COLLECTOR’S CORNER

RARE WINES TO ENHANCE YOUR CELLAR

- JANE ANSON, DECANTER

Utterly captivating from the first aroma. Discreet bundles of blackcurrant, red plum, spice and oak on the nose. It is undeniably young, but already one detects a multitude of flavours: blackcurrant, bramble, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, cocoa, and olive. The dense fruit core is wrapped in muscular tannins. This is a megaton of full-bodied red Bordeaux that just leaps from the glass. Give it time and this will flourish. 2030-2038– mp

13.5%

Blackcurrant, red plum, spice, oak

Blackcurrant, bramble, vanilla, cedar, sandalwood, cocoa, olive

Chinese-style duck pancakes with hoisin

Filigree aromatics of peonies, violets, and andalwood. The palate offers cassis and plum pudding astride cedar and vanilla, remaining light on its toes. This is elegant claret with satisfying dusty tannins. It has the necessary concentration, grip, and length for inclusion at the top table. 2026-2030– mp

13.5%

Peonies, violets, sandalwood, cassis

Cassis, plum pudding, cedar, vanilla

Portabello mushroom burger with porcini and garlic butter

Despite miniscule yields and an enduring reputation for excellence, the last 25 years have not been kind to Sauternes. Changing consumer tastes have led to a decline in interest for sweet wines and hence dwindling returns for the estates whose wines are the product of a painstaking harvest and capricious weather. Many now eschew the Place de Bordeaux in favour of a network of private customers. It’s a great pity –these are some of the world’s most age worthy and compelling sweet wines and are increasingly looking like exceptional value.

4286

CHÂTEAU HAUT BERGERON SAUTERNES VERTICAL TASTING CASE: 1 BOTTLE

EACH: 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016

$ 65 $ 260

While 2013 was a washout for dry Bordeaux, Sauternes was dealt a winning hand. This is fresh, racy, and assured. Aromas of orange blossom and nectarine lead to a taut palate with classic notes of apricot, honey, crème pâtissière and mango. Linear and refined. 2023-2029 – mp

2014’s damp opening gambit did not auger well and yet a long extended summer allowed for successive pickings of tropical styled, botrytis-affected fruit. This is one of those welcome surprises from an on/off vintage. Drink now, and enjoy its maturity – mp

14%

Orange blossom, nectarine, honey, toast

Apricot, honey, crème pâtissière, mango, [140.00]

Foie gras toasts and Roquefort

14%

Honey, caramel, butterscotch, mango

Honey, caramel, butterscotch, mango, [148.00]

Pan-seared foie gras with port wine and fig sauce

CHÂTEAU

2015

Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc

One for those who like their Sauternes with oomph. A vibrant nose of pineapple, marmalade and toast presages a palate of tremendous power sporting notes of marmalade, orange blossom, coconut, coffee, vanilla and whipping cream. This would be lost without acidity, but it delivers, bouncing to a lingering finish of honey and tropical fruits. 2024-2030–mp

14.5%

Pineapple, marmalade, honey, toast

Marmalade, orange blossom, coconut, tropical fruits, [150.00]

Tarte aux abricot