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Volume 15, No. 11 n November 2016
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PIZZERIA PARADISO
25 Years of the Best with Ruth Gresser
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insidefsm Volume 15, No. 11
November 2016
news and information
columns
Capital Food Fight………………………………………………………………………………… 3
Sauce on the Side………………………………………………………… 2
Chilean Chef Challenge…………………………………………………………………………… 4
Restaurateur’s World by Michael Sternberg……………………… 15
Association News OCHMRA …………………………………………………………………… 8
Food Smarts by Juliet Bodinetz……………………………………… 16
Ruth Gresser: Celebrating 25 Years of Pizzeria Paradiso …………………………… 10
Balti-MORE by Dara Bunjon………………………………………… 17
Michelin Stars…………………………………………………………………………………… 14
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Volume 15, No. 11 n November 2016
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Bob Brown Says by Bob Brown………………………………………… 9
PIZZERIA PARADISO
25 Years of the Best with Ruth Gresser
Working in America by Becki Young………………………………… 18 The Latest Dish by Linda Roth……………………………………… 20
Association News VRLTA ……………………………………………………………………… 21
Whining ’n Dining by Randi Rom …………………………………… 22
Ad Index…………………………………………………………………………………………… 23
Modern Business Solutions by Henry Pertman………………… 24
on the cover Pizzeria Paradiso’s Ruth Gresser photo: Fredde Lieberman
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Foodservice Monthly is the only publication to be awarded the RAM Allied Member of the Year award and the RAMW Joan Hisaoka Associate Member of the Year award, the highest honor for a non-restaurant member.
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NOVEMBER 2016 | 1
SAUCE ON THE SIDE
Get Well, Fearless Leader
F
or regular readers of Michael Birchenall’s monthly column, you learned all about his terrific 2017 plans for Foodservice Monthly in the October issue. Sadly, those plans didn’t include a medical emergency just as he was getting the November issue together. As many of you know, Michael was the recipient of a new lung a few years ago. So while he’s temporarily down, according to his wife, Acqua, he’s doing better and better, and plans on getting the December issue out on time. In the meantime, under the strong leadership and amazing efforts of the indomitable Linda Roth, working with all the other regular contributors and columnists that Michael generously celebrated in his last column, the show must go on, so we all pulled together to get this November issue out. Rather than try to fill Michael’s incredibly large shoes by using my own words in this column, I am sharing the following thoughts from my fellow contributors on the holidays, the outgoing Obama administration, the incoming Trump administration, and, of course, some words of encouragement and holiday cheer to the entire Birchenall family. “With every new administration, we hope the President and the White House staff dine out
frequently. Our local restaurant operators have built a thriving industry here, as evidenced by the new Michelin Guide and Bon Appetit’s accolade earlier this year. The current administration has been visible in countless restaurants across the region, raising the profile of the industry, and we hope the trend continues.” Kathy E. Hollinger RAMW President & CEO “Sending a big, fat holiday shout out and Yule time hug to my amazing editor, Michael Birchenall. Thank you for your support and friendship all of these years. Like many others in the hospitality industry who, day after day, generously donate their time, energy and food for so many causes, you, my fearless leader, are an inspiration.” Randi Rom “While this column is labeled Sauce on the Side,” that is not Michael. He is sauce in the middle, always mixing it up as a main course of intelligent information about the restaurant business. Come back soon, Michael, and stir the pot, creating a dish that is entral to our need for your take on the Washington scene. I am thankful for your perspective; you are no turkey! Get well and come back into the middle of it all.” Jay Treadwell
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“When Barack Obama was elected president, I was thankful for renewed hope and pride, and subsequently for his administration’s many accomplishments. The first time I heard Obama speak was while watching the 2004 Democratic National Convention, I was transfixed. Four years later, we were watching the returns at a Capitol Hill bar, when Obama was proclaimed the winner. We burst into tears of joy. As we were leaving, I saw an African-American man bent over the sidewalk. I asked his wife what was wrong and she replied, he’s kissing the ground. The incoming administration? I am grateful that we live in a nation that can disagree, even when we are so bitterly divided. I hope we can come together, heal and perhaps learn. Most important: Our best wishes to Michael for his continuing recovery, and to his amazing wife, Acqua.” Celeste McCall “Restaurateurs are always the pioneers, the risk-takers, the adaptors — as the mother of
Volume 15, No. 11 n November 2016
Contact
Editor and Publisher michael@foodservicemonthly.com Sales Manager lisa@foodservicemonthly.com Design and Production fsm@eink.net Dennis Barry, Juliet Bodinetz, Bob Brown, Dara Bunjon, Andrew Kline, Celeste McCall, Henry Pertman, Randi Rom, Linda Roth, Michael Sternberg, Jay Treadwell, Becki Young phone: 703-471-7339 email: info@foodservicemonthly.com fax: 866-961-4980 web: www.foodservicemonthly.com
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Foodservice Monthly, a division of Silver Communications, Corp., is owned and published by Silver Communications, Corp. The Foodservice Monthly mission is to provide Mid-Atlantic foodservice professionals with news and information in an informed, imaginative and insightful newsmagazine. Foodservice Monthly assumes no responsibility for material submitted to us. All information contained in this publication is believed to be accurate. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part or transmitted in any form without prior permission from the publisher of Foodservice Monthly.
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“Michael’s illness is a reminder of how the things we really ought to be thankful for — family, friends and our health, are the things we take the most for granted. Much love and warm wishes to Michael and the entire Birchenall family. And a very joyous Thanksgiving to all of you.” Michael Sternberg
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necessity. As we have always led the way, and will continue to do so, I believe, just like Dave Chappelle, that we give President-elect Donald Trump a chance — and he does the same. On an industry note, I am thankful there will be another presidential inaugural to boost everyone’s January sales — every four years there’s an asterisk for same-store-sales … (Michael hates those dots…) I am amazed at the creative energy that Michael Birchenall has shown throughout the years — and his patience and stamina getting our region’s only restaurant industry trade publication out each month. Just working on this one issue has given me a whole new respect for you, Michael.” Linda Roth
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FSM NEWS
DC Central Kitchen’s Capital Food Fight Annual charity event raises $694,000
DC
Central Kitchen’s Capital Food Fight on November 10 was hosted and emceed by José Andrés and Spike Mendelsohn. The event drew over 1,000 guests to taste offerings from more than 75 of DC’s best restaurants while watching four local top chefs compete in a live onstage battle hosted and judged by the biggest names in the culinary world. Chef Samuel Kim of 1789 took home the top honors. Chefs Andrew Markert (Beuchert’s Saloon), George Rodrigues (Tico DC) and Theary So (Hank’s Oyster Bar) created dishes judged by some of the biggest names in the culinary world: Michael Voltaggio (chef/ owner, ink. and Sack Sandwiches), Duff Goldman (chef and TV personality), and Rusty Hamlin (chef and TV personality). Event founder José Andrés (chef/owner,
Emcee chef José Andrés foodservicemonthly
ThinkFoodGroup) and Spike Mendelsohn CONTESTANTS (chef and restaurateur) SAMUEL KIM co-hosted the annual 1789 event. ANDREW MARKERT Presented by Tyson, the Capital Food Fight Beuchert’s Saloon brought together over GEORGE RODRIGUEZ 1,200 guests, 75 tasting Tico restaurants, as well as cocktail mixologists THEARY SO and live on-stage Hank’s Oyster Bar, entertainment. Battling Dupont Circle chefs were asked to create dishes using secret JUDGES ingredients ranging Michael Voltaggio DC Central Kitchen CEO Mike Curtin and DC Mayor Muriel Bowser from sweet Italian rope Rusty Hamlin sausage, presented by Duff Goldman Tyson, to green beans, chair of the District’s hunger and poverty by preparing presented by Mann’s Workforce Investment unemployed adults for culinary and Keany Produce. Chef Kim Council, Andy Shallal, were also in careers, transforming wasted won the final battle over Theary attendance at the annual fundraising food into nutritious meals for So for his creative use of Brainfood event. Shallal and other VIPs could homeless shelters and nonprofits, Homegrown’s Vadouvan Curry be found in the event’s exclusive serving award-winning farmPopcorn presented by Whole Foods. Chairman’s Overlook room, tasting to-school menus to low-income The event raised $694,000 for special dishes prepared by alumni schoolchildren, and delivering fresh DC Central Kitchen, which earns of the popular Bravo TV series Top produce and healthy snacks to 60 percent of its $13 million annual Chef, including chefs Mike Isabella, corner stores in DC’s food deserts. budget through social enterprise Jen Carroll, George Pagonis, For a full listing of all Capital Food ventures that employ at-risk adults Marjorie Meek-Bradley, and brothers Fight tasting restaurants, competitors, to serve healthy food in DC. The Bryan and Michael Voltaggio. hosts and judges, please visit www. remaining 40 percent is secured DC Central Kitchen addresses capitalfoodfight.org. through charitable fundraising like the Capital Food Fight. DC Central Kitchen knows a thing or two about culinary creations, winning national recognition for its scratchcooked, locally sourced meals for DC schools. In all, the organization serves more than three million meals to schools, homeless shelters, and partner nonprofits each year, and helps nearly 100 culinary students trade incarceration, addiction, and homelessness for culinary careers annually. Mayor Muriel Bowser and Tim Ma Victor Albisu, Jamie Leeds, Jeff Strine Rich Falbo, Landon Barnes The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On
NOVEMBER 2016 | 3
FSM NEWS continued
Winners Revealed at Chilean Chef Challenge
A Celebration of Chilean Products Leads to Chef and Mixologist Winners
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roChile, Foods From Chile and the Restaurant Association Metropolitan Washington (RAMW) held their third annual Chilean Chef Challenge last night at the National Restaurant Association building in Washington, DC. Guests had the opportunity
to eat, drink and experience Chile with seven chefs and six mixologists creating dishes and cocktails using Chilean products and the inspiration of Chilean culture. Patrons had the night to taste all dishes and cocktails and cast their votes for their favorites. The
esteemed judges were: Juan Gabriel Valdés Ambassador to the US Rodrigo Andres Contreras Trade Commissioner Laura Hayes Food Editor, Washington City Paper Tierney Plumb Associate Editor, Eater DC Monica Bhide Writer and Blogger
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There were four winners; judges votes for favorite dish and cocktail, and the people’s choice for the same two categories. The winners were:
Judges’ Food Choice
Chef Victor Albisu of Del Campo created an Olive Oil Merquen Salmon. The salt-baked Chilean salmon with merquen-spiced bagna cauda was a nod to the great seafood Chile has to offer.
Judges’ Cocktail Choice
Tim Russell at Kyirisan created a masterpiece cocktail using Waqar Pisco named Winter Is Coming, made with apricot brandy, peppercorn syrup, lemon juice and topped with crushed black pepper for a spicy finish.
People’s Food Choice
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Amin Seddiq of Del Campo gave guests something to truly enjoy with The Bad Hombre, with cucumber infused Alto Del Carmen Pisco,
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Chef Steve Mason, center, of Grilled Oyster Co won the people’s choice vote. With Mason are Jay Garrison and Rick Dugan. fresh lime, Blanc De Blanc and a beet reduction. Other Chefs who participated included Chef Rob Rubba of Hazel, Chef George Rodrigues of TICO, Chef Nathan Beauchamp of The Fainting Goat, Chef Theary So of Hank’s Oyster Bar and Chef Rodney Scruggs of Occidental Grill & Seafood. Mixologists who shook up the event with pisco cocktails were Nick Farrell of Iron Gate, AJ Johnson of Macon Bistro, Adrian Cane of TICO and James Nelson of BLT Steak. Kristy MacDonald of Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House was the guest Sommelier who poured a variety of Chilean wines. The geographic isolation of Chile, which is positioned between the Pacific Ocean, Andes Mountains, the Atacama Desert and the Patagonian glaciers, provides a pristine environment for healthy and beneficial growth and production of agriculture, ensuring food quality beyond compare. The culinary competition was sponsored by Foods from Chile, RAMW, National Restaurant Association, Wines of Chile, Belair Produce, Watermark Foods, Pisco Waqar, Kappa Pisco, Pisco Alto del Carmen, Acme Paper & Supply, Inc, Lap Imports, Chile Olive Oil, Aramidita, Capel, Bou Barroeta, CohnReznick and Congressional Seafood. foodservicemonthly
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FSM NEWS continued
NRAEF, AH&LA and JFF Partnership Formed, Contract Awarded The National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation (NRAEF) officially announced that the partnership with the American Hotel & Lodging Association (AH&LA) and Jobs for the Future (JFF), a national non-profit that supports the
creation of a skilled, competitive workforce, has been awarded a $1.8 million contract by the U.S. Department of Labor’s Employment & Training Administration. This award will allow the Foundation and its partners to create and implement a national Hospitality Sector Registered Apprenticeship (HSRA) initiative for the restaurant, foodservice and hotel and lodging industries. Moreover, the
contract includes the option to renew funding beyond the initial investment by the Department of Labor for up to five years. By teaming with the AH&LA and JFF this summer, NRAEF delivered a powerful and compelling proposal that calls for the development of a management-level apprenticeship program for the hospitality sector, with multiple and varied pathways for employers and workers to participate. Ultimately, this project will increase diversity and inclusion of traditionally underrepresented and underserved audiences in apprenticeship programs nationwide. The successful collaboration with the AH&LA and JFF would not have been possible without pledges from employers in the private sector to participate and enroll workers in apprenticeship. Specifically, gratitude is extended to Firehouse of America, Golden Corral, TGI Fridays and White Castle for pledging their support
as representatives from the restaurant sector. In addition, acknowledgement goes to AH&LA for securing the participation of hospitality industry leaders Conrad Hilton Hotels and Resorts, Doubletree by Hilton, Embassy Suites by Hilton, Hilton Hotels & Resorts and Waldorf Astoria Hotels and Resorts. These trailblazing employers are to be commended for taking leadership roles in this endeavor. Their involvement will inspire additional employers to participate. The awarding of this contract represents an enormous validation of and vote of confidence for the mission and expanded focus and role of the Educational Foundation. More than ever, the Foundation is uniquely positioned to promote career path opportunities and support the workforce needs of the industry through its successful and growing platform of groundbreaking programming and resources.
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THE JOIE DE VIVRE MEMORIAL CELEBRATION OF THE LIFE OF CHEF MICHEL RICHARD was held at the Embassy of France on October 16. Pictured here are Gerard Pangaud and his wife Ann, Linda Roth and José Andrés.
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FSM NEWS continued
Paying It Forward On November 6, several DC-area restaurants showed their support for Whitman-Walker Health with a Walk and 5-K (formerly the AIDS Walk Washington) and a festive brunch. Each participating restaurant agreed to donate a portion of the brunch proceeds to benefit Whitman-Walker’s HIV.
New Overtime Regs On Dec. 1, the US Department of Labor’s updated federal regulations on overtime takes effect. The new rule raises the salary threshold for salaried employees who meet the duties test. For a restaurant or foodservice, this typically affects management level employees. To be compliant, restaurant and foodservice employers need to review their restaurant overtime policies and make adjustments to be compliant. The new overtime rules: • Guarantee time-and-half pay to any salaried employee earning under $47,476 a year ($913 a week) and who works more than 40 hours in a week; that’s double the current salary threshold of $23,660 ($455 a week). • Starting January 1, 2020, automatically updates the salary threshold every three years, tying it to the 40th percentile of full-time salaried workers in the lowest-income Census region (currently the South). Based on current wage trends, the DOL projects a salary threshold of more than $51,000 by January 1, 2020. • Makes no changes in the duties tests used to determine whether a salaried employee above the threshold is considered an Executive, Administrative or Professional employee and thus exempt from overtime pay. • For the first time, allows certain bonuses and incentive payments to count toward up to 10 percent of the new salary level. foodservicemonthly
Some employers may consider several options in response to the new salary threshold rule: • Raise salaries of affected employees above the new threshold to maintain the overtime exemption (provided these employees still meet the duties tests) • Maintain current salaries below the new threshold, but begin paying overtime after 40 hours • Reorganize workloads or adjust schedules to avoid overtime
Fairfax County Nixes Food Tax In a Virginia referendum, Fairfax County voters defeated the proposed 4 percent tax on restaurant meals. The measure lost handily despite the urging of some Board of Supervisors members. Opponents, including the Chamber of Commerce and restaurant groups, said the tax was unnecessary and would drive business into Fairfax City, Vienna and other nearby communities. They also argued that the increase was too much too soon, after the $100 million real estate tax increase imposed earlier this year, and skyhigh property tax on cars.
A New Record! On November 11, the culinary team from Stratford University successfully broke the Guinness World Record for tallest single cake! Built at Potomac Mills, the chefs constructed the 9’2” cake, shattering the world record by more than two feet. All proceeds from the sale of the cake benefited The Fisher House in Ft. Belvoir and Richmond, Va. from the Army in 2010 and is now school nutrition manager at North Laurel Elementary School in Laurel, Del. National Restaurant Association
Educational Foundation supports America’s armed forces through training and post-duty employment. To learn how, visit www.restaurant.org.
Veterans in the Foodservice Industry In honor of Veterans Day, Nov. 11, the National Restaurant Association showcased the careers of veterans working in the restaurant industry. Altogether, more than 250,000 military servicemen and women have gone on to successful culinary careers as civilians. The NRA highlighted former Navy cook Steve DeChazo, who now serves as director of the Food and Hospitality Institute at El Centro College in Dallas; Tom Morrisey, who retired from the Army after 24 years and is now head cheese maker for River Whey Creamery in Schertz, Texas; and Christopher Rogers, who retired
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NOVEMBER 2016 | 7
ASSOCIATION NEWS OCHMRA Susan L. Jones
Spring Expo Just Around the Corner 2017 OCHMRA Trade Expo The 43rd Annual Hotel-MotelRestaurant Association Trade Expo will take place on March 5 & 6 at the Ocean City Convention Center. This long-standing, midAtlantic Expo fills three halls of the waterfront Convention Center and
has grown to be one of the regions premier industry events. Attendees have the opportunity to experience what will be tomorrow’s hottest trends. This face-to-face interaction provides a valuable, efficient, and cost-effective opportunity to build business.
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CELEBRATING 70 YEARS! 8 | NOVEMBER 2016
The OCHMRA Trade Expo is more than just a trade show; it is a complete learning experience for improving business. Interactive educational sessions are being designed to help attendees gain insights and find inspiration for enhancing their companies. Exclusively serving the lodging and foodservice industry, eExhibit booths range from $325-$700 and are the most affordable in the industry, as the goal isn’t to make huge profits, but rather bring together the industry. “Bringing together hospitality buyers and sellers has always been paramount to the Ocean City Hotel-MotelRestaurant Association,” stated Event Manager Liz Walk. In fact, she noted they consider themselves “people connectors.” The Spring Trade Expo is held in the union-free Ocean City Convention Center. To reserve your place at the table, check out www. oceancitytradeexpo.com or call 1-800-626-2326, ext 2.
Welcome, Congrats & More The Maryland Tourism Development Board welcomed Harrison Group Hotels & Restaurants’ G. Hale Harrison to their board. Long-time hoteliers, the Abu-Zaid family, opened the new Microtel Inn & Suites in West Ocean City. Congrats to Mary Susan Jones, who, along with her team at Howard Johnson’s Plaza, won the “Hotel of the Year” award by Howard Johnson International. This property is part of the Boardwalk Hotel Group which, along with Pat Ambler-Perry, won American Bus
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Association’s 2016 “Best of the Best” award. The Grand Hotel promoted Kim Wooteon to director of sales and added Neil Little as the new sales manager. Mike McVay has joined oceanfront hotel, Ocean1 Hotel & Suites, as the new general manager. Welcome to Melora Olexo, who joined the team at Dunes Manor Hotel Suites as assistant general manager. Joining the Fenwick Inn’s new restaurant, OC360, is Heather Schraffran, who was appointed as their new food and beverage director. Welcome to Megan Gorecki, manager of our newest member, Chik-fil-A.
Fundraising Success Participating restaurants in Ocean City raised $44,118 in the United Way of the Lower Eastern Shore’s first Dine United OC competition held over the summer. Twenty-five restaurants competed against each other throughout the summer to raise money with campaigns. Winners include General’s Kitchen, Happy Jack Pancake House, Harrison’s Harbor Watch, Seacrets, The Embers Restaurant and Blu Crabhouse and Raw Bar. The Lower Eastern Shore’s division is one of 1,400 independent United Ways in the nation and the second largest non-profit behind the government. Twenty-five partners and 52 programs that United Way works with provide services within Worcester County.
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BOB BROWN SAYS Bob Brown
Achieve Technical Excellence: 10 Insights from a Service Guru
P
erforming technical skills seamlessly is vital to a great guest experience. To that end, I reached out to Ian Maksik, the Professor of Service, to share his take on tableside excellence. Ian, a Cornell graduate and Certified Dining Room Grand Master, has trained management and staff in more than 20 countries and every major U.S. city.
What are the lefts and rights of service? “It’s simple. Deliver plates or silverware from the right side with your right hand and from the left side with you left hand. And use the airplane landing, not the helicopter plop. You’re not invading your guest’s space, and you can be the stealth waiter,” Ian explains.
Why hold a knife by the waist? “There’s an art to handling silverware, also known as flatware. Hold a knife by the waist, the spot between the blade and handle, and hold forks and spoons by the neck. Then you’ll never transfer germs to guests.”
What’s the secret to cocktail tray service? First, make sure you place glasses and bottles in the middle of the tray, from heaviest to lightest touching. Next, hold the tray in your left hand using your forearm, thumb, and pinkie. Use your free right hand to serve or clear. And, never hold a tray by the rim with your thumb because you’ll receive an embarrassing round of applause from the peanut gallery as drinks go flying to the floor.
What about salt and pepper shakers? “Since most guests are rightfoodservicemonthly
handed and reach for the salt first, place the salt closest to the right hand with the pepper touching the salt. When all items that make up the mise en place, from salt and pepper, to flowers, to napkins, are lined up the same at every table, it creates a sense of comfort and calm.”
How do you keep a table spotless? “It’s important to constantly clear and maintain your tables, since the more you clear the more you sell. Use a crumber on a clothed table or a tightly folded napkin on a naked table. Remember to sweep the crumbs into a plate or tray, not your hand, otherwise they’ll end up on Mrs. Millgiligy’s $1,000 Chanel dress.’
to ensure the eating portion of silverware is not touched.”
What’s the secret to serving booths? “Place your right hip against the table and serve guests on the left booth bench with your right hand. Conversely, place your left hip against the table and serve the guests on the right booth bench with your left hand. This approach prevents backhanding and lets you maintain eye contact.”
How do you take the fear out of carrying big trays? “The proper way to carry a large waiter’s tray is to use what I call DC, short for ‘Dead Center’ carry. With it, you place the palm of your strongest hand dead center and
flat on the underside of the tray with your fingers facing toward the rear as if you’re about to take a one-handed basketball shot. At the same time, tuck the forearm of your carrying hand against your side. When doing this, you can carry a 500-pound gorilla; you may go down, but the tray never will.”
What are the six items a waiter should always carry? “Pen and pad to take orders and notes, matches or lighter for candles and canned heat for private functions, wine key, crumber or side towel, date book, and a smile that leaves your troubles at home” In the end, always ask yourself, “Is it healthy, safe, logical, and
BOB BROWN SAYS cont. on page 23
Why not the waterfall pour? Avoid annoying your guests by being tentative with glassware. When pouring water or hot beverages, never lift a glass or cup off the table. Simply slide the glass toward you. Remember to never waterfall pour or lean a pitcher against a glass. And, for a classy touch, do what I learned from page one of my Cornell manual. Place a splashguard between the glass and guest. And, by the way, boost tips from lefties. Place their coffee cup on the left side with the handle at 8:00.”
How do you avoid the “ho hum, roll-up” syndrome? “No guests like roll-ups scattered willy-nilly around the table, or worse, flung at them. Place this all-in-one utensil napkin combo in a standardized fashion to create a professionally set table. Or, with an envelope fold, place the sliver so that only the handles show The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On
NOVEMBER 2016 | 9
RUTH GRESSER
CELEBRATES STRENGTH IN NUMBERS: 25 YEARS WITH
PIZZERIA PARADISO
G
rowing up in Baltimore, Gresser had learned to cook, as many chefs do, at her mother’s side, helping out in the family catering business before ending up in the kitchen at a local McDonald’s, slinging burgers and fries. It was after graduating summa cum laude from Madeleine Kamman’s Classical and Modern French Cooking School and working in fine dining restaurants such as Obelisk and Le Pavillon that Gresser began thinking about opening her own restaurant. “I wanted someplace where my friends and I could go out to eat more easily,” she says.
10 | NOVEMBER 2016
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beer director Josh Fernands collaborated with Nathan Zener of Right Proper Brewing Company on a special 25th anniversary beer, which will be available at each location.
In a conversation Ruth had with FSM on the 25th anniversary night celebration, she mentioned that 25 years ago there was no VPN, Naples-based Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, to give its blessing to pizzerias. She didn’t need that certification agency to create crust more like country bread than the Americanized chewy crusts. And there is balance and delicacy in the toppings. It’s not more = better. Pizza Paradiso gave craft beers a platform before microbreweries became so cool and prevalent. Why does she think she has not only survived, but thrived for 25 years? “I founded Paradiso to be a nice place, where I could laugh with my co-workers.” That, and being a chef-driven, high-quality single concept restaurant. Pizza. It’s an American institution — just like baseball — able to withstand the test of time and unconditional love by the people. And, as she says in the opening line of her cookbook “Kitchen Workshop Pizza” (Quarry, 2014), “Everybody loves pizza.” It’s true — but when Gresser moved from San Francisco to D.C. in the late ‘80s, she encountered a pizza desert. “There wasn’t any of what there is now,” she says, “so I ended up creating a job for myself and a place to eat with my friends at the same time.” The job she created, back in 1991, was the first location of the now-celebrated Pizzeria Paradiso in Georgetown (3282 M St., N.W.), which has expanded over the last two decades to include locations in Dupont Circle (2003 P St., N.W.) and Old Town Alexandria (124 King St.), as well as Veloce, a fast-casual concept in downtown D.C. “Making good food is just fun,” she says. “The original idea was to keep it very simple, very Italian, in a way that people just weren’t really making pizza in D.C. at that time.” For locals who were used to the greasy slices found at corner takeout spots, Gresser’s pizzas may have seemed like a mistake at first with yeasty crisp crusts, lightly charred and topped with a light coating of fresh tomato sauce and a scattering of cheese. Former Washington Post food critic Phyllis Richman once called Gresser’s pizzas, “creative without stepping beyond the bounds of tradition — or good sense,” with classic toppings that still have a playful edge, from baby arugula to potatoes to mussels to eggs. Now often referred to as the matriarch of pizza in D.C., it was Gresser’s focus on true Neapolitan pizza that stoked the city’s pizza foodservicemonthly
renaissance and residents’ demand for something more than mounds of pepperoni and cheese. “At this point,” Gresser says, “we just make whatever strikes us. Pizza gives us flexibility to create.” But for Gresser, pizza has also been a platform to work outside her restaurants on issues close to her heart, from supporting arts organizations — her wife, Barbara Johnson, is a visual artist and also executive director for Art Works Now in Prince George’s County — to being active in organizations that support women in the culinary industry, such as Les Dames d’Escoffier and as immediate past president of the board of directors of Women Chefs and Restaurateurs. “It’s a hard business for anybody,” Gresser says, “but that dismisses the struggles that only women face. There are more women in the field, but far fewer at the top. Cooking was a woman’s field historically, but when it became a profession for men, women became outsiders.” At the same time, Gresser acknowledges that, because the restaurant industry has always been an alternative industry, it became a welcoming place for the LGBT community, including for herself as a young chef. Now in its 25th year, Pizzeria Paradiso is celebrating the milestone at all three locations from Nov. 14-20 with a throwback menu — at throwback prices — from 1991, including the original Paradiso Pizza for $6.95, Panino di Arrosto di Verdure (a roasted vegetable sandwich) for $4.95, and housemade gelati for $3.95. As one of the first restaurants in the area to
introduce a craft beer program, beer will naturally be part of the celebration;
Originally published by the Washington Blade. Reprinted with permission.
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FRESHFARM MARKET FEAST&FUNDRAISER Union Market • Washington, DC
Supporters included Garner’s Produce, Firefly Farms, Up Top Acres, Ecofriendly Foods, True Chesapeake Oyster Co, Spring Gap Mountain Creamery, Keswick Creamery, Old World Breads, Shepherd’s Whey Creamery, Three Springs Fruit Farm
David Nellis, Nycci Nellis and Salt & Sundry owner Amanda McClements
2 Birds, 1 Stone’s Adam Bernbach and Jason Stone
DC Central Kitchen’s Mike Curtin and Louisa Swain
RAMW’s Kathy Hollinger and Nora Pouillon
12 | NOVEMBER 2016
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NOVEMBER 2016 | 13
KUDOS
M
ichelin announced its first selection of the Michelin Guide Washington 2017. With more than 33 styles of cuisine, it highlights the diversity and richness of the local DC culinary scene. Three restaurants have been awarded two stars: Minibar, where under the eyes of his customers, chef José Andrés offers particularly avantgarde and innovative cuisine in the form of a tasting menu featuring whimsical and fun dishes; Pineapple & Pearls, opened earlier this year by chef Aaron Silverman, has perfectly flavored
dishes reflecting a wide range of influences; and The Inn at Little Washington, which is outside of Washington and has long offered the classic and eclectic French cuisine in a stunning setting, all of which is orchestrated by celebrity chef Patrick O’Connell. “Over the last five years the culinary offering has significantly developed in the city, driven by chefs who have travelled, have trained abroad and have enriched their cuisine on their return by incorporating new techniques, new flavors, and new seasonings,” says
José Andrés
Patrick O’Connell
Michael Ellis, International Director of the Michelin guides. “This gastronomic revival is amplified and supported by the “Mid-Atlantic cuisine” led by young chefs who have decided to take advantage of their terroir and work local products, thereby giving Washington a unique culinary identity.” Rose’s Luxury, by chef Aaron
Aaron Silverman
Jeremiah Langhorne
Silverman, and The Dabney, by chef Jeremiah Langhorne, have been awarded one star in this first selection for the Michelin Guide Washington. Seven other restaurants have been awarded one star — Blue Duck Tavern, Kinship, Plume, Tail Up Goat, Masseria, Fiola and Sushi Taro.
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RESTAURATEUR’S WORLD Michael Sternberg
Can’t Make This Stuff Up
I
recently completed a recruiting search for a couple of top-level management positions. Great client. International company. Six figure base salaries, bonuses and benefits. I don’t typically do recruiting, but since this was a very targeted search with some highly specific criteria, for this particular client and in consideration of the quality of the opportunities being offered, I was happy to assist. We ended up with some really great candidates, people I was proud to present to my client. However, getting to that select crowd was quite an adventure. I met some terrific people, some of whom, even though they weren’t selected, I hope to speak to again in the future. And alternatively, I spoke to some of the oddest characters I’ve encountered in my professional career. “How odd?” you ask. How about the guy who started off by saying he wouldn’t speak to me until I told him the base salary range? (I declined and thanked him for his time.) Or the guy who when asked about what makes him the right candidate for the job replied that he “… dressed very well. I even wear French cuff shirts with cufflinks.” He went on to say that he’d be the perfect candidate because “I know lots of millionaires and a few billionaires.” Not odd enough for you? Same candidate’s follow-up
email to me consisted of three lines. He said it was nice talking to me and stated that he needed 48-hours notice for an in-person interview. He then wrote that he was much too busy to have his time wasted, so if I wasn’t serious about him, I needed to let him know within 24 hours. (I can assure you, it didn’t take that long.)
dropped call, I called him back and texted him – several times. Never heard from him again. Those were the worst of the bunch, but even serious candidates showed some very poor interview skills. One of the top candidates (on paper) when prompted for questions asked, “What can you tell me about the company?” I replied, “What do you know already?” He responded that he knew where the property
HE SAID IT WAS NICE TALKING TO ME AND STATED THAT HE NEEDED 48-HOURS NOTICE FOR AN IN-PERSON INTERVIEW. HE THEN WROTE THAT HE WAS MUCH TOO BUSY TO HAVE HIS TIME WASTED, SO IF I WASN’T SERIOUS ABOUT HIM, I NEEDED TO LET HIM KNOW WITHIN 24 HOURS. Or what of the young man whose phone interview description of his career had very few similarities to the résume he had provided. He had listed people I know very well as his current employers. I mentioned that I had just had lunch with one of his bosses and told him that our conversation would be kept strictly confidential. He paused for a moment and began describing his fairly significant role in a couple of companies that weren’t listed in his résume. I listened for a while and asked for chronological clarification since what he was saying didn’t align with his written work history. “When were you there?” I asked. He mumbled something and the phone went dead. Assuming that it was a
was but that was it. I suggested that he needed to do his homework if he wanted to be considered for the job. He answered, “What do you mean?” Or how about the candidate that was so intent on creating an image as being highly desirable, spent most of the time of the in-person interview telling me about all his other job opportunities. He didn’t get passed on to the client. Or the highly experienced former GM of some very good restaurants who asked, “Do you really need my résume or should I just come in?” He was insulted that I insisted on a résume and a cover letter and to prove his disdain, sent a generic form letter leaving the spots for the property name and addressee blank
although he had the information for both. On the other hand, there were some great examples of good business etiquette and intelligence. How about the terrific candidate, who not only had done his homework, he knew more about the parent company than I did (and I’ve been working with them for two years.) There was the candidate who followed up his phone interview with a series of thoughtful question on the plans and goals for the property. After the in-person interview, we received an outline plan of how he would attack his first 100 days on the job in order to attain those goals. There was a candidate who after being notified that she would not be selected, wrote a beautiful note back on how honored she was to be considered and that she hoped we’d keep her in mind in the future. There is a lesson in today’s sermon. They are the ones that got the jobs. MICHAEL STERNBERG is an awardwinning expert in a wide array of foodservice venues including restaurants, hotels, stadiums, arenas and airports with operations ranging from full-service to grab & go. He is CEO of Sternberg Hospitality, a full-service restaurant and hospitality consultancy, and a principal in Mokja Ventures, an investment fund for creative, scalable restaurant concepts. He can be reached at: michael@ sternberghospitality.com or 703-298-2706.
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NOVEMBER 2016 | 15
FOOD SMARTS Juliet Bodinetz
Hepatitis A Virus … For Real
W
hen teaching Food Service Manager Certification classes, we always cover the foodborne illnesses referred to as the “BIG SIX” by the Food & Drug Administration (FDA). Please note that any food handler with any foodborne illness is to be EXCLUDED from working in the establishment. But should an infected/sick food handler employee have one of these foodborne illnesses from the big six, not only should the boss exclude that employee, but by law they must also notify their local health department. This allows your local health department to monitor the illness to make sure it is not an outbreak. The big six illnesses are: Hepatitis A Virus Norovirus E-Coli (Shiga toxin) Salmonella Typhi Salmonella, non typhoidal Shigella
At the beginning of “all” of my food safety classes, I explain that any foodborne illness is horrible as no one wants to be sick or the cause of making someone ill or even dying. I always ask that all my students “act as if you are sick and to behave as if all of the people being served food are in a high risk population.” The High Risk Population is considered those with a weaker or lowered immune system, like the young, elderly and pregnant. The truth is that there are many more that can be considered in the High Risk Population who are not evident by looking at someone, i.e. someone with cancer undergoing radiation or chemo treatment or a transplant recipient. For that reason, emphasis is placed to act as if everyone they serve is considered as part of the High Risk Population. Additionally, I tell my students that, “Hepatitis A Virus scares me more than any other illness.” Hepatitis A Virus is very
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contagious and affects the liver. Each foodborne illness can have a different incubation period to show symptoms of illness. The reason Hepatitis A Virus scares me more than any other foodborne illness is because the incubation period is so long before showing symptoms of jaundice — yellowing of the skin and eyes. Jaundice is indicative that your liver is not working to remove toxins from your body and turning yellow, takes time for those toxins to accumulate to change skin and eye color. Jaundice can show up as quickly as 15 days, and usually 28-50 days, but can take as long as months to show up. This petrifies me as this means a food handler is capable of contaminating thousands of people without even being aware that they themselves are sick! Those with Hepatitis A Virus are usually contagious about one to two weeks before and at least one week after jaundice appears. Hepatitis A Virus, like the other Big Sick illnesses is carried by feces. Usually, Hepatitis A Virus is contracted from person to person via “fecal-oral route.” A person has put something in their mouth that has been contaminated with feces from another contaminated person, usually due to inadequate handwashing and then touching someone’s food. It can also be caused by sewage contaminated water or not washing produce adequately and from shellfish harvested in fecal/sewage waters. At the end of the day, the best way to avoid contaminating someone with Hepatitis A Virus is to wash your hands. Wash your hands before preparing food and especially after going to the bathroom. Wash your produce properly to remove any manure or sewage water that might have been used to irrigate crops. Purchase shellfish from an
16 | NOVEMBER 2016
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approved supplier with Shellstock ID tags. A Hepatitis A Virus vaccine was developed in 1995. It should provide immunity to Hepatitis A for approximately 25 years in adults and about 14-20 years for children. There is no requirement for those working in the food industry to take the Hepatitis A Virus vaccine even though we have outbreaks all the time every year. Cost is likely a factor for the decision to not make it mandatory. The vaccine costs about $150-$200 per employee. Please note that there are five kinds of main Hepatitis called A, B, C, D and E. Hepatitis A and E Virus are of fecal origin. Hepatitis B, C and D Viruses are transmitted by blood or bodily fluids and are not considered foodborne illnesses. Here is some good news! Once a person has been infected with Hepatitis A Virus, they cannot be re-infected and are immune for life. They do not continue to carry the virus which also means they cannot infect others. At the end of the day, the best preventative practice always comes back to the basics: proper handwashing. Wash your hands before preparing food and after going to the toilet. JULIET BODINETZ is the executive director of Bilingual Hospitality Training Solutions with more than 30 years industry and training experience. Her team of instructors’ specialty is food safety, alcohol training and ServSafe training in both English and Spanish; and writing HACCP Plans in the Baltimore/Washington D.C. metro area. www. bilingualhospitality.com, juliet@bilingualhospitality.com or 443-838-7561. For latest food safety tips, become a fan on Facebook or Twitter: @BHTS
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BALTI-MORE Dara Bunjon
THE SECRET TO POURING THE Mt. Vernon Is Ablaze with Baby’s On Fire PERFECT PINOT NOIR Music and food pair well at Baby’s On Fire where one can not only find organic pastries from Belgium made with French butter, Stumptown Coffee, an every changing menu of snack and lunch time edibles along with a large selection of curated LP’s to listen to and buy. Chef/Musician Shirlé Hale-Koslowski co-owner rocks it with her head barista Cristina Morales daily as they spin wax and entice café goers with their eclectic menu.
STARTS WITH A CLEAN GLASS.
DARA BUNJON: Dara Does It – Creative Solutions for the Food Industry offers public relations, social media training, administration, freelance writing, marketing and more. Contact Dara: 410-486-0339, info@dara-does-it.com or www.dara-does-it.com, Twitter and Instagram: @daracooks. Listen to her Dining Dish radio program on Baltimore Internet Radio.
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Shirlé Hale-Koslowski, right, and Cristina Morales foodservicemonthly
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NOVEMBER 2016 | 17
WORKING IN AMERICA Becki L. Young
Immigration and the Trump Presidency
O
n the tail of the most surprising Presidential election in recent memory, many Americans are wondering what comes next. In the area of immigration, following are some of the changes we may expect to see in the next four years:
mixed. The cost may be prohibitive and there are recent indications that at least part of the border wall might become a border fence, a possibility that Trump had rejected previously.
Mass Deportations
Border Wall Building a wall along the entire US-Mexico border, and making Mexico pay for it, is the first priority in Trump’s 10 Point Plan for immigration (https:// www.donaldjtrump.com/policies/ immigration). Yet the message about the border wall has been
Trump’s position on deportations has fluctuated wildly — at times he has threatened to deport all 11 million undocumented people in the US (which could cost hundreds of billions of dollars); more recently he said that he will deport up to 3 million criminal aliens immediately upon assuming office.
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Mandatory Detention Trump has promised mandatory detention of “anyone who illegally crosses the border” — another proposal that comes with an extremely high price tag.
Overturning Obama’s Executive Actions (DACA and DAPA) It’s predicted that these provisions will be an immediate fatality of the Trump presidency; renewing (or lodging a new application) will not likely be an option. Whether the work authorization of those currently granted DACA and DAPA will be revoked remains to be seen. Further, the federal government may use the information it has collected from DACA and DAPA applicants to identify and target the undocumented for deportation.
WE CAN EXPECT A SHARP INCREASE IN WORKPLACE ENFORCEMENT INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, WORKPLACE RAIDS AND I-9 AUDITS DURING THE TRUMP ADMINISTRATION. Legalization/ Comprehensive Immigration Reform (CIR)
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Based on promises by Trump during the campaign to deport the entire undocumented population and the recent appointment of leading CIR opponent Kris Kobach to spearhead his transition team on immigration policy it is safe to assume that there will be no comprehensive effort during the Trump presidency to legalize the undocumented population.
Extreme Vetting In August Trump proposed “extreme vetting” of immigrants to the US, which he said would
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include a test given to applicants “to determine if they share Western liberal values like LGBT and religious tolerance.” Such an idea is hard to square with his previous proposal to ban all Muslims from the US, though that proposal was later revised to suggest that instead of targeting a particular religion he would ban immigration from countries with widespread terrorism.
Asylum/Refugee Status The President has great latitude in setting the annual quotas for admission of refugees to the US. We can expect refugee numbers to drop precipitously during the Trump presidency, despite the fact that we are in the midst of the largest global refugee crisis since WWII, with more than 60 million displaced people around the world.
TPS Authority to designate citizens of a country for Temporary Protected Status (which offers temporary refuge in the US to those who are temporarily unable to safely return to their home country) is vested in the Secretary of Homeland Security. Given the current roster of candidates for the Cabinet role, we can expect the list of countries granted TPS to dwindle, and the status of those countries already designated for TPS to not be renewed.
LGBTQ Immigration Trump has a complicated history on LGBTQ issues, but within a week of the election he confirmed that same-sex marriage is a matter of settled law and he is “fine” with it, which would suggest that the ability of US citizens to sponsor their same sex spouses for immigration benefits
WORKING IN AMERICA cont. on page 18 foodservicemonthly
DMV LEGISLATIVE UPDATE
VIRGINIA UPDATE Fairfax County Food Tax The voters of Fairfax County voted down the meals tax referendum question. This means a 4% meals tax will not be added to the check on all prepared foods. Members of the business community and local restaurant owners formed the Fairfax Families Against the Food Tax Coalition, which was behind StoptheFoodTax.com, the collateral in restaurants and lawn signs all over of the County.
MARYLAND UPDATE MoCo Expansion of Paid Leave The Montgomery County Council unanimously approved Bill 32-16 that will extend the provisions of the County’s paid leave law for certain parental purposes. Bill 32-16 will add two related purposes for which use of paid leave accrued under the Earned Sick and Safe Leave law will be permitted. The bill will permit the use of paid leave for the birth of a child or for the placement of a child with the employee for adoption or foster care. It also will allow use of the leave to care for a
newborn, newly adopted or newly placed child within one year of birth, adoption or placement. The bill will go into effect immediately as expedited legislation. Earned Sick and Safe Leave (Bill 60-14) is paid leave that can be used for the injury or illness of the employee or the employee’s immediate family. It also can be used for time off needed due to domestic violence suffered by the employee or a member of the employee’s immediate family. The leave now also applies to birth of a child and adoption. Bill 60-14 requires an employer to provide earned sick and safe leave at a rate of at least one hour for every 30 hours an employee works in the County up to 56 hours in a calendar year. An employee must be paid for earned sick and safe leave at the same rate, and with the same benefits, as the employee normally earns. A tipped employee must be paid at least the County minimum wage for each hour the employee uses earned sick and safe leave. The Council approved an amendment to help small businesses. That amendment
provides that an employer with fewer than five employees would have to provide an employee with up to 32 hours of paid sick and safe leave per year plus an additional 24 hours of unpaid sick and safe leave. The bill applies to an employee, but not an independent contractor. The bill also excludes an employee who works less than eight hours a week.
Moco Allergen Training Requirement
Last week the Montgomery County Council passed Bill 33-16 which requires all eating and drinking establishments to have at least one allergen-trained staff member on duty. This requirement goes into effect July 1, 2017.
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA UPDATE Compostable/Recyclable Food Service Products Beginning January 1, 2017,
businesses and organizations that sell or serve food and beverages in the District must only use recyclable or compostable food service products. DOEE’s proposed regulations for the 2017 requirements are available via dcregs.dc.gov. The comment period on the proposed regulations closes on November 27, 2016. For more information on the 2017 requirements of the ban and anticipated compliant products, please see the attached flyer or visit doee.dc.gov/foam. Beginning in 2017 in Maryland, Montgomery County and Prince Georges County businesses will be required to use compostable or recyclable materials. In Montgomery County, this will be enforced through a consumer tip line, and in Prince George’s County it will be enforced through inspections.
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NOVEMBER 2016 | 19
THE LATEST DISH Linda Roth
International Flavors and Influences Continue to Grow GM & Chef Update Native Cuban Angel Roque was named head chef at Cuba Libre in Penn Quarter. Before he worked at Guillermo Pernot’s Cuba Libre flagship in Philadelphia, he was head chef at Restaurante Café del Oriente in Havana, Cuba. Expect to see hyperlocal Cuban specialties, as well as modern riffs on traditional dishes … Jammir Gray is now executive chef at Firefly in Dupont Circle. The CIA grad has built her career at Kimpton Hotels & Restaurants. She was most recently executive sous chef at Red Owl Tavern in Philadelphia. … Jordi Rojas Gallardo has been appointed executive chef for Fairmont Washington, D.C., Georgetown. Chef Gallardo was senior executive sous chef for Palace Hotel, in San Francisco. Born and raised in Barcelona, Spain, could there be delicious Spanish influence on the menu at the property? … Justin Abad will become general manager of Café Dupont at The Duport, which is also known as The Dupont Circle Hotel. He was formerly with Cashion’s Eat Place.
More Openings in Shaw Hakim Hamid, Kwame Bissie, Stone Emanuel and Malik Fall will open 1230Restaurant & Champagne Lounge at 1230 9th Street, NW, featuring FrenchAmerican Nouveau cuisine as well as offering over 100 different varietals of Champagne and sparkling wine. Malik Fall will be executive chef. He was most recently executive chef of Ken & Cook in the Bowery neighborhood of 20 | NOVEMBER 2016
Manhattan, NYC. Hakim will run the front of the house. He was previously general manager of OYA Restaurant & Lounge. A November opening is scheduled
Re-Openings James Beard award-winning chef Ann Cashion and John Fulchino prove you can go home again. Johnny’s Half Shell makes its return to where it all began on Columbia Road in Adams Morgan. Will their legendary 20-min-preptime roasted-chickens to-order also return? Stay tuned.
Cuba Libre’s Angel Roque
Quick Hits Central Place development near Rosslyn Metro will have sweetgreen, Nando’s Peri-Peri, The Little Beet and Compass Coffee … Little Beet Table, a full service version of the fast casual vegetarian restaurant will open at The Collection at Chevy Chase … Andy Shallal’s Busboys and Poets will open in a new redevelopment project on Martin Luther King Jr Avenue in SE DC , a pioneer project east of the Anacostia River. The ambitious project has targeted a Q4 2017 launch date … Darren Norris plans to open a second Maki Shop in Bethesda. The original is located in Logan Circle, DC … Happy Tart bakery in Alexandria’s Del Ray neighborhood has gotten approval to expand so that it can offer a restaurant component to the bakery at 2307 Mount Vernon Avenue … Glory Days Grill will open a
new restaurant at Barcroft Plaza Shopping Center in Falls Church in Q3 2017. It will be their seventh location in Fairfax County … Owen’s Ordinary in North Bethesda opened in the Pike & Rose development, featuring 75 Maryland beers, among its total of 250 bottles and draft beers.
Openings Update Dave & Buster’s will open at Ellsworth Place in Silver Spring the week of Thanksgiving … Ten Penh lives again — and plans to be open in Tysons at 7900 Westpark Dr. by the end of November … Maria and Fabio Trabocchi’s Sfoglina, their pasta concept restaurant in the Van Ness project, plans to open in early December … Lance Smith and Eric Wiildman, both alumni of Carrabas and Grady’s (Brinker)will open Steelfire Kitchen & Bar in Maplelawn Town Center in Howard County near Columbia,
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where Eric resides. The 240-seat restaurant (50 of those are on the outdoor patio) will feature American favorites, including build your own hamburgers and salads. Lance most recently hails from Chuy’s, where he managed the region. Eric also worked with Houston’s, so both have significant cred. The opening is planned for this month. Kudos to ProChile, consistently strong supporter of RAMW’s RAMMYS for the past 10 years, on its successful Chile Week campaign in the U.S. Although familiar with their phenomenal wines, we learned they are the world’s largest exporter of Pacific salmon, trout, blueberries, fresh grapes, plums and prunes — and we are the recipient of a quarter of their food and beverage exports. That trip to Chile just moved up on the schedule. LINDA ROTH is president of Linda Roth Associates, Inc. specializing in marketing, promotions and publicity in the hospitality industry. Contact Linda at 202-888-3571 or linda@lindarothpr.com or visit her website at www.lindarothpr.com foodservicemonthly
ASSOCIATION NEWS VRLTA Eric D. Terry
Extraordinary Hospitality and Tourism Professionals Honored by VRLTA
O
n Monday October 24, 2016, VRLTA honored hospitality and tourism professionals from across the Commonwealth of Virginia at the Association’s inaugural Ordinary Awards Dinner in Richmond. During the evening, 15 individuals and organizations were honored with an Ordinary Award for their outstanding work in the hospitality field and within their communities. The awards are named after Chinn’s Ordinary, which is considered “the oldest original inn in America” (Baltimore Sun, August 1996). Dating to 1728 in what is now Middleburg, Chinn’s Ordinary, operating today as the Red Fox Inn, chiefly catered to travelers between Alexandria and Winchester, Virginia. We are proud to honor these exemplary individuals and companies with the first ‘Ordinary Awards. And while the name of the program may exude simplicity, its ties to the early Ordinaries of Virginia is truly unique and is a
perfect antithesis to the extraordinary, exceptional individuals in our industry. The awards were presented by several members of Virginia’s hospitality industry including Debbie Donehey (owner, Griffin Tavern; VRLTA chair), Barry Biggar (president, Visit Fairfax; VRLTA board member), Paula Squires (managing editor, Virginia Business), and Kelli Lemon (Mama J’s Restaurant).
EMIL CORVERA (Ford’s Fish Shack) Restaurant Employee of the Year
HAL CRADDOCK (Craddock Terry Hotel) Hotelier of the Year
TRAVIS MILTON (Shovel and Pick; Appalachian Food Summit) Chef of the Year
HU ODOM (BOTH, Inc; Golden Corral) Jim Wordsworth Award, Restaurateur of the Year
JENNA WINES (Virginia Tech) Rising Pineapple Award, Hospitality & Tourism Student of the Year
The 2016 Ordinary Awards Winners
SYSCO VIRGINIA & SYSCO HAMPTON ROADS Hospitality Supplier of the Year
Rita McClenny (president, Virginia Tourism Corporation) was also on hand to honor the late Jim Ricketts with the Golden Pineapple Lifetime Achievement Award for his dedication to not only Virginia Beach tourism but to Virginia tourism as a whole. Additionally, Senator Thomas K. Norment, Jr. was honored with an Ordinary Award for Virginia Legislator of the Year for his commitment to Virginia tourism and the hospitality industry. We are extremely grateful to our sponsors, without whom this event would not have been possible. Our 2016 sponsors included Kings Dominion, Virginia Beach CVB, Visit Fairfax, Virginia Business, and the Williamsburg Area Chamber and Tourism Alliance.
KAREN BLAYLOCK (Kings Dominion) Charlie Buser Award, Travel Attraction Employee of the Year SARA SAAVEDRA (Abingdon CVB) Jim Ricketts Award, DMO/CVB Employee of the Year KRISTIN WINDERWEEDLE (The Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner) Hotel Employee of the Year
OLD OX BREWERY Beverage Producer of the Year
Virginia Creeper Trail (Abingdon, VA) Travel Attraction of the Year THE RITZ-CARLTON, TYSONS CORNER Hotel of the Year L’AUBERGE CHEZ FRANCOIS (Great Falls, VA) Restaurant of the Year
Karen Blaylock (Kings Dominion) accepts the first award of the evening, the Charlie Buser Award for Travel Attraction Employee of the Year, presented by Debbie Donehey and Barry Biggar.
The late Jim Ricketts, longtime director of the Virginia Beach CVB, received the Golden Pineapple Award for Lifetime Achievement. Presented by Eric Terry and Virginia Tourism Corporation president Rita McClenny, the award was accepted by employees Ron Kuhlman and Brande Rumpf. foodservicemonthly
Rising Pineapple Award winner Jenna Wines poses with Nancy McGehee, Hospitality & Tourism Management Department Head at Virginia Tech.
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Travis Milton poses for a picture after accepting the Chef of the Year Award. NOVEMBER 2016 | 21
WHINING ’N DINING Randi Rom
reFRESHed!
B
rian Boston, executive chef/ proprietor of the historic Milton Inn, located in Northern Baltimore County announced the completion of an extensive ($400,000) renovation and the launch of a new small plates menu featured in the c. 1740 Lounge. Chef Boston directed the creative team, comprised of Baltimore’s top designers to update the various dining areas which including the c. 1740 Lounge and The Terrace at The Milton Inn. Of note are exceptional prints by local photographer Cappy Jackson and a stunning room mural by acclaimed sporting artist Sam Robinson. Jackson’s work has appeared in the pages of Vanity Fair, The New York Times, GQ, The Baltimore Sun and Horse and Rider magazine. She was awarded the American Quarter Horse Association Photo of the Year from the United States Equestrian Federation. Robinson, whose family has lived in the Greenspring Valley since the 1860s, draws inspiration from nearby Maryland Hunt Country landscapes as well as Pimlico Race Course and the legendary Sagamore Farms.
Chef Boston purchased the restaurant — which will celebrate its 70th anniversary next year — in 1997, the last time a major renovation was completed. (The original fieldstone building dates back to the 1740s.) The place is absolutely gorgeous, people. “We’re known for our elegant dining rooms and superior cuisine featuring the highest quality ingredients,” said Boston. “But in keeping with the times, we’re doing a complete refresh. We want to extend our appeal to a younger audience. 22 | NOVEMBER 2016
People love the way the place looks, even after 20 years, so we still want to have the same elegant feeling the Milton Inn has always had, but try to do it in a slightly more modern way. And there are times when people want a more informal atmosphere, which is why we’ve crafted a fantastic small plates menu that’s served in our c. 1740 Lounge.” Long known as the place to go for special occasion celebrations, The Milton Inn’s lounge has become a go-to spot for those seeking ridiculously good food and service in a setting with a more casual vibe. The Lounge extends to The Hearth Room (showcasing a wood burning fireplace) with large screen TVs for sporting events as well as the Terrace. The plates may be small but the portions are substantial. Small plates. Big flavors! ”The Milton Inn has some serious creds. They’re the only restaurant in Baltimore County to receive the prestigious DiRoNA award, North America’s highest restaurant award based on cuisine, service and atmosphere as well as the prestigious 5-Star Diamond Award from the American Academy of Hospitality Services. Named 2011 Chef of the Year by The Restaurant Association of Maryland, Brian Boston’s kitchen produces cuisine that has been described by the Zagat Survey as “top ranked Traditional American Cuisine” every year since 2002. The Inn’s wine list is a perennial winner of the Wine Spectator “Award of Excellence.” I love me some Chef Brian! MiltonInn.com
The Milton Inn
Open for Biz Glory Days Grill, a sportsthemed family restaurant chain operating 27 corporate and franchised restaurants located in Virginia, Maryland, West Virginia and Florida, opened its newest restaurant in Edgewater (the second in Anne Arundel County) at the Village at Lee Airpark on Solomons Island Road. One very cool thing — they have an “Allergen Wizard” button on their website so you can enter what you’re allergic to and determine which dishes are ok to eat, Love that! GloryDaysGrill.com.
What’s Happening Lots ’o happenings at Baltimore’s only Basque-inspired restaurant, La Cuchara, in the Woodberry neighborhood. I haven’t been yet but the buzz is good and I’m looking forward to checking out the new Fall menu, specifically Chef Ben Lefenfeld’s crispy pork shank. FYI, Chef Ben’s brother (bar manager and co-owner) created a new craft cocktail menu to complement his bro’s dishes. Check out their upcoming events. LaCucharaBaltimore.com.
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Get your Irish on! The 43rd Annual Maryland Irish Festival is set for November 11-13, at the Timonium Fairgrounds.There will be plenty of traditional Irish food and drink, musical groups, kids activities, cultural exhibits from Ireland, contests, a speaker series and various vendors. And who doesn’t love an event in the Cow Palace? IrishFestival.com The popular brunch spot, Iron Rooster will open a third location in 2017 in the Hunt Valley Towne Center in the recently closed Joe’s Crab Shack. There are two other locations in Annapolis and Canton but the new restaurant will be the brand’s largestwith over 250 seats in 9,000 sq. ft. of space. More room to spread and enjoy your housemade pop tarts and free bacon! IronRoosterAllDay.com. RANDI ROM is a Baltimore special events planner, marketing and public relations maven, freelance writer and the head of R. J. Rom & Associates. Have a hot scoop? Contact Randi via email at randirom@comcast.net or phone 443-691-9671.
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WORKING IN AMERICA cont. from page 18 is secure, at least for the time being.
Enforcement (Raids and Audits)
NAFTA
We can expect a sharp increase in workplace enforcement including, but not limited to, workplace raids and I-9 audits during the Trump administration.
One of Trump’s campaign promises was to withdraw from NAFTA; as President he could do this unilaterally simply by giving six months’ notice. If, in fact, he chooses to withdraw as opposed to renegotiating, TN status for Canadians and Mexicans would cease to exist. What would happen to individuals in the US in TN status remains to be seen.
Other Employment-based Immigration Categories Trump’s 10 Point Plan doesn’t have a lot to say on legal immigration, except that he wants to “reform legal immigration to serve the best interests of America and its workers, keeping immigration levels within historic norms.” We can expect a mixed bag from the Trump Administration on working visas and employment-based green cards, as in other areas.
With 20 years of experience raising the standards higher on every new project and client
Everify and Biometrics Trump and his advisors have proposed using mechanisms such as e-Verify (https://www.uscis.gov/everify), the federal government’s electronic employment eligibility verification system, and biometric data to track immigrants “like Fedex packages.” We can expect more of such electronic enforcement initiatives such as this during the Trump Presidency. BECKI L. YOUNG, co-founder of Hammond Young Immigration, is a business immigration attorney with 20 years of experience in the field. She has represented more than 100 of the world’s most prominent hotels and restaurants, and facilitated the sponsorship of foreign professionals, trainees, interns and individuals of “extraordinary ability.” Ms. Young is an active member of the American Immigration Lawyers Association. She can be reached at 301917-6900 or byoung@hyimmigration.com.
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BOB BROWN SAYS cont. from page 9 legal.” When you master the art of table service, it lowers stress, you have more fun, and you boost your tips while dazzling guests. Note: Over the last 20 years, Ian Maksik and Bob Brown have delivered speeches and training at NACE, CareerSource and at scores of restaurants together as the “Feel and Spiel of Service.”
BOB BROWN, president of Bob Brown Service Solutions, www.bobbrownss.com, pioneered Marriott’s Service Excellence Program and has worked with Disney, Hilton, Morton’s of Chicago, Nordstrom, Olive Garden, and Ritz Carlton. He works internationally hotels such as Burj Al Arab in Dubai. He has appeared on the Food Network and authored the bestselling The Little Brown Book of Restaurant Success selling over 100,000 copies worldwide. Contact Bob for speeches, workshops, breakouts, executive retreats: 571-246-2944 ©Bob Brown Service Solutions 2014.
Fufills All Maryland Health Department Requirements Recommended by: Coastal Sunbelt Produce, Baltimore Hispanic Chamber of Commerce, Foodservice Monthly, MICROS, PFG, RAMW & SAVAL
FSM’S ADVERTISERS SUPPORT THE FOODSERVICE INDUSTRY OF THE MID-ATLANTIC WHEN THEY SHARE THEIR MESSAGE EACH MONTH. CALL LISA SILBER, SALES MANAGER, 301-591-9822 OR EMAIL LISA@FOODSERVICEMONTHLY.COM FOR THE BEST WAY TO REACH THE REGION’S BUYERS. ADVERTISER INDEX Acme Paper & Supply....................................... 8 Alto-Hartley...................................................... 6 Bilingual Hospitality Training Solutions............. 23 BME................................................................ 7 DePalo & Sons................................................ 4 ECOLAB......................................................... 14 H&M Wagner.................................................... 5 foodservicemonthly
H&S Bakery................................................... C2 Itek Construction + Consulting........................ 23 Kabobs......................................................... 13 Martin Bamberger.......................................... 18 Metropolitan Meat Seafood Poultry.................. C4 OCHMRA......................................................... 1 Performance Food Group................................ C3 The Newsmagazine Foodservice Professionals Rely On
Potomac Construction...................................... 9 Restaurant Assoc. of Maryland Education Foundation.................................................... 24 Restaurant Assoc. Metropolitan Washington.... 19 Squire Associates.......................................... 17 Tech 24 Construction .................................... 11 NOVEMBER 2016 | 23
MODERN BUSINESS SOLUTIONS Henry Pertman
Technology Takes the Forefront in Hospitality
I
am just coming off of an exciting experience at the CohnReznick Restaurant Technology Summit held at Prequel DC, a unique restaurant incubator space. Keynote speakers and panels included a who’s who of restaurant technology experts and restaurant owners experienced in deploying technology for the benefit of their businesses and guests. Attendees gained a better understanding of how they can use technology to make improvements for their restaurants, and they left excited. It was a great time and of great value. My experience at the Summit inspired me to share a few insights
on how technology can, and should, be working for your restaurant business every single day. Technology is not only a function of customer engagement and point of sale these days. There are almost countless ways that technology can help you improve or enhance your restaurant operations. Here, I will address those that I find to be the most effective.
Kitchen Technology Let’s start at the back of the house. If you do not know what a combination oven is, then you are probably spending too much on labor, wasting food, and suffering
from consistency issues. Each one of these problems is greatly improved with new kitchen technology.
IN THE FRONT OF THE HOUSE, TABLETS ARE REPLACING TRADITIONAL POS TERMINALS. THESE TABLETS PROVIDE FOR IMPROVED ENGAGEMENT WITH YOUR GUESTS AND QUICKER SERVICE. Combi ovens, as they are called, combine various heat sources in combination to not only help you put out an incredibly consistent product, but in less than half the time! Combining microwave, convection, radiant, and steam heat, these miracles of technology are computer ovens that will help you immeasurably. The sooner you test one out, the sooner you will find that its benefits make for both happier employees and guests, which ultimately means making more money. Another time proven technology that is not particularly new, but getting better all the time, is replacing printers with screens in your kitchen. The advantages are a mile long, but if you have not looked into them, again, I will tell you that you are spending too much in labor. This simple change can help bring food costs down and improve consistency, which in turn, increases guest satisfaction.
Point-of-Sale Technology In the front of the house, tablets are replacing traditional POS terminals. These tablets provide for improved engagement with your guests and quicker service. Pay at the table devices also provide a greater sense of security than when a server takes a guest’s credit card out of sight, which helps to reinforce messages of safety to your guests. Online ordering is also quickly 24 | NOVEMBER 2016
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becoming a must-have. It is the way millennials order their food, so if you do not provide the option, they are likely not buying from your restaurant. If you have a quick-serve restaurant, find out everything you can about kiosk ordering. Many guests prefer this style of ordering. If your restaurant is the right environment for this technology, kiosk ordering can help to significantly reduce your labor and food costs and increase your overall profits.
Business Intelligence Technology For those who report to the managers and owners of your restaurant, business intelligence and analytics are absolutely critical. If you are not already using cloudbased reporting for your business daily sales report, product mix, year-to-date comparisons, employee productivity, control of waste and theft, and everything else that is critically important to the success of any business, you are missing the boat. With today’s technology, these tools are inexpensive, comprehensive, intuitive, and available in real time, even on your phone. There is no technology more important for you to deploy. These are just a few of the ways that technology can help to enhance operations throughout your restaurant. If you are interested in learning more about how technology can change your restaurant business, please contact me at henry.pertman@cohnreznick. com or on Twitter @HenryPertman. I’m happy to help. Wishing you and your family a very Happy Thanksgiving! HENRY PERTMAN is Director, Hospitality Consulting at CohnReznick, located in the firm’s Baltimore, Md. office. 410-783-4900, henry.pertman@cohnreznick.com. foodservicemonthly
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