WEEKENDER
WINTER 2016
EXPLORE TACOMA’S MUSEUMS
METHOW VALLEY SKI THE NORTH CASCADES
SHARE YOUR ADV ENT URE P. 68
Winter Surf BRITISH COLUMBIA-STYLE
TAKE US WITH YOU nts of Complime ® scades Amtrak Ca
WHERE TO DROP IN & GET FIT THE PILLARS OF HAPPINESS TRAIN TRAVEL IN BLACK AND WHITE
PICTURED HERE: Surf’s up! Tofino, BC
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesR route
Welcome to your New Jewelry Home
Indulge in the premier food and wine experience.
Maloy’s Jewelry has been a downtown Portland tradition photo: Kristen Marie Photography
for over 30 years, with one of the finest selections of fully restored antique jewelry on the West Coast. A glittering jewel box full treasures from all the most beautiful periods of jewelry design, you will find everything from Edwardian engagement rings to Art Nouveau pendants, Victorian lockets to Art Deco earrings. We also have a full staff of expert bench jewelers right on site, and can work our restoration or redesign magic on your own family heirlooms.
March 31 - April 3, 2016
With vintage treasures in every price range, an exceptional memento of your trip is always
Seattle, WA
in reach. Come visit with our friendly staff and explore. Conveniently located on both
tastewashington.org
the max and streetcar lines.
presented by
welcoming sponsor
event feature
premier sponsors
M-F 10am to 5:30pm Sat 11am to 5pm 717 SW 10th Ave Portland, OR 97205 503.223.4720 www.maloys.com
Features WINTER 2016
44
Fitness Drop Ins A fitness guru finds the top spots to drop in along the Amtrak Cascades line.
48
From the Train Photographer Eric Rose channels nostalgia in this black and white photojournal.
52
Bringing Music Back Portland’s Ethos Music Center brings music out to kids and fills budgetary dead spots.
Nina Lee Johnson
4
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ontrakmag.com
Departments WINTER 2016
23 Chef Spotlight
INTRO 10 Letter 14 Contributors 16 Digital
Go online to see more photos from this issue’s gallery.
BUSINESS 19 Green Biz
Hopwords Urban Brewery goes B Corp by cutting water use by half.
20 Q&A
Happiness, according to Professor John Helliwell.
CULTURE 23 Chef Spotlight
Seattle’s Renee Erickson does it again with French-inspired The Whale Wins.
24 Music
Delhi 2 Dublin mixes Bhangra, Celtic and dub in a moving synthesis.
25 On Stage
Eugene Ballet Company’s Suzanne Haag brings together movement, ballet and art walks.
27 Event Calendar
Plan your travel around our calendar of music, art, theater, film, sports and festivals.
6
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Jim Henkens The Whale Wins owner and chef, Renee Erickson.
OUTDOORS
33 Outdoors NW
This winter, think surfing. Think Tofino.
36 Notes from the Adventure Skiing from town to town in Washington’s Methow Valley.
EXPLORE GUIDE
Where to eat, drink, stay, play and shop.
56 Oregon 60 Washington 64 Vancouver
40 Museums Weekender Hitting a museum-rich Tacoma with young kids—introduce glass.
42 Stormwatching Weekender Whidbey Island is the place to be when storms roll in off the Pacific.
68 Exposure
69 Train Games 70 Route Maps
Painted Journeys: The Art of John Mix Stanley
73 Special Deals on Amtrak Cascades
January 30 — May 1, 2016 Discover the unstoppable artist-explorer who brilliantly captured the West. Only West Coast Venue. Final Stop.
74 Parting Shot
Submit a photo for a chance to win the photo contest. ON THE COVER: The cover was shot by Kevin Light, an Olympic gold medalist-turned-photographer living in Victoria, BC. Light specializes in sports and portrait photography. View his work at kevinlight.photoshelter.com
ontrakmag.com
1701 Pacific Avenue Tacoma, WA 98402 253-272-4258 www.TacomaArtMuseum.org
John Mix Stanley (1814–1872), Young Chief (detail), 1868. Oil on canvas, 20 × 16 inches. Tacoma Art Museum, Haub Family Collection, Gift of Erivan and Helga Haub, 2014.6.128. Organized by the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, Cody, Wyoming. Funding support generously provided by private donations, the National Endowment for the Arts and Wyoming Arts Council. Local support is generously provided by ArtsFund and Tacoma Arts Commission.
Letter WINTER 2016
Jason Biggs
Operations Program Manager WSDOT Rail Division
David Smelser
Capital Program Manager WSDOT Rail Division
WELCOME ABOARD! We’re pleased you’ve chosen Amtrak Cascades for your trip today. Thanks for your patronage and please share your memories with others who might want to experience the Pacific Northwest via a scenic, eco-friendly, cost-effective and stress-free mode of transportation. While we’re proud of our current Amtrak Cascades service, over the last three years we’ve been hard at work to offer you even better service soon. Twenty different projects throughout the Washington rail corridor will result
8
| WINTER 2016
in significant improvements for Amtrak Cascades passengers when completed in 2017. The result will be shorter travel times, more frequent trips between Seattle and Portland, and more reliable ontime performance. Ten of the projects are already finished. They span from Vancouver, at the southern-most point of Washington, to Blaine, at the northern-most point. More information on all the projects can be found on page 73, or visit our website at wsdot.wa.gov/rail.
Through the investment in these projects, as well as our continued focus on passenger satisfaction, we are advancing our goal to make the Amtrak Cascades service even more popular with residents and visitors. Whether you use our service on a regular basis or are taking your first trip aboard our trains, we hope you have a memorable experience. We invite you to come celebrate with us in 2017, when we launch our expanded service and move closer to our vision for true high-speed rail service in the Pacific Northwest.
ontrakmag.com
adventure + lifestyle along the Amtrak CascadesÂŽ route
Co-Publisher - Heather Huston Johnson Co-Publisher - Ross Johnson
TICKETS AT ROSEQUARTER.COM
2016 MIDWESTERN & PACIFIC COAST SYNCHRONIZED SKATING SECTIONAL CHAMPIONSHIPS JANUARY 28-31
Editor - Kevin Max Editor at Large - Sarah Max Managing Editor - Megan Oliver Cross-media Manager - Cathy Carroll Content Producer - Anna Bird Lead Designer - Crystal Jeffers Photo Editor - Talia Jean Galvin Designer & Illustrator - Brendan Loscar Sales & Marketing Coordinator - Kelly Alexander Digital | Social Media - McKenna Dempsey, Bronte Dod, Ryan Manies, Cassondra Schindler Office Manager - Cindy Cowmeadow Advertising Account Executives Fletcher Beck, Monica Butler, Susan Crow, Ronnie Harrelson, Kate Knox, Kristie La Chance, Hillary Ross
DESTINATIONRACES.COM/RUNOREGON 1859 Media Advertising 541.550.7081 1859media.com
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facebook.com/OnTrakMag facebook.com/AmtrakCascades @OnTrakMag @Amtrak_Cascades PUBLISHED BY 1859 Media, LLC PMB 335, 70 SW Century Dr., Suite 100 Bend, Oregon 97702 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronically or mechanically, including photocopy, recording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of 1859 Media. articles and photographs appearing in OnTrak may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the express written consent of the publisher. OnTrak and 1859 Media are not responsible for the return of unsolicited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these articles are not necessarily those of 1859 Media, OnTrak, or its employees, staff or management.
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1859 Media sets high standards to ensure forestry is practiced in an environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable way. This issue of OnTrak was printed by American Web on recycled paper using inks containing blend of soy base. Our printer is a certified member of the Forestry Stewardship Council (FSC) and the Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI), and meets or exceeds all federal Resource Conservation Recovery Act (RCRA) standards. When you are finished with this issue, please pass it on to a friend or recycle it. We can have a better world if we choose it together.
hotelbellwether.com
thechrysalisinn.com
fairhavenvillageinn.com
Contributors
WINTER 2016
Andes Hruby
All aboard the Winter Express to Bellingham!
Writer - Drop In and Stay Fit (p.44)
Andes Hruby is a transplant to Bend, Oregon. Life on the road less traveled inspires her to stay fit. Hruby graduated from Columbia University with an MFA in writing and has spent thirty years as a fitness instructor in five disciplines. Hruby, former NBC Fit Guru of Connecticut and contributor to Glamour, Elle, Allure, Cosmopolitan, and Marie Claire, imparts advice for OnTrak on how to stay fit while traveling but still enjoying life’s indulgences.
2 night stay any day of the week Side view or full view deluxe room Taxi fare to & from the Amtrak station Fun train-themed amenities
Dishing Out Glitz, Glamour & Comedy on the Other Side of the Tracks Since 1967!
Darcelle XV Showplace
$359 + tax
America’s longest running female impersonation cabaret *Not available with any other promotions or discounts. Rates valid Oct 1, 2015 – April 30, 2016. Some restrictions may apply. Must present train ticket. 804 10th St Bellingham WA
Jim Henkens
Sophia McDonald
Lucy Burningham
Eric Rose
Jim Henkens is a food and lifestyle photographer who divides his time between Seattle and Lummi Island, Washington. When not on assignment for clients such as Sasquatch Books, Starbucks, Nordstrom or Sur La Table, he can usually be found on Lummi Island cooking for friends or in France searching for vintage kitchen items for Marine Area 7, a kitchen store in Seattle he owns with his wife.
Sophia McDonald is a freelance writer in Eugene, Oregon. Her work has appeared in more than two dozen publications including TeaTime, All About Beer, Acres USA, Wine Business Monthly, Oregon Business and 1859 Oregon’s Magazine. In her spare time, she enjoys reading, cooking, gardening, DIY projects, and spending time with her husband and twin daughters. See her work at sophiathewriter.com.
Lucy Burningham is a Portland-based writer who covers craft beer, food, and travel for a variety of publications, including The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Saveur, Bon Appétit and the BBC. She combined two of her favorite things— bikes and beer—when she co-authored Hop in the Saddle: A Guide to Portland’s Craft Beer Scene by Bike.
Eric and his partner traveled from Portland to Vancouver BC and back and loved every minute. “The scenery was epic, the staff seemed to love their jobs, they had our favorite amenities: coffee, internet and good food. There will surely be more train travel in our future, no more putting it off,” he said. His work is at filmesque.com.
Photographer - Chef Spotlight (p. 23)
12
| WINTER 2016
Writer - Museums Weekender (p. 40)
Writer - Green Biz (p. 17)
(888) 808-0005
thechrysalisinn.com
Wed-Thur 8:00 pm and Fri-Sat 8:00 pm & 10:30pm Male Review Fri-Sat @ Midnight 208 NW 3rd., Portland, Oregon ~ 503-222-5338 ~ darcellexv.com
Photographer - Gallery (p. 48)
COMMUnITY HOT sHOP
noW until may 2016
chihuly Garden and Glass welcomes back our community hot shop. Guests visiting between 11 am - 6 pm will be able to view live demos and learn more about the glassblowing process.
IGNITE YOUR INSPIRATION ontrakmag.com
as you walk through the Galleries, Garden and Glasshouse, Chihuly Garden and Glass immerses you in dale chihuly’s work in a whole new way.
located at the base of the space needle, seattle centeR
chihulygardenandglass.com
This Month’s
Jackpots
Digital Experience WINTER 2016
EXTENDED GALLERY
CUSTER, WA $34,962.24
MOBILE
THE ROMANCE & NOSTALGIA OF TRAIN TRAVEL
$1 MEGA MELTDOWN
Follow us at
BURNABY, BC $30,000
facebook.com/OnTrakMag facebook.com/AmtrakCascades
FREEDOM PAYS
LYNDEN, WA $26,609.54
Follow us on twitter: @OnTrakMag @Amtrak_Cascades
BELLINGHAM, WA $10,025 EAGLE’S HERITAGE
BELLINGHAM, WA $20,000
BELLINGHAM, WA $10,020
BELLINGHAM, WA $20,000 FREEDOM PAYS
EAGLE’S HERITAGE
BELLINGHAM, WA $10,000 FREEDOM PAYS
FERNDALE, WA $15,358.32 $5 MEGA MELTDOWN
Over 700
CONTESTS
EXP
88 FORTUNES
88 FORTUNES
EAGLE’S HERITAGE
Follow us on instagram: @OnTrakMag
KAMLOOPS, BC $10,304.14
Jackpots
Paid This Month
SURE
seasideOR.com
Photo Contest
Chris Sawtelle
chinese new year
year of the monkey at lan su chinese garden February 8 - 22
BY TRAIN Photographer Eric Rose traveled from Portland to Vancouver, BC, on a mission to capture the romance of modern train travel. See more of the beautiful images he captured during his journey at: ontrakmag.com/gallery
The Littlest Birds
Train Tracks Let our curated list of Pacific Northwest regional musicians be the soundtrack to your next PNW adventure
The Be Good Tanyas - Vancouver, BC
Mykonos
Fleet Foxes - Seattle, WA
Mother Mother
Tracy Bonham - Eugene, OR
Chinese new year events include
Snap a great shot and win cool stuff from OnTrak. Send us your photo at ontrakmag.com/exposure
The Winds
| WINTER 2016
• Lion Dances every Friday, Saturday & Sunday • Lantern Displays • Children’s Performances • Feng Shui Talks • Kid’s Activities
• Martial Arts Demonstrations • Plants Talks
and more!
Alela Diane - Portland, OR
Mind Idea
Chinese New Year is Sponsored by:
Jeremy Enigk - Mt. Vernon, WA LISTEN HERE
ontrakmag.com/traintracks
Presented in part by grants from:
ontrakmag.com 14
Just steps from Union Station in Portland’s Old Town Chinatown Neighborhood!
The Jackson Foundation
year of the monkey ontrakmag.com
www.lansugarden.org/Chinesenewyear
Autzen Foundation
Rose E. Tucker Charitable Trust
Walter Clay Hill & Family Foundation
Business 17. Green Biz | 20. Q&A
A Pint Half Full BY LUCY BURNINGHAM
PURVEYOR
AT HOPWORKS URBAN BREWERY, there are plenty of reasons to feel good about drinking a pint. The brewpub is built with sustainable materials, and the beer is made from 100 percent organic ingredients. In addition, Hopworks recently became a Certified B Corp, an achievement that affirms the brewery’s sustainability practices. Hopworks brewmaster and founder Christian Ettinger said all those factors make the beer taste better. “The attitude of the whole experience is what you’re tasting,” he said. Eight years ago, Ettinger launched the eco-friendly brewery in Southeast Portland, and in 2011, Hopworks opened the BikeBar pub in North Portland. Since then, the brewery has become carbon neutral by using green power and purchasing offsets. When it received B Corp certification in 2015, the proof was in the pudding that its practices meet rigorous standards of social and environmental performance, accountability and transparency. Hopworks recently became the world’s first Salmon-Safe certified brewery site, which means it meets high standards for protecting watersheds. As part of its push to reduce water use, the brewery recently installed a system that can reuse water for tank cleaning up to five times, along with a centrifuge that filters beer using significantly less water. Today Hopworks uses 3.4 barrels of water for every barrel of beer it produces, compared to the industry average of seven barrels of water for every barrel of beer. In 2013, the USDA began requiring that beers labeled “organic” include only organic hops. Hopworks rose to the challenge. Further, nearly all of the organic grains used in Hopworks beers are grown less than 300 miles away in the Klamath Falls area. The brewery has an ambitious goal of sending zero waste to the landfill. Right now, Hopworks diverts nearly all of its waste from the landfill, a majority of which is spent grains that goes to a local dairy farm. Ettinger believes that running a sustainable business means looking at what’s possible. “There’s an opportunity every day to make incremental changes for the better,” he said.
TO THOSE
SEEKING THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE.
Tim LaBarge
ontrakmag.com
WINTER 2016 |
17
A SIT DOWN Q A BY MICHELLE HOPKINS
The Science of Happiness AN OCEANFRONT HOME. An expensive car. First class airline tickets. Are those the luxuries that lead to Nirvana? University of BC Professor John F. Helliwell has spent decades trying to solve the mystery behind happiness. The leading happiness researcher and internationally renowned economist first began exploring the topic as a visiting professor at Harvard in the 1990s. In 2010, the United Nations called upon him to take part in the first World Happiness Report, released in March of 2012.
Of all the data you compiled in the UN report, what surprised you most? What struck me most was how important trust is in the workplace. In one study, employees were asked to rate where they place trust on a scale of one to ten, and it rated one point higher than their home life. The importance of trusting those in authority and in our neighborhoods also has a huge impact on how we reach out and engage in our communities. 20
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OREGON The Benson*, Portland
Martin Guhn
John Helliwell
Professor, University of British Columbia and the Canadian Institute for Advanced Research
Does money really bring true happiness? Yes, economic freedom is crucial. Money is one of six happiness indicators. Yet, it is hard to determine at what income level you reach the tipping point. More powerful than money, though, is the freedom to make choices and take charge of our lives—positive social interactions and good quality personal and mental health.
What countries appear to have the happiest citizens? The happiest residents live in Denmark, Norway, Switzerland, Sweden and the Netherlands. We also discovered that people in small towns are significantly happier overall. That’s because they take time to create genuine human connections—neighbors smile at each other on the street, they chat and they help each other.
WASHINGTON The Governor, a Coast Hotel, Olympia Coast Gateway Hotel, Seattle Coast Bellevue Hotel, Bellevue Coast Wenatchee Center, Wenatchee ALASKA Coast International Inn, Anchorage
How can we find true happiness? Learn to invest more time in the people around you. We know that compassion, altruism and a good marriage boost happiness levels. In one study, we found huge health benefits when cancer survivors helped support others in their fight against cancer.
HAWAII Waimea Plantation Cottages, Kauai
*photo - The Benson Hotel lobby in downtown Portland
COASTHOTELS.COM / 1.800.663.1144
We are also proud to offer 34 distinct properties in Western Canada and the U.S.
ontrakmag.com
TRIM: 4.9375"
MUSEUM OF WIDE EYES AND DROPPED JAWS
Culture
MOHAI.org
SEATTLE’S
23. Culinary | 24. Music | 25. On Stage | 27. Events
Chef Spotlight BY CHARYN PFEUFFER
One student can help an entire tribe. tribalcollege.org
CD AD CW SA SM PM
David Kennedy / Dan Wieden Patty Orlando Casey Hall Cathy Ormerod Corey Ingrasin Jane Monaghan
AMERICAN INDIAN COLLEGE FUND
AE AB PHOTO ILLUS DESIGN COLOR
Gina Keough Kimberly Wilder Anna Menke n/a n/a Peter Lindman
PUB ISSUE LIVE FORMAT DMA X
OnTrak n/a 4x 4.9375" 1/4 pg 300
JOB TITLE CLIENT FILE OFFICE ECD
AICCORM12017 Help a Student FY15 AICF AICCORM12017_4x4.9375_ Allen USA–Portland Susan Hoffman/Mark Fitzloff
USAGE
Five Years (starts Jan 2012), North America, consumer + trade print, collateral, brochure, direct mail, industrial, video, retail, outdoor, POP, PR, events and internet.
IF YOU DINE AT ANY one of Renee Erickson’s runaway hit restaurants in Seattle, the influence of the chef ’s Pacific Northwest roots is apparent. “My favorite childhood memories are almost all on the beach at Spee-Bi-Dah,” Erickson shared. “We spent our summers crabbing and fishing there and were able to enjoy the beauty and simplicity of cabin life in the Puget Sound.” At the age of 25, she bought Boat Street Café, which she ran from 1998 to 2015. Now, the James Beard-nominated chef has two restaurants (The Walrus and the Carpenter and The Whale Wins), an aperitivo bar (Barnacle Bar), a 1960 Divco dairy van that doubles as a catering truck (Narwhal) and a pickle business, Boat Street Pickles. The latest addition, The Whale Wins, is bustling and convivial with an emphasis on small plates and sharing. Bon Appétit called the restaurant one of the ten most important new restaurants in the country. Here, almost everything is cooked in an applewood-burning oven—from a roasted half-chicken to seasonal vegetables. Erickson describes The Whale Wins’ cuisine as worldly and simple. “It’s French in spirit and execution, but like much contemporary American cooking, borrows freely from many cultures,” she said. Still, the menu weaves local foodstuffs throughout, including Hama Hama clams, Painted Hills beef, and yes, housemade pickles. Like Erickson’s other spots, seafood reigns supreme. “Every week it is different, but nothing is quite as lovely as a well-cooked piece of fish that is simply prepared,” said Erickson. As we settle into winter, the chef looks to more rustic dishes. “From wild mushrooms to oysters, the cooler months make me excited to really dig into the classics.” Who could disagree?
Plan your Eugene getaway at EugeneCascadesCoast.org/Arts | 800.547.5445
Jim Henkens
ontrakmag.com
WINTER 2016 |
23
Musicians
On Stage SHAPE & FORM
CENTER STAGE & UP 'N' COMING
Speaking Through Movement BY ANNA BIRD
Delhi 2 Dublin BY STIRLING MYLES
AS MUSIC HISTORY has shown, bringing together different cultural influences can have revolutionary results. The Beatles brought in Ravi Shankar’s Indian classical music sensibilities, making the sitar a household sound in the West. Aerosmith released their iconic song “Walk This Way” with Run DMC. Combining different genres turns music as we know it on its head. The Vancouver, BC-based ensemble Delhi 2 Dublin is successfully reinventing music fusion. Much like a good recipe, they combine many ingredients, creating a balance that lets each influence’s flavor shine. The band’s Indian Bhangra, Celtic, dub and electronic sounds result in something altogether foreign, yet intriguing to the ear. The current iteration of the Canadian group is made up of touring members Serena Eades on violin and James Hussain on guitar, and founding members Sanjay Seran (vocals), Tarun 24
| WINTER 2016
Nayar (tabla and electronics), and Ravi Binning (dhol and dholak). The band’s self-titled debut in 2008 hit number three in Canadian world music charts. With its most recent al-
bum, We’re All Desi, this troupe continues to explore the fringes of the musical landscape and presents something we can all gravitate toward—good, high-energy music.
Album Review WE’RE ALL DESI Keeping with its signature sound of Bhangra and Celtic music, the band’s album We’re All Desi adds a hypnotic element of hard-hitting EDM (electronic dance music) into the mix. While each of the eleven tracks has a pristine and produced sheen, there’s a raw, earnest nature in the vocal delivery that helps the instrumentation soar.
Read Myles’ extended interview with Sanjay Seran at ontrakmag.com/delhi2dublin
Train Tracks A few music tracks from regional artists for your journey LISTEN HERE:
ontrakmag.com/traintracks
The Littlest Birds
The Be Good Tanyas - Vancouver, BC
Mykonos
Fleet Foxes - Seattle, WA
Mother Mother
Tracy Bonham - Eugene, OR
The Winds
Alela Diane - Portland, OR
Mind Idea
Jeremy Enigk - Mt. Vernon, WA
ontrakmag.com
“DOES THAT MAKE SENSE? I’m moving a lot when I’m talking to you, but you can’t see me,” Suzanne Haag said via phone. “In my line of work, speaking isn’t, like, a thing.” Her line of work is professional ballet, so her most trusted form of expression is movement. Elegant movement, at that. Haag, has been with the Eugene Ballet Company since 2003, performing as the title role in multiple productions, touring the Northwest and teaching at the Eugene Ballet Academy. “When I was little, I was like, ‘Oh, I’ll be a ballerina, of course,’” Haag said. Growing up in Connecticut, her interest in ballet piqued when she went to see The Nutcracker at age 2. “After that, of course, the road was definitely not so straight and easy.” She trained at the School of the Hartford City Ballet before attending Butler University and studying arts administration, just in case the ballerina thing didn’t work out. But then it did. Haag’s dancing career started in Kentucky right after graduation and took a detour in Las Vegas before ending up in Eugene. Thirteen years later, she is working on her first choreographed piece to be performed by the Eugene Ballet Company in April. It is in describing her choreography that Haag said she gets verbally tripped up. Though as a part-time teacher for the past nine years, her communication skills are perfectly suited for the layperson. ontrakmag.com
Suzanne Haag performing in Toni Pimble’s Dark Side of the Moon on the Hult Center stage in Eugene.
Three years ago, Haag co-created the interactive performance group, #instaballet, during which the audience creates the choreography. The group was born from a desire to have ballet performances in the summer, during the company’s off-season. Staged in various venues during Eugene’s First Friday Art Walk, #instaballet integrated dancers and audience.
“It’s been really interesting for me as a choreographer, and a dancer, to see what the audience thinks and what they would prefer to see,” Haag said. The group quickly became a success and has since expanded into classrooms. At 35, Haag is the oldest dancer in the Eugene Ballet Company. “If you make it to forty, you’re really, really lucky,” she said.
WINTER 2016 |
25
MUSEUM OF NATURAL AND CULTURAL H I S T O RY
OREGON EVENTS CALENDAR BY SAM KATZMAN
PORTLAND CHOCOLATEFEST Oregon Convention Center January 22-24
The BUZz SAw sharkS of LOng AGo
TICKET PRICE TBA
chocolatefest.org Taste chocolates made by more than sixty of the world’s top vendors to support the World Forestry Foundation. Dream turned reality for every Oregonian with a sweet tooth.
A Traveling Exhibit Featuring the Art of Ray Troll
FERTILE GROUND FESTIVAL Citywide January 21-31
now on View
SINGLE DAY TICKETS VARY, FESTIVAL PASSES $50
1680 E. 15th Ave., Eugene · 541-346-3024 · natural-history.uoregon.edu
IAAF World Indoor Track and Field Championships Oregon Convention Center
nTrak Ad x 4.8125” mmer 2015
March 17-20 PRICES VARY
portland2016.com WILL CENTRAL OREGON’S HOMETOWN hero Ashton Eaton, “The Greatest Athlete on Earth,” repeat as heptathlon champion? Will he better his world-record performance? You can find out in person this March as Portland plays host to the biannual Super Bowl of international indoor track and field. It’s the first time in nearly three decades that the meet is being held on U.S. soil. The venue is just a short train ride north of Track Town USA, home of Hayward Field and the Oregon Ducks’ historic track and field program. Ducks travel in flocks and that will probably be the case at the 2016 World Indoors as Eaton, his wife, Brianne Theisen-Eaton, Galen Rupp (all U of O alumni) and newcomer Jenna Prandini (a current Duck) are favorites to qualify and compete against the world for gold in Portland.
fertilegroundpdx.org A celebration of new artistic work created by the minds of Portlanders. The festival, which sprawls the city, showcases world premiers of theatrical, dance, and comedic performances, as well as visual art and film.
1939 Chinese New Year, Portland
Chinese American History
on exhibit at the Oregon Historical Society
Chinese American
Beyond the Gate
Exclusion/Inclusion
A Tale of Portland’s Historic Chinatowns
On exhibit Jan. 28 – May 1, 2016
On exhibit Feb. 29 – Jun. 21, 2016
ZWICKELMANIA Eugene, Salem, Portland oregoncraftbeer.org February 13 FREE
Otherwise known simply as Beer Day, this is an annual tradition where breweries host meet-thebrewer events, pour generous samples and celebrate the state’s number one libation. OREGON TRUFFLE FESTIVAL Eugene and Newberg January 16-31 $450-$575
1200 SW Park Ave. Portland
www.ohs.org
oregontrufflefestival.com
ontrakmag.com
In its eleventh year, the Oregon Truffle Festival will add the Joriad North American Truffle Dog Championship and an exploration of the terroir of Yamhill Valley to spread the revered event over three weekends. Truffle fanciers can delight in the culinary event of the season with dinners, tastings, seminars and more. EUGENE BALLET COMPANY PRESENTS THE GREAT GATSBY Hult Center for the Performing Arts April 9-10 $32-$65
Fitzgerald’s classic American Novel is sure to dazzle you.
SALEM WILLAMETTE VALLEY WINE & JAZZ FESTIVAL The Oregon Garden, Silverton oregongarden.org March 27-28 FREE
Jazz music, wine and other activities will spill over the town of Silverton for two days in March.
PRICES VARY
nba.com/blazers 2015 MVP Stephen Curry squares off against Damian Lillard in a battle of the West’s best point guards. It’s the last time the reigning champion Warriors visit Portland this season, and the Moda Center is an ideal spot to take in pro basketball in the Northwest. POLAR PLUNGE Broughton Beach February 27 plungeoregon.com Plungers compete to raise the most money, with the proceeds going to Special Olympics Oregon. Watch good Samaritans flirt with hypothermia in the frigid Columbia, all in the name of charity.
PORTLAND SEAFOOD & WINE FESTIVAL Oregon Convention Center February 5-6
MARVEL UNIVERSE LIVE! Moda Center March 3-6
TICKET PRICE TBA
rosequarter.com All your favorite Marvel superheroes jump off the pages of comic books and theater screens to thwart villains in real life.
pdxseafoodandwinefestival.com Held in the middle of Dungeness crab season, this festival combines two Oregon favorites: seafood and local wines. 26TH CASCADE FESTIVAL OF AFRICAN FILMS Various venues February 5-March 5 TICKET PRICE TBA africanfilmfestival.org Shooting for the silver screen reaches far beyond Hollywood. View one or all of the films produced by African filmmakers at this month-long event. HAGG LAKE MUD RUN-ULTRA 50K AND 25K Hagg Lake, Gaston February 13-14 $65-$80
EUGENE
GOLDEN STATE WARRIORS VS. PORTLAND TRAILBLAZERS Moda Center February 19
orrc.net Tell your friend who’s still bragging about finishing that 10k that you’re training for a 50k. In the mud. This ultra is a whole new level.
PRICES VARY
PORTLAND TIMBERS HOME SEASON OPENER Providence Park March PRICES VARY
timbers.com Portland soccer fanatics have bought up every seat in the house since the team was founded in 2009. Consider yourself the bearer of the golden ticket if you’re lucky enough to be joining the Timbers Army for this one. 60TH ANNUAL PORTLAND ROADSTER SHOW Portland Expo Center March 16-20 $16, children 12 and under free portlandroadstershow.com Celebrating its diamond anniversary, this classic car show is older than some of the classic cars on display.
PORTLAND JAZZ FESTIVAL Multiple venues February 18-28 PRICES VARY
portlandjazzfestival.org This year’s festival will be full of tributes to Coltrane, and touts a lineup of more than 150 jazz acts from across the globe.
eugeneballet.org Toni Pimble’s glamorour and stylish ballet vision of F. Scott
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See
Your Bridge to Culture
ALBANY
Discover Oregon
Stroll among more than 700
>> historic homes and buildings in >> See Albany Oregon’s four historic districts.
Seven Wondrous
atch wood-carvers bring >> W Journeys menagerie of hand-crafted
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carousel animals to life. Celebrate the beauty of hot air balloons at the award-winning Northwest Art & Air Festival.
>> Call today and begin >>
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Washington EVENTS CALENDAR VANCOUVER
CULTURAL CROSSROADS FESTIVAL Bellevue Shopping Center March 11-13
VANCOUVER SPRING BREWFEST Esther Short Park March 18-19
FREE
redtri.com You’ll feel far from Washington at this festival, which includes an international bazaar, handmade crafts, and thirty-five different ethnic music and dance performances
TICKETS TBA
vancouverbrewfest.com You don’t have to wait until summer for the onslaught of beer festivals. Vancouver Spring Brewfest allows you to sample local beers while watching March Madness games.
IRISH FESTIVAL Seattle Center March 12-13
OLYMPIA-LACEY
FREE
seattlecenter.com Catch the parade and then head into the festival for some jigging, Gaelic gaming, or if you’re curious about how you got to the branch you’re sitting on in your family tree, you can trace your own Irish heritage during a session with a genealogist.
CAPITAL FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL Saint Martin’s University March 19 $10-$15, CHILDREN UNDER 12 FREE
Tacoma Art Museum
capitalfoodandwinefestival.com This family-friendly event combines favorite foods from the local dining scene with music and more. Adults can sample from forty microbrews and more than 100 varietals from Washington wineries.
Museum of Glass 541-928-0911 • 110 3rd Ave SE, Albany OR 97321
TACOMA MUSEUM OF GLASS PRESENTS HEALING IN THE FLAMES Museum of Glass Through March ADMISSION PRICES VARY
museumofglass.org Admire the breathtaking and thought-provoking work of veterans of the Iraq and Afghanistan wars, who choose art to deal with the effects of war.
SEATTLE AC2 AN INTIMATE NIGHT WITH ANDERSON COOPER & ANDY COHEN Paramount Theatre January 16
Washington State History Museum
$60-$102, $375 VIP
LeMay America’s Car Museum
stgpresents.org The Emmy award-winning latenight talk show host and CNN anchor exchange questions in a news and pop culture discussion without the commercial breaks. MODEL RAILROAD SHOW Pacific Science Center January 16-18
Explore a neighborhood of museums with the Tacoma Museum Pass!
ADMISSION $11.75-$19.75
pacificsciencecenter.org A forty-two-year tradition in Seattle, this exhibit has an elaborate display of countless trains just like the one you’re riding, only shrunk down about 300,000 times. CHILDREN’S FILM FESTIVAL SEATTLE Northwest Film Forum January 21-31 TICKET PRICE TBA
nwfilmforum.org The largest film festival on the West Coast dedicated to family-friendly movies for the kids.
Purchase passes and learn more at TacomaMuseumDistrict.org 28
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AUTHORS, PUBLISHERS, AND READERS OF INDEPENDENT LITERATURE FESTIVAL Capitol Hill March 14-20
Greg Grieco
Itzhak Perlman
FREE
aprilfestival.com The name might be a little misleading, but the APRIL festival is happening in March, and it’s an opportunity to get exposed to small press publishers and writers in the Northwest.
Benaroya Hall
February 29 TICKET PRICES VARY seattle-theatre.com HE PERFORMED ON THE “Ed Sullivan Show” at age 13, at President Barack Obama’s inauguration and guest-starred on “Sesame Street.” Perlman is considered one of the greatest violinists to ever rosin a bow. Aside from headlining acts across the world with names such as Yo-Yo Ma, Placido Domingo and Emmanuel Ax, he’s also reached legendary status for his work in films. Perlman’s solo performance in the theme of Schindler’s List went on to win the Academy Award for Best Original Score at the 66th Oscars. He’s also won several Emmy’s and more Grammy’s than The Beatles. Naturally, the best only performs with the best instruments. Perlman plays the Sauret Guarneri del Gesu and Soil Stradivarius violin, crafted by the world’s greatest violin makers in 1743 and 1714 respectively. 30TH SEATTLE IMPROVISED MUSIC FESTIVAL Good Shepherd Center February 4-6 $5-$15 DONATION
waywardmusic.org Like nothing you’ve heard before; all the performances are purely free-form music. FREE PARK DAYS Mount Rainier & Olympic national parks February 13-15 FREE
nps.gov Celebrate Presidents’ Day weekend at the highest mountain in the Pacific Northwest. Mount Rainier was once visited by Theodore Roosevelt, William Taft and Harry
Truman. Also explore the coastal rainforest at Olympic National Park, originally created by Theodore Roosevelt and officially designated as a national park by Franklin Roosevelt in 1938. CUPID’S UNDIE RUN Art Marble 21 February 20 January 16-February 5 EARLY REGISTRATION $45, FEBRUARY 6-FEBRUARY 13, $55
cupidsundierun.com Relive college for a day. And don’t worry about being ticketed for indecency; this run’s for charity. CHILLY HILLY Bainbridge Island Ferry Ramp February 28 TICKET PRICE TBA
cascade.org This annual kick-off to the cycling season, named “one of four classic rides in the nation” by Bicycling Magazine, loops thirty-three miles around the perimeter of the island, and offers plenty of Puget Sound views. PACIFIC NORTHWEST REGIONAL YO-YO CHAMPIONSHIPS Seattle Center February 20
HOP SCOTCH BEER & SCOTCH FESTIVAL Fremont Studios March 25-26 TICKET PRICES TBA
hopscotchtasting.com There are too many beer festivals in the Northwest to count, but not many are also dedicated to Winston Churchill and Humphrey Bogart’s spirit of choice, so you’ll want to attend this one.
BELLINGHAM DR. STEPHEN ROBINSON: THIS SIDE OF IMPOSSIBLE— ACHIEVING THE DREAM OF SPACEFLIGHT Mount Baker Theatre February 6 $10-$29
mountbakertheatre.com If you were blown away by Gravity, or you ever wanted to be an astronaut as a kid, you won’t want to miss this dynamic presentation. Dr. Stephen Robinson, a thirty-six year veteran of NASA, will give a rare insider’s look into the space program as he talks about four of his missions into space.
FREE
seattlecenter.com Give your eyeballs a workout trying to keep up with the best yo-yoers in the region as they perform tricks that make walking the dog look like child’s play.
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Vancouver, BC EVENTS CALENDAR
SHEN YUN SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA Queen Elizabeth Theatre January 22-24 CA$60-$170
shenyun.com Unlike your typical symphonic performance in the United States, the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra incorporates classic Chinese instruments such as the two-stringed, high pitched erhus and Chinese lutes known as pipas. CALGARY FLAMES VS. VANCOUVER CANUCKS Rogers Arena February 6 CA$60-$334.25
canucks.nhl.com Last year was the first time the bitter rivals faced off in the playoffs in more than a decade. In game two alone, both sides spent 132 minutes in the penalty box. If you want to see Canadian hockey with tensions at their highest, this is the game to attend.
HSBC World Rugby Sevens Series Round Six BC Place
March 12-13 TICKET PRICES VARY canadasevens.com THE WORLD’S TOP SEVEN-MAN rugby squads are making a stop in Vancouver this March. It’s the first chance for rugby fans to see national powerhouses such as the All Blacks, Springboks and Wallabies playing in Canada. The World Sevens Series consists of ten tournaments in ten countries, with the title awarded at the end of the season to the team accumulates the most points based on tournament placing. All Blacks rugby is followed like a religion in New Zealand and the Kiwis owned the Series in its early years, winning the first six titles. Now, other teams such as South Africa, Fiji and Samoa are emerging to international prominence. Rugby is making its Olympic debut this summer in Rio de Janiero and this is one of the last opportunities to see these athletes on the pitch before they head to Brazil.
ontrakmag.com
VANCOUVER DINE OUT VANCOUVER FESTIVAL Citywide January 15-31 TICKET PRICES TBA
dineoutvancouver.com Canada’s largest food and drink festival offers a taste of Western Canada’s finest cuisine at restaurants throughout the city and events such as chef-led dining explorations, brunch crawls and street food markets. PUSH INTERNATIONAL PERFORMING ARTS FESTIVAL 110-750 Hamilton St. January 19-February 7 CA$60-$208 FOR PUSH PASSES, SINGLE TICKET PRICES VARY
pushfestival.ca Acclaimed international, Canadian, and local stars converge on stage to perform contemporary dance. VANCOUVER HOT CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL Citywide Late January-early February PRICES VARY
cityfood.com Cafés, wine bars and bakeries across the metropolitan area conjure and serve their most creative nontraditional hot chocolate flavors, such as past year’s favorites Barry Callebaut White Chocolate, Mountain Berry Marshmallow and Five Spice Dragon.
CHINESE NEW YEAR PARADE Chinatown February 7 FREE
vancouversbestplaces.com With the second-highest Chinese population in Canada, Vancouver always puts on an authentic and jubilant New Year’s celebration. VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Various venues February 12-20 $17 IN ADVANCE, $19 AT DOOR
viff.org One of the largest film festivals in North America, VIFF showcases movies from some of the top-rising filmmakers. JFL NORTHWEST Various venues February 18-27 TICKET PRICES TBA
jflnorthwest.com NorthWest Comedy Fest partnered up with Just For Laughs, the biggest comedy brand in the world, to present this ten-day event of sketch, standup and improv comedy. VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL WINE FESTIVAL Citywide February 20-28
WINTERRUPTION Granville Island Third week in February FREE
granvilleisland.com Winter can become bleary, but this art, music and dance festival will brighten the season. FESTIVAL DU BOIS Mackin Park March 4-6 $12 FOR ADULTS, $5 FOR CHILDREN 12 AND UNDER, $30 FOR FAMILIES OF 4
vancouversbestplaces.com Calling all burley boys: If you’ve got a beard, you’re eligible to compete for the title of 2016 lumberjack at the largest francophone festival on the West Coast. VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL DANCE FESTIVAL Various venues March dates TBA TICKET PRICES TBA
vidf.ca See some of the top acts from Canada and beyond perform styles of multicultural dance. CELTICFEST Granville Street March 10-17 SOME EVENTS ARE FREE
celticfestvancouver.com Whatever you do, don’t forget to wear green. PLAYDOME BC Place March 14-22 $29
bcplacestadium.com Kids can get restless during the cold, rainy months. Take them to Canada’s largest indoor carnival and they’ll have plenty to keep them occupied with more than forty-five rides and attractions. VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL AUTO SHOW Vancouver Convention Centre March 23-27 WEEKEND PRICES: $18 ADULTS, FREE FOR CHILDREN 6 AND UNDER
vancouverinternationalautoshow.com Whether you’re looking for a new self-driving car (yep, those exist now), or a diesel-guzzling pickup with a hemi under the hood, this is the place to find your next automobile.
TICKET PRICES TBA
vanwinefest.ca 156 wineries from fourteen countries across the world will be on hand at the event. This year’s theme is Italy, so there should be plenty of Piedmont vintages to go around.
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Outdoors
33. Outdoors | 34. Gear Up | 36. Notes from the Adventure | 40. Weekenders
Winter Surfing in Tofino BY CHARYN PFEUFFER
PHOTOS BY KEVIN LIGHT
AHH, THE REMOTE SURF mecca of Tofino! Though it sounds as if it could be a tropical island in a Mediterranean archipelago, Tofino is situated at the south end of Clayoquot Sound on the western coast of Vancouver Island. Nevertheless, this small town (population 1,876) has more than twenty miles of beach break, and a strong, consistent swell during winter months making it a prime Pacific Northwest surf destination. If it weren’t for the weather, Tofino beaches would feel much like Hawaii—rugged, exotic and surrounded by wilderness. Unlike Hawaii, water temperatures stay a constant 50°F, so a 4/3 wetsuit is de rigueur. Though it lacks in tropical temperatures, Tofino’s warmth comes from its communal vibe, especially for women. While many surfing communities are male dominant, Tofino is extraordinary in that you’ll find nearly as many women in the water as men. There’s also an annual all-women Queen of the Peak surf competition that celebrates West Coast female talent. For beginners, “Tofino is one of the best places to learn how to surf,” said Krissy Montgomery, owner of Surf Sister. Huge tides create mellow waves; there’s plenty of room for all surfers to learn or advance their skills in the postcard-perfect surroundings. ontrakmag.com
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Outdoors GEAR
You’ re Invited... Jeremy Koreski
AFTANAS SURFBOARDS 1024 Campbell Street | Tofino, BC | 250.725.2211 | aftanas.ca Owner Stefan Aftanas has been designing and shaping custom surfboards for more than sixteen years. He also runs Board-Medic, a business that repairs damaged surfboards. SLINGSHOT SPORTS 1218 Wasco Street Hood River, OR 509.427.4950 slingshotsports.com For paddlers who want something between a rigid and inflatable SUP board, Slingshot’s hybrid soft top Crossbreed is the answer.
MOMENT SURF COMPANY 33260 Cape Kiwanda Drive Pacific City, OR | 503.483.1025 momentsurfco.com Stock up on surf gear essentials, plus locally-made surfboards by North Pacific Surfboards, Russo Surfboards and Northwest Surf Design. KIALOA PADDLES 747 SE Business Way Bend, OR | kialoa.com Hawaiian Dave Chun made Bend, Oregon his home and, from there, makes the industry’s best stand-up paddles.
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...to our Estate Tasting Room to enjoy our tasting flights and daily food pairings menu. The setting is warm with cozy fireplaces, relaxing seating areas, open kitchen for live cooking demonstrations and expansive decks with a panoramic view of the valley.
Open Daily | 11 am - 6 pm
Where to go
Cox Bay, named in honor of British Merchant John Henry Cox, has the most consistent beach break in the area. It can get big and rippy in the winter, but its flat, sandy bottom is a thing of surfers’ dreams. Locals go to Florencia Bay (aka Wreck Beach or “Flo” for short), located at the south end of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Hugged by old-growth forests, the picturesque beach is a twenty-five-minute drive south of Tofino, but uncrowded waves make it well worth the trek. 2010, Outside MagaIn zine declared Chesterman Beach “one of the best beginner breaks in North America.” It’s Canada’s most popular beach for learning how to surf. Feeling adventurous?
www.WillametteValleyVineyards.com 8800 Enchanted Way SE · Turner, OR 97392 · 503-588-9463 · info@wvv.com Jim Bernau, Founder/Winegrower
Try your hand at standup paddle surfing with T’ashii Paddle School (tofinopaddle.com), a First Nations-owned and -operated business. Owner and instructor Emre Bosut leads experiential courses that combine local culture with basic theory. For an even wilder experience, check out Bruhwiler Surf School’s (bruhwilersurf.com) remote surf tours that
take enthusiasts to difficult-to-access surf locales via boat.
Places to rent in Tofino SEPP BRUHWILER’S WESTSIDE SURF 150 4 St. 250.725.2404 LIVE TO SURF 1184 Pacific Rim Hwy. 250.725.4464 STORM SURF SHOP 444 Campbell St. 250.725.3344 ontrakmag.com
Downtown Portland's Eastside Luxury Boutique hoteleastlund.com
NOW OPEN! Your experience begins at $169
Your experience begins at $169
503.235.2100
EASTLUND
Notes From The Adventure TRAVELER’S GUIDE TO FUN
C
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Meet. Eat. Sleep. %HDXWLIXO *XHVW 5RRPV +RW %UHDNIDVW %XIIHW &RPSOLPHQWDU\ :LIL DQG %XVLQHVV 6HUYLFHV )LQH 'LQLQJ 5HVWDXUDQW 2Q 6LWH 1RUWKZHVW &XLVLQH )XOO %DU )XOO 6HUYLFH &DWHULQJ Minutes from the Salem, Oregon Amtrak Station Complimentary shuttle to and from The Grand Hotel
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The Nordic Mecca of Methow Valley
TOP: Edward Sheriff Curtis, Assiniboin Mother and Child (detail), 1926, plate 632 from the portfolio The North American Indian, volume 10, The Kwakiutl, photogravure; BOTTOM: Wendy Red Star, Untitled, 2015, Courtesy of artist.
Skiing town to town with family in tow
James Harnois
BY KEVIN MAX
ALONG THE EASTERN watershed of Washington’s North Cascades, just south of the Canadian border, small hiccups of towns pop along the Methow River. There is (north to south) Mazama, Winthrop and Twisp. In winter, this is the setting of the Nordic skiing mecca of the Pacific Northwest. With more than 120 miles of trails perfectly groomed for Nordic skiing, the Methow Valley feels like a local version of the Austrian Tirol region, where towns are connected by flawlessly groomed ski trails. There are many ways to do the Methow Valley right. One is to book a hut or 36
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James Harnois
huts through the Rendezvous Huts system (rendezvoushuts.com), about ten miles north of Winthrop. During peak season, the five huts cost around $200 per night and sleep eight to ten people. Ski in with packs on your back or get snowmobile
transport for your gear. We had an agenda that included junior ski races and opted for the more accessible Sun Mountain Lodge, a classic ski lodge on the edge of rustic and chic, and with views of the Methow Valley and the Okano-
ABOVE Skiing Methow Valley’s more than 120 miles of trails. LEFT A Rendezvous Hut sleeps eight to ten.
gan-Wenatchee National Forest. Walk out the door and onto sixty kilometers of groomed trails right from the lodge. You can rent skis and snowshoes at the lodge, too. Rooms run $200 to $300 per night during the height of ski season. About six miles up Patterson Lake Road and away from Winthrop, Sun Mountain Lodge has a range of dining options, from fine dining with table cloths and wine to a casual grill with a split pine bar and craft beer taps. The first day, we hit the Methow Valley Nordic Festival, an event that brings in Nordic ontrakmag.com
CONTEMPORARY NATIVE Zig Jackson PHOTOGRAPHERS AND THE Wendy Red Star EDWARD CURTIS LEGACY Will Wilson FEBRUARY 6 – MAY 8
portlandartmuseum.org
503-540-7800 201 Liberty St. SE Salem, OR 97301 GrandHotelSalem.com info@grandhotelsalem.com
Outdoors skiers of all levels, but mostly at the higher levels. There are citizen races for the people more serious about competition aversion, like me. Sight-skiing, I call it. If that sounds too aggressive, bring a camera and stop to use it often. The next day, we jumped on the trails surrounding Sun Mountain Lodge. These hills are alive with the sound of music. We were gone for hours and lost in beauty before heading back to the lodge for a hot tub, a change of clothes and drinks by the fire. We had dinner in the lodge bar and grill, then read books under thick down blankets in our room. “Nerdic” skiers at rest. The next day, we drove back into picture-perfect Winthrop and plundered the literary riches of Trail’s End Bookstore, avoiding any titles with “The So and So’s Son” or “The So and So’s Daughter.” A few doors down was a leavened heaven of pastries— Rocking Horse Bakery. Winthrop is a former gold mining town along the Methow River of no more than 2,000 people and storefronts that have been built or restored to turn-of-the-century Western-style. The town was named for Theodore Winthrop, an 1848 Yale University graduate who came west to enjoy the open air before fighting in and dying for the Union Army in the American Civil War. The officer reportedly got up on a stump and bravely offered, “One more charge boys, and the day is ours.” Just then, he took a musket ball to the heart. Our ski outing on this day was a point-to-point 38
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that began in Winthrop and winded thirty kilometers north to Mazama. While my wife and kids made that trek, I shuttled the car to Mazama. “Thirty more kilometers, ladies, and this trail is yours!” I thought as I drove away. In the lee of the towering Goat Wall in Mazama, I clipped into my skis and departed on a three-hour ski through forested woodlands, past farms and along the valley floor as sunlight increasingly burned off the mist of morning fog. All trails lead to the Mazama Store, which is billed as “a little bit of everything good.” This made for a good rendezvous point for lunch. The bustling general store has local gourmet cheese, wine, soups, sandwiches, a deli counter and a small eating area. We grabbed a bottle of locally made Lost River cabernet sauvignon for later that night. Back in Winthrop, while Sarah and the girls alienated me with light, indiscriminant shopping (as they often do), I took a detour to the brewery (as I often do). The Old Schoolhouse Brewery
should play some prominent role in any trip to this area. Backing up to the crystal clear Methow River, Old Schoolhouse makes really good beer from this local water. I tried on the national award-winning imperial stout, which fit me well. That night, we lit out for Twisp, about nine miles south, a small town of 900 people, where an Italian restaurant, Tappi, is its cultural center. Discovering Tappi, a tiny restaurant built around an open kitchen and wood-fired oven, is like a collector stumbling upon a signed rare book at a garage sale—unexpected and thrilling. It brings together pizza and pasta traditions of the owner’s heritage in northern and southern Italy. Though we kicked and glided and strode for three days straight, we managed to skim only the surface of the vast trail network of the Methow Valley. As we departed for Oregon, I wondered what the winter trails would look like for running in summer.
Eat Tappi Wood-fired Italian goodness and house-made pasta that takes you back to small-town Italy. 201 Glover Street, Twisp 509.997.3345 tappitwisp.com
Rocking Horse Bakery A killer bakery in the heart of Winthrop. Breads, pastries, soup and sandwiches are Rocking Horse specialties. 265 Riverside Avenue, Winthrop 509.996.4241 rockinghorsebakery.com
Stay Sun Mountain Lodge A beautiful property well-situated for skiers. It has rooms with hand-crafted furniture, a dining room, a bar and grill, a spa and 60 kilometers of skiing out the door. 604 Patterson Lake Road, Winthrop 509.996.2211 sunmountainlodge.com
Rendezvous Huts Five cozy huts spaced in 8K intervals along groomed trails outside of Mazama. Huts come with a full kitchen and sleeping pads for eight to ten people. Winthrop 509.996.8100 rendezvoushuts.com
Play Methow Trails Expect 200 kilometers of groomed trails through the scenic Methow Valley. An adult day pass is $24. Kids 17 and young ski free. 309 Riverside Avenue, Winthrop 509.996.3287 methowtrails.org
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Weekender
Weekender
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
EAT Harmon Brewing Company harmonbrewingco.com
Over the Moon Café overthemooncafe.net
Shakabrah Java facebook.com/shakabrahjava
STAY Hotel Murano hotelmuranotacoma.com
PLAY Museum of Glass
Permanent Chihuly collection; live glass-blowing demonstrations, and DIY fused glass tile museumofglass.org
Tacoma Art Museum
Permanent and changing exhibits, including Art AIDS America through January 10 tacomaartmuseum.org
LeMay – America’s Car Museum
Cars old and new, plus fun activities for kids americascarmuseum.org
Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium The 700-acre Point Defiance park also has walking trails, beaches with tide pools, picnic areas and a playground. pdza.org metroparkstacoma.org
Breakfast at Shakabrah Java
The Museums of Tacoma
D.Y.K. Did You Know?
BY SOPHIA MCDONALD
WHEN MY HUSBAND and I decided to spend a weekend exploring Tacoma’s museums with our 2-year-old twins, we were apprehensive about finding enough to keep everyone busy. Tacoma may have a reputation as playing second fiddle to Seattle, but it is first rate when it comes to family entertainment. Our museum experience seemed to start as soon as we reached the Hotel Murano. Each floor features glass sculptures from a different artist. It was a good preface for a visit to the Museum of Glass the following morning. The highlight for me was watching artists shape glass in the hot shop. Dad and the kids enjoyed the Dale Chihuly sculptures. While the girls begged for
George R. Stroemple Collection OPPOSITE The hot shop at the Museum of Glass. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Classic cars on display at LeMay Car Museum. Indoor exhibits at the Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium. One of Dale Chiluly’s Venetian pieces on display at the Museum of Glass. The Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium carousel.
John Froschauer Museum of Glass
pizza for lunch, my husband was itching for televised football, so we walked to Harmon Brewing Company. We weren’t brave enough to try the PB&B burger (a beef patty topped with peanut butter and bacon jam). Nonetheless, the burgers, pies and beer we did consume were delicious.
Art glass and luxury at Hotel Murano
My husband took nap duty so I could check out the Tacoma Art Museum. The current special exhibit is Art AIDS America, which explores the role art played in raising awareness and spurring action during the AIDS crisis in the 1980s. It was an educational, deeply moving look into our coun-
Jellyfish at Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium
Stephen Cridland
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try’s not-so-distant past. Fully rested, the kids dove headlong into the activities at the LeMay Car Museum. Besides admiring dozens of vehicles built over the past 100 years, they loved building and racing pinewood cars and climbing behind the wheel of a 1920s Dodge in the Family Zone. Older kids would enjoy driving one of the racing simulators. My sister came down from Seattle to spend the afternoon with us, and babysat for us so my husband and I could have dinner out. We’d heard good things ontrakmag.com
about Over the Moon Café in the historic St. Helens area. With an emphasis on Italian and French cuisine, a highlight was the wild Pacific Coho salmon with warm bacon jam and duck breast in a port reduction. The wine list focused on Washington and Italian bottles, with a measure of Oregon and California, too. On the way back, we made a decadent detour to Hello, Cupcake for French toast and salted caramel cupcakes. Our plan was to spend Sunday morning at the Point Defiance Zoo and Aquarium. On the way there, we
found Shakabrah Java on 6th Avenue, one of Tacoma’s best breakfast spots. This bakery and café is famous for its outsized and delicious omelets and pancakes. The coffee was good, too. At the zoo, we stayed indoors to ogle the jellyfish and touch sharks and stingrays in the aquarium. In the summer, there are more options outdoors, playing in the Kids’ Zone or going to the park for a picnic by the water. While we headed back to the train station on a wet November day, we plotted a warm-weather return.
Harold LeMay amassed one of the largest private car collections in the world prior to his death in 2000. Harold LeMay Enterprises was once the 10th largest refuse disposal company in the country. LeMay also invested in real estate and owned several other car-related businesses. His family continues to collect vintage cars today. The Washington State Historical Society sells a Tacoma Museum Pass, which entitles bearers to discounts at four Tacoma museums. Purchase one at washingtonhistory.org Dale Chihuly, one of the world’s most famous glass artists, was born in Tacoma in 1941. He studied art at the University of Washington. In 1971, he co-founded the Pilchuck Glass School in Stanwood, a small town north of Seattle. Among the sweet treats that got their start in Tacoma: Baskin-Robbins ice cream, Milky Way bars and Almond Roca (the latter’s production facility is still here). A bridge between Pacific Avenue and the Museum of Glass has large display cases with dozens of Chihuly sculptures. View his art there if you’re short on time or cash. WINTER 2016 |
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Weekender SIR
ENS PUB
Weekender
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR WEEKEND
EAT Primo Bistro Enjoy French-inspired Pacific Northwest cuisine and an extensive wine list featuring a bounty of local varietals (plus live music every Thursday). 201 1/2 1st St., Langley 360.221.4060 primabistro.com
A warm place to grab a hearty bite and a stiff drink. Opt for the Puget Sound cioppino and a local beer from Port Townsend Brewery.
Alchemy Bistro & Wine Bar In Port Townsend, savor Mediterranean food and wine in a delightful space created by the owners of Sirens pub, another local favorite. 842 Washington St., Port Townsend 360.385.5225 alchemybistroandwinebar.com
T LANGLE NA Y N I
STAY Wyat Taylor The passing of a storm on Whidbey Island.
A luxurious refuge where you can escape the weather without leaving the natural beauty of the outdoors.
SA
OG RAT A INN
A comfortable atmosphere with refreshing vistas. Curl up next to the fireplace or rock the afternoon away on the porch.
E OR
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ON
Stormwatching BY CORINNE WHITING
IN SUMMER MONTHS, ferry queues stretch enormously long with island-bound cars. Excited, sunglass-wielding folks clamor as they snap ferry deck selfies, soaking up the Pacific Northwest summer. In winter, however, these crowds dwindle, and only those in the know cross over to the is-
EY
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Edmund Lowe A thunderstorm rolls over Port Townsend.
In the state of Washington, Whidbey is the largest island (followed by Orcas).
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lands. Winter travelers—clad in warmer and waterproof clothing—realize that, across these steely gray waters, a divine secret awaits. Envision curling up in a soft chair—wool blanket on lap, steaming latte (or Irish coffee) in hand—gazing out at nature’s tempestuous tantrums from the comfort
of your accommodations. From November through March, winter storms pummel the Pacific Coast. Moody skies swirl, clouds race, winds howl, and swells spray, churning up a spectacle you won’t soon forget. For prime storm watching from all sides, head to Whidbey Island in Washington. Although the fifty-milelong island can be experienced sans car, having a vehicle proves much easier. Consider making
VISIT WHIDBEY’S GREENBANK FARM
EXPLORE WHIDBEY’S DECEPTION PASS
WANDER THE LOVELY GROUNDS OF FORT WORDEN
A one-stop-shopping hub for all things delicious; pick up some local cheese and wine for later, and enjoy a slice of seasonal pie accompanied by a cup of Whidbey Coffee.
A strait separating Whidbey Island and Fidalgo Island. Afterward, pop into local favorite, the Shrimp Shack.
In Port Townsend, this former military base that starred in the 1982 blockbuster hit An Officer and a Gentleman, featuring Richard Gere and Debra Winger. Point Wilson is the best spot for watching storms.
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the charming Langley your storm-watching headquarters, traveling to the island via a twenty-minute ferry that shuttles to Clinton from Mukilteo on the mainland. Note: The Everett Amtrak station is a fifteen-minute drive from the Mukilteo ferry dock. Once on Whidbey, a free weekday bus runs between the Clinton ferry and Langley. On terra firma in Whidbey, travel about eight miles from Clinton to the Inn at Langley, a decadent refuge where rooms come with a private, waterfront deck and a fireplace. “It’s great sitting in the window seats with a drink and a fire,” said Matt Costello, the Inn’s award-winning chef and general manager. “The view is really expansive, so you can see the great reach of the clouds … makes you feel ontrakmag.com
small. The waves can really build, and you get these great crashes against the bulkhead below your room.” In a layout designed to complement the outdoor marvels, you can relax in a soaking tub while simultaneously watching the fire and the sea, or savor a spa treatment in a room from which you can hear the crashing waves outside. “Our motto is that the Inn at Langley is a retreat, not a resort,” said Costello. “It’s where the forest meets the sea. At those intersections is where the greatest transformations take place, so the design tries to provide the best vantage point to witness this.” If you dare to brave the elements, Costello recommends driftwood-dotted Double Bluff Beach in South Whidbey as “without a doubt, the best storm-watching spot on
the island.” Other fantastic swell-spotting hangouts in Langley include waterfront venues Village Pizzeria, Portico Latin Bistro, the Primo Bistro and the Ott and Murphy winery. Elsewhere on the island, adventurous people bundle up to brave the weather at Fort Casey (with old bunkers to explore), Fort Ebey and Deception Pass. Consider a detour off the island via the Coupeville ferry, which lands you in the heart of downtown Port Townsend, another welcoming gem anchored by history, the arts, small-town charm and a mellow, modern-day buzz. When storms blow in, grab a warm seat at one of Port Townsend’s waterfront spots—Sirens Pub and Belmont Restaurant. Get cozy, order something tasty and enjoy the show.
The Inn at Langley An island retreat perched above the Saratoga Passage, this luxury hotel and spa offers coastal and mountain views from every room as well as delectable, seasonal fare prepared by award-winning Chef Matt Costello. 400 First St., Langley 360.221.3033 innatlangley.com
Saratoga Inn Enjoy beauty and charm in this venue that has water views, fireplaces, homemade breakfast, hot beverages throughout the day and an afternoon treat of wine and cheese. 201 Cascade Ave., Langley 360.221.5801 saratogainnwhidbeyisland.com
PLAY Fort Ebey State Park While on Whidbey, be sure to explore Fort Ebey State Park, a 645-acre camping park that has three miles of saltwater shoreline on the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a freshwater lake and miles of hiking and biking trails. 400 Hill Valley Dr., Coupeville 360.678.4636 parks.state.wa.us
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DROP IN DROP IN The Best Fitness Stops on the Amtrak Cascades Journey BY ANDES HRUBY ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRENDAN LOSCAR
Travel is an invitation to indulge. Here are some secrets to successful travel fitness that still allow you to embrace every beer and bite—without losing tone or being terrorized by your calorie counter or Fitbit.
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SCHEDULE IT
EAT IT
MOVE IT
START FRESH
Schedule your fitness the same way you schedule the best restaurants, zoos, breweries and wineries. A great way to understand and immerse in a city is to get sweaty with locals. Forget Yelping. The best app to make sure you hightail it to class is Yogapanda in Seattle. The creator and inventor, Rahmouni Othmane, is a product-managing madman in touch with technology who spends eighteen hours a day on his computer. To save his body and serve his soul, he created Yogapanda. It allows the user to sign up for classes and pre-pay directly from the phone. No membership is needed, drop-ins are encouraged, diversity is assured, and it’s as green as bamboo using only a barcode with no paper trail. “I wanted to do more yoga because it helped my body, but due to my international business demands, I needed classes all over Seattle at strange hours, with a different style or focus,” Othmane said. “At Yogapanda, we help you find and book yoga classes at local yoga studios on a drop-in basis directly from your phone. The bonus is the pricing is set based on how busy each class is.” The app will also notify you of upcoming events such as: The Wake Morning Yoga and Dance party, which kicks off at 6 a.m. and is followed by raging local DJs. Talk about a new way to get psyched for a meeting.
Going out on an empty belly leads to severe indigestion when stomach acids and enzymes clash, causing reflux. Nibble on a salad in the train’s dining car. If the body’s hunger alarm is ringing when you arrive in Olympia, you might enjoy the delights at La Petite Masion, but order a cup instead of a bowl when you decide to gorge on the lobster porridge.
Sitting is the new shadow of fatality. On the road, the body is forced to sit. The train allows us the best possible way to travel for a healthy body and back. We can twist, stretch, throw our arms up in the air, practice numerous chair yoga poses, and even stand safely. (It is recommended to stand at least twenty minutes out of each hour to offset varicose veins and blood clots.) Chairs recline to keep the discs in our back from compressing. Still take time on your next stop to sweat it out.
The mind has a self-imposed cycle. If it gets high off success, like a Pavlovian dog it repeats that behavior. It can also quickly become addicted to failure. The people who put on an average three to five pounds when traveling are the ones who feel guilty about their indulgent behavior and decide it can’t be fixed. Every day is an opportunity to be better balanced. Even the most disciplined person slips, but what they succeed at doing is getting back on track.
SIP IT Be it a pint of IPA at Breakside Brewery or a glass at Enso Winery in Portland, embrace your oenophile, but every time you see the bottom of your glass, drink eight ounces of water. To balance metabolic function with consumption, you need to take time in between each empty glass to hydrate. Water is the key to our electrolyte balance, managing sodium and calcium to keep muscles contracting and reacting. Forget hand sanitizer. Water is the first defense against infection.
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ATTACK IT It is important to know what foods are your weakness, and when and how to avoid them. Make a conscious effort to aggressively navigate away from the downfalls of popcorn balls or chicken wings. Bugs Bunny had it right—munch on raw vegetables from the farmers’ market in Kelso. By the time you are ready for Tukwila and Westfield Southcenter Mall, you can eat something substantial from Dukes Chowder House without guilt or overdoing it. Duke’s specializes in bringing Alaska to your plate and palette with Smart Catch—a 100 percent support system for environmentally sustainable fishing practices. Feel the karma.
6 OF OUR FAVORITE DROPINS ALONG THE AMTRAK CASCADES ROUTE
SALEM
EUGENE
Why we like Courthousefit: Clean, with a pool, courts and an updated cardio room with some free weights that are old school. Rocking “club” style dance class. Talented Zumba instructors with moves like Jagger. “Our main focus is warm welcome,” said marketing manager Michael Miller, “Our goal is to have something for everyone: (from a) quick swim to shooting hoops, a steam or sweaty group training class like Club Dance. Courthouse has it and we love drop-ins!"
Hard Core Yoga 2734 Shadow View Dr. 541.729.5031 yogaeugene.com
6mi EUGENE STATION
Why we like Hard Core Yoga: GI Jane meets the Dali Lama. Balance of physical exercise, stretching and peacefulness. Beautiful bamboo floors. Not too touchy-feely for those who are just visiting. Hands-on adjustments are on a need basis, while help modifying is de rigueur.
CUT IT Revere the toothpick and the mini fork. Little tastings or samples keep you on track because eating slowly, savoring one bite at a time, is better than consuming calories that will stick on your waist. It takes twenty minutes for your stomach to tell your brain it is full. Eating small bites at Pike Place Market in Seattle is a marvelous way to indulge in organic moments or farm-to-table chefs. Nine acres of snacking will fill your belly slowly without sabotage.
Courthouse Fitness 300 Glen Creek Rd. NW 503.588.2582 courthousefit.com
2.5mi SALEM STATION
PORTLAND ALBANY Willamette Valley Power Yoga 208 SW 5th Ave. 541.971.1046 willamettevalleypoweryoga.com
.4mi ALBANY STATION
Why we like Willamette Power Yoga: They focus on the big picture by supporting causes. They also have a sense of humor, community classes, Baptiste-style vinyasa flow with warm (but not hot) rooms. They host yoga nights for dudes and for couples, and yoga parties with live DJs. “Our focus here is about community and that includes anyone traveling through town," said co-owner Melinda Cotner. "We are all about walk ins and drop ins and encourage spontaneity ... When we (the owners) are on the road, we are always looking for great places to drop in for yoga and from the beginning, wanted our studio to be a place of rest and rejuvenation for the traveler in all of us.”
SLURP IT Sipping on soup as an appetizer or between meals is a great way to cut back on consumption. Soups encourage easy passage from the small to large intestine and enhance mineral absorption. You can’t get a bigger bowl of nutrients than the famous tomato bisque at Chanterelle’s in Edmonds. ontrakmag.com
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BurnCycle 910 NW 10th Ave. (Pearl District) 503.946.8618 burncyclepdx.com
UNION STATION
4.6mi
Why we like Burncycle: Slick, powerful, proud, shiny and free from self-worship. Limited kitsch and focus on the flywheel. If you didn’t pack your cycling shoes, you can rent some. Awesome energy. You can burn a few calories just talking to studio visionary, Jessi Duley. “BurnCycle embraces the energy visitors and travelers bring to classes, and we love expending our Burn Army!" said Duley. BurnCycle classes can fill up quickly. Check the schedule a few days in advance to ensure there will be room in the class. New riders need to make an online profile in order to sign up for classes. Don't forget socks and a water bottle.
Yoga Union 2305 SE 50th Ave. #100 503.235.9642 yogaunioncwc.com
.5mi
UNION STATION
Why we like Yoga Union: No snarky snobbery if you are not a yoga bikini babe. Support for all levels. Less woowoo and a lot of focus on anatomy. Extensive classes for every weird work schedule. Baskets of washcloths if you forget a towel. You often see teachers in classes and workshops. BAR METHOD: 3 LOCATIONS ALONG THE CASCADES ROUTE
1.2mi
Vancouver 837 Beatty St. vancouver.barmethod.com
PACIFIC CENTRAL STATION
Seattle 124 Westlake Ave. N seattle.barmethod.com
1.8mi
Portland 904 Northwest Hoyt St. portland.barmethod.com
KING STREET STATION UNION STATION
.3mi
Why we like the Bar Method: Burning thighs come alive! Posture perfect. Endurance without crazy cardio. Caring and not condescending. Excellent quality instructors. Spotless, modern and well maintained. The Bar Method is a series of isometric workouts that target specific muscle groups. Motto: strengthen, tone and lengthen. "The Bar Method conditions you from head to toe, using your own body resistance and small weights,” said Denise Buchard, a Portland studio owner and instructor. “The Bar Method appeals to a wide variety of ages and abilities because it is low impact yet intense.” There is no choreography. Two left feet work just fine. WINTER 2016 |
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GO BY TRAIN PHOTOS BY ERIC ROSE
In the shadows and reflections of boarding platforms, the ornate architecture of century-old stations, the sense of freedom on the faces of vacationers, and even in the minutiae of an everyday commute, train travel invokes a certain romance. It can be a chance to slow down, dream and reconnect, if you choose to allow it. For more photos of this adventure, go to ontrakmag.com/gallery
BRINGING MUSIC BACK Ethos fills the musical void in underserved communities. BY AMY DOAN PHOTOS BY NINA LEE JOHNSON
Ethos student Cada Gerrans (far left) and her Death by Thumb bandmates.
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CADA GERRANS IS ONLY 13, but she’s faced challenges that would break most adults. She lost seven family members in three years. Her single mom struggled to cover household bills with a grocery store job, so Cada qualified for free lunch at Portland Public Schools during elementary school. Through these rough patches, Cada’s love of music has helped her persevere. For more than half of her life, she’s studied voice, piano and bass guitar at nonprofit Ethos Music Center in Portland, performing in local venues every chance she gets. She recently covered “Dog Days Are Over” by Florence + The Machine at a Portland performance, nailing the tricky runs and pulling the crowd to its feet. As it has with thousands of other kids, Ethos has given Cada a chance to heal, and to shine. “When I’m singing, I can forget everything else,” she said. “The teachers, my bandmates, the audience—they’re so loving and supportive. They’re the complete opposite of those mean teachers you see on ‘Glee.’” Cada got hooked on music when she was seven and took a free Ethos music class at Vernon Elementary in North Portland. Once too shy to raise her hand in class, she’s now a magnetic performontrakmag.com
er who counts Adele, Amy Winehouse, Led Zeppelin, The Beatles and Janis Joplin among her influences. When she’s not singing solo, she fronts a band called Death By Thumb, which recently opened for The Dandy Warhols at The Crystal Ballroom in Portland. Cada’s mother, Margaret Gerrans, calls Ethos “a lifeline” for her family. “It’s hard for me to talk about Ethos without sounding sappy,” she said. “The state of music funding is pitiful, but every child in Oregon should have music in their lives like Cada does.” Ethos is working toward that goal. The nonprofit has come a long way since its founding in 1998, when it first started offering a handful of music classes in a University of Portland basement. Founder Charles Lewis got the idea for Ethos while researching his thesis at Harvard’s graduate school of Public Policy. He had grown up in poverty and attended the University of Portland as an undergraduate, graduating magna cum laude. He credits his academic success to early music exposure. But he grew up before the flurry of arts cutbacks in the 1990s. Crunching numbers for his thesis, Lewis was shocked to realize that music was fast becoming something available only to the affluent.
Lewis started Ethos on his credit card while sleeping on a friend’s couch. He and a dedicated group of volunteers chose the organization’s name in homage to the ancient Greek “Doctrine of Ethos,” which holds that music can change thoughts, moods and actions. Things started modestly, with only a few classes. But Ethos built up a network of donors, reached out to underserved schools, recruited passionate young music teachers and converted an abandoned North Portland building into its headquarters. Today, Ethos reaches 7,000 children per year and has a statewide reach. It offers free and reduced-rate private lessons, group classes and camps to kids ages two and up, many of whom would otherwise have no art—performing or visual—in their lives. With a budget of $1.3 million a year and seventy-one staff members, Ethos is now Oregon’s largest music school. “We believe music is a fundamental right, something that benefits not just the whole child but the whole community,” said executive director Jedidiah Chavez, who took the helm from Lewis in 2011. Lewis is still an Ethos adviser. Ethos also continues to expand its mission into rural communities. Its MuWINTER 2016 |
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sic Across Oregon program launched in 2001, with a few teachers traveling to small towns in a bus, trying to reach communities of people who hadn’t had music instruction in decades. When the bus broke down, Ethos started looking for more reliable methods of outreach. Today Music Across Oregon places music teachers in underserved rural communities across the state, including Condon, Falls City, Fossil, Kings Valley, Madras, Metolius and the Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs. Teachers are recruited through a longterm partnership with AmeriCorps—the first federal music-based AmeriCorps program in the U.S. They are typically young, fresh out of music or teaching programs, and sign on for a one-year commitment in towns with populations less than 6,000. In addition to teaching music in schools full time, these music instructors offer after-school lessons and organize performances by students and visiting musical groups. Most rural communities pay around $7,000 per year per music teacher, much less than what it would cost to hire a regular music instructor. For housing and a modest $18,000 in wages and stipends, teachers spend a year not just leading lessons then clocking out, but integrating into the community. One of the most dramatic success stories comes out of Fossil. A student who had been in and out of juvenile detention picked up guitar in a class from Music Across Oregon. His teacher encouraged him to stick with it and, years later, urged him to apply to the prestigious Berklee College of Music in Boston. He got in. In 2011, the Ethos program in Warm Springs marked the first time an AmeriCorps volunteer was placed on an Indian reservation in Oregon. “The Ethos teachers are wonderful,” said Ellen Ames, an administrator with the K through 8 Academy at the Warm Springs Indian Reservation. “They really inject themselves into the community in a positive way—hanging out at the community center and skate park, connecting with the kids and their families. They do a good job incorporating Native American culture into the lessons while 54
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exposing the kids to other music.” Last year, Warm Springs students studied American Indian drumming and performed at the annual Warm Springs Craft Fair. They also got opportunities to study other instruments, including ukulele and violin. This is characteristic of the Ethos approach. “Our teachers are encouraged to tailor instruction around the culture and interests of the communities, as well as individual kids,” said Chavez. “At Warm Springs, we might incorporate drumming. With a rural program in Fossil, we might start with bluegrass and country. In other classes, we’ll start with Beyonce or Jay-Z.”
The ancient Greek “Doctrine of Ethos” holds that music can change thoughts, moods and actions. Ethos now offers classes in everything from hip hop to classical piano and opera. Its rock band program helps kids hone not just their musicianship and performance skills, but also teaches teamwork. Members plan everything themselves—divvying up parts, choosing costumes and deciding on set lists. None of this is easy, if the number of professional bands that break up over creative differences is any indicator. “But the kids rise to the challenge,” said Chavez. “They could teach a thing or two to the grownups.” Ethos’ Music Corps artist-in-residence program, founded in 2011, provides a safe, structured place for kids in low-income urban locations to go after school. About 75 percent of the kids who take after-school Music Corps lessons live below the poverty level. “Some of these kids are not ‘at risk,’” said Chavez. “They’re no-risk—they literally have nothing to lose.”
All of the Ethos programs allow students to rent instruments at no or minimal cost. This tangible investment in the kids is a way to connect with the home environment and a statement of trust. Chavez is concerned that school arts programs have been slashed for so long that people now view music classes as “optional extras.” Study after study from schools such as Johns Hopkins University, the University of Toronto, and the Yale School of Medicine, have shown that music instruction improves early brain development and academic performance. Cada Gerrans endorses this research with an example from her middle-school math class. “Fractions came totally easy to me,” she said, “because I’ve studied time signatures.” Chavez said it’s harder to quantify another important benefit—joy. “We want to see that spark, that fire in the kids’ eyes,” he said. “When people come to our galas, they witness it. And then they want to help however they can.” Funding for the program comes largely through donations and grants. Oregon Cultural Trust is one major donor. The local blues community has been especially supportive. Longtime donor Paul Delay, who died in 2007, established an Ethos scholarship in his name, one of which funds Cada Gerrans. The Decemberists’ Colin Meloy, Bonnie Raitt and other artists also support the program. But that doesn’t mean dollars flow in without tremendous effort. The organization always needs donations—money, instruments, cases and volunteer time. Recently, an Oregon casino donated a blue carpet to replace the threadbare rugs in Ethos’ Portland performance space. Ethos wants to reach even more children throughout the state, and that won’t come cheap. In front of Ethos headquarters in North Portland is a fourteen-foot-tall copper treble clef designed jointly by founder Lewis and Art of Rain. It’s part sculpture, part downspout. When it rains, it plays “Somewhere Over the Rainbow.” “The song captures our mission very well,” said Chavez. “We are a group of idealists. We want to bring the joy and magic of music to every child.”
More than 7,000 kids across Oregon benefit from Ethos programs every year.
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Eat + Stay + Play
Oregon Guide
503.644.4400 portlandembassysuites.com McMinnville 38.7 MILES FROM STATION
866.472.8614 rstuartandco.com
PORTLAND Caffe Mingo $$, Italian 1.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.226.4646 caffemingonw.com Chennai Masala $$, Indian Hillsboro
Oregon Electric Station, Eugene
EUGENE Ax Billy Grill & Sports Bar $$$, Sports Bar 0.4 MILE FROM STATION
541.484.4011 downtownac.net Belly Taquería $$, Mexican 69 FEET FROM STATION
541.687.8226 eatbelly.com The Bier Stein $$, American, Pub 0.9 MILE FROM STATION
541.485.2437 thebierstein.com
Wild Pear $$, Cafe
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
541.654.0608 sushipureeugene.com
503.378.7515 wildpearcatering.com
Tacovore $$, Mexican
Willamette Valley Vineyards $$, Winery Turner
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
541.735.3518 tacovorepnw.com Ta Ra Rin Thai Cuisine $$, Thai 0.7 MILE FROM STATION
541.343.1230 tararinthai.com
ALBANY
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
541.686.1313 laperlapizzeria.com
541.928.1931 calapooiabrewing.com
Marché $$, French
Sybaris Bistro $$$, New American
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
541.342.3612 marcherestaurant.com
541.248.3666 sybarisbistro.com
541.345.4905 mcmenamins.com Oregon Electric Station $$$, Steakhouse, Italian, Seafood
SALEM Christos Pizzeria & Lounge $$, Pizza 1.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.371.2892 christospizzasalem.com Gamberetti’s $$, Italian
374 FEET FROM STATION
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
541.485.4444 oesrestaurant.com
503.399.7446 gamberettis.com
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9.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.588.9463 wvv.com
OREGON CITY Adelsheim Vineyard $$$, Winery Newberg
Calapooia Brewing $$, Brewpub
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
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Sushi Pure $$, Sushi
La Perla Pizzeria $$ Pizza
McMenamins High Street Brewery & Café $$, Brewpub
Guide
Eat + Stay + Play
29 MILES FROM STATION
503.538.3652 adelsheim.com ArborBrook Vineyards $$, Winery Newberg
laurelhurstmarket.com
Shift Vacation Rentals, Portland
Friendly Bike Guest House 2.1 MILES FROM STATION
Le Bouchon $$$, French
503.799.2615 friendlybikeguesthouse.com
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
Hotel Eastlund
503.248.2193 bouchon-portland.com
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.235.2100 hoteleastlund.com
Oven & Shaker $$, Pizza, Italian
Hotel Modera
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.241.1600 ovenandshaker.com
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
877.484.1084 hotelmodera.com
The Parish $$, Seafood, Southern
Inn @ Northrup Station
12 MILES FROM STATION
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.531.9500 chennaimasala.net
503.227.2421 theparishpdx.com
Decarli $$, Italian Beaverton
Ruth’s Chris Steak House $$$, Steakhouse
Jupiter Hotel
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.230.9200 jupiterhotel.com
8.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.641.3223 decarlirestaurant.com
503.224.0543 northrupstation.com
Elephant’s Delicatessen $$, Deli MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
1 MILE FROM STATION
elephantsdeli.com
503.221.1195 serratto.com
MULTIPLE LOCATIONS
gardenbarpdx.com Gloria’s Secret Café $$, Latin American Beaverton 8.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.268.2124 Imperial Restaurant $$, American 0.6 MILE FROM STATION
503.228.7222 imperialpdx.com Laurelhurst Market $$$, Steakhouse 2.6 MILES FROM STATION
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.221.4518 ruthschris.com Serratto Restaurant & Bar $$, Italian, Mediterranean, Modern European
The Garden Bar $$, Vegetarian
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
McMenamins Edgefield Troutdale 13.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.669.8610 mcmenamins.com McMenamins Grand Lodge Forest Grove
Syun Izakaya $$, Japanese Hillsboro
25.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.992.9533 mcmenamins.com
16.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.640.3131 syun-izakaya.com
EUGENE
Trader Vic’s $$, Hawaiian
Best Western New Oregon Motel
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
1.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.467.2277 tradervicspdx.com
541.683.3669 book.bestwestern.com
Wilf’s $$$, American
C’est La Vie Inn 1.5 MILES FROM STATION
226 FEET FROM STATION
503.223.0070 wilfsrestaurant.com
503.206.3097
541.302.6963 cestlavieinn.com Campbell House Inn 0.4 MILES FROM STATION
541.343.2258 campbellhouse.com
29.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.538.0959 arborbrookwines.com
Courtyard Eugene Springfield
Cana’s Feast Winery $$, Winery Carlton
4.8 MILES FROM STATION
541.726.2121 marriott.com
37.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.852.0002 canasfeastwinery.com
Excelsior Inn
Rivershore Bar & Grill $$, American, seafood
541.342.1991 excelsiorinn.com
0.9 MILES FROM STATION
Hilton
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.655.5155 rivershorerestaurant.com R. Stuart & Co. Wine Bar $$, Wine
Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081
0.2 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.2000 hilton.com Wilf’s, Portland
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Holiday Inn Express & Suites 1.9 MILES FROM STATION
541.342.1243 ihg.com Inn at the 5th 0.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.743.0869 innat5th.com Oval Door Bed & Breakfast Inn 0.7 MILES FROM STATION
Comfort Suites 2.9 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.2053 comfortsuites.com Phoenix Inn Suites 2.1 MILES FROM STATION
541.926.5696 phoenixinn.com
541.743.1000 valleyriverinn.com
ALBANY Best Western Plus Prairie Inn 2.9 MILES FROM STATION
541.928.5050 book.bestwestern.com
6.2 MILES FROM STATION
PORTLAND
0.8 MILES FROM STATION
Hampton Inn & Suites 503.362.1300 hamptoninn3.hilton.com
2 MILES FROM STATION
Lakeshore Inn Lake Oswego
The Grand Hotel
The Secret Garden
Valley River Inn
503.968.5757 grandhotelbridgeport.com
503.636.9679 thelakeshoreinn.com
503.540.7800 grandhotelsalem.com
541.484.6755 secretgardenbbinn.com
11.7 MILES FROM STATION
SALEM
541.683.3160 ovaldoor.com 1.9 MILES FROM STATION
Grand Hotel at Bridgeport Tigard
Red Lion 2.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.370.7888 redlion.com
OREGON CITY Best Western Plus Rivershore Hotel 0.9 MILES FROM STATION
503.655.1927 book.bestwestern.com
Ace Hotel 0.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.228.2277 acehotel.com The Benson 0.5 MILES FROM STATION
503.228.2000 coasthotels.com Caravan: The Tiny House Hotel 2.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.489.7645 tinyhousehotel.com Embassy Suites PortlandWashington Square Tigard
The Nines 0.7 MILE FROM STATION
877.229.9995 thenines.com Resort at the Mountain Mt. Hood Village 45.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.622.3101 theresort.com River’s Edge Hotel & Spa 4.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.802.5800 riversedgehotel.com Shift Vacation Rentals 3.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.208.2581 shiftvacationrentals.com Tierra Soul Urban Farm & Guesthouse 2.3 MILES FROM STATION
503.489.7645 tierrasoulpdx.com The Westin 0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.294.9000 westinportland.com
11.3 MILES FROM STATION
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Guide
Eat + Stay + Play
EUGENE
ALBANY
bridgeport-village.com
Bijou Metro
Albany Antique Mall
0.4 MILE FROM STATION
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
541.686.2458 bijou-cinemas.com
541.704.0109 albanyantiquemall.com
Clackamas Repertory Theater
Cascade Raptor Center
Gallery Calapooia
5.7 MILES FROM STATION
0.6 MILE FROM STATION
541.485.1320 eraptors.org
503.971.5701 gallerycalapooia.com
Eugene Cascades & Coast Travel Lane County
Oregon Coast Aquarium Newport
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
65 MILES FROM STATION
541.484.5307 eugenecascadescoast.org
541.867.3474 aquarium.org
Fifth Street Public Market
SALEM
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
541.484.0380 5stmarket.com Heritage Dry Goods 0.3 MILE FROM STATION
541.393.6710 heritagedrygoods.com Hult Center 0.2 MILE FROM STATION
541.682.5087 hultcenter.org
27 MILES FROM STATION
503.434.4180 evergreenmuseum.org Historic Elsinore Theatre 0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.375.3574 elsinoretheatre.com Salem Center
1.7 MILES FROM STATION
503.399.9676 salemcenter.com
541.346.3024 natural-history.uoregon.edu Oakway Center 1.3 MILES FROM STATION
541.485.4711 oakwaycenter.com
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
3.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.594.6047 clackamasrep.org End of the Oregon Trail 1.2 MILES FROM STATION
503.657.9336 historicoregoncity.org
PORTLAND
Use the code below to receive 15% off our Best Available Rate!
Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall 503.248.4335 portland5.com 0.5 MILE FROM STATION
503.222.5337 bellacasa.net Bonnet 503.954.2271 shop.bonnetboutique.com Boys Fort
515 SW Clay St || Portland, OR 97201
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.567.1015 boysfort.com
503.223.7457 ellingtonhandbags.com
garnishapparel.com Mabel & Zora 0.4 MILE FROM STATION
503.241.5696 mabelandzora.com
Garnish Apparel
McMenamins Crystal Ballroom
11.6 MILES FROM STATION
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
503.968.1704
503.954.2292
503.225.0047 mcmenamins.com Mercantile 0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.223.6649 mercantileportland.com Mt. Hood Meadows Ski Resort Mt. Hood 75 MILES FROM STATION
503.337.2222 skihood.com Oregon Museum of Science and Industry 1.9 MILES FROM STATION
800.955.6674 omsi.edu Oregon Zoo 3.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.226.1561 oregonzoo.org Physical Element 0.5 MILE FROM STATION Heritage Dry Goods, Eugene
58
| WINTER 2016
The courtyard features an innovative Living Wall and glass-filled fire pits. Each room is indulged with crisp designer linens, flat panel HD TVs, iPod docking stations, and Italian Tarocco bath products. Enjoy complimentary in-room WiFi and daily passes to 24 Hour Fitness!
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
Bridgeport Village Tigard
Enter Promotional Code “OnTrak”
Bella Casa
Ellington Handbags
OREGON CITY
DISCOVER PORTLAND Hotel Modera is YOUR full service boutique hotel in the heart of downtown Portland. Located on the Portland Mall between SW 5th and 6th Avenues, Hotel Modera is just steps away from the best of Portland’s shopping, restaurants, and cultural venues.
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum + Waterpark McMinnville
Museum of Natural & Cultural History
McMenamins Crystal Ballroom, Portland
503.224.5425 physicalelement.com
Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081
Pittock Mansion 2.8 MILES FROM STATION
503.823.3623 pittockmansion.org Portland Art Museum 1 MILE FROM STATION
503.553.5400 portlandartmuseum.org Rachelle M. Rustic House of Fashion
877-484-1084 ||
www.hotelmodera.com
Seaside Outlets
-On THE nOrTH OrEgOn COAST-
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
971.319.6934 rachellem.com Rice Museum of Rocks & Minerals Hillsboro 17.1 MILES FROM STATION
503.647.2418 ricenorthwestmuseum.org Twist 1.4 MILES FROM STATION
503.224.0334 twistonline.com US Outdoor Store
aPril-december
MONdAY-SATURdAY: 10 A.M.-8 P.M. SUNdAY: 10 A.M.-6 P.M.
JANUARY-MARCH SUNdAY-THURSdAY: 10 A.M.-6 P.M. FRidAY-SATURdAY: 10 A.M.-8 P.M.
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
503.223.5937 usoutdoor.com Washington Square Tigard 8.6 MILES FROM STATION
503.639.8860 shopwashingtonsquare.com
ontrakmag.com
book warehouse • bruce’s candy kitchen • carter’s • christoPher & banks • claire’s • daisy may’s sandwich shoP • dress barn & dress barn women • eddie bauer • famous footwear outlet • gnc • kitchen collection • l’eggs hanes bali Playtex exPress • nike factory store • osh kosh b’gosh • Pendleton • rack room shoes • rue 21 • seaside shiPPing center • the wine & beer haus • tokyo teriyaki • TOYS “R” US • Van heusen • ZumieZ
www.seasideoutlets.com
Hwy 101 & 12th Ave., Seaside, Oregon • 503.717.1603 Free coupon book special events
Eat + Stay + Play
Washington Guide Pacific Grill, Tacoma
westwardseattle.com
EDMONDS The Herbfarm $$$$, Modern European Woodinville 19.7 MILES FROM STATION
425.485.5300 theherbfarm.com The Maltby Café $$, American, Breakfast, Coffee Snohomish
Farrar’s Bistro $$, American
Fish Tale Brew Pub $$, Brewpub
6.7 MILES FROM STATION
7.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.571.7005 farrarsbistro.com
360.943.6480 fishbrewing.com
McMenamins East Vancouver $$, Brewpub
The Mark $$, Italian
9.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.254.3950 mcmenamins.com
KELSO/LONGVIEW Ashtown Brewing Company $$, Brewery 2 MILES FROM STATION
360.353.5286 ashtownbrewing.com The Office 842 $$, Coffee, Cocktails, Tapas 1.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.442.4647 theoffice842.com
CENTRALIA McMenamins Olympic Club Pub $$, Brewpub 0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.736.5164 mcmenamins.com 60
| WINTER 2016
8.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.754.4414 themarkolympia.com
TACOMA Asado $$$, Argentine 4.8 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.7770 asadotacoma.com Odd Otter Brewery $, Brewery
206.402.4588 thechefinthehat.com
Assaggio Ristorante $$$, Italian
Revel $$, Asian Fusion, Korean
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.441.1399 assaggioseattle.com Copperworks Distilling $$, Distilleries 0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.504.7604 copperworksdistilling.com Frolik Kitchen & Cocktails $$, American, Breakfast 1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.971.8015 frolik.motifseattle.com
253.209.7064 oddotterbrewing.com Pacific Grill $$, American, Seafood
425.440.0880 johnhowiesteak.com
10 MILES FROM STATION
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
253.627.3535 pacificgrilltacoma.com
TUKWILA Miyabi Sushi $$, Japanese
1.1 MILES FROM STATION
SEATTLE
John Howie Steak $$$$, American, Steakhouse Bellevue
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
Loula Kitchen & Bar $$, French, Breakfast
10.7 MILES FROM STATION
425.456.0010 seastarrestaurant.com TanakaSan $$, Asian Fusion 1.8 MILES FROM STATION
206.812.8412 tanakasanseattle.com
4 MILES FROM STATION
Westward $$, Mediterranean, Breakfast, American
206.397.4940 delaurenti.com
206.552.8215
Little Water Cantina $$, Mexican
12.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.753.9123 swantowninn.com
206.248.8200 coasthotels.com
TACOMA
Greenlake Guesthouse
KELSO/LONGVIEW
Hotel Murano
Monticello Hotel
253.238.8000 hotelmuranotacoma.com
206.729.8700 greenlakeguesthouse.com
Red Lion at the Quay 1.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.694.8341 redlion.com
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
360.807.1212 centraliasquare.com McMenamins - Olympic Club Hotel & Theater 0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.736.5164 mcmenamins.com
OLYMPIA/LACEY
360.629.5253 stanwoodgrill.com
The Governor Hotel
MOUNT VERNON
360.943.9349 coasthotels.com
Olde Towne Grainery Tea Room & Galleria $$, British 0.2 MILE FROM STATION
Skagit River Brewery $$, Brewpub
Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar $$$, American, Seafood Bellevue
Coast Gateway
7.3 MILES FROM STATION
Centralia Square Hotel
Salumi Artisan Cured Meats $$ Meat Shops 206.621.8772 salumicuredmeats.com
Swantown Inn & Spa
360.254.3100 heathmanlodge.com
Anthony’s Restaurant $$, Seafood 1726 W. Marine View Drive
206.547.2040 revelseattle.com
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
206.248.8200 coasthotels.com
6.6 MILES FROM STATION
CENTRALIA
360.419.9090 facebook.com/oldetowne grainery
5.9 MILES FROM STATION
12.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.427.7711 little-creek.com
EVERETT
289 FEET FROM STATION
206.575.6815 miyabisushi.com
Heathman Lodge
360.425.9900 themonticello.net
Stanwood Grill $$, American 1.4 MILES FROM STATION
Coast Bellevue
20.6 MILES FROM STATION
425.483.3123 maltbycafe.com
STANWOOD
OLYMPIA/LACEY
Little Creek Casino Resort
2.1 MILES FROM STATION
425.252.3333 anthonys.com
VANCOUVER
VANCOUVER
14.5 MILES FROM STATION
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
Guide
Eat + Stay + Play
7.9 MILES FROM STATION
Red Lion Hotel 8 MILES FROM STATION
360.943.4000 redlion.com
7.1 MILES FROM STATION
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
Silver Cloud Inn - Tacoma Waterfront 3.9 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.1300 silvercloud.com
Hotel 1000 0.7 MILE FROM STATION
206.957.1000 hotel1000seattle.com Hotel Andra 1.4 MILES FROM STATION
TUKWILA
206.448.8600 hotelandra.com
Cedarbrook Lodge
Hyatt Regency Bellevue
4.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.901.9268 cedarbrooklodge.com
425.462.1234 bellevue.hyatt.com
Springhill Suites
The Inn at El Gaucho
1.8 MILES FROM STATION
425.226.4100 marriott.com
1.6 MILES FROM STATION
206.728.1133 elgaucho.com Inn at the Market
SEATTLE
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
Alexis Hotel 0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.448.0631 innatthemarket.com
206.624.4844 alexishotel.com
The Maxwell Hotel
Belltown Inn
206.286.0629 themaxwellhotel.com
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
1.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.529.3700 belltown-inn.com
McMenamins - Olympic Club Hotel, Centralia
9.9 MILES FROM STATION
The Moore Hotel 1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.448.4851 moorehotel.com
cedarbluffcottage.com
The Paramount Hotel
1.4 MILES FROM STATION
1.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.292.9500 paramounthotelseattle.com Seattle Sheraton 1.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.621.9000 sheratonseattle.com Sorrento Hotel 1.1 MILES FROM STATION
206.622.6400 hotelsorrento.com
EDMONDS Best Western Plus Edmonds Harbor Inn
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
360.336.2884
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
BELLINGHAM
425.771.5021 book.bestwestern.com
Ambo Ethiopian Cuisine $$, Ethiopian
EVERETT
3.4 MILES FROM STATION
Holiday Inn Downtown Everett
amboethiopiancuisine. wordpress.com
0.4 MILE FROM STATION
Leaf & Ladle $$, Soup, Sandwiches
425.339.2000 ihg.com
3.1 MILES FROM STATION
Inn at Port Gardner
360.319.9718 facebook.com/leafandladle
2.4 MILES FROM STATION
425.252.6779 innatportgardner.com
Hotel Stanwood 360.629.2888 stanwoodhotelsaloon.com
MOUNT VERNON Best Western Plus Skagit Valley Inn 1.9 MILES FROM STATION
360.428.5678 book.bestwestern.com Tulip Inn 1.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.428.5969 tulipinn.net
BELLINGHAM Chrysalis Inn & Spa 0.8 MILE FROM STATION
360.756.1005 thechrysalisinn.com Fairhaven Village Inn 0.3 MILE FROM STATION
360.733.1311 fairhavenvillageinn.com Hotel Bellwether 4 MILES FROM STATION
360.392.3100 hotelbellwether.com
STANWOOD Cedar Bluff Cottage
5.8 MILES FROM STATION Heathman Lodge, Vancouver
ontrakmag.com
ontrakmag.com
5.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.445.3333
Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081
WINTER 2016 |
61
Guide
Eat + Stay + Play
VANCOUVER
OLYMPIA/LACEY
Clark County Historical Museum
Capitol Tours
1 MILE FROM STATION
360.993.5679 cchmuseum.org
7.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.902.8880 des.wa.gov
Kiggins Theatre
Little Creek Casino Resort Shelton
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
20.6 MILES FROM STATION
360.816.0352 kigginstheatre.net
360.427.7711 little-creek.com
Visit Vancouver USA
Rhythm & Rye
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
7.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.816.6230 visitvancouverusa.com
360.705.0760
KELSO/LONGVIEW Cowlitz County Tourism Visit Mount St. Helens 360.577.3137 visitmtsthelens.com
Washington State History Museum 1.8 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.3500 washingtonhistory.org
5.7 MILES FROM STATION
SEATTLE
Seattle Art Museum
Future of Flight Aviation Center & Boeing Tour
2.5 MILES FROM STATION
206.753.4940 chihulygardenandglass.com
CENTRALIA
Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium
206.770.2700 empmuseum.org
7.4 MILES FROM STATION
Museum of History and Industry
Experience Music Project Museum 2 MILES FROM STATION
2.7 MILES FROM STATION
253.272.4258 tacomaartmuseum.org
0.5 MILE FROM STATION
EVERETT
253.284.4750 museumofglass.org
360.623.1103 centraliafoxtheatre.com
Visit Edmonds
206.386.4300 seattleaquarium.org
0.9 MILE FROM STATION
0.2 MILE FROM STATION
425.275.9595 edmondscenterforthearts.com
10.7 MILES FROM STATION
Chihuly Garden & Glass
1.2 MILES FROM STATION
0.6 MILE FROM STATION
1.877.775.6935 visitedmonds.com
360.414.9451 ktpub.com
Centralia Fox Theatre
Edmonds Center for the Arts
1 MILE FROM STATION
0.7 MILE FROM STATION
Tacoma Art Museum
Pike Place Market 206.682.7453 pikeplacemarket.org
425.336.4809 cascadiaartmuseum.org
Seattle Aquarium
0.1 MILE FROM STATION
360.736.3327 centraliafactoryoutlet.com
206.654.3100 seattleartmuseum.org
0.3 MILE FROM STATION
Bellevue Arts Museum Bellevue 425.519.0770 bellevuearts.org
253.591.5337 pdza.org
206.281.9694 nwoc.com 2 MILES FROM STATION
Museum of Glass
2.8 MILES FROM STATION
3.7 MILES FROM STATION
Olympic Sculpture Park
Kelso Theater Pub
Centralia Factory Outlets
Cascadia Art Museum
Museum of Flight
LeMay—America’s Car Museum 253.779.8490 americascarmuseum.org
EDMONDS
Northwest Outdoor Center
TUKWILA
206.764.5720 museumofflight.org
TACOMA
stgpresents.org
206.324.1126 mohai.org Neptune Theatre 4.2 MILES FROM STATION
206.682.1414
0.8 MILE FROM STATION
206.654.3100 seattleartmuseum.org Seattle Space Needle 2 MILES FROM STATION
206.905.2100 spaceneedle.com Stevens Pass Skykomish 85 MILES FROM STATION
206.812.4510 stevenspass.com Woodland Park Zoo 5.3 MILES FROM STATION
206.548.2500 zoo.org
8 MILES FROM STATION
425.467.4777 futureofflight.org XFINITY Arena at Everett 0.5 MILE FROM STATION
425.322.2600 xfinityarenaeverett.com
STANWOOD Stanwood Cinemas 1.5 MILES FROM STATION
360.629.0514 farawayentertainment.com
MOUNT VERNON Downtown Mount Vernon 360.336.3801 mountvernondowntown.org
BELLINGHAM Bellingham Railway Museum 3.1 MILES FROM STATION
360.393.7540 bellinghamrailway museum.org The Green Frog 2.8 MILES FROM STATION
360.961.1438 acoustictavern.com Mount Baker Theatre 3.2 MILES FROM STATION
360.734.6080 mountbakertheatre.com Mt. Baker Ski Area 52 MILES FROM STATION
360.734.6771 mtbaker.us
Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium, Tacoma
62
| WINTER 2016
Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081
ontrakmag.com
Eat + Stay + Play
Vancouver Guide
Octopus’ Garden $$$, Japanese, Sushi 4.5 KM FROM STATION
604.734.8971 octopusgardensada.com Opus Bar $$, Cocktails, Small Plates, Breakfast 2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.642.6787 opushotel.com Salt Tasting Room $$, Wine, Tapas, Small Plates 1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.633.1912 salttastingroom.com Sal y Limon $, Mexican 2.4 KM FROM STATION
Jules $$, French
Matchstick Coffee Roasters $, Cafe
1.4 KM FROM STATION
1.2 KM FROM STATION
1.7 KM FROM STATION
650 METERS FROM STATION
604.687.6880 wildebeest.ca
askforluigi.com
604.559.7585 cuchillo.ca
604.669.0033 julesbistro.ca
604.336.0213 matchstickcoffee.com
Yaletown Brewing Co. $$, Brewpub
The Diamond $$, Mexican
The Keefer Bar $$$, Cocktails, Asian Small Plates
Novo Pizzeria & Wine Bar $$, Italian, Wine
2.1 KM FROM STATION
Boulevard Kitchen & Oyster Bar $$$, Seafood, Steakhouse
1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.568.8272 di6mond.com Fable Kitchen $$, Canadian
2.6 KM FROM STATION
4.4 KM FROM STATION
boulevardvancouver.ca
604.732.1322 fablekitchen.ca
Burdock & Co. $$, French, Tapas 1.5 KM FROM STATION
burdockandco.com Chambar $$$, Belgian, Breakfast 1.4 KM FROM STATION
chambar.com Cinara $$$, Modern European 1.7 KM FROM STATION
cinara.ca Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca $$$$, Mediterranean, Italian 2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7466 cioppinosyaletown.com
64
1.5 KM FROM STATION
Cuchillo $$, Latin American
604.688.0876 bao-bei.ca
| WINTER 2016
The Fat Badger $$, British 3.4 KM FROM STATION
604.336.5577 fatbadger.ca The Flying Pig Gastown $$, Canadian 1.7 KM FROM STATION
604.559.7968 theflyingpigvan.com Forty Ninth Parallel Café & Lucky’s Doughnuts $, Coffee, Donuts 1.8 KM FROM STATION
604.872.4901 49thparallelroasters.com luckysdoughnuts.com
4 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2739 mjg.ca
604.736.2220 novopizzeria.com
Zeitoon Restaurant $$, Middle Eastern 4.8 KM FROM STATION
Kintaro Ramen $, Asian
The Oakwood Canadian Bistro $$, Gastropub, Canadian
3.8 KM FROM STATION
5.6 KM FROM STATION
604.682.7568
604.558.1965 theoakwood.ca
850 METERS FROM STATION
604.688.1961 thekeeferbar.com
Kirin $$, Seafood, Dim Sum Various locations kirinrestaurants.com
2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.678.8899 aubergevancouver.com
604.632.3000 hotellesoleil.com
604.684.9024 kingstonhotelvancouver.com
Barclay House
Executive Hotel Vintage Park
The Landis Hotel & Suites
3.5 KM FROM STATION
604.605.1351 barclayhouse.com Bee & Thistle Guest House 3.3 KM FROM STATION
604.669.0715 beeandthistle.ca The Burrard 2.9 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2331 theburrard.com Coast Coal Harbour Hotel 2.7 KM FROM STATION
Coast Plaza Hotel & Suites
Ask for Luigi $$, Italian
850 METERS FROM STATION
The Kingston Hotel
2.2 KM FROM STATION
Savary Island Pie Company $$, Bakery, Coffee
Wildebeest $$$, Gastropub, Canadian
Bao Bei Chinese Brasserie $$$, Chinese
Executive Hotel LeSoleil
2.6 KM FROM STATION
604.697.0202 coasthotels.com
604.926.4021 savaryislandpiecompany.com
49th Parallel Cafe, Vancouver
Auberge Vancouver Hotel
604.677.4247 salylimon.ca
10.6 KM FROM STATION
Guide
Eat + Stay + Play
4.2 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7711 coasthotels.com Coast Vancouver Airport Hotel 9.3 KM FROM STATION
604.263.1555 coasthotels.com English Bay Inn 5 KM FROM STATION
604.683.8002 englishbayinn.com
2.9 KM FROM STATION
1.800.570.EXEC executivehotels.net Fairmont Chateau Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION
604.938.8000 fairmont.com Georgian Court Hotel 1.5 KM FROM STATION
604.682.5555 georgiancourthotel vancouver.com Granville House B&B 6.3 KM FROM STATION
604.733.2963 granvillebb.com
3 KM FROM STATION
604.681.3555 landissuitesvancouver.com L’Hermitage Hotel 2 KM FROM STATION
778.327.4100 lhermitagevancouver.com The Listel Hotel 3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.684.7092 thelistelhotel.com Loden Hotel 3.4 KM FROM STATION
877.225.6336 theloden.com Moda Hotel
Granville Island Hotel 4.4 KM FROM STATION
604.683.7373 granvilleislandhotel.com Hotel at the Waldorf 3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.253.7141 hotelatthewaldorf.ca Hotel Blue Horizon 2.9 KM FROM STATION
604.688.1411 bluehorizonhotel.com
2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.683.4251 modahotel.ca
Fairmont Chateau Whistler
OPUS Vancouver 2.2 KM FROM STATION
604.642.6787 opushotel.com
Patricia Hotel
Pan Pacific Vancouver
604.255.4301 patriciahotel.ca
2.8 KM FROM STATION
604.662.8111 panpacific.com
1.2 KM FROM STATION
Pinnacle Hotel Harbourfront 3.1 KM FROM STATION
604.689.9211 pinnacleharbourfronthotel.com
The Riviera on Robson Suites Hotel 3.2 KM FROM STATION
604.685.1301 rivieravancouver.com Rosewood Hotel Georgia 2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.682.5566 rosewoodhotels.com St. Clair Hotel - Hostel
Fairmont Chateau Whistler
1.8 KM FROM STATION
604.648.3713 stclairvancouver.com
604.899.0700 zeitoonrestaurant.ca
Summit Lodge & Spa Whistler Whistler 132 KM FROM STATION
604.932.2778 summitlodge.com
The Fat Badger, Vancouver
The Sylvia Hotel
L’Abattoir $$$, French, Canadian
4.3 KM FROM STATION
604.681.9321 sylviahotel.com
1.4 KM FROM STATION
604.568.1701 labattoir.ca
Victorian Hotel 1.7 KM FROM STATION
The Liberty Distillery $$, Distillery, Cocktails
604.681.6369 victorianhotel.ca
3 KM FROM STATION
Wedgewood Hotel & Spa
604.558.1998 thelibertydistillery.com
2.4 KM FROM STATION
604.689.7777 wedgewoodhotel.com
Marutama Ramen $$, Asian 3.6 KM FROM STATION
604.688.8837 marutamaramen.com ontrakmag.com
ontrakmag.com
Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081
WINTER 2016 |
65
Guide
Eat + Stay + Play
Bau-Xi Gallery 4.3 KM FROM STREET
604.733.7011 bau-xi.com BC Place Stadium 1.3 KM FROM STATION
604.669.2300 bcplacestadium.com Beaty Biodiversity Museum 14.2 KM FROM STATION
604.827.4955 beatymuseum.ubc.ca Bloedel Floral Conservatory 5.9 KM FROM STATION
604.873.7000 vancouver.ca Capilano Suspension Bridge Park 10.7 KM FROM STATION
604.985.7474 capbridge.com Commodore Ballroom 2.7 KM FROM STATION
604.739.4550 commodoreballroom.com Contemporary Art Gallery 2.4 KM FROM STATION
604.681.2700 contempoaryartgallery.ca Craigdarroch Castle Victoria 115 KM FROM STATION
250.592.5323 thecastle.ca Cypress Mountain 20.1 KM FROM STATION
604.926.5612 cypressmountain.com
Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden 1.2 KM FROM STATION
604.662.3207 vancouverchinesegarden.com Granville Island 4.1 KM FROM STATION
604.666.6655 granvilleisland.com
Ian Tan Gallery 4 KM FROM STATION
604.738.1077 iantangallery.com
Travel by train and experience the Pacific Northwest's stunning views like never before. Relax in spacious seats and enjoy delicious local food and beverages with friends and family as you visit such cities as Seattle, Portland, Eugene and Vancouver, B.C.
Kids Market 4.3 KM FROM STATION
4.2 KM FROM STATION
604.684.0076 toycompany.ca
604.736.5444 kurbatoffgallery.com
Greater Vancouver Zoo
Museum of Anthropology
53.3 KM FROM STATION
13 KM FROM STATION
604.856.6825 gvzoo.com
604.822.5087 moa.ubc.ca
Grotto Spa at Tigh-Na-Mara Parksville
Museum of Vancouver
111 KM FROM STATION
250.248.1838 grottospa.com
4.8 KM FROM STATION
604.736.4431 museumofvancouver.ca The Orpheum 2.8 KM FROM STATION
Grouse Mountain 14.4 FROM STATION
604.980.9311 grousemountain.com Gulf of Georgia Cannery Richmond 21 KM FROM STATION
604.664.9009 gulfofgeorgiacannery.org H.R. MacMillan Space Museum 4.9 KM FROM STATION
604.665.3050 vancouver.ca Peak 2 Peak Gondola Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION
1.800.944.7853 whistlerblackcomb.com
Science World at TELUS World of Science, Vancouver
Pirate Adventures 4.1 KM FROM STATION
604.754.7535 pirateadventures.ca
604.738.2855 spacecentre.ca
Queen Elizabeth Theatre
Harbour Cruises & Events
604.665.3050 vancouver.ca
1.6 KM FROM STATION
3.7 KM FROM STATION
Peak 2 Peak Gondola, Whistler
®
Kurbatoff Gallery
4.3 KM FROM STATION
604.688.7246
On Amtrak Cascades, Seniors save 15% and Kids ages 2-12 travel for 50% off the adult fare.
boatcruises.com
604.689.8447 kidsmarket.ca
Granville Island Toy Company
River Rock Casino Resort Richmond 12.2 KM FROM STATION
877.473.2818 riverrock.com Robson Street 2.8 KM FROM STATION
604.669.8132 robsonstreet.ca Rockwood Adventures 7.4 KM FROM STATION
604.913.1621 rockwoodadventures.com
604.681.6728 vancouver.ca Vancouver Art Gallery 2.3 KM FROM STATION
604.662.4700 vanartgallery.bc.ca Vancouver Aquarium 6.3 KM FROM STATION
604.659.3400 vanaqua.org Vancouver Maritime Museum
2 KM FROM STATION
4.8 KM FROM STATION
604.899.7400 rogersarena.com
604.257.8300 vancouvermaritime museum.com
400 METERS FROM STATION
604.443.7440 scienceworld.ca Squamish Lil’Wat Cultural Centre Whistler 1.866.441.7522 124 KM FROM STATION
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Stanley Park 5 KM FROM STATION
Rogers Arena
Science World at TELUS World of Science
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Take the train, take the whole family!
Call 1859 Media to get listed in our guides. 541.550.7081
Book now at AmtrakCascades.com
Vancouver Symphony Orchestra 2.1 KM FROM STATION
604.876.3434 vancouversymphony.ca Whistler Blackcomb Whistler 124 KM FROM STATION
1.800.766.0449 whistlerblackcomb.com
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Fares, routes and schedules are subject to change without notice. Travelers 62 years of age and over are eligible to receive a 15% discount off the best available adult rail fare on most Amtrak trains. Children ages 2 through 12 receive a 50% discount on most Amtrak rail fares, all year long, when accompanied by at least one person paying a regular adult rail fare. Up to two children's discounts are permitted in conjunction with each adult traveler. Discounts cannot be combined. Other restrictions may apply. On cross-border services operated jointly by Amtrak and VIA Rail Canada, a 10% Senior discount is applicable to travelers aged 60 and over. Amtrak and Amtrak Cascades are registered trademarks of the National Railroad Passenger Corporation.
EXP
SURE
Photo Contest
I wasn’t going on a trip, but I live nearby and was just wandering around town taking photos. The Puyallup Station is for our local commuter line, and I have taken similar train photos before, but never in the daytime. My goal was to capture the speed of the train as it came through. photo by Chris Sawtelle Send us your rail travel photo at ontrakmag.com/exposure for a chance to have your photo published.
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4 Reads for the Rail
AMTRAK CASCADES STOPS
ev in Lig ht
Winter Surfing page 33
Last Bus to Wisdom by Ivan Doig This coming-of-age story is centered on Donal Cameron, growing up in Montana’s Two Medicine Country in the 1950s. Eleven-year-old Donal lives with his grandmother, but when she goes in for a big surgery she sends him on a Greyhound to Manitowoc, Wisconsin to stay with a tyrannical great-aunt and the 70
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aunt’s good-natured husband, Herman. It’s not long before Aunt Kate sends Donal back to Montana, and Uncle Herman decides to fly the coop and go with him. Their adventure west is complete with Doig’s usual ensemble of characters and a few rollicking mishaps. Last Bus to Wisdom is a charming and memorable finale to the late Ivan Doig’s literary legacy.
Crossing the Plains with Bruno by Annick Smith In the summer of 2003, Annick Smith and her 95-pound chocolate labrador, Bruno, embark on a two-week road trip across the Great Plains. Traveling from rural Montana
Mount Vernon Stanwood Everett
un
d Lo
we
Edmonds Seattle
Tukwila
E
Storm Watching page 42 This is your life, Harriet Chance! by Jonathan Evison Two years after her husband Bernard dies, 79-year-old Harriet Chance discovers Bernard won a trip for two on an Alaskan cruise. Uneasy about escaping her mundane routine but hoping the trip would be a much-needed boost, Harriet boards the cruise ship alone and sets sail. Greeted by a series of brutal revelations, Harriet’s trip is one of acceptance, retrospect and forgiveness. Inspired by the 1950s show “This is Your Life,” Evison’s narration pinballs among pivotal events in Harriet’s life, unfolding sixty years of false assumptions.
Bellingham
K
dm
to Chicago’s north side and eventually Lake Michigan, Smith and Bruno’s journey tells a story of companionship, aging, romance and loss. This memoir weaves together a tale of travel, history, personal meditation and the present reality of a dog.
SALEM
Vancouver, BC
BY ANNA BIRD
SELECTED BY THE Pacific Northwest Booksellers Association as four of the best of the Northwest in 2015, these books tell the stories of four distinct journeys. Follow these characters as they confront their past, set out on the open road or train to be a professional ballet dancer. Kick back in your seat and witness these characters transform with each turn of a page.
PORTLAND
Tacoma Olympia/Lacey Centralia
Kelso/Longview
Raising the Barre by Lauren Kessler When Lauren Kessler was a young girl, she dreamt of becoming a great ballerina. As an award-winning author in her adult life, Kessler was weary of libraries and archives, so she decided to become an immersive journalist and revisit her childhood dream. Raising the Barre recalls her experience joining the Eugene Ballet Company to perform in The Nutcracker. More than that, it’s a story of taking risks and facing fears, and blithely ignoring how you’re “supposed” to act at a certain age.
EUGENE
Vancouver, WA Portland Oregon City
Salem Albany
Eugene
Ballerina Suzanne Haag page 25
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Talia Galvin
SEATTLE
See whAt CouLd Hap PEn O N yO ur nExt
TACOMA
Major improvements for Amtrak Cascades The Washington State Department of Transportation is investing nearly $800 million in federal grant funds to deliver critical rail infrastructure improvements that will expand travel choices for Amtrak Cascades passengers by 2017. Ten of the 20 projects are already completed, including: Advanced wayside signal systems create more efficient and safe train movements by upgrading control points, sidings, and turnouts in the 300-mile long Washington corridor A second 1,300-foot track in Vancouver eases congestion Improvements at the Port of Vancouver relieves congestion with a new rail trench that separates passenger and rail traffic
OLYMPIA
A new connection between D to M Streets in Tacoma adds 1.4 miles of new track and allows trains to stop at the new Tacoma Dome Station A new Tukwila Station replaces a temporary structure with a multimodal hub Improvements to King Street Station in Seattle include significant seismic retrofits for safety and restores the lobby to its majestic grandeur New receiving/departure tracks in Everett eases congestion Slide management projects stabilize slopes at four vulnerable landslide sites near Mukilteo and Everett to limit rail service disruptions (2 others were completed in 2013-14) A siding extension in Mount Vernon provides more room for trains to pass each other 72
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A new customs facility in Blaine/ Swift creates a second siding for customs inspections Over the next 18 months you’ll see the completion of the remaining projects, including: A brand-new Tacoma Amtrak Cascades station and a bypass between Tacoma and Nisqually that will result in shorter travel time between Seattle and Portland Eight new Siemens Charger locomotives will be delivered in fall 2016 to improve reliability, be more fuel efficient, and position us for faster train speeds in the future
Tra In A dv En TUre.
M Ee t a w or K dE ad Lin E
gRab a wIndOw sEat
G Ra b a na P EN jo Y tH e Vi eW
HOisT a piNt FInaL ly FIg uRe Out yO ur ba Nd nA me
King Street Station track improvements in Seattle to reconfigure connections and increase capacity for all trains operating at the station
POrtLa nD
Two corridor reliability upgrade projects adding state-of-the-art technology and equipment along the entire Washington corridor
BOok noW aT aMtrAk.Com/seEwhAthAppEns
a S lO w As
.60 $ 19 To EUg eN e
Three projects in the Kelso/ Kalama/Longview region to improve rail capacity and reduce congestion A bypass at the Vancouver Rail Yard to separate passenger and freight traffic and reduce congestion More information on all of the projects can be found on our website at www.wsdot.wa.gov/rail Prices reflect one-way fares. Valid online only and only on Amtrak Cascades. Valid for discounted one-way Coach fares; no upgrades permitted. Other restrictions apply. Amtrak and Amtrak Cascades are service marks of the National Railroad Passenger Corporation.
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Absolutely The Best Hospitality In The Pacific Northwest!
Parting Shot Kevin Madore
Take exit 260. Just 4 minutes west of I-5.
ACTION
Slots • Table Games • Live Entertainment 24/7 Action
LUXURY
Award Winning Hotel • Beautiful Views Indoor Pool
DINING
5 Diverse Dining Options Multiple Award-Winning Steak House
RELAXATION
TAKEN ALONG THE SUMPTER VALLEY RAILWAY IN McEWEN, OREGON.
Massages • Facials • Manicures • Pedicures
Sumpter Valley Railway’s American Locomotive Company train pulls freight east toward Baker City with the Elkhorn mountains in the distance.
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