CELLAR ORDER NOV 10 - DEC 14, 2020
AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND BURGUNDY PINOT NOIR Opimian.ca
ON 280
FEATURED PRODUCERS THEIR MOST POPULAR OPIMIAN WINES
Australia
BR
GH H&L CG
BH
P14 WINES BY GEOFF HARDY GMH MERITAGE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019, LOT 2156, P15
P20 CHAPMAN GROVE WINES
P24 BERTON VINEYARDS
ATTICUS MUSEUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON CASE, LOT 2167, P23
BERTON VINEYARD WINEMAKER’S RESERVE SHIRAZ, PADTHAWAY, 2019, LOT 2169, P25
BV
New Zealand GV
NEW PRODUCER BEC HARDY WINES P8
P30 HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT FAT’N SKINNY PICKER’S CHOICE, MCLAREN VALE, 2019, LOT 2184, P31
P34 BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARD BRIAR RIDGE BIG BULLY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WRATTONBULLY, 2018, LOT 2188, P35
P38 GLOVER FAMILY VINEYARDS MASSEY DACTA SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2020, LOT 2195, P39
— Discovering the garden at Tipsy Hill. This 2.5-acre garden is considered one of South Australia’s most famous private gardens.
cover photo
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CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
Burgundy
DIRECTORS’ CUT...........................................................................P5 JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR....................................................P7 BEC HARDY WINES......................................................................P8 WINES BY GEOFF HARDY......................................................P14 BERTON VINEYARDS................................................................P24 TOP VALUE WINES...................................................................P28 HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT.....................................................P30 BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARD.......................................................P34 CELLAR UP!....................................................................................P36 GLOVER FAMILY VINEYARDS............................................. P38 SAM HARROP................................................................................ P42 Daniel Struckman.......................................................................P45 BURGUNDY PINOT NOIR.......................................................P46 Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand.............................................P46 Domaine Dubois Bernard & Fils.......................................P48 Domaine Bonnardot.................................................................P50 Domaine des Terres Gentilles.............................................P50 Domaine Thevenot-Le Brun & Fils................................... P51 Domaine Cruchandeau........................................................... P51
P46 BURGUNDY PINOT NOIR
COLLECTOR’S CORNER........................................................P54
DOMAINE BONNARDOT, AOP CÔTE DE NUITSVILLAGES, 2018, LOT 2209, P50
Cellar 280
AUSTRALIA, NEW ZEALAND AND BURGUNDY
As usual, I attended the annual Australia Trade Tasting in London in January. At that time, our concerns were wildfires raging in Australia and their impact on the forthcoming harvest. How quickly things can change.
SH
DELIVERY IS EXPECTED IN
SPRING 2021
P42 SAM HARROP SAM HARROP GRAND AMATEUR MERCHANT, HAWKE’S BAY, 2019, LOT 2198, P43
The 2020 harvest is one that will be remembered as winemakers in the Southern hemisphere found themselves having to develop and implement socialdistancing practices in the midst of receiving grapes. The vintage is a small one in Australia due to drought conditions and the impact of wildfires causing smoke taint. Yet, despite the difficulties, the wines produced are as good as ever and for New Zealand the growing season was exceptional. 2020 will also be a benchmark year for Bec Hardy as she and her husband Richard have gone it alone, committing 100% of their time to Bec Hardy Wines. At Opimian, we are very pleased to be involved in this new venture from the start. Knowing Opimian members’ passion for France, the southern hemisphere is complemented with a selection from small Burgundy producers. So, some exciting news and some tasty wines to try at a time when things can seem gloomy. JANE MASTERS MW, OPIMIAN’S MASTER OF WINE Every wine offered by Opimian is tasted and selected for its deliciousness and value by our consultant Master of Wine, Jane Masters. Jane has an in-depth knowledge of the world of wine. Her aim is to share her experience and love of wine with members in an easy and informal manner. She is one of 409 Masters of Wine worldwide and was elected Chairman of the Institute of Masters of Wine 2016-2018 by her peers.
— CELLAR 280 ONTARIO
3
EDITORIAL
Welcome to the 2021 Cellar Season Michael Lutzmann and Greg Rinehart, Opimian Co-Managing Directors
As we (Michael & Greg - Opimian’s Managing Directors), write this editorial together, we’re sitting in our respective homes and collaborating online. We can’t help but look back at the last ten months. Long gone are the days of unanswered club emails and voicemails. Our short summer and fall seasons are now over, and we all now look ahead to Canada’s colder months. 2020 has been a year that none of us will forget, and a year that has seen more than its share of changes. In parallel with your changes in everyday life, many of you will have noticed the flurry of activity at Opimian as we engage stakeholders throughout the Opimian family. We have reached out the Board, the staff, the producers and, most importantly you, the Members to bring everyone together around the joy of wine. There have never been more ways to learn about your Opimian wines and the people who make them. Through the Cellar Offerings, Vino Etcetera, social media, videos, emails, virtual tastings and the Member Service team, you have a sense of community that only a Club can provide. After a long absence, many of you were finally able to purchase a Canadian wine with the Pearl Morissette Offering in September. The success of that initiative bodes well for us to do it again with other Canadian wines. So, looking ahead, let’s talk about the 2021 Cellar Offering season. The publication in which you are reading this editorial is new. We have combined the Cellar Offering with the Vino Etcetera magazine so that the articles and recipes are all in one publication. Not only does this make your selection process more enjoyable, it also contributes to a sustainable future as we are using less paper and have removed the single-use outer plastic wrap.
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CELLAR 280 — EDITORIAL
We continue to listen to the Members, and the improvements will continue. The Masters Case, a new subscription program combining the best of Discovery and Select Plus was launched as those two programs were retired. You will also notice enhanced availability of spirits, smaller case sizes, premium offerings, lower prices, web only wines, and more new wines than ever before as we hunt for more new estates to offer Members in 2021. Looking further into the future, the team is working on Direct to Consumer (DTC) delivery, Opimian branded wines from your favourite regions, and an additional web offering next fall. You will also see more partnerships with ‘best in class’ brands similar to the recent Riedel glassware promotion, and finally, we hope, the reinstatement of in-person events. But for now, let’s enjoy Opimian’s 280th Cellar Offering as we start off the year in Australia, New Zealand and Burgundy. Pour yourself a glass of your favourite Opimian wine, sit back and read about the best wines that Jane Masters MW has found for you this time. You won’t be disappointed.
To your health, Michael & Greg
DIRECTORS’ CUT MICHAEL’S PICKS
GREG & MICHAEL’S PICKS FOR THIS CELLAR OFFERING
ATTICUS MUSEUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON CASE, LOT 2167, P23
MASSEY DACTA SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2020 LOT 2195, P39
DOMAINE DÉSERTAUXFERRAND LES PERRIÈRES, AOP CÔTE DE NUITSVILLAGES, 2019, LOT 2204, P47
GREG’S PICKS
BEC HARDY WINES SPARKLING NV, LOT 2145, P9
STRUCKMAN PINOT NOIR, CENTRAL OTAGO, 2019, LOT 2202, P45
BRIAR RIDGE STOCKHAUSEN SIGNATURE SEMILLON, HUNTER VALLEY, 2017, LOT 2192, P37
— CELLAR 280 DIRECTORS’ CUT
5
MASTER PIECE
What is a Master of Wine? Jane Masters MW is Opimian’s Master of Wine
Jane Masters MW explains.
At the end of August, the Institute of Masters of Wine announced 16 new Masters of Wine (of which three are Canadians) bringing the worldwide total to 409. Nearly 70 years after the first Master of Wine (MW) exams were set by The Vintners Company, a City of London Livery Company established by royal charter in 1363, the title of Master of Wine is recognized globally, with MWs living and working in 30 countries. Masters of Wine come in all shapes and sizes from diverse backgrounds and wine careers. Each MW has proven their understanding of all aspects of wine by passing rigorous theory and practical tasting exams and writing a research paper. I am sometimes asked the difference between a Master of Wine and a Master Sommelier. In short, it is the breadth and depth of knowledge necessary for the MW exams which require clarity of thought, writing skills and of course extensive tasting experience. Master Sommeliers are highly knowledgeable with a focus on hospitality and wine service. Preparing to sit the MW exams is hard work. Many candidates have worked through the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) exams. The highest level - WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wine - or an equivalent is one of the pre-requisites when applying to join the MW program. Having trained as an œnologist in Bordeaux, I took an alternative route and was working for a large UK retailer at the time.
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CELLAR 280 — MASTER PIECE
Studying with others who have different perspectives expands thinking and creates bonds for life. Richard Kershaw MW and I started studying for the MW exam at the same time. Richard had originally trained as a chef but found a greater love in wine and was managing a wine shop. He felt he needed to understand winemaking so he dropped out and took himself off to work harvests in various places ultimately settling in South Africa. There, he went back to school to learn chemistry and biology so that he could apply for a winemaking course. After all this he went back to the MW with success. Richard makes stunning wines and I am so pleased that Opimian Members have the opportunity to enjoy them. Another friend, Sam Harrop MW features in the current Cellar Offering 280. I first met Sam in the Hunter Valley. He was working harvest. I was on a buying trip. In between tastings, the head winemaker asked if he could introduce me to a young New Zealander who was looking for a job in the UK. I was impressed. Around the day Sam started, I learnt I had passed my MW exams. I am not sure whether that inspired Sam but some years later he became one of the youngest MWs! Sam is now one of the world’s leading winemaking consultants and lives back in Waiheke Island in New Zealand, where he makes his own wines offered through Opimian in Canada.
JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR
EVERYDAY DRINKING BERTON VINEYARD WINEMAKER’S RESERVE SHIRAZ, PADTHAWAY, 2019, LOT 2169, P25
BEC HARDY WINES SAUVIGNON BLANC, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020, LOT 2150, P11
Another Opimian partner, Michael Palij MW, of Winetraders, is a Canadian living in England. He specializes in Italian wines and has introduced Opimian to some truly special producers including the Zucchetto family, makers of premium Prosecco and Clavesana in Piemonte who featured in the recent CWEB20 offering. But I don’t want this to sound like cronyism. The very essence of an MW is to act with integrity and honesty. Indeed, on becoming a Master of Wine, we are required to sign a code of conduct to this effect and to contribute to the mission of the Institute of Masters of Wine to promote excellence, interaction and learning across the global wine community. Opimian is the only Canadian wine club to have a Consultant Master of Wine and I am honoured to be it. Using my wine network, my aim is to bring members a curated range of exclusive wines to suit all occasions and tastes whatever your budget. All the wines go through the same rigorous tasting evaluation to select those offering the best quality and value for money. I try to spread the love by sharing my experiences, the personality of each wine and the stories behind them. I really want you to enjoy Opimian wines and be inspired to discover more!
CELLARING POTENTIAL K1 BY GEOFF HARDY CHARDONNAY, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2018, LOT 2160, P15
DOMAINE BONNARDOT, L’ÂGE MÛRE, AOP BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES DE NUITS, 2018, LOT 2210, P50
— CELLAR 280 JANE’S COUPS DE COEUR
7
SOUTH AUSTRALIA NEW PRODUCER
Bec Hardy Wines MCLAREN VALE
Bec comes from a line of distinguished winemakers: the Hardy name has been synonymous with South Australian wine since the 1850s. Her great-great-great grandfather, Thomas Hardy, arrived from the UK as one of the first settlers of the McLaren Vale. After six generations, Bec is the first female member of the Hardy family to own vineyards and produce her own wines. Some Opimian members will have met Bec Hardy and her husband, Richard. While she was working for father Geoff, the couple used the opportunity of their honeymoon to do a coast-to-coast tasting tour of Canada. Since July, Bec and Richard are fully focused on Bec Hardy Wines, and we are very pleased to be involved in this new adventure from the start.
PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
— With views across the McLaren Vale wine region, Bec enjoys a glass of wine at her Tipsy Hill property.
photo
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CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
NEW
2145
BEC HARDY WINES SPARKLING NV
NEW
2144
BEC HARDY WINES SHIRAZ, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019
Colombard, Pinot Noir, Chenin Blanc $ 27.00
Shiraz $ 25.00
$ 150.00
Full of chocolate and spices with a touch of smoke and green leaf, this is a mediumbodied Shiraz. Grapes were grown mainly in the Riverland with some Langhorne Creek and Currency Creek fruit. A small amount of Petit Verdot was added, giving a firm slightly austere acidity with lingering flavours of bitter cherries and green leaf.
$ 162.00
A refreshing glass of bubbles and fairly serious in style, it is made from an unusual combination of grape varieties. It has aromas of pears, white fruits and melon with just a hint of cheese adding interest. On the palate, it has a lemon curd character with a fine creamy mousse and zesty lemon finish. Made using the Charmat method with grapes grown in the Murray-Darling and Riverland regions. 2021-2022, M8 D9 White fruits, pears
6°C
Lemon curd, melon, [SM]
12%
Lemon-dill salmon gravlax
2020-2023, M8 D9 Spicy, chocolate, green leaf
18°C
Bitter cherry
14.5%
Slow-braised ox cheek with polenta
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA BEC HARDY WINES
9
NEW
2146
NEW
BEC HARDY WINES CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon $ 25.00
2147
NEW
BEC HARDY WINES CHARDONNAY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020
Chardonnay $ 150.00
A flavoursome wine with juicy dark fruits, blueberries and black cherries. It is supple, medium bodied with a firm finish and was produced from Cabernet Sauvignon with 5% Petit Verdot and 4% Merlot with some American and French oak seasoning.
$ 25.00
2148
BEC HARDY WINES PINOT GRIS, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020
Pinot Gris $ 150.00
A supple, easy-drinking Chardonnay, pale in colour with appealing aromas of melons, fennel and spice with no use of oak.
$ 25.00
$ 150.00
A fruit cocktail of a wine, Bec’s Pinot Gris has aromas of fresh pears, lemons, bananas and green apples. It is flavoursome with medium weight on the palate and a long, tangy finish.
2021-2022, M8 D9
2021-2022, M8 D9
Melon, fennel
6°C
Fresh pears, lemon, banana
6°C
Soft stone fruits, [D]
13.5%
Fresh apples, [D]
12.5
Pizza with caramelized pear and Brie
Grilled swordfish with tomatillo-mango salsa
2020-2023, M8 D9 Dark fruits
18°C
Blueberries, black cherries
14%
Meatloaf with wild mushroom-red wine sauce
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CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
photo — Winter views across the Tipsy Hill vineyard.
CHECK OUT BEC HARDY’S PREMIUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON, PAGE 55 MESSAGE
NEW
2150
BEC HARDY WINES SAUVIGNON BLANC, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2020
Sauvignon Blanc NEW
2149
Shiraz $ 37.00
$ 222.00
2021-2023, M8 D9 Chocolate, spices
18°C
Mixed forest fruits, black cherries
15%
Juniper-coriander rubbed roast beef
photo — Bec and daughter Matilda picking Cabernet
Sauvignon grapes at the Tipsy Hill vineyard.
$ 150.00
$ 25.00
BEC HARDY WINES SHIRAZ, BAROSSA VALLEY, 2017
Mixed forest fruits, black cherries, chocolate and spices typify this Barossa Valley 2017 Shiraz. It is a relatively light, mediumbodied wine despite its 15% alcohol, a result of the mild weather throughout the growing season. Picked during the late summer of 2017, Shiraz grapes were grown in the Gomersal and Vine Vale areas in the centre of Barossa Valley. It was matured using second- and third-use American oak barrels.
A star in the lineup, Bec Hardy’s 2020 Sauvignon Blanc has aromas of gooseberries, elderflowers and lime wine gums. It is soft with nice mid-palate weight and good fruit flavours leading to a long lime and mineral finish. Unmistakably Sauvignon, this is an elegant and well-balanced wine with depth. 2021-2022, M8 D9 Lime wine gums, elderflower
6°C
Limes, grapefruit, mineral, [D]
13%
Asparagus and veg salad with citrus vinaigrette
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA BEC HARDY WINES
11
PRODUCERS’ CORNER
Meet Bec Hardy Our Newest Producer Bec Hardy Wines
A vigneron following the heritage path of a six-generation wine family. BEC HARDY WINES TIPSY HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SINGLE VINEYARD, MCLAREN VALE, 2016, LOT 2153, P55
FOR A FULL Q&A WITH BEC HARDY, VISIT OUR BLOG SECTION.
Bec Hardy and her husband, Richard Dolan, established Bec Hardy Wines in May 2015, a few weeks before their daughter Matilda was born. At the time, they were looking to acquire a vineyard in McLaren Vale and they had also started talks with Bec’s parents (at Wines by Geoff Hardy) about succession of the business. While Bec’s parents live and work at K1 in the Adelaide Hills, she and Richard have been based at the Pertaringa cellar door in McLaren Vale since 2011. The Pertaringa brand made up a majority of the Wines by Geoff Hardy wine business and with Bec’s parents in their 60s, they were looking to take a step back and focus on K1 - so it made sense for Richard and Bec to acquire the Pertaringa brand from them. On July 1, 2020, during the global Covid pandemic, Bec Hardy Wines acquired the vast majority of her dad’s business by taking over its principal brand, Pertaringa, which had just celebrated 40 years. Richard and Bec are joint Managing Directors. While Bec is responsible for
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CELLAR 280 — PRODUCERS’ CORNER
viticulture and production, Richard takes care of sales and marketing. They are supported by a multi-cultural team of four, predominantly composed of women. They can also count on the help of Matilda who joins them after kindergarten and their German shorthaired pointer who is always around greeting visitors at the cellar door. Bec draws her inspiration from her grandmother, Dr. Barbara Hardy AO (Officer of the Order of Australia), who was keen to study wine in the 1940s. Back then, the course was only open to men and it took many years before a woman was able to study wine. “I’m very lucky to have this amazing heritage stretching back 170 years and having grown up in the wine industry. There are many inspirational people in the Hardy family, not least the original Thomas Hardy who established Hardys in 1853. His determination, creative thinking and hard work led to the creation of a company that, while he still ran it, was the largest exporter of wine in Australia. By the 1980s, it was the world’s largest wine brand” states Bec. Bec’s Tipsy Hill property is home to one of the most renowned private gardens in South Australia and now encloses one of Australia’s finest Cabernet Sauvignon vineyards. In addition to making their first Tipsy Hill Cabernet Sauvignon
(coincidentally included in the current offering), they are also cultivating small parcels of vines under the Bec Hardy label with the hope this brand will grow alongside Pertaringa. As custodians of the brand, they have put an increased emphasis on building a long-term brand before passing it on to Matilda. “We’re committed to continuous improvement across every aspect of the business and an increased emphasis on greater levels of social responsibility as we grow. Our passion for nature grows every year and we continue to do all we can to save, restore and protect our environment and reduce our footprint.” As a result, Bec has been giving back through the Nature Foundation by sitting on the Board of Directors. The organization was founded in 1981 by four Adelaide business personalities, including her grandmother Dr Barbara Hardy AO. When we asked Bec what she would like Opimian Members to know about them in this new venture, she answers: “Richard and I are incredibly grateful for the opportunity my parents have given us. Working with dad really gave us a chance to learn who we wanted to be and what we stood for in the world of Australian wine. And you’ll begin to see more of what’s important to us as we take the business into the next 40 years.”
NEW
2151
NEW
BEC HARDY WINES MERLOT, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019
Merlot $ 25.00
2152
BEC HARDY WINES RIESLING, CLARE VALLEY, 2020
Riesling $ 150.00
$ 222.00
$ 37.00
Smoky dark fruit aromas with black cherries, coal and some old wood give this wine lots of appeal. This is a medium bodied wine with ripe cooked fruit flavours, menthol and raspberries. It is dense with a tight structure and firm acidity, giving some potential for cellaring. 2020-2024, M8 D9 Spicy oak, coffee
18°C
Ripe fruits, blackcurrant, blackberries
14%
Grilled lamb chops with thyme and rosemary
Tucked away approximately 150 kilometres due north of Adelaide in the Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley is renowned for Riesling. Grapes for Bec Hardy’s 2020 came from a single vineyard in Auburn at the southern end of the valley. A white wine with good fruit intensity, fresh apples, limes and other white fruits lead to a steely mineral finish. While I recommend drinking over the next couple of years, I am keen to see how it develops over time – and suspect it will last well beyond that becoming more honeyed and richer in flavour. 2021-2023, M8 D9 Fresh apples, white fruits
6°C
Lime, steely, [D]
12.5%
Fish tacos with citrus-avocado salsa
photo — Bec’s German Shorthaired Pointer and
resident Pertaringa wine dog, Churchill.
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA BEC HARDY WINES
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SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Wines By Geoff Hardy KUITPO
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CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
Geoff Hardy was one of the first viticulturists to see the potential the cool climate of the Adelaide hills had to offer. He left his family’s wine business to plant his own vineyards in the 1980s and established the first commercial vineyard in the Kuitpo region. Today his K1 wines, made by winemaker Shane Harris, are considered some of the finest singleestate wines Australia produces.
photo — Autumn colours around the K1 Lakehouse.
NEW LOWER PRICE
2155
GMH FAMILY SELECTION RED BLEND, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019
Shiraz, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Lagrein $ 24.00
2156
GMH MERITAGE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019
Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec $ 150.00
$ 25.00
$ 144.00
Each year, the precise blend of the family selection is put together by the Hardy family over dinner. The 2019 blend consists of 60% Shiraz, 26% Merlot, 9% Tannat, 2.5% Durif and 2.5% Petit Verdot. It is savoury and spicy in character with cumin seed aromas over a black fruit background, and light-medium bodied. 2021-2024, M8 D9 Cumin spices, black fruits
18°C
Quite light bodied
14.5%
Intense blackberries and violet aromas precede a light- to medium-bodied palate. It has juicy fruit flavours complemented by a firm sour acidity with some rustic chewy tannins on the finish. This wine is dominated by Petit Verdot representing 65% of the blend coming from the Limestone Coast where it ripens well each year – Petit Verdot is a late-ripening variety that needs lots of heat. This was combined with 20% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec.
Moroccan-spiced roasted pork loin
2157
GMH SHIRAZ, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019
Shiraz $ 25.00
$ 150.00
Mellow aromas of vanilla cream, cassis and thyme give lots of appeal. GMH Shiraz is a structured wine, medium bodied with a firm acidity and a black cherry and savoury finish adding length. 2021-2024, M8 D9
2021-2024, M7 D9
Mellow, vanilla cream, cassis, thyme
18°C
Wine gums, blackberries, violets
18°C
Black cherries, savoury
14%
Cranberry
14%
Smoked brisket
Lamb tagine with pomegranate couscous, 14%
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINES BY GEOFF HARDY
15
2158
GMH CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon $ 25.00
2159
K1 SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2020
Sauvignon Blanc $ 150.00
Floral aromas and lavender with a touch of soft calf leather are complemented by blackberry flavours with mineral and pencil-lead notes on the finish. This is a structured wine with firm tannins and will benefit from some time in bottle. Cabernet Sauvignon was grown in a number of regions within South Australia, each fermented separately. It was matured using older French oak hogsheads and staves.
$ 32.00
$ 192.00
A complex and elegant Sauvignon, it has delicious lime fruits and herbal aromas. Citrus flavours of lemon and lime combine with passion fruit for a lingering crisp finish. Adelaide Hills is one of Australia’s cool growing regions producing elegant and refreshing wines. K1 Sauvignon Blanc vines are the oldest in the Adelaide Hills planted by Geoff in 1987.
2021-2025, M7 D8
2021-2022, M8 D9
Lavender, leather
18°C
Lime, herbal
6°C
Blackberries, pencil lead
13.5%
Lemon, lime, passion fruit, [D]
13%
Grilled Portobello burger
Vegetable lo mein
2160
K1 BY GEOFF HARDY CHARDONNAY, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2018
Chardonnay $ 43.00
$ 258.00
Toasty oak notes complement ripe fruits to give a mellow bouquet. It was fermented in 30% French oak barrels then matured on lees for 10 months prior to bottling. It has some mineral notes and great purity of fruit. Flavoursome and distinctive, it is delicious for immediate drinking and can also be cellared for some years. 2021-2025, M7 D9 Toast, fruit, mineral
6°C
White fruits, steely finish, [D]
13%
Roasted chicken with mushrooms and herbs
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CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
photo — Maestro K1 winemaker Shane Harris in
vintage mode.
2163
K1 BY GEOFF HARDY SHIRAZ, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2018
Shiraz $ 45.00
$ 270.00
A rich and dense Shiraz while showing restraint. It is deep purple in colour with aromas of blackberries and a hint of mint; concentrated with a soft, rich attack and supple mid-palate. Flavours of dark fruits, plums and cherries lead to a firm finish. Drinking nicely now, it has great balance and the potential to be cellared some years. Grapes came from low-yielding vines planted in 1989. They were fermented in small-batch open fermenters using 20% whole bunches. The wine was matured in French oak hogsheads with 30% new for 18 months.
2161
2021-2028, M6 D7
K1 BY GEOFF HARDY NV SPARKLING, ADELAIDE HILLS
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay $ 42.00
18°C
Plums, cherries
14.5%
Smoked beef ribs with blackberry sauce
$ 252.00
Brioche and honey aromas are very appealing, with aromas of lime, custard and spices. It was produced from a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. Grapes were picked, pressed and fermented; a partial malolactic occurred adding richness. The wine was left on yeast lees with regular stirring for nine months resulting in a deliciously mellow and complex wine.
2162
K1 BY GEOFF HARDY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2018
Cabernet Sauvignon $ 45.00
$ 270.00
2021-2028, M6 D7
2021-2023, M8 D9 Yeasty, bready
6°C
Crushed blackcurrants
18°C
Mellow, brioche, custard, [D]
12.5%
Dark fruit
14.5%
Pan-seared scallops and herbed butter sauce
photo — A regular visitor, an Eastern Grey Kangaroo
bounding up the K1 Avenue driveway.
Blackberries, mint
Herb-crusted rack of lamb
Crushed blackcurrants and concentrated darkfruit flavours with a firm structure. The 2018 growing season started slowly. A good fruit set followed by cooler than average night temperatures in March and low rainfall lead to colour and flavour development in the grapes. This is a full-bodied wine which will benefit from some bottle maturation to fully express itself. It was matured for 18 months in oak with 30% new.
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINES BY GEOFF HARDY
17
JOIN US FOR OUR C280 VIRTUAL TASTINGS Having trouble deciding which wines to order from C280? Want to learn more about the winemakers you already love? Do you have burning questions to ask them? Or do you simply want to relax and “get away” for a bit behind your screen? From the comfort of your home, join us to meet the people behind the wine! Check your mailbox and our Facebook page, invites are coming soon. If you think you missed the invite, please contact us at events@opimian.ca
Throughout the Cellar Offering we’ll feature several of the winemakers (subject to change).
Bec Hardy Wines Glover Family Vineyards Berton Vineyards Sam Harrop Hastwell & Lightfoot
DON’T MISS OUT! check your inbox events@opimian.ca follow us opimianwineclubdevin
2164
HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY MIXED VARIETALS CASE
$ 40.00
$ 240.00
Geoff Hardy is a viticulturist first and foremost. He has had a hand in planting many thousands of hectares in South Australia and was always interested in trialing new and different grape varieties from around the world and identifying the most suitable clones for regional conditions. This mixed case comprises three lesser known European grapes.
MIXED CASE TWO BOTTLES EACH MONTEPULCIANO, LAGREIN & TANNAT
NEW
HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY MONTEPULCIANO, LIMESTONE COAST, 2019
Montepulciano
HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY LAGREIN, LIMESTONE COAST/ADELAIDE HILLS, 2018
Tannat
Lagrein
Intense in aroma and deep in colour with blackcurrants, black wine gums and floral notes. The 2019 Montepulciano is dense and concentrated on the palate. Smooth initially, it develops a grainy texture with lots of fruity flavours and a chewy bitter cherry finish. Grapes were grown on Geoff’s Wirrega Vineyards in Limestone Coast in the southeast of South Australia.
Savoury aromas are complemented by those of raspberries and cherries. Hand Crafted Lagrein is a full-bodied red with dark fruits and rustic chewy tannins. Lagrein, a variety from the north of Italy, was grown at Wirrega in Limestone Coast and the K1 vineyard in Adelaide Hills. Grapes were fermented in small open fermenters and the wine matured for a lengthy 21 months in seasoned French oak.
2021-2024, M7 D9 Blackcurrant wine gum, floral
18°C
Fruity, bitter cherries
14%
Slow-roasted pork shoulder with balsamic and dried plums
HAND CRAFTED BY GEOFF HARDY TANNAT, ADELAIDE HILLS, 2018
2021-2026, M7 D7 Savoury, raspberry, cherry
18°C
Fresh blackcurrant, juicy berry fruits
14%
Lavender, blueberries, spearmint and fresh earth combine to create an interesting bouquet. On the palate, it is smooth and mouth-filling with a dense grainy texture. It was matured for 24 months in seasoned French oak barrels and hogsheads. Tannat is historically grown in the southwest of France to produce Madiran wines. 2021-2024, M7 D9 Lavender, spearmint, blueberries
18°C
Earthy, savoury
14.5%
Grilled boerewors sausage
Venison with redcurrant sauce
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA WINES BY GEOFF HARDY
19
WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Chapman Grove MARGARET RIVER
20
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
The Margaret River region in Western Australia lies south of Perth with vineyards close to long stretches of sandy beaches and the ocean – a surfer’s paradise. The climate is cool with the lowest average mean temperature of all Australia’s wine regions. It has high rainfall mainly falling during the winter months to replenish the soils. It is here at Rosa Glen that Ron Fraser chose to establish Chapman Grove. Ron cultivates 30+ hectares of vines with wines made by Bruce Dukes.
2165
CHAPMAN GROVE SAUVIGNON BLANC SEMILLON, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET RIVER, 2018
Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon $ 35.00
$ 210.00
Intense aromas of green leaf, gooseberries and greengages with limes, curry leaves and fennel: the same flavours show on the palate creating a flavoursome and distinctive wine. 2018 was a near perfect vintage in Margaret River: rainfall in winter, ideal conditions during bloom and no heat spikes in summer. 2021-2022, M8 D9 Greengage, green leaf
6°C
Lime, fennel, [D]
13%
Mild Thai green curry with lemongrass and Jasmine rice
NEW
2166
THE LONE QUINCE 1925 SHIRAZ, ESTATE GROWN, MARGARET RIVER, 2018
Shiraz $ 30.00
$ 180.00
A succulent medium-bodied wine with mulberries, fresh grass and red cherry flavours. It is easy drinking with a nice bitter fruit finish adding length. It was matured nine months with French oak. 2021-2023, M8 D9 Mulberry, fresh grass
18°C
Red and bitter cherries
14%
Seared kangaroo fillets with raspberry gastrique
— WESTERN AUSTRALIA CHAPMAN GROVE
21
DID YOU KNOW?
King of Cabernet Sauvignon | Margaret River By Teresa MacDonald, Sommelier, MBA
Situated on the coastline of one of the greatest surfing beaches in the world, known for its gigantic, even hypnotic waves, lies this world class wine region. Known as “little Bordeaux”, Margaret River has unusually close climatic conditions to Bordeaux, but with more reliable summer sunshine, less spring frost and hail and a long dry ripening season. It is this warm maritime climate, cooled by ocean breezes and the unique combination of climate and soil that produces grapes of purity and finesse. They have the luxury of strong seasonal consistency between vintages with perfect ripeness most years. The vines are on original rootstocks not impaired by phylloxera. They use unique heritage clones which create world-class vineyards requiring minimal intervention and a distinctive Margaret River style of Cabernet Sauvignon. The average price of grapes across Australia is $664/ton, however, Margaret River grapes command an average of $1465/ton. Vines were planted as early as 1829 but the areas isolation and limited population stifled the industries growth until as late as the 1980’s. Today, they produce excellent Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Merlot. You will also find classic Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Chardonnay with some Chenin Blanc and Verdelho available as well.
22
CELLAR 280 — DID YOU KNOW?
Only in Margaret River, one of the newest (and smallest) fine wine regions in the world, can you go surfing before you start work at a winery.
While Margaret River has only 2% of Australia’s total crush, they boast having 20% of the country’s fine wines. There is no doubt that this region produces much more than their fair share of top-quality wines, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon. The style is medium bodied, perfumed, elegant, with fine tannins and crisp acidity. Beautifully fruit forward flavours of cassis/black currant, dark berries, red currants, cedar, and bay leaf shine through with finesse, elegance, and longevity. For many years, Coonawarra has been the undisputed King of Cabernet in Australia. Now, many argue that Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon is even better – the new King. In just 50 years, Margaret River has become one of the top wine regions, not only in Australia but the world. Their Cabernet Sauvignon will rival not only those of Coonawarra but the best of Bordeaux. Warm days, cool nights, oceanic breezes produce fine wines of defined varietal characteristics and balanced acidity. In my 20 + visits to Australia, Margaret River is the only major wine region in Oz that I have not yet been to. It is closer to Singapore, Bangkok, and Hong Kong than any of the rest of Australia. From my sister’s home in Brisbane it is 4500
kilometres away and it is about 3000 kilometers from the main wine regions in South Australia. It is one of the most geographically isolated wine regions in the world, with ancient soils and a unique biodiversity, with 80% of its plant species found nowhere else in the world. In this Cellar Offering we have wines from Chapman Grove Wines, founded by Ron Fraser in 1997. The winemaker understands the unique soils and climate and believes strongly in sustainable farming practices. Absolutely anything from this winery is well worth a try. Enjoy their Cabernet Sauvignon with steak or lamb, robust roasted vegetables, strong cheeses, or dark chocolate. These wines are best with good quality food, simply prepared. Let Margaret River wine shine and it will enhance the food.
VERTICAL CASE 2167
ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MARGARET RIVER, 2013
ATTICUS MUSEUM CABERNET SAUVIGNON CASE
$ 68.00
$ 408.00
Margaret River in Western Australia has a climate closest to that of Bordeaux and is very suited to varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon. Atticus is the premium range produced by Ron Fraser at Chapman Grove and named after Atticus Finch from To Kill a Mockingbird. Only small volumes are produced from the best plots and highest quality grapes. Wines are matured in French oak for 18 months with approximately 50% new oak and 50% one-year-old barrels.
ATTICUS CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MARGARET RIVER, 2014
Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon
An intensely perfumed wine with aromas of grass, potpourri, blackcurrants, and undergrowth. It has a soft, supple palate with a powdery texture and flavours of violets and plums leading to a grainy, chalky finish. 2021-2026, M7 D8 Grass, pot pourri, smoke, blackcurrant
18°C
Violets, plums, blackcurrant
13.5%
18-month Beemster Classic Gouda with smoked almonds
Intense, fresh blackcurrant aromas are followed by a succulent palate with blackberries, violets and vanilla flavours. The 2014, considered to be one of the best vintages ever in Margaret River, is an elegant wine with layers of texture. I loved this wine when tasted some years ago and, if anything, it seems more youthful. It is medium bodied, vibrant and should continue to develop nicely. 2021-2025, M7 D9 Blackcurrants, violets
18°C
Blackberry, vanilla, fresh fruits
13.5%
Bone-in ribeye with balsamic red-wine glaze.
THREE BOTTLES EACH 2013 & 2014
— WESTERN AUSTRALIA CHAPMAN GROVE
23
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Berton Vineyards NEW SOUTH WALES, YENDA AND HIGH EDEN Bob Berton and his wife Cherie purchased their first block of land in the mid-1990s and planted vines at 450 metres in the High Eden. Some years later, the opportunity to purchase the winery in Yenda, previously owned by Southcorp, was too good to miss leading Bob and Cherie to found the company. Berton Vineyards sources grapes from a wide area for winemaker James Ceccato to make a range of distinctive award-winning wines.
PRODUCER FOR THIS CELLAR
24
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
photo — Harvesting Berton’s Eden Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon in 2019.
2168
BERTON VINEYARD THE BONSAI, HIGH EDEN, 2018
Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 55.00
$ 330.00
2169
BERTON VINEYARD WINEMAKER’S RESERVE SHIRAZ, PADTHAWAY, 2019
Shiraz $ 27.00
$ 162.00
A tremendous wine for the price, it is a vibrant purple colour with aromas of eucalyptus, red and black cherries, crushed blackberries and black peppercorns. It is medium bodied with a supple juicy palate, easy drinking yet satisfying with good depth of flavour. Shiraz grown in Padthaway was harvested at night and transported to the winery in Yenda – some 700 kilometres. This is delicious to drink now but will also keep some years. 2021-2024, M8 D9 Eucalyptus, crushed blackberries, black pepper
18°C
Red and black cherries, savoury
14.5%
Steak au poivre
The Bonsai vineyard was planted by hand by Bob and Cherie in a remote spot up in the High Eden in 1997. So named because at the time of planting there was no access to water for irrigation; hence, the vines struggled to survive and to establish themselves and looked like dwarf plants. 2018 The Bonsai is a rich concentrated wine with dark, ripe fruit aromas of blueberries and blackcurrants complemented by a pencil-lead edge. It is medium bodied with succulent fruit flavours mid-palate, a grainy texture with emerging flavours of savoury mint, vanilla and blackcurrant. A drought year, the dam almost but not quite dry, grapes were picked on April 11, a few weeks earlier than usual but with a much smaller crop. It was matured in a combination of new and old French and American oak barrels. 2021-2028, M6 D8 Blueberries, blackcurrant, pencil lead
18°C
Mint, savoury, blackcurrant, vanilla
14.5%
Braised venison with chocolate-blackcurrant sauce
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA BERTON VINEYARDS
25
NEW LOWER PRICE
2170
NEW LOWER PRICE
BARREN JACK SAUVIGNON BLANC, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2020
Sauvignon Blanc $ 18.00
2171
BARREN JACK PINOT GRIGIO, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2020
2172
Pinot Grigio $ 108.00
A refreshingly crisp white with lemon, lime and fresh green apple flavours. It is light in style.
$ 18.00
BARREN JACK SHIRAZ CABERNET, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2020
Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon $ 108.00
$ 18.00
A subtle wine with fresh apples, pears and pear drop aromas. It is light and crisp on the palate. Pinot Grigio grapes were grown in the dry Riverina region.
2021-2022, M8 D9
$ 108.00
The addition of Cabernet Sauvignon gives a wine with more weight and a bit more staying power. Barren Jack Shiraz Cabernet has aromas of black cherry and olives, a supple mid-palate leads to quite a firm acidity on the finish.
2021-2022, M8 D9
2021-2023, M8 D9
Lemon, lime, green apple
6°C
Apples, pears
6°C
Black cherry, black olive
18°C
Crisp lemon acidity, [D]
12%
White fruits, [D]
12%
Supple with firm finish
14%
Char-grilled squid with pesto
26
NEW LOWER PRICE
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
Spring vegetable risotto
Braised duck tacos with pico de gallo
photo
— Berton’s Eden Valley Chardonnay vineyard.
DISCOVER MORE BERTON VINEYARDS WINES ONLINE, LOTS 2174 - 2177
NEW LOWER PRICE
2173
BARREN JACK SHIRAZ, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2020
Shiraz $ 108.00
$ 18.00
A light-bodied, flavoursome red with aromas of ripe and cooked red berry fruits and raspberry jam. These are complemented with savoury notes on the palate and a touch of oak. Shiraz grapes were picked at the beginning of March – just before the Coronavirus lock down.
2021-2023, M8 D9 Fresh and cooked red berries, oak
18°C
Raspberry jam, savoury
14%
Barbecued lamb kebabs with cherry basting sauce
— Chief winemaker James Ceccato examining Cabernet Sauvignon grapes grown at Yenda in the Riverina.
photo
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA BERTON VINEYARDS
27
AUSTRALIA
2179
BABINGTON BROOK CHARDONNAY, WO SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2020
Chardonnay $ 15.00
$ 180.00
A soft easy drinking Chardonnay with flavours of melon, pears and cream. 2021-2022, M8 D9 Ripe fruit, melon, cream
6°C
Pears, spice, [D]
13%
Chicken korma
Paul Sapin, run by Thierry Coulon, specializes in sourcing great value wines from around the world.
2180
BABINGTON BROOK SHIRAZ, WO SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2020
Shiraz $ 15.00
WEEKNIGHT DINNERS WILL NEVER BE BORING WITH THESE WINES!
A light bodied Shiraz with plummy fruits with a hint of leather. It is soft and supple with jammy flavours and a bitter cherry finish. 2021-2023, M8 D9 Plums, leather
18°C
Bitter cherry
13.5%
Charcuterie plate
28
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
$ 180.00
TOP VALUE WINES FOR YOUR EVERYDAY DRINKING
NEW ZEALAND
2181
JAMES THOMPSON SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2020
NEW
2182
JAMES THOMPSON PINOT NOIR, NEW ZEALAND, 2020
Sauvignon Blanc $ 20.00
$ 240.00
Typical Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, it is pale in colour with lots of flavour. Aromas of gooseberries and limes lead to a smooth palate brimming with tropical passionfruit and mango fruits, and a sour lemon and lime finish.
Pinot Noir $ 26.00
$ 156.00
A light to medium bodied Pinot with red fruit aromas and flavours of cranberry, redcurrants and sour cherries.
2021-2022, M8 D9
2021-2023, M8 D9
Gooseberry, lime
6°C
Red fruits
16°C
Mango, passionfruit, lemon, lime, [D]
13%
Cranberries, cherries
13.5%
Curried scallops
Beet salad with crumbled Feta cheese
— CELLAR 280 TOP VALUE WINES
29
SOUTH AUSTRALIA
Hastwell & Lightfoot MCLAREN VALE
30
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
Hastwell & Lightfoot is one of McLaren Vale’s most exciting and innovative winegrowers. They planted 16 hectares of vines in the deep sands of McLaren Vale’s Foggo Road in 1988. Today they continue to push their winegrowing frontiers. The winery is now under the guidance of next generation family members, with James Hastwell as the winemaker and his cousin Kishan Sidhu as General Manager. Their youthful exuberance is evident in the innovation and development of H&L’s wines through new varieties, new livery, and a new passion to showcase their wines.
NEW LOWER PRICE
2184
FAT’N SKINNY PICKER’S CHOICE, MCLAREN VALE, 2019
Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Shiraz, Cabernet Franc $ 24.00
$ 144.00
A relatively light, medium-bodied wine with dried fruits and potpourri aromas.
NEW
2183
FAT’N SKINNY THE RED FURY TEMPRANILLO, GARNACHA, MCLAREN VALE, 2018
Tempranillo, Garnacha $ 28.00
$ 168.00
A restrained wine with more savoury fruits, smoke and black cherry flavours, Red Fury is produced from a blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha. Matured 12 months in French and American oak. 2021-2022, M8 D9
2021-2023, M8 D9
Savoury
18°C
Potpourri, dried fruits
18°C
Smoke, black cherries
14%
Black fruits
13.5%
Paella
photo — Kishan Sidhu, H&L’s general manager, in his
Fat’n Skinny branded shirt.
Australian BBQ chicken
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT
31
FOOD
Australian BBQ Chicken Enjoy this juicy chicken with a slightly chilled bottle of Fat’n Skinny Red Fury, courtesy of Will Doak, Head Chef at Orso Kensington in South Australia.
Ingredients
Directions
• 1 whole free-range chicken, butterfly cut (or substitute with 1.75 lb [800 g] pork tenderloin)
1. In stainless bowl or non-reactive container large enough to fit chicken, mix all ingredients for marinade. Add whole chicken.
Marinade:
2. Massage chicken with marinade, ensuring it is completely covered.
• 1 cup (200 ml) olive oil • 2 tbsp (30 ml) smoked paprika • 2 tbsp (30 ml) honey • 1 tbsp (15 ml) chilli flakes • 1 tbsp (15 ml) dried oregano • 4 garlic cloves, crushed • Zest and juice of 2 lemons • 1 tbsp (15 ml) soy sauce
3. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and leave to work its magic in refrigerator overnight (about 8 hrs) 4. Remove chicken from refrigerator 2 hours before cooking. 5. Place skin-side up onto grill. Instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of thigh near bone should read 165ºF. 6. For ultimate flavour and juiciness, brush extra marinade rub over chicken as it cooks. 7. Carve, shred or tear chicken up and drizzle olive oil on top. Serve with fresh seasonal salad.
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CELLAR 280 — FOOD
FAT’N SKINNY THE RED FURY TEMPRANILLO, GARNACHA, MCLAREN VALE, 2018, LOT 2183, P55
2185
HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MCLAREN VALE, 2017
2186
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc $ 36.00
$ 216.00
A medium- to full-bodied Cabernet, it has spicy fruits, blackberries and black cherries with incense, smoke and chocolate. A smoky, almost medicinal character – think Islay malt whisky – comes out in the glass, complemented by a tart, sour cherry finish. It can be drunk now but should mellow with some more bottle age. A touch of Cabernet Franc was added to the final blend. The wine matured in French and American oak for 22 months then bottled in December, 2019.
HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT SANDS OF TIME SHIRAZ, MCLAREN VALE, 2019
Shiraz $ 40.00
DISCOVER H&L’S SANDS OF TIME VERTICAL CASE ONLINE, LOT 2187
$ 240.00
Named after the deep sandy soils in McClaren Vale which built up over millennia as prevailing westerly winds dumped coastal sand into the vale. The dunes are located 10 kilometres from the coast and the beautiful sandy beaches and St. Vincent’s Gulf. Each year, Hastwell & Lightfoot identify the best plot of Shiraz to produce their Sands of Time. Dark fruits, grass, black olives and chocolate are all present in this concentrated wine which is medium bodied with a fine texture and grippy finish. 2021-2027, M6 D7 Grass, black olive, floral
18°C
Chocolate, dark fruits
14%
Grilled Turkish beef kofte kebabs
2021-2025, M7 D9 Spices, black cherries, blackberries, incense
18°C
Spicy, smoky fruits
14%
Texas chili
— Sulphur-crested cockatoos taking a rest at H&L.
photo
— SOUTH AUSTRALIA HASTWELL & LIGHTFOOT
33
AUSTRALIA
Briar Ridge Vineyard MOUNT VIEW, HUNTER VALLEY NEW SOUTH WALES Jaclyn Davis’s father, a geologist and oil explorer, bought Briar Ridge Vineyard in the Mount View region of the Lower Hunter Valley as his first foray into wine in the 1980s. The Davis family now own vineyards in Orange and Wrattonbully. Jaclyn is owner and general manager of Briar Ridge; her brother has responsibility for other regions. The winemaking team has a star lineup which includes Hunter Valley living legend Karl Stockhausen, consultant Gwyn Olsen, Andrew Ling and Alex Beckett.
34
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
2188
Intense mulberries, sloes, blackberries and cooked forest fruits lead to a succulent palate. Big Bully 2018 is medium to full bodied with a supple mid-palate and juicy fruit acidity. Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from selected parcels were grown on fertile red clay soils over limestone typical of Wrattonbully. A severe frost in November 2017 meant a much reduced crop in 2018 producing concentrated fruit flavours. Despite being matured in new and one-year-old French oak barrels for 16 months, the wine is not overtly oaky – a reflection of the concentration of fruit.
BRIAR RIDGE BIG BULLY CABERNET SAUVIGNON, WRATTONBULLY, 2018
Cabernet Sauvignon $ 44.00
$ 264.00
2021-2026, M7 D9 Mulberries, sloe, blackberries
18°C
Cooked forest fruits
14.5%
Port-braised red cabbage
NEW
2190 2189
BRIAR RIDGE ROSÉ, MERLOT, ORANGE, 2020
BRIAR RIDGE WINEMAKER’S SELECTION CABERNET SAUVIGNON, ORANGE, 2016
Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot $ 31.00
$ 31.00 $ 186.00
$ 186.00
A textural wine, pale baby-pink in colour with sherbet, strawberry and strawberry leaf flavours, it has a fine creamy feel in the mouth and long red berry finish. Merlot grapes were grown at 750 metres in Central Ranges of New South Wales in the Orange region. A short skin contact was followed by fermentation using an aromatic yeast.
Deliciously ripe and ready for drinking, blueberries, crushed raspberries, blackcurrants and floral notes combine with a touch of fresh hay. This is a mediumbodied wine with structure, nutmeg flavours and some firm tannin on the finish. Situated approximately 270 kilometres west of Sydney, the terrain and soils of the Orange region are dominated by the extinct Mount Canobolas volcano.
2021-2022, M8 D9
2021-2024, M7 D9
Strawberry, sherbet
6°C
Crushed raspberries, blueberries, floral
18°C
Red berries, creamy, [D]
13%
Blackcurrant, nutmeg
14%
Fried cauliflower with sweet chili sauce
Biltong with fig chutney
— AUSTRALIA BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARDS
35
CELLAR UP! WINES TO SHAPE YOUR CELLAR
While many of us Opimian Members simply consume our wines as they arrive, we are getting an increasing number of questions around building a cellar. A “cellar” doesn’t necessarily mean an actual temperature-controlled space for wine, but a selection of wine to maintain and build as our fascination with it grows. It is always a good idea to balance your cellar with several styles of wine. While you’ll obviously want more bottles of your favourite styles, there is often a need for something outside your own taste. Guests don’t always share your palate and will want something other than that full-bodied red that you always turn to. You might host or attend a dinner that would be better suited to something from the ‘other shelf’ of your chosen wine storage area. To help you in your decision-making, here are examples of the different styles of wine and a choice or two from this Offering from each style.
SPARKLING Pairs with anything, celebrations, romance BEC HARDY WINES SPARKLING NV, LOT 2145, P9
LIGHT WHITE White/light fish, sipping on its own BARREN JACK SAUVIGNON BLANC, EDENGATE, SOUTH EASTERN AUSTRALIA, 2020, LOT 2170, P26
FULL BODY WHITE Poultry, mild cheeses, pork MASSEY DACTA CHARDONNAY, MARLBOROUGH, 2020, LOT 2196, P41
AROMATIC OR SWEET WHITE Dessert, rich foods like foie gras BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARD NV LIQUEUR MUSCAT, HUNTER VALLEY, LOT 2193, P54
ROSÉ Most appetizers, sipping on its own, the back deck BRIAR RIDGE ROSÉ, MERLOT, ORANGE, 2020, LOT 2189, P35
LIGHT RED Many pastas, pork, poultry, sipping on its own STRUCKMAN PINOT NOIR, CENTRAL OTAGO, 2019, LOT 2202, P45
MEDIUM RED Versatile; many meats without heavy sauces, casseroles FAT’N SKINNY THE RED FURY TEMPRANILLO, GARNACHA, MCLAREN VALE, 2018, LOT 2183, P31
FULL BODY RED Heavy stews, many game meats, lamb, strong cheeses, even dessert GMH CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SOUTH AUSTRALIA, 2019, LOT 2158, P16
36
CELLAR 280 — CELLAR UP!
THE STOCKHAUSEN RANGE is named after Karl Stockhausen, the “Hunter Valley Living Legend”. Karl is highly revered for his impact on the region, his openness to sharing expertise and for the wines he made going back to the 1960s. Born in Hamburg, he moved to Australia in his early twenties where he taught himself winemaking and sought out mentors in the industry from which to learn. Stockhausen contributed to revitalizing the Hunter Valley by planting new vineyards, building modern wineries and producing great wines. Karl, who celebrated his 90th birthday this year, has been a consultant to Briar Ridge for 25 years.
NEW
2192
BRIAR RIDGE STOCKHAUSEN SIGNATURE SHIRAZ, HUNTER VALLEY, 2017
Shiraz $ 48.00
NEW
2191
BRIAR RIDGE STOCKHAUSEN SIGNATURE SEMILLON, HUNTER VALLEY, 2017
Semillon $ 42.00
$ 252.00
2021-2023, M7 D9 Floral, magnolia blossom, lemon
6°C
Lime, citrus, [D]
10%
Lobster roll with lemony mayo
There is something very special about Hunter Valley Semillon and its unique style. When young, these white wines – light, crisp and refreshing – have the ability to develop over many years becoming almost Burgundian in style with toasty notes and a syrupy richness. All the more surprising when then alcohol level is a mere 10% and there is no use of oak. Stockhausen Signature Semillon 2017 is starting to show some complexity while remaining youthful. It has intense aromas of magnolia blossom, lanolin and fresh lemons. It is smooth with a firm lime, citrus acidity and persistent flavours – ready to enjoy now; or, if you prefer a more toasty and richer style, it will mature.
$ 288.00
While Shiraz is ubiquitous with Australian wine, the traditional style produced in the Hunter Valley is more restrained and linear rather than big round fruit. Stockhausen Signature Shiraz 2017 has chocolate and raspberry aromas offset by mineral graphite notes. It has quite a light mid-palate followed by a tangy acidity with a long grippy finish. Grown at Mount View, it is a blend of different blocks: Dairy Hill block and Red Hill block sitting on opposite slopes on either side of the vineyard. It was matured in large French oak casts with around 35% new oak. 2021-2024, M8 D9 Raspberry, chocolate, graphite
18°C
Tangy, mineral finish
14%
Dark chocolate mousse
— AUSTRALIA BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARDS
37
NEW ZEALAND MASSEY DACTA
Glover Family Vineyards MARLBOROUGH
38
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
The Glover family are grape growers at Dillon’s Point in Marlborough, three kilometres from the sea along the banks of the Opawa River. They have been vine growers since Owen Glover converted his dairy farm to vineyards in the late-1980s. His eldest son Ben is winemaker and runs the company. Growing up in rural New Zealand, one of Ben’s first memories was the family’s big red tractor - Massey-Ferguson but which was named by the kids the “Massey Dacta”.
photo — Ben Glover pruning the Chardonnay grapes in
the vineyard.
2194
MASSEY DACTA PINOT GRIS, MARLBOROUGH, 2020
MASSEY DACTA SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2020
Sauvignon Blanc
Pinot Gris $ 26.00
2195
$ 156.00
Fresh apples, ripe pears and other white fruits with spicy aromas precede a supple, easy palate with a touch of residual sweetness counterbalanced by natural acidity. The wine was part fermented in tank and part in old French oak to add extra texture. The two components were blended in June and will be bottled in December.
$ 26.00
$ 156.00
A medium-bodied, flavoursome Sauvignon Blanc with good lime and gooseberry intensity and some flinty notes. It is smooth with more lemon and passion fruit on the palate. The grapes came from two of the family’s vineyards on the Wairau Plains. It was a long, hot summer in 2020 leading to an early start and good conditions for harvest.
2021-2022, M8 D9 Fresh apples, ripe pears
6°C
White fruits, [D]
13%
Moule frites with crème fraîche
2021-2022, M8 D9 Gooseberry, lime, flint
6°C
Lemon, passion fruit, [D]
12.5%
Frutti di mare salad
— NEW ZEALAND GLOVER FAMILY VINEYARDS
39
WINE TOURISM
Escape to Marlborough By Kevin Mintenko and Simon Litherland
Kevin and Simon are based in New Zealand where they work in the wine industry.
Simon and I had the opportunity to be Area Representatives for Opimian until December 2019, when we resigned our posts to make the move to New Zealand. We are very excited to have the chance to contribute again! We were both drawn to New Zealand to be closer to family, and took the opportunity to escape our desk jobs and transition into a more hands-on role in the wine industry, with our first harvest being the very unusual 2020 vintage. Grapes are grown almost from tip to tip in New Zealand, and to truly appreciate the wines of this beautiful country, one needs to understand a bit more about its climate and geography. For such a small country, there is a huge diversity in terroir, and thus a huge diversity in both grape varietals planted, as well as in the wine flavours themselves from region to region. However, because the country is so small, producers are able to easily grow grapes in two or more regions and transport them to a single production facility, and bottle them as one label. Sauvignon Blanc is synonymous with New Zealand wine, so you would expect it to play a big part in the industry here, and you’d be right. Sauvignon Blanc accounts for more than 60% of the total plantings in the country, and more than 250 million litres are exported each year.
40
CELLAR 280 — WINE TOURISM
There is definitely more than one kind of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. For example, most people are familiar with the big, aromatic, tropical fruit bomb from Marlborough, however this only paints a picture of only one side of this diverse region; the often exported, mass produced side. Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc can also be quite savoury, mineral and very elegant. Some producers also use oak in a very integrated and refined way; these styles tend to be used by smaller artisan, boutique wineries, driven by the terroir, rather than market demands. These are often single vineyard expressions, and tell the tale of the growing season. Needless to say, quite a few of these boutique expressions of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc have captured our hearts (We served one as part of our wedding dinner. We also served the Sam Harrop Cedalion Chardonnay…. But that is another article entirely!) Marlborough is a paradise of wine! It is staggering to contemplate the sheer area under vine here, and wine is undoubtedly the major industry in the region, directly employing over 10% of Marlborough residents. The region buzzes with the seasons and you can’t help but be caught up in the excitement all year round, watching the vines transform during their
yearly cycle. No matter what time of year you visit, there is always something to see in the vineyards, and many restaurants and tasting rooms to find your own slice of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc perfection! If you are still looking for an excuse to visit, there is nothing more magnificent than enjoying the dramatic skies; from gorgeous sunrises, to stunning sunsets. Blenheim, the major urban centre in the region, is the sunniest place in New Zealand. There are lots of rental properties to be found nestled in the many vineyards, so you can truly feel like you have escaped. Once the sun goes down the skies come alive again, with clear views of the Milky Way overhead.
MASSEY DACTA SAUVIGNON BLANC, MARLBOROUGH, 2020, LOT 2195, P39
see | The stunning skies, framed by the dramatic hills of the Wairau Valley, at sunrise, sunset and at night. visit | The Wine Station. This converted train station is a mecca for Marlborough wine tasting and learning. tasting room | Rock Ferry Wines – a small boutique winery tasting room with exceptional wines. drink | Everything! Find your favourite style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc . read | First Big Crush by Eric Arnold. Talks about the excitement of harvest, and mentions lots of producers that still exist in Marlborough.
2196
MASSEY DACTA CHARDONNAY, MARLBOROUGH, 2020
Chardonnay $ 28.00
$ 168.00
Tasted as a tank sample, Ben is planning to put this through malolactic fermentation which will add more buttery richness and make the wine more in line with the style of the 2018 offered last year. For the time being, it has a slightly leesy character on the nose, and delicious lemon and passion fruit flavours with a grapefruit-pith finish.
2197
MASSEY DACTA PINOT NOIR, MARLBOROUGH, 2020
Pinot Noir $ 30.00
$ 180.00
Brimming with red fruit flavours, this is a super smooth Pinot, medium bodied with red cherry finish. A mix of Pinot Noir clones cultivated on hillside spots, grapes were fermented in open-top fermenters with regular hand plunging then the wine matured in barrel. 2021-2023, M8 D9
2021-2024, M8 D9
Leesy, passion fruit
6°C
Ripe cherries, Ribena
16°C
Lemon, grapefruit, [D]
13%
Red fruits
13%
Risi e bisi (rice and peas)
Grilled salmon with Ribena-Dijon glaze
— NEW ZEALAND GLOVER FAMILY VINEYARDS
41
NEW ZEALAND
Sam Harrop HAWKE’S BAY
New Zealander Sam Harrop MW grew up near Waiheke Island, where he got his first wine industry job. After years residing in the UK and globetrotting the world’s wine regions, he returned to Waiheke with his young family making it his base. Sam is a driving force in the world of wine: as well as making his own wines and being a great ambassador of New Zealand wines, as a Master of Wine, he helps many vignerons around the world to excel. On New Zealand’s North Island, Hawke’s Bay is a wide bay on the east coast protected from northwesterlies by mountain ranges. It is New Zealand’s most historic wine region – and also its warmest with climate parameters similar to the Médoc in Bordeaux, albeit a little cooler (hence the suitability for, and success of, Cabernet Franc). Soils vary widely, and recently the full potential of subregions such as Gimblett Gravels and Bridge Pa, featured in this Offering, have been fully appreciated.
42
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
2198
SAM HARROP GRAND AMATEUR MERCHANT, HAWKE’S BAY, 2019
Cabernet Franc $ 64.00
$ 384.00
Bright fruits, mulberries, raspberries and jammy aromas lead to a smooth, lush palate. On the lighter side of medium bodied, it has flavours of plums, damson jam and blueberries with supple tannins, a velvet texture and cedary notes. Matured in a combination of old and new 300-litre hogshead barrels from the renowned Ermitage Cooperage, the oak is seamlessly integrated with the fruit. 2021-2025, M6 D8 Jammy fruits, mulberries, raspberries
18°C
Blueberries, plums
13%
Game terrine with juniper berries
2199
SAM HARROP GRAND AMATEUR WATCHMAKER, HAWKE’S BAY, 2019
Chardonnay $ 64.00
2021-2025, M7 D9 Malted biscuit, toast, pineapple
6°C
Fresh lemon, mineral flint, [D]
13.5%
Sage-butter gnocchi
— Sam Harrop picking grapes for his premium wines.
photo
$ 384.00
The 2019 Grand Amateur Watchmaker Chardonnay has delicious malted biscuit, toast and fruit aromas. It is complex and mellow with grapefruit and pineapple fruits emerging. This is a supple medium-bodied wine, restrained in nature with fresh lemon flavours and a long flinty mineral finish. Grapes were grown on the Howell Vineyard under superb growing conditions. They were picked by hand on March 15, 2019, and whole-bunch pressed. Traditional Burgundian yeasts completed fermentation in oak, and the wine was matured in barrel until late February, 2020.
— NEW ZEALAND SAM HARROP
43
NEW
2200
NEW
SAM HARROP OMAHU SYRAH, HAWKE’S BAY, 2017
Syrah $ 69.00
$ 414.00
2021-2026, M7 D9 Incense, chocolate, black cherry
18°C
Vanilla, black cherries and cream, redcurrants
12%
Smokey cumin and paprika carnitas
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
SAM HARROP BRIDGE PA CABERNET FRANC, HAWKE’S BAY, 2018
Cabernet Franc
A textural wine which is just starting to evolve. It has incense, dark chocolate, black cherries and an overall savoury character with a touch of leather. It has a creamy texture with supple mid-palate bright redcurrant and cranberry fruits combined with black cherry and vanilla cream flavours. Syrah was grown on exceptional vineyard sites within the Gimblett Gravels subregion of Hawke’s Bay. Grapes were harvested at relatively low sugar levels on April 6, 2017 – the wine is 12% – yet with full phenolic maturity and perfectly ripe tannins. It was matured for two years in barrel with 40% in new oak and the balance in two- and three-year-old barrels.
44
2201
$ 69.00
$ 414.00
2021-2028, M6 D8 Red fruits, toast, mint, tobacco
18°C
Bitter cherries, chocolate, blackcurrant, blueberries
12.5%
Smoked beef ribs with Kansas City BBQ sauce
A touch of grass and mint combine with toasty red fruits, vanilla and tobacco aromas. This is a Cabernet Franc with great depth. It is rich and concentrated with blackcurrant, blueberries, mulberry and chocolate flavours. Grapes were grown in the Bridge Pa subregion of Hawke’s Bay on the western side of the Heretaunga Plains; Bridge Pa, which neighbours Gimblett Gravels, is slightly cooler. Vineyards are on freedraining alluvial soils on gravelly stony terraces. Red wine grapes were fermented in open-top fermenters at low temperature with daily hand plunging of skins. It was matured in oak for 12 months then bottled in June, 2019.
NEW
2202
STRUCKMAN PINOT NOIR, CENTRAL OTAGO, 2019
Pinot Noir $ 450.00
$ 75.00
DANIEL STRUCKMAN Daniel Struckman was inspired by the craftsmanship of winemaking when he started studying viticulture. He believes that great wines are made in the vineyard and has adopted a low intervention approach in his winemaking. In his own words, “Climates and soils give birth to the unique personality of wine”. Daniel’s Pinot Noir is sourced from Central Otago, near the southern tip of the South Island, one of the world’s most southerly wine regions. The region’s distinctive feature is its continental climate, which is unique in New Zealand. As a result, Daniel Struckman’s Pinot Noir stands up against some of the best Pinots from Burgundy! Daniel will personally sign each bottle for Opimian Members.
—Wintertime in Central Otago, the southernmost wine region in the world.
photo
Pinot Noir has youthful fruits with a hint of strawberry, fresh straw and vanilla oak which all lead to a smooth palate with an herbal edge. Daniel sources grapes from Central Otago – the world’s most southern wine-growing region renowned for the quality of its Pinot Noir. The dry-farmed vineyard (relying primarily on rainfall for water) was planted 20 years ago with a mix of Pinot Noir clones 777 and 115. Grapes were harvested by hand on April 11, were de-stemmed and underwent a cold soak for eight days. The juice was then fermented with hand plunging of the skins four times a day, and the wine matured for 18 months in older French oak hogsheads. A flavoursome wine that holds its own when compared with Burgundy’s Aloxe-Corton and Nuits-SaintGeorges crus. 2021-2024, M7 D9 Strawberry, vanilla oak
18°C
Herbal, smooth
14%
Rabbit cacciatore
— NEW ZEALAND DANIEL STRUCKMAN
45
FRANCE
BURGUNDY
Burgundy Pinot Noir A selection of Pinot Noirs from several small, independent growers in Burgundy.
DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND Domaine Désertaux-Ferrand is a family estate based at Corgoloin close to where the Côte de Nuits meets the Côte de Beaune and the famous Corton hill. The domaine has 20 hectares of vineyards in various appellations across both. Wines are made by Vincent Désertaux and his sister Christine whose great-grandfather established an initial three-hectare vineyard and winery in 1899.
2203
DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND, AOP BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, 2019
Pinot Noir $ 40.00
$ 240.00
Floral notes combine with aromas of blackcurrant cordial and lead to a mediumbodied wine with nice mid-palate fruits. Flavours of redcurrants and raspberries emerge followed by a grippy finish. 2021-2024, M7 D9 Blackcurrant cordial, floral
18°C
Redcurrants, raspberries
13.5%
Char siu pork
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CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
photo — Pinot Noir grapes ripening in Burgundy.
NEW
2204
DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND LES PERRIÈRES, AOP CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES, 2019
Pinot Noir $ 57.00
2205
NEW
DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND, LES CHABOEUFS, AOP NUITSSAINT-GEORGES PREMIER CRU, 2018 Pinot Noir
$ 342.00
The Côte de Nuits-Villages appellation covers a number of villages, and these wines are usually a blend from several. In this case, Les Perrières is a single vineyard of 2.6 hectares to the west of Corgoloin with a great exposition ensuring maturity. The 2019 has ripe fruits, cooked cherries and jam with fresh vanilla oak and toasty aromas. It is a mediumbodied wine with a smooth, supple palate finishing with mouthwatering sour fruits. Matured in oak for 12 months.
$ 183.00
Cooked cherries, red apples, vanilla toast
18°C
Sour cherries
14.5%
Pinot Noir $ 549.00
Vincent and Christine own 0.37 hectare of 50-year-old vines in the Premier Cru Les Chaboeufs which have produced a wine with great depth. Vibrant in colour, it has intense spicy aromas of pencil lead and smoke (it was aged in oak for 12 months) which complement floral and blackcurrant notes. It is medium bodied and well balanced with supple tannins and well-integrated oak character with flavours of crushed red fruits and a mineral finish which lingers on the palate.
2021-2026, M6 D6
2206
DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND, LES SAINTS-GEORGES, AOP NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES PREMIER CRU, 2018
$ 243.00
$ 729.00
Les Saint-Georges is the most revered vineyard site in the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation and one of the most historic sites in Burgundy: vines were already planted here in 1000 AD. Herbal aromas, tarragon, sweet pipe tobacco, vanilla and cherries lead to a structured wine, well balanced with good depth and acidity and which is as smooth as velvet. Grapes were picked by hand, de-stemmed and then left to cold macerate before fermentation. Youthful, the 2018 needs some time to fully express itself.
2021-2028, M6 D8 Pencil lead, spices, floral, blackcurrant
18°C
Crushed red fruits, mineral
15%
Roast pork with fennel and herbs Beef Bourguignon
2022-2028 M6 D7 Sweet fruits, tarragon, pipe tobacco
18°C
Cherries, cranberry
14.5%
Lamb filet sauteed with pepper and celery puree
— The sorting table at Domaine DésertauxFerrand. Dry seeds and underripe grapes are removed.
photo
— BURGUNDY DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND
47
DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS Jacques Dubois’ winery is on the outskirts of Chorey-Lès-Beaune. It’s a simple traditional winery: his family has been making wines here since the 1800s. Jacques, the fifth generation, farms seven hectares around the villages of Chorey and Savigny. He uses minimal intervention in the vineyard and winery to make terroir-driven wines. All wines are matured in oak and bottled without filtration or fining.
2207
DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS, LES BRESSANDES, AOP BEAUNE 1ER CRU, 2019
Pinot Noir $ 510.00
$ 85.00
A more structured wine, it has floral aromas of violets and peonies. Soft and juicy on the palate, it has good weight with red cherries and raspberry flavours and a refreshing acidity. It is medium bodied with depth and the potential to develop over the next few years.
Violets, peony
18°C
Red cherries, raspberries
14%
Wild mushroom risotto
48
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
MIXED CASE
2022-2028 M6 D7
photo — The manual harvest at the Bressandes plot
with the village of Beaune in the background.
DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS, LES RATAUSSES, AOP SAVIGNY-LÈS-BEAUNE, 2019
Pinot Noir
Light bodied and intensely flavoured, with youthful red fruits, red apples and cherry aromas. This is an elegant wine with lots of ripe fruit flavours. Les Ratausses vineyard is situated on the plain to the east of Savigny village. Jacques farms 24 ouvrées of 50-year-old vines. 2021-2025, M7 D9
2208
DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS MIXED CASE
$ 66.00
$ 396.00
TWO BOTTLES EACH
Red fruits, cherries, red apples
18°C
Elegant ripe fruits, smooth
14%
Chicken liver pâté and toasted baguette slices
CLOS MARGOT, LES RATAUSSES & LES BRUNETTES
DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS, CLOS MARGOT, AOP CHOREY-LES-BEAUNE, 2019
DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS, LES BRUNETTES, AOP ALOXE-CORTON, 2019
Pinot Noir Pinot Noir
An elegant wine with red fruits and some musky aromas. It is supple, medium bodied with a long finish. Clos Margot is a parcel of 18 ouvrées close to the village of Chorey. Grapes were fermented over three weeks, after a cold soak, by natural yeast, the wine then matured in oak with 25% new for 12 months.
A mellow, complex wine with good potential, it has aromas of crushed strawberries and tarragon. It has lots of appeal now and should mature nicely. The Aloxe-Corton appellation lies to the south and around the bottom of the landmark that is the Corton hill. Jacques’ vines, with an average age of 80 years, are located in Les Brunettes close to the village of Aloxe-Corton.
2021-2026, M6 D8 Red fruits, musk
18°C
Mellow, crushed strawberries, tarragon
18°C
Fresh fruits
14%
Strawberries, good depth
14%
Grilled lobster
photo — The tendrils of the vine develop on the stem,
opposite from the leaves.
2021-2028, M7 D9
Charcuterie with goat cheese
— BURGUNDY DOMAINE DUBOIS BERNARD & FILS
49
NEW
2210
DOMAINE BONNARDOT, L’ÂGE MÛRE, AOP BOURGOGNE HAUTESCÔTES DE NUITS, 2018
Pinot Noir $ 51.00
$ 306.00
Mellow fruit aromas with typical Pinot notes, wild strawberries and peonies with vanilla oak. Drinking nicely now, this is a mediumbodied wine with structure; tight with good tannins, it should mature nicely over the next couple of years.
DOMAINE BONNARDOT Based in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits at Villers-la-Faye, Domaine Bonnardot farms 20 hectares of vines. Danièle Bonnardot took over running the estate from her parents, Jean and Simone, in 2009. Work in the vineyards is adapted to each parcel with tilling of the soil in densely planted vineyards while plants are left to grow between wider rows. Danièle takes pride in not using any chemical fertilizers, insecticides or anti-rot treatments.
2021-2025, M7 D9 Mellow fruits and vanilla oak
18°C
Wild strawberries, peonies
12.5%
Crispy sweetbreads with asparagus
2209
DOMAINE BONNARDOT, AOP CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES, 2018
DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES
Pinot Noir $ 49.00
$ 294.00
Savoury, meaty aromas combine with cherries and vanilla creating a bouquet with depth. Supple on the palate, it has nice mid-palate fruit and weight ending with a long bitter, cherry finish. Produced from grapes from vines 70-80 years old in four parcels in the communes of Premeaux-Prissey, Comblanchien and Corgoloin. After a cold maceration, natural yeasts carried out the fermentation in tank followed by malolactic fermentation in barrel. After 12 months in oak barrels with 20% new, it was bottled mid-March, 2020.
2211
DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES, VIEILLES VIGNES, AOP BOURGOGNE, 2019
Pinot Noir $ 33.00
A light-bodied Burgundy, immediately drinkable with lots of fresh cherries, redcurrants and Ribena flavours. Domaine des Terres Gentilles is in southern Burgundy at Azé in the Mâconnais.
2021-2026, M7 D9
CELLAR 280 — ONTARIO
2021-2023, M8 D9
Savoury meaty notes, cherries, vanilla
18°C
Blackcurrant cordial, fresh cherries
18°C
Bitter cherry
13%
Redcurrant
13%
Côte de boeuf (standing rib roast)
50
$ 198.00
Candy-cane beet and goat cheese salad
DOMAINE THEVENOTLE BRUN & FILS
DOMAINE CRUCHANDEAU
2212
JULIEN CRUCHANDEAU, LES RANCHES, AOP LADOIX, 2019
Pinot Noir $ 63.00
$ 378.00
Julien Cruchandeau set up his eponymous domaine in 2003, having originally trained and worked in restaurants and hotels. He farms four hectares of vineyards in seven appellations and makes rich, concentrated wines in the small ancient cellar beneath his house. His 2019 Ladoix has ripe fruit aromas with cooked mulberries and parma violets. It is supple with a broad palate, concentrated with raspberry and cherry flavours. 2021-2028, M6 D7
2213
DOMAINE THEVENOT-LE BRUN & FILS CLOS DU VIGNON, MONOPOLE, AOP BOURGOGNE HAUTES-CÔTES DE NUITS
Parma violets, cooked mulberries
18°C
Raspberries, cherries
14%
Lightly seared ahi tuna with blackberrymustard sauce
Pinot Noir $ 45.00
$ 270.00
Nicolas Thevenot took over the running of this domaine just over ten years ago, becoming the fifth generation vigneron to farm the land. The Clos de Vignon is a single seven-hectare plot located close to the ancient Abbaye du LieuDieu in the commune of Marey-lès-Fussey. Vines are planted on a steep slope facing south to south-south-east. The 2018 has floral aromas combined with marzipan and bitter almond with a herbal twist. It is quite light in body with flavours of sour raspberries and bitter cherries lingering on the tongue. 2021-2025, M7 D8 Floral, bitter almond and herbs
18°C
Raspberry, cherries
13.5%
Venison filet with cherries
photo — At Julien Cruchandeau’s estate, Ocean the
horse has helped carry grapes for two years.
photo by johann michalczak.
— BURGUNDY DOMAINE DES TERRES GENTILLES | DOMAINE CRUCHANDEAU
51
ESCAPES
Discover Burgundy Located in central-eastern France, Burgundy is renowned for its outstanding quality wines, particularly its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.
DOMAINE DÉSERTAUX-FERRAND, AOP BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR, 2019, LOT 2203, P46
JULIEN CRUCHANDEAU, LES RANCHES, AOP LADOIX, 2019, LOT 2212, P51
HISTORY To the envy of their eternal rivals, Bordeaux wines, Burgundy wines stand out for their finesse and sharp elegance. Exceptional terroir and a true epicureans’ paradise, Burgundy’s vineyards extend over nearly 230 kilometres. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2015, Burgundy’s “climats” are a priceless reminder of the incredible diversity of terroirs this region has to offer. “Climat” is a typically Burgundian term that defines the winemaking terroir, which encompasses plot, grape variety and know-how. Each climat features unique geological, hydrometric and exposure characteristics. The production of each climat is vinified separately from a single grape variety; the wine that is produced takes the name of the climat it comes from. The region boasts nearly 562 Premier Crus. The small size of the plots of land, which results in some very limited productions, makes most of the great Burgundys extremely rare, contributing significantly to the craze for this exceptional region among wine enthusiasts. Since the beginning of the 90s, and spurred by a new generation of young, more rigorous, and better trained winegrowers, Burgundy has been experiencing what could be called a wine revolution. It is one of the regions of France that has achieved the most progress in terms of infrastructure and processes in recent decades. The Route des grands crus will take you on an extraordinary journey of discovery along a series of “vintage” stages. No wonder it is dubbed the “Champs-Élysées of Burgundy.” Over 60 kilometres, through 37 villages bearing mythical names, it is France’s very first wine route, established in 1937 after the country created the first paid vacations. It is the first stone that paved the way towards the development of wine tourism, which we could not do without today!
52
CELLAR 280 — ESCAPES
ARCHITECTURE
NATURE
But Burgundy is also rich in breathtaking historical monuments. The most famous being the Hospices de Beaune, this timeless place has stood the test of time and still stands today exceptionally proud.
Finally, nature buffs won’t feel left out during their trip to Burgundy, as the region also offers many exceptional natural landscapes:
Its originality lies in the nature of its heritage, consisting of a historical monument, the 15th-century Hôtel Dieu, and a prestigious 60-hectare wine estate with some of the region’s best appellations which were gathered over time through legacies and donations. Every year since 1794, the production of the vineyard is sold at the world’s most famous charity sale held on the 3rd Sunday in November. The proceeds of the sale are entirely donated to the Hospices de Beaune’s charity work. Another architectural jewel you will not want to miss is the majestic Palais des Ducs de Bourgogne in Dijon’s historic district. This important site of royalty for centuries saw the powerful Dukes of Burgundy almost overthrow the kings of France several times. The Palais now houses the town hall, the Fine Arts Museum, the municipal archives and the city of Dijon’s tourist office.tourisme de Dijon.
The Parc Naturel du Morvan, covering nearly 9% of the region, is endowed with a rich ecosystem featuring forests, lakes, mountains and rivers. In addition, the park offers a large range of activities to suit all ages and tastes. Discover Burgundy’s natural beauty on foot, by bike, by boat or even on horseback. If you still have a little bit of time left, head south to another iconic spot, the Roche de Solutré. It will only take you an hour of moderate walking to reach the peak at 493 m, and to be rewarded with the spectacular scenery from the top of this rocky spur. Before you leave, stop by the mustard factory Moutarderie Edmont Fallot, to pick up a jar of real Dijon mustard. Enjoy the tour!
— CELLAR 280 ESCAPES
53
FROM BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARDS
2193
BRIAR RIDGE VINEYARD NV LIQUEUR MUSCAT, HUNTER VALLEY
Muscat $ 144.00
$ 144.00
2021-2026, M6 D8 Raisins, Christmas cake, rich and spicy
6°C
Complex, syrupy, [S]
17%
Chocolate, dried fruits, nuts; pumpkin pie
54
CELLAR 280 — COLLECTOR’S CORNER
Muscat grapes were left for a prolonged period on the vine to intensify in sweetness and to develop raisin flavours. Fermentation was arrested to produce a sweet luscious fortified wine with 17% alcohol. The fortified Muscat then matured through a solera system blending younger and older wines across multiple vintages. The result is a deep tawny colour, intense raisins, Christmas cake and caramel characters which are rich and spicy. The same flavours are complemented by its super treacly-sweet palate. This is complex and nutty with great length, all beautifully presented in a smart decanter-style bottle. Ready to drink now, it can be kept and remain in good condition if unopened but will not develop.
FROM BEC HARDY WINES
2153
BEC HARDY WINES TIPSY HILL CABERNET SAUVIGNON, SINGLE VINEYARD, MCLAREN VALE, 2016
Cabernet Sauvignon $ 125.00
$ 250.00
2022-2028, M7 D8 Mellow bouquet with cedary notes
18°C
Concentrated, smoky, mineral
15%
Venison medallions, parsnip puree, roasted baby beets
Produced from the Tipsy Hill vineyard where Bec, her husband Richard and their daughter Tilly live. They moved into the house in February 2016, and this, the first vintage they produced, was picked just a few weeks later. Located at Blewitt Springs, the 1.8-hectare block is planted on very sandy soils on an east-facing slope. Deep ruby in colour, it has mellow cedary aromas. It is rich and concentrated on the palate with smoky flavours, some grassy notes coming from the cooler location and a firm mineral finish. 2016 was a mild year with low rainfall. Grapes were fermented in open fermenters, on skins, the wine then matured in oak for 20 months using 50% new French oak hogsheads. It will continue to mature in bottle.
COLLECTOR’S CORNER
Rare RAREfinds FINDS to enhance TO your ENHANCE cellarYOUR CELLAR
Bec will personally sign each bottle for Opimian Members.
— CELLAR 280 COLLECTOR’S CORNER
55
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