2011
Premier Issue!
Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide Discover what’s on our tables
Wine Touring in Twenty Valley • Best B&Bs • Food Festivals for Everyone Must-Visit Farmers’ Markets • Evergreen Brick Works • On the Apple Pie Trail
Experience The Taste of
ONTARIO’S SPECIALTY CHEESE Ask For These Ontario Produced Specialty Cheeses Made From 100% Canadian Milk At Your Local Specialty Cheese Shop & Where You Dine. Niagara Gold St-Albert 7 Year Aged Cheddar Comfort Cream
Evanturel
ST. ALBERT, ONTARIO
St-Albert Cheese Co-operative Inc., enjoys worldwide renown for exceptional quality cheeses, which we have made for over 116 years. Since 1894, five generations of dairy farmers and craftsmen have worked to maintain St-Albert’s long tradition of quality. The products are all naturally aged. The unique taste of St-Albert cheese is internationally known, whether it be aged or mild cheddars or their famous curds.
Niagara Gold is a semi-soft, washed rind cheese fashioned after recipes developed by the Trappist Monks of the Loire Valley. This is a cheese with nutty, earthy overtones and mellow, buttery flavours. This luscious cheese is delicately mild and sweet when young and gains pungency and piquant qualities with age. The rind may be eaten or JORDAN STATION, ONTARIO trimmed depending on your taste.
THORNLOE, ONTARIO
Evanturel is a supple, bloomy rind cheese with a striking streak of vegetable ash running through it. The ash lends an earthy tone to this beautifully rich, mushroomy flavoured cheese with a fresh milk finish. The ash actually draws some
7 Year Aged Cheddar has a very pleasant stronger aroma and more slightly acidic note than a younger 5 year aged cheddar. This cheese has a drier more crumbly texture, given its low moisture content. When eating, you will get slightly acidic note that will develop into wonderful fruity milk note characteristics as it warms in your mouth. It will be slightly buttery and exhibit crystallized granules. Comfort Cream is a camembert-style soft, white bloomy rind cheese with a silky, creamy, golden interior. Rich flavours of fresh truffles prevail with an intense, buttery palate and a long, tangy finish. This delicate and luscious artisanal cheese is hand salted, hand turned and hand wrapped.
of the water out of the cheese, making it very creamy. Evanturel is an artisan cheese - handmade in very small batches.
Enjoy The Great Taste Of Specialty Cheeses Made From 100% Canadian Milk At These Restaurants: Canoe, Toronto 416 364 0054 www.oliverbonacini.com/Canoe.aspx Nota Bene, Toronto 416 977 6400 www.notabenerestaurant.com Royal York, Toronto 416 368 2511 www.fairmont.com/royalyork One, Toronto 416 961 9600 www.onehazelton.com
Black Hoof, Toronto 416 551 8854 Cava, Toronto 416 979 9918 www.cavarestaurant.ca Bymark, Toronto 416 777 1144 www.bymark.ca Drake, Toronto 416 531 5042 www.thedrakehotel.ca
Inn on the Twenty, Lincoln 905 562 7313 www.innonthetwenty.com Vineland Estates, Vineland 905 562 7088 www.vineland.com Cowbell, Toronto 416 849 1095 www.cowbellrestaurant.ca Harbord Room, Toronto 416 962 8989 www.theharbordroom.com
welcome Editor Dick Snyder Art Director Craig Sinclair Assistant Editor Noelle Munaretto Designer Pamela Reynolds Contributors Pamela Cuthbert Suresh Doss Ron Eade Val Howes Chris Johns Ivy Knight Kerry Knight Signe Langford John Lee Joshna Maharaj Amy Rosen Anita Stewart
Welcome to the Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide
Photography and Illustration Laura Berman Jo Dickins Suresh Doss Noelle Munaretto Sue Todd Publisher Paul Alsop Associate Publisher Rebecca LeHeup Advertising Paul Alsop Rebecca LeHeup Wendy Lyall Inquires: 647-827-1705 or 613-471-0102 Printed in Ontario. Circulation: 100,000 copies The Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide is a partnership between the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) and CityBites Media Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. All information is current at press time. The publisher cannot and does not guarantee the accuracy of all information and will not be responsible for errors, changes or omissions. OCTA Executive Director Rebecca LeHeup Operations Manager Noelle Munaretto Communications Intern Agatha Podgorski ontarioculinary.com
The true taste of a place is rooted in its terroir. It starts with agriculture and the people who grow our food. It moves to the artisans who craft the food into tastes such as wine, cheese and beer. It travels to the plate through the skill of cook and chef. We celebrate it at our tables, and in our communities through farmers’ markets, festivals and events. We invite you to come and explore our farms, our restaurants and our communities across the province. Whether you whet your appetite with a Wine Trail Ride in Windsor-Essex Pelee Island, trek the Chocolate Trail in Stratford, nibble your way along the Apple Pie Trail in Collingwood or tour the Niagara Culinary Trail or Prince Edward County Taste Trail, there are so many great ways to “savour” Ontario. Over the past decade, destinations and the businesses within them have taken the
CityBites Media Inc. 24 Dalhousie St. Suite 200 Toronto, ON M5B 2A5 647-827-1705 citybites.ca
approach of highlighting farm-to-fork philosophy. With a variety of culinary programs that
Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance 2600 Skymark Ave. Suite 8-201 Mississauga, ON L4W 5B2 613-471-0102 ontarioculinary.com
world the menu of culinary tourism experiences our bountiful province has to offer. We hope
CityBites Media Inc. is a subsidiary of Integrated Digital Media Group Inc. (IDMG Inc.). IDMG Inc. Paul Alsop Managing Director (Toronto)
deliver authentic Ontario taste experiences—such as the Savour programs for Ontario, Ottawa, Muskoka and Elgin—finding our flavours is easy. With this inaugural Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide, we are pleased to showcase to the you come and enjoy discovering what’s on our table!
Bon appetite, Rebecca LeHeup
Paul Alsop
Dick Snyder
Executive Director
Publisher
Editor
Ontario Culinary
Ontario Culinary
Ontario Culinary
Tourism Alliance
Adventure Guide & CityBites
Adventure Guide & CityBites
Donald House Managing Director (Calgary) Dick Snyder Partner (Toronto)
Cover Images - Top Left: Wine Council of Ontario for Wine Country Ontario™ ; Middle Left: Konrad Ejbich; Bottom Middle: (Food) JP Challet - ICI Bistro (Photography) Laura Berman - GreenFuse Photos; All other Images: Laura Berman - GreenFuse Photos;
Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011 > 3
2011
Contents 6 8
Toronto Culinary neighbourhoods, the Ossington strip and gourmet hotels
Taste of Ontario Chefs’ House, Windsor Wine Trail, celebrate chardonnay, craft beer tour, Oxford County, tour wine country, the Muskokas, great B&Bs, bike train
14 16 18 21 23 26 27 28 31 32 34
Brick Works A historic Toronto brickyard is converted into a tasty playground
Market Fresh Ontario’s farmers’ markets are truly authentic
Food Festivals Good times and great food and wine
Twenty Valley Touring one of Ontario’s premier wine areas
Langdon Hall Visiting a Relais & Chateaux in Cambridge
A Day in Stratford Exploring the culinary arts in a cute little town
Play, Eat, Wander Relaxing in Peterborough and the Kawarthas
Culinary Capital Ottawa’s dining scene reaches for the future
Owen • Sound Tho
Bl Mou
Wellingto County
Norfolk A romp in Ontario’s garden
Waterloo Kitchener
PEC Foodies flock to Prince Edward County Crunch! Where to get your apple a day
• Stratford
Index Bala 11 Barrie 11 Beamsville 21 Bloomfield 32 Blue Mountains 34 Bracebridge 11 Cambridge 18, 23 Collingwood 34 Etobicoke/Mississauga 18 Forest 10 Gravenhurst 11 Guelph 24 Hamilton 16 Hastings 10 Jordan 21 Keene 27
Woodstock • Simcoe 19 Kingston 16 Stratford 10, 26 Kitchener 24 Thornbury 34 Lake Erie North Shore 12 Toronto 6-8, 11, 14, 16, 18 London 16 Twenty Valley 12, 21 Muskoka 10 Uxbridge 27 Niagara 12, 18 Vanleek Hill 11 Niagara on the Lake 12 Vineland 21 Norfolk County 19 Vittoria 19 Norfolk County (Simcoe) 10 Waterford 19 Ottawa 28 Waterloo 16, 24 Owen Sound 16 Wellington 10, 32 Oxford County 8 Windsor-Essex 12 Pelee Island 12 Winona (Hamilton) 18 Peterborough/Kawarthas 27 Woodstock 8 Picton 32 Prince Edward County 12, 18, 32
4 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
• Forest • Sarnia
O Co
London •
Windsor-Essex County Pelee Island
Ottawa •
Muskoka • Bala
Vanleek Hill •
• Bracebridge
• Gravenhurst
• ornbury
• Collingwood
lue untain Barrie •
Peterborough • Keene •
Kingston •
Prince Edward County Picton • Wellington • • Bloomfield
Hastings • • Uxbridge
on y
Illustration: Sue Todd
• Guelph • Mississauga • • • Cambridge Vineland Hamilton • • Niagara-on-the-Lake Beamsville • • • Jordan Oxford Twenty Valley • ounty Niagara • Waterford Falls • Norfolk Simcoe County • Vittoria •
TORONTO > City Food
Stroll and Eat Good things in good ’hoods
St. Clair West This street (head for the St. Clair/Christie intersection) may be home to some of the most diverse global flavours anywhere in the city. The Stockyards (699 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-658-9666) is a new neighbour,
By Joshna Maharaj
serving thoughtfully prepared, big-meat sandwiches. One of the best latte and St. Clair Ave. W., 416-656-7246) and I
The pocket of South Asian shops and
can’t get enough of Khmer Thai’s golden
restaurants on Gerrard East (head for the
beef (1018 St. Clair Ave. W., 416-654-0609).
Greenwood to Coxwell stretch) has been
There’s also the old school Churrasco of
a thriving hub of South Asian food and
St. Clair (679 Saint Clair Ave. W., 416-658-
culture for more than 30 years. Stop at
0652), where Portuguese-style grilled-and-
Udupi Coffee House (1460 Gerrard St. E.,
roasted chickens get a basting of tangy
416-405-8189) for a perfect ghee masala
piri-piri sauce that drips into the sides of
dosa (lentil crepe stuffed with potato
rice and potatoes. And just south of St.
curry). Head to Lahore Tikka House (1365
Clair on Christie is the Wychwood Barns,
Gerrard St. E., 416-406-1668) for tandoor
home to The Stop’s Green Barn (1884
deliciousness, tasty curries and signature
Davenport Rd., 416-652-7867), which
almond kulfi (rich ice cream). On the street,
offers some of the most innovative food-
you’ll find vendors selling barbecued corn
based community development anywhere,
rubbed with lime, chilies and salt.
including a year-round farmers’ market on Saturday mornings.
Leslieville If you manage to get a table, brunch at Bonjour Brioche (812 Queen St. E., 416-406-1250) is perfectly French and Laura Berman - GreenFuse Photos
Laura Berman - GreenFuse Photos
croissant combos is at Pain Perdu (736 Little India on Gerrard Street
heavenly, though Lady Marmalade Kensington Market
(898 Queen St. E., 647-351-7645) is a
One of the loveliest things about Kensington
worthy rival. Here (head for Queen East
Market (head for the Augusta/Nassau
around Carlaw), are places like Table 17
intersection) is the wide diversity of food
(782 Queen St. E., 416-519-1851) Pulp
experiences. There’s the takeout: Big Fat
Kitchen (1129 Queen St. E., 416-461-4612)
Burrito (285 Augusta Ave., 416-913-7487)
and Ruby Watch Co. (730 Queen St. E.,
gives you full bang for your buck, and the
416-465-0100) where chefs are using
Chinatown
Patty King’s (187 Baldwin St., 416-977-3191)
their food to make statements. I can
There are some things that you can only
spicy beef patties and doubles are my usual
never resist stopping in at Ed’s Real
find in Chinatown (head for the Spadina/
snack on market days. House of Spice (190
Scoop (920 Queen St. E., 416-406-2525)
Dundas intersection), and delicious dumplings
Augusta Ave., 416-593-9724) carries an
for a sugar cone. Shopping for food is
are one of them. Mother’s Dumplings
extensive array of spices and pantry goods,
just as thoughtful, with Rowe Farms
(421 Spadina Ave., 416-217-2008) is a city
and every time I shop at Oxford Fruit
(2126 Queen St. E., 416-699-4383) and
favourite. Through the window at The
Market (255 Augusta Ave., 416-979-1796)
Hooked (888 Queen St. E., 416-828-1861),
Dumpling House (328 Spadina Ave.,
my bill is much less than expected. Global
the city’s first sustainable fish and sea-
416-596-8898) you can watch that perfect
Cheese (76 Kensington Ave., 416-593-9251)
food shop. And if you need a caffeine fix,
steam/fry of endless pans of delicious
will let you sample anything, and will send
pop into one of several coffee shops—
dumplings. Kom Jug Yuen (371 Spadina
you on your way with a big hunk of garlicky
Mercury (915 Queen St. E., 647-435-4779)
Ave., 416-977-4079) boasts in neon that
Boursin on a breadstick. Torito Tapas Bar
and Dark Horse (682 Queen St. E.,
they have North America’s best BBQ pork.
(276 Augusta Ave., 416-961-7373) serves
647-436-3460)— in the ’hood that takes
I haven’t tasted much of the competition,
some of the best ceviche anywhere, as well
café very seriously.
but this stuff is good.
as patatas bravas (fingerling potatoes with
•
chorizo) that will make your knees weak. Joshna Maharaj is a food activist, chef and writer. 6 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
> The Strip
> Hotels
Eat. Play. Stay. By Signe Langford
Hôtel Le Germain Toronto Vibe: An oasis in the core, with soaring glass walls, warm wood, cool steel and natural light. Food: Victor Restaurant and Lounge
Connie Tsang
celebrates the seasons, social dining and this city’s ethnic diversity. Chef David Chrystian’s Taste Toronto menu of shared plates is served familystyle—or à la carte. Mains $16-$31.
The Drake Hotel
Stay: Sleek yet comfortable; 122 rooms
Vibe: Hip, vibrant, alive with culture,
non-smoking, pet-friendly, and wheel-
art and music. Expect a happening
chair accessible. 24-hour gym and room
or concert every night.
service, no pool. $250-$950.
Food: Chef Anthony Rose crafts uniquely
30 Mercer St., 1-866-345-9501, germaintoronto.com
cosmopolitan farm to fork cuisine in a room that strikes the perfect mix of elegance and cool. Also, raw and sushi bars, casual café. Mains $17-$32. Stay: From Crashpads to Suites, The Illustration: Sue Todd
Drake’s 19 rooms are as eclectic as the Laura Berman - GreenFuse Photos
clientele. Perks include in-room spa treatments, free wifi, adult “pleasure packs.” No pool, no pets, non-smoking. Not wheelchair accessible. $189-$339.
Happening ’hood
1150 Queen St. W., 1-866-372-5387, thedrakehotel.ca
Ossington has it all—and then some
The Fairmont Royal York Vibe: A 1929 Grand Dame resplendent
Gladstone Hotel
in Old World opulence. The lobby buzzes,
Vibe: Toronto’s oldest continuously
#221 Pizzeria Libretto Pizzas are blistered in a 900°F, wood-fired oven hand-built in Naples. ’Nuff said? Chef Rocco Agostino leaves no pizza stone unturned in his bid to make the city’s best pies. 416-532-8000 pizzerialibretto.com
with locals and travellers alike taking a
operating hotel, reborn as an arts centre.
moment in a cosseting wingback.
You’re as likely to share the karaoke
Food: Exec Chef David Garcelon tends
stage with a hipster as an old timer.
#188 Goed Eten Belgian-born Johan Maes does Brussels-style waffles, from Belgian chocolate and Chantilly cream to a waffle-pressed peameal sandwich. 416-533-3213, goedeten.ca
the kitchens—along with the roof herb
Food: Exec chef and local food hero
garden and apiary. At Epic—one of five
Marc Breton connects country and city
restaurants and four lounges—indulge
via a French-Canadian-inspired local
#135 Reposado Bar & Lounge This is the temple that tequila built—with a tapas menu of chorizo, spicy pickles and tequila-cured salmon. 416-532-6474, reposadobar.com
in Chef de Cuisine Timothy Palmer’s
menu. Check out Harvest Wednesday
Ocean Wise certified, local-seasonal
tasting menus. Late night eats. Mains
menu. Mains $24-$58.
$12-$19.
By Kerry Knight
#93 Boehmer Chef Paul Boehmer crafts a menu around buzzwords like “ethical,” “sustainable” and “local”—and means it. 416-531-3800, boehmer.ca #92 Delux Restaurant Corrina Mozo’s Cuban heritage shines through in her pressed Cubano sandwich: cider-cured pork shoulder, ham and Gruyère. 416-537-0134, deluxrestaurant.ca #72 Union Restaurant An homage to Paris. Chef Teo Paul obsesses over local ingre-dients delivered à la Française. 416-850-0093, union72.ca #13 Sweaty Betty’s The folks make you feel right at home at this watering hole. Great beers on tap, tunes from a jolly jukebox and the best hidden patio. 416-535-6861
Stay: All 1,365 rooms are classically
Stay: A Victorian restoration with
luxurious. Smoking and non, wheelchair
37 one-of-a-kind, artist-designed
accessible, pet friendly. Business
rooms. Non-smoking, wheelchair
centre, spa and health club with pool,
accessible. Complimentary off-site
whirlpool and sauna. $209-$1,109.
gym, no pets. $139-$475.
100 Front St. W., 1-866-540-4489 fairmont.com/royalyork
1214 Queen St. W., 416-531-4635, gladstonehotel.com
Signe Langford is a chef and food writer.
Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011 > 7
Taste of ontario
School Meets Restaurant Taste the future at Chefs’ House By Chris Johns The future stars of the culinary world are honing their knives and their skills at a very special restaurant in downtown Toronto. George Brown Chef School Director John Higgins explains this unique operation— and how everyone can have a taste.
User’s Guide
What is Chefs’ House? It’s a student-run restaurant.
Where the people eat and the students learn.
Can anyone eat there? Anyone can go Monday through Friday, lunch or dinner. We have private events at the weekend. We’ll also bring in young talent that’s
The Chefs’ House 215 King St. E., 416-415-2260 thechefshouse.com Mon-Fri., lunch and dinner. Tasting menus from $19-$45
been out in the industry for six or seven years, who are starting to make a name for themselves.
all around the restaurant, so you can see how
We bring in chefs from around the world and
your food is prepared.
showcase them, as well. We’ve had guest appearances from Gordon Ramsay, Jamie Oliver, Marco Pierre White and Canadian talents like Jamie Kennedy and Michael Stadtländer. Anyone can come to those meals, also.
How does this operation benefit the culinary community? Anything that’s relevant to food, we want to embrace it. For me and the Chefs’ House it doesn’t have to be caviar, truffles and foie
Does it feel like a classroom environment?
gras. If we can find the perfect potato and pair
We run this like a real restaurant. This is real-
it with olive oil or some butter, some salt and
time learning at its best. Also, the restaurant
some pepper, that’s just as good. The simple
is completely open. So as soon as you walk in
things are the hardest things to do and that’s
you’re right in the kitchen. We have cameras in
what we try to teach. It’s all about the quality
the ceiling and they’re projected onto screens
and the integrity of the profession.
•
What’s up in Oxford? A new generation is hard at work By Rebecca LeHeup The seeds of an emerging culinary destination have been sown in Oxford County. Two hours west of Toronto, the region has earned its fame as the dairy capital of Canada. But change is afoot. It’s time for the next generation of artisan producers and chefs. Eric Boyer of SixThirtyNine in Woodstock is running his 28-seat restaurant alongside his mother, Pauline. The duo has crafted a lovely space that includes a four-seat chefs’ table in the kitchen. Eric has close relationships with growers and producers in the region. >> Shep Ysselstein of Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese, slated to open in summer 2011, is taking the
8 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
traditions of Swiss cheesemaking craft and incorporating them into his family farm. He has plans for a viewing room and educational dairy programming for visitors. >> Oxford County celebrates local tastes in September with Oxfordlicious—a sensational opportunity to be
•
inspired by chefs who embrace the field-tofork philosophy. SixThirtyNine 639 Peel Street, Woodstock 519-536-9602 sixthirtynine.com
Gunn’s Hill Artisan Cheese 445172 Gunns Hill Rd., Woodstock 519-532-9189 oxfordlicious.com
The Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide is designed to provide inspiration and information for touring and exploring the province. Using Toronto as a hub, each page of the guide gives succinct travel details to get your started. We recommend you gather your own specific directions and information before setting out. Below are some resources for getting around. Via Rail Operates province-wide. Major connection points include Ottawa, Toronto, Kingston, Niagara Falls, London, Windsor. 1-888-VIA-RAIL (1-888-842-7245) viarail.ca Rental Cars Major operators at Pearson International Airport, Union Station, Hamilton International Airport and Toronto Island Airport. Thrifty Call Rental 1-800-THRIFTY (847-4389) thrifty.com National Car Rental 1-877-222-9058 nationalcar.ca Avis Car Rental 1-800-879-2847 avis.ca Entreprise Car Rental 1-800-261-7331 enterprise.com Public Transit TTC: The Toronto Transit Commission operates subway, bus, streetcar and rail transit. 416-393-4636 ttc.ca Go Transit: A network of GO buses and trains spans the province. Operates out of various train stations. 1-888-GET ON GO (438-6646) gotransit.com Buses Greyhound 1-800-661-TRIP (8747) greyhound.ca Megabus 1-800-461-7661 ca.megabus.com Coach Canada 1-800-461-7661 coachcanada.com
Oxfordlicious 580 Bruin Blvd., Woodstock 519-539-9800 Ext. 3355 oxfordlicious.com
BIXI Bikes BIXI is a short-term bicycle rental operation with stations around the city. Take out a bike as many times as you want for 30 minutes or less with no additional fees; usage fees for longer trips apply. Toll free: 1-877-412-BIXI (2494) toronto.bixi.com
Taste of ontario
Brilliant B&Bs Just a few of Ontario’s wonderful rest stops By Noelle Munaretto Many of Ontario’s B&Bs anchor local culinary, arts and travel scenes, providing guests a chance to relax and unwind in intimate settings.
Suites on the Lake Inn B&B.
Hastings House Bed & Breakfast It’s a good thing Hastings House is open year round in Northumberland County. For culinary tourists, any one of three finely appointed bedrooms provide a cozy place to rest a well-used palate—no matter the season. This converted blacksmith shop boasts plush feather beds, a sunroom and a film library. Breakfast is homemade yogurt, coffee roasted onsite, and bacon and eggs sourced locally. Only three short blocks from downtown, Hastings House puts you close to the action—but you’ll feel miles away.
St. John’s Bed and Breakfast Let Lucy Foglietta welcome you into her elegant and stately country home in Norfolk County. Guest rooms are modestly appointed for a simple yet comfortable stay. Choose a book from the sprawling library—spanning every subject from baseball to the Beatles. Then take it out to back to the tranquil garden, complete with a hand-built gazebo, to peruse with a glass of local cider. The best part of your stay though, may well be the breakfast. Lucy rises bright and early to whip up thick apple pancakes, roasted yam home fries and homemade breakfast sausage.
The Caversham House B&B There are plenty of B&Bs in Stratford but the Caversham House stands out. The classic red brick structure was built in 1915, reflecting Edwardian architecture. A recent renovation ensured today’s modern amenities blended seamlessly into the property’s historical profile. Situated just off Ontario Street, a short walk to Lake Victoria and the Avon River, it’s also close to Stratford’s downtown core. Breakfast reflects local sensibilities, with meats from Perth County pork producers, and seasonal fruit and veg.
Suites on the Lake Inn B&B A County favourite, Suites on the Lake is a special place to return to after a long day of noshing and sightseeing. This Ontario-designated heritage building is located on the shores of Lake Ontario in the Village of Wellington, just minutes from wineries, fine dining, art galleries, artist studios as well as Sandbanks Provincial Park. The décor is classic lakeside, with touches of modern design. The only question remains, which of the four suites will you choose?
Forest Glen Herb Farm and Lavender Farm Bed & Breakfast The Lavender Farm B&B, located on the shores of Lake Huron, is tucked into a corner of the main property and fragrant herb farm. All foods are prepared with herbs and edible flowers from the surrounding fields. It’s a great way to open your day before enjoying a walk around the storybook grounds, or a nap on the private beach.
109 Front St. W., Hastings
1778 St Johns Rd. W., Simcoe
155 Cobourg St., Stratford
229 Main Street, Wellington
8333 Glendale Dr.
705-632-1405 windswept.ca
519-426-2949 stjohnsbnb.com
519-271-7882 thecavershamhouse.com
613-399-1717 suitesonthelake.ca
RR#5, Forest 519-899-4372 forestglenherbfarm.com
Savour Muskoka Take a jaunt north for superlative flavours By Rebecca LeHeup Ontario’s north is more than moose and majestic landscapes. In the Muskokas, it’s all about cranberries, blueberries, mushrooms, fresh water fish and more—a journey here offers many treats for the culinary tourist. Stay at Taboo Resort in Gravenhurst, with dinner in the culinary theatre, is a great way to taste the region. Hosted from mid-May to mid-October (days of the week range based on the season) at 7 p.m., the dining room theatre provides a spectacular sunset to compliment the performance of Chef de Cuisine Ivan Loubier and his team. The ingredients are sourced from local
10 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
suppliers and farmers’ markets. Take time to tour around Bracebridge and stop at Muskoka Cottage Brewery. Their Summer Weiss is the perfect patio
Cranberry Marsh offers a 360-day-a-year experience. You’ll find all things cranberry, including wine. The Muskokas are full of passionate
beer. Feel like fishing? Catch a spring
farmers, producers and chefs. The Savour
fed trout from Milford Bay Trout Farm
Muskoka (savourmuskoka.com) program
or simply pick up some of their smoked
captures this spirit, and directs visitors to
trout and trout pate. While the cranberry
the many great places to that give flavour
harvest is in the fall, Johnston’s
to the region.
Taboo Resort, Golf & Spa 1209 Muskoka Beach Rd., Gravenhurst 1-800-461-0236 tabooresort.com
Muskoka Cottage Brewery Inc. 13 Taylor Rd.,Bracebridge 705-646-1266 or 1-800881-4229 muskokabrewery.com
•
Milford Bay Trout Farm Hewlitt Road (between Bracebridge and Port Carling off Hwy 118), Bracebridge 705-764-1797
Johnston’s Cranberry Marsh 1074 Cranberry Road, Bala 705-762-3203 cranberry.ca
World of Beer Craft Tour Ontario breweries for authentic local flavours At the Great Lakes Brewing Company in Toronto, get a taste of unique seasonal flavours including pumpkin ale at Thanksgiving or the refreshing Orange Peel Ale in the dog days of summer. Just up Hwy 400 in Barrie, find the quirky disciples of Flying Monkey Craft Brewery, serving up Hoptical Illusion Almost Pale Ale in aged bourbon barrels. A little farrther north, Bracebridge is host to the Muskoka College Brewery, known for its Cream Ale. And it’s worth the drive to Vankleek Hill, east of Ottawa, to discover the complex thirst-quenching Beau’s Lug Tread Lagered Ale, a certified organic offering. Come June, bonafide beer lovers celebrate Ontario Craft Beer Week with tastings,
•
tours and food pairings across the province. Bottom’s up!
Ontario’s craft beers are worth traveling for.
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Noelle Munaretto
By Agatha Podgorski Locals know that there’s no shortage of incredible artisan beers in Ontario. From the success of Toronto’s Mill Street Brewing Company—which released Ontario’s first certified organic lager in 2002—to smaller microbreweries like Barley Days Brewery in Prince Edward County, we have something on tap for every beer lover. The Ontario Craft Brewers (ontariocraftbrewers.com) is an association of 30 top local producers. Together they’re responsible for everything from sweet maple pilsners to dark, nutty stouts. Want a taste? To make touring the best breweries easy, Craft Brewery Tours (craftbrewery tours.com) organizes exploratory day trips. Be chauffeured through the beautiful Ontario countryside, meet passionate brewmasters and taste a multitude of beers hand-crafted from natural ingredients.
70
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Taste of ontario
Discover Ontario Wine Country Chefs and wine go together, now more than ever we all know that “local” tastes
There’s a trend underway that is finding
Explore Ontario’s wine country destinations—the Niagara Escarpment
better. Taken further, we know that food
a growing number of talented chefs drawn
and wine grown in the same soil, in the
to Ontario’s wine country. They are connect-
and Twenty Valley, Niagara-on-the-
same climate, with the same philosophies,
ing directly with suppliers and are able to
lake, Lake Erie North Shore and Pelee
match up even better. VQA wines made
present the tastes of Ontario like we have
Island and Prince Edward County—to
in Ontario from 100 percent local grapes
never experienced before. Many vineyards
discover your own tastes. Planning a
represent the ultimate in a farm-to-table
are getting in on the act, collaborating
trip is right at your fingertips. Try the
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year. (VQA stands for Vintners Quality
help showcase their wines. Wine Country
by visiting winecountryontario.ca on
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Ontario offers unique and authentic culinary
your smartphone.
is in the bottle.)
experiences with fresh, fabulous food.
Celebrate Chardonnay
Bikes and Trains The Bike Train
A great way to get to wine and food country The Bike Train program, founded in 2007 by cycling enthusiast Justin
•
A great way to get to wine and food country I4C Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration July 22-24, 2011 Niagara Region Tickets: $350-$595 coolchardonnay.org
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•
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windsoreats.com/wineride 12 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
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Evergreen Brick Works > 550 Bayview Ave. Toronto > ebw.evergreen.ca
A Culinary Village in the City By Pamela Cuthbert I’m hovering over a farmers’ market table, stopped in my tracks by the perfume rising from flats of plump, sunkissed strawberries. “Just picked yesterday!” chimes farmer Jessie Soznicki. It’s a typical summertime Saturday morning at the Evergreen Brick Works in Toronto’s east end: the place is packed, there’s music, plenty of chatter and yelps from playing children. The vendors— entirely local—are known for sustainable practices. This might seem an unusual place to shop for local, artisan food though. We’re in a former brick factory where the signs of a patchwork past are all around. The Don Valley Brick Works, where the city’s prevalent red brick originated, was a hellishly hot brickyard for nearly a century. When the last kilns cooled in the 1980s, it took on another kind of heated activity as a party palace for squatters. Today, EBW, as it’s known, is one of the city’s most dynamic, multifaceted destinations. It’s a community centre, a hub of culinary culture, a rich resource of environmental learning and a unique focal point of industrial heritage. It has been revitalized—
EBW, as it’s known, is one of the city’s most dynamic, multifaceted destinations
Delicious and inventive locally sourced food is always on offer at the Brick Works.
The Farmers’ Market: Toronto’s largest, running year-round. Producers are either
and rewards of hands-on cooking workshops. Picnic at the Brick Works: Simply
certified organic or otherwise sustainable/
one of the city’s top food events, bringing
eco-friendly. There are baked goods, locally
together dozens of producers and chefs,
milled flours, fine cheeses and meats,
each of them partnered to create a
tree-ripened fruits offered and prepared
memorable dish that expresses terroir.
foods such as french fries from star chef
Expect to stay at least a few hours on
Jamie Kennedy.
Sunday, October 2.
The GE Café Chefs Series: Food for
A Seasonal Garden Market: This retail
Thought workshops pair chefs with food-
garden centre is designed to help city-dwellers
movement leaders. Every second Tuesday
find suitable edible foods for planting at home.
evening, Ontario producers, activists, cooks
The focus is on native plants and non-native
and media meet to talk about topical issues.
plants that are environmentally beneficial.
Each session is rounded out with interactive
Last but not least is the ambitious,
cooking demos and a convivial meal. The
singular Café Belong, headed by executive
second season begins this September.
chef Brad Long. Three meals are served
Growing Taste Buds: Young ones experi-
daily, and depending on the weather, patios
in fact, reinvented—by the Canadian, not-
ment in the kitchen while learning about the
or cozy indoor dining are on offer. Locally
for-profit Evergreen organization, which
sources of their ingredients. On Saturday
sourced ingredients are supplemented
promotes the greening of cities through
mornings between April and June, little
by EBW’s own food gardens on the roof.
education and outreach. Spread out over
hands (ages 8-12) engage in the challenges
Bon appetit!
nearly 16 hectares, there’s a quarry and a restaurant, 16 buildings, a public park, marshlands and exhibit spaces. EBW is a great place to find foods that
•
Get there Located on the Don Valley Parkway. Free shuttle buses transport visitors from Broadview
reflect the city’s cultural diversity and
subway station, departing every half hour. Schedule and details: ebw.evergreen.ca.
the region’s fertile farmland. Here are just
Or arrive by car and pay for parking [$6/day]. Cycling and walking also possible. Check
six of the many food-focused activities to
website for information and for hours of each program, as they differ one to the next.
get you started: pamela cuthbert, a food writer and editor, remembers when EBW was a forbidden site. 14 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
Brick Works
A historic brickyard converted into a tasty playground
W O R L D W I D E LO C AT I O N S
: ASIA
EUROPE
L AT I N A M E R I C A
MIDDLE EAST
NORTH AMERICA
A taste of Italy in the heart of Muskoka Enjoy authentic Italian cuisine at Teca “simply Italian” located at The Rosseau, A JW Marriott Resort & Spa. Classic dishes, sharing platters, a wide selection of unique Italian wines and a lively atmosphere. For more information or to book your reservation, visit jwrosseau.ca or call 705.765.1900
farmersmarketsontario.com
Market Ready A guide to some of our best farmers’ markets By Anita Stewart No matter where I travel, often before step foot into a restaurant, I visit a local market. By observing, tasting, talking, I can put my finger onto the food pulse of the region. Here is a short but personal list of some of my favourites. Kingston Public Market The first public market in Ontario (c.1801) certainly doesn’t show its age. Market day is still a grand event. Vendors travel from as far as Perth and Peterborough to sell their wares in the city square. Go for great baking from Wolfe Island Bakery and traditionally tapped maple syrup from Honey Wagon Farms. Season runs April-Nov. Market Street, Kingston Tuesday & Thursday 7am-6pm Friday 8am-6pm, Saturday 6am-6pm kingstonpublicmarket.ca
St. Jacob’s Farmers’ Market St. Jacob’s Farmers’ Market ranks as Ontario’s largest. It lies in the centre of Mennonite country, so look for rosettes and summer sausage and absolutely fabulous local produce, often sold by the bushel. Open all year. 878 Weber St. N., Waterloo Thursday & Saturday 7am-3:30pm Tuesday, 8am-3:00pm (June 14-Aug 30)
Covent Garden Market Covent Garden Market, founded in 1846, is the heart of London, particularly since the recent renovation. 130 King St., London Thursday & Saturday 8am-1pm (May-Nov.) coventmarket.com
St. Lawrence Market The tradition of a Saturday farmers’ market in Toronto began on this site in 1803. Over the years, the market has survived and thrived through many changes, including the Great Fire of 1849. From cooking classes to walking tours, this market has it all. Some of the finest cheeses in Canada are at Alex’s in the south market. In the north market, you’ll meet farmers from across the province. Open all year. 92-95 Front St. E., Toronto South Market: Tuesday & Thursday 8am-6pm Friday 8am-7pm, Saturday 5am-5pm North Farmers’ Market: Saturday from 5am stlawrencemarket.com
Owen Sound and District Farmers’ Market Vendors come from across Grey and Bruce Counties to this great indoor/outdoor Saturday market located in the port city on Georgian Bay. Think fresh lake fish, wild mushrooms in-season, honey, bison and formidable Ontario garlic. Open all year.
Hamilton Farmers’ Market Established in 1837, the downtown Hamilton Farmers’ Market just had its grand reopening. This market is the heart and soul of culinary Hamilton, with 65 or so vendors. The 17-foot Birks clock—known as the Clock of the Charging Horsemen— has also been refurbished. It chimes on the quarter hour. Open all year. 35 York Boul., Hamilton Tuesday & Thursday 7am-6pm Friday 8am-6pm, Saturday 6am-6pm
St. Lawrence Market brings great taste to downtown Toronto.
Culinary adventurer Anita Stewart founded Food Day and has authored 14 food books. 16 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
St. Lawrence Market
114-8th St. E., Owen Sound Saturday 7am-12:30pm owensoundfarmersmarket.ca
Shop, dine and unwind in the ByWard Market district.
See the Capital’s many national sites and landmarks.
Book our Celebration Vacation Getaway Package for a special occasion.
OUR CULINARY SCENE IS REALLY COOKING Ottawa chefs are winning wide acclaim at home and abroad. The Capital’s Savour Ottawa program recently won the Ontario award for Culinary Tourism Leadership. And foodies are making the Capital their newest dining destination. From fine French cuisine to innovative gastro pub fare, ByWard Market bistros, micro-breweries, and a focus on eating local – Ottawa welcomes gastronomic adventurers with open tables. Visit online for Ottawa Getaway Packages and special offers.
WWW.OTTAWATOURISM.CA • 1-888-OTTAWA-8
For more culinary events, visit ontarioculinary.com
Food, Wine and Good Times A guide to some of Ontario’s best parties, festivals and feasts By Suresh Doss Surrounded by three wine growing regions, and an endless array of producers and growers, Ontario is host to dozens of annual food and wine festivals. I’ve visited many of these festivals over the years, and I’ve been struck time and again by the richness and diversity of our food culture. Here are some of my favourite annual events.
The Toronto Night Market: Night It Up! Mid-July This is how Toronto celebrates Asian culture: a two-day (and night) street festival that mimics the popular Asian markets in cities such as Hong Kong, Taiwan, Kuala Lumpur and others of southern India. The waft of smelly tofu pricks visitors’ nostrils as hundreds crowd the aisles for authentic eats like Suresh Doss
fish balls, takoyaki (octopus croquettes) and murtabak (pan-fried bread). A multitude of performances entertain the throngs through the night, with from exotic teas to dried spices.
Cambridge Best Bites: Taste of the Region
Details: Free. See website for location
Sept. 11, 2011
and date. nightitup.com.
Best Bites is a partnership fundraiser
Suresh Doss
vendors at booths selling everything
benefitting the Cambridge Memorial Toronto Taste June 12, 2011
Hospital and the city’s food bank. Every
The annual fundraiser for the Second
idyllic Shade’s Mills Conservation area.
Harvest food bank is touted as the crème
Guests enjoy live music and gourmet
de la crème of Toronto food scene events.
eats. The quality of the food and wine
The evening pairs many of the city’s top
continues to impress me year after year,
chefs with regional wineries and breweries.
with area wineries such as Vineland
Held at the architecturally spellbinding
Estates, Château des Charmes and Reif
Royal Ontario Museum, this night boasts
Estates pairing up with local restaurants
unique tastes that can’t be found anywhere
and pastry shops.
summer, food and wine booths dot the
Details: $99. Shade’s Mills Conservation
20 vintners came together to celebrate
Area, Cambridge. 519-740-4966,
world cuisine for a good cause.
cmhfoundation.ca.
Details: $250. 100 Queen’s Park (Avenue
Get there: Via Rail Kitchener Station,
Rd. and Bloor St.), torontotaste.ca.
Greyhound, Go Transit.
Get there: Go Transit to Union
By Car: From Toronto, Gardiner Expressway
Suresh Doss
else. Last year, 60 restaurants and
Station, TTC to Museum Station; taxi to Bloor/Avenue.
More Festivals Salut Toronto Wine + Food Festival May 2012 An exciting package of city-wide events, dinners and tastings that celebrate Toronto and the world. salutwinefestival.com
18 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
JerkFest: Jerk Food Festival Etobicoke/Mississauga Aug 6-7, 2011 JerkFest celebrates the flavours of the Caribbean— and, of course, music, entertainment and good vibes. jerkfestival.ca
Winona Peach Festival Aug 26-28, 2011 The Peach Festival includes arts and crafts, commercial exhibits, rides, free main stage and children’s entertainment, Peach of Car Show and many food booths. winonapeach.com
West to Hwy 427N, 401W to Exit 286 Cambridge. Car trip 45 min-1 hr.
Royal Agricultural Winter Fair Toronto, Nov. 4-13, 2011 Since its inception in 1922, the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair has become the world’s largest indoor agricultural and international equestrian competition. royalfair.org
Maple In The County 2012 Prince Edward County Mar 24-25, 2012 Two days of self-directed fun and relaxed entertainment for the whole family, focused squarely on the sugar bush and syrup production. mapleinthecounty.ca
Taste! Prince Edward County Sept. 25, 2011 Taste is the region’s premier food and wine extravaganza. Local wineries partner up with producers and restaurants to Crystal Palace in Picton. Superstar chefs
Jo Dickins
celebrate all things PEC at the Historic Local food advocate, celeb chef and PEC resident Jamie Kennedy.
like recent Order of Canada appointee Jamie Kennedy and locavore champion with vintages from Rosehall Run, Closson
Niagara Icewine Festival: Red Hot and Ice Gala
vintners’ dedication to excellence and
Chase and Norm Hardie. A true celebration
January 2012
terroir. Even better, it’s the only festival
of Ontario’s bountiful harvest season,
This yearly gala hosted by Xerox at the
I’ve attended with a major focus on
this festival is the best possible culinary
Niagara Fallsview Casino Resort—literally
desserts. They’re perfectly paired, of
expression of what our province has to offer.
overlooking the Falls—gets my vote for
course, with a flute of Ontario icewine.
Details: $25. tastecelebration.ca.
quality and opulence. It’s where Niagara
Details: $175. 6380 Fallsview Blvd.,
Get there: Via Rail Belleville Station,
wine country’s best chefs and shops gather
niagarawinefestival.com.
Greyhound.
to wow guests. It’s also the perfect venue to
Get there: Via Rail to Niagara Falls,
By Car: From Toronto, Hwy 401E, exit 566S
try many of the province’s famous icewines,
Go Transit, Greyhound.
Marysville. Car trip 2.75 hrs.
the frigid, golden pours that reflect our
By Car: Gardiner Expressway West
Michael Potters match their creations
to the QEW. QEW Niagara to Niagara Falls. Suresh Doss is a writer, photographer and publisher of SpotlightToronto.com.
Car trip 1.5 hrs.
A toast to elevated dining Our award-winning wine cellar now boasts a new interactive wine list of over 500 international labels. Enjoy an expanded selection of spectacular wines and champagnes by the glass with our state-of-theart preservation system, and get the perfect pour every time. For an unparalleled food and drink experience with city views to match, join us at Toronto’s 360 Restaurant.
Reservations recommended. JGLDILHDKJGG © y { Dyw Complimentary elevation with the purchase of a main course.
Visit
winecountryontario.ca on your smartphone. Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011 > 19
Honest Goodness
Fresh Ideas, Fresher Ingredients Embrace the true Canadian cottage experience, enriched by the fruits of centuries-old farmlands — and topped off with all the culture you can drink in. It’s time for something fresh. Come to unspoiled Peterborough & the Kawarthas, where life grows naturally. For a taste of what our region has to offer visit: visitourtable.com | kawarthachoice.com GPA EDC_111269_OCTA_Ad.indd 1
11/04/01 10:48
1.25 hours < 100 km west of Toronto on QEW toward Niagara Falls, Exit 55 at Vineland or 51 at Jordan < twentyvalley.ca < Twenty Valley
Wine and Dine in the Valley Exploring the cuisine and terroir of wine country Vagabundo, a food truck serving gourmet street fare started to operate at Flat Rock Cellars atop the escarpment. My favourite dish was a chili caramel pork belly taco served with a glass of Flat Rock’s chardgewurtz-riesling blend, the 2009 Twisted. A new bakery opened at 13th Street Winery in a renovated barn across from the tasting room, promoting seasonal produce and canned goods from nearby producers. 13th Street also runs a charcuterie and cheese program where guests can enjoy a platter of local and international meats and cheeses with estate wines, like the highly popular NV Premier Cuvée bubbly, a creamy wine with underlying mineral and caramel notes. Further west on Fourth Avenue at Creekside Estate Winery, Chef J. Mark Deck” where gourmet pizzas, burgers and
Flat Rock’s tasting room yields panoramic vineyard views.
The view across Lake Ontario toward Toronto.
Flat Rock
Hand operates a seasonal patio called “The
Flat Rock
By Suresh Doss “The roots of the vines penetrate the soil and drink up the minerals,” Len Pennachetti says, swirling his glass of chenin blanc. “This minerality defines the wines we make.” Len is co-founder of Cave Spring Cellars, an acclaimed winery in Jordan that’s known for its attention to soil and climate. Cave Spring sources its grapes from a number of local vineyards, ranging from the Beamsville Bench to the Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellations. We’re standing right in between the sources, in Jordan Village, where the winery’s boutique shop is located. For the past two hours, we’ve been exploring back vintages and the effects of aging on approximately 20 different wines. In a region known for its rich soil, laced with limestone, sandstone and shale, Cave Spring Cellars is a good example of the impact terroir can have on wine. We work our way through three Rieslings from the 2008 vintage—all award-winners that even garnered the attention of Wine Spectator magazine last fall. For Ontario cool-climate wines, this international recognition is a treasure in itself. It means the world is taking notice of the wines cultivated so carefully in our province. The 2008 CSV Riesling, made entirely from the top tier grapes in the Cave Spring Vineyards, is the winner of the bunch for me. The CSV is incredibly balanced, with plenty of lingering acidity and citrus and tropical fruit aromas. It’s quite easy to spend a weekend exploring, eating and drinking your way through the Twenty Valley region. Undulating hills and curvy roads guide you through several vineyards with varietals suited to limestone and shale soil. Riesling, chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet franc flourish here. As much as the region is known for the fine wine that it produces, it’s also known for its cuisine. Just last year, a number of culinary outlets opened in the region. El Gastronomo
Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011 > 21
twenty valley > 1.25 hours > 100 km west of Toronto on QEW toward Niagara Falls, Exit 55 at Vineland or 51 at Jordan > twentyvalley.ca
Back in quaint Jordan Village, the sun
cheese plates are carefully paired with
regularly running culinary programs at
estate wines such as the highly touted
their respective restaurants. The Kitchen
is setting over Twenty Valley as I sit down
2008 Butler’s Grant Vineyard Riesling,
House at Peninsula Ridge offers French-
for dinner in the Windows Room at the
a wine sourced from the historic Butler’s
influenced à-la-carte dining from May to
Inn on the Twenty Restaurant. Here,
Grant vineyard known for exhibiting lime
October, while the restaurant at Vineland
Executive Chef Kevin Maniaci and his team
and ginger characteristics in the wine.
Estates operates year-round (closed Monday
pay homage to seasonal ingredients and
and Tuesdays in winter) with lunch and
local producers with a French flair, creating
dinner programs. The annual “Ironic Chef”
a tightly knit menu where each course is
event at Vineland is culinary matchup with
carefully paired with local wines. Time to
two local chefs challenged to create the
indulge in the view, the wine and the food—
perfect five-course tasting menu.
everything comes together so splendidly.
There is no shortage of fine dining options between Beamsville and Jordan Tourists may regularly visit Niagara-onthe-Lake, but the gourmands are sure to stop at the Good Earth Food and Wine Co. The Good Earth hosts a number of cooking classes year-round, and during the spring and summer months their moveable feast programs offer guests everything they need for a picnic in the vineyards. There is no shortage of fine dining options between Beamsville and Jordan,
Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery: Kitchen House 5600 King St. W., Beamsville 905-563-0900 peninsularidge.com
Cave Spring Cellars 3836 Main St., Jordan 905-562-3581 cavespring.ca
•
Vineland Estates Winery 3620 Moyer Rd., Vineland 905-562-7088 vineland.com
El Gastronomo Vagabundo [always on the move] elgastro.com
Creekside Winery 2170 Fourth Ave., Jordan 905-562-0035 creeksidewine.com
The Good Earth Food and Wine Co. 4556 Lincoln Ave., Beamsville 905-563-6333 goodearthfoodandwine.com
Flat Rock Cellars 2727 Seventh Ave., Jordan 905-562-8994 flatrockcellars.com
13th Street Winery 1776 Fourth Ave., Jordan 905-984-8463 13thstreetwinery.com
The Inn on the Twenty 3845 Main St., Jordan 1-800-701-8074 innonthetwenty.com
with wineries like Peninsula Ridge Estate Winery and Vineland Estates Winery Suresh Doss is a writer, photographer and publisher for SpotlightToronto.com.
American Express presents
Toronto’s ever-popular culinary celebration returns featuring 150 of the city’s finest dining establishments.
JULY 8 - 24, 2011
Experience delicious 3-course meals at exceptional value. Book your reservations starting June 23, 2011. Produced by
toronto.ca/summerlicious ®: Used by Amex Bank of Canada under license from American Express.
22 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
OM
@LiciousTO
Official Mark trademarked by the City of Toronto
facebook.com/LiciousTO
1.25 hours < Hwy 401W to Exit 286 Cambridge < 1 Langdon Drive < 519-740-2100 < langdonhall.ca < Cambridge
A Taste of Finer Things Savouring each and every moment at Langdon Hall
Langdon Hall
By Amy Rosen At Langdon Hall Country House Hotel and Spa in Cambridge, I am enjoying a leisurely rest on a bench under a linen umbrella, sharing a chilled bottle of Huff Estates sparkling wine from Prince Edward County and crabmeat and caviar canapés with Langdon owners William Bennett and Mary Beaton. An extra pillow is placed behind my back, while my water glass is refilled every few moments, seemingly by an invisible breeze. It’s this sort of hospitality that gets me wondering what the prestigious Relais & Chateaux designation really means. One friend said she thought the international membership was about the food. Another guessed it had something to do with the wine. I thought it was all about the recognition that a property meets certain international deluxe standards. In a way we’re all exactly right and all exactly wrong. Here at Langdon Hall, the cuisine is a major draw. Chef Jonathan Gushue, whose kitchen recently made Restaurant magazine’s list of top 100 restaurants in the world, shares his take on the designation. “What I find most impressive about the membership The back patio at Langdon Hall is perfect for relaxing before dinner.
is that they encourage people to be different.
unwieldy, nose-to-tail without being scary.
Each property has its own personality, which
Atlantic lobster is poached in Langdon’s own
I think is really rare.”
house-churned butter, the plate scattered
After a full afternoon tea service in our guest room, followed by a quick game of croquet, some light reading by the pool and massages at the spa, a friend and I sit down to a blind tasting menu in the restaurant. Blind because we are entirely, and happily, in Gushue’s hands.
From garden to table at Langdon Hall.
Langdon Hall
“The property dictates the menu to me,”
with earthy bites of ramps, cocoa and
‘ The property dictates the menu to me... The wild flowers and herbs’
Gushue told me earlier, as it is based on what
even cockscombs. Another course boasts
surrounds him. “The morels, black walnuts,
wild asparagus, fiddleheads, confit duck
the apple orchards, wild leeks, ginger and
gizzard and asparagus velouté. Never had
garlic. The wild flowers and the herbs.”
a smoked bone marrow beignet? Well then,
The food is creative without being
you don’t know what you’re missing.
•
Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011 > 23
Cambridge > 1.25 hours > Hwy 401W to Exit 286 Cambridge > 1 Langdon Drive > 519-740-2100 > langdonhall.ca
Jonathan Gushue’s Local Faves
300 King St. E., Kitchener 519-741-2287 kitchenermarket.ca The 41 Gastropub “In St. Jacobs it’s all about the pork, pork and more pork.” The 41, in nearby Kitchener, “has the best charcuterie in town—and that’s saying something!” 41 King St. W., Kitchener 519-745-8939 thefortyone.com Artisanale Café & Bistro “Chef Yasser Qahawish has a great respect for local and seasonal fare in this rustic French-inspired cuisine.” 37 Québec St., Guelph 519-821-3359 artisanale.ca
Nick and Nat’s Uptown Bistro 21 “Good solid food, great wine, good service. Modern regional cuisine, and always a good time. It’s the hosts that make it.” 21 King St. N., Kitchener 519-883-1100 uptown21.ca Bhima’s Warung “The chef-owner is [Toronto restaurateur] Paul Boehmer. This is authentic Balinesian cuisine with a French twist. I crave it. He is a master.” 262 King St. N., Waterloo 519-747-0722 bhimaswarung.com
Chef Jonathan Gushue shops and eats locally.
Langdon Hall
Kitchener Farmers Market “Great fun for kids, cooking demos, authentic ethnic food stalls. Great bread and an outstanding place to stock up for choux croute.”
Amy Rosen is food editor at Canadian House & Home. Her novel Indigestion is forthcoming.
A GOURMET MEAL AND DANCING FOR DESSERT—FAR FROM YOUR DAILY ROUTINE. Create your personalized VIA getaway package. Discover what the great cities of Ontario and Quebec have to offer thanks to one of our train-hotel-activity packages. Because you can’t say no to getting away and doing it your way…at a great price.
Buy now at viarail.ca
TM
Trademark owned by VIA Rail Canada Inc.
24 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
STRATFORD > 2 hours > 150 km west of Toronto on Hwys 401W/7-8W/8 > welcometostratford.com
A Day in Stratford By Ivy Knight Stratford is a quiet little town with a vibrant creative heart courtesy of a deep association with William Shakespeare. As you may expect, the theatre scene entices so many visitors that the village has more than its fair share of incredible culinary destinations. A day in Stratford should begin with brunch at Foster’s Inn, preferably on the patio. The availability of all-week brunch has endeared this place to the locals, especially the large population of actors, most of whom have Mondays off. Pop in on a Monday and see the place full of players from the stage—perhaps a little over-tired after last night’s festivities—waiting for their eggs benedict (tip: the hollandaise is made to order). After, head to Tea Leaves for a tasting with a certified tea sommelier, Karen Hartwick, who journeys to Asia each year to meet with growers and tea blenders. She works with neighbouring farms who grow herbs specifically for her blends. She’ll happily create a tea blend to ease specific ailments or teach you to make your own.
Icewine, goatcheese, even chilis go into his chocolates
Stratford Tourism
Dine and delight in this arty little town
If you have good taste in the arts, this little village is for you.
chevres and fetas you can find some unique
from Perth Pork Products—to name just a
cheesy treasures like Indiscretion, an aged
few—the Linley’s know a thing or two about
goat’s milk cheese washed in grappa.
supporting the local movement.
Time for dinner, and the star of the
Finish the evening with cocktails or a
show when it comes to fine dining in the
glass of Ontario wine at Down the Street,
area has to be Bijou. Owned by Aaron and
a bar frequented by theatre-lovers. The
Bronwyn Linley, graduates of Stratford Chef
walls are covered with theatre posters by
School where Aaron is now an instructor,
artist Scott McKowen, who uses Stratford
this modern French restaurant with a touch
residents as models.
of Asian and Italian influences changes its
This is just a sampling of some great
chalkboard menu daily. The couple works
times you can have in Stratford. For more,
closely with farmers, foragers and fisher-
check out the Epicurean Treks, which
men from Lake Huron. Aaron’s duck confit
can be customized to suit your interests,
Barr’s, where Derek Barr roasts his own
is legendary and regulars know to order the
from farm visits to cheesemaking to
cocoa beans and leads chocolate-making
pickerel cheeks whenever they’re offered.
chocolate sampling. The good times—
workshops. Barr uses icewine, local goat
With greens from Soiled Reputation, pork
and the Chocolate Trail—never end.
Now it’s time for truffles at Chocolate
cheese, even chilis to flavour his wild con-
•
fections. Traditionalists can try the chocolate dipped long-stem cherries or peanut brittle. Next is a stop at Monforte Dairy, a Stratford institution owned by Ruth Klahsen. Klahsen’s cheeses are so beloved that locals use her Toscano in place of Parmesan at the dinner table. Book ahead for a cheesemaking workshop, a cheese-and-wine tasting or drop by and pick up some cheeses
Foster’s Inn 111 Downie St. 519-271-1119 fostersinn.com Tea Leaves Tea Tasting Bar 433 Erie St. 519-273-1201 or 1-800-733-0376 stratfordtealeaves.com
Chocolate Barr’s Candies Inc. 136 Ontario St. 519-272-2828 chocolatebarrs.com
Bijou Restaurant 105 Erie St. 519-273-5000 bijourestaurant.com
Monforte Dairy 49 Griffith Rd. E. 519-814-7920 or 1-800-437-5553 monfortedairy.com
Down The Street Bar and Restaurant 30 Ontario St. 519-273-5886 downthestreet.ca
Epicurian Treks 47 Downie St. 519-271-5140 / 1-800-561-7926 welcometostratford.com
from the retail shop. Among the ricottas, IVY KNIGHT is a chef and writer. Her brunch column appears in the Toronto Star. 26 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
1.75 hours < 140 km east from Toronto on Hwy 401E, Exit 436 to 115N/35N < thekawarthas.net < Peterborough and the Kawarthas
Play, Eat and Wander The perfect region for anyone who likes ice cream By John Lee Imagine a place where food and culture come together in all seasons. A place where activities and events appeal to all ages. The famed Peterborough/Kawarthas region, a scant hour-and-a-half from Toronto, is such a place. Rolling hills and vast fresh water lakes, combined with native flora and fauna, make this area one of the most coveted scenic lands in the province. Today’s traveller will appreciate the variety of eco, culinary and adventure activities that make this region so exciting, from bike and hiking tours to fine dining to town festivals. Let’s take a short tour. Elmhirst’s Resort has been playing host to visitors for four generations. Today, enjoy
the hospitality of a historic operation with
Visitors can expect a taste of the settler
all the modern touches: five-star cuisine, spa
lifestyle—people roaming in pioneer garb
and modern cottage-style accommodations.
and bread cooling on the hearth. When you return to modern times, a
For the kids, there’s kite boarding and canoeing. For the adults, golf and muskie
visit to the Kawartha Dairy Company will
fishing. For nature lovers, walking trails
be in order. The Crowe family continues
offers endless delight. A short ride from the resort’s perch on Rice Lake, you’ll be transported 150 years backwards at Lang Pioneer Village. This site is a faithfully living window into life in a rural hamlet during the 19th century. Complete with a working mill that has been
Culinary and adventure activities make this region so exciting
in operation since 1846, the village owes
the tradition of making pure, organic and
its unique character to the efforts of locals
even kosher ice cream for the thousands
who donated, preserved and relocated 25
of eager customers that visit their Minden
original buildings and structures from area.
location annually. For generations, children and adults alike have sated their cravings for old-fashioned dairy goodness. Now with seven locations, this operation captures the essence of what makes Peterborough
•
and the Kawarthas so attractive; a celebra-
Relaxing at Elmhirst’s Resort is tremendously easy.
Elmhirst’s Resort RR#1, Keene 1-800-461-1940 elmhirst.ca
Lang Pioneer Village 104 Lang Rd., RR#3, Keene 705-295-6694 langpioneervillage.ca
Kawartha Dairy Ltd. 304 Toronto St. S., Uxbridge 905-862-0513 kawarthadairy.com
Astoundingly authentic recreations await at Lang Pioneer Village.
Lang Pioneer Village
Elmhirst’s Resort
tion of community, heritage and family.
John Lee is a writer, teacher and the owner of Chippy’s Fish & Chips. Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011 > 27
Ottawa > 5.5 hours > 450 km east of Toronto on Hwy 401E, Exit 721A to 416N > savourottawa.ca
The Capital of Dining Ottawa’s food scene has catapulted into the future
Young Ottawa chefs are apt to bicycle to any one of the city’s farmers’markets Where traditional chefs may rely on wholesalers to supply everything from tomatoes to tablecloths, young Ottawa chefs are more apt to bicycle to any one of the city’s farmers’ markets—with many vendors offering organic and sustainable ingredients. Even the stately and elegant Fairmont Chateau Laurier hotel connects with area growers, choosing seeds every winter that supply summer heirloom fruits and vegetables, ensuring the best of the season in Wilfrid’s restaurant and Zoe’s Lounge. Here are a few suggestions for dining
The Courtyard Restaurant Young, self-taught chef Michael Hay and his off-the-wall pastry chef Quinn Davis regularly surprise with their eclectic spin on traditional dishes, many deconstructed and presented in breath-taking molecular-gastronomy style. 21 George St., 613-241-1516, courtyardrestaurant.com Beckta Dining & Wine
By Ron Eade Once known as a staid if not dull meat-and-potatoes town, in little more than a decade Ottawa has catapulted light years into cutting-edge culinary territory. More young and daring chefs are opening their own restaurants and showcasing a new approach to exciting, regional food. Their cuisine is definitely out of the box. Small wonder the nation’s capital is being applauded in such journals as en Route magazine and The Washington Post. In short, Ottawa is now a must-experience culinary destination in its own right—offering everything from traditional homemade charcuterie and artisan cheeses to contemporary and seasonal cuisine. Here, local farmers are proudly named on menus, and talented chefs aren’t afraid to take chances. This newfound love affair with locally grown ingredients is encouraged by dedicated organizations like Savour Ottawa, spearheaded by Ottawa Tourism, Just Food and the City of Ottawa. Products that appear on diners’ tables follow a verification system that ensures authenticity and a true sense of terroir.
Details matter at Beckta Dining & Wine.
Restaurant E18hteen Expect exceptional high-end contemporary cuisine featuring local products and sustainable seafood by executive chef Matthew Carmichael, presented in the heart of the ByWard Market. 18 York St., 613-244-1188, restaurant18.com ZenKitchen Forget the bland and ordinary vegetarian dishes you may be used to. Here, chef and co-owner Caroline Ishii delivers exciting and varied vegan plates that leave even diehard carnivores satisfied. 634 Somerset St. W., 613-233-6404, zenkitchen.ca Beckta Dining & Wine Owner Stephen Beckta elevated haute cuisine to new levels the moment he renovated an old house and opened in 2003, with superlative fine food and an informed wine list to match. Service is second to none at this world-class table. 226 Nepean St., 613-238-7063, beckta.com
Murray Street Kitchen, Wine, Charcuterie Chef and co-owner Steve Mitton embraces nose-to-tail gastronomy, and to that end lives to prepare homemade charcuterie delights, from rich pates to terrines and cured meats—even braised hog’s head if you call ahead. One of the best tuckedaway summer patios in the city. 110 Murray St., 613-562-7244, murraystreet.ca Domus Cafe Chef/owner John Taylor was among the first to explore and champion local, organic ingredients at his ByWard Market restaurant in the mid-1980s. Expect fresh, bright and contemporary flavours. 87 Murray St., 613-241-6007, domuscafe.ca Oz Kafe Self-taught chef Jamie Stunt is an undiscovered yet brilliant young talent who serves adventurous cuisine in unpretentious surroundings. Diners are most pleasantly surprised. 361 Elgin St., 613-234-0907, ozkafe.com
Town Gastropub Located in the heart of Ottawa’s busy Elgin Street district, chef/ owner Marc Doiron and chef Steve Wall serve satisfying bistro fare with an Italian twist that you’ll never associate with the usual red-and-white checked tablecloths. 296 Elgin St., 613-695-8696, townlovesyou.ca Navarra In the heart of Ottawa’s downtown “Gastro Alley,” chef/owner Rene Rodriguez prides himself on authentic Spanish Basque cuisine with Italian notes and, more recently, Mexican influences. Happily, authentic tostadas bear absolutely no gastronomic similarity to the ubiquitous Tex-Mex selection at fast-food takeouts. 93 Murray St., 613-241-5500, navarrarestaurant.com Atelier Restaurant Located in Ottawa’s Little Italy, chef/owner Marc Lepine has elevated cuisine to a gustatory art form with his endlessly impressive, deconstructed dishes, often referred to as molecular cuisine. Each night he offers a leisurely 12-course tasting menu that you’ll be talking about for years. 540 Rochester St., 613-321-3537, atelierrestaurant.ca
in Canada’s culinary capital. Ron Eade is food editor at the Ottawa Citizen. Read his blog at roneade.com. 28 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
Twenty-six distinctive wineries. One unforgettable place.
AUG UST 1 4 T H
This is a close-knit community of wineries with individual personalities, as distinctive as the wines they create. You’ll see this when you step up to our doors. And you’ll taste it in our wines. We all share a commitment to terroir - the effects of soil, climate, and location on the vineyard. Behind the doors to each winery you’ll find friendly staff, stylish and relaxed tasting rooms and a wide range of wines to sample – many only available at our cellar doors. Plan your wine country getaway today!
f ield-to-f o r k event
Visit our website for year round events, touring itineraries and more. Join our mailing list, find us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter for updates from wine country!
www.oxfordfresh.com www.tourismoxford.ca www.ontarioculinary.com tourism@oxfordcounty.ca
WWW.WINERIESOFNIAGARAONTHELAKE.COM
Good Things Grow in Ontario This is just a taste of the countless ways we can celebrate local food. Learn more
AD SPECIFICATIONS
about what’s in season, find storage and prep tips for maximizing flavours, and client decide what to make of all this goodness with delicious recipes at foodlandontario.ca. project manager
Chris Alderson
designer
Lynn Maceira
date sent
April 20, 2011
When flavourful Ontario strawberries are at their peak, make batches of no-cook strawberry jam to last all year. 1 4 2 1
quart cups tbsp pouch
(1 L) (1 L) (25 mL) (85 mL)
Ontario Strawberries granulated sugar lemon juice fruit pectin
Tourism Partners Niagara
client contact docket
5887
project/file name
WNOTL_ONCGadƒ
publication
Ontari
ad size/col
(3.5 x
project/file name ON due date(s)
PREPARATION TIME: 15 MINUTES MAKES: ABOUT 5 CUPS (1.25 L)
Rinse, then hull strawberries. In bowl, thoroughly crush strawberries, one layer at a time. Measure 1-3/4 cups (425 mL) into large bowl. Add sugar and mix; let stand for 10 minutes. Add lemon juice and pectin; stir for 3 minutes (a few sugar crystals will remain). Ladle quickly into clean glass jars or plastic containers (up to 2 cups/500 mL each) to within 1/2-inch (1 cm) of rim. Cover at once with tight lids. Let stand at room temperature until set (may take up to 24 hours). Refrigerate for up to 3 weeks or freeze for longer storage. Nutritional Information for 1 Serving (1 tbsp/15 mL): Carbohydrate: 10 grams | Calories: 40
Follow us on Twitter @foodlandont and find us on Facebook.
Q13704 OCAG Magazine ad.indd 1
18/04/11 10:11 AM
April 20
EXPERIENCE THE LOCAL FLAVOURS OF KINGSTON “I love that most of my producers are only 20 minutes away. That just doesn’t happen in a big city.” Chef Derek Macgregor Le Chien Noir Bistro
From sipping local wine on Kingston’s welcoming restaurant patios, to exploring Canada’s oldest market guided by one of our renowned chefs, we invite you to become a part of culinary history with us!
kingstonfood.ca
1.5 hours < 142 km west of Toronto on the Gardiner Expressway and Hwys 403W/6S/3W < norfolktourism.ca < Norfolk County
A Romp in Ontario’s Garden Norfolk offers tranquility for the hungry traveler
Laura Berman - GreenFuse Photos
By Pamela Cuthbert With its stunning natural landscape and rich agricultural history, Norfolk County has truly earned its moniker of “Ontario’s Garden.” This tranquil region spans Ontario’s southern-most coastline. Norfolk County is one of the province’s key sources of produce. For the hungry traveler, the region is known for showcasing its bounty in fine restaurants, friendly cafés, wineries and farmers’ markets. The season peaks in summer, but cold-storage goods as well as preserves make Norfolk sa good year-round destination for culinary discoveries. There is so much to do here that we’ve made a list of the top three locales to track down. Waterford He calls himself the Gourmet Farmer. No
Don’t miss Canada’s largest peanut grower.
kidding. Jason Persall, a young, energetic grower, is something of a local celebrity,
Simcoe
Vittoria
known for his creativity. His cold-pressed
At the peak of autumn harvest, Norfolk’s
The Cider Keg near Vittoria is a seasonal
canola oil is a world apart from the industrial
Flavourfest brings together local producers
farm market that runs from May through
stuff, and his vibrant soy oils and wine vine-
and top chefs for five days of unabashed
December. The family-owned orchard
gars are standouts. The Pristine Gourmet
revelling in the region’s bounty of fine foods.
and market run by Cheryl Peck offers not
label supports sustainable farming practices
Cooking demonstrations feature celebrity
just crunchy Norfolk apples, but all sorts
so it’s little wonder the oils are promoted by
cooks, as well as the “Two Fairly Fat Guys,”
many of Canada’s top local-food-friendly
Norfolk County’s Official Food Ambassadors.
chefs, from Michael Smith to Jamie Kennedy.
A full-on event for the whole family,
Even British culinary goddess Nigella Lawson is a fan
Even British culinary goddess Nigella Lawson
Flavourfest is part of the Norfolk County
is a fan—she rang up Persall directly to place
Fair & Horse Show, an old-fashioned fair
her order. The plant and farm is based near
with more than 170 years of tradition. There
of apple-inspired products. In season,
Waterford and although tours are not avail-
are agricultural displays and food vendors
there are also strawberries, stone fruits,
able, the products can be found in stores in
along with equestrian events and parades.
vegetables and pumpkins. And for more
the region, including the Belworth House.
In the spring, Norfolk County Fairgrounds
ambitious visits, there are tours that include an informative agricultural jaunt
This elegant Victorian home offers fine dining
are host to a standout gastronomic event,
in a casual setting as well as cooking classes.
Eat & Drink Norfolk. A two-day affair, the
highlighting regional specialties and
Run by chef Tracy Winkworth, Belworth’s
emphasis is on local wineries, breweries
farm history.
mission is to celebrate local flavours.
and restaurants.
After the Cider Keg, it’s worth a side trip to Kernel Peanuts, the country’s largest peanut grower. That’s right, we’ve
Belworth House 90 St. James St. S. 519-443-4711 belworthhouse.com
Persall Fine Foods & Pristine Gourmet 1211 Villa Nova Rd. RR 1 519-443-4658 pristinegourmet.com
Norfolk County Fair & Horseshow 172 South Dr. 519-426-7280 norfolkcountyfair.com
The Cider Keg 1398 Vittoria Rd. 519-426-0705 ciderkeg.com
Kernal Peanuts 393 Fishers Glen Rd. 519-426-9222 kernalpeanuts.com
got peanuts in Ontario. The plants were introduced in the 1980s to replace fields long-devoted to tobacco. The sandy soils now host a much healthier crop. Goes to show that peanuts make for smart snacking and smart farming.
pamela cuthbert is a Toronto-based food writer, editor and Slow Food supporter.
•
Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011 > 31
Prince Edward County > 2.25 hours > 210 km east of Toronto on Hwy 401E, Exit 522, 525 or 543 south to the County > tastetrail.ca
Where Wild Foodies Are Artisanal spirit lures epicures to Prince Edward County By Valerie Howes prince edward county has become a magnet for foodies compelled to follow their dreams. They’ve been lured to this spit of land touched by the waters of Lake Ontario, forging a new sense of culinary culture in their wake. Take the Taste Trail to meet second-career artisanal producers, reinvented kitchen artists and pioneering vintners and feed off their passion.
Best of Both Worlds
“My mother was a pie maker,” says Pat,
From the outside, the Tall Poppy Café seems
formerly a caterer in Toronto, pointing to a
urban and hip—its name emblazoned on the
black and white image of a polka-dot-clad,
front window in funky scarlet with splashy
big-haired beauty smiling from her 1960s
poppy graphics. But inside it’s decidedly “of
kitchen. “Like her, we bake from scratch
the County,” with a delectable range of farm-
and do things the organic way, with natural
fresh and garden-inspired local offerings.
and local ingredients.”
Swing by for a visit and you might
A mixed berry pie with purple juices
find yourself dipping hunks of homemade
wrapped in golden shortcrust pastry tempts.
buttered bread into roasted vegetable soup—
But then again, so do mini chocolate cup-
Glee Pub
a sweet, earthy blend of beets, carrots and
cakes. They’re made with spelt flour, topped
In the post-and-beam, 19th-century barn
parsnips. Toddlers hang out at the toy box
with butter frosting and finished with a
tasting room at Karlo Estates Winery, a
while parents catch up with friends over fair-
delicate sugar daisy. You’ll need to get in
cat with the prettiest face rubs up against
trade Phil and Sebastian coffee. Black tea
fast before the locals clean up!
an antique apothecary cash register. But
comes in mismatched china cups on dainty
paying cash is just one option here: “One
saucers, some inherited from co-owner Ally
Earth Friendly Cheese
song for a free tasting, three for a free
Walters’ grandmother and some donated
A drive past the apple trees at Hughes
glass,” says co-owner Sherry Martin, gestur-
spontaneously by locals.
Orchards and the waters of Lake Ontario takes you to Fifth Town Artisan Cheese,
ing to the piano and guitars in the corner. Cake Walk Down Memory Lane
one of North America’s most eco-friendly
of every type and quality for an extra
“We accept cash only—how retro is that?”
dairies. You’ll know you’ve arrived when
glass of off-dry riesling, delicately oaked
reads the sign at Just Sweets Retro Bakery.
you spot the wind turbines out front.
chardonnay or the innovative Van Alstine
Another clue this Bloomfield store channels
At Fifth Town you can peek through
Port, named one of the top 10 cutting-
a bygone era is the elaborate bronze baby
viewing windows into the subterranean
edge wines in the world at the Gourmet
shoes-cum-ashtray by the front door.
caves of the Platinum-LEED certified factory,
People around here break into songs
Food and Wine Show in Toronto. “Sometimes everyone… ends up joining in,” says Sherry.
On the rich chocolate-coloured walls,
where cheeses named Counting Sheep, Lost
family photos trace the baking heritage
Lake and Nettles Gone Wild sleep like fuzzy
of co-owners Susan Keller and Pat McKay.
babies till they’re ripe.
‘One song for a free tasting, three for a free glass.’ Prince Edward County’s newest winemaker, Richard Karlo is a former engineer. He discovered his flair for winemaking by dabbling for 25 years in his basement and winning medals in every contest he entered. Richard uses natural wild fermentation methods to ensure the terroir shines through. He’s not afraid of ambitious blending experiments, exemplified by his Quintus 2008. This dark and fruity red is blended from five old-world grape varietals, making for a soft, smooth wine with a lingering finish. Karlo Estates is a gorgeous farm from the 1800s turned into a modern winery.
32 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
Where to stay Devonshire Inn on the Lake This eight-room, waterfront heritage house is one of the most relaxing places to stay in the County. Look out for trout in the stream by the in-house restaurant. 24 Wharf St., Wellington, 613-399-1851 devonshire-inn.com The Inn at Huff Estates Sleep among the vines at this boutique hotel in rooms with their own garden patios. If you’re on a romantic getaway, note that the peaceful barrel room has inspired several proposals. Packages with From the Farm Cooking School available. 2274 County Rd. 1, Bloomfield, 613-393-5802 huffestates.com/theinns29.php Angéline’s Inn In addition to its top-notch restaurant, a new spa, artists’ workshops and revamped guest rooms make it a great place to stay. Fifth Town
433 Bloomfield Main St., Bloomfield, 613-393-3301 angelinesrestaurantinn.com
Tending the award-winning cheeses at Fifth Town.
The award-winning cheeses are inspired by international classics like feta, chèvre and ricotta. Their whimsical names dreamed up by president and founder Petra KassunMutch, previously a publishing exec. Upstairs in the tasting boutique, you can watch the artisans cutting and packing curds while you nibble on Petal Luna, a hard goat milk cheese whose floral notes come from locally harvested calendula. On Saturdays in summer, guided cheeseand-wine tastings introduce you to five
The Great Canadian Cheese Festival june 4-5, 2011 Historic Crystal Palace, Picton Tickets: $5-$150 cheesefestival.ca
For the first time in Canada, the Cheese Festival will bring together outstanding cheesemakers from coast-to-coast. Cheese enthusiasts and culinary adventurers can meet to learn about, taste and buy the best in artisan, farmstead and specialty cheese. There will also be fine wine and craft beer as well as artisanal foods on hand. Sure to please are the Cooks & Curds Cheese Gala and other cheese-themed events and dinners at local Prince Edward County restaurants.
top-selling cheeses and County wines that make their perfect tablemates. Hardcore dairy fans can even craft their own wares
rabbits too. And around them, a newly
From the Farm
at “Cheesemaker for a Day” workshops. You
planted garden. That way, veggies and herbs
Food writer-turned-cooking instructor
leave with a 2-kilo wheel to finish at home.
can make it on to diners’ plates within hours
Cynthia Peters is not likely to run out of
of being plucked from the soil.
ideas at the County’s newest cooking
Siblings Alexandre and Melanie Fida are
New Beginnings
school, From the Farm Cooking School. Cynthia’s 19th century Loyalist farm-
This summer, Michael Potters gets his pig
working hard on expanding their late father
back. Relaxing post-shift over coffee at
Willy’s 24-year-old restaurant, while preserv-
house kitchen is home to an enormous
Angeline’s restaurant in Bloomfield, the
ing the memory of the much-loved local
Mennonite wood oven—perfect for bread
veteran chef pulls out a photo of Rosie,
chef and pioneering slow-food proponent.
and rustic pizzas—an array of antique
snout-deep in spaghetti. She used to reside
In that vein, Chef Potters will punctuate
cooking tools and a great hardwood table
at his former restaurant, Harvest, and is
his farm-to-table offerings with interpre-
where participants share meals after class.
awaiting her new home.
tations of some of the restaurant founder’s
Many, Cynthia says proudly, get hooked
signature dishes.
and return later for more classes.
Rosie will be joined by chickens and
Karlo Estates Winery 561 Danforth Rd. RR#1, Wellington 613-399-3000 karloestates.com
Tall Poppy Café 298 Main St., Wellington 613-399-2233 tallpoppycafe.ca
Just Sweets Retro Bakery 297 Main St., Bloomfield 613-393-5365 justsweetsretrobakery.com
Fifth Town Artisan Cheese 4309 County Road #8 Picton, 613-476-5755 fifthtown.ca
•
From the Farm Cooking School 618 Burr Rd. [n. of Bloomfield] 613-922-9194 fromthefarm.ca
Valerie Howes is food editor of Reader’s Digest Canada. She blogs at readersdigest.ca/openkitchen. Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011 > 33
Apple Pie Trail > 1.75 hours > 145 km north of Toronto on Hwys 400N/26W toward Collingwood > applepietrail.ca
Crunch! By Anita Stewart Encircling southern Georgian Bay and perched atop the Niagara Escarpment, you’ll find some of the finest apple growing territory in all of Canada. For more than 150 years, orchards have flourished in the heavy clay-loam soil, the pollen-laden breeze and the fertile lands. It can be argued that apples from the region are the crunchiest in the province. Varieties from the old St. Lawrence and Fameuse, to Macintosh and Northern Spy, to the newer Honeycrisp and brand new Red Prince, all tell Ontario’s apple tale. In downtown Collingwood, Café Chartreuse bakes classic French style tarts—many layers of thinly sliced fruit trimmed in buttery pastry. Down the street, you can chase your dessert down with a great apple/caramel latte at Espresso Post, served by their award-winning barista. Further west, at Craigleith, the old railway tracks have been made into a bike/ski trail. The accompanying train station is now the Craigleith Heritage Depot displaying apple memorabilia. It’s a great stop, even if it’s only to walk the shale beach and take in the view. It’s a perfect path to the Blue Mountain Village with its array of restaurants, and activities. There you can dine elegantly at the Oliver Bonancini Café Grille and finish off with a piece of sour cream apple crumble tart. In Thornbury, one of my favourite Ontario towns at the mouth of the Beaver River, there are a number of stops worth noting. First, visit The Cheese Gallery for a thick slice of rich apple cheesecake. Then there’s Sisi on Main, a casual restaurant where the apple crumble is heaped generously with ice cream and caramel. Make sure you
Laura Berman - GreenFuse Photos
Apples from Georgian Bay may be the best in the province
save space for the Red Prince apple pie at
Country Market, which caters to the ski/
the Thornbury Bakery Café. Thornbury is
summer vacationers who need a quick
also home to Ashanti Coffee. Their coffee
meal. You can pick up a filet or two of
comes from an east African estate owned by
apple-wood smoked trout from Kolapore
local residents. To go with the brew, they’re
Springs Fish Hatchery. The region’s water
serving apple crumble muffins, of course.
is pure and cold, and fish flourish in ponds
Higher on the mountain be sure to sip
and streams tumbling down the escarpment,
iced apple wine at Georgian Hills Vineyard.
leaving a final product that best represents
Then make your way over to the Ravenna
this apple-kissed terroir.
Café chartreuse 70 Hurontario St., Collingwood 705-444-0099 cafechartreuse.com espresso post 149 Hurontario St., Collingwood 705-446-1740 espressopost.com
Craigleith heritage depot 113 Lakeshore Dr., Craigleith 705-444-2601
the cheese gallery 11 Bruce St S., Thornbury thecheesegallery.ca
Oliver Bonancini Café Grille 220 Mountain Dr., Craigleith 705-444-8680 oliverbonacini.com
Ravenna Country Market 496350 Grey Rd. 2, 519-599-2796 ravennacountry market.ca.com
•
thornbury bakery café 12 Bruce St S., Thornbury 519-599-3311 thornbury bakery.com
Georgian hills vineyard 496350 Grey Rd. 2, 705-444-5200 georgianhills vineyard.com; be sure to call ahead
ashanti coffee 29 Bruce St S., Thornbury 519-599-5615 ashanticoffee.com
Sisi on Main 27 Bruce St S., Thornbury 519-599-7769 sisionmain.com
Anita Stewart is a food activist and cookbook author. 34 > Ontario Culinary Adventure Guide 2011
STRATFORD
your culinary escape
Stroll the shops on an Edible Stratford tour. Or how about exploring our Chocolate Trail? Enjoy Saturday Tastings, through the winter and spring, savouring unique pairings of foods. Bring friends along to share our culinary passion guided by local food artisans and innovative chefs – a culinary escape at chic inns and heritage B & Bs. Join us at the one-of-a-kind Stratford Garlic Festival, September 10-11, or the Savour Stratford Perth County Culinary Festival, September 24-25, voted “Best Culinary Tourism Experience in Ontario”.
www.visitstratford.ca
Blue Mountains Apple Country welcomes you! Eat, play and explore along the Apple Pie Trail! Extraordinary adventure packages and unique local apple products are featured at over 30 restaurants, cafes, shops, galleries, museums and farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; markets from Collingwood through The Blue Mountains to Owen Sound.
C heck out our eat-play-stay packages. Book your Apple Pie Trail Adventure today!
www.applepietra i l.ca