .o..b.onl. loy-,.mpl, along. glall, and, 154-55 1C01l0p., 1 5 pon" ool,.d Maln. lumbo. ...llh mall I mu,",oom. and OIPO'OOUI PII'''. 136

324

Indo_

Schmitt, Don, 3-C, 3 1 2 5<hml". Solly. 3-C. 3 1 2 • •olood. purweyon of, 8. 126 ••010llIng., I eo "'QIJI. III InfU90 carlo,. In pkUed 0.,11'" ....lth (ng".h ClKllmbe, "c.opelllnl" and dill. 24 .hollo" lricol'" of 'ICO,got. ,.I,h a W,•• of , CO"OIl. herb .olod. and .,... rOOII'd. 91-99 ...n'lon chop ,.lIh pon"ooll.d bllII.,nlll .quolh ond Inoh.d, 199 lhe,ry .In.ga" I 8 I .hlllo'" mll.h,ooml, In 101l,.. d manU"h loil ....I'h b,oh.d o.talh, .alilly, and dpe•• 161-4] ,hortco!. .., II,owbe"y IOtbet, ...llh ......'.Md c,ime f,akh. laue•• 2704 Ihort rib•• 2 Inal..d prim. bll', wllh '001 "'Q,'obl.. ond .olll••d hoM mo"ow. '18·90 broiling, 116 Ihrlmp; ...lth owocodo .olta• .46. 50 In court boulllon. 50 tnO\,Iu•• 7.. .Impl, .yrllp In c/lrlll.marlnol,d ,olmon ,.llh a con'I! of now.1 o,ono", belliOa cowlo" and pea .hool coull•• 1 ..0 ..... ' In ,hllbalb con'" ...lth no.,1 o,ong... condl.d '.nn,l. and malCo'pon. .a,bet, 270-7 1 I n lolod 0 ' pellt, .ummll lomalOlI ,.hh .In•.rlpe 'omata .albe" 56-51 '''0'', .patt.d. ,.Ingl ...lth b/ol"d ,ed cobbag. and mllllo,d .allce, 1 6 1 IUmmlno Ilqllidi. I I, 220 .Io...·bahd mllingu. ...llh cr'me Anglol" and blll.nw..t chocolol. ("Iolod· 11. lIallon,.), 211, 290-91 Ilaw" OOII.d loblt." 124 .nall., 100, 100 If. 0'.0 ..colgoll 10lt pooch.d qllall 'Ogl ...lth appl.wood· Imohd bacon ,-bocon ond '00''')•

'.4, ta.

135

.albe" maICOlPOll'. Ihllbolb conlii ,.lth nowel a,ono.., candl,d '.nn.l. and, 270-7 1 IIIo",b.",. lha,lco.... with .,."I.n.d Cf'm. f,olch• •ouee. 274 lomoto. lalod 0' pllite Ilimmer 'oma'o.l ...llh ..In,.,lpe. 56-57 ..'III'. ,.lth poach,d peach... 269 "'OIlP and sand",lch" (glm.d 'o,mholl" Ch.dda,. EOlly GI,l lomolo coniomm•• and bliller.',I,d chip.), 255. 251 •OUpl cr,am a' bill.b'''r. 264-65 Cllam a' ,.olnlli. 9, 261 .."Ing 01. 3 1 lawb.on, In dallbl. rib lamb ChoPI ,.llh callolll,t of IlImm" bean I and 'OllmOI,.. 197 "..h. Pacific mal ",llh 1C01l10n and ,odl,h .olod. ,or-,empl, o,ano. glall. and. 1 54·-55

IO)'-tem�. orang. 0 10.., Pocllk mol ,.lth '"Ih .a,beon., 1C01l1on ond 'adllh lOlod, and. 154-55 Spen.ltrl. Angl., 10 .pk.: mI.. In Cot,u Vecchlll ...ith Ipked couol IGlod and gold,n ,al.ln pu'''. 242 011•• 165. 167 Iquob. 2 3 1 , 233 .plnoch: ouowleaf. block 110 ban with ....." poflnlp., .affron.wanllla lauc•• and. 146-47

for chlo,ophytl. 247 lth broll.d ,.d .potted '''01. wlngl ... ("obbag, and• mlllla,d lOU(l. 1 6 1 iqllab: pan.,oo't,d bI.all of, with S,.,.. cho,d. lGul'.d dlXk fol. g'o" and o.,.n· d,led black 'IQ., 174 .011(1. "'qulcir:." 221-29 .plce, II. 2]1. 2]3 IIoff dllulng, 1 1 7 II,ak. ,ooll,d 'ib. ,.lth golden chonl" .I1.., pamm.. Anna, and Bo,d.lal.. 10llce, liS .toe.... 220 ohernOII"1 for. 1 0 chkken, 220, 2.26-27 dllck, 220, 225 lomb. 220. 2204

Iobller, ]2, 124 mlllh,oom, 220, 227 mllll.l. In block lea ban ...llh 1....., ponnlpl, ollowl.ol .plnach, and .aff,on.wanllla ,all". 1046-41 IruHie·'nfUled mUlh,oom, 87, 105 ..ai, 220. 222_23 w.o.,abl., 220. 227 w,nl.on, 220, 226 ,.hlt. vcol. 22] .IIolnlng IIqllldl, 1 1, 220 II,a...b.n(y)(ltl) and Chompagn. 'e"ln,. 275. 217 In cream of bilieberry IOUP wllh "OO"rt cho,loll... 264-65 'Olbe, ,hortcoh' ...lth Iwe.'ened crem• Irolch. lOllce, 274. 276. 277 .lrud,l, pea', ...!th chel'nllt (,.om and pea' chip•• 292-93 IUCCOIOlh, 101llhd Allantlc hohbllt whh N.·".n,.d onion glo,. and ,"mme,. 1044 ... .5

.lIga" 1 1 ·,",f and '"" � hOllltcd mOflUllh 'all with btohed oatoll, ""tity. and dptot). 16U] l,.ell.ond'IOU' .ouce, "qlllcir:," 228-29 I ...utbllod., 95, 220 IOGIf.d. ...lth . appl.wood·.mohd bacon, blolted B,lglan .ndln. and bloc!. ,,"111. loun. 2 1 2 - 1 3 ...."1 pepperl. loou.d. peco,lno TOlCano ....llh 0'"0"10 cOIIII. and, 250 1"'''' po'oto oonololli ",'fh .og. cream. b,own blltl", and p,alcllllto, 8 1 S...I" cho,d pan" ooll,d breol' a' Iquob ...lth .ollt••d dllc" fol. 0'01. ow,n.d,led black flgi. and, 174 In ,olliod. of Pe!'ln dllck. b,.ott wlrh cr'am,d IWIII ",hit. caIn and mOlel mlllh,oom 10lln, 172-73

'rrup': Ilmpl., IH .Impl. Irrup Telilch.,ry peppe'. In c,.am of bill.berry lOUP ...I,h yogllrt cho,loltu, 264-65 ...olnlli. In chocolal. coh, ,.l1h ,.d be.1 k. cr.om and IOOII.d ,.olnul lallC', 302-3

Tal1l...enl. 247

loml., 10. 73, 73

'openod.· In corpocda of y.llowfln 'uno '''"�01". 96 HI�al.. aU.... 66 'aplo<o, .aboron a' pearl, ...lth Malpeqll' 0,.1'''' and 0''''0 co�lo', 2] 10fTogOfl. In h"b .olad. 97 lart, '.mon .oba..on-pln. nlll ...llh hon'r.d mOlCarpone cream. 9, 294 lal1ole: lolmon. wllh ,weel red onion crim. Iralch. ("com.""). 4, 6-7. 1 0 lomala. 64

lal,lng of patoloe. with block 'ruUl... 86-87

'echnlquu. ba.k food. 9, 10. 1 1 T.lllcherry pepPI'. I I I .yrup. I n cr.am of bill.ber,y .01lP ,.lth yagllrt cha,loltes, 264-65 ...hipped B,le d. Meall_ en feuillel6 ...lth boby m�che and. 2]7, 231 l.mPlJ'O boiler ml_, In 10ll'ied COU'I liv.r. Vidalia and red onion conlli. anion ring., and vinegar 101let. 2 1 0- 1 1 lutlc/••• cooUng 1""llictlon. fa', 209 Tit. de Maino wl,h louetl"alll and lool'ed co,awar teed "Inolo'elle, 243. 2.4. thyme 011. 165. 1 66 B.llwelh" falm babr 10mb-lIwe clIlI ten.d ,.lth P,av.n�ol v.ge'oblu, broll.d clpolllni onion., and. 198 lamalo(tI'. In broiled prime be•• Iho,1 ,Ibl ...I,h '001 weg.'able. and .oule,d bon. mOllo"• 188-90

•• grilled 10,,"ho1iUl Chedda" bullet·hled chlpl, and EOlly Girl. 258 cOIlIl•• 56-57 diamond•• 202-] In oa,pacha. ]5 hel,loom. 10rt with HI�oI" oli•• top.nad•• ml.ed field Qlten•• and belli ..lnaIOftll•• 66 po...der. 2 3 1 . 2]3 In ,oolled oul"eo lowl en crepmelle do b10ldl ...lrh pan lu" 171-79 .alod of p.llie .umme" ,.lIh ..In.·,lpe 10mOl0 lOlb,l, 56-57 sallce fat aonolanl. 74 ..lne.,lpe 10mal0 10,bet ...Ith 'omalO lo,tare and bolll all. 57 .e" olio ,0ma10 conlll, lomalo 'orta,• 10mal0 cantil. 64 bllnl ...lth bena,ga dl mugglne and, 40 In b,al.ed beef chee" and Yeol tonglle ...lrh babr lee�1 and honeradllh cream, 1 1 2- 1 3 I n Chelapea'" Bar .01l.lhell crab ".and...lch." 93 In .olad 01 ho,lcoh wct". lomolo 'artare, and chi•• all, 64 con.omm

. ...hh ...."1 l..d 0ftI.0fI In .olmott lortol CI.m. "okhe, 4 10mal0 10rtOl., 64 .olod of horlcot! vert., chi". oil, o�, 64 m.rlpe tomofo IOfbtt -+tt. bo.J 01 ond, 57 tong,,�. 220

v vanillo heo.....oo'led Ilg. ...Itt\ �Ito.tf ....

bn:il.ed br",t of, ..Ith ,-.lIow c_

polMlo coh., glored _.-gctow.., Oftd

"Icmg". 'n c heek- (bloiled beef che.h 0""

I"m OOtlic, 191, 192-93

"col tanv". with boby leek. 0"" ho".,odl,h cream), 1 1 2_13

bn:ihlng, 186 IIoc," 220. 212-23

lorchott ol lole gro., 103, 104

long", ond brof.td bHl CMeh ";Ih

IIIfI" Roq"elort, with F,eMh bullel �I

boby Meh ond hon.tOdl,h CI_

'ell,h, 256-57

I-longue In (h«k·), 1 12-1 )

tripe, cooking InUructlon. 101. 209

v�.lolHe Qamhh

Ilotte", Ice pig', leet

fOl' brol'ed br"" 01 _col ...IIh rcllow

lrullleh), IS, as

(Ofn poIe"lo (Oltl, glored

block. 'GImon "chop,· with CNfy

vegtloblel, ond ....1 OO,lic,

and. 1l7

192-93

block, loulng of polot". with, 86-87

llh fOl' pa""OOUed Ilrlped bou ...

block, whol. looned moulold dlJ(k fole g'o . ...lth opplu ond. 1 1 0 Comololl rI.ollo with .ho"cd ...hll chip., 48, 86-87

honey-.¥ONHo k, Ct_. 284

•• 88

ortkhoh ro..{oll Oftd bo�1e tlnol9lette. 152-53

-.g.lobln .ened ..lth broiled (lpoIUNI Of'Wofl',

gOlnl'h, 2 1 2 - 1 3

Ihyme 0+1, and Pro�"rw;ol, 19a

In heottl 01 polm ...l t h P"'�' o f morrow

blonchl"9, 58

btoM ond fI.ld grttnl, 70-71

blol"d br"ou 01 ...01 with r.11ow cOtn

Inl,,'td m".hroom Ilod., a7

poIenlO (olo.u, I.e" QarU(, and

011, 73 'O"Ct, block., lOOlled Iweelb,eod. with Belgian endi,,�, ond, 2 1 2 - 1 3 ,Io,oge of, 8 5

clMomon,"klo. k. CtIO"', 286-87

wllh .lne" lpe 10mOiO lorbel, 56-57

I",nlp' In broiled b,.on of vcol with yelklw com polento colo.el, gloled veOelobi... ond ,wtel gorllc, 192_93 In blohtd pllme beef lholl ,ib. wllh rool vegetoble, and .oulecd bon, morrow,

l ea-oo

In b,unohe, ISS In "'collte of flcorooll wllh 0 pUlte 01

237. 21a

ortd b,oll.d .holklll, 199 10llU,

·q"lc ...• 221-29

Iloc", 226 •

lruIU,., n

.hlil truIII, 061

in Che,lrwl ognolotli .It.. 1000lw.o oM cele,.,

1001 ,,"II• •2

,lnll.llt4 c,,"ord, with bloc .. 111.1111, lOgout. 14, 1 6 - 1 7 i n potOIO chlpi ..ltk lrultle dIp, 41 PQ'fn4" O" (lhp', )7 celery, 137 in .twle (Ofn ognoloul ..lth ,ummel lrulllll,

..hilt tCOI IIOCk., 223

..Nle ..Inc _!ncoo'. I I I ..hole

'0011", ""IlUlold duc" 1 0k 0'01 ...'Ih

opPtn 0"" !Moc" trulllel, 1 10 ..lne ,.,..rlnod", 190

chop .lth pan·'OOII.d buU"rwl Iqllcnh

COl'O for .olmo" 10rlOle with .....tI ltd

t","ed "egelOble CUll. 201. 20)

T,Ukh4'"., pePi"' Oftd "bot �ht, .Nle (hocolole.boftono Cftpel, 11M!

.,,' olio I.d ..'n, rnorlnodl

venhon

chocolole, 290-01

tuna NI�ohe, COlPOCC!o 01 .,.lIowll", 06

oho 'lWClf" ..eg�lobki

..Iou.. 01 bltt.,....1 ch.ocolOI. ...lth

cr�me Mglo"e and bltterswetl

0"101' cr�me holehe, 4, 6-7. 1 0

.hlpped Ifk de M�.. M ,."..,.•• wllh

'n .01tnOfl ·Chopl· ..llh !Mock lruil". and

.�.

chocolole, I" Itow·boked m,rlng"e with

lJOtilc. '01' lolod 0 1 pelite ."nvncl tamatoc.

W,bc-I. (d. 6' W.be,. KolhtcCf\ 61

\OUlted bone morrow and

.IOC". 220, 227

""We. (denttt), peO"ut bullel, 30a-9

I"n..

(Nol'C)�" 247

In C'lru,·mol"'oll'd loIrnorI wllh . (011"1 1 OtOftOCI, be. co,"*- Oftd 01 no.. PIO ,hool (ou.... 140-41

.hopel for, 202-3

Ir"III, 'ogo"I, 1 6 - 1 7

Irulll"O chIch". 1 7 1 , 209

l or

PII,.e 01 [ngUth PIO .oup ..\th, ond

10f broilIng ,hoff lib" 116

...hlle, oil·lnl",ed c",lold, ...lth block

.u o h o while lruflle all

bHt ke Cttoft'l Oftd, )02-1 .000,00 ""'" 01, 9, 261 "Of", If\IIt..oo4.'�t4 M� ..lth "'0'. o-tcN Oftd botlOrnk o'otl. 91, 1 4 0

rool, 188-90

whhe. 85. ao

while cOIn ognololll with ."mmer, a 3

pool ,..Iht,. 2S6-57

.. with rM lO\ICe, locnll'd, choc.ao.. cok

glo,,,d. 1 9 2-0)

broh.d pllme beef IhOI'1 rib. wllh

opplewood" moked bocon, blolled

"" RoQwfort Irltle ..lth f_h �tf

.'NII com 0Qft0I0t11 ..lth

B.U..."hel 101m boby lomb-II". cui,

dip 101 POIOIO chip., 46, 47, 4a

....... .

"1101' 'Olbet .,tn poached peochu, 269

vlnolg'e'" bo,�oule, PO",'oolled ",Iped boll .. llh ortkho", lo�loll ond, U2 53 bolll, 66 (Olo.or ,ud, loolled, 243

grol"y m",IOld, 'n O"ng.n.1I (lob lOIod ..ilh (1KI.lmb4'I 1.11" "IIee I,UIK', and, 92 vl"'ool, 180, 1 8 1

"tobbo dobbo do· ('GOII,d lib .,"k ...llk

gold," chont",UII, pomtnC:' Anno•

ond IOfd,lohe 10IoKe), I tIl- a3, "5

t,1I0w be,h, I"e be,tll) ,.llow ..0 .. beGn,

In dOl.lWe fib Ion\b chop. ..Ith (oUOulll 01 'UmIN' beGn. and 10llmorr. 197

in .olod 01 globe Qllkho� .. ..lIh Gord,,, he,b. ond Qalpexho, 62

roollit cho,\oIlCl, ""0m of bI\lebt", .oup .lIh, 2t.4 65

Yu�on ooki potato blJ"', 40

lUlU lelUII, lOa 9

.Ol.lu. ·qllk�" 221_29 Ice oho ,,,d ...I"e _lncOo, "Ine,tlp. ,0m010 'O,bel .lth

.weel COltOll, looll.d .hollo". o"d

lomalO lortole and bolll oil,

htlb ,olod, 98-99

.55, 57

.�chlnl, In 100"" guineo 10.1 .."

"1�lIe d, "'0"'1 ..llh pon 171 79

III',

I n d ..

T H O MA S K U L l a becamo rho cti.

Fronch Laundry In Yaunlvlllo, Calli,

and has recolved many culinary Including rho James Board Faun

Call1ornio In 1 996 and Oursrar rho following yoar. The Fronch

beon named tho number·ono 1 by Esquiro, logat Survtty,

Gour T/"

USA Today, Th. Now York

Speclolor.

Kollor opprontlcod 01 lon ' rOSlouronls, Including Tallt. Le Pre Catalan In Ihe Unlto 01

La Rive, La Reservo, and C.

openod Rokel In New York cookbook Is Keller's IIrsl.

S U S I E H I L L • • olCcrci5'

hor tt,

range In almost ov�ry 0'\10 of th writing to restaurant consultln

Own tolovlslon so,lc�s as woll ' producer for olhor notional II '1st

M l e H A l l R U H lMAH I. on awo' wllh a passion for food. Ho Is th,

Making o( a Cho( Mouerlng Hoot InSlltule o( Amorlco and a forthcom,

'flU'),

I I

Ihot

hall

profile. three chof., on. of who

ollor.

Ho IIvos In Clev land Heights, Oh,

D U O R A H J O H n has collo� fOlod on many book proJects, rocelvlno photOGraphic h' Ihe Julio Chlld/lACP and tho Jo

.Jrs from both

us Oeord

Foundation. A froquent contributor to notional magazines, sho enloys 0 porollol commfJrclol corcor from her Son Francisco sludlo.

... . 'IS.H A

D I V I S I O N 0 ' W O a k M J ,.

708 Broodway, Now Yo/.,

www WOtkmonweb r, n

DflJon by ..1 , Prinled ,I) "frY ",. ..l

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