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2015 Foodservice Professional of the Year
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FOODSERVICE MONTHLY
INSIDE
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The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On Volume 14, No. 1 n January 2015
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Volume 14, Number 1 n January 2015 TM
The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On
news and information
FSM Special Report: Ozzie Yazgan................................................................................................... 8 Association News OCHMRA.......................................................................................................... 11 Foodservice Monthly Leader of the Year: Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen....................................... 12 Association News ACF.................................................................................................................. 14 Association News RAM................................................................................................................. 14 Ad Index...................................................................................................................................... 21
2015 Foodservice ProFessional oF the Year
Spike Gjerde Woodberry Kitchen baltimore
Columns
Presort std. Us Postage PaId PermIt #163 dUlles, Va
Advertiser Spotlight: H&S Bakery.................................................................................................. 17
Sauce on the Side
by Michael Birchenall.................................................. 4
Bob Brown Says
by Bob Brown............................................................. 9
Modern Business Solutions
by Henry Pertman..................................................... 10
On the Cover Spike Gjerde, Woodberry Kitchen … 2015 Foodservice Leader of the Year
The Latest Dish
by Linda Roth........................................................... 16
photo credit: Michael Birchenall
Whining n’ Dining
by Randi Rom .......................................................... 18
Balti-MORE
by Dara Bunjon......................................................... 19
Fork in the Road: Julie Dalton
by Genevieve LeFranc................................................ 20
Food Smarts
by Juliet Bodinetz...................................................... 22
Foodservice Monthly is the only publication to be awarded the RAM Allied Member of the Year award and the RAMW Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year award, the highest honor for a non-restaurant member.
4 n january 2015
FoodService Monthly
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SAUCE ON THE SIDE
Out and About for the New Year
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The pancake cut into fter staying away pizza like wedges was from crowds last year maple encrusted to give during the holiday it an outer sweet crunch season, I certainly while keeping the interior think I fully realized my tender. Win! opportunities in December After concentrating on for 2014 and several the Foodservice Monthly included trips to Baltimore. for the last 13 years, I One Sunday I was having was honored to be in brunch with my friends at Wit & Wisdom in the Four by Michael Birchenall the New Door Creative gallery show 20/10 (20 Seasons Hotel Baltimore artists, 10 years). I was in the first and the next weekend I was at a show and gallery owner Michelle Sunday reception for an art gallery Weatherly asked 20 of us to come New Door Creative celebrating its back for a 10-year retrospective. It 10th anniversary. Now at Wit & Wisdom I managed to get over my was also the first time that my wife and I had been in a show together … phobia about buffet brunches that she had three of her Street Musician developed from working 20 years sculptures included. Too much fun. on Sundays as a F&B manager in hotels. I found the most intriguing A Holiday Party display of pancakes … a large round Sometimes holiday parties can mound that when I saw it decided take on a same old, same old … it couldn’t possible be tasty. Wrong.
but not the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington affair at SAX in DC. It was a little bit of Moulin Rouge, a taste of Vegas and a whole lot of music with flying trapeze action flying over our conversation. A nice, more serene touch was the opportunity for chefs, writers and restaurants to offer their books for sale … many of them autographed right there. But in the end it was a party … a rocking “holiday” party.
Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur I was thrilled to attend the presentation honoring Michel Richard as a Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur by the French Consul General. As Patrick O’Connell said, “It was a well-deserved recognition and happy moment in Washington’s culinary history.” I’ve got another one for my collection of “too cool” things I have done in my life. I don’t have time for a bucket list when there are too many good things happening right in front of me.
Eric Ziebold CityZen has closed. On a Sunday evening in December, friends, family, customers and CityZen “graduates” gathered at Vidalia for a celebration of its ten-year history. Eric will open his own restaurant with his wife Celia in the last quarter of 2015 and from my conversation with him, it
sounds like it will be a showstopper … one that comes with great food, beverage and service. We’ll see how the details of the venture will evolve. Again, it was another evening of good industry people saying thanks to Eric and his team for meals and experiences that remain with us forever. Now, onward to new adventures.
Spike Gjerde Then it was back to Baltimore for my interview with Spike Gjerde … once again not telling the Foodservice Monthly Leader of the Year recipient why they were being interviewed. As I waited for Spike, I was so impressed (I got there at 3 p.m.) how the pre-shift setup came together. They offered me hot cider and cookies. The premeal was served and eaten. Stations were cleaned. Tables set. Areas organized for dinner at five. It was a symphony of orchestrated teamwork … not highfalutin … just working at a place they believed in. Another good day.
And What About You? Here is what I say about 2015 resolutions. Make one: Love the job you do or go find something else that can make you happy! Yes, I am back. Happy New Year!
foodservicemonthly The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On Volume 14, No. 1 n January 2015 Michael Birchenall
Editor and Publisher michael@foodservicemonthly.com
Lisa Silber
Sales Manager lisa@foodservicemonthly.com
by Silver Communications, Corp.
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Foodservice Monthly is published The FSM mission is to provide fessional with news and informa-
Contributing Writers Juliet Bodinetz Celeste McCall tion in an informed, imaginative Bob Brown Amy Novick and insightful newsmagazine. Dara Bunjon Henry Pertman Foodservice Monthly assumes no John Davis Randi Rom responsibility for material submit Tom Finigan Linda Roth ted to us. All information contained Genevieve LeFranc Jay Treadwell in this publication is believed to be accurate. No part of this publica- Contact phone: 703-471-7339 tion may be reproduced in whole or fax: 866-961-4980 in part or transmitted in any form email: info@foodservicemonthly.com without prior permission from the web: www.foodservicemonthly.com publisher of Foodservice Monthly.
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january 2015 n 5
FSM NEWS
NRA Culinary Forecast Predicts Top Menu Trends for 2015
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he National Restaurant Association (NRA) each year gets in the kitchen with chefs to reveal the top menu trends for the coming year. For its annual What’s Hot Culinary Forecast, the NRA surveyed nearly 1,300 professional chefs – members of the American Culinary Federation (ACF) – to find which foods, cuisines, beverages and culinary themes will be hot trends on restaurant menus in 2015.
Top 10 Food Trends for 2015 1. Locally sourced meats and seafood 2. Locally grown produce 3. Environmental sustainability 4. Healthful kids’ meals 5. Natural ingredients/minimally processed food 6. New cuts of meat 7. Hyper-local sourcing 8. Sustainable seafood 9. Food waste reduction/management 10. Farm/estate branded items “As consumers today increasingly incorporate restaurants into their daily lives, they want to be able to follow their personal preferences and philosophies no matter where or how they choose to dine,” said Hudson Riehle, senior vice president of research for the National Restaurant Association. “So, it’s only natural that culinary themes like local sourcing, sustainability and nutrition top our list of menu trends for 2015. Those concepts are wider lifestyle choices for many Americans in other aspects of their lives that also translate into the food space.” “Chefs are committed to supporting their communities and helping make responsible food choices,” said Thomas Macrina, CEC, CCA, AAC, national president of the American Culinary Federation. “I am pleased that members of the American Culinary
Federation continue to support local sourcing and sustainable food practices as an annual trend and are paving the way for these values to become part of everyday American cooking.” On the drink menu, the What’s Hot in 2015 survey predicts the top five alcohol and cocktail trends will be: 1. Micro-distilled/artisan spirits 2. Locally produced beer/wine/ spirits 3. Onsite barrel-aged drinks 4. Regional signature cocktails 5. Culinary cocktails (e.g. savory, fresh ingredients) For the first time, the What’s Hot survey highlights overarching trends to watch in 2015: • Environmental sustainability remains among the hottest trends, with restaurateurs focusing on food waste reduction as a way to both go green and manage rising food costs. • Hyper-local sourcing continues to gain momentum with restaurants including house-made, farmbranded and artisan items. • Children’s meals are becoming increasingly gourmet and healthful, as well as more adventurous in flavor profiles. • Ethnic cuisines are continuing to become more mainstream and ethnic ingredients such as cheeses, flour and condiments are increasingly being used in nonethnic dishes. • Common preparation methods are returning with a new twist, such as pickling with specialty vinegars and fermented flavor profiles. When asked which current food trend will be the hottest menu trends 10 years from now, environmental sustainability topped the list, followed by local sourcing, nutrition and ethnic cuisines and flavors.
The NRA surveyed 1,276 American Culinary Federation members October-November 2014, asking them to rate 231 items as a
“hot trend,” “yesterday’s news,” or “perennial favorite” on menus in 2015. source: NRA
Top Six Restaurant Equipment Repair and Sales Trends in 2015 by Roger Kauffman President, Electric Motor Repair Company (EMR)
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hange happens rapidly in the restaurant industry and 2015 will be no different. Whether you are in the business of kitchen equipment sales, repair or delivery, you’ll want to explore the top six trends in the restaurant industry and position your business for growth and success in the New Year.
Trend #1: Energy efficiency through green equipment Just when you thought the green movement was fizzling out, the restaurant industry will be more active in greening its equipment in 2015. Restaurants are swapping garbage disposals for collection systems, which collect solid waste and use less water in the process. This also eliminates the increase in nitrogen in wastewater produced by those
FSM NEWS Continued on page 6
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FoodService Monthly
FSM NEWS, cont. garbage disposals, which is harmful to waterways. Energy efficient equipment cuts down on power usage, lending a hand to energy conservation goals and reducing overhead.
Trend #2: The Swiss army knife of kitchen equipment As the square footage of kitchen space inches down, the need for equipment to perform multiple functions or provide a variety of cooking methods will be on the rise. Restaurant equipment mangers
will be searching for innovations in compact equipment that can do more without taking up valuable real estate. What does this mean for the service and repair side of the industry? Employing well-trained technicians who are competent in troubleshooting will, as always, be critical. Additional manufacturer factory training for these specialized pieces of equipment will take place.
kitchen managers will continue to utilize third-party management companies to help them track maintenance costs, usage data and response times of their service providers. Being able to visualize – see a firm number – of what restaurants, supermarkets, and any large multi-location business can save on the backend will continue to be a popular trend in 2015.
Trend #3: Tracking, tracking and more tracking
Trend #4: Hot cooking methods
Restaurants and super market
Happy Holidays!
Kitchen equipment managers will be buzzing about new trends in cooking and eating; social cooking, cook to order, healthy but fast options and more. Two specific food trends are Pho and Banh Mi. Equipment such as woks, rice cookers, Mongolian grills, and bun steamers will be added to commercial kitchens, meaning service and maintenance expertise will be required.
Trend #5: Service repair universities Another trend that will become a realization for service companies is developing technical training programs for their employees. Formal training programs that teach
repair techniques for commercial kitchen equipment are few and far between. There’s a serious shortage of skilled kitchen equipment repair technicians, so service companies will be tasked with developing programs to educate and train their repair workforce.
Trend #6: Ordering goes high tech Kitchen equipment managers will leverage the power of technology to help realize cost efficiencies. Restaurants will see in an increase in online ordering and electronic ordering directly from the table. Managers will order equipment and parts online instead of walking into a dealer or local parts department. If equipment suppliers and repair companies don’t have online ordering capabilities in place now they may be at a loss in the New Year. These trends are sure to spur excitement in the New Year, so take time to evaluate your business capabilities and make the necessary adjustments to continue to deliver exceptional products and service to your customers – even as their business shifts.
2015 Culinary Trends Surface in the Acme PAPer & SuPPly Nation’s Capital much more Than Paper
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o say “2014 has been a big year for DC’s dining scene,” is an understatement. This year, according to the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington, a total of 1,328 restaurant licenses were issued, up from an average of 900 per year in the previous three years. As past food trends become mainstream, innovative techniques and creative new trends are taking over, fueled by adventurous Millennials and shifting consumer preferences. Linda Roth Associates, Inc., a leading consulting firm for restaurants since 1982, anticipates the following areas to be at the forefront of DC dining
in the New Year:
Flavor without Fat Old world cooking techniques are new again as haute chefs get creative with skewers, smoke and rotisseries to lend rich flavor to dishes without extra fat and oil in response to diners’ increasing preferences for healthful foods. Think nuance, depth and subtle undertones that can be achieved with aromatic woods and herbs. At Roofers Union in Adams Morgan, Executive Chef Marjorie MeekBradley offers a smoked half Amish chicken, while down the street
FSM NEWS Continued on page 8
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FSM NEWS, cont. Executive Chef Logan McGear of Smoke & Barrel presents a creative take on barbeque with his smoked sausage and smoked duck quarters. Fat-washing, a clever cocktail technique that adds savory flavor to spirits without adding calories, is one way that this trend applies to beverages. By adding a liquid like melted butter to a spirit at room temperature, chilling the mixture and skimming off the solidified fat, the spirit retains the flavors of the fat. Bar Dupont’s Beverage Program Director, Jonathan Yeronick, utilizes fat washing to make a house made butter rum for the bar’s night nurse cocktail.
Restless Palate Syndrome It is no surprise that consumers around the globe grow ever more discerning and experimental as a result of advances in technology, globalism, and speed of light communication. The culinary world is no exception to these increasing demands. New root vegetables, unique sweet and spicy combinations and savory yogurts are just a few remedies for 2015’s restless palate syndrome. Water & Wall’s Thai style catfish with scallions, sugar snaps, shiitake mushrooms and savory caramel is one of Executive Chef Tim Ma’s answers to progressive preferences. At Ripple in Cleveland Park, Executive Chef Marjorie MeekBradley exercises her creative talents with dishes like the stuffed bone marrow with house bacon, chimichurri and apple butter. U Street’s The Fainting Goat surprises guests with a scallop crudo with lobster mushrooms, Asian pear and brown butter, as well as the charred carrots with farro, aged goat cheese and date molasses. Diners can expect their taste buds to be anything but bored.
Showcasing the Origins of Foods Transparency is a popular word in regards to consumer products; diners ask where the foods they consume come from, how they are made and what ingredients they
are made with. In 2015, we will see more restaurants showcasing the origins of ingredients. Nora, America’s first certified organic restaurant, has been leading the transparency effort for years, and dedicates an entire page of the menu to their biodynamic food philosophy. The Chefs Poteaux of Bastille in Old Town, Alexandria, proudly display the names of their local farms on chalkboards in the dining room. Boss Shepherd’s, DC’s new kid on the block, displays their farms similarly. Hilton McLean’s Härth lists local purveyors and the hyper locally sourced ingredients from the on-site rooftop apiary and terrace garden. Diners know they are getting the freshest seasonal ingredients from local farmers as the chalkboard changes weekly. At Ripple, even the wines are listed as organic, biodynamic and/or sustainable.
This popular menu staple has been a longtime foodie favorite, and chefs are challenging themselves to find refreshing new ways to serve it. At 1789 Restaurant, Executive Chef Samuel Kim offers yellowfin tuna crudo with charred loin crudo, chopped belly tartare, white soy sauce emulsion, nori rice puff, cucumbers, avocado puree and pickled ginger. Kapnos chef George Pagonis prepares lamb tartare as a cold mezze with tomato mostarda,
bulgur and labne, adding heart to add more lamb flavor. At Le Diplomat, Executive Chef Michael Abt’s spin on French tartare is an hors d’oeuvre called steak tartare de parc, made with hand chopped filet, capers and quail egg. When it comes to enjoying the subtleties of raw meat dishes, freshly sourced, high quality ingredients are key. Ready for 2015? We are. source: Linda Roth Associates
Serving Maryland, DC, Northern Virginia & Surrounding Areas
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Hybrid Cocktails Creative cocktails may not seem like a revolutionary trend, but mix sirs and mix mistresses (no more “mixologist,” please!), take things to another level this year with everything from herbal liqueurs, to spiked desserts, to tea infused cocktails. Expect to see bartenders migrating into kitchens more often in 2015 to prep ingredients for new crossbreed cocktails; the crazier the hybrid, the better. At Ted’s Bulletin, the adult milkshake provides the best of both worlds with a blend of ice cream, spirits, flavored liqueurs and candy toppings. At Dram & Grain, the “secret” basement speakeasy at Jack Rose Dining Saloon, one of the must-drink cocktails is the ode to Omaha with hickory smoke infused Thomas Tew rum, house made blackberrycinnamon syrup and Jerry Thomas bitters. This craft cocktail even comes served in a corked glass orb, so imbibers can see the swirling smoke before enjoying it.
Different ways to make tartare Creative tartare is at the top of many a national food writer’s list.
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SPECIAL REPORT: SELECTING THE GENERAL CONTRACTOR
Hiring the Lowest Bidder to Build Your New Restaurant — Is It a Mistake?
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ou may have heard it before: “Cheap, Fast, Good – pick two.” I have to admit this is a pretty good rule of thumb to run your business in general – but is it always true? We always want to get the best deal when we want to buy or build something. We’d like to get everything for nothing, if we can get away with it. That’s human nature.
But sometimes, you regret having hired the cheapest General Contractor (GC) or purchasing the cheapest product, don’t you? You might have such regrets for two reasons: either the actual result is less than satisfactory, or you are afraid that at the end, the final outcome will turn out to be less than satisfactory. When you are planning to build a new restaurant, you hire an architect
e PB
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mostly through the word GCs who submit the of mouth or references. most updated information Typically, you’d approach about their company, their the matter by first capacity and track record checking out the architect’s in restaurant construction web site to find out if business. he/she has a portfolio of Check Dun and restaurants designed. Bradstreet (the “credit Once you feel bureau” for businesses) for comfortable with that, you company information. Find BY osman yazgan, president out its credit score and how might go ahead and hire Itek construction the architect without any long the company has been concern. in business. But somehow, all this does not Check references of the GC always apply when it comes to you are considering to hire. Wellhiring the GC who gives you the established companies have good most competitive bid during the references. Contact the references bidding process. Sometimes, a and ask them questions about how general contractor will submit a the GC handled the change orders really competitive bid with the lowest and the construction schedule. overhead cost and profit margin just If you have the time, visit their to get your business. Before getting under-construction job sites or suspicious of the low offer, you completed-project job sites. Such a should consider several factors. personal visit will give you a very First, the reason why the GC offers good idea about how the GC manages you such a low bid might be their the project and the quality with which desire to establish a relationship with they conduct their business. Visiting your growing restaurant chain. To a job site still under construction will get a foot in the door for any future reveal how the GC approaches the opportunities, such contractors might project, how they obey the safety rules be willing to live with a bid that and regulations, and whether they breaks even or yields the slimmest of keep the site clean. A well-organized profit margins. and clean job site is the hallmark of Second, the GC might be going experienced general contractors who through a slow period in the know what they’re doing. business cycle. But instead of laying And lastly, check the company’s off their staff, they might be trying financials. A good reputable GC to keep their good construction must have a strong cash flow and team on the payroll. Thus the cash in hand. You can request a GC might be submitting a very reviewed financial statement. This low-profit bid to keep the team should be another important step in intact and move forward until the your pre-qualification process. business environment improves. If a GC passes all these five tests Such a tactic sometimes works and in flying colors, I’d suggest he sometimes doesn’t. But that can be deserves a serious consideration an excellent opportunity for you as to build your next restaurant. The the restaurant owner to have a new fact that the submitted bid was the unit built at an excellent price. lowest should not be a cause for Here are some concrete steps you can concern but a reason for celebration. take to make sure that you’ll get a great In such a case, the low bid is the new restaurant at a great low price. cherry on top. Create a pre-qualification process When life gives you a chance to before bidding. Select a prehave your cake (a good GC) and eat determined number of contractors it too (lowest price), why hesitate? for consideration. Focus on those Enjoy!
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B BOB BROWN SAYS ...
Tips and Insights from a Tuned-In Bartender
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all it mixology, the bar chef crusade, or the second Golden Age of the Cocktail, there’s no denying the art and science of bartending is upon us. I caught up with Boss Shepard’s bartender, John Miller, to discuss his take on the changing landscape.
glass. Plus, learn to slice through the razor thin pauses in conversation to make suggestions. And, greet guests the instant they arrive to uncover the special what, why, where, and how of their visit.” BY BOB BROWN
Be Brilliant at the Basics and Add Twists “First up is to craft simple, consistent, and balanced classics like the Manhattan, Negroni, and Martini. Fashion new and creative cocktails, too. We came up with the Boss Manhattan using Virginia Copper Fox Rye Whisky softened with cherry wood and balanced with Carpano vermouth and orange and cherry bitters,” remarks John.
Align Your Bar and Food Philosophies “We’ve designed our bar program to match Chef Jerry Waybright’s focus on local, sustainable, and seasonal products. And, just as chef sources from local fisherman, farmers, and ranchers, we partner with local distillers, wineries, and brewers.”
Know Your Audience “We play to an amazing demographic: the law firm crowd, tourists, city-wide convention goers, lobbyists, the mayor and his cronies, Capitol Hill types, and young professionals right out of college. And, although we trend toward food-and-bar educated Millennials, all are appreciative.”
Read and Respond to Cues “Tune into the visual clues. Are your guests dressed up, on a date, having a business meeting, or, is someone sitting by himself with three cellphones and an iMac? The non-verbals guide me to sell a $7 Bud or a $30 dollar shot of Pappy Van Winkle, the Holy Grail of whiskey in a Glencairne tasting
Be a Student of Your Craft
“Check out the online Whisky Advocate. Don’t miss the zany, insightful, blow-yourmind blogs like Booze Nerds, Death to Sour Mix, Rated R Cocktails, Stir and Strain, and Tempered Spirits. Also, peruse the city for cool places like Barrel on 6th and Penn serving craft bourbons and barrel-aged cocktails. Go down Jack Rose with its pre-eminent whiskey list that looks like a New York phone book.”
Tell Stories that Sell “Years ago Rick Wasmund got burned out in the financial trade and packed up and went to Ireland to pursue his passion for Irish Whiskey. After apprenticing at the Bowmore distillery in Scotland on the Isle of Islay, he fine-tuned his craft. He’s the founder and owner of Copper Fox Distillery in Sperryville, Va. He told us it was a good thing
he wasn’t married! Telling the backstory inspires guests to buy.”
Stay Excited “For years, I sold computers and liked the positive effect it had on people’s lives. Now I’m inspired by constantly learning new things, enriching people’s lives, and being
FSM NEWS Continued on page 10
Inst Fre alla e D tion esig Con n an sult d atio ns
Stay Up on Wine “Today’s winery touring lifestyle guests are more educated. To keep pace, we’re constantly fine-tuning our knowledge and salesmanship. Our killer wine program includes training by experts from nearby vineyards in Purcellville, Sperryville, and Culpepper. We tout amazing affordable wines such as Virginia’s refreshing Barboursville Riesling or the smooth Whitehall Cab Franc. A great pairing is our herbal Linden Sauvignon Blanc with our North Carolina Albacore Tuna Salad. Training inspires creativity too, like recommending our signature fried chicken with a glass of Veuve Clicquot Champagne.”
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Don’t Forget Craft Beer “We may only have eight taps, but we make it count with six insider greats brewed within 60 miles of our front door. Two top-rated standouts are the lighter Port City Witte from Alexandria and the Eight Point IPA with a hoppy finish from Devils Backbone Brewery in Roseland, Va.”
4601-A Eisenhower Ave. • Alexandria, Va 22304 703.883.1448 • altohartley.com • showroom@altohartley.com
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MODERN BUSINESS SOLUTIONS
Happy New Year … and Now the Resolutions
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elcome to the New few that we should all be Year and to the able to agree on. new opportunities that lie ahead for Resolution #1: put together you and your business. an employee manual While your mileage Create a manual that may vary, last year was aligns employee behaviors generally considered with your organizational a good one for the culture and core values. foodservice industry. At by HENRY PERTMAN A server manual teaches the time of this writing, upselling and stresses not only do numerous the importance of side industry indices show strong work. Focus the hostess manual on year-over-year financial gains, but engaging customers and setting the analysts anticipate a strong Q4 tone for their experience by smiling, highlighted by a profitable holiday listening, and answering the phone season. Hopefully you not only saw properly. Follow the documentation similar results, but learned a few with focused training to make sure things along the way that made you everyone is on the same page, and smarter about how you are going to provides consistent service whether approach 2015 and ultimately next or not you’re in the restaurant. year’s holiday season. With 2015 forecasted to be Resolution #2: establish checklists another strong year for restaurant You know the routine. The day operators, now is the time to make shift grumbles about the night your New Year’s resolutions to take shift, and the night shift thinks the advantage of the opportunities day shift doesn’t care as much as in front of you. Resolve to take they do, all because they believe the steps necessary to make the other shift isn’t carrying their your customers happier through weight. Increase productivity and improved service. Commit to customer service and put an end making your employees happier to the complaints by standardizing and more productive by creating responsibilities using customized a culture that aligns values and checklists. Stop asking if an employee behaviors so they feel, and employee put toilet paper in the truly are, important. And, of course, men’s room. Instead ask them to see determine to make more money this their completed side work checklist. year than last? So what resolutions can create these revelations? Let me suggest a
BOB BROWN SAYS Continued from page 9 a part of a healthy, responsible, and interesting lifestyle. If you’re not constantly open to new ideas you’ll get left in the dust. But, that’s the joy I take from my passion and
profession. I’ve always strived to live by the words of Poet Robert Frost, to ‘make your vocation your avocation.’” Bob Brown, president of Bob Brown Service Solutions, www.bobbrownss.com,
Reach restaurateurs. Advertise with us! Contact Lisa Silber at 703.471.7339
“In 2015, resolve to make your customers happier and your employees more productive.” Resolution #3: invest in your technology If you are underutilizing that huge investment you made in POS, ask yourself why? The vendor promised you reduced food cost, a reduced labor cost, and real time tools that would make you more efficient, right? Are you getting those benefits out of your investment? Realizing them now may not require spending additional money, but it will require your time, and the time of the people who made the promises. Your POS investment may be a sunk cost, but it can still be money well spent. Resolve to realize the ROI you were expecting, starting NOW.
Resolution #4: get married to your reports
the expensive mistakes you might make and build equally thriving businesses faster and with less effort than you can. Over time, those who embrace these technologies will identify trends and launch not only more locations, but also new concepts as their decision-making will be more timely and accurate. The common thread in these resolutions is proactivity. Don’t think about your New Year’s resolutions as things you would like to do, but instead as commitments on what you will do, and then act to make them a reality. The result will maximize your potential to capitalize on the market opportunities that exist in 2015. Be well and Happy New Year!
Integrate them into your business life and use them to reduce food costs, theft, and labor costs, while simultaneously improving service. If you are not utilizing analytics and mobile apps, you are genuinely still in the stone ages compared to the young “whipper snappers” who embrace the cloud, and manage using real time, actionable reports. Over the long term, they will avoid
Henry Pertman is Director, Hospitality Consulting at CohnReznick. Located in the firm’s Baltimore, Md. office, Henry specializes in front- and back-of the-house management and training, business analytics, point-of-sale maximization, hospitality marketing, food and beverage controls, inventory management, customer service training, and kitchen flow. 410-783-4900, henry.pertman@cohnreznick.com
pioneered Marriott’s Service Excellence Program and has worked with clients such as Disney, Hilton, Morton’s of Chicago, Nordstrom, Olive Garden, and Red Lobster and works internationally with the prestigious hotels such as Burj Al Arab in Dubai. He has appeared on the Food Network
and Hospitality Television and is author of bestselling The Little Brown Book of Restaurant Success and The Big Brown Book of Managers’ Success. ©Bob Brown Service Solutions 2014. Contact Bob for the new DVD “The 8 Keys of Dining Sales Success,” 703-726-9020.
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FOODSERVICE MONTHLY
january 2015 n 11
The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On
ASSOCIATION NEWS OCHMRA
OCHMRA Receives Two Key Awards at Annual Maryland Tourism and Travel Summit
M
ore than 200 tourism industry professionals recently convened for the 34th Annual Tourism and Travel Summit sponsored by the Maryland Tourism Coalition (MTC) and the Maryland Office of Tourism Development (OTD) and held this year in Ocean City. Two keys awards were awarded Ocean City tourism representatives. The Maryland Tourism Council awarded the Cooperative Marketing Partnership to the Wallops Island Project; partners: Maryland Office of Tourism Development, Worcester County Tourism, StateVentures, LLC, Ocean City Hotel Motel & Restaurant Association, Ocean City Tourism, Ocean City Chamber of Commerce, Somerset County Office of Tourism, and Wicomico County Office of Tourism. The Maryland Office of Tourism awarded its
Leadership Award to Greg Shockley, chair of the Maryland Tourism Development Board.
Planning Ahead: Halloween 2015 Frank Miller and Brenda Moore from the Town of OC Special Events joined our meeting to discuss further developing Halloween events. Currently, Bob Rothermel and Jack Hennen produce OCToberfest featuring the Beach Maze, Great Pumpkin Race and the Pet Parade. The idea is to expand these two weekends in October to offer visitors non-stop activity. Jolly Rogers and Trimpers are willing to open their Haunted Houses and the breezeway going up to the pier will be slated to offer Halloween themed games produced by local non-profits. A fantasy forest made the discussion as did a haunted
boardwalk tram ride. Restaurants could feature pumpkin ale products and pairings, hotels can develop packages. The key is to collaborate and partner and to feature all Halloween events in one marketing package so visitors can make a weekend out of it. If you have any ideas or thoughts, please share with our office.
Board Member Spotlight: John Lewis John Lewis’s roots began in Ocean City. In fact, his family has been in charter boat business at Talbot Street since the 1930’s. His father, Lloyd Lewis, worked for the family in the 50’s, and in the 70’s purchased the Talbot Street pier from his family’s estate. From there, John did what many young Ocean City boys did back in the day; he worked as a “dock boy” at the ripe age of 10 and was running
boats by 19. He was in the first class at Worcester Country School when it opened in 1970. After completing college, John leased and operated the White Marlin Marina for 16 seasons, as he continued to work with family in and around Talbot Street. In 1982, John helped drive the nails into the new outdoor gazebo bar, MR Ducks, which remains a staple with locals and visitors. In addition to helping with daily operations of Talbot Inn and M.R. Ducks, his duties include overseeing of Talbot Street Watersports – the Duckaneer Pirate Ship, Happy Hooker bay fishing, the Assateague Adventure, Explorer and the OC Rocket. He and his wife Kathleen have two children, Alexandra who is in her second year of law school and John Jr. who is a senior at Salisbury University. In his spare time, John is an Eastern shore boy at heart as he loves to fish and hunt.
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12 n january 2015
F
oodservice Monthly printed its first issue in 2002 with its dedicated mission to report on and support the foodservice industry of the Mid-Atlantic. After five years, in 2007, we decided it was time to recognize the excellence driven heroes of the industry – the leaders who make a difference in our hospitality world. As Foodservice Monthly turns thirteen, our Mid-Atlantic trade newsmagazine for the foodservice professional sees the hospitality landscape as one of great opportunity. On a national, regional, state and local level the challenges are ever present in tough economic and political times. But through the leadership of the people who make our marketplace so vibrant, our segment of the hospitality world has grown and the future is bright. It takes special leaders to dedicate their work to making sure the moving parts go in the direction of long-term success for our industry and businesses. For 2015 we recognize that leader: Spike Gjerde, chef/partner Woodberry Kitchen, Artifact Coffee, Shoo-Fly and Parts & Labor. Spike is partner with his wife Amy. In the 1980s, United Technologies Corporation had an advertising campaign where they shared messages of corporate and personal keys to success. One in particular has stayed with me throughout the years and I used it as a source of motivation while I managed food and beverage departments in my hotel days. It was called, “Let’s Get Rid of Management.” It began, “People don’t want to be managed. They want to be led. Whoever heard of a world manager? World leader, yes.” The point was made, they lead; they don’t manage. Quite simply, “If you want to manage somebody, manage yourself.” When I talked to Spike Gjerde recently at Woodberry Kitchen, it became clear that contrary to all the publicity and the flocking to the local sourcing mantra his restaurants are not concept or “farm-to-table” driven. Gjerde said, “Our intent is to provide support to the local food system.” He said it became clear
The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On
2015 Foodservice Professional of the Year
Spike Gjerde Woodberry Kitchen Baltimore
to him when he was working in one of his earlier restaurants with a Latin themed menu. “Every time I cut open a mango, it was a peach I couldn’t buy from grower Dave Reed,” said Gjerde. Spike Gjerde has been a prominent part of Baltimore’s restaurant community since he opened Spike & Charlie’s with his
Even the bar has its own bitters and tinctures.
brother in 1991. The restaurant was Spike’s first opportunity to cultivate his relationships with local growers and their seasonal products — something that would be an integral aspect of all of his culinary endeavors over the next 20 years. Along with his wife, Amy, Spike opened Woodberry Kitchen in 2007, evolving his commitment to
FoodService Monthly sustainable operations and working closely with more than 60 different farmers and growers throughout the Chesapeake Bay and Mid-Atlantic regions, who supply the restaurant with beef, bison, lamb, chicken, eggs, oysters, shrimp, cheeses, and a majority of its produce. Spike is also a member of the Chesapeake Sustainable Business Alliance, which educates the public on the importance of supporting the local economy, and encourages businesses and consumers to be environmentally sustainable and socially responsible. For the farmer, Spike believes, No Heinz here as “Agriculture staff at WK does should be some “sidework” profitable on their bottling. land.” During the interview, one of the chefs, Opie Crooks, brought out a new work in progress to further utilize the full animal in the kitchen. It was a blend of butter and beef tallow to use as a flavor enhancer on beef based dishes. And then to get Gjerde going, you just have to mention ver jus … the juice of green grapes that have an acidity to compete with the juice of lemons. Currently he is developing a recipe for a Dijon-style mustard the way it used to be made in France with ver jus … only this will be a Maryland-made mustard with a name to be determined. Canning and preserving takes place at Shoo-Fly and you can see walls of canned tomatoes from the summer harvest in Woodberry Kitchen that will take them through the winter. The butchering operation is found at Parts & Labor. Yes, the evolution of the spirit of Spike Gjerde is ever evolving and the commitment is boundless. When I entered his meat walk-in cooler, he asked, “Do you see any labels?” No boxed meats here … all local, all house trimmed and broken down. This is not a trend; this is a way of life. Spike Gjerde can lead. I can follow him to the dining room table for some good food.
wheat to web
H&S Bakery is committed to more than just creating over 200 hearth-baked varieties of tempting, tasty and healthy breads, rolls and specialty items. We maintain a full-service website that allows our customers selection and service at their fingertips with fast online ordering, product information and a glimpse into the close ties we enjoy with our community. To order, visit our website www.hsbakery.com or call 800.769.2253
Variety, Service & Quality Family owned and operated since 1943 Our products are baked daily and delivered 5 days a week
www.hsbakery.com
1.800.769.BAKE
14 n january 2015
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FoodService Monthly
ASSOCIATION NEWS RAM
ProStart: A Personal MPSI Experience by Crystal R. Carr, RAMEF ProStart Coordinator
I
t was a frigid February morning in 2007. My culinary team was cooking feverishly under the watchful eyes of judges and spectators peering overhead from bleachers. My team had met after school twice a week to practice our knife skills and scrutinize every detail of our three-course menu … and we won the Maryland ProStart Student Invitational (MPSI)! From that point on, we increased our intensity to prepare for nationals, overcoming obstacles such as a team member getting impaled through the foot by a chef’s knife and another member getting food poisoning the weekend of the event. But all the hard work and planning paid off, as we placed 5th in the nation at the National
ProStart Invitational (NPI). For over a decade, the Maryland ProStart Student Invitational has been showcasing the talent of aspiring professionals from high schools across the country. Developed by the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation (NRAEF), the ProStart program is a nationwide system of high school restaurant and foodservice courses linked together with mentored work experiences. MPSI has grown to be a premier event with vigorous competitions, a College & Career Fair, and a prestigious Awards Reception. There’s a lot on the line. Professionals from leading culinary schools and foodservice establishments around the nation travel to the competition to judge the efforts of six Management teams, 13 Culinary teams, and
dozens of Cake Decorating competitors. And in 2014, students competed for a pool of over $1 million dollars in scholarship opportunities. This year, the 11th Annual MPSI will be held on February 25 – 26 at the Sheraton Columbia Town Center Hotel. The Management Competition requires teams to create a detailed business proposal for a new restaurant concept, and then make a presentation to a panel of judges who act as potential investors. The Culinary Competition teams will have one hour to create an appetizer, entrée and dessert. Judges score each team on such things as proper food safety and sanitation procedures, knife skills, menu difficulty and taste. And for the first time, MPSI will also feature a Cake Decorating competition.
ACF’s 2015 Signature Series ‘ChefConnect’ Comes to Baltimore Who: The American Culinary Federation, Inc., (ACF) a professional member organization for chefs and foodservice professionals in North America with the host chapters Nation’s Capital Chef’s Association and the Greater Baltimore Chapter. The Host Chefs Rich Hoffman, CEC, CCA, WCC East Division Executive Chef and Director of Culinary Hospitality for Genesis Healthcare Hoffman is currently the ACF state representative for Maryland and Delaware and serves as the president of the ACF Greater Baltimore Chapter Inc.
Elena M. Clement, CEPC Owner, The Guiding Knife and Perfect Pastries Clement is a currently executive director of ACF Nation’s Capital
Chef’s Association, as well as a member of Les Dames d’Escoffier International, Washington, D.C., Chapter.
Carlos Gomez Executive Chef, Baltimore Marriott Waterfront
What: ACF Signature Series presents ChefConnect: Baltimore The events will include seminars, cooking demonstrations and hands-on workshops, as well as networking opportunities.
Where/When: ChefConnect: Baltimore will take place Feb. 15–17 at the Baltimore Marriott Waterfront. Experience the city’s signature dishes and ingredients from award-winning chefs, restaurants and local breweries.
Register: ChefConnect events are open to the public. To learn more about the schedule and registration
options, visit www.acfchefs.org/ events. Early registration rates are available. The American Culinary Federation, Inc. (ACF), established in 1929, has nearly 20,000 members spanning 200 chapters nationwide. ACF is a culinary leader in offering educational resources, training, apprenticeship and programmatic accreditation. ACF is home to ACF Culinary Team USA, the official representative for the United States in major international culinary competitions, and to the Chef & Child Foundation, founded in 1989 to promote proper nutrition in children and to combat childhood obesity. For more information, visit www.acfchefs. org. Find ACF on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ACFChefs and on Twitter @ACFChefs.
Each student from the top three teams in both competitions will be awarded medals and scholarships to pursue their hospitality careers. The first place teams in both culinary and management will represent Maryland at NPI on April 18 – 20 at the Disneyland Hotel in Anaheim, Calif. You may wonder why it’s worth your time to get involved with ProStart. Industry professionals become ProStart mentors, judges and teachers because they have a desire to give back to the industry that has given them their livelihood. Their careers are reinvigorated with the energy they feel when working with young men and women who share their passion. It’s an experience that can remind you why you entered the industry yourself, and how important it is to pass your knowledge down to the next generation. My story is just one of a growing collection of alumni doing great things. It wasn’t until that cold February morning at MPSI that my parents understood the career I was pursuing. I knew that my passion and future was in the restaurant industry, but they had to see me in action to see the restaurant industry as I did … one of passion, opportunity and respect. And I have now come full circle – I am the ProStart Coordinator of Maryland.
We Need Your Help and Support! Sponsorships for MPSI are available at levels from $50 to $15,000. By sponsoring MPSI, you help make the competitions possible and give these students a shot at having an experience like mine. For more information, contact Crystal R. Carr at RAMEF: 410-290-6800 x1006, crystal@ramef.org or visit www. marylandrestaurants.com/mpsi
The Maryland Wholesale Produce and Seafood Markets are the places to find the freshest variety of produce and seafood. Visit our website for more information.
The Maryland Wholesale Produce & Seafood Markets in Jessup, MD Produce: 410-799-3880 | Seafood: 410-799-0141
16 n january 2015
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FoodService Monthly
THE LATEST DISH
Two-Minute Pies Makes Fast Casual ‘Pizza Studio’ … Fast! a few more restaurants in Pizza Studio plans to 2015 including Summer open two personalized fast House Santa Monica in N. casual pizza restaurants Bethesda at Pike & Rose. this month. It’s a gourmet It’s a California-inspired pizza-quick-casual-createAmerican restaurant your-own pizza-cooked— not to be confused in-two-minutes concept. with Summer House in They will be the first Rehoboth Beach, Del. Stella locations for the company Barra Pizzeria, serving in the DC and Baltimore by Linda Roth artisanal pizza, small plates metro areas. The DC and handcrafted pastries store will open in Dupont and breads is also slated for Pike & Circle where Baja Fresh was. The Rose. RPM, a modern chef-driven Baltimore location is in Charles steakhouse will open in DC. Joe’s Village near the Johns Hopkins Seafood Prime Steak and Stone University campus. The principals, Crab is their most recent entry into who now reside in California, have the DC market, as they celebrate one local connections – Samit Varma used to live in Rockville and partner year the end of January. Bo Blair plans to open another Ron Biskin lived in Owings Mills. Surfside, a fast casual restaurant, Chicago-based Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises loves the DC in Dupont Circle this month. The first one is in Glover Park. His new metro area and has plans to open
southern concept, Due South, is slated to open in the Lumbershed Building at Navy Yard in Q3 2015. Rusty Holman is tapped to be executive chef. He has worked for Bo at Bayou in the West End. Next up for Bo in this area is a Millie’s which should open in Spring Valley. The original Millie’s is in Nantucket. Perhaps not the same amazing seaside view, but the same menu. Will the new restaurant that Jose Andres will open at the new Trump International Hotel, (where the Old Post Office was) be anything like his Bazaar at SLS Hotel in LA? That concept takes over much of the lobby and has various rooms that make up the entire dining experience. Stay tuned. Jose Garces may be opening a 20,000 sq.ft. market that will offer a range of Latin groceries and prepared foods in NE DC’s NoMa neighborhood. It will be located in a new 520-unit residential building. It’s not the Philadelphia-based chef’s first venture in this market, as he opened Rural Society in the Loews Madison Hotel last summer.
Quick Hits Charlottesville-based Greenberry’s coffee shop plans to open in downtown DC on the corner of 18th and E St. NW … Potomac’s Grilled Oyster Co. will open a 4100-sq.ft. seafood restaurant at the new Cathedral Commons development on Wisconsin Avenue NW. The original location is at Cabin John Mall in Montgomery Co. … Liam
LaCavita, former chef at Liberty Tavern, Lyon Hall and Northside Social, plans to open Bar Civita in Woodley Park where Murphy’s was at 2609 24th St. NW. The restaurant will serve Modern American food. A Q1 2015 opening is planned. David Guas’ Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar & Eatery in Arlington is opening a second location in DC at 921 Pennsylvania Ave, SE. Renovation of a two-story carriage house, translates to a 53-seat restaurant on the first floor and a kitchen on the second floor with seating for 36 in the summer garden.
Chef Update Frank Ruta, formerly of the now closed Palena takes over as head chef of The Grill Room at the Capella Hotel in Georgetown. His pastry chef from Palena, Aggie Chin, will join him at Capella. Will Greenwood will be taking over at Elizabeth’s Gone Raw in DC.
Openings Update China Chilcano in Penn Quarter is slated to open in early January, featuring Peruvian dishes with influences from Creole, Chinese and Japanese cuisines. And pisco – lots of it … Tadich Grill is now expecting to open in late February/early March. Linda Roth is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. specializing in marketing, promotions and publicity in the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703-417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her website at www.lindarothpr.com
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FOODSERVICE MONTHLY
The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On
january 2015 n 17
ADVERTISER SPOTLIGHT
H&S Bakery Delivers More Than Bread: 16 Autogas Trucks Support Sustainability Initiative
H&S
Bakery “Delivers on Sustainability Efforts” ceremony to celebrate H&S Bakery’s adoption of clean-burning, domestically produced propane autogas vehicles was recently held at its distribution center in Baltimore. The family-owned company has added 16 autogas delivery trucks to support its bread delivery operations in Maryland and surrounding states. In addition to dignitary speeches and a key handoff ceremony, H&S Bakery’s new ROUSH CleanTech Ford F-59 delivery trucks fueled by propane autogas were on display. The event was held at H&S Bakery’s new distribution center on 62nd St. in Baltimore City, which has received two Green Stars through the Baltimore City Green Building Standards. A refueling demonstration at the new onsite station followed with Baltimore mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake
JR Paterakis is ready to go for a spin with Mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake.
Mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake fuels one of H&S Bakery’s trucks. photo: shawnpaterakisphotography.com
participating. “We want our customers and community to know that we are investing in them and working hard to meet our sustainability goals,” said Chuck Paterakis, vice president of transportation and logistics for H&S Baking. “With propane autogas, we’re doing just that with a domestically produced fuel that lowers emissions across our delivery area.” Funded in part by a Maryland Clean Cities Coalition grant from the Maryland Energy Administration, the autogas fleet will reduce carbon monoxide emissions by 60 percent, nitrogen oxide by 20 percent and greenhouse gases by up to 25 percent compared to gasoline. Over its lifetime, each of H&S Bakery’s ROUSH CleanTech Ford F-59 trucks will eliminate about 117,000 pounds of carbon dioxide emissions from the company’s carbon footprint. The company has installed a private refueling station that includes an 18,000-gallon
photo: shawnpaterakisphotography.com
underground propane tank. “Propane autogas provides an economic, environmental and competitive advantage for America’s industry leaders like H&S Bakery,” said Todd Mouw, vice president of sales and marketing for ROUSH CleanTech, the manufacturer of the autogas fuel system. “With the adoption of autogas, H&S reduces fuel and maintenance costs, and helps lessen Maryland’s reliance on imported oil.” H&S Bakery is a family-owned and operated leader in traditional European flavor and crust, has been a long-standing provider of niche specialty goods for over 70 years. Based in Baltimore, H&S Bakery produces customized fresh and frozen private label programs for European hearth-baked specialty bread products such as rolls, bagels and English Muffins, for restaurant and supermarket giants. H&S Bakery and its affiliates are comprised of 14 divisions operating in seven states, with distribution in 23 states.
18 n january 2015
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FoodService Monthly
WHINING ’N DINING
Troia Opens Plantbar … More than Juice, It’s a ‘Wellness Hub’ York. Zia’s wholesale Daniela Troia, product line includes Executive Chef/Owner savory and sweet raw at Zia’s Café in Towson foods that are made opened Plantbar fresh from local organic Powered by Zia’s – a produce and packaged juice, smoothie and the morning of delivery. elixir bar and produce “People want to be stand, located in The healthy — it’s not enough Belvedere Square Market to go to the gym,” said in the spot previously by RANDI ROM Troia. “Plant Bar is occupied by Planet more than a juice bar, Produce. In 2005, Troia it’s a wellness hub.” Plantbar opened Zia’s Café which offers will partner with local wellness healthy food including options mentors including nutritionists, for Paleo enthusiasts to vegans, health coaches and holistic health vegetarians and raw foodists. counselors, to name a few and Shortly after opening their doors, offer wellness workshops and local businesses took interest in cooking demonstrations. Plantbar Daniela’s creations and began specialties include made-to-order requesting her products at their and create your own juices, super markets. Since then, the Zia’s food smoothies, wellness shots, wholesale line has taken off, elixirs and acai power bowls. In expanding out of Maryland into addition, customers can purchase Virginia, Pennsylvania, and New
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Pappas Restaurant opened in the Cranbrook Shopping Center in Cockeysville. This is the third property for the family-owned business, which boasts locations in Parkville and Glen Burnie and offers carryout, catering and shipping of their award winning (eight-ounce, colossal lump crab meat) crab cakes and seafood. The kitchen is open until 1 a.m. every day; popular dishes include Chicken Chesapeake, Stuffed Shrimp with Crab Imperial, steaks and build your own pasta dishes. Guests can also enjoy a host of specials in the sports bar including $1oysters and live music. PappasCrabCakes.com
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wellness add ons such as Gogi powder, sprouted rice protein powder, hemp seeds and bee pollen and more. The Plant Bar produce stand will provide fresh fruits and vegetables, locally sourced, whenever possible. “We are excited to continue to nourish our community with truly healthy food,” said Troia. Plant-Bar.com
The BoatHouse Waterfront Grille in Canton – a beautiful property with warm, inviting indoor and outdoor spaces – introduced a new menu created by Executive Chef Matt Campbell. Tasty treats include Cornmeal Battered Oysters, Crab Cakes, Sautéed Mussels, Hanger Steak and Frites, Flatbreads, to name a few. Chef Matt was bitten by the culinary bug early … landing an apprenticeship at age 16 at the famed Boar’s Head Inn in Charlottesville where renowned Chef Alex Montiel invited the 18-year-old novice to help execute at the nation’s preeminent culinary event, the James Beard Foundation Benefit Dinner, in New York. Now – at The BoatHouse, Chef
Campbell describes his cooking style as that of a chameleon, mixing his own preferences with those that his client base can relate to. MY fave part of The Boathouse? The BH Grill! It’s their dog friendly outdoor patio, pavilion bar and soft seating arbor area that features an outdoor grilling kitchen and live music stage. During the winter months, the patio is covered and you and your fur babies can enjoy drinks, lunch, snacks, or light dinner as well as daily Raw Bar selections. BoatHouseCanton.com Ware House 518, located at 518 North Charles Street in downtown Baltimore, rolled out a new MasonDixon-inspired, contemporary American fare menu. New entrées are Local Duck, with autumn mash and Soy-peppercorn jus; Creekstone Farm New York Strip with grilled asparagus and roasted garlic and a Dr. Pepperglazed Berkshire Pork Chop with red skin mashed potatoes and braised greens. “Twenty flavorful dishes in all are offered on our new menu,” says Ware House 518 co-owner, Ezra Tilaye. “We have kept some ‘fan’ favorites – such as our shrimp and grits and Rockfish entrées – and complemented them by adding new items, expanding on what is available to us fresh and locally,” said Tilaye. “Guests can expect that we will also change up our menu seasonally,” says Executive Chef Christopher Vocci. “Approximately three to four times a year we will challenge ourselves to create compelling dishes that showcase local, fresh and in-season – and always with our own ‘take’ on it.” Warehouse518.com Randi Rom is a Baltimore special events planner, marketing and public relations maven, freelance writer and head of R.J. Rom & Associates. Have a hot scoop? Contact Randi via email at randirom@comcast.net or phone at 443-691-9671.
FOODSERVICE MONTHLY
january 2015 n 19
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Balti-MORE
When Local Food and Wine Meet
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Rob Deford, left, and Winston Blick
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by Dara Bunjon
estaurateur and chef Winston Blick of Clementine collaborated with Rob Deford, president and co-owner of Maryland’s Boordy Vineyards at a luncheon that emphasized the beauty and grace of the marriage of local fare with local wine; crab and mustard devil eggs and Maryland crab soup with Boordy’s Chardonnay Reserve 2013, hickory smoked and stuffed ham with greens with Boordy’s Landmark Dry Rosé 2013 and Maryland white potato pie with nutmeg with Boordy’s Eisling 2013. One can find Boordy wines at Clementine and Clementine’s catering at select times at Boordy Vineyards.
clementine 5402 harford road Baltimore, md 21214 410-444-1497 clementinebaltimore.com @bmoreclementine boordy vineyards 12820 long green pike hydes, md 21214 boordy.com 410-592-5015 @boordyvineyards
Dara Bunjon: Dara Does It – Creative Solutions for the Food Industry offers a myriad of services: public relations, social media training and administration, freelance writing, marketing and more. Contact Dara Bunjon at 410-486-0339, info@dara-doesit.com or visit www.dara-does-it.com, Twitter and Instagram: @daracooks Listen to her Dining Dish radio program on Baltimore Internet Radio.
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20 n DECEMber 2014
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FORK IN THE ROAD
Julie Dalton: Passion, Persistence and Loyalty … and All Around Gal
S
enjoy about studying ommelier, scientist, science is how black and MBA, server, and white it is, how things are all around gal classified. Maybe that’s about Baltimore, what I love about studying Julie Dalton is the wine. personification Then I worked on the of a Renaissance Human Genome Project at woman. Currently Baylor College of Medicine delighting guests and for nine months and was sparking palates at Michael absolutely miserable. My Mina’s Wit & Wisdom at BY GENEVIEVE Lefranc saving grace … I was the Four Seasons Hotel waiting tables on the side, Baltimore, Julie is as quick again, and loved it. I would upsell with a charming joke as she is with every table with wine and it was a Champagne recommendation. just way more fun. When I moved Dalton prides herself on stripping the snob stigma from wine, although to Maryland for my first “real job” I worked in sales for a molecular you’d never guess it from her biology products company that accolades. She serves as a Certified offered a tuition reimbursement Wine Educator, is in the process of program, so I earned an MS in biotech completing her Diploma in Wine and an MBA simultaneously at Johns and Spirits through the Wine & Spirits Education Trust, and won the Hopkins. It took me five years but it 2012 Ruinart blind tasting challenge didn’t really matter, I was just doing it as a backup. in Washington, DC. Most recently, Dalton won a Rising Star award Can you describe your pathway to from StarChefs and is working becoming a sommelier? toward her Master Sommelier A friend of mine was opening Diploma through the Court of Ranazul Tapas and Wine Bistro in Master Sommeliers to boot. Fulton, Md. I asked him why he Working with integrity, discipline, was opening without a sommelier and an unmatched passion for her and he said, “Julie, I thought you’d craft, Julie Dalton is an excellent never ask.” And I said, “I cant. I sommelier, a fascinating person and have a full time job and I’m in grad a professional. Here is a glimpse at school. I can’t possibly be your the rich, full-bodied personality of sommelier too.” He said, “Yes you Baltimore’s Julie Dalton. can. Make your own hours, make
What first sparked your interest in wine and pursuing a career with wine? My interest was sparked while waiting tables at Gaido’s in Galveston, Texas. There was a female sommelier, which I thought was so cool. We tasted all the wines by the glass and I never knew that cabernet tasted different from red zinfandel or what that really even meant, so I bought Wine for Dummies. I just kept reading it over and over again and wine kind of chose me. The career never occurred to me until much later. Tell us about your education. I attended Texas A&M for my undergraduate degrees in marine biology and entomology. What I
the wine program, it’s all up to you.” That experience was truly a gift. I happened to be in the right place at the right time, and knew more about wine than he did and he trusted me. It was a lot of hours, but even after working a full day I couldn’t wait to get to Ranazul. People kept referring to me as the ‘sommelier’ but I refused to accept the title, one because I felt it sounded too snobby and two I didn’t have any formal training or certification. I didn’t want to go through the “courts” process of formally becoming a sommelier, because I thought being a sommelier meant being snobby. I want wine to be approachable for everyone.
His Excellency Ramon Gil-Casares, Ambassador of Spain to the United States and Julie Dalton at the StarChefs award ceremony in Washington. But everyone kept calling me the sommelier so I figured I had to do it. I ended up absolutely loving the Introductory Course and immediately registered for the Certified Sommelier Exam. I was hooked. Why Baltimore? What do you love about this city? I love that it’s not over-tapped with wine snobs. That you can go to a table and people are genuinely willing to listen to you, they’re not as judgmental as clientele in New York or San Francisco. This market has a lot to learn and many are willing to learn. What food and wine trends are you noticing? I feel like wine is almost not cool anymore. Cocktails and artisanal beers are hot right now so I feel as though my biggest struggle is to work to keep wine relevant. We have bartenders who are getting the same praise, if not more, than sommeliers, and a lot of that is because there’s a creative aspect to cocktail making. Being a sommelier there is creativity in food and wine pairing, but it’s challenging to stay
relevant in this competitive world, especially because not everyone cares about food and wine pairing. What wine producing countries do you favor and why? I favor France. It’s just the classics; it’s what everything else stems from. When you think of what’s popular in the U.S., it’s chardonnay and cabernet. People making wine in this country originally looked to their French counterparts as a measure of excellence. Which wines do you love and why? Champagne, because it’s so versatile and malleable with food. I don’t know of any other wine that I can put in my mouth and instantly feel happiness from the inside out. I don’t mean to make a pun here but you feel it bubbling up from the inside. I smell it and immediately I get excited. It’s a wine that evokes a smile so easily. What people don’t realize is how many different Champagnes there are and how they can match so well with food. How many wines do you taste on average per day?
FORK IN THE ROAD Continued on page 21
FOODSERVICE MONTHLY
The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On
january 2015 n 21
FOOD SMARTS
New Year: Time to Revise Your Menu Consumer Advisory Wording … For Real
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to the general public. appy New Year Examples would be: raw everyone! Food or undercooked fish or safety is always an meat, unpasteurized juice, important topic in alfalfa sprouts, eggs over our business and I always easy, raw shellfish, and like to believe that your items containing raw egg yearly training is being as an ingredient. What this worked into your yearly means is that you need to budget as part of your print a consumer advisory New Year. You might also by Juliet Bodinetz on your menu. be considering revamping There are several ways to word and reprinting your menus at this your consumer advisory. Until time of year. Let me help you. recently, most establishments have As food operators we recognize posted a standard all-encompassing that there are some foods that consumer advisory such as: “Those in we sell, while delicious, do not actually meet the critical limits with high risk populations, i.e., the elderly, pregnant women, young children respect to food safety; and are not or sick — please consult with your in compliance with FDA food code physician before consuming raw or recommendations when prepared. undercooked meat, poultry, seafood, These foods would be recognized as high-risk foods not only to those shellfish or eggs.” In Maryland, the Baltimore City in high-risk populations, but also
Health Department is asking that the consumer advisories be more specific and not only print the consumer advisory, but also place an asterisk next to each food item considered high risk on your menu. Generally, my experience is that once one agency makes a change, all others follow suit. If you are revamping your menu and have items on your menu that are raw or undercooked, you will need to indicate clearly on the menu which items fall in this category. I suggest you word your advisory as follows: “Consuming raw or undercooked animal foods may increase your risk of contracting a foodborne illness, especially if you have certain medical conditions. *This item is served raw or undercooked or contains raw or
FORK IN THE ROAD cont. from page 20
Les Mesnil in Cotes des Blanc. It’s a vineyard of 70 plus year-old chardonnay vines. Then I would have the tuna steak with seared foie gras from the Inn at Little Washington and a red Burgundy sauce, with a Vosne-Romanee Les Suchots 1er Cru. For dessert, a Rosé de Saignée Champagne – probably René Geoffroy.
Last night? Fifty. We taste everything before we serve it. Tonight I’ll probably taste 25. But it can be anywhere from 10 to 50. Why do people tend to think that red wines are superior to whites? That really bothers me so much! The wines getting all the points are massively tannic and huge fruit bombs, so people think in order to be taken seriously you can only drink those wines. I like wines that whisper. People are a bit insecure when it comes to wine. Once people realize that sommeliers drink a lot of white wine they think, oh well then, it must be OK. What analogy do you use to describe the relationship between food and wine? I tend to anthropomorphize. I’ll say “This is a Tango,” or sometimes I’ll describe a certain chardonnay as “Gwyneth Paltrow” or “Adele.” Pairings are all about relationships, so to describe the way things match I’ll say, “This is a marriage” or “This one’s a rocky start but later on they’re really going to love each other.” Or, because sometimes
it takes a while for the wine to open up, I’ll say, “Right now the wine is a little cranky from its four year nap, give it a minute and the food will help coax it out of bed.” Anthropomorphizing is important because people can relate to people; they don’t necessarily know how to relate to terms like “tannic.” What is your favorite food and wine pairing? Champagne and potato chips. I discovered this after work one night when I had an open bottle of Champagne and the only food store open was a CVS. If I have a rough night and want to put a smile on my face I’ll get Lay’s Kettle Cooked and whatever Champagne I feel like opening. Salty and crunchy loves bubbles. It’s kind of like pop rocks. For me texture is so important in a food and wine pairing. It’s a fun amalgamation of texture. For me texture is so important in a food and wine pairing. If you were on death row, what would be your last meal? I’d start with a dozen Kumamoto oysters with Pierre Peters’ Les Chetillons, a Champagne from
Do you enjoy beer or cocktails? Absolutely. I prefer gin, so I love The Last Word or a Negroni. I like gin and tonic with cardamomflavored bitters, and I’ll drink Scotch whisky on occasion. I generally go for darker, hoppier kinds of beers. A lot of my preferences are bitter, so I think I like bitter things … I do drink my coffee black. What is the best way to learn more about wines without having to buy bottles and bottles of it? Ask questions and listen. Open your mind. Read Wine for Dummies! I do! To this day, I still reference it. The pages are falling out! It’s my favorite. If you could share a bottle of wine with anyone in the world, who would
undercooked ingredients.” Then place the asterisk (*) next to each menu item that fits this category. For further information in Maryland, COMAR, check Section F for specific details. www. dsd.state.md.us/comar/getfile. aspx?file=10.15.03.10.htm Happy New Year from all of us at BHTS. Juliet Bodinetz-Rich is the executive director of Bilingual Hospitality Training Solutions and has over 25 years industry and training experience. Her team of instructors’ specialty is food safety, alcohol training and ServSafe training in English or in Spanish and writing HACCP Plans in the Baltimore and Washington D.C. Metro Area. www.bilingualhospitality.com, juliet@bilingualhospitality.com or 443-838-7561. For Latest Food Safety Tips: Become a Fan on Facebook or Twitter: @BHTS
it be and why? My father—he died when I was 10. I’d want him to see why I feel I was born. What do you consider key to your success? Passion, persistence and loyalty. Final thoughts? Had I had started back when I first fell in love with wine, maybe I’d be a master sommelier right now. But that’s OK, this is part of my journey and I’m loving the journey. I’ve had a lot of opportunity to reflect and feel lucky to realize it’s perfectly OK to have your passion also be your profession. So many people are scared to do that, but for me my passion has only intensified. GENEVIEVE LEFRANC is a freelance writer/editor based in the greater BaltimoreWashington, DC area. She holds a BA from James Madison University in writing, rhetoric, and technical communication. She actively researches and writes about travel, pop culture, beauty and fashion with creative nonfiction her métier. Contact: genevieve.lefranc@gmail.com or www.genevievelefranc.wix.com/gmlportfolio
22 n january 2015
FoodService Monthly
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