15 minute read
YOUR NEW
FRESCOBOL CARIOCA,
> Invented in Australia, Tencel is made from cellulose that’s found in wood pulp. Now I know what you’re thinking: fabric made from trees? Sounds scratchy. Far from it. The result is a supremely silky, slinky material that falls beautifully and looks totally badass - as seen with this new 100% Tencel shirt by Brazilian beach brand Frescobol Carioca.
£175, FRESCOBOLCARIOCA.COM GET A MAN-MADE SHIRT
You heard that right. Plastic synthetic fabrics like nylon have (rightfully) gained a poor reputation since their invention last century for their tendency to pollute the environment, not only during their creation, but also after their use has ended, clogging up landfills where they will fester for centuries before degrading (if at all). Thankfully, a new generation of synthetic fabrics created from natural sources, such as lyocell and Tencel, and sustainably managed natural fibres are being adopted more and more by designers - and they’re coming to a shirt near you this summer.
edit: NICK CARVELL
Your future wardrobe starts here
Until the day comes where humans can walk around naked, we’re all going to need clothes - and as long as we need clothes, we need to deal with the environmental impact that has. One of the most important ways you can reduce the environmental impact of your wardrobe is not only buying less, but also buying better. These two things are inextricably linked - clothes made from higher quality fabrics using time-honored craftsmanship will inevitably last longer, and will generally be easier to repair, meaning they’ll stay with you for longer. On top of that many of these items will also avoid planet-damaging chemicals in their creation and less single-use plastic in their packaging. It’s a win for everyone. Here are a few items that will help you look good, smell good and do good this summer.
ARKET,
> Think of Tencel as the ‘Hoover’ to lyocell’s ‘vacuum cleaner’ - both are essentially the same thing, it’s just that Tencel’s a brand name for this eucalyptus-derived fabric. Whichever you go for, another of the firbe’s advantages is that it ages wonderfully, getting softer and softer with each wash while retaining crisp colours. It’s the sort of fabric that really makes patterns and stripes pop, so go wild - this black and white bar-stripe lyocell shirt from Swedish brand Arket will only get better with age. £69, ARKET.COM
NN07,
> We’ve already talked about the benefits of Tencel (botanical origin, biodegradability, low ecological impact during manufacture), but linen is another fabric you should get familiar with as it takes far less water to produce than other natural fibres. Combine the two and you’ve got a shirt that’s a bit of a sustainability superduo. This Tencel-linen mix shirt from Japanese label NN07 really hits the spot.
SIR PLUS,
> Cotton’s a classic shirting fabric, but it can be produced in a way that’s not only a bad deal for the planet, but also a bad deal for the people making it. Look out for companies who are part of the The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) - a certification that covers issues such as crop protection, water stewardship, soil health, biodiversity and fair employment principles in the fabric’s manufacture. London-based menswear label Sir Plus is one such brand - and they’ve just launched this killer BCI Cotton kaftan for summer.
£110, SIRPLUS.CO.UK
FINISTERRE,
> Another pair of wood-based wonderpants, this time created by British adventure brand Finisterre. They’re made from a bamboo-derived fabric, designed to regulate temperature, wick moisture away from the skin and keep you feeling fresh all day long. £25, FINISTERRE.COM
GET SOME ETHICALLY-MINDED UNDERWEAR
Sometimes the concept of sustainability feels very distant from our everyday lives - but your underwear is about as close as it can get. As something you (probably) slip on every day and replace relatively often, make a commitment to phasing in more sustainable fabrics as your old kecks head off to the great recycling plant in the sky. Not only are there plenty of new wave sustainable fabrics out there, but there’s also a style to suit every under-trouser preference.
EVEREST ISLES,
> American eco-beach brand Everest Isles has just launched a line of underwear made from a mix of seaweed fibre and lyocell. Better yet, it’s coloured using natural dyes and comes in fully water-soluble packaging. £20, EVERESTISLES.COM
CDLP,
> Now skinny jeans are dead once and for all, I predict a comeback for the boxer short. However, rather than the baggy, bunched-up ones you remember, this new boxer will combine slinky stretch fabric with a relaxed-yet-fitted cut, as well as the trademark button fly, so they slip nicely under a pair of slim-not-skintight trousers. These Tencel boxers from CDLP are a perfect example. £33, CDLP.COM
A DAY’S MARCH,
> Crafted from Tencel, these boxer-briefs from Swedish brand A Day’s March are as soft as they are sturdy. Also a polite reminder that Tencel is naturally antibacterial and sweat wicking because, well, you know.
£15, ADAYSMARCH.COM
GO AU NATUREL IN THE BATHROOM
There’s a whole lot of single use plastic in our homes, and especially in our bathrooms. From bottles to wrappers, many of the things we use to clean ourselves do the planet dirty. So next time you need a new shampoo, skip the one-time plastic receptacle and go for something that can be reused, refilled or properly recycled altogether. Here are a few suggestions...
AKT DEODORANT,
> Traditional deodorant is full of chemicals and metals that we’re unwittingly pumping into our pores on a daily basis. The sooner you switch to something more natural the better, and I’ve found nothing that works as well as AKT. Founded by West End actors Ed Currie and Andy Coxon, these deodorant balms come in cream form. Made from soothing shea butter and calendula oil and infused with natural botanicals, one pea sized application in the morning gives you 24 hours of protection. Better yet it comes in fully recyclable metal packaging (even the cap) and you can order your tubes on a subscription basis, so your armoury stays stocked all year long. £18, AKTLONDON.COM
HAWKINS & BRIMBLE REFILLABLE ESSENTIALS,
> British grooming brand Hawkins & Brimble wants to ditch 95% of its plastic usage by the end of this year. To help achieve this, the company has just introduced a new range of refillable grooming essentials from shampoo to hair spray. Launching this month, these five products come in refillable aluminium packaging, and can be topped up using recyclable refill pouches.
REFILLABLE BOTTLES, £12. REFILL POUCHES, £7. HAWKINSANDBRIMBLE.CO.UK NEAL’S YARD HAND SANITISER,
> After a year of using hand sprays constantly, I feel I’ve become a bit of a sanitiser sommelier - and, trust me, Neal’s Yard’s Natural Defence is the Dom Perignon of its genre. Light and refreshing with zero stickiness, this citrus and witch hazel infused liquid also comes in a recyclable glass bottle that you can use to fill any spray vessel you wish, meaning no more little plastic bottles heading off to landfill. £12.50 FOR 200ML, NEALSYARDREMEDIES.COM
JONES & MODHA NO.1 EAU DE PARFUM,
> Frustrated by the amount of synthetic ingredients in commercial fragrances, friends Catrin MacDonnell and Hemali Modha decided to make a scent that went back to perfume’s botanical roots. Made in small batches by the pair in Somerset, Jones & Modha No.1 uses only naturallyderived notes to create a crisp woody-citrusy juice that works for both men and women. Better yet, it reacts to the oils in your skin as it develops, meaning you’ll never smell the same as anyone else. £69, JONESANDMODHA.CO.UK
SOME FUTUREPROOF NEW RELEASES...
From futuristic fabrics to environmentally-conscious workout shirts, here are a few extra pieces worth considering that will keep your wardrobe feeling fresh for many seasons to come.
LULULEMON’S EARTH DYE WORKOUT GEAR,
> I’ve been a longtime fan of the quality and superb comfort of Lululemon’s workout kit, but this new collection takes it to a whole new level. Cut from fabric that mixes pima cotton with lyocell, every piece in this new tie-dye-tastic Earth Dye capsule has been coloured using a variety of plant-based dyes that use waste from agricultural and herbal industries. They’ve introduced this across a number of their best-loved items, so whether you want to go head-to-toe or simply fancy bringing a pop of something to your gear now you’re returning to the gym, there’s will be something for you. £48, LULULEMON.CO.UK
FLAX LONDON’S FIRST TROUSERS,
> What makes Flax London’s products great - and they are truly great - is that sustainability is baked into everything they make. Formerly a shirt-only brand, this month they launch their first trousers, cut from linen (which takes less water to produce) grown in Belgium and woven in Portugal (so fewer air miles) and including zero plastic packaging from the workshop to your door. Featuring patch pockets and a higher-cut waist, go for the green iteration for a truly breezy summer trouser.
£160, FLAXLONDON.COM SERENGETI’S SPACE AGE SHADES,
> Sometimes the most successful designs are those that combine respect for the past with the technology of the future. Take these shades from Serengeti. Sure the frame’s got that throwback mid-century vibe, but the lens is so advanced that it feels like it’s from mid-next-century. Crafted from borosilicate optical glass (that’s 20% thinner and lighter than any other on the market), these photochromic mineral lenses are fired in a hydrogen-fueled lehr furnace, which activates the company’s patented Spectral Control technology (which filters blue light, both protecting your eyes and adding definition to whatever you are looking through the glasses at). Plus, they’re also chemically tempered to ensure scratch and impact resistance - so it’s an investment that’ll last way into the future – provided you don’t lose them sometime before the next century. £375, SERENGETI-EYEWEAR.COM
BARACUTA X BY BORRE RECYCLED POLYESTER VEST,
> Need a little extra insulation on summer nights? British outerwear brand Baracuta has teamed up with Dutch textile design company Byborre on a new collaboration featuring bold tartan prints and futuristic technical fabric. This vest is cut from Sinterama Newlife, a superior quality, recycled polyester fabric created from post-consumer plastic obtained from plastic bottles collected in northern Italy. If you need to justify purchasing it, you’ll be pleased to hear this vest is also reversible - so it’s basically two items for the price of one. Ish.
£425, BARACUTA.COM
VIVVANT URBAN PEACH COLOUR LEATHER SNEAKERS,
> British design meets Florentine craftsmanship; what’s more timeless than that? These pale peach sneakers from dual citizenship brand Vivvant are a perfect summer essential, ready to be paired with a smart casual linen blazer or something a touch more casual. They’re a versatile classic in the making with a colour just unusual enough for a touch of warm weather flair, combined with the level of quality you’d expect from Italian leather artisans.
£248, VIVVANT.CO.UK GEOFF STOCKER SULTAN DRESSING GOWN,
> With the new normal now working from home, it’s about time we upped our game when it comes to loungewear and the collection of silk dressing gowns from Geoff Stocker is essentially the final level of sartorial grandeur. Inspired by the designer’s travels across the world, the gowns come in a series of exquisite patterns printed onto lightweight twill silk, pairing exotic colours and motifs with the traditional luxury of the lord of a manor. The Sultan, with its echoes of the Kasbah is the kind of loungewear you don’t want to hide, video call or no. Nor should you. £495, GEOFFSTOCKER.COM
MR MARVIS THE SUNSETS ORIGINAL SHORTS ,
> We might only be able to make the most of them half the year – if we’re being meteorologically generous – but a good pair of tailored shorts will never go out of style. Fortunately, Mr Marvis Original Shorts don’t just make the most of the elegant cut that put the brand on the map, but come in over 40 shades to match your wardrobe, the season or your general mood. For us, the Sunsets with their bright coral stretch cotton make for a timeless taste of sunshine and sangria, the kind you come back to year after year.
£79, MRMARVIS.CO.UK
THE CAMP COLLAR SHIRT has certainly benefited from the cyclical nature of trends and, while many styles come and go, there’s no reason to think that it will become outdated again. After all, its qualities as a must-have summer shirt are too irresistible.
Like all of the best garments in the modern wardrobe, the camp collar shirt is a descendant of workwear. Conceived with the functional purpose of keeping you cool in the heat thanks to an open neck, short sleeves, and loose fit (with the occasional pocket for utility purposes), it was originally worn by
Words:
BENEDICT BROWNE
HOW TO WEAR: FUTURIST CAMP COLLAR SHIRTS
Born as workwear, the camp collar has all the qualities of an ideal summer shirt and this season the vogue is futurism
Cuban farmers in the late 19th century.
However, it was the Americans who instigated the evolution of the camp collar shirt to a leisurewear staple in around the mid-century. It was popularised to such an extent it was almost as ubiquitous as a pair of Levi’s blue jeans. Then, the camp collar shirt became obsolete towards the end of the century but not for long, as it made itself known again in the fashion world a few years ago. Now, you’d be hard-pressed to find a luxury brand that didn’t have a camp collar shirt in its spring/summer collection, and it’s a wonderful thing.
While camp collar shirts can be found in plenty of plain fabrics, it’s ones with arresting designs and crazy patterns that are most interesting. For summer, designers approach the camp collar like an artist approaches a freshly-primed canvas, and the movement that’s currently in vogue is certainly futurism.
The expression ‘easy does it’ springs to mind when discussing how to wear a camp collar shirt; don’t overthink and overwork them. In nature, it’s a casual garment, and so it’s designed to be worn untucked with befitting garments such as shorts and loose-fitting trousers. Because futuristic shirts are fairly loud, they should be worn with solid colours, as mixing patterns can get messy. Opting for either a white cotton T-shirt or cellular vest beneath will help put the two together, as the contrast calms the look down and adds balance.
Camp collar shirts can also be dressed up, too, and are a fun option to have in your wardrobe for social events. To do this, they can be slipped beneath a tailored jacket but bear in mind the tones that are going on and whether they complement each other. Tuck it into a pair of tailored trousers and sport the collar over the lapels of your jacket. It’s a little bit Miami Vice meets Scarface, but it works and it’s fun.
Fun is definitely the operative word when it comes camp-collar shirts. And, after the last year or so we’ve had to endure, we all deserve a bit of that.
edit: BENEDICT BROWNE
Three of the Best
Futuristic, wild and bold, it’s time to make a camp collar summer statement with three eye-catching designs for your sartorial consideration
SUN SURF SS36837 “PARADISE FLOWER” HAWAIIAN SHIRT BLUE
Made from beautiful natural rayon, each shirt is individually screen printed to replicate every nuanced detail of this surf-inspired Hawaiian design, about as close to a vintage number from the golden era of the style as possible. £185 FROM CLUTCH-CAFE.COM
It’s playful and disturbing in equal measure
CHARLES JEFFREY LOVERBOY FACE-PRINT SILK-BLEND SHIRT
Created in collaboration with fashion illustrator and womenswear designer Julian Scarry, this surrealist statement piece is printed onto a lightweight Hawaiian silhouette and Cuban collar, finished with a buttoned chest pocket.
£435 FROM MATCHESFASHION.COM ENDLESS JOY JIM MOIR TURMOIL CAMP-COLLAR PRINTED TENCEL SHIRT
Using the humble shirt as a canvas, Endless Joy has worked with British artist Jim Moir (better known as Vic Reeves) to transform a surreal depiction of turmoil into a wonderfully breathable, eye-catching summer number. It’s playful and disturbing in equal measure. £365 FROM MRPORTER.COM