BORDEAUX RIGHT BANK

The right bank is more low-key and experimental than the old money arena of Bordeaux city and the rive gauche. Merlot is its trump card although Cabernet Franc often plays a pivotal role in adding grip and structure to the wines. Geographically, its appellations lie on the eastern flank of the Dordogne river. The first is Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux, approximately 50km to the city’s east. Its wines are ripe, generous, and best drunk young. Directly to the north of Castillon is Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. Unique among the Libournais appellations, it permits white grape varieties. The whites are immediate, while the best reds can last a decade. Adjacent, Saint-Émilion is the largest and most universally recognised of the right bank appellations, famous both for its Roman heritage and for the great estates situated on its central limestone plateau. Both Merlot and Cabernet Franc shine here. To its northwest, the pocket of Pomerol is as illustrious as it is discreet. A bonus for Merlot lovers is LalandeDe-Pomerol, north of Pomerol across the Barbanne River. The soils here are cooler, but the wines can still be excellent and often trade at favourable prices. The Dordogne snakes around for another 20 or so kilometres before it comes to Bourg. Cabernet Sauvignon is of greater importance here; Merlot, however, is still the principal grape variety. The vineyards are influenced by their exposure to the Atlantic, and the fragrant wines are enjoyable in their youth. Blaye is Bourg’s bigger brother and its wines share a similar profile.

Vignobles Arbo

Bernadette Arbo has worked tirelessly to rekindle the family estate established by her greatgreat grandfather before his untimely passing during the Great War. Together with her husband, Joseph, she has expanded and developed the estate since 1998 which now comprises 51 hectares across both Castillon and Francs – all of which is farmed sustainably. Bernadette has a particular fondness for Malbec, bottling production of her onehectare parcel as a varietal Côtes de Bordeaux.

Castillon C Tes De Bordeaux

$ 37 $ 222

14.5%

Cooked plum, raspberry, cassis, cedar

Now in impressive harmony, this opens with cooked plum, black cherry, cassis, cedar, menthol and incense. It continues to convince on the palate, with a concentrated core of red and black fruit ably supported by ripe, firm tannins and refreshing acidity. 2018 was a good vintage, but this exceeds expectations.

2023-2026 – mp

$ 34 $ 204

14.5%

Blackcurrant, liquorice, Byng cherry, undergrowth

Ripe blackcurrant, tinned strawberries, cedar, undergrowth

Warm wild mushroom and cheese dip

Castillon, a cooler, hilly extension of Saint-Émillion, is well-placed to adjust to increasingly warmer vintages and merits a detour as a source of good quality, good value Bordeaux. The nose here is well defined, offering notes of blackcurrant, liquorice, and Byng cherry. Where there are vegetal notes they are attractive and offer a sense of place. The palate reveals a pleasant dryness (cedar) that is well balanced by the reappearance of ripe blackcurrant, lifted further by tinned strawberries. 2023-2028 – mp

$ 37 $ 222

Big and bold. Aromas of ripe black fruit, camphor, stewed plum and cedar. This has plenty of body and structure with complex fruit and oakderived flavours (cassis, black cherry, oriental spice, cedar). This is a rather delicious glass of Malbec – a grape that struggles to reach full maturity in its homeland with the ease it seems to adopt in Argentina. 2025-2030 – mp

Ripe blackcurrant, camphor, stewed plum, cedar

14%

Cassis, black cherry, oriental spice, cedar

Five spice-marinated flank steak