Rioja – Onwards and Upwards

By Giles Cooke, MW

My first professional visits to Rioja were in 1994 & 1995, coinciding with two vintages that were subsequently highly lauded, and still capable of delivering delicious wines today. I vividly recall stepping off the plane at Bilbao airport and being greeted by that unmistakably Spanish waft of rich, musky tobacco. Those visits were the catalyst for a career-long love-affair with a region that many call the most under-valued fine wine region in the world.

Much has changed since then, including the ubiquitous presence of tobacco, and in Rioja too, things are changing for the better. This beautiful region which spans 120 kilometers West to East, defined by the Sierra Cantabria to the North and by the Sierra de la Demanda to the South, has a winemaking history that dates back to the bronze ages. Divided by the mighty Rio Ebro, it possesses a unique light which, when the vines are resplendent in their autumnal hues, provides some of the most breathtaking views in the world of wine.

Its modern history has been built upon a quality system which relies on time in barrel rather than quality or provenance of fruit sourcing. This time-honoured system has, without a doubt, produced many world-class wines from revered producers steeped in history – but it has not necessarily highlighted the incredible diversity that this region could offer.

While consumers were trained to buy solely on age and time in oak, the need or in fact the ability, to say anything more detailed on fruit quality or sourcing was restricted. With very few single estate wines and most producers relying on a mention of zone ( Rioja Alta, Alavesa or Oriental) at most, there was little opportunity to provide more detailed information, as one might find in Burgundy for instance.

That has all changed now, with the Consejo Regulador, finally giving in to calls for much greater detail to be allowed on labels. Now, we are allowed to mention the name of a single vineyard or the village (pueblo) from which the fruit was sourced. Indeed, some of the most exciting wines in Rioja are now coming from producers who are eschewing Rioja’s traditional quality system and concentrating more on beauty of individual sites.

Of course, provenance doesn’t always guarantee quality, and there will continue to be world-class wines made from the traditional producers, but with this new exploration of Rioja’s diverse terroirs, it is not unreasonable to think that the best wines from Rioja are still to be made.

Bodegas Marqu S De Reinosa

The vineyards of Bodegas Marqués de Reinosa sit in a natural amphitheatre created by the Sierra de Yerga and Peña Isasa. The winery is named for D. Joaquín Garralda Oñate, Count of Autol and Marquis of Reinosa. The town of Autol, where the winery is located, was established by Oñate and is recognized as the first in the country to export wines outside of Spain.

As the wines of Rioja scale the quality ladder, the minimum time that they are required to age also increases. Red wines labelled Crianza may be released in their third year, if they have spent at least 12 months in barrel. Reserva reds must mature for a minimum of three years including at least 12 months in barrel and six months in bottle. The highest quality classification of Rioja is Gran Reserva: red wines in this category must be matured for a minimum of five years including at least two years in barrel and two years in bottle.

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MARQUÉS DE REINOSA CASE2 BOTTLES EACH: CRIANZA, RESERVA AND GRAN RESERVA

$ 47 $ 282

This mixed case from Bodegas Marqués de Reinosa provides an excellent opportunity to experience and compare Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva wines from Rioja.

MARQUÉS DE REINOSA CRIANZA, DOCA. RIOJA, 2019

MARQUÉS DE REINOSA RESERVA, DOCA. RIOJA, 2018

MARQUÉS DE REINOSA GRAN RESERVA, DOCA. RIOJA, 2014

Tempranillo

Stacked with aroma and flavour, this is an excellent example of the great value Rioja can deliver. The bouquet is a melody of caramelized brown sugar, black cherry, blackcurrant, baked plum and cedar. Ripe black fruit leads on the palate with notes of plum, black cherry and black raspberry offset by a touch of nutmeg. This Crianza has a firm structure, great intensity and a pleasurable finish. 2023-2028–lw

14%

Brown sugar, black cherry, blackcurrant, plum, cedar

Plum, black cherry, black raspberry, nutmeg

Medium-hot chili con carne with chorizo

Tempranillo

A distinguished wine scented with notes of plum, blackberry, blackcurrant, nutmeg and brown sugar. The lush fruit core is matched by luxurious oak with flavours of plum, blackberry, nutmeg, clove, cedar and herb. Delicious today and will continue to gain complexity as it develops over the next decade. 2023-2033– lw

14%

Plum, blackberry black currant, nutmeg, brown sugar

Plum, blackberry, nutmeg, clove, cedar, herb

Caldereta de chivo lamb stew

Tempranillo, Garnacha

A classic blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha that is showing an appealing balance of evolution and youthful fruit. The bouquet expresses aromas of plum, cranberry, raspberry, lavender, leather and oak. A dance between fresh and dried fruit character takes place on the palate with flavours of plum, strawberry and raspberry supported by resolved tannin and rich oak. 2023-2033– lw

14%

Plum, cranberry, raspberry, lavender, leather, oak

Plum, strawberry, raspberry, oak

Cocido madrileño garbanzo bean and meat stew

REINOSA