SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU

Clos Cantenac

For many centuries St-Émilion went unnoticed as a wine-producing area. During the 19th century, increasing trade with northern Europe, allied with organizational competence, and promotional flair, gave the region momentum. While the Médoc’s pedigree is anchored in the illustrious (but outdated) classification of 1855, St-Émilion’s latest classification dates from 2022. It is accurate and revised every ten years, despite the political headache that this brings. Much of the appellation is planted with Merlot, a safe bet on cool, clay-based soils over limestone, although Cabernet Franc performs better in gravelly areas. St-Émilion is known for the very high calibre of its wines, which are generally more supple and approachable than those of the left bank.

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Clos Cantenac is a small, six-hectare Grand Cru property situated in western St-Émilion, near the port town of Libourne. Owner Martin Krajewski has invested considerably in recent years including a new chai and laboratory in 2015. In 2017 his daughter, Charlotte, joined the team as chief winemaker after stints at Elephant Hill and Trinity Hill in New Zealand. Critics have united in hailing Clos Cantenac as a rising star.

Attractive and complex nose even at this stage. Ripe red fruit including redcurrant, cherry, tinned strawberry together with rose petal, hawthorn, and elderflower. The medium-bodied palate is hugely convincing, showing a concentration of red apple, raspberry, cherry, and strawberry that glides effortlessly across the tongue. Wellbalanced by the acidity. 2023-2024 – mp

13%

Redcurrant, red cherry, rose petal, hawthorn

Red apple, raspberry, cherry, strawberry, [3.00]

Assorted pâtés, terrines and cured meats

Merlot

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Perfumed, elegant aromas (the clue is in the name) including strawberry, redcurrant, wild rose, and hawthorn carry over onto the palate. This is inviting and it doesn’t lack for concentration, either. Really shows what can be done in Bordeaux if one wants to make a decent rosé: perfect weight and intensity of fruit together with linear poise and a mouthwatering acidity. 2023-2024– mp

12.5%

Strawberry, redcurrant, wild rose, hawthorn

Strawberry, redcurrant, wild rose, hawthorn, [3.00]

Salade Niçoise

This is still developing but promises much. Complex aromas of crushed blackberry, blueberry, liquorice, sawdust, and iodine. On the full-bodied palate, the acidity is barely noticeable - quite an achievement in 2021! Instead, there is a wealth lush black cherry and plum. The tannins are a high point, robust and with a wonderfully dusty character. Although the oak is just a little exposed at the moment, it will integrate with time. All the flavours sustain and move towards a very impressive coda. Bravo! 2028-2035 –mp

13.5%

Crushed blackberry, blueberry, sawdust, iodine

Black cherry, black plum, liquorice, vanilla

Cassoulet with saucisse de Toulouse

A sculptured, angular nose of blackcurrant, sweet spice, and graphite. The palate offers layers of aromatic fruit – plum, blackcurrant – plus Christmas cake, vanilla, and liquorice. The seamless integration of oak and tannin leave no doubt that this elegant and succulent wine will soon be ready to drink, however, the winemaking skill is such that it will happily spend time in the cellar. 2026-2030 – mp

13.5%

Blackcurrant, sweet spice, graphite, pencil shavings

Plum, blackcurrant, Christmas cake, liquorice

Blackened salmon with blackberry glaze

Remyx Vodka

France

Spirits

France has built a steady reputation of late for vodkas, though this limited-edition collection rather splendidly gate-crashes the party. This is a premium product, with the wheat grown in Champagne-Ardennes and the wash distilled in Cognac. However, the highlights are, undoubtedly, the hedonistic labels exclusively designed by two talented young artists.

700ml

A devilishly aromatic nose is filled with grape, vanilla, rosewater, and Parma violets. The palate, fresh and pungent, offers a similar Muscat-like arrangement, with the addition of a hint of lime leaf. The finish is punchy, never losing sight of its aromatic base. – mp

Grape, vanilla, rosewater, Parma violets

Grape, vanilla, rosewater, lime leaf

Finish Punchy and grapey

This is a delicate affair with subtle aromas of flour, oatmeal, husk and a hint of aniseed slowly making their mark on a slender nose. A breath of sweetness marks the sleek, soft palate, which has a pure, grain-led feel. The delicate mouthfeel has considerable potential as a base for classic cocktails.– mp

Flour, oatmeal, husk, hint of aniseed

Flour, oatmeal, husk, sweet anise

Finish Grain-led and delicate

Whisky

G. ROZELIEURES

If God had drawn up a shortlist of beverage matches made in heaven, Whisky from Vosne-Romanée would surely be a candidate! Maybe this is old news, given that the Scots source a great deal of their barley from northern France. In today’s centralised world, very few distilleries can claim ownership of production right through from field to shop floor. It takes a particular mindset, which Rozelieures masters with aplomb.

A gentle spirit that resembles a favourite Speyside pair of slippers, this ex-sherry cask is deep amber in colour, revealing a beguiling nose of popcorn, sweet spice, dried honey, apple, and pear. The barrel time has not dimmed, but rather fine-tuned its zeal, lending a palate of rich orchard fruit, apple blossom, honey and grilled nuts. The finish is long and utterly composed.– mp

40%

Popcorn, sweet spice, dried honey, apple

Orchard fruits, apple blossom, honey, grilled nuts

Full and rapturous

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SINGLE

A golden-hued elixir of coastal air, light peat smoke, lemon, gingerbread, and rye bread. The palate dances enticingly, as if sprung from some far off island campfire, with smoked fish, raw meat, cinder toffee, and popcorn trading moves in harmonious choreography. Both powerful and graceful, it leads to a long, captivating finish.– mp

Coastal air, light peat smoke, lemon, gingerbread

Smoked fish, raw meat, cinder toffee, popcorn

Finish Long and graceful

An accomplished bourbon-cask expression. The medium-amber nose is full of popcorn, oatmeal, allspice, barley sugar, and rye bread. On the palate the alcohol and oak are kept seamlessly in check by a driving, lingering array of malt, cereal, pear, apple, dried honey and linseed. The complex finish is impressive.– mp

Popcorn, oatmeal, allspice, barely sugar, rye bread

Malt, cereal, pear, apple, dried honey and linseed

Finish Powerful and long

Taste these whiskies blind, and they are a dead ringer for Scotch. There is no question the climates are different – there is nothing maritime about Burgundy – so it is a question of great technical expertise. That said, these expressions are free-flowing and unique, and in any competition they would steal a share of the limelight.

An adventurous, medium-amber expression aged in ex-wine barrels from France’s South West. The nose brings oatmeal, barley, and honey mingled with savoury dill and olive. The spartan palate reveals toasted notes, a whiff of peat smoke, and barley sugar. Medium, savoury notes on the finish.– mp

Oatmeal, honey, dill, olive

Toasted notes, a whiff of peat smoke, barley sugar, malt

Finish Savoury, with subtle peat

Pomerol

If St. Émilion has surprisingly little lineage for its magnitude, Pomerol has less. Although certain estates –Trotanoy, Pétrus – were well-known by the late 19th Century, most of the region remained off radar until the late 1950s. Moreover, and despite its superstar reputation for Merlot, it was only at this point that Cabernet Franc was usurped as the number one grape variety. In the 19th C Pomerol was still an area of white wine production. Less is more in Pomerol. There is no classification system, and few glitzy châteaux. Wines like Le Pin, with its minute quantities, have attracted interest from critics and collectors alike. The best wines, if one is lucky enough to get the opportunity to drink them, combine grace and power in equal measure.

Château Séraphine is the second Bordelais acquisition of Englishman, Martin Krajewski. His daughter, Charlotte, is the winemaker here and at Clos Cantenac. She employs a minimalistic and 'hands off' approach, to both acclaim and effect.