Cellar 278-YT: Languedoc-Roussillon, Corsica, Burgundy and the Loire Valley

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cellar

YT

278 Order between

July 14 and

August 17, 2020

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON, CORSICA, BURGUNDY AND THE LOIRE VALLEY


Ordering Made Easy Legend Grape variety Red - White - Rosé Sparkling - Port Bottle size

Number of bottles in case

Aroma

Taste

Serving temperature

Ideal with Evolution Drink this year Will develop, drink within 2 years Meant for cellaring Concentration Light - Medium - Great

1. SELECT YOUR WINES Let yourself be inspired by our detailed descriptions to find out which wines best suit your palate. Our custom chart on the left also features a variety of user-friendly symbols that can guide your selection. Still unsure what to order? Opimian’s Member Service team is always available to help you make an informed choice. Call us at 1-800-361-9421 or e-mail MemberService@Opimian.ca. 2. PLACE YOUR ORDER Last day to order for this Cellar Offering is Monday, August 17, 2020. No orders will be processed after this time. There are four ways to order: • Online: Go to Opimian.ca, sign in and select Order Wine. • Email MemberService@Opimian.ca with your selection. • Call 1-800-361-9421, Monday-Friday, 10am - 5pm ET. • Mail your order by August 7, 2020. Please allow 10 days for delivery by Canada Post. 3. LET US HANDLE THE REST The wines featured on this Cellar Offering are still at the producers’ wineries when you order them, so it is normal that the process takes a bit of time and effort on our side. Release dates are dependent upon actual arrival dates, distance from port of entry to liquor board and processing time required by each liquor board. For this Cellar Offering, the expected release date is January 2021. Once the wine arrives at your local liquor store or distribution centre, you will receive a Pick-up Notice with the specified date (the Release Date) and your pick-up location.

Conditions of Purchase • Accepted payment methods: Credit Card (Visa, MasterCard, American Express) or cheque payable to Opimian. • Prices include all applicable federal and provincial markups and taxes. • A valid membership card is required to order. • Bottle prices are for reference only. All orders are by the case, with no minimum required.

Oak Light - Medium - Heavy Organic*

Vegetarian** Limited quantities Limited Very limited Extremely limited Less than 100 cases available Members’ Choice 2019 favourite

*This information is provided by our suppliers and reflects the certifications of their own countries which do not necessarily match Canadian norms.

Sweetness scale Opimian Suggests Starting a cellar Medal Winner Discovery 2019 Discovery Program Case - C269 Select Plus 2019 Select Plus Program Case - C269 M—Degree of Maturity (1-10) M1 = lay down M10 = fully mature

22

D—Degree of Drinkability (1-10) D1 = needs time D10 = ready to drink

OPIMIAN WINE CLUB DE VIN —

300 - 2170 RENÉ-LÉVESQUE WEST MONTREAL QC H3H 2T8

Grams/litre

**This information is provided by our producers and may not reflect Canadian norms.

Examples

[00]

0-3

Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, many reds

[01]

4-6

Some New World varietals, some reds

[02]

7 - 12

[03]

13 - 20

Champagne, Sparkling, Rosés, few reds Mosel, some Alsace, Anjou

[04]

21 - 34

Semi-sweet Bordeaux, some sherry

[05]

35 - 50

Kabinett German, Late Harvest, Alsace

[06]

51 - 74

Spätlese German, Sweet Loire, Port, Dessert Muscat

[07]

75 - 100

Auslese, Beerenauslese

[08]

101 - 139

Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port

[09]

140 - 179

Icewines, Sauternes, Barsac, dessert wines, Port

[10]

180 >

Speciality sweet wines, Trockenbeerenauslese


Languedoc-Roussillon

Cellar 278

Languedoc-Roussillon, Corsica, Burgundy and the Loire Valley The Languedoc-Roussillon extends across southern France from Provence in the east to the Pyrénées Mountains and the border with Spain to the west. The region’s consistent warm sunny climate makes it ideal for growing grapes. The best sites, on outcrops and mountain foothills, produce individualistic wines with personality. Corsica shares a Mediterranean climate but has its own history resulting in its own traditional varieties and styles of wine. In the north of France, the country’s longest river, the Loire, is the backdrop to a series of wine regions along its banks stretching from Pouilly-sur-Loire, directly south of Paris, to Muscadet in the west where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean. In the north-east, Burgundy is home to the “Holy Grail” of grapes for many winemakers: Pinot Noir. Winemakers around the world try to emulate wines made in Burgundy with this temperamental and difficult to grow grape variety.

JANE MASTERS MW, OPIMIAN’S MASTER OF WINE Every wine offered by Opimian is tasted and selected for its deliciousness and value by our consultant Master of Wine, Jane Masters MW. Jane also chooses the mixed cases for Opimian’s Discovery and Select Plus subscription programs for members to discover wines in an easy way, as well as wines for the premium Founders’ Choice program. As one of 394 Masters of Wine worldwide, Jane has in-depth knowledge and her aim is to share her love of wine with members via the Cellar Offering. She was elected Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine 2016-2018.

cover — Berny the dog explores the vineyards at

Domaine de la Jasse.

FEATURED Château Canet --------------------------4 BLB Vignobles------------------------ 14 Paul Sapin---------------------------- 18 Domaine Jones------------------------ 24 Domaine Orenga de Gaffory------------ 28 Bernard Perrin------------------------ 32 Maison Foucher Lebrun--------------- 38

— CELLAR 278 YUKON

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4

CELLAR 278 — YUKON


FRANCE

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Rustiques, Languedoc

Château Canet Château Canet, located outside the village of Rustiques, is in the west of the Minervois appellation approximately 10 kilometres east of the medieval fortified city of Carcassonne. Floris and Vicky Lemstra purchased the property, a 12th century wine estate, in 2007 making it their family home and livelihood. Over the years, they have dedicated themselves to making Château Canet special by reinvesting in the winery, the vineyards and the olive groves, and converting the original winemaker’s cottages into holiday accommodations. Their children Oliver and Charlotte, raised on the estate, are now making their own wines too. Floris is as driven today as he was in the early days at Canet. His wines are delicious. Grapes are grown on Terra Vitis-certified vineyards using bio-protection, thereby eliminating sulphite preservatives.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

photo — Château Canet is a family affair: Oliver, Victoria, Charlotte and Floris Lemstra are all actively involved in the winery.

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON CHÂTEAU CANET

5


These wines are great value for money. The new generation of winemakers is onto something!

NEW

1965

FLEUR DE CHARLOTTE CHARDONNAY, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019

1966

Chardonnay $ 23.00

FLEUR DE CHARLOTTE VIOGNIER, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019

$ 138.00 Viognier

Fleur de Charlotte Chardonnay has subtle stone fruit aromas with nectarines and peaches. It is medium bodied with fresh fruit flavours on the palate leading to a crisp acidity with a bitter pith finish adding length. This range of wines, created by Floris’ daughter Charlotte, is a young elegant style produced from locally sourced grapes. Chardonnay grapes came from Limoux on the first slopes of the Pyrénées, 25 kilometres south of Carcassonne.

$ 23.00

Grown in the area around Sète, this Viognier has a honeyed nose with some white fruits and peach blossom with a touch of fresh fennel. It is smooth on the palate with a fine texture and long finish. A short skin contact was carried out then the juice fermented at low temperature with no use of oak.

2020-2021, M8 D9 Nectarines, peaches

6

6°C

$ 138.00

2020-2021, M8 D9 Honey, peach blossom

6°C

Fresh fruits, pith, [00]

White fruits, smooth, [00]

Fish tacos with peach salsa and arugula

Lightly grilled pork chops with honey gastrique

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

all photos — Charlotte poses in a poppy field with her

wine: the elegance of the south of France in a glass .


NEW NEW

1967

FLEUR DE CHARLOTTE SYRAH ROSÉ, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019

FLEUR DE CHARLOTTE MERLOT, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Merlot

Syrah, Cinsault $ 23.00

1968

$ 138.00

Pale pink in colour with aromas of rosehip and grenadine and a slight savoury character. It was produced from Syrah grapes grown on younger vines with a small amount of Cinsault added. It is supple with a mouth-filling mid-palate and a crisp cranberry finish.

$ 23.00

Violets, candy floss and sweet fruits show on the nose. This is a smooth, supple wine with blackcurrant flavours and a long bitter cherry finish. Merlot grapes were grown in vineyards around the medieval city of Carcassonne.

2020-2021, M8 D9 Rosehip

6°C

$ 138.00

2020-2022, M8 D9 Violets, candy floss

16°C

Supple, tart red fruits, [00]

Bitter cherries

Cobb salad with spiced chicken breast and Roquefort

Gioulbasi of pork with red wine-sour cherry sauce

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON CHÂTEAU CANET

7


NEW

1969

NEW

FLEUR DE CHARLOTTE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon $ 23.00

DOMAINE D’O CHARDONNAY, IGP HAUTE VALLÉE D’AUDE, 2019 Chardonnay

$ 138.00

Intensely coloured with aromas of spices and dark fruits with a savoury edge. Fleur de Charlotte Cabernet Sauvignon is a medium- to full-bodied wine. It is well balanced with ripe tannins and some structure. Grapes were grown near SaintHilaire in Limoux. 2020-2023, M7 D9 Dark fruits, spices

1970

18°C

Savoury, ripe fruit

$ 31.00

$ 186.00

“O” stands for Oliver, Floris and Vicky’s son. Domaine d’O is his and consists of 12 hectares in the Limoux appellation. Vines are planted at 400 metres altitude with an ensuing cool climate compared to other regions in the Languedoc making it ideal to create more Burgundian wine styles. Floris and Vicky lived in Burgundy when they met; Oliver was born and spent his early years there, so it is perhaps only natural that he is drawn to making such wine styles. Domaine d’O 2019 Chardonnay is an oaky wine with aromas of butterscotch, toffee and yogurt. It was part-matured in new oak barrels from the forests of Bertranges and Nièvre. Cooked pears, tropical fruit and custard lead to a firm finish. 2019 was Oliver’s second vintage at Domaine d’O, and the results are impressive.

2020-2022, M8 D9 Butterscotch, toffee

6°C

Pears, yogurt, [00] Vegetable terrine with olive oil and fleur de sel

Moroccan lamb meatballs with dates and cinnamon

8

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

photo — Fleur de Charlotte & Domaine d’O: the next generation in a bottle.


1972 1971

VIGNOBLES CANET, MERLOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SPECIAL OAK RESERVE, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019

Picpoul $ 29.00

$ 174.00

Dark smoky fruits with spicy oak and vanilla aromas lead to a soft juicy wine brimming with fruits and a bitter cherry finish. It is a blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon; grapes were grown in Minervois, Limoux and Cabardès. After fermentation, it was matured in oak for eight months.

Aromas of honeysuckle and sherbet mingle with those of lime leaves. On the palate, it is soft and smooth; easy drinking with flavours of sweet limes and elderflower with a supple mid-palate. Citrus flavours of lemon and tinned grapefruit persist on the tongue complemented by a firm acidity. Picpoul grapes were grown in the village of Pinet, close to the Étang de Thau and the Mediterranean Sea.

2020-2022, M8 D9

2020-2021, M8 D9

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 26.00

Smoky, dark fruits

photo — Nestled between vineyards & olive groves, Château Canet offers a perfect place to get away and hear the chatter of the birds.

VIGNOBLES CANET, PICPOUL DE PINET, AOP, TÊTE DE CUVÉE, 2019

$ 156.00

18°C

Honeysuckle, lime leaves, sherbet

6°C

Vanilla, spicy, bitter cherries

lime, tinned grapefruit, [00]

Stir-fried duck breast lo mein with oyster sauce

Shrimp ceviche with avocado and lime

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON CHÂTEAU CANET

9


NEW

1973

BULLES D’O, BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX, AOP, TÊTE DE CUVÉE, 2017 Mauzac, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc $ 34.00

$ 204.00

A delicious sparkling wine for any occasion, it is pale in colour with appealing white fruits, lime custard and lemon sherbet aromas. The creamy mousse produces a smooth palate with nice lemon acidity. Fermented in bottle to produce the bubbles, it was matured on lees for two years. The monks of the Abbey of Saint-Hilaire started making sparkling wine in 1531; 150 years before Champagne was invented. 2020-2021, M8 D9 White fruits, lime custard

6° C

Creamy mousse, lemon zest, [02] Peach cobbler with crème fraîche

10

CELLAR 278 — YUKON


1974

CHÂTEAU CANET, AOP MINERVOIS, BLANC, 2019 Roussanne, Vermentino $ 31.00

$ 186.00

Appealing white fruit and lime blossom aromas precede a supple wine with nice mid-palate and smooth texture. It has a refreshing crisp finish with lingering fresh apples and peach flavours. It is a blend slowly fermented over 187 days at low temperature followed by maturation in tank for eight months with a short time in oak. A gold medal winner at Le Concours Général Agricole Paris 2020. 2020-2021, M8 D9 White fruits, lime blossom

1975

CHÂTEAU CANET, AOP MINERVOIS, ROUGE, 2019 Syrah, Grenache $ 31.00

1976

CANET FAMILY RÉSERVE, AOP MINERVOIS, 2019 Syrah, Grenache

$ 186.00

A juicy wine brimming with red berries and dark fruits, it is intensely coloured and intense in flavour. Medium-bodied and supple with smooth, ripe tannins. A blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache, grapes were harvested at night and kept cool for four days on their skins. After fermentation, 15% of the wine was matured in oak adding depth rather than oaky character. A Coup de cœur, and not only for me: it was awarded a gold medal by French wine guide Gilbert & Gaillard.

$ 33.00

$ 198.00

Family Reserve 2019 is a medium- to fullbodied wine with mellow black fruit, spicy aromas and a subtle hint of soot. It is dense with a smooth powdery texture and delicious ripe black cherry flavours mid-palate. Floris and Vicky have family not only in France but Holland, Canada and New Zealand too. Family reserve is a special cuvée made and bottled specially for the family to enjoy.

2020-2023, M8 D9

6°C

Fresh apples, peach, [00]

Red berries

Poached halibut with mango salsa

Juicy fruits

18°C

Classic cassoulet

2020-2024, M8 D9 Mellow, black fruits, soot

18°C

Black cherries Tri-tip with wine-peppercorn sauce

photo — Harvesting by night at Canet. The early bird catches the worm!

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON CHÂTEAU CANET

11


MIXED CASE 1977

CHÂTEAU CANET (WOOD CASE) $ 53.00

$ 318.00

Château Canet produces its two top cuvées from the two most special plots on the estate: La Chapelle and Les Evangiles.

Three bottles each La Chapelle & Les Evangiles

CHÂTEAU CANET LES EVANGILES, AOP, CUVÉE SYRAH, 2018 Syrah

CHÂTEAU CANET LA CHAPELLE, AOP, CUVÉE GRENACHE, 2017 Grenache

2020-2024, M8 D9 Fresh earth, treacle, raisined fruit Red fruits, cranberries, incense Tunisian beef stew with dried figs

12

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

18°C

Within Château Canet’s grounds are the remnants of a 12th century chapel, and this is where the estate’s oldest vineyard lies with Grenache vines planted over 70 years ago. The vines are gnarled and twisted, yielding fewer and fewer grapes each year, though producing vibrant wines that are elegant with great depth. The 2017 has a raisined fruit aroma with figs, some treacle and fresh wet earth. Fresh red fruit flavours sing on the palate with a vibrant juicy acidity and flavours of redcurrants and cranberries. It has a soft, grainy texture with lingering flavours of incense and fruit. Grapes were harvested late on October 2, 2017 and underwent a cold maceration for ten days. It was fermented in traditional tanks with the cap pushed down by foot twice a day.

A rich, concentrated and full-bodied wine. The Syrah vines that produce Les Evangiles are located on the highest point of the estate on deep soils of clay and limestone. The 2018 is youthful with aromas of fresh apples, cooked blackcurrants with vanilla and notes of crumble. Maturation in Burgundian oak barrels, with 30% new, has conferred woody flavours with cloves and nutmeg that complement blackberry flavours. It is concentrated with a grainy texture and will benefit from some cellaring before optimum drinking. 2020-2026, M7 D9 Cooked blackcurrant, vanilla, crumble

18°C

Nutmeg, clove, dark fruit Venison daube with currant-jelly sauce


NEW

Read about the Carcassonne tourist region, where Château Canet is located, in Vino Etcetera.

1978

L’APPROCHE, MAS D’ENCHA, AOP FAUGÈRES Syrah, Grenache $ 38.00

$ 228.00

The Faugères appellation is 100 kilometres north-east of Château Canet and is typified by its schist soils. Mas d’Encha is owned by a friend of Floris, Richard Dalichoux, who purchased five hectares on prime schist terroir at 300 metres in the year 2000. The vineyard is located on the foothills of the Cévennes Mountains facing south. His 2019 is intense in colour with mellow black olives, cherries and cream aromas. It is mouthfilling and succulent. A dense wine with a solid structure, fine-grained tannins, fresh plum fruits and chocolate flavours. 2020-2026, M7 D9 Black olive, cherries and cream

18°C

Fresh plums, chocolate Lamb shanks with Kalamata olives

photo — Floris has an eye for perfection — the difference is in the detail.

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON CHÂTEAU CANET

13


14

CELLAR 278 — YUKON


FRANCE

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Combaillaux

BLB Vignobles Domaine de la Jasse

Domaine de la Jasse, located near the village of Combaillaux to the north of Montpellier, is owned and managed by Bruno Le Breton. The vineyard, originally planted by the Baujard family on virgincleared land in the foothills of the Cévennes Mountains in the 1970s, was purchased by Hans Walraven in 1995. Walraven, a Dutch wine importer with an appreciation of fine Bordeaux, engaged Bruno as winemaker. His task? Produce an “everyday Grand Cru.” And so began this lifelong project. When Walraven retired in 2008, he sold the domain to Bruno. The vision to produce the best possible tasting Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines remains the same with equal added focus on how wines are made and drunk respecting the natural environment, social and health considerations.

photo — Spring time at Domaine de la Jasse. The estate mainly produces Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes up about 70% of the vineyard.

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON BLB VIGNOBLES

15


1980

FINES BULLES DE LA JASSE, BRUT, ROSÉ, VIN DE FRANCE, 2019 Grenache, Syrah, Merlot $ 186.00

$ 31.00

A soft, smooth glass of bubbly, it is delicate salmonpink in colour with blackcurrant cordial, blackberry flavours and a crisp dry finish. A blend of 60% Grenache, 35% Syrah and 5% Merlot, grapes were pressed and fermented in pressure tanks to retain the natural sparkle produced by the yeast. 2020-2021, M8 D9 Blackcurrant cordial

5°C

Blackberries, crisp finish, [00] Spicy vegetable pakoras with tamarind dipping sauce

1981

VIEILLES VIGNES DE LA JASSE, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot $ 30.00

$ 180.00

2021-2024, M7 D8 Herbal, black cherries

18°C

Treacle, cherries, bitter chocolate Ratatouille with fennel and goat cheese

16

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

The vineyards of Domaine de la Jasse are planted in the foothills of the Cévennes Mountains between 150200 metres altitude. The altitude and proximity of the mountains means that during the warm summer months, cool nights allow Cabernet Sauvignon grapes to ripen slowly and develop fresh intense flavours and tannins. The 2019 Vieilles Vignes has herbal and green leaf aromas over a black cherry background. The palate is silky with succulent black cherry fruits, treacle and bitter chocolate flavours. Produced from Cabernet Sauvignon with 10% Merlot. photo — “La Jasse” means shelter in Occitan. The plane tree of the Domaine, now 110 years old, inspired the design of the house logo.


1982

RÉSERVE D’EXCELLENCE DE LA JASSE, IGP PAYS D’OC, ÉLEVÉ EN FÛTS DE CHÊNE, 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon $ 32.00

1983

TÊTE DE CUVÉE DE LA JASSE, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 192.00

For many years, the advice of Patrick Léon, previously Technical Director at Château Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac, Bordeaux, helped Bruno discover how to get the most out of his Cabernet Sauvignon. Réserve d’Excellence was the result of the close collaboration between the two. It is made from a special selection of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes which undergo an extended maceration. The 2018 has savoury aromas with spices, curry leaves and green peppers. It is a succulent wine with lots of dark fruits, ripe cherries and blackcurrant. Rich and smooth, it is dense with a fine texture and lingering flavours of bitter cherries and marzipan.

$ 34.00

2018 Tête de Cuvée de la Jasse has mellow aromas with a distinctly oaky-spicy character yet is more restrained in aroma currently than the Réserve d’Excellence with subtle dark fruits. It is fine in texture with succulent black cherry and blackberry fruits and a good mid-palate. Grapes came from a parcel selection of the estate’s oldest vineyards on the finest limestone soils. One of my favorites in the Cellar Offering, like all the Domaine de la Jasse reds, it is a wine with both finesse and structure and has the potential for some cellaring.

2020-2024, M7 D9 Savoury, curry leaf, blackcurrant, spices

18°C

$ 204.00

2020-2025, M7 D9 Mellow, oak spice, subtle fruits

18°C

Bitter cherries, marzipan Black cherries, blackberries Hanger steak with chimichurri

photo — Bruno Le Breton, the winemaker, is committed to staying true to the terroir and microclimate of the region.

Blackberry-braised beef short ribs with thyme

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON BLB VIGNOBLES

17


18

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

photo — The Château is located in the middle of the Domaine Blomac vineyard. It has been transformed into a luxury bed and breakfast.


FRANCE

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON

Paul Sapin

Thierry Coulon was a fan of Languedoc wines for many years, appreciating the quality and value of wines that could be made in the region. Collaborating with Olivier Mandeville at Domaine Peirière at Azille, the company purchased their own vineyards at Blomac making a range of varietal wines.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

1984

MAISON BELLEROCHE GRENACHE ROSÉ, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Grenache $ 19.00

$ 228.00

Pale baby-pink in colour, this is a light refreshing rosé made from Grenache with fresh fruit flavours. Grown on clay limestone soils, Grenache was harvested with some of the grapes pressed immediately, some left on their skins for hours. 2020-2021, M8 D9 Fresh fruit

6°C

Apples, [00] Melon, prosciutto and fresh figs

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON PAUL SAPIN

19


1985

MAISON BELLEROCHE MALBEC, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Malbec $ 19.00

1986

MAISON BELLEROCHE CABERNET SAUVIGNON, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon

$ 228.00

A medium- to full-bodied Malbec with red cherry and mulberry flavours, it is supple and easy drinking. Malbec grapes were grown close to Béziers on light pebbly soils.

$ 19.00

16°C

DOMAINE PEIRIÈRE RÉSERVE SAUVIGNON, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Sauvignon Blanc

$ 228.00

$ 19.00

$ 228.00

A light- to medium-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon with appealing blackberry and raspberry flavours.

2020-2022, M8 D9 Mulberries

1987

2020-2022, M8 D9 Blackberries

18°C

Red cherries

Raspberries, dark fruit

Blue cheese-stuffed grilled hamburger

Fondue Bourguignonne with Gruyere and Gouda sauce

Intense tropical fruit aromas with a touch of flint lead to a smooth palate. This is a lightbodied white wine with lots of mango and lemon flavours made by Olivier Mandeville at Domaine Peirière. The estate at Azille lies in the heart of the Minervois, while some of the vineyards are just outside the appellation producing varietal IGP wines. The location benefits from the proximity of the Montagne Noire to provide cool relief at night from the summer heat. 2020-2021, M8 D9 Tropical fruits, flint

5°C

Mango, lemon, [01] Sole meunière with lemon butter

20

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

photo — Minerve is a small city in the heart of the Languedoc. This is where “Minervois” get its name.


1988

DOMAINE PEIRIÈRE RÉSERVE VIOGNIER, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019

1989

Viognier $ 20.00

DOMAINE PEIRIÈRE RÉSERVE MERLOT, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019

$ 240.00 Merlot

Olivier Mandeville’s father was one of the first to plant Viognier in the Languedoc decades before the grape variety became the commercial success that it is today. His 2019 has ripe peach, banana and white fruits on the nose. It is crisp with a refreshing acidity and a lemon-mango finish.

$ 228.00

$ 19.00

The soft medium-bodied Merlot from Domaine Peirière has leafy and green pepper aromas followed by savoury flavours. This 400-year-old family estate has a total of 230 hectares of vines. The Merlot vines for this wine were planted 20-25 years ago by Mandeville.

2020-2021, M8 D9 Ripe peaches, banana

6°C

2020-2022, M8 D9 Green leaf, green pepper

18°C

White fruits, lemon, mango, [00]

Savoury

Thai fish cakes with lemongrass

Veal chops with rosemary

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON PAUL SAPIN

21


1990

DOMAINE PEIRIÈRE RÉSERVE PINOT NOIR, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Pinot Noir $ 21.00

$ 252.00

2019 Domaine Peirière Réserve Pinot Noir is a structured wine with dark cherry aromas and blackberry flavours. It is supple with floral notes evolving in the glass with more weight and structure than most Pinots. 2020-2022, M8 D9 Black cherries

16°C

Sour blackberry, floral Classic coq au vin

1991

DOMAINE BLOMAC CHARDONNAY, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Chardonnay $ 20.00

$ 240.00

A smooth supple Chardonnay with no use of oak, it has appealing grapefruit and lemon curd flavours with a crisp finish.

2020-2021, M8 D9 Grapefruit

6°C

Lemon curd, smooth, crisp, [01] Blue cheese with a drizzle of honey

22

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

bottom photo — Thierry Coulon in the Chardonnay vineyards of Domaine Peirière.


NEW

1994

PAUL SAPIN, LA COLLECTION, BOURGOGNE BLANC, AOP, 2019 Chardonnay $ 33.00

$ 198.00

Sourced from the Mâconnais in southern Burgundy, this 2019 Bourgogne Blanc has intense fresh melon and pear aromas. It is smooth and round with a crisp acidity and lingering lemon and nectarine finish. Fermented in stainless steel vats with no use of oak.

NEW NEW

1992

LA MARIDELLE SYRAH, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019

1993

LA MARIDELLE MALBEC, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Malbec

Syrah

$ 24.00

$ 24.00

$ 144.00

Black cherries, sweet blueberries and a touch of spice precede a more savoury character on the palate with dark fruits and a twist of nutmeg. It is medium bodied with a supple mid-palate and sour cherry finish with grip.

$ 144.00

Produced from Malbec grapes grown in Limoux, La Maridelle Malbec has appealing berry fruits with just a hint of leather on the nose. More ripe fruits emerge on the palate which is smooth and soft. This is a medium-bodied wine which is easy drinking and flavoursome on the finish.

2020-2023, M8 D9 Blueberries, black cherries, lint

18°C

2020-2022, M8 D9 Soft berries, hint leather

18°C

2020-2022, M8 D9 Fresh melons, pears

6°C

Savoury notes, dark fruit, nutmeg

Smooth ripe fruits

Supple, lemon, nectarine, crisp, [00]

Leg of lamb stuffed with dried fruits

Grilled drumsticks with hoisin

Pan-seared salmon with lemon-butter sauce

top photo — The village of Siran, located at the

foot of the Black Mountain, is the ancient site of a Roman castrum.

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON PAUL SAPIN

23


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CELLAR 278 — YUKON

photo — Katie Jones’ Grenache vineyard, under the imposing Queries Castle just over the border in the Roussillon.


FRANCE

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON Tuchan

Domaine Jones was started by Katie Jones from her little village of Tuchan in south-west France. Around Tuchan, the landscape is dotted with ruins of ancient fortified castles atop hills. Known as “Cathar country,” the Cathars were a religious sect which flourished in the 12th century challenging the authority of the Catholic Church who condemned them as heretics. During the crusade against them, the Cathars took refuge in these sites.

Domaine Jones

Katie came to live in Tuchan to work for the local cooperative, and for years she sold Fitou wines around the world. When she heard talk of ancient vines on steep hillsides being abandoned – they were too much hard work with yields which were not economically viable – she was determined to see what she could do. She took the plunge and bought her first small plot in 2009.

PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR

NEW

1996

KATIE JONES ROUGE, VIN DE FRANCE, 2018

1997

HERBARIUM CARIGNAN, DOMAINE JEAN-MARC ASTRUC, IGP PAYS D’OC, 2019 Carignan

Grenache, Syrah $ 27.00

$ 28.00 $ 162.00

Katie Jones Red is a wine with restraint; brambly fruit on the nose follows through onto the palate. It is light- to medium-bodied and supple with a velvety mid-palate and some grip on the finish. A blend of 80% Grenache with 20% Syrah.

Deep in colour, Herbarium Carignan has mellow, cooked plummy fruits and mulberry jam aromas. It is soft, smooth, mediumbodied and dense with a fine-grained texture and lingering flavours. It was produced from Carignan grown in two sites, both organically farmed: Puy de la Gardie and Les Rouires. Vinification was adapted to keep the tannins soft by first placing a layer of hand-picked whole-bunch Carignan in the bottom of the tank, then filling with destalked grapes. It was kept on skins for eight days.

2020-2022, M8 D9 Brambles

16°C

$ 168.00

2020-2023, M7 D9 Mulberry jam, damson

Succulent fruits, velvet texture

Mellow cooked fruits

Lentil stew with dried fruits

Spicy lamb meatballs

16°C

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON DOMAINE JONES

25


NEW

1998

FITOU, CUVÉE HERBARIUM, DOMAINE JEAN-MARC ASTRUC, AOP, 2019 Carignan, Grenache, Syrah $ 32.00

$ 192.00

Aromas reminiscent of the wild scrub in spring and summer – lavender, wild herbs and blueberries – are all present. This is a light- to mediumbodied Fitou with fresh tangy fruit flavours and a powdery cocoa finish made by Katie’s husband, JeanMarc Astruc, who comes from a traditional winemaking family in Tuchan. Grapes for this came from three sites: Puy de la Gardie, a hillside with clay and limestone soils; Les Rouires, in the valley on colluvial and schist soils; and La Tuilerie, in the valley on clay and limestone. This new range of wines was inspired by the numerous wildflowers and herbs found in vineyards around Fitou including wild rosemary, lavender and olive.

1999

DOMAINE JONES GRENACHE NOIR, VIEILLES VIGNES, IGP CÔTES CATALANES, 2018 Grenache $ 38.00

$ 228.00

90-year-old Grenache vines are planted on black slate soils near the village of Maury, a short drive south-west of Tuchan. The vineyard has breathtaking views and is overlooked by Quéribus Castle, perched like an eagle’s nest at the top of a crag. A refuge for the Cathars during their persecution, Quéribus was the last bastion in the region to fall to French crusaders in 1255 to become part of the Kingdom of France. The historic spot is where Katie started Domaine Jones, purchasing her first plot of 8,000 vines. Her 2018 is deep in colour; raspberry aromas are nicely complemented by an herbal green leaf edge. On the palate, it is a rich, mouth-filling wine, smooth with flavours of raspberries, cherries and chocolate. It is dense and fullbodied yet supple with lingering appeal.

2020-2026, M7 D8 Raspberries, green leaf

18°C

Crushed raspberries, cherries, chocolate Bulgogi Korean beef barbecue

2020-2026, M7 D8 Red fruits, red apples

18°C

Vanilla, black cherry Hachis Parmentier (shepherd’s pie)

Follow Katie’s vineyard adventures on her Instagram page @domainejones

26

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

bottom photo — Katie loves rambling around the vineyards in her trusty Citroën Dyane.


2000

DOMAINE JONES FITOU, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP, 2018 Carignan, Grenache, Syrah $ 42.00

$ 252.00

2021-2026, M7 D8 Spicy forest fruits, redcurrants

18°C

Bitter cherries, blackberries, savoury Braised marinated rabbit

Spicy forest fruits, redcurrants with a hint of green leaf make up the bouquet of the old vine Fitou. On the palate, a great tension exists between ripe fruit and savoury rosemary and liquorice notes with lots of forest fruits, bitter cherries and blackberries. A wine with great depth and potential for cellaring. Domaine Jones has 20 small vineyard parcels around the village of Tuchan; each was picked by hand and vinified separately. The fermentation was adapted to each variety and vineyards with grapes macerated from 10 days up to five weeks. The final assemblage is 40% Carignan, 30% Grenache and 30% Syrah with 30% aged with oak.

2001

JONES CARIGNAN, VIEUX CÉPAGES, VIN DE FRANCE, 2018 Carignan $ 43.00

$ 258.00

2018 Carignan Vieux Cépages has pure flavours of cassis and blackcurrants combined with a fresh crystalline sourness. This is a medium-bodied wine with a grainy texture, restrained on the nose with aromas of plums and apricot skins. Carignan grapes came from two small plots planted over 100 years ago in Tuchan. Both are farmed organically: one on limestone and clay soils, the other schist. 2020-2024, M7 D8 Plum skins, blueberries

18°C

Cassis, blackcurrant, bitter cherry Vegan Irish stew with savoury dumplings

photo — Katie and “Monsieur Jones”. A true vine romance!

— LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON DOMAINE JONES

27


28

CELLAR 278 — YUKON


FRANCE

CORSICA

Lieu-dit Morta Majo Patrimonio

Domaine Orenga de Gaffory The island of Corsica is one of the most beautiful places in the world. Often called a “mountain in the sea,” it is the most mountainous island of the Mediterranean, reaching to 2,700 metres. Most of the island is granite formed about 250 million years ago, but a small corner in the north, around Patrimonio, has deep sedimentary limestone soils pushed up from the ocean floor. Henri Orenga de Gaffory organically farms 56 hectares of vineyards on these clay-limestone soils with gravels and schist.

photo — Patrimonio is Corsica’s oldest appellation, created in 1968, with a reputation going back to the Middle Ages.

— CORSICA DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY

29


2003

L’ALZETANA BLANC, AOP PATRIMONIO, ORENGA DE GAFFORY, 2019 Vermentino $ 36.00

$ 216.00

A deliciously subtle wine with ethereal aromas of nectarines and orange blossom. After the tasting day was over, I took it home and it was an absolute treat. The fresh fruit aromas lead to a smooth palate with more stone fruits – nectarines, apricot and cream with a citrus finish. A wine with grace and presence. 2020-2021, M8 D9 Nectarine, orange blossom

6°C

Ripe stone fruits, [00] Tuna carpaccio with blood orange

2004

L’ALZETANA ROSÉ, AOP PATRIMONIO, ORENGA DE GAFFORY, 2019 Nielluccio, Sciacarello $ 36.00

$ 216.00

2020-2021, M8 D9 Subtle fruits Candied peel, red fruits, [00] Salade Niçoise

30

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

6°C

Corsican rosé wines are akin to Provence rosés, although they are generally made from different grape varieties – in this case, a blend of 90% Nielluccio and 10% Sciacarello. Pale in colour, it has a winey nose with some spice and earth with subtle red fruits. It is smooth and well-balanced with some candied peel and red fruit flavours. top photo — Harvest takes place in September when

plump sun-drenched berries burst with delicious flavours and fragrant aromas.


NEW

2005

L’ALZETANA ROUGE, AOP PATRIMONIO, ORENGA DE GAFFORY, 2017

$ 216.00

A light- to mediumbodied red wine with aromas of treacle, plums, raisins and floral notes with some coffee. Fresh raspberries and plum flavours come through on the palate with a grippy chocolate finish. Nielluccio, a local variant of the Sangiovese grape (Corsica is geographically closer to Italy and Tuscany than France), does best cultivated on the chalky limestone soils of Patrimonio in the north of the island. 2020-2023, M8 D9 Treacle, raisins, coffee, plums, floral

DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY, MUSCAT DU CAP CORSE, 2019 Muscat

Nielluccio, Grenache $ 36.00

2006

18°C

$ 35.00

At the very top of the island, Cap Corse is a rugged peninsula 40 kilometres long and just 15 kilometres wide, yet it takes a full day to drive the narrow windy route around it. In this modern age, Cap Corse feels somewhat forgotten although it was once one of the most prosperous regions of the island. At its centre are mountains and untamed landscapes dotted with ancient chapels and convents; around its edges lie picturesque fishing villages, hamlets and remote beaches. The region makes a unique sweet wine: Muscat de Cap Corse. The 2019 Domaine Orenga de Gaffory has lemon curd aromas with just a touch of rose petal. On the palate, it is sweet with just the right level of alcohol and acidity to give balance. It is smooth with great depth of flavour leading to a long bitter orange finish.

bottom photo — The produced wines are characterized by their complexity, are capable of aging, yet reveal unique freshness.

2020-2024, M7 D9 Lemon curd, rose petal

6°C

Ripe fruits, Turkish delight, bitter orange, [07]

Raspberry, chocolate Lamb tagine with dates

$ 210.00

Jane Masters MW got her start working for this vineyard! Read about it in Vino Etcetera.

Sichuan peppercorn-spiced wings

— CORSICA DOMAINE ORENGA DE GAFFORY

31


32

CELLAR 278 — YUKON


FRANCE

BURGUNDY

Ternand

Bernard Perrin Burgundy is home to two world famous varieties: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Pinot Noir is a capricious grape. Winemakers around the world strive to harness its potential and to emulate the wines of Burgundy. Growing conditions and centuries of know-how in Burgundy produce wines that are distinctive, elegantly perfumed and relatively light bodied yet with savoury characters and longevity.

photo — Morey-Saint-Denis is a charming village in Côte de Nuits. Il has managed to keep its soul and traditions alive.

— BURGUNDY BERNARD PERRIN

33


NEW

2007

DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP BOURGOGNE ROUGE, 2018 Pinot Noir $ 40.00

$ 240.00

2020-2023, M8 D9

Sour and bitter cherries Pot-au-feu

34

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

DOMAINE BONNARDOT, AOP CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES, 2017 Pinot Noir

A light-bodied Pinot produced in the southern Mâconnais region at Azé, it has a spicy balsamic nose with sour cherry flavours. While light in structure, it has some grip and a bitter cherry finish.

Spicy

2008

18°C

$ 54.00

$ 324.00

A complex bouquet with aromas of fraises des bois (wild strawberries), blueberries, spices and lots of vanilla oak. It is mediumto full-bodied with dark fruits, bitter cherry and chocolate all present on the palate. 2017 was the first good year after a series of vintages affected by hail, frost and drought. Made by Daniele Bonnardot from 70 to 80-year-old vines in plots at PremeauxPrissey, Comblanchien and Corgoloin in the south of the appellation. No herbicides or insecticides are used in the vineyards and all grapes were picked by hand. After a short cold maceration, the juice was naturally fermented in tank followed by malolactic fermentation in oak barrels with 20% new. It was matured a further 12 months in barrel and bottled in March 2019.

2020-2025, M7 D9 Wild strawberries, blueberries, spice

18°C

Vanilla, dark fruits, chocolate Roast quail with balsamic reduction

photo — Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand owns these vineyards in the Beaune 1er Cru appellation. This landscape is typical of Bourgogne.


2009

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND, AOP BOURGOGNE, PINOT NOIR, 2018

DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND, AOP CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES, LES PERRIÈRES, 2018 Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir $ 47.00

2010

$ 282.00

Translucent ruby in colour, Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand 2018 Bourgogne has aromas of blackcurrant, coffee and smoke. It is smooth with a fine silky texture and medium bodied with a ripe cherry finish. Vincent Désertaux makes his Bourgogne Pinot Noir from 2.32 hectares of 40-year-old vines with the aim to produce a wine ready for early drinking with no use of oak. The winery at Corgoloin is ideally situated at the juncture of the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune.

$ 60.00

$ 360.00

Les Perrières is a single large parcel of 2.6 hectares to the west of the village of Corgoloin. The 2018 has fresh red fruit aromas with bitter cherry and marzipan. On the palate it is supple with good mid-palate fruit, finishing on notes of red cherries, redcurrant, and vanilla. It was matured in oak for 12 months.

2020-2023, M8 D9 Blackcurrant, coffee

18°C

2020-2025, M6 D9 Bitter cherries, marzipan

18°C

Ripe cherries, smoky

Redcurrant, red cherry, vanilla

Herbed pork roast with fennel

Brie and pecans

— BURGUNDY BERNARD PERRIN

35


DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND, AOP CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES BLANC, 2018

2011

Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc $ 61.00

$ 366.00

This wine has an intense and appealing perfume with citrus, verbena, lime, fresh apples, nectarine and spring meadow notes. It is medium bodied and smooth with a creamy texture and flavours of passion fruit. It lingers on the palate, finishing with some bitter fruit. Predominantly Chardonnay with 30% Pinot Blanc, grapes were grown in a 1.7-hectare plot. Fermented in vat, it was then matured in oak barrels using 25% new oak for 10 months.

MIXED CASE

NEW

2012

DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS $ 67.00

$ 402.00

After a series of small crops, the 2018 harvest was the second consecutive year to produce high-quality wines. The Dubois family have been vintners in Chorey-lesBeaune since the 1800s. Jacques Dubois farms several parcels around Chorey and Savigny. Wines are all fermented with indigenous yeast and matured in oak barrels with no filtration or fining.

Two bottles each Clos Margot, Les Ratausses & Les Brunettes

2020-2023, M7 D9 Citrus, verbena, lime

6°C

Tropical fruits, [00] Mussels with basil and lemongrass

36

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

photo — Raymon Quaile has been picking grapes for over 36 years at Désertaux-Ferrand—he wouldn’t miss harvesting season for anything!


DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS, AOP CHOREY-LES-BEAUNE, CLOS MARGOT, 2018

DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS, AOP SAVIGNY-LES-BEAUNE, LES RATAUSSES, 2018

DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS, AOP ALOXE-CORTON, LES BRUNETTES, 2018 Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir

Clos Margot 2018 is a medium- to full-bodied wine with cola, spices, woody notes with figs and cooked damson fruits. It is concentrated and tightly knit needing some time to open. Decanting with aeration is recommended if it is to be drunk soon. The vineyard is close to the village of Chorey-les-Beaune and is a single plot of 18 “ouvrées” or 0.75 hectares. It was matured in barrels made of oak from the Allier and Vosges forests for 12 months.

Red forest fruits, cola and just a hint of leather comprise the nose of 2018 Les Ratausses. This is a medium-bodied wine with a supple palate and lots of spicy fruit flavours. It is smooth with nice depth and a black liquorice finish. Les Ratausses is a one-hectare plot of 50-year-old vines in the southern part of the Savigny-les-Beaune appellation. Made in the same way as the Clos Margot, it is ready for drinking earlier.

2020-2026, M6 D7 Figs, cola, damson, spices

18°C

Tightly wound and not very expressive, 2018 Les Brunettes is well balanced with a firm grippy finish and will benefit from some bottle maturation before drinking. It has restrained aromas of earth and spice which precede a supple concentrated palate. Some red cherry flavours emerge on the finish giving it a delicious freshness. Les Brunettes is a parcel of 80-year-old vines lying on the lower slope close to the village of Aloxe-Corton. Soils are deep and produce powerful wines.

2020-2026, M6 D8 Red forest fruits, hint leather

18°C

2022-2030, M6 D6 Restrained, spices

18°C

Cherries, woody

Cola, spicy fruits, black liquorice

Tight, concentrated, red cherries

Baked ham with cherry-balsamic glaze

Braised duck with cardamom and cloves

Vegetarian mushroom and squash bake

photo — This photo from 1905 shows the Dubois Family, their children and cousins getting together to harvest with wicker baskets.

— BURGUNDY BERNARD PERRIN

37


38

CELLAR 278 — YUKON


FRANCE

THE LOIRE VALLEY

Alligny-Cosne

Maison Foucher Lebrun Maison Foucher Lebrun specializes in wines from across the Loire Valley. The meandering Loire is the longest river in France at 1,012 kilometres. Rising in the Cévennes Mountains, it flows north to Orléans then westwards at which point it becomes the backdrop to a series of wine regions starting with Sancerre and Pouilly and ending with Muscade,t close to where it empties into the Atlantic Ocean. A variety of grapes and wine styles are made along it. After a mild winter, spring 2019 alternated between warm days and cooler temperatures. It was relatively dry during the growing season with a heatwave in June and again in August. Harvest in September took place when mornings were fresh with mild to warm afternoons, resulting in fresh, flavoursome wines.

— THE LOIRE VALLEY MAISON FOUCHER LEBRUN

39


2013

MUSCADET DE SÈVRE ET MAINE SUR LIE, DOMAINE DE LA BRETONNIÈRE, 2019 Melon de Bourgogne $ 27.00

$ 162.00

2014

2015

CABERNET D’ANJOU EN MIREBEAU, AOC, 2019

TOURAINE SAUVIGNON, AOC, CÉCILE LEBRUN, 2019 Sauvignon Blanc

Cabernet Franc $ 27.00

Fresh green apples, spring blossoms, fresh fennel and a yeasty character lead to a steely palate with nice mid-palate apple fruits and a saline finish. Domaine de la Bretonnière has 23 hectares of vineyards on granite schist soils. The Muscadet region constitutes the most western vineyards of the Loire Valley, close to where the river flows into the Atlantic Ocean at Saint-Nazaire. The fresh crisp white wines go perfectly with a plate of oysters.

40

6°C

$ 162.00

An off dry rosé, medium pink in colour with blackcurrant and leaf aromas. The residual sweetness gives a rich impression with lots of character. The vineyard lies on the north-east boundary of the Anjou appellation on the right bank of the Loire. Anjou was a province prior to the French Revolution and takes its name from the city of Angers which was the capital.

2020-2021, M8 D9 Blossom, yeasty, fennel

$ 28.00

$ 168.00

A characterful Sauvignon wine with floral aromas of lilies and a touch of citronella. It is soft and round, broad in structure with a lime-citrus finish. The Touraine appellation in the middle Loire extends over a large area around the town of Tours. Sauvignon vines for Cécile Lebrun are cultivated in the town of Thésée on the banks of the Cher – a tributary of the Loire – with south-west/ south-east exposition.

2020-2021, M8 D9 Leafy, blackcurrant leaf

6°C

2020-2021, M8 D9 Floral, lilies, citronella

6°C

Green apple, [00]

Dark fruits, [03]

Lime, citrus, [00]

Raw oysters with green-apple mignonette

Roasted beet salad with goat cheese and a cherry vinaigrette

Risotto with asparagus and lemon zest

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

photo — Ripening grapes in the vineyard.


2016

TOURAINE, AOC, CÉCILE LEBRUN, 2019 Gamay $ 26.00

VOUVRAY, AOC, CÉCILE LEBRUN, 2019 Chenin Blanc

$ 156.00

An intensely perfumed wine with aromas of blackcurrant juice, floral notes and coffee grinds. It is medium-bodied and supple with more fresh juicy black fruits showing through in the mouth, complemented by a hint of herbs. Gamay was grown on sandy clay soils in the commune of Oisly. 2020-2022, M8 D9 Floral, blackcurrant juice, coffee

2017

$ 32.00

$ 192.00

A medium-dry wine with honeysuckle and camomile aromas. Its sweetness is contrasted by a tangy acidity giving perfect balance. It is smooth with ripe yellow nectarine flavours and a bitter grapefruit finish giving length. Vouvray, an appellation within Touraine on the right bank of the Loire, produces some of the most distinctive Chenins in the world. Cécile Lebrun was grown in the commune of Chancay in a westfacing hillside parcel. Soils are mainly sand and gravel from the Miocene period over a flint clay subsoil.

18°C

Juicy black fruits, fresh mint Roasted chicken thighs with currant-hoisin glaze

2020-2022, M8 D9 Honeysuckle, camomile

6°C

Sweet nectarine, bitter grapefruit, [04] Bûcheron cheese and toasted walnuts

photo — Caroline Moro, winemaker, tastes a rosé wine in the cellar.

— THE LOIRE VALLEY MAISON FOUCHER LEBRUN

41


2018

CHINON, AOC, CÉCILE LEBRUN, 2019 Cabernet Franc $ 32.00

$ 192.00

2020-2023, M8 D9

Dark fruits, herbs Classic baked ziti

POUILLY FUMÉ, AOC, CÉCILE LEBRUN, 2019 Sauvignon Blanc

Lots of fresh herbs, tarragon, fresh grass and tobacco leaf are present with blackcurrant cordial and raspberry juice flavours emerging. Cécile Lebrun 2019 Chinon is medium bodied with dark fruit flavours and a savoury grippy finish. 20% of the final assemblage was matured in old oak barrels. Chinon is a red wine gem of the Touraine region, located at its western end. The area lies on the left bank of the Loire and is bisected by the Vienne River. Grapes for this wine were grown in two plots close to the town of Chinon on gravelly soils over a tufa subsoil.

Tarragon, tobacco, blackcurrant cordial

2019

$ 46.00

$ 276.00

Fresh apples, white blossoms with a hint of passion fruit, 2019 Cécile Lebrun Pouilly Fumé is supple and smooth with fresh lime flavours. It is quite light in weight yet broad in structure with a pithy citrus finish. The Pouilly Fumé appellation in the far east of the Loire Valley lies just across the river from Sancerre around the town of Pouilly-sur-Loire. Both appellations make similar dry crisp wines from Sauvignon Blanc grown on limestone and clay hills on either side of the Loire. Pouilly Fumé should not be confused with Pouilly-Fuissé from Burgundy, which is made from Chardonnay.

16°C

2020-2022, M8 D9 Fresh apples, spring blossom, passion fruit

6°C

Fresh lime, [00] Smoked salmon

42

CELLAR 278 — YUKON

photo — Freshly harvested grapes are placed in small boxes before going to the winery.


NEW

2020

CRÉMANT DE LOIRE BRUT, AOC, CÉCILE LEBRUN

PROVENCE

NEW

2021

MARINETTE, AOP CÔTES DE PROVENCE, 2019

Chenin Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay $ 35.00

$ 210.00

Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah $ 33.00

$ 198.00

Green apples and grapey aromas are typical of Chenin Blanc in this Crémant de Loire sparkling. It is creamy in texture with honeyed flavours, a deliciously crisp acidity and slight bitter citrus finish adding length. Produced using the traditional bottle fermentation, it is a blend of 50% Chenin Blanc, 25% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir which was matured for 24 months on lees. The northern geography of the Loire Valley, and the influence of the Ocean on climate, means that some years it can be difficult for grapes to ripen. Like Champagne, this led to the development of sparkling wine production which requires higher acidity and less natural sugar in the grapes.

A delicious Provence rosé which will work well as an apéritif and with food. It is pale in colour with subtle aromas and a hint of rosehip. Produced from a blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah, it is easy drinking yet has substance on the palate. Packaged in a smart “skittle,” or bowling pin shaped, bottle, it adorns any table. Provence is the home of rosé wines: their popularity has led to many other regions taking rosé seriously. Previously considered a “summer” wine, rosé is now drunk year-round. In fact, one in every three bottles of wine drunk by the French is now rosé.

2020-2021, M8 D9

2020-2021, M8 D9

Grapey, green apple

6°C

Rosehip, subtle fruits

6°C

Honey, apples, citrus pith, [02]

Vinous red fruits, silky smooth, [00]

Lightly fried calamari and citrus aioli

Lobster and Bibb lettuce salad

photo — Pruning the vines is a crucial part of growing quality grapes.

— THE LOIRE VALLEY MAISON FOUCHER LEBRUN

43


OPIMIAN SUBSCRIPTION CASES WITH 1 SIMPLE SUBSCRIPTION automatically receive 9 surprise cases of Opimian wines per year selected by Jane Masters MW, Opimian’s Master of Wine. Each case is carefully prepared by an independent winemaker from a different region. UNIQUE PREMIUM WINES EXCLUSIVE TO PROGRAM SUBSCRIBERS

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WHAT YOU GET FOR

$229

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MIXED CASES TO EXPLORE THE WORLD OF WINE

MIXED CASES TO CHALLENGE YOUR PALATE AND START YOUR CELLAR

WHAT YOU GET FOR $135 PER CELLAR OFFERING

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WHAT YOU GET FOR $171 PER CELLAR OFFERING

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