T Qatar Issue 12 - Spring Fashion 2012 by Oryx Group of Magazines

10 Contributors 12 remix

36 Remix Qatar

ap of Luxury, Alfie's lounge, Nautical L time pieces, Celine calling, Art Dubai

Styled to a T: Kerry Condon, threeASFOUR , the team behind the redone Hotel Bel-Air, Mika Rottenberg, Frith Kerr, Tino Seubert. The model Karmen Pedaru’s spring favourites, confessions of a shoulder-pad addict, Carolina Herrera’s print fetish. Clothing swaps (east and west), Profile in Style: Sarah Lavoine.

50 seen qatar

The New York Times Style Magazine SPRING FASHION 2012

Vibrant artworks of 18 emerging Qatari artists. By Cassey Oliveira. Saudi artist Manal AlDowayan speaks through her multi-media work. The man and the machine, makers of classical symphony. By Sindhu Nair. Crafting gems from Istanbul. By Debrina Aliyah.

74 Trends

No.1:Lunatic Fringe. But in a good way. No.2: Iridescence. All you mermaid wannabes, glisten up!

84 Safe at Home

Having survived a brutal sexual attack, Lara Logan remains a tenacious journalist, albeit one steeped in risk assessment. By Sally Singer. Photographs by Cass Bird. Fashion Editor: Ethel Park

88 Shimmer like your sister Kate Thanks to studs, beads and posh paillettes, everything this spring is illuminated. Photographs by Ed Templeton. Fashion editor: Sara Moonves

94 A STAR IS BORN (AND SCORNED)

For some reason, Lana Del Rey and her sultry songs deive some people nuts. By Jacob Brown. Photographs by Terry Richardson. Styled by Mel Oteenberg

100 Timely

La Toya Ruby Frazier. By Alix Browne. Photograph by Cameron Krone

On the cover Photograph by terry richardson. the singer lana del rey wears a maxmara shirt, QR1,983.8 ($545). tiffany & company necklace, QR2,457 ($675).

contributors Shiva

Rose

The Iranian-American actress Shiva Rose believes that one woman’s trash is another woman’s togs, if not treasure. Rose wrote about a clothing swap she hosted for her fashionable friends in Los Angeles (Page22), where, for instance, the actress Amber Valletta found an Isabel Marant knit sweater. In addition to her charity work, Rose is developing a TV show spinoff of her blog, the Local Rose, which offers eco-friendly tips on food and fashion.

Templeton

The artist and professional skateboarder Ed Templeton typically photographs young strangers or skaters on the streets. Of his first-ever fashion shoot with a professional model — ‘‘Shimmer Like Your Sister Kate’’ (Page 88), starring the sought-after muse Ruby Aldridge in his hometown of Huntington Beach, Calif. — he says: ‘‘to have a beautiful girl wearing crazy beaded high-end clothes in a controlled situation was almost too easy.’’ Templeton, who dropped out of high school a month before graduation to skate in contests in Europe, is now working on a video with his skate company, Toy Machine, about last year’s ‘‘amateur of the year,’’ Collin Provost.

Vanessa Mel

Ottenberg

‘‘It’s fun to work with the new girl on the block,’’ says the stylist Mel Ottenberg, who dressed T’s cover girl, Lana Del Rey (Page 94). An old hand at polishing the looks of pop stars — he is Rihanna’s stylist (dig this year’s Grammys?) — Ottenberg grew up in Washington, D.C., where ‘‘nobody was stylish except for my mom and my stepmom,’’ he says. Ottenberg, now a fashion editor at Purple magazine, studied fashion design and drawing at Rhode Island School of Design and later ‘‘fell into styling’’ for photographers like Steven Klein and Terry Richardson.

& editor-in-chief Yousuf Jassem Al Darwish chief executive Sandeep Sehgal executive vice president Alpana Roy vice president Ravi Raman

publisher

Nair Orna Ballout correspondent Rory Coen Ezdihar Ibrahim Ali editorial coordinator Cassey Oliveira

deputy editor Sindhu

fashion

lifest yle correspondent

art director Venkat

Reddy Abu Saiam senior graphic designer Ayush Indrajith graphic designer Maheshwar Reddy photography Rob Altamirano assistant art director Hanan

– marketing Zulfikar Jiffry Karandana media consultant Hassan Rekkab

managers

senior media consultant Chaturka

marketing research

& supp ort

executive

Emily Landry

accountant Pratap Chandran

sr. distribution executive Bikram Shrestha distribution supp ort Arjun Timilsina Bhimal Rai

Qatar

published by

Traina Oryx Advertising Co WLL P.O. Box 3272; Doha-Qatar Tel: (+974) 44672139, 44550983, 44671173, 44667584 Fax: (+974) 44550982 Email: tqatar@omsqatar.com website: www.omsqatar.com

Vanessa Traina, one of T’s fashion editors, has a knack for giving runway trends a twist — both on and off the page. Traina moonlights for the new unconventional fashion magazine Garage. kathryn branch

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The Trend

Get Shorty. This season, the suit that holds all the power comes in a shorts and blazer combo, thanks to Balmain, Proenza Schouler and Ralph Lauren.

The Girl

In the HBO series ‘‘Luck,’’ the Irish beauty Kerry Condon plays an ambitious jockey who goes headto-head with the boys in the often sordid world of horse racing.

photograph BY cass bird Fashion Editor: Sara moonves maxmara jacket, QR4,186, shorts, QR2,166, and shirt, QR2166. jennifer meyer necklace, QR1,820. aldo rise for j. w. anderson shoes, QR728.

fashion associate: Rae Boxer. hair by maranda at the wall group. makeup by fiona stiles for the wall group.

The Look

The length hits the knee, like this MaxMara sportif shorts-suit. Hot pants or Bermudas: the jacket matches.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

Below: Tabitha simmons shoes, QR5,278. right: Reed krakoff pants, QR6,152.

PLay it again

What to do when everything you want to wear now — gingham and Converse; quirky pants and cable sweaters; slip dresses and slip-ons; military jackets and solid gold jewelry — bears a curious resemblance to the clothes you loved in high school? You regress and get dressed. ja n e h e r m a n

chanel

Clockwise from above: Christopher Kane sandals, QR2,446. Marc jacobs dress, QR4,368. Vanessa Bruno dress, QR1,875. Jack Vartanian earrings, QR20,238.

clockwise from left: Proenza Schouler pants, QR2,639. sportmax bag, QR4,332. yves saint laurent shoes, QR6,170.

from left: CÉline bag, QR7,644. Converse by john varvatos sneakers, QR528. Rochas sweater, QR4,179.

still lifes: jens mortensen (10); Runway: go Runway.

calvin klein

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

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SHOULDERING ON

Still current The spring 2012 runways teemed with shoulder-enhanced dresses and jackets, including this look from Lanvin.

ith spring looming, I’m working on what to wear when coats come off, and for me, a recovering shoulder-pad addict, that means figuring out where exactly big shoulders are headed. Are they trending up or down, or are we all like the voters upon whom our nation’s fate depends, ‘‘Undecided’’? Put another way: should I bet my 99 percenter’s savings on this fashion trope or put the money toward something practical, like unlimited texting? Though the spring runways were filled with shoulder-enhanced dresses and jackets, for any woman who associates big shoulders with Bea Arthur rather than with Grace Jones, designers offered plenty of sleeveless and slope-shouldered alternatives. Furthermore, none of the padded shoulders evoked the embattled ambition trademarked by the two great Joans: Crawford and Collins. At Haider Ackermann, amplified shoulders were draped, not like a Joan, with career-girl gabardine or Texas divorcée feathers, but with shimmering, harem-worthy silk. The feeling wasn’t ‘‘Let’s bust a glass ceiling’’ but more ‘‘I’ll be slinking around with the literati in Tangier.’’ As for the vivid graphic jackets that Nicolas Ghesquière produced for Balenciaga, even when shown with what looked like underpants, they have an authority that goes far beyond mere striving. These richly colored metallic carapaces are positively regal — albeit in a distant galaxy. I write this now as one who back in 1982 got married in shoulder pads the size of water wings. They were white

Go Runway

Confessions of a shoulderpad addict. By Lynn Phillips

cavalli

haider ackermann

She tells me that when women with narrow shoulders try them on, they gasp and sigh with relief. The trick, she says, is to keep the armhole tight, the look ‘‘lithe’’ rather than bulky and to avoid at all costs the raglan sleeve. I am also sorely tempted by Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, who has gone back to a ’40s silhouette but pushed the womanly feeling of its ambisexual frisson to the fore. His ambition this year, he has said, is to make clothes in which women feel not only complex and beautiful but ‘‘strong,’’ meaning able to cope with life’s challenges and these uncertain times. This feels to me like the strategy most likely to keep the prosthetic shoulder alive. Olivier Rousteing, in his first major show at Balmain, has stitched what he described as a combination of Las Vegas and toreador looks into outfits that suggest to me a Neolithic Romanian river goddess I once loved because her swirling tattoos and wide shouldered, curvy body looked significant and transcendent, not merely fertile. If I was young, and fit, and flat, I’d squeeze into one of Balmain’s minis and marry someone adorable. In the meantime, I’ve fished out a pair of vintage pads and stuck them under my T-shirt, just for a taste. Feeling their mojo, I found myself fantasizing about Michael Jackson’s jacket, but not the shoulders. No; what I envy now are those other much-desired male appendages: pockets. Because when it comes to men’s-wear detailing, what a sexy, fun, flash-mobbing woman of the social media age really needs is a garment that can keep her smartphone at the ready and prevent her earbuds from getting tangled with her keys. Personally, I’d trade that for unlimited texting.n

balenciaga

Padding the outcome Some designers believe that shoulder pads make an outfit work architecturally and make women feel assertive and strong.

Go runway

foam wedges, semicircular and detachable, in case you planned to wear a coat whose pads were even bigger. (I did.) The Norma Kamali two-piece to which these wads gave form was almost an afterthought because for me shoulder pads were the point. When I said, ‘‘I do,’’ the line of my shoulders would be straight enough to deflect any wicked curves marriage might throw me. I was after timeless poise: Hepburn, say, in ‘‘Bringing Up Baby,’’ or Dietrich lounging around some yacht with a willing countess while thinking up ways to fight fascism. For the past 30 years, though, whenever I look at my wedding pictures, all I can think of (besides ‘‘My husband is so adorable!’’) is how Then my dress seems and how hard it was to part with that ingenue quarterback look. But, just as I was about to toss my vintage prosthetics, shoulder pads swaggered back with a vengeance. For spring 2009 Christophe Decarnin, then at Balmain, came up with a leather linebacker jacket that Victoria Beckham was seen wearing over and over again. Rihanna performed in a Gareth Pugh-inspired white futuristic fantasia, a light show embedded in each of her giant capped sleeves. And Lady Gaga? She emerged from an alien egg wearing a sexy flesh-toned, sharp-shouldered female monster look by Mugler.These were not Hillary Clinton’s respectably assertive anatomical addenda; these were shoulder pads designed to punch your eyes out. Fashion bloggers split down the middle. Some were elated: the shoulder pad illusion would shave five pounds from their waists and hips; also, they could now play ironically with some earlier era’s notion of ‘‘modern.’’ But many others were horrified, associating shoulder pads with clunky ’80s do-not-even-think-of-groping-me power suits. Now, with so many designers working to sustain the value-added shoulder, I feel myself weakening, although I still vividly remember that terrible late-’80s stylequake, when Romeo Gigli showed a new, ‘‘more feminine’’ sloped shoulder and it struck tastemakers as the liberation from Women’s Liberation that they’d been longing for. Overnight, wide-shouldered silhouettes melted like wax. Heroin chic hooked everyone on a new body type: boyish, waiflike. That’s when I became aware that not all body types are created equal. Like Michael Jackson’s, for example, mine needed pumping up, though for an entirely different reason. Whereas the cap-sleeved black ‘‘V’’ on his red jacket in ‘‘Thriller’’ was designed to make him look more virile by increasing the appearance of his shoulder-to-waist ratio, I had always used padded shoulders for the opposite effect: they made my every move seem more female by force of contrast. I was like one of those overnight dates who look great in nothing more fetching than their boyfriend’s shirt. So I resisted fashion’s edicts and sulked until my decade’s worth of padded jackets, languishing in dry cleaners’ bags, started to look about as desirable as suburban real estate — and just as good an investment. The virtues of shoulder pads, however, endure. As any designer will tell you, padded shoulders make an outfit work architecturally. They make fabric fall well and give off-the-rack jackets a whiff of the bespoke. They also make you want to move your shoulders when you walk, either with a jaunty saunter or a gunslinger’s lope, and a little attitude is always attractive. Maybe because a shoulder-pad addict is never entirely cured, I might dip my toe in at Daryl K. I spotted a couple of T-shirts with charming little pads at her Bond Street shop.

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A Modern Goddess

For the first time in her 16-year career, Diana Vishneva, the Mariinsky and American Ballet Theatre prima ballerina, has hung up her toe shoes to dance a piece by Martha Graham. Next month the Russian starlet will perform Graham’s 1947 ‘‘Errand Into the Maze,’’ along with two other contemporary works, in New York. The Graham piece is inspired by Ariadne and the Minotaur and is a riff on sexual self-awareness. Vishneva is flat-footed throughout and wears a floaty, quite lyrical dress (left) — a far cry from her usual tutus — a design done for the original Graham production. ‘‘In classical roles you don’t have the freedom to express deep inner emotions the way I do now,’’ says the 35-yearold, conceding that she could never have taken on the part as a young girl. ‘‘Even in Ariadne’s weakness, the role of the maid, she is still strong and powerful.’’ For the other two works, ‘‘Dialogue’’ by John Neumeier and ‘‘Subject to Change’’ by Paul Lightfoot and Sol León, she dances in a maroon housedress-like leotard and white Victorian blouson and briefs, respectively. Asked how this new program and new look have been received thus far in Moscow and St. Petersburg, she said cutely: ‘‘Taking the roof off.’’ chelsea zalopany

model choices Five favorites for spring straight from the hottest source on the runway: Karmen Pedaru.

2. Gucci satin side band pants, QR4,550. Go to gucci.com. 3. Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci shark metal necklace, QR3494. at Alchemist, Miami. 4. Tom Ford sequined dress with sequined leggings, Price on request. at Tom Ford, New York. 5. Céline suede platform sandals with ankle strap, QR3,622. at Barneys New York.

Dialed Down

The dress watch du jour has a band skinny as a bracelet and a dainty face that says there’s no excuse for being fashionably late. e d wa r d b a r s a m i a n From left to right: Movado Bela, QR28,756. Timex Cavatina, QR127. Louis Vuitton Tambour Bijou Blush, about QR14,742. David Yurman Petite Madison, QR65,156. Bulova Crystal, QR1,088. Graff BabyGraff, price on request. Bulgari B.Zero1, QR12,922. H. Stern Golden Stones, QR11,284.

Top: nikolai krusser; Watches: jens mortensen (7), fordmodelsfashion.com

1. Michael Kors python print cutout belted maillot with swim python trim, QR1,802. Go to neiman marcus.com.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

remix Love Birds, Resort ‘07. Above: Parasol, Resort ‘11. Below: Poppy Flowers, Fall ‘07.

Swimming Ladies, Spring ‘05. Below: CHairs, Resort ‘08.

From left: Dancers, prefall ‘10; Photo Collage, Fall ‘10; Violets, resort ‘08.

from left: Feathers, Prefall ‘11; CLOVERS, Resort ‘07; Botanical, Spring ‘11.

from left: Mushrooms, resort ‘12; Swimming Ladies, spring ‘05; bubbles, resort ‘12.

print run

Blueprint From left: Carolina Herrera at her spring 2012 Bauhaus-inspired mood board; three of the collection’s runway looks.

You would never know from her daily uniform — a crisp white shirt and trousers — that Carolina Herrera is a lover of prints. Every season, however, the designer anchors her collection with a motif that’s whimsical, graphic, even a tad goofy. Over the years we’ve seen Art Deco swimmers (spring 2005), digital renderings of feathers (fall ’11) and, recently, Herrera’s own toy poodle, Gaspar (prefall ’12). ‘‘It’s very important to have at least one print in every collection,’’ says the designer, who draws inspirations from many places. For instance, for the print of red deck chairs in resort ’08, she studied the paintings of the interiors illustrator Jeremiah Goodman. A Paul Poiret silk scarf begat the naïve garden radishes in spring ’06. ‘‘Print adds a touch of fantasy and is the perfect link for bringing all of the components of the collection together,’’ she says. Plus, they’re fun to look at and wear — as Herrera herself explains, ‘‘Fashion is for the eyes.’’ This season we’re aflutter over her Bauhaus birds in lemon and scarlet. C. Z.

From Top: Jens mortensen; go runway (3); kava gorna.

Carolina Herrera’s seasonal peccadillo.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

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Fair Traders

Got a closet full of great clothes and nothing to wear? Host a swap soirée. As the actress and writer Shiva Rose and the gallery owner Amy Greenspon can attest, from L.A. to New York, one woman’s castoffs are another’s must-haves.

Shiva Rose

Swapped: Heidi Merrick linen skirt, vintage Gucci blouse and Gregory Parkinson floral harem pants. Scored: A 1940s Navajo jacket. ‘‘A must for my Idaho mountain trips.’’ Just Add: A cropped printed cardigan straight off the Bottega Veneta runway. amber valLetta, ACTRESS

Swapped: Vera Wang dress, Balenciaga shoes, Stella McCartney sweater. Scored: Kayne’s black and white Isabel Marant tunic sweater. Just Add: Michael Kors’s baggy, safari styled tie-dyed pants and crocodile messenger bag for the urban adventurer.

Los Angeles

Minnie mortimer, Designer

Swapped: Marni trousers, Paul & Joe blazer, Lela Rose skirt. Scored: Neuwirth’s silver and cream suede Chris Benz dress. Just Add: Seasonless black motorcycle boots from Olivier Rousteing’s debut collection for Balmain.

Jenni Kayne, Designer

Swapped: Isabel Marant sweater, black Prada sweater, Viktor & Rolf top. Scored: A vintage leopard caftan — perfect for her planned Mexican getaway. Just Add: Those metallic sandals and reflective shades from Kayne’s spring collection.

irene neuwirth, designer

Nicole Simone, Singer

Abigail spencer, Actress

Swapped: Tory Burch dress, DKNY sequined top and Cameron Silver jeans. Scored: Kamm’s trouser shorts and blouse. ‘‘Wouldn’t this be great with a men’s fedora?’’ Just Add: When your closet is stacked with quirky frocks (think Mary Katrantzou), a blazer is the ideal counterpoint.

P H O T O G R A P H s B Y dan martensen

Swapped: Chris Benz dresses and gold chandelier earrings from her own line (second best: totes featuring her bejeweled pup). Scored: Simone’s Christian Louboutin boots. Just Add: Any of Donna Karan’s tribal dresses from spring, topped off with Neuwirth’s colorful gems.

Swapped: Christian Louboutin boots, Chloé pink skirt, Martin Grant shirt. Scored: A vintage leather and suede dress from Kamm. ‘‘Something to wear for my next singing gig.’’ Just Add: Supermod, black and white zigzag boots by Chanel.

Jesse Kamm, designer

Swapped: Jasmin Shokrian turquoise silk blouse and pieces of her own design. Scored: Mortimer’s Paul & Joe blazer. Just Add: Anything from Organic by John Patrick. Earthy girls will go for spring’s straightforward khaki, white linen and gray knit pieces.

Phoebe james, PUBLICIST

Swapped: Lanvin white military dress and a spiked bracelet and ring by Tom Binns. Scored: Greenspon’s Proenza Schouler sequined top for a ‘‘rock ‘n’ roll look.’’ Just Add: A blazer and silk shorts from the latest Givenchy collection for a fresh take on the spring suit.

New York

amy greenspon

Swapped: A Proenza Schouler striped silk dress. Scored: Orlov’s Junya Watanabe green jacket, which looked great with her Miu Miu baby-doll dress. Just Add: A leather and mesh body-con dress by her friends Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler.

Masha orlov, STYLIST

Swapped: Jil Sander hot pink coat and a vintage aubergine lace dress. Scored: An Anna Sui shift from her pal Melissa Bent. Just Add: Zac Posen’s black, gold brushed peplum topper.

Melissa bent, ART CONSULTANT

Swapped: YSL by Tom Ford purple blouse, Azzedine Alaïa bodysuit. Scored: Greenspon’s Proenza Schouler sequin and tweed coat. Just Add: Denim pieces from Hudson, Christopher Kane and J Brand to dress it down.

Laura McLawS Helms, FASHION HISTORIAN

dan martensen

Swapped: Terry de Havilland snakeskin platforms. Scored: A Chanel Victorian blouson. Just Add: Gothic gold chain and lacquered chokers from Lanvin, Emilio Pucci or Eddie Borgo.

compiled by Chelsea Zalopany, with additional reporting by Stephanie La cava and Shiva Rose.

photograph BY paul jasmin Fashion Editor: andreas kokkino from left: On rockwell: tallia orange suit, QR1,274. james perse t-shirt, QR164. church’s shoes, QR2,766. On Champalimaud: Narciso Rodriguez dress, QR5,806. At Ikram. Roger vivier shoes, QR2,166.

The Principals The Project The interior designers David Rockwell and Alexandra Champalimaud and the chef Wolfgang Puck teamed up to reinvent a classic from the 1940s.

The Hotel Bel-Air, an Old Hollywood hideaway, was closed for two years while the trio decided what to keep (‘‘Bel-Air pink’’) and what to add (fluted skylights).

The Payoff

A new spa, a restaurant from a master of modern Californian cuisine and, of course, the beloved Swan Lake will lure new and original swans alike.

HAIR AND MAKEUP BY GLORIA NOTO FOR JED ROOT L.A.; GROOMING BY AVIVA USING REDKEN AT STARWORKSARTISTS.COM.

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OLIVE GARDEN Test kitchen Clockwise from top left: Casanova hosts a tasting and private meal; a black Cerasuola olive among green nocellara dolcificate olives; dried persimmons; pecorino; Casanova prepares pasta with dried tuna; the selection of oils.

PHOTOGR A PHs BY THE SELBY

Cédric Casanova ran away from the circus to bring the best of Sicily to Paris.

a Tête Dans Les Olives, a sliver of a food shop and restaurant in the 10th Arrondissement, is the work of Cédric Casanova, a slack-rope walker who spent 15 years performing in traveling circuses, most recently Cirque du Soleil. Casanova developed a passion for Sicily’s fruity olives during summers he spent there as a child — his father is Sicilian — and wanted to share them with his hometown, Paris. The tiny épicerie offers oils and handpicked olives from his favorite growers, along with tapenades, sundried tomatoes and other seasonal delicacies. ‘‘The way people react to good olive oil is like what I see in the circus,’’ Casanova says. ‘‘People smile. They love it.’’ ABBY AGUIRRE

Man on wire Fresh apple crumble with almonds and rum. Right: Casanova on a rope behind the shop.

Fruit forward Clockwise from above: Casanova dices fennel for orange salad; he cuts an orange; a selection of olives, oil, honey and almonds in the front of the store; mustard and oregano honey.

The Selby

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The Artist

Mika Rottenberg‘s video installations, which have been shown at PS1 and the Whitney, depict Rube Goldbergesque machines powered by women with extreme physical features.

The Trend

True Blue. For the Performa 11 biennial, she’ll collaborate with the artist Jon Kessler on ‘‘Seven,’’ an ‘‘alchemical laboratory that transforms body liquids into ‘chakra juices’ in seven colors.’’

The Illusion

Hair by diego da silva at tim howard management. Makeup by Maki Ryoke using chanel.

‘‘The makeup artist on this shoot said that ‘fashion tries to give people their fantasies’ ’’ Rottenberg says. ‘‘In that sense, maybe art tries to give people their nightmares.’’

photograph BY Sebastian Kim Fashion Editor: Ethel Park Salvatore Ferragamo top, QR4,150, and skirt, QR6,115.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

photograph BY ben toms Fashion Editor: vanessa traina l’agence bodysuit, QR 1,383.

The Designer The Fine Print Frith Kerr, the go-to graphic designer for creative clients from the artist Philippe Parreno to the fashion designer Hussein Chalayan, has a way with words.

She is working with Ilse Crawford on the identity for a guesthouse in Stockholm; a catalog for a Valentino show at Somerset House in London is also in the works.

The Look

‘‘I’ve always judged the book by its cover,’’ Kerr says. Her personal style is another story: ‘‘The exterior is quite Calvinistic, but on the inside it’s all rococo.’’

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

fashion assistant: Guillaume harrison. hair by Karin bigler at D+V using redken. makeup by hiromi ueda at julian watson agency using chanel.

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Below left: 1950s rattan chairs, a Nathalie Decoster bronze orb and a Gigi Chen panda in the salon. Right: Penny le chat and flowers from Lavoine’s preferred florist, Vert et Plus.

Left: perched on a linen sofa she designed, Lavoine wears a Salvatore Ferragamo top, a denim skirt by Stella McCartney, Manolo Blahnik strappy heels and Stone jewelry by her sister, Marie Poniatowski. Above: a wall consumed by her husband’s Polaroids. Left: the reasonably childproof library contains numerous works by Albert Cohen, a favorite author.

Sarah Lavoine The Polish princess Sarah Lavoine — nee Poniatowski — is France’s decorator du jour, a designer of perfectly imperfect interiors as well as seriously sleek home décor (go to sarahlavoine.com). Her Paris crib, high above the Tuileries, is an art-filled nest feathered for her children, Yasmine, Roman and Milo, and her husband, the French pop star Marc Lavoine. ‘‘Andrée Putman and Charlotte Perriand are sources of inspiration,’’ says the designer, an unmistakable A-list partygoer. ‘‘I’m the one in the pavé Balmain mini.’’ Christopher Petkanas 34

Above: a painting by Brigitte Waldach looms over a Philippe Starck lamp and an Yves Klein table. Right: the Be@rbrick bear is dressed in Chanel.

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“ ”

Lavoine pauses in the foyer wearing a Ralph Lauren Black Label sweater, a leather skirt by the Row and Church’s shoes. The large photograph is by Valerie Knight.

Below: the designer rocks a Boy by Band of Outsiders shirt, an Azzedine Alaïa skirt and shoes by Gianvito Rossi.

Above: Galignani, the bookshop, is just downstairs. Right: Gordijn and Nauta’s dandelionseed light sculpture.

Left: Roman, 4, and Milo, 1. Right: Lavoine’s hardworking kitchen contains a Tolix lamp, vintage industrial chairs and a playdate straggler.

Kava Gorna. fashion editor: sara moonves. fashion assistant: wil ariyamethe. hair by tomoko ohama. makeup by mickael noiselet.

‘In rooms, in clothes, it’s comfort and timelessness that interest me. I can’t imagine using or wearing something just because it’s in fashion.’

Family snaps and more Decoster hoops in the master suite. Below left: Constance Guisset’s iron ceiling fixture. Below right: a très cher view of the Tuileries and, in the distance, the Eiffel Tower.

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photograph BY Ami sioux Fashion Editor: andreas kokkino

The Designer

The German-born Tino Seubert, a recent graduate of the Free University of Bozen-Bolzano, showed his degree project during the 2011 Milan Furniture Fair.

The Concept

For his collection Forming History, Seubert created designs, including the bench above, based on furniture from historic events like the Nuremberg trials.

The Details

The angles of the pieces, made of solid American walnut, are informed by the positions of figures in archival photographs.

grooming by steven canavan at jed root

Dries Van Noten Jacket, QR4,077, and pants, QR1,762. Dries van noten shirt, QR939. At project No. 8. His own Church & Co. shoes.

‫‪remix qatar‬‬

‫قمــــة الرفاهيـــــة‬ ‫معرض الدوحة للمجوهرات والساعات ‪2012‬‬

‫‪Lap of Luxury‬‬ ‫‪DJWE 2012‬‬

‫‪38‬‬

Bvlgari Bvlgari showcased an exquisite Monete necklace at the exhibition, whose unique design gathers inspiration from the national flag of Qatar. The necklace, made with a dazzling combination of mother of pearls and rubellite beads, also features a decorative antique gold Moroccan coin dated 1018 Hijri.

‫بولغاري‬

.‫عر�ضت بولغاري يف املعر�ض قالدة مونيت رائعة ي�ستوحي ت�صميمها الفريد الإلهام من علم دولة قطر‬ ‫مزينة بعملة مغربية �أثرية‬ ّ ‫ وهي‬،‫ وخرز روبيليت‬،‫وهذه القالدة م�صنوعة من مزيج مبهر من عرق الل�ؤل�ؤ‬ .‫ هجرية‬1018 ‫من الذهب يعود تاريخها �إىل �سنة‬

Van Cleef & Arpels Van Cleef & Arpels dazzled the crowd with its Bals De Legende collection including this mesmerizing Hibiscus timepiece, featuring a white mother of pearl dial and a total of 482 diamonds of almost 14.5 carats. According to VCA, Regional Director, Alban Belloir: “Qatar is a very strategic market, not just because it’s a wealthy country, but because Qatari women in particular are connoisseurs who have an eye for jewellery.”

‫فان كليف آند آربيلز‬

‫بهرت فان كليف �آند �آربيلز اجلماهري من خالل جمموعتها الفريدة التي ت�ضم هذه التحفة الفنية التي‬ 14.5 ‫ قطعة ما�س وزنها ما جمموعه تقريبا‬482 ‫تتميز مبينائها امل�صنوع من عرق الل�ؤل�ؤ املر�صع بـ‬ ،‫ "�إن قطر �سوق �إ�سرتاتيجية للغاية‬:‫ املدير الإقليمي لفان كليف �آند �آربيلز‬،‫ ويقول �ألبان بيلوار‬.‫قرياطا‬ ‫ و�إمنا �أي�ضا لأننا ن�ؤمن ب�أن املر�أة القطرية على وجه اخل�صو�ص خبرية‬،‫لي�س لأنها بلد غني فح�سب‬ ."‫باملجوهرات‬

Mouawad Model and former Miss Universe Natalie Glebova wearing the stunning Snow White Princess Diamond Watch from Mouawad. Totalling 106.93 carats, the luxurious diamond timepiece is valued at a whopping QR25 million.

‫معوض‬

‫ وهي ترتدي �ساعة الأمرية بيا�ض‬،‫معو�ض وعار�ضة الأزياء وملكة جمال الكون ال�سابقة ناتايل غليبوفا‬ ‫ وهي مر�صعة بقطع ما�س‬،‫ مليون ريال قطري‬25 ‫ وتبلغ قيمة هذه ال�ساعة‬.‫الثلج املا�سية من معو�ض‬ ‫ قرياطا‬106.93 ‫عيارها ما جمموعه‬

remix qatar

Noudar “Noudar is an old Arabic word for gold. The collections are based on modernized Arab concepts that seek inspiration from our rich culture and heritage,” says Noor Al Fardan, Vice President of Al Fardan jewellery, who carries the Alfardan legacy forward with the official launch of her new jewelry brand ‘Noudar’ at the exhibition.

‫نوادر‬

‫ نائب رئي�س الفردان للمجوهرات التي ارتقت ب�إرث‬،‫قالت نور الفردان‬ »‫الفردان �إىل م�ستويات جديدة ب�إطالقها العالمة التجارية اجلديدة «نوادر‬ ‫ وترتكز هذه‬.‫ "�إن نوادر هي كلمة عربية قدمية تعني الذهب‬:‫يف املعر�ض‬ ‫املجموعة �إىل املفاهيم العربية احلديثة التي تلتم�س الإلهام من ثقافتنا‬ ."‫وتراثنا الغني‬

Corum Corum presented its latest timepieces with star appeal, thanks to an appearance from Lebanese singing superstar and brand ambassador for Corum, Elissa Khoury (center). Her favourite piece – the Miss Golden Bridge, is a modern take on the legendary Golden Bridge which was first presented by Corum in 1980.

‫كوروم‬

‫عر�ضت كوروم �أحدث �ساعاتها من خالل جنمة الغناء اللبناين و�سفرية‬ .)‫ �إلي�سا خوري امل�شهورة با�سم �إلي�سا (يف املنت�صف‬،‫العالمة التجارية‬ ‫ وهي ن�سخة ع�رصية من‬،‫و�ساعة �إلي�سا املف�ضلة هي م�س غولدن بريدج‬ ‫ التي طرحتها كوروم للمرة الأوىل يف عام‬،‫�ساعة غولدن بريدج الأ�سطورية‬ .1980 40

Audemars Piguet Two very important complications-the Chrono AP Jules Audemars in platinum and the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon-were unvelied at the exhibition by Audemars Piguet. “We are one of the very few watchmakers still running in the hands of its founding family. All our watches are made by craftsmen rather than machines, and are made to last longer,” says Nicolas Garzouzi, Chairman & CEO, Audemars Piguet.

‫أوديمار بيغي‬ ‫ هما كرونو �إيه بي جولز‬،‫ُعر�ض يف املعر�ض موديالن مهمان للغاية‬ ‫ ورويال �أوك �أوف�شور توربيون ويقول رئي�س جمل�س‬، ‫اودميار البالتينية‬ ‫ "نحن‬:‫الإدارة والرئي�س التنفيذي ل�رشكة �أودميار بيغي نيكوال غارزوزي‬ ‫من ال�رشكات امل�صنعة لل�ساعات القليلة التي ما زالت تدار من قبل عائلة‬ ‫ كما �أننا ن�ص ّنع جميع �ساعاتنا من خالل حرفيينا بدال من‬،‫امل�ؤ�س�سني‬ ."‫الآالت كي تدوم لفرتة �أطول‬

Officine Panerai The Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Ceramica not only offers the sophisticated tourbillion regulator mechanism patented by Officine Panerai, but also the indication of a second time zone and the visual display of the power reserve of six days. “We have a unique DNA, an Italian brand made in Switzerland where they are renowned for making the best watches in the world. We’re not trendy, we’re classical but innovating, and by default we’re trendsetters,” says Milvin George, Managing Director, Officine Panerai.

‎‬‫‫بانيراي‬ ‫�آلية‬ ،‫ توربيلون جي �أم تي �سرياميكا‬1‪ 950‬‫لومينور‬‪ ‫ال تقدم �ساع ‬ة‬ ‫ و�إمنا تعطي �أي�ضا الزمن ملنطقة‬،‫التوربيون املتطورة للتنظيم فح�سب‬ .‫ كما �أنها ُتظهر ب�صورة مرئية احتياطي الطاقة ل�ستة �أيام‬،‫زمنية �إ�ضافية‬ ‫ النواحي التي متيز هذه العالمة‬،‫ميلفني جورج‬‪‬ ،‫و�أو�ضح الع�ضو املنتدب‬ ‫ "نحن عالمة جتارية �إيطالية م�صنوعة يف‬:‫التجارية عن غريها قائال‬ ‫ كما �أننا لي�ست‬،‫�سوي�رسا امل�شهورة ب�صناعة �أف�ضل ال�ساعات يف العامل‬ ‫ كما �أننا نحدد‬،‫ لكننا �أي�ضا مبتكرون‬،‫ و�إمنا كال�سيكيون‬،‫بع�رصيني‬ ."‫بطريقة �أو ب�أخرى اجتاهات املو�ضة‬

remix qatar

Jaeger-LeCoultre With a total of 1231 calibERs to date, Jaeger-LeCoultre is the creator of the biggest number of watch movements in the industry. “The Reverso is a classic that has become the most sought-after piece by accomplished personalities. In this same line, we have introduced the new Reverso, which is flatter than its predecessors and is well-received in our markets especially Asia,” says Janek Deleskiewicz, Artistic and Design Director, Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Cartier A model flaunting an awe-inspiring set from Cartier, which delighted the crowd with its range comprising diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, precious gems and fine pearls that reflect its DNA. “We always strive to remain true to our two core values of creativity and craftsmanship. Most of the inspiration is gathered from the archives and then reinterpreted to create timeless designs,” reveals Louis FErla, Managing Director, Cartier Middle East and India.

‫كارتييه‬

‫عار�ضة �أزياء وهي تتباهى مبجموعة مذهلة من كارتييه التي �أثارت‬ ،‫ والياقوت‬،‫�إعجاب اجلماهري من خالل جمموعتها التي ت�ضم املا�س‬ .‫ مما يعك�س جوهر كارتييه‬،‫ والل�ؤل�ؤ الراقي‬،‫ والأحجار الكرمية‬،‫والزمرد‬ ‫ الع�ضو املنتدب يف كارتييه ال�رشق الأو�سط‬،‫وعن ذلك يقول لوي�س فريال‬ ‫ وهي الإبداع واملهارة‬،‫ «ن�سعى دائما لنظل �أوفياء لقيمنا الأ�سا�سية‬:‫والهند‬ ‫ ومن ثم نعيد‬،‫ ونحن ن�ستوحي الكثري من الأفكار من حمفوظاتنا‬.‫احلرفية‬ .»‫تف�سريها بعد ذلك لإبداع ت�صاميم خالدة‬

Parmigiani Fleurier A magnificent diamond-studded table clock “Falcon” worth QR15 million was displayed by Parmigiani Fleurier. Manufactured in Sweden, the object d’art is a brilliant interpretation of the Middle Eastern tradition of falconry, and pays homage to the famous animal sculptor Edouard-Marcel Sandoz.

‫برمجياني فلورييه‬ 15 ‫�ساعة الطاولة الرائعة «فالكون» املر�صعة باملا�س التي تبلغ قيمتها‬ ‫ وقد مت ت�صنيع هذه القطعة الفنية‬.‫مليون ريال من برجمياين فلوريه‬ ‫ وهي تف�سري رائع لتقاليد ال�صيد بال�صقور يف منطقة ال�رشق‬،‫يف ال�سويد‬ ‫ مار�سيل �ساندوز‬-‫ كما �أنها تكرم نحات احليوانات ال�شهري �إدوارد‬،‫الأو�سط‬ 42

‫ ليكولتر‬-‫جايغر‬

‫ ليكولت حتى‬-‫يبلغ عدد احلركات امليكانيكية التي �صممتها جايغر‬ ‫ لذا ف�إنها ال�رشكة املبتكرة لأكرب عدد من احلركات‬،‫ حركة‬1231 ‫الآن‬ ‫ ويقول املدير الفني ومدير الت�صميم يف‬.‫امليكانيكية يف عامل ال�ساعات‬ ‫ "�إن ريفري�سو هي �ساعة كال�سيكية‬:‫ جانيك ديلي�سكيوكز‬،‫ ليكولرت‬-‫جايغر‬ ،‫ ويف هذا اخلط ذاته‬.‫�أ�صبحت ال�ساعة الأكرث رواجا بني ال�شخ�صيات الكبرية‬ ‫ وقد القت‬،‫قدمنا ريفري�سو اجلديدة التي هي �أقل �سماكة من �سابقاتها‬ ."‫ وال�سيما �آ�سيا‬،‫روجا جيدا يف �أ�سواقنا اجلديدة‬

Al Zain Luxury Bahraini jewellery designers Al Zain unveiled their largest ever collection, featuring the signature collection of 18-carat handcrafted white-gold and rose-gold pieces and a selection of stunning diamonds. “We feel that unveiling our new brand here at this prestigious event displays our commitment to this market. The fact that we will soon open a store in Doha is further evidence of our belief in the strength of this market and we look forward to bringing more examples of our quality and craftsmanship here in the future,” highlights Nabeel Al Zain, CEO, Al Zain Jewellery.

‫الزين‬

‫ النقاب عن �أكرب‬،‫ الزين‬،‫ك�شفت دار ت�صميم و�صنع املجوهرات البحرينية الرائدة‬ ‫جمموعة لها ت�ضم ت�صاميم جديدة وح�رصية من القطع امل�صنوعة يدويا من‬ ‫ �إ�ضافة �إىل جمموعة خمتارة من‬،18 ‫ والذهب الوردي عيار‬،‫الذهب الأبي�ض‬ ،‫ قال الرئي�س التنفيذي ل�رشكة جموهرات الزين‬،‫ وبهذه املنا�سبة‬.‫املا�س املذهل‬ ‫ "لقد �شعرنا �أن الك�شف عن عالمتنا التجارية اجلديدة يف هذا احلدث‬:‫نبيل الزين‬ ‫ كما �أن اعتزامنا فتح متجر لنا يف الدوحة‬،‫الكبري يظهر التزامنا بهذه ال�سوق‬ ‫ ونحن نتطلع �إىل جلب املزيد من الأمثلة‬،‫قريبا يو�ضح �إمياننا بقوة هذه ال�سوق‬ ."‫على جودتنا وحرفيتنا يف امل�ستقبل‬

Leo Pizzo A model presents a beautiful set from whimsical wedding favorite Leo Pizzo. “In this market, sets for weddings are very important, so we try to start something in the medium range because they already have big names such as Enclave,” says GineVRa Pirotta, a representative of Leo Pizzo.

‫ليو بيتسو‬

‫عار�ضة �أزياء وهي تقدم جمموعة جميلة حلفالت الزفاف من ليو‬ ،‫ "يف هذه ال�سوق‬:‫ ممثلة ليو بيت�سو‬،‫ وتقول جينيفرا بريوتا‬.‫بيت�سو‬ ‫ لذا �سنحاول تقدمي‬،‫تعترب جمموعات حفالت الزفاف مهمة جدا‬ ‫ لأن هنالك بالفعل �أ�سماء كبرية جدا‬،‫�شيئا ما على املدى املتو�سط‬ ."‫مثل �إنكاليف‬ Prologue Favourite to royal families and VIPS, family-run business Prologue has built its reputation creating unique hand-made jewelry and collector items. According to Prologue, President, Pedro De Aranda, “Under The Sea was a major highlight because it took us a year and a half to manufacture using different materialS and techniques. We started carving the shell itself, then engraveD and carveD. all the rest you see is silver, gold, copper, brass and wood.”

‫برولوغ‬

‫ تت�سابق‬،‫ ت�ص ّنع يدويا جموهرات رائعة‬،‫برولوغ هي �رشكة عائلية‬ ‫العائالت املالكة وكبار ال�شخ�صيات وهواة جمع املقتنيات الثمينة‬ ‫ "�إن حتفتنا‬:‫ بيدرو دي �آراندا‬،‫ ويقول رئي�س برولوغ‬.‫للح�صول عليها‬ ‫ لأننا احتجنا �إىل عام ون�صف العام‬،‫هي واحدة من قطعنا الرئي�سة‬ ‫ وقد بد�أنا بنحت‬.‫كي ن�صنعها با�ستخدام خمتلف املعادن والتقنيات‬ ‫ ومن ثم‬،‫ ثم �أدخلنا املعدن عليها‬،‫ ثم نق�شنا عليها‬،‫ال�صدفة نف�سها‬ ."‫ واخل�شب‬،‫ والنحا�س‬،‫ والذهب‬،‫طعمناها بالف�ضة‬

Sevan Bicakci Making its debut in Qatar comes one-of-a-kind pieces from Sevan Bicakci, which represents the artist’s creativity and that of his hometown, Istanbul. Sevan Bicakci produces an ever-growing range of showstoppers using materials such as the usual precious stones, and interesting elements like camel bone and miniscule mosaic tiles.

‫سيفان بيتشاتشي‬

،‫عر�ض �سيفان بيت�شات�شي لأول مرة يف قطر قطعا فريدة من نوعها‬ .‫جت�سد روح الفنان �سيفان بيت�شات�شي وم�سقط ر�أ�سه ا�سطنبول‬ ‫ لكنها تنمو با�ستمرار وت�ضم قطع‬،‫ولدى �سيفان جمموعة واحدة‬ ‫جموهرات م�صنوعة من �أنواع خمتلفة من املواد بدءا من احلجارة‬ ‫ وانتهاء بالعنا�رص املثرية‬،‫ و�شبه الكرمية‬،‫العادية الكرمية‬ .‫لالهتمام مثل عظام اجلمل وقطع املوزاييك ال�صغرية‬ 43

remix qatar Mont Blanc The exceptional Princess Grace Kelly Collection, paying homage to the late Princess of Monaco, was displayed among a selection of stunning Mont Blanc pieces. “We are now developing the watch and jewelry story of our brand, introducing first time novelties and high-end haute horlogerie with new complications and tourbillion movements in the region,” notes Sonke Tornieporth, Global Business Unit Central Vice President, Mont Blanc.

‫مون بالن‬ ‫ُعر�ضت يف املعر�ض جمموعة الأمرية غري�س كيلي اال�ستثنائية‬ ‫التي تكرم �أمرية موناكو الراحلة مع جمموعة خمتارة من �إبداعات‬ ‫ نائب الرئي�س لوحدة الأعمال‬،‫ وقال �سونكه تورنيبورث‬.‫مون بالن‬ ‫ "�إننا نطور الآن ق�صة ال�ساعات‬:‫العاملية للعالمة التجارية‬ ‫ و�سنطرح يف هذه املنطقة قطعا‬،‫واملجوهرات لعالمتنا التجارية‬ ."‫جديدة و�ساعات راقية ذات حركات جديدة‬

Chaumet Pretty hair jewelry is a major trend this year, and at the forefront of the pack, is Chaumet with its delivery of fabulous tiaras. Chaumet has in fact always been the purveyor of tiaras in its rich 200-year legacy. The latest Josephine Collection is a tribute to the Empress, the wife of the great Napolean Bonaparte. It consists three symbolic creations for Chaumet; a genuine jewelry tiara, the naturalistic tiara, and A slim watch.

‫شوميه‬

‫ لذا تقدم‬،‫ هي عودة جموهرات ال�شعر‬2012 ‫�إن �أحدث اجتاهات العام‬ ‫ ولطاملا كانت �شوميه رائدة يف جمال التيجان من‬.‫�شوميه تيجان رائعة‬ ‫ وجمموعة جوزفني الأخرية‬.‫ عام‬200 ‫خالل �إرثها الغني الذي ميتد طيلة‬ ‫ وتتكون‬.‫ زوجة نابليون بونابرت‬،‫هي تكرمي للإمرباطورة جوزفني‬ ‫ هي تاج املجوهرات احلقيقية والتاج‬،‫املجموعة من ثالثة �إبداعات رمزية‬ .‫ وال�ساعة الرقيقة‬،‫الطبيعي‬

Boucheron Boucheron revealed its Quatre-Collection at the festival, featuring out-of-this-world rings that are both classic and trendy. The Quatre ring is a signature piece of the collection and truly embodies the spirit of Boucheron. It features four motifs that define the essence of the brand; the gadroOn-the raised decorative curves, the lines of diamonds; Clous de Paris-the nails of Paris; and grosgrain.

Arnold & Sons Staying true to its roots as the original watchmaker to the British Navy during the times of the colonial British Empire, Arnold & Sons displayed a collection dedicated to legendary British explorer James Cook. “The technology of watch-making and keeping time down to the second helped the navy navigate its way to discover new worlds at a time when everyone else was depending on stars and wind,” explained PhilipPe Boven, the Middle East Brand Manager for Arnold & Sons.

‫ خاتم من مجد‬:‫بوشيرون‬

‫ خالل حقبة الإمرباطورية‬،‫بقيت �أرنولد �أند �سونز وفية جلذورها ك�صانع ال�ساعات الأ�صلي للبحرية الربيطانية‬ .‫الربيطانية اال�ستعمارية فقدمت يف املعر�ض جمموعة مكر�سة للم�ستك�شف الربيطاين الأ�سطوري جيم�س كوك‬ ‫ "لقد �ساعدت تكنولوجيا‬:‫ ذلك قائال‬،‫ مدير العالمة التجارية يف �أرنولد �أند �سونز لل�رشق الأو�سط‬،‫و�أو�ضح فيليب بوفن‬ ‫�صنع ال�ساعات فائقة الدقة �سالح البحرية يف خو�ض غمار املحيطات ال�ستك�شاف عوامل جديدة يف الوقت الذي كان‬ ."‫فيه اجلميع يعتمدون على النجوم والرياح‬

‫أرنولد أند سونز‬ ‫ وخامت‬.‫ك�شفت بو�شريون يف املعر�ض جمموعة كاتر التي ت�ضم خوامت فريدة ع�رصية و�أنيقة‬ ‫ ورائعة جت�سد تراث العالمة‬،‫كاتر هو قطعة من روح بو�شريون مزخرفة ب�أربعة زخارف خمتلفة‬ .‫التجارية يف باري�س املتمثل بفن عمارتها والإبداع فيها‬ 44

Grand Reception

dunhill opens Alfie’s lounge at Jumeirah Emirates Towers

Alfred Dunhill hosted an intimate cocktail reception to celebrate the grand opening of its store and its bar restaurant, Alfie’s, in the Boulevard at Jumeirah Emirates Towers Dubai. The opening was attended by over 200 VIP guests, who enjoyed a selection of cocktails and canapes created by Alfie’s, inspired by its elegant, contemporary British menu, and were entertained by local jazz outfit “Rome Antiques”. Alfie’s is a place where guests will feel relaxed and inspired, encouraged by a welcoming atmosphere and impeccable service. With its masculine, elegant and contemporary look, it will reflect Dunhill’s appreciation that luxury is not illustrated just in a product, but also in the finest experiences and lifestyle—from expertly prepared cocktails to an excellent dining menu, all enjoyed in the modern comfort of the brand’s signature lounge surroundings.

Nautical Watch

After the success of the first two editions, the prestigious sailing event Les Voiles de Saint Barth will be back in the Caribbean from April 2-7, with support from principal partner Richard Mille. Seventy of the world's most beautiful yachts are already registered to battle it out in this prestigious regatta, which promises to woo with its highly challenging courses. The nautical world has been one of the favorite domains on the Richard Mille brand for quite some time now. The partnership is perfectly illustrated in the succession of Richard Mille diving watches, the RM 025 Tourbillon Chronograph, the RM 028 Automatic, the RM 028 Voiles de Saint Barth Automatic and the RM 032 Chronograph.

remix qatar Outstanding Osman

Osman brings a colorful collection of delectable pieces to life in its Spring/Summer 2012 collection. The Osman woman is defined, groomed and together, and opts for pieces with both contrast and balance. A waist cliched tight with a corset or a looser 20's-style silhouette with dropped waist. Beautifully crafted pieces in Merino, Jacquard, Alcantara, French knot and devore embroideries, in pastels punctuated with jewel red, Prussian blue and optic whites, cement the range as a sure bet to sail you through the summer in style!

Celine Calling

Celine captures our imagination with its delivery of cool, sophisticated summer pieces that were made to be noticed. We especially love the bold platform shoes featuring thick ankle straps, bound to set you a step ahead from the rest. And the shopper-style bag also tops our list of must-buy-now pieces that will carry you through summertime with ease.

Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp

Longchamp has hit the big time with its latest collaboration with one of fashion's hottest new designers, Mary Katrantzou. The Greek-born, London-based designer has become a success story since her dazzling digital prints opened the Central Saint Martins graduate show in 2008. The collection of totes, with inspiration such as 'When East Meets West', Asian temples, flower parades, dragons and lanterns, illustrate Katrantzou's fierce fashion flair. All the bags feature a signature leather label embossed with Mary Katrantzou for Longchamp.

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DIVERSITY IN FORM & MATERIAL:

The oldest art fair reinvents itself

Pseudophobia, Mixed Media, Morocco to the Moon

By Jyoti Kalsi

e don’t aspire to be the biggest art fair; we want to be recognized as the most globalized and absolutely essential meeting point on the art world calendar within this region,” says Antonia Carver, Fair Director of Art Dubai. In a city that aspires to build the tallest, biggest and largest of everything, this is an interesting take on ‘standing out’. But Carver (who took over as director in June 2010) believes that in the current economic scenario, the best strategy for the future is to build confidence in Dubai as an art hub and in Art Dubai as a meeting point for the art world.

Rather than increasing the number of galleries, she wants to increase the quality and diversity of the art offered. And more importantly, she wants to expand and enhance the fair’s peripheral programming and educational events to reach out to a wider audience. Last year Art Dubai welcomed 20,000 visitors, which included 60 museum groups - an impressive number by any standards. Carver credits this to the fair’s emphasis on its role as a meeting point, and she sees this role growing in the wake of the recession. “Museum directors, collectors, artists, curators and museum groups want to come to Art Dubai because they get to meet people they don’t meet anywhere else, and to discover art they don’t see anywhere else. Because the fair is small and intimate,

Antonia Carver, Fair Director of Art Dubai

they can have meaningful conversations with everyone they wish to meet at the stands and during the talks, discussions and workshops. We also take them to the museums and art events in Doha, Abu Dhabi and Sharjah, to local galleries, artists’ studios and homes of private collectors. With travel budgets of museums and art institutions being slashed in the West, we want to be on everybody’s radar as the fair where the world can engage with the entire Middle Eastern and Asian art scene. We want to bring a diverse palette of art and an equally diverse group of visitors to appreciate it, discuss it and hopefully buy it,” she says. The sixth edition of Art Dubai, held from March 21 to March 24 at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, will therefore feature a rich diversity of art, and the fair’s largest and most innovative non-commercial program to date. The fair, which is the oldest art fair in the region, has unveiled a new logo and a new corporate identity as it reinvents itself to align with new realities, ranging from the economic downturn to new art fairs in the region. Art in all forms On the commercial front, 74 galleries from 32 countries are slated to participate in this edition. These include well-known European and American galleries and dynamic spaces from the Middle East, Asia, Africa, Australia and Latin America. Exciting first timers

include Platform China from Beijing; Laura Bulian Gallery from Milan, which specializes in contemporary video and photography from Central Asia and is showing art from Kazakhstan and Azerbaijan; and The Running Horse from Beirut, which is bringing a politically-charged show by Alfred Tarazi and Hiba Kalache. Others to watch out for are Argentinian gallery Galeria Teresa Anchorena, with a stand featuring kinetic sculpture, and Mumbai’s Chemould Prescott Road, which has a single-artist focus on new works by Shezad Dawood. The show will also put the spotlight on Indonesian art in Marker, a curated section of concept stands introduced last year. It

‘It is also nice to begin a cultural dialogue between Indonesia and the Arab world, because it is the world's largest Muslim country.'

has commissioned Alia Swastika, curator of the upcoming Jogja Biennale and an artistic director of the Ninth Gwangju Biennale, to curate this section. The galleries she has invited — Ark Galerie, Biasa Artspace, Galeri Canna, D Gallerie and Jogja Contemporary — are working with their artists to produce new work for the fair. “These galleries rarely show at international fairs, so this is something new for our visitors to discover. It is also nice to begin a cultural dialogue between Indonesia and the Arab world, because it is the world’s largest Muslim country,” says Carver. Considering the events of last year, one expects to see art inspired by the Arab Spring at Art Dubai. But the fair has deliberately stayed away from curating a segment with that focus or asking galleries to do so. “These things take years, or even decades, to absorb, understand and interpret; and we do not want to put any pressure on the artists or sensationalize the subject,” says Carver. However, the sixth Global Art Forum on ‘The Medium of Media’ will certainly address this subject. The Forum, to be held in Doha and Dubai, has been extended to six days this year, and under the directorship of writer, curator and critic Shumon Basar it will contemplate the multiple meanings of the term ‘media’, both within the art world and in reference to the world of publishing and reportage.

remix qatar Architecture in design: A study for a Dubai cimmune, architectural model, by Rami Farook.

rt Dubai has invited over 50 speakers from various fields (many speaking in this region for the first time). Prominent names include LACMA director Michael Govan, Hans Ulrich Obrist from the Serpentine Gallery, novelist and artist Douglas Coupland, art market reporter Georgina Adam, film producer Anna Lena Vaney, artists Wael Shawky, Shezad Dawood and Michael Rakowitz, curators Jack Persekian and Nat Muller, Demotix founder Turi Munthe, social commentators Sultan Suood Al Qasimi and Yasmine El Rashidi, blogger Hind Mezaina and filmmaker Sophie Fiennes. The travelling forum The Forum will be hosted by the Qatar Museums Authority at Mathaf on March 18 and 19. It will then move to Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai from March 21 to 24, in collaboration with the Dubai Culture and Arts Authority. The agenda for Doha includes discussions on the

relationship between newsmakers and history-making in the Arab world and the increasing trend of artists using multiple media and feature film making. In Dubai, the eclectic mix of subjects includes Marshall McLuhan’s legacy; the Beatles’ last ever concert; the past and future of ‘Net Art’; how news shapes art and financial markets; the Crusades told through the medium of puppetry, archiving Emirati TV and much more. The Forum will also feature commissioned projects, publications and long-term initiatives such as a series of publications titled ‘Some Medium Stories’, edited by Michael Vazquez, Qatari artist-writer Sophia Al-Maria’s ‘Dictionary of the Mediatized Gulf ’, and a media archiving blog by Mariam Wissam Al Dabbagh. Art Dubai is also collaborating with Mathaf on an interactive Arabic Art Glossary, led by curator Lara Khaldi, and an Artist’s Residency at Al Jazeera. Basar describes this edition of the Forum as “a media production about media, featuring an array of media formats - live, pre-

recorded, ongoing - and regional and international voices from different fields". Other Forum initiatives include Forum Fellows, which invites young writers from the Middle East and Asia to interact with the themes, personalities and subtexts of the fair, and Terrace Talks, which focuses on the relationship between the Gulf and wider Asia. In the absence of public art museums and art institutions in Dubai, Art Dubai has been cognizant of the need to foster an understanding and appreciation of art within the local community - both as a social responsibility and to ensure its own growth. It has done this through talks, workshops and internships for UAE residents of all ages. This year the Art Week Education Program has been expanded to include a series of free public seminars which began in December. The series kicked off with a talk on ‘Gallery Management’, where three gallery owners shared their experiences of running a gallery in Dubai. Other topics included

Contemporary Design and the Not-for-Profit Sector. The seminars are aimed at art students and young people looking for a career in art, design, event management or communications, but are attracting people from all walks of life. Art Dubai’s internship program is also more structured this year. A few interns are already working at the Art Dubai office on three-month internships designed to give them handson experience of every aspect of managing an art fair. The interns range from art, management and journalism graduates looking for experience in their chosen field, to an established artist, who sees it as an opportunity to extend his network and understand the behind-the-scenes working of the art world. Art Dubai has also recruited over 70 interns to assist on-site at the fair. Another new initiative is an artists’ residency program (in collaboration with London-based Delfina Foundation, Dubai Culture and Tashkeel) designed to encourage interaction between Emirati and international artists. Three Emirati and three international artists have been selected for a three-month residency based in the historic Bastakiya quarter of Dubai, and they will do open studios during Art

Week. Also a curator’s residency, supported by ArtAsiaPacific has given London-based Alexandra MacGilp an opportunity to research and develop ideas for future projects that engage with this region. Other projects include site-specific commissions by local and international artists, city-wide radio programs, a new Performance Night and film and video screenings. Carlos Celdran from the Philippines and Turkish artist Koken Ergun are in charge of conducting the performative artists’ tours - a very popular part of Art Dubai that combines entertainment with a unique perspective on the fair’s format and economy. UAE-based artists and designers have been invited to showcase their talent at the DXB store, a museum-style not-for-profit outlet featuring limited edition art and design objects made in the UAE. A much-awaited event at Art Dubai is the unveiling of the work created by the winners of the Abraaj Capital Art Prize on the opening night of the fair. Established in 2008 by alternative asset manager Abraaj Capital, this is the only prize meant specifically for artists from the Middle East, North Africa and South Asia region (MENASA). It is also unique in that it selects artists on the basis of a proposal rather than completed artworks. The generous prize money of $120,000 for each artist gives them the opportunity to break new ground and realize ambitious big projects. After the unveiling at Art Dubai, the works become part of the Abraaj Capital Collection and are showcased around the world. This year’s winners are Palestinian artist Taysir Batniji, Egyptian artist Wael Shawky, Raed Yassin from Lebanon, Risham Syed from Pakistan and Lebanese duo Joana Hadjithomas and Khalil Joreige. They have been working with Dutch curator Nat Muller on projects that are a closely guarded secret till the unveiling. “The aim of this prize is to empower potential and give often-underrepresented artists from this region the resources to further develop their talent. Working with an internationally renowned curator allows them to tap the latest trends, while the prize gives them a global platform to showcase their work and their region. We have an outstanding group of winners this year and look forward to seeing how they collaborate with our guest curator,” says Savita Apte, chair of the Prize. This is Cartier’s first year as a sponsor of Art Dubai, and it will host an ‘art exhibition’ of its exquisite jewelry. It is reportedly creating a

garden-themed exhibition to showcase a range of flora- and fauna-inspired jewelry, including a special commissioned piece by artist Beatriz Milhazes. Looking back, Carver is proud of what Art Dubai has achieved so far. “The UAE has always had a vibrant cultural scene, but Art Dubai has helped to focus attention on it. For many young people here, Art Dubai’s first edition in 2007 was their first-ever experience of an art fair. But as is typical of Dubai, things move quickly and many of these youngsters are now collectors, art publishers and curators. Similarly, local galleries whose first participation in an art fair was at Art Dubai are now invited to participate in international fairs, which in turn

‘For many young people here, Art Dubai's first edition in 2007 was their first-ever experience of an art fair. But as is typical of Dubai, things move quickly... has given Emirati and Middle Eastern artists global exposure. Also, more international museums and galleries are curating shows of contemporary Middle Eastern art and even solo artists, such as the retrospective of Hassan Sharif, pioneer of contemporary Emirati art, organized in New York recently by Alexander Gray Associates.” When asked about the impact of Abu Dhabi Art, she diplomatically says that the two fairs do not compete but complement each other. She also looks positively at the new fair in India, because it has encouraged many new galleries and art professionals to come to Art Dubai en route to India. As for the biggest challenge of managing Art Dubai, “having a cut-off point for accepting the new ideas that my amazing team keeps coming up with is a big problem,” she complains. For more information on Art Dubai visit www.artdubai.ae.

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art emotionS and

memories The whitewashed walls of the Qatar Photographic Society building come alive with the vibrant artworks of emerging Qatari artists. By Cassey Oliveira

Challenge By Eman AL-Haidous Eman Al-Haidous’s oil painting is rightly titled 'Challenge' as the bird takes on the powerful spurts of wind majestically. “I have always loved painting nature’s bounty. I am inspired by things around me, by what nature has to offer—the sea, flowers, beautiful landscapes, birds—this falcon. “The only time you come across real feelings is when you sit down to draw a face. The lines, angles and features of the face have always fascinated me.” “I wish to produce the largest wall painting here at Katara Cultural Village and enter the Guinness book of World Records,” she says.

‫“التحدي” للفنانة إيمان الهيدوس‬

‫ وهي‬،»‫�أطلقت �إميان الهيدو�س على لوحتها الزيتية ا�سم «التحدي‬ ‫ وهو يقف ب�صورة مهيبة يف‬،‫حمقة يف ذلك �إذ ت�صور اللوحة �صقرا‬ ‫ “لقد كنت دائما �أحب ر�سم‬:‫ وعن ذلك تقول‬،‫وجه العوا�صف الهوجاء‬ ‫ �إذ تلهمني الأ�شياء من حويل وما تقدمه الطبيعة من‬،‫�سخاء الطبيعة‬ ‫ واملرة‬.‫ وطيور مثل هذا ال�صقر‬،‫ ومناظر طبيعية جميلة‬،‫ وزهور‬،‫بحر‬ ‫أح�س فيها بامل�شاعر احلقيقية هي عندما �أجل�س لأر�سم‬ ّ � ‫الوحيدة التي‬ ."‫ فخطوط وزوايا ومالمح الوجه ت�سحرين دائما‬.‫وجها‬ ‫ "�أود �أن �أر�سم �أكرب لوحة جدارية يف قرية كتارا‬:‫و�أ�ضافت قائلة‬ ."‫الثقافية لأدخل مو�سوعة غيني�س‬

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Freij Al Badr By Hassan Bu Jassoum Nostalgia runs high as you take a look at Hassan Bu Jassoum’s sketches. His work takes you back in time to the old neighborhoods of the city. One of his sketches (pictured) is that of an old town called Freij Al Badr. Having spent his childhood there, his sketch is a culmination of old memories which he still holds dear. “My drawings are a collage of old stories—some of which I have been part of. “My forte is culture and heritage. I am inspired by the cultural aspects of the city, and my drawings are a reflection of that.” Hassan is one of the oldest artists to teach at the Doha Youth Center, and for this exhibition he was accompanied by his students.

‫“فريج البدر” للفنان حسن بو جسوم‬

‫ حيث ي�أخذك عمله �إىل‬،‫تن�ضح ر�سومات ح�سن بوج�سوم باحلنني‬ ‫ واللوحة املبينة هنا هي لبلدة قدمية‬.‫الأحياء القدمية يف املدينة‬ ‫ حيث ُيعترب ر�سمه لها تتويجا‬،‫تدعى فريج البدر ق�ضى طفولته فيها‬ ‫ "�إن ر�سوماتي هي جمموعة‬:‫ �إذ يقول‬،‫لذكريات قدمية عزيزة عليه‬ ."‫ بع�ضها جزء مني‬،‫ق�ص�ص قدمية‬ ‫ �إذ تلهمني‬،‫ "�إن نقطة قوتي هي الثقافة والرتاث‬:‫وم�ضى قائال‬ ."‫ ور�سوماتي هي انعكا�س لذلك‬،‫اجلوانب الثقافية للمدينة‬ ،‫يدر�سون يف مركز �شباب الدوحة‬ ّ ‫وح�سن هو من �أقدم الفنانني الذين‬ .‫وقد �شاركه طالبه يف هذا املعر�ض‬

Landscape By Faisal Al-Abdullah Faisal Al-Abdullah doesn’t need a brush. Just play the violin and his fingers do the trick. “It was pure coincidence I realized that the sound of the violin dictates my hand movements,” he says. This rather unusual painting technique involves a brilliant fifteen-minute show with his fingers performing a saltation in sync with the music that plays in the background, as Faisal splashes and rubs acrylic paint onto a blank canvas. “When it’s done, I add details with a brush or a knife.” The colors that he chooses again depend on the mood of the movements. “For this painting (pictured) I picked the color blue, and when the music stopped I realized that blue represents the sea. I just had to fill in more details.”

‫“مشهد طبيعي” للفنان فيصل العبد اهلل‬

‫ال يحتاج في�صل العبد اهلل �إىل فر�شاة �إذ مبجرد �سماعه ل�صوت الكمان ف�إن �أ�صابعه تبد�أ‬ ."‫أدركت مبح�ض امل�صادفة �أن �صوت الكمان ميلي حركات يدي‬ ُ � ‫ "لقد‬:‫ يقول في�صل‬.‫بالر�سم‬ ‫ دقيقة حتركت فيها �أ�صابعه ب�صورة‬15 ‫وقام ب�إظهار هذه التقنية غري العادية بالر�سم ملدة‬ ‫ وهو مي�سح ويوزع �ألوان الأكريليك‬،‫متزامنة مع املو�سيقى التي كانت ت�صدح يف اخللفية‬ ‫ �أ�ضيف عليها التفا�صيل‬،‫ "عندما تنتهي اللوحة‬:‫ و�أ�ضاف‬.‫ب�أ�صابعه على قما�ش �أبي�ض‬ ."‫بوا�سطة فر�شاة �أو �سكني‬ ‫ "للح�صول على‬:‫ حيث يقول‬،‫وتعتمد الألوان التي يختارها على احلالة املزاجية للحركات‬ ‫أدركت‬ ‫ وعندما‬،‫هذه اللوحة (املبينة يف ال�صورة) اخرتت اللون الأزرق‬ ُ � ‫توقفت املو�سيقى‬ ْ ‫ لذا فكل ما كان علي فعله هو فقط ملء اللوحة باملزيد من‬،‫�أن اللون الأزرق ميثل البحر‬ ."‫التفا�صيل‬

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Tears By Maryam Al-Sheeb Maryam Al-Sheeb’s painting is laced with melancholy. “'Tears' is about a person who is consumed by grief and cuts his heart out,” she explains while staring at the human silhouette on the canvas. “It’s usually human emotions that I like to interpret through my paintings. What comes to my mind, I put it out there.” Before this exhibition, Maryam was on a 17-year break from the art scene. “I got married, had kids. With this symposium, I am finally back at painting.”

‫“الدموع” للفنانة مريم الشيب‬

‫ تقول مرمي وهي حتدق‬.‫يغلب على لوحة الفنانة مرمي ال�شيب احلزن‬ ‫ "يدور مو�ضوع لوحتي حول �شخ�ص غارق باحلزن الذي‬:‫بلوحتها‬ ‫ وعادة ما �أحب تف�سري العواطف الب�رشية من خالل‬،‫يفطر ف�ؤاده‬ ."‫ حيث �أر�سم ما يتبادر �إىل ذهني‬،‫لوحاتي‬ .‫ �سنة‬17 ‫وقبل هذا املعر�ض انقطعت مرمي عن امل�شهد الفني ملدة‬ ‫عدت للر�سم مرة‬ ‫تزوجت‬ ‫ "لقد‬:‫وعن ذلك تقول‬ ُ ‫ لكنني‬،‫ورزقت ب�أطفال‬ ُ ُ ."‫�أخرى من خالل هذا املعر�ض‬

‫الفـــــن‬ ‫والعواطـــــــف‬ ‫والذكريـــــــات‬ ‫دبّت الحياة في الجدران البيضاء لمبنى‬ ‫الجمعية القطرية للتصوير الضوئي من‬ ‫خالل األعمال الفنية النابضة بالحياة لـ ‪18‬‬ ‫فنانا قطريا ناشئا التي عرضت عليها‪.‬‬ ‫بقلم كاسي أوليفيرا‬

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Who I am In a land mired with feminist issues, Saudi artist Manal Al-Dowayan, through her multimedia work, chooses to look at challenges through rose-tinted glasses, writes Cassey Oliveira.

here’s a three-meter-long rosary of prayer beads suspended from the ceiling at Katara Gallery. Each bead bears a name in Arabic—the names of about 300 Saudi women. This bead project titled 'Esmi - My Name' is one of the many works that artist Manal Al-Dowayan brought along for her first solo exhibition in the city. The project 'Esmi' stems from a cultural Saudi taboo where it’s considered offensive when a man utters the names of the women in his life. Considering your name to be an integral part of your identity, Manal sent out a message on her website inviting women from all over Saudi Arabia to participate in this one-of-a-kind community project.

“And 300 women got back. They just didn’t want to leave even when it was done. They wanted to stay back as they enjoyed being a part of this project,” says Manal. Women have always been a source of inspiration for Manal, especially Saudi women, she stresses. “I look around and I am inspired by their beauty, strength, intelligence and hope. These women don’t give up. They really believe in the future and fight for it with a passion.” And Manal hopes for change... Another of her collection, the 'I Am' series, features a variety of Saudi Arabian women portraying different career roles. Each photograph has a piece of traditional jewelry placed in an obstructive and unnatural way which exemplifies the roles of societal traditions that impede the progression of Saudi women. “These women might seem like subjects and you

might think the work is about them, but it’s not. It’s the idea I want to convey. Women who participate in my projects use me as a platform to express themselves, but in reality I use them as a platform to voice my experiences.” Women from the conservative Saudi society aren’t intimidated to play muse for Manal. “I thought they would be hesitant,” she says. “Women come to me asking about my next project, and if I need anybody. They’d want to participate or make their daughters or sisters or friends participate.” And for every veiled woman who turns up at her studio, she’s just as pleased to capture their eyes, if not the face. “I find the eyes the windows to the soul. And if you can capture the eyes, you can capture the person. It’s not the essence of the character, but that of the concept which matters.” Manal prefers her works to be in black and white. Not an ounce of color in any of her collections. “I feel when an idea is complex and has many layers to it, black and white allows it to be clearer. The moment you add color, it distracts. It makes you look at the colors and not absorb the idea that is brought across. “My eyes have got so used to this that I cannot see beauty in anything else.”

Finding acceptance rom her Doha visit, Manal learnt about the museums and cultural centers thriving in the city, quite unlike what Saudi Arabia offers. “Doha has museums, exhibitions, galleries and a cultural village—there’s a huge support for artists here. But in Saudi, everything’s done secretly.” However, she does find a thirst for art. “I did a show in Jeddah recently, and 800 people attended. This large turnout suggests there is an interest for art in the community despite people not having galleries or museums to visit.” Art is only beginning to be appreciated back home, and she is happy to found a niche. “I feel proud when I speak to young Saudi women and they say they know all about my work.” These are women who wouldn’t normally turn up for exhibitions, but follow Manal online. “It’s interesting that these women actually sit down to research about my work on the Internet.” The press, she says, covers her exhibitions completely without any censorship. “There is acceptance.” However, she mentions that the exhibitions are segregated for men and women, which can be disadvantageous. “It’s difficult for me to interact with my male audience. There’s something about integration of men and women during an art show that creates a good conversation.” Photography as such is perceived as intrusive in her society, she says, and a woman going out on the streets with a camera is further frowned upon. “So all my projects have to be carefully planned and executed.” Even for the 'And We Had No Shared Dreams' collection, which

required a lot of driving in and out of the city to capture moments, it wasn’t her sitting behind the wheel. “It was what I call drive-by shooting. Since women can’t drive in Saudi, I had to plead with my driver to go back and forth just to get the angle right.” From the many photographs under the aforementioned series, she points out a few which have words in Arabic sprawled over them. “I like highlighting words in neon light. The Arabic language is like a living creature, it changes with time. Each word has multiple meanings to it.” Her work seems to be even more creative with all the restrictions that society imposes on an artist. But she turns it all around to create a work of art... “A creative person knows how to take a challenge and turn it into an opportunity,” she says. A fleeting second glance at the photographs lining the walls of the Katara Gallery, and you realize these women are not subjects after all. They are pages from the artist’s life, an honest expression of her opinion about societal norms. “My art is a reflection of who I am,” she concludes.

‫�إذا كنت بحاجة �إىل �أي �شخ�ص‪ .‬فقد كن يرغنب‬ ‫يف امل�شاركة‪� ،‬أو يجعلن بناتهن �أو �أخواتهن �أو‬ ‫�صديقاتهن ي�شاركن"‪.‬‬ ‫وكانت منال تقوم بالتقاط �صورة لعيون �أو وجه‬ ‫كل امر�أة حمجبة دخلت الأ�ستوديو اخلا�ص بها‪.‬‬ ‫تقول منال‪�" :‬إن العيون هي نوافذ الروح‪ .‬ف�إذا‬ ‫ا�ستطاع املرء ت�صوير العيون‪ ،‬ف�إنه يكون بذلك قد‬ ‫التقط �صورة لل�شخ�ص‪ .‬فالعيون ال ت�شكل جوهر‬ ‫�شخ�صية‪ ،‬لكن هذا املفهوم هو ما يهم"‪.‬‬ ‫وتف�ضل منال �أن تكون �أعمالها باللونني الأبي�ض‬ ‫والأ�سود �إذ ال توجد �أية �ألوان يف جمموعاتها‪.‬‬ ‫و�أ�ضافت‪�" :‬أ�شعر �أنه عندما تكون الفكرة املعقدة‬ ‫وذات عدة طبقات ف�إن اللونني الأبي�ض والأ�سود‬ ‫يتيحان لها �أن تكون �أكرث و�ضوحا �إذ مبجرد �إ�ضافة‬ ‫اللون ف�إن الفكرة تت�شتت‪ ،‬لأن ذلك يجعل املرء ينظر‬ ‫�إىل الألوان وال يحاول ا�ستيعاب الفكرة التي هي‬ ‫الأ�سا�س‪ .‬لقد اعتادت عيناي على ذلك لدرجة �أنني ال‬ ‫�أ�ستطيع �أن �أرى اجلمال يف �أي �شيء �آخر"‪.‬‬

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‫البحث عن القبول‬

‫فت منال من خالل زيارتها للدوحة على‬ ‫تعر ْ‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املتاحف واملراكز الثقافية املزدهرة يف املدينة‪،‬‬ ‫وذلك على عك�س ما تقدمه ال�سعودية �إذ تقول‪:‬‬ ‫"يوجد يف الدوحة املتاحف واملعار�ض و�صاالت‬ ‫العر�ض وقرية ثقافية‪ ،‬لذا ثمة دعم كبري للفنانني‬ ‫هنا‪ .‬لكن يف ال�سعودية كل �شيء يتم �رسا"‪.‬‬ ‫غري �أنها وجدت �أن هنالك تعط�ش للفن‪ .‬تقول منال‪:‬‬ ‫"لقد �أقمت معر�ضا يف مدينة جدة م�ؤخرا ح�رضه‬ ‫‪� 800‬شخ�ص‪ .‬ويدل هذا الإقبال الكبري على وجود اهتمام بالفن من قبل‬ ‫املجتمع على الرغم من عدم وجود �أية �صاالت عر�ض �أو متاحف ميكن‬ ‫زيارتها"‪.‬‬ ‫وقد بد�أ الفن يالقي التقدير يف وطنها‪ ،‬حيث �أعربت عن �سعادتها لذلك‪،‬‬ ‫م�ضيفة‪�" :‬أ�شعر بالفخر عندما �أحتدث �إىل ال�شابات ال�سعوديات لأنهن‬ ‫يخربنني �أنهن يعرفن كل �شيء عن عملي"‪ .‬ولي�س مبقدور ه�ؤالء الن�سوة‬ ‫عادة �أن ي�صلن �إىل املعار�ض‪ ،‬لذا ف�إنهن يتابعن منال عرب الإنرتنت �إذ تقول‪:‬‬ ‫"من املثري لالهتمام �أن ه�ؤالء الن�ساء يبحثن با�ستمرار عن عملي على �شبكة‬ ‫الإنرتنت"‪ .‬و�أكدت منال �أن ال�صحافة تغطي معار�ضها من دون �أية رقابة‪،‬‬ ‫م�ستطردة‪« :‬ثمة قبول»‪ .‬غري �أنه يوجد ف�صل يف املعار�ض بني الرجال‬ ‫والن�ساء قالت عنه �إنه غري مالئم‪ ،‬م�ضيفة‪" :‬من ال�صعب بالن�سبة يل التفاعل‬ ‫مع جمهور الذكور‪ .‬ففي املعر�ض الفني هنالك �شيء حول التكامل بني‬ ‫الرجال والن�ساء ي�شجع على احلوار"‪.‬‬ ‫ويعترب جمتمعها الت�صوير الفوتوغرايف مبثابة تطفل‪ ،‬كما تقول‪ ،‬وما يثري‬ ‫االمتعا�ض �أكرث هو خروج املر�أة �إىل ال�شوارع مع الكامريا‪ .‬تقول منال‪" :‬لذا‬ ‫ينبغي �أن يتم تخطيط وتنفيذ كل م�شاريعي بعناية"‪.‬‬

‫وحتى بالن�سبة ل�سل�سلتها «ومل تكن لدينا �أحالم م�شرتكة» التي تتطلب الكثري‬ ‫من قيادة ال�سيارة داخل وخارج املدينة اللتقاط حلظات معينة مل تكن هي‬ ‫من يقود ال�سيارة‪ .‬تقول م�ضيفة‪�" :‬إن ذلك ما �أ�سميه التقاط ال�صور �أثناء �سري‬ ‫ا�ضطررت �إىل �أن‬ ‫ال�سيارة �إذ ال ي�سمح للمر�أة بقيادة ال�سيارة يف ال�سعودية‪ ،‬لذا‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫�أترجى �سائقي كي يروح ويجيء بال�سيارة من �أجل �أن �أح�صل على الزاوية‬ ‫املنا�سبة"‪.‬‬ ‫و�أ�شارت �إىل بع�ض الكلمات العربية يف العديد من ال�صور الفوتوغرافية يف هذه‬ ‫ال�سل�سلة املذكورة �آنفا قائلة‪�" :‬أحب �أن �أ�سلط ال�ضوء على الكلمات من خالل‬ ‫�ضوء النيون‪ .‬فاللغة العربية هي كالكائن احلي تتغري مبرور الوقت‪ ،‬ولكل كلمة‬ ‫معان متعددة"‪.‬‬ ‫ٍ‬ ‫ويبدو عملها �أكرث �إبداعا بالرغم من القيود التي يفر�ضها املجتمع على الفنان‪،‬‬ ‫لكنها ا�ستغلت كل ذلك لإبداع عمل فني‪� ،‬إذ تقول‪" :‬يعرف املبدع كيف يواجه‬ ‫ويحوله �إىل فر�صة"‪.‬‬ ‫التحدي‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫عندما تلقي عزيزي القارئ نظرة على ال�صور الفوتوغرافية املعرو�ضة على‬ ‫جدران معر�ض كتارا ف�سوف تدرك �أن �أولئك الن�سوة ل�سن مو�ضوعات لهذه‬ ‫ال�صور و�إمنا هن �صفحات من حياة هذه الفنانة‪ ،‬وتعبري �صادق عن ر�أيها حول‬ ‫املعايري االجتماعية‪ .‬وختمت حديثها قائلة‪�" :‬إن فني هو انعكا�س ل�شخ�صيتي"‪.‬‬ ‫‪60‬‬

‫من أنا‬ ‫كتبت أوليفيرا كاسي أنه رغم احتدام‬ ‫قضايا حقوق المرأة في السعودية‪ ،‬فقد‬ ‫اختارت الفنانة السعودية منال الضويان‬ ‫من خالل عملها بالوسائط المتعددة‬ ‫النظر إلى تلك التحديات من خالل منظار‬ ‫وردي‪.‬‬

‫م�سبحة بطول ثالثة �أمتار‪ ،‬من ال�سقف‬ ‫يف معر�ض كتارا‪ ،‬حتمل حباتها �أ�سماء‬ ‫حلوايل ‪ 300‬امر�أة �سعودية‪ .‬وهذا‬ ‫امل�رشوع هو بعنوان «ا�سمي» وهو �أحد‬ ‫الأعمال العديدة التي جلب ْتها الفنانة‬ ‫منال ال�ضويان ملعر�ضها الفردي الأول يف الدوحة‪.‬‬ ‫وينبع م�رشوع «ا�سمي» من املحرمات الثقافية ال�سعودية‬ ‫التي ُيعترب فيها من غري الالئق �أن يقول الرجل �أ�سماء الن�ساء‬ ‫املوجودات يف حياته‪ ،‬ومبا �أن ا�سم املرء هو جزء ال يتجز�أ‬ ‫ن�رشت منال من خالل موقعها على‬ ‫من هويته اخلا�صة‪ ،‬فقد‬ ‫ْ‬ ‫الإنرتنت ر�سالة دعت فيها الن�ساء من كافة �أرجاء اململكة‬ ‫العربية ال�سعودية للم�شاركة يف هذا امل�رشوع املجتمعي‬ ‫"�شاركت يف‬ ‫الفريد من نوعه‪ ،‬وعن ذلك امل�رشوع تقول‪:‬‬ ‫ْ‬ ‫امل�رشوع ‪ 300‬امر�أة‪ ،‬مل يرغنب يف املغادرة‪ ،‬حتى بعد‬ ‫انتهائه‪ ،‬فقد �أردن �أن يبقني معي لأنهن ا�ستمتعن بامل�شاركة‬ ‫يف هذا امل�رشوع"‪.‬‬ ‫و�أكدت منال �أن املر�أة �شكلت م�صدرا لإلهامها‪ ،‬وخا�صة‬

‫تتدلى‬

‫‪61‬‬

‫ال�سعوديات‪ ،‬م�ضيفة‪" :‬عندما �أنظر حويل ف�إن جمالهن‬ ‫وقوتهن وذكاءهن و�أملهن ي�شكل م�صدر �إلهام يل‪ .‬فه�ؤالء‬ ‫الن�سوة ال ي�ست�سلمن ب�سبب �إميانهن بامل�ستقبل الذي يكافحن‬ ‫لأجله ب�شغف"‪ .‬لذا ت�أمل منال بح�صول التغيري‪...‬‬ ‫و �أي�ضا من جمموعتها �سل�سلة «�أنا» التي ت�صور جمموعة‬ ‫متنوعة من الن�ساء ال�سعوديات‪ ،‬وهن يلعنب خمتلف الأدوار‬ ‫الوظيفية‪ .‬ففي كل �صورة قطعة من املجوهرات التقليدية‪،‬‬ ‫و�ضعت بطريقة معيقة‪ ،‬وغري طبيعية جت�سيدا لدور التقاليد‬ ‫املجتمعية التي تعرقل تقدم املر�أة ال�سعودية‪.‬‬ ‫تقول منال‪" :‬قد تبدو ه�ؤالء الن�سوة كموا�ضيع �إذ يعتقد املرء‬ ‫�أن هذا العمل يتحدث عنهن لكن هذا لي�س هو الواقع‪� .‬إنها‬ ‫فكرة �أريد �أن �أنقلها للجميع‪ .‬فالن�ساء اللواتي �شاركنني يف‬ ‫م�شاريعي ا�ستخدمنني كمنرب للتعبري عن �أنف�سهن‪ ،‬لكنني يف‬ ‫الواقع ا�ستخدمتهن كمنرب للتعبري عن جتربتي"‪.‬‬ ‫وتخاف الن�ساء يف املجتمع ال�سعودي املحافظ �أن يلعنب دور‬ ‫"اعتقدت �أنهن �سي�شعرن بالرتدد‪،‬‬ ‫امللهم ملنال‪ ،‬حيث تقول‪:‬‬ ‫ُ‬ ‫لكن كن ي�أتني يل لي�س�ألنني عن م�رشوعي املقبل‪ ،‬وعما‬

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The Starfish was inspired by the artist's interest in the famous book 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea and is part of a one-off collection of jewels. Sevan Bicakci at his workshop where he and his team work on the ever growing collection where all the pieces are unique and one of a kind.

Sevan Bicakci:

Crafting stories from Istanbul By DEBRINA ALIYAH dreamer, creator, storyteller, visionary, craftsman and, finally, a jeweler. That is Sevan Bicakci, and before you put on a piece of his jewelry, put on your imaginative cap and enter the magical realm of his inspirations that will take you through the romance and rich history of Istanbul and beyond. The age-old tales of Ottoman pirates and sultans, the stunning architecture of the Pantokrator church, the legends of Greek gods and the awe-inspiring Turkish skies are vividly recreated in each unique piece of his work. One can spend hours admiring the delicate and precise details of the collection while immersing in the stories behind the creation of each masterpiece. Beyond the artistry and fine craftsmanship of every gemstone and metal lies the window to the soul of the man himself. Bicakci grew up surrounded by the resonant facets of history and culture of the captivating

A 62

city of Istanbul. A convergence of two continents, the melting pot of influences is the vital link of inspiration in his works, capturing the eras of the country from one dynasty to another and from mythological beliefs to monolithic religions. As a young boy, his mind had already envisioned the world from a multitude of perspectives and was eager to bring his illusions to life. At the tender age of 12, he interned at a local jewelry shop only to learn the constant animosity between the process of creative design and physical production. An experimental person by nature, he found that he could not fulfill his creative ventures with traditional goldsmithing techniques, and neither was the industry ready to take on his wildly fanciful designs. After decades of working in the system, Sevan finally decided to spread his wings and take flight on what would become a life-changing journey, not only for him but also for the world of haute jewelry. Frustration and the need to prove the world

The Camel features an intaglio method of reverse crafting the camel design in the stone and inspired by the deserts of the Middle East region.

The Fisher King is crafted using gold, yellow, pink and brown diamonds as well as a South Sea Pearl as the centrepiece.

wrong were what drove him to begin creating his own collection, and in 2001 he began to bring his own visions to life. He experimented and created new production techniques just so he could achieve the idea of what he wanted. "A year later, we had about 50 rings in our collection, produced on borrowed capital, and it was a tumultuous ride for the next three years," said Emre Dilaver, Creative Director of the brand. Using an extremely complicated and resource-driven technique called 'intaglio', where the gemstones are reverse hand-carved, Bicakci hollowed out gemstones to create his desired designs from inside the stones. The process is difficult as the craftsman cannot see from the surface what is happening inside the gems, and on average they have to work on about eight pieces of stone before achieving the desired outcome. Within these stones, Bicakci brought to life the sights and sounds of Istanbul, from swans to mosques, creating jewelry pieces that carry the story and soul of the city. His designs were cutting-edge, the process he used was not familiar to the traditional Turkish jewelers, and he had a hard time convincing anyone to help sell his pieces. "It was a tough time for us, battling against a traditional structure. The jewelers thought our pieces were too big and too ornate to be worn, but the media loved us. The media recognized that here was a man who wanted to show the world the essence and spirit of the vibrant environment that surrounds us," explained Dilaver. In 2005 the turning point came for the misunderstood creative artist and his team. They received an inaugural international order from Barneys New York and were invited to participate in the annual Las Vegas Couture Jewelry Collection and Conference. It was also an important personal milestone for the mildly shy Bicakci as it was his first time out of Turkey. At the conference, one of his designs won the coveted Couture Jewelry Design Award. His designs and their stories resonated loudly to the world and he has won the same award five times since. From odds and ends Bicakci currently has approximately one hundred people

The Birth of Athena is inspired by the Greek goddess Athena and depicted in this piece is the axe of Hephaestus. In the Greek legends, Athena was born out of Zeus' head by Hephaestus, who split his skull with his axe.

working in his workshop and he continues to collaborate with craftsmen who have interesting materials to offer. Besides working with conventional jewelry components, he has also incorporated intriguing materials into his pieces including camel bones, sand and mosaic tiles. The significance of these materials is in tandem with the inspirations behind the pieces. For example, sand was inserted into a gemstone as a base for the carving of a camel to rest on. From his difficult and humble beginnings, Bicakci now has the world as his stage to unleash his creative intellect. His undying love for his home city provokes his continuous work in spinning the webs of cultural stories and legends into his masterpieces, making him an unofficial ambassador of Istanbul to the world. Avid collectors began snapping up his pieces both as works of art and as jewelry. Celebrated personalities including Brooke Shields, Lady Gaga, Catherine Zeta Jones, Elizabeth Hurley, Mariah Carey and Celine Dion have been seen wearing his artwork. On the international fashion stage, he became a cult haute jeweler who was recognizable only to the connoisseurs. He had reinvented the wheel of haute jewelry from an eclectic perspective that no one had even dreamt of before. "The view on jewelry has changed both in Istanbul and around the world because of Bicakci's whimsical imagination and drive to achieve the impossible," added Dilaver. "Our work is extremely time-consuming and cultivated and it took a long time before people understood what we do. It is all about telling stories and craftsmanship. Every week, we brainstorm and share our experience and see if we can be inspired from any of the concepts, and we move on from there. "You can find our collection in Dubai, Harrods of London, Barneys New York, a gallery in Puerto Rico, Harvey Nichols and our stores in W Istanbul. Our customers are a wellconnected network of enthusiasts who truly understand and appreciate the art thanks to some of our retailers who continuously educate customers in the stories behind each piece of work. An interesting thing to note is that somehow people who buy Sevanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pieces will eventually find their way to Istanbul to meet the man himself."

‫السماء‬

‫ا�ستوحيت �أزرار �أكمام القمي�ص‬ ‫من رق�ص الدراوي�ش‪ ،‬وهو‬ ‫طريقة �صوفية للتعبري عن‬ ‫احلب وتقريب امل�سافة بني‬ ‫املخلوق واخلالق‪ .‬وهذه‬ ‫الفل�سفة هي ذات طابع عاملي‪،‬‬ ‫ت�ستند �إىل املحبة‪ ،‬وتهدف �إىل‬ ‫�أن يحب املرء نف�سه واجلميع‪.‬‬ ‫وقد مت نحت الدراوي�ش على‬ ‫هذه الإزار امل�صنوعة من‬ ‫قوقعة ال�سلحفاة با�ستخدام‬ ‫تقنيات خا�صة للتطعيم‪.‬‬

‫الرخاء‬

‫ُيعترب الرمان يف ثقافات تركيا رمزا للرخاء واخل�صوبة والوفرة وح�سن‬ ‫احلظ كما هي احلال يف الأ�ساطري اليونانية‪ .‬وقد ُنق�ش على حجري‬ ‫�سيرتين يف هذا اخلامت عبارة «بركاتك يا رب» بني ثمرتي رمان‬ ‫منقو�شتني يدويا وب�صورة معكو�سة‪.‬‬

‫عازفة العود‬

‫ويتو�سط هذا اخلامت حجر �سرتين نق�ش عليه يدويا‬ ‫وب�صورة معكو�سة �صورة لعازفة �آلة العود املو�سيقية‪،‬‬ ‫تبت عليه باملا�س عبارة «النهار والليل»‪ .‬وقد‬ ‫وكُ ْ‬ ‫ا�ستلهمت عازفة العود من �أقدم ال�سجالت الت�صويرية‬ ‫لآلة العود التي يعود تاريخها �إىل فرتة ح�ضارة ما بني‬ ‫النهرين اجلنوبية منذ �أكرث من ‪� 5‬آالف عام واملوجودة‬ ‫حاليا يف املتحف الربيطاين‪ .‬وي�صور الر�سم �سيدة جتل�س‬ ‫القرف�صاء يف قارب وهي تعزف على العود بيدها اليمنى‪.‬‬ ‫وقد احتل العود مكانة بارزة يف املو�سيقى العثمانية يف‬ ‫الفرتة منذ ‪ 1718‬حتى ‪ ،1730‬وهي �أطول فرتة �سالم‬ ‫نعمت بها الدولة العثمانية التي امتدت طوال ‪� 600‬سنة‬ ‫ومتيزت بالرخاء والبهجة والرتفيه‪.‬‬

‫احلني ذاع �صيت ت�صاميمه وق�ص�صها يف العامل‪ ،‬وفاز‬ ‫باجلائزة نف�سها خم�س مرات‪.‬‬

‫االنطالقة‬ ‫يعمل يف ور�شة �سيفان حاليا ما يقرب من ‪100‬‬ ‫�شخ�ص‪ ،‬وهو يتعاون مع احلرفيني الذين لديهم قطع‬ ‫مثرية لالهتمام ويرغبون بعر�ضها‪ .‬وبالإ�ضافة �إىل‬ ‫عمله باملكونات التقليدية للمجوهرات‪� ،‬أدرج �أي�ضا مواد‬ ‫مثرية لالهتمام يف قطعه مثل عظام اجلمال‪ ،‬والرمل‪،‬‬ ‫وقطع املوزاييك‪ .‬ويتما�شى املغزى من هذه املواد مع‬ ‫الإلهام الكامن وراء هذه القطع‪ .‬فعلى �سبيل املثال‪،‬‬ ‫�أدخل الرمل يف الأحجار الكرمية كقاعدة لنحت اجلمل‬ ‫عليها‪.‬‬ ‫ومنذ بدايات �سيفان ال�صعبة واملتوا�ضعة‪ ،‬بات العامل‬ ‫�سيفان داخل هذه الأحجار الكرمية م�شاهد عديدة من‬ ‫منفتحا �أمامه لإطالق العنان لعقله املبدع فيه‪،‬‬ ‫ا�سطنبول‪ ،‬ابتداء من البجع وانتهاء بامل�ساجد‪ ،‬لي�صنع‬ ‫م�ستلهما من حبه اخلالد ملدينته الذي �ساعده يف ن�سج‬ ‫قطع جموهرات حتمل ق�صة وروح املدينة‪ .‬وتتميز‬ ‫الق�ص�ص‪ ،‬والأ�ساطري الثقافية يف روائعه‪ ،‬مما جعله‬ ‫ت�صاميمه ب�أنها متطورة وغري م�ألوفة لدى �صياغ‬ ‫�سفريا غري ر�سمي ال�سطنبول �إىل العامل‪ .‬وبد�أ هواة جمع‬ ‫املجوهرات الرتكية التقليدية‪ ،‬لذا فقد عانى �صعوبات‬ ‫القطع الثمينة املتعط�شون بالإقبال على �رشاء قطعه‬ ‫جمة يف �إقناع �أي �شخ�ص للم�ساعدة يف ت�سويق قطعه‪.‬‬ ‫ك�أعمال فنية وجموهرات‪ ،‬كما �شوهدت �شخ�صيات‬ ‫و�أو�ضح ديالفر‪" :‬لقد مررنا بفرتة �صعبة‪ ،‬حيث كنا‬ ‫�شهرية وهي تتزين ب�أعماله الفنية مثل بروك �شيلدز‪،‬‬ ‫نقاتل �ضد البنية التقليدية‪� ،‬إذ كان ال�صياغ يعتقدون‬ ‫وليدي غاغا‪ ،‬وكاثرين زيتا جونز‪ ،‬و�إليزابيث هرييل‪،‬‬ ‫�أن قطع جموهراتنا كبرية جدا ومزخرفة ب�صورة مبالغ‬ ‫وماريا كاري‪ ،‬و�سيلني ديون‪ .‬وا�شتهر ا�سمه يف عامل‬ ‫بها لدرجة �أنه ال ميكن التزين بها لكن و�سائل الإعالم‬ ‫املو�ضة ك�صائغ جموهرات راق ال يعرفه �إال النخبة‪ .‬فقد‬ ‫أح�س ْت و�سائل الإعالم ب�أن هذا الرجل يريد‬ ‫�أحبتنا‪ .‬فقد � ّ‬ ‫�أعاد �سيفان اخرتاع العجلة بالن�سبة للمجوهرات الراقية‬ ‫�أن يظهر للعامل جوهر وروح البيئة الناب�ضة باحلياة‬ ‫من منظور انتقائي مل يكن �أحد يحلم به من قبل‪.‬‬ ‫التي حتيط بنا"‪.‬‬ ‫و�أ�ضاف ديالفر‪" :‬لقد تغريت النظرة للمجوهرات يف‬ ‫ويف عام ‪ ،2005‬جاءت نقطة التحول للفنان املبدع‬ ‫ا�سطنبول والعامل ب�سبب خيال �سيفان الفريد الذي كان‬ ‫الذي �أ�سيء فهمه‪ ،‬حيث تلقى طلبا من بارنيز نيويورك‬ ‫يدفعه لتحقيق امل�ستحيل‪ .‬فعملنا راق جدا‪ ،‬ويتطلب‬ ‫دعي فيه �إىل امل�شاركة يف امل�ؤمتر ال�سنوي‪ ،‬وجمموعة‬ ‫�إجنازه وقتا طويال للغاية‪ ،‬لذا فقد احتاج النا�س �إىل‬ ‫ال�س فيغا�س للمجوهرات الراقية‪ .‬وقد كان ذلك �أي�ضا‬ ‫وقت طويل ليفهموا ما نقوم به‪� ،‬إذ �أن جوهر عملنا‬ ‫م ْعلما هاما و�شخ�صيا ل�سيفان اخلجول بطبعه الذي مل‬ ‫هو �رسد الق�ص�ص واحلرفية‪ .‬لذا نقوم يف كل �أ�سبوع‬ ‫يكن قد �سافر �إىل خارج تركيا‪ .‬وفازت يف امل�ؤمتر �إحدى‬ ‫مبناق�شة الأفكار املختلفة‪ ،‬وتبادل اخلربات ملعرفة ما‬ ‫ت�صاميمه بجائزة ت�صميم املجوهرات الراقية‪ .‬ومنذ ذلك‬ ‫�إذا كان من املمكن �أن ن�ستمد الإلهام من املفاهيم التي‬

‫ملكة المحار‬

‫تت�صف الل�ؤل�ؤة املثالية ب�أنها مدورة متاما وناعمة ال�سطح‪،‬‬ ‫لكن ميكن �أي�ضا �أن جند الل�ؤل�ؤ ب�أ�شكال �أخرى متعددة‪.‬‬ ‫وتتميز اللآلئ الطبيعية عالية اجلودة ب�أنها ذات قيمة‬ ‫ربت رمزا للجمال لقرون‬ ‫عالية كالأحجار الكرمية‪ ،‬وقد اع ُت ْ‬ ‫عديدة‪ .‬لذا �أ�صبح الل�ؤل�ؤ ي�ستخدم للتعبري عن كل ما هو‬ ‫نادر وراق وذي قيمة كبرية‪ .‬وقد ُنق�شت على هذه املحار‬ ‫العبارة الدارجة «العامل هو حمارتك» التي تعني �أنه ميكنك‬ ‫حتقيق �أو القيام بكل ما تريده يف احلياة لأن لديك الفر�صة‬ ‫للقيام بذلك‪ .‬وتتكون هذه قطعة من حبات كري�ستال‬ ‫�صخري حم�شوة بحبات الل�ؤل�ؤ ال�صغرية‪ ،‬يتو�سطها حجر‬ ‫توباز منقو�ش عليه يدويا وب�صورة معكو�سة ر�سما ملحارة‬ ‫بداخلها حبة ل�ؤل�ؤ‬

‫حتيط بنا‪ ،‬ومن ثم ننطلق من هناك"‪.‬‬ ‫وختم حديثه قائال‪" :‬ميكن للمرء �أن يجد جمموعتنا‬ ‫يف دبي‪ ،‬وهارودز يف لندن‪ ،‬وبارنيز يف نيويورك‪،‬‬ ‫وبورتوريكو‪ ،‬وهاريف نيكولز‪ ،‬ومتاجرنا يف ا�سطنبول‪.‬‬ ‫وعمال�ؤنا هم من ذوي العالقات اجليدة من املتحم�سني‬ ‫الذين يفهمون ويق ّدرون الفن‪ ،‬وذلك بف�ضل موزعينا‬ ‫الذين يقومون بتثقيف العمالء با�ستمرار من خالل �رسد‬ ‫الق�ص�ص الكامنة وراء كل قطعة من قطعنا‪ .‬ومما يثري‬ ‫االهتمام هو �أن الأ�شخا�ص الذين ي�شرتون قطع �سيفان‬ ‫الفنية البد �أن يزوروا ا�سطنبول بطريقة �أو ب�أخرى للقاء‬ ‫الرجل نف�سه"‪.‬‬ ‫‪64‬‬

‫�سيفان بيت�شات�شي يف‬ ‫ور�شته التي يبدع فيها‬ ‫هو وفريقه‪ ،‬ويقوم ب�صنع‬ ‫جمموعات رائعة وفريدة‬

‫الحميدية‬

‫يدعى هذا اخلامت بـ «احلميدية»‪ ،‬وهو ا�سم �أطلق يف عهد‬ ‫الإمرباطورية العثمانية على ال�سفن احلربية وبع�ض‬ ‫القرى‪ ،‬وهذا اخلامت م�صنوع من الذهب‪ ،‬واملا�س الأبي�ض‪،‬‬ ‫والأ�صفر‪ ،‬والبني‪ ،‬يتو�سطه حجر ال�سرتين‪ ،‬نق�ش عليه‬ ‫ر�سم م�ستوحى من الرتاث املعماري مل�ساجد ا�سطنبول‬ ‫فقد و�صلت روائع فن العمارة العثمانية �إىل الكمال من‬ ‫خالل اجلمع بني الأ�سلوب املعماري واجلمايل‪ ،‬الذي‬ ‫كانت تتميز به العمارة الأ�صلية يف ا�سطنبول منذ بناء‬ ‫الكني�سة البيزنطية �آيا �صوفيا يف القرن ال�ساد�س‪ ،‬والتقاليد‬ ‫الإ�سالمية الأخرى مثل الأبنية ذات القباب التي يعود‬ ‫تاريخها �إىل القرن العا�رش‪.‬‬

‫إبــــداع القصـــص‬ ‫مـــــــــن اسطنبـــول‬ ‫بقلم دبرينا عالية‬

‫حامل‪ ،‬ومبدع‪ ،‬وقا�ص للق�ص�ص‪ ،‬ومتب�رص‪ ،‬وحريف‪،‬‬ ‫و�أخريا هو �صائغ �أي�ضا‪ .‬هذا هو �سيفان بيت�شات�شي الذي‬ ‫قبل �أن يتزين املرء ب�أية قطعة من جموهراته عليه‬ ‫�أن يدخل �إىل عامله ال�سحري‪ ،‬فهو ي�أخذك يف رحلة‬ ‫�إىل الرومان�سية‪ ،‬والتاريخ الغني ال�سطنبول وغريها‬ ‫من املدن‪ ،‬حيث تتجلى يف كل قطعة فريدة من �أعماله احلكايات القدمية‬ ‫للقرا�صنة وال�سالطني العثمانيني‪ ،‬والطراز املعماري الرائع جلامع زيرك‬ ‫(كني�سة بانتوكراتور)‪ ،‬و�أ�ساطري الآلهة اليونانية‪ ،‬و�سماء تركيا املذهلة‪.‬‬ ‫وميكن للمرء ق�ضاء �ساعات للت�أمل يف التفا�صيل الدقيقة ملجموعته‪،‬‬ ‫وينغم�س يف الق�ص�ص الكامنة وراء كل حتفة تك�شف عن نافذة تطل على‬ ‫روح الرجل نف�سه‪.‬‬ ‫ن�ش�أ �سيفان حماطا بتاريخ وثقافة املدينة الآ�رسة ا�سطنبول التي تتقارب‬ ‫فيها قارتان لت�شكل بوتقة تن�صهر فيها الع�صور والت�أثريات املختلفة التي‬ ‫مرت على البالد‪ ،‬من �ساللة حاكمة �إىل �أخرى‪ ،‬ومن املعتقدات الأ�سطورية‬ ‫ّ‬ ‫املتعددة �إىل الديانات التوحيدية‪ .‬فعندما كان �صبيا �صغريا كان ينظر �إىل‬ ‫العامل من وجهات نظر متعددة‪ ،‬وكان حري�صا على جت�سيد هذه الأفكار‪،‬‬ ‫وعندما بلغ ‪ 12‬من العمر عمل يف متجر حملي لبيع املجوهرات‪ ،‬ليكت�شف‬ ‫العداء امل�ستمر القائم بني عملية الت�صميم الإبداعي والإنتاج الفعلي‪.‬‬

‫إنه‬

‫‪65‬‬

‫وباعتباره �شخ�صا جتريبيا بطبيعته فقد اكت�شف �أنه ال ي�ستطيع القيام‬ ‫مبغامراته الإبداعية من خالل التقنيات التقليدية ل�صياغة املجوهرات‪،‬‬ ‫كما �أن �صناعة املجوهرات مل تكن على ا�ستعداد ال�ستيعاب ت�صاميمه‬ ‫اخليالية للغاية‪ ،‬وبعد عقود من العمل‪ ،‬قرر �سيفان يف النهاية �أن ين�رش‬ ‫جناحيه ويطري يف رحلة غيرّ ت حياته‪ ،‬لي�س بالن�سبة له فح�سب‪ ،‬و�إمنا‬ ‫�أي�ضا يف عامل املجوهرات الراقية كذلك‪.‬‬ ‫ومن جانبه قال اميري ديالفر‪ ،‬املدير الإبداعي للعالمة التجارية‪:‬‬ ‫"لقد �أدى �شعوره بالإحباط واحلاجة �إىل �إثبات خط�أ العامل �إىل دفعه‬ ‫للبدء يف �إن�شاء جمموعته اخلا�صة‪ ،‬لذا �رشع يف عام ‪ 2001‬بتحقيق‬ ‫ر�ؤاه اخلا�صة املتعلقة باحلياة‪ ،‬فقام بالتجريب و�إبداع تقنيات جديدة‬ ‫للإنتاج حتى يتمكن من حتقيق الأفكار التي �أرادها‪ .‬وبعد ذلك بعام‪،‬‬ ‫�أ�صبح لدينا حوايل ‪ 50‬خامتا يف جمموعتنا التي �أنتجناها من ر�أ�س‬ ‫مال اقرت�ضناه"‪.‬‬ ‫وا�ستخدم �سيفان تقنية معقدة للغاية تدعى بـ «النق�ش» حلفر الأحجار‬ ‫الكرمية ب�صورة معكو�سة يدويا وجتويفها من الداخل لإبداع الت�صاميم‬ ‫التي يريدها من داخلها‪ .‬وهي عملية �صعبة لأن احلريف ال ي�ستطيع �أن‬ ‫يرى من �سطح احلجر ما يجري داخله‪ ،‬لذا عليه �أن يعمل على حوايل‬ ‫ثماين قطع من الأحجار الكرمية قبل حتقيق النتيجة املرجوة‪ .‬و�أبدع‬

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THE MUSIC MAKERS Is it the instrument with its deep resonance or the nimble fingers gliding over it that weave a symphony, asks Sindhu Nair, as she is transported to a Viennese classical era.

ou didn’t have to be a music aficionado to appreciate the nuances, the infinitesimal pauses and then the crescendo of notes when Jan Jiracek von Arnim played to a small gathering at the Yamaha Music Square inside Fifty One East multibrand store at the Lagoona Mall. But it would have helped... It helps to appreciate the great instrument and the performer who was playing the classical pieces to perfection. Jan Jiracek was here to welcome the store’s first “Liszt 200th Anniversary” piano, of the world-renowned brand Bösendorfer. The venerated pianist commemorated the launch of the premium brand in Doha through another of his performances the following day at the Qatar Foundation. It was a performance par excellence. Described by BBC Music Magazine as “one of the

leading pianists of his generation”, Jan Jiracek earned his title by claiming first place at several international competitions. He was a piano professor at the prestigious School of Music in Vienna, Austria and is frequently invited as a judge at many international piano competitions. Last year he was also selected to be the artistic director of the International Beethoven Piano Competition Vienna. For Jan, a career in music is the “best way to spend your life”. And in his musical voyage, right from the path paved by his musician parents – his father was a trumpeter and his mother an organ player – to his sojourns around the world exercising his passion, he has been enacting the role of an “ambassador of music”. “You feel as if you are giving something to the audience. I have performed in Japan. I don’t speak a word of Japanese, nor Arabic for that matter, but the moment I go on stage, my audience understands me, the language I play touches them and connects us in a way that would

not be possible if I knew the language,” he says. Music is also said to transcend regions and cultures. Jan has tried that too, bridging the gap through understanding the diverse musical genres of the regions he visits.

“ ”

When you listen to the sound of a Bösendorfer you are reminded of the old instruments of the time of the classical era “In Morocco, where I have performed numerous times, I am always invited to the annual musical festivals. And I am constantly learning from the way the Moroccans fuse music – for example, their traditional classical music with jazz music, and the resulting variety is absolutely amazing.” Even with his musical adventures, Jan is not experimental, at least not in his classical recitals. “I am comfortable playing classical music to an audience. I love to hear fusion and I love to listen to jazz musicians, but I don’t think I am good enough to play them. I focus on my strengths,” laughs the unpretentious performer. “What I understand and love is the music of the Viennese classical era. And I am happy that people love me for this.” The realization of this musical gift came very early, when Jan was just 10 when he performed in competition in front of an audience. “As a child you don’t realize what you are going to do, so there is very little fear. The competition was at a big music hall in Hamburg and it was filled with people. "It was then that I realised that it is not just me enjoying what I do but there are others who are equally appreciative. I still remember the moment...” And with pride writ large on his face, he says, “That’s when I realized that this is my calling; this is what I should do with my life, this is my destiny.” But life isn’t quite so straightforward; Jan had to stray from his passion for a while and study to be a doctor before he could plunge into the world of music. “I could not imagine my life without making music. And there was no room for compromise in my musical journey, so I had to make the decision to give up my alternate career.” Mercifully, he made the right choice and the audience is not deprived of the pure classical renditions that Jan’s fingers effortlessly strum.

The instrument On to the gadget of such pure connotations, Jan says, “One hundred years ago there were many piano makers, most of whom disappeared. One of the absolute best piano brands is Bösendorfer. It’s one of the world’s oldest piano manufacturers, wellknown for the quality and sound of its instruments. I love them because they still focus on their tradition. When you listen to the sound of a Bösendorfer you are reminded of the old instruments of the time of the Viennese classical era. In Vienna, I had the opportunity to play on old instruments owned by musical maestros like Franz Schubert and you feel a close relationship with these instruments. You don’t have it with any other piano. The sound of the Bösendorfer is so unique and it is called the ‘touching sound’. I think they call it that as they cannot find any other word to describe the beautiful effect.” The Bösendorfer sound is usually described as darker or richer than the purer but less fullbodied sound of other pianos. “From where I come from, Bösendorfer is the main brand. When I perform at the music center at Vienna, I always perform on this. At the School of Music, where I teach, we teach the students on a Bösendorfer. It also helps the students understand the pure classics of the region.” On the Imperial Grand, this characteristic tonal quality in part derives from the inclusion of nine additional bass notes below bottom A. As very little music makes direct use of the extra strings, they usually contribute to the piano’s sonic character not through being played directly, but by resonating when other

strings in the piano are struck, contributing additional body to the tone. Moreover, the bass notes of the Bˆsendorfer, including the extra bass keys, are very powerful, adding volume in demanding literature. Jan, who owns this special instrument, can identify the Bösendorfer, blind-folded by just listening to its unique resonance. The Liszt 200th Anniversary of the Bösendorfer brand is a limited edition model with only 25 pieces produced globally. It is a supremely elegant instrument that was designed in honor of the great composer Frantz Liszt. “Fifty One East continues to deliver to the market some of the world’s most prestigious brands. Introducing Bösendorfer’s grand pianos, made of first-class materials and with artistic workmanship, seems like a natural step for us,” says Ziad Asmar, Executive Director of Darwish Technology at Darwish Holding. More music Jan, who has performed all over the world, including the Carnegie Hall in the US and with the Berlin Philharmonic, feels that his best audience has not been inside these classical halls but in the middle of small cities. “I am honored to perform at these great places where the acoustics are perfect and the audience so musically aware. But the pleasure derived from playing in small cities, and for people who can’t really afford the concert tickets nor listen to music daily, is incomparable. "These audiences are my best. You realize that ordinary people are really hungry for good music too.”

face Pencil me in

Springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s defining makeup moment? The serious brow. Sandra Ballentine shapes up.

fashion editor: sara moonves. jil sander sweater, QR6,698, and dress, QR3,895. go to saks.com. fashion assistant: olivia jade horner. hair by teddy charles for orlo salon. makeup by james kaliardos. model: julia nobis.

PHOTOGRAPH BY richard burbridge

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

If there was one spring runway

missoni

altuzarra

High brow Tom Pecheux gave models heavy black brows at Altuzarra (above) and strongly defined ones at Derek Lam (right). Lucia Pieroni exaggerated the arches at Missoni (above right). derek lam

Hey, Lighten Up

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Kathryn Branch

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clockwise from top left: greg kessler; go runway (2 ). Products: Jens Mortensen (6).

trend that reached critical mass, it was the strong, dark brow. There were bushy ’80s caterpillars at Donna Karan (courtesy of Charlotte Tilbury); Dick Page’s heavily penciled arches at Zero + Maria Cornejo and Michael Kors; and for the Chanel catwalk, Peter Philips painted emphatic punctuation marks onto otherwise pale, pretty faces. The look was most striking (and modern) on blondes like Abbey Lee, Ginta Lapina and Daphne Groeneveld (see the heavy black brows she sported at Altuzarra, right). ‘‘Big brows are more youthful and raw than perfect ones,’’ says Pat McGrath, who played them up at Stella McCartney and Versace. ‘‘What’s more, anyone can wear a stronger brow. But the level of strength should be adjusted to suit your face.’’ To get the look, alternate between two pencils — one matching your brow color and the other slightly lighter (McGrath likes CoverGirl Brow & Eye Makers in Soft Blonde and Soft Brown) — and draw light strokes in the direction brows grow to create the illusion of texture and depth. Use fewer strokes at the brow’s beginning and end so they don’t look drawn in. Next, heighten the arches to give a bit of lift, and extend the ends if needed. Use an angled brow brush and powder (try Laura Mercier Brow Powder Duo) to fill in bare areas and up the drama ante. n

face profile in style Westman (wearing Céline) in the living room of the Chelsea loft she shares with her husband, David Neville, and their two children. The mantel is hand-poured concrete, and the landscape photograph is by Rick Giles.

Above: the master bedroom is papered with a Colefax and Fowler print. Left: Gray’s night light. Below: the duplex’s stairway is lined with family photos, artwork and pressed flowers. Background: one of Westman’s latest color creations: Revlon ColorStay 16-Hour Eye Shadow in Seductive.

The sought-after makeup artist (and global artistic director for Revlon) may work with the hottest editors, models and celebrities on the planet, but when she’s hunkered down at home with her husband, David Neville (the co-designer of Rag & Bone), and their two children, high glamour takes a back seat to stylish comfort. Their bilevel Manhattan penthouse, an eclectic mix of industrial chic and English country romanticism, is brimming with new and vintage furniture, art, books, family photos and kids’ toys. Says Westman, ‘‘We love cozy things like exposed brick and fireplaces. We keep a fire going well into summer!’’ S a n d r a B a l l e n t i n e

P H O T O G R A P H s B Y kava gorna

Above: some of Gray’s purses and toiletry bags hang in the guest room. ‘‘She’s supergirly,’’ Westman says. Right: the office/ library contains vintage leather furniture.

Fashion editor: rae boxer. hair by Tim Nolan for Tommy Guns.

Gucci Westman

Below: she loves flats from Céline, her go-to label when not wearing Rag & Bone (or Lanvin or Chanel). Background: her new Revlon PhotoReady Cream Blush in Flushed and Coral Reef. Westman with Dashel (‘‘Dash’’), 4, and Gray, 2, in their bedroom. She wears a dress by Chloé and Rag & Bone shoes.

“ ” Above: botanical prints in the master bedroom. ‘‘I think our next wallpaper will be something like this — we change it every few years,’’ Westman says. Right: the kids’ sports medals.

Kava Gorna

Left: the leather ‘‘kidproof’’ coffee table (an old French gymnastics table) was a gift from Neville’s parents. Right: the makeup artist wears a J. Crew top and Rag & Bone/Jean leather pants.

get must-haves

Photographs by Ben Pogue Fashion Editor: ethel park

Best western here’s to Rootin’-Tootin’ summer bootin’. clockwise from top left: balenciaga by nicolas ghesquière shoes, QR5,733. thakoon shoes, QR3640. Marc Jacobs boot, QR3,258. miu miu shoe, QR3,240.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

BORDER PATROL watch for bags trimmed in fluoro colors. Clockwise from top right: cĂŠline bag, QR8,372. pierre hardy clutch, QR2,548. Giuseppe zanotti design clutch, QR3,258. Rag & Bone perforated clutch, QR1,056.

get must-haves

Shoulder dusters

the new 端ber-long earrings are dropping like flies. Clockwise from top: salvatore ferragamo earring, QR1,966 for a pair. Missoni earring, QR1,310 each. Oscar de la renta earrings, QR1,438 for a pair. marni earrings, QR1,529 for a pair. Jen Kao earring, price on request.

talk crosscurrents

dedicated followers of fashion were starting to take the slow road. Victoria Beckham is an example. When she won Brandof-the-Year at the British Fashion Awards last November, even her most cynical critics took notice. Backed by Simon Fuller of ‘‘American Idol’’ fame, and with her and her husband David Beckham’s successful perfume behind her, ‘‘VB’’ began to work as a business. She made slender, classy dresses in her own image and sold them at high-end prices, with just a showroom presentation and no big runway event. The approach was mirrored by other smart celebrities. With their fame as twin actresses, the Olsen sisters could have signed on to any fashion collaboration. But instead they started the Row with none of the bells and whistles associated with a celebrity start-up. The clothes were chic with a youthful twist, and made from the best fabrics. L’Wren Scott was also wrapped in the aura of fame, through her partner, Mick Jagger. First known as a Hollywood stylist and costume designer, in 2006 she produced a line of elegant outfits that did not hang by a thread to anyone else’s glamour. Soon stylists came out of the shadows and into the limelight of their star clients. Rachel Zoe has dressed Nicole Richie, Lindsay Lohan, Cameron Diaz and Anne Hathaway. Then her boho look became marketable. She starred on a reality show and a fashion line followed. Lady Gaga and the editor/stylist Nicola Formichetti seem to be joined at the hip. Not only can Formichetti take some credit for the infamous red meat dress, he’s also reviving the Thierry Mugler label with a runway assist from Lady Gaga. Now, it’s possible for a star and a stylist to drag a brand in to the 21st century. But as a fashion editor, I have to ask myself

red carpet baggers

Suzy Menkes weighs in on celebrity labels.

Kanye? Nay Top: West taking a bow in Paris after his debut collection. Above: looks from the collection, which was tepidly received.

whether taste and style are really a match for creativity and experience? Sometimes I get mad thinking how tough it is for talented young creatives to get financing while stars are lavished because they’re already famous. But is the celebrity cult such a new phenomenon? Coco Chanel used her aristocratic lovers and their connections to help build herself a business. And back in the ’80s, I used to see the Nefertiti profile of Jacqueline de Ribes in YSL’s front row; a society figure, she took to designing under her own noble name. Some of these socialite brands have actually thrived. Diane von Furstenberg and Carolina Herrera both started as glamorous society figures — and just look at them now! The way Tory Burch is developing her business, she too could have her name in lights for the next 20 years. But there are warning flags, as when the über-stylish music mogul Kanye West decided to introduce a collection last fall. The full-on glamour might have worked in New York, but on the Paris runways it just seemed derivative. What do ‘‘real’’ designers think of their celeb competitors? Mostly they say, ‘‘Don’t give up the day job.’’ Alber Elbaz, who, by way of Israeli design school, an apprenticeship at Geoffrey Beene and a stint at Saint Laurent, has repositioned Lanvin as a redhot brand, put his reaction to pop stars-turned-style gurus like this: ‘‘And maybe I should sing?’’ n

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: GETTY IMAGES (4); WIREIMAGE; GETTY IMAGES.

ow when should I start my ‘‘Suzy’’ collection? I have all the credentials: I’ve sat front row at a gazillion fashion shows; I’ve rubbed platform soles with countless celebrities. Victoria Beckham smiles at me and has even shown me her new daughter, Harper Seven. Would it take any more to turn me into a fashion brand? The idea that anyone can be a designer is now part of the culture. Celebrities, stylists and enthusiasts on ‘‘Project Runway’’ are all aiming to join Karl & Co. It all started with celebrity endorsements. No one really imagined that Jennifer Lopez was cutting and stitching the outfits that bore her name when she first introduced J. Lo in 2001. It was just a branding exercise, like Gwen Stefani’s L.A.M.B. or Elizabeth Taylor’s White Diamonds. The rise of celebrity magazines through the 1990s brought fashion and fame together in a way that hasn’t stopped. Suddenly, it was not enough to put your name on a middlepriced line to sell at Macy’s. Stars in the front row at fashion week wanted to join the elite club of designers. While many of these star brands were flaring out, other

trends all the trimmings â&#x20AC;˘ A mean sheen

1 lunatic fringe but in a good way. this season, expect to be flapping in the wind. Photographs by robbie fimmano fashion editor: Ethel park

bird flou so fab, it's sick (so to speak). Prabal gurung coat with ostrich feathers, QR20,202. Alexander wang shirt, QR1,183, printed shirt, QR2,457, and shorts, price on request. David Webb ring, QR83,720. In god we trust ear cuff, QR291. Maniamania earring, QR692.

* All prices indicative. For availability & boutique details check Brand Directory on Page 98.

binge on fringe when it's short and cropped, there's no such thing as too much. Gucci dress, QR28,392. Leatherman shirt, QR1,183. Bertolucci watch, QR10,738. David Webb rings, QR83,720 EacH. Jennifer Fisher ear hook and earring, Prices on request. Lillian Crowe ear cuff, QR320. In god we trust ear cuff, QR146.

trends

flap happy fringe as skirt. Prada jacket, price on request, and shoes, QR5,278. Versus dress, QR6,825. Michael kors belt, QR1,074. Eddie Borgo earrings, QR1,147. Bijules ear cuff, QR1,376. DAvid Webb ring, QR83,720.

plastic fantastic the space-age variety. Marc jacobs coat, QR21,476, shirt, QR6,188, and skirt, QR6,916. david webb cuff, price on request. Iosselliani earring, QR637. Fashion Assistant: Mallory Schlau. hair by Dennis Devoy for redken at art department. Makeup by Karan Franjola at marek and associates using Chanel.

trends

2 iridescence all you mermaid wannabes, glisten up! Springâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about the sheen. Photographs by colin dodgson Fashion editor: sara moonves

Sea Craft deconstruct this chic wet suit, and you have a tailorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Touch. Givenchy by riccardo tisci jacket, price on request, top, QR22,877, and pants, QR25,353.

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trends

GLEAM TEAM THIS SEASON’S COLOR BLOCKING HAS THE REQUISiTE sparkle. balenciaga by nicolas ghesquière dresses (on both), prices on request. similar styles at balenciaga, New York. hats, QR11,830 each, and boots, QR7,826 each.

trends

Lead in Caption to come Essundebis andestiore qui dolor eperum volorepedit ex eos eos di offici

striped lass iridescence in graphic detail. Giorgio armani dress, QR26,554. loeffler randall shoes, QR855. fashion associate: rae boxer. hair by tamara mcnaughton using bumble and bumble. makeup by stevie huynh at the wall group. manicure by roseann singleton at art department using chanel. prop stylist: nick des jardins for mary howard studio. models: josephine skriver and patricia van der vliet.

The New York Times Style Magazine

WOMENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S FASHION SPRING 2012

spring fever art work by rodarte

having survived a brutal sexual attack, Lara Logan remains a tenacious journalist, albeit one steeped in risk assessment.

Safe at home

By sally singer Photographs by CASS BIRD Fashion editor: Ethel Park

Homeland security Lara Logan stands in her breakfast room in her family’s house in Washington, D.C. ‘‘I fantasize about sleeping,’’ she says. Lanvin shirt, QR6,643, skirt, QR6,170, and belt, QR1,074. Christian Louboutin shoes, QR2,894. Cartier watch, QR18,928.

On a blustery weekend afternoon, I am sitting in the living room of Lara Logan’s house in a leafy neighborhood in Washington, D.C., waiting for the CBS reporter to come home from the office. From my perch on a leather sectional sofa, I can see a plastic children’s fort in the garden; hear the creak of the front porch swing; marvel at the length of wooden train track snaking across the floor; peruse a guide to world armies; sip a cup of Nescafé with Coffee-mate. Also anticipating Logan’s arrival are her husband, Joseph Burkett, a work-athome Congressional liaison, who is doing what all work-athome dads do, i.e. strategically skirting past areas populated by children; Joseph and Lola, ages 3 and nearly 2, in pj’s and pacifiers, just up from their naps and on the prowl for snacks; and Ruby, the nanny, installed at the kitchen table from which she can attend to everyone’s needs with minimal motion. Logan, a ‘‘60 Minutes’’ correspondent, is now 90 minutes late, but one gets the sense from Burkett’s periodic updates (‘‘she’s just been held up, leaving soon’’) that a long office stint on a weekend is not out of the ordinary. When she eventually arrives — in flat boots and skinny fleece, looking freckled, tousled, sporty — she is greeted by the siege on Mommy, an attack of love and neediness all working mothers know too well. ‘‘I don’t think about career ambition,’’ she tells me later. ‘‘I don’t think about access. I think about how fast can I get home. That’s it.’’ What it means to come home, for Lara Logan, 40, has changed dramatically in the past year. Last February, it was

this house to which she returned after being attacked and sexually violated in Cairo’s Tahrir Square by members of the crowd gathered to celebrate the revolutionary end of Hosni Mubarak’s 30-year regime. She is reluctant to discuss the details of that experience again — she gave one interview to CBS last May — but it is clear that she and those close to her are still coming to terms with the ramifications of it for her family and her career. ‘‘What happened to Lara is as horrible an event as can happen to a human being,’’ says Jeff Fager, the chairman of CBS News. ‘‘She came so close to losing it all in Egypt. I find it amazing that she can carry on.’’ He adds that she ‘‘doesn’t have the same drive to be in the frontlines because of her children.’’ Her sister Lisa Herr says, ‘‘I think that for the first time in her life she’s torn. She’s realizing what it’s like to have something that is more important than work.’’ The attack occurred just one week after she’d been taken into custody overnight by the Egyptian military and denied any contact with her family. ‘‘Joe and I sat here,’’ Logan tells me, pushing her palms into the leather sofa, ‘‘six weeks after Egypt, and it was the first time he talked about how it affected him. He said, ‘I sat here one week when you went into radio silence and I knew you were in the custody of the Egyptians, and I didn’t know if I was ever going to see you again. And a week later I sat here and answered the phone and I didn’t even recognize the person on the other end of the line. I had no idea if my wife was coming home.’ He said, ‘That is twice in a week. I would rather be the person on the other end. I would

‘Most of the time the military absolutely hates the media. breaking through that barrier is very hard.’ them. ‘‘We have a different scale of what’s really risky,’’ she says, laughing. This summer she is scheduled to return to Afghanistan and is clearly excited to be heading back to an arena she knows well. She may no longer have the drive to be on the frontlines, but there is something twitchy about her that seems to crave the battlefield and the singular obstacles it presents. Like the military personnel she has trailed for a decade, Logan is a returning soldier of sorts, befuddled and fearful of bedtimes (her children are often still awake at 11, to her horror) and bills and all the other banalities of civilian life — which, to be fair, are still relatively new to her.

ara Logan came to the attention of CBS in 2001 because of her radio dispatches from Afghanistan. From the outset she was an exotic find for the American network: a 30-year-old single-minded, fearless South African beauty, obsessed with news gathering. ‘‘I don’t know anything about the arts,’’ she confesses, ‘‘except when I am working on it for a story. My brother is a musical encyclopedia, and I’m not like that about anything except the news and the world.’’ She was passionate about documenting political change because of what she had seen in her native Durban and Johannesburg: ‘‘I have had this innate send of justice and injustice my whole life. Growing up in South Africa it was right there around you: I mean human suffering and injustice on a terrible, terrible scale, and also human nobility.’’ Her parents, who divorced when Logan was 8, were progressive in their views but not overtly political. Says her father Derek Logan, a retired textile importer, ‘‘Lara always supported the underdog. And in our country, at that time, the underdog were the black people.’’ And she was, and is, uninterested in celebrity of a more comfortable, cameraready variety: ‘‘I never wanted to be an anchor. I couldn’t think of anything worse. I don’t want to sit there and smile

and tell you about today’s news. To do that really well is a very unique skill that people underestimate all the time. I don’t have that skill. I hate making small talk.’’ Instead, she wanted to go to Angola, in 1992, to cover the worst atrocities she has ever seen. Logan defined herself at CBS News as an ‘‘obsessive’’ (Fager’s word) correspondent who would go to any length to get a story. (Before the invasion of Iraq she refused to evacuate with her CBS team and only briefly decamped to the border of Jordan at her boss’s insistence. She then drove back into ‘‘shock and awe,’’ blaring Van Morrison all the way.) She established deep contacts with the military, which her higher-ups at the network have no issue with and indeed find impressive and ‘‘based on trust and knowledge.’’ Says Logan, ‘‘Most of the time the military absolutely hates the media; breaking through that barrier is very hard.’’ And she poured herself into covering two wars, tours of duty that bookended the untimely death of her mother at 61 from a staph infection contracted during a back operation in a Durban hospital. Logan came out of Iraq at the end of 2003 to spend the next five months sleeping in a hospital while her mother was in a medically induced coma. ‘‘I had seen so many people die,’’ she remembers. ‘‘Now here I am in an I.C.U. doing something that people do every day: they watch people they love die. And this is more horrific than anything I’ve ever done. I was in shock for a good six months.’’ She spent those months in Afghanistan. By this point her marriage to Jason Siemon, a basketball player in England, was becoming strained; they would soon separate. (Says Derek Logan: ‘‘We liked him very much. Jason. It had no chance; you can’t have a marriage where you’re away so much.’’) And she had formed a close friendship with Joseph Burkett, a government contractor originally from Texas, with a young daughter, Ashley (now 7). ‘‘I knew him for about six years before we got together,’’ she says of Burkett. ‘‘He had a very secretive job, and I always respected that. I know tons of people in that world, and I never ask them questions because it’s a violation right there. He never crossed my boundaries; I never crossed his. And then one night he came out to visit me in Baghdad and said, ‘I think I just fell in love with you.’ I knew him well enough to know he would never say that if he didn’t mean it. At the same time, I’m thinking, Oh God, I think it’s true and I think I’m in love with him. And that was it.’’ But Logan, being a divorcée, was conflicted. ‘‘I thought, I just can’t go through this again. I had had a very good marriage, and we had a traumatic divorce because there really was nothing wrong. It took more than three years to let go. I looked at Joe and thought, I can’t do this again, this thing of hope and commitment and making promises that you one day find you don’t want — or can’t — keep. He said, I just want one word from you. And I said, ‘What’s that?’ And he said, ‘forever.’ I was like, O.K., I’m done. That’s it, forever then! And when we hate each other, we remind each other that we hate each other forever!’’ They married in 2008. Logan and Burkett are now enduring, with humor and enthusiasm, the battlefield of modern family life. She can’t get to the gym. They can’t get to the movies. She catches up on work e-mails in the middle of the night (‘‘They all think I don’t need sleep, don’t like sleep. Not true. I fantasize about sleeping.’’) and says there are ‘‘4,000 things I haven’t done. ‘‘I really have everything I could ever want,’’ she says. ‘‘It doesn’t mean that it’s easy: it’s not easy. I really don’t make those fundamental decisions about my work alone anymore because it’s not fair. Otherwise I think you really do just end up living two lives. And that doesn’t work.’’ Welcome home. n

Fashion assistant: Mallory Schlau. Hair by Benoit Moeyaert for Bumble and Bumble at Art Department. Makeup by Maki H. at the Wall Group.

rather be dead than be the one raising the children without you. Don’t do this to me again. Please. I am begging you not to do this to me again.’ ’’ And she agreed. In the past year Logan’s assignments have taken her to the backstage of an Aerosmith concert, a Michael Bublé show, a game reserve in Texas, a polo field. She is the co-host, with Charlie Rose, of ‘‘Person to Person,’’ a reworking of Edward R. Murrow’s classic show of the 1950s, in which the interviews are conducted via a feed from a studio in New York. She still talks rapidly and excitedly about her more precarious stories — the arrest of a Colombian drug cartel, say — but is quick to downplay the threat involved in

Supermom Lara, Lola, 1, and Joseph, 3. ‘‘I think about how fast I can get home,’’ she says. On Lara: Calvin Klein Collection shirt, QR3,258. Chloé skirt, QR12,358. Michael Kors belt, QR4,714. Manolo Blahnik for Girl by Band of Outsiders shoes, price on request. Hermès necklace, QR9,464.

shimmer like your sister Kate

thanks to studs, beads and posh paillettes, everything this spring is illuminated. Photographs by ed templeton Fashion editor: sara moonves

ice maiden this jason wu top, QR14,469, is frosted with icicle beads.

Hot â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Crusty two examples of over-the-top embellishment. mulberry dress, price on request. by special order at Mulberry stores. opposite: lanvin dress, QR40,022.

A touch of glass sparkle, on a trim or an entire motif, adds light to the face, kind of like anti-aging fashion. the row top, QR15,288. leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans, QR284. Opposite: christopher kane top, QR50,232. oscar de la renta earrings, QR1,438. fashion associate: rae boxer. makeup by sarai fiszel for rms beauty. models: ruby aldridge, ashley baluyut, grant hatfield.

A STAR

IS BORN (and scorned)

By Jacob brown Photographs by Terry Richardson styled by mel ottenberg

for some reason, Lana del rey and her sultry songs drive some people nuts.

carrying a torch del rey, who built her fan base on the internet, writes music reminiscent of old-fashioned torch songs. Carven top, QR1,729.

Curvaceous and pretty in a dress, she brims with catchy songs, all a bit retro, ironic and modern. Without straying too far off the pop grid, she’s the perfect antidote to Rihanna-Gaga overload — dare we say, a skinnier Adele, a more stable Amy Winehouse? Since posting ‘‘Video Games’’ to YouTube last summer, she’s amassed tens of millions of hits, sold out concerts to fashion’s who’s who and now, finally, has released her long-awaited album. If you were going to manufacture a star for this moment, you’d manufacture her. Some people believe that’s precisely what happened. Sitting in her producer’s Chelsea studio in jeans and an oversize sweater, smoking Pall Mall Blues that share space — in a beat-up snakeskin bag — with an old Tennessee Williams paperback, Lana Del Rey tries to shrug off the suggestion that her father bought her success, that her face went under the knife, that she is some sort of industry creation — all accusations floating around the Internet. It’s absurd or maybe flattering, but despite her laugh and smile, it hurts. ‘‘I mean, I met everyone who is anyone in the music industry over the last six years and I was unsignable,’’ she says. ‘‘That’s what I was told by everyone. I would play my songs, explain what I was trying to do, and I’d get, ‘You know who’s No. 1 in 13 countries right now? Ke$ha.’ ’’ There’s a formula for a pop song and a prescribed length for radio. Nothing Del Rey’s written obeys either. ‘‘ ‘Video Games’ was a four and a half minute ballad,’’ she says. ‘‘No instruments on it. It was too dark, too personal, too risky, not commercial. It wasn’t pop until it was on the radio.’’ And even ‘‘Born to Die’’ — her first big video — was, with its double chorus that never lifts, described to her as ‘‘another monotonous depressing song.’’ For an hour, Del Rey and her producer play songs from the album. She points out jazzy idiosyncrasies, quirky lyrics and favorite melodies. Sometimes she sings; often she gets up and dances. Finally, we head to a 10th Avenue Italian restaurant that her publicist has chosen. It feels tacky. ‘‘Do you want to just get a coffee across the street, and sit on a stoop? It’s not too cold?’’ she asks. I agree, though it is in fact too cold. It seems preposterous to ask but I ask anyway. ‘‘It’s fine,’’ she assures me. ‘‘They’re real lips, I mean . . . in real life my lips don’t look that big. I think because I cartoonized the footage of myself in the video for ‘Video Games’ things look exaggerated.’’ If that video is to blame for a pernicious rumor, it is also to blame for putting her on the map. What it didn’t do was get her a record deal. Not until Fearne Cotton, a BBC D.J., stumbled across it and played it on Radio 1 last June. Suddenly the world was calling. ‘‘I was struck by the wonderful combination of spine-

tingling video footage, her haunting voice and the simplicity of the song,’’ Cotton wrote in an e-mail. ‘‘I watched it about five or six times in a row and became slightly fixated with it. The lyrics then started to really stand out and it became my song of last summer. . . . I had been waiting for a song like this.’’ Hers is the typical experience. But it can set unrealistic expectations for Del Rey’s live performances. Look for her to break it down Nicki Minaj-style and you’ll be disappointed. Her turn on ‘‘Saturday Night Live’’ in January was widely criticized. She told me presciently about her anxiety beforehand: ‘‘I’m not by nature a showstopper. I love to write and play songs, but onstage, all these things come into play. I’m always saying to myself, Don’t mess up. Don’t mess up.’’ Del Rey is a small-town girl. She grew up Elizabeth Grant in Lake Placid, N.Y., neither rich nor poor. She remembers as a kid asking herself cheesy meaning-of-life questions and thinking she was really special for doing so. Then, in high school, she took a philosophy class and realized she was like everyone else. While a philosophy major at Fordham University, she started finagling gigs in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, and the East Village. At 19 a small indie label signed her as Lizzy Grant for QR3. ‘‘It was amazing. I got my own place to live. I lived on that money, finished school. At that point I envisioned having a very nice career touring small clubs, continuing my studies in philosophy and volunteering,’’ she tells me. ‘‘It’s actually the same vision I have today. I have a serious life here. I have a really big family. You know, I’m needed here.’’ Needed by whom? She hints at family, which makes sense given the darker, psychosexual context of many of her songs. What about love and loss, the other dark note in her oeuvre? ‘‘I felt the same way for a really long time, and then I met someone who I guess I fell in love with,’’ she says. ‘‘I just didn’t know I could feel differently. That time with him became sort of . . . a place that I fell back to in my memory.’’ And the breakup? ‘‘Well, I mean, the breakup is a part of it in the way that in the midst of loss you try to still look towards the light and not fall to pieces or do self-destructive things.’’ She grows quiet, looks at her watch. It’s getting late. She admits that she doesn’t have an important industry meeting, as her publicist told me, but has to babysit for a friend. Before she goes, I ask her where she lives. She’s looking to buy a place, but for now is in Williamsburg. ‘‘Staying with my ex-boyfriend,’’ she says nonchalantly, then bursts into nervous laughter and admits, ‘‘I live on his couch.’’ I give her a look like, You just told me all that about falling in love and breaking up and you’re on the dude’s couch? She pins it on the touring, letting out another embarrassed laugh. ‘‘Because no, I’m busy though!’’ n

insult comedy Del Rey is no shrinking violet when it comes to critics. chanel top, QR5260. vintage christian dior belt from what goes around comes around, price on request. Diesel jeans, QR830. on right hand: jennifer fisher ring, QR5,096. black and white opposite: the onetime philosophy major is philosophical about this emporio armani underwear top, QR160. Opening ceremony skirt, QR928. Charlotte olympia for peter som shoes, showpiece only. fashion assistants: julia gall and haley wollens.

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Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111 Highland - The Mall - 44678678 1 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1051

Adolfo Dominguez

Lagoon Mall - 44811317

A. Lange & Sohne

Al Majed Jewelry - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44478888

Agent Provocateur

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2271

Alexander McQueen

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2231

Amouage

51 East -Al Maha Center - Salwa Road - 44257777

Armani Exchange

Villaggio Mall - 44161005

Balmain

51 East - Al Maha Center - Salwa Road - 44257777

Balenciaga

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1861

Banana Republic

Villaggio Mall - 44135222

Barbara Bui

Zai - Salwa Road - 44092600

Betty Barclay

Emporium Shopping Centre 44375796/98

Berluti

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44161860

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Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

Blumarine

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1811

Boss Orange

Salam Plaza - 44485555 The Mall - 44551325 Porto Arabia,The Pearl Qatar 44953876 Extn 1521

Bottega Veneta

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44507354

Breitling

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

Brioni

51 East -Al Maha Center - Salwa Road - 44257777

Burberry

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134551

Bvlgari

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134568/44134566

Boucheron

Lagoona Mall 44361111

100

Canali

Fendi

Jaeger LeCoulture

Carolina Herrera

Franck Muller

John Galliano

Cartier

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Celine

Galliano

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Georg Jensen

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Calvin Klein Collection

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Christian Dior

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Chopard

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2 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1471

Damiani

Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

David Morris

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Royal Plaza - 44131381 Villaggio Mall - 44134788

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7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2241

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Zai - Salwa Road - 44092600

Emporio Armani

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2161

Ermenegildo Zegna

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134765

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6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1921

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Giuseppe Zanotti Design

7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2291

Givenchy

The Mall - 44678888

Gucci

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134612

Harry Winston

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44519900

Harmont & Blaine

2 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1481

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6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1911

Hublot

Al Majed Jewelry - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44478888 Al Majed Jewelry - Villaggio Mall 44507701

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Salam Plaza - 44485555 The Mall - 44672200 The Gate - 44077162 Extn 320

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4 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1651

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Porto Arabia - Parcel 4 - The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 - Extn 1991 Emporium Shopping Centre 44375796/98

Lacoste

Villaggio Mall - 44507191 Landmark Shopping Mall 44887604

Lanvin Paris

Zai - Salwa Road - 44092600

LeoPizzo

Ali Bin Ali W & J - Royal Plaza 44131391

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Zai - Salwa Road - 44507356 Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44507356

Love Moschino

2 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1061 Emporium Shopping Centre 44375796/98

Louis Vuitton

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44134927

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Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

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Villaggio Mall - 44507009 The Mall - 44674920 City Center - 44839532 Royal Plaza - 44131398 The Four Seasons Hotel 44935288

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1 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 - Extn 1111

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Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111

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Blue Salon - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44466111 The Mall - 44678888

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Villaggio Mall - 44135222

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Al Majed Jewelry - Suhaim Bin Hamad Street - 44478888

Paris Hilton Bags

Royal Plaza - 44131381

Prada

Villaggio Mall- Via Domo 44135222

Qatar Executive

Qatar Airways Office - Airport Road - 44453800

Ralph Lauren

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Ali Bin Ali W & J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Rizon Jet

Behind Doha International Airport - 44991878

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7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 2151

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Ali Bin Ali W & J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Rolex

51 East -Al Maha Center - Salwa Road - 44361111/44257777

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Ali Bin Ali W&J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Schreiner

Ali Bin Ali W & J - Royal Plaza 44131391

Sonia Rykiel

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1801

Sephora

Landmark Shopping Mall 44875222 Villaggio Mall - 44135222

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7 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876

Salvatore Ferragamo

6 La Croissette Porto Arabia -The Pearl Qatar - 44953876 Extn 1941

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N Y T I M E S . C O M / T M AG A Z I N E | M O N T H T K 0 0 , 2 0 0 8

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101

timely

by ali x brow n e

Nerves of Steel

‘‘If the individuals and families most affected during the Great Depression had photographed themselves instead of being shot by government-commissioned photographers,’’ asks the artist LaToya Ruby Frazier, ‘‘what would their own self-representation look like?’’ For the past 10 years, Frazier, 30, who grew up in the blighted steel town of Braddock, Pa., has sought to answer that question, photographing her family — her mother and grandmother in particular. Next month’s Whitney Biennial will include a series of intimate, unflinching self-portraits Frazier took in her grandmother’s house, where she helped care for her step-greatgrandfather (a former steelworker who suffered from multiple, chronic illnesses) and which is now abandoned. ‘‘I witnessed his body decay and crumble,’’ says Frazier, drawing a powerful metaphor for her hometown. ‘‘Without financial resources or better access to health care, I did what came natural. I documented it.’’ 102

etro jacket, Qr9,442. theyskens’ theory dress, price on request. diamond in the rough bracelet, price on request. fashion assistant: Alex tudela. hair by nelson vercher for redken rita hazan at agent oliver. makeup by valery gherman at defacto using dior beauty.

LaToya Ruby Frazier