COUPS DE COEUR

Longer-term mitigation requires rethinking vineyard establishment, re-evaluating grape variety choices within regions, and in some cases, relocating viticulture to cooler sites at higher latitudes or altitudes. Bordeaux, a conservative region steeped in history and tradition, reacted to the threat of climate change by adding once unthinkable international varieties such as Touriga Nacional to their approved variety regulations. In Alsace, 12th-generation winery Domaine Muré responded to the warming climate with an experimental planting of Syrah – a seismic shift for this white grape and Pinot Noirfocused region. In Chile, driven by a decade of drought, viticulture is moving south from existing regions to find reliable sources of water.

Adaption and mitigation are part of the story, but climate action is vital for the future of the wine industry. While sustainable, proactive viticulture and winemaking practices are increasingly common and impactful, the industry’s largest carbon footprint contributor is glass packaging. Does every wine need a glass bottle? No. There are more sustainable options for wines that aren’t matured in a cellar for a year or more between packaging and consumption. And if we are honest with ourselves, only a small percentage of the world’s wine production needs that. Along with packaging, distribution is also under the microscope. Shipping wine in bulk and packaging in its intended market has been sustainable success story for the industry. Drink local campaigns have strong merit and should continue to gain momentum. Wine growler, anyone? The wine industry has always been good at telling stories. Climate change mitigation and action is now a part of that story, by necessity. Will consumers enjoy the evolving wine styles and climate-driven innovations in the chapters that follow?

THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES BY OUR MASTERS OF WINE

EVERYDAY DRINKING

LORCA FANTASÍA SYRAH, VALLE DE UCO, MENDOZA, 2022, LOT 3950, P11 EL BARRIO CARIGNAN, MAULE VALLEY, NATURAL WINE FROM CHILE, 2022, LOT 3999, P37

CELLARING POTENTIAL

L'ASSEMBLAGE GRAND VIN, CASABLANCA VALLEY/MAIPO VALLEY, 2020, LOT 3965, P19 RIESLING GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG, AOC ALSACE, 2021, LOT 4015, P49