Contents
24 SAVE VS SPLURGE
Winter is coming, as we like to quote Jon Snow. Have you found the perfect coat yet?
32 WHO WHAT WEAR
GLAM
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE W W W.G L A M QATA R .CO M
OCTOBER 2015
Envy no more the flawless styles of Rihanna and Kendall Jenner. We got the low-down on how to spot their looks on a budget.
42 HAUTE COUTURE
The finely-crafted looks to admire, the beauty trends to ace and the sparkling jewellery to mesmerise. Autumn's couture looks are ones to keep.
Contents 60 A STUDY IN FASHION
This fashion week season is headlined by retrospective exhibitions in Europe by houses keen to remind us of their heritage.
62 SOUTH AMERICAN CHARM
Long-time friends Carolina Herrera and Mario Testino join forces to bring to life the South American charm in a lifestyle campaign.
66 OMANI JEWEL
Deema, Oman's first ever international jewellery brand, is testament to growing power and strength of women in the Gulf.
72 COOL COLLECTIVE
DKNY's new creative directors, the design duo of Public School, collaborates with Tumi for a travel collection that is too cool for school.
88 EDGY MAKEUP
Our writer Judi Jones gets a makeover with Kat Von D's edgy makeup line that has just launched in Qatar.
92 PINK RIBBON
We celebrate breast cancer awareness month with a helpful guide on early detection and preventive measures.
GLAM
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE OCTOBER 2015
ON THE COVER THE KAYYS AUTUMN WINTER 2015 CAMPAIGN
GLAM SOCIAL MEDIA
SINDHU NAIR FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH DEPUTY EDITOR EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI SENIOR CORRESPONDENT AYSWARYA MURTHY SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT AARTHI MOHAN PHOTOGRAPHER ROBERT ALTAMIRANO SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE
MANAGING EDITOR
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER
VENKAT REDDY HANAN ABU SIAM AYUSH INDRAJITH MAHESHWAR REDDY B
FREDRICK ALPHONSO MANAGER – MARKETING SAKALA A DEBRASS ASSISTANT MANAGER – MARKETING HASSAN REKKAB MATHEWS CHERIAN SONY VELLATT A H M IRFAN SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANT DENZITA SEQUEIRA ASSISTANT EVENTS MANAGER JASMINE VICTOR
BUSINESS HEAD
PRATAP CHANDRAN SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA BHIMAL RAI BASANTHA P
SENIOR ACCOUNTANT
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR–IN–CHIEF
CHIEF EXECUTIVE
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT
Inside this issue, Carolina Herrera and Mario Testino give us a special behind-the-scenes glimpse and their thoughts on collaborating for Carolina’s Autumn Winter 2015 campaign. Visit our Facebook page to view an exclusive video on the making of the campaign, which was shot in gorgeous townhouse encapsulating South American essence.
EVENTS OF THE MONTH The MidEast Watch & Jewellery Show 6th to 10th October Expo Centre Sharjah, UAE Held under the patronage of His Highness Dr Sheikh Sultan Bin Mohammed Al Qassimi, UAE Supreme Council Member and Ruler of Sharjah, the show will feature 500 exhibitors across 30,000 sq metres of exhibition space at all the six halls at ECS. The designs this season will be bright and bold, with an exciting assortment of jewellery that are rich in tones. This show will also be the curtain raiser for the momentous 40th edition of the exhibition, taking place next year. The exhibition is open from 12 noon to 10pm daily, and 4pm to 10pm on Friday, 9th October. Admission is free.
COMING UP
YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH SANDEEP SEHGAL ALPANA ROY
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H&M’s annual designer collaboration will be hitting stores next month and this year’s partnership with Olivier Rousteing of Balmain is definitely going to get the queues going at stores. We’ve got the exclusive interview with Olivier, who will be sharing his inspiration and thoughts on the collection.
Contributors Karen Nicolet Karen Nicolet is a fashion and lifestyle blogger and the marketing manager at the Doha Film Institute. She began her professional career in advertising and moved to film marketing, working on projects such as the Ajyal Youth Film Festival and Qumra. With a love for photography, fashion and writing, she started her blog ‘Clumsy Chic’ in 2012 as a creative outlet to keep her inspired. Since then, the blog has continuously evolved to bring inspirational stories in fashion, travel, food, design, and DIY to her readers. She has collaborated with brands like Fendi, Dior Beauty, Printemps and Turkish Airlines.
Angel Mallari Michael Angelo Mallari, or widely known as Angel Mallari, has been a steadfast with the GLAM team shooting an array of lifestyle and fashion-inspired photographs for our pages. Experimenting with lights and perspectives, Angel is always on the lookout for the next ‘Great Picture.’ The fun loving and creative photographer can be found at www. thescenestealer.com
YOUR VOICE ON TWITTER, FACEBOOK & INSTAGRAM On our September cover Kenny Ng: That was really different! Have never seen anything like this, especially the apple on the head. Cassandra Morell: The new designers coming from this region are thinking out-of-the-box! That is such a creative shoot!
Esmerelda van der Westhuizen With over eight years of spa experience, Esmerelda brings a wealth of knowledge from international roles to Doha as the manager of Spa by Clarins at Kempinski Marsa Malaz. Her talents boast an understanding of over 30 different leading cosmetic and beauty brands, as well as skills in offering the latest and innovative spa treatments and equipment.
Judith Jones Judith is a well-travelled, British expatriate with a passion for reading and writing. She has contributed to several publications on a variety of topics including travel, fashion, health and business; and has interviewed countless inspirational women along the way. Having eaten her way around Doha as a restaurant reviewer, she is now on a diet. Currently writing a travel memoir telling of her expat’ life living in such countries as Russia and the Caribbean, she is also making the most of her Qatar lifestyle.
LETTERS Thank you for the monthly Save Vs Splurge feature. It is really helpful, especially when the affordable items sometimes look more fashionable than the expensive ones. Joanne Thory Could you feature more international celebrities and what they are wearing? Nayla Al Aba Some of the bags that are featured in the magazine sell out really quickly in-stores! How can we get first dibs? Gwen Pall
G Talk Though we have always been at the forefront of bringing light to the growing fashion industry in Qatar, we understand that cultural misconceptions will always be a consideration in our work. We often get asked, especially by those newly arrived in this city, “Who buys all those fashionable clothing in the stores here, and don’t they just wear black all the time?” If style is not something of priority in your perceptions, then it is easy to overlook and dismiss the sea of black. Fortunately, the global fashion community has become increasingly interested in exploring the idea of inclusiveness and diversity to find different definitions of being stylish. Lanvin and Dolce & Gabbana are among the luxury brands that have sought out atypical models for their campaigns, from older women to those who prefer androgynous looks. But it is H&M’s latest casting of hijab-donning Mariah Idrissi in their video campaign that has caught our eye, because of its relevancy to our cultural archetype. Mariah, a social media style star based in London, looked effortlessly chic in a dusty pink overcoat, a pair of wide-legged palazzo pants worn with a basic white top, and pointy flat shoes, as she leaned casually against the door of a cafe. A pair of round-rim sunglasses gave her extra points for cool, and the whole outfit could have been worn by just about anybody of any cultural background, if it were not for the long scarf that Mariah had draped around her head and neck. The entire look was built from H&M’s collections, and there certainly isn’t a dedicated corner to hijab-sters at the stores, just as there are no dedicated departments for senior citizens or the transgendered at Lanvin or Dolce & Gabbana. And it works entirely both ways too. Uniqlo collaborated with hijab-wearing designer Hana Tajima on a collection that espoused modest silhouettes, but featured both hijab and non-hijab wearing models on its campaigns, looking highly comfortable in the pieces. And at the recent Coach SS16 show in New York, Muslim singer-songwriter Yuna rocked an urbanwear look from the brand, complete with a matching turban. So the question truly, is not who is buying what’s in the stores, but what wonderful style ideas have been born in the merging of culture and contemporary fashion.
EDITOR’S PICK WE CAN’T WAIT TO GET OUR HANDS ON THE APPLE WATCH HERMÈS. FEATURING FINELY CRAFTED LEATHER BANDS IN DISTINCTIVE STYLES FROM THE FRENCH LEATHER HOUSE, INCLUDING THE SINGLE TOUR, DOUBLE TOUR AND CUFF, WITH THE DESIGN AND FUNCTIONALITY OF THE APPLE WATCH, THIS IS THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS. THE WATCHES START FROM QR4,000.
BUZZ GLAM / NEWS
OCTOBER 2015
FILA COLLECTION FOR URBAN OUTFITTERS Sportswear brand Fila has teamed up with the retailer Urban Outfitters on FILA + UO, a collection for women which features updated FILA classics from the 1970s, 80s and 90s, including striped polo tees, raglan sweatshirts and athletic-detailed jackets inspired by the pieces worn by famous tennis players in the 1970s. FILO + UO will be available at 94 Urban Outfitters locations and via urbanoutfitters.com.
DAVID BECKHAM PARTNERS WITH KENT & CURWEN David Beckham has signed an exclusive five-year deal with the English heritage brand Kent & Curwen. This tie-up will see the star play a key role in the clothing retailer’s development. The ex-footballer and global style icon will be personally involved in multiple aspects of the label, from product development, market expansion and advertising, to store design and location. His multi-faceted role will include the creation of new collections and marketing campaigns, as well as the opening of new flagship stores in China and the launch of an e-commerce site. He is also expected to work with Kent & Curwen’s design team to develop a personal collection for AW 2016. “I’m always looking to work with brands and companies that have a rich history and authenticity,” said Beckham.
24 \ NEWS FASHION BUZZ ARMANI’S NEW ‘SÌ’ CAMPAIGN Screen star Cate Blanchett launched Giorgio Armani’s new fragrance ‘Si’. The 30-second promo for the scent from L’Oreal’s Giorgio Armani Parfums encourages viewers to associate the bottle with life, freedom, lightheartedness, love, togetherness and themselves. Blanchett appears in a variety of Armani clothing, accessories and footwear. The Australian actress, well known for films like The Aviator, The Lord of the Rings, and Blue Jasmine, was first associated with the Giorgio Armani Parfums fragrance since its launch in 2013.
CHALAYAN JOINS FASHION HOUSE VIONNET
GWEN STEFANI COLLABORATES WITH URBAN DECAY
Fashion designer Hussein Chalayan has joined the creative team at the French label Vionnet. The Cyprian-born British designer has worked with brands like Swarovski, Falke, and Puma, and won the British Fashion Award, two years consecutively. Chalayan will be working with Albino Damato and Diego Dolcini. He had previously worked with Vionnet on the January 2014 line and returns to focused design concepts while finding a piercing coherence amongst its many components. “My aim, in the long run, remains to create an authentic creative community around Vionnet: a collective of individual minds working in unison, adding new voices to the chorus as we go along,” said Chalayan.
Cosmetics brand Urban Decay is set to release its first celebrity designer collaboration, with a new collection signed by Gwen Stefani. She has worked closely with the brand on the limitededition collection, offering insights on everything from shades to packaging. “Everyone in my life knows I absolutely love make-up, it’s my war paint. To be able to collaborate with people who get that concept and who are just as passionate about it, is a dream come true” said Stefani. The collection includes products that she actually wears every single day. The UD | Gwen Stefani collection will launch in November and will be available in Urban Decay stores and through Sephora, Ulta and Macy’s.
26 \ TRENDS 2 ●
1 ● 1 ●
2 ●
SAVE
3 ●
VS
SPLURGE
3 ●
COAT CHECK
4 ●
SAVE 1 Conscious Collection bomber jacket, QR335, ●
H&M, Villaggio Mall. 2 Leather biker jacket, QR595, Pull & Bear, Villaggio Mall. ● 3 Cape sweater, QR600, Stylestalker, West L.A. ● 4 One direction jacket, QR585, Premonition, West L.A. ●
What’s your fail-proof coat style every autumn? The one that you always end up grabbing right before you head out the door, just because it matches with everything and is all so comfortable? A jacket is always a saviour that instantly polishes a look, and it is also the statement piece that sets the tone for the rest of your outfit. This season, invest in a solid, basic black sweater as the building block, the experiment with colours and shapes for outerwear. The bomber jacket is a trendy addition that works well over the abaya, while the classic leather jacket gives off cool vibes during the day. Have an oversized coat handy for special occasions, as it is all the rage on the catwalks.
4 ●
SPLURGE 1 Printed sequinned-sleeve bomber jacket, QR3,300, OTT. ● 2 Leather mink collar jacket, QR27,000, ●
Alexander McQueen, Dubai Mall.
3 Black sweatshirt, QR1,500, Stella McCartney, Dubai Mall. ● 4 Cape coat, QR1,175, Ted Baker, Villaggio Mall. ●
GLAM / ON OUR
RADAR
OCTOBER 2015
AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW
CINDY CHAO The Art Jewel Four Seasons Collection Ruby Rose Earri
Bottega Veneta art of collaboration book cover image
CINDY CHAO’S NEW ADDITION TO THE FOUR SEASONS COLLECTION
BOTTEGA VENETA: ART OF COLLABORATION Hitting bookstores this month, this is the fashion book to get your hands on. Documenting the collaborations between the house’s creative director, Tomas Maier, and all the artists who have contributed to the creation of the house’s campaign, it is a comprehensive chronicle of Tomas’s initiative that started in 2002. The designer worked with some of the most interesting photographers of our times on these campaigns, many of whom are from outside the fashion
world, including Peter Lindbergh, Steven Meisel, Nick Knight and Robert Longo. The book sheds light on how these individuals interpreted the house’s modernist aesthetics, making it a book not just for fashion lovers, but also photography aficionados. Tim Blanks wrote the foreword, while literary critic Daphne Merkin contributes the essays for the book. (image caption:BOTTEGA VENETA: Art of Collaboration by Tomas Maier, Rizzoli New York, 2015.)
Cindy Chao - The Art Jewel unveils the latest Black Label masterpiece from its Four Seasons Collection, the ruby rose earrings and brooch set. The ruby encrusted earrings and brooches were originally created for Ziyi Zhang’s custom-made gown by Carolina Herrera, which she wore at this year’s China-themed Met Gala. When shown a sketch of Ziyi Zhang’s gown, Cindy envisioned an image of “crimson rose petals drifting in the wind, and gracefully falling on snow-covered ground,” she says. The essential idea was to evoke an interactive experience in wearing brooches – the wearer is encouraged to devise her own story and mood through the placement of the rose petals. Accentuating the centre diamonds, eight gradients of rubies were paved to mirror the velvety and soft texture of real rose petals. The vivid colour combination of bold ruby petals and yellow lacquered pistils resemble the natural colours found in a red rose, while the use of a specially oxidised silver base, and yellow gold tracing the silhouette at the back of the petals, produce a surreal sense of allure and elegance.
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STELLASPORT AW15 The Stella McCartney and Adidas collections have now become a staple each season, and this autumn, the inspiration is drawn from wildlife with explosive prints lending charm to part of the collection. Tights, pants, hoodies, tank tops and jackets have been revamped with the StellaSport signature, which gives a stylish edge to practical pieces that boast climateregulating technology. The new collection also includes a range of
creative bright blue layering, daring typefaces and denim detailing. Key pieces include tights in midnight grey, featuring a front-facing denim design on seamless construction for total freedom of movement, woven shorts with granite lettering to show off your ‘tough girl’ attitude, socks and a racerback sports bra in electric blue and bright flash red tipping, as well as the Yvori shoe, which is made from a suave stretch suede canvas.
LES 3 BOUTONS A 14-year-old girl receives a surprise from the local postman - a package with a magical magenta ball dress, ten times her teenage size. From here, Jasmine - a headstrong realist, yet dreamer - takes us on a modern 'anti-fairy tale' through caves and stalagmites, streets and shop windows, obsessions and everyday empowerment. Les 3 Boutons, the 10th commission from Miu Miu Women’s Tales, is directed by the legendary 87-year-old Agnès Varda, the winner
of the first honourary Palm d’Or at the Cannes Film Festival this year. This movie is full of playful hallmarks from her six decades of filmmaking. “It’s playing a game with reality,” Varda says. “The game is called cinema.” The story reverses the clichés of girlhood where Jasmine prefers school uniform and education to the easy allure of a Cinderella lifestyle. Women’s Tales is Miu Miu’s initiative of short-film series by women who critically celebrate femininity in the 21st century.
ASPINAL OF LONDON X ÊTRE CÉCILE A bold and quirky collection of bags comes to life in a collaboration between Aspinal of London and fashion label Être Cécile. The Être Cécile team selected their favourite styles from the Aspinal of London collection and re-worked them as an extension of the Être Cécile AW15 collection. The collection features the bold use of contrasting panels of colour in calf and rubberised leathers , soft nappa leather printed in plaid, applied in an out-of-proportion scale and bold 1990's inspired graphics. Co-founder of Être Cécile, Yasmin Sewell, describes the collaboration as subversive, in the best English fashion tradition. “I love the idea of taking something grown-up, classic, serious and messing it up, having fun, taking it to an unexpected place." The collection spans five key bag styles including the chic ladylike Mayfair bag, the cute mini trunk clutch, the sporty rucksack and mini rucksack and the utilitarian essential tote. The hero bags are accompanied by a range of small leather accessories and notebooks.
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DIOR CHIFFRE ROUGE This watch, though categorised for men, has caught our eye for its subtle and sleek aesthetics. The 2015 version is a limited edition of 100 pieces, featuring the Elite 682 movement by the Zenith manufacture. With a widened face and slightly slimmer watchcase, the timepiece retains its original asymmetric style, thanks to the pushbutton at 10 o’clock. All of this rests on a perforated black leather strap.
Timekeeping in TAG HEUER CARRERA - CARA DELEVINGNE To celebrate Cara Delevingne joining the brand as one of its newest ambassadors, a special edition of the Carrera has been released. With the same signature, the elegant case with faceted lugs and the clear, highly legible dial, are in stark contrast to its entirely black and charcoal grey treatment. For a feminine touch, and to add an edge to the look, the appliques and hands are rose gold-plated. A version with a diamondstudded bezel is also available, as well as one with an aged black calfskin strap, which is padded with tone-on-tone stitching for a haute couture look. The back of the case is stamped with the majestic head of a lion to denote the star sign under which Cara was born in August 1992, while the inside of the strap bears the signature of the star herself, in rose gold.
TRENDS / 33 VARINA BY SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Inspired by the Vara bow, a symbol that iconic of the brand, the Varina cocktail watch is feminine with a minute charm. The case is reminiscent of the buckle on the famed ballet flat, while the iconic grosgrain bow is transformed into an elegant decoration on the glossy patent leather strap, which can be replaced with another strap entirely in grosgrain fabric.
Style JAEGER-LECOULTRE CELEBRATES VAN GOGH
VERSACE KHAI The rose gold case with a domed bezel, interprets Versace’s iconic features. The Medusa head sits in the centre of the dial, against a richly-chiselled diamond pattern background and is surrounded by an area decorated with a guilloché sunray design. The iconic Greek key decorates the flange and the Medusa head is reprised on the embossed crown. Available in a metal bracelet or a glossy alligator-print leather strap, the topof-the-range model stands out with its diamond-adorned bezel, blazing red topaz-studded indexes and trendy burgundy strap.
Jaeger-LeCoultre and the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam are presenting a limited edition of the Reverso à Eclipse watch featuring Van Gogh’s iconic Sunflowers on the dial, in homage to the Dutch master. Painted in 1889, the original Sunflowers canvas dates to the final period in Van Gogh’s life and is owned by the Van Gogh Museum. Craftsmanship, art and heritage come together to where the enamellers recreated the painting of Van Gogh’s infamous Sunflowers on the dial. This unique masterpiece, of which only five examples have been crafted, is now on display at the Van Gogh Museum.
WHO WHAT WEAR On the red carpet, off the runway and on the street, celebrities bring their style game.
GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI FOR JANET JACKSON The legendary Janet Jackson is back with a new album this autumn and the popstar is still as stylish as ever with her edgy and urban influences. For the cover of her new album, Unbreakable, Janet wore a black suede fringe lace-up bootie from Giuseppe Zanotti Design’s AW2015 collection. The shoemaker also custom-made several pairs of signature sneakers for Janet’s Unbreakable World Tour that kicked off last month in Vancouver. “I am thrilled to have been asked by Janet to create the shoes for her tour. She has been a great friend for many years, and I have the utmost respect for her as one of the most iconic and outstanding artists and style icons of our time. It is a true honour and pleasure to see her wear and enjoy my special creations made for her. We are so excited to see her on tour. I, along with all her fans, are really overjoyed,” says Giuseppe Zanotti. The special edition shoes are available in selected stores during the time of the tour.
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A VISION IN WHITE Swedish actress Alicia Vikander has been making waves in Hollywood recently, and as the new spokesmodel for Louis Vuitton, she’s cutting a pretty stylish image. At the New York premiere of her latest movie, The Man From U.N.C.L.E, she wore a dress from Louis Vuitton’s Resort 2016 collection. Complete the runway look with a dual-tone Steamer MM bag and a pair of white ankle-high military-inspired boots.
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CASUAL FRIDAY Rihanna is a darling in both the music and the fashion worlds, and is known for her off-beat and urban style. Pairing a hooded sweatshirt with a pair of dainty Stuart Weitzman leg-wrap sandals, this is the ultimate mix and match. Get the Rihanna look by pairing the luxury footwear with high-street pieces, a lace-hem skirt from H&M or a statement sweater from Dimepiece.
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MIDRIFF MANIA Kendall Jenner’s height and slim silhouette have made her one of the most sought-after models in recent catwalk shows. If you have it and are ready to flaunt it, go for this Kendal get-up with a co-ord set of a cropped top and matching skirt. We recommend this tribal print set from Torn By Roony and just like Kendal, pair the look with gladiator sandals from Stuart Weitzman.
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FOCUS / 45
COVETABLE
HAUTE COUTURE Armani Prive
46 Armani Prive It is a celebration of colour from the familiar neon fuchsia, to the mysterious blend of lapis lazuli blue with malachite green for Armani PrivĂŠ. Giorgio Armani manipulates deep and intense palettes to evoke a sensual emotion and an eccentric attitude walks the line just between formal dressing and theatrical flamboyance. Black sets the tone for the requisite foundation and the application of colours brings the story of the collection to life through embroidered Swarovski crystals and shimmering lurex
details. The plumage feather extravaganza, which comes in form of coats, dresses and trimmings, is a complex weave of silk thread, wool and trimmed chenille. Voluminous dresses and skirts flare from a fitting bodice, a silhouette similar to the close-fitting jackets with emphasised shoulders paired with colour-block soft velvety trousers. A plunging neckline long velvet dress with chenille fringes, and a sleeveless top made entirely of degrade fuchsia feathers has our hearts set on a night of celebration.
FOCUS / 47 Atelier Versace “With the ethereal drama of deconstruction and sumptuous raw edges, it is the passions of a woman, exposed and elevated,� says Donatella Versace on the collection. The feminine signature of the house meets an edgy rebellious spirit delivered through high platform heels on all the looks, be it as a boot or a sandal. Tailoring is cleverly subtle with minimal details, allowing the lightweight chiffon layers to float. A new sense of ease comes from an oversized embellished sweater
which hangs off the shoulder and is worn over a floor-length embellished slip dress that is held by slender shoulder straps. Micro sequins are double-faced in silver and purple to create transparency on a dramatic long gown with cut-outs, while bands of silk chiffon are decorated with Swarovski crystals and chainmail. Transparency is a recurring theme, in the softness of a long sheer dress with velvet-lined boning and crystal embroidered flowers, and in the lace.
48 Chanel Karl Lagerfeld transformed the Grand Palais into an opulent casino with stars such as Kristen Stewart, Julianne Moore and Vanessa Paradis crowding around the blackjack tables as a highlight to the show. Models resemble 1920's starlets, with short and severe flapper girl hair and theatrical make-up in the form of bold, straight brows and deep red lips. A boxy aesthetic dominates in indispensable two-piece suits of straight lines and top-heavy forms. Shoulders are emphasised with bulky jackets, while collars were kept
wide or high and military. Utilitarianism comes in the outsized woollen jackets with deep pockets and large, contrasting lapels, while skirts are worn narrow and to the knee. Karl introduces jackets made entirely from a singular piece of fabric, using a new 3D technique, Selective Laser Sintering, for a ‘faux quilting’ effect. “The idea was to take the most iconic jacket from the 20th century and create a 21st century version, which technically wasn’t even imaginable at the time it came about,” the designer says.
FOCUS / 49
Elie Saab Elie Saab’s collection of gilded lace gowns with intricately woven motifs finds inspiration in the days of the Byzantine princesses. Referencing his own early work in the nineties, the gowns were reinterpreted to evoke the glistening, golden palaces of Byzantium. Painstakingly embroidered vines and foliage cover a variety of dresses in lace, silk tulle and chiffon, several with flowing floor-length capes. Mink fur details cropped sleeves, collars and purses, while earthy green, burgundy and black shades complement the golden glare. The nostalgic designer closed the show with a wedding gown described as “the very soul” of the house. The gold, sleeveless gown with a voluminous skirt, long train and lace embroidered veil, is a reminder of the dress worn by his wife Claudine at his own wedding, 25 years ago.
Ralph & Russo British-based fashion house Ralph & Russo leads the way with a fairytale extravaganza of old-school enchantment, featuring gorgeous, glittering gowns as its centrepiece. From silk puffball dresses to romantic ruffled column skirts, the essence of the collection is decadently feminine. Creative director Tamara Ralph narrates volumes in bold and subtle ways, balancing out the puffball structures with whimsical chiffon overlays that lend embroidered full-length dresses a swishy effect. Narrow forms are offset by billowing ostrich feather capes or gauzy shoulder panels, while a series of slinky Seventies-style jumpsuits gives a modern touch. Fabrics are luxurious, ranging from graceful chiffons to Chantilly lace, with touches of glass beading, brocade and fur, perfecting the luxurious aesthetic. The colour palette reminds of royal elements of crisp whites and creams, blush pinks, soft metallic and burnished jewel tones.
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Giambattista Valli Contemporary form with vestiges of romance, inspires the voluminous skirts and dresses in cascades of tulle that trail the catwalk. Delicate mini-dresses get a grandeur treatment with the addition of sweeping trains while tops become a statement, thanks to fluid peplums that fall to the back of the ankle. Amidst the billowing maxi dresses and the Grecian-style robes, slim-fitting lace trousers, straight-cut
Schiaparelli Bertrand Guyon’s debut collection for the recently re-established Italian house Schiaparelli, is visionary, strong and bold. Colours are wild and spirited, ranging from ruby reds and hot pinks, to mermaid tones and zesty citrus hues. Clashing perspectives feature heavily, with loud beige plaids offset by pink furs and embellished blouses teamed with light, shimmery skirts. There’s also an emphasis on the mixing and matching of fabrics to create texture and depth. Brocade coats, sequin tops, jacquard suits, cashmere trousers, minks and tweeds blend together to achieve an overall effect of unconventional elegance. Accessories are quirky, like the whimsical and imaginative sculpted tiara.
minis and minimalistic smocks convey a contemporary touch. The Italian designer indulges his romantic side in the swathe of delicate floral motifs in sweet pinks and masculine blacks against an opulent backdrop of silver and cream. An exciting contrast runs throughout the collection, with flashes of acidic orange, mustard yellow and emerald green, contributing a psychedelic undercurrent to the pieces.
FOCUS / 51
HIGHLIGHTS
Dior Lightness is key at Dior, and is inspired by a Pointillist church. Silhouettes are fluid and breezy, pitching languid, relaxed lines and insouciant forms. From flowing, semi-sheer maxi dresses to ankle-length swing coats, the focus is on movement and grace. Fabrics are rich and luxurious, ranging from taffetas and creped silks, to velvets with the odd touch of regal fur.
Ilja Visser The architectural collection focuses on exaggerated 90's proportions, riffing on oversized jackets and salopettes, while floating asymmetric slip dresses inject a feminine softness.
Ulyana Sergeenko Inspired by a woman living in a Soviet communal apartment, the setting for a “bizarre form of shared living�, the collection fluidly explores the imaginary angles and spaces of the apartment. Womanly silhouettes are vertical and light, and decorative confetti-esque embellishments details the pieces.
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THE JEWELS
Soie Dior
Acte V – The Escape
Simply meaning 'Dior Silk' in French, the high jewellery collection imagines silk in the form of a ribbon that binds couture with the world of jewellery. Christian Dior’s fine jewellery creative director, Victoire de Castellane, captures the fraction of a second between one motion and the next, a pink sapphire on a pleat between two gold paves, or a diamond suspended between two undulating tails. “When you play with a ribbon, it’s instinctive, ephemeral, and I wanted to keep that notion of freedom,” he explains. In each piece, gold is manipulated for optimal freedom of movement. River of diamonds necklaces are composed of different cuts - marquise, baguette, oval, pear, brilliant - mounted at different heights, so that their relief conveys the shiny finish of the silk fabric.
The Escape is the second chapter in Louis Vuitton’s Acte V collection which looks into modern time where gems are highlighted by futuristic architectural style. Each piece is distinctive for its fluidity, as seen on an array of supple Bayadère (multi-strand) necklaces, sensual bracelets, voluptuous clip earrings and opulent rings. The hallmark of the collection is the V motif, which adapts to gentle curves, fades into abstraction, picks up on the aquatic metaphor, explores the fan motif and replicates the lotus flower.
Les Talismans de Chanel Continuing Chanel’s signature of lucky charms and symbolic pieces, the collection evokes the idea of the mythical and magical protective powers of the talisman. Capturing a sense of emanating hypnotic light, the pieces are centred on quatrefoil patterns. With a combination of mythical and natural totems and charms that are said to bring good fortune to the possessor, the collection sees a combination of Japanese cultured pearls, sapphires, multi-colored lacquer and enamel, and diamonds.
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GET THE LOOK Atelier Versace A bold and slightly bohemian festival vibe complete with flower garlands for the hair, marks the spot for the look. Models sported luminous, dewy skin, with natural-looking brows and a rose-pink lip. The real focal point was the eyes, which were ringed in a vibrant, shimmery green that smattered down towards the cheekbone for an ethereal look.
Chanel This is the look that had everyone talking. Karl Lagerfeld’s hit squad, comprising make-up artist Tom Pecheux and hair stylist Sam McKnight, pulled together a challenging, tomboyish aesthetic inspired by the 1920s. Eyebrows were exaggeratedly bold, elongated and straight, and were offset by striking red lips with the cupid’s bow rounded out for a doll-like effect. Lashes were kept bare so as to not compete, while an angular sweep of blush kept things showy. You might want to forgo the bobbed wig though, unless of course, you have a short bob to begin with!
Armani Privé Giorgio Armani Privé’s “shocking” show in Paris featured a bold, punkish and unapologetic make-up look centred on fuchsia lips. Beauty artist Linda Cantello created a flamboyant make-up vibe by teaming a nude, matte base with softly smudged eyes, using a hint of grey shadow and liner. Brows were dark but slightly blurred. She then filled in the mouth with a show-stopping pink, resulting in a pretty tomboy effect. “Shocking. Break the rules, dare to play at being provocative. Why not wear fuchsia in autumn? Pink is the new red,” says Linda. She prepared the models’ skin using Armani’s Crema Nera Extrema Supreme Crème Réactivante for a luminous base, before using her fingers to apply the Crema Nuda foundation for a natural-looking coverage and the High Precision Retouch to conceal any imperfections. A sweep of Poudre Libre Microfil was then used to keep everything in place.
TREND REPORT
IT IS A MELANGE OF INFLUENCE THIS SEASON, AND THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE. WE PICK OUT SOME OF THE MOST STRIKING TRENDS TO ACE YOUR AUTUMN WARDROBE. Missoni
Yigal Azrouel
ASYMMETRY Hemlines, collars, sleeves, silhouettes, and just about anything can go asymmetrical this season. The tilted perspectives look just as natural on separate pieces, or as an asymmetrical effect achieved through layering for the cold. Alexis Mabille
Stella McCartney
CANDIES There were candy pinks, blues and yellows all over and even an electrifying palette at Mary Katrantzou, but Prada won the prize for the sweetest tooth with an almost edible-looking collection of futuristic Balenciaga baby-doll outfits in pastel shades. Prada
Mary Katrantzou
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Marni
TRIBAL WARRIORS Strength and grace is all the rage and designers embody it through collections that evoke nomadic and tribal princesses.
Dsquared2
Tory Burch
FLORAL Floral prints have remained a constant on the catwalks for a while now, and in autumn, it comes in a sensual and mysterious interpretation, mostly as appliquĂŠs on sheer pieces.
Dries Van Noten
Monique Lhuillier
Dolce & Gabbana
56 Roberto Cavalli
Michael Kors
Purificacion Garcia
FRINGES Tassels and fringes continue from last season, but in more subtle forms. They decorate the trims of a Michael Kors look, run down the lines of a Roberto Cavalli dress and edge a Purificacion Garcia tweed dress.
Salvatore Ferragamo
FUR Ubiquitous, in all shapes, colours and sizes. Draped over one shoulder to mimic a stole from the 1940s, or extravagantly fashioned into oversized collars and cuffs on coats, jackets, dresses and gloves. Our favourite is the V-neck trim on a Balenciaga dress.
Balenciaga
Jason Wu
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Carven
THE WHITE DRESS The alternative proposition to the black dress, it is a burst of light for a dark winter. Texture gives life to the otherwise solid colour, as Victoria Beckham contrasts with cut outs, Isabel Marant hems with layers, and Roberto Cavalli goes bi-material. Victoria Beckham
Roberto Cavalli
MIXED MEDIUM It popped up in leather, suede and fur creations at Fendi, in silky coats in autumn browns and reds at Etro and as a subtle grey transition in Carolina Herrera. It is perfect as a playful addition or as a detail highlight for pockets and collars.
Etro
Mc
Carolina Herrera
58 Issey Miyake
Kenzo
Paule Ka
LARGER THAN LIFE Large wraps that are almost blanket-like is the new jacket, while coats become oversized to envelope the body. Silhouettes look out of proportion but it is the perfect style to cosy up to during the cold days.
FANCY PANTS Trousers get an edgy update with Dsquared2 jazzing up the peg leg look, with trousers billowing out round the thighs before tapering down to a slim-line fit that is cut off at mid-calf, while Armani did a tamed version in subdued greys and marine blues.
Lanvin
Hanley Mellon
Giorgio Armani
TRENDS / 59 Philipp Plein
Lacoste
SPORTSWEAR The active life is here to stay, and this season, sports silhouette gets a luxury makeover with Lacoste’s tennis dress embracing fashion’s slim lines, DKNY’s sweatshirt becomes a dress, while Philipp Plein goes all out with turning a jersey into a fur number. DKNY
THE BEDROOM LOOK Gucci’s new creative director, Alessandro Michele, stunned by unveiling furry slippers that looked like they were borrowed from Star Wars’ Chewbacca. The shoes spilt opinions, but when viewed in their entirety, are meant to give off the straight-out-bed lo. Flat hair, a purposefully unkempt outfit, or just wrapped in a coat are meant to look as if you are running out of the house for a quick coffee from the store downstairs.
Max Mara
Just Cavalli
Gucci
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Paul Smith
Michael Kors
TWEED The woollen cloth loved by the British country set is back with a vengeance. Emporio Armani and Michael Kors both do cape versions in different lengths and styles, while Paul Smith channels his tailoring finest.
WAIST BELT The kimono obi belt-inspired trend pops up in the most unexpected places, leather jackets, long-line dresses and even on quilted puff parkas. The belts are textured and are a statement accessory on their own.
Salvatore Ferragamo
McQ-AW15
Isabel Marant
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BEAUTY ALONG WITH SOME CONCEPTUAL RUNWAY PRESENTATIONS, SOME DRAMATIC BEAUTY LOOKS DRIVE HOME THE COLLECTIONS' VISUAL MESSAGES. JACQUEMUS
RICK OWENS
The two-faced models at Jacquemus sported an eye-catching Picasso-esque look, which saw double facial features drawn on with eyeliner.
Models were sporting full faces of gold and silver leaf make-up to match the collection’s sphinx theme. The addition of 3D foil shapes gave the look depth and texture.
ANREALAGE
CHRISTINE PHUNG
MANISH ARORA
Cult Japanese label Anrealage, took things to the limit in its conceptual show, with models made up in black paint to match the monochrome collection and wearing helmets in the same hue.
A contemporary inversion of the fingerless glove was on show at Christine Phung, where models’ fingertips were painted in pastel shades to match the clutch bags they were carrying.
Manish Arora’s warrior princess-themed show featured striking facial jewellry and war-paint inspired stripes. Boldly highlighted cheekbones and a gold lip kept things dramatic.
A STUDY IN FASHION A COLLECTIVE OF EXHIBITIONS THIS SEASON GIVES MEANING AND ORIGINS TO SOME OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL FASHION HOUSES OF THIS ERA, FROM DEFINITIVE GLIMPSES INTO THE LIFE AND TIMES TO THE INNER WORKINGS OF THEIR CREATIVE SANCTUM. BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
Yves Saint Laurent: Style is Eternal
Mademoiselle Privé In enchanted voyage through the history of the iconic French fashion house, Chanel, this exhibition documents the brand’s long and celebrated relationship with couture and the story behind the legendary Chanel No 5. It also shines the spotlight on the famous ‘Bijoux de Diamants’ haute jewellery collection, which was designed in 1932 by Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel herself and reissued by Karl Lagerfeld for the Spring Summer 2016 couture show. The exhibition is inspired by Coco Chanel’s charismatic personality and irreverent spirit, as well as by the achievements of Lagerfeld. Hosted at the Saatchi Gallery in London, Mademoiselle Privé will run until November 1.
With a look at the French fashion designer’s vision and his lasting influence on modern womenswear, the show features 50 of his most iconic garments, including pieces from the Russian Collection, the Mondrian dresses and the Tuxedo. The exhibition also highlights designs from his time at Christian Dior, including a Zéphirine dress that he created for the house when he was 22-years-old. The exhibition, taking place at The Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle, County Durham, is the first Saint Laurent retrospective in the UK. Known as one of the great 20thcentury fashion talents, he is famous for creating several key items of the modern woman’s wardrobe, such as the pea jacket and trench coat, the famous 'Le Smoking' jacket and trouser suit, which became one of his signature pieces. The exhibition runs until October 25.
TRENDS / 63 Couture/Sculpture French-Tunisian designer Azzedine Alaia’s dresses have been worn by first ladies and top models, but they have never fit better than in Rome, where they are on show in an exhibit that blends sculpture with couture. The bodyskimming, feminine garments on display seem perfectly at home off the runway, resting among Berninis and other classical masterpieces. "The exhibition at the Italian capital’s Villa Borghese is not a fashion exhibition, but rather an exhibition about sculpture, and more precisely about statues,”says gallery director Anna Coliva. "The designer’s aim was to make soft sculptures from a material that’s different from bronze or marble, but from cloth”, Coliva explains. Mysterious, long, monochrome robes float in the Villa Borghese’s opulent halls, standing out among the marble sculptures and classical paintings. Alaia selected each golden, grey, black or yellow gown to match the main colour in the paintings around it, making the exhibition about all the works together, not just his own. Fitted on barely-there, see-through or dark-coloured mannequins that give the garments shape, but don't attract attention to themselves, the dresses and their rich fabrics come alive with the artworks that surround them. Despite the challenge that the exhibit posed, Alaia slipped right into it, said exhibition curator Mark Wilson from the Netherlands, describing him as more of a “classical artist” than a fashion guru. The exhibition will run until October 25.
Lanvin Manifeste Orchestrated by Alber Elbaz with the support of his team, this exhibition immerses the visitor in the intimacy of the fittings, the excitement of the Lanvin shows and the beauty of its designs. This is a first in the history of the house, and allow an intimate glimpse into the inner workings of the creative process. Five rooms are designed as settings that showcase the work of the designer – not as a monologue, but as a continuous dialogue between fashion and photography. Over 350 shots by photographers such as But Sou Lai, Mark Leibowitz, Katy Reiss, James Bort, Juliette Da Cunha and Alex Koo reinterpret a passion for fashion. A video facility featuring the voice of the designer, illustrated by three projections of backstage images produced by Jean-Christophe Moine, and showing footage of the shows captured by Séraphin Ducellier, complements the exhibition’s design. This photo exhibition at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie in Paris, runs until October 31.
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wo creative powerhouses and longtime friends, Carolina Herrera and Mario Testino, collaborated to capture the essence of Carolina Herrera's Autumn Winter 2015 campaign. Bringing together the different portfolios of the brand, the campaign's imagery is endearing and intimate, celebrating familial ties and cultural traditions. Recognised for his ability to create impactful images rich in lifestyle and heritage, with his signature sophistication and gentle touch, the Peruvian-born photographer was the right partner for the first unified global campaign, solidifying the iconic style known to Carolina Herrera. “Doing the Carolina Herrera campaign is really exciting for me in this time in my life - it’s a world I know very well,” Mario says. “It’s a South American world coming to America-bringing its culture, tradition, values, and sense of family and chic. It’s how South Americans like to be dressed and present themselves, but the ethos really belongs to Carolina Herrera herself,” he adds. The story is set in a refined townhouse, where a
BACKSTAGE CONFIDENTIAL:
CAROLINA HERRERA AND MARIO TESTINO AN EXCLUSIVE BEHIND-THESCENES LOOK AT THE AUTUMN WINTER 2015 CAMPAIGN OF CAROLINA HERRERA.
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neoclassical interior is mixed with mid-century and contemporary art and furniture, with wardrobe pieces selected from the Carolina Herrera New York Fall Collection. The collection explores the different interpretations of water-both nuanced and literal in colour, pattern, and shape-including a water-print silk jacquard cocktail dress, an illusion blue silk gazaar wave gown and a silk cloud jacquard gown with a deep ocean silk faille top. Featuring men’s and women’s lifestyle pieces, the CH Carolina Herrera looks reflect the same style, spirit and design sensibility. The luxury daywear, in modern and refined silhouettes, is accented by the chic accessories of the season, including the Camelot and Gala bags. The photographer, inspired by heritage and family, enlisted a large cast to capture an authentic 'fashionable' life, embracing style, whimsy and fun. Supermodel Lily Aldridge, headlines the cast who are set in an intimate moment, evoking the familial warmth and vibrant spirit of the Latin heritageTestino shares with the designer. Relaxed refinement, with an international sensibility, marks the spirit of the campaign and sets the tone for the season ahead. “I’ve known Mario for decades and I’m thrilled we finally found the right moment to collaborate. He has an inimitable eye and a shared sensibility,” explains Carolina Herrera.
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A GALERIE IN MOVEMENT THE HOUSE OF LOUIS VUITTON CONTINUES ITS EFFORTS IN CULTIVATING ART AS PART OF ITS DNA, THOUGH THE CELEBRATION OF CREATIVE COLLABORATIONS AND PERSONALITIES HAS ALWAYS BEEN A FAMILIAR TERRITORY FOR THE BRAND. SUSTAINING THIS TREND, THE BRAND RECENTLY OPENED THE DOORS TO ITS FOUNDER'S ASNIÈRES -SUR-SEINE HOME, WHERE HE FIRST SETTLED IN 1859.
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Curator Judith Clark took on the brief to showcase the house’s history, bridge the connection between the house and its ateliers, and to bring to life the essence of the brand’s universe. The exhibition, an intermediary between the past, present and future, showcases the leading minds of each era, be they artists, aristocrats or adventurers. At the entrance, a work by Jorge Otero-Pailos highlights the traces of Asnières’ past and superimposes them against those of today- with artists such as illustrator Ruben Toledo and milliner Stephen Jones. The exhibition is curated to
allow free roaming with no specific order, though elements are grouped according to themes- like globalisation, client relations, the Monogram, nature, and the avant-garde. During her research through the house’s archives, Judith discovered rare gems such as the Patéki wooden cube puzzle, a game created by Gaston-Louis Vuitton which served as the inspiration behind her choice of scenography for the exhibition. Within these peculiar poplar boxes, luggage, objects, and garments created by the house’s various artistic directors, lay
side by side with more private documents and insider tell-tale signs, allowing visitors to catch a glimpse of those who designed, carried or owned these different pieces. These little gems include a look into Louis Vuitton’s original journey from his native Jura to Paris, Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s private correspondence, Loïe Fuller’s dance accessories, Redfern’s travel cape, and Frank Gehry’s Fondation Louis Vuitton design. The Asnières' Galerie is open to the public on weekends.
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WITH AN UNRIVALLED ROCKY TERRAIN, GORGEOUS NATURAL LANDSCAPE AND SOUL-WARMING HOSPITALITY OF ITS PEOPLE, OMAN CONTINUES TO BE AN INSPIRATION FOR CREATIVE PURSUITS.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
Though fashion and design initiatives from the country number less than its Gulf neighbours, every breakthrough venture is steeped in authenticity and refined aesthetics. Oman’s firstever fine jewellery brand, Deema, is now spreading its wings to the UAE with a distinctive voice that champions the culture and tradition of the country. Led by a powerhouse mother and daughter duo, Deema is a household name in Oman for bespoke luxury jewellery, chinaware and fine artefacts. Since the brand’s inception in 2008, Shadya Al- Ismaily and Suad Al Riyami’s work draws deeply on art, heritage, nature and the culture of Oman and has become a national symbol for excellent craftsmanship-the pieces are often gifted to visiting heads of states and prolific personalities. “We do not just make ordinary jewellery or chinaware pieces, the designs are also melting pots of heritage, telling us stories as diverse as the ancient stories of our seas and maritime journeys. The Islamic architecture and its designs also have a special imprint on our work,” Shadya says. Shadya has an illustrious finance background, being the first Omani dealer in international markets for crude oil price
hedging, and subsequently in various management roles for the country’s Ministry of Finance and Petroleum Development Oman Limited. When she finally decided to pursue her design passion, she trained at the Birmingham School of Jewellery, soon Deema the brand, came to life. Her daughter Suad, a trained legal professional, came on board to form the creative vision. Four collections encapsulate the brand: Islamic heritage, heritage, architecture, and nature, and each narrate its individual inspirations and their own exceptional story. This season, the collections have become available for the first time in Dubai, and will soon reach international markets through its online portal. “Right from inception, we set a very ambitious marketing plan for Deema, both locally and overseas, and selecting Dubai for launching our new collection was part of the plan. It is one of the most important destinations for shopping, with the highest number of yearly visitors in the region, and it is a city that embraces many nationalities and cultures, which resonates with our essence of combining the Arabian Gulf ’s influences with the trends of modern fashion,” says Shadya.
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01 THE PEACE COLLECTION Luminescent lemon quartz, blue topaz and blue aquamarine stones are blended with 18k yellow gold and diamonds, to create the Islamic eight-pointed star pattern, promoting the heritage and richness of Islamic patterns and architectural designs-the inspiration behind the collection.
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THE HARMONY COLLECTION Richly-hued blue and green gemstones conjuring up thoughts of deep oceans, compliment perfectly with lavish 18k white gold and diamonds, to create astonishing beauty in this luxurious collection. The materials symbolically reflect the nautical heritage of the Arabian Gulf region- the blues representing the seas that connect the land with the rest of the world harmoniously
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03 THE PALM COLLECTION Amethyst gemstones and diamonds are intricately set against earthy tones of dark and light green sapphire and 18k yellow gold- evoking thoughts of the true beauty of mother nature. The ‘Palm’ is inspired by the striking date trees- the fruit of the Middle East.
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Q&A What is the working relationship like between mother and daughter? At the office, we work as partners with well-defined roles and a structured system. Suad comes from a legal background with strong interpersonal skills. Therefore, she was the best to take care of the legal and contractual affairs of the company; also, she covers the PR and marketing side of the business. Whereas finance and designing are the areas where my strengths are, hence, fall under my umbrella. However, we do work as a team, exchange ideas and extend help to each other. How do you think your brand helps in strengthening and presenting the Omani culture to the world? Oman is enriched with a remarkable heritage and legacy that need to be well presented and exquisitely shared with the world. However, what the market offers does not, in any way, do justice to this rich heritage. As Deema is known for its exclusive designs, highest quality, and excellent craftsmanship reflecting
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the essence of luxury, we felt it was our patriotic responsibility to give this heritage the attention it deserves. As a result, the brand’s products became desired gifts, proudly given to high profile official visitors to the Sultanate of Oman for example, heads of countries and other important personalities. We trust attaching luxury to the heritage may attract attention and encourage people to learn more about the country or even visit the Sultanate.
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an you tell us about the craftsmanship and artisanal work behind the collections? Authenticity, innovation and achieving the highest quality has been Deema’s motto since inception. Thus, having the right skills and paying attention to details have been crucial during each and every stage while transforming an idea to a final product. The production process at Deema starts with a concept, it is then transformed into a hand-drawn, detailed design of the intended product. All required information such as dimensions, sizes, type of stones including the quality, colours, cuts, and sizes, and precious metals are given if the work was for a jewel, other materials like type of mixture such as porcelain vs. bone are to be used for chinaware are also provided. This is followed by a three-dimensional rendering. From here, skillful craftsmen take care of the execution of the design according to the production line that the design belongs to. The jewelleries are carefully handmade, and machinery mostly takes care of the chinaware production, followed by handwork for adding fine details and finishes. The products are taken through the complete production cycle with special care, and manual intervention is sought. How are the collections conceptualised? Deema has been drawing inspiration from all around. Oman is rich in its heritage, beautiful patterns and other legacies that cannot be ignored. Hence, it was logical that the brand be affected by this rich legacy. The Islamic architecture and its designs also have a special imprint on Deema’s work. This line was included to promote the beauty of Islamic art and creativity. The nature in Oman is also considered as a source of inspiration in the designing process. For example, the 'Palm' collection was inspired by the tree, and was the first collection under the 'Nature' line. Every element of the tree was carefully employed in a piece of jewellery. The 'Palm' was launched at the International Jewellery London in 2011. Finally, a line dedicated to the architecture and landmarks in Oman was introduced in 2014. There are more lines yet to be added into our collections- 2016 will witness a line covering our journeys around the world.
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THE COOL COLLECTIVE TRAVELLING JUST GOT SO MUCH COOLER WITH THE LATEST COLLABORATIVE COLLECTION BETWEEN NEW YORK’S COOL KIDS, PUBLIC SCHOOL AND LUGGAGE EXPERTS, TUMI. BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
Designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne are the hippest duo to have come out of the New York fashion scene in recent years. Their label, Public School, champions the urban voice that is synonymous with the spirit of the city, offering a men's and womenswear collection that draws from fashion, music and art. The success of the label goes beyond just garments but to the embodiment of their individual styles and stories, including the common link that they both attended public school while growing up in the city. The collaboration came after working with Tumi, who sponsored the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund's 'Americans in Paris' project, which the label was part of. “We used our first TUMI travel collection for the trip. We fell in love with the pieces and it got our creative juices spinning. It was then in Paris that we started talking about possibilities with TUMI and our friend George Esquivel,Tumi’s creative director,” Dao-Yi says. The six-piece collection includes a carry-on and a check-in wheeled bag, travel satchel, backpack, day tote and dopp kit. The designers based it on an architectural idea of mimicking the weave of a garment and applying it to manmade material.
Working with Tumi’s design team, the duo set out to produce pieces that are light and fulfils both form and function. The wheeled pieces are crafted from TUMI’s patented Tegris® material in Black Graphite with a laser-cut netting overlay, creating a weave pattern effect on the exterior of the cases. This pattern is infused to the hardware and luggage tags of the day bags and accessories, as well as the 2-D netting texture effect on the bottom of the travel satchel. Nylon and leather are incorporated into the day bags and dopp kit, while the tote, described by the designers as the ‘quintessential bag’, was designed in leather and suede to create a season-less collection. Each piece features the signature Public School design aesthetic of a monochromatic colour scheme, a PUBLIC SCHOOL x TUMI embossed story patch on the interior lining, and a rubber tassel inspired by the key chains and ‘strings’ that hung from the designers’ backpacks in high school. “The key chain is reminiscent of when we grew up in NY and we used to have strings on our book bags. We used to collect them and take other people's strings. To have a lot more strings, it was a badge of honour. This is our interpretation of strings as an adult. It’s more of a memory,” says Maxwell.
“We used our first TUMI travel collection for the trip. We fell in love with the pieces and it got our creative juices spinning.”
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Dao-Yi and Maxwell give a glimpse into the cutting-edge label that is redefining urbanwear. What is a typical day in the life of PUBLIC SCHOOL? There is no typical day, every day is different. We like to joke around and play pranks on our team to keep them on their toes. There’s always music (Dao-Yi dances), always conversations going on, we like an open atmosphere, no closed door policy. That’s part of our creative process. We like to keep it fun, enjoyable and as light-hearted as possible. To you, what does it mean to be a Global Citizen (Tumi’s campaign ambassadors)? Maxwell: It means taking advantage of their opportunity to travel, see the world, learn about as many different things as possible. Bring them back and share with family and friends . Dao Yi: Open minded all the time Who is the Public School man? Who is the Public School woman? They’re one and the same. They are both connectors, meaning, they sit at the middle of a whole bunch of different worlds and can have conversations about fashion, music, art and travel. They’re an aspirational boy and
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girl always looking to learn new things and take on new experiences. As a team, how do you decide on collaborations? It comes from an easy place, working with friends in their respective fields, is it something we would want to use, buy. It becomes a part of us. Our collaborations really mean a lot because it’s another leg of our business. Who would you like to see travelling with the PUBLIC SCHOOL x TUMI collection? All seasoned and all new travellers and everyone in between. Someone who is on the go in different cities, and really appreciates the pieces. How do you seek inspiration for your RTW collections? All feeling. It starts from a conversation and we go from there. How did you meet? Dao-Yi: Max and I had worked together for five years at another company and we’re friends outside of work and had always done side projects together. When we had this opportunity —I had a store in Miami, we walked trade shows together and thought, there’s nothing here that we want to wear. Maxwell: We weren’t that excited with what was out there; we couldn’t find clothing that we wanted to wear ourselves. So we decided to create what we loved and turned into PUBLIC SCHOOL. What’s your favourite pastime? Maxwell: Playing basketball – but now we’re getting older – and watching basketball. Dao-Yi: Playing with my kids.
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ETHEREAL LIGHT SAFIYAA’S AUTUMN WINTER 2015 COLLECTION FINDS ITS HOME AT THE 16TH CENTURY ELIZABETHAN BURGHLEY HOUSE. THE JEWEL TONE-INSPIRED COLLECTION IS A PERFECT FIT WITH THE ART AND ANTIQUE FURNITURE PIECES FOUND THROUGHOUT BURGHLEY HOUSE – WHERE EACH AND EVERY PIECE HAS ITS PLACE AND TELLS ITS OWN STORY.
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The silhouettes are sleek and elegant, edgy and chic all combined featuring drop shoulders, cut out backs and asymmetric necklines and skirt lengths.
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A fresh take on lace is introduced, with sequin, polka dot and stone laces- which reflect the different aesthetics that nature offers us.
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There is an angelic element to the collection, with long flowing capes and dresses with feather appliques, as well as bold galactic jacquards inspired by the universe itself.
EFFORTLESSLY COOL Zac Efron was seen in a Kenzo bomber jacket at the premiere of ‘We Are Your Friends’ in Chicago on August 19th.
AL ANEEQ WHERE THE BIG BOYS COME OUT TO PLAY
PLEINWARRIORS Philipp Plein leans towards the concept of the ‘urban match’, with details borrowed from the worlds of sports and aviation. The result is a mix of inspirations that translate into an aggressive, yet refined collection. Black and white, army green, bordeaux, and grey take the main stage, while the wardrobes of underground athletes from boxing gyms to improvised street arenas, transform into symbols of strength and luxury. Oversized t-shirts are realised entirely in crocodile or python, and running pants are reconstructed in kid glove-like leather. The bomber jacket, a pertinent symbol of aviation, is revised into a high-volume version - classic lining goes external with double-faced fur, featuring a play of contrasting volumes and colours. The collection represents a turning point for the brand, the #pleinwarriors style.
CH CLASSIC Relaxed and comfortable are the key words that form the foundation of Carolina Herrera’s Men’s Collection for Autumn/Winter 2015. Natural leathers, wools, and cottons, are complemented with nylon and neoprene detailing, while navy blue, grey, and camel, are juxtaposed against pops of hunter green and bright blue. Nautical inspiration appears in striped tops and navy coats, featuring gold buttons engraved with anchor motifs. Unlined suiting and jackets create a soft feel, while down jackets and vests offer stylish alternatives for cold winter days. The looks are combined with practical handbags, leather gloves, stylish scarves and sport-style shoes. The versatility of the collection speaks to the CH man who dresses for both work and play.
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TRUE BLUE Jeanne Lanvin called it a blue “to stiffen your neck”, describing the emotion she felt when discovering the perfect shade of blue to feature in her collections. For Winter 2015, it is everywhere: on a tie or a pocket, in embroidery, on a collar, or as a complete look. It adorns backpacks with simple straps, is placed on baggy roll-neck sweaters, accentuates the waist with a fine blue belt, or electrifies low-waist baggy trousers. The Cross-Training Sneakers, which have starred in the Lanvin look for several seasons, boldly opt for a petrol blue tie-dye print, which is also found on a wide range of little accessories.
SUPER SONIC New from Kenzo is the Sonic sneaker for men – a high-octane, engineered shoe that is sure to be a hit. Creative directors, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, created the sneaker to join the brand’s ever-expanding men’s footwear category. Fresh, detailed, and full of individual style, the Sonic is a natural fit for the urban man who doesn’t play games with his choice of sneaker. Keeping in line with Autumn/Winter 2015, the shoe takes cues from the utilitarian inspiration of the season and comes in safety orange, uniform khaki/grey, camouflage white, and jet black. Rubber, leather, and mesh optimise the Sonic for premium aeration and flexibility.
GLOBETROTTER
ESSENTIAL ELEGANCE
Louis Vuitton celebrates the similarities in global style, rather than its differences. The collection works as an extended clothing remix, with the codes of LV at its heart. Traditional, intricate, striped Thai embroidery echoes contemporary sportswear, as well as the personalised stripes of the LV Monogram; the silhouettes of South-East Asian national dress reflect the large volumes of the American baseball top or track pant in embroidered silk; timeless indigo features as a global, unifying colour from hand-dyed Japanese Kobe leathers in traditional American flight jacket shapes. “Rather than look at one destination, I looked at travelling the world,” says Kim Jones, the Men’s Artistic Director of Louis Vuitton. “Now the traveller picks things up wherever he goes and makes them his own.”
Kean Etro has created a world of illusion this season. Selected pieces are hand-painted, with tone-on-tone layers over corduroy or velvet suits. Silk printed coats, needle-stitched with two types of wool, create a fuzzy 3-D plaid surface. Cotton plaid-printed shirts are as luminous as silk, while heat-stamped velvet suits are scattered in gold dust. The clothes possess the formality of uniforms, yet feature the comfort of sportswear, with draw-string pants that are loose around the hips and have elastic ankles. Shearling-lined coats and military jackets have luxurious silk linings and printed pony skin under the collars, while tuxedos are wrapped in scarves, and velvet gold-dusted puffer jackets offer a new after-dark uniform.
GLAM / BEAUTY
BOOTY OCTOBER 2015
OUR CURATED BOX FOR ALL YOUR BEAUTY SOLUTIONS.
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AJ A RABI
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M ED IT ER R A N
EA N M ED ITAT IO N
Bottega Veneta ’s ne conjures an esca w fragrance, Knot, pe to the Italian where lush hills Riviera hide a sanctuar y that overlooks the sp ar floral fragrance kling sea. The bright, is meticulously layered, and offers an un ex experience, with pected, delightful a unique identit y leaves a lasting memory. The Kn that ot’s bottle combine s so and powerful lin ft, rounded curves es Venetian glassw , and is inspired by or Italian carafe. An k and the traditional oro matte cap is most distinctive its design element. fragrance pays As the homage to the beloved Knot clutch, Tom as Maier designe cap to echo the d the bag’s iconic knot-shaped cl osure. The resu lt is vessel with the luxurious feel of a the finest of jewelle ry.
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COMPLEXION PERFECTION The White Brightening System from Elemis provides a solution for dark spots, excess pigmentation and age spots caused by a combination of UV exposure, hormonal changes and poor lifestyle choices, that can cause skin to look dull, uneven and aged. The system features two facials and a range of products for care at home. The White Brightening Even Tone BIOTEC treatment is an ultrasonic and light therapy technology, that helps safely reduce pigmentation, discolouration, uneven skin tone, age spots and blemishes, helping the skin look brighter and glowing. The White Brightening Facial visibly illuminates the complexion leaving it more even and translucently clear. The complementing product range features the White Brightening Even Tone Cleanser, White Brightening Even Tone Lotion and the Advanced Brightening Even Tone Serum.
TRICK OR TREAT Nail it this Halloween with OPI’s top shades of the season. Whether you’re after a fun orange to deck your fingertips, a spooky revisited French manicure or scary nail art, you are covered. OPI has picked its eeriest shades to help you put that essential finishing touch to your outfit. Lady In Black is a classic black crème that will intensify your dark side, Alpine Snow is a fresh, crisp, white with a ghostly finish and In My Back Pocket, is a bright pumpkin-orange you won’t want to hide away. The OPI Halloween collection is available at Wojooh, Sephora, and Lifestyle.
MIX MATCH CLICK With new Revlon ColorStay ShadowLinks, you can create your own customised palette of possibilities. Each individual eye shadow easily snaps together with another to create a unique combination. Choose from 20 shades in neutrals, pinks/plums, blues/greys, greens/golds and browns/blacks. The range comes in a variety of finishes
from soft matte, to satin, or high sparkle. Revlon recommends creating your custom palette by picking your favourite colour, adding a light shade to highlight, then finishing with a deeper shade to add definition. Create a neutral and pink palette for day, then click-in a fun green or gold for night – whatever you choose, it’s yours – in a click.
BUZZ GLAM / BEAUTY
OCTOBER 2015
NAIL TREND REPORT AUTUMN 2015 Celebrity manicurist and Sally Hansen Global Colour Ambassador, Madeline Poole, says to keep nails on point this season, by making them glint and shine like precious gemstones in metallics. “Metallics came in every shade on the runways: deep blue, gold, copper, purple, gunmetal, magenta, turquoise…and not just on nails! There were fabrics, iridescent leathers and crushed velvets that amplified the whole effect.” The key is opulence, seen in outrageous, bedazzled artificial nails at The Blondes, and royal Renaissance nails at Badgley Mischka. And texture is
not only about the clothes. “In fashion and in nails it is all about layering!” says Poole. Accent nails are still in, but shift the focus: try accented thumbs or pinkies, or your ring and middle finger. Meanwhile OPI favours translucent colours to layer and blend for endless nail art looks. ColorPaints Blendable Nail Lacquer, is a line of ultra-luminous nail lacquers that let you layer and mix colours to create one-of-a-kind looks. The unique silver base illuminates each layer with striking, vivid colour. Stripe, swoosh, or swirl on layers to create your own signature style.
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STARS OF THE SEASON Beauty muses we’re watching this autumn include Cate Blanchett, as she remains the face of the Giorgio Armani fragrance Si, with a new campaign. Reality TV sister and catwalk queen, Kendall Jenner, whose meteoric rise continues with Estee Lauder. Singer Miley Cyrus, who kicked off her collaboration with MAC in January and recently revealed the first shots for her
second launch with the group on her Instagram account. Author and model Caroline de Maigret, who collaborates with Lancôme on a second make-up collection consisting of her autumn essentials. And the South African model Candice Swanepoel, who was revealed as the new ambassador for French skincare brand, Biotherm this past summer.
SMILE WITH SEPHORA Lancôme Middle East recently collaborated with six stunning women in the UAE. Alreem Saif, Kat Lebrasse, Mthayel Al Ali, Nadya Hasan, Zahra Lyla, and Zeina Abdalla confirmed the La Vie Est Belle Intense declaration of happiness, by showcasing their captivating smiles on screens at Sephora in Dubai Mall and the Mall of the Emirates. At the essence of the fragrance is its universal positive message that every woman can believe in, a historic bottle that expresses the emblematic, resolute form of a smile, as a true symbol of joy. Patrons were invited to share their smiles at a custom photo booth and enjoy La Vie Est Belle Intense. Follow #thefragranceofhappiness for more inspiration.
IT’S ALL IN THE EYES If there is one product you’ll be stocking up on this season, it is eyeliner. All eyes were on the peepers during the Autumn/Winter 2015 shows. Hedi Slimane sent models down the runway sporting exaggeratedly blocked-out liner that almost reached the eyebrows. The look was graphic, angular, high-voltage grunge, bold, and striking. Elsewhere on the catwalks Fendi put its own modern, geometric twist on the cat eye, by making it straight and masculine, while Oscar de la Renta kept things fluid and elegant, and Chanel opted for a daring but pretty aesthetic. In summary, the perfect cat eye for autumn is geometric, bold, and a little messy.
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A R T I S T BY JUDITH JONES
EVERY WOMAN SHOULD HAVE ERIK SOTO ON SPEED DIAL. AS THE GLOBAL MAKEUP ARTIST FOR BEAUTY BRAND KAT VON D, ERIK BROUGHT HIS MAKE-UP MAGIC FROM LOS ANGELES TO DOHA, AND IN JUST TEN MINUTES, TRANSFORMED ME FROM BAREFACED TO FABULOUS.
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Who is Kat Von D? Born in Mexico, Katherine Von Drachenberg, internationally renowned tattoo artist, is the creator of the eponymous makeup brand which has leapt onto the beauty bandwagon at full speed, thanks to a thriving collaboration with the beauty retailer, Sephora. A talented artist, classically trained pianist and TV personality, Kat Von D is also a self-confessed 'beauty junkie'. Her stint on the reality TV show LA Ink, which highlighted her talent for tattoo artistry, caught the attention of Sephora for her popularity and powerhouse social media following. In 2008, with a smallscale launch of just four red lipsticks, the successful partnership began. The Make-Up Brand Exclusive to Sephora, the Kat Von D range was introduced to the Middle East last month with the product line having expanded from the original four red lipsticks, to a kaleidoscope of colourful make-up treats, and is one of the fastest growing beauty brands in the US. Erik Soto, who collaborates with Kat on the product line, brought his talent to the Gulf, to showcase the range and offer insider tips and tricks along the way. “We’ve just exploded into the world of beauty,” says Erik. “The ultimate coverage factor makes our products stand out. The ingredients offer a high pigment quality which is long-lasting, waterproof and resilient in extreme temperatures,” he says, ensuring the desert heat is no contest for KVD. Once it’s on the face, it doesn’t budge. “We’re talking 24-hour coverage if you need it. Women don’t have time to be re-touching make-up all day long”, says Erik, who has been a make-up artist for 17 years. Using natural ingredients which are sourced worldwide and of the highest quality, the Kat Von D range contains no nasty chemicals, is kind to the skin and is not tested on animals, important factors to the Kat Von D ethic.
“Kat Von D has something for everyone, from ages 17 to 77: it is not a trend-based product,” confirms Erik. “It is important that we pay attention to detail, not just with the products, but also the packaging. The intricate designs are taken from hand drawings produced by Kat- who likes to get invloved in all aspects of the business and also allows her to put her personal touch to it.” Insider Beauty Tips Buying new cosmetics can be a baffling experience with heaps of products on offer, yet Kat Von D has the essential collection down to a fine art. A cleansed, bare face is the ideal canvas to play with the art of make-up. Butterfly inspired eyeshadow palettes, Chrysalis and Monarch with rainbow shades from delicate to dramatic, you can tone it down or rev it up. A ‘Shade & Light’ compact of neutral colours suits all skin tones, a must for practicing the art of face contouring using the nifty, doubleended make-up brush, while the versatile bestseller, Everlasting Liquid Lipstick in striking shades, packs a powerful pout. Kat’s favourite product is the Tattoo Liner for the perfect cat’s eye and practice makes purrfect. According to Erik, the biggest make-up flaw is being afraid to try new colours and not experimenting enough. The Kat Von D mantra is “Unleash your inner artist.” He says, “Middle Eastern ladies are adventurous with their make-up; they’re eager to try new products and colours, which is a fabulous way of finding what suits you.” When planning a makeover Erik explains, “Eye colour is the first element I like to focus on. Following that I map out what I’d like to do with the rest of the face. Most women have concerns when it comes to make-up. It’s important to feel comfortable and to know that when you look in the mirror mid-afternoon, your make-up looks as fresh as it did that morning.” With a range of Kat Von D products to hand, it’s time to play. For step-by-step guidance and inspiration and a range of tutorials, visit www.katvondbeauty.com
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THE TEN-MINUTE GLAM TRANSFORMATION 1 Prep the face with a touch of Lock-it ● Featherweight Primer. 2 Blend a dot of Lock-It Foundation with ● a dot of primer on the back of the hand. Apply to the face evenly for a radiant, medium coverage which evens out skin tone. 3 A gentle dabbing motion of Lock-It ● concealer around the eye lid and below the eye in a lighter shade than the foundation hides dark circles and uplifts the eye area.
4 A neutral base colour is swept along the ● lid and up under the brow line, followed by a dash of orange from the Chrysalis palette along the outer corners of the eyes. 5 Define brows with tiny strokes using the ● buildable Tattoo Brow liquid liner. 6 Draw a fine line with Black Tattoo Liner ● along upper lash line just beyond outer corners of the eyes, adding depth to the eye area, before a sweep of mascara for lash definition.
7 On the back of the hand a dot of ● Featherweight Primer blended with a splash of Liquid Lipstick creates the ideal blusher. Apply to the apples of the cheeks for an instant glow. 8 The same Everlasting Liquid lipstick ● in Lovesick is painted onto lips. Erik’s advice is to avoid the usual urge to “smoosh” lips together, instead allow the colour to settle.
THE VERDICT : A short walk in 45 degrees for the Doha melt test and the feline flick is still in place, not a panda’s eye in sight. Fabulous!
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EARLY DETECTION OF BREAST CANCER SAVES LIVES PHCC’S ‘SCREEN FOR LIFE’ CAMPAIGN HIGHLIGHTS BREAST CANCER SCREENING’S IMPACT ON THE WHOLE FAMILY BY 'SCREEN FOR LIFE'– A PHCC CANCER SCREENING CAMPAIGN
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s reported by the World Health Organization (WHO), breast cancer is the most common type of cancer among women – both in developed and developing countries. WHO has also identified a clear connection between early detection and morbidity rates and has therefore named breast cancer screening as a major goal in public health initiatives. Nations across many continents have instituted national breast cancer screening programmes in accordance with that goal. Since early detection greatly increases the chance of survival, the aim of screening programmes is to increase awareness of both the disease and the benefits of early detection. Breast cancer screening: a PHCC priority To promote education, awareness and early detection of breast cancer in Qatar, the Primary Health Care Corporation (PHCC) has announced the launch of a life-saving, population-based breast cancer screening campaign called ‘Screen For Life.’ The campaign is an integral component of the Breast and Bowel Cancer Screening Programme. In accordance with Qatar’s National Health Strategy 2011-2016, the screening programme embodies the country’s new wellness model of healthcare and
represents a shift towards preventive and community-based care. To ensure an effective and efficient implementation of the programme, the PHCC has tapped into the expertise of an international consortium of companies. These include Fujifilm from Japan, which supplies medical equipment and information solutions, RadNet from the U.S.A., which performs clinical and operational services, and Specialized Medical Solutions (SMS), which provides on-the-ground administrative support in Doha. For breast cancer screening, the campaign will initially focus on Qatari women 45 years and over in the first year. It will then include non-Qatari women from the second year of the programme. The Supreme Council of Health recommends that women 45 years and older get breast cancer screening every three years. Screening before symptoms The early detection of breast cancer vastly increases survival rates. When caught at an early stage, the survival rate of breast cancer is 98%, according to the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. This is particularly true for women who do not manifest any symptoms. Treatments are more likely to succeed when the disease is caught early.
Symptoms and risk factors A key part of the Screen For Life campaign is to demystify cancer and to encourage an understanding of the signs, symptoms and risk factors, so that women can make informed choices. Some symptoms of breast cancer are: 1 A persistent lump in the breast that may ● feel different from other breast tissue and is somewhat tender; 2 One or more lumps in the armpit; ● 3 Changes in the shape or size of the ● breast, particularly if only one breast changes; 4 Breast skin changes, such as dimpling, ● puckering, redness, increased warmth, visible veins, or itching; 5 Nipple changes such as sudden ● inversion, discharge or scaling. Additionally, there are several risk factors that may affect one’s chances of having the disease. Screening is strongly recommended if any of the top three risk factors are present. These include: 1 A close blood relative (mother, sister, ● daughter) who has had breast cancer; 2 If you have had breast cancer in the ● past; 3 If you have inherited any abnormal ● genetic markers that indicate risk, particularly two abnormal genes: BRCA1 (breast cancer gene one) and
BEAUTY / 95 BRCA2 (breast cancer gene two) 4 Dense breasts – which means one has a ● lot of fibrous glandular tissue and not much fatty tissue. Breast density can be determined through screening; 5 If you had your first child after the age ● of 30; 6 Started menstruating early (before age ● 12) and / or started menopause later (after the age of 55); 7 If you are overweight, drink alcohol and ● live a sedentary lifestyle. Anyone with one or more of these symptoms, or any of the top three risk factors, should contact the PHCC cancer screening centre at info@screenforlife.qa
prepares for the examination by putting on a gown; 3 In the exam room, the female ● technologist guides the patient to a standing position at the mammography machine and places the breast over the receptor; 4 The machine applies moderate ● compression to the breast for a few seconds to obtain the clearest image; 5 Two X-ray views are usually taken of ● each breast with a digital mammogram; 6 The female technologist views the ● images on the computer screen in the
the disease gained momentum in 1985 when Breast Cancer Awareness Month (BCAM) was launched. Then, in 1993, in establishing the Breast Cancer Research Foundation (BCRF), Evelyn Lauder, Senior Corporate Vice President of The Estee Lauder Companies, along with Alexandra Penney, former editor of SELF magazine, made the pink ribbon an international symbol of breast cancer awareness. Since then, these initiatives have grown into a worldwide health campaign organised by major breast cancer charities
room, only to assess the image quality; 7 One can leave immediately and resume ● normal activities.
every October. Breast Cancer Awareness Month focuses activities for four weeks on increasing and sustaining awareness about the disease. It also provides information and support to those affected by breast cancer. In some parts of the world, various charities raise funds for further research into its cause, prevention, diagnosis, treatment and cure.
Lowering the risk Risk factors due to family history cannot be undone. However, women can make active choices about their health and take preventive measures to help reduce the risk of breast cancer in many ways. Suggestions for healthy actions include: 1 Get at least 150 minutes per week of ● aerobic activity; 2 Breastfeed for as long as possible; ● 3 Limit the dose and duration of hormone ● therapy; 4 Avoid alcohol; ● 5 Don’t smoke; ● 6 Control your weight. ● Where and how to get screened To ensure easy access to breast cancer screening, the PHCC will open screening centres specifically for breast cancer in Al Wakra and Leabaib at the beginning of 2016. A mobile van will also be deployed to bring screening to various locations across Qatar. To arrange a screening appointment, contact the PHCC screening centre at info@screenforlife.qa What to expect Screening is a very simple, non-invasive process. All of the PHCC staff are highly trained and experienced professionals, and use advanced technology to ensure an accurate reading. To encourage women to make a screening appointment, the PHCC clearly explains each step of the process: 1 A female technologist will review one’s ● medical history and any symptoms that one has been experiencing related to the breast; 2 In a private dressing room, a woman ●
Breast Cancer Screening Impacts More Than Just You The decision to take action on regular breast screening may not only save your life, it also has a profound impact on your family. Knowing that you are taking measures to prioritise your health and well-being, your family gains peace of mind—and you lead by example. Since treatment is more likely to succeed on cancer caught at an early stage, you contribute the best possible outcome to your family. Breast Cancer Awareness Month and the Pink Ribbon The move to draw further attention to
Qatar in action Qatar is committed to reducing the incidence and morbidity of breast cancer in the country. Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser stated, "Qatar will be known not just for its work in improving health globally, but for providing the very best healthcare to its own citizens.” With the Screen For Life programme to promote breast cancer screening, the PHCC is following through on that commitment.
TALK GLAM / SHOP
FLAWLESS COMPLEXION Make-up can now be undetectable with the new ULTRA HD foundation from Makeup For Ever. Its light diffusing formula makes your skin look natural and flawless and feels moisturised. Even when exposed to bright lights and camera flashes, the foundation remains undetectable, and looks just like your own natural skin. The exclusive 4K complex guarantees
complete invisible, natural and comfortable make-up. The fluid texture blends in seamlessly and conceals imperfections to unify the skin’s texture. The ULTRA HD Liquid Foundation is available in forty expert shades to perfect the complexion of every skin tone. It has become an indispensable tool for women to get a perfect complexion while keeping a natural look.
OCTOBER 2015
97 SUMMER GLOW Inspired by the soaring mountains in Colorado, Bobbi Brown introduces the Telluride Collection. Each product in the collection is designed to deliver a gorgeous glow that the late afternoon sun in Telluride casts on the skin. Featuring luminous shades of tawny nude rose gold, and pink bronze, it is easy to achieve that sought-after natural, sun-kissed glow. This look is perfect for summer and transitions beautifully into autumn. The collection includes an eye palette, pot rouge for lips and cheeks, shimmer brick and a lip trio.
MIRACLE MAKEOVER Adding to the award-winning Sally Hansen Miracle Gel collection, the new and improved volumising Miracle Gel Top Coat is the most buzzed about, at-home nail system and the closest thing to a salon gel manicure. When paired with Miracle Gel shades, Miracle Gel Top Coat volumises as it protects. The top coat formula delivers double the volume to your manicure, creating dramatically fuller-looking nails with a high-gloss, mirror shine finish. The result gives the finished look of a gel
TRAVEL IN STYLE Montblanc reimagines the traditional backpack, with four new designs in three different materials. Created for the modern trailblazer who always seeks to explore new horizons, each backpack combines elegant aesthetics with functional designs. Striving to recognise the importance of technology in the modern-day, each backpack features a padded pocket to safely carry a laptop. Additional zipped pockets provide special places for its owner to carefully store items, including smart phones and wallets. Italian full-grain cowhide and cotton lining bring refined elegance to the MeisterstĂźck Soft Grain backpack. The collection delivers comfort, reliability, and functionality with sleek contemporary sophistication that is synonymous with Montblanc.
manicure at home, without a trip to the salon. Miracle Gel’s simple application takes just two steps. First, apply two thin coats of Miracle Gel colour to clean, bare nails. Then, apply one coat of the new Miracle Gel Top Coat. Natural light does the rest, it creates a manicured look that resembles a UV / LED cured gel polish and gives up to 14 days of colour and shine. It can be removed easily with regular nail polish remover. Limited edition duo packs are available beginning October 2015.
98 \ SHOP TALK DEEPLY DECADENT Marc Jacobs’s new perfume Decadence is exuberant and anti-conformist, combining luxury and a spirit of irreverence. It is a perfect representation of the fashion house. Created by master perfumer Annie Buzantian in collaboration with Ann Gottlieb and Marc Jacobs, the fragrance opens with gourmet notes of Italian plum, iris, and saffron associated with the Bulgarian rose
GO RETRO! Centrepoint is making retro look chic in its latest collection for Autumn/Winter. It has embraced the seasonal colours and styles that will make one look effortlessly comfortable and on-trend this season. The new collection focuses on 70’s inspired pieces for the family. The Splash collection includes trendy pieces in shades of autumnal colours such as brown, blue and red. The collection is retro-chic and captures key styles that consumers can transition from day to night. In keeping with the season, there is a variety of jackets, dresses and trousers for the entire family.
and jasmine sambac. The dry down is elevated by notes of liquid amber and papyrus wood. The design of the new fragrance is inspired by Marc Jacobs’ collections, in particular its iconic fashion handbags. The bottle is shaped like a bag with a python skin bottle top, a gold chain and tassel making the general aesthetic very couture. Adriana Lima is the new face of Decadence.
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DUNE’S AUTUMN/WINTER 2015
A TRANSFORMATIONAL JOURNEY VLCC a leading wellness brand in the Middle East and South Asia stands different. For more than 25 years, it has built a strong foundation based on innovation, research and best practices, and as a result, has developed an in-depth understanding of beauty and weight management. VLCC’s approach towards any treatment – be it weight loss, skin care or hair care, is holistic and well-planned. As a pioneer in the industry, VLCC’s professionals look at the bigger picture and analyse how different elements interact with each other before suggesting a particular programme. Therefore, VLCC offers cosmetologically, dermatological, nutritional and medical consultations free with every programme in order to understand the underlying causes and correct them with lasting results. VLCC invests deeply into R&D using observations from millions of customer sessions for data mining, developing patented systems, publishing research white papers, and even pioneering its own ERP concept to manage the data. From one country to another, over expanding formats and touching lives of millions as it looks forward to another successful years ahead, the VLCC movement surges forward, leaving in its wake an awakening, a strengthening, an empowerment and a momentum that combine to define a riveting transformational story. VLCC Beauty Management When you walk in for a skin/hair concern, VLCC’s beauty head and nutritionist also confer with you besides the appointed professional. VLCC offers
personalized, solution oriented skin and hair therapies with necessary interventions and treatments being administered from time to time by experts. Each service is analysed by a specialist– Beauty Consultant/ Doctor/ Dermatologist to determine whether a single sitting would suffice or an entire course would be required. Skin care The VLCC Skin Care and Skin Treatments range of services is all about improving the wellness of your skin. Treatments range from the traditional and wholesome: Herbal, Ayurvedic, Aromatherapy, Talassotherapy; to the very latest bio-technological wonders: Cosmeceutical and Nature Tec therapies that harmoniously combine technology with the goodness of nature for astounding results. Anti-Ageing, Pigmentation and Tan Removal Treatments, Acne Treatments While ageing, natural environment conditionsas well as the various problems that could possibly affect, it is a constant natural process, VLCC’s team of experts can help this processes slow down and make it ever so graceful, without having undergo the knife. VLCC provides a vast array of anti-ageing treatments that are tailor-made to suit every individual skin type and requirement such as,(VLCC Face Firming Treatment, VLCC Cryogenic Treatment, and Stem Cellogist), Anti-pigmentation and tan removal treatments and acne treatmentsWhile VLCC’s experts work carefully on your skin allowing it to indulge, breathe and get nourished.
Contemporary and Reinvention was the theme for this season’s Autumn/Winter 2015 collection from Dune. For the women’s collection, influences were taken from the present-day modern icon, while textures and colours were revitalised, from fresh and neutral to rich and luxurious. Shape and texture is still heavily influenced by the Seventies era. Deep midnight tones make for a dramatic day-to-evening collection. The men’s collection drew focus on the contemporary. An eclectic mix of styles combined to create a classic collection with modern details such as texture combinations, hi-shine and colour contrasts. Boot styles create an outdoor, rugged feel for this season, with herringbone fabric panels combined with worn-look leathers and chunky cleated soles which add texture and weight to casual boots.
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NATURAL COMFORT Inspired by the modern woman, Naturalizer introduces its new Back to Work collection. This collection incorporates contemporary trends, fine detailing and comfort. All designs are based on the principles of quality, innovation through technology and timeless styles. Covering everything from everyday looks to classic tailoring, Naturalizer has designed an N5 Comfort system in every shoe. These five features provide all day comfort, delivering flexibility, lightness, balance, cushioning and breathability. Naturalizer has also introduced an extension to its N5 comfort system, the N5 Contour. These styles will include an innovative contour insole and footbed, superior dual-density cushioning and a lux suede sock with Agion. N5 Contour features styles that redistribute weight and pressure, including superior arch and heel support with a consistent fit.
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CLOWN CONTOURING BY ESMERELDA VAN DER WESTHUIZEN
OVER THE YEARS, MAKE-UP TECHNIQUES HAVE EVOLVED; FROM CONTOURING TO STROBING, THERE ARE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FACESCULPTING STYLES AVAILABLE AND AS WE KNOW, SOME TRENDS HAVE GAINED MORE POPULARITY THAN OTHERS. The latest craze to arrive is 'clown contouring'. Even if you were to suffer from coulrophobia (fear of clowns), do hear us out - the end result is anything but carnivalesque or scary. We know that contouring is key to achieving that flawless look. Rather than sticking to a tedious make-up routine, why not have a little more fun with it? Clown contouring has been around since the 1960s. The technique is similar to regular highlighting and contouring, with the exception of including colour, adding definition and brightness to the face. The trick is to use shades of pink and fuchsia to achieve extreme colour correction. Initially this exaggerated method of highlighting, contouring, and colour correcting may look like 'circus' face paint, hence the name. However, once you start blending the colours, you’ll end up with a flawless, multidimensional finish. This latest layering method has caused somewhat of a mixed reaction; some think clown contouring is too much, whereas others believe it’s an ingenious way to ‘grow’ a pair of cheekbones, quickly. Whether or not we feel the need to use cosmetics in order to feel or look beautiful, make-up is and should be enjoyable. And for those of us who don’t fear clowns, it’s an effective and fun way to achieve that immaculate look.
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AIGNER LAUNCHES CYBILL METROPOLITAN COLLECTION For its 50th anniversary, Aigner launched its limited edition Cybill Metropolitan Bags to celebrate the diversity and unique characteristics of cities worldwide. Ten major cities including New York, San Francisco, UAE, and Kuwait were launched this season. The brand also showcased the Qatar Bag, made out of Arabesque patterns, keeping in mind the rich heritage of Islamic culture. This ornamental inspiration turns the signature bag into a chic oriental. The collection is now available at Blue Salon.
8TH EDITION OF HEYA ARABIAN EXHIBITION Heya Arabian Fashion Exhibition is Qatar’s largest women’s fashion exhibition of Arab and Khaliji designed abayas, Arabic kaftans, veils and evening gowns. The 2015 edition aims to transform this event into a world-class fashion destination. Hosted by Qatar Tourism Authority in partnership with Design Creationz, this event will take place from November 12 – 18 at the Doha Exhibition and Convention Centre.
The exhibition will feature over 300 brands and designers from Qatar, Bahrain, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, United Arab Emirates, India, Turkey and many more. There will be two fashion shows per day and two fashion forums with leading personalities. Fashion and design related workshops will also take place. The exhibition will see 347 customised boutique spaces, two lifestyle studios and 6 days of non-stop fashion.
AROUND TOWN / 103
SWAROVSKI LAUNCHES NEW FALL/WINTER 2015 COLLECTION Swarovski celebrated the launch of the new Autumn/Winter 2015 collection. The theme was ‘Gardens' and the collection captured the exquisite elegance of two types of winter gardens. First, the English manor style which evokes an enchantment of romantic jewellery crafted in deep berry hues and second, the beauty
of Asian stone gardens, serene and organic, with lustrous mixed metal tones. Each piece can be personalised and marks fall’s style trends. From joyful stars and lucky clovers to frozen blooms, jewellery is re-imagined with a modern edge. The collection is now available at the Swarovski store in Lagoona Mall.
MICHEAL KORS OPENS NEW LIFESTYLE STORE Michael Kors has opened the new Michael Kors Lifestyle store at Lagoona mall in Doha. The store carries a mix of accessories from both the Michael Kors collection and MICHAEL, Michael Kors labels, as well as watches, jewellery, footwear and eyewear. The store will also carry ready-to-wear from the MICHAEL Michael Kors line and a selection of the brand’s fragrances. The brand’s in-house team has designed the store experience to echo the label’s casual-chic aesthetic, using elements like zebraprint furniture, sleek metal fixtures, mirrored surfaces and glossy, large-scale vintage photographs to evoke jetset glamour and timeless sophistication. “I’m looking forward to opening a store in Doha, the sophisticated customer there will be captivated by our glamorous jetset product.” says Michael Kors.
SHOW STOPPERS The Kayys Autumn Winter 2015
SHOW STOPPERS The Kayys Autumn Winter 2015
SHOW STOPPERS The Kayys Autumn Winter 2015
SHOW STOPPERS The Kayys Autumn Winter 2015
SHOW STOPPERS The Kayys Autumn Winter 2015
SHOW STOPPERS The Kayys Autumn Winter 2015
SHOW STOPPERS The Kayys Autumn Winter 2015