Key West: End of the Road

by Christi Ashby

Twenty, twenty-five, thirty, or more? I can’t remember how many road trips I have made to Key West, the literal end of the road in the eastern U.S. For many, it’s too long or boring and they prefer to fly in and out, skipping all the quirkiness and quaintness dotting the Overseas Highway. But we, my husband and I, breathe a sigh of relaxation as soon as we ease out of Florida City into a 180-degree slo-mo video of dense mangroves, turquoise waters, storm-stranded fishing boats, bait shops, and yes, those infamous tiki bars.

And then when the final mile markers tick down and the last key is reached, there is only one decision to make, go left and pass the beaches and airport or head right and wind through the town and marinas. This visit, when we reached the iconic Duval Street, we took it all the way to the western end and pulled into the Pier House Resort & Spa. Lushly landscaped, the series of structures — added or acquired over time

— comprise the retreat that is its own oasis seemingly miles away from the din of Duval. Yet, in just a few steps off the property, you can easily walk to dozens of cultural, shopping and dining spots.

The Pier House, originally opened more than 50 years ago, represents the timeless reason you head to the island — a chill, laid-back, casual experience where noschedule days flow into gorgeous sunsets. Much of Key West remains as I remember from childhood, but today there are cruise ships that arrive almost every day of the week, temporarily inflating the population, and chickens and roosters roam freely down most streets.

The water, though, is the greatest attraction, which makes the Pier House an ideal place to play on the Gulf of Mexico with its private beach, adjacent Beach Bar, oceanfront One Duval restaurant and pool, and an array of ocean and dock-view rooms and suites. A visit to the intimate dive bar, the Chart Room, is a must with its if these walls could talk atmosphere filled with vintage photos of notable imbibers and storytellers (among them Jimmy Buffet, Louis Armstrong and Mel Fisher).

Our adventure included refreshing cocktails (classic Palomas) and delicious appetizers (lobster BLT sliders) at the Beach Bar. Gourmet breakfasts at One Duval of Norwegian salmon benedict and Havana-style French toast fueled us for exploring nearby waterfront marinas where we spent much of our mornings and afternoons. You just can’t tire of watching sailboats and yachts glide and ripple through the multi-hued seas. The spa offered massages that hit all the spots — even releasing the ones you didn’t know you had — and the staff was very professional and accommodating.

(Opposite page) There are lots of options for sunset cruises and the Pier House private beach can be seen from the water. The resort’s lush landscaping welcomes guests at every turn.

(This page) A stop in the Chart Room reveals the bar’s colorful history. Comfortable guest rooms and suites offer a variety of views.

The America 2.0 sailing schooner is modeled after one of the most famous maritime icons of all time. Nautical nods can be found throughout the city. The lobster sliders at the Pier House Beach Bar are the perfect afternoon snack.

To really take in all the sights from a schooner on a sunset cruise was magical and one thing we had never done before. Our captain ensured we moved smoothly as the crew served wine and appetizers between their duties on the sails. And of course, we posed for the obligatory photo at

Pier House Resort & Spa

the Southernmost Point Buoy, and I purchased a pair of the comfortable Kino sandals from the factory. But mainly we slowly strolled the streets, grooved to live music, noshed, nibbled and sipped, and then slipped into slumberland totally unencumbered. Aah, Key West, ’til we meet again.

1 Duval St., Key West 33040 | 305-296-4600 | pierhouse.com