Old Vine Grenache & Garnacha

THE BEST WINE YOU’VE NEVER TASTED OLD VINE GRENACHE/GARNACHA

What’s old is new again. June Lee gets up close with the renaissance taking place in Garnacha’s original homeland of Northern Spain and neighbouring Roussillon, where the grape reaches its highest potential.

Oldest Maury producer, Mas Amiel's Parcelle Legende

The highest point of my Garnacha/Grenache trip, literally, is about 900m above sea level, where it’s not the altitude that takes my breath away but the sight of majestic bush vines on sandy, stony soils. Naturally surrounded by juniper trees, holm oaks, pines and other native vegetation, are squat, thick-stumped Garnacha vines planted in 1913, now part of the 3.25 hectare La Centenera plot that makes a wine called Las Luces from Las Moradas de San Martín. The late autumn day is fiercely sunny and wind-whipped at the same time, but head winemaker Isabel Galindo is completely in her element as she points out how these vines are pruned and maintained, a labour of passion when its yield is so low that most winemakers would prefer to rip them out and plant highyielding new vines. A tasting of Las Luces shortly after cements my impression of this sophisticated, mineral rich wine, delivering power yet alluring black cherry and balsamic notes on the palate.

ROOTED IN GENEROSITY

Once one of the most prolific reds in Spain and the world, Garnacha is said to have originated in Spain’s northeast, an area now known as Aragón. Its ability to produce juicy fruity wine with moderate tannins and in high yield made it popular for affordable, everyday wine, and versatile for blending with other wines. It is also drought and disease resistant, an important factor in poor rainfall areas.

Known as Grenache Noir in France, it is best known in the Rhône Valley where it tames the more tannic, spicy Syrah, and similarly in South Australia where old vines can still be found and often paired with Shiraz. Yet, lesser known but equally prime vines in the Roussillon are one of the region's best kept secrets.

Garnacha’s ubiquity caused it to be uprooted in Spain as part of an effort to reduce Europe’s wine surplus, starting in the 1990s. However, renewed interest in making higher quality wine from older vines started in Priorat, and now throughout important European Union (EU) Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) regions such as DO Carinena, DO Campo de Borja and DO Calatayud.

The ‘trendiest’ area appears to be in the Sierra de Gredos mountain region, west of Madrid, where I visited Las Moradas de San Martín (DO Vinos de Madrid) and the character of “new Gredos” was born – elegant, balanced wines that are fine and delicate in the style of Burgundy. Winemaker Galindo is convinced that her wines’ stability is due to the synergy of low yield, sandy soil and high natural acidity acting as natural preservatives – thereby reducing the need to add sulphites. Like many other top producers, they are using only hand harvest, no chemicals or additives, spontaneous yeast and a variety of French and Hungarian oak to coax out Garnacha’s more hidden characters.

ON THE OTHER SIDE

In the beautiful region of Roussillon north of the national border from Spain, Grenache covers about 30% of the wine acreage and is found in variations including Noir, Gris and Blanc. The wine-growing area is bounded on three sides by mountain ranges, creating an amphitheatre that opens to the Mediterranean Sea.

Vin Doux Naturels (VDN) or fortified sweet wine dominates, making up 80% of the national production hence you’ll find 5 PDOs and different varietals including Grenache, Macabeu, Malvoisie du Roussillon and Muscats. In the 9 PDOs for dry wine, red varieties are favoured – the Carignan equally as important as Grenache, alongside Cinsault and Mouvèdre.

It’s easy to see the Spanish influence in this region, which didn’t become part of France until the 17th century. There is a cosy community of 25 cooperative cellars and 380 private/family winemakers spread out across a pastiche of micro-terroirs. It's worth noting that Domaine du Clos de Fées paved the way in 1998 for a modern, enigmatic cult wine, when sommelier-journalist turned winemaker Hervé Bizeul audaciously defined the style that would command prices formerly unheard of in this region.

WINERY HIGHLIGHTS

Some, like Mas Amiel and Maison Cazes, are storied houses with memorable offerings for tourism. 200-year-old Mas Amiel, one of the most famous producers in Maury, offers picnics, sunset aperitifs, and sweet wine tastings with cheese or chocolate, but the real stars are its fortified oxidised wines that are first aged for in 1,000 glass demijohns, dramatically arrayed outside the winery. Subsequently the wines go into 350-hectolitre oak casks for 20, 30 and 40 years that get progressively more complex with bitter almond and spice notes. (Distributed by Vintage Club in Singapore)

At Maison Cazes, an excellent restaurant, La Table d’Aimé, threatens to overshadow the small glimpse of oak barrels cellared onsite. Established in 1895 and in the hands of the 4th generation Emmanuel Cazes today, the 220-hectare domaine was one of the first in the region to be organic and biodynamic certified. Their dry reds like Le Credo (Grenache dominant) and Alter (Syrah dominant) are fresh and well-balanced, while the precious VDN are aged in very old barrels that Emmanuel describes as “completely confit by the wine” over the years, giving a signature elegance. A new project, the 90-hectare Les Clos de Pauliles receives more sea and mineral influences and will be worth tracking in following years.

Chateau de L’Ou is a well-kept secret no longer, thanks to its uncompromising pursuit of quality. Séverine and Philippe Bourrier farm their estate organically, with the word l’ou being Catalan for egg after the egg-shaped well on the property. While Syrah is a bigger project for them, their Grenache Rhapsody is made in an integrated vinification, in the same virgin 500L barrel from start to finish, including 5 week maceration with manual punchdown, then emptied and pressed before the cooper comes onsite to seal the barrels. (Distributed by Terroir Wines in Singapore).

A surprise awaits at the outstanding boutique Domaine Gardiés in the village of Vingrau, at the foothills of the Pyrenees. Jean Gardiés took over family vines in the 1990s and has been winning rave reviews for his structured, precise winemaking with a lingering impression of the terroir: black schists from Espira Agly and clay-limestone from Vingrau. The Clos des Vignes Rouge is 70% Grenache-Carignan from their oldest 100-year-old vines, and is traditionally macerated in concrete tanks before ageing 12 months in 600L barrels. Jean’s meticulousness extends to premium handmade glassware for the tasting.

Grenache/Garnacha's old vine revival has prompted its rising star status overseas, which is helping it shed its former value wine reputation while catapulting into a category of sophisticated wines worth seeking out. What's old can indeed be new again.

HIGHLIGHT OF WINERIES IN:

DO CARIÑENA 01

.The largest and oldest Aragonese DO, Cariñena was demarcated in 1932 and also shares its name with the grape (known as Carignan in France). . Garnacha under vine: 4,400 hectares

Winery: Bodegas Ignacio Marín (1903) is a prominent familyowned estate in the heart of the Cariñena. Their historic winery with its breathtaking spiral design combines gravity technology and an emphasis on oak ageing. A wide range of wine styles is available, though the more modern ones stand out. For instance, the Wine Wings range is named for various birds, with the Golondrina representing a multi-vintage harmony of 2016 and 2017 Garnacha (from 60 year old vines) with 2015 Cariñena (grape). Elegant, lively and rounded, this ‘riserva especial’ lives up to its joyful label.

DO CAMPO DE BORJA 02

.Campo de Borja received its DO status in 1980, professing very old vineyards dating to 1890 and with half of its Garnacha acreage qualifying as old vines at 30 to 50 years old. You can identify this DO by full-bodied and intensely fruity style. . Garnacha under vine: 4,000 hectares

Winery: Bodegas Aragonesas (1984) is one of the largest wineries in the appellation, thanks to 3,700 hectares producing 7 million bottles annually. It prides itself on Garnacha, produced under flagship brands Fagus, Coto de Hayas, Garnacha Centenaria, Galiano, Don Ramón and Aragonia. Aragus Ecologica, an organic bottling, is redolent of the wild rosemary that dot its vineyards, while the highest end Galiano commands a €80 price tag. With yields of less than 1kg per 50-year-old vine, the fruit is carefully managed for an exceptionally silky and high-toned palate.

DO CALATAYUD 03

.Calatayud achieved its DO status in 1990, an encouraging sign for its cooperative and private bodegas to pursue higher quality Garnacha. It has since introduced a new category of Calatayud Superior, made from vines that are at least 50 years old. . Garnacha under vine: 2,000 hectares

Winery: Bodegas San Alejandro (1962) comprises a cooperative of 150 families, working 950 hectares and 1,250 plots – one of the largest in the area. Its range is accordingly varied, among them Evodia for a perfumed, intense and modern bottling; Las Rocas with its characteristic freshness and granitic character; and Balthasar

FRANCE

CHATEAU L'OU GRENACHE RHAPSODY 2017

100% Grenache Noir. Elegant, full-bodied and redolent of the herbs of the Côtes Catalanes. $110 from terroir.com.sg

MAS AMIEL MILLÉSIME '69

90% Grenache Noir, 5% Carignan, 5% Maccabeu. Silky with cigar, walnut and toffee notes. $289.80 from thevintageclub,sg

DOMAINE GARDIÉS CLOS DES VIGNES ROUGE

70% Grenache Noir & Carignan, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Intense black fruit finessed with velvety tannins.

MAISON CAZES EGO 2017

50% Grenache Noir, 35% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre. Medium weight, black fruit with a top note of chocolate, with a grippy finish.

MAISON CAZES AIMÉ CAZES 1978

80% Grenache Blanc, 20% Grenache Noir. Pristine, complex oxidative style sweet wine with ample aromas of Seville oranges and figs.

SPAIN

LAS MORADAS DE SAN MARTÍN ALBILLO REAL 2018

100% Albillo. This white grape has smoothness from its high glycerol index, with minerality and salinity from its location.

LAS MORADAS DE SAN MARTÍN SENDA 2016

100% Garnacha. Very mineral background for the rich plum flavours against light oak, no sulphites.

BODEGAS ARAGONESAS GALIANO 2013

100% Garnacha. Intense cherry red with fresh mineral notes and silky palate, finishing long.

BODEGAS IGNACIO MARIN GOLONDRINA

Multi-vintage blend of Garnacha (2016 & 2017) and Cariñena (2015). Lively fruit, very fresh.

BODEGAS SAN ALEJANDRO CLOS BALTHAZAR 2017

Garnacha with small percentage of Miguel de Arco, Bobal and Moristel. Floral, continental character with refreshing acidity and refined fruit.

Gracián, its emblematic range. Named after the famed 17th century writer who was born 8km from the site of the winery, this range fully respects the purity and minerality of old vine Garnacha, with savoury concentration of the fruit.