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Coming from one of the name-designated Villages, Laudun, here we have a wine that is the recent expression of the terroir and the vintage, as well as a wine with an extra year on it from the supplier’s cellars. In the warm Mediterranean climate of the Southern Rhône, you might assume that the vintage variation is hardly a factor – but you might be surprised to find otherwise.

$ 37 $ 222

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Grenache, Syrah

Mostly Grenache and Syrah. Still youthful, a deep purple red. It opens with a mineral, chalky note, followed by floral, red fruit and dark chocolate elements. On the palate, it is ripe with low but adequate acidity, dry, has a medium extract and medium finetextured tannins and medium body. Has a medium length and fruit intensity with red fruit, chicory root, flowers and chocolate flavours to a medium finish. 2023-2027.– ir

Same blend of Grenache and Syrah. A deep purple red. A little shy at first, but then opens up with chocolate, cassis and coffee/chicory root aromatics. A medium acidity here, medium-plus extract and medium, fine, medium-textured tannins and medium to full body. Nice length on the palate and lovely fruit intensity. Closed a bit but promising – dark fruit, chocolate, creamy, hint floral and rooty/earthy with a medium finish. A bit broader and larger-framed than its sibling, yet with a touch more freshness. 2023-2027.– ir

14.5%

Chalk, floral, red fruit, chocolate

Red fruit, chicory root, floral, chocolate

Beef goulash

14.5%

Quiet, chocolate, cassis, hint chicory root

Chocolate, creamy, hint floral and rooty.

Mild crab curry

4041 DOMAINE DES 3 LYS, TRADITION, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2021

Grenache, Syrah, Carignan

$ 33 $ 198

This youthful, unoaked Côtes du Rhône wows on the nose with its pretty floral, crushed dark fruit, and subtle baking-spice aromas. The palate is fresher and more discreet, with tangy dark fruit flavours, hints of nutmeg, and a medium-weight structure. Finishes dry with firm, chalky tannins. 2023-2026– jb

13.5%

Violet, blackberry, plum, nutmeg

Cassis, blackberry, dark cherry, nutmeg

Mushroom flatbread with caramelized onions

Domaine Des 3 Lys

Established in 2015, the Domaine des 3 Lys may be a newcomer, but its owners are far from novices. This talented band of Southern Rhône winemakers head up Château Saint-Bénezet and Château Bellefontaine. The 30-hectare Domaine des 3 Lys estate is situated in Rochegude. The region’s rich mosaic of vineyard soils and warm Mediterranean climate allow Grenache and Syrah to thrive here.

4042

DOMAINE DES 3 LYS, TRUFFES NOIRES, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE, 2021

Grenache, Syrah

$ 36

$ 216

The award-winning “Truffes Noires” cuvée hails from vineyards with–iron-rich clay soils, bringing fine structure and depth. This Grenache-Syrah blend has a lovely floral, dark fruit perfume laced with spice, dark chocolate, and peppery hints. The palate is ample and plush in texture, with bright, tangy acidity giving fine balance. Good short-term aging potential. 2023-2028– jb

13.5%

Violet, baked blackberry, plum, white pepper

Tangy dark fruit, dark chocolate, nutmeg

Asian slow-braised beef

4043 CHÂTEAU MONTPLAISIR CASE3 BOTTLES EACH: VALRÉAS AND VINSOBRES

$ 54 $ 324

This duo from Château Montplaisir offers classic expressions of two northerly, higher altitude vineyards of the southern Rhône Valley. These fresh, fruity, well-crafted reds are drinking well now and will hold well for several years to come.

Ch Teau Montplaisir

Château Montplaisir is a 17th-century manor house overlooking the plain of Valréas. The property and adjoining vineyards were acquired by winemaker Benoît Chaignon in 2014. Benoît quickly set about converting the estate to organic viticulture. Perched at 250-500 metres altitude, the vines of Château Montplaisir span the Côtes du Rhône Villages Appellation of Valréas and cru of Vinsobres.

CHÂTEAU MONTPLAISIR CUVÉE MONTPLAISIR SAFRES, AOP CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES VALRÉAS, 2020

Grenache, Syrah, Carignan

Initially discreet, with aromas of blue and black fruit developing overtime. The palate is tangy and rounded with a broad structure and ripe, moderately firm tannins. A pleasant, well-balanced southern Rhône blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan. Should keep well for a few years. Serve slightly chilled. 2023-2027–jb

CHÂTEAU MONTPLAISIR EXPRESSIONS, AOP CRU DES CÔTES DU RHÔNE VINSOBRES, 2019

Syrah, Grenache

This Syrah-dominant Grenache blend is aged in a mix of tanks and large oak casks to preserve freshness while subtly oxygenating the wine to soften tannins. The result is an attractive wine with well-defined black fruit, licorice, and wild herbal aromas. The palate is fullbodied and velvety with bold tannins that frame the finish nicely. 2023-2027–jb

15%

Blueberry, black cherry, garrigue, baking spice

Black cherry, milk chocolate, spice

Mediterranean-seasoned roasted meat

Cassis, plum, licorice, garrigue

15%

Plum, licorice, spice, savoury undertones

Overnight slow-roasted pork shoulder with fennel

A ripe, rich blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre with heady aromas of red berries, dark fruits, peppers and dried flowers. The palate is dense and velvety, with a concentrated core of ripe fruit and sweet milk chocolate. Dried herbal tones, firm tannins and brisk acidity offset the generous palate. 2024-2030– jb

15%

Baked raspberry, plum, cassis, black pepper

Black cherry, plum, milk chocolate, garrigue

Roast quineafowl

The 2021 vintage yields a brisker, more lifted style of Côtes du Rhône Villages here. The ripeness of dark fruit on the nose and palate is offset by fresh, green herbal nuances. The palate is vibrant and juicy with moderate concentration and taut, muscular tannins. Serve slightly chilled to temper the warming finish.

14.5%

Baked blackberry, blueberry, plum, green herbs

Cassis, plum, dark chocolate, spice

Pan-seared sirloin with red-wine butter

$ 44 $ 264

The 2021 Rasteau is powerful and taut at present, with big grippy tannins that should soften reasonably well over the medium term. Intense aromas of ripe red and dark fruit gain in complexity with aeration as herbal and green olive hints emerge, transferring to the equally flavourful palate. Decant up to an hour before serving. 2024-2028– jb

$ 44 $ 264

The 2020 Cairanne is a testament to balance in a warm vintage. The nose is very ripe with its baked, almost jammy red and dark fruits underscored by black olive tapenade. However, the palate shows remarkable freshness with tangy dark fruit flavours and classic herbal notes. Full-bodied and fleshy with firm tannins. Drinking well but would show best with a further year’s cellaring. 2024-2030–jb

Domaine Martin

Four generations of Martins have tended this southern Rhône estate. At its inception, Julien Martin managed a small holding of five hectares. Over a century later, the family’s vineyards span 62 hectares. The estate is in the Côtes du Rhône Villages, Plan de Dieu area. Once a banditinfested scrubland, this vast plain between Gigondas and Châteauneuf-duPape is now a prized terroir.

42 $ 252

Clairette, Roussane and Marsanne blend, a regional wine, the broadest in terms of provenance of the three. Medium yellow. It leads with oily/fresh dough notes, with floral and star fruit elements. The palate is extra dry, with medium acidity, medium texture and moreish extract, and medium to full body. Nice length and the fruit comes across with the flavours of fresh dough/lees, star fruit, with mineral and floral tones. 2023-2025– ir

13%

Oily/fresh lees/dough, hint floral, nasturtium, starfruit

Dough, starfruit, minerally, hint floral, [2.00]

Vietnamese rice-paper rolls with shrimp, lettuce and pork

$ 49 $ 147

A white-named village, not unique but not very usual either. A more typical make up – a blend of Clairette, Roussane, Grenache Blanc. Medium yellow. On the nose, chocolate, Brazil nut oiliness and very ripe mango notes. The palate is dry, with medium acidity, medium extract and texture, medium to full body and notes of chocolate, nuts, ripe pear and melon. 2023-2027– ir

Les Grandes Serres

The company was created by Camille Serres in 1968 initially to promote the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Over time, it has expanded its focus on making and marketing all the key southern Rhône Appellations. Young winemaker Romain Leroy discovered his passion for wine during a trip to the Stellenbosch region of South Africa and subsequently started studying viticulture, eventually becoming a `flying winemaker' in France and Argentina. Now settled in Southern Rhône, he specializes in Meridional Crus.

14.5%

Chocolate, Brazil nut, oily, very ripe mango

Chocolate, nutty, ripe pear, melon, [2.00]

Pan-fried pickerel with pistachio-butter sauce

The Châteauneuf – red or white – is usually a blend of several, or all, allowed varieties, but there is no blend-proportion requirements; if one is inclined, it can be made from a single grape. Case in point – we have a solo Bourboulenc, a grape rarely seen alone. A medium yellow hue. It leads with pickled apple, floral notes, hay and yellow plum. With a medium acidity and dry on the palate, it has a medium extract and body, a soft texture and carries the notes of thistle milk, pickled apple, yellow plum and hay. 2023-2025– ir

13%

Pickled apple, floral, hay, yellow plum

Thistle milk, pickled apple, yellow plum, hay, [2.00]

Tuna tataki

$ 96 $ 288

In 2019, the rainy winter and early spring ensured sufficient water reserves to nourish vines over the hot, dry summer. This is a stellar vintage for the southern Rhône and the Genestière Châteauneufdu-Pape 2019 shows it well. This is a full-throttle red, with a plush, broad mouthfeel. Ultra-ripe red fruit, sweet spice, and wild herbal notes echo across the nose and palate. Bold, yet balanced with fresh acidity to offset the warming finish. 2023-2035– jb

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