CANADIAN CORNER

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3631

$ 41

$ 246

These “three witches” must be the good kind based on this fresh and fruity white blend from Karlo Estates. The experience opens with aromas of lychee, white grapefruit and lemon which transition into flavours of lychee, melon and white grapefruit and taper off in a lemony finish. I recommend tucking a bottle in your picnic basket to accompany your ploughman’s lunch. Drink Now.–lw

13%

Lychee, white grapefruit, lemon

Lychee, melon, white grapefruit, lemon, [3.00]

Ploughman’s lunch with pickled-vegetable relish and fruit

$ 60 $ 60

This rye-forward whisky is loaded with personality. The nose is packed with orange zest, vanilla, toasted coconut, mince pie and crème caramel aromas. The initial sip opens with layers of grilled orange, apricot, dates and caramel before it transitions into a long spicy finish. Refined and polished, Beach’s signature smooth mouthfeel makes it easy to enjoy Rye 51 straight; however, its versatile style makes it perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned.– lw

45%

Orange zest, toasted coconut, mince pie

Finish Allspice

Grilled orange, apricot, date, caramel

Perfect for classic cocktails such as the Old Fashioned

JOIN THE HARRIS BEACH CASK CLUB TO TASTE YOUR WHISKY EVERY YEAR AS IT AGES! LOT 3690

3678

Chardonnay

The 2021 Pearl Morissette Coup de Cœur captures the essence of the Niagara region in the glass. It is a notably aromatic example of Chardonnay made from vines grown in the red clay soils of the 24-hectare Redfoot vineyard. The property, located in the Lincoln Lakeshore viticultural area, is heavily influenced by the moderating effect of Lake Ontario. Here the mild climate and the long growing season allow the grapes time to slowly ripen while they develop maximum flavour. Elegant from the first aromas through to the extended finish, this wine offers an expressive bouquet of honeydew melon, peach, apple and lemon scents that are reinforced on the palate. Elevage in 10% new oak demi-muid and 90% foudre, in addition to eight months spent on lees, adds depth and to the wine. Fresh acidity perfectly supports the fruit creating a seamless balance. This wine is immediately delightful but also has the capacity to evolve in cellar. The best part? Opimian Members now have exclusive access to this small-lot Canadian gem. It is not even available at the winery! 2023-2028–lw

11.5%

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon

Honeydew melon, peach, apple, lemon, [2.00]

Salmon cakes with lemon aioli and a fresh greens salad

$ 50 $ 300

Syrah or Shiraz? What’s the difference? Fruit led versions of this variety, such as many from Australia, are usually called Shiraz while the more savory bottlings, typical of those of the Northern Rhone, tend to be referred to as Syrah. In Ontario, both grape names are used, customarily indicating to which style camp the wine belongs. Meldville’s expression, from the outstanding 2020 vintage, sings “Syrah” with a meaty, peppery profile complementing its dark berry fruit. A backbone of mouthwatering acidity makes this an excellent food wine. Think pepper crusted sirloin. Less than 4 barrels produced. 2023-2032–lw

13%

Black pepper, blackberry, cured meat

Blueberry, black currant, blackberry, pepper

Pepper-crusted sirloin

We first met proprietors Doug Barzelay and Nathan Todd on the recommendation of Michael Palij MW who tasted the Foxtrot wines at the annual Canada House tasting in London, England. We were fascinated by their passion for Pinot Noir and the wine lived up to its stellar reputation. We are thrilled to be able to offer a limited parcel of the 2020 Foxly Opimian Special Reserve Pinot Noir to our Members and look forward to sharing more wines from the portfolio as they become available. A swirl of this delicately hued wine releases a bouquet of cherry, red currant and plum wrapped in the warmth of toasty oak. The palate is notably concentrated with the red fruit profile evolving to flavours of strawberry, cranberry and plum. The barrel influence carries through with hints of cinnamon and clove adding dimension. Light tannins and fresh acidity frame the core as the wine tapers off into a satisfying finish. 2023–2027–lw

13%

Cherry, red currant, plum, toasted oak

Strawberry, cranberry, plum, cinnamon, clove

Wild mushroom risotto

DID

YOU KNOW?

Patience Rewarded: Maturing Wine

By Igor Ryjenkov MW

You spied an older vintage on your host’s table or the wine list, and now you are intrigued. Will it be a sensory delight of mature aromas and textures or a disappointment of oxidized, tired, vinegary liquid? Brushing up on a few things about maturing wine would significantly improve your chances of reaping the rewards of your foresight.

Start from the top: most wines are not meant to be aged. So what wines can mature? In general, a wine of any colour has to have the key structural elements to foretell its longevity: sometimes sweetness, but always the acidity, dry extract and/or tannin, alcohol, the fruit intensity and persistence, all in right proportions, in balance. A track record is hugely helpful. There are many New World contenders in play today. But the European classics with centuries of a head-start still hold the mantle of the outcome predictability when cellared – top Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhône, Champagne, Vintage Port, Mosel and Rheingau to name just a few.

What are the ideal cellaring conditions?

In short, a steady temperature between 8°C to 14°C, no vibrations, no or low light and air movement, and elevated relative humidity to keep the cork moist. Keeping the bottles on their side also works to that end.

How does the wine change with time in the cellar?

Broadly speaking, there are two trajectories - many will age, that is slowly shed some of their initial overall structure and fruit, turning into an older version of themselves, still a different and more nuanced experience. But some will actually develop - initial balance evolving into harmony with the nature of fruit completely changing from its starting point. All reds will turn lighter and browner in colour and shed some tannin, hence the sediment in the bottle, and all whites would instead darken and may precipitate some tartaric acid as wine crystals. But it is the top red Burgundy that will morph from identifiable structure components with youthful cherry and beetroot into a seamless underbrush- and truffleperfumed amalgam on the palate. Axiomatically, the wines from the grapes’ marginal climates are more likely to take the “development” pathway. It is helpful to know a given area’s vintages strengths, but making use of drinking windows in the tasting notes is always a very useful shortcut.

How do you treat mature wines properly to avoid spoiling the years of patience by fumbling the very last step?

The whites usually do not need decanting, although if you notice sediment, treat them then as you would a red - make sure to let the sediment settle, and decant the wine, erring on the safe side – don’t try to squeeze the very last drops off the sediment. The lighter reds, e.g. Burgundy do not always throw heavy sediment. However, it still might be worth decanting anything older than 10 years, leaving a little in the bottle to allow the wine to show its best.

Do you have to mature the age-worthy wines?

It’s partly a cultural decision - for example, historically the French have enjoyed even the Classed growths young. But mostly, it’s a matter of personal preference. In addition, many cellar-worthy wines today, be it a Chablis, St.-Émilion or even Port, do not have to be aged and are far more approachable and enjoyable early in their life than decades ago, thanks to climate change and advancements in the vineyard and the cellar. However, if you have never experienced those wines fully matured, you are missing out on something special. To help you enjoy the journey as well as track a wine’s progress, I always suggest getting at least three bottles, opening one right away, and the others - near the book ends of its drinking window.

While it all may sound like a series of chores, it really does not have to be. Maturing wine may not be for everyone, but there is a lot of fun and sensory payoff to be had if you find the prospect intriguing and are willing to apply a few useful bits of information to greatly improve your odds of success.