5 minute read

The Crus of Beaujolais –The Highest Quality Wines the Region has to Offer!

When wine lovers think of the wines of Beaujolais, light and fruity wines come to mind. The wines from the Beaujolais Crus are perfect for those who want the best of both worlds from this region –fruity, yet with terroir-specific distinctiveness and a nod to Burgundian winemaking methods. It is fascinating to witness how the humble Gamay grape can be expressed in many ways in these Crus!

Beaujolais has two main parts – the north and the south. The mountainous northern part houses the Crus where the soils are predominantly granite and schist. These well-drained, low-nutrient soils grow Gamay grapes that are highly concentrated compared to the rest of the appellations in Beaujolais. The vines need to dig deep in these 300-million-year-old soils to find sources of water, creating incredible intensity and ageing potential that is apparent in the final product in bottle. While there are times when a

Advertisement

Beaujolais AOC or a Beaujolais Villages AOC is delightful with a weekday meal, the wines from the Beaujolais Crus are worthy to uncork for celebrations.

The ten Crus each produce distinctive wines. From north to south: Saint-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly. The AOC laws are stringent for Beaujolais Crus. They dictate that the vine density must be at least 6000 vines/hectare, 100% hand harvesting to select only unblemished grapes and growing yields of 56 hl/ha (the lowest of all the appellations in Beaujolais!). Not only that, but the wines are also made similarly to the reds in Burgundy at a fraction of the price. Who doesn’t love a great price-to-quality ratio?

It begs the question now – what to try? A great mixed case is the (Lot 4240, p.15) Château de Durette Cru Case that allows you to try the strawberry, lingenberry, cinnamon and violet notes of Juliénas and the full-bodied, powerful “King of Beaujolais”, Moulin-à-Vent. Another great option is the (Lot 4241, p.16) Château de Durette Cru Case with tart cherry, cassis, and white peach notes of Régnié and Chénas’ great aging potential with delicate floral notes of rose and peony. And don’t forget about the (Lot 4242, p.18) Château de Durette Cru Case with Morgon that has Pinot Noir-like earthy notes and Côte de Brouilly with its silky tannins, lively acidity, and fresh cranberry aromas.

This Cellar, Opimian has provided Members with the opportunity to get a wine from each of these ten Crus to advance your cellar. In addition to the Mixed Cases, consider ordering Chiroubles, Fleurie, Brouilly and Saint-Amour, all available in these pages. This is a great time to invest in the full collection!

Côtes de Brouilly and Morgon are both cru appellations, equally well regarded for their complex aromas and firmly structured palates. This mixed case is a great opportunity to compare two excellent terroirs.

4242

Ch Teau

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE CRU CASE: 3 BOTTLES EACH: MORGON AND CÔTE DE BROUILLY 14%

Morgon is the largest of Beaujolais’ cru appellations. Its wines are considered to be among the longest lived, most powerful of the region. This is definitely a muscular wine, with a dense, tannic framework. However, its powerful build is softened by a velvety texture and concentrated core of ripe dark fruit, giving this serious red wine lots of charm! 2024-2034 –jb

CHÂTEAU DE DURETTE, LES FOURNELLES, AOP CÔTE DE BROUILLY, 2022

Gamay

Gamay 14%

Red currant, plum, pepper, sandalwood

Dark cherry, plum, licorice, dark chocolate

Crispy roast chicken with pan jus

Candied cherry, blackberry, violet, spice

Dark cherry, blackberry, dried thyme

Grilled fish with masala seasoning

The Côte de Brouilly vineyards lie on the Mount Brouilly slopes, on a bedrock of locally prized Brouilly blue stone soils so named for their bluish tint. The “Les Fournelles” cuvée is typical of the area, with its ripe fruit aromas, lively acidity, and firm structure. Chalky mineral hints mark the finish. 2023-2027 –jb

Gamay

750ml

The Saint-Amour cru is named after the village of the same name, sitting in the heart of the vineyards. This is the most northerly of the Beaujolais cru and produces both supple, fruity reds and more robust offerings, depending on the site. This 2022 cuvée is spiced and floral with lots of freshness, medium body, and a lithe, elegant character. 2023-2028 –jb

14%

Domaine Sancy

Thomas Boyer took over his family’s Juliénas estate in 2014. This northern Beaujolais cru stretches across the southern and south-eastern slopes of the Mont du Bessay. The vines thrive in this sun-baked environment on a diverse patchwork of granitic and sedimentary soils. Boyer vinifies his 9-hectares of Juliénas, SaintAmour and Chénas according to traditional methods passed down through the generations.

Domaine De La Revol

Cherry, kirsch, nutmeg, violet

Dark berries, cherry, red currant, baking spice

Grilled skirt steak fajitas with fresh salsa

Gamay

$ 35 $ 210

With its higher altitudes, varied soils, and southerly exposure, Juliénas produces a wide range of wines, the best of which have great structure and aging potential. This is a great example, with an intense, fruit-forward nose and concentrated flavours. The palate is fresh and moderately firm, with finegrained tannins. Should keep well over the moderate term.

2023-2030 –jb

Chardonnay

$ 31 $ 186

Domaine de La Revol Chardonnay hails from the southern reaches of Beaujolais. It is crafted in an easy-drinking, unoaked style with subtle citrus, apple and earthy aromatics. The palate is crisp, light and dry, with tart fruity flavours. Can be enjoyed as an aperitif or paired with a light starter. 2023-2025 –jb

14%

Dark plum, cherry, almond essence, violet

Dark plum, cherry, almond, herbal

Coq au vin caramelized root vegetables

12.5%

Orange blossom, apple, lemon, fresh hay

Apple, lemon, earthy, [2.00]

As an aperitif

Gamay

$ 34

$ 204

One of the lighter Beaujolais cru, Chiroubles offers soft tannins and approachable, fruity flavours. The Lionel Despres Cuvée AnneMarie et Armand Desmures 2021 is true to its terroir. Tangy red berries mingle with earthy, herbal hints on the nose. The palate is taut and silky with zingy acidity that carries through the finish. Serve chilled. 2023-2027–jb

13%

Strawberry, raspberry, tea leaves

Tangy red fruit, tea leaves, herbal hints

Roast veal forestiere with caramelized onions

Gamay

750ml

The Brouilly appellation lies at the foot of the Mont Brouilly, home to the Côte de Brouilly appellation. This lower lying area produces an earlier-drinking style of Beaujolais with plenty of fruit and finesse. Domaine Dit Barron features a mix of tart and riper red fruit with underlying peppery spice and a taut, lively palate. 2023-2027–jb

750ml

Gamay

14%

Red currant, cherry, pepper, floral

Red currant, rhubarb, subtly savoury

Haute-Savoie Reblochon with crostini and currant jelly

Fleurie wines are often described as the most floral and heady of the Beaujolais cru wines. Whether this is simply due to the appellation’s pretty name or a true reflection of its terroir is debatable. Domaine Montangeron’s 2022 Fleurie is certainly perfumed, giving way to deeper savoury and herbal notes on the palate. Weighty and concentrated with great lift and pleasing chalky tannins. 2023-2029 –jb

14%

Cassis, dark cherry, licorice, floral

Baked dark fruit, cocoa, herbal

Slow-roasted leg of lamb with rosemary and garlic

This article is from: