The High Coast Trail
Trail guide Maps The High Coast
WELCOME!
The High Coast Trail is one of Sweden´s most beautiful hiking routes. It stretches from the High Coast Bridge in Kramfors to the city of Örnsköldsvik. A walk through the High Coast is probably the best way of getting to know this fascinating landscape. Since November 2000 the area is included on UNESCO´s list of natural world heritages. The nature along the trail fulfils every expectation. Here you will meet interesting and breathtaking sceneries with a rich flora and fauna. The High Coast Trail, that takes you through Skuleskogen National Park and two nature reserves, is really a unique mix of forest and archipelago. The trail covers a distance of 128.6 kilometres and is divided into 13 sections. See the key map at the end of this guide. Each section offers at least one possible overnight stop – ranging from a simple log cabin to a youth hostel or hotel. The trail is marked with orange paint on trees and posts. At crossroads and forks in the trail there are signposts with distances and direction arrows. Most of the time the trail offers you a dry-shod walk. However, due to weather conditions muddy sections cannot be avoided. Sturdy walking boots are therefore recommended. The access and quality of drinking water may sometimes be a problem, especially during dry summers. On the map of each section there is a symbol that indicates drinking water.
This guide focuses on the High Coast Trail and what is to be found around it. For more specific tourist information about the area, please contact... • The customer service in Kramfors, 0612-800 00 • The tourist office in Örnsköldsvik, 0660-881 00 • Also, visit www.hogakusten.com
MAP LEGEND Start/finish point
The H C Trail
Detour
Room
View
Parking
Cottage, has beds
Drinking water
Bathing
Camping
Grocery
Outside fireplace
Cottage, has no beds
Sight
Fishing
Wind shelter
Passenger boat
Touristinformation
Picnic area
Outside toilet
Observation tower
SECTION 1
Hornöberget - Lövvik Distance: 9,8 km Degree of difficulty: Demanding
The High Coast Bridge The High Coast Trail starts at Hornöberget on the northern side of the High Coast Bridge. A good place to begin your walk is at the information board next to the car park of Hotell Höga Kusten. At the same time, enjoy the sight of the magnificent bridge. Inside the hotel there is a tourist information centre (open during the tourist season) and a restaurant. If you are hungry or in need of accommodation there is another alternative in the area. Björkudden Hotell & Restaurang is situated in a historically interesting building on the shore of the river Ångermanälven. The High Coast Trail follows the old coastal road from Hornöberget to Nyadal. The bridge over the Svartnora sound was built in 1999. Up until then the roads were connected by ferries. At the end of this section in Sör-Lövvik there is a service house for hikers and sailors. The building contains two separate bedrooms with three beds in each, a kitchen, toilets, showers and a sauna. The service house, which is unattended, is run by Lövvik´s Village and Sports Association. The rooms can be booked in advance. If you have not done that and notice that there are beds free, please follow the written instructions. Internet connection. During the tourist season, i e from the middle of June until the middle of August, you can buy supplies at Lövviks Restaurang & Livs. In Lövvik there is also a bed & breakfast accommodation.
Sör-Lövvik
Sör-Lövvik Sör-Lövvik
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SECTION 2
Lövvik - Fjärdbotten
Distance: 9,6 km Degree of difficulty: Moderate
Valkallen About two kilometres from Sör-Lövvik there is a detour to the mountain Valkallen. On the summit you will meet one of the most beautiful views in the High Coast. 240 metres above sea level in a 360-degree perspective you can enjoy the sight of Ångermanälven, the High Coast Bridge and Storön nature reserve. Valkallen is an ancient beacon hill. A large bonfire could be lit in order to warn the local population of foreign invasion. In 1721 the beacons around the province were lit when the Russians devastated the coast of Ångermanland. On May 31 1721 Sör-Lövvik was completely destroyed, Norr-Lövvik was not attacked at all. On the summit of Valkallen there is a small cottage open to visitors and an outside toilet. In Halsviken there is a picnic area with wind shelter, outside toilet and fireplace. Camping is allowed. Once there was a mill here, traces of it can still be found. The trail then follows Grönsviksfjärden. Picnic area with wind shelter and outside fireplace. Drinking water. Don´t miss the detour to Rödhällorna. Close to the beach, where the cliffs have not been covered by lichens, you can see the red rapakivi granite. The rock, that is also called Nordingrå granite, is the provincial mineral of Ångermanland. Rödhällorna is also of interest for you who enjoy fishing. The destination for this section is Fjärdbotten´s summer farm at Häggnäset. It consists of a number of timbered cottages with rustic beds and a larger cottage of 35 square metres with tables and benches. The summer farm is always open and booking in advance is not possible. The area is excellent for camping. Outside toilet and fireplace. Please note that it is not possible to go all the way to the summer farm by car. There is a parking place close to the country road, about 900 metres from the summer farm. Fjärdbotten is easy to reach by boat. Guest pier with 15 moorings.
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Storรถn
SECTION 3
Fjärdbotten - Gavik Distance: 12,8 km Degree of difficulty: Demanding Just north of Fjärdbotten there is a detour to Hörsångs Havsbad och Camping. Hörsång is a beautiful bay with a fine, sandy beach. The beach has been awarded the international Blue Flag standard. This confirms that the beach meets the stringent environmental, safety, service and water quality requirements. The service house is modern and adjusted to the needs of disabled persons. Access to drinking water and possibility to buy a limited amount of groceries. During the summer a passenger boat operates between the camping site and Storön nature reserve (an island). For those of you who are interested in fishing a trip to Skiringen is recommended. The lake, that is 28 hectares, received rotenone treatment in the middle of the 1960´s. Since then salmon trout, char and grayling are regularly put out. Fishing licenses are sold by Skiringen Road and Fishing Association.
View from Lidenipan The mountain Lidenipan is a popular destination for both locals and visitors. The cottage on the summit was built in 1952. It is always open and can be used for overnight stays. There are no beds, but 5-6 persons can sleep on the floor. The cottage consists of a single room with table, chairs, open fireplace and, to some extent, kitchen equipment. Outside toilet. No drinking water. When you visit the cabin do not miss to study the 50 years old guest books. The cabin is owned and run by Östbygden Village Association. Please note that the distance to the next indoor overnight accommodation, Lappudden, is approximately 15 kilometres. Gavik, the destination for this section, has no public services at all.
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SECTION 4
View from Rödklitten
Gavik - Lappudden Distance: 11,5 km Degree of difficulty: Easy From Gavik in Nora to Lappudden in Nordingrå the trail mostly follows the country roads, which makes the walking easy. After Svartviken, in the direction of Brattnäset, there is a detour to the mountain Älgaberget. About 500 metres from the trail you will find a wind shelter and an outside fireplace. Lake Rydtjärnen also lies in the area. Salmon trout. Fishing license is needed. For more information, please contact Mädan Fishing Association. If you want to catch a glimpse of ancient times, the detour to Rödklitten is recommended. During the Iron Age these kinds of mountains were used as haven of refuge. Remains from an ancient castle are visible. These are to be found on the least steep side of the hill, i e where the path leads to the top. The distance from the trail to the top is about 700 metres. Rödklitten is also interesting from a botanical point of view. Last, but not least, the view over Gaviksfjärden is breathtaking. The destination for this section, Lappudden, is beautifully situated on the outermost point of a peninsula in the lake Vågsfjärden. Lappudden was originally a crofter´s holding, but is now owned and run as a recreational centre by AGMA Forntid & Äventyr. A wide variety of services, such as lodging is to be found here. You can also rent canoes, rowing boats, kayaks and bikes here. In the village Körning there is a boarding house called Kiörningsgården. Vågsfjärden illustrates in a good way the process of land uplift. “Fjärd” means in Swedish “narrow bay”. Despite its name, Vågsfjärden has been a lake for 150 years. Life in the water still tells of ancient times. The surface is about one metre above sea level but crustaceans, that normally dwell in brackish water, live here.
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SECTION 5
Lappudden - Ullånger Distance: 15 km Degree of difficulty: Demanding Nordingrå is sometimes called “the heart of the High Coast”, which is easy to understand. With its 52 villages and varied scenery Nordingrå offers you the very essence of the High Coast. If you are in need of public services or bus connections a detour to Nordingråvallen might be of interest. During the summer season there is a tourist office in the former parish hall next to the church. Here you also can see the ruins of the old church and well-kept church stables on the shore of Vågsfjärden.
Another detour leads to the mountain Körningsberget. Outside fireplace with benches. Lovely view over Körning and Vågsfjärden. Another six kilometres of walking and you will find Erikskojan. The timbered cottage is about ten square metres in size and equipped with wood stove, two beds and a table. Outside toilet and fireplace with log seats. Drinking water from a stream. On the summit of Ringråberget, about 500 metres from Erikskojan, there is a large mound of stones. The boundary lines of six villages meet here. The place also marks the border between two parishes – Nordingrå and Ullånger. The destination for this section is Ullånger. In the village there is a wide variety of services, such as shops and restaurants. The hotel Snäckan welcomes lodgers. At the southern approach road to Ullånger you can find the restaurant Cesars, that also has rooms to let. Ullånger is the centre for bus traffic in the High Coast area. At the bus stop there is a commuter parking lot. During the summer you can travel by passenger boat from Ullånger to Ulvön.
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SECTION 6
Mäjasjön´s summer farm
Ullånger - Skoved Distance: 10,5 km Degree of difficulty: Easy Gårdberget is situated about two kilometres from the centre of Ullånger. The mountain is also called Äskjaberget. The top cabin, that is owned and run by Ullånger´s local folklore society, is always open to hikers. Sofa bed. Outside toilet. There is no drinking water. Mäjasjön´s summer farm lies 500 metres from Gårdberget. It is not really a farm but a kind of local history museum. Ullånger´s local folklore society has moved buildings from different parts of the region and carefully reconstructed them here. One of the cottages and an unfurnished storehouse are always open. The other cottages can be rented. Fresh water during the summer. Between Mäja and Docksta the trail traces the route of the old coast road. King Karl XI travelled along this road in 1694, Carl von Linné during his journey to Lapland in 1732 and King Adolf Fredrik in 1752. The road changed its route in 1756 and 1785 when the new road was built, approximately where the E4 now lies. In the village Knäppa, there is a lovely view over Ullångersfjärden. Another enchanting view is to be found from Fäberget, about 1.5 kilometres from the trail. At the top (200 metres above sea level) there is a wind shelter with an outside fireplace. Camping is possible. No drinking water. The destination for this section is Docksta Vandrarhem & Camping. The popular camping site (3 stars), youth hostel and restaurant provide a wide variety of services.
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SECTION 7
Skoved - Skuleberget Distance: 6,8 km Degree of difficulty: Easy About one kilometer´s walk from Skoved there is a lovely view over Dockstafjärden. Don´t miss it! Just before the trail reaches Docksta it passes an old church. The white stone church probably dates from the 14th century, the interior was made in the 18th century. The trail then leads straight through Docksta. Here you will find a wide variety of services. The restaurant Dockstabaren has rooms and cottages to let. Villa Orrbacken, 500 metres from Docksta in the direction of Värns, also takes in lodgers. During the summer you can also travel by passenger boat from Docksta to Ulvön. The hotel in Docksta offers nice rooms and a lovely view over Dockstafjärden. North of Docksta there is a detour to Norrgällsta, about 1.5 kilometres from the trail. Here you can go by cable way to the peak of the mountain Skuleberget. The restaurant is open during the tourist season. Skulebergets stugby and Jacobs stugor (summer cottages) both lie in Norrgällsta. Another recommended detour leads to Vedåsand, 350 metres from the trail. Sandy beach, excellent for bathing. Outside toilet. Skuleberget with its spectacular silhouette lies on the border of Skuleskogen. A proof of the prestige is the fact that it is mentioned on the very first maps of Scandinavia. Carl von Linné visited Skuleberget in 1732. The cave has probably been formed by ice and water in ancient times when the sea level reached its highest point (286 metres above the present sea level). The mountain is a nature reserve since 1969. Today the area is an exciting place with cable way, ski slope, Rövarbyn (an activity centre), climbing routes, adventure trails and much more.
View from the cave In Naturum Höga Kusten, an experience-based museum, you can learn about land elevation, geology and life in the area. The people who work here gladly informs you about the High Coast. Restaurants and toilets. There are tables outdoors where you can eat your packed lunch or dinner. Wind shelter and fire place by Vedån.
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SECTION 8
Skuleberget - Entré Syd Distance: 9,7 km Degree of difficulty: Moderate On this distance you will find a detour to Dalsjöfallet, 1.9 kilometres from the trail. It is an impressive waterfall with five metres free fall during spring and autumn. The riverside and rapids are of botanical interest. Typically southern species such as maple, guelder rose and blue wood-anemone grow side by side with alpine blue-sow-thistle. In Dal, close to Skuleskogen Nationalpark and the High Coast Trail you can stay at the newly rebuilt Skuleskogen´s pension and from there explore the mythical and fabulous environment with the spectacular Slåttdalsskrevan. The destination for this section is Entré Syd, the southern entrance to the national park. Here you are reached by a breathtaking view over the Bothnian Sea. A nice place to rest. You also find information about the national park here.
Skuleskogens nationalpark
You will not find any overnight accommodations at the spot. If you need a place to sleep, you are recommended to use any of the open cottages in the national park. Please note that camping is only allowed in certain areas. For further information, please see the map on the next spread.
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SECTION 9
Skuleskogens nationalpark Distance: 6,9 km Degree of diff: Moderate/demanding Skuleskogen was established in 1984 as Sweden´s 19th national park. The High Coast Trail passes right through the park, a relatively demanding hike due to the large changes in altitude. Within the park there is a system of 20 kilometres of marked trails (the High Coast Trail is not included), which offer visitors a good choice of walks.
Slåttdalsskrevan
One of Skuleskogen´s greatest attractions is Slåttdalsskrevan; a 200 metre long, 40 metre deep and 7 metre wide crevice. Beautiful and spectacular.
Allemansrätten, i e the Swedish legal right of access to open country, is not valid in the national park. Camping is therefore restricted to special places. If you wish to spend the night in the park, you can always use any of the open cottages. Kälaviken lies close to the trail. Two wind shelters. Outside toilet and fireplace. Camping is allowed. Beautiful beach. Fresh water can be taken from the streams on the north side of Kälaviken. Tärnättvattnen are two lakes separated by a swamp. On the north side of the southern lake there is a cottage open to hikers. It is small but equipped with a stove and four bunk-beds. Outside toilet and fireplace. Other cottages in the national park: • Skrattabborrtjärnen: a cottage with stove and six beds. Camping is allowed. Outside toilet. No drinking water. • Lillrutenstuga: a cottage equipped with wood stove and beds. Outside toilet. Water from stream. • Näskebodarna: summer farm with private cottages. Hundred metres from the summer farm there is an open cabin with wood stove and four beds. Camping is allowed. Outside toilet. Water can be taken from the stream. • Tärnättholmarna: a nice cottage with six beds and a stove. Table and benches. Outside toilet. Outside fireplace. Camping allowed. Water can be taken from a creek on the mainland about 400 metres northwest of the cabin. On the outer islet there is a simple cabin with stove. Outside toilet. • On the mainland of Tärnättsundet there is a cottage with four beds. Wood stove and outside fireplace. The cottage is not fit for winter habitation. Water can be taken from a stream. The destination for this section is Entré Nord. Table and benches, outside toilet and facility for waste disposal. Information board.
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SECTION 10
Entré Nord - Köpmanholmen Distance: 7 km Degree of difficulty: Easy From the parking area the trail follows the public road, first to the village Näske, then to Köpmanholmen. Köpmanholmen is an old industrial society formed by the old company Forss, that later became NCB. The pulp-mill closed a long time ago and the buildings have been pulled down. Today there are only a few minor industries left in the area.
The herbgarden in Köpmanholmen The trail leads straight through Köpmanholmen. A wide variety of services is available. Next to Brukskyrkan (a church) there is a herb garden, that is open during the summer season. Those of you who are interested in art and sculptures should not miss the ceramist Hans Hedberg´s work that is displayed in the area. If you are in need of accommodation, the youth hostel in Köpmanholmen is recommended. For those of you who are hungry, the restaurant Kajen might be of interest. There is also a regular service of passenger boats from Köpmanholmen to Trysunda and Ulvön.
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SECTION 11
Köpmanholmen - Sandlågan Distance: 12,7 km Degree of difficulty: Demanding In Köpmanholmen´s harbour you will find a newly built cabin with toilet and shower. Outside fireplace. Camping is allowed. Drinking water is accessible. Köpmanholmens havsbad is an excellent spot for you who are interested in sea-bathing. If you follow the trail eastwards you get to Hålviken. Car park, information board, tables and benches, outside toilet. From here the trail follows a path to Balesudden nature reserve. About 300 metres from the car park there is a wind shelter.
Magnificent view in Balesudden nature reserve Balesudden with its 923 hectares is a relatively large nature reserve. It was established in 1985. Six kilometres of the High Coast Trail go through the reserve. There is also a detour of approximately two kilometres past Lake Balestjärn and on to Balesberget for a fantastic view. From here you can see large parts of the archipelago; from Skagsudde in the north to Ulvöarna in the south. About 500 metres west of Balesviken there are beautiful caves and cauldrons that over the years have been carved out by the waves. In Sörbalesviken there is an outside fireplace and toilet. Camping. Balestjärnen is well worth a visit. It is a remarkable lake in many ways, much because of its clear, green water and position. It lies in a basin surrounded by acidic rocks (Nordingrå granite), still the water is almost alkaline! This is due to the surrounding shell gravel, i e fossilised mussel banks that serve to raise the pH value. From Balesviken the trail leads you to Bodviken. Here you will find a cottage with wide beds, table and chairs. Stove. Outside toilet and fireplace. A good place for camping. Drinking water can be taken from the stream. The trail then leads on to Sandlågan, the destination for this section. About 500 metres south of the car park (destination for this section) there is a wind shelter with table, benches and outside fireplace. Outside toilet.
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SECTION 12
Sandlågan - Svedje Distance: 11,6 km Degree of difficulty: Moderate The trail follows the public road past the village Bäck and on to Utby. From here it continues along a forest road to Småtjärnarna. About 300 metres south of the lakes there is a cottage with two beds, stove, table and benches. Outside toilet and fireplace. No access to drinking water.
Småtjärnstugan
Windshelter at Sandlågan From Småtjärnsstugan there is a detour to Gene Fornby, which is a living reconstruction of a farmstead dating back to the 6th century. The farmstead was found in the 1970´s when the community of Örnsköldsvik was going to build houses at Genesmon. The excavation revealed totally new facts about the iron age people in this area. Earlier the main theory had been that only hunters and gatherers had lived in Ångermanland. Near Gene Fornby you will find Nyänget and its beautiful beach. The High Coast trail passes through the Vitsjö area, which is a popular recreational area, frequently used by skiers in the winter. In Svedje the trail follows the public road to Svedjeholmen. As you walk north you will pass the ice-hockey rink of Svedjeholmens IF. The trail then leads to the river Moälven.
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SECTION 13
Örnsköldsvik
Svedje - Örnsköldsvik Distance: 4,7 km Degree of difficulty: Easy The trail passes Moälven on a sluice gate. The bridge is quite safe, but as the management of Domsjö factories points out on a notice, those using the bridge do so at their own risk. The trail leads to Hörnsjön nature reserve; a beautiful recreational area less than a kilometre from the city of Örnsköldsvik. The trail partly follows paths, partly the illuminated ski track. During the winter many skiers come here, there is also a special path for dog owners. There are many picnic places, wind shelters and outside fireplaces around the lake. From Hörnsjön the trail goes on Örnsköldsvik. If you want to have a perfect view of the city you can choose the detour to Varvsberget. There is a restaurant on the summit, but you can also use the outside fireplace. The trail goes along the railway and passes the ski jumping hill Paradiskullen. Finishing point of the trail is the town square. In Örnsköldsvik you will find lots of exciting things to do and see. There are many different types of sleeping accommodations to choose between. Those of you who plan to travel by bus or train don´t have to worry - the town has a rich flora of public transport. For more information please contact the tourist information centre in Örnsköldsvik.
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Short facts about the High Coast Where is the High Coast? The High Coast lies on the north eastern coast of Sweden, situated in the municipalities of Kramfors and Örnsköldsvik. Area? The world heritage site covers an area of about 1,400 km2 and is located along a 100 kilometre long section of the Bothnian Sea coast. The marine area encompasses 56 % of the total area. The archipelago consists of about 70 islands. Why is the High Coast a world heritage? The reason why the area was inscribed on UNESCO´s list of world heritages in November 2000 has to do with the land uplift. The relative land uplift is 286 metres above the present sea level. A comparison with all land uplift areas in the world after the latest glaciation shows that the only comparable area is at Hudson Bay in Canada, where the equivalent uplift is 272 metres. Does the Kvarken archipelago in Finland also belong to the world heritage? Yes, in July 2006 the world heritage was enlarged by Kvarken. The flat archipelago of Kvarken and the steep High Coast now together constitute a complete example of how the land uplift forms the landscape and influences biological processes. What effect has the land uplift today? The High Coast is currently rising at a rate of approximately eight millimetres per year. This means that many bays gradually get narrower and narrower. On a long view these bays will be tailed away into lakes. Other thrilling traces of land elevation are till-capped hills, shingle fields and caves. At levels between 75 and 25 metres above sea level there are sediments containing shells and shell fragments that are 2,500–6,000 years old. For how long have people lived here? A large number of archeological finds show that Ångermanland was inhabited already in the Stone Age. The coast and the lower river valleys were the first sites of permanent settlement. Along the coast of Ångermanland there are more than 700 known barrows from the Bronze Age, among others the remains from the ancient castle on Rödklitten (section 4). At Gene outside Örnsköldsvik (section 12) an archeaeological dig has unearthed Sweden´s most northerly Iron Age settlement so far. Do you have protected areas in the High Coast? Jewel in the crown is of course Skuleskogen. Apart from the national park there are about 20 reserves within the world heritage area. Nature reserves are the most common form of nature protection in Sweden. These are set aside to protect various types of natural habitat that provide opportunities of experiencing nature and recreation of great value. Why should I visit the High Coast? The High Coast has a lot to offer. Here you can enjoy the wonders of nature. Experience both tranquillity and pulse. In addition to that, the place has an interesting history and culture. In a few words - the High Coast never seizes to surprise you!
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Lappudden
Kramfors
3
Fjärdbotten
Lövvik
2
Hornöberget
Lappudden
Ullånger
69,2
Skuleberget
76 52,6
85,7 42,9
92,6 33,6
29
99,6
16,3
112,3
Skoved Entré Nord Skuleberget Entré Syd Köpmanholmen Sandlågan
59,4
Entré Syd
Gavik
Skoved
58,7
8
69,9
Entré Nord
Fjärdbotten
5
43,7
Skule9 skogen
84,9
10 Köpmanholmen
96,4
11
Lövvik Hornöberget
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32,2
Sandlågan
109,2
E4
19,4
12
9,8
0 km Svedje Örnsköldsvik
4,7
123,9 128,6 km
Svedje
118,8
13
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Örnsköldsvik
128,6
E4
200 m 100 m
Key map
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6
Ullånger
Gavik
Tourist information
Kom in, Kramfors +46 612-80 000 komin@kramfors.se
Örnsköldsviks Turistbyrå +46 660-881 00 turism@ornskoldsvik.se
Photo cover: Anna Carlemalm Photos: Elisabeth Bårman, John Granbo, Ann-Cathrin Granbäck, Sven Hallberg, Patrik Karlin, Urban Lidbaum, Linus Salö, Mats Wedin, Monica Årjes, Ingimage Production: Ordpilot Höga Kusten & Hallbergs Grafiska Printed by Accidens 2013