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GASTRO T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A WA R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
T H E M A G A Z I N E F R O M T H E A W A R D W I N N I N G P U B A N D R E S TA U R A N T G R O U P
GOURMET GUERRILLAS Why street food is starting a kitchen revolution in the UK PAGE 49
CENTENARY CUISINE
INTRODUCIN
G
TEN top celeb chef s in Kent, Sussex & Surrey PAGE 81
The WI celebrates 100 years fighting the good grub fight PAGE 71
Maritime meals Set sail with P&O Cruises for an epicurean escape at sea PAGE 54
We meet...
ISSUE 11 WINTER 2015 W&H_Iss11_Winter15_Cover.indd 1
LORRAINE PASCALE How the TV cook has put a fresh spin on healthy eating
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Season's Greetings from Rencraft
Designers and makers of handmade kitchens
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Please call for a brochure or visit our showrooms Unit 9, Chart Farm, Seal Chart Sevenoaks, Kent TN 15 OES Tel 01732 762682
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81 Calverley Road Tunbridge Wells, KentTNl 2UY Tel: 01892 520730
www.rencraft.co.uk
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GASTROWELCOME
What’ll it be, then? W
ow…where have the last three months gone! We’ve had an exciting and busy time lately; we’ve finished all the beer and music festivals for the year and we had the grand opening of our eighth site, The Blue Ball in Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey. The pub looks amazing, and you’d never believe it had been closed for over two years. It has put us through our paces since the doors opened! Clearly, the great and the good of Walton-on-theHill have taken the pub back into their hearts. Thank you all for your support. Also, you have to watch this space, as we have our eye on another site – fingers crossed we’ll be telling all in the New Year. We have lots of pictures of The Blue Ball on page 32, while our new manager is featured in this edition as well, talking about his favourite dish, moules and frites. Despite the weather being very wet, it hasn’t dampened our spirits through the summer months. Our new smokehouse is producing some mouth-watering dishes and has proven a real success and great addition to the menu at The Little Brown Jug. The chefs are also sending out some cracking smoked foods to the sister pubs, so all can share the goodies on offer. We interview the gorgeous model and TV cook Lorraine Pascale (don’t tell Mrs W&H, but I do fancy her!) about some of her favourite dishes, and also my other food heroes, the wonderful ladies of the WI. We have some great features for this edition, including some essential cooking tips on page 58, what wines to pair with what dishes over the festive period and some alternative Christmas dishes on page 68. As I’m writing this, the sun is shining and there’s a clear blue sky for once, but I have to mention Christmas! Get in early for Christmas and New Year parties and check out our set menus online – I’m
W&H_Iss11_Winter15_Welcome.indd 2
sure there will be plenty of dishes to take your fancy. And don’t forget Burns Night in January, a great evening to lift your sprits after the post-Christmas blues. If you’re uber organised and already thinking of what to buy your loved ones, we have a feature in the magazine that may help…or, of course, you can always treat them with one of our W&H gift cards. I hope you enjoy our winter edition of Gastro. I’m off to the pub! Cheers, Brian Keeley Whiting MD
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49TISH BRI STREET FOOD
Revolution’s in the air all over the United Kingdom
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43
LORRAINE PASCALE
LONG MAN BREWERY
This TV cook is putting her own twist on healthy eating
unch
Local boys are making good beer in the heart of Sussex
09 FRONT OF HOUSE Catch up on all the latest updates and news stories
40 MY FAVOURITE DISH Try your hand at this top pick from the W&H menu
58 W&H COOKING GUIDE Tricks and techniques that will help you in your kitchen
10 DISCOVER W&H Introducing our award-winning pubs and restaurants.
47 FOODIE FACTSHEET Tantalising trivia to see you through the festive season
60 FLAVOURS OF THE MONTHS Fresh tips and produce for you to savour this winter 63 WINE PAIRINGS Find out the best ways to create heavenly matches
14 FOOD FOR THOUGHT The season’s best culinary products and experiences 17 W&H EVENTS Key dates to remember over the coming months 27 MEET THE YOUNG GUNS Say hello to the apprentices who are cooking up a storm 32 SOCIAL SNAPSHOTS The great and the good turn up for our latest pub launch
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54 MARITIME MEALS Join us on a celebrity food cruise through the Atlantic 68 GASTRO AT HOME Here’s a different spin on a traditional Christmas lunch
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The Gastro team Editor Frederick Latty flatty@markerstudy.com
86
Design and Production Manager Lee Smith lsmith8@markerstudy.com Graphic Designer Emma Prentice eprentice@markerstudy.com
EVERY DAY TOGETHER Brighton couple ties knot in classic Stanmer House style
81
LOCAL CELEBRITY CHEFS
It’s not just produce that’s well-known where we live
Publishing Design Manager Xela Ruy xruy@markerstudy.com Production Co-ordinator Lauren Chalmers-Stevens lchalmers-stevens@markerstudy.com Account Manager Anna Hawkins ahawkins@markerstudy.com Editorial Director Richard Moore rmoore@markerstudy.com Commercial Director Nick Moore nmoore@markerstudy.com
35
Contributors:
Cover image: Myles New Phil Glover Craig Matthews Sarah Bond Sam Yardley Jason Alden Zara Price Jonny Gibson Michael McHugh Pete Sheppard
WELLS ON A PLATE
Take a trip to the royal spa town of Tunbridge Wells
ONE MEDIA AND CREATIVE UK LTD 16 Lonsdale Gardens, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 1NU 01892 779 650 • www.one-media.co
89 TOOLS OF THE TRADE Essential gastronomic apps to help you cook like a pro 92 GOURMET GADGETS Present ideas for the whole family come December 25
Whiting & Hammond Gastro Magazine is owned by Whiting & Hammond Ltd and published/distributed by One Media and Creative UK Ltd. All rights reserved. The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the owner or publisher. All prices are correct at the time of going to print. Neither the publisher nor the owner can accept responsibility for any errors or omissions relating to advertising or editorial. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written consent from the publisher. No responsibility is taken for unsolicited materials or the return of these materials whilst in transit.
71 RAISING AGENTS Why the WI is celebrating in style this year 77 FARMERS’ MARKETS We explore the delights of some terrific stalls in Lewes 78 YULETIDE MENUS Have yourself a merry little Christmas at a W&H venue
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98 CONTACT DETAILS All the names and numbers you’ll need to get in touch
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Olivia now thinks the hardest part of making the perfect fondant is taking the perfect photo.
Create absolute fondant perfection every time w ith Lakel and's exclusi ve Fail-Safe Fondant Dessert Kit. See how easy Olivia found it at lakeland.co.uk/olivia Your local Tun bri dge Wells store 7-9 Monson Road T N I I LS Tel: 0 1892 529 699
LAKELAND online I mobile I in store
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GASTRONEWS
FRONT OF HOUSE
Our round-up of the latest happenings from the world of BURN, BABY, BURN
January 25 sees the annual event of Burns Night brought to life at the Whiting & Hammond pubs across Kent, Sussex and Surrey. Each venue has its own offerings, but you can expect to be entertained by pipers galore, taste some wonderful haggis and traditional Scottish fare and perhaps even get stuck into some whiskey sampling. Contact your nearest pub for further details. www.whitingandhammond.co.uk/events
WINNING STREAK
For the second year in a row, Whiting & Hammond has been named Best Small Group Pubs and Bars Employer in the acclaimed Best Employers in Hospitality Awards 2015. The prestigious industry awards were held at Lancaster London, and the award was collected by MD Brian Whiting and HR assistant Lisa Mordan. The Farm @ Friday Street in Eastbourne was also Highly Commended in the recent Tourism South East Beautiful South Awards for Tourism Pub of the Year. www.bestemployersinhospitality.com
PRIVATE DINING The Mark Cross in East Sussex ran an in-house competition for those filling in feedback forms. The lucky winners were Mr and Mrs Lea, who won a dinner for six, cooked in the comfort of their own home by the group’s executive chef, James Palmer-Rosser and comprising a delicious six-course tasting menu with wines matched to each course. www.themarkcross.co.uk
BBQ BASH
The Little Brown Jug in Chiddingstone Causeway was proud to open up its marvellous new smokehouse this summer, which offered a delicious barbecue menu to visitors in the garden, with delights coming fresh from the smoker. www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk
To keep up to date with the latest W&H news, visit www.whitingandhammond.co.uk f Like us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/whitingandhammond t Follow us on Twitter @Whiting_Hammond
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WINTER’15 | 09 20/10/2015 11:51
GASTRO OUR PUBS
Discover Introducing our award-winning pubs and restaurants… THE BLUE BALL Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey The latest addition to the W&H family is a little further afield than our usual heartland, but we were keen to spread our wings and expand into Surrey. The Blue Ball was the perfect choice for an eighth pub; having been closed for more than two years, it was in a sad old way, but we couldn’t wait to get it up and running once more. Working closely alongside Star Pubs, we brought the site back to life with an extension, a top-of-the-range kitchen on the first floor and three magnificent huts in the garden, which are also available at The Little Brown Jug and The Kings Head, for alfresco dining all year around. A combined budget of £750,000 enabled us to reopen the doors in August 2015, carrying forward the true Whiting & Hammond style and ethos of providing fresh, locally sourced produce and a top selection of ales in the pub’s food and drink offering. So, what are you waiting for? Book a table, pull up a chair and enjoy some W&H hospitality at The Blue Ball – a great place to meet, eat and drink in a relaxed, informal, but well-run setting. www.theblueball.co.uk ä www.facebook.com/ TheBlueBallTadworth å @TheBlueBall_
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THE CHASER INN Shipbourne, Kent www.thechaser.co.uk
ä www.facebook.com/ TheChaserInn å @thechaserinn
THE LITTLE BROWN JUG Chiddingstone Causeway, Kent www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk ä www.facebook.com/ littlebrown.jug.52 å @LittleBrownJug1
THE MARK CROSS INN Mark Cross, East Sussex www.themarkcross.co.uk ä www.facebook.com/TheMarkCross å @TheMarkCross
THE FARM @ FRIDAY STREET Eastbourne, East Sussex www.farmfridaystreet.com ä www.facebook.com/farm. fridaystreet å @farmfridayst
STANMER HOUSE Brighton, East Sussex www.stanmerhouse.co.uk ä www.facebook.com/StanmerHouse å @StanmerHouse
THE CRICKETERS INN Meopham, Kent www.thecricketersinn.co.uk ä www.facebook.com/cricketers.inn å @Cricketers_Inn
THE KINGS HEAD Bessels Green, Kent www.kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk ä www.facebook.com/kingsheadbg å @Kings_Head_BG
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•
doNES lJRITAIN creative kitchen solutions
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SHOWROOM ON TWO FLOORS
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www.jonesbritain.co.uk
Tel:
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01435 866 435
the home specialists asscxiation
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APPROVED
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GASTROGRUB GUIDE
Food for
thought
Six of the best culinary products and experiences to look forward to over the coming months…
The gear
The aircraft R.A.F MK1 practice cluster bomb is a breath-taking, one-of-a-kind drinks cabinet. Standing at more than eight feet tall and weighing in at over 600 pounds, this mirror polished gem has a distinctively authentic Deco aesthetic and is steeped in history. Gleaming aluminium and steel covers a stunningly crafted interior, while the potent fusion of industrial heritage and high-end master craftsmanship makes the £60,500 price tag worth each and every penny. www.touchedinteriors.co.uk
The course
The trip
If you’ve always wanted to experience a wider taste of the UK and Europe, Back-Roads Touring specialises in small groups and tailor-made journeys. Their gastronomic experiences allow you to enjoy authentic, locally sourced cuisine, dine at iconic restaurants and indulge in food and wine tastings with local producers. Winter tours are priced from £965 per person and include Ireland: The Emerald Isle, Austria: A Winter Wonderland and Bavaria and the Romantic Back-Road. www.backroadstouring.com
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For a cookery school like no other, why not pay a visit to Four Gables Food Academy? The vibrant foodie hub is nestled in the sleepy countryside of Ashtead, Surrey and set on chef patron David Gillott’s smallholding. Here, a high-tech, professional kitchen provides the ideal backdrop for a range of absorbing courses, such as Fabulous Fish, Brilliant Baking and Dinner Party Delights. All courses cost £130 and can be booked at www.fourgablesfoodacademy.com
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The accessory This stylish cutlery wall clock is the ideal item to add the finishing touches to any newly decorated kitchen. Instead of displaying the hours of the day on the clock face, each hour is marked by either a fork or a spoon, while the hour hand is a miniature fork and a knife acts as the minute hand. Priced at £16.99, it looks brilliant and makes a great present for budding chefs. www.thegiftoasis.com
The book Celebrity chef James Martin is back with more than 70 recipes to satisfy your sweet tooth. Sweet is packed with contemporary treats and desserts, from French lemon cake, chocolate tart and baked apple charlotte, to walnut macaroon layer gateau with coffee cream. Whether you’re in the mood for a simple bake or a showstopping finale to your Christmas dinner, this stunning selection is out now and can be yours for £15 from www.waterstones.com
The market Head to Penshurst Place on Saturday December 5 for a Christmas farmers’ market that will get you in the festive spirit. Local meats and cheeses will be on offer, as well as decorations for the big day, plus you can order your roasting joints and collect them nearer the time. The market runs from 9.30am to 12pm and is the perfect opportunity to load up on gourmet gifts for the whole family. www.penshurstplace.com
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GASTROEVENTS
Events
by
O O
O O O
DOGGY BRUNCH SATURDAY November 28 FESTIVE FOREST POPUP CHRISTMAS EXPERIENCE November 23 to January 3 CHRISTMAS PARTIES December 1 to 24 CHRISTMAS DAY December 25 NEW YEAR’S EVE December 31 NATIONAL SOUP MONTH January 1 to 31
O O
O O
O O O O
O O O O
O O O O O
FARMHOUSE BREAKFAST WEEK January 24 to 30 BURNS NIGHT January 25
THE BLUE BALL Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey
O O
THE KINGS HEAD Bessels Green, Kent
PHEASANT WEEK November 16 to 22
STANMER HOUSE Brighton, East Sussex
O
THE CRICKETERS INN Meopham, Kent
O
THE FARM @ FRIDAY STREET Eastbourne, East Sussex
THE MARK CROSS INN Mark Cross, East Sussex
O
THE LITTLE BROWN JUG Chiddingstone Causeway, Kent
BRITISH SAUSAGE WEEK November 2 to 8
THE CHASER INN Shipbourne, Kent
EVENTd
RESTAURANTSd
See what’s on at a glance at all of our venues
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O O
O O
O O O
O O O
O O O O
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O O
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O O
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20/10/2015 11:41
I.A.Harris&SonLtd Wholesale Fruit & Vegetable Suppliers MAKERS AND SUPPLIERS OF TRADITIONAL QUALITY CANDLES
Over 25 years of supplying quality fruit and vegetables to the catering industry, our service continues with a strong focus on customer satisfaction. Offices are 24 hour operated and deliveries are 6 days a week.
www.iaharris.co.uk Tel: 020 7622 7176 Fax: 020 7622 7687
01252 851726 • candles@fentonchandler.co.uk www.fentonchandler.co. uk
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GASTRO LORRAINE PASCALE
Lorraine Pascale...
A MODEL COOK Photography by Myles New
Since breaking out with her debut book and TV series in 2011, former model Lorraine Pascale has become something of a poster girl for healthy eating. We chat exclusively to the celebrity cook about her latest project and why creating delicious dishes from scratch at home needn’t be a chore…
I
t takes a dash of courage and a dollop of drive to completely reinvent yourself; particularly when you’re posing for Sports Illustrated and brushing shoulders with the likes of Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell in the midst of a flourishing modelling career. But that’s exactly what Lorraine Pascale did when she decided to ditch the catwalk glamour of Paris, New York and Milan for the art of gastronomy in London. Indeed, before becoming the household name she is today, the now 42-year-old celebrity cook first cut her culinary teeth at Leiths School of Food and Wine and The University of West London. Embarking on a year-long diploma and subsequent degree, she quickly fell in love with food and drink, immersing herself in everything from microbiology, to strategic hospitality management and patisserie. “It was mainly going to Leiths and The University of West London that got me really passionate about it. It was amazing and so much fun learning all that stuff. It was great to finally find something that I really enjoyed doing and that I could carry on doing and get better and better at.” Lorraine was born in Hackney, East London and given up for adoption at birth, when she went into foster care and was raised by adoptive parents Audrey and Roger Woodward in Buckinghamshire. But in spite of a turbulent upbringing, a passion for good food was always at its heart.
“My dad is a fantastic cook and makes delicious Italian food. He inspired me to cook and my mum would cook delicious food as well; I’ve always eaten a lot and used to be called ‘hollow legs.’” Following her foster parents’ divorce and another stint in the social care system, Lorraine won a charity funded scholarship to a boarding school in North Devon, before leaving home for Australia to begin her modelling career. A further six years living in New York saw her marry Polish musician Count Kaz Balinski-Jundzill, with whom she had her daughter Ella in 1996, before their separation and eventual divorce. It wasn’t long, however, before itchy feet and a desire to be more grounded for her daughter saw Lorraine move back to London with new ambitions and fresh ideas on where to take her career. Dabbling in an eclectic range of vocations in the wake of her runway shows, the TV star first tried her hand at interior design, car mechanics and hypnosis, before carving her niche in the world of food and drink. Today, the face of books and series like Baking Made Easy and How to Be a Better Cook is a bestselling author, television personality and all-round champion of healthy eating and living, as demonstrated in her most recent project. Taking favourite recipes and giving them a refreshing, nutritious twist, Eating Well Made Easy provides a snapshot of Lorraine’s own day-to-day eating
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habits for readers to try at home. “The inspiration behind it is that it’s the way I actually eat, so the food I eat every day is what you see in the book. Most of the time you just want a recipe that’s going to be quick, reasonably priced and that’s going to actually work.” Delectable highlights include peanut butter and banana muffins, no-cook chocolate espresso cheesecake squares and beetroot risotto with feta cheese and mint, illustrating a wealth of sweet and savoury dishes that are as simple as they are satisfying. But the book’s real strength lies in its ability to transform everyday foods into truly show stopping meals. “I quite often make the fruit berry tarts with vanilla cashew cream; they’re quite easy and look stunning and really impressive, so they’re great ones to make. I love the leek, aubergine and chickpea tagine
with cashew nuts and apricots, and have the cinnamon protein pancakes a lot.” Despite her best efforts, though, it would seem that eating well might not be as easy as she’d once hoped. As food prices continue to soar, it’s becoming increasingly difficult for the average Brit to afford the local, seasonal ingredients required to whip up a wholesome family meal. “There’s a lot of work to do, mainly in price, because to eat healthy can sometimes be very expensive, and it’s much easier to go and get a bag of crisps
“The inspiration behind it is that it’s the way I actually eat, so the food I eat every day is what you see in the book. Most of the time you just want a recipe that’s going to be quick, reasonably priced and that’s going to actually work”
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We build our mortgages around you All homes are different. The same applies to the need for home financing. Therefore we offer individual and flexible solutions for all your mortgage needs and requirements. We can find a financial solution to suit your needs whether buying a new home or remortgaging. Nigel Baldwin - Individual Banking Manager Tel: 01892 547756, email: niba02@handelsbanken.co.uk Ray Keatley - Individual Banking Manager Tel: 01892 547475, email: rake01@handelsbanken.co.uk
Your home may be repossessed if you do not keep up repayments on your mortgage
Oakhurst House, 77 Mount Ephraim Tunbridge Wells, Kent, TN4 BBS Tel: 01892 547702, Fax: 01892 547988 www.handelsbanken.eo.uk/tunbridgewells
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Handelsbanken is the trading name of Svenska Handelsbanken AB (publ). Registered in England & Wales No. BR000589. Incorporated in Sweden with limited liability. Registered in Sweden No. 502007-7862. Head office in Stockholm. Authorised by the Swedish Financial Supervisory Authority (Finansinspektionen) and the Prudential Regulation Authority and subject to limited regulation by the Financial Conduct Authority and the Prudential Regulation Authority. Details about the extent of our authorisation and regulation by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulation by the Financial Conduct Authority are available from us on request.
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GASTRO LORRAINE PASCALE unfortunately. Local food isn’t sustainable in the UK, as we don’t have enough space to sustain ourselves.” Nonetheless, Lorraine continues to do her bit to promote a better way of living, eating and nourishing mind, body and soul through keeping fit and staying active. Which isn’t to say she doesn’t have something of a sweet tooth herself, of course; rather than make the move into restaurants, she opened her own patisserie, Ella’s Bakehouse (later renamed the Cupcake Bakehouse), in Covent Garden, and has judged hit shows like Holiday Baking Championship in the US. Elsewhere, her philanthropic activities have seen her draw on her own childhood experiences to become a patron of TACT (The Adolescent and Children’s Trust), which is the UK’s largest charity and voluntary agency providing fostering and adoption services. In addition to being made the Government’s first fostering ambassador, she even filmed a documentary, Fostering and Me, for BBC Two, which saw her reunited with her original surrogate parents. “It’s really important, especially if you’re in the public eye, to give something back, and seeing as my history was fostering and adoption, I thought it was a really good charity to be with. It’s a great feeling, as it helps other people and also helps you feel like you’re doing something good.” But while cooking shows and books will no doubt remain her bread and butter, Lorraine is also keen to adopt a more DIY approach, joining the social media revolution and broadcasting a range of tutorials and master classes from the comfort of her own desktop. Not only does this ensure she keeps up with the most recent trends, but it also gives her the chance to bring her food instantly and directly to online fans and followers. “I’m moving a lot into YouTube at the moment; it’s real, it’s current and I think it’s brilliant. I’d like to focus on doing that and bring lots of interesting, current recipes into people’s homes. I’m doing a whole series of videos for students, which I film myself, because my daughter’s just gone to university, so some tasty recipes for students that are quick and not just pasta!” Well, if her latest book is anything to go by, penniless pupils around the country will soon be doing away with Pot Noodles in favour of far more appetising alternatives. But that’s the thing about Lorraine Pascale; she’s no stranger to shaking things up and trying something new. All it takes is a dash of courage and a dollop of drive.
Lorraine Pascale’s Eating Well Made Easy: Deliciously healthy recipes for everyone, every day is available now, priced £20, from HarperCollins. To learn more about Lorraine and try her latest recipes, visit www.lorrainepascale.com
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GASTRO LORRAINE PASCALE
SWEET POTATO, CAVOLO NERO AND ROSEMARY MEATBALL HASH WITH POACHED EGGS Serves 4
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“There’s no rigid formula to this
large baking tray. Drizzle over two
use up whatever you may have in
Roast for 40 minutes, occasionally
dish. It’s a good recipe guideline to the fridge. The meat can even be omitted altogether and replaced
tablespoons of the oil and season. tossing them about.
with tempeh or tofu if you fancy a
Meanwhile, put the meat of your
swapped for regular potato or
season well and mix everything
veggie dish, or the sweet potato
squash. Spring onions or leeks can take the place of the red onion,
while cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage or even shredded Brussels sprouts
can easily replace the cavolo nero.”
INGREDIENTS
choice in a bowl. Add the herbs, together until well combined.
With clean, damp hands, shape
the mixture into eight even-sized
balls (about the size of a golf ball).
to cook them.
cubes (skin on or off)
minutes, put a large frying pan
3tbsp olive oil
300g sausage meat or turkey or chicken mince
6 sage leaves, finely chopped Leaves from 1 sprig of fresh rosemary, finely chopped (about 1tsp)
75g cavolo nero or kale, woody
stems removed, very finely sliced 8 free-range eggs
1tbsp white wine vinegar
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS
Preheat the oven to 200°C (fan
180°C), 400°F, gas mark 6. Scatter the sweet potato and onion on a
Born: Hackney, East London, November 17 1972 Nationality: British Occupation: Television presenter, publisher, cook, model Years active: 1989 to present Height: 5’ 10.5” Books: 6 TV series: 8 Marriages: 1 Children: 1
then cover and chill until you need
Once the sweet potatoes have
1 large red onion, cut into wedges
At a Glance
Pop them on a plate as you go,
4 medium sweet potatoes (about 300g each), cut into bite-sized
Lorraine Pascale
been cooking for about 25
with the remaining oil over a
medium heat. Cook the meatballs for six to eight minutes, turning
regularly, until golden and almost cooked through. Remove the
sweet potatoes from the oven, scatter over the cavolo nero or
kale and nestle the meatballs in.
Return to bake for the remaining time, until the potatoes are soft
and beginning to char, the greens lightly cooked and meatballs cooked through.
Meanwhile, poach the eggs.
Divide the hash between four
plates. Use a slotted spoon to
scoop the eggs from the water
and arrange two eggs on top of each serving. Serve at once.
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GASTROAPPRENTICE CHEFS
Meet the…
Young Guns
Here at Whiting & Hammond, we’re passionate about bringing young, aspiring chefs into our industry through apprenticeships and training programmes. We introduce some of the budding cooks who are earning their stripes with us at the start of bright, promising careers in the kitchen… CONNOR GOBLE
The Little Brown Jug, Chiddingstone Causeway How did you get involved with W&H? I started working for Whiting & Hammond two years ago as a kitchen porter. I left school last year and was offered the apprenticeship scheme at The Little Brown Jug. I enjoyed the vibe of the kitchen and the fast pace, so jumped at the chance to learn some new skills and see if I could be good enough to be a chef. Has your apprenticeship been a valuable experience? With the help of my tutor Ben, who sets me tasks and comes to see me every two weeks, and the hands-on approach from the kitchen, I’ve developed into what I am today. Being part of the team and being allowed to create new dishes has given me a huge insight into the industry
and I now know that this is where I want to be. Who are some of your biggest influences? I’ve always been inspired by watching the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Jamie Oliver on television, and by the chefs at work in the kitchen. My family has also encouraged me to cook over the years. What’s your signature dish? I don’t have a favourite dish to cook; at this stage in my apprenticeship, I’m constantly learning and creating new dishes every week. Any plans for the future? I hope to stay with Whiting & Hammond for the foreseeable future, then eventually have the opportunity to travel, learning about cuisine from other countries. One day I would like to think I could be a head chef and have a kitchen of my own.
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GASTROAPPRENTICE CHEFS
LAURA EVES
Tell us about your background After spending the past four years working in typically branded restaurants, I decided that I wanted to be able to have more of an input in creating dishes. Unfortunately, this isn’t so easy in brand restaurants, so I decided to branch out and discovered where I work now.
Heston Blumenthal’s whacky creations and Gordon Ramsay’s passionate temper, my real inspiration for cooking would be my dad. As a kid, I grew up with my dad being the main cook of the household and found myself joining in with him. That’s when I discovered my passion for food.
Who inspired you to take up cooking? While finding myself inspired by
Any favourite dishes to make? I love Italian food and really enjoy the simplicity of cooking
The Cricketers Inn, Meopham
How has your apprenticeship aided your progression? Working with Whiting & Hammond as an apprentice has helped me develop myself as a chef and discover many ways of cooking. What are your hopes going forward? I would like to see myself as a more developed chef in the future, with more knowledge and experience, then perhaps run my own kitchen.
We’re always on the lookout for young, passionate and enthusiastic apprentice chefs to join our growing team. To find out more about how you can become a part of the W&H family and help build the future of our industry, head to www.whitingandhammond.co.uk/vacancies
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STEEN SCHLEIMANN MADSEN
Stanmer House, Brighton What’s your background? I’m originally from Denmark and currently study here in England. I’ve always found food and cooking very fascinating. Does anyone in particular inspire your cooking? My biggest influences are most definitely my grandmother and my mother. Do you have a favourite dish? I enjoy learning to cook new dishes mostly. I have to say that Frikadeller
(pan-fried meat dumplings) with parsley sauce and Danish rice pudding have a special place in my heart. Have there been many highlights from your apprenticeship? Stanmer House and Whiting & Hammond have been very patient and co-operative with everything. Working at Stanmer has without a doubt taught me a lot, not just about cooking, but also about personal skills that I can use in the industry. And your aims for the future? I want to become a really good chef within the next few years and use everything I learn here.
TOM SHARP
The Farm @ Friday Street, Eastbourne Why did you want to become a chef? I’ve always had an interest in food, ever since being in secondary school and doing a BTEC. It has always been something I knew I could expand on in the future and learn to love. Who are some of your cooking heroes? My biggest inspiration is definitely Heston Blumenthal and the way he can take a dish so simple and make it look so unique and out of this world; his knowledge of food is amazing and beyond belief. Another great chef I look up to is someone called Jason Howard from London. He isn’t very well-known or famous, but you only have to look at the quality of the food he produces to see why he can be a big influence on someone. What’s your favourite dish to cook? Beef stroganoff. Is your apprenticeship a big part of your development? I personally feel that playing such
an important role in the kitchen has helped me grow up a lot more and really knuckle down on what needs to be achieved in order to reach my goals. If I look at myself from when I started my apprenticeship to where I am now, a lot has changed and it’s all positive. It has been a very challenging experience so far, but I’ve managed to get through it and look forward to working my way up in the kitchen and learning more every day.
Where’s it all heading for you? My main goal is to eventually have my own restaurant. I would love to own a real standout restaurant in an overseas city like New York, so that it could bring in large crowds of customers from all over the world. I know this is a very far-fetched ambition at the moment, but I can only accomplish it by carrying on doing what I’m doing and trying to expand my knowledge of food even further.
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PENS HURST FINE FOODS LTD From dairy products, to dry stores and fresh bread, to the weird and wonderful, we've been supplying Whiting & Hammond and many other great venues for over 20 years by sourcing only the best produce and specialist ingredients from
Established in 1986, Larkins Brewery was founded by the Dockerty family, who bought the plant from the former Royal Tunbridge Wells Brewery. Since the move to Larkins Farm in 198 7, the production of three regular brews and Porter in the winter months has steadily increased. Larkins supplies around 70 free houses within a radius of 20 miles.
local farms and producers For a full product list please call 01892 664044
Proud Supplier to Whiting & Hammond Larkins Brewery, Hampkins Hill Road, Chiddingstone,
Eden bridge, Kent TN8 7BB
01892 870 328 www.larkinsbreweryco.uk
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GASTRO ADVERTORIAL
Jan’s top tips for everyone thinking of taking advantage of equity release financial products include: • Whenever possible, involve families and everyone with a longer-term financial interest in the property
Jan’s top tips for successful equity release At 55+ Equity Release in Tunbridge Wells, you’ll find all the information needed about the different types of equity release available and the costs associated with equity release schemes. Specialist adviser and lifetime mortgage broker Jan Bull reveals some handy hints that could help
R
eleasing cash from property to pay off an outstanding mortgage, undertake essential home renovations or buy a dream holiday is a good solution to financial challenges – but only if you take personalised advice, according to a Tunbridge Wells independent equity release specialist. Jan Bull, head of 55+ Equity Release, believes that people who could really benefit from taking advantage of equity release packages are being put off by ill-informed scaremongering in the national press. “There is a wide range of products and financial packages on the market, and mistakes can be made if people do not make the right choices for their circumstances and their families,” she
says. “Equity release products are not one-size-fits-all, off-the-shelf solutions. “Unfortunately, many people are facing significant financial pressures when they start researching equity release. That pressure can lead to snap decisions, which may not be the wisest in the long run.” For further information, please contact Jan Bull at 55+ Equity Release on 01892 458 780 or info@55plusequityrelease.com www.55plusequityrelease.com
• Products are available alongside lifetime mortgages so that not all people have to see balances increase. Some lenders allow mortgage interest to be paid, or overpaid, so that the debt reduces over time • Check out the interest rates. These vary between lenders, depending on the type of mortgage on offer. They can range from below 5% fixed for life to around 7% fixed for life • Before committing to an equity release product, work through the illustration of the mortgage plan with an independent equity release adviser and with a solicitor. This will clarify what the roll-up interest will be and the conditions for any early repayment charges • Discuss how circumstances may change in the future. For example, if you go into care, the mortgage has to be repaid. This is the same for residential mortgages, where a fixed rate product has been taken and not specific to equity release • There aren’t necessarily any early repayment charges though. If someone moves home, the mortgage is portable to the new property (subject to the property being approved) and some lenders don’t make any early repayment charges after a fixed period
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There’s been much to celebrate at Whiting & Hammond in recent months. The great and the good of Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey attended the opening of our eighth pub, The Blue Ball, while over at The Mark Cross in East Sussex, the 10th edition of Gastro magazine was unveiled to suppliers, advertisers and supporters, who marked this special occasion with drinks and canapÊs. These two landmarks coincided perfectly, drawing attention to the hard work put in by everyone at W&H over the past year, and highlighting our success in watching the brand go from strength to strength with fresh and exciting initiatives
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GASTROSOCIAL
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refreshing, crisp soft drink with all natural ingredients and low sugar
Find us at your local W&H pub Untitled-4 2
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facebook.com/drinkzeo
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drinkzeo.com
15/10/2015 14:18
GASTROSPOTLIGHT
Gourmets in the South East won’t want to miss a visit to Tunbridge Wells, where the picturesque Pantiles boasts a wealth of food and drink culture to sink your teeth into. From the farmers’ markets to the food festivals, we shine a light on why the town has become a culinary wonder of the Weald
…
T
here can be few destinations in Kent that boast a food and drink scene as buoyant as that of Tunbridge Wells. From its discovery by Lord North in 1606, to its reputation as a popular spa destination in the Georgian and Victorian eras, the town has flourished to become one of the region’s most desirable locations, thanks in no small part to its vibrant gastronomic landscape. Today, Tunbridge Wells is known far and wide as a beacon of multicultural cuisine. There are more than 220 eateries available throughout the area, not to mention two weekly farmers’
markets and food festivals every year, which showcase the very best produce the Garden of England and beyond has to offer. Among the most well-known places to visit is the historic Pantiles. Once a playground for gentry and royalty, the pretty colonnaded walkway is famed for the iron-rich waters of the Chalybeate Spring, which once rivalled the likes of Bath and Brighton and were reputed to cure such ailments as infertility, hangovers and obesity.
Read on...
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Now, the promenade remains a must-see for both locals and visitors on account of its communal feel and bustling atmosphere. And with a multitude of shops, pubs, restaurants and cafés banding together to form The Association of Pantiles Traders, it’s perhaps one of the most collaborative foodie districts in Kent, as head trader Matthew Sankey explains. “It’s very much now a mixture of retail and food and beverage,” he says. “We’re quite proactive in driving footfall to the area; we run the markets and the food festivals and put on other events, so it’s a real destination. There’s been a resurgence in the last few years and the place has been given a bit of a makeover, so it’s on the way up.” For Matthew and his peers, operating at the bottom end of the town is a dream come true. A sense of community permeates each and every venue, who work together to make the thoroughfare as attractive as possible to customers through a variety of events, from the packed-out Jazz on The Pantiles evenings to the equally appealing biannual food festivals.
“Working down there is extraordinary,” continues Matthew. “We’re working hand in hand and putting everything on together. It’s incredible and quite refreshing because it can get quite lonely running a business, so putting on events is great because you’re dealing with likeminded people who are in your industry and in a similar position to you and your company.” Such camaraderie is naturally inspired by a shared passion for providing a strong ‘F&B’ offering locally (that’s ‘food and beverage’ to the rest of us), but it’s also about sticking together in the face of larger corporations and restaurant chains setting up shop next door. “The quality of the venues is important, which has improved in the town in general and is driven by competition,” Matthew says. “The chain restaurants have come in and changed the industry, forcing us to be smarter, more efficient and look at how we operate our businesses, which is a key element. We’ve got the advantage of being hands-on
and having a lot more passion.” It’s this shared vision that has served The Pantiles and Tunbridge Wells so well until now, as an independent spirit has helped to unify smaller traders throughout the town as a whole. Equally, Kent itself remains an integral part of the story; indeed, the county’s natural larder has been instrumental in enabling small businesses to make their marks on the local economy, while ensuring the produce remains front and centre, no matter where it might come from. “We’re incredibly lucky being in Kent, because a lot of produce is cultivated here,” says Matthew. “But that doesn’t mean we use it exclusively; it’s more key that we’re using locally based wholesale companies. “We need to make sure we keep the local economy thriving, and spending money with independent food and beverage sites is a great way of doing that because we’ll always buy off local people. It’s important that we’re using local suppliers and the best
Read on...
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We need to make sure we keep the local economy thriving, and spending money with independent food and beverage sites is a great way of doing that because we’ll always buy off local people Matthew Sankey
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GASTROSPOTLIGHT produce from whoever’s growing and producing it. It might not be local, but as long as we’re using local people to source it, that’s the important thing.” Another factor that has helped drive the town’s footfall is a recent influx of celebrity chefs, as household names like Rosemary Shrager, Richard Phillips and James Tanner have all made Tunbridge Wells the home of Michelin-starred restaurants and cookery schools alike. But, as Matthew warns, the emphasis needs to remain on local outlets first and foremost. “We’ve got to be careful there,” he says. “Having people like Rosemary Shrager and Richard Phillips is one thing and great for the town, but having a massive chain like Jamie
Oliver move in is something else. We’ve got to make sure we look after our own brands, but that’s down to us to make them strong and desirable enough, because if they’re not, others will move in. So, while it’s great to have these big names wanting to come down to us, we need to make sure we look after ourselves.” If the increasing popularity of the jazz evenings and food festivals is anything to go by, that shouldn’t be a problem, as winers and diners from all over continue to be drawn to the area’s booming food and drink attractions. And while the competition of larger enterprises might present a challenge, the smaller outlets are continuing to fight the good fight.
“We’re on the back foot against the Goliaths, but we can provide a better product; we know that and we’ve proved it time and time again,” concludes Matthew. “We’ve just got to be proactive and get involved, but the most important thing is making sure our product’s good. We know we can’t please everyone, but we’ll give it a damn good try.” Well, Matthew, dish up and get the beers in, because the next round’s on us.
To find out more about food and drink in Tunbridge Wells and The Pantiles, head to www.visittunbridgewells.com or www.pantilestraders.co.uk
Matthew lists his top five reasons to visit Tunbridge Wells and The Pantiles ■ Great
independent restaurants, pubs and cafés – there’s great pride taken by these businesses ■ The Pantiles Food Festivals – in May and September ■ Two great food markets – the Town Hall on the second Saturday of the month and The Pantiles on the first and third Saturday of the month ■ With plenty of choice, The Pantiles is great for families – no main roads and loads of space for little ones to play ■ Some of the best producers in the UK – right on our doorstep, making it sustainable, as well as delicious
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GASTRORECIPES
My favourite dish Here’s where we feature our team’s top choices from the W&H menu for you to try at home. Martin Slocombe, general manager at The Blue Ball in Walton-on-the-Hill, Surrey, shares his love of shellfish…
Moules marinière and French fries Serves 4-6 (Ingredients pictured below)
1.8kg mussels
1 white onion, finely chopped
2 bay leaves
Cleaning the mussels Wash the mussels under cold running water, but don’t scrub the shells, or the colour will transfer to the juices during cooking, giving them an unappetising, grey appearance. If any of the mussels float, it means they’re not very fresh, so discard them (and ask your fishmonger to credit them). Press the shells of any open mussels together with your fingers; if they don’t close, discard them. Scrape off any barnacles from the mussels with a sharp knife and pull out the ‘beards’, then drain well. Cooking the onion and herbs Over a medium heat, in a large pan, soften the onion, bay leaves and thyme in the butter for one minute. Cooking the mussels Add the mussels and white wine, cover the pan tightly with a lid and cook for four to five minutes, until the mussels have opened. Finishing the dish Stir in the cream and parsley, then serve in a large dish or four soup plates. Give finger bowls to your guests and lots of good French bread to mop up the wonderful juices.
25g flat leaf parsley, picked and roughly chopped
Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 5-6 minutes
8 sprigs fresh thyme
100ml dry white wine
How to make French fries Prepare the potatoes The ideal French fries have a crisp, golden exterior and a light, mealy interior. Russet or Idaho potatoes (highstarch potatoes) will give you the best results, although Finnish yellow, Yukon gold, or other all-purpose potatoes will work. Low-starch potatoes, such as round red or white, or new potatoes, are the least preferable. For four to six servings, start with four medium baking potatoes (or sweet potatoes), or about one to one and a half pounds. Usually the potatoes are peeled, but you can leave the peel on. To prevent peeled potatoes from darkening, immerse them in a bowl of ice water. The trick for uniform fries is to first cut the potato into a rectangular shape by cutting off both ends. Next, cut straight down one side to make a flat surface. Repeat on the other three sides so you end up with a rectangular potato. Next, cut the potato into 1/4 to 3/8-inch strips. If you prefer, you can cut the potato into thin wedges. Try to cut them so they are about half an inch wide at the widest part of the potato. Heat the oil for frying It’s important to use an oil suitable for
15g unsalted butter
2tbsp whipping cream
deep-frying when making fries. Some oils, such as olive and flaxseed, are not appropriate because they have low smoke points and will smoke, discolour and break down at low temperatures. Oils with a higher smoke point that work well for deep-frying include the likes of canola and peanut. One of the secrets for deep-frying foods is to keep the fat at a constant high temperature. This is best done by using a heavy, flat-bottom pan and a deep-fat thermometer to monitor the oil temperature. In a heavy, deep, three-quart saucepan or fryer, heat oil to 185°C (the pan should be no more than half full). Fry the potatoes Preheat the oven to 150°C. Drain the potatoes well and, using paper towels, pat them thoroughly to dry. Fry the potatoes, about one third at a time, until tender in the centres and the edges are crisp and golden; about five to six minutes, turning once. Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove the fries from the hot oil and transfer to clean paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt, if desired. Keep the cooked fries warm on a baking pan in the oven while frying remaining potatoes.
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I fell in love with mussels when I was 15 years old. My father used to take me to the south of France and we used to sit on the harbour eating fresh mussels and fries. This is when I decided to join the hospitality trade Martin Slocombe
Moules marinière and French fries WINTER’15 | 41 W&H_Iss11_Winter15_MyFavDish.indd 41
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POMEGRANATE & STRAWBERRY. A UNIQUE, EXOTIC FLAVOUR COMBINATION
Our founders discovered Cider on a cycle tour in the UK
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ESTABLISHED IN NZ. MADE IN EU. for the facts
drinkaware.co.uk
15/10/2015 14:19
GASTRODRINK
Ale Tale
Local boys make good beer
Kent might be famous for its top-notch hops, but there’s an equally exciting brewing revolution going on throughout neighbouring East Sussex. We catch up with Jamie Simm of Long Man Brewery in Litlington to find out why small breweries are becoming big business in the South East and beyond… Read on ✲
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GASTRODRINK
I
f you’ve ever visited the South Downs, chances are you’ve spotted the iconic Long Man of Wilmington; at 226 feet tall, the imposing image is cut into the steep slope of Windover Hill and remains a major local landmark, as well as one of the largest representations of a human figure anywhere in the world. It’s from this famous monument that Long Man Brewery naturally takes its name. Founded in 2012 by locals Stephen Lees, Duncan Ellis and head brewer Jamie Simm, the award-winning hop house is based in the nearby village of Litlington in the Cuckmere Valley, at the heart of the South Downs National Park. The Long Man headquarters can be found at Church Farm, where the Ellis family has been overseeing operations for three generations. And with Stephen and Jamie’s respective experience at beverage suppliers HT White and The Royal Tunbridge Wells Brewery, it has become one of the fastest growing breweries in the South East, where a love of all things local underpins each and every drop of its eclectic range of beers.
“Long Man employs in excess of 10 people, the majority of whom live within the Cuckmere Valley; half of the team actually live within the village of Litlington,” says Jamie. “There’s a real passion for great beer and for the local community within the team and a great calibre of committed staff in the area. East Sussex alone has in excess of 60 breweries, which shows the strength of the industry and the demand in the South East of England for great beers.” Such demand stems from the brewery’s use of local ingredients to produce award-winning brews like the ‘seriously hopped’ American Pale Ale and the ever popular Long Blonde. Certainly, Long Man’s success is well-deserved, as the brewery strives to be as self-sufficient, sustainable and environmentally friendly as possible. “Each beer we produce is the end result of not trying to reinvent the wheel, but rather to get back to basics and produce consistently high-quality, handcrafted, cask conditioned bitter,” continues Jamie. “Our identity lies within our commitment to use the
best and most locally sourced ingredients. Without a doubt, recipe formulation is the best part of the job. It perfectly reflects the blend of science and art required to work within this industry.” In addition to using their own barley, which is grown on the downs overlooking Eastbourne, Stephen, Duncan and Jamie ensure that all waste products are used on the surrounding farmland, while waste water is channelled to irrigate crops and spent grain is used to feed livestock. They’ve even ventured into more philanthropic ventures, helping to raise money for the Eastbourne Pier Benevolent Fund with their Craft Pier brew. But it’s the locality of East Sussex that remains the star of the show, as a back-to-basics approach throughout the South East has seen breweries like Long Man come to the forefront of the region’s beer making industry, coinciding with punters’ penchants for nononsense, good quality ales. To that end, villages like Litlington have made their mark as go-to destinations for the real deal. “In recent times there has been a perfect storm of
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increased demand, a desire for decent beer and a boredom of the mass-produced ‘wet air’ on offer,” Jamie says. “In an interesting turn, the British market is now starting to be increasingly influenced by the American craft scene, and for this reason, among others, the industry is starting to endorse both cask and keg beers.” And the industry starting to take note of smaller breweries too, which have now become major players on the national pub circuit. Today, Long Man supplies more than 80 outlets throughout the UK and has won its fair share of awards, including Europe’s Best Pale Ale at the
World Beer Awards for its APA, and a recent Silver Medal at the International Beer Challenge for Long Blonde. Pretty impressive for any brewery, let alone one of such independent stature; but, as Jamie concludes, what it lacks in size, it more than makes up for in versatility. “Local brewers are perfectly placed to be close to the preferences of the local end consumer and understand their desires, while being agile enough to produce a range of beers and regular guests that cater for the tastes of the most demanding beer connoisseur.” Fast becoming a favourite of local ale drinkers, it would seem that Long Man definitely fits the bill. And while appealing to regional and national customers might be a balancing act for such a young brewery, business has boomed over its three-year history, meaning ale aficionados can rest assured that these three local boys are certainly in it for the long haul.
SUSSEX PRIDE American Pale Ale (4.8% ABV)
Made using only the choicest US hops, this triple hopped American Pale Ale has a pleasant citrus fruit aroma and characteristic robust bitterness. Best Bitter (4% ABV)
A traditional Sussex best. Perfectly balanced with a complex bittersweet, malty taste, fragrant hops and a characteristic long, smooth finish. Copper Hop (4.2% ABV)
Copper in colour and hoppy by nature; Vienna and Premium British Caramalt provide a balanced backbone for the intense tropical fruit aromas. Long Blonde (3.8% ABV)
A light coloured golden ale with a distinctive hoppy aroma and crisp, clean bitterness on the finish. Smooth, light and refreshing. Session IPA (3.8% ABV)
CONTACT: Long Man Brewery Church Farm, Litlington, East Sussex BN26 5RA 01323 871 850 | www.longmanbrewery.com
Brewed using the famous ‘triple C’ hops, this modern take on a British classic is a highly quaffable, straw gold session ale that packs a serious citrus aroma punch!
Whiting & Hammond supports responsible drinking. Visit www.drinkaware.co.uk for the facts about alcohol
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GASTROFOODTRIVIA
Foodie factsheet Christmas cash
Throughout the UK, an estimated £22billion is spent by households at Christmas time, with the average home splashing out a grand total of £835. Approximately £161 of this is thought to go on food and drink, while the rest is spent on gifts (£634), cards, trees and decorations (£40).
22
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billion = total spend
£835
= average spend
£161 food & drink
£634
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Sweet speculation
Calorie counters
Brussels beginnings
An average Brit consumes 7,000 calories on Christmas Day. Some 2,265 of these are consumed before Christmas lunch through alcohol and snacking, while the dinner itself accounts for 1,450 and Christmas pudding for 1,174. As a result, we put on 6lbs between Christmas Eve and New Year’s Day. eaten Xmas da ries y alo c 00 unch l 0 e r , o 7 ef sb rie o l a 50 cal 5c r 1,4 e 6 n n ,2 Di 1,174 cal sert s e D
Much superstition surrounds mince pies. While it is considered lucky to eat one on each of the 12 days of Christmas, cutting one with a knife is said to bring bad luck. Mince pies should always be eaten in silence and the mincemeat mixture should be stirred clockwise.
Despite being named after the Belgian capital, Brussels sprouts are thought to originally come from Iran and Afghanistan. There are over 50 varieties of the vegetable, and farmers run 10 times as many harvesters to produce them in the run-up to Christmas, picking them from dawn until dusk.
Pudding power
Christmas pudding is also shrouded in mystery. Supposedly, the dessert should be made with 13 ingredients to represent Jesus and his disciples, while placing a silver coin (traditionally a ‘sixpence’, or today’s five pence piece) in the pudding reportedly brings good luck to the person who finds it.
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Global gourmets
In Norway, the festive feast takes place on Christmas Eve, while the Swedish meal consists of caviar, shellfish, cheeses plus cooked and raw fish. Soup, salads, eggs and carp are enjoyed in the Czech Republic and Austrians indulge in braised carp served with a gingerbread and beer sauce.
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Turkey traditions
The majority of families (76%) around the UK tend to serve up a succulent roast turkey as the centrepiece of their festive meal at Christmas. Last year saw the UK consuming approximately 10million turkeys. The bird was considered a luxury before becoming more readily available in the 1950s.
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GASTROSTREET FOOD
n o i t u l o v e R
KITCHENS OF THE
Farmers’ markets have always been a big part of the food and drink scene in this part of the world, but now there’s something far more radical coming our way. As the street food movement gathers pace, we find out why gourmet grub is heading out of the restaurants and onto the roadside
N
owadays, it seems like everywhere you look, good quality food is becoming more readily available up and down the UK. From pop-up restaurants to farmers’ markets, diners want to know more about their meals, where they come from and how they’re packaged and delivered. Perhaps even more importantly, people
want their food cheap and they want it now. But far from the quick fix titans of Burger King, KFC and McDonald’s, the latest fast food fad is something altogether fresher and more exciting, as the street food revolution has taken Britain by storm in recent years. Following suit from the United States, the street food phenomenon as we know it today aims to take great gastronomic
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offerings into the streets by way of mobile food trucks, vans and trailers. A back-to-basics approach is adopted, with roaming chefs setting up shop wherever their wheels take them, serving up more affordable spins on classic recipes without compromising on the quality. Simply put, these innovative purveyors and peddlers are redefining the way we eat and enjoy our food. One man who’s championing the trend is Richard Johnson. As a food critic for The Independent and The Guardian, as well as a judge on ITV’s Taste the Nation and Channel 4’s Iron Chef, the award-winning journalist and broadcaster founded the British Street Food Awards in 2010, celebrating the nation’s traders who are turning traditional dining on its head and bringing something entirely different to the table. “I was profiling Marco Pierre White in New York,” says Richard. “We’d been out the night before and woke up on a very sunny New York morning in need of strong coffee and some substantial carbohydrates. We ended up in a park in Manhattan eating the best hotdogs and burgers we’d ever tasted, thinking, ‘Why can’t we do this at home?’” It wasn’t long before the new foodie fashion took off on our side of the pond, as local, regional and national vendors took inspiration from their American counterparts, adapting recipes to fit the landscape’s abundance of fresh, seasonal produce and catering to the nuances of British tastes and palates. “In a very short space of time, street
food has gone from being sausages in a can to the cutting edge of food in Britain,” Richard continues. “Hopefully we’ve got some of the pizzazz of the Americans – their glitz and glamour and the way they present their food in these weird and wonderful vans, trucks and trailers – but also more of the integrity of the ingredients that you’d find in the Far East.” Today, street food is eaten by 2.5billion people across the world every day; hardly surprising, as easier travel opportunities and a greater exposure to more exotic cuisines has educated us no end, spurring on a new generation of intrepid eaters to try something new. And with an everexpanding multiculturalism and the financial constraints of the recession, it’s a lucrative industry that has finally been given the opportunity to flourish. “The recession had something to do with kick-starting it,” Richard says. “People wanted a night out, but were more aware of the constraints. What street food delivered was the drama, the excitement and the theatre, but on an affordable budget. “Lunch shouldn’t have to be £100 or a sandwich at your desk; there has to be some other way of eating. The street food that I saw in New York really excited me – it was
theatrical, engaging, affordable and excited people about food. As food writers, a big part of our job is to make people care about the food they’re eating.” And it’s not just big cities like London that are hopping on the bandwagon; the likes of Brighton are embracing the change too, as outdoor events like Street Diner continue to attract adventurous eaters to the Kent and Sussex regions. But while the South Eastern counties might still have a long way to go, the area’s bountiful ingredients and popular farmers’ markets have certainly helped pave the way. “It traditionally works best in larger towns, so we haven’t seen much country street food, but access to ingredients is vital, and there are such wonderful farming opportunities and so many great producers in Kent and Sussex,” explains Richard. “I always trace the beginnings of the street food movement back to farmers’ markets; that was where the birth of
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the street food swagger began. It then became about presentation and going into more esoteric vans, trucks and trailers that expressed a bit more about you, allowed you more mobility and became a bit more rock and roll than a trestle table and a tablecloth.” Of course, celebrity chefs and organisations like Love British Food and the Nationwide Caterers Association have helped make consumers aware of what’s on offer in our natural larder. For people like Richard, however, it’s about far more than just the grub on offer that makes street food culture so special. “Increasingly, it has evolved into something much more than food,” he says. “It’s also about the DJs, the entertainment and hanging out together in a festival atmosphere with a big bucket of beer in the middle. Just having food isn’t enough anymore – they’re more like food raves at the very best.” Indeed, it’s this sense of community and lifestyle that has made street food stand out. Which isn’t to say, of course, that Michelin-starred restaurants and more traditional dining experiences don’t still have their place, as there’s certainly plenty of room for everyone. But there can be no denying that the sky’s the limit for the potential of the emerging street food scene. “A big part of what we do is finding the next big thing in street food, because that will often be the next big thing on the high street,” says Richard. “The high street is really bereft of ideas and street food is such an exciting place to trial new concepts that venture capital is floating above. The joy of street food is that you’re not tied in to a restaurant concept; if it doesn’t work, you can move on to something else.” If the current climate’s anything to go by, things are most definitely looking up for the gourmet guerrillas who are slowly but surely making their voices heard. And with street food finding its way into our supermarkets and shops, it surely won’t be long until it’s as much a part of Britain’s fast food fabric as takeaways and ready meals, but with a much needed boost to what we put in our trollies.
“Lunch shouldn’t have to be £100 or a sandwich at your desk; there has to be some other way of eating. The street food in New York was theatrical, engaging, affordable and excited people about food. As food writers, a big part of our job is to make people care about the food they’re eating”
“There’s a definite trend for street food to go indoors,” Richard concludes. “We’re in the beginnings of talks about how to put the excitement of street food menus into pubs. By working with street food from the very beginning and finding new talent, we’re able to put traders into restaurants and retail parks. We’re finding spaces for street food so that it really does become a revolution rather than just a slogan.” To that end, the popularity of street food is showing no signs of slowing, reaching the hearts and minds of gastronomes all over the country and becoming an integral part of our food economy’s future. But like any great revolution, this one started in the streets, and that’s exactly where its soul will remain. To find out about Richard Johnson and British Street Food, head to www.britishstreetfood.co.uk. You can also learn more about street food and the Nationwide Caterers Association by visiting www.streetfood.org.uk or www.ncass.org.uk
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T E E R T S E H WORD ON T It helps people get off benefits and into employment The low entry costs and little experience required to start a street food business make for great employment opportunities. All you really need is a great foodie concept and a savvy sense of self-belief (NCASS do pretty much all the rest for you). It makes everybody happy Street food gives entrepreneurs the opportunity to put their passion into practice as they cook delicious food and put smiles on their punters’ faces. Now that’s a rewarding job. It encourages urban regeneration in out-of-touch towns Street food can transform a cold corporate space or a vacant factory into a thriving market full of colours, aromas and happy, smiley people. Many places (like Leeds, Frome and
Reigate) are using it to develop their night-time economy, kick-start entrepreneurship and create tourist destinations. It’s a massively supportive community The street food community is a tight-knit bunch; traders often bounce ideas off each other and lend a helping hand when it’s needed. It’s a really nice industry to work in.
Richard Johnson
JASON ALDON
The Nationwide Caterers Association gives us its top five reasons for loving street food
It’s about gourmet food without the price tag Did you know you can get a £5 lunch from the London KERB collective? Delicious (and delightfully priced) food made from sustainable ingredients and cooked live keeps the customers coming. That’s real theatre.
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GASTROTRAVEL
Ever dreamed of setting sail on a luxury cruiser, accompanied by a host of celebrity chefs waiting on you hand and foot? Well, now you can, as P&O Cruises introduce their long-awaited Food Heroes trips aboard the MV Britannia. We join Michael McHugh for some nautical nosh across the Baltic Sea‌
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startlingly tart apple crumble is my traditionally British dessert as I sail towards Scandinavia and Russia with one of the UK’s most venerable old cruise lines. Yet on the MV Britannia, P&O’s new flagship liner, the familiar dish is turned on its head. The crumble looks like breaded cod and is accompanied by a bowl of ‘mashed potato’ – a sorbet tasting like 100 apples have been crammed into every icy spoonful. With celebrity chef Marco Pierre White on board, I feel I could be in a select corner of an English shire, enjoying the fruits of a same-day forage in his beloved orchard. He’s just one of the kitchen whizzes P&O have recruited for a star-studded line-up of Food Heroes Cruises. Indian cuisine specialist Atul Kochhar, French master pastry chef Eric Lanlard, wine expert Olly Smith and Brit boy
James Martin also host voyages, and some are even prepared to roll up their sleeves and teach passengers in the ship’s Cookery Club. I’m sailing on Britannia, the largest cruise ship ever built for the British market. The 3,600-passenger monolith is based in Southampton and its Union Jack livery is visible for miles when at sea. It towers over far-flung quays like a piece of oceanic mega-fauna. Eric Lanlard has joined us for this sailing, creating a gourmet version of that most British of institutions – afternoon tea. I munch tender roast beef and horseradish on brioche, marvelling at how the delicate peppery taste of watercress is preserved. It’s followed by a cheese ‘éclair’ of Brie and sweet red onion marmalade. Star of the show is a dark chocolate ‘tear drop’, my spoon revealing a centre of oozing Italian Amarena cherry mousse, and I can’t help but remark on the clever presentation as I bite into a rose-flavoured cake in the form of a lollipop. But I quickly realise that these elaborate dishes are something I’d struggle to emulate at home. Any thoughts of putting down the fork and seriously picking up the spatula are swiftly dispelled during a cookery class with White, of TV’s Hell’s Kitchen fame. He urges novice chefs to relax, by downplaying potential hazards: “What is the worst you can do, overcook it or undercook it?”
Read on Æ
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As I miss the boiling water and accidentally tip my dry macaroni into a lobster sauce, his words echo in my ears while pupil and teacher lock eyes. The maestro never loses poise, draining the soupy mixture from the uncooked pasta, but I feel the pitying glances of my classmates as I try to hide behind the stove. At least I manage to painstakingly chop an onion, very, very finely, long after fellow students have finished. “Perfection is lots of little things done well,” says White, but the three Michelin star-winning chef is also feeling a bit nervous. He’s cooking for a handful of exclusive diners this evening, and confesses to finding the prospect a little daunting, but also intimate and enjoyable: “You learn to dissolve your fears on the stove.” The father-of-three says he enjoys nothing more than tending to his apple trees and being out in the countryside. He also loves life at sea, preferring the waves to the city. I’m in full agreement as we meander along a fjord outside Stockholm. The boat weaves between small islands with log cabins painted cream, accessible only by water. Jet-skiers play in the wake as the vessel drifts languorously, extending large ripples from its side. We’re soon on our way to St Petersburg, Russia’s ‘window on the West’, which lies on the Baltic’s eastern extremity. Postcard-perfect classical buildings and Venetian-style canals define this former imperial capital. I visit Peterhof, the summer palace of Catherine the Great. It’s dripping with gaudy Baroque-style gold ornamentation and chandeliers – all recreations, as the original riches were plundered by Nazi troops during the
Second World War. More than 100 rooms were destroyed, but so far only 25 have been restored. Outside the building’s Gulf of Finlandfacing facade is an extravagance matching that of its interior: fountains with two golden, kneeling, half-human, half-beast figures dominate formal gardens, filled with topiary and manicured lawns. They soak me with spray as I elbow through crowds of tourists for a view. Our day of culture concludes with a ballet evening under the high, stuccoed ceilings of the Grand Palace. The prima ballerina in St Petersburg native Pyotr Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake displays perfect timing during dizzyingly long pirouettes, losing herself in the dance. On board Britannia, dancing isn’t quite of the same
Travel Facts: P&O Cruises is offering a 14-night Baltic cruise on the family-friendly Azura from £999pp for an inside cabin, departing June 5 2016 from Southampton. Includes full-board meals and afternoon tea, round the clock kids’ clubs and entertainment on board. Marco Pierre White cruises for 2016 include: 14-night Mediterranean cruise on the Britannia (July 30 to August 13) from £1,679pp; 14-night Mediterranean cruise on the Azura (August 29 to September 15) from £1,799pp; 11-night Canary Islands cruise on the Ventura (October 16 to 27) from £799pp. For details and to book, head to www.pocruises.com, call 0843 373 0111 or visit your local travel agent.
mesmerising quality. But the mostly middle-to-old-aged passengers happily waltz and shimmy into the small hours at the Crystal Room dancing lounge, as I relax with a drink. The demographic is tactfully acknowledged by some of the services on offer, including spa treatments for puffy ankles and arthritis, and ship photographers promising soft-focus treatment for customers to make them appear 10 years younger. Yet the buzzing social life on board would make many a 20-something wilt, and the vessel abounds with vigorous 60-year-olds in chinos and polo shirts, pullovers tied over shoulders. Julian Smith, a soprano saxophonist who you might remember from the 2009 series of Britain’s Got Talent, plays Ennio Morricone’s soundtrack to the 1986 film The Mission, as I stand at the back of a crowded auditorium, surrounded by passengers in their most elegant evening gowns and black-tie outfits. I then head to dinner in Sindhu, a low-lit and tastefully decorated part of the ship that could be a raja’s quarters. A chicken tikka pie in thick pastry combines UK staples with a wild berry compote, providing an original and zingy contrast. A chocolate pudding with a perfectly molten centre follows, coupled with a blood orange sorbet. Afterwards, I retire to the Crow’s Nest bar at the front of the ship, which has an impressive menu of London and Plymouth gins, and listen to the piano player. My ambitions to be a gourmet chef may have quickly sunk without a trace, but a holiday spent dining on fine food and even finer views has been nothing short of plain sailing.
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GASTROGLOSSARY
Guide to Cooking Techniques Whether you fancy yourself a poaching pro or a baking beginner, it’s always handy to know your stuff in the kitchen. To help you get to grips with the terminology and techniques, we’ve rounded up some key definitions that will equip you with the necessary jargon to survive behind your stove
…
W
ith so much exposure to endless TV programmes nowadays, it’s no surprise that many of us aspire to be the next Jamie or Nigella when cooking at home. But since there are countless ways of preparing and creating food, keeping them all in check can sometimes get a little overwhelming. So, if you want to walk the walk, you’ve first got to talk the talk, which is why we’ve put together a gastronomic glossary of terms that every budding chef should have to hand when working their magic in the kitchen. From basting and blanching to sautéing and searing, we guide you through a selection of words you’ll need to know when cooking up a storm for friends and family. Read on to find out more and brush up on your foodie phrases…
Baking
Prolonged dry heat is used for baking, which reaches the centre of the food from the surface. It can be achieved using an oven, hot ashes or hot stones.
Basting
Many meats can be prepared in their own juices, or a separate sauce or marinade, which is used to coat the meat at various intervals throughout the cooking process.
Boiling
The advantages of boiling include retaining maximum colour and nutritive value of vegetables, although it can be time-consuming and result in a loss of soluble vitamins to the water.
Blanching
This technique means plunging fruits or vegetables into boiling water for a couple of minutes, before placing them in ice water or under a tap to stop them cooking.
Coddling
Similar to poaching, coddling is usually only applied to eggs, which are kept just below boiling point throughout the cooking process, taking longer, but producing a more tender result.
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GASTROGLOSSARY
Flambéing
For a little more flair in the kitchen, flambéing sees alcohol added to a hot pan. This creates a burst of flames, infusing the dish with aroma and flavour.
Grilling
To cook your food quickly, apply dry heat from above or below. Although dryer in texture, this approach will invariably produce healthier results in comparison to cooking with oil.
Panfrying
Jugging
Not to be confused with shallow frying, panfrying uses minimal cooking oil (just enough to lightly lubricate the pan) in a shallow, dense cooking vessel to improve temperature regulation.
Here, a ghtly covered container such as a casserole or ea henware jug is used to stew a whole animal, usually game or fish. A pa icular favourite is jugged hare.
Shallow frying
Typically, shallow frying is used to prepare portion sized meat and fish cuts on a high heat, which are often battered and should be turned partway through cooking.
Sautéing
Similar to panfrying, sautéing uses a small amount of oil in a shallow pan over a high heat. Ingredients are usually chopped or thinly sliced to facilitate fast cooking.
Poaching Submerging food in liquid is suitable for delicate foods such as eggs, poultry, fish and fruit. Water, milk, stock or wine should be heated at a relatively low temperature.
Searing
Although searing doesn’t retain juices or moisture found in various meats, the caramelised crust that forms on the surface helps create more intense flavours and taste and texture contrasts.
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Flavours of the Months November, December and January bring with them some top produce, ingredients and recipes. To get you inspired about what to cook over the coming months, Whiting & Hammond’s executive chef James PalmerRosser shares some of his top choices from our menus that won’t fail to impress … Hare three ways, butter poached loin and parfait with kale, celeriac and truffle Hare is very rarely used and, like rabbits, there are plenty of them. I’ve pared this up with kale, considered to be the closest vegetable to wild cabbage for its robust taste, and need I mention that it’s considered a super food. OK, yes it’s ugly, but let’s not judge a book by its cover, as celeriac tastes pretty awesome. I like it so much that, to celebrate this vegetable, I do it in different ways (purée, roast and remoulded). Its nutty, unique flavour makes this a perfect marriage. As for the truffle, well, this is self-explanatory and always a welcome addition to many dishes. All these items are at their best towards the end of November and December.
Plaice pauppiette with scallop and crab mousse/clam and Jerusalem artichoke chowder This hearty winter warmer makes for a great light lunch or dinner, with the creamy, hearty chowder and the light, delicate plaice fillies stuffed with the crab and the milky scallops. I replace the potato in the chowder with Jerusalem artichoke. These ingredients are plentiful through the month of November and all at their best.
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Apple tarte tatin This French classic is a real crowd pleaser, and if you’re entertaining, it’s sure to impress your guests. With this, we use Pink Lady apples; with the sweet natural flavour, it’s tough enough to take on the caramel without losing any of its integrity.
Jaffa cake The Jaffa cake traditionally has three layers made up of a base of a genoise sponge, a layer of orange flavoured jelly and a coating of chocolate. It was originally introduced by McVitie and Price in the UK in 1927 and was aptly named after Jaffa oranges. McVitie’s never trademarked the name, so many manufacturers have produced similar offerings with the same name. The product’s classification as a cake or biscuit was part of a VAT tribunal in 1991, with the court ruling in McVitie’s favour that the Jaffa cake should be considered a cake for tax purposes.
Artichoke/hollandaise/cob nut savoury crumble This classic combo with an added little crunch makes for a great vegetarian options, or as a side. With the globe artichoke being at its peak through October, it really is something that should be tried. If you’re unsure on how to prepare globe artichokes, don’t worry; it really is very simple, with plenty of tutorials online to guild you through.
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GASTRO WINE PAIRINGS
Wine Pairings
Paired to Perfection With the start of the festive season comes plenty of delicious food and drink, and knowing the best ways to complement the two could make your holiday season even more memorable. Linton Neill, South East regional sales manager at Enotria Wines, matches his top bottles with our menus… STARTERS GOAT’S CHEESE AND SPINACH RAVIOLI – WITH SQUASH PURÉE, CARAMELISED SQUASH PARMENTIER AND RED ONION CRISPS
Viognier Reserva, De Gras: Full-bodied with nectarine and melon flavours and a rounded, succulent finish. WINE AT A GLANCE Region: Colchagua Valley Country: Chile Grape varieties: Viognier 100% Alcohol: 13 Producer: MontGras The De Gras range of wines is produced solely for the on-trade and for independent retailers. “The philosophy is to create modern Chilean wines that offer exceptional quality and value,” says Hernan Gras, president and winemaker at MontGras. “We have all the equipment and technology, but it’s the people that make the difference. Crafting wine is an art in which you must use all your senses.” Feedback from the experts would indicate the success of this approach; continued production of the highest quality wines in their price points remains key, alongside a desire for innovation and a constant quest to be the best. We are proud to say that the De Gras range of wines forms a very reliable pillar of our on-trade offering. Tasting note: This exotic, sumptuously rich wine is packed with aromas of ripe tropical fruit and flowers. It is full-bodied, dripping with juicy nectarine, melon and papaya flavours, finishing rounded and succulent.
SMOKED BREAST OF DUCK – BEETROOT, GREEN APPLE AND WALNUT
Pinot noir, Little Eden: Seductive and silky initially, opening out with mouth filling and persistent flavour and a finely balanced structure of firm acidity.
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LINE CAUGHT FILLET OF SPICED MACKEREL – PICKLED BEETS AND HORSERADISH CREAM
Grüner Veltliner, Höpler: A fully ripened, delicate structure with refined sweetness of fruit on the palate and a creamy finish. WINE AT A GLANCE Region: Burgenland Country: Austria Grape varieties: Grüner Veltliner 100% Alcohol: 12 Producer: Höpler The Höpler family’s Grüner Veltliner is light in alcohol, with fiery minerality – a brilliant introduction to Austria. Last year we introduced their awesome Blaufränkisch, which has new world fruit impact, allied to old world brightness of acidity and peppery aromatics. Not only that, but their sweet wines made from frozen, shrivelled and/or nobly, rotted grapes are helping forge a formidable following. Tasting note: Light greenish yellow, subtle mineral tones with a soft, stone fruit aroma. Fully ripened, wellstructured with refined sweetness of fruit on the palate, a touch of black pepper and a delicate, creamy finish.
MAINS CLASSIC SEAFOOD BOUILLABAISSE – ROUILLE WITH SAFFRON POTATOES Sauvignon Blanc, Valdivieso: Cool, crisp Sauvignon fruit – green apples, gooseberries and passion fruit with a hint of riper tropical fruit behind. A wave of bright, limey citrus freshens up the finish.
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GASTROWINE PAIRINGS
SPELT, CRANBERRY AND BUTTERNUT SQUASH PUFF PASTRY WELLINGTON – SAUTÉED BRUSSELS SPROUTS, BUTTERED BABY LEEKS AND CHESTNUTS
MAMAKU BRAISED FEATHER BLADE OF BEEF – ROASTED CELERY, SMOKED MASH AND ‘CHASSEUR SAUCE’
Íntimo Red (Cabernet/Merlot/Malbec): Intense ruby colour. Complex and elegant nose, with red berries and notes of vanilla and tobacco. In the mouth the wine is medium to full-bodied with ripe, dark fruit flavours and a hint of oaky spice. WINE AT A GLANCE Region: Patagonia Country: Argentina Grape varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon 40%, Malbec 20%, Merlot 40% Alcohol: 13.5 Producer: Humberto Canale Patagonia provides a very different Argentinian wine style for those raised on the heat of Mendoza: at 39 degrees of latitude, with sun-filled days and cold nights, the High Valley of the Rio Negro gives wines strong on finesse and aromatic character. If Rio Negro is a relative newcomer to many people’s wine repertoires, Humberto Canale has experience on its side. The winery was established as long ago as 1909, taking its name from its founder, the pioneering engineer who did so much to develop Patagonian agriculture. More than 100 vintages and four generations later, Guillermo Barzi Canale is at the helm, overseeing a range of elegant wines that run the gamut, from Pinot Noir to Malbec and Cabernet Franc, not forgetting a pair of excellent value white and red blends. Tasting note: Intense ruby colour. Complex and elegant nose, with red berries and notes of vanilla and tobacco. In the mouth the wine is medium to full-bodied with ripe, dark fruit flavours and a hint of oaky spice.
Whiting & Hammond supports responsible drinking. Visit www.drinkaware.co.uk for the facts about alcohol. To find out more about Enotria Wines, head to www.enotria.co.uk
Chenin Blanc, Stellenrust – Fair trade and delicious, this Chenin Blanc shows elements of soft vanilla oak notes on the nose, alongside tropical fruits with a mineral palate of grapefruit and pear drop.
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GASTROWINE PAIRINGS
There’s never been a better time to enjoy English wines Jonny Gibson from Sussex Wine School shares his thoughts on the latest trends, topics and titbits from the world of wine English wines are enjoying a renaissance at the moment. According to Julie Trustram-Eve of English Wine Producers, retail sales for wine made from grapes grown in England and Wales are predicted to rise to £100million this year. The industry produced a record-breaking 6.3million bottles last year and is expecting another bumper year in 2016. It wasn’t that long ago that English wines were regarded as something of a joke. Even 10 years ago, there still weren’t many plantings of what have become the three most important grape varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier – used mainly for producing sparkling wine. Recent investments in vineyard plantings and winery equipment from a new breed of entrepreneur investor, mostly in the last 10 years, are beginning to reap rewards. “With 13 gold medals and 11 silvers, England was the third most successful sparkling wine country in this year’s Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships,” says renowned fizz expert Tom Stevenson. “If English sparkling wine can build a world-class reputation and achieve
the competitive success to match it on such young vineyards and with very little reserve wine, imagine what might be achieved as the vineyards mature and producers build up their reserves.” The wine estate that fired the starting gun on the new breed of English wines was Nyetimber in West Sussex. Its Classic Cuvee still sets the benchmark for English sparkling wine and, indeed, the Nyetimber Classic Cuvée 2010 won the trophy in the English category of the 2015 Champagne and Sparkling Wine World Championships. Other English sparkling wines I’ve tasted and enjoyed recently include Ridgeview Bloomsbury 2013, Bluebell Vineyards Hindleap Blanc de Blancs 2011, Court Garden Blanc de Blancs 2010, Coates & Seely Blanc de Blancs NV, Gusbourne Estate Brut Reserve, Chapel Down Blanc de Blancs 2009, Davenport Limney 2010, Langham Classic Cuvée Brut 2011 and Wiston Estate Brut 2010. For sparkling rosé, you should try Camel Valley Pinot Noir 2012, Ridgeview Victoria Rosé 2010 and Hush Heath Balfour Brut Rosé NV. Land prices and the lack of economies of scale, not to mention the labour intensiveness of making sparkling wines by the traditional bottle fermented method, mean that prices are in the £23-35 range. Make no mistake though, as these wines are right up there in quality terms with similarly priced Champagnes.
Still wines are also improving with every vintage. Bacchus has led the way, but there are some excellent whites being made from Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Ortega and other grape varieties – sometimes single variety, sometimes blends – but usually with a distinctive whiff of hedgerows, elderflower and citrus fruits. I can personally recommend all of the following still wines: Bolney Estate Pinot Gris 2014 for a rich, zingy, spicy white; Camel Valley Atlantic Dry 2014; Albourne Estate Bacchus 2014; and Estate Selection 2014; Chapel Down Bacchus 2014; Davenport Vineyard’s Horsmonden Dry White 2013; Gusbourne Estate Guineviere 2013 (oaked white) and Bolney Estate Pinot Noir 2013 (red). Good places to buy English wines include www.waitrosecellar.com (96 English wines in the current range), The Secret Cellar in Tunbridge Wells, Butlers Wine Cellar and Quaff Wines in Brighton, The English Wine Centre near Alfriston and www.englishsparklingwine. co.uk. Alternatively, go and visit a wine estate near you – see www. englishwineproducers.co.uk and the vineyard search menu option. Jonny Gibson is an independent wine educator. He runs regular tastings and courses, including WSET Levels 1-3, with Sussex Wine School in Brighton and Tunbridge Wells. To find out more, visit www.sussexwineschool.com
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GASTROAT HOME
ANOTHER SIDE OF
Christmas Turkey and Brussels sprouts on Christmas Day are all well and good, but sometimes you fancy something a bit different. Executive chef James Palmer-Rosser puts together an appetising alternative for December 25…
W&H’S ALTERNATIVE CHRISTMAS DINNER Serves 8
BEEF WELLINGTON
Preparation time: One hour Cooking time: 25 minutes INGREDIENTS 1kg beef fillet 250g chestnut mushrooms, washed, drained and chopped
1 good sized handful spinach 200ml semi-skimmed milk 6 egg whites 250g self-raising flour 1 small bunch tarragon 1 small bunch parsley 1 large block puff pastry DIRECTIONS Trim down the beef by placing your fillet on a large chopping board. Using a boning knife or a knife with a thin, flexible blade, take off all the sinew and remove the chain from the side of the beef. Trim and remove any
thin bits at the end of the meat, as you want a consistent size all the way along. Once trimmed, seal evenly and season in a hot frying pan. Sauté the chestnut mushrooms. Once cooked until golden-brown in colour, add and cook down the spinach in the same pan. Season and put on a cloth to drain. Measure out the milk, egg whites and flour. Whisk all together and add seasoning and herbs of your choice; tarragon and parsley are always good. Heat a non-stick pan until hot. Add a small amount of cooking oil, run it around and tip out the excess. Pour the pancake mix into the pan, while tilting the pan at the same time, so you get a thin layer of pancake mix covering the whole pan. Once cooked,
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tip it out and repeat the process. When the bottom and top sides are nicely coloured light brown, lay out on the side to cool. While all the ingredients are cooling and draining, roll out your pastry to the size that will be big enough to encase the length of your meat. Give yourself a bit extra to play with; it should be about 5mm thick. Place the pastry down first, followed by your pancake and drained mushroom and spinach mix. Put the steak on top, pull the pancake up around the meat and fold over it. Trim the excess pancake with scissors and pull up the pastry the same way, using your hands to make a rectangular dome shape. Trim excess pastry from the bottom. Egg wash and sprinkle a small amount of sea salt on the top of it if so desired. Score a few lines along the top with a knife, being careful not to cut through for presentation. Place on greaseproof paper on a baking tray in the middle of the oven at about 180°C for about 25 minutes, depending how you want your meat cooked. This temperature and timescale will make it medium-rare to medium. Once cooked, leave to rest for a few minutes.
100g chopped walnuts 1tsp celery salt DIRECTIONS Start by peeling your celery and trimming the tops and bottoms. Cut to five to six-inch pieces. In a large pan, bring your chicken stock to a simmer and add your celery. Braise in the oven for 10 minutes so they are just cooked. Once cooked, take out of the oven and leave to cool. Take the celery out of the stock and arrange into your gratin dish. Season with salt and pepper. Crumble the stilton over the celery and spoon over the crème fraîche, using a spatula to spread it evenly. In a thick bottom saucepan, melt the butter and add your breadcrumbs. Toast the crumbs in the butter so they are lightly toasted. Add the chopped walnuts. Sprinkle the crumble mix over the celery and sprinkle on the celery salt. Place in the oven at 200°C and bake for 25 minutes so that the top is light golden-brown and serve.
FONDANT POTATOES
STICKY BRAISED RED CABBAGE WITH APPLE AND SHERRY VINEGAR
Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 2 hours INGREDIENTS 50g butter 1 medium Spanish onion, finely sliced 2 dessert apples, peeled, cored and sliced 1kg red cabbage, finely sliced 100g raisins 200ml sherry vinegar ½ stick cinnamon 2tbsp brown sugar Zest and juice of 2 oranges
Directions Melt the butter in a large thick bottom casserole pan. Fry the onion in the butter for three minutes, or until tender, then add the apples and red cabbage. Cook for five minutes over a medium heat, then add the raisins, sherry vinegar, cinnamon, sugar and orange zest. Stir well. Place the lid on top and cook in the oven for about two hours, stirring regularly. Season to taste and add the orange juice at the last minute.
CELERY AND STILTON GRATIN
Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 40 minutes INGREDIENTS 750g celery 2 litres chicken stock 200g stilton 6 heaped tbsp crème fraîche 100g salted butter 6 heaped tbsp granary breadcrumbs
1 litre chicken stock 100g salted butter
Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes INGREDIENTS 1.5 kg barrelled jacket potatoes 10g thyme sprigs
DIRECTIONS You need to start by turning your potatoes. Place a layer of your potatoes in a 5cm deep dish and add the thyme in a separate pan. Heat the chicken stock and bring to the boil. Add the stock to the potatoes so it comes three quarters of the way up. Season and bring to the boil on top of the stove. Melt the butter, brush over the potatoes and place in the oven at 200°C for 45 minutes, basting the potatoes regularly. They should be light and golden-brown on top, with all the stock absorbed by the potatoes. Brush with melted butter and serve.
onions, but only trimming the roots. Discard the outer leaves of the baby gems, then thickly slice the lettuce. In a large saucepan, gently heat the butter, add the onions and cook for five minutes until the onions are soft, but not coloured. Add the baby gem and cook for a further two minutes. Add the vegetable stock and the caster sugar, bring to the boil and continue to cook on a fast boil for a further three minutes. Taste and season with salt and black pepper. Add the peas to the pot and cook over a low to medium heat for five minutes. Just before the end of cooking, add the crème fraîche, gently mix and allow to heat through. Check the seasoning and adjust to taste. Serve with the sprigs of mint on top.
SMOKED MACKEREL PÂTÉ
Preparation time: 25 minutes INGREDIENTS 600g smoked mackerel 300g cream cheese Zest and juice of 1 lemon 1 small bunch parsley 1-1½tsp fresh horseradish, freshly grated 1-1½tsp Dijon mustard 150g butter 1 pinch paprika Few sprigs of chervil DIRECTIONS Peel the skin off the smoked mackerel and discard. Put the fish in a food processor, breaking it up slightly as you go. Add the cream cheese, zest and most of the juice of the lemon and a few picked leaves of parsley. Also add the horseradish and mustard and whiz very briefly until you get a nice creamy pâté. Season to taste. Clarify the butter by placing in a pan and simmering until it separates. Skim the impurities from it; you should be left with a clear yellow substance. Mix in the paprika and leave to cool. Pour on the top of the pâté in your pots and drop in the chervil to garnish if so desired.
PETITS POIS À LA FRANÇAISE
Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes INGREDIENTS 30 small pearl onions 2 baby gems 100g salted butter
½ pint vegetable stock 2tsp caster sugar 1.8kg frozen peas, or fresh if in season 4 tbsp crème fraîche 8 fresh sprigs mint
DIRECTIONS Start by peeling the outer leaves of the
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GASTROFOODHEROES
Raising Agents For the past 100 years, thousands of women around the country have been inspired to take up cooking by the National Federation of Women’s Institutes. As it celebrates its centenary, we find out more about the rise and rise of the WI and how it continues to preserve a rich gastronomic legacy
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f you watched the most recent series of BBC Two’s Great British Menu, you’ll know that 2015 has been a special time for women all over the UK. More specifically, this year marks the 100-year anniversary of the National Federation of Women’s Institutes, or the WI, as it’s more commonly known, which has unquestionably been a beacon of
Britain’s foodie fabric for the past century. Founded in 1915, the WI was launched to help revitalise rural communities and encourage women to become more involved in producing food during the First World War. While the organisation’s aims have broadened and diversified since then, a culinary focus has always been at its core, as cookery committee chair Mary Clarke explains.
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1915-1stWImeetingvenue “The WI has a long and proud association with food; from the early work of members preserving excess food to help feed the nation during World War One and World War Two, to work done to campaign for good school meals, better hospital food and preventing food waste,” she says. “There’s also a long history of WI cookery books, with tips and hints to help everyone make better or more inventive food at home.” Indeed, a love of gastronomy remains one of the group’s foundations to this day, as the WI campaigns on food issues close to members’ hearts and even runs its own cookery school at Denman College in Marcham, Oxfordshire, where members and non-members alike can partake in a range of inspiring, hands-on classes, from knife skills workshops to family baking days.
1940s wartime fruit preserving To mark the centenary, further food celebrations have included the production of stage play Raising Agents, as well as the release of The WI Cookbook: The First 100 Years, which recreates archive recipes from every decade since 1915. Celebrating the rich history of food and cooking, the book explores the background behind some of the WI’s most well-loved recipes, while elsewhere, a nationwide competition went in search of Britain’s best fruitcake. “The winning recipe was included in the book, and it was used to make the cake cut by HM the Queen at our
centenary annual meeting in the Royal Albert Hall,” Mary continues. “The same recipe was also used to make 5,400 slices of cake given to every member and guest who attended the meeting – quite a baking feat!” To be sure, the proof is in the pudding as far as membership numbers are concerned; today, the WI is the largest voluntary women’s organisation in the UK, with 212,000 members in around 6,600 branches nationwide. And with celebrity endorsement from the likes of Mary Berry behind it, the society continues to use its influence for the better, as members are committed to improving our national awareness of eating right and staying healthy. “The WI has been campaigning to improve the nation’s diet and improve the sustainability of food since the very beginnings of the organisation,” says Mary. “Members were involved with the Love Food, Hate Waste campaign from the very beginning to promote using up leftovers and reducing food waste, and the WI has run two very successful projects, Let’s Cook and Let’s Cook Local, to work with disadvantaged families and teach key cookery skills, so that they can cook nutritious meals on a budget.” Speaking of local, the WI’s national reach has meant that members are able to roll up their sleeves and get involved in their own communities, including those of Kent, Sussex and Surrey. Along with established groups like the Brighton Belles and the Guildford Spike, Tunbridge Wells is also putting its stamp on the Kent federation with not just one, but two new branches. Needless to say, it’s a great opportunity for local women to get things cooking. “The WI is a three-tier organisation, with every WI belonging to a federation, and each federation organising their own events, tailored to their members’ needs and interests,” Mary explains. “Every federation is involved in supporting a whole host of local food and drink events, and members are able to promote the huge variety of opportunities to prospective new members, while also taking part in showing, judging and demonstrating across the UK.” But in spite of its success, there are still challenges ahead for the institute in promoting, teaching and learning new gourmet skills. As revealed in a centenary report profiling views and opinions of current members, 88% believe traditional domestic skills are being lost, making their campaigns and courses all the
Little Bowden WI
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GASTROFOODHEROES
Food Fighters
We profile five of the WI’s key food campaigns, initiatives and centenary celebrations Let’s Cook Local – gave WI members the opportunity to support young families in their areas by running basic cookery courses Denman – offers a wealth of opportunities to learn new skills on day schools and short courses in the field of cookery, craft and lifestyle.
Campaigns_membersat theRoyalAlbertHall
more crucial in elevating Britain’s standards. Nevertheless, Mary remains optimistic about the WI’s role in bringing about meaningful change. “Food and drink will always be an important part of the WI – they are important parts of everyone’s lives! – and members are proud of the reputation that the WI are leaders in the field,” she concludes. “Members who wish to
WI Centenary Fruitcake Competition – gave members the chance to have their fruitcake recipes served at the WI centenary annual meeting at the Royal Albert Hall in 2015. The WI Cookbook: The First 100 Years – produced to celebrate the centenary of the WI, bringing to-
learn more and perfect their skills can take a range of different courses, and there are exciting new recipes to try every week on the WI website, using seasonal produce with step-by-step instructions to inspire visitors to try something new.” At the end of the day, that’s what the WI is all about; creating new opportunities for women to come together and learn from one another. And while much may have changed in the last century, one thing that has remained consistent is its insatiable appetite for great food and drink. To that, and to the next 100 years, we’ll most certainly raise a glass. The National Federation of Women’s Institutes • 104 New Kings Road, London SW6 4LY • 020 7371 9300 www.thewi.org.uk
gether 100 of the best loved recipes from members nationwide. Mission Milk – over 15,000 WI members took part in the Great Milk Debates in 2007, campaigning to ensure a longterm future for British milk.
MaryClarke “The WI has a long and proud association with food; from the early work of members preserving excess food to help feed the nation during World War One and World War Two, to work done to campaign for good school meals, better hospital food and preventing food waste”
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First residents move in as Dandara's stunning vision for Knights Wood becomes a reality A significant milestone has been reached at Knights Wood, with the first residents beginning to move in to their brand new homes at Dandara's stylish development in Royal Tunbridge Wells. Dandara properties are valued for their
There is currently just one home still
impressive internal specifications and
available in the latest release of
attention to detail - with the homes
The Lanes, the most recent phase of
at Knights Wood being no exception.
homes released for sale at Knights Wood.
Carefully designed for stress-free living,
Anyone interested in the release of the
there are a variety of internal layouts for
next phase, should register their interest
buyers to choose from, making it easier for
by calling 01892 800580. Alternatively,
individuals or families to find something
they should visit the marketing suite at
that suits their lifestyle.
Knights Wood, which is open daily from 10.00am to 5.00pm.
Spacious kitchens, separate lounges and
Since its launch in June 2014, Knights Wood has proved extremely popular, attracting buyers from the local area and also from further afield, especially South and East London. Set against a picturesque backdrop of tranquil countryside on the edge on Tunbridge Wells, Knights Wood is a unique collection of 550 two, three and fourbedroom homes, designed around different character areas that make the most of their beautiful surroundings. With the first homes now complete and occupiers starting to arrive, Dandara's stunning vision for this part of Royal Tunbridge Wells is certainly starting to take shape. For many purchasers, their main point of reference while waiting for their new home to be built has been the stylish marketing suite at Knights Wood. Now that their homes are ready, many of the first residents have expressed their delight that the Marketing
master bedrooms with en-suite all help to
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The Lanes are from ÂŁ455,000. For further
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information, visit www.knightswood.co.uk
Combined with an impressive internal specification, including fitted kitchens by German manufacturer Leicht and stainless steel appliances by Neff, the homes at Knights Wood include many features that would be regarded as 'extras' by other developers. In fact, Knights Wood has already scooped two UK Property Awards and it is now becoming clear that these accolades were well deserved.
Knights Wood is the perfect place to put down roots. The woodland setting is beautiful and the location is convenient for people commuting into London, or looking to enjoy everything that Tunbridge Wells has to offer. '
Suite is indeed a true representation of their
Susie Bennett
own new home.
Sales and Marketing Director, Dandara
'
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Knights Wood, Royal Tunbridge Wells offers all of the convenience of an easy commute, with green, open spaces, local shops and a new school on your doorstep. Register your interest now for updates on the next release of family homes at Knights Wood.
Knights Wood. The perfect place to put down roots.
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GASTROMARKETS
To market, to market
At Lewes Food Market, locals and visitors alike can take advantage of fresh, seasonal produce available in East Sussex and the surrounding areas. Market manager Annabel Frost explains more about the market’s goals and highlights some of the most popular stalls and products on offer Tell us the background of the market Lewes Local Community Interest Company (CIC) is a not-for-profit company with the broad aims of developing sustainable local food systems, and making it easier for more people to buy good, healthy, seasonal food. Lewes Local CIC was established in June 2010, and the Lewes Food Market is its first project. Where did it go from there? The market grew from an idea initially developed by members of the Transition Town Lewes Food Group. The Food Group aims to work towards sustainable food production, supply and access in Lewes District. A market seemed a good way to further these aims, so Food Group members recruited more people to establish the market group, which worked with the support of others, such as the Lewes Town Partnership and Lewes District Council to get a market up and running. As a Community Interest Company, we run the market as a business, employing a market manager, but use any profits to support food-related community initiatives. What are the main aims? To provide an outlet for professional producers, small amateur sellers and new producers To support distribution methods that reduce carbon emissions To reclaim and develop a sustainable, local food culture To do this, we have set criteria for stalls at the market, which we hope reflect our core principles. These include:
our original stallholders have gone on to open shops and cafés and have thriving wholesale businesses. We also have a varied selection of secondary producers, who sell locally prepared, baked or cooked food – everything from handmade chocolates and gluten-free cakes to vegan spring rolls and local cheeses.
Primary
produce – priority will be given to ‘primary produce’ e.g. vegetables and fruit, eggs, milk, meat and fish Local produce – priority will be given to the most local producer of any product without compromising quality Chemicals – growers will be expected to be looking for alternatives to chemical fertilisers and pesticides, wherever possible Battery farming – battery farmed eggs and animal products are excluded from sale Packaging – stallholders should encourage shoppers to use reusable shopping bags, or to reuse carrier bags where practicable. All packaging should be kept to a minimum, reusing and recycling where possible
Is everything on sale local? Goods are all raised, grown, produced, processed or baked within approximately 30 miles of Lewes. Cooked products, or products that have had value added, have to contain a significant proportion of local produce. Why is it important for people to shop at farmers’ markets? Lewes Food Market is a community resource; it provides a viable and economic outlet for local farmers and producers, gives shoppers local access to fresh products and supports local small businesses. By shopping at Lewes Food Market, you’re helping to maintain the viability of local producers and so sustaining and protecting local food supplies.
How many stalls do you have? There are on average 20 stalls. Most stallholders come every week, especially the most popular primary producers of meat, fish, eggs and vegetables. Others come fortnightly or monthly. The stall fees depend on the pitch size and allow for new producers to ‘test the water’. Some of
Lewes Food Market is held every Friday from 9.30am to 1.30pm at The Market Tower, Market Street, Lewes BN7 2NB. To find out more, visit www.lewesfoodmarket. co.uk or email lewesfoodmarket@ hotmail.com
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Eat, drink and be merry AT Don’t fancy cooking the Christmas dinner at home this year? Then join us at one of our award-winning pubs and restaurants for a mouth-watering festive menu. From traditional turkey to more alternative dishes, read on for a taste of what to expect when you have yourself a W&H Christmas…
THE CHASER INN SHIPBOURNE, KENT
THE LITTLE BROWN JUG CHIDDINGSTONE CAUSEWAY, KENT
THE MARK CROSS INN MARK CROSS, EAST SUSSEX
Starter Chicken and wild mushroom rillette – pickled vegetables – truffle oil – tarragon mayonnaise – ciabatta toasts
Starter Home smoked beef croquettes – with mushroom ketchup
Starter Country game terrine – pickled wild mushrooms – root vegetable crisps
Main Stuffed pork loin – spiced apple and brandy – smoked potato mash – sautéed greens – port/thyme sauce
Main Poached and roasted breast of local pheasant – pancetta – braised Puy lentils – winter roots – crispy salsify
Dessert Black forest arctic roll – with a cherry coulis
Dessert Citrus assiette – lemon posset – key lime tart – orange sorbet
Main Traditional roast turkey – sage and onion stuffing – pigs in blankets – roast potatoes – roast gravy Dessert Traditional Christmas pudding – with pudding sauce
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GASTROCHRISTMAS MENUS
THE FARM @ FRIDAY STREET EASTBOURNE, EAST SUSSEX
THE CRICKETERS INN MEOPHAM, KENT
STANMER HOUSE BRIGHTON, EAST SUSSEX
Starter Peppers Piedmontese – stuffed peppers with tomato, basil and goat’s cheese
Starter Crab panna cotta – caviar dressing – beetroot crisps
Starter Duck liver and Cointreau parfait – with a bloody orange jelly – toasted brioche
Main Pan roasted pavé of hake – tomato, saffron and mussel cassoulet
Main Chestnut, leek and potato crumble – thyme/honey glazed root vegetables
Dessert Salted caramel cheesecake – with caramel sauce
Dessert Apple Tatin – vanilla ice cream
Main Sautéed gnocchi with thyme – chestnut mushrooms and pearl barley – truffle cream Dessert Salted caramel and hazelnut chocolate torte – chocolate soil – clotted cream To view our full Christmas menus and book your table for December 25, head to your local site or visit www.whitingandhammond.co.uk
THE KINGS HEAD BESSELS GREEN, KENT
THE BLUE BALL WALTON-ON-THE-HILL, SURREY
Starter Wood pigeon wellington – sautéed spinach – mushroom duxelle – pigeon jus
Starter Duo of Scotch smoked salmon – classic smoked salmon – kiln roasted salmon – fennel ceviche – beetroot bilini – horseradish – crème fraîche
Main Slow cooked oxtail and shin of beef stew – baby onions and button mushrooms – bacon suet dumplings – English mustard mashed potato Dessert White chocolate and cardamom tart – dark chocolate sorbet – chocolate and coconut truffles
Alternatively, keep up to date by liking us on Facebook at f www.facebook.com/ whitingandhammond or following us on Twitter t @Whiting_Hammond
Main Côte de boeuf – braised celery – smoked potato mash – onion sauce Dessert Bread and butter pudding – clotted cream and orange marmalade
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Aspire to turn your home into a truly heavenly space with Hehku - the pioneers of creating luxury kitchens under bespoke glazed structures, transforming properties into exceptional, living environments. We are delighted to open our brand new Concept Centre in East Grinstead, where you can come and be inspired, with the renowned Hehku design and project management team on hand to provide a warm welcome and in-depth advice on how to turn the heart of your home into a transformational living space. We look forward to seeing you there!
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GASTROCHEFS
Guess who’s coming to dinner… Now more than ever, Britain is fast becoming a nation not only obsessed with food and drink, but increasingly, who’s making the meals. As the South East attracts its fair share of celebrity chefs to the area, we reveal which local and regional cooks have more than just Michelin stars in their eyes …
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t’s no secret that we’re blessed in the South East with an abundance of fresh produce, award-winning restaurants and sustainable producers right on our doorstop. What many gourmets might not realise, however, is that there’s no shortage of famous foodie faces in our part of the world either. Indeed, the counties of Kent, Sussex and Surrey have become increasingly popular spots for celebrity chefs to set up shop and call home. From TV personalities to Michelin-starred powerhouses, some of the biggest names in the food and drink industry have chosen our counties to settle down in. Such a wealth of star power where we live has certainly helped put the area on the map, making towns like Tunbridge Wells go-to destinations that boast some of the finest food on offer outside London.
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Whether it’s wine expertise or a mouth-watering meal from television’s finest, you can be sure to rub shoulders with notable names during your visit. To familiarise you with the stars behind the stoves, we’ve put together a who’s who of big hitters that might just make you do a double take the next time you’re eating in your favourite restaurant. Read on to find out more about 10 of the most acclaimed head turners…
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MARK SARGEANT Folkestone, Kent
RICHARD PHILLIPS Tunbridge Wells, Kent
Household names in local French cuisine don’t come much bigger than that of Richard Phillips, whose meticulous eye for detail is matched only by the elegance of his restaurants. Having worked alongside legends like the Roux brothers and Marco Pierre White, the Michelin-starred chef has also been a regular on Lorraine, Ready Steady Cook and Saturday Kitchen, while taking the Kent restaurant scene by storm. Today, he has four eateries to his name in the county, including Thackeray’s in Tunbridge Wells, Hengist in Aylesford, The Pearson’s Arms in Whitstable and The Windmill in Hollingbourne. www.thackerays-restaurant.co.uk
Local lad Mark Sargeant grew up in Larkfield in the heart of Kent. Over the course of an illustrious career, he has worked extensively with Gordon Ramsay, for whom he served as sous chef at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea, and head chef at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s in Mayfair, where he gained a Michelin star. Since then, he has opened two restaurants – Rocksalt and The Smokehouse – in Folkestone, The Duke William in Ickham and Morden and Lea in Soho, while hosting Saturday Cookbook for ITV and publishing his first cookbook, My Kind of Cooking. www.marksargeant.net
JAMES TANNER Tunbridge Wells, Kent
A local boy through and through and another Roux family graduate, James Tanner started his career at Brookers Oast in Tonbridge and once held the title of head chef at Right on the Green in Tunbridge Wells. In partnership with brother Chris, the Lorraine and Ready Steady Cook star opened his first restaurant, Tanners, in 1999 in Plymouth, before expanding with the Barbican Kitchen in 2006. Now, the siblings have moved closer to home to run The Kentish Hare in Bidborough, which focuses on the very best produce Kent’s natural larder has to offer. www.thekentishhare.com
OLLY SMITH
Lewes, East Sussex If you’re keen to know your stuff about wine, you won’t want to miss a tasting evening with Olly Smith. Celebrated for his infectious enthusiasm for the drink (and boundless knowledge of James Bond), the TV and radio personality, author and columnist makes regular appearances on BBC One’s Saturday Kitchen and ITV’s This Morning. A resident of Lewes, he also hosts special wine dinner events with Hotel du Vin across the South East and the UK, where he enlightens and entertains guests with his insightful observations and captivating sense of humour. www.ollysmith.com
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GASTROCHEFS
MICHEL ROUX JR Shipbourne, Kent
He might spend most of his time running the Michelin-starred Le Gavroche in London, but the star of Food and Drink and MasterChef: The Professionals was born in Pembury and raised in Shipbourne, where his father, Albert Roux, worked as a private chef for the Cazalet family. In addition to juggling duties as restaurant owner with
numerous TV appearances, he still finds time to return to our part of the world as patron of Kent Farmers’ Market Association, even going so far as to host a charity dinner at our very own Chaser Inn. www.michelroux.co.uk
ROSEMARY SHRAGER
Tunbridge Wells, Kent At the heart of The Pantiles in Tunbridge Wells, you’ll find Rosemary Shrager’s Cookery School, where the star of I’m a Celebrity… Get Me Out of Here! imparts her culinary wisdom through a range of one-day and weekend courses. As charismatic as she is extrovert, the talented chef was first spotted by heavyweights Pierre Koffmann and Jean-Christophe Novelli, with whom she developed her haute cuisine style. More than a decade in broadcasting has seen her appear on programmes like ITV’s Ladette to Lady, and she remains a champion of vocational training for professional chefs. www.rosemaryshrager.com
MATT GILLAN Horsham, West Sussex
You’ll no doubt recognise Matt Gillan from the most recent series of Great British Menu, in which he won the London South East heat for his ambitious vision and technical prowess in the kitchen. Off camera, Matt can be found cooking up a storm at his Michelin-starred restaurant, Matt Gillan at The Pass, which is housed in the luxury South Lodge Hotel in Horsham. Here, he has developed the idea of the ‘chef’s table’ into an open plan conceptual experience that places a maximum of 28 diners right at the heart of the action. www.southlodgehotel.co.uk
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EXPERIENCE
AWARD WINNING ACCOUNTANCY Proud to be part of the Whiting and Hammond Team
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GASTROCHEFS PAUL ELLIS
Worthing, East Sussex As the former owner of the famous Steakhouse Tapas & Grill in Findon, Paul Ellis has made his name working with some of the UK’s top chefs. Nowadays, he keeps himself busy with The Ellis Cookery School, offering bespoke catering services as a private chef and touring food and drink festivals across the country. His signature cooks include a high-quality hog roast and The Manwich – a delicious rump steak and meatballs, cooked in a special sauce, served in a baguette and washed down with ‘Fire Water’, a sugar-free drink made with chilli and ginger. www.findonsteakhouse.co.uk
JILLY GOOLDEN
Ashdown Forest, East Sussex Over in East Sussex, you can sample a variety of distinctive wines with renowned critic, journalist and TV personality, Jilly Goolden. Known for her abstract descriptions of wine tasting appreciation, Goolden co-presented BBC Two’s Food and Drink for 18 years and has appeared on the likes of I’m a Celebrity… Get Me Out of Here! and Celebrity MasterChef. At the Wine Room, held in her home in the beautiful Ashdown Forest, budding oenophiles will spend a relaxing five hours tasting a dozen wines, accompanied by Jilly’s expert knowledge, passion and guidance along the way. www.jillygoolden.com
TONY TOBIN Reigate, Surrey
Well-known to viewers of Ready Steady Cook, Tony Tobin appeared on the programme more than 300 times in its 16-year run and has developed an enviable reputation at The Dining Room in Reigate. Classic ingredients are combined in new and exciting ways that redefine the ‘modern British’ style, thanks in no small part to Tony’s years of experience working with influential Michelin-starred chef, Nico Ladenis. As chef patron, he ensures a personal and attentive service, combined with the gastronomic quality of top London restaurants, set against the gentle, relaxed surroundings of a Surrey market town. www.tonytobinrestaurants.co.uk
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EVERY DAY
together
There’s nothing like seeing two people in love say their vows and tie the knot on the big day of their dreams – for Matt and Emma Lewery, it was exactly that and more. The bride tells us how the happy couple met and started married life together at Stanmer House in Brighton earlier this year… H ow did the two of you meet? Matt and I met in 2011 when I moved to Brighton and happened to become his new neighbour! It didn’t take long for us to notice each other and before long we had our first date when we went to see The Lady Boys of Bangkok in May 2011 – not your usual place to go on a first date, but we like to be different! We ended up spending more or less every day together (a bit hard not to when you’re neighbours!), and I soon fell pregnant with our daughter Sophia, who made up four beautiful children between us, along with Callum, Demi and Leon. What was the proposal like? On Saturday February 16 2013, we decided to go for a Valentine’s weekend break to South Lodge Hotel in Horsham. We arrived, checked in and had a look around, and Matt suggested we go for a walk. We took a little picnic, a bottle of Champagne and grabbed some Wellington boots. We strolled
through the woods and along to the lake, where we sat and enjoyed the amazing view. Matt poured us both a glass of Champagne, got down on one knee, pulled out the most beautiful ring and asked me to marry him. Obviously I said yes, with a big smile on my face! Why did you choose Stanmer House as a venue? There wasn’t any other place we wanted to get married; Stanmer House was our first and only choice. It’s a beautiful place with stunning views of the hills and countryside. We organised a meeting with their events and marketing manager, Rebecca, who was very helpful and set a date for Saturday July 11 2015. Tell us about the big day After all the planning, which we both found very exciting, the day finally came. It was a gorgeous sunny day and everything was just perfect. We went for a vintage theme with pastel colours
of pinks, greens, ivories and whites and vintage pink roses for the flowers. Were you happy with the overall look of the wedding? The decorating was left to the lovely Rebecca and Tia at Stanmer House, as we had already dropped off the decorations to them the day before. We were slightly nervous about leaving it all to someone else, but talking it through with the girls made us feel much better. They knew how we wanted it to look and managed to get it just right, from the flowers and bunting to the pompoms, candles and all the finishing touches. We were so very happy when we saw what they had done for us on the day. Any particular highlights? One of the best things for us was the videographer, Martin Walsh, from I-Do Productions, who was just amazing and captured everything. We have been left
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Suppliers Dress and veil: White Leaf Boutique, Brighton www.whiteleafbridal.com Headpiece: Jon Richard, Debenhams www.jonrichard.com/www. debenhams.com
‘It was a gorgeous day and everything was just perfect’
Bridesmaid dresses: Velvet Birdcage, Worthing www.velvetbirdcage.co.uk Flower girl dresses: Debenhams www.debenhams.com Suits: Dickies Suit Hire, Brighton www.dickies-suit-hire.co.uk Flowers: centrepieces and white Chiavari chairs: Pollen4hire, Hove www.pollen4hire.co.uk Cake: Denise at Cakes the Difference, Patcham www.cakesthedifference.co.uk Floral bunting: Beautiful Bunting, Lewes www.beautifulbunting.co.uk Cars: Coxham Classic Cars Videographer: Martin Walsh at I-Do Productions, Hove www.i-doproductions.com
with the most wonderful footage of our day; every time we watch it, it’s like reliving our wedding again. Who else helped make the day memorable? Our photographer Zara Price made so much effort during the day and there was certainly no photo opportunity missed. Her friendly personality made everyone feel relaxed and happy. We also had Sax & Honey, a singer and saxophonist, who played as soon as the ceremony was finished, until 7.30pm. They were just perfect. Plus, we hired two vintage Rileys, which suited our vintage theme perfectly. Our driver’s name was Ted Preston and he certainly looked the part! Did a lot of friends and family attend? We had 100 guests for the day and our ceremony started at 2.30pm in the gorgeous Henry Pelham room. We enjoyed a glass of Pimm’s for greeting drinks, then went on to the marquee outside for the hog roast, speeches and plenty of wine. We had
private use of the lawns, where we had the day band set up and a vintage ice cream bike, which contained the most delicious ice creams for dessert. Finally, how did you see out the day and start your married life together? The evening entertainment started at 7.30pm, with DJs Jonno Cox and Rich from Fickle Events. They set up in the ceremony room, where we had the cutting of the cake and our first dance to The Way You Look Tonight by Frank Sinatra. We had our honeymoon in Lake Garda, Italy, which was wonderful, and would like to thank all at Stanmer House for making our day so perfect! To find out more about our wedding services, visit www.stanmerhouse.co.uk, email events@stanmerhouse.co.uk or phone 01273 680 400. Alternatively, keep up to date by liking us on Facebook at www.facebook. com/StanmerHouse or following us on Twitter @StanmerHouse
Photography: Zara Price Photography www.zarapricephotography.com Day band: Sax & Honey, Bedford www.saxandhoney.com DJ: Fickle Events, Brighton www.fickleevents.co.uk Ice cream bike: Jane Capaldi www.gelatogemelli.co.uk Birdcage for table plan, vintage suitcase, Kilner jars and pompoms: The Wedding of My Dreams, Coventry www.theweddingofmydreams.co.uk Pink rose garland, homemade wedding favours and invites: Hobbycraft www.hobbycraft.co.uk
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Alston Electrical were called to my house when my kitchen lights stopped working. They arrived on the same day, rectified the problem and worked in a tidy and professional manner. I would definitely recommend them to friends and family and use them again. Thank you
Connie Fischer, Southborough
CheGf<atrade.com Where reputation matters
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Stunning imagery and step-by-step instructions are combined to help you become a better cook in this beautifully presented app. Every recipe comes complete with a list of hand selected accessories and gadgets, available for in-app purchase, while dozens of cooking techniques, tips and tricks will give you the necessary tools to create those perfect, professional looking dishes each and every time.
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A total of 84 recipes are included in this beautiful, elegantly designed culinary guide. Steps are short and straightforward, meaning both novice cooks and more experienced chefs will be able to make show-stopping meals with ease. Over 700 high resolution photographs accompany each dish, from shots of ingredients you’ll need to get started, to the final product so that you know what to aim for.
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A great source of cooking inspiration is the people you know, which is why this vibrant gourmet community is just the thing. Over 150,000 recipes come from fellow users all over the world, so you can get connected, learn new skills and make new friends along the way. Plus, a real-time messaging platform means you can pose questions and get a response within minutes.
ALLRECIPES VIDEO COOKBOOK BY ALL RECIPES, INC. (FREE)
Here’s a free video cookbook that lets you watch top recipes being made step by step, as well as pause, skip and go back whenever you want when putting the dish together. Any particular favourites can be saved to your Allrecipes Recipe Box, and videos are organised by meal/course, meaning you’ll have no problem locating exactly what you’re in the mood for in no time at all.
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GASTROGADGETS
Gourmet gadgets & gizmos Klarstein Capricciosa pizza oven www.klarstein.com
With Christmas just around the corner, it’s time to start thinking about what to buy your friends and family. Whether you’re after a healthy food processor to jump-start that New Year’s resolution, or some fun meals and snacks for the kids to make all year round, here’s our pick of top gastro gifts
insulated cool touch handle
For the ambitious hobby baker and professional pizza maker
made of real terracotta
£6
5.3
4
removable 30cm baking tray Go from an ambitious hobby baker to a truly professional pizza maker with the Klarstein Capricciosa! The furnace makes it easy to prepare dough-based baked goods such as pizza, calzones, flatbreads and quiches. Thanks to the included cutter, up to six mini pizzas are easier to make, encouraging children and adults to bake goods in all sizes. Even browning and heat distribution is ensured by two heating elements for top and bottom heat.
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Artesa six-person party fondue set
10-piece stainless steel juicer and food processor
www.kitchencraft.co.uk
Put the finishing touches to your evening of elegance with this stylish fondue set, complete with a rotating wooden stand so that friends, family and guests can all enjoy! Ideal for a cheese, meat or chocolate fondue (although we would definitely not recommend mixing all three at the same time!), the stainless steel fondue set looks gorgeous on a dining table, sitting beautifully in both classic and contemporary styled homes. This set is the perfect choice for dinner parties.
9.9
9
Klarstein Foodfather IV
www.klarstein.com
Revolutionise your cooking with multi-functionality and innovative, space-saving design that makes preparing fresh drinks, soups and sauces a walk in the park. In addition to 800W of power and a stainless steel body, the set boasts a 1.2- litre mixing bowl with an assortment of blades and grater attachments. With an intuitive control panel with LCD display and blue illuminated controls, plus continuous speed adjustment and three reversible attachments, it’s a breeze to use in the kitchen.
300ml stainless steel thermoflask
Two small napkins
Handpresso Wild Hybrid outdoor coffee maker set www.thedesigngiftshop.com
This outdoor set has all you need to enjoy your espresso on the move. A stylish bag contains the very essence of nomadic espresso – the small, portable and manual espresso machine, Handpresso Wild Hybrid. It works without electricity, using only hot water and either easy to handle E.S.E. coffee pods or ground coffee. An essential gift for coffee lovers when out and about.
1 2.6 £7
£7
Includes six porcelain bowls, as well as six stainless steel forks and spoons
four unbreakable cups
Make up to nine ice pops before the base needs to be frozen again
No electricity required
Zoku triple quick pop maker
£217
.33
www.lakeland.co.uk Store this compact base in your freezer and you’ll be ready to make frozen pops in minutes. Requiring no electricity, it ensures rapid freezing from the second you fill the three moulds; add one of the reusable lolly sticks and wait a mere seven to nine minutes for your treat to freeze. The world is your oyster when it comes to flavours too, from freshly-squeezed juices to ice cream centres.
£39.
99
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GASTROSUPPLIERS LISTING
WHITING & HAMMOND ARE PROUD TO WORK WITH AND RECOMMEND THE FOLLOWING SUPPLIERS AND ADVERTISERS
BALDWINS
HENRY PAUL FUNERALS
www.baldwinstravel.co.uk / 01892 511 999
www.henrypaulfunerals.co.uk / 01892 825 505
BIBENDUM WINE LTD.
I.A.HARRIS
www.bibendum-wine.co.uk | 020 7449 4100
www.iaharris.co.uk / 0207 622 7687
EDIBLE OIL
KENT FARMERS MARKET ASSOC.
www.edibleoildirect.co.uk | 01797 364 100
www.kfma.org.uk / 01732 833 976
FENTON CHANDLER
LARKINS
www.fentonchandler.co.uk / 01252 851 726
www.larkinsbrewery.co.uk / 01892 870 328
FREEDRINKS LTD – zeo
PENSHURST FINE FOODS
www.drinkzeo.com / 0207 268 3015
01892 664 044
FROBISHERS
RENCRAFT
www.frobishers.com / 01392 825 333
www.rencraft.co.uk / 01732 762 682
FULLER’S
ROYAL TUNBRIDGE WELLS SPRING WATER
www.fullers.co.uk / 020 8996 2000
www.royalspring.co.uk / 0845 602 5690
GARY A. SARGEANT FCA
SALCOMBE DAIRY
www.gary-sargeant.co.uk / 01322 614 681
www.salcombedairy.co.uk / 01732 851 523
G COLLINS & SONS
WALSH BROS JEWELLERS
www.gcollinsandsons.com / 01892 534018
www.walshbros-jewellers.co.uk / 01892 514 519
HAYWARDS BUTCHER
ZONAL
www.haywardsbutchers.co.uk / 01732 355 611
www.zonal.co.uk / 0800 131 3400 / info@zonal.co.uk
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GASTROCONTACTS
We’d love to hear from you… All the names and numbers you’ll need to get in touch with Whiting & Hammond...
THE LITTLE BROWN JUG
THE KINGS HEAD
Chiddingstone Causeway,
Westerham Road, Bessels Green,
Tonbridge, Kent TN11 8JJ
Sevenoaks, Kent TN13 2QA
Manager: Janet Webb
Manager: Jamie Owens
Head Chef: Steve Ednie
Head Chef: Jonny Gain
Tel: 01892 870 318
Tel: 01732 452 081
Email: enquiries@thelittlebrownjug.co.uk
Email: enquiries@kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk
Website: www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk
Website: www.kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk
THE MARK CROSS INN
THE CHASER INN
THE BLUE BALL
Stumble Hill, Shipbourne,
Stumble Hill, Shipbourne,
Tonbridge, Kent TN11 9PE
Tonbridge, Kent TN11 9PE
Manager: Craig White
Manager: Martin Slocombe
Manager: Amy Glenie
Head Chef: Daniel Curtis
Head Chef: Mark Prout
Head Chef: Amos Burrows
Tel: 01732 810 360
Tel: 01732 810 360
Tel: 01892 852 423
Email: enquiries@thechaser.co.uk
Email: enquiries@thechaser.co.uk
Email: enquiries@themarkcross.co.uk
Website: www.thechaser.co.uk
Website: www.thechaser.co.uk
Website: www.themarkcross.co.uk
THE CRICKETERS INN
THEFARM@FRIDAYSTREET
Wrotham Road, Meopham,
15 Friday Street, Langney,
Gravesend, Kent DA13 0QA
Eastbourne, East Sussex BN23 8AP
Manager: Scott Hawkes
Manager: Paul Worman
Head Chef: Paul Finnigan
Head Chef: TBC
Tel: 01474 812 163
Tel: 01323 766 049
Email: enquiries@thecricketersinn.co.uk
Email: enquiries@farmfridaystreet.com
Website: www.thecricketersinn.co.uk
Website: www.farmfridaystreet.com
Mark Cross,Nr Tunbridge Wells, East Sussex TN6 3NP
STANMER HOUSE Stanmer Park, Brighton BN1 9QA Manager: Mark Barrett Head Chef: Justin Gillam Events Manager: Rebecca Weller Tel: 01273 680 400 Email: enquiries@stanmerhouse.co.uk Website: www.stanmerhouse.co.uk
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