corner that sits above Portugal is also exposed to the vagaries of the ocean, wind and rain, although the further inland we go, the lesser the impact. Rias Baixas, closest to the coast, is known for its crisp whites made from Albariño that pair perfectly with the local seafood. Further inland, Godello is planted for whites along the twisty hillside banks of the river Miño in Ribeira Sacra and in Valdeorras. Both also produce quality red wines from the Mencia grape. In Rioja, the impact of the Atlantic Ocean is tempered by the Cantabrian Mountains that lie between Spain's most famous wine region and the coast. The impact is a significant drop in rainfall, to the extent that drought can be a problem! Rioja DOCa vineyards stretch for 140 kilometres of the Ebro Valley as it runs from the mountains south-eastwards to the Mediterranean sea. The climate in the southeastern part is significantly warmer as the Mediterranean influence increases and a higher proportion of Grenache is planted there. Tempranillo, however, remains the dominant grape. Rioja wine styles were heavily influenced in the 19th century when négociants from Bordeaux came knocking as the Phylloxera pandemic had devastated France’s vineyards. Rioja wines became known for their distinctly oaky coconut flavours and light body. Ribera del Duero wines are also based on Tempranillo, locally known as Tinta del Pais, yet its wines are very different. Its vineyards in central northern Spain are located on the plateau, up to 850 metres in altitude on either side of the Duero River. Ribera del Duero has a more extreme continental climate with hot summer days and temperatures reaching 40°C, followed by cold nights, thus producing concentrated, firmer and more savoury red wines than Rioja. As the Duero River continues its journey westwards, Tempranillo has adapted to an even more extreme climate in Toro DO where it produces small thick-skinned tannic berries known as “Tinta de Toro”, and meatier, more rustic wines. Neighbouring Rueda is known for its dry white wines produced from Verdejo, and more recently, Sauvignon Blanc. Spain’s signature sparkling wine, Cava, is mainly produced in Catalonia in the hills behind Barcelona. Macabeo, Parellada, Xarello, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are cultivated on limestone hillsides under a warm Mediterranean climate. Taking inspiration from the Champagne region in the 19th century, the same winemaking techniques are used. Catalonia also produces highly concentrated alcoholic reds in the Priorato hills, with more restrained reds and whites in Penedès and Conca de Barbera. Like many other regions, there is a revival of indigenous grapes such as Trepat.
COUPS DE COEUR THIS CELLAR'S HIGHEST SCORING WINES
EVERYDAY DRINKING MARQUÉS DE REINOSA CRIANZA, DOCA. RIOJA, 2018, LOT 3310, P25
OXTE THE SILENCE RED BLEND, SUNSET, DOP CARIÑENA, BODEM BODEGAS, 2021, LOT 3334, P47
CELLARING POTENTIAL MONTBLANC 362 RESERVA, DO CONCA DE BARBERÀ, 2017, LOT 3347, P45
SENDA DE LOS OLIVOS CRIANZA, DO RIBERA DEL DUERO, BODEGAS ZIFAR, 2018, LOT 3314, P30
Southern Spain is hot and dry with chalky white soils. Palomino grapes are used to produce world-class fortified sherry wines - from pale dry Finos and Manzanillas, whose taste is due to the development of a veil of flor yeast during maturation, to the dark, rich and nutty-tasting Olorosos. Sweet, dark, thick, treacly wines are also made from Pedro Ximénez (PX), not to mention solera aged brandies from Jerez. Spain is indeed an exciting wine country to explore!
— CELLAR 294 COUPS DE COEUR
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