O.C.EATS 2018

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O.C.EATS Your portable guide to dining in Orange County

¤ FAVORITES

AT DISNEYL AND

¤ THE BEST

VEGGIE BURGERS

¤ ROOFTOP VIEWS

¤ REVIEWS OF

212 RESTAURANTS

¤ CHEF

INTERVIEWS

AND MORE!

PERIODICAL SUPPLEMENT TO ORANGE COAST MAGAZINE

VOTED BEST ASIAN RESTAURANT IN OC AND BEST DESSERT 3 YEARS IN A ROW.

EH<:M>= :M LHNMA <H:LM IE:S: :=C' MH ;EHHFBG@=:E> L COSTA MESA, CA 92626 | (714)557-5679

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INSIDE… Here’s your pocket-size guide to the best dining in Orange County. Whether you’re headed to a new area or need some inspiration close to home, you’ll find the culinary expertise you love from Orange Coast in a handy, easy-to-reference guide for the year.

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A SIMPLE SWEET

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PIZZA & BREWS KUDOS TO THESE CHAINS

ROOFTOP DINING

On the cover: A Restaurant in Newport Beach. This page: Sushi Roku at Fashion Island. Photographs by Priscilla Iezzi.

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B E S T E AT S AT DISNEYLAND

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E D I T O R-I N - C H I E F Alan Gibbons DESIGN DIRECTOR Mindy Benham SENIOR EDITORS Chris Christensen Astgik Khatchatryan A S S O C I AT E E D I T O R Ada Madigan DEPUT Y ART DIRECTOR Victoria E. Alvarez E D I T O R I A L A N D A R T A S S I S TA N T Michelle Pagaran DINING CRITIC Gretchen Kurz

PRESIDENT AND PUBLISHER Christopher O. Schulz, cschulz@orangecoast.com EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT Linda Wallis Goldstein, lgoldstein@orangecoast.com ACCOUNT DIRECTORS Randy Bilsley, rbilsley@orangecoast.com Edward Estrada, eestrada@orangecoast.com Richard Lockhart, rlockhart@orangecoast.com Pam Potts, ppotts@orangecoast.com MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER Traci Takeda, ttakeda@orangecoast.com D I G I TA L M E D I A M A N A G E R Ping Tsai, ptsai@orangecoast.com PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sue Branica C R E AT I V E S E R V I C E S A R T D I R E C T O R Diane Davis S A L E S A N D M A R K E T I N G A S S I S TA N T Jenna Cushing

HOUR MEDIA CEO Stefan Wanczyk

PRESIDENT John Balardo

ORANGE COAST MAGAZINE LLC 1124 Main St., Suite A; Irvine, CA 92614; 949-862-1133, orangecoast.com

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AWARD WINNING MEXICAN GASTRONOMY & MIXOLOGY

ANAHEIM PACKING DISTRICT 440 S. ANAHEIM BLVD. | ANAHEIM CA 92805 714.502.0255 | URBANAANAHEIM.COM Hours: Sun-Wed 11am - 11pm | Thurs-Sat 11am - 12am 3 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

RESTAURANT GUIDE ORANGE COUNT Y’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE F O R R E S TAU R A N T N E W S & M I N I R E V I E W S P R I C I N G $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25 S TA R R AT I N G S Ratings are determined by food quality, creativity, service, ambience, and value. But any restaurant we review, we recommend. Outstanding on every level

A L I S O V IE JO OPAH Trendy and sleek, this neighborhood hottie oozes a hip energy that attracts single minglers and ’burban scene-hunters in search of artfully prepared California cuisine. Choose from a varied, creative menu with signature items such as Tower of Parmesan Sweet Potato Chips, and hazelnut-crusted halibut with papaya salsa. Monster martinis keep the mood lively. 26851 Aliso Creek Road, 949-360-8822. $$

A N A HE IM ANAHEIM PACKING HOUSE Anaheim’s double-decker food hall, anchoring downtown’s vintage Packing District, is bustling while still evolving. Solid players include Kettle Bar for steam-cooked seafood and local brews and Urbana for elevated Mexican cuisine and creative cocktails. Early faves that still thrill are Georgia’s for worthy soul food, Adya for snacky Indian street eats, Crêpe Coop for yummy dessert crêpes, and Blind Rabbit speakeasy for craft cocktails and chic nibbles. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-533-7225. $$ C ATAL RESTAUR ANT AND UVA BAR Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the Patina Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine. Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the 4 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

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zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great people-watching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$ THE C ATCH The Catch grooves with the seasoned vibrancy of a winning team. Executive chef Cory Rapp orchestrates the unapologetically immense menu of modern and classic American eats that lure local business execs, game-day fans, and concertgoers. Seafood is the main event, but there are ace steaks and killer burgers, too. Polished service. Primo access to Honda Center, Anaheim Stadium, and the Grove Theater. 2100 E. Katella Ave. 714-935-0101. $$$ SEE A D ON PAGE 49 THE FIFTH

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MORTON’ S , THE STE AKHOUSE Steaks—including the 24-ounce porterhouse and double-cut filet mignon—are wet-aged 21 days. Fill your plate with giant sides of broc-

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A SIMPLE SWEET Panna cotta isn’t a complicated indulgence. And at CUCINA ENOTECA, simplicity reigns, but in an elevated fashion, making the Newport Beach restaurant’s seasonal version a dessert we crave. by Ada Madigan

Coconut lime sorbet adds a delicate swath of citrus and a punch of the tropics, the taste of summer in every bite.

Chef Richard Soto poaches peach sections to soften any under-ripeness and coax out their true sweetness.

coli and hash browns, but leave a little room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer bar bite deals, early and late night, Monday through Friday. 1895 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-621-0101, See South Coast Metro location. $$$ NAPA ROSE Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house—no park admission required. Star chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare. The Arts and Crafts-style room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy wait staff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Weekly four6 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

Flecked with vanilla bean, this crème fraîche panna cotta is firm, while still displaying just the right amount of wiggle.

Adding some serious crunch, the housemade, gluten-free granola is the ultimate textural contrast to the creamy base.

course Vintner’s Table menu showcases the best of the best. Grand Californian Hotel, 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, 714-635-2300. $$$ POKINOMETRY ½ Downtown Anaheim’s build-a-poke-bowl canteen is busy for three reasons: The food is delectable, cheap, and made your way. All the elements of delicious Hawaiian poke are assembled Chipotle-style—your pick of cubed raw fish, white or brown rice, fresh onions, cucumber, avocado, mild to incendiary sauces, and vibrant garnishes of smelt roe, sesame seeds, nori, pickled ginger, and wasabi. Parking is problematic, so go off-hours, or pay for a spot in the Wells Fargo garage off West Broadway. 184 S. Harbor Blvd., 657-208-3488, no alcohol. $

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Made with blueberry puree, these tender mini-meringues melt in your mouth.

Thank you Orange County for 3 decades of pat ronage

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30 YEARS IN O.C. 3145 RANCHO VIEJO ROAD, SUITE 103 SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO, CA 92675

949-488-0031

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produce and all-natural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Wine and beer. $$ URBANA SEE A D ON PAGE 3 This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mescal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

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THE R ANCH RESTAUR ANT & SALOON Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael Rossi, and his brother David, pastr y chef. The 53,000-square-foot venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron Electronics. The whopping, (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mash-up of down-home and uptown. A private dining penthouse seats groups of 40 to 264. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$ ROY ’ S Chef Ron Plata adds his dishes to Roy Yamaguchi’s signature collection of Hawaiian-Asian favorites. From sushi to dessert, the accent is on fresh flavors. This location is Convention Center- and Disneyland-close. 321 W. Katella Ave., 714-776-7697. See Newport Beach location. $$$ RUTH’ S CHRIS STE AK HOUSE Sizzling Prime steaks wet-aged 21 days are served topped with big pats of butter. Founder Ruth Fertel grew up in New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2041 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-750-5466. See Irvine location. $$$ TRUE SE ASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local 8 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

BRE A BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are fairly rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. At this sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s, executive chef Glen Tinsley does winning arancini, steamed mussels,

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Lunch at Reunion Kitchen + Drink

EL CHOLO A spiffy outpost of this combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the restaurant’s birth: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with olives and a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La Habra locations. $$ REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and housemade desserts. Modern cocktails increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location in Laguna Beach at 610 N. Coast Highway, 949-226-8393. $$ ROSINE ’ S MEDITERR ANE AN C AFE This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers wine-braised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A sizeable roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spinoff menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

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BREW & PIZZA Channeling yeast and grain, they make a symbiotic pairing by Greg Nagel i At Costa Mesa’s PI ZZERIA ORTIC A, pair the Milanesa, LEFT,—with its abundance of fontina, mascarpone, and Parmigiano-Reggiano—with the bright and grassy Trumer Pils, served in a stunning signature stange glass: a perfectly balanced duo. i P I Z Z A P O R T in San Clemente makes its own award-winning beer, and the Chronic Amber Ale is one of its best. The hoppy-red beer pairs with tangy barbecue sauce, a perfect match for the BBQ Bacon Cheeseburger pizza, which rings the dank-sauce bell all night. i At the PIZZA PR ESS chain, the mini-signature Sun sets on smoky sweet pork and bourbon-y bacon, sharp cheese, and juicy pineapple. A fresh, hoppy Double IPA nicely cuts through all that, resetting your palate between each bite and highlighting the pineapple vibe. i At OUT OF THE PAR K in Buena Park, the Chuck Norris pie is described as “a roundhouse kick to the face!” With buffalo chicken, bacon, avocado, and ranch dressing, a mouth-splint might be in order. Bootlegger’s Old World Hefeweizen is just the Rx.

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typically bold way with this spiffy 256-seat venue in glossy The Village at La Floresta. North county residents swarm the upbeat space, noshing on comfort classics, steaks, and booze-food snacks. Best betws include burgers and prime rib. Desserts are huge, if ordinary. 3325 E. Imperial Highway, 714-733-1310. See Dana Point location. $$$ M AC ALL ANS PUBLIC HOUSE ½ Chef Roman Jimenez’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Top-notch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on Sundays also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. Upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the

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house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. A notable happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature Italian cocktails. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. Dinner only. $$ CEDAR CREEK INN A gorgeous patio, welcoming lounge, and attractive dining room lend upscale charisma to this handsome eatery with an appealing menu that has something for everyone. Coffee-shop favorites get deluxe attention. Salads, sandwiches, and desserts are particularly strong. Dependably skilled service. 20 Pointe Drive, 714-255-5600. Weekend brunch. $$ JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN SEE A D ON PAGE 19 TAVERN After a long break from O.C. debuts, serial restaurateur David Wilhelm returned in his

usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W. Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$ TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY ½ Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E. Imperial Highway, 714257-0101. See Irvine location. $$

C OR ON A DE L M A R THE BUNGALOW ½ Comfy booths, a lively bar with stiff martinis and lots of premium wines by the glass lure diners to this dinner house darling with the feel of a Craftsman home. Prime beef is king, but you also can get a huge Aussie lobster tail. Desserts are classic berries and cream, and chocolate souffle cake, so you can concentrate on your surf ’n’ turf. Lunch is hearty sandwiches and huge high-quality salads. Just save us a seat on the charming patio. 2441 E. Coast Highway, 949-673-6585. $$$ EL CHOLO It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved 12 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

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Hoisin glazed pork tenderloin and saimin noodles from Farmhouse at Roger’s Gardens

cult status. 3520 E. Coast Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La Habra locations. $ FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS ½ This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and most triumphant enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The gazebo setting seats 108 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$ FIVE CROWNS O.C.’s vine-covered grande dame since 1965 stays young thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Anthony Endy (formerly of Paul Martin’s American Grill). Foodies thrill to his seared Texas quail with roasted fruit, but the lavish feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution. As always, service is polished and professional. Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C. Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. $$$ PIROZZI ½ With this coast-hugging venue, supreme charmer Alessandro Pirozzi stays close to the fans who keep his restaurants perpetually packed. The expansive menu includes his greatest hits, plus items inspired by an olive wood-burning Acunto oven from Naples, which at 900 degrees makes his good pizzas even better. Don’t miss the site-specific items: speck-wrapped quail, and burrata salad. 2929 E. Coast Highway, 949-675-2932. Dinner nightly, lunch on weekends. $$$ QUIET WOM AN Perpetually packed with locals for decades, the Q-Dub (as it’s known) pours mean drinks and notable wines by the glass, and keeps a teensy kitchen busy cranking out more-than-decent American grub such as filet mignon sliders and crab cakes, at prices that reflect the ZIP code. Most nights, a house band cranks up the decibels and enlivens the vibe. 3224 E. Coast Highway, 949-640-7440. $$ SIDEDOOR SEE A D ON PAGE 35 Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always

interesting wines by the glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949717-4322. $$ TACKLE BOX Pretty little Corona del Mar State Beach now has a year-round chow counter, thanks to Pasadena native and chef-owner Brian Huskey, a veteran of “Top Chef” season 11. Look for an affordable menu of daytime eats that includes avocado-smoked salmon tartine, chilaquiles with black beans, and even an ace Buffalo cauliflower for beach body vegetarians. Weekend lunch includes star Maine lobster roll on squid ink bun. No booze, but there’s always a housemade agua fresca. 3029 E. Shore Ave., 949-7230502. Closed Monday. $

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ARC ½ Chef-owner Noah Blom’s vision for his roast house cuisine focuses on the allure of woodoven cooking, onsite butchery, and elegant cocktails. The welcoming, small lair at SoCo touts a 15-seat bar overlooking the open kitchen and hard-working oven. It’s an audacious, exciting concept, and winners include a veggie casserole, meatballs, a massive burger, a gorgeous wedge salad, and unique steaks butchered on site. 3321 Hyland Ave., 949-5005561. Weekend brunch. No corkage. $$$ 14 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

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Maine lobster in a squid ink roll, and watermelon agua fresca from Tackle Box

BOATHOUSE COLLEC TIVE This quirky hang is a restaurant and private-event venue from local artist Clayton Peterson. A pastiche of up-cycled shipping containers and post-and-beam construction, the space is also an indoor-outdoor affair with frequent live music by local and touring acts. Mathieu Royer is executive chef, cooking a supertight and ever-changing menu of eclectic fare that’s in sync with this oddball shop. Don’t miss the super-savory burger. Terrific craft cocktails ensure a mixed crowd. 1640 Pomona Ave., 949-646-3176. Closed Monday. $$ DIN TAI FUNG Fans happily endure long waits to satisfy their craving for Xiao Long Bao, juicy pork dumplings, hand-pleated with care. Bowls of noodles, rice, and stacks of bamboo steamers crowd tables as diners blend their own aromatic dipping sauce from rich soy, black vinegar, and shreds of fresh ginger. South Coast Plaza, 3333 Bristol St., 714-549-3388 $$ ECCO ½ This easygoing trattoria at The Camp is downright mainstream compared to its quirky indie neighbors. Expect straightforward Italian fare from local organic goods, with a special devotion to Neapolitan pizza. Spare surroundings are offset by warm, convivial service. Weekday happy hour and day-of-the-week deals make for some sweet bargains. 2937 Bristol St., 714444-3226. Second location at Anaheim Packing House. $$ HABANA RESTAUR ANT & BAR Cigar smoke hangs like the promise of romance over a lushly landscaped patio. Inside, votive candles light the way to a convivial bar where mojitos are muddled and sangria flows freely. If you place a premium on date-night ambience with moderate prices, there’s no better choice than this Cuban restaurant at The Lab. Traditional favorites such as roasted chicken, and ropa vieja, and new-gen dishes: tuna tartare, roasted vegetable salad, and tamale pie. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. $$ IZ AK AYA HACHI ½ A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem. The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566, Dinner only. $ L A C AVE Retro-hip, if unintentionally so, Eastside Costa Mesa’s ’60s Rat Pack lair of a joint has changed

little more than the prices over these many years. Stiff drinks, thick steaks, and live music keep the leather booths full, one floor below ground via a tired elevator. This is the place to feed your craving for Sinatra and Elvis tribute acts. 1695 Irvine Ave., 949-646-7944. Closed Sunday. $$$ SEE A D ON PAGE 23 L E C H AT E A U G A R D E N B I S T R O

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MEMPHIS C AFÉ Memphis was one of the county’s first retro restaurants. It’s set in a sassy shoebox, with a ’50s look and a menu to match: fried chicken, cornbread, gumbo, and steaks. Regulars swear by the Soul Burger with chipotle aioli, and yummy sides of collard greens and shoestring fries. 2920 Bristol St., 714-432-7685. $$ MESA At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by 16 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

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Sunday brunch at Old Vine Cafe

the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast-iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725 Baker St., 714-5576700. Closed Sunday and Monday. $$$ OLD VINE C AFE Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has been a hit since 2007 when it opened with The Camp. Fans adore the rustic indoor-outdoor space while foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. The Camp, 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$ PITFIRE ARTISAN PIZZ A ½ The first O.C. shop from this thriving L.A.-based chain is not your nonna’s pizzeria. Upbeat and come-as-you-are casual, it’s a Cal-Ital original. A menu packed with classic and seasonal woodfired pies, pastas, and salads has wide appeal, so this retooled Marie Callender’s stays packed with fans of all ages. Check out its back-door speakeasy, Pie Society. 353 E. 17th St., 949-313-6333. $ PLUMS C AFÉ Fresh, high-quality cooking shaped by the Pacific Northwest lures locals to this strip-center lunch and weekend brunch favorite for creative eats such as smoked salmon hash and hazelnut flapjacks. 369 E. 17th St., 949-722-7586. Breakfast and lunch. $$ PUEBLO Pueblo is an O. C. first—a modern BEST NEW RESTAURANT Spanish tapas bar with authentic 2015 dishes made with California provisions. Head chef John Beber and sous chef Adam Nicholson work closely with Spanish chefs to keep the innovative menu fresh. The rustic, 45-seat venue includes a patio and small dining bar counter. Pueblo makes a fine neighbor for equally dauntless peers Taco Maria and Arc, increasing SoCo’s lure as a dining destination. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 3321 Hyland Ave., 714-340-5775. No corkage. $$ RESTAUR ANT M ARIN Power duo Marin Howarth and Noah Blom of Arc are behind this 30-seat jewel box of a bistro, the little sister to Arc, next door. Dainty and buoyant, it’s a morning-til-midnight diner serving lush renditions of comfort classics beneath a ceiling dripping with chandeliers. Breakfast all day, of course. For lunch under the sidewalk pergola, go for a patty melt oozing

3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444, Closed Monday. Sunday brunch. Wine and beer. $$$

C Y PRE S S C AFÉ HIRO Hiding out in Cypress, chef-owner Hiro Ohiwa caters to a devoted following who admires his formal French training and Japanese aesthetic. He applies it to a quirky lineup of seasonal specials where anything goes—from wild mushroom curry to osso bucco—all at prices too fair to be true. No wonder the place is always packed. 10509 Valley View St., 714-527-6090. Wine and beer. Closed Monday. $

Jadineros tacos from Taco Maria

Gruyere. Don’t miss the extraordinary chicken potpie, and for dessert, fresh-baked cake and pie tempt from glass-domed pedestals. 3321 Hyland Ave., 949-402-3974. $$$ SOCIAL Social has pioneered the renewal of its scruffy Westside Costa Mesa strip mall. Despite typical hipster trappings, the casual venue surprises with sophisticated cooking, inventive cocktails, and most recently, added space that is Thunderking nitro coffee bar and a communal workspace where laptoppers are most welcome until 3 p.m. The longtime culinary team eschews naming MVPs but eagerly refreshes the menu with dishes such as squash-ricotta toast, and wood-fired lamb lollipops with mustard seed-spiked cherries. Sunday brunch. 512 W 19th St., 949-642-2425, socialcostamesa.com. $$$ TACO M ARÍA ½ Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are fourcourse prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a James Beard nomination for the 2016 chef awards. 18 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

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D A N A P OIN T ENOSTE AK The coast’s most intimate salon for ultrapremium steaks is discreetly tucked just off the lobby at this esteemed resort. Beef—be it grass-fed, grain-fed, bone-in, or dry-aged— is the star of a pithy-if-pricey menu that’s unabashedly loyal. Lavish compound butters to enjoy alongside steaks are a house signature. Opulent sides include silky pureed Yukon Golds. Polished service and often enchanting desserts. Ritz-Carlton Laguna Niguel, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. Closed Monday. $$$ JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN SEE A D OPPOSITE After a long break from O.C. debuts, serial restaurateur David Wilhelm returned in his typically bold way with this 170-seat harborside venue, a spiffy retool complete with ocean breezes. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on comfort classics, steaks, and booze-food snacks. Best bets include burgers. Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. It’s an energetic scene, even at brunch. 25001 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-388-8900. See Brea location. $$ R AYA Steve Wan is the chef de cuisine at this poshbut-relaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience. But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$ SALT CREEK GRILLE Rambling Craftsman architecture and a lovely terraced patio supply a handsome backdrop for mesquite-grilled chophouse favorites and comfort classics. The roomy lounge does a vig-

at this New Agey bistro. A creamy fish-shaped loaf of tofu is unforgettable; so are the spring rolls. Even desserts are healthful, with fruity selections such as Rainbow in the Sky Pie. 16563 Brookhurst St., 714-418-0658. Closed Monday. $$ THE RECESS ROOM Fountain Valley’s first gastropub newly exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball games. Food and booze get equal amounts of love at this cleverly retooled old Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareble noshes by chef de cuisine Sam Green. Think bone marrow mac and cheese, red curry mussels, fried chicken sandwich, veal ravioli, and skirt steak—perfect foils for boozy socializing. Dinner only, though weekend brunch is planned. 18380 Brookhurst St., 714-377-0398. $$$, therecessroom.com

orous business when live music lures coastal partiers too chic for beach dives and too dignified for dance clubs. 32802 Pacific Coast Highway, 949-661-7799. $$ T WO LEF T FORKS ½ California classics draw coastal locals to this family-owned tavern with a bit of gloss. Chef Rob Hines adds lighter options to a savory menu starring a vegetarian poutine, and soysake Alaskan black cod on mushroom-parsnip puree. 34212 Pacific Coast Highway, 949-4898911. Dinner only. Second location in Irvine at 6511 Quail Hill Parkway, 949-387-6700. $$$ WATERM AN’ S HARBOR On Dana Point Harbor’s salt-worn embarcadero, this sleek seafooder offers two floors with scenic views of the breakwater action, including a big, breezy patio shaded from the sun’s rays. Executive chef Steve Kling, formerly of beef bastion Five Crowns, makes the ocean his muse here, while adding turf classics such as Akaushi flank steak escabeche. Fresh oysters are the $1.50-star of happy hour. 34661 Golden Lantern St., 949-764-3474, Sunday brunch. $$$

F OUN TA IN VA L L E Y AU L AC A miraculous menu of traditional Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, without meat or fish, comprises the self-described “humanese” cuisine 20 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

F UL L E R T ON THE CELL AR Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, old-school French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate souffle. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$ E ARLY BIRD ½ Imaginative breakfasts washed down with in-season, single-origin cof fee make this humble hang Fullerton’s sleeper for the foodie crowd. Look for duck confit hash, buckwheat flapjacks with ginger-citrus syrup, or trendy hits like buttermilk fried chicken and waffles, complete with house gravy. 1000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-529-4100. Breakfast and lunch. $$ HOPSCOTCH TAVERN ½ The af fable downtown watering hole is unabashedly keen on booze. Artisan cocktails that feature 140 whiskeys and a choice of 80 craft beers are the axis for a limited menu big on brawny proteins, savory carbs, and fried finger foods. Messy burgers, grilled shrimp, and scallops are reliable and supply a soft landing for hard spirits made for sipping, not swigging. The clever revamp of Fullerton’s 1918 Mission Revival-style Pacific Electric Railway Station feels accessible and low-key. 136 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-871-2222. $$ THE PUBLIC HOUSE ½ Launched by Evans Brewing Co., the oldest brewery in Orange County, this compact storefront is where food, booze, and live music inter-

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

Cereal milk crème brûlée from Recess Room

sect in old Fullerton. Don’t-miss dishes include a fabulous hoecake drizzled with butter, and a brew-worthy burger. Cocktails can disappoint, so stick with the tap selections. 138 W. Commonwealth Ave., 714-870-0039. Dinner only. Closed Monday. $$ SUMMIT HOUSE Set high above Fullerton’s northern city limits, this imposing Tudor manor house offers

a sparkling city-lights view at night, though the attractive grounds are pretty by day, too. The American menu offers few surprises; British-style prime rib and oak-grilled Skuna Bay salmon are reliable. Polished service brings back plenty of special-occasion diners. The cozy tavern bar is popular for light meals and happy hour. 2000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714671-4111. $$$

THESE CHAINS GET KUDOS Many big-name restaurants lure us with special fare. Here are five upscale multiples with dishes we can’t quit. FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR

Lasagna goes lean with long planks of zucchini subbing for pasta in the hearty Spaghetti Squash Casserole topped with a blanket of bubbling cheese.

R&D KITCHEN

SUSHI ROKU

BANDERA

Ding’s Crispy Chicken Sandwich is overtaking the long-popular Rubenesque as the sandwich of your dreams from this meticulous shop that rarely misses. Do splurge on the dreamy deviled eggs.

The sole O.C. branch of flashy L.A-based Sushi Roku delivers tasty peoplewatching, dramatic decor, and sophisticated Cal-Japanese creations. Blue crab with uni and caviar BELOW, lures you in, luscious flavors bring you back.

Avoid the iron-skillet cornbread if you want to stay hungry for the juicy Campfire Ribeye with blue cheese tomatoes. It’s the bravura steak you never saw coming, from a neighborhood sleeper.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

Forget a no-brainer pricey steak and book a Sunday Prime Rib dinner, a royal feast with a choice of sauces, salads, and desserts for an impressive $43. Bloody-rare middle to crispy end cut, it’s your call.

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN

22 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

A Culinary World Unto Itself Food, Friends and Flavor in Harmony

Daily Breakfast Buffet

Lunch

Craft Beer Specials at Happy Hour

Prime Rib Weekends

Courtyard Dining

325 Bristol St. (at Ayres Hotel & Suites) Costa Mesa, CA 92626 (714) 549-0300 x406 email: reservations@lechateaurestaurant.com

G A RDE N GR O V E TUSC A The Hyatt’s 17-story atrium lobby is home to this stylish, sinuous ristorante that’s fairly unknown. Executive chef Sayed Moalemi presides over a menu that starts with morning fritattas, moves to pizzas, antipasto platters, and fresh pastas for dinner. Hyatt Regency Orange County, 11999 Harbor Blvd., 714-740-6047. $$

HUN T ING T ON BE A C H BLK E ARTH SE A SPRITS The tourist crowd is mixed with locals yearround at this second-floor spot with magnetic beach view. Chef Jesus Munoz’s photo-ready dishes also deliver the satisfaction that builds a fan base for Prime Akaushi steaks and huge Australian lobster tails at the expected steep prices. Attentive service always makes a fat tab go down easier. Garage parking is a huge plus during summers in Surf City. 300 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-960-0996. $$$ BLUEGOLD ½ Pacific City’s glassy, glossy 230-venue delivers the paint-box sunsets sought by tourists, date-nighters, and special-occasion splurgers looking to dine with a dazzling view. Alas, Blackhouse Hopitality’s firt O.C. effort tackles a disparate menu of American fare, from steaks to steam kettles to Nea-style pizza--even oysters and charcuterie. Local vet Tin Vuong oversees a promising kitchen that is sometimes over its head. Solid bets include pizzas, bouillabaisse, lamb meatballs, and duck confit Milanese. 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-0038. Breakfast until late night. $$$ CUCINA ALESSÁ Despite the exit of its founding chef, this twostory trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes that still attract a loyal following for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 520 Main St., 714-969-2148. See Newport Beach location. $$ DUKE ’ S Jammed on summer weekends, this pier-side hangout is named for Hawaiian surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku. Grilled fish and steaks are fine for Saturday nights, but the kitchen excels at tasty fish tacos, macadamia nut hummus, and burgers with Kennebec chips. Monday’s happy hour is from 3:30 to 6:30 p.m. 317 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-6446. Sunday brunch. $$ 24 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

FISH C A MP From Sam King of the King’s Fish House fleet comes this overtly dressed-down seafood cantina at the northern edge of coastal O.C. Order from the counter and await delivery of straightforward classics such as pristine oysters, ahi poke, Idaho trout, and crab galore. Sandwiches, skewers, and worthy clam chowders also recommended. 16600 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-592-2267. $$ RED TABLE ½ The “red” in Red Table, Huntington Harbour mall’s neighborhood tavern, stands for “relax, eat, drink.” The creative menu of American eats is big on high-carb snacks, savory share plates, and strapping proteins that feel right in a welcoming setting accented with quirky design elements and a red communal table. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 16821 Algonquin St., 714-846-4700. Beer and wine. $$ SE ASALT WOODFIRE GRILL A modern steakhouse in the tradition of the Central Coast’s live-fire grilling, SeaSalt is the companion restaurant to nearby SeaLegs Wine Bar. Tri-tip cooked over smoldering red oak is the dish to get here, though the steaks and even the grilled chicken offer stiff competition. Don’t overlook the vegetable-driven sides or the lovely shrimp cocktail. 21214 Beach Blvd., 714-804-5545. Closed Monday. Dinner weeknights, weekend brunch. $$ SHADES RESTAUR ANT & BAR Chef Ben LaFleche showcases the bounty of Southern California by emphasizing farmers market goods of the moment. Relaxed elegance is the flavor here, and you never forget you’re in a seaside resort thanks to patios, palms, and roaring fire pits. Weekends, the adjacent lounge cranks up the vibe with live entertainment. Hilton Waterfront Beach Resort, 21100 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-8000. $$$ SLOW FISH Easily missed in a strip mall along busy Bolsa Chica, this slightly hip storefront serves distinctly modern Cal-Asian fare, artfully plated by chef Sean An. Don’t miss the signature Fat Avo appetizer or entrée of braised short rib over black rice. Good sakes, great prices, and a teensy sushi bar are unexpected extras. 16051 Bolsa Chica St., 714-846-6951. $$ WATERTABLE Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tip-top craft cocktails, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of longtime chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point. We return just

DINNER with a view

Panoramic Ocean Views Complimentary Valet Parking Mediterranean Inspired Cuisine Alfresco Dining 9 4 9 . 2 3 4 .3 9 0 0 MONARCHBEACHRESORT.COM/AVEO

Announcing

OPENING FEBRUARY, 2018

949-234-3900 • MONARCHBEACHRESORT.COM

for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. Sunday Suppers are a genius sub for brunch. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IR V INE ANDREI’ S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCK TAILS ½ Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro Gomez steps up to replace his longtime boss Yves Fournier. So far, the menu retains favorites such as the lamb spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. Closed Sundays. $$ BISTANGO A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and American Kobe beef sliders and black truffle ravioli. Bistango also is a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. Closed Sunday. $$$ 26 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

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Pappardelle with short ribs and Parmigiano from Cucina Enoteca

CUCINA ENOTEC A ½ Chef de cuisine Tony Trujillo captains this 285seat operation from San Diego’s Urban Kitchen Group. With two sprawling patios and one huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, the scene oozes upscale chic with scads of handmade furnishings for sale. The CalItal menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to handmade pastas and grilled Berkshire pork. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$ E ATS KITCHEN & BAR ½ SEE A D ON PAGE 15 Choose the attractive, fire-pit patio for best ambience at Irvine’s on-trend boutique hotel restaurant. The all-day kitchen helmed by executive chef Jeff Moore offers modern California cuisine with a seasonal emphasis. Star dishes include meatball fritters, local swordfish sandwich, smoked salmon salad, and house-smoked baby back ribs. Happy hour is hours long, with deep discounts on snacks, craft beers, and cocktails. Kids under 12 eat dinner free. Hotel Irvine, 17900 Jamboree Road, 949-225-6780. $$ IZ AK AYA WASA From the wizards behind popular Wasa sushi comes this sleek, authentic izakaya at the Spectrum, ideal for noshing Japanese comfort nibbles at lunch or after a movie, or tossing back sakes and brews. 511 Spectrum Center Drive, 949453-9500. $$ JAVIER’ S C ANTINA & GRILL Sipping margaritas made with premium tequilas and fresh lime juice, and dining on steaks or seafood amid the glamorous resort-style decor is like a little trip to Baja. You’ll find combos, salsa with a kick, and creamy guacamole, but go for the signature spinach enchiladas in an emerald-green pasilla sauce. The Irvine Spectrum location is buzzy and busy. 536 Fortune Drive, 949-872-2101. See Newport Coast location. $$ MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’ S This urbane fish house is renowned for its copious menu of immaculately fresh seafood, simply prepared. Citified surroundings and snappy service attract an executive crowd, especially for sweet deals at happy hour. Terrific oldschool cocktails are a specialty, as are microbrews on tap in the Pilsner Room. 2000 Main St., 949-756-0505. $$ NORTH ITALIA Rich, intense flavors, discerning techniques, and a modern mindset make North Italia, from Fox Restaurant Concepts, a chain that easily beats some indies out there. Sunny by day and

O.C. Eats Ť Or a nge Coa st 27

C H E F PA I R I N G S OLD VINE CAFÉ

H A N N A’ S Rancho Santa Margarita

PA R K AV E

THE WINERY

Stanton

Newport Beach, Tustin

Costa Mesa Chef-owner Mark McDonald suggests the 2014 Penville Grenache Chingon Ballard Canyon with his rosemaryinfused Duck Leg Confit with dried cherry grenache reduction.

The restaurant’s Asian Braised Short Ribs with edamameginger purée and Fresno chile pairs beautifully with the 2013 Frisby Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Paso Robles, says General Manager Mandy Graniere.

28 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

Chef-partner and recent winemaker David Slay pairs his 2014 Slay Pinot Noir Santa Rita Hills with Seared Wild Scallops, grainy mustard sauce, and seasonal vegetables picked from Park Ave’s garden.

Chef-partner Yvon Goetz’s signature ZinfandelBraised Prime Beef Short Ribs with pearl couscous, ABOVE, is paired with 2013 Frisby Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

Top chefs suggest dishes to complement a local bottle on their wine list. by Gretchen Kurz

stylish at night, the voluminous room’s high ceiling and open plan manages to feel more intimate than its 280- to 300-seat capacity, though it’s perpetually packed. Aim for the artisan-style pizzas, fresh house-made pastas, short rib with polenta, farm salad, and bombolini dessert. 2957 Michelson Drive, 949629-7060. $$ SEE A D ON PAGE 17 OAK CREEK CAFE

Oak Creek Cafe is an ideal spot to relax before or after your game at Oak Creek Golf Club. Dine indoors by the rustic fireplace or outdoors on the scenic patio. Open for breakfast and lunch, the cuisine is American with breakfast favorites, fresh soups and salads, sandwiches, and burgers. $, 1 Golf Club Drive, 949-653-5330

PAUL M ARTIN’ S A MERIC AN GRILL ½ A major player at the Spectrum in Irvine, this inviting 295-seat venue offers a plain-spoken, single-page carte of highly seasonal American dishes. Sunday dinner deal on Prime rib, and Monday $60 wine dinner for two. 534 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-453-1144. $$ PUESTO ½ SEE A D ON PAGE 5 San Diego’s high-profile taqueria plants its first flag on O.C. soil at this flashy venue in Los Olivos Marketplace. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, especially good on vegetarian tacos, and hand-made tortillas of organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. Ask about executive creative chef Katy Smith’s monthly taco special. Puesto is popular with large groups, so expect some noise besides the energetic soundtrack. 8577 Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. RUTH’ S CHRIS STE AK HOUSE Sizzling Prime steaks, wet-aged from 24 to 28 days, are served topped with big pats of butter and chopped parsley. Founder Ruth Fertel grew up in New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2961 Michelson Drive, 949-252-8848. See Anaheim location. $$$ SA M WOO RESTAUR ANT Many don’t know this reasonably priced, no-frills place is not named after someone called Sam Woo—the term actually refers to the Chinese notion of harmony. Yanked-from-the-tank seafood is a specialty, as are dim sum and Hong Kong noodle dishes. Service is reliably speedy and brusque. For even faster carry-out meals, try the express buffet next door. 15333 Culver Drive, 949-262-0688. Wine and beer. $

TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily agua frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-505-6080. See Newport Beach location. $$ TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY ½ For more than a decade, Taps has been a landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pastas, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 13390 Jamboree Road, 714-619-0404. See Brea location. $$ WASA SUSHI James Hamamori attained stardom at this striking sushi salon in The Marketplace, and though he has moved on, scrupulously fresh fish ensures the place is always overflowing with devotees of elevated handmade delights. Nice selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. 13124 Jamboree Road, 714-665-3338. Wine and beer. See Newport Coast location. $$ ZOV ’ S Another attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin, this go-to cafe lures locals with creative choices for breakfast, lunch, light dinners, and meals to go. Desserts are a standout and so is the delightful patio. 3915 Portola Parkway, 714-7349687. See Newport Coast and Tustin locations. $$

L A GUN A BE A C H ALESSÁ ½ This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a prosciutto-and-mozzarella bar with primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic producers, hand-sliced to order. 234 Forest Ave., 949497-8222. $$ BROADWAY BY A M AR SANTANA Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie Palmer to create this urban bistro in the nattily restyled Five Feet space. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar. Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half bottles. 328 Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$ O.C. Eats Ť Or a nge Coa st 29

BRUSSELS BISTRO Loud and lively, this bistro brings a bit of Belgium to Orange County, with traditional beers on tap and an authentic menu. Stick with the tasty burger on rustic bread, or the bucket of mussels, served with the requisite frites. 222 Forest Ave., 949-376-7955. $$ CARMELITA’ S KITCHEN DE MEXICO This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer topnotch Cal-Mex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente Heredia Jr.. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas. Warm, spiffy service. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829. See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$ COYOTE GRILL A great scenic stop on your weekend drive down Coast Highway, Coyote Grill is a Mexican-American diner with a million-dollar view. For brunch, choose from breakfast burritos, chilaquiles, and huevos rancheros. Dinners range from fried chicken to lobster tacos and tamales. The food is serviceable, but the experience is like a minivacation. 31621 S. Coast Highway, 949-499-4033. $$ 30 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

Margaritas from Carmelita’s Kitchen de Mexico

DRIF T WOOD KITCHEN SEE A D ON PAGE 45 With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versusview gamble. Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft cocktails also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949-715-7700. $$ E VA’ S C ARIBBE AN KITCHEN Start with a fruity rum drink or just a shot (choose from 477 rums), then move on to curry chicken at this charming, sometimes crowded cottage in South Laguna. Indulge in a dessert, too: chocolate bread pudding or Key lime pie loaded with whipped cream. 31732 S. Coast Highway, 949-499-6311. Dinner only. Closed Monday. $$ L AS BRISAS ½ Equal parts history, view, and food, Las Brisas (The Breezes) endures as a coastal landmark locals can’t resist for showing off the best view in Laguna Beach. Whether it’s for margaritas at sunset or a leisurely Sunday brunch, the veteran dining room team generally handles high-volume crowds with poise. Gazpacho and fresh Alaskan halibut are good bets. Breakfast and even Sunday brunch are good values. The active patio bar fills to capacity in summer. 361 Cliff Drive, 949-497-5434. Reservations recommended. $$$ THE LOF T Part of the fun of dining at the posh Montage Laguna Beach is a spectacular ocean view, and this restful aerie delivers that view with style. The well-edited menu features refined fare by chef de cuisine Michael Campbell made from prime, seasonal goods with coastal flavors. Always leave room for nibbles from the inimitable cheese gallery boasting the area’s best selection of elite cheeses with from-scratch condiments. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 30801 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-6420. $$$ LUMBERYARD ½ Veteran local restaurateur Cary Redfearn brought new life to this downtown landmark with a tasteful remodel, welcoming bar, and comfort classics such as meatloaf and chicken potpie that lure tourists and villagers alike. Look for a solid happy hour. 384 Forest Ave., 949-715-3900. $$ MOZ A MBIQUE The eclectic cuisine shows influences of Portugal, South Africa, and California. Peri-peri prawns, South African curries, and grilled

meats are best bets. The wine list includes interesting selections from South Africa and New Zealand. 1740 S. Coast Highway, 949-7157777. $$$ NE APOLITAN PIZZERIA & BIRRERIA ½ All about pizza worship and emphatically Italian, right down to the Molino San Felice flour and the glossy red Stefano Ferrara wood-fire oven imported from Italy. These pies—bubbling hot in the middle with a puffy, spotted ring of crust—require a knife and fork. Don’t ignore the cadre of small plates that includes a terrific chopped salad and dandy meatballs the size of softballs. 31542 S. Coast Highway, 949-499-4531. Beer and wine. $$ NICK’ S Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grownups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-8595. See San Clemente location. No corkage. $$

SEE A D ON PAGE 57 N I R VA N A G R I L L E

Nirvana Grille is committed to offering delicious food and impeccable service, serving sustainable California cuisine, organic free-range poultry, plus vegetarian and vegan options. Dinner only. $$, 303 Broadway, Suite 101, 949-497-0027

SAPPHIRE L AGUNA Chef-owner Azmin Ghahreman satisfies locals and visitors with globally inspired large and small plates at lunch, dinner, and brunch. The adventurous go for the noshy “spice plates.” The cottage chic setting is a nod to its historic Pottery Shack predecessor, with huge patio and airy dining room open to ocean breezes. 1200 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$ SEL ANNE STE AK TAVERN Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this stylish upscale steak joint in the vastly retooled French 75 space. Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef Josh Severson’s menu, designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and wallet. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, a great burger, and world-class people-watch-

O.C. Eats Ť Or a nge Coa st 31

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32 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

UP ON THE ROOF Hidden views of Pacific waves, majestic fireworks, or classic tequila sunsets are an elevator ride away. i At Paséa Hotel & Spa in

i S K Y L O F T muscles in

i T H E F I F T H , the lounge

Huntington Beach, one floor above Tanner’s Restaurant, is T R E E H O U S E L O U N G E , LEFT. Drinks are pricey and strong at the circular bar under a canopy of rattan baskets that glow after dark.

on Laguna Beach’s sunsetview circuit atop the historic Heisler building. Craft cocktails riff on the coastal scene. Salt air making you hungry? The fare is American, and house-smoked meats are the star.

on top of Anaheim’s Grand Legacy at The Park hotel, delivers the finest view of nightly Disneyland fireworks from outside the park. Solid cocktails and happy hour deals are your other reasons to visit.

ing. 1464 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. Closed Monday. $$$ SPL ASHES RESTAUR ANT ½ Easily one of our coast’s top resort options for a surf’s-edge indulgence, this contemporary dining room and lounge are famed for pricey romantic meals and sunset drinks. Ron Fougeray is executive chef. A stunning Pacific view dazzles, as does Fougeray’s five-star resume that includes a James Beard nomination. Expect seasonal, coastal fare the likes of albacore tartare with pickled butternut squash, and olive oil-poached King salmon with forbidden rice risotto. Ask for lower-level patio seating and you might feel spray off the crashing waves. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. Surf & Sand Resort, 1555 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-2779. $$$ STARFISH ½ Locals and escaped Montage resort guests slip in for seaside cuisine with an Asian inflection at this Coast Highway venue. The dusky digs and sexy ’tude make it a good stop for appetizers and craft cocktails. Ample free parking is a plus. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 30832 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9200. $$$ STUDIO Executive chef Craig Strong brings his considerable talents to Montage resort’s ocean-view fine-dining venue. The bluf f-top, Craf tsman-style bungalow offers wraparound Pacific vistas. And Strong’s elegant menu celebrates the seasons with modern French cooking using premium California goods from artisan purveyors. The nightly chef’s tasting menu and a notable wine collection add to the élan at this posh

pick for ultimate occasions. Montage, 30801 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-6030. $$$ THREE SE VENT Y COMMON ½ Confident chef-owner Ryan Adams runs this straightforward bistro with rich, hearty eats prepared with local goods. Lots of small and share plates dominate a menu that ranges from steamed clams to poutine to bacon-y meatloaf with wild mushroom gravy. Three-course fried chicken dinners served family style the last Sunday of the month. Low-key but capable service. 370 Glenneyre St., 949-494-8686. Dinner only. $$ TOMMY BAHA M A BAR & GRILL Unrated The nifty retool of the Heisler Building on Coast Highway lends a local vibe to this outpost of the beachy lifestyle boutique-bar-bistro mashup. Smack dab in the heart of town, this breezy spot is an easy detour for tourists and locals alike, offering handcrafted cocktails and savory noshes. The American menu is not a clone of the Newport Beach sibling. 400 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-6886. See Newport Beach location. $$ 230 FOREST AVENUE ½ Lagunatics and sightseers mingle at this lively open-air cafe, where the martinis are as popular as the modern California cuisine. Noisy, cramped quarters are overlooked once the waiter brings your day boat scallops. Primo people-watching from the tables fronting one of the village’s busiest sidewalks. 230 Forest Ave., 949-494-2545. $$$ WATERM ARC ½ Local chef Marc Cohen (230 Forest Avenue, Opah) puts his name out front (sort of) at O.C. Eats Ť Or a nge Coa st 33

this welcoming Coast Highway bistro with a fun menu that suits adventurous grazers and satisfies locals’ cravings for a killer burger. An affordable wine program allows for carafe servings, and cocktails show respect for the old and new. 448 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-6272. $$

L A GUN A HIL L S BRE AK OF DAWN Fine-dining chef Dee Nguyen never looked back when he escaped five-star kitchens to create this daytime diner serving wildly creative comfort fare with Asian inflections. Whether sweet—French toast crème brulee with Mexican chocolate—or savory—Hawaiian sausage with fried eggs, scallions, green papaya, and rice—the result is spellbinding. 24291 Avenida De La Carlota, 949-587-9418. Closed Monday, Tuesday. $$ IRONWOOD ½ The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with beech mushrooms, Zinfandel-braised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. Dinner only. 25250 La Paz Road, 949446-8772, ironwoodlagunahills.com. $$$

L A GUN A NIGUEL HENDRIX ½ SEE A D ON PAGE 43 Teeming with natural light and coastal breezes, Hendrix swaggers into Laguna Niguel with a place that promises something for everyone in this option-lean suburb. It’s from the group behind Laguna Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, and partner Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz is executive chef. A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds, and chicken-fontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-248-1912. Weekend brunch. $$

L A H A BR A THE C AT & THE CUSTARD CUP There aren’t many options in La Habra, but this reliable English-themed tavern charms, with 34 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

fireplaces, a cozy bar, and smiling service. It’s the de facto choice for finer dining in the city. The California fare is modern, accessible, and changes with the seasons. Owned by the same family behind The Cannery and El Cholo. 800 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-694-3812. Closed Monday. $$ EL CHOLO It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg. Green corn tamales (available seasonally) have achieved cult status. This location oozes a family vibe. 840 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-691-4618. See Anaheim Hills and Corona del Mar locations. $

L A K E F ORE S T BRÜ GRILL & M ARKET Ambitious, with 245 seats, this suburban indie goes all in for craft and microbrews, memorable cocktails, and pub food: a killer artisan sausage platter, Prince Edward Island mussels, and top-tier charcuterie. Entrees can be hit or miss, though the bone-in pork chop is a triumph. Drinks, and brews (25 on tap), outshine the wine list. The onsite market retails wine, cheese, and other menu items. 23730 El Toro Road, 949-305-5757. $$

L O S A L A MI T O S SHENANDOAH AT THE ARBOR American regional comfort food with a Southern appeal is reason to visit this sweet family-owned cottage with lovely, tree-canopied garden seating in back. This cozy spot satisfies when the craving calls for Granny’s fried chicken, or country-fried pork chops. Commendable gumbo and fried green tomatoes, too. 10631 Los Alamitos Blvd., 562-431-1990. Wine and beer. $$

MI S SION V IE JO DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and oldschool fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$

SEE A D ON PAGE 31 O ’ N E I L L’ S B A R & G R I L L

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WINEWORKS FOR E VERYONE This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949582-0026. Wine and beer. Dinner only. Closed Monday. $$$

NE W P OR T BE A C H A&O KITCHEN + BAR ½ A serious reboot of this fabled lounge—formerly Duke’s—transforms this waterside venue into a gastropub with a newly youthful vibe. Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceansâ€? theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’s-edge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-630-4285. Live entertainment Friday and Saturday. $$ A RESTAUR ANT This sexy old-school hangout rarely wants for business, thanks to longtime executive chef Jon Blackford and his constant retooling of American classics made with hard-to-find premium goods. The stellar burger is not on the menu or always available, but go ahead and ask. Dessert fans swoon over fresh-baked corn madeleines with cream and berries. The inimitable Shelly Register oversees gourmet sandwiches and

Corona del Mar’s English Gastropub Award-winning food, world-class spirits, craft beer and wine ights. Cozy up to a ďŹ replace and enjoy. 3801 E Coast Highway, Corona del Mar 92625 | 949.717.4322 | SideDoorCDM.com

O.C. Eats Ť Or a nge Coa st 35

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

36 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

VEGGIE BURGERS You won’t miss the meat with these delectable renditions THE PLACE

THE BURGER

GENIUS ELEMENT

Freesoulcaffe, Tustin

The savory Hatch gets its zip from house-made vegan jalapeno cheese, hatch chile relish, and sriracha aioli. Green salad on the side

Delectable, house-made, proprietary patty

Gratitude, Newport Beach

The Magical, left —a black-bean patty on a tender, gluten-free bun—is the delicious sum of its parts: cashew macadamia cheddar, tomato, red onion, and chipotle ketchup. Side of fries

Crispy edge around the vegan patty

Active Culture, San Clemente

The BBQ burger layers a house-made, vegan, lentil patty with avocado, carrots, onions, and mixed greens on a buttery sesame wheat bun. Side of tortilla chips

Savory, house-made BBQ beet sauce

The Counter, Irvine and Newport Beach

The Vegan Veggie patty is packed with black beans, brown rice, corn kernels, and mushrooms. There are 70-plus toppings available including our favorite, a fried egg.

Fully customizable

Seabirds Kitchen, Costa Mesa

The vegan Beets Me Burger’s house-made shiitake, beet, and chia patty holds up under grilled red onion, arugula, dill pickles, and herb mayo. Side of fries

A gooey layer of almond butter

to-go goodies at A Market next door. 3334 W. Coast Highway, 949-650-6505. Dinner only. $$$ BACK BAY BISTRO Though you won’t see ocean waves, waterfront seating on the quiet bay abounds at this relaxed venue inside the Newport Dunes Resort. A broad Euro-Cal menu keeps the resort crowd happy, while improved wines and slick details such as a retracting roof and valet parking lure the locals. 1131 Back Bay Drive, 949-7291144. Closed Monday. $$$ BAYSIDE Bayside’s makeover injects its harbor-side location with fresh energy. Veteran Paul Gstrien remains top chef, but look for expanded Prime beef offerings. Long-favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in Friday night for a fine jazz session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a draw. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$

BLUEWATER GRILL SE AFOOD RESTAUR ANT Classic rich chowder, grilled trout, and fried clams share the daily menu with modern dishes such as zesty cioppino and mahi-mahi sliders with jalapeno aioli. Executive chef Jason Mazur and a seasoned crew smoothly shifts from icy platters of just-shucked oysters, to salt-and-pepper shrimp. The menu boasts seasonal specials as well. 630 Lido Park Drive, 949675-3474. See Tustin location. No corkage. $$ C ANALET TO From the cognoscenti of Il Fornaio, this is the perfect SoCal vision of an upscale Italian trattoria. The big draws are the fresh-baked breads, pizzas, pastas, and risotto dishes. Don’t miss the bigoli alla Padovana with big strands of perciatelli and the bold flavors of house-made sausage mingled with porcini mushrooms. 545 Newport Center Drive, 949-640-0900. $$ O.C. Eats Ť Or a nge Coa st 37

THE C ANNERY The 1921 landmark structure has been dazzling diners for more than 50 years with its waterfront site, pristine seafood, and top chops. New executive chef Philip Tangonan keeps the menu relevant by adding new dishes, say baked Peruvian scallops, to classics such as the trusted lobster roll. Also new: The Snug, a cozy bar downstairs, carved from the main dining room. Dockside dining offered for boaters. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 3010 Lafayette Road, 949-566-0060. Sunday brunch. $$$ CUCINA ALESSÁ Despite the exit of its founding chef, this trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes that still attract a loyal following for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast frittatas. 6700 W. Coast Highway, 949-645-2148. See Huntington Beach location. $$ CUCINA ENOTEC A ½ Chef de cuisine Cesar Sarmiento helms the busy scratch kitchen of this Fashion Island sibling. The sprawling, lively space with its alluring garden room, hip cocktails, and fun wines supports inventive takes on classic pastas, cured meats, and creative breads. Like the Irvine location, this venue offers a retail wine boutique and lots of quirky-chic furnishings for sale. Daily happy hour is a deal for tony Fashion Island. 951 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-1416. See Irvine location. $$ 38 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

Early dinner at Fig & Olive

FIG & OLIVE ½ Soak up the luxury of Cannes at Fashion Island’s stylish “import” that brims with beautiful people. Ingredient-driven dishes, made with local and seasonal fare and a global palette of olive oils, are more classic French-Mediterranean than trailblazing. Stunning dining rooms lend even business lunches a leisurely feel. Best dishes include chicken tagine with figs and olives, plus the creative, costly cocktails. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 151 Newport Center Drive, 949-877-3005. $$$ FLEMING’ S PRIME STE AKHOUSE & WINE BAR ½ Select dry-aged steaks are a notable menu upgrade at this red meat specialist with a welcome array of seafood starters. The stellar happy hour is one of Fashion Island’s most popular. Another house signature: an all-star wine list with more than 100 choices by the glass. 455 Newport Center Drive, 949-720-9633. Dinner, Sunday brunch. $$$ GR ATITUDE ½ This gourmet organic-vegan restaurant is the most boho-fabulous Gratitude sibling yet, and the first in O.C. A splendid patio lures diners of any dietary stripe to explore the flavor-driven, plant-based cuisine of chef Dreux Ellis and sample organic cocktails by L.A. bartending star Jason Eisner. Tasty examples include yamand cauliflower-filled samosas topped with spicy tomato jam, and the bourbon Old Fashioned with a family secret cola recipe. Coldpressed juices and a gluten-free bakery round out the many offerings here. 1617 Westcliff Drive, 949-386-8100. $$ GULFSTRE A M Heavenly biscuits, baked to order, and pristine oysters, shucked to order (in season), are two reasons to visit this popular bar and restaurant. The sand-floor patio with glowing fire pit attracts singles, while the ocean-fresh fare draws foodies. If freshly caught seafood doesn’t appeal, there’s always terrestrial dishes such as mustard barbecue beef ribs. 850 Avocado Ave., 949-718-0188. No corkage. $$$ HARBORSIDE RESTAUR ANT One of O.C.’s most iconic landmarks, the 1906 Balboa Pavilion still lures visitors to its harbor view, and celebrants to its sweeping ballroom for special events and weddings galore. Expect a safe menu of all-American classics. Locals love that happy hour starts at 11 a.m. 400 Main St., 949-673-4633. $$ JULIET TE KITCHEN & BAR ½ In the former Tradition by Pascal location, the revamped space hums with locals happy to

find an accessible haunt where food is king, wine is queen, and prices are fair. Executive chef Daniel Hyatt’s menu of small and large plates is hyperseasonal, but count on a luscious burger at lunch, proteins plated with compelling sides, and an enticing farro risotto. Imaginative desserts, too, and the attached wine boutique stocks some notable finds. 1000 Bristol St. N., 949-752-5854. Closed Sunday. $$$ MOULIN ½ Moulin is the passion project of Paris native Laurent Vrignaud. After 30 years in the actionsports industry, he lives his longtime dream of serving bistro classics, selling oven-fresh baguettes and grab-and-go dishes, and peddling wines and other French pantry items. The unfussy bistro and patio evoke Paris at every turn. Best bets include the Tuesday $29 prix fixe dinner, and enticing salads and Napoleons from the pastry case. It’s O.C.’s gathering spot for expats and Francophiles. 1000 Bristol St. North, 949-474-0920. A second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach, 248 Forest Ave., 949-715-6990. $$ OAK GRILL SEE A D ON PAGE 13 The Island Hotel’s dining venue is a relaxedbut-upscale destination for modern Ameri-

39 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

can fare of the season. The kitchen, headed by Peter Lai, holds its own with thoughtful treatment of classics that include fried chicken cobb salad, and grilled pork chop with smoked cherries and pork belly risotto. Patio lunching on creative salads under the majestic ficus trees is an Orange County moment. Pastry chef Andy de la Cruz is exceptional. Island Hotel, 690 Newport Center Drive, 949-760-4920. $$$ PIZZERIA MOZZ A This is the O.C. outpost of the rustic, reverent Italian cuisine brought so smashingly to L.A. in 2006 by luminaries Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton, and Joe Bastianich. Picture-perfect pizzas with heady toppings, delightful antipastos, high-comfort al forno dishes, and A+ desserts attract eager crowds to this simple, boxy space. Local beers, Italian wines, and a full bar. Don’t miss the cauliflower fritti, caprese salad, and any pizza with pork. Butterscotch budino is a gold rush, too. 800 W. Coast Highway, 949-945-1126. $$$ PROVENANCE ½ Chef-owner-dreamer Cathy Pavlos rekindles her farm-to-fork childhood at this ambitious Eastbluff venue that includes a tricked-out kitchen and bar, and a 1,300-square-foot organic garden. Everyone wants a patio seat

BRUNCH DRINKS

under slatted cedar eaves, where the scent of flourishing plants mixes with breezes off Back Bay. Heeding the seasons means an ever-changing menu, though some favorites stick around. Tops for now are the carnitas breakfast tacos, New Zealand lamb chops, and killer turkey meatloaf sandwich. 2531 Eastbluff Drive, 949-718-0477. $$$ RED O ½ Chicago’s Rick Bayless expands his empire by attaching his brand and recipes to this grand and handsome Fashion Island venue. Alas, the pricey fare doesn’t achieve the culinary distinction we expect from Bravo’s top chef master. Service is gracious and the yellowtail aquachile is lovely, but in a county brimming with excellent Mexican options, this 250-seater feels designed for deep-pocketed tourists. 143 Newport Center Drive, 949-718-0300. $$$ ROY ’ S Diners look forward to local Hawaiian-Asian favorites such as stylish sushi, misoyaki butterfish, and the ever-popular melting-hot choc-

olate souffle. The seasonal three-course prix fixe meal is a value at $59. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 453 Newport Center Drive, 949-640-7697. See Anaheim location. $$$ SABATINO’ S LIDO SHIPYARD SAUSAGE CO. Peter Sabatino used to deliver his mom’s sausages door to door in Chicago. Now customers come to him in Newport Beach, where he sells 300 to 400 pounds a day from his restaurant. The old-school Italian menu and comfy patio make it a relaxing spot for first dates or family dinners of pastas, seafood, and, of course, dishes loaded with his secret-recipe sausages. 251 Shipyard Way, 949-723-0621. Beer and wine. Weekend brunch. $$ SESSIONS Calling itself a “West Coast deli,” this peninsula shop crafts sandwiches that eat like a meal for two. Gourmet creations with kooky names— Greatfella, Baller, and Wake & Bake—are towering stacks made with top ingredients. Soups, sides, and dressings are made from scratch. A

When a mimosa doesn’t do the trick, try something with a little more kick.

40 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

MAIA DE COCO

MENDOZA MOJITO

Juliette Kitchen and Bar, Newport Beach

The Loft, Montage Laguna Beach Resort

This cool and creamy concoction features banana almond milk, crème de cacao, vodka, egg white, coconut syrup, and nutmeg.

A spicy shichimi togarashi rim is balanced with cool mint, Bacardi Silver rum, pineapple juice, malbec, club soda, and lime.

surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts starring Kéan coffee. 2823 Newport Blvd., 949-2209001. Second location in Huntington Beach at 414 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. $ SOL COCINA Fresh, spunky flavors of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula lure the coastal crowd to this bayside cantina. Cookbook author and executive chef Deborah Schneider focuses on local seafood and meat dishes, plus street tacos jazzed up with house-made salsas and dreamy guacamoles. A kickin’ bar with crackling fireplace serves tasty cocktails, many made from scores of artisan tequilas. 251 E. Coast Highway, 949675-9800. $$$ SUSHI ROKU SEE A D ON BACK COV ER

The sixth location of this L.A.-based Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare,

WAT E R M E L O N CUCUMBER M A R G A R I TA Provenance, Newport Beach The fruity summer drink features a hand-carved block of ice, reposado tequila, lime, basil, and a sprinkle of Hawaiian black lava salt.

Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$ TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas and housemade churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the Oaxacan enchiladas or portobello quesadillas. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949-720-0980. See Irvine location. $$ TOMMY BAHA M A ISL AND GRILLE Ongoing nips and tucks keep this perennial favorite sharp. The fare remains reliably coastal and fresh. This is a great place to meet for a drink, too, with offerings such as hibiscus Key lime cocktails and trendy scratch concoctions. Save room for the piña colada cake. Beguiling patio seating. 854 Avocado Ave., 949760-8686. See Laguna Beach location. $$

WHITE GIRL L AT T E Social, Costa Mesa This organic nitro cold brew from Costa Mesabased Thunderking Brewing Company includes cinnamon, salted vanilla, cream, and a splash of vodka.

FA R M E R S MARKET SANGRIA True Food Kitchen, Newport Beach This seasonal refresher is made with spiced brandy, organic Snoqualmie riesling, slices of lime, and pineapple juice.

O.C. Eats Ť Or a nge Coa st 41

F I V E

Q U E S T I O N S

W I T H …

SAIFON PLEWTONG RESTAURANT I CAN’T WAIT TO TRY

The new Taco Mesa in Orange for its GMO-free corn tortilla chips—I love Mexican food!

GUILT Y PLEASURE

BEST ORGANIC DESSERT

FARMERS MARKET FIND

Churros with brown sugar and chocolate sauce at Carmelita’s Kitchen de Mexico

Gratitude’s Key lime pie with creamy avocado custard and coconut meringue

Mangosteen, a combination of lychee and longan, at Irvine’s Mariners Farmers Market

42 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

FAVORITE ORGANIC RESTAURANT

Le Pain Quotidien at Fashion Island. I love the soft-boiled eggs.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

Chef-owner of True Seasons Organic Kitchen in Anaheim

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN Dr. Andrew Weil’s anti-inflammatory food pyramid is translated into a globally varied parade of healthful starters, salads, sandwiches, and entrees, with intriguing cocktails for good measure. We like the chicken chopped salad, and the ginger margarita with honey and flamed orange. Best (and quieter) seats are on the sleek, canopied patio with its lush living wall. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 451 Newport Center Drive, 949-644-2400. $$ WATERLINE ½ A lavish makeover of this venerable fine-dining room updates this yacht-view space with cushy appointments and a seafood-heavy menu from executive chef Rachel Haggstrom. Look for surfand-turf specials and seasonal seafood, boosted with modern preps and local ingredients. Signature appetizer is a soy-paper roll of avocado, lobster, and cucumber. Fans of old-school dining are won over by gracious service, and classy live music on the weekends makes this a nice, if spendy, date-night choice. Balboa Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-645-5000. $$$ WILDFISH SE AFOOD GRILLE ½ Wildfish lures a loyal following. The finely calibrated menu of pristine seafood and first-class

43 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

steaks keeps the glossy room and fireplace patio hopping, especially for nightly happy hour deals when upscale locals crowd the sleek bar. Urbane service. Strong wine list. Note: star rating reflects a former chef. 1370 Bison Ave., 949720-9925. $$$

NE W P OR T C OA S T ANDRE A The deluxe dining room is named for noted Italian architect Andrea Palladio (1508-1580), but the elegant Northern Italian dishes are overseen by head chef Jonah Amodt, newly promoted from sous chef. Fare of note includes hand-made ricotta cavatelli alla norcina with ’nduja (spreadable pork salume) and seasonal truffles. Daily pastas are crafted in a custom drying room, and seasonal produce comes from Irvine Ranch, a sister property. Service is graceful, and the wine list is ripe with Italy’s heavy hitters. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. The Resort at Pelican Hill, 22701 Pelican Hill Road S., 949-467-6800. $$$ BABET TE ’ S ½ Born in East Hampton, this Pacific Coast sibling is the Crystal Cove Shopping Center spot

for noshing in laid-back luxury. Pricey, healthminded American cuisine by executive chefowner Zach Layton juxtaposes vegan fare with indulgent proteins. Tofu fans will delight over the many options, but we can’t stop loving the grass-fed ribeye at dinner. Fresh juice cocktails make creative use of the juice bar with walk-up counter. And the pretty courtyard is popular with ladies who lunch. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 7962 E. Coast Highway, 949-715-9915. $$$ THE BE ACHCOMBER The surf’s edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers, especially in summer. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuf fed salmon. Executive chef Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus that change slightly each season. 15 Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$ BLUEFIN Adroit chef Takashi Abe applies his considerable talents to pristine ingredients he fashions into gorgeous works of edible Japanese art. His omakase is transcendent (and cheaper at lunch). The setting is suitably spare and visually soothing. Superior sake selection. 7952 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 949-715-7373. $$$ SEE A D ON PAGE 11 COLISEUM POOL & GRILL

Enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner made with fresh, seasonal ingredients and served in a magnificent setting surrounding the infinity Coliseum Pool. Whether you dine indoors, on a heated terrace, or in a more private cabana, enjoy Coastal California favorites including thin-crust pizzas, fresh salads, hearty burgers, and sandwiches with international flavors. $, 22701 S. Pelican Hill Road, 844-443-0020

JAVIER’ S C ANTINA & GRILL Sipping margaritas made with premium tequilas and fresh lime juice, and dining on steaks or seafood amid the resort-style decor is like a little trip to Baja. You’ll find combos, salsa with a kick, and creamy guacamole, but go for the signature spinach enchiladas in an emerald-green pasilla sauce. This location has dreamy views of the Pacific. 7832 E. Coast Highway, 949-4941239. See Irvine location. $$ M ASTRO’ S OCE AN CLUB O.C.’s flashiest hipsters gather here to be nursed like they’re bleeding cash. And they are. Megamartinis, obese lobsters, and Bible44 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

thick steaks don’t come cheap, but this dramatic setting does offer the ocean view, and suave service worthy of its position as our finest castle of cholesterol consumption. Thursdays are famed for tournament-level singles action. 8112 E. Coast Highway, 949-376-6990. See South Coast Metro location. $$$ SEE A D ON PAGE 9 PELICAN GRILL & BAR

With an unbeatable ocean view, Pelican Grill is the neighborhood spot where land meets sea and lively meets laid back. Open for lunch, brunch, or dinner, it serves modern American grill favorites such as butcher-cut steaks, hearty burgers, woodfired pizzas, crisp salads, and fresh fish. $, 22800 S. Pelican Hill Road, 844-443-0022

SET TEBELLO ½ Another new player in the Neapolitan-style pizza race, this Crystal Cove spot gets attention as much for its dramatic atrium with indoor olive trees reaching to the open skylights as it does for its blistered brick-oven pies. The fare can’t outshine other nearby first-rate purveyors, but all the Neapolitan qualifications are there, right down to finely milled flour from Naples. The Margherita D.O.C. is the best bet, while the fresh-sliced salumi and warm olives also make a tasty spread. 7864 E. Coast Highway, 949-715-2072. $$ WASA SUSHI James Hamamori cemented his stardom here, but now Satoru Takashima is the chef at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 1346 Bison Ave., 949760-1511. Wine and beer. See Irvine location. $$ ZOV ’ S This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to cafe that lures locals with creative choices for breakfast, lunch, light dinners, and meals to go. Desserts are a standout and so is the delightful patio. 21123 Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Irvine and Tustin locations. $$

OR A NGE FELIX CONTINENTAL C AFÉ Despite the use of canned peas and a menu as old as the Castro regime, this value-conscious cafe remains a cult favorite, serving tra-

ditional Cuban and Spanish foods. A charming spot to sip a café con leche, enjoy a slice of tres leches cake, and watch the world go by. 36 Plaza Square, 714-633-5842. Wine and beer. Weekend breakfast. $ GABBI’ S MEXIC AN KITCHEN Gabbi Patrick grew up working in her family’s Mexican restaurants, then studied at the Greystone Culinary Academy in Napa. The menu reveals her formal training as it embraces her family’s background. With items such as gorditas al pastor (masa cakes with kurobuta pork belly and pineapple-onion relish), Patrick’s plates celebrate simple, honest flavors. 141 S. Glassell St., 714-633-3038. $$ HAVEN GASTROPUB ½ A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Greg Daniels. Best bets: a deft shepherd’s pie and a juicy house burger built on a custom house-ground patty. Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S. Glassell St., 714-221-0680. $$

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THE HOBBIT Gustatory delights worthy of Gatsby attract special-occasion diners to this gracious hacienda, where dinners are seven-course pageants that start with bubbly and nibbles in the wine cellar, and end hours later on the cigar patio. Each night’s menu is set weeks in advance—and so are most reservations. 2932 E. Chapman Ave., 714-997-1972. Dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Reservations required. $$$ PRIME CUT C AFÉ & WINE BAR American comfort cuisine gets a major boost from top-notch ingredients, sophisticated kitchen techniques, and, of course, a wine bar with 100 choices by the taste, glass, or bottle. The dashing digs are casual enough to pair with a movie date next door. 1547 W. Katella Ave., 714-532-4300. $$

PLACENTIA EL FAROLITO Often packed tighter than a taquito, this is a go-to favorite for traditional border fare, served fast and friendly. Pass the wait with an icy Negra Modelo—regulars know to grab one from

the cooler out front. Huevos dishes—rancheros, machaca, chorizo—are popular on weekend mornings, but they’re served all day for late-risers. 201 S. Bradford Ave., 714-993-7880. $ FISH IN A BOT TLE Sleepy Placentia gets some modern chow at this maverick mom-and-pop cafe that supplements California cuisine with elaborate, innovative sushi rolls. If a Tuscan roll with grilled veggies and balsamic reduction doesn’t intrigue, go traditional with the soft-shell crabs with crispy tomato, or seared ahi with squashseed crust. The casual cafe has a sushi bar for purists. 1205 E. Imperial Highway, 714-528-4000. Wine, sake, and beer. $$ SALT & ASH ½ Placentia’s rare choice for hip grub is under new management, with local toque Cody Storts running the kitchen and launching new menu items such as a fresh list of tacos and hearty comfort chow the likes of pancetta mac ’n’ cheese and Cajun shrimp with Parmesan soufflé. For daily brunch, think green mole machaca burrito or brioche French toast. Also new: a full liquor license and bottomless mimosas with any $12 brunch entrée. 1390 N. Kraemer Blvd., 657-444-2701. $$

R A NC HO S A N TA M A RG A RI TA THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahimahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-888-0072. Closed Monday. $$ CARMELITA’ S KITCHEN DE MEXICO This lakefront sprawler offers top-notch CalMex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente Heredia Jr., a third-generation operator. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Outstanding margaritas. Warm, spiffy service. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-709-7600. See Laguna Beach location. $$ PIZZ A E VINO The No. 1 pick in our 2011 pizza survey, this casual pizzeria by the lake is packed with disciples of Neapolitan pies that are authentic right down to the 850-degree wood-fired oven and sauce made with San Marzano tomatoes. Look for 20-plus pizzas, housemade soups, and a first-rate carpaccio of beef 46 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

with quail egg. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-713-1500. Beer and wine. $$

S A N C L E ME N T E BRICK The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino Real, 949-429-1199. $$ IVA LEE ’ S Unrated Deep South and down-home despite the modern exterior, the Southern-Creole eats here are designed to help diners relax and let the good times roll. Do leave room for chicory coffee creme brulee. 555 N. El Camino Real, 949-3612855. Dinner only. Closed Sunday and Monday. $$$ MRK PUBLIC ½ Three chefs, two of them former co-chefs at Tabu Grill in Laguna Beach, transform a fast-casual fixture into a winning spot that offers craft beers, all $5, and a tightly edited menu of elevated favorites, notably Tuscan Toast, Vietnamese Sticky Wings, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich. The rear counter offers a distant ocean view. 1402 S. El Camino Real, San Clemente, 949-441-7621. Beer and wine. $ NICK’ S On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grownups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with a modern twist. Ace bets include the steak house salad and blackened mahi mahi sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna Beach location. No corkage. $$ SOUTH OF NICK’ S From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch-cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110 N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. No corkage. $$ VINE A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new

heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this beach burg gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2079. Dinner only. $$$

S A N JU A N C A P I S T R A NO EL ADOBE DE C APISTR ANO This restaurant will always be known as Nixon’s favorite. No surprises here, just steaks, combo plates, friendly service, and a charming setting. Ask for a tour of the purportedly haunted carcel, a former jail converted into a wine cellar. This historic building used to be the juzgado, or court, in colonial days. 31891 Camino Capistrano, 949-493-1163. $$ L’HIRONDELLE This pudgy, white adobe in the mission’s shadow charms with home cooking of the French-Belgian sort. The snug room has a cozy aura for chilly nights; the flowery patio suits the cuisine. 31631 Camino Capistrano, 949-661-

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0425. Wine and beer. Sunday brunch. Closed Monday. $$ PASC AL SEE A D ON PAGE 7 Long a stalwart force for terrific BEST NEW RESTAURANT French cuisine, Pascal Olhats 2016 moves his delicious act to a serene South County retail center. The sunny bakery-cum-deli-cum-market includes an intimate alcove for authentic bistro dishes with a lavish edge. Lunch includes the best croque monsieur around and prix fixe dinners are choice-laden feasts that can last for hours but not cost a fortune. Nice wines and imported pantry items make the market a home cook’s dream. 31451 Rancho Viejo Road, 949-488-0031. Wine-beer. Closed Sunday. $$$ PUBLIC 74 This county-line gastropub radiates a welcoming vibe that attracts customers of all types to its faux-ramshackle chic, second-story venue. Craft brews, booze, and decidedly eclectic eats change often, as executive chef Gerry Kent keeps the smallish menu seasonal. Definitely consider the two-handed Reuben, and there’s a seasonal monster burger. 27211 Ortega Highway, 949-481-2723. $$

R A MOS HOUSE C AFÉ A sweetly ramshackle adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district, Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits, crab hash, and hand-cranked ice cream. Don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752 Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$ SUNDRIED TOM ATO This breezy cafe is a great find for light lunch and uncomplicated dinners. Small and large plates for the California palate: Sundried tomato soup and memorable sandwiches, such as the honey-cilantro chicken pesto, or lamb burger with Gorgonzola and aioli. 31781 Camino Capistrano, 949-661-1167. $$ SEE AL SO SOUTH COA ST ME TRO

]

4TH STREET M ARKET Unrated Apple cinnamon beignets from Ramos House Café Another notch in downtown Santa A na’s g en t r i f ic at ion bel t , t his daily house ginger beer. Best bets include still-evolving complex showcases food stalls daily specials, unique hooch pours, and Sunborn of popular food trucks and local restauday brunch, often featuring live tunes by Rabbi rants. Best bets include Dos Chinos for Viet-Mex Blu. 227 N. Broadway, 714-352-2225. $$ fusion, meaty stacks at Stockyard Sandwich EL MERC ADO MODERN CUISINE Company, and fried egg creations from KTCHN Danny Godinez’s refined encore to his two DTSA. Communal seating indoors and on the Anepalco’s Cafes is unlike any Mexican restaupatio. Adjacent weekly farmers market on rant in Santa Ana. Deceptively bare-bones, the Thursday. 201 E. Fourth St., 714-486-0700. $$ menu offers about 20 dishes, each named for the CHAP TER ONE ½ Mexican state that inspires them. Don’t miss a Executive chef Jason Montelibano returns to sublime aguachile verde (Sinaloa). Also impreshis many fans, to jazz up the culinary content sive: crisp tacos ahogado in hot broth (Guerat this sociable gastropub. Yes, he has brought rero). Inventive cocktails lean on mescal and back those intoxicating adobo-sauced finger house-made bitters. The vintage site with soarkimchi wings that earned him the nickname ing ceilings seats 115 and boasts modern artwork. Chef Chicken Wing. The diverse crowd here Expect kind, unflappable service. 301 N. Spurdrinks with gusto as proved by the enduring geon St., 714-338-2446. Dinner, Sunday brunch. $$ fame of its Moscow Mule, made with freshIRENIA RESTAUR ANT Chef-owner Ryan Garlitos boldly takes his Filipino restaurant where none in O.C. have gone before: upscale modern. The compact menu presents a cuisine cobbled from his grandmother Irenia’s cooking, distinct Filipino flavors, Follow our local craft beer, cocktail, and modern technique, and seasonal provisions. wine experts Greg Nagel and Valory Reed The results are challenging, delicious, and exciting. The bar’s creative cocktails and desserts on our lively blog at orangecoast.com. by pastry phenom Ashley Guzman add up to a

‘BOOZE BLOG O.C.’

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PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

S A N TA A N A [

bona fide treasure we hope weathers the oftharsh demands of downtown. 400 N. Broadway, 657-245-3466. Closed Monday. $$ LOL A GASPAR Offbeat but not outlandish, this Artists Village indie draws an eclectic crowd for creative cocktails and lusty pub grub, often with a Latin twist. Inside, the quarters are dark and chummy while the Euro-esque patio opens to the village promenade. 211 W. 2nd St., 714-9721172. Dinner only. $$ MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR DTSA got a major dining upgrade BEST NEW RESTAURANT with this newbie from chef2017 owner Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of high-end dining, his major culinary chops rule the day, but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero pretension and multi-course meals packed with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey, and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714836-5158. Dinner only. Closed Monday. $$$ PL AYGROUND ½ Chef-owner Jason Quinn put his food truck in park for this buzzy storefront in Santa Ana’s fast-evolving downtown scene. The eclectic

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fare is gleefully maverick, created by a passionate crew who eschew rules. The rightfully popular burger no longer appears on the always-changing menu, but order it anyway. A stellar craft beer lineup outshines the modest wine list. Sunday Supper is a standout for adventurous palates. 220 E. Fourth St., 714-5604444. Dinner only. Closed Monday. No corkage. $$ WURSTHAUS ½ This convivial brats-n-brew salon succeeds by owning a deep niche: custom sausages and allEuro beers on 20 taps. When all others swoon over local craft brews, this crew goes long on atypical sausages with wild sauces on pretzel buns. And no pint is complete without Belgian fries made the Old World way. 305 E. Fourth St., 714-760-4333. $

SE AL BE ACH 320 M AIN ½ Seal Beach’s dark-but-cheerful indie venue boasts a long-respected cocktail program, and new chef James Miller complements those craft cocktails with a menu of rich, high-flavor fare. Think bone marrow Wellington, and for brunch, fried chicken Benedict. Fun day-of-the-week

F I V E

Q U E S T I O N S

W I T H …

ARTHUR ORTIZ BREAKFAST BLISS

FAVORITE RESTAURANT

Days off can mean overeasy eggs, super-dark rye toast, and a Guinness.

Amorelia Mexican Cafe in Costa Mesa, our go-to for carnitas. The pork is delicious.

50 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

GOOD ADVICE

ON THE JOB

Chef Thomas Keller’s book reminds me that the third bite of a dish should make you want more.

I teach staff by feeding them. I’m a teacher at heart; my knife and cutting board are my chalk and blackboard.

CULINARY HERO

Yard House’s Carlito Jocson, who taught me to care for guests and staff alike.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

Executive chef at Skyloft in Laguna Beach by Cathy Thomas

specials include Tiki Tuesday, Wine and Whiskey Wednesday, and Sunday Supper. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 320 Main St., 562799-6246. Weekend brunch. Closed Monday. $$ M AHÉ

Mahé is a hot spot for locals. Entertainment and a lively bar are the backdrops for sushi, steaks, and seafood. The inventive rolls, such as the salmon bomb, will make you a regular. 1400 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-431-3022. A second location (not yet reviewed) in Dana Point, 24961 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$ WALT ’ S WHARF

Beloved for fresh seafood expertly grilled over oak embers, this beach-village fixture attracts hordes of locals and visitors. The kitchen often adds creative sauces that complement the varied fresh catches (for example, oak-grilled Alaskan King salmon with sweet pea puree). Traditionalists love the beer-batter jumbo shrimp, and the cream-laden chowder. The well-chosen wine list has interesting bottles at fair prices. 201 Main St., 562-598-4433. $$

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S OU T H C OA S T ME T R O ANQI ½ SEE A D INSIDE FRONT COV ER Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever. Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Drinks at the dramatic bar dazzle the cocktail crowd, but try Sunday brunch for a more kick-back experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-557-5679. $$$ ANTONELLO RISTOR ANTE For more than three decades South Coast Plaza’s Italian grand diva has reigned for ultrafine feasting on authentic, traditional dishes backed by a savvy wine selection deep with Italian stars. House-made pastas, breads, and desserts. The restaurant’s aura of privilege is underscored by pampering service for VIPs. A full service wine bar is the latest update. 3800 South Plaza Drive, 714-751-7153. Closed Sunday. $$$

52 Or ange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

PHOTOGRAPH BY PRISCILL A IEZZI

THE C APITAL GRILLE ½ MORTON’ S , THE STE AKHOUSE Florida’s Darden Group (parent of downstairs Steaks—including 48-ounce porterhouse and restaurant Seasons 52) takes on an increasing double-cut filet mignon—are wet-aged three amount of square footage at South Coast Plaza to four weeks. Fill your plate with giant sides with this upscale, 400-plus-seat steakhouse. of broccoli and hash browns, but leave a little Despite an emphasis on dry-aged steaks and room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer seafood classics, some of the best dishes are happy hour deals, early and late night, Sunday lunch items, appetizers, and desserts. Gracious through Friday. 1641 W. Sunflower Ave., 714-444service, plush surroundings, and a deep, steep 4834. See Anaheim location. $$$ wine list. 3333 Bristol St., 714-432-1140. $$$ PIZZERIA ORTIC A DARYA Chef de cuisine Colleen Flynn now oversees Don’t let the chandeliers and acres of marble this urbane Nea-style pizzeria that’s a reliable deceive—this convivial Persian dining room source for creative antipasti, refined fresh pasisn’t staid or formal. It’s de facto party central tas, and authentic pies from the wood-burning for the county’s Persian ex-pats, their kin, and oven. Ideal spot for pre-theatre dining. Don’t others who enjoy superb renditions of Middle miss a short list of excellent desserts or the Eastern kebobs, rice dishes, and classics such top-notch cocktails. Sunday brunch is a new as fesenjon, a savory meat entree. Efficient addition and it’s superb. 650 Anton Blvd., 714service and huge portions make this a good 445-4900. $$ choice for groups. 3800 South Plaza Drive, 714RIT TER’ S STE A M KET TLE COOKING ½ 557-6600. $$ Chef-par tner Mike Rit ter and crew creHA M A MORI ate Cajun-Creole magic in 12 steam-heated Sushi artist James Hamamori (previously of steel caldrons that cook seductive versions Wasa) applies his name and eloquent talents of gumbo, chowder, and the legendary Pan to this penthouse dazzler. Sure, he features Roast—a heady concoction of various shellhis famous “sushi gems,” but this white-on-white venue also shows off urbane upscale dishes such as shiitake mushroom frites, and miso-marinated lamb chops. Prix fixe menus are a best buy, but happy hour has some steals, too. Top wines and elite sakes. 3333 Bear St., 714-850-0880. $$$ LE ATHERBY ’ S C AFE ROUGE Rarified and lovely, this sleeper choice for fine dining awakens only when the stages nearby come alive. The cafe is in the Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall. Dazzling a la carte choices are seasonal, and can include house-made pastas, and an excellent rack of lamb. Note: Star rating reflects a former chef. 615 Town Center Drive, 714-429-7640. No corkage. $$$ M ASTRO’ S STE AKHOUSE Be prepared for gargantuan portions, with cocktails to match. Mastro’s offers Prime steaks, wet-aged for 28 days. A hand-cut, 33-ounce chef’s rib-eye, and a 48-ounce, double-cut porterhouse will tame the manliest appetite. Retro sides include twicebaked potato, and creamed spinach. 633 Anton Blvd., 714-546-7405. Pan Roast from Ritter’s Steam Kettle Cooking See Newport Coast location. Dinner only. $$$

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Restaurant Guide • O ra ng e C o a st 1

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53 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

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54 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

D I S N E Y L A N D E AT S Try some of our favorite park noshes!

M I CKE Y ’S FU N W H EEL

Cove Bar This colorful, fruity cocktail, left, is on the secret menu. Tequila, rum, and passion fruit vodka are layered with pineapple juice and blue curaçao and topped with lemon foam.

DEEP-FR IE D PI CKL ES

Carnation Café Served piping hot, the pickle spears are breaded in Parmesan and panko, allowing them to stay crispy longer than you’d expect.

CHI LI C ONE QUESO

Cozy Cone Motel Forget the bread bowl. For a warm, hand-held treat, try this bread cone filled with beef chili, cheddar cheese and Fritos. Vegetarian chili also is available.

O NIO N RING S

Hungry Bear Restaurant The batter makes all the difference in these perfectly fried onion rings. Enjoy them as a side or on a burger at this beloved Critter Country venue.

CHO CO L AT ECO V E RE D PINEAPPLE SPEAR

Pooh Corner For a refreshing and somewhat healthy dessert, you can’t go wrong with a ripe piece of pineapple dipped in dark chocolate and drizzled with white chocolate.

C ARNE ASADA FRIE S

White Water Snacks Check out this “secret” menu item from one of the eateries at Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa. Order the beef nachos served with fresh salsa, guacamole, sour cream and jalapeños, and sub the chips for fries.

fish bubbling in a rich sauce of cream, tomato, and secret spices, topped with a dome of perfect jasmine rice—that’s by far the best-selling dish. And don’t miss the mean po’ boy sandwich. 1421 W. MacArthur Blvd., 714-850-1380. Beer-wine. Huntington Beach location at 180 5th St., 714-536-7733. $$ ROYAL KHYBER Arun Puri, the creator behind Orange County’s first Indian restaurant, is still buying the spices and manning the tandoor oven in the skilled kitchen at this upscale choice for first-rate ren-

CH UR R O FUN N E L C A K E

Hungry Bear Restaurant Made to order, this fried dessert is tucked away in the farthest corner of Disneyland Park. Topped with cinnamon sugar, caramel, and Mickeyshaped whipped cream, this hybrid is totally shareable

RASPBERRY ROSE MICKE Y MAC ARON

Jolly Holiday Bakery Cafe Larger and more magical than your average macaron, this French pastry is filled with fresh raspberries and raspberry rose cream. Also available in a seasonal flavor.

CH E DDA R GA R LI C BAGEL T WIST

Maurice’s Treats Indulge in this savory breadstick loaded with flavor in the relatively new Fantasy Faire area of the park. Perfect for tearing and sharing.

ditions of classics such as Butter Chicken, Tikka Masala, and the signature Khyber’s Nectar, a dish of slow-cooked lamb shanks said to be an aphrodisiac. 1621 W. Sunflower Ave., 714-4361010. Sunday brunch. $$ SE ASONS 52 ½ Open-kitchen cooking with wood fire serves seasonal eats with a farmers market spin. Flatbreads and shot-glass desserts are signatures. Look for nightly music at the piano bar and an inviting patio with fountains and fire pits. 3333 Bristol Ave., 714-437-5252. $$ O.C. Eats Ť Or a nge Coa st 55

VAC A ½ Top chef Amar Santana and ace partner Ahmed Labbate return to Costa Mesa with an exuberant, singular ode to Spain. Santana sidesteps the “eat local” crusade, offering peerless jamon Iberico, lush bomba rice for paellas, and verdant Mahon gin for cocktails. Dozens of authentic tapas beg to be tried, but do consider excellent woodgrilled steaks, dry-aged in-house. Dinner tables at prime times are scarce, so plan, wait, or aim for lunch. 695 Town Center Drive, 714-463-6060. $$$

S TA N T ON PARK AVE Restored to a jaunty sheen never imagined during its Highway 39 diner heyday, this family-owned Googie landmark serves gourmet American classics (spinach salad with warm dressing, maple-glazed pork chop plump with apple stuffing) as invented by accomplished chef David Slay. Look for a heavy reliance on fromscratch cooking (house breads, ice creams, even the mayo and ketchup). Il Garage, an alfresco venue near the property’s large kitchen garden, offers an Italian menu and separate hours. 11200 Beach Blvd., 714-901-4400. Closed Monday. $$

T R A BUC O C A N Y ON TR ABUCO OAKS STE AKHOUSE This favorite of Nixon’s, where they will cut off your tie and keep it as part of the decor, is 100 percent serious when it comes to steaks: choice cuts are well-aged and mesquite-charcoal grilled to order. From the 2-pound Cowboy Steak to the 8-ounce filet mignon, the smoky, charred flavor shines through in every bite. Small-butselect wine list of California superstars. 20782 Trabuco Oaks Drive, 949-586-0722. Dinner only. $$

T U S T IN ROM A D’ ITALIA Old Town’s durable red-sauce joint keeps fans coming for family-recipe meatballs, pizzas, parmi-gianas, and pastas. Casual digs include the red-checked tablecloths, and shakers of crushed pepper. Good for groups and speedy work lunches. 611 El Camino Real, 714-544-0273. Wine and beer. $ SNOOZE Denver-based Snooze handily charms the allday, everyday brunch crowd it lures to its Tustin Marketplace venue. Consistently delicious riffs on classic egg and pancake dishes make for a brunch you want but will never cook at home. 56 Orange C o a st Ť O.C. Eats

Expect peppy, earnest service that reflects the menu’s slogan of “peace, love, pancakes.” The result is long waits after 7 a.m. for inventive Benedicts, clever flapjacks, and a long list of bloody marys and coffee drinks. 3032 El Camino Real, 714-415-6269. Breakfast and lunch only. $$ ZOV ’ S BISTRO Fans love Zov Karamardian’s modern, creative way with Mediterranean flavors, fueling a decades-long culinary affair of local legend. Zov keeps her flagship venue fresh and stylish, most recently by way of a lavish remodel that expands the bar and its separate menu. Look for chic mezze starters and seasonal specials, as well as updated dishes on the bistro menu. And don’t think of leaving without splurging on one of pastry chef Michelle Bracken’s indulgent desserts. 17440 E. 17th St., 714-838-8855. Closed Sunday. See Irvine and Newport Coast locations. $$$ ZOV ’ S BAKERY AND C AFE This attractive shopping center cafe backs up to the popular Zov’s Bistro and lures locals with creative choices for breakfast, lunch, light dinners, and meals to go. Desserts are a standout and so is the delightful patio. An alcove boutique offers Zov’s signature spice blends, specialty cheeses, wine, and select pantry items. 17440 E. 17th St., 714-838-8855. $$

YORBA LINDA BLUE AGAVE Southwestern favorites, from tamales to carnitas, and mole enchiladas in generous portions, keep regulars coming back. For something different, try the Puerto Nuevo Tostada with shrimp, mahi mahi, sour cream, and raspberries in a pumpkin seed-citrus dressing. 18601 Yorba Linda Blvd., 714-970-5095. $$ L A BET TOL A Small and slightly quirky, this warm hideaway serves Italian specials that soar. Meals begin with fresh focaccia and roasted garlic, and proceed with dishes such as stuffed pastas, lots of fresh fish, and softball-size meatballs. Chef-owner Gaetano Ianni rules the kitchen while his veteran crew manages the packed room with speedy efficiency. 18504 Yorba Linda Blvd., 714-695-0470. Wine and beer. Closed Sunday and Monday. $$ THE WILD ARTICHOKE ½ Chef-owner James D’Aquila and his winsome crew raise the culinary bar at this teensy, modest storefront. Expect skillful, gourmet incarnations of comfort fare, such as peppered filet flambé, pasta Bolognese, and shrimp bagna cauda. Desserts are few, but mighty. 4973 Yorba Ranch Road, 714-777-9646. Wine and beer. $$

HAPPY HOUR ALL NIGHT, EVERY NIGHT

At Nirvana you enjoy the bliss of knowing, we’re feeding you the best food for you in town! Sustainable Seafood | Organic Free-Range Poultry | Hormone & Antibiotic Free Meats Grass-Fed Organic Burgers | Local, Seasonal & Organic Ingredients | Gluten Free Menu Vegan & Vegetarian Menu | Nutritious Kids Menu

Private Events | Large Groups | Offsite Catering | Corporate Events 303 Broadway #101, Laguna Beach | 949.497.0027 | NirvanaGrille.com (On the Corner of Beach & Broadway Across from Whole Foods in The Plaza Shopping Center)

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