DIRECTORS’ CUT

GREG’S PICKS

TERRA ROERO ARNEIS, DOCG, 2020, LOT 2850, P21

GREG & MICHAEL’S PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR OFFERING

KARLO ESTATES ESTATE PINOT NOIR, VQA PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY, 2018 PART OF THE KARLO ESTATES MIXED CASE, LOT 2904, P41 PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS PRIMESAUTIER, VQA FOUR MILE CREEK, 2020, PART OF THE PEARL MORISSETTE NIAGARA VINEYARDS CASE, LOT 2898, P37

MICHAEL’S PICKS

LE RIVAL, AOC LUSSAC-SAINTÉMILION, 2015, LOT 2928, P62 CABUTTO TENUTA LA VOLTA BAROLO, DOCG, 2017, LOT 2848, P17 MALVIRÀ ROERO, DOCG, RISERVA VIGNA TRINITÀ, 2016 (HAND PAINTED MAGNUM), LOT 2877, P23

MASTER PIECE Oh Canada!

Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine

It has been thirty years since Inniskillin was awarded the Grand Prix d’Honneur at Vinexpo in Bordeaux for its 1989 Vidal Icewine from Niagara. Over three decades since that award, Canadian wine production has grown and its international reputation expanded beyond Icewine.

It is difficult to quantify how much the Canadian wine industry has grown, as no consistent data is published and statistics are complicated by the fact that less than half the wine commonly referred to as Canadian wine is made from grapes grown in Canada. These are the international domestic blends (IDBs) produced from bulk wines imported from countries such as Australia, Chile and South Africa blended with Canadian wine (at times as little as 10%). True Canadian wine is made from 100% grapes grown in Canada with the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA), a guarantee of provenance. It is an exciting time for these wines and I am fortunate to have been able to follow progress over the years, taking advantage during Opimian trips to Canada for winery visits in Ontario and British Columbia. Together these two provinces represent over 95% of certified Canadian wine production and both have seen increases in vineyard acreage and the number of licensed wineries. Similar trends are seen in Quebec and Nova Scotia. Ontario has three principal regional Appellations and was the first to establish the Vintners Quality Alliance. A wide range of grape varieties are planted on diverse soils, often boasting a high concentration of limestone. Winter is hard and long in Ontario. Were it not for the tempering effect of Lakes Ontario, Erie and

KARLO ESTATES BUBBLE, VQA ONTARIO, 2020, LOT 2903, P43

Huron, the cultivation of Vitis vinifera would be near impossible. As it is, after harvest, each vine must be protected from the cold as temperatures below -20˚C kill this European vine (Native American Labrusca and hybrid varieties are more resistant but generally lower in potential quality). This is done by “hilling” up, whereby soil mounds, which act as insulation, are built up around the base of the vines. The long winter means that the growing season is shorter than most other viticultural areas. Warm summer temperatures and sunshine allow vines to make up for a late start, but late spring or early autumn frosts can lead to quite a bit of variation between the years reflected in wines produced. The largest region, the Niagara Peninsula, represents approximately 90% of Ontario’s production, followed by Lake Erie North Shore and the most recently recognized VQA Prince Edward County. Niagara Peninsula is a strip of land between Lake Ontario and the ridge that is the Niagara Escarpment, which rises up to 100 metres. Westerly breezes from the lake warm the air in winter and create convection currents as they hit the escarpment, preventing freezing. As one would suppose, terroir, which includes site location, plays a huge role and Niagara Peninsula is made up of two regional Appellations: Niagara Escarpment and Niagara-on-the Lake, with a further ten sub Appellations each with its own unique geographical conditions. Pearl Morissette winery, located in the Creek Shores Appellation, also has vineyards in the Twenty Mile Bench VQA. French