Food Service Monthly

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Volume 13, Number 5 n May 2014

TM

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

The Occidental

Chef de Cuisine

Matt Baker American history, local beef come to the table

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FOODSERVICE MONTHLY

INSIDE

MAY 2014 n 3

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On Volume 13, No. 5 n May 2014

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MAY FOCUS: meat..................................................................................................................... 16

foodservicemonthly foodservicemonthly.com

Volume 13, Number 5 n May 2014

TM

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

The Occidental

Chef de Cuisine

news and information RAM Announces Stars of the Industry Awards.................................................................................. 5

MaTT Baker American history, local beef come to the table

Association News RAM................................................................................................................... 9 Matt Baker Q&A........................................................................................................................... 15 Old School: Arty Alafoginis............................................................................................................ 18 & Expansion................................................................................................................................ 26 Ad Index...................................................................................................................................... 29 Columns Sauce on the Side

by Michael Birchenall.................................................. 4

Food Smarts

by Juliet Bodinetz-Rich............................................... 10

Working In America

by Amy Novick.......................................................... 12

On the Cover Matt Baker, chef de cuisine at The Occidental Grill and Seafood, sources local beef from Roseda Farms for its New York Strips ‌ but also features rabbit roulade, lamb crepinette and chicken ballatine to balance the menus with a creative culinary flare.

Foodservice Technology

by Henry Pertman..................................................... 13

photo credit: Michael Birchenall

Bob Brown Says

by Bob Brown........................................................... 14

The Latest Dish

by Linda Roth Conte.................................................. 22

Whining n’ Dining

by Randi Rom .......................................................... 24

Balti-MORE

by Dara Bunjon......................................................... 25

Table Linens Chef Coats Aprons & Towels Mops & Mats

Foodservice Monthly is the only publication to be awarded the RAM Allied Member of the Year award and the RAMW Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year award, the highest honor for a non-restaurant member.


4 n MAY 2014

FoodService Monthly

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SAUCE ON THE SIDE

Good Things Happen

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the effects of 9/11, the s FSM was going to Association through its press, the Restaurant new executive director Association Lynne sought to reenergize Metropolitan the restaurant scene to Washington (RAMW) bring customers back into made a key announcement the District. At that time as at a reception held at a former restaurateur, she The Carnegie Library. was the right person to Lynne Breaux, former lead the Association with RAMW president, will her wealth of experience be presented the Capital by Michael Birchenall in restaurants and hotels. Achievement Award Lynne had owned and named in honor of operated a Capitol Hill restaurant legendary Washington restaurateur for thirteen years. Lynne arrived at Duke Zeibert at the RAMMY Awards RAMW as both a restaurateur and an Gala in June. The Association recognizes an experienced advocate for the industry. I too had left a career of 20 individual whose hard work and plus years in food and beverage outstanding initiative has increased operations as both a hotel food and the profile and success of the Metropolitan Washington restaurant beverage manager and a restaurant manager and reinvented myself community. as a magazine editor/publisher I met Lynne Breaux during a tour for this regional foodservice trade of restaurants for the first restaurant publication. On the tour bus, we met week in 2002. Still reeling from

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each other for the first time and it didn’t take long for us to share our passion and vision for the industry. We talked about the sociology of hospitality and the joy a restaurant can bring and its role in a healthy vibrant community. With the success that came under Lynne’s leadership that extended through 2012, it seems odd to be talking about a time when the energy of the restaurant scene wasn’t sizzling like it is today. On that winter evening in 2002, we talked about our plans for the future … what we would do. Lynne was going to grow the Association, regain its relevance in the eyes of the public and the politicians and place it back on a sound financial footing. I wanted to create a publication that reflected this industry and the great people who make it so exciting, so intoxicating to be a part of every day. I told her I would celebrate the people of hospitality (Lynne called them hospitalians) and you would always see a real person on my covers … and plenty of pictures of the doers to go with the informative articles written by local writers who were part of the good story. We hear about food and beverage being local and sustainable … I wanted a magazine in 2002 to be the same. Lynne Breaux was regularly a key part of the story of the Mid-

Atlantic foodservice expansion and its DC renaissance. We laughed that night about our words … because at that time, all we had were the words. We had the talk, but what would our actions produce in the future. I know one of my career highlights was receiving the Association’s first Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year Award, named for my public relations friend and hero. It validated my goal I shared with Lynne of wanting to do more than report on the industry, but to be a positive force for the good of hospitality. Now, sure enough in 2014, Lynne Breaux is being recognized for meeting and exceeding her every expectation during her tenure. No, she never retired; she just passed on a blazing torch for Kathy Hollinger to carry forward with her own vigor and direction. On this night at the Carnegie Library, Lynne Breaux was honored. And she gave her best public speech ever … without the script and from the heart. Lynne Breaux’s enduring passion for hospitality reminded me of our meeting in 2002 … only this time she has made it all happen and the adulation of her peers covered her with their love and appreciation.

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Foodservice Monthly is published by Silver Communications, Corp. The FSM mission is to provide the Mid-Atlantic foodservice professional with news and information in an informed, imaginative and insightful newsmagazine. Foodservice Monthly assumes no responsibility for material submitted to us. All information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part or transmitted in any form without prior permission from the publisher of Foodservice Monthly.


FOODSERVICE MONTHLY

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MAY 2014 n 5

FSM NEWS

RAM Celebrates Stars of the Industry at 60th Gala

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fter three weeks of online voting, the Restaurant Association of Maryland announced its industry awards at the 60th Annual Stars of the Industry Awards celebrating Maryland’s most elite restaurants and hospitality professionals. With over 600 industry guests in attendance the Away at the Bay Awards Gala was held at the Hyatt Chesapeake in Cambridge, Md. “The Gala is our opportunity to honor and give recognition to elite restaurants across the state. We are fortunate to have such a diverse group of restaurants to choose from who are dedicated to their customers, their community and their employees,” said Marshall Weston, President and CEO of the Restaurant Association of Maryland. Weston also introduced an unexpected recognition of the state’s restaurant staff members with the inaugural The Heart of the Industry award sponsored by Payce Payroll. The winners were Amanda Taylor, Horizons Restaurant in the Clarion Resort Fontainebleau Hotel, and Ron Barnette, Miss Shirley’s Café. Two of the top awards went to Ocean City hospitalians Tammy Patrick-Cebula, Galaxy 66 Bar & Grille and Skye Bar, for Restaurateur of the Year and Travis Wright, The Shark for Chef of the Year. Recipients of the McCormick Cornerstone of the Industry awards were Carter Barbeque & Grilling Company, Mount Airy; Galway Bay Irish Pub, Annapolis; Glory Days Grill and Rams Head Tavern, Annapolis. ProStart Teacher of the year honors went to Faith Kling, Edmondson-Westside High School. Mimmo Cricchio Jr. presented the ProStart Student of the Year award and the Chef Mimmo Cricchio Scholarship to Adrian Stewart from Bowie High School.

Other top awards given by the Association included:

Eddie Dopkin’s First Course Award Honoring Entrepreneurship in Hospitality Sandra Maye Stratford University

Brice & Shirley Phillips Lifetime Industry Achievement Award Fred Lankford Sysco Eastern Maryland

The Otto Schellhase Award Jeff Owens Clyde’s Restaurant Group

Hospitality Hall of Honor The Middleton Tavern, Annapolis Cantler’s Riverside Inn, Annapolis Cracker Barrel BJ’s on the Water, Ocean City Bayside Skillet—The Crepe & Omelette Place, Ocean City Kelsey’s, Ellicott City The following restaurants, chefs and restaurateurs are the winners in their category:

Chef of the Year

Jody and Travis Wright from The Shark in Ocean City celebrate the selection of Travis as the Chef of the Year for RAM.

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Wine and Beverage Program of the Year Quench, Rockville

Craft Brew Program of the Year Fager’s Island, Ocean City

Favorite Bar or Tavern Brew River, Salisbury

Allied Member of the Year Vinnie Rege Howard Community College

Restaurateur of the Year Tammy Patrick Cebula Galaxy 66 Bar & Grille, Ocean City

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6 n MAY 2014

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FoodService Monthly

FSM NEWS, cont. RAMW-EF Names Scholarships for Frans Hagen The Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington Education Foundation (RAMW-EF), known as Educated Eats, announced that going forward its scholarships for the “future of the industry” will be known as the Frans Hagen Educated Eats Scholarships. Frans Hagen has devoted over 30 years to the Association and the Foundation and serves as Emeritus Director. The Foundation is now accepting 2014 scholarship applications. The

scholarships are in the amount of $2,500 each, half ($1,250) to be paid in the first semester and half ($1,250) to be paid in the second semester to individuals who are planning a career in the foodservice industry and who demonstrate an interest in continuing education in the restaurant industry. The Frans Hagen Educated Eats scholarships are designed to assist individuals who demonstrate an interest in and commitment to the restaurant industry. Scholarships are provided to both high school

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students pursuing a course of undergraduate culinary study, as well as to those already active in the restaurant industry who are interested in opportunities to return to school to refresh and deepen their skill set. Applications can be downloaded at www.educatedeats.com. Application deadline is May 31.

Virginia Beach High Schools Rise to the Top at VPSI Salem High School and Landstown High School Teams Advance to the National ProStart Invitational The Virginia Hospitality & Travel Association Education Foundation will send a culinary team from Salem High School and a management team from Landstown High School, both from Virginia Beach, to compete in the 13th Annual National ProStart Invitational. The two were tops in their categories at the Virginia ProStart Student Invitational held at Liberty University. The National ProStart Invitational is the country’s premier high school competition focused on restaurant management and culinary arts. To be held in Minneapolis from May 3-5, it will bring together the top ProStart students from 43 states and territories to showcase their skills in food preparation and restaurant management. Winning teams will take home an opportunity to select from a pool of $1.4 million in

scholarships. The culinary competition highlights the creative abilities of each team through the preparation of a three-course meal in 60 minutes using only two butane burners. Management teams develop a proposal for an original restaurant concept and apply critical thinking skills to challenges managers face in day-to-day operations. The performance of teams in both events is observed and rated by expert judges from industry and academia. “ProStart is developing the best and brightest talent into tomorrow’s industry leaders,” says Rebecca Reamer, Director of Education and ProStart for VHTA, which runs the program in Virginia. “ProStart gives students a sense of purpose and demonstrates their passion for the future, which will be on full display when they represent the Commonwealth in Minneapolis.” Culinary teacher Lynette Voloudakis and management instructor Suzette Johnson will accompany the teams. Culinary team members include Tim Scheetz, Jessica Law, Sandrine Robinson, and Aaron Smith. Management team members are Spencer Andrews, Tim Brush, Emily White, Peyton Auxt, and Cassidy Garcia. In Virginia approximately 3,900 students are served by ProStart and supported by the Virginia Hospitality & Travel Association Education Foundation. FSM NEWS Continued on page 8

restaurant equipment & smallwares Janitorial equipment & supplies retail Packaging • foodservice Packaging www.acmepaper.com 800.462.5812 Toll Free 410.792.2333 Baltimore 301.953.3131 Washington The VPSI winners celebrate their upcoming trip to the National ProStart Invitational.


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8 n MAY 2014

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FoodService Monthly

FSM NEWS, cont. OCHMRA Installs New Officers

The 2014 OCHMRA officers were installed at the Harrison Harbor Watch restaurant in Ocean City.

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Over 240 members of the Ocean City Hotel Motel Restaurant Association held their annual officer installation at the Harrison’s Harbor Watch. Tourism Director, Donna Abbott installed the 2014-2015 Officers and Board of Directors. G. Hale Harrison, of Harrison Group, was installed as the new president, Bob Torrey, of Happy Jack Pancake House, 1st vice president and Mark Elman, of the Clarion Fontainebleau Hotel, will serve as the 2nd vice president. Shawn Harman, of Fishtales/Bahia Marina, continues as Secretary -Treasurer. The three-year Board of Directors installed include, Doug Buxbaum of Buxy’s Salty Dog, Caryl Cardenas of Park Place Hotel and Dave Robinson of Boardwalk Hotel Group. Two-year Directors include Patrick Staib of Real Hospitality Group, Gary Figgs of Seacrets and Tom Tawney of Cayman Suites. One-year Directors are Austin Purnell of OC Motels, Will Lynch of the Commander Hotel and Rebecca Taylor of Captain’s Table. Outgoing President, Chris Trimper was presented with a plaque in appreciation of his hard work and dedication as OCHMRA president. Chef Gary Leach presented the awards for the recent Delmarva Chefs and Cooks Association (DCCA) oyster competition. As part of its mission, the DCCA is recruiting junior members into the chapter as they are the future of our industry. • Mike Wagner, 1st place: Oysters Kaneisua, Wor-Wic Community College • Amanda Sims, 2nd place: Oyster Pot Pie, J. M. Tawes Vo-Tech • Jonathan Bisset, 3rd Place: Melt in Your Mouth Oyster Bruschetta, J. M. Tawes Vo-Tech These dishes were featured in local sponsoring restaurants for the month of April.

Second Annual Kids LiveWell Recipe Challenge Celebrates Healthful Kids’ Menu The National Restaurant Association announced the winners of the second annual Kids LiveWell Recipe Challenge, an initiative

showcasing restaurants’ culinary ingenuity for creating healthful menu options for children. Sponsored by founding partner McCormick For Chefs, the Food Away From Home business of McCormick & Company, and Healthy Dining’s team of registered dietitians, the Challenge recognizes delicious and nutritious recipes from children’s menus at restaurants and foodservice establishments nationwide. The Kids LiveWell Recipe Challenge involved an “industry tested, kid approved” approach, with a panel of food and nutrition professionals selecting finalists and approximately 30 children choosing the winners at a tasting event at the McCormick World of Flavors store in Baltimore’s Inner Harbor. Kids chose the following restaurants and foodservice companies as winners: • O’Charley’s Cloudy with a Chance of Spaghetti and Meatball Pizza (Multi-unit restaurant company with 20 or more units) • Bean Sprouts Café & Cooking School’s Do-Re-For-Me Sandwich (Independent restaurant or company with fewer than 20 units) • Sysco Hampton Road’s Kids Quesa WOW Dilla (Contract Managed Food Service) • UW Health’s Swimming Taco (Independent Noncommercial Food Service) “We are thrilled by the positive response and excitement we continue to receive from the restaurant and foodservice industry for the Kids LiveWell Recipe Challenge,” said Dawn Sweeney, President and CEO of the National Restaurant Association. “The Challenge is a great way to celebrate the industry’s hard work to create and provide healthful options to children. Congratulations to all of the winners on their dishes that are not only inventive, but nutritious and officially kid-approved!” “The Kids LiveWell Recipe Challenge helps to inspire foodservice chefs to create healthier children’s meals,” said Megan Ford, Vice President of Sales and Marketing, US Industrial Group, McCormick & Company.


FOODSERVICE MONTHLY

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MAY 2014 n 9

ASSOCIATION NEWS RAM

Educating Lawmakers on Minimum Wage

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while freezing the tip wage n February of this year, at the current $3.63 an Maryland Governor hour. Governor O’Malley Martin O’Malley is expected to sign this proposed raising the legislation into law. minimum wage to $10.10 How did this drastic an hour while increasing change in terms happen? the minimum tip wage for Quite simply, because servers and bartenders to of the leadership of the $7.07 an hour and tying Restaurant Association automatic future increases by Marshall Weston of Maryland. RAM and a to the Consumer Price President & CEO coalition of members who Index. This proposal had Restaurant Association worked extremely hard considerable support in of Maryland educating lawmakers and the General Assembly, and the Governor about our the Restaurant Association industry and convinced them to make of Maryland (RAM) was extremely changes to the legislation. Although concerned about how this would most RAM members still believe that affect the restaurant industry if a $10.10 minimum wage will have a passed. negative effect on business, the extreme On April 7, the General Assembly negative consequences of the proposed passed a minimum wage bill that original bill have been avoided. will increase the minimum wage to Here is a quick look at what RAM $10.10 an hour by the year 2018 helped accomplish: with no automatic future indexing,

• The increase to $10.10 an hour will be phased in over four years instead of two. Such a drastic and immediate increase in the minimum wage would have forced employers to cut employee hours and jobs. Phasing in the increase will help restaurants remain in business and save employees their jobs. • If the tip wage had remained at 50 percent of the minimum wage, rather than frozen at $3.63 an hour, restaurants would be paying every tipped employee $1.42 more an hour. If you had 20 servers working five hour shifts every day, a restaurant’s labor cost for servers alone would have gone up over $51,000 each year, in addition to the other minimum wage employees. If the Governor’s original tip wage proposal of $7.07 had passed, labor costs for servers would have increased by over $120,000 each year. Servers are some of the highest paid employees in restaurants because of the tips they earn. Most earn

between $15 and $20 an hour. A government mandate that forces restaurants to give raises to the highest paid employees ultimately leads to no money available to give raises to other employees. • Future automatic minimum wage increases of anywhere from four to six percent each year have been eliminated. RAM members are an elite group of restaurants that are dedicated to their customers, their community and their employees. Supporting and belonging to RAM ensures that someone is educating lawmakers. Otherwise, legislation will be passed that could have serious negative effects on restaurants. Whether you’re in Maryland, Washington, DC, Delaware, Virginia or Pennsylvania, the state restaurant associations are there protecting restaurants. No matter where your restaurant is located, you need to become a member of your restaurant association.


10 n MAY 2014

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FoodService Monthly

FOOD SMARTS

General Meat Handling Guide for Your Cooks … For Real

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freshly slaughtered. Meat ve been surprising can be the source of much my food safety foodborne illness and much students lately care has to be applied in and informing its handling. The following them that if the meat is is a general meat handling freshly slaughtered and guide for your cooks. butchered safely, they can basically eat it raw, i.e. steak tartare or carpaccio, Purchase as other people enjoy raw Only from an approved fish, i.e. sashimi or sushi. by Juliet Bodinetz food source, inspected and This seems to shock in compliance with all laws them. I actually enjoy seeing some possible; local, state and federal. In of them react with a startled jump. the United States all meat must have LOL … here’s the concept, just as if the inspection stamp on it from the fish is fresh, fresh, fresh, and been USDA. handled properly, we can enjoy it raw. Same with meat. If meat is Receive really fresh and been butchered • Make sure frozen meat is frozen properly, same concept, we can solid like a rock. Tap it. Reject the enjoy it raw or rare. order if even just partially frozen. Reality is that we don’t get meat • Take a temperature check with

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a calibrated thermometer. If refrigerated, 41°F or lower. • Confirm USDA Inspection Stamp on packaging • Check that packaging is intact • Check color • Check not slimy • Check no funky smells • Press on the meat to see that it bounces back. If it leaves an indentation, it has passed its moment (dead too long)

Storage Put meat away immediately whether in the freezer or the refrigerator. Follow FIFO—First In First Out—concept. Pull older frozen burgers forward in your freezer and place the newer products behind the older products. I always have this fear that every restaurant has a box of frozen burgers in the back corner of their freezer because new deliveries keep getting placed on top of or in front of the older product. Follow correct placement order in your refrigerator. From top to bottom, foods should be placed in descending order: Ready-to-Eat (RTE) foods (cold cuts), fish, whole meat, ground meat, poultry on bottom. Placement is based upon danger level of each food. Safest on top, most dangerous on bottom, reflected by cooking temperatures. Consider placing meat on sheet pans or in tubs so meat doesn’t drip and cross contaminate the product below it. Day dot or date meat if you transfer or divide into smaller portions. A restaurant that has raw hamburger on the top shelf in their fridge with no date is unacceptable.

Preparation Wash your hands. Use clean and sanitized utensils. Keep meat under refrigeration until you use it. Keep meat out of the TDZ (Temperature Danger Zone) 41°F-135°F

Don’t cross contaminate. Use different color-specific equipment (i.e. cutting boards) for different food items. Consider prepping raw meats in a separate section of your kitchen and another section for RTE foods. If this is not possible, prep raw meats at different time from RTE foods. If you have to defrost meat follow these four approved methods: 1. refrigerator, at 41°F or below 2. under running potable water, no higher than 70°F 3. microwave, only if cooked immediately 4. part of the cooking process

Cooking Don’t cross contaminate. Use a clean plate to transfer cooked meat and don’t use the same plate on which the raw meat was held. Consider using separate tongs for cooked meat vs. raw meat. Heat is what kills the harmful pathogens that make us sick. Therefore correct cooking temperatures are very important to kill any harmful pathogens that can be in or have approached the outside of the meat. Put a consumer advisory on your menu if you serve raw, rare or medium rare cooked meats as they really don’t reach the minimum cooking temperatures recommended by the FDA Food Code. Stay safe! Juliet Bodinetz is executive director of Bilingual Hospitality Training Solutions and has more than 25 years industry and training experience. Her team of instructors’ specialty is food safety, alcohol training and ServSafe training in English or in Spanish as well as writing HACCP Plans in the Baltimore and Washington D.C. area. Contact: www. bilingualhospitality.com, juliet@bilingualhospitality.com or 443-838-7561. For latest food safety tips: Like on Facebook or Twitter: @BHTS


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12 n MAY 2014

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WORKING IN AMERICA

Immigration Reform: What’s Happened and Where Are We?

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cross America, what current state of millions of immigration reform would immigrants and their be of interest to our families, businesses, readers. and communities are waiting for – and calling A Recap of What’s Happened for – immigration reform, On June 27, 2013, and yet Congress continues the Senate voted 68-32 to fail to act. With some in favor of S.744, 11 million undocumented the “Border Security, by AMY NOVICK immigrants living and Economic Opportunity, working in the United and Immigration States, most of whom already have Modernization Act,” the most deep roots in this country including sweeping overhaul of the nation’s strong family ties, and agreement immigration and border control that wholesale deportation makes laws in nearly 30 years. All eyes no sense, public opinion is now then turned to the Republicanfirmly in favor of legalizing the controlled House of Representatives, undocumented. which had been deliberating on a Poll after poll show that two out series of piecemeal reform measures, of three American voters support eschewing the comprehensive legalization and a way for these approach adopted by the Senate immigrants to become citizens. and favored by the Obama Meanwhile, businesses continue to Administration and rejecting a struggle to obtain visas for needed “pathway to citizenship.” Indeed, foreign national employees, with House committees passed four tens of thousands of applications for reform bills. At that time, advocates potentially job-creating immigrants hoped that agreement between the thrown out in April because Senate and House on process and insufficient visas are available for content could be reached at least professional workers. And, global informally before the 2013 August entrepreneurship in this country recess. It did not. languishes because there are few Soon after the recess, however, work-related avenues under the Congress returned to Washington current system to accommodate and was embroiled with the the world’s most talented. In the Administration and consumed by last 10 months since the Senate the budget and the government passed sweeping reform of America’s shut down. Nevertheless, in early immigration system, nothing much October, the House Democratic has happened. leadership introduced its version Because of the hospitality of a comprehensive reform (CIR) industry’s need for foreign nationals bill modeled after the Senate’s. The to fill jobs, we thought a recap of introduction of the bill was part of an

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orchestrated series of events that took place across the country to remind the public that immigration reform remained unfinished. Its introduction was more symbolic than realistic, and the stalemate on immigration continued. By mid-October the chance of CIR becoming law became about zero percent. By early 2014, CIR advocates on both sides of the aisle began to moderate their positions on a “pathway for citizenship” and started discussions about other ways to regularize the undocumented population. One solution advocated was to add more slots in the business and family visas categories for those who legalize, rather than create a new visa or path. Meanwhile, in light of record levels of deportations under his Administration—some 400,000 people a year and far more than under President Bush—President Obama ordered a review of deportations. House Republicans then latched onto the idea that President Obama could not be trusted to carry out the law. Criticizing him for reviewing his deportation policies and for implementing certain limited forms of administrative relief, House Republicans balked at further discussions on CIR and have essentially frozen in place a dysfunctional system. The stalemate continues.

Where We Are With a bit more than three months left before the summer congressional recess and then fall midterm elections, Congress has little time left in its congressional calendar to enact immigration reform. First, most of the contested primaries—where proimmigration reform positions are most controversial especially for conservative Republicans—must be concluded so that victors can feel free to take locally unpopular positions on immigration without fear of reprisals. Second, agreement

must be reached at least in principle by the leaders in both chambers. Even the most optimistic among us are beginning to become realists on the prospects of immigration reform and are turning again to the White House to explore further forms of administrative relief. There are indeed numerous steps the Administration can take by executive order or regulation to temporarily alleviate inhumane policies for the undocumented or create opportunities for the highly skilled. For example, the Administration is being urged to exempt other immigrants from deportation beyond the “DACA” youth and to extend work authorization to the spouses of certain high skilled workers. And, the Administration can take a number of steps to increase the opportunities for entrepreneurs, both foreign- and native-born, in an effort to accelerate expansion of the US economy and creating jobs. However, the President is currently resisting administrative changes and has said that only Congress can fix the broken system. One way or another, there must be some changes to the immigration system, either Band-Aids or a cure. Regrettably, this optimist expects some Band-Aids but continues to hope for a cure. Amy Novick has been working in immigration law and policy for more than 25 years. A principal with Haynes Novick Immigration, Novick’s practice focuses on obtaining work visas for skilled professionals, issues of concern to G-4 international workers, foreign adoptions, naturalization and citizenship, and family-based immigration matters. She represents employers and their employees in settings that include hospitality, high tech, and medicine. She served on the board of trustees of the American Immigration Council and is a frequent editor of immigration law titles published by the American Immigration Lawyers Association. To learn more or to schedule a personal consultation: 202-293-3123 or anovick@ dcimmigrationattorney.com


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pring has sprung. Fall those cooks will lead to has fallen. Winter better service and customer stunk and we’re mad satisfaction. Every single as hell. Right? Is it time time. Think there are to invest in your business shortcuts? Nope, just now? Put some money expenses. and effort in, and get a big 3. You INVESTED in a good return, OK? That is always POS system a few years ago. the challenge, and often, You knew I would go because the investment is a there, right? A few years by HENRY PERTMAN poor one, it turns out to be later, it is becoming just an expense. an expense. Upgrades, When is an investment an maintenance, service calls, and it expense? Read on for the answers. is getting to be downright slow. 1. You INVESTED in a website. Sounds expensive and painful, and The really good ones cost a lot of it is. Technology moves quickly and money, but you got a really good deal new technology provides tools to from the kid who works for you, the savvy operators which leave the old kid with that start up business, that POS systems in a trail of dust. Dust company that took forever and your makes you cough. Time to get rid of site that no one really looks at … the dust, catch up to, and pass by that, sir and madame, is an expense. the young whipper snappers who An investment is a website that use and utilize the latest technology you pay for once, and it just keeps tools to grow their business and their working for you. Easy to maintain. bottom lines. Do not be afraid of Easy to update with new specials, being SOLD something EXPENSIVE. upcoming events, and links to your Talk to your POS company instead, Facebook and Twitter accounts. It as a business partner who has your just keeps making money, and that is best interests in mind. Most of them what I call an investment. really do. Put down your guard and hear about what is available 2. You INVESTED in a new manager. today that will help you grow. That The really good ones were asking will help you have more personal a lot of salary, but you got a really time. That will help you make more good deal promoting that head money, more easily. Online Ordering, waiter, or assistant manager who Customer Databases, Loyalty has had six jobs in five years. You Programs, email campaigns, Cloud were going to train her to do it your analytics, Automatic alerts, etc., etc., way, and you would save $10,000 and … you know, right? a year, right? That usually turns out Your competition is moving along to be an expensive expense. Same and quite successfully deploying as hiring journeyman cooks in your INVESTMENT strategies, and kitchen. The investment comes from continuing in many ways to invest in a manager who knows how to train their businesses. You see it every day. a staff to upsell. A manager who has Do not delay. It is not a choice, it is a keen eye for customer responses mandatory. It is not an EXPENSE. It and is responsive. The investment of is an INVESTMENT. $10,000 additional salary per year Let me know where and when I will likely improve your bottom line can help, and enjoy the weather and by double, triple that and much your thriving business! more. Just as a couple of dollars an hour extra for an experienced and stable line cook will lead to lower food costs, better quality food coming from your kitchen, and the combination of that manager and

MAY 2014 n 13

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

Henry Pertman is senior sales manager with MICROS Mid-Atlantic. The Columbia, Md.-based MICROS Systems provides point of sales systems worldwide. Henry can be reached at hpertman@micros.com

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14 n MAY 2014

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FoodService Monthly

B BOB BROWN SAYS ...

10 Tips for Restaurant Training Success 1. Be an expert. The quickest and easiest way to deflate an audience is to not know the jargon and ins and outs of your business. Be knowledgeable about your topic, and connect the concepts and techniques to real-life experiences. You’ll be effective, believable, and confident.

a workbook and pen. And turn off your iPhone.

3. Sell. The word “seminar” conjures images of falling asleep at your desk back in high school. Substitute “seminar” with “workshop.” Post upbeat messages: “Don’t miss Service Excellence for BY BOB BROWN Lifetime Loyalty: Learn the art of respectful phrasing 2. Set the stage. Restaurants are not and how to handle guest complaints. Snacks and prizes included.” ideal training venues. The design, Great American Restaurants sets a lighting and table layout create a professional tone using its GAR State galaxy of distractions. Consider the university-style learning center with private dining room. Or, do a trade with a local hotel. Turn the lights up a schedule of courses and expected and the music off. Conduct the class outcomes. away from the kitchen. Place tables 4. Create buy-in with benefits. in a crescent shape so no one is Starting with, “During the next two looking through someone else’s head hours, we’ll discuss ...” ensures a (see photo). Make sure everyone has roomful of clock watchers. Say, “In a

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short amount of time, you’ll learn how to ...” Tout common benefits: less stress, more fun, better money, and an improved position in the marketplace. Give prizes for participating. Energize with a chance to win a Starbucks gift card or movie tickets.

5. Engage, entertain, and educate. Delight with real-life examples. “I was at Macy’s in the Dulles Town Center yesterday and couldn’t get a single person to help me find socks.” Relate to the importance of greeting. I tell how personal shopper Keith Beres of Neiman Marcus at Tysons Corner artfully sold me an entire outfit and then link it to selling a complete meal. Stories provide a powerful way to make a point. They also amuse and ease the mind with mini mental vacations.

6. Boost with games, activities, and role-play. Don’t tell. Show, demonstrate, dramatize. Use the power of sight, sound, smell, taste, and touch. For example, conduct a Raw, Prepped, Final food show. Have your chef prepare four trays: one for a whole red snapper, another for the garlic, rosemary, sage, thyme, and olive oil marinade, another for uncooked linguini and spinach, and the last for the final plate. Talking about a dish’s origin and health benefits and showing how it’s prepared engages all the senses and learning styles. Add variety with a mix and match of lecture, storytelling, pictures, role-play, activities, and stretch breaks.

7. Create a safe environment. Avoid put-downs, a surefire way to get participants to shrink into their seats and wonder, “Am I next?” Or worse, think, “I can’t stand this guy.”

Honor your participants’ insights, ideas, and efforts, and they feel they’re creating the workshop with you.

8. Make certain managers and team leaders attend. Workshops are mini focus groups that reveal the strengths and weaknesses of participants. Training sessions also enable managers to fine tune, recast, and ensure the skills and techniques are reinforced.

9. Measure. Beyond tracking check average, guest satisfaction and employee retention, try “say/do” certification. For example, if your focus is sequence of service, have your trainee role-play every touch point from greeting to good-bye. You never know if the training sticks until you evaluate performance. 10. End on a high note. Celebrate by drawing the winning tickets and handing out the prizes. Then thank participants for their creativity, sense of humor, patience, and courage to role-play in front of their peers. Great training leaves participants with skills that make their jobs easier and a feeling of pride and hope for a brighter future. Bob Brown, president of Bob Brown Service Solutions, pioneered Marriott’s Service Excellence Program and has worked with clients such as Disney, Hilton, Morton’s of Chicago, Olive Garden, and Red Lobster. He has appeared on the Food Network and Hospitality Television and is author of The Little Brown Book of Restaurant Success and The Big Brown Book of Managers’ Success. ©Bob Brown Service Solutions 2012. Contact Bob for DVD for the new DVD “The 8 Keys of Dining Sales Success,” “The Raw Prepped Final Food Show.” and the “7 Keys of Beverage Sales Success” at 703726-9020 or bob@bobbrownss.com


FOODSERVICE MONTHLY

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M

att Baker, chef de cuisine at The Occidental Grill & Seafood, is one of the new breed of chefs … taking the classical techniques and giving them the modern, creative flavor twist with today’s technology and changing flavor profiles of the more sophisticated restaurant guest and travelers to the nation’s capital. Foodservice Monthly sat down with him recently to get a pulse of the changing protein market … from the perspective of a working chef.

V

Q&

matt baker

the occidental

FSM: In my days of buying in the 70s90s the key center of the plate meats were the strip, tenderloin and ribeye and prime rib for a roast ... what is true today? BAKER: Same holds true, not much has changed. I’d say over the past 10 years you’ve seen a lot more demand for off cuts such as Skirt Steak, Hanger Steak and Flat Iron Steaks. The problem with that is the increased demand for those cuts have raised the prices, no longer making those cuts value cuts for chefs and restaurant.

MAY 2014 n 15

FSM: In creating the menu, how do pork, lamb and lesser known beef cuts play in the planning?

FSM: Are customers more adventurous with flavor profiles and how do you keep on top of the trends.

BAKER: I love working with different meats other then beef and offering a variety on the menu. Pork and Lamb are usually staple items on the menu, often times coming from local farms such as EcoFriendly Farms (Pork), Elysian Fields (Lamb) and Border Springs Farm (Lamb). Another product that we love to use is Bison New York Strips and Short Rib coming for New Frontier Farms.

BAKER: Our customers at The Occidental are fantastic and always surprise me when it comes to trying new things. We have recently featured items such as Rabbit Roulade, Chicken Ballatine and Lamb Crepinette on our menus, and all of which have sold very well and received terrific feedback from the guests.

FSM: Does selecting the meat protein for private dining menus require a different thought process? BAKER: I’d say 90 percent of our clientele prefer either filet mignon or New York strips when it comes to private events. However, when creating the private event menus we do give options, usually focused around a braised item such as Braised Beef Short Rib or Braised Lamb Shank.

FSM: It’s more than the center of the plate ... how do you plan the complementary accompaniments/sides? BAKER: The composition of the dishes are always driven by the seasons. What’s in season and what’s being grown locally? Being a Modern American restaurant in Washington DC, we do take on a lot of influence from regional Chesapeake Bay cooking, but we always start with the relationships we have with local farmers to get

BAKER Q&A cont. on page 28


16 n may 2014

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

Beef: the Steak Still Sizzles

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teak is still the great American entrée. No other protein inspires such passion and such powerful associations with pleasure, indulgence and romance. Americans have actually cut back on seafood, eating 14.4 pounds per person in 2012, down from 15 pounds in 2011—far less than the average 82 pounds of chicken, 57 pounds of beef and 46 pounds of pork. Steak still hasn’t gone out of style. As tastes change and trends evolve, steak remains a national benchmark for a great dining experience.

Signatures that Sizzle All on its own, steak has unique selling power and crave appeal. But add the right extras, and you’ll boost its profit power even more. Example: you can serve a steak with a choice of baked, mashed or fried potatoes. Or plate it with those same fries, a pat of herb butter, a few sprigs of watercress and a grilled tomato. Strategic additions like these do more than round out the plate. They create menu merchandising opportunities and increase sales. No matter what cut you’re serving, here are some simple ways to make any steak sizzle. The name is half the game: Is your menu working as hard as it can to sell your steak selections? Simply calling out the cooking method and cut can add perceived value and get customers talking. Examples: Oven-Roasted Cowboy-Cut Ribeye, Grilled PepperCrusted New York Strip, Skillet-Seared Flat Iron Steak. Leverage umami appeal: Ingredients like blue cheese, Parmesan, mushrooms, soy sauce and bacon are rich in umami, the savory “fifth” flavor that brings out the meaty taste of steak. And even before the dish

arrives at the table, the expectations that these ingredients create in menu descriptions have the power to add value and stimulate sales. Sell Celebration: Research shows that steak is considered the entrée of choice for celebrations, romantic dining and special occasions. Consider steak promotions that tie into events such as Valentine’s Day and other holidays, as well as graduations, anniversaries, date nights, etc. Add compound interest: Compound butters are simple to prepare and serve, and they go a long way toward dressing up a steak. Simply blend softened butter with seasonings, such as garlic, parsley and chives; mustard and tarragon; lemon zest and cracked pepper; anchovies, fines herbes and shallots; or blue cheese. Form into a log, roll in plastic wrap and chill. Give it a rub with greatness: Rubs are a cost-effective, convenient way to add flavor and variety to steak. Use prepared seasoning blends, such as Cajun blackening mix, Middle Eastern ras el hanout or za’atar, Chinese five spice, Indian garam masala, Latin adobo, Mediterranean herbes de Provence or Ethiopian berbere, to instantly add on-trend flavor and appeal to steaks. Think “mini”: Miniature foods are everywhere these days, and most steak entrées can easily be reworked as minis. Make the most of end pieces or smaller portions to create profitable, popular items like skewers, small plates, appetizers, bar bites and steak sliders. Reinvent classic sides and sauces: Tap into the time-tested allure of classic side dishes like mashed potatoes, creamed spinach and fries by reinventing their flavor profiles to

match the ethnic style of the steak. Examples: guajillo- crema mashed potatoes with a Mexican carne asadastyle Ribeye; creamy sesame- miso spinach with a Japanese robatagrilled Strip steak; Parmesan-polenta fries with a Tuscan-style T-Bone. Finish Strong: Garnishes and finishing touches can be the difference between a good steak and a great signature best-seller. Use ingredients that add flavor, texture, color and a little marketable drama, like crispy fried sage leaves, a tangle of fried parsley or onion strings, freshly grated horseradish or wasabi root and golden fried shallots. Or add a luxurious drizzle of truffle oil or other infused or specialty oils.

Sell More Steak, Sell More Wine There’s a reason steak and wine are such a great match. They’re both richly sensual and all about pleasure and satisfaction. And the special synergy they have can translate to a profit-boosting strategy for you: steak and wine, two of the highestvalue items on your menu, can sell each other. And the more you know about pairing, the better it works. Pair complex wines with simple preparations: Complex wines are ideally paired with foods with robust, straight-ahead flavors that complement the qualities of the wine without getting in their way. A wellcooked, minimally adorned steak is the perfect match for a big Bordeaux or California Cabernet Sauvignon. Robust seasonings call for robust wines: Assertively seasoned steaks are ideally paired with spicy, bigflavored wines, like Zinfandel. With Asian seasonings like garlic, ginger and chiles, try a fruity Gewürztraminer. Hearty steaks need weightier wines:

FoodService Monthly The weight or “body” of a wine should match the heartiness of the preparation. Pair well-marbled steak cuts and substantial preparations like bone-in chops with dense, concentrated, full-bodied wines. Don’t forget rosés: Rosés combine the earthy, red-fruit character of red wine with the freshness and acidity of white wine. That combination works well with many steak preparations. A chilled dry rosé can be a particularly good match with steaks seasoned with garlic.

Beef: One Powerful Protein Healthy menu options are here to stay. The protein in beef is a powerful nutrient that helps strengthen and sustain the body. Lean beef is an excellent source of protein, providing more than half the daily value in just one 3-oz. serving while accounting for less than 10 percent of a 2,000- caloriea-day diet. Many of the most popular steaks are lean, such as T-Bone, Tenderloin and Flank steak.

Steak, Nutrition and the Menu Promote size options: When menuing steak, consider offering smaller- portion options with names like “petite,” “mini” or “rightsize”—or simply by providing ounce references. You’ll attract a wider range of customers who want the enjoyment of steak in a modest portion and/or at a lower price point. For example, talk to your purveyor about alternative ways to break the Ribeye into the Ribeye cap and Ribeye filet. Think “steak as ingredient”: In menu copy and on the plate, steak has the power to create instant appetite appeal. Featuring a few ounces of steak on a salad, pasta, sandwich or combination plate is a cost-effective way to add protein, sizzle and satisfaction to lighter menu items. Pair steak with other healthful foods: Combine sliced, cubed or diced steak with ingredients such as vegetables, whole grains, potatoes and even fruit to help customers see steak as part of a balanced, nutritious way of eating. source: National Cattlemen’s Beef Assoc.


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18 n MAY 2014

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OLD SCHOOL: Arty Alafoginis, Capital Meat Company by Michael Birchenall [Editor’s Note: As promised in last month’s Sauce on the Side, this is the first in a series of articles about the veterans of the foodservice industry … the trailblazers with old-fashioned values and business practices who still sets the standard in a techno/social media-driven world. Up first for the

Meat Issue is Arty Alafoginis, Capital Meat Company.]

T

he Capital Meat Company is a distributor of top-grade meats for restaurants, hotels and clubs in the Washington, DC metropolitan area. As a familyowned and operated business, it’s been their goal is to provide our customers with the highest quality

FoodService Monthly

products and exceptional service. I met Arty Alafoginis at his office in Hyattsville, Md. This summer they will move to a 40,000 squarefoot facility that is being built out to his specifications. How did you get into the meat business? AA: I come from a family run business although I went to school to get a degree with a major in U.S. History. I planned to teach high school history. But in 1972, my father had a heart attack and triple bypass surgery. My brother called and I left school to come home and help … that was 42 years ago. My career at Bay Street Meat had begun. How do you describe the demand for beef cuts today? AA: There has always been great demand for the middle cuts … the strips, ribeyes and tenderloin. But there is equal demand for the chuck, round cuts and specialty cuts like the flat iron and the teris major. Of course that has driven up the price for what used to be a bargain cut of beef. Dry aging of beef is something I remember from my early days of purchasing and then came along cryovac and box beef. Do you have a dry age program? AA: I believe we operate the finest dry-age facility in the area. Our careful control over the humidity and the quality of air circulation offers our dry aged beef products a unique and sought-after taste. We offer a variety of options from our dry age room including portion sizes as well as whole primal and specialty cuts. What about local beef? I know I visited the Shenandoah Valley Coop with you and a group of chefs last year. AA: Our local beef comes from local, family-owned farms in the hills of Maryland and Virginia. Open-range calves are fed grass and mother’s milk for 8-10 months and finished on local, all-natural corn and grain for the final four months. No steroids, growth hormones, animal by-products or supplements are ever used. Our product is nothing but pure, top-quality choice beef. We are happy to schedule a visit to our

processing facility or one of our local farms. Harvested and delivered to us in carcass form in less than five days—never cryovaced. I believe our beef product is the best local product available in the DC metropolitan area. How do you differentiate yourself in the marketplace? AA: Capital Meat Company has operated at the forefront of the market, constantly evolving alongside new trends in the foodservice industry. We were the first meat company to provide Saturday deliveries. As a market leader, we are always searching for new ways to provide our customers with the best products accompanied by amazing service. In addition to our standard offerings, we offer a variety of unique cutting specs and custom aging. We always overtrim as I believe the trim is always important and the first bite is the most important to the guest. Nothing is more important to us than the safety and quality of our products. As a full-time USDA inspected facility (Est. 1951), and operating under the most rigorous HACCP Plan, we take every step to ensure food safety. Any final words? AA: We are meat guys. We know yields. We know our vocation. We buy from the best vendors and we have the experience. I guess the best thing you can say about us is that Capital Meat Company is a meat house.



20 n MAY 2014

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H&M Wagner Food Show

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photos: Lisa Silber

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22 n MAY 2014

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FoodService Monthly

THE LATEST DISH

GRK Fresh Greek Goes Fast and Casual Fast Casual dining is club. Joanna’s 1819 alive and growing in DC Club was the previous metro area. GRK Fresh tenant. The restaurant is Greek, a new healthy, expected to fill the first fast casual concept from level, with a bar, lounge a partnership that is 100 and entertainment on the percent Greek. Their first second and third levels. US store is in New York The fourth level is office City’s financial district. It space. A June opening is came to the attention of planned. by Linda Roth Conte Nation’s Restaurant News, DC airport dining which included GRK continues to give us reason in its “Breakout Brands 2014: 10 to arrive more than an hour earlier hot, emerging restaurant concepts for our flight. Renowned chef/ generating excitement in the industry.” restaurateur Robert Wiedmaier They will introduce their signature (Marcel’s, Brasserie Beck, Mussel Yeero, a classic Greek marinated meat Bar) plans to open a restaurant in a house-baked pita. They will offer in DCA’s Terminal A, which is the fresh yogurt imported from Greece older, southern end of Reagan with sweet and savory toppings, as National Airport. His Sugartoads well as their own signature frozen Restaurant Consulting Group yogurt. The calendar calls for a June is planning a French provencal opening in the Golden Triangle at restaurant, with everything sourced 1140 19th St. The plan is to open locally. The plan is to provide iPads 8-10 stores in the DMV. so guests can order their meals and More restaurant openings from use the Internet while dining. A the folks who brought you Heavy summer 2015 opening is targeted. Seas Alehouse – Baltimore-based Wiedmaier’s new DCA restaurant Monogram Hospitality. In addition will join &pizza, Taylor Gourmet, to their Rosslyn and Baltimore Grille District and Starbuck’s. locations, Monogram plans to Coming to Dulles (IAD) later this open another Heavy Seas Alehouse year: Bar Symon, from Cleveland this coming winter as well as a chef Michael Symon, a DC Craft fast casual version, Heavy Seas Brew station, Smashburger, brb Burgers this summer in locations (from Thompson Hospitality), to be announced shortly. They have District ChopHouse, Carrabba’s, also teamed up with well-known Chef Geoff’s and &pizza. Baltimore chef, Galen Sampson, Macon Bistro & Larder should to launch a casual, locally sourced be open by the time you read this. concept in the Canton section of Located at the arcade at Chevy Baltimore called Farmstead Grill. In Chase Circle, it’s named for chef/ addition, Monogram has teamed up owner Tony Brown’s home town of with Bourbon Coffee in downtown Macon, Georgia, as well as where he DC to launch a new fast-casual pizza learned his classic French cooking and artisan coffee concept, Bourbon techniques, Macon, France. Tony Coffee & Crust. The first locations had opened three locations of The for Bourbon Coffee & Crust will Burro, a fast casual burrito concept, open in New York this summer before selling it and going to and Baltimore this fall. Needless to Georgetown Business School, then say, they are seeking to fill over 20 federal government consulting; now management positions. he’s back in the restaurant business. The new owners of 1819 M His chef de cuisine is Mike Matis, Street, NW are renovating the fourwho previously worked at Miami’s story building to open MPire, a fine Yardbird Southern Table. dining restaurant and gentlemen’s

CH CH Changes Il Canale in Georgetown is expanding into the space where Cannon Seafood Market was next door at 1063 31st St, NW … Owners Ralph Brabham, Drew Porterfield and chef Aschara Vigsittaboot plan to relocate Beau Thai to bigger space at the Jefferson MarketPlace building, a new luxury apartment building on 7th St NW across from the CityMarket at O. The existing location in Shaw at 1700 New Jersey Ave. NW will close when this one opens, which should be by October. They started as a carryout when they first opened in 2010 and grew into a full-service restaurant, and now even bigger.

Just Opened Uprising Muffin Co., a bakery and cafe has opened in Shaw. It’s owned by first-time restaurateur Donnie Simpson Jr., who studied how trendy donuts and cupcakes had become—but not muffins—yet. The fast-casual spot at 1817 7th St, NW offers muffins in 35 rotating flavors as well as sandwiches and salads, along with coffee and espresso drinks. He is the son of legendary WPGC (and before that, WKYS) radio personality, Donnie Simpson … UK-based One Group has opened its 232-seat STK steakhouse geared towards women in décor and menu. Chef Marc Hennessey previously worked at BLT restaurants in Hong Kong as well as upscale restaurants in Chicago and Northern California …Thai street food is the theme of Soi 38 from restaurateurs Nat Ongsangkoon and Dia Khanthongthip, which just opened in Foggy Bottom. The chef is Mitchai Pankham.

Chef & GM Update Chef Michael Walters has joined the Silo team as a consulting chef who has revamped the menu. He spends his mornings as the production chef at Barcelona Wine Bar & Restaurant and the evenings in the kitchen at Silo. Previously, he owned and operated Brightwood Bistro. Calvin Di Giovanni was named chef de

cuisine at Silo. Previously, he was sous chef at Pesce in Dupont Circle … Reston’s Vinifera Wind Bar & Bistro has named Cara Helstrom as the restaurant’s new general manager. Prior to joining Vinifera, Helstrom was general manager at Todd Gray’s Watershed in NE Washington, DC

Quick Hits Todd Luongo plans to open Mythology Modern Chop House and Lore Lounge in the breakout H Street, NE corridor (816 H St NE) before the end of 2nd Quarter 2015. Since there is an Atlas Theater, he continued with the Greek mythology theme, hence the name … Barrel, an upscale casual restaurant and bar at 613 Pennsylvania Ave. SE is open where The 18th Amendment used to be. The chef is Garret Fleming, who was previously at The Pig. The whiskey-focused bar includes nearly 100 different kinds of bourbon, rye, Tennessee whiskey and scotch. Black Squirrel in Adams Morgan is opening a second location in Rosslyn … Red Light, the dessert-andcocktail-focused bar opening in the former Bar di Bari space at 1401 R St. NW, is owned and operated by Aaron Gordon, pastry chef Robert Underwood and cocktail impresarios Ari and Micah Wilder. Red Light takes its name from that area’s former reputation as the red light district. What a long, strange road it’s been, 14th Street. Chef Bob Kinkead has opened Campono a more casual restaurant adjacent to his full-service Ancora in the Watergate complex near the Kennedy Center. Campono focuses on casual Italian food, as it’s named for the town in Italy where Bob’s daughter and her family live. Campono specializes in wood-fired Neapolitan-style pizzas as well as hot and cold subs, salads, house-made gelato. It is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, as well as take-out. Linda Roth Conte is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. specializing in marketing, promotions and publicity in the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 703417-2700 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her website at www.lindarothpr.com


Your table’s not fully set without Culinary Classics. ™

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Cracked Wheat Rolls (order code: 952974) Nutrient-rich, cracked wheat is made from whole raw wheatberry kernels. Eating healthier never tasted so good! San Francisco Sourdough Rolls (order code: 950221) Simplistic in its ingredients, the sourdough creates a wonderfully complex taste.

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Hearty Multigrain Rolls (order code: 952976) Wholesome and hearty multigrains combine deliciously, making this roll a pantry must-have, whether you’re serving egg salad or salmon.

Whole Grain Rolls Made with Honey (order code: 952973) Oh, what a sweet and delicious way to incorporate whole grains into your healthy lifestyle meal planning— breakfast, lunch or dinner.

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To order, please call H&S Bakery’s Call Center 1.800.769.2253 or place an order with your route sales person.

601 South Caroline Street Baltimore, Maryland 21231 www.hsbakery.com 410.276.7254


24 n MAY 2014

FoodService Monthly

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

WHINING ’N DINING

100 Years, Phillips Seafood Celebrates Its Hoopers Island Roots give them to me right out Phillips Seafood is of the oven. To this day, celebrating their 100th every time I see a Phillips Anniversary this year, product, go to the marking the first A.E. restaurant or have lunch Phillips & Son seafood with my friend, Phillips processing plant on marketing whiz Michelle Hoopers Island in the Torres, I think of my Chesapeake Bay! Look Dad and smile. Thanks for lots of exciting events for the great memories! and promotions—cooking by RANDI ROM PhillpsSeafood.com classes, contests, and food and beverage Whassup? specials. When I The 22nd was growing up, Annual Culinary my Dad ran The Extravaganza, Stowaway Hotel, to benefit Meals directly across on Wheels the street from of Central Phillips in Ocean Maryland, is set City, so we were for Monday, May there all the time. They made these 19 at the Grand Lodge in Hunt really great rolls and I’d stop by the Valley, Md., 5:30 9:00 p.m. All kitchen door and the chef would

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proceeds provide nutritious meals to homebound seniors in central Maryland. Featured restaurants include some of my faves—Nancy Longo’s Pierpoint, Winston Blick’s Clementine, Barry Fleischmann’s Innovative Gourmet and Stewart Dearie’s Baldwin’s Station. Lots more—check it out at MealsonWheelsMD.org.

Hollywood Moment The Inn at the Black Olive was bought by actor Woody Harrelson and local banker Jack Dwyer. Dimitris Spiliadis, whose family previously owned the boutique hotel will continue to manage the 12-suite property, which includes The Agora Gourmet Market and The Olive Room rooftop restaurant. TheBlackOlive.com The Lord Baltimore Hotel has expanded its culinary team, naming Michael Carstens as the executive chef for the landmark hotel and Donna Simmonds as pastry chef. “We are pleased to bring on board Chef Carstens,” said Lord Baltimore Hotel General Manager GeneMichael Addis. “His extensive experience in the hospitality industry along with his knowledge of the Baltimore market makes him the ideal person to manage the many food and beverage entities the Lord Baltimore Hotel operates.” As executive chef, Carstens will oversee all food and beverage operations throughout the property including French Kitchen, LB Bakery, LB Tavern, banquets and room service. He will lead the hotel’s culinary team—including newly promoted French Kitchen Chef de Cuisine Zeke Altenbernd—and work alongside the hotel’s sales team and The Classic Catering People, the exclusive caterer for the hotel. Carstens, a BIC-er, brings 15 years of experience, having previously worked for Hilton Worldwide, Westin Hotels and Resorts and Sheraton Hotels and Resorts. Most recently pastry chef Simmonds

worked for three years as the pastry chef for Marie Louise Bistro in Baltimore. The Lord Baltimore is a magnificent property—so glad it’s being refurbished and bringing in top talent. LordBaltimoreHotel.com After undergoing an extensive renovation to create a larger space, Ethel & Ramone’s in Mount Washington is now Ethel’s Creole Kitchen. Since it’s about one minute from my house, I’m gonna haveta mosey on down to check out Chef Ed Bloom’s tasty treats. FYI, Ed trained with Chef Paul Prudhomme so we’re talking the real deal. EthelsCreoleKitchen.com BRIO Tuscan Grille at Annapolis Towne Centre and Baltimore’s Inner Harbor introduced a new brunch menu—roasted turkey sweet potato hash and eggs anyone? YUM. BrioItalian.com

Open/Opening for Biz The folks that own Bond Street Social, are opening Barcocina, a modern Mexican Restaurant in the space previously occupied by Shuckers at 1629 Thames Street— with seating for 100 inside and 100 outside. This is a fabulous property —I’m looking forward to checking it out. It should be open for biz by the time you read this column. BarCocina.com Galen Sampson, former executive chef and owner of The Dogwood, which closed in March will be the executive chef and chief operating officer at The Farmstead Grill, a 200-seat restaurant featuring locally sourced food that’s slated to open this month at The Shops at Canton Crossing. TheShopsatCantonCrossing.com The Boathouse opened in the former Bay Café Space at Tindeco Wharf in Canton. BoatHouseCanton.com Randi Rom is a Baltimore special events planner, marketing and public relations maven, freelance writer and head of R.J. Rom & Associates. Have a hot scoop? Contact Randi via email at randirom@comcast.net or phone at 443-691-9671.


FOODSERVICE MONTHLY

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

Balti-MORE Bagby Restaurant Group Opens Café & Bakery

W

by Dara Bunjon

months upon us, know that they keep iced coffee on tap and special blend ice teas.

e were advised that the Cunningham’s Café and Bakery located under Dara Bunjon: Dara Does It–Creative Cunningham’s Restaurant in Solutions for the Food Industry offers a myriad of services: public relations, social media Towson would open in the spring training and administration, freelance writing, and so it has, yet another notch marketing, special events, food styling and in the Bagby Restaurant Group’s more. Contact Dara at 410-486-0339, info@ hospitality belt. The dara-does-it.com or visit café offers fair-trade www.dara-does-it.com or CUNNINGHAM’S CAFE & BAKERY coffee, their own Twitter: @daracooks 1 Olympic Place • Towson, MD 21204 farm-raised eggs, 410.339.7730 house-baked breads cunninghamstowson.com/cafe-bakery by Head Baker John Aversa, pastries by Chef Angie Lee and culinary creations by Chef Jason Lear. Eat in or carry out, they offer breakfast and lunch options like tomato jam sandwiches and oyster po’ boys. With the warmer Kate Cavallaro, head barista, Megan Parker, general mgr.

MAY 2014 n 25


26 n MAY 2014

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

&expansion by Jay Treadwell

Nashua, NH. I have had to learn my way around here fast!

pizza is a head-scratcher as a name for a series of pizza restaurants until you meet Steve Salis, co-founder and CEO which he founded with his partner, Michael Lastoria. For Salis, exuberance about life would be an understatement in describing him. It isn’t that he is impatient; it’s just that he seems to want to fill every waking moment accomplishing something that will make him and his restaurants connect with people. When asking about his business, the simple answer was he’s in the business of “making people happy.” He will not let a lot of “white space” dictate his progress and sometimes merely a wry smile defines his hesitancy to share all he is planning to do with the brand in Washington D.C. in the coming year. I grabbed onto my stool in his 1250 U St., NW, restaurant and held on for dear life as he unwove his passions for the vision of &pizza.

JT: Did you always know you wanted to be in the pizza business or did it come to you over time? SS: I have always had an affinity for pizza. If you think about it for a moment, in conversation, if you were to simply use the word pizza, think about how that resonates within the soul of a person. Before details are even discussed such as what style of pizza you like, or where do you get your pizza from, what are your favorite toppings, you are getting an emotional response because generally speaking most people have a memory that involves pizza. I have had many fond memories that revolve around pizza. One memory specifically that comes to mind was spending time as child growing up in my local pizza parlor every week with my grandparents. I realized that though I enjoyed the pizza, what I enjoyed more was the opportunity to connect with two people that had a heavy influence on my upbringing. For &pizza, we wanted to create a sense of place where we could provide opportunities to create experiences through pizza.

&

JT: Are you a native of Washington, D.C? You seem to know your way around pretty well. SS: I am not a native of Washington, DC, I was born and raised in

JT: You have a unique background, would you be willing to share any of it? SS: I will spare you the first 20 or so years, but in short, I played basketball at the University of New Hampshire, decided it was no longer the right opportunity for me. I left school at the age of 20, scared the hell out of my family and somehow wound up in New York City and lived and worked there for almost 7.5 years. I was financially unstable and had no means to immediate income sources. I had a one-bedroom apartment with five guys in downtown Manhattan, so it was crowded to say the least. I eventually started out working doors at nightclubs, which I parlayed into a successful run of owning and operating my own food and beverage businesses. I was in an industry where we would cater to all walks of life, such as: investment bankers, real estate tycoons, celebrities, etc. It was cool to meet so many dynamic people and cultivate long lasting relationships as a result. JT: How did you end up here in Washington? SS: When &pizza was merely a concept of renderings, schematics, business plans and theoretical financials, Michael and I hit a point where we decided that launching the business in New York would not be prudent for the brand. This was a very difficult decision at the time, as we both had successful runs in town. But when looking back and thinking about those defining decisions that were made along the way that shapes the business, this was one of them. So once this decision was made to leave New York, we decided to check out many emerging marketplaces around the country. We hit Dallas, Austin, Denver, Philadelphia, Southern Florida, Southern California and Washington, DC. DC was the last stop on the tour. I remember taking a train from New York Penn Station down here to Union Station. I walked out of the station and jumped right into the back of the real estate broker’s car. This was my first time ever visiting DC; I never came here on a school

FoodService Monthly trip or anything and so it left a lasting impression on me to say the least. After a three-hour tour of the town, I was dropped off at the train station. I got out of the car, looked around and had this deep conviction that this was where we needed to be. JT: And what did you discover about the city? SS: When I arrived in town, I really hit the pavement hard in pursuit of securing our first lease. Needless to say, it was impossible to catch a break on the locations we wanted. Strangely enough, it wasn’t because of a lack of a track record, or capitalization. Landlords questioned our ability to deliver ’high quality’ pizzas in a 90 second cook time. But the more important issue was that landlords were unable to wrap their hands around how we were able to cook pizzas without a mechanical venting hood. Prior to moving to DC, I worked with local architects to assist in getting us the necessary clearances from DCRA and DOH. We were successful in doing so, but it held no weight with potential landlords in driving a deal home. Frustrated to say the least, I had to rethink our efforts. It was at that point I started frequenting the H Street corridor as a place to hang out. I realized after spending my time there that the neighborhood really moved me. It had this sense of edge, progression and community that I felt mirrored what we wanted the &pizza brand to be. One day, I found a property located at 1118 H St. NE. The building had a “For Rent” sign in the window. I remember calling the number and the woman that answered the phone spoke broken English. I inquired about the property and at first, even though there was a for rent sign in the window, they did not want to rent the property to anybody. I found out from a friend, that they just had to evict the last three tenants that were leasing from them. That lasted over a three and half year span. Knowing that we had to deal with the sensitivities that came with following the footsteps of bad

&PIZZA cont. on page 30


FOODSERVICE MONTHLY

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

MAY 2014 n 27

Qualifying restaurants could save 5% off Chesapeake Employers’ eligible tiers*

WORKPLACE SAFETY IS OUR HOUSE SPECIALTY

Don’t wait for an accident to think about the importance of workplace safety. Chesapeake Employers’ Insurance Company, formerly IWIF, works with restaurants all over Maryland to help reduce accidents and contain costs. To learn more, call your local agent or visit ceiwc.com

ving Maryland f Ser Ye ars o

*Qualifying restaurant owners must meet Chesapeake Employers’ underwriting guidelines to receive this program discount. Eligible tiers are defined within Chesapeake Employers’ underwriting guidelines. Discounts provided by this program will not apply to out of state payroll. Other States Coverage available per Chesapeake Employers’ guidelines.


28 n MAY 2014

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

FoodService Monthly

ASSOCIATION NEWS OCHMRA by Susan Jones Executive Director, OCHMRA

OC Restaurant Week Returns In order to help drive business during the early season, Restaurant Week will return May 4-18. This member-only promotion is free to participate and is designed around four price-points: $10-20-30-40. Restaurants who escape from their normal menu and design special creative menus are the ones who have had the most success.

Anyone offering a wine pairing, beer tasting, complimentary wine with early meal, etc., will be added

to the Bonus Bites & Beverage area of the website. All menus and specials are uploaded to www. oceancityrestaurantweek.com. Diners get very excited about this promotion, and like to browse menus prior to dining out.

Member Highlights Congratulations to outgoing OCHMRA President Chris Trimper of Trimpers Rides and his wife, Michelle on the birth of son, Christopher. A warm welcome to Greer Groves, who is now part of the MAD Engineering staff. Another Congratulations to the MAD Engineering family, Jennifer and Dan Hallon, on the birth of daughter, Madison Olivia. Congratulations to Chris and Murray Wall of Harborside, on the birth of daughter, Sarah. Welcome to the Dunes Manor General

Manager, Kyle Johnson, as well as new Food & Beverage Director, Miles Lederer. Congratulations to Alane Emerson, the new General Manager at Tanger Outlets. Congratulations to Jason Gulshen, General Manager of Holiday Inn Oceanfront, on the birth of his daughter, Kendal. Congrats to the Wilde Family on the recent purchase of the Empress Motel, and welcome home to their son Ryan who will be joining the family business.

Condolences Our condolences to Paul Suplee of Wor-Wic on the loss of his mother. Condolences to the Michael Lawson family, Barn 34, on the loss of their mother, Angelene Hobbs.

Board Member Spotlight: Austin Purnell Growing up locally, surrounded by

hospitality parents and grandparents, has led this fourth generation hotelier to where he is today; General Manager of the Econolodge Oceanblock located on 145th Street. Austin began working in the family business at the age of 16 in the Spinnaker Motel and in 2010, he moved up to General Manager of another family property, the Thunderbird Beach Motel. His passion for people and hotel management is evident as he truly enjoys getting to know the people that come visit OC. He also enjoys serving the community through his committment as a volunteer at the Berlin Fire Company and as chairman of Worcester County chapter of Ducks Unlimited. You could say that being born and raised here is also reflective in his hobby list; he stated, “enjoying the outdoors, hunting, surfing and enjoying wonderful Worcester County!”

BAKER Q&A cont. from page 15 the very best the region has to offer. FSM: What is the most popular Occidental meat dish? BAKER: Eight-ounce Filet Mignon with Grilled Jumbo Asparagus, Caramelized Cauliflower Puree, Braised Beluga Lentils and Sauce VerJus FSM: Is local a consideration in buying decisions ... do the meat distributors have local programs that help you source product.

OnTheROAD

FSM likes to recognize the drivers who deliver to your establishments. Here’s John from H&M Wagner. photo: Lisa Silber

BAKER: Absolutely, we love supporting local farmers whenever we can. Often times we deal directly with the farmer/farm themselves to order our products. That being said there are a number of local distributors that have local programs that we have used in the past and continue to use. One of which is Fells Point Wholesale Meats and their relationship with Roseda Beef. We love using Roseda Beef, with their New York Strip being our favorite cut of choice, on an average we purchase around 12 sides a week from them.


FOODSERVICE MONTHLY

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

if you run a business…

…you need a lawyer who really understands your business

MAY 2014 n 29

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FSM’s advertisers support the foodservice industry of the Mid-Atlantic when they share their message each month. Call Lisa Silber, sales manager, 301-591-9822 or email lisa@foodservicemonthly.com for the best way to reach the region’s buyers. ADVERTISER INDEX Acme Paper & Supply................................................ 6 Aierco..................................................................... 19 Alto-Hartley............................................................... 8 Barter Systems Inc................................................. 29 Bilingual Hospitality Training Solutions...................... 29 BME....................................................................... 24 Capital Meats......................................................... 17 Chesapeake Insurance............................................ 27 Crab Cake Secret.................................................... 10

Dempsey Linen......................................................... 3 Fells Point Wholesale Meats.................................... 31 H&M Wagner........................................................... 11 H&S Bakery............................................................ 23 Hearn Kirkwood...................................................... 15 Itek Construction + Consulting................................... 4 Ithaca Properties.................................................... 14 Keany Produce.......................................................... 9 Loots Law Firm....................................................... 29 Martin Bamberger................................................... 13 Maryland Food Center Authority................................ 21

Metropolitan Meat Seafood Poultry........................... 32 MICROS.................................................................. 30 National Restaurant Equipment.................................. 5 Nelbud................................................................... 13 Performance Foodservice........................................... 7 Restaurant Association of Maryland Education Foundation............................................................. 25 Restaurant Depot.................................................... 25 Saval Foodservice..................................................... 2 Specialty Food Association...................................... 20 Tech 24 Construction.............................................. 18


30 n MAY 2014

The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On

FoodService Monthly

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&PIZZA cont. from page 26 tenants, I was committed to taking possession of the space. At this point after being rejected so many times, I was not going to take no for answer. After a long negotiation we were able to consummate a deal, move-in, and construct our store. The build out was something else. I learned a lot about a lot of things I did not know prior to the process. Looking back on it, it was a pretty amazing experience. JT: How is that unit doing now? SS: We opened in July 2012 and since inception the business has exceeded our expectations. Our check average is slightly higher in the H St. Street store- $13.50 approximately, and here (U Street) it is about $11.50. About two-thirds of our guests take their pizzas to go and about one-third of our guests eat in. JT: Then you were ready, in the last year, to open up another one. How did you get this amazing location, next to the Metro and across from the Lincoln Theatre? SS: (Another sly grin came over his face and I got the impression I was not going to get the whole answer) We look for opportunistic real estate plays that work for our brand. I will say that in most cases our guests drive our curiosity on which neighborhoods to pursue by virtue of their requests for us to be where they are. JT: Where do you go from here and how do you want this to grow? SS: We plan to open four more locations in the immediate future. JT: In the immediate future? Where are

they going to be? SS: One is going to be in Brookland, one on Old Georgetown Road in Bethesda; then one space down from the E Street Theatre on E St. here in the Penn Quarter neighborhood of DC, and one in Germantown, Md. JT: How is your company structured to be able to handle this kind of expansion? SS: We have great people heading up different departments such as culinary and supply chain operations, store operations, people operations (I don’t like to use the term “human resources”), finance, training, branding, and design teams. JT: If you were to have one overriding theme, what would it be? SS: We want to build connections within the communities where we are fortunate to serve. We like to think of being in the business of selling experiences using pizza as the excuse to do that. JT: Good luck, Steve! I have this feeling you will be an overwhelming success, especially if a high energy level is any indication of your progress. SS: Thanks for thinking of us. I enjoyed spending time with you. JAY TREADWELL, FCSI, is General Partner of The Optimum Group, consulting for restaurants, foodservice companies, and is a specialist in start-ups and independent school foodservice operations. He is also a past president of the Cornell Hotel Society, a worldwide organization of graduates of the School of Hotel Administration at Cornell University. Contact info: jay@ theoptimumgroup.us; 301.656.8335 or (c)301.602.9477; www.theoptimusgroup.us


Your Farm to Fork Specialist Our pasture-raised meat and game is locally sourced from sustainable, independent farmers in the area. Pasture-raised beef, pork, lamb and game meats from our farmers are processed under USDA inspection in our plant. Fresh, pasture-raised, local product from our farmers to your restaurant. Providing you with great proteins, these are some of the farms—and their locations—we currently work with: KCC Farms • Forest Hill, Md. free range chickens and game birds

Blue-Greens Farm • Quicksburg, Va. Ossabaw pork

Nibble Green Farm • Hagerstown, Md. free range rabbits

Roseda Beef • Monkton, Md. Black Angus beef

Stoney Point Farm Market • Littlestown, Pa. all natural smoked products

Langenfelder Farm • Sudlersville, Md. hormone and antibiotic free pork

Wagon Wheel Ranch • Mt. Airy, Md. all natural Berkshire pork, grass fed free range lamb

Happy Hens Barnyard • Md. all natural, vegetarian fed diet, duck eggs

All of these products are delivered to our facility fresh from the farmers and ready for processing every day. By doing business with local farms, we are helping the environment and keeping our farms sustainable.

For more information about our local lineup of meats, contact us at 410-539-5600 2730 Wilmarco Avenue • Baltimore, MD 21223 • www.fpwmeats.com Follow Us on Twitter: @fpwmeats and Facebook: Fells Point Wholesale Meats


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Nothing Completes the Plate Like a GREAT STEAK!


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