ISSUE 4
Editor in Cheif Mariel Bennett
Creative Director Jordan Romanoff
Contributing Fashion Editors
Holly Alymore | Federica Manca | Fydez Tan
Contributing Editors
Maya | Shaniqua King | Priyanka Kochar | Remmy McCabe Vicky Vaughan | Cindy Voong | Brittany Witkin
Photographers
Mariel Bennett | Emma Burrington | Sarah Kjelleren Jordan Romanoff Special Thanks to Amy, David Biral, Whim, and Caden Moore
Style Tips Basic Pieces Classic Tips Golden Rules DMM Loves DMMusic Caden Moore Summer Playlist
1 3 5 7 23 57 59 63
Style Feadz Fashion Diary White Wash Show Time Location Based Fashion Remmy McCabe In All the World only Two Missoni Through the Ages Style Parisien A Snapshot of Fashion Photography London Fashion Week
9 15 18 19 21 31 33 43 45 53 65
Letter from the Editor Summer is a time for both relaxation and experimentation. In this spirit, for our fourth issue we made two major changes in our creative process. The first was to center the content around one major theme. Although we had originally decided it we would focus on fashion inspired by the art movement California Minimalism, while working on the design and developing the content we decided to focus solely on the subsection: ‘Light and Space’. The subgenre ‘Light and Space’ is characterized by works that are conscious of the process of perception, and try to use this as an aesthetic advantage. These works focus on elements such as light, material, volume, scale, and installations are often built in a way that acknowledges or affects surroundings. We found that these elements had a clear connection to fashion. Subsequently, our theme was then translated into ideas about how a person’s outfit can affect their the world around them, how they can affect how the wearer feels, and vice-versa. With this theme in mind, we became conscious of they ways we perceive the world. We implemented these characteristics into every part of the magazine, from the design, to the articles, and to the garments we chose for styling. Our main editors brought our theme to life in there contributions: in Style Fydez all elements of Light and Space were conveyed into seven looks; Holly’s article Show Time questioned the way clothes are presented and if the location of the presentation affects our perception of the garments; lastly, Federica’s article, written in Italian, focuses on Parisian fashion and is illustrated through images from her life.
Our second change happened when we decided to open our doors to the entire fashion blogging community by accepting open submissions. We were thrilled to see how many people from all around the world took interest in this opportunity and we were overwhelmed by the amount of talent that is out there. After great deliberation we selected seven of the applicants to be featured. Each offering a sense of where they are from, what they are inspired by, and how there location affects their style. As the summer continues you will inevitably develop a selection of pieces and looks that influence you, your attitudes to the world, and at the same time these garments are influenced by where you are and the places you go. Take note of the summer essentials that you acquire. Your wardrobe defines you and your taste, and at the same time documents your journeys, experiences, and feelings.
Priyanka Kochar
Where are you from: India Blog URL: http://www.point-lace.blogspot.com/
Maya
Current Fashion or Style Obsession: My current fashion obsession is my white jacket in crepe by Rustam Chauhan. It’s the perfect stark white piece to take you from day to the night.
Current Fashion or Style Obsession: I love bright colors!
P: Carry a bright poppy colored scarf in chiffon or silk always to prep up your outfit. P: Listen to everything but do what your heart says, stay fit, be happy and lead a happy life!!
Location: USA Website/Blog URL: http://girllovescolor.blogspot.com
Remmy McCabe
Where are you from: United Kingdom What do you do: Blogger Blog URL: http://maisondesfleurs.tumblr.com/ Current Fashion or Style Obsession: I love really simple and classic things! I love ballerina flats, breton striped tops, denim shorts, rounded sunglasses and trench coats!
Shaniqua King
Where are you from: Virgin Islands What do you do: Blogger Blog URL: http://www.chictopia.com/Shaniqua1071 Current Fashion or Style Obsession: Bright colors, lots of stripes, and easy pieces are my current fashion obsession this summer. I have always had a love for color and this season’s hot trend color blocking is right up my alley. I love pairing bright blocks of colors together with classic and effortless pieces to create the perfect summer look. After seeing the Prada Spring/Summer 2011 collection, I have been so addicted to stripes and my closet can’t seem to get enough of it. My final summer obsession would be easy breezy pieces to create the ultimate bohemian look for when spending my vacation days at the beach. Street-style, art and architecture are all forms of fashion inspiration. They are no rules when it comes to fashion.
Brittany Witkin
Cindy Voong
Current Fashion or Style Obsession: I’ve always been consistent when it comes to the fashion loves of my life. A lot of my wardrobe revolves around jackets, from boyfriend blazers to peplum-hem jackets. A well-tailored jacket is so worth the investment. You can spot me a mile away with a military jacket paired back to a soft, silk, uber-femme blouse. The mix of masculine and feminine is my fashion M.O. Outside of that, with summer right around the corner, I’ve got my eye on some white, flared jeans from J. Brand, and I can’t help myself from indulging in the maxi dress trend. I officially drank the Kool-Aid on that one.
Current Fashion or Style Obsession: Color blocking, maxi dresses and wedges have become my favorite for S/S 2011. I love the fresh approach of color on color: red and yellow, blue and purple...gorgeous. Maxi’s are for my ‘lazy days’, get dressed in one minute, what else could beat that? As for wedges: gaining height without the pain is a must!
Where are you from: USA Blog URL: http://www.stellabfashion.com/
For once, be the woman in the room that loves how she looks. We all feed off of one another when it comes to body image, so set the example. Own looking good..
Where are you from: London, UK What do you do: Blogger and I’m a fashionobsessed freelance journalist! I’ve started my blog, Fashions Beauty, just over a year ago. Blog URL: http://www.fashionsbeauty.com
Be prepared to take risks in life; If you’re scared of failure, you’ll never succeed. Oversized is so cool. I always buy tops one or two sizes bigger for that off-duty model look ;) I love layering; it’s a great way of adding textures or colors. Try it with jewelry too, pile on the bangles!
Vicky Vaughan
Where are you from: United Kingdom Blog URL: http://www.ahashakeheartbreaker. com Current Fashion or Style Obsession: The Mary Jane tan leather platforms from Chloe Sevigny’s most recent Opening Ceremony collection. I think it’s actually love. Remember, what goes around comes around. Enjoy the little things in life like small indulgences and moments with people you love. Don’t be afraid to take risks or do things a bit differently. Life’s bland if you never change how you live it.
Style Tips Shopping: If you’re ever in doubt about an item it probably means you don’t love it that much. Spending money on something to collect dust at the back of your wardrobe is a crime that even I have been guilty of! www.fashionsbeauty.com
Have faith in trusty old charity shops; I have found some of my favorites clothes in charity shops! You can pick up such a bargain! www.maisondesfleurs.tumblr.com/ Watch those proportions! If you have volume on top, keep it streamlined on the bottom half of the fashion equation. And vice, versa. www.stellabfashion.com/
01/02
Have lots of fun with color this summer, it’s one the most easiest and inexpensive ways to update your current wardrobe. www.chictopia.com/Shaniqua1071
When it comes to watches, the bigger the better. www.fashionsbeauty.com Mix and match evening and daytime pieces in your daily wardrobe. www.chictopia.com/Shaniqua1071
When shopping, wait five minutes before you buy something. You’ll make better choices. All impulse buys are eventually regretted. www.girllovescolor.blogspot.com
After you have a good foundation of basics, get into the jewelry and accessories. Go for items that make you swoon and are completely original. They do not have to be expensive. The addition of accessories will make a look yours. www.stellabfashion.com/
Basic Pieces Always have go-to wardrobe essentials. For me it’s my Russell and Bromley loafers, a vintage cable knit cardigan, and a vintage black leather biker jacket. www.ahashakeheartbreaker.com
Invest in an amazing coat, like a trench or a Barbour! You can just throw them on and look good! www.maisondesfleurs.tumblr.com
Every girl’s wardrobe must have a tailored white blouse. I Love the sheer ones. www.fashionsbeauty.com
03/04
Black skinny jeans are the ultimate staple; you can wear them with anything! www.maisondesfleurs.tumblr.com Always have a great pair of heels; you never know when you might need them! www.maisondesfleurs.tumblr.com
Classic Tips If you are tired of carrying huge bags that hurt your shoulder try using an A4 portfolio. They are easy to use and are easy on the body. http://www.point-lace.blogspot.com/ Vintage sunglasses are great for when you have tired eyes, they look amazing and are cheap too! http://maisondesfleurs.tumblr.com/ Buy yourself a little something every now and then. You deserve it! http://www.stellabfashion.com/
Leggings and short top combo is only acceptable if you’re exercising! http://www.fashionsbeauty.com Try new shapes, colors, heel heights, etc. You can always return it if it isn’t you. Your personal style will never evolve if you run away in fear of something new and different. http://www.stellabfashion.com/ Never spend more than five minutes getting dressed. http://www.ahashakeheartbreaker.com
Raid your mom’s closet for vintage jewelry. Pair your findings with solid colored dresses to create a statement. http://www.point-lace.blogspot.com/
05/06
Use things lying in the house as accessories. Use safety pins and lots of pendants to create a brooch to spruce up any outfit. http://www.point-lace.blogspot.com/ If you can, invest in designer pieces –they’ll be far better quality, you’ll feel fabulous wearing them and you’ll keep them for life. http://www.ahashakeheartbreaker.com Always take the time to treat yourself, whether it’s to something you’ve been wanting for ages or just time to yourself.
ahashakeheartbreaker.com
Clean your wardrobe out regularly of all the things you don’t wear and know you won’t wear again. You’ll feel amazing afterwards and it’s an easy way to see what you actually own. http://www.ahashakeheartbreaker.com Hang dry whenever you can. If you want your garments to last you for more than one season wash and hang them out to dry. http://www.stellabfashion.com/
Golden Rules Don’t dress to please anyone but yourself! www.maisondesfleurs.tumblr.com
Dress for comfort, don’t dress in the latest must haves if you don’t feel comfortable! www.maisondesfleurs.tumblr.com
Stay true to your individual style. By all means try new things, but don’t wear something if it really isn’t ‘you’ just because a trend demands it. www.ahashakeheartbreaker.com
You wear the clothes, the clothes shouldn’t wear you. www.girllovescolor.blogspot.com
Wear what you feel good in. www.girllovescolor.blogspot.com Always stay true to your style, even if others don’t necessarily like it. www.chictopia.com/Shaniqua1071 Dress for yourself first and have fun with it. Fashion should be fun and not taken too seriously. www.stellabfashion.com Be open to try new things and experiences. 07/08
You don’t have to spend a lot of money to be stylish. www.chictopia.com/Shaniqua1071 Always invest in well-constructed basics. www.stellabfashion.com You should wear clothes that reflect who you are, not who you want to be. www.girllovescolor.blogspot.com Always have a positive outlook on life even though things are not going your way. www.chictopia.com/Shaniqua1071
e l y t S
09/10
n a T z yde
F y b led
y t s s ook
L
z d a e F
When one’s style is confidently expressed, it has the ability to turn heads. Sometimes, style can also transform and light up a place. This is easy to do by opting for catchy yet mellow colors, embellished clothes, strong colors such as red. Structured one color outfits definitely have effects on their surroundings. It is minimalist but with the right garment materials, one’s style will not change. Leather matched with flowy garment materials will easily adapt to one’s tastes. Imagine nude leather shorts, flare skirts and jackets, ballerina inspired and shift dresses and wedges then finishing it off with sharply shaped clutches and bags. Don’t forget to add the sparkle of accessories such as gold and silver. It is a minimalist approach but with grand results.
ABOVE: dress: emilio de la morena; stockings: hyd; wedges: jil sander; sunglasses: prada; OPPOSITE: dress: nina ricci; socks: maria la rosa ribbed socks; wedges: lanvin; bag: dkny; ring: tarina tarantino;headband: topshop;
shoes: chloĂŠ; bag: lanvin; sunglasses: gucci;
11/12
top: sass bide; skirt: chloĂŠ; shoes: alexander wang; bag: antik batik; bracelet: celine;
shorts: kelly bergin; sandles: giuseppe zanotti; bag: azzedine alaia; shawl: river island;
dress: chloĂŠ; lace hosiery: antipast; wedges: acne; bag: alexander mcqueen; headband: deepa gurnani; 13/14
dress: notte by marchesa; shoes: emilio pucci; bag: jessica mcclintock;
FASHION DIARY MONDAY
My Monday Military Moment Jacket: Anthropologie Pants: Express Shoes: BCBG Bag: Goldenbleu Earrings: Low Luv x Erin Wasson Anyone who knows me could tell you I’m obsessed with all things military. Usually I balance out a more masculine edge with something soft or feminine, but with this work look, I went all out. The skinny cargo pants are actually incredibly comfortable. 15/16
TUESDAY
I Love a Good Peplum Jacket: Mike & Chris Bag: Goldenbleu Pants: J. Brand ‘Lovestory’ Pants Tee: Urban Outfitters This one is all about the jacket. Mike & Chris is a name I have come to know and love. This jacket feels like a sweatshirt, but is cut like a trench with a peplum that I can’t get enough of. The look is fitted, cinched in at the waist, and super easy to pull off. I love taking a casual tee that I wear every weekend, throwing it under a sophisticated jacket, add a black pant; it’s so effortless. The less thought when getting ready in the morning, the better.
BRITTANY WITKIN WEDNESDAY
A Mid-Week Pop of Red Courtesy of Tibi Blouse: Tibi Bag: Kooba Shoes: Michael Kors Bangle: vintage I tend to have black as a staple in my wardrobe. I think it’s a retailer thing. That said, there are those times when you need a little color, and this Tibi top has always come to the rescue. The prints from Tibi are consistently some of my favorites, and denim keeps things casual for this weekend look.
THURSDAY
One-Two Punch Jacket: Burberry Dress: Nicole Miller Shoes: Aldo Bag: Bottega Veneta I’m calling this my one-two punch because it is my go-to. I’m talking a classic black dress and this Burberry jacket. I literally cannot go wrong whenever one of these pieces enters the equation. I’m a huge fan of high/low mixing in ensembles and very pro-having an investment (or a few) piece. It makes like easier. Done and done.
FRIDAY
SATURDAY
SUNDAY
Disco Dress For the End of the Work Week
Casual Weekender
Maxi Dress on a Lazy Sunday
Dress: Bizz Princess Jacket: Elie Tahari Bag: Mulberry Pumps: BCBG Paris Here is where I like to have a little fun. A classic black blazer, in this case not fitted and more of a boyfriend jacket, is a must-have. It really goes with anything. The dress on the other hand, with all of the shine, is a no-brainer for cocktails, but I wanted to get more use out of it. Enter: the blazer. It tones it down a bit so I can get a little more mileage. 17/18
Cardigan: Free People Jeans: J Brand ‘Lovestory’ Bag: Matt & Nat Necklace 1: Forever 21 Necklace 2: Madewell Loving this cardi. This look is all about taking two ridiculously basic pieces, and by adding some layered necklaces, all of a sudden it’s a polished look. The bag is a new fashion love of mine as well. Environmentally conscious having use recycled fabrics, and it’s a crossbody. Everyone needs one if only to have their fair share of hands-free fashion moments. So convenient, and on-trend.
Dress: Asos.com Necklace: vintage Bracelet: Asos Cardigan: Michael Stars Clutch: vintage I live in some serious heat, which calls for some seriously lightweight clothing. The maxi dress flows and moves with me during summer. This black strapless little number was an amazing buy from Asos, and it’s beyond versatile. Plus, I can wear it out to dinner, feel like I have pajamas on, and yet look completely pulled together. I live in this dress.
Color is what differentiates one from another. Black or white , blonde or burgundy, it’s the color that the eyes see. Being born and brought up in a colorful country (India), has made my eyes comfortable with all possible pantone shades available. Be it the colorful regional dresses, jewelry, houses to exotic food and people – India is a pop of color. We have different colors for different occasions: red symbolizes the bride, saffron the color of monks, yellow for spring and so on. Pink with mango greens, red with burning orange and navy blue with dirty yellow, color combinations at its best is what you find on the streets. Viewing things internationally, this is the season for colorless fashion, modest fashion. White is the color of the season strong enough to hide the blood below. I am sure most of you are scared of this colorless color. Although I love my whites, I find it a task to keep them white. So this season is about letting go all your inhibitions and take a cue from the recently concluded royal wedding at the Buckingham palace. A stunning white gown for the bride and a flawless masterpiece for the bridesmaid! Textiles and fashion take a cue directly from pharmacy- bandage cloths, band aid; plaster gauzes promise the healing process. Starched and pressed linens and gauzy woven cottons will float around the bodies while bandage like loose texture stretch material will hug the skin in skin colors. The doctor’s coat or the lab coat is also finding a way into the fashionista’s wardrobe. It’s actually healthy to wear white as it is not dyed or treated
by colors and pigments. I guess the surgical white acts as a antiseptic to out of control fashion. Combining them with earthy colors like brick red, dirty blue, mustards etc adds the zing. Its about embracing life, Himalayas, meditation and going back to the roots. Metamorphically we are licking the wounds from the last century, white is an expression of new faith, important to set off other hues and initiate us into another era. FABRIC IN ITS NATURAL FORM.
Show
19/20
w Time
Holly Alymore
Do you prefer presentations or runway shows? Fashion is becoming more and more situational. This could distract from the beauty of the intricately crafted looks or enhance the mood of the collection. Therefore, the right setting is vital. It is now the designer’s role not only to produce striking, wearable clothes; they must also create a fantasy around them. One opportunity to do this is their show. By manipulating the situation the garments are placed in, it is easier to image how they would feel to wear. The more theatrical and the more extravagant, the clearer the vision of the potential experience the clothes offer. The constructed reality becomes the place they belong, pushing boundaries and the imagination. For instance Sonia Rykiel shows are known for smiling, jovial models that joyfully dance their way along the runway, and that carefree happy-go-lucky quality becomes associated with the brand as a whole. It transports the audience to a fantasy land whether they are there in the front row or watching a live stream at home and the theatrical performance creates a desire to be ‘the girl’ in the designers mind. Who hasn’t brought an item of clothing because they’ve seen it on someone they aspire to be like? It may be a celebrity, a blogger, or a catwalk look, but the yearning that one single piece of clothing
can transform you into another person always prevails. The location the clothes are presented in creates a feel about them, allowing the overall brand to shine. Presentations are becoming increasingly popular over runway shows. Givenchy recently showed it’s couture collections in a luxurious Parisian room evoking royalty and indulgence instead of a runway, enhancing Ricardo Tisci’s astonishing, embellished masterpieces. With a stand-still presentation this can be effortlessly admired, but when a show is transformed into a mass production, it’s easier to take in as a whole. Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel has been experimenting with this for years, such as the S/S 2010 collection’s ornate ‘barn’ themed set. It’s impossible to reference runways as extravaganzas without mentioning (possibly) the ultimate showman: Alexander McQueen. Holograms in F/W 2006, spray painting in S/S 1999, a ring of fire in F/W 1998, chess in S/S 2005, dancing models in S/S 2004, the S/S 2010 ‘Platos Atlantis’ theme... the list goes on and on. The showmanship serves almost as a moving magazine, the looks forming the pages and the setting the layout, allowing an impression from the collection to last longer than it’s 10 minutes on the runway.
Location Based Life for me living in the US Virgin Islands wasn’t your typical fashionasta story. Being surrounded with a strong cultural background, lots of lush green land and ocean blue water, anyone would consider this paradise. You would think my wardrobe would be filled with luxurious resort wear and spending lots of time at the beach. But, it was further from the truth, being raised in a background mix with Danish and American influences. It gave me a different sense of fashion insight. I found beauty from the easy and laid back manner of the people, the colorful circus fruits, the beautiful costumes and rhythm of calypso music during the festival parades held every January. All inspired me for having a love for fashion. Experiencing such a diverse way of life developed my progression of style. Always being surrounding with an environment rich in vibrant hues, I always found myself wearing lots of color in my everyday wardrobe. The feeling of color always gave me a sense of happiness and an upbeat mood. Living in a humid climate 365 days out of the year, easy and basic pieces were my go to fashion salvation. After being raised in such a laid back and tropical atmosphere for most of my life, I moved to Connecticut in the fall of 2009, to pursue a bachelor’s degree in Fashion Merchandising in college. I finally founded my style after escape after wearing school uniforms for most of my life, which formed the simplistic of my style. I first started with pairing the classics t-shirt and jeans with a splash of color. But it soon grew to 21/22
d Fashion something more. Finding a new surrounding to live to in and being so close to major cities such as New York City, and Boston, I have found a new breed of effortless, chic and an inspirational style that I never thought would possible before this new journey started for me. The uniqueness, spirit and completely individual street style of people left me breathless. The architecture of the beautiful tall buildings and bright lights of New York, gave me a sense of fashion motivation that I have never have seen before. Being able to see the freedom and fun in how people dress in their everyday life, gave me the ability to have fun with my style, and try unusual things, that I never got to experience before living in the Virgin Islands. Another rewarding experience was being able travel to Boston and staying in Rhode Island was special because I was able to notice the energy and effortless fashionable style of the people, was something worthwhile to me. On the streets of Newbury Street in Boston and the East Side of Providence, I saw the ease and effortlessness of the community that made me enjoy the simplicity of style in such wonderful volumes. Finding style inspiration in different surrounds has changed my style in so many ways. It allowed me to be more open, adventurous and creative, but also stay true to myself. My sense of style is always evolving and if it wasn’t for these things and people that surround my everyday life, I would have never found the beauty and charm of fashion in a totally different light. Fashion is a form of expression. Shaniqua King
23/24
Owner of Whim, Melissa Desautels, creates a unique and sought after collection by hand picking every item that comes into her store. She only selects pieces that fit her vision of bringing a West Coast vibe to the North East. Both her store and its online boutique accurately capture this West Coast feel, making it a failsafe bet when looking for chic and easy items. Whim’s collection is constructed of the best pieces from a carefully selected variety of brands that encompass the store’s vision. Such brands include Current/Elliott, William Rast, Anlo, Hudson, Fluxus, Gypsy 05, Project e, Junk Food, Zooey, Rachel Pally, Scanty, Primp, People’s Liberation, Love Quotes, Deux Lux, Earnest Sewn, T Bags, Foley & Corinna, Lauren Moshi, Torn, Venice 291, Chan Luu, and more.
Whim 62 Church Street, Burlington, Vermont 802.658.6496 http://www.whimboutique.com/ http://whimboutique.blogspot.com http://twitter.com/whimboutique http://www.facebook.com/pages/Whim-Boutique/
DMM LOVES
Whim
top: joie linen tank in navy; skirt: gap;
DMM LOVES 25/26
shirt: 44mm; pants: comune; shoes: mondarer;
27/28
opposite: dress: fluxus ‘lora’ rress in metropolis; hat: mine;
DMM LOVES
above: top: joie ‘jacaranda’ peasant top in caro; shorts: gap;
29/30
DMM LOVES
Remmy McCabe DMM: What were you like as a child? Did your childhood effect your style? Remmy: As a child my style was so ridiculous! I didn’t start to care until I was about 16, I started buying Elle and Vogue, discovered Topshop and started wearing brogues! DMM: How would you describe your personal style? What are your wardrobe essentials? Remmy: I love simple things, you cannot fault a simple outfit. At the moment I am wearing my men’s vintage breton striped top a little too much, I also love a good fit black skinny jean and they will go with everything! My wardrobe essentials are my breton striped top, skinny jeans, barbour jacket, topshop leather loafers, Levi’s cut off denim shorts, A.P.C shirt, satchel, Mulberry necklace and a good pair of black ballet flats. DMM: What are your summer wardrobe essentials? Remmy: My summer essentials are pretty much the same, I don’t like floral/summery prints so I tend to stay basic in the summer, some vintage denim shorts and a baggy t-shirt. DMM: What are your favorite blogs? Remmy: At the moment I absolutely adore Miss little Lime’s (misslittlelime.blogspot.com) blog, I love how she documents everything and her pictures and photography skills are amazing! She also has a tumblr philo-sofia.tumblr.com! I can’t stop reblogging her! I also love La-mignonette 31/32
DMM: what do you think makes a good blog/blogger? I think a good blogger will post a mixture of different things, always communicate with their followers and post personal things! DMM: How do you feel about the rise of the super blogger (like Rummy Neely of Fashion Toast/Elin Kling of Style by Kling/Bryanboy)? Remmy: I think running a blog is a great alternative to breaking into the fashion industry (although it is extremely hard and you have to have something induvidual about you) and I think blogs are good ways to express yourself! DMM: How long have you been blogging for and what got you started? I have been blogging since about October 2008 and I thought it would be something I wouldn’t keep up with but I love it!
(la-mignonette.blogspot.com), her style and clothes are beautiful! My favorite tumblr blog is Ella from Party Tights, (partytights.com) I think Ella was one of the first tumblrs I followed and to this day she still remains my favorite and she has also had great success through her blog which I think she fully deserves!
DMM: How did you become a fashion editor on Tumblr and did you enjoy it? Remmy: Basically someone from the Tumblr 24 that went to NYFW put my blog forward and I got asked by Rich Tong (the Tumblr fashion director) to be a fashion editor! I love being in control of what gets featured in the fashion tag but also it is not to everyone’s tastes so I am glad there are other editors with different styles! DMM: Any future plans for you as a blogger? Remmy: Not really, no. I am just going to keep blogging and see what happens!
33/34
In all the World Only Two Two girls sweetly wander a place where time stands still. A world that becomes hazy and indistinct when they are somnolently lounging or vibrant and colorful when they are energetic and curious. Their environment adapts to their playful inattentiveness. The location is a backdrop to their wardrobe and their outfits are inspired by their moods.
35/36
M: bra top: lf; leggings: sugar lips; hoodie: ever; shoes: nike; bags: both louis vuitton; A: dress: silence & noise; clutch: marc by marc jacobs; shoes: nike; clutch: marc by marc jacobs;
37/38
M: dress: h&m; tank top: t by alexander wang; shoes: jeffrey campbell ‘mariel’ wedges in glitter; bag: dior; Opposite: top: wild fox; A: top: marc by marc jacobs; shorts: juicy couture; cardigan: marc by marc jacobs; shoes: jessica simpson; necklace: marc by marc jacobs;
39/40
M: top: marc by marc jacobs; jeans: red j brand; shoes: marc by marc jacobs; shoes: steven by steve madden A: dress: gap; shoes: model’s own;
M: top: h&m; denim shorts: william rast; shoes: steven by steve madden; A: tank top: marc by marc jacobs; jeans: j brand; blazer: urban outfitters; shoes: jeffrey campbell;
41/42
M: top: marc by marc jacobs; leggings: juicy couture kids; A: top: marc by marc jacobs; leggings: betsey johnson;
M ISSONI
THROUGH THE AGES Maya K
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In 1947, Ottavio “Tai” Missoni along with friend Giorgio Oberweger began a venture into knitwear. The duo used a small workshop with a total of four machines to produce wool track-suits. The track-suits were later used as uniforms for the Italian team at the 1948 Olympics. Missoni married Rosita Jelmini in 1953 and the two set up a small knitwear workshop in their basement, continuing what Ottavio had started six years earlier. Little did they know that their little workshop would later become one of fashion’s biggest labels, known all over the world. Although the beginnings were humble, Missoni grew at a fast pace. In 1960, their dresses began to be featured in fashion magazines. The first Missoni showing was six years later in Milan; the collection was extremely successful and considered groundbreaking in the world of knitwear. After this event, Missoni exploded. The brand was not only featured in magazines, it was on the cover. It spread to the United States, with a boutique opening up inside Bloomingdale’s. This was only the beginning to a booming business. “Even as I have already written about a Missoni dress, it is impossible not to speak again on the great success met by this collection, defined by an authority as one of the most beautiful in Europe. Very original and up-to-date with pieces that create a mosaic of mosaics in their many workings, basing that amount of modern folklore with an exceptional and absolutely new chic” raved journalist Maria Pezzi in Italian Newspaper Il Giorno. The New York Times named Missoni “The New Status Symbol of Italian Design”. “They make the best knitwear in the world” wrote Bernadine Morris in an article about the Missonis. In November of 1972, Women’s Wear Daily placed Missoni among the “the first twenty Fashion Powers of the world.” Missoni received numerous awards during the 1970’s recognizing the brand’s exemplary work and designs. It began to gain fans everywhere;
Ottavio and Rosita Missoni were becoming two of the most important figures in the fashion industry. This was the decade in which they reached the peak of their influence. 1998 was a big year for Missoni, as the brand slowly became integrated into the history of fashion. A book entitled “Missoni” by Mariuccia Casadio was published. A new flagship store opened up in New York (on Madison Avenue, no less). In Seattle, a retrospective exhibition was held celebrating the quarter-century long partnership between Missoni and Nordstrom. Missoni also presented a brand new line for men and women, named M Missoni. Two years later, the Missoni website was launched. Missoni now played a huge role in fashion, being recognized here and there for its contributions to international fashion. Recently, Rosita and Ottavio Missoni have lost interest in their brand, instead wanting to work on other projects. The business was handed over to Angela Missoni in 1996, who is still in the same position today. Missoni will be forever recognized as “giving new fancy and art in the everyday of dress that the public would instantly learn to love.” (Pitti Immagine) The brand has changed the face of knitwear forever, making it come alive with their beautiful colors, patterns, and fabrics. Let us hope that the brand lasts forever; though, if not, it will remain in our hearts.
Style Parisien Federica Manca
Paris et les femmes, o forse dovrei dire ‘certe donne’ sono sinonimo d’eleganza sbarazzina, dell’aver uno stile vestiario che nell’unicità della persona si riconosce, e nel medesimo istante raggruppa l’insieme delle abitanti della Ville Lumière, perché una vera maniera di vestirsi in un modo definito, in questo caso alla parisienne non deve rappresentare certe cose, tali : un qualcosa di sempre uguale, facile da copiare, per tutti. Chanel, marchio di moda da sempre nei desideri
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d’idioti e colti amanti della moda, rappresenta perfettamente la base dello saper vestire alla parigina, prima di Gabrielle Coco Chanel, le donne a Paris non si differenziavano tanto da poter trattarsi di uno stile riconoscibile e di proprietà di una sola città; e non solo dai capi ma anche dalla vita e dal carattere di Coco si puo’ capire la personalità dello stile e degli indumenti e quindi la padronanza necessaria per chi li indossa ; perfetto esempio dunque di eleganza ma carattere ed essenza ribelle ma raffinata, forme semplici nella base e scontri tra bianco e nero, fiori (camelie) e rami, pantaloni e gonna tailleur, respirare seta lungo rue Cambon tra le catene della borsa alla spalla.
Ho parlato di bianco e nero, una fusione di cio’ è lo stile marinaro, le famose blouse a righe che non devono essere sinonimo di « ritorno dalla spiaggia » ma una tenuta urban chic, questo tipo di blouse ricordano anche la comodità, portarla con una gonna semplice nera o un paio di jeans vita alta ne espone il miglior utilizzo. Una cosa che va notata è come gli estremi-opposti, che possono sembrare in contrasto vadano al contrario in perfetta linea, un’esempio è la scelta del taglio di cappelli corti alla Jean Seberg in ‘Au bout de souffle’, c’è anche il fisico androgino con poche forme, ed una sfilza d’atteggiamenti estetici di natura maschile(fumare, pantaloni, cappello,…) ma non va confuso con una donna poco femminile e poco curata, anzi quelle persone che nello stile parigino propongono il lato garçonne devono curare ancor di più l’aspetto al contrario di quelle che invece possono portare la graziosa e classica lunga chioma con frangia sbarazzina alla Jane Birkin, spesso dietro un’aspetto ed una scelta vestimentaria apparentemente semplice c’è un bisogno di attenzione maggiore, un’esempio? portare una camicia bianca maschile con una gonna semplice al ginocchio nera, questo è osare molto più che un lungo e principesco vestito di tulle.
La nudità e la capacità del saper usarla in contrasti differenti, come il poter avere una allure austera, romantica, verginale, ribelle.. l’innata classe del portare scollature, trasparenze,... tutto cio’ proviene anche dalla cultura e l’arte che si respira in Europa, soprattutto pitture e sculture dove il nudo è protagonista, e crea dunque inconsciamente un’approccio senza tabù verso il nostro corpo, cio’ non è altro che un piccolo esempio di come l’arte ha la sua parte(molto importante) nella maniera di porsi socialmente ed il punto principale vale a dire la moda ; tornando al discorso del nudo, di certo ha la sua parte la libertà sessuale che si respira a Paris e che le donne non nascondono. Al pensiero della moda e della città, qualche parola scomposta : classico tailleur, Voltaire, gioielli vintage e le perle lungo il corpo, camicie: dalla classica e semplice alla raffinata ed elaborata, pellicce, maglioni ed accessori di lana lavorati in maniera artigianale, danza classica, velluto, cardigan, gonne e pantaloni a taglia alta, foulard hermes, mouton retournè, blu pois, broderies et dentelles,I tetti all’alba, lo zucchero, Colette et les chats, chiffon, le calzemaglie che annusano il cotone, la vasca da bagno, ménage à trois,…
Parisian Style PHOTOGRAPHS: Kérim Berkane Phosphoros
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who cares what you wear when you’re in love.
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A Snapshot of Fashion Photography Vicky Vaughan
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Fashion is an incredibly superficial industry. I’ve come to the conclusion that when it comes to fashion, appearance is the only thing that matters. In other words, the pressure to be flawlessly dressed and/or have legs as long as the M6 motorway is overwhelming. Amongst the legs as thin as toothpicks are the frozen facades and bleak idiosyncrasies - god forbid anyone ever smiles while in front of the camera - giving the overall impression that the model in the spotlight may be questioning their own will to live, rather than drawing attention to the latest must-have. However, if you look past the advertisements, editorials and shoots for the next bag, lipstick, or designer wardrobe you really can’t live without, you’ll find the artificiality grounded by inspirational photography that undeniably elbows the shallowness into the proverbial deep-end.
Photography within the fashion industry needs to tread the thin line between portraiture and what is ultimately making the clothes look truly lust-worthy. William Klein, Irving Penn, David Bailey and Mario Testino (some of the greatest fashion photographers) have all - and might I add, what appears rather effortlessly - mastered both, and in doing so have created photographs that defined their time (and are still remembered to this day) just as much as any film, book or painting of their eras. In the nineties, the late Corrine Day worked closely with Kate Moss and in 1993, produced bold photographs of Moss wearing nothing more
than a revealing vest top and underwear in her own empty, London flat; ‘Heroin Chic’ was born. To this very day, these images have been regarded as a defining moment of the nineties, with the severe lack of the accustomed glamour usually found in the pages of Vogue (Kate would have looked right at home in ‘Trainspotting’), they were regarded as the ‘antithesis of fashion photography’, making the stale shoulder-pads, leg-warmers and parachute pants of the eighties a thing of the past; fashion was now young again. Day had single-handedly breathed new life into the industry - a feat that all fashion photographers aspire to every day.
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Of course, the difference between portraiture and fashion photography is whether the center of attention is on the model or the clothes. To this day, as I devour my ever-expanding collection of fashion magazines, flicking through the pages I’m still always shocked to find topless models casually strewn across the page. Was there something I missed? Did she just happen to lose her perfectly on-trend, designer top? Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott caused uproar with their naked shoot of Beth Ditto on the launch of Love magazine, although part of me wonders if it was the fact she was on show in the nude, or the fact she didn’t conform to the usual supermodel ideal of weighing no more than a stick-insect. Often the advertisements are more ill-mannered than the editorials. Tom Ford always seems to be one of the main offenders, with models seductively holding perfume bottles between their thighs and his most recent, featuring a lathered-up couple frolicking in a steamy shower scene, a page I unsuspectingly came across while half-asleep and eating my breakfast the other morning, something I could have happily not seeing before 8am. When does fashion photography as an art become borderline indecent? Of course, the editors and photographers of magazines last intentions are to ward off readers forever. After all, fashion has always been about exploring new ideas and pushing boundaries, but advertising revenue is essential for the production and function of any magazine, and it seems that sometimes this calls for a little bit of nudity. However, with anything there are exceptions, and the majority of fashion photography (advertisements included) is the perfect visual representation of the obsessions and trends at any
given time. More often than not, it comes down to celebrities; actresses and ‘musicians’ (although I use the term loosely) are prevalent on magazine covers and featured in advertising campaigns the world over, because they simply attract more attention than unheard-of models. Obviously in the past there have been famous models, going back to the likes of Twiggy in the sixties, and in more recent years women such as Kate Moss, Lara Stone and Freja Beha Erichsen, but for all the nameless eighteen-year-olds that have yet to be recognised and land their big break, they must turn themselves into the sought-after status of celebrity. Whether it’s a magazine cover or editorial, it’s always interesting to see how the photographer will reflect that fine line: the balance of the model, their appearance and personality, the attention paid to the details of clothes (albeit more often than not, the lack of) and accessories. In other words, the depth behind the superficiality. Even if along with the brazen mannerisms and waif-like models, it may only be an illusion.
40 W I N It’s
KS
The Trip
Jordan Romanoff reviews the duo’s new album 57/58
40 Winks are not new to the jazzy hip-hop scene. The group is made up of production team Padmo and Weedy. In 2002, they released their first demo, and have since gone on to four albums. The Antwerp natives have a distinct natural feel to their sample based music. Perhaps the most recurring phrase that one finds while researching the group is no hay banda or, there is no band. The duo has an uncanny ability to weave together samples so tightly that there is no telling where one ends and another begins. This style is in full effect in their latest release on German label Project: Mooncircle entitled Its the Trip. Aside from the occasional cut up vocal snippet, the hint of a record being scratched, and the sparse but obligatory obscure speech samples, the album presents an entirely analog sound. The sound gives a real reason behind the name of 40 Winks. In common speech, the term is used to describe refreshing sleep done anywhere but a bed, and refreshed is just how I felt after listening to their album. Removing my headphones felt like waking from a deeply meditative sleep, as if I was coming back up into the world, ready to attack life anew. This element wildly separates the group from many of their fellow percussion-driven instrumental hip-hop producers. There is never that jarring, grating feeling to their songs. The result is a kind of peaceful transcendence, as if the makers of this music hold the key to some ultimate form of relaxation, and are able to distribute it only aurally. This great strength is perhaps the albums pitfall as well. There is nothing to really grab hold to. The listener seems to be confronted with a perfectly smooth monolith, something that can be admired and appreciated, but never truly felt. When I found myself grasping for any song to really dig into, the music seemed to slide through my fingers, as if I was reaching out to connect with the shimmering vapor of some untouchable enlightened being. In confused frustration I snatched at it, but always found that while it
simply continued to smile back at me unmoving, it evaded my every move. The title is quite fitting for the album. Its the trip, the experience of listening in full, rather than any of the parts that are important here. Perhaps this is why I find the interludes to be the most interesting elements of the album. They are the lone cracks in the music’s otherwise impenetrable finish. The final interlude, Vocal Play, demonstrates this best. Out of this decidedly organic sonic force comes the pitch bending vocal samples that one would expect to hear coming from the likes of Afrojack, all set into the context of 40 Winks percussion. For once, its a bit of fun that is enjoyable on a surface level. To be clear, I’m not saying that 40 Winks should do away with the brilliantly crafted bliss of the record. Perhaps what I mean is that it would be nice to have the music take a step back every once in a while and not take itself quite so seriously.
Official album art: Project Mooncircle
C R
DEN DI
T S P
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TY S
MO R E F CE
H L AKE R DIO V HE YG KY H ERAT R S T R NN U R US F UCK
DMM: What names do you make music under? CM: Currently I make music under the name LAKE RADIO and me and my friends have a band called Heavy Ghost. In the past I have released music under a bunch of names like The Sky Operator, Radioface, and Tyrannosaurus Fuck. There are more out there, though but they are secret. DMM: How did you get started making music? CM: I began playing guitar when I was 13. I took lessons on and off for a few years. They weren’t formal lessons or anything, it was more like “teach me how to play this song by The Who”. In retrospect, I wish I would have focused on learning scales and notes than learning the riffs to classic rock songs. During that time, I was really into writing songs on guitar and writing lyrics to go along with them. I actually set out to write a whole Rock Opera when I was 15. It was really, really bad. I have the lyrics somewhere in an old notebook and they are pretty embarrassing. I continued playing guitar and writing bad songs until I was 16 when I got autoimmune induced arthritis from a medicine I was taking. I got really sick and basically couldn’t walk or do anything for 7 months. It really sucked, but since I couldn’t play guitar, I discovered that I could make songs on my laptop. I started making horrible mashups and MIDI based songs in Acid Pro. That’s how I started making electronic music. DMM: How long have you been doing it? CM: I have been making music for 6 years and making electronic music for 4 years. It feels like it has been longer. I am pretty much self taught when it comes to electronic music. DMM: What are your biggest influences? CM: I am hugely inspired by what I call “unintentional” music. Unintentional music is, for example, a short melody at the beginning of a
children’s VHS tape, or a synth drone at the end of an old documentary – things that wouldn’t be thought of twice unless it was stretched out in the context of a song. That is why I sample a lot of unintentional music, stuff from cassette tapes, VHS tapes and novelty records. All of this sounds pretentious, I know, but using unintentional music it is more than sampling to me, you can also create something from scratch that sounds unintentional. Boards of Canada are masters at that. All their stuff sounds so worn even when they are creating something from scratch. DMM: Do you have a favorite song, album or artist? CM: The closest thing I have to a favorite song is All I Wanna Do by The Beach Boys. It’s a Mike Love track and was recorded without Brian Wilson. It is somewhat of an anomaly, because it is unlike everything else on the album Sunflower, which is one of the later Beach Boy’s album that no one seems to care about. It is beautifully recorded, there is this echo on the vocals that doesn’t quite sync up with the rest of the song, but somehow it totally works and gives the whole song a dreamy vibe. On the surface, it seems like a love song, where the singer is showing his devotion for a girl, but they can also be interpreted as something a crazy person would scribble in a notebook before an act of desperation. To me, it is a near perfect song. I love it. My favorite album is probably Loveless by My Bloody Valentine. That album works on so many levels – you can blast it as loud as you can and it will sound amazing, or you can put it on very low and fall asleep to it. The environment you hear it in changes the experience of the album. The first time I heard it, I absolutely hated it, probably because my brain couldn’t comprehend it because it was so different than anything I had ever heard. With each listen, I love it more and more.
Summer Playlist Song:
Artist:
The Ballad (Koreless Remix)
New Look
Morning Mountain
Essáy
Porteils
LOL Boys
Life Magazine (Delorean Remix)
Cold Cave
In The Water (Jamie Blanco Remix) Battle For Middle You Raindance (Trusty Remix)
Julio Bashmore Dryman Sound & Side9000
Polyhurt
Com Truise
All to Myself
Pinemarten
∆∆∆
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Beat Connection
Selva Oscura
A Girl in
The City of Fashion
London is one of the fashion capitals in the world, also known for its infamous weather, the Royal family, and a nice English breakfast tea. Everyone must have a different image of London, but one thing is for sure, you can’t deny the fact that fashion plays a huge part in this image. It’s evitable that a girl (women actually, but who cares) like me has taken a liking to the fabulous styles roaming the streets, especially during fashion week. London fashion week isn’t simply a week of fashion shows. Somerset House in London is transformed into a show space full of diamonds – everyone sparkles, even if it’s raining. Only the photographers will refuse shelter and stay put at the entrance, getting ready to fire away the shots. The way they look at you as you walk through the entrance, trying to spot your press pass, is a sight that amuses me every time. Street style at London fashion week feels like window shopping at Selfridges; Mulberry in one corner, Balenciaga in the other – all look but no touch! Some say it is easy to differentiate the professional journalists from the bloggers by what they’re wearing. The pros tend to dress more demure, with clean lines and comfortable clothing. Yet, the bloggers will opt for dramatic, playful, and look-at-me styles. This definitely makes waiting for shows to start a lot more interesting. My usual caffeine fix (tea of course) turns into style spotting. Your surroundings sure will have an effect on your style. Living in London, has made me more style conscious. A friend once asked me why I don’t wear trainers; it is a question I had to ask myself. I actually couldn’t remember the last time I wore trainers. Obviously, there was a point where I owned a few pairs. But it was slowly phased out of my life without me even realising! I guess I subconsciously associated trainers with being too casual. Or perhaps it has something to do with being a city girl? You’ll see a mixture of styles parading the streets; from rock chic to romantic English, minimalism to colour blocking. 65/66
The street becomes a catwalk show. My style is constantly changing; in fact, I don’t stick to just one style. How can I when inspiration is seen everywhere? The city has to be the best place for inspiration; stylish girls and guys. It’s natural for people to have a misconception of what style is ‘me’. I’ve been known as the girlie girl since I was a child. Wearing dresses most of the time, I had my dead-straight (thick) hair at waist-length. It was hard to prevent the kids from calling me Barbie, my name didn’t help either! As I’ve got older, I’ve not only gotten over the Barbie jokes, I’ve also become more comfortable with what I wear. I had the fashion police on my case a lot in my early dress-up days. For me, comfortably clothing is top of the list. I haven’t worn jeans for the past year or so. Purely because, as Joey from Friends puts it: “Jeans are no giving”. Sometimes I feel as though I’m more suited to the LA style; laid-back, casual cool. The sun in LA feels more glamorous too (sorry I’m British, had to comment on the weather). As the smell of rain outside fills the air, I anticipate with excitement the return of London fashion week in September. Another week of tea and another week of British fashion at its best.
Cindy Voong
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