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8 minute read
Slow Wine Guide USA
from Goff Books Catalog
by ORO Editions
Edited by Giancarlo Gariglio
The very best wines are awarded the Top Wine accolade. Among these we have the Slow Wines—which beyond their outstanding sensory quality are of particular interest for their sense of place, environmental sustainability or historical value—and the Everyday Wines, representing excellent value at prices within $30.
The most interesting wineries on the other hand are awarded the Snail, for the way they interpret Slow Food values (sensory perceptions, territory, environment, identity) while offering good value for money; the Bottle, to wineries whose wines are of outstanding sensory quality throughout the range; the Coin to those estates offering excellent value for money.
Contributors
Giancarlo Gariglio: Editor-in-chief
Deborah Parker Wong: Coordinating Editor
Pam Strayer: Senior Editor
Editorial Assistant: Jonathan Gebser
Other contributors
Gwendoyln Alley, Peg Champion, Catherine Fallis, MS, Charles Kelly, Laurie Love, Sally Ohlin, Karla Ravandi, Leslie Rosa, Amber Turpin, L.M. Archer, Sophia McDonald Bennett, Catherine Fallis, MS, Ellen Landis, Neal D. Hulkower, Ph.D., Nancy Crosier, Robin Shreeves, and Kathleen Wilcox
Slow Wine Guide USA is a new and revolutionary guide to the wines of California, Oregon, New York, and Washington. Thanks to the help of a handful of expert contributors, we’ve selected the best wineries from each state and reviewed their most outstanding bottles.
The idea behind Slow Wine is simple: it acknowledges the unique stories of people and vineyards, of grape varieties and landscapes, and of their wines. The awareness that wine is more than just liquid in a glass helps wine lovers make better, more conscious choices and enhances the very enjoyment of this beverage. Since its beginnings in Italy twelve years ago, Slow Wine has combined its tasting sessions with equally important moments of exchange and debate with producers. The direct contact with winegrowers and winemakers allows for a genuine, authentic, and always up-to-date report on what’s happening in America’s vineyards and cellars.
Each winery receives a review divided in three sections: the first one is dedicated to the people who live and work at the winery, the second to the vineyards and the way they’re farmed, and the third to the finest wines currently available on the market.
The Slow Wine Guide evaluates over 400 different wineries and treats each with the utmost respect and attention. The Slow Wine team prides itself on the human contact it has with all producers, which is essential to the guide’s evaluations. While other guides limit their relationship to a blind tasting and brief write up, Slow Wine takes the time to get personal with each winery in order to create a wellinformed, detailed review of the wines themselves and the people behind the production. Slow Wine selects wineries that respect and reflect their local terroir and practice sustainable methods that benefit the environment. And for the first time ever, those wineries that receive the snail or the official Slow Wine seal are 100% free of chemical herbicides, a quality that the Slow Wine Guide continues to passionately support.
$25.00
5.5" x 9" Portrait
172pp
Softbound
978-1-954081-76-5
California
Brut Rosé 4 McFadden Vineyard & Blue Quail
108 Mendocino Carignan 2018 2 SLOW WINE Vinca Minor
25 Mendocino County Comptche Ridge Pinot Noir 2018 2 Anthill Farms Winery
102 Mendocino County Honeymoon 2018 1 Martha Stoumen Wines
79 Mendocino County Old Vine Carignane 2017 2 EVERYDAY WINE Porter Creek Vineyards
35 Mendocino County Oppenlander Vineyard Chardonnay 2017 1 SLOW WINE Campovida
33 Mendocino County The McNab 2016 2 Bonterra Organic Vineyards
93 Mendocino County Wild Thing Rendezvous Rosé 2019 3 Carol Shelton
SONOMA
RUTHERFORD LOS OLIVOS GRGICH HILLS ESTATE GRIMM’S BLUFF
1829 St. Helena Hwy. - tel. (707) 963-2784 www.grgich.com - info@grgich.com
PEOPLE -Rare is the winery that puts its founder’s image on the label of its top wines, but when that founder is Mike (or Miljenko) Grgich, the image fits. ACroatian immigrant who arrived in Napa with one simple suitcase and just a few bucks, Grgich (now 97) famously made the Chardonnay that won the 1976 Paris Tasting. Astoried career followed in partnership with Austin Hills (of Hills Bros. Coffee). These days Grgich’s daughter Violet serves as the winery’s president; Grgich’s nephew Ivo Jeramaz manages winemaking and production.
VINEYARDS -Grgich Hills has amassed a treasure trove of five estate vineyards that encompass the entire length of Napa Valley—from Calistoga in the north (good for Zinfandel) to Rutherford in the middle (prized for Cabernet) to Carneros in the south (perfect for Chardonnay). It grows another 166 acres of vines in American Canyon. In Yountville, its prized heritage Cabernet vineyard, has preserved old vines dating back to 1959.
WINES - Grgich wines have always stood out for elegance, consistency and age-worthiness.
T Yountville Old Vine Cabernet Sauvignon 2015
2 690 cases; 150 $ c Everything you’d expect from a perfectly balanced, old school Napa Cab - complex and fresh with red berry fruit. Seamlessly integrated, it’s an expression of timeless grace from the 1959 Yountville vines that its composed of. Rutherford Miljenko’s Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 2 1,135 cases; 70 $ - c - A newer wave style of Cab savory and complex, fruity, and herbal, with notes of chocolate and tobacco.
Paris Tasting Commemorative Chardonnay 2017 1 940 cases; 97 $ d - A gorgeously complex, top of the line Chardonnay impresses at first for its slightly creamy and rounded texture. Light on the entry, it then explodes on the palate with bright lemon, peach, a delicate whisper of pineapple, and citrus with a long, lingering finish.
Napa Valley Estate Chardonnay 2019 1 2,500 cases; 45 $ - a c - Layered, juicy, racy
Acres 366 - cases 65,000
Fertilizers compost, cover crops
Plant protection organic, sulphur
Weed control mechanical
Yeasts spontaneous fermentation
Grapes 100% estate-grown Certification organic
2445 Alamo Pintado Ave #102. - tel. (805) 691-9065 www.grimmsbluff.com
C This Demeter certified biodynamic ranch is a statement to what can be achieved when biodynamics are embraced from the outset.
PEOPLE - After living abroad in Monaco, Rick and Aurora Grimm relocated to California and purchased the bluff property in 2010. Bringing their love of European food and wine to the West Coast, they partnered with winemaker Paul Lato and biodynamic specialist Philippe Coderey and planted the first vines in 2012.
VINEYARDS -The vineyard rests at 850 feet above sea level overlooking the Santa Ynez River in Happy Canyon AVA. Through soil testing they discovered the estate’s unique series of sandy loam over clay and old riverbed rocks. Farmed biodynamically from the start, the warm days and cool evenings of Happy Canyon encourage a hands-off approach to their plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc.
WINES - South Africa native Ernst Stone is the winemaker, his goal is to craft elegant wines with pronounced sense of place.
T Happy Canyon Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 SLOW WINE 2 900 cases; 55 $ c - This ruby colored beauty sings of crème de cassis, tobacco leaf, cedary herbs, chocolate, and spice. With medium to full-bodied richness on the palate, it has notable freshness as well as beautiful purity and elegance.
Santa Ynez Valley Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2017 1 350 cases; 28 $ - a - The nose is pronounced with classic aromas of gooseberry, fresh green apple, lime rind, and racy minerals. Tropical zest and intriguing spice dances on the palate. The mouthwatering minerality is redolent of the wet river stones awash off the bluff below the vines. Happy Canyon Cliff Hanger Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 2 250 cases; 65 $ - c - Crème de cassis, toasted spice, dried herbs, new saddle leather, and graphite all emerge amongst concentration and firm tannin structure that ensures this wine has a long life ahead.
Acres 16.5 - cases 1,500
Fertilizers biodynamic compost Plant protection sulphur, organic, biodynamic preparations Weed control mechanical
Yeasts spontaneous fermentation
Grapes 100% estate-grown Certification biodynamic
CALIFORNIA
SONOMA
GUTHRIE FAMILY WINES HAMEL FAMILY WINES
610 Harbor Boulevard www.haarmeyerwinecellars.com
PEOPLE - Guthrie Family Wines is an idea born from the dreams of a winemaking couple, a small boutique brand launched in 2013 to showcase a minimalist approach to winemaking. Blair Guthrie, whose day job involves making high end Napa Cab, always knew he wanted his own brand as soon as he got into the wine industry. They have actualized that vision to have complete freedom, to sell direct to consumers and to produce bright, fresh “New California” wines for folks who crave something a bit more accessible and refreshing.
VINEYARDS - Guthrie sources all of their fruit, with high standards on using only organic. Blair says that one day he had an epiphany while shopping at Whole Foods, and asked himself “why do I not make my wines the way I eat?” Going forward, he decided to never buy fruit from a vineyard that is not farming organically or biodynamically.
WINES - Guthrie Wines are light, juicy, bright and clean. They pick early, which results in high aromatice and acid-driven, food friendly wine.
T Mendocino County Galaxy Carbonic Carignan 2019 EVERYDAY WINE 2 150 cases; 22 $ a - The high acidity and bright aromas of Carignan make it perfect for natural winemaking. The fruit comes from a 5th generation, old vine, dry-farmed vineyard in Mendocino County, important for making a lighter style red wine. It is fresh yet round, broad and juicy, full of strawberry, bubblegum, and an herbal, dusty nose from the whole-cluster style. Calaveras County Faux Picpoul Blanc 2019 1 150 cases; 22 $ a - A special wine with fruit sourced from the Rorick Heritage Vineyard in the Sierra Foothills. Limestone creates this mineral-driven, briny wine that displays pure “California sunshine,” as Guthrie puts it.
Sonoma County Electric Syrah 2018 2 150 cases; 28 $ - c - Another 100% whole cluster, traditional fermentation wine. A tiny bit of carbonic gives it a little bubblegum, with bright raspberry fruit and a spicy earthy character.
Acres 0 - cases 6,600
Fertilizers compost Plant protection copper, sulphur, organic
Weed control mechanical
Yeasts spontaneous fermentation
Grapes purchase 100% Certification none
15401 Sonoma Hwy. - tel. (707) 996-5800 www.hamelfamilywines.com - info@hamelfamilywines.com
PEOPLE -Pamela and George Hamel, Jr. bought a historic Sonoma Valley property and founded the winery in 2010 with their two sons, managing directors John B. Hamel II, and George F. Hamel III. Their sons run the family winery with a dream team of consultants including Pedro Parra (from Argentina) on terroir, Garrett Buckland (from Napa) on viticulture, Corinne Comme (from France) on biodynamics, and Alberto Antonini (from Tuscany) on winemaking.
VINEYARDS -The grapes come solely from four estate sites, which are all certified organic and biodynamic. Three are on the floor in the Sonoma Valley AVA—Tres Palmas in Kenwood and the Hamel Family Ranch and Armor Plate in Sonoma—while its Nuns Canyon vineyard is at higher elevation in the Moon Mountain District AVA. The Armor Plate vineyard was first planted in the 1890s and it still grows dry farmed, head trained Zinfandel.
WINES - Committed to biodiversity and biodynamics, Hamel also integrates animals—chickens, goats and cows —into its regenerative agriculture program on the ranch site.
T Moon Mountain District Nuns Canyon Vineyard 2017 2 215 casest; 160 $ c - This monovarietal Cabernet Sauvignon is archetypal for expressing its windy, higher-elevation terroir showing intensity from complex dark fruit and age worthy tannins. Sonoma Valley Isthmus 2017 2 1,260 cases; 85 $ - c -
A Bordeaux blend composed of one third mountain fruit and two thirds valley grapes. Full bodied, it offers up concentrated, dense, black cherry notes with integrated tannins on the long finish. Though enjoyable now, it’s a gem for cellaring.
Hamel Family Ranch Red Wine 2017 2 235 cases 160 $ - c - A Bordeaux blend from valley fruit with notes of blackberries and plums. Sonoma Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2019 2 760 cases; 48 $ - a c - light-footed, graceful, floral.
Acres 88 - cases 5,000
Fertilizers biodynamic compos, cover crops
Plant protection organic, biodynamic preparations
Weed control mechanical
Yeasts spontaneous fermentation
Grapes 100% estate-grown Certification biodynamic, organic