Best Of Dublin by Hot Press Publishing

THE HOT PRESS

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YOUR DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO THE CITY

THINGS YOU HAVE TO EAT DUBLIN’S BEST DISHES

DUBLIN AFTER DARK: THE HOTTEST SPOTS

RACHEL ALLEN’S DUBLIN PICNIC

3 4 1 9 9 1

SHANE MACGOWAN’S TOP 10 RESTAURANTS

7 8 0 9 5 5

WHAT CAN I DO WITH THE KIDS?

TOP OF THE SHOPS: FROM BARGAIN BASEMENTS TO DESIGNER STARS

ISBN 978-0-9553419-9-1

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• BARS • RESTAURANTS • FASHION • MUSIC • EVENTS • SPORT •MARKETS •

€3.95

•MY DUBLIN: KATHRYN THOMAS • PAUL HOWARD • ROSANNA DAVISON • ANGELA SCANLON•

�� Dublin’s premier Japanese restaurants Serving quality food and an exclusive range of Japanese sake and bottled beer

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12/13 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 01 645 8001 Yamamori Izakaya is a traditional Japanese style Izakaya bar and casual dining house. With a funky relaxed atmosphere and great food speciﬁcally designed for sharing (5 dishes for €25, 4 for €20, 3 for €15). Enjoy the old Asian beer ads and movie posters with a great Japanese beer or Sake (rice wine), and try our famous homemade Izakaya burger (€5.95). After your meal we have a slick bar downstairs where you can catch our large range of cocktails, a massive whiskey selection or a cold beer and enjoy some modern sounds from Dublin’s up and coming DJ’s.

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38/39 Lower Ormond Quay Dublin 1 01 872 0003

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Located in two stunning Georgian houses that boast original features which ﬁt well into our modern Japanese theme, the restaurant has four diﬀerent dining areas, including our newly decorated Bamboo garden which is fully covered and heated and is a perfect place to wind down after your meal or even dine outdoors.

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71/72 South Great George’s Street, Dublin 2 01 475 5001

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Yamamori is well known for its quality food and its exclusive range of premium Japanese sake and bottled beer. The atmosphere is trendy and vibrant and the service is always quick.

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www.yamamori.ie

CREDITS Publishing Manager: Paul Trainer Managing Editor: Máirín Sheehy Production: Maeve Heslin Commissioning Editor: Roisin Dwyer Writers: Stuart Clark, Craig Fitzpatrick, Monica Heck, Maeve Heslin, Celina Murphy, Maire Rowland, Anne Sexton,

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Contributors: Rachel Allen, Abie Philbin Bowman, Victoria Mary Clarke, Rosanna Davison, Brian Finnegan, Malachy Geelan, Jerath Head, Shay Healy, Paul Howard, Louise Johnston, Ross Lewis, Shane MacGowan, Caitriona McBride, Greg McAteer, Daniella Moyles, Vicki Notaro, Colm O'Hare, Angela Scanlon, Ruth Scott, Kathryn Thomas, Irvine Welsh Advertising Manager: Trish Murphy Marketing Manager: Mark Hogan Publishing Director: Duan Stokes Art Director: David Keane Design: Graham Keogh Publisher: Niall Stokes Photography: Marit Ehmtel, Ruth Medjber, Katie Stenson Cover photography: (Angela Scanlon with Johnnie Cupcake): Graham Keogh The Best Of Dublin is a Hot Press publication, published by Osnovina Ltd. Tel: (01) 241 1500 Fax: (01) 241 1538 Email: info@hotpress.ie Website: hotpress.com/bestofdublin All material © Hot Press 2012. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited. I.S.B.N.: 978-0-9553419-9-1 While every care has been taken to ensure accuracy throughout this magazine, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

Best of Dublin is a special publication from Hot Press magazine. For more information on entertainment in the capital and across the country pick up your copy of Hot Press every 14 days or visit us at hotpress.com.

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THE HOT PRESS BEST OF DUBLIN…

YOU LIVE HERE M

any have remarked that it is easy to spot visitors to any city. Tourists are the ones looking up, taking in everything around them, the natives all with heads down, shoe-gazing as they busily scuttle along the street to where they need to be. When you live in a place long enough it is easy to progressively tune out the background noise on familiar streets. We are busy people. Sometimes we don’t notice what is on our own doorstep. With that in mind, a team of writers was dispatched to spend a few months deep undercover on the streets of the capital. They have produced a snapshot of where we are right now. The Best of Dublin is a distillation of local knowledge packed with unique,

exciting, fun, entertaining or downright odd recommendations in a handbook for good times, messing and adventures. This magazine is essential reading for Dubliners and will point visitors in the right direction. As we traversed the high streets and the laneways picking up tips from experts and some great personalities it became clear that there is a lot to shout about. Within this magazine you’ll find enough suggestions to keep you busy from breakfast to bedtime and many reasons to love your city. Whether you like to hang out in boutiques, prowl nightclubs, meet bands, find bargains, exercise or eat in outstanding restaurants, you’ll find what you need within these pages. Take to the streets. Meet the Best of Dublin. Don’t forget to look up.

Angela Scanlon photographed on Trinity St in July 2012. Shot exclusively by Graham Keogh

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On The Cover: Angela Scanlon, fashion writer, stylist and presenter is introduced to one of Dublin’s best cupcakes from johnniecupcakes.ie. Read Angela’s top Dublin picks on page 101, visit her blog at angelascanlon.com

THE HOT PRESS

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MY DUBLIN 18... Ross Lewis 35... Louise Johnston 63... Rosanna Davison 67... Irvine Welsh 71... Abie Philbin Bowman 89... Ruth Scott 91... Shay Healy 101... Angela Scanlon 104... Daniella Moyles 114... Paul Howard

CONTENTS 6-7 YOUR CITY We hit the streets to ﬁnd out what makes you love Dublin 8-18 EVENT GUIDE Read all the essential dates for your Dublin diary 20-21 KATHRYN THOMAS RTE golden girl describes her perfect day in the city 22-27 MY KIND OF TOWN Hot Press editor Niall Stokes takes a long hard look at Dublin 28-31 DUBLIN FOR FREE Enjoy yourself without having to spend a cent 32-34 DUBLIN AFTER DARK The city’s nightlife exposed 38-44 DUBLIN ARCHITECTURE a look at the backdrop to urban life

COVER STORY 46-58 DUBLIN’S BEST DISHES The 50 Best Things to Eat Right Now 60-62 BREW SENSATIONS Anne Sexton discovers Dublin’s best beers 64-66 BEST BARS A selection of Dublin’s ﬁnest drinking emporiums 68-70 BEST VENUES Where to ﬁnd your new favourite bands 72-73 BEST WALKS Trails for the casual rambler to the seasoned hiker 74-75 SHANE MACGOWAN Our guest restaurant critic reveals his top ten Dublin restaurants

76-79 RACHEL ALLEN Dublin’s best picnic explained by Ireland’s leading TV chef

98-98 KIDS Some ideas to amuse bored kids and teens

80-83 FASHION Hit the shops and look amazing with our fashion forward guide to Dublin

102-104 GAY DUBLIN A guide to Dublin’s vibrant scene

86-88 HEALTHY DUBLIN A look at how to get active and ﬁt for urban life 90-91 MARKETS The coolest places to hang out and shop across the county 92-93 DUBLIN TOURS Our guide to tour guides 94-96 BOOKS Where to get all your literary highs 97 CAPEL STREET A visit to one of Dublin’s most interesting neighbourhoods

105 CULTURE Our list of Dublin’s leading attractions 106-109 SPORT Find out how to get involved with Dublin’s leading teams 110-112 BEST OF THE SUBURBS Travel beyond the city centre to see what the rest of Dublin has to offer 113 ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE Find some romance in Dublin today

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OLD TOWN

Dublin is a great bunch of places, a collection of contrasting areas and experiences. We asked people on the streets of Dublin to tell us the best way to enjoy our city. Photos Katie Stenson

“Nighthawks, an evening of music, comedy and performance at the Cobalt Café. It really is the best night out in Dublin – which is why all the shows sell out. If you haven’t seen a show at the Cobalt, you are missing something very special.” Stephen Kennedy “A sneaky pint in the afternoon, preferably in a bar off Grafton St., watching the world go by. Sitting or reading in Merrion Square – far better than St. Stephen’s Green.” Jo Willis “The people make the city; they’re so relaxed and chilled-out, they create a nice atmosphere. It’s also easy to get around, not many cars around the shopping areas.” Stephen Doyle “The Chester Beatty Library, the Hugh Lane Gallery, Leinster at the R.D.S., hurling championship games at Croke Park.” Ross Breen “Besides the food and the shopping, I

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OLD TOWN think you can find a lot of friendly people around, you can just ask if you’re lost.” Francis Luna

“3FE on Grand Canal St., can’t get coffee this good anywhere else on the planet!” Kieran Gleeson

“The best thing about Dublin is the nightlife. There’s something to do seven days a week.” Gemma Burke

“The Grand Canal lunchtime market on a Friday, St. Stephen’s Green on a sunny day and Tallaght Stadium for the Derby.” Conor O’Neill

“Absolute must-sees are the Science Gallery, the Natural History Museum, a gig at the Workman’s Club, or heading to the International Bar for a comedy gig.” Kathryn Laing

“Take the bus to Marlay Park. Take the start of Wicklow Way, go over the hills and have a stop at Johnnie Fox’s. Then take a cab, or walk to, the Blue Light Bar at Barnacullia. A nice stop before hitting back to town. This is a great trip to get both the Dublin and the Irish feeling! A must.” Steinar Dahlen

“Busking on Grafton St., to have a banter with the people more than to make money. Fishing off Dún Laoghaire pier on a summer’s evening. Going to a gig in Whelan’s or to the Zodiac Sessions, an open-mic night in Bruxelles underground bar on a Wednesday evening.” Michael Wall “The best thing about Dublin, especially for all you music lovers, is the street music, there’s loads of people playing!” Martin Stewart “I like to buy vinyl so I come to Dublin to buy records, I also like to have a bit of a dance in Sin É!” Hugh O’ Connell “I just love walking around Dublin, I always have, its one of my favourite pasttimes especially in the summer.” Joe Demspsey

“The vintage shops in Temple Bar” Jessie Barry, Swords “Iveagh Gardens in the sunshine: go around the maze! A cup of hot chocolate in Accents on Stephen’s St., the deer in Phoenix Park, frozen yogurt in George’s St. Arcade.” Hazel O “The Dublin people.” Stefan Frischknecht “Saba. Great food great cocktails great atmosphere great price.” Maria Barber “W.M. Kavanagh’s on Dorset St. – a gastropub that’s not up itself. Great food and an amazing wine, whiskey and cocktail

O LD TOWN

list.” Bernie Furlong “My favourite thing about Dublin is Cornucopia, I try to eat healthy as much as possible and I just love this place.” James Neslon “I love Neon for its Asian street food, Bite for its fishy bits, Pygmalion for its lovely location and cheap but delicious food then there is the entire Macken empire. They are always great craic to go to.” Kathryn Laing “The Pig’s Ear on Nassau St. provides the best value for money for excellent food.” Kieran Gleeson “Would have to say The Counter on Suffolk St. The chicken wings are to die for along with some sweet fries. Their burgers are freshly made, you can choose your own unique toppings, the taste of the burgers is just fabulous and it’s very affordable.” Tara O’Reilly

“George’s St. Arcade is one thing that all visitors, and indeed locals, should visit regularly when in Dublin’s fine city centre. Also a walk along Grafton St. on any day of the week will provide one with some free street entertainment and over the past 20 years has become an almost Irish Las Ramblas – but better.” Rob Smith

“Johnnie Fox’s for the fresh seafood, especially the mussels in white wine and garlic! Or Patrick Guilbaud: classic French, great atmosphere and fab wine.” Sorcha McIvor “Octopussy’s in Howth. Seafood tapas by the harbour in a cosy casual atmosphere.” Conor O’Neill “Bewley’s cafe on Grafton St. Smell the coffee and listen to all the buzz around!” Steinar Dahlen

“Kilmainham Gaol, St. Michan’s mummies, a Pogues Christmas concert.” Pat McGuckin “Crackbird: their chicken is damn tasty, the atmosphere is so hip that you can’t help but feel it rub off on you. And you gotta love that it was set up by a fella who had a few grand left on his credit card and decided to give it a whirl!” Hazel O “La Peniche – good food on a cruising barge.” Fiach Moriarty

“My favourite thing about Dublin is Grogans; it’s a great place to come back to if you’ve been away from the city for a while. You always find someone you know there. And the toasties are great! The trick is to get a ham and cheese and a cheese and tomato and put them on top

of each other with mustard in the middle!” Steve O’Connor “The Stag’s Head: fabulous in the sun and cosy in the rain. And Nealons on Capel St., great prices, great bar staff and usually one or two interesting characters…” Jo Willis “The Lep (Leopardstown Inn). Guaranteed to see someone you know and have a great catch up around the revolving bar.” Liadhan Collins “Finnegan’s in Dalkey: a local institution.” Lima O’Dea “J. Kennedy’s bar beside Tara St. Dart Station. The barman plays great music and the Guinness is top notch.” Bernie Furlong

“My favorite pub in Dublin is the Dawson Lounge, it’s the smallest bar in Dublin.” Derek Quilligan “Kehoe’s on South Anne St., never had a bad time there.” Elaine O’Shea

“My favourite thing about Dublin is the bars, especially places like Peter’s Pub or Grogans. They’re always full of the banter and the chat, great pints of Guinness and toasted sandwiches!” Lynn Hunter

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Lady Gaga plays in the Aviva Stadium in September

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EVENTS

THE BEST OF DUBLIN

THE MAIN EVENTS Dublin was recently christened the city of a thousand welcomes. We certainly like visitors and there is no shortage of international superstars, kings of comedy and cultural heavyweights stopping by in the months ahead to put on a show. Check out our crucial selection of the 20 entertainment, sporting, theatre and fashion events of 2012 that simply must be in your diary.

MARLAY PARK GIGS Kasabian, Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds (August 23), David Guetta, Example, Benni Benassi and more (24) and Van Morrison, Tom Jones and Bobby Womack (25) Rathfarnham’s favourite dog-walking spot has already welcomed Sting, R.E.M. and Muse to its temporary stage, which returns for three days this August. Musically, this year’s Marlay Park line-up couldn’t be more diverse; a night of quintessential British indie rock kicks off on the Thursday, when bosom buddies Kasabian and Noel Gallagher will be urging the crowd onto their feet; Friday sees electronic dance music overlord David Guetta make a hugely-anticipated return to the Park (he was small-to-medium potatoes when he opened for Fatboy Slim here three years ago, but he’s barely left the charts since) and Saturday brings three behemoths of soul to the Dublin stage as Van Morrison, Tom Jones and Bobby Womack perform in a three-living-legends-for-the-price-ofone special. With a brand new album of dynamite gospel and R&B covers to draw from, we’re expecting aging pussycat Tom Jones to be the surprise hit of the weekend.

THE DUBLIN THEATRE FESTIVAL Various venues, September 27 – October 14 A highlight of the Irish social calendar since 1957, the Dublin Theatre Festival is the oldest of its kind in Europe and, judging by the jam-packed line-ups we’ve seen in recent years, one of the busiest

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Tom Jones plays Marley Park in August

in the world. In 2011 alone, the festival presented 553 performances in 25 venues, as well as masterclasses from the world’s top practitioners, artist development programmes, film screenings, symposiums, schools workshops and panel discussions. Organisers aren’t exactly planning to slow down in 2012, when over three weeks, an estimated 50,000 tickets will pass through the hands of Irish culture-hounds in celebration of the festival’s 55th year. The jewel in the 2012 programme’s crown is currently making its way home from a critically-lauded run in Broadway; Garry Hynes and Tom Murphy’s collaboration DruidMurphy, a collection of three plays, comes to the Dublin Theatre Festival from October 2 to 13.

THE DUBLIN HORSE SHOW The R.D.S., August 15 – 19 Dublin’s week-long equestrian extravaganza kicks off on August 15 this year, when tens of thousands of punters will flock to the Royal Dublin Society for their yearly dose of fetlock-inspired fun. From decked-out fashionistas hoping to catch the judges’ eyes on Ladies Day to pony-crazy tikes taking to the saddle for the first time, the Dublin Horse Show attracts visitors of all shapes and

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sizes, some of whom will be keeping the competition schedule close to their chests, and some who will be happy to take a trip around the trade stands, catch a gig (barbershop quartet 4 In A Bar come highly recommended!) and just soak up the atmosphere. As well as being one of the major competitions in international showjumping, the event’s flagship event, the Meydan Nation’s Cup, is a firm favourite with spectators, as eight nations come together to compete for the Aga Khan trophy.

history as an excuse for a good boating competition, the festival is centered around the colourful crew parade and prizegiving ceremony on August 24, but also incorporates music, street theatre, markets, funfairs and water sports. An open-air trapeze and circus sideshow will thrill the masses in Grand Canal Square, Ash and The Undertones are due to take to the Bulmers Music Stage, and street culture legends the Kings of Concrete will take over Hanover Quay with some breathtaking stunts, displays and demonstrations – and that’s all before you’ve even hit the water! Those hoping to get their hands and feet wet can test out their wakeboarding, paddle boarding and kayaking skills, or for an aquatic fling with none of the splashback, check out the festival’s floating cinema.

Tom Jones

plays with legends Van Morrison and Bobby Womack in Marlay Park on August 25 this year

DUBLIN TALL SHIPS RACES The Docklands, August 23 – 26 Up to 50 magnificent examples of nautical craftsmanship will sail into Dublin this summer for the free four-day spectacular that is the Dublin Tall Ships festival. As much a celebration of Dublin’s maritime

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The Tall Ships & (below) Aloe Black performing at last years Arthur’s Day celebations

GUINNESS ARTHUR’S DAY Various venues, September 27 Easily Ireland’s favourite event inspired by an alcoholic beverage, Arthur’s Day reaches far beyond the Pale, hitting Kuala Lumpur, Lagos, New York, Jakarta and more since its inception in 2009. For anyone wondering, Arthur’s Day celebrates the anniversary of the signing of the lease of the world-famous Guinness brewery at St. James Gate, and marks the occasion with dozens of live music events around the globe. Of course, it all started in Dublin, the home of Arthur Guinness, and the city will see a mouth-watering selection of international and Irish talent join in even more fun and frolics this year. The intimate pub shows are always a hit with Dubliners, who’ve been thrilled in recent years to see Tom Jones, Paolo Nutini and Kasabian turn up at their local pub for a few tunes. The line-up for 2012 will be announced in August, so keep an eye on guinness.com for news on the bill.

LADY GAGA The Born This Way Ball, Aviva Stadium, September 15 Anyone who caught the phenomenal Monster Ball show will already know this; with the Lady Gaga live show, you get perfection, or as close to perfection as

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EV E N TS €54.65 will buy. When Ms. Germanotta last took to the Irish stage in 2010, she sang, danced and fled the tentacles of a giant angler fish with unparalleled skill. The sets, the choreography and the lighting were flawless. The costumes were pure dynamite. The only thing that needed work was Gaga’s Irish accent, but she’ll get to take another crack at it on September 15 when she brings her Born This Way Ball to Aviva Stadium. Comprising five acts and set amid a three-story medieval castle, Gaga’s latest tour is every bit as magnificently freaky as the last, incorporating a mechanical horse, a human motorcycle, a meat couch, a shotgun bra and a somewhat graphic childbirthing scene.

CHERYL The O2, October 4 Although Girls Aloud honey Cheryl Cole is no stranger to the limelight, 2012 marks her first solo headline arena tour, which promises to take in songs from her three records 3 Words, Messy Little Raindrops and A Million Lights. This means that it will be the first time hits like ‘Fight For This Love’, ‘Promise This’ and ‘Parachute’ will be performed live in Ireland, after a handful of distractions, ranging from a career-boosting stint on The X-Factor, to an almost deadly brush with malaria stopped Cheryl from touring. Fresh from a mammoth number one with the Calvin Harris-produced ‘Call My Name’, the Geordie sensation is currently

John Bishop

headlines his biggest ever Irish shows when he comes to these shores for three gigs in The O2 in November.

John Bishop & (below) Jennifer Lopez

busy masterminding her party-starting extravaganza, even asking her fans to help her compile the setlist via Twitter. Expect thrills, spills, swan dives (if her recent performance on The Voice is anything to go by) and a very public tongue-lashing in the form of new track ‘Screw You’.

JENNIFER LOPEZ The O2, October 19 It’s hard to believe that Jennifer Lopez aka J. Lo aka Jenny From The Block aka the almighty Queen of shapely bottoms has sold records across three decades and still hasn’t found the time to pay her Irish fans a visit. But that’s all about to change in 2012 when the renaissance woman makes her Irish debut as part of her Dance Again world tour. The all-singing, all-dancing, all-acting Bronx native has a hit-packed show lined up for her October date; spanning her 13-year recording career, the Dance Again setlist includes turnof-the-century club stomper ‘Waiting For

Tonight’, noughties superhits like ‘Love Don’t Cost A Thing’ and ‘Jenny From The Block’, and her recent return to floor-filling anthemia, ‘On The Floor’. Going from full-on showgirl mode to performing from the middle of a boxing ring, Jenny will be doing her darndest to prove that she’s still got it, so expect a little bit of drama and a lot of writhing around on October 19.

JOHN BISHOP Vicar St. (September 9 – 11) and the O2 (November 7, 9 and 10) Following the phenomenal response to the super-human Sport Relief challenge he completed in March, which raised a staggering total of £4 million for the charity, the demand for funny man John Bishop has never been greater, which explains why the Liverpudlian rogue is playing a whopping six shows in the capital this autumn. Tackling everything from the shape of Brian Cowen’s head to the monstrous size of fridges, Bishop has won us all over with his blokeish schtick and his

E VENTS

Dax

“Raises the Ceiling on Dublin Dining” TOM DOORLEY THE IRISH TIMES

Restaurant

Ideally located in the heart of Dublin, just a 5 minute walk from St Stephens Green, The award-winning Dax restaurant is now one of Ireland’s Premier food destinations Lunch Menu is served Tuesday to Friday 12.30 – 2.15pm €24.50 – 2 Courses €29.50 – 3 Courses Pre Theatre Menu is served from 5.30pm with last orders at 7.00pm Tuesday – Friday €25.50 – 2 Courses Our New A la Carte Menu is served from 5.30pm Tuesday to Saturday offering a variety of dishes to suit every taste.

The Bank on College Green was delighted to be awarded Hospitality Ireland Bar of the Year in 2009, 2010 and most recently in 2011. The Bank takes great measures to ensure that your experience with us will meet your unique needs and exceed your expectations. Since we opened our doors in April 2003 we have continually strived to provide our patronage with a consummate range of quality products and service that surpass today’s call for quality, value and comfort yet still complement the remarkable example of Victorian architectural splendour that is our premises. This building, which was designed by one of the British Empire’s leading architectural lights William Henry Lynn - was once described as ‘one of the foremost jewels of Victorian Dublin!’ The Bank on College Green is an excellent choice for all manner of functions and engagements. We serve a range of quality fare all day including breakfast, lunch, dinner and bar food. We also cater for large parties with an extensive choice of set menu, ﬁnger food and buffet options.

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THE BANK ON COLLEGE GREEN, 20 College Green, Dublin 2 www.bankoncollegegreen.com Phone: +353 1 677 0677 info@bankoncollegegreen.com

Dax Restaurant 23 Pembroke Street Upper, Dublin 2 Tel : 01 676 1494 Email: Olivier@dax.ie Web: www.dax.ie

EVE N TS 1914. The book’s epiphanic climax The Dead will be performed on stage for the first time in December in the Abbey Theatre, with a script adapted by celebrated playwright Frank McGuinness. Featuring a stellar cast of Stanley Townsend and Derbhle Crotty in lead roles, alongside the familiar faces of Lorcan Cranitch, Ingrid Craigie, Rosaleen Linehan, Alison McKenna, Derry Power and Anita Reeves, The Dead is directed by the Abbey’s former artistic director, Joe Dowling. After a premiere on December 5, this remix of a century-old masterpiece continues right through to the new year.

MOUNTAINS TO SEA BOOK FESTIVAL Dún Laoghaire Rathdown, September 4 – 9 A multi-faceted celebration of all things small and binded, Dún Laoghaire Rathdown festival Mountains To Sea has announced its star-studded line-up for 2012. Manchester literary giant Howard Jacobson, who won the Man Booker Prize in 2010 for his hopelessly funny work of fiction, The Finkler Question, kicks off this year’s festival on September 4. Other guests include Philippa Gregory, Gerbrand Bakker, Jonathan Dee, John Banville, Esther Freud, Daniel Woodrell, David Mitchell, Katie Fforde and Pulitzer prize winner Elizabeth Strout. Also, for the first time in its 17-year history, Ireland’s biggest and best-loved festival of poetry, Poetry Now, will be incorporated into Mountains To Sea, including the Irish Times Poetry Now Prize, which has been snapped up on previous occasions by Harry Clifton, Seamus Heaney, Sinéad Morrissey, Derek Mahon and Dorothy Molloy.

Michael McIntyre’s

Michael McIntyre

bemused tales of how, now that he’s a jetsetting, award-winning telly man, he feels like he’s “nicked somebody else’s life”. For the full John Bishop experience, check out his Rollercoaster Arena Tour when it stops by the O2 in November or, if you’d rather a more intimate setting – or indeed, if you just can’t wait that long! – catch his preview shows in 1050-capacity comedy paragon, Vicar St.

MICHAEL MCINTYRE The O2, November 16 – 19 Star of Michael McIntyre’s Comedy Roadshow, Britain’s Got Talent and the winner of two British Comedy Awards, Michael McIntyre returns to the road in November for his third and biggest stand-up tour to date. Thanks to spot-on observational comedy and a trademark ability to turn everyday situations into master-classes of human exasperation, the dapper Londoner has incorporated everything from kilts to wrinkle cream into his side-splitting routines. But perhaps our favourite thing

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trademark ability to turn everyday situations into masterclasses of human exasperation can be witnessed by comedy fans in Dublin this November

about McIntyre is that, at a gig in Cork in June, whilst attempting to mimic England goalkeeper Joe Hart’s failed attempt to keep a penalty kick from hitting the back of the net during a Euro 2012 match, he became so engrossed in his actions that he ended up having to do the rest of the show on crutches. With dedication like that, it’s little wonder that he’s one of the UK’s most treasured comedy performers.

THE DEAD The Abbey Theatre, opens December 5 When it came time to choose a piece of literary work to represent our home town for the One City, One Book initiative earlier this year, there couldn’t have been a more perfectly obvious – or obviously perfect – choice than Dubliners, James Joyce’s collection of short stories from

THE NUTCRACKER & SWAN LAKE Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, December 5, 6 and 9 and December 7 and 8 Some of Tchaikovsky’s greatest compositions are put to work this December in two world-class ballet performances at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre. One of the most prestigious ballet companies on the planet, the Tchaikovsky Perm State Ballet brings its spectacular productions to Ireland just in time for the

EV ENTS festive season. Swan Lake (December 7 and 8) follows Prince Siegfried as he meets and falls in love with Odette, a beautiful Princess who has come under the spell of an evil sorcerer that has transformed her into a swan, while Christmas favourite The Nutcracker (December 5, 6 and 9) plunges the spectator into a fantastical dream world (thanks to the preferred toy of an imaginative seven-yearold) where playthings become larger than life. Through expressive choreography and enchanting costumes, these two unmissable performances are guaranteed to get anyone in the festive mood.

Michael McIntyre

GAA ALL IRELAND HURLING AND FOOTBALL FINALS Croke Park, September 9 & 23 With Kilkenny dethroned as Leinster Champions by surprise package Galway, and Cork, Limerick and Waterford all looking dangerous, the hurling championship is shaping up to be one of the most competitive of recent years, though you really canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t look beyond the Cats or Tipperary as champions. In football, champs Dublin are going strong while Cork have breezed through Munster and a superorganised Donegal have steamrolled the opposition in Ulster. From the qualifiers, Kildare and Kerry will have a say before the season is out. James Joyce

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EVE N TS RUTH MEDJBER

my DUBLIN Aslan

ROSS LEWIS CHEF What do you like best about Dublin? What I love about Dublin is its pulsating energy which is a transfusion of its people’s sense of humour, congeniality and their pride in their city. The spoken word and live entertainment, its theatres and its theatre of the streets. The recent cosmopolitan nature of the city which has given it an eclectic mix that is interesting and exciting and finally, a great road out for when you want a break! Best outdoors place? Sitting on Seapoint swimming station looking out over Dublin bay and towards Howth. Best restaurant? I’d be shot if I named only one, like my children I like them all equally! Best pub? Kehoes of South Anne St. or Finnegans in Dalkey. I think Dalkey has a lovely village atmosphere which is reflected in the partly old and partly new world atmosphere in Finnegans. It’s the hallmark of what every pub should be, a place that makes you feel comfortable and at home, friendly and congenial service to boot oh, and a great pint of plain served by the man himself ! Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? Farmers Market, Dún Laoghaire on a Sunday morning where you can pick up a variety of vegetables from Denis Healy and McNally 016

Farm, amazing beef, great butter and eggs from John Murphy from Ticknock Farm. There is Coolanowle organic cured bacon and delicious artisan bread from Bun in the Oven Bakery... what else would you want for your fry up?! Where do you shop for clothes? Probably the wrong question for me as like most males I shop very sporadically, but I would admit to visiting Louis Copeland from time to time, he provides an amazing, personalised service. The rest is done in a variety of places… everything from Marks & Spencer to buying the odd pair of shoes and quality shirts when I’m away. Favourite Dublin building? The Gate Theatre, an iconic and cultural building now home to its well-known and loved theatre run by the mercurial Michael Colgan for the last 30 years, need I say more? Your Dublin music? I have a soft spot for Aslan. They have such talent and have worked hard for as long as I can remember being in Dublin which is over 20 years. They embody the spirit of Dublin which is so special, however it’s very hard to disassociate the tunes of Bagatelle from my earliest memories of Dublin whilst growing up in Cork. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? Glasthule village, intimate, charming and really vibrant. Full of wonderful epicurean stores such as Cavistons run by the characterful Peter Caviston which is a treasure trove of quality foods. Also, the 64 Wine Bar, which houses my favourite coffee shop. Your Dublin hero? Sister Stan – she is the chair of the Immigrant Council and has other posts on differing organisations. She represents a lifetime of the true spirit of thinking of others before ever thinking of yourself. When you’re with friends in Dublin, what do you like to do? It is usually Sunday or Monday for me – the caterers weekend! Walk through to the market at Dún Laoghaire and buy breakfast to cook back home followed by a swim at Seapoint. If we were looking for something further afield we would take them around Dublin bay on the Dart to Howth and have lunch at The Kind Sitric, some crab and black sole washed down with a good drop of white, a perfect Sunday! chapteronerestaurant.com

Irish rugby star Jamie Heaslip

IRELAND VS SOUTH AFRICA Aviva Stadium, November 10 Picking themselves off the floor after a bruising end of season tour of New Zealand, Ireland will go toe-to-toe against the Springboks. One of the hardest hitting sides in world rugby, expect South Africa to make their presence felt regardless of the outcome.

IRELAND Vs GERMANY Aviva Stadium, October 12 Hopes of a surprise victory at Euro 2012 were dashed as Ireland were taken apart by Croatia, Spain and Italy. Can the side rally for the World Cup? We’ll have a clearer picture of how the qualifiers are likely to shape up as Trap’s charges face off against group favourites Germany.

BRAM STOKER FESTIVAL Various venues, October 27 and 28 In his twisted 1897 novel Dracula, Dubliner Bram Stoker created the most celebrated character by any Irish writer, a tempestuous aging vampire who became the blueprint for the countless incarnations which can currently be found of the big and small screens. 2012 marks not only the centenary of Stoker’s death, but the inaugural year of Dublin’s Bram Stoker Festival, as local creative types come together to remember the Irish king of gothic fiction. Full details of the festival programme have yet to be announced, but expect literary delights, film and street animation celebrating all things pointy-eared and sharp-toothed. Meanwhile, Bram Stoker’s Lost Dublin Journal, a book featuring the contents of

EV ENTS an unmarked diary that lay unnoticed for year on Stoker’s great-grandson’s bookshelf, full of notes that would inform his legendary novel and other stories, has been published for the first time, yielding a crucial insight into the man behind the story.

discounts, pampering treats, beauty tips and tricks. With a bit of luck, they’ll leave the festival brimming with ideas on how to stock their wardrobes for Autumn/Winter 2012. Keep your eyes peeled for the full programme of events, due to appear at dff.ie very soon.

DUBLIN FASHION FESTIVAL Various venues, September 6 – 9

LEONARD COHEN The Royal Hospital Kilmainham, September 11, 12 & 14

Dublin is not usually regarded as the fashion capital of Europe, but for one weekend in September, all stylish eyes fall upon our fair city, as hundreds of shops, bars, restaurants and hotels play host to a fabulous programme of apparel-inspired events. Between fashion shows, styling workshops, interviews with industry experts and the fiercelycontested City Model Search, last year’s event was a resounding success, and organisers are all set to kick things into high gear for 2012. Across four days, fashion-conscious Dubliners will be invited to enjoy exclusive style events, special offers and

His last visit to Kilmainham reduced him to tears, so it’s no surprise that the bard of Montreal is keen to repeat that glorious show from 2008. “The reception was so warm,” he said at the time, “that tears came to my eyes and I thought, ‘I can’t be seen weeping at this point’. Then I turned around and saw the guitar player weeping! … I have never been so moved by a performance, everything about the night was magical.” Cohen will find it tough to reproduce a show as special as that, but if it’s going to happen anywhere, it’ll be in the Royal Hospital

Leonard Cohen

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EVE N TS COLM HENRY

The Philip Lynott Exhibition

is not only the motherlode for Philo fans, it’s a mustsee for anyone who loves a good rock ‘n’ roll yarn

Philip Lynott

with tunes like ‘Bird On The Wire’ and ‘Suzanne’ floating around in the ether. Of course, there’s also a whole other album of material to chose from this time around, thanks to Cohen’s critically fawned-over new L.P. Old Ideas, which is guaranteed to top a few ‘Album of the Year’ lists come December.

STILL IN LOVE WITH YOU: THE PHILIP LYNOTT EXHIBITION Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, Until September 30

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As the impossibly cool lead singer of legendary rock outfit Thin Lizzy, Philip Lynott wrote music that changed the world. Now, following a highly successful run at the O2 Arena, London, Still In Love With You: The Philip Lynott Exhibition has made a very welcome return to Stephen’s Green Shopping Centre, where it previously ran for a staggering eight months. Presented by Hot Press in association with Radio Nova and the Irish Daily Star, the highly-acclaimed exhibition, which brought visitors to Dublin from Russia, Germany, France,

Spain, Italy, Sweden, Norway, Denmark, Serbia, Japan, Brazil, Argentina, the USA, Canada and many more countries across the globe, returns along with a brand new programme of events. A comprehensive collection of memorabilia, taking in everything from tour costumes to album artwork to hastily-scribbled excerpts from the Thin Lizzy account books, Still In Love With You is not only the motherlode for Philo fans, it’s a must-see for anyone who loves a good rock ‘n’ roll yarn. See philiplynottexhibition.com.

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29/06/2012 08:47

PARK LIFE My Perfect Dublin Day

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M Y PE R F E C T DAY

Living close to Phoenix Park means a perfect day in the life of Kathryn Thomas, presenter of the hugely successful series The Voice Of Ireland, involves plenty of time spent outdoors and visits to her favourite city centre streets.

have lived in Dublin 8 for the past five years. There are two main reasons why I chose to stay in this area: its proximity to both the Phoenix Park and the Irish National War Memorial Gardens in Islandbridge. I have two little dogs so the park is perfect for taking them for a walk or to do a bit of training myself. If I’m having an energetic start to the day, I’d run through the War Memorial Gardens, along the river and up into the Phoenix Park, around and back again. It’s brilliant to have those facilities nearby. It’s a very historic part of Dublin as well - Kilmainham Gaol is in the same area and it’s got a fascinating story. If I want to arrange to meet friends, we’d rendezvous in IMMA: the museum has a gorgeous café, so it’s a nice place to go for lunch. They frequently have really good photography exhibitions there, so that would be the next port of call. Heading towards town, Francis St. is one of my favourite city streets. I love to drop by Gallery Zozimus – the two guys who run it are great fun. They sell paintings, of course, but they put a very strong focus on Irish sculpture as well. It’s always nice to walk past and see what’s in the window and if I have a bit of time, to call in. From there I’d make my way towards town for a bit of shopping. On the high street, my first ports of call are generally River Island and A-Wear. They both have a great range to browse through. I also love the George’s St. Arcade. Retro, a vintage clothes store, is a great little shop and I also really like Jenny Vander, which is just across the road from the entrance to the Arcade, on Drury St. The Arcade is somewhere you could spend hours, so when you get hungry, I’d recommend Lolly and Cooks’ ‘Savage Roll’, which is kind of like an oversized handmade sausage roll. After a day walking around town and shopping, it’s one of my favorite things to eat; people who know about them

come from miles to have one. I was in school with the two sisters who run Lolly & Cooks, Churpy and Laragh Strahan and so it’s always nice to see one of them behind the counter. They’ve expanded now and also have a little place just off Baggot St. If I’m making my way out to RTÉ, I like to stop by the Canal Bank Café near the Leeson St. Bridge for a bite to eat. In town, I’d recommend a visit to Bear, on South William Street. I love it. And if I was going to splash the cash I’d choose Pichet, on Trinity Street – it’s absolutely gorgeous. I’ve also had a couple of great meals at Bite on South Frederick Street; they’ve done a great job turning the place around with their unusual combination of fish and cocktails. I like to keep an eye on what’s showing at the IFI, but I’m really more of a fan of the theatre than the cinema and my favourite theatres are The Gate and The Abbey Theatre. My favourite pub in Dublin is Bruxelles. I’d generally be found upstairs but it depends: if we’re playing pool or if there is a great band on, I’ll go downstairs. I’d also visit Keogh’s and recently had a great night out at 37 Dawson St – they’ve done an amazing job renovating it and the interior is very cool now. I don’t go out clubbing as much as I used to. Generally I’d just stay late in Bruxelles. Sometimes, though, we’d head up to Copper Face Jacks or to Krystle, which is always good fun. It’s a good day for me if I can get down to the gym. I visit BodyByrne Fitness twice a week where I train with Siobhan Byrne. We’re currently working towards the Ironman race, which is taking place in Galway in September. Finally, I always look forward to getting my hair done because you always feel fresh and new after it. Paul Hession of Hession Hairdressing in Drumcondra does my hair – the salon is gorgeous and it’s really the one time you can’t run around. You just have time to chill out, which is lovely.

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DUBLIN: IT’S OUR KIND OF TOWN! 022

D UBLIN

It’s one of Europe’s most dynamic capitals, with a fantastic nightlife, rich culture, world class bars and restaurants and endless things to see and do. Let’s celebrate Dublin’s diversity, its energy and its determination to have a good time, no matter what. By Niall Stoles

s natives, we take so much for granted about this place they originally named Black Pool or Dubh Linn. Next time you step out the front door, look around you! Have you ever focussed on the mountains off in the distance properly and the shape and colour they bring to the skyline? When you get off the bus, the Luas or the Dart in town, check out the streetscape and the nearest buildings. Imagine that you are a visitor who has arrived in Dublin for the first time: look at what’s around you through the fresh eyes you bring to faraway places. You’ve seen the River Liffey, so important to the early settlements here, and the subsequent growth and development of the city, a thousand times and heard it referred to in story and song from James Joyce to Pete St. John. But have you ever looked closely at the way the sun rises over the bay in the morning and lights up the river as it flows out and away from the city along the final stretch of quays and through the Docklands, where it links up with those other vital veins of Dublin life, the Dodder and the Tolka? If you are alive to it, everywhere you turn there are new wonders to observe. The legend of the Sick and Indigent Society inscribed on the building on Palace Street, off Dame St.; the towering figure of Big Jim Larkin, arms outstretched, in the centre of O’Connell St.; the magnificent breadth of Gardiner St., many of its fine buildings from the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries still wonderfully intact, as it sweeps from the heights of Mountjoy Square down to Talbot St.; the bold white curve of the

plume of the recently built Beckett Bridge, like the sail on a giant yacht, framing the bay; the miniaturist retro humour of the ‘Why Go Bald’ sign, still winking at you from the side of the building at the George’s St. end of Dame Lane; the small oasis of the sunken Peace Garden, at the junction of Nicholas St. and Christchurch Place. These are just the first few examples that spring to mind. All over the streets of the city there are jewels, large and small, for us to enjoy that in the normal course of things we pass by, too often without as much as batting an eyelid. To an extent it’s understandable. We become blind to the pleasures that our own place harbours. We are so caught up in the hustle of getting by and of making a living, or trying to, that we close our eyes and our ears to what is around us. Well, it’s time to waken up! This, after all, is the city that gave the world the legend of Dracula. There is mischief afoot. Joining in is far more fun than going home to sleep... The truth is that in so many ways, Dublin is a brilliant city in which to live – and to visit. Whether you’re coming here from Brazil, Australia or the rugged kingdom of Kerry, it is important to have a guide to what really matters in the city, to enable you to make the most of your time here. And all the moreso, if you are living in Dublin, then it is a wonderful bonus to have revealed afresh to us how and where and when we can find those special things – the sights, tastes, sounds and happenings which have the potential to transform the experience of being a full-time resident of Dublin into an inspiring, fulfilling, ongoing adventure. Well, let The Best of Dublin be that guide.

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The Riptide Movement busking on Grafton St.

hat is it that gives Dublin its unique character? There is its size for a start. It is a big city but it is small compared to the major cities of the world. It has an identifiable centre, towards which everyone can gravitate if they want to be part of the action. There is something of the flavour of a big village about it. You know if you want to hook up with friends, all you have to do is gravitate to one of the familiar haunts in town and you’ll find someone you know who almost certainly will know where someone else is. Irish people did social networking long before the internet and smart phones got in on the act. You get the odd oul’ curmudgeon who will shout at you in the streets or shoot you a suspicious glare, but in general people are friendly. Stand in a queue and conversation comes easy. We are always within striking distance of a wave and a smile. It’s become the stuff of tourism brochure puff pieces, but there really is a buzz of energy and creativity about the place. You see more people here, like strange mutant gastropods, wandering the streets with guitars in gig bags on their backs, than in any other place in the world. Dublin may once have been a city full of ghosts for Mike Scott of The Waterboys, but for the visitor it is a city full of music, story and song. The population is young – and

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getting younger. The 2011 census revealed that Ireland has the youngest population in Europe. In addition, there are hordes of undergraduates across the city’s myriad universities and colleges, including a greater number than ever before of foreign students studying the English language here, or taking courses in Irish universities. Compared to 20 years ago, the capital city is a melting pot of different nationalities, with people from every part of Europe landing in Dublin airport daily, in addition to tens of thousands from the U.S.A., South America (especially Brazil and Argentina), Nigeria, North Africa, the Middle East, China and Australia. Step outside the Hot Press offices in Trinity St. and immediately you’re in the thick of it, Spanish schoolkids, senior German citizens and young Japanese couples alike zig-zagging through the streets maps in hand, looking up at the buildings, wielding cameras and exclaiming. Behind the counters in shops or waiting in restaurants you’re almost as likely now to be greeted by a French, an English, a Scottish, a Polish or an Italian accent as by an Irish one. At bus-stops in the suburbs, young black children are prominent in the queues. There is a strong North African and Middle-Eastern community here too of Libyans, Algerians, Moroccans and Lebanese. A huge proportion of the nurses that work in Irish hospitals are from the Philippines. The old mono-cultural Ireland

is long dead and gone, thankfully. I have nothing against the Irish, he joked, but the diversity and excitement of the new multicultural Dublin is a constant source of pleasure and surprise. It is reflected in the profusion of new cafes, restaurants and shops. There are well established Italian, Chinese and Jewish communities in Dublin, but the recent influx of migrants has seen shops and restaurants catering to the Polish, Lithuamian and Latvian Irish spring up randomly across the city. Similarly, the range of restaurants serving what in the old days would have been labelled ‘far’ eastern cuisine has increased dramatically. There are now Vietnamese and Korean cafés in which you can get genuinely good, authentic dishes. Even more tellingly, perhaps, the range and style and variety of what we call Chinese and Indian restaurants has expanded greatly, with the vast scale and geographical spread of those massive countries – in India’s case ‘sphere of influence’ might be a more appropriate term because a lot of those working in Irish curry houses are from Bangladesh – being far better reflected than at the turn of the century. There has been an upsurge too in the number of places selling authentic Mexican food, which has been matched by the arrival in Ireland of the first restaurants influenced by the presence here of our new

D UBLIN friends from the powerhouses of South America, Brazil and Argentina, as well as ‘down under’ in Australia, and ‘across’ in the Labanon and Morocco. But, of course, in a city it is the people that matter most. Over the past 40 years, Ireland has become an outward looking society. Irish people got the travel bug, taking themselves to the furthest reaches of the world and coming back almost inevitably with a different slant on things, culturally, philosophically and gastronomically. In general, the adjustments have been subtle and incremental. But over a period of years they accumulate in weight and profundity: what had once been a closed and beady-eyed culture has changed into one that is far more open and willing to embrace difference. It would be wrong to imply that Ireland has got everything right in relation to immigration. Far from it. But that doesn’t negate the fact that Dublin is a colorful playground now, accommodating people from a fantastic diversity of ethnic, cultural, religious and national backgrounds. And yet the city still vibrates with an Irish heartbeat. It retains the garrulousness and the love of a good time that differentiate it from some of the more obviously industrialised and mechanistic cities of the UK and Europe. It is a great place to go out and party in. Our history might be doleful at times and there is occasionally a propensity to wallow in its miseries, but nothing could ever kill the native Irish’s taste for eating and drinking and being merry and that propensity has risen to the surface again in recent times, frequently in spite of the best efforts of the authorities, who more often than not seem to be far too enthusiastic to get us home to bed. At its best, all of this achieves its pinnacle in the centre of the city and there are times when it truly does. But not as well as it might. In many ways, public policy has not been good for the center of Dublin in recent years. The Luas has been a marvelous boon, but its two train routes serve only a small proportion of the city and elsewhere the public transport network is weak. However you view the principle, the attempt to keep cars out of the city has been badly judged. The effect has been to discourage vast numbers of people from going ‘into town’ the way they used to as a matter of routine. Children in particular have been alienated from what is a birthright – the freedom to wander the streets of the capital city and feel part of it all. Well, we have to change that. There is a need for a shift in thinking at official level to encourage this, but there is no way that Dubliners can afford to hang around waiting for that Damascene conversion. Suburbs are fine. But there is nothing to

Inside Dublin’s City Hall

match the sense of occasion that you get in the heart of a bustling, thriving city like Dublin. To ensure that it stays that way, we should go about reclaiming the city as a place to live and eat and shop and meet and drink and party. So when are you heading in? Playing football for Hot Press Munchengladbach 1891, you get to see parts of the wider city that might never otherwise cross the radar of someone who spends most of the time in the centre of town, as we here in Hot Press do. It’s no secret that Dublin is a complicated city with a history of bad planning and builders who were often allowed to get away with dereliction on a grand scale. In the wilds of the north Dublin suburbs of Finglas and Ballymun, out west in Blanchardstown and Lucan or, further to the south, in Clondalkin and Tallaght, where many of the football teams are based, there are areas of huge deprivation. In these and similar suburbs, where playing fields are often gouged out of pieces of wasteland, and – in general – the councils have failed desperately to provide even basic facilities like dressing rooms, there are pockets of toughness and disaffection. Drugs play a part in it and inevitably, as a result, there is crime – which follows the criminalisation of drugs just as surely as night follows day. But there are good things happening in all of these communities too, with sport being one of the great platforms for a new kind of solidarity. In the various leagues,

most teams line-out now with players from multiple national backgrounds. The pace of change can sometimes seem slow. The clichéd prejudices of the football T.V. commentators in the U.K. are often reflected on the pitches in the treatment of players from Brazil or the Middle East. But change is happening. There is a softening of hard-boiled attitudes. The new Irish are being welcomed. Similarly, immigrants are embracing gaelic culture. Englishmen and Nigerians alike take their kids to play hurling on a Saturday afternoon. An exchange is taking place, from which we are all benefitting, and which is leading us forward collectively to a broader sense of inclusiveness, tolerance and understanding. That might sound naïve and idealistic, but I really don’t think that it is. Young Irish people have grown up in a multicultural environment. The old suspicions mean nothing to them. They are receptive and curious, or the majority of them are at least. In so many respects, the pillars on which Irish society rested have crumbled over the past 30 years and as a result today’s children are beginning from a different place, one that is for the most part without the inner malice of the deep seated, narrow dogmas that had defined us for so long. In Dublin, there is a far greater broadmindedness now than ever before in relation to sexuality. Remnants of the old religious conservatism still persist but that is no longer the brutally blunt and invasive force it once represented in public life. The city is a gay friendly place. There is a

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St. Stephens Green Shopping Centre: One of Dublin’s iconic spots

flourishing scene here that is aptly reflected in the flamboyance of the annual Pride march and the extent to which that is now seen as part of the essential Dublin. There are gay theatre and film festivals. There is a statue of Oscar Wilde on Merrion Square, just across the road from Government buildings. We proudly celebrate his contribution to Irish literature, alongside Joyce, Beckett and O’Casey. He is more of a national hero than any of the religious leaders who might have done him down in the past. We all know that Ireland has produced a disproportionate number of acclaimed writers, from Jonathan Swift and Edmund Burke through Bram Stoker and William Butler Yeats to Seamus Heaney. But with the collapse of the censorship system, these days they tend to stay in Ireland rather than fleeing like Joyce and Beckett did, and literary life has taken on an added vibrancy.

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We have had more than our fair share of Dublin-based Booker Prize winners, John Banville and Anne Enright among them, but there are as many practitioners of genre fiction as literary stars to be reckoned with, including the likes of Tana French, Declan Hughes and Gene Kerrigan, and of course in the wake of Maeve Binchy’s success, we have a home-grown chick lit industry that has produced numerous writers capable of hitting the top of the Best Sellers in the UK and further afield as well as here. Ireland is a country of story-tellers. Things have also become a lot more interesting in the world of movies over the past five years. Ireland has produced a lot of actors of irresistible heft, who have been making an impression in the wider world beyond these shores, many of them from Dublin. The late-blooming success of Brendan Gleeson is inspirational: here

is a genuine, cussed-looking Dub who has demonstrated a gift for acting – and who has also carried himself with sufficient gravitas to win big parts. His son Dohmnall is following in his footsteps, with almost 20 films to his credit in less than a decade, including Harry Potter & The Deathly Hollows. But he is just one of the new kids on the block, who are ensuring that Ireland is seen as a source of creative cinematic talent that has to be mined. The fact that the national broadcaster R.T.É. is now making cutting edge contemporary drama like Raw and Love/ Hate is a boon for young actors, writers and directors. In the Irish Film Board, we also have a funding body that is willing to back ambitious, albeit low budget movies in a way that has made a huge difference. This feeds into what is happening on the streets. Supported at the outset by the I.F.B., The Factory, created by Once director John Carney and Kirsten Sheridan, and also involving director Lance Daly and casing agent Maureen Hughes, is providing a hub, out of which all sorts of creative alliances and initiatives can be spun. The film business is still under-funded and raising money for bigger productions is a nightmare in the context of the collapse of the global economy – but after all these years there is finally a burgeoning movie culture in Dublin that is producing consistently excellent work. In a sense, movies are playing catchup on the Dublin music scene, which continues to produce wave after wave of extraordinary new talent, across a whole range of styles and genres. Rock bands are as strong as ever from Delorentos through Leaders Of Men and The Riptide Movement to instrumental rockers like Adebisi Shank. Imelda May, Villagers, James Vincent McMorrow, Ryan Sheridan, Damien Dempsey, Lisa Hannigan and the more recent likes of We Cut Corners have demonstrated that success is only around the corner if what you are doing is sufficiently driven and accomplished. Archetypal, and in the best sense upwardly mobile, Dubliners The Script have shown that Irish pop can cut it in the States. Glen Hansard, a northside hero, has gone supernova with the success of Once as a stage musical on Broadway and a posse of singer songwriters, including the hugely promising Eric McGrath and Laura Sheeran, are aiming to repeat the success achieved by both Glen and Damien Rice. And out in the suburbs, an Irish hip hop scene has been finding its feet, with a number of serious contenders including Lethal Dialect, the artist formerly known as Lecs Luther, Reggie Snow, TemperMental Miss Elayneous and The Original Rudeboys all primed to follow in the footsteps of Wexford’s Maverick Sabre.

D UBLIN

Glen Hansard on Grafton Street in a scence from John Carney’s Once

It can still be tough for budding musicians to earn a crust, but if you are into music, here in Dublin, every night of the week there is at least one gig worth catching, and often more. There are thousands of artists and bands. The problem is not finding something good to listen to, it is rather trying to keep up with everything good that’s happening. But that, of course, is the best kind of complaint.

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The long and the short of it is that Dublin is rocking. Which is what The Best of Dublin aims to celebrate. There are times when Irish people are inclined to get down on themselves – or on their compatriots. The spirit of begrudgery remains part of the national disposition. Well, there’s been

more than enough of that already to last us till the end of the Millennium so let’s move on. It is time to think and to act positively. In a moment of deep economic peril, it makes more sense than ever before, for us all to pull together, recognize and applaud what is good about the place that we’re living in – and let those who are thinking of coming here, or who have just landed, know how they can best get the most pleasure and enjoyment from the city, all the better to galvanize them to encourage their families, friends, neighbors and colleagues to make Dublin their destination for a weekend break or a holiday just as soon as is humanly possible. This is about business and jobs and the future of the capital. But it is also about community and friendship and shared experience. We’re all in this together – or we should be. So the sleuths from H.P. central have been out and about. We have canvassed our loyal readers and members of hotpress.com for suggestions. The recommendations have been flooding in. The result of the collective deliberations are in your hands. Hallelujah. That’s the feeling which Dublin at its best inspires – an almost religious sense of loyalty. Anna Livia Plurabelle. Hallelujah – I just love her so. Now, let’s party...

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D U BLIN FO R F REE The Botanic Gardens & (right) The Chester Beatty Library (previous page) Glasnevin Cemetery

Sometimes we don’t know how lucky we are. Compared to many European cities, Dublin actually has lots of great free activities to offer. Armed with this handy guide, you’ll quickly discover that getting to know Dublin doesn’t have to involve taking out a mortgage...

WORDS

Monica Heck

PARKS Dublin is full of great parks for those who want to escape the din of traffic and the bustle of the streets. For a quick escape in the city centre, jump into one of the hidden parks in Dublin’s Georgian squares. The most obvious option is St. Stephen’s Green, which is the biggest and most central. On the south side of the Green, hidden behind the elegant houses are the Iveagh Gardens, accessed off Harcourt Street. You can visit the suitably whimsical statue of Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square, where you can also wander the picturesque winding paths. Slightly further out, you can feed the ducks in Herbert Park or have a picnic on the rolling lawns. To the north of the city, a stroll around the National Botanic Gardens, which are full of the most intriguing plants is a treat. Check out the greenhouse, which boasts all sorts of wonders, from cacti to carnivorous plants. St. Anne’s Park, which runs from Clontarf to Raheny, is a massive space with rose gardens, tennis courts and football pitches

galore. In addition, its refurbished Red Stables now house an arts centre and a farmer’s market. For sport, wild deer spotting and a peek at the house of the President of Ireland, head up to the Phoenix Park. At over 1,700 acres, it’s one of the largest enclosed green spaces in a European capital city.

CANALS The Royal Canal and The Grand Canal link Dublin to the River Shannon. These fascinating waterways were used for transporting goods and people. They cut an extraordinary trajectory across the country, creating a picturesque and atmospheric trail that can be followed in stretches on foot – or navigated on boat or barge. Within the city there are lovely canal side walks that are well worth taking time out for. You can stroll along the Grand Canal between Baggot St. and Portobello, sit alongside the statue of Patrick Kavanagh, check out the barges that dock, and stop at the appropriately named Barge pub for a pint. Or check out the front of the recently renamed Bord Gáis Energy Theatre (formerly Grand Canal Theatre) with its forest of enormous red bristles, before taking a stroll down to Windmill Lane, to read the famous graffiti messages to U2 outside. The Royal Canal was immortalised by Dominic Behan in the song ‘The Auld Triangle’, which featured in Brendan Behan’s play The Quare Fellow. You can walk along the canal from North Strand, out beyond Brombridge to Longford Bridge at the start of the Naas Roa, passing along the statue of Brendan Behan between Clonliffe Bridge and Binn’s Bridge in Phibsboro. Serious walkers should consider getting a guide to the canal ways from Waterways Ireland, which will inform about longer sections safely.

BEACHES It’s easy to forget Dublin is beside the sea – until a giant hungry seagull starts stalking your sandwich in the middle of Jervis St! But a Dublin suit can turn into beach bum in minutes by heading to Dollymount

Strand, a stretch of beach in Clontarf, which becomes a hive of activity on a sunny day. Further north of the city is the stunning Portmarnock beach, a long stretch of sand – ideal for a windy walk or a swim – which is best accessed by bus. In north county Dublin the beaches of Portrane, Skerries and Balbriggan are also well worth visiting. On the southside closest to the city is Sandymount Strand, great for walking when the tide is out. The Shelly Banks is a renowned swimming spot. Similarly Seapoint and The Forty Foot... but if you want to swim, check the tide is in. Further

B E S T PA R KS PHOENIX PARK The largest enclosed park in Europe and home to a zoo, wildlife areas, nature trails, sports fields and national monuments. A great escape from city life.

HERBERT PARK Sprawled across 32 acres in Ballsbridge, Herbert Park attracts local workers and joggers. Features a great children’s playground, and tennis courts. There are also council run GAA and soccer pitches.

ST. ANNE’S PARK A large park with gardens in Raheny, the kind of place to laze on a sunny afternoon.

WAR MEMORIAL GARDEN A quiet corner of Islandbridge that is often overlooked: the landscaped garden is one of the most impressive on the island.

MERRION SQUARE PARK The grandest of the city centre’s Georgian Squares, the greens and surrounding flowerbeds make an ideal location for an urban picnic. Be sure to visit the statue of Oscar Wilde reclining in the park’s northwest corner.

MOUNTJOY SQUARE PARK Mountjoy Square is one of the city’s great Georgian squares. The park is a great place for hanging out and soaking up the sun.

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DU B LIN F OR F R E E south the stoney beaches of Killiney and Bray (officially in Wicklow!), with their calm waters and delicate views, are easily accessible on the DART.

ART & ANTIQUES The area around Thomas St., Francis St. and Meath St. is slowly emerging as a rather wonderful bohemian, artistic quarter. Places like Gallery Zozimus, artist studios like La Cathedral and various antique shops have sprung up around the area, and you can wander in free for a gawk, making it a must-see for anyone interested not only in art, but in rediscovering one of the older areas of the city, the Liberties.

MUSEUMS & ART GALLERIES Unlike a lot of European cities, you can visit a number of the major Dublin museums free. The National Museum of Ireland boasts three Dublin locations: the archaeology section on Kildare St. in Dublin 2; the decorative arts and history section in Collins Barracks Dublin 7; and the Natural History Museum (sometimes known as the “dead zoo”) on Merrion Square in Dublin 2. Other free museums include The National Print Museum, located in the historic Beggars Bush Barracks, and The Science Gallery in Trinity College, on Pearse Street close to the Westland Row train station. There is also free art in abundance. Apart from the option of freewheeling around the best small galleries, the National Gallery of Ireland on Merrion Square West boasts a superb collection of classics from Breton to Caravaggio to Rembrandt. In Kilmainham, on the site of the old Royal Hospital, you’ll find the Irish Museum of Modern Art and its Irish and international collection of visual work, sculpture and installations. Meanwhile, Francis Bacon’s studio at the Hugh Lane Gallery on Parnell Square is well worth visiting – as is the Chester Beatty art museum and library in Dublin Castle with its East Asian, Islamic and Western collections. Indeed many people describe this adds the highlight of their visit to Dublin – so if you haven’t been there as a Dubliner, well, now is the time to make the short pilgrimage

MOUNTAINS Proximity to the mountains is one of Dublin’s great attractions as a city – you can be in the foothills of Rathfarnham in half an hour from the city centre. Anyone with a penchant for the spooky would be well-advised to visit the Hell Fire Club on Montpelier Hill, between Rathfarnham and Glencullen. At the very top of a winding walk through the woods is the ruin of an old hunting lodge, built around

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1725, which carries in its twisted structure whispered legends of the occult. Dark fabrications aside, the view from the Hell Fire Club onto Dublin Bay is astonishing on a good day. On a dark Hallowe’en afternoon, however, you may bump into someone disguised as Leatherface from The Texas Chain Saw Massacre. Don’t say you weren’t warned! A bit further up the mountains is Kilakee car park, famous as a lover’s retreat. There are also great walks at Ticknock, which is just a short hike beyond the 16 bus route up Grange Road.

HISTORIC BUILDINGS On your walks around Dublin, for a mix of history and architecture, you can pop your head into – or at least inside the gates of – a number of historic buildings. Key attractions include Dublin City Hall, which has marvellous gardens as well as a fine courtyard, Bank of Ireland on College Green (including what was originally The House of Lords, designed by the great architect James Gandon), the grounds of Trinity College, the Four Courts, also designed by Gandon, the Customs House, perhaps Gandon’s finest achievement, which now accommodates the Department

of the Environment, and Dublin’s main post office, the GPO, which is famous for the fact that it was taken over by the rebels during the 1916 Rising.

BEST BEACHES SEAPOINT Ideal for swimmers, surfers and canoeists with lifeguards on duty during summer.

KILLINEY A sheltered and picturesque stretch of pebbled seafront.

SANDYMOUNT STRAND Not suitable for swimming due to the unpredictable tide but one of the most popular walks in the city with great views of Dublin Bay.

PORTMARNOCK A great view of Howth Head for swimmers.

BALBRIGGAN Three sandy beaches draw a crowd when the sun is shining.

D U B L I N F O R F RE E

DUBLIN FOR FREE

The Four Courts & (right) Comedian David McSavage

Whether you’re more broke than Sean Quinn’s banker or just trying to save a few pennies, there are lots of ways to get your rocks off in this town without dropping a single note. Here are a few of our favourite freebie days and nights out... WORDS

Celina Murphy

FLICK ‘N’ MIX What: Blackcat World Film Club Where: The Twisted Pepper, Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1 When: The first Thursday of the month, and on special occasions Once a month, electronic dance haven The Twisted Pepper becomes a mini-cinema for the Blackcat World Film Club, showing art house classics such as French drama Les Choristes, Woody Allen’s fantasy comedy Midnight In Paris and cult favourite Life Is Beautiful.

ART & SOUL What: First Thursdays Dublin Tour Where: A handful of venues in Temple Bar When: The first Thursday of the month, including August 2, September 6, October 4 As part of the First Thursdays initiative, art buff Pace Borza-Butterly leads a onehour tour of four galleries in Temple Bar on – quelle surprise – the first Thursday of every month. To book your place, email info@templebar.ie or call (01) 677 2255.

CULTURE FOR DUMMIES What: The Dublin Culture Trail Where: Pretty much everywhere When: Anytime The capital’s most celebrated tourist spots can all be covered in one go with Dublin Culture Trail, an interactive virtual jaunt through Dublin’s most iconic buildings. Launched late last year, the trail is based around a free downloadable iPhone app, which invites you to ditch the tour guide and plot your own route. Get started at dublinculturetrail.ie.

TALL TALES What: Milk & Cookie Stories Where: Exchange Dublin, Exchange St. Upper, Dublin 2 When: Second Tuesday of the month One a month, Temple Bar’s Exchange is transformed into a giant living-room with cushions and fairy lights and taken over by Milk & Cookie Stories, a volunteerrun arts, storytelling and home-baking collective. Milk & Cookies invites punters to tell or read a story of their choice, or just kick back and listen, Check milkandcookiestories.com.

COURTROOM DRAMA What: a first-hand look at criminal Ireland Where: The Four Courts, Inns Quay, Dublin 7 When: from 10am, Monday to Friday Architecture buffs and nosy parkers alike will find lots to like about the Four Courts. A tour around the 200-year-old icon on the Liffey is a must-see for buffs, and while we can’t promise you Kramer Vs. Kramer, there’s always something interesting happening. Check out the legal diary online at courts.ie to spot the really juicy cases.

THE NEW CLASS What: Student showcases Where: NCAD, IADT, DIT, Griffith College and UCD When: Throughout July, see the university website for dates As the academic year draws to a close, Dublin’s brightest new design and artistic talents flaunt their creative wares, with shows and exhibits at NCAD (fashion, art, industrial design), IADT (art, animation,

film), DIT (art, architecture, photography), Griffith College (fashion, architecture, interior design) and UCD (architecture).

PICTURE PERFECT What: The Gallery of Photography and the National Photographic Archive Where: Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 When: office hours, with late opening on Sundays (The Gallery Of Photography keeps its doors shut on Mondays) Dublin’s Gallery Of Photography in Meeting House Square has staged exhibitions with countless major names in contemporary photography. Next door at the National Photographic Archive, you’ll find a regular programme of exhibitions based on the National Library’s collection of 630,000 images depicting Irish life from the 1840s onwards.

JUST FOR LAUGHS What: The Comedy Crunch Where: The Stag’s Head, Dame Lane, Dublin 2 When: Sunday and Monday nights Victorian pub The Stag’s Head is the venue for the twice-weekly Comedy Crunch, a place to see established local and international funny people test out new material while you scoff free ice-cream. The Comedy Crunch has welcomed laughmeisters of the calibre of Fred Cooke, David McSavage and Foil Arms And Hog.

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DUBLIN AFTER DARK

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NIG HT LIF E

It seems like a new club night pops up in Dublin every other week and while that’s probably not far from the truth, it’s comforting to know that a couple of tried-and-tested summer shindigs are here to stay. Old or new, low-key or high-octane; here are some of the finest late-night parties the city has to offer. pretty young things, it’s an unmissable pitstop for inner-city college-goers and fresh-faced scenesters alike.

WORDS

Celina Murphy

MOTHER The Place: Copper Alley, Exchange St., Dublin 2. The Night: Saturdays, from 11pm. The Tunes: Retro and modern synth pop and electronica. The Damage: €10 Arguably the most colourful club night in the city, Mother is Ireland’s loudest and proudest LGBT bash, where Grace Jones, Robyn and Roisin Murphy flood the playlist and Dublin’s most stylish partyhunters flood the dancefloor. Hosted by artist Will St. Leger, it took this synth pop celebration no time at all to become a favourite among the local gay community, or indeed, anyone who likes a bit of glitz with their Saturday night tipple.

C.U.NEXT TUESDAY The Place: The Lost Society, Powerscourt Townhouse, South William St., Dublin 2 The Night: Tuesdays, from 10pm The Tunes: R&B, hip hop, indie and pop The Damage: Free until 10.30pm, €4 from 10.30 until 11pm and €6 after 11pm The cheekily-named C.U.N.T reached a near-legendary status in its early home of Crawdaddy, and now happily nuzzled into South William St.’s Lost Society, it shows absolutely no sign of slowing down. Boasting a strictly non-discriminatory music policy and a dedicated fan base of

THE BUDDHA CLUB The Place: The Sycamore Club, Sycamore St., Dublin 2 The Night: Selected Fridays The Tunes: Hip hop and ‘90s in the main room, electro and house in the loft The Damage: TBC Dublin’s newest club night has very little to do with a chubby-faced spiritual leader from Nepal, but there was plenty of Eastern promise about its buzzing inaugural bash in June. Located on a stylish Temple Bar rooftop, the club’s coming-out party featured bongo players, shisha pipes, live MCs and no less than four rooms of music. Organisers have yet to confirm details of the follow-up, so keep an eye on the Facebook page (facebook.com/ BuddhaClubDublin) for more info, and remember, you heard it here first.

FUNKY SEOMRA The Place: The RDS, Merrion Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 The Night: Selected Saturdays, from 8pm, including July 21, September 22, and October 27. The Tunes: Klezmer, electro swing, soul, funk, reggae, African and more The Damage: €15 Exposing a truly unique facet to Irish nightlife, Funky Seomra is a South Dublin party without alcohol. It’ll cost you €15 to enter, but once inside a selection of games, arts and crafts are all free of charge, while massage, shiatsu, facepainting and café drinks are all available to purchase. Expect fun, frolics and festival vibes, all without the hangover.

SPACE… THE VINYL FRONTIER The Place: Rí-Rá, Dame Court, Dublin 2 The Night: Saturdays, from 11pm

The Tunes: Soul, funk, disco, electro, house The Damage: Nada One of the few vinyl-only club nights in the city, Space… The Vinyl Frontier is not only ingeniously-named, but also very cleverly soundtracked by a gang of dusty-fingered musical curates, some you’ll know, and some you won’t (hint; we’ve spotted Glen Hansard on the decks on a few occasions). From The Supremes to The Bee Gees and from Jape to Justice, it’s an unpredictable mix of classics from all eras, all spun on wax under the watchful eye of stern poster boy Leonard Nimoy.

FORWARD/SLASH The Place: The Bernard Shaw, South Richmond St., Rathmines, Dublin 2 The Night: Thursdays, from 8pm The Tunes: Hip hop, reggae, dancehall, soul, funk and electronica The Damage: Bubcus Best known for its live rock and electronica showcases, Forward/Slash has welcomed the very best Irish music talent to Portobello’s Bernard Shaw over the past two years, including MMOTHS, Daithí, Monto, Lemonada, Girl Band, We Are Losers and Tenaka. Along with resident DJs and regular art exhibitions, it’s Forward/Slash’s particularly open-minded approach to late-night entertainment (this past February brought an R. Kelly Appreciation Session!) that keeps folk coming back.

MUD The Place: The Twisted Pepper, Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1 The Night: Fridays, from 10pm The Tunes: Dubstep, dancehall, grime, hip hop and world beats The Damage: from €10, or €8 with membership, depending on the artist According to its Facebook profile, MUD, the urban takeover that infiltrates The Twisted Pepper every Friday night, is all

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NI G H T LIF E

DUBLIN NIGHTCLUBS LILLIE’S BORDELLO Adam Court, Grafton St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 9204, lilliesbordello.ie

Sunday Roast

The Mercantile’s Sunday Roast is the perfect place to round off a weekend of partying. about one thing: bass. A star-studded list of past performers, including Q-Tip, Hudson Mohawke, James Blake, Beardyman, Dam Funk, Mount Kimbie and Chymera, would certainly prove their point, but it’s a tagline that’s definitely selling the weekly jam short. MUD is best described as a place to see new artists before they blow up and hear new tracks before the rest of the city’s DJs gets their paws on them.

SOMEWHERE? The Place: Workman’s Club, Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 The Night: Wednesdays, from 10.30pm The Tunes: Indie classics in one room, hip hop, R&B and house in the other The Damage: €5 You’d be forgiven for thinking that the mysteriously-titled club night that takes over Wellington Quay’s Workman’s Club every Wednesday night operates with pretty broad tastes, but to the contrary, the DJs behind this riverside shindig know exactly what the regulars want; indie classics and old school R&B. Expect everything from The Maccabees to Nirvana upstairs, and everything from Whitney Houston to N*E*R*D in the main venue.

SUNDAY ROAST The Place: The Mercantile, Dame St., Dublin 2 The Night: Sunday, from 9pm The Tunes: Rock, pop, electronic and disco The Damage: Diddly-squat Combining the two greatest things in life, namely, free food and good music, The Mercantile’s Sunday Roast is the perfect place to round off a weekend of partying. Now in its eighth year, the Roast’s organisers hit on a winning formula from the start, offering live bands, DJ sets, board games and free roast potatoes, all without charging a cover fee. Take it from us; the spuds are top notch.

HOUSEWERK The Place: The Grand Social, Lower Liffey St., Dublin 1 The Night: Thursdays 034

The Tunes: House, hip hop and Indie The Damage: €8 When not ushering in up-and-coming DJs for its Presents series, you can generally find Housewerk, formerly of Crawdaddy, filling the ears of dancefloor dwellers with deep, tech, soulful and old school house music from folk like Kerri Chandler, Christopher Rau, Homework, Lovebirds and Moodymann. Previous guests include Axel Boman, San Soda and Slowburn.

CARNIVAL The Place: The Wright Venue, South Quarter, Airside Retail Park, Swords The Night: Saturdays, from 10pm The Tunes: Pop, retro and R&B The Damage: €15 or €10 for members (before 11.30pm) Probably the only club on our list where you’re likely to bump into Rihanna or 50 Cent (if you take “bump into” to mean “spot behind a velvet rope from a great distance”), The Wright Venue is never busier than on Saturday nights when Carnival brings a theatrical twist to the Swords venue. Across three floors and seven bars, you’ll hear a mix of chart pop and R&B in the main room, the sounds of the ‘70s and ‘80s in the Purple Room and strictly sultry pop in the Penthouse.

THE AFTER WORK PARTY AT MCGRATTANS The Place: McGrattans, Fitzwilliam Lane, Dublin 2 The Night: Fridays, from 9pm The Tunes: ‘80s and ‘90s pop and R&B. The Damage: Zilch Baggot St.’s modest café bar has undergone quite a transformation since being taken under the wing of Anthony Remedy, the promoter behind legendary club nights like the dearly departed War at ALT. Now a hopping nightspot for grown-ups, McGrattan’s is best known for its fascinating clientele (Anne Doyle frequently drops in to chair the table quiz), its killer beer garden and its pocket-friendly bar (we’ve yet to find a better deal than a bottle of wine for a tenner).

The original VIP hangout, Lillie’s caters for a dressed-up, fun-loving crowd with the occasional visiting media superstar or teen idol making up the numbers. Expect slick interiors and tasty cocktails. Popular early in the week for dedicated night-owls seeking a late night lounge. Their Sunday Service night is always assured a full dancefloor and Thursdays are dedicated to R&B tunes in the main bar and round bar members area.

COPPER FACE JACKS Jackson Court Hotel, 29 – 30 Harcourt St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 475 8777, jackson-court.ie

Copper Face Jacks is more than a nightclub, it is a lifestyle choice. Filled to the brim seven nights a week with a throbbing mass of humanity, Coppers is widely regarded as the place in the city you are most likely to meet a partner for the night. Probably from Leitrim or Cavan. You are also very likely to hear the DJ play ‘Maniac 2000’ by Mark McCabe and ‘The Hills Of Donegal’ by Goats Don’t Shave. Go for a carefree, dressed down night out.

WRIGHT VENUE South Quarter, Airside, Dublin Tel: (01) 890 0099, thewrightvenue.ie

Based in the unlikely location of an industrial park, this warehouse of fun features different extravagantly appointed bars surrounding the large dancefloor. Popular as a venue for international DJs and pop acts, this huge venue offers suburbia an ideal place to party.

KRYSTLE 21 Harcourt St, Rathmines, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 478 4066, krystlenightclub.com

A club that has made a big noise since it opened in 2006, Krystle attracts a steady stream of models, rugby players and a dedicated dressed-to-impress clientele. An expansive outside smoking area is where most of the regulars hang out and where you are mostly likely to overhear the best gossip.

BUCK’S TOWNHOUSE 67 Lower Leeson St., Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 633 4200, buckwhaleys.ie

A lively club spread over four rooms with dance music pumping out in the main venue and live music in their upstairs piano bar each weekend. An occasional venue for album launches and fashion aftershows, Buck’s have carved out their own niche on Leeson St.

my DUBL IN

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LOUISE JOHNSTON

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MODEL & BRAND ACTIVATOR FOR BACARDI

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What do you like best about Dublin? I love that Dublin is a small and intimate city. You cannot turn a corner without bumping into someone you know. All Dubliners suffer from Small Town Syndrome. Everyone knows everyone, no other first world capital city can claim that. Best outdoors place? It’s right under our noses and it’s the biggest public park in Europe. It’s 350 years old this year and its full of things to do, Phoenix Park. Dublin’s best restaurant? Bite, South Frederick St. I’m obsessed with all things sea food and Bite offers the perfect blend of high end fish and chips with cocktails. When it comes to dining out, I’m all about the ambiance and I have yet to fault Bite on this. Service is excellent and fast and the food is unbelievable! Try the lobster burger and the pil pil prawns. Dublin’s best bar? I could debate this all day. Choice of bar should always depend on one’s mood but all my favourite places are in the D2 area. For casual drinks its NoName Bar (or as some people call it, The Snail Bar) on Fade St. We discovered this bar when we lived directly above it while filming Fade St. Instead of allowing the noise from the beer garden to keep us awake, we used to pop in for a drink before it closed. It’s always nice and dark in No Name so you never get a sense of overcrowding even when it’s packed. Their terrace area is very cosy and what I love most

about this bar is, you don’t ever feel the need to dress up. …And The Hairy Lemon, it’s perfect for a first date. There’s loads of nooks and crannies so you can easily go undetected! It’s a very quirky bar and they also are wellknown for serving good pub grub. For cocktails, I’d suggest none but three bars: Harry’s on the Green, The Grafton Lounge and The Exchequer. Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? When I do cook I pick up ingredients in Donnybrook Fair and Fallon & Byrne. Where do you shop for clothes? Zara, Aldo, H&M, BT2. Favourite Dublin building? Trinity Arch Hotel, Dame St. and Lafayette Building, Westmoreland St. Your Dublin music? Sunny Side Up @ The Village, Sundays 2pm - 12am with David de Valera playing the finest house music all day. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? Ranelagh Village. My Dublin hero? Miriam O’Callaghan. She can do no wrong. When you’re with friends in Dublin, what do you like to do? Sober option: Dún Laoghaire market, the People’s Park. Not so sober option: Dinner and drinks, followed by more drinks.

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DRI N K

BEST OF DUBLIN:

C O C K TA I L S

T HE SPE A K E A SY A RC H I V E In October 1919, the 66th United States Congress passed the Volstead Act, which prohibited the production and sale of intoxicating beverages. What followed was a 13-year period of embargo that has since become known as the Prohibition Era. During this time, a wealth of illicit establishments sprang up around the US, offering high-quality food, entertainment and alcoholic drinks to their clientele. Bartenders at the time encouraged patrons to ‘speak easy’ to avoid raising suspicion, and The Speakeasy was born. Almost a century on, these drinks have been celebrated by The Speakeasy Archive, a special menu recreated by using products that are rich in history and heritage of their own. Reflective of this heritage, each drink is served in a unique drinking vessel. Order one of these vintage serves for the taste of a by-gone era, but don’t forget to speak easy.

PHOTOS:

Marit Ehmke

Now available in leading Dublin bars including Leopardstown Inn, Saba, Harry’s on The Green, Marble Bar at The Westbury, No Name Bar, The Exchequer, Residence, Jack Nealon’s, Duffy’s and The Beacon.

�� 01. ON THE ROCKS Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel On The Rocks

03. MINT JULEP Woodford Reserve Mint Julep

Rich and robust, from extreme maturation, each barrel is uniquely different. Savour the hints of orange, brown sugar and spice served over ice.

Served at Churchill Downs since 1938, the Mint Julep has become synonymous with America’s most famous horse race. Handcrafted in small batches and triple distilled, Woodford Reserve is the perfect ﬁt for this vintage cocktail. Best enjoyed in a traditional American copper cup for the full Kentucky Derby experience.

02. OLD FASHIONED Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Old Fashioned The unique ﬂavour of Jack Daniel’s from a single barrel ﬁts perfectly with this classic whiskey cocktail. Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel, sugar and bitters served over ice and topped with an orange zest. Served in a classic Jack Daniel’s rocks glass.

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04. MARGARITA Herredura Margarita Herradura Reposado is “rested” or aged for 11 months, which gives this tequila its deep copper colour and exceptionally smooth taste. When combined with triple sec and lime juice, Herradura Reposado creates a truly exceptional expression of the classic Mexican cocktail. Served in a handblown Mexican tumbler for that proper “south of the border” feel.

DUBLINS FINEST BUILDINGS

The casino in Marino

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ARC HIT EC TURE

Dublin may not be ranked in the world’s top five cities for architecture, but there is a lot to celebrate about the buildings and the streets that shape our lives. Here, PAUL KEOGH, one of Dublin’s leading architects, selects the buildings in the capitol, which most deserve our fresh attention…

PHOTOS:

Marit Ehmke

Inside Marsh’s Library

n picking the best and most interesting buildings in Dublin, I decided to avoid all the usual icons that people talk about like the National Gallery, the Convention Centre, the Grand Canal Theatre, the Aviva, Croke Park and all of Dublin’s cathedrals and museums. Instead, I’d like to introduce people to buildings which may not be well-known, but are a big part of what makes Dublin a really good place to live and visit. I’m really interested in the way good architecture contributes to the attractiveness of the city as a place to live, work, shop and visit. That’s what really does it for me. The Grand Canal Harbour has really become a great place to live and it shows what contemporary life in the city might be. There are at least three or four really good residential buildings: the Alto Vetro tower, the Millennium Tower and the Montevetro are all ﬁrst rate examples of good apartment living. There’s access to great shops, you have the theatre and restaurants nearby and you’ve access to the water making it a really good urban hub. The area around the South Circular Road, Avoca Road and Lombard St. is a really, really elegant and beautiful collection of residential streets. It became popularised by yuppies in the ’70s when it was the only alternative in Dublin to buying a house in the suburbs. All of those houses have been renovated and

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ARC H ITE CT UR E

modernized in the last 30 years and it’s really vibrant now. BB’s Café has become a kind of neighbourhood local and is a really wonderful place. Another great spot is Meeting House Square in Temple Bar. I was part of Group 91 which designed the Temple Bar Framework Plan and it was the first new open space in the city for about a century. It’s a really buzzing area with outdoor films, outdoor theatre and concerts, the cafe and restaurants in the square and fantastic weekend markets. Architecturally it’s very famous so it’s another Dublin special. For me, the jury’s out about the new roof and the changes they’ve made to it – but time will tell. In terms of really good community buildings, the first one that comes to mind is the new Swan Leisure centre in

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designed by O’Donnell and Tuomey, is also excellent. East Wall was one of the most neglected areas in the city with the demise of the docklands. The Dublin Docklands Development Authority have gotten a lot of flack recently but that building is great for the community: it has a full range of education, arts and leisure facilities and there’s lovely playful elevations and nice interaction between the indoor and outdoor spaces. It’s one of my favorite buildings of its type. Historic places are an important part of what Dublin has to offer. Marshes’ Library – a beautiful little oasis in the city – is an example. It’s like a microcosm of Trinity Library and has the same plan of a central aisle with little carrels on either side where the books are kept and little gates with locks into them so that people could be locked in, to read the books! It’s a 17th century building, just over beside St. Patrick’s Cathedral. It’s beautiful and really brings you back in time. The Casino Marino was Lord Charlemont’s getaway from Charlemont House, which is now the Hugh Lane Gallery on Parnell Square and there’s an underground tunnel connected to it. It’s where the Lord and his acquaintances went for a bit of fun and diversion. When you look at it from the outside you think it’s just one room inside but when you go into it there’s 16 rooms on three floors – it’s a very intricate little place. It’s described very often to architecture students as being the most perfect building ever built because of its proportions and its use of classical architecture. Guinness My Grandfather Storehouse always brought me The escalators through the steelto Kilmainham work gives it the character of a Gaol where he was interned, so metropolis moment – and when the building has you go up through the building always meant a through wonderful exhibits to a Rathmines. lot to me. It has It has won great architecture bar at the top of the building there awards for its but also has a are fantastic views over the architecture huge amount of whole city. but it’s also great history embedded in because it’s brought it. I love the sense of the new life into the centre impenetrable outside with of the area. There’s a gym, very heavy stone work – but a swimming pool and a sports hall then you go into it and all the metal in the first level and then it’s topped with galleries and staircases make for a very light apartments so it’s a great piece of mixed structure. Also on the outside it looks like use development and city design by very there’s no windows but the main prison has good architects called Donnelly & Turpin. a big roof-light so it’s a really bright space. It’s an excellent example of the value I said I wouldn’t mention too many of of spending money on leisure facilities. the icons but Guinness Store House There’s also similar facilities in Ballyfermot is a very beautiful building of its type and Finglas. I think these sort of facilities with the decorative brick exterior and the that are really essential to the operation and heavy steel inside. The way the architects, livability of modern cities. Robinson, Keefe and Devane, put the The East Wall Community Centre, escalators through the steel-work gives

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Swan Leisure Centre

Marsh’s Library

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it the character of a metropolis moment – and when you go up through the building through wonderful exhibits to a beautiful circular bar at the top of the building there are fantastic views over the whole city. A recent example of very contemporary architecture fitting into the historic fabric of the city is the Department of Finance Building on Merrion St., designed by the Grafton Architects. It’s very contemporary and yet fits in very well with the historic surroundings. It’s an office building with a difference because it’s not air conditioned and there’s no open windows, but it relies on a very inventive system of natural ventilation. The elevations keep the proportions of Georgian Dublin City but they’re very playful in the way they use solid and void. It’s a building that respects its context but doesn’t mimic it. The Paul Koralek-designed original library in Trinity College sits beautifully in its historic context, even though the building is very contemporary. It uses granite, which is deferential to the granite buildings in Trinity, but also uses boardmark concrete which – when it was designed in the ‘60s – was the quintessential contemporary material. When you go inside it’s a beautiful library space, really quiet, very conducive to study and it uses natural lighting in a very dramatic way. Busaras by Michael Scott was one of the first buildings to be built in Ireland after the war. It became an icon of the beginnings of contemporary architecture in Ireland and was fairly heavily influenced

ARC HIT EC TURE

Kodak House

Meeting House Square in Temple Bar

Kodak House in Rathmines: one of the few remaining Art Deco buildings in its original state.

by French architecture of Le Corbusier. It very beautifully incorporates art work into the building, particularly the mosaics and the furnishings and fittings, which are designed by Pat Scott. The main hall with its shell roof was very technically advanced at the time and it has a beautiful, light atmosphere. Kodak House in Rathmines is one of the few remaining Art Deco buildings in its original state. A number of years ago, we were very fortunate to get the opportunity to do an adaptation and conservation job on it and it’s now a space for an advertising agency. The upper floor now has very dramatic roof lights, the old steel structure is left exposed and the factory roof is still there. It’s a rather special place and a very interesting example of a place to work. In terms of shopping, I get a good buzz every time I go into Fallon & Byrne in Exchequer St. which was an old telephone exchange building. There are plenty of buildings like that in the city and people always wonder what new use they’ll have, but it’s a fantastic adaptation of that building to have a wine bar in the basement, the shopping floor at street level – and then the upper floor restaurant in a lovely brasserie style. It’s a great example of architectural conservation bringing back old buildings, which seem redundant, to vital new uses. I wanted to mention a school: the Ranelagh Multi-denominational school by O’Donnell and Tuomey is one of the nicest small school buildings in the city. Children queue to get places there

Swan Leisure Centre in Rathmines

not only for the quality of the education and the fact that it’s multi-denominational, but for the building too. It was a very difﬁcult architectural challenge because Ranelagh is so historic and there are so many conservation issues with Mount Pleasant Avenue and the big terraces. They managed to pull that off very well with a very lively elevation to Ranelagh Road. It’s the kind of building that anyone would like to be educated in. Ronald Tallon’s Bank of Ireland on Baggot St. is a really great example of ‘60s architecture blending into a Georgian streetscape. While conservation is really very important to preserve the historic ambience of Dublin, sometimes things that are demolished can be replaced with something better. It ﬁts so well into its

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•DUBLIN’S ICONIC BUILDINGS• THE CUSTOM HOUSE

The Custom House is a neoclassical 18th century building located on the north bank of the River Liffey, next to the thriving IFSC. In 1781 the first commissioner of revenue, John Beresford, appointed architect James Gandon to design a building on the river for collecting custom duties. As the port moved further downriver, its original use became obsolete and so it became the local government headquarters. Today it houses the Department of the Environment, Community and Local Government. Lisa Hannigan on location in Busarus during a photoshoot

Georgian context and matches the four or ﬁve storey town houses on either side but then builds impressively up to higher volumes. At the west-end of Temple Bar is one of the nicest residential buildings in Dublin, the Wooden Building. I think that area has worked very well as a place to live and to shop and it’s beginning to develop a nice boutiquey ambience, with cafes and shops. It’s also free from the tourist hordes that dominate the rest of Temple Bar. The building is designed by Shane de Blacam and is an exceptional small tower in the centre of the city with a beautiful timber-clad structure and very beautiful apartments internally. From the upper ﬂoors you have great views over the city and you also see it on the skyline from certain places. In conversation with Emma-Louise Hutchinson.

St. Patrick’s Cathedral

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CHRISTCHURCH CATHEDRAL

The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity was founded in 1028 and is the spiritual heart of Dublin City. With its fascinating structure and beautiful interior it’s the oldest of the city’s two medieval cathedrals, the other being St. Patrick’s Cathedral.

TRINITY COLLEGE

In 1592 a small group of Dublin citizens obtained a charter from Queen Elizabeth for Ireland’s first university and it continued to grow and develop in the country’s most distinguished universities. Home to the Book Of Kells and boasting graduates including Swift, Berkeley and Wilde, the college is steeped in history and still a busy hub of student activity to this day.

THE GPO

Dublin’s headquarters of the Irish Postal Service on O’Connell St. opened for

business on January 6, 1818, and is one of Ireland’s best-known buildings. It was the setting of the 1916 Rising and the original columns outside are still pocked with bullet-marks. The building has remained a symbol of Irish Nationalism and there’s a museum inside which houses an original copy of the Proclamation of the Republic.

DUBLIN CASTLE

In constant occupation since its establishment in 1204 A.D., Dublin Castle has played a prominent role in Ireland’s history from the founding of the first Celtic settlement in the 1st century AD to every Presidential inauguration since the foundation of the State. The prestigious State Apartments and the impressive Chester Beatty Library are open for guided tours.

IMMA

IMMA, in the Royal Hospital Kilmainham, is probably the finest 17th century building in Ireland. It was originally founded in 1684 by James Butler, Duke of Ormonde, as a home for retired soldiers with its formal façade and large elegant courtyard.

ST. PATRICK’S CATHEDRAL

This cathedral was built in honour of Ireland’s patron saint and dates from 1220. Today the Cathedral is the National Cathedral of the Church of Ireland and a popular tourist attraction. It’s the largest church in the country, with impressive grounds and a breath-taking interior. PAUL KEOGH

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•DISHES YOU MUST TRY•

Life is too short to eat bad dinners – or even lunches! To save you from that appalling fate, the Best Of Dublin team embarked on an epic culinary quest that took them from the secret back streets of the food world to the grandest of dining rooms. Having digested the results of our investigations, we hereby present: The 50 Best Things To Eat In Dublin Right Now.

GOATS CHEESE SOUFFLÉ Light, fluffy, tangy and likely to throw you into When Harry Met Sally-style paroxysms of delight. We’re talking the twice baked five mile town goats’ cheese & leek soufflé with walnut pesto, one of the many reasons – Sunday brunch being another – to check out the Whitefriar Grill, a contemporary Irish eatery presided over by owner/chef Geoff Nordell, who formerly worked under Eamon O’Reilly at Bleu Bistro Moderne.

Whitefriar Grill, 16 Aungier St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 475 9003, whitefriargrill.ie GARBANZOS CON MORCILLA Y ESPINACAS That’s chickpeas, black pudding, spinach, raisins & pine nuts to the non-Hispanics among you. This classic Basque pintxo has made it onto quite a few Dublin menus, but nobody does it quite like the kitchen crew in the Port House who have the advantage of actually being from Spain rather than – no offence – Drimnagh. Part of their insanely good value €10 lunch deal, this is one to be savoured every time.

The Port House, 64A South William Street, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 677 0298, porthouse.ie HEAVY METAL MACKEREL

Kevin Thornton is one of Ireland’s culinary wizards. Okay, it’s not called that on the Thornton’s menu, but the theatrical waft of dry ice when the lid’s lifted off their smoked mackerel amuse-bouche is worthy of a Motörhead gig. It also tastes divine, like pretty much everything at the Michelinstarred eatery does. Trying to choose between the Wild Irish Salmon Three Ways, the Magret of Moulard Duck with Girolles, Braised Cabbage and Morel Sauce and Noisette of Milk Fed Wicklow Lamb with Glazed Turnips, Woodland Garlic, Pommes Frites and Bog Oak Sauce on the dinner menu is the kind of thing to do your head in – in a good way! And then there’s the Valhrona Chocolate Tart!Thursday to Saturday lunch at €25 and €35 for two or three courses respectively is tremendous value.

Thornton’s, 1st Floor, Fitzwilliam St., 128 St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 478 7008, thorntonsrestaurant.com BLACKENED SWORDFISH STEAK

YOUR GUIDES:

Stuart Clark, Jerath Head, Malachy Geelan, Caitriona McBride, Nadene Ryan, Duan Stokes, Niall Stokes and Paul Trainer. PHOTOS: Marit Ehmke & Katie Stenson 046

John Farrell is one of the city’s most successful food entrepreneurs. In addition to the more central Il Primo and the recently opened Mexican eatery 777, he has made Ranelagh a stronghold with Dillinger’s and the Butcher’s Grill as flagships. At Dillinger’s they work the grill hard. The menu is American in its influences, with the likes of yellowfin tuna burgers alongside Manhattan fish chowder, and portions are generous. But the jewel in the crown is the blackened swordfish

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steak w/lemon & sour cream crushed baby potatoes, pickled cucumber salsa, samphire & crispy egg. Miscued, swordfish cam be dry and unexciting. But seasoned right and chargrilled intensely but not for too long it becomes dangerously flavoursome. The lemony crushed potatoes and crispy egg abet the fresh natural saltiness of the accompanying samphire in making this a brilliantly addictive dish.

Dillinger’s, 47 Ranelagh, Dublin 6. Tel: (01) 497 8010, dillingers.ie SEAFOOD PLATTER

For some of the best seafood in town check out Aqua Restaurant, on Howth’s west pier. The owners are keen sailors and know a thing or two about how to choose and prepare the very best fish. Shellfish lovers should try Aqua’s seafood platter. It’s a half lobster with two prawns, two oysters, Crayfish, Smoked Salmon and a fresh garden salad. As you enjoy this feast, take in the stunning panoramic views across Howth to the Ireland’s Eye. You’ll also be able to see the beautiful harbour, the marina, and the pier in one of Dublin’s most picturesque fishing villages.

Aqua Restaurant, 1 west Pier, Howth, Co. Dublin. Tel: (01) 832 0690, aqua.ie CODDLE

Set up in 2011, The Bakehouse eatery and wine bar was the Brainchild of Joanne Peat, who hoped to bring the traditional Irish food her parents were raised on

(from top) Lobster Lawyer from the Dylan Hotel & Garbanzos Con Morcilla Y Espinacas from The Port House

back to Dublin’s city centre. One year later we can escape the hustle and bustle of Bachelor’s walk to enjoy a pipiing hot bowl of old-school Dublin coddle, served with a hunk of homemade soda bread. With a delicious combination of sausages, bacon and root vegetables, this is simple archtypically Dublin food at its best.

The Bakehouse, 6 Bachelors Walk, Dublin 1. Tel: (01) 873 4279, the-bakehouse.ie SEAFOOD PLATTER

For an island nation we really don’t do fish and their ocean-going associates as well as we should. Thankfully there are notable

exceptions like Matt The Thresher where most of what’s on the menu started the day splashing around in either the Irish Sea or the Atlantic. The seafood platter is supposed to be for two, but we’ve never found anyone greedy enough to help us polish off its bounteous delights, which include Ted Browne’s famous smoked salmon, Carlingford oysters, fresh crab and crab claws, shrimp and the sort of brown bread your Ma makes.

Matt The Thresher 31 Lower Pembroke St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 676 2980, mattthethresher.ie

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FO OD tradition with a dash of contemporary panache, look no further than Les Frères Jacques, a silver service establishment that ranks as the best French restaurant in the country. The menu changes to suit the season: their daube of beef cooked in coca cola, available in the deep winter months is astonishingly good; and they do a great line in game in season. Staples include a brilliant grilled lobster, scallops and prawns – but their signature dish for over 25 years has been the whole grilled black sole meunière, a wonderfully refined classic dish perfectly executed. Ditto the saffron scented crème brûlée which it’s mandatory to have for afters.

Les Frères Jacques, 4 Dame St., Dublin 2. Tel. (01) 679 4555, lesfreresjacques.com HIBACHI SCALLOPS atmosphere, and using local produce in the kitchen to deliver great value distinctively Irish food. The 8-hour slow braised suckling pork belly, colcannon, apple and fig chutney and crispy leeks is a really good case in point. The trick with pork belly is to get the crackling really crispy but to leave the meat melt-in-the-mouth tender. Well, the Lovely Food Co. do that brilliantly, in what is a magnificent rendition of a new Irish favourite. The combination with colcannon is a classic that works superbly, and the sweetness of the chutney adds the final flourish. Mouth-wasteringly good at a great mains price of €18.95...

The Lovely Food Co., 14 Terenure Road West, Dublin 6. Tel: (01) 492 7717, lovelyfood.ie FISH SKEWERS

(from top) Fish Skewers from The Market Bar & Yamamori

SLOW-COOKED PORK BELLY Unless you’ve been in hibernation for the past 12 months, you’ll be aware that Dublin is in the grips of a gastropub revolution. At its epicenter is L. Mulligan Grocer, a spruced up old fellas’ bar whose star performer is slow-cooked pork belly with colcannon, roasted fennel, a Sailor Jerry rum and balsamic vinegar reduction and carrot and celeriac crisps. Amazingly it tastes as good as it sounds, with an extensive craft beer-list to help wash all that succulent meat down.

L. Mulligan Grocer, 18 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7. Tel: (01) 670 9889, lmulligangrocer.com SUCKLING PORK BELLY The Lovely Food Co. is a great little neighbourhood place in Terenure, run by Paul Breen, who has the distinction of being a Guinness Food Ambassador. The emphasis is on creating a buzzing

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The influence of Spain on Irish cuisine is evident from the growing popularity of tapas here. The Market Bar on Fade St. do a really good line in small portions, which can be approached in a pick ’n’ mix style by a group of people to make up a great lunch or dinner at very reasonable prices. Pints on the side are optional! There a really good healthy chicken salad dish and the Iberian classic Garbanzos con Morcilla (Chick Peas with Black Pudding) as well as indulgent nachos with all the trimmings – but the fish skewers are the highlight. This is hearty but still impressively light food. The skewers include salmon, prawns and whatever white fish best suits from the market on a given day. You get two skewers in a small portion, served with a great yellow rice that’s cooked with turmeric, paprika and tomato and gives the dish its impossible to resist quality. It is powerfully good stuff...

The Market Bar, 14A Fade St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 613 9094, marketbar.ie WHOLE GRILLED BLACK SOLE MEUNIÈRE If you like your cuisine to combine

It sounds like the name of a hipster Brooklyn band but, nope, hibachi scallops are one of the star performer’s at the Oriental Café. Chargrilled scallops are topped with wasabi mayo, seven spice – five is simply not enough for the Japanese – and crispy spring roll flakes to create a nibbly good dish that takes no prisoners. Also make sure to try the Izakaya burger – a traditional Japanese homemade burger made to a special recipe and currently flying off the menu.

Yamamori Izakaya, 12 South Great Georges St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 645 8001, yamamoriizakaya.ie PIT PORK BURRITO

There may be hipper Mexicans, but none that have such a winning way with a four tortilla as Café Azteca, a small but perfectly formed joint where authenticity is king and it’s possible to go in, have a full meal and still have change left from a €20 note. Chef-owner Hugo Camacho Romero is particularly proud of his pulled pork – no rude jokes please! – and justifiably so given how nibblesome it is when accompanying rice, refried beans, cheese and pico de gallo sauce in a pibil burrito.

Café Azteca. 19 Lord Edward St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 670 9479, azteca.ie FEIJODA

Brazil is renowned for its beautiful football, but they’re no slouches in the kitchen department either. Lurking with considerable intent on one of the city centre’s busiest food streets – the Greek across the road, Acropolis, is also a mustvisit – A Taste Of Brazil is where homesick expats go for their feijoada fix. Black beans, smoked pork, rice and roasted cassava flour combine to make a hearty stew that’s worthy of its national dish status.

Taste Of Brazil, 32 Parliament St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 675 9973, facebook.com/TasteOfBrazil

FOOD SOFT SHELL CRAB ROLL Tucked away down a quiet Ranelagh lane – there are people living there for years who don’t know it exists – Michie is the real Japanese deal with dishes you won’t find anywhere else in the capital. While big on meaty treats like seared kobe beef with shiitake mushrooms and teriyaki sauce, it’s the soft shell crab roll with spring onions, flying fish roe and avocado, which has exercising our chopstick fingers on a regular basis.

•DUBLIN’S BEST PIZZAS• Pacino’s Pizza

Michie Sushie, 11 Chelmsford Lane, Ranelagh, Dublin 6. Tel: (01) 497 6438, michiesushi.com RABBIT GNOCCHI Oh we do love to have a crush on a restaurant, and Terra Madre has had us swooming since it opened last year. A walk downstairs into this teeny restaurant will have you feeling like you’ve walked into an authentic Italian living-room. Charmingly imperfect in its décor and service, don’t go here for pizza, ’cos there’s none on the menu. Do go for the gnocchi, made with rabbit and the most divine tomato sauce: it’ll have you licking the bowl. Save room for one of there game-changer chocolate tarts after. Unlike us, you might want to practise restraint and not beg them if you can move in.

Terra Madre Restaurant, 13A Bachelors Walk, Dublin 1 ELOTES

Mexican got a new name in Dublin with the arrival of 777. It’s the real deal with none of your burritomacfajito on the menu. Achingly cool, and rammed with hipsters since it opened, you’ll be hardpressed to get a table at the weekend. But for this dish alone, it is worth waiting. Elotes: Mexican style street corn, queso pasilla, salt and lime is how it is described on the menu. Oh dear lord, it’s charred, cheesy goodness melted onto the beautiful tender sweetcorn turned us completely and had us wondering why we had dismissed sweetcorn as nothing more than cold cans of Green Giant from student cupboards. We heart Elotes.

777 Restaurant, 7 Castle House, South Great Georges St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 425 4052, 777.ie APRICOT AND WALNUT STUFFING

Now there are numerous great things on the Exchequer menu – including the warm salad of spiced roast pumpkin with five mile goat’s cheese, toasted pumpkin seeds, sweet onions with a semi-dried tomato dressing and rocket that the Hot Press editor favours when he drops in for lunch. And the Pork Belly Bites are very popular with us. However, the consensus is

PACINO’S 18 Suffolk St., Dublin 2, 01 677 5651 Tel: (01) 677 5651, pacinos.ie Reasonably priced, good quality pizza and a cold beer are a classic crowd pleasing combo. You’ll find both just off Grafton Street. Check out the Michelangelo pizza, an artistic mix of spicy pepperoni, carmelised red onions, goats cheese, a basil pesto and parmesan shavings. There is an early bird menu here and you can also enjoy a late dinner on Friday or Saturday with the venue open till 2.30am.

PAULIE’S PIZZA 58, Upper Grand Canal Street, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 664 3658, juniors.ie/paulies-pizza A relative newbie to the scene, Paulie’s has an enviable reputation of bringing the tasty to a quiet corner of Ballsbridge. They use slow proved dough and a wood fired oven that cooks at over 450 degrees to ensure your pizza has an authentic Neapolitan taste. Check out their New York style toppings, their Hero pizza with parma ham, pepperoni, salami, red peppers, rocket and smoked mozzarella is a meaty favourite.

INDEPENDENT PIZZA CO. 28 Lower Drumcondra Road, Dublin 9 Tel: (01) 830 2044 A sister venue to the Gotham Café on South Anne St., this small pizzeria is well known to visitors to nearby Croke Park. They specialise in taking a standard pizza base and then layering it up with unusual combinations to create a meal less ordinary. We’re big fans of the Texas Chicken pizza, an 11-inch creation laden with honey-marinated chicken, roasted onion, green pepper, mozzarella and creme fraiche. A cross-culture mash-up of influences worthy of being devoured.

DAVE’S WOOD-FIRED PIZZA CO. 4 South Georges St., Dublin 2 Tel: 086 772 4744, daveswood-firedpizzas.ie The Neapolitans did not design pizza to have spurious toppings on them – there are those who believe it should be a criminal offence to let pineapple anywhere near a thin base – and so it is at Dave’s Wood-Fired Pizza where the margherita is tomato, mozzarella and basil simplicity personified. A festival favourite that’s now put down roots in the city centre – it’s but yards from the very fine Stag’s Head – Dave’s is the epitome of fast food heaven, with pizzas taking just a minute to cook in their specially imported Italian ovens.

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FOOD that his secret recipe stuffing is the stuff of Sunday roast dreams. Made with apricots, walnuts and sage (and we suspect a heck of a lot of butter – yum), this is the kind of thing you’d write home about. Twice. Only available on Sundays, the staff say that it’s so popular even people who aren’t ordering the roast of the day will ask for a portion on the side. (Read – us). And with something this good, we can see why. If Carlsberg made stuffing, this would probably be it.

The Exchequer, 3 – 5 Exchequer St., Dublin 2. Tel. (01) 670 6787, theexchequer.ie CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ We would like to start the ‘Pâté Anonymous’ group please. Their pâté has become a veritable obsession since first tasted, in the seductively gorgeous Fallon & Byrne wine cellar, four years ago. They have a ‘secret’ ingredient it seems, and they aren’t telling what. They make it with love – with free range chicken livers, smoked bacon and a whole lot of deliciousness. It is okay to forgo dinner to buy some from the food hall and enjoy with a baguette, isn’t it? Join us, 7.30pm in a city centre community hall near you...

Fallon & Byrne, 11 – 17 Exchequer St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 472 1010, fallonandbyrne.com

SEARED SCALLOP, CRISPY PIG’S TAIL, CELERIAC & VEAL JUS There is a ‘Scallop Man’ in Arklow who supplies them to Alexis, when available, with the scallops so fresh they’re still ‘snapping’ upon entering the kitchen. Alan and Patrick O’Reilly opened this elegant spot in Dún Laoghaire in 2007. They didn’t get carried away with jacking up prices (read – respect) and do a set menu which is worth getting out of town for. Patrick says this seared scallop and crispy pig’s tail is a classic ‘surf and turf ’ combo, with the pig’s tail tempting the more adventurous diner. Trust us: if you haven’t tried their juicy scallops with a piggy tail, you haven’t lived.

Alexis, 17 – 18 Patrick’s St., Dun Laoghaire, Co. Dublin. Tel: (01) 280 8872, alexis.ie MINI PORK SAUSAGE ROLL

Apricot & Walnut Stufﬁng from The Exchequer, and Tomato & Mozzarella Gnocchi from Pichet

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You won’t be ordering this along with a jambon and a can of club orange of a Saturday breakfast: this, after all, is the poshest sausage roll in town. It comes as cute addition to the pork belly main course, or a sometime starter in chef Stephen McAllister’s very fine Nassau St. restaurant. He cares about ingredients and cleverly transforms the simple to the sublime. This is proper delicious pig, with fabulous buttery, crispy pastry that will transport you to a youthful place and have you wondering why the sausage rolls at your birthday parties never tasted quite this good?

FOOD

The Pig’s Ear, 4 Nassau St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 01 670 3865, thepigsear.ie FREE-RANGE ROTISSERIE HALF CHICKEN WITH CAESAR SALAD The power of this dish is that you want it before you even see the menu. Enter the doors of one of Avoca’s recent offshoots, Salt in Monkstown, and you will be thoroughly intoxicated with the smell of roast chicken from the brilliant poulet bonne femme, which people are lining up to bring home. The same delish chicken is what is used in the restaurant’s half-chicken dish, breast and leg, with a cheesy salty anchovy beaut of a Caesar salad. And with a helluva portion, you’ll be stuffed all day. I double dare you to go and not to order it.

Salt Café Avoca, Monkstown Crescent, Co. Dublin. Tel: (01) 202 0220, avoca.ie

(From top) Lobster Burger from Bite & Scallops, among the seafood treatsa at Les Frères Jaques

SAIGON NOODLES

POTATO GNOCCHI

The Saigon noodles are always the thing we spend 20 minutes trying not to order but inevitably do every time we are sitting in the dark and buzzy Saba. The waiter always sighs politely. Other delightful Thai dishes may tempt us, but we go back like a sorry lover to the delicious and well-spiced combination of light vermicelli noodles, juicy prawns, pork and egg ‘Vietnamese style’, and it always forgives. Tonight we will be Miss Saigon.

Pichet isn’t a hidden secret in Dublin. An instant success under the baton of maitre d Nick Munier, it’s been batting the crowds away since it’s opening – but they keep on coming back! Is there another restaurant that is rammed regularly on a Monday night? And you know why? Because the food is positively superb and the prices are accessible. One of the star attractions has always been head chef Stephen Gibson’s superb Potato Gnocchi, Marinated Mozzarella, Courgettes, Confit Tomato, Basil. It’s alternated between starter portion

Saba, 26 Clarendon St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 679 2002, sabadublin.com

and main course over the years, but it’s always been a hit. Put simply, it’s as good as the very best gnocchi you’ll taste in Italy. Combine this calibre of great food with consistently excellent service and it’s no wonder Pichet is one of the busiest places in town.

Pichet, Trinity St., Dublin 2: Tel: (01) 677 1060, pichetrestaurant.ie LOBSTER BURGER Ronan Ryan is one of the best frontmen in Irish restaurants, with a feel for how to make a place buzz. His new venture Bite confirms that he has his finger on

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• BEST CAFÉ • Dublin’s buzzing café culture has the ability to charm even the most sceptical of tourists, but while there’s no disputing that the Irish love a good cuppa, a handful of maverick baristas are offering a little bit extra. TAMP & STITCH Unit 3 Scarlet Row, Essex St. West, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 515 4705, Twitter: @Tampandstitch How’s about some retail therapy, a cup of high quality independently roasted coffee and a spot of people watching all in one sitting? This is precisely what the people behind Tamp & Stitch had in mind when they set up their boutique coffee shop on Scarlet Row. Located at the edge of Temple Bar, the minimal yet stylish spot brings two very important things to the masses; excellent coffee and beautiful clothes.

LENNOX CAFÉ BISTRO 31 Lennox St., Dublin 8 Tel: (01) 478 9966, lennoxcafe.ie This is the kind of place that every neighbourhood should have – a comfortable spot to hang out. Trendy couples and local office workers mingle during the week, families and local residents stream in at the weekend for a gossip, long lazy brunch or a coffee and a read of the papers. Visit on a Sunday and enjoy French toast with summer berries and vanilla ice cream (€8.95) or a divine eggs benedict with perfectly poached eggs, bacon and minty hollandaise sauce (€9.50). They also serve up more substantial fare like beef burgers, quesadillas and fish pie.

K.C. PEACHES Unit 10A Trinity Enterprise Centre, Pearse St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 0333, kcpeaches.com Sometimes it can be difficult to find a

happy medium between a casual bite to eat and a haute cuisine meal. Luckily for us Dubliners, we have K.C. Peaches. Incorporating healthy, restaurant standard food into a comfortable and casual café space, K.C.’s menu ranges from simple Caesar salad wraps to Indian beef curry. Meanwhile, their breakfast beverages are firm favourites with students, business folk, and tourists alike.

CLEMENT & PEKOE 50 South William St., Dublin 2 Tel: 087 637 0123, clementandpekoe.com Humans love nothing more than to sit around watching other humans, and in Dublin, Clement & Pekoe is the best place to do it. As well as boasting a killer view of the South William St. people parade, their Blackwater blend is some of the best coffee in town, pleasant to drink and always confined to the proper eight-ounce mug (no milky behemoths). The news is even better for tea lovers – they stock around 50 blends of the stuff.

TOWER SOUND BITES CAFÉ 6 – 8 Wicklow St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 671 3250, towerrecords.ie Tucked away on the first floor of one of Dublin’s favourite record stores, Tower Sound Bites Café is a crucial watering hole for the dusty-fingered music lover and a charming place to rest your feet when you’re all shopped out. From soup and sambo combos to cakes and quiches, this café combines excellent home-made food with a cool and quirky location. None of your overpriced java here; Sound Bites is known for serving great coffee with a mammy’s touch.

the pulse – celebrities and fans of good food alike have been flocking there. In the kitchen, chef Malcolm Starmer has a well-established reputation for coming up with innovative dishes and this particular creation is causing quite a stir. Only available on a Friday and Saturday, this fashionable addition to the menu has an enthusiastic fanclub. They take a half a lobster and place on a burger bun with pancetta and lettuce, tomato, raclette cheese, truffle aioli, pickled cumcumber and then cover with crispy onions. The dish is served with a portion of truffle and parmesan skinny fries. An unusual twist on a Dublin bay classic, it is one that others will soon be copying.

Bite, 29 South Frederick St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 679 7000, bitedublin.com HONEY AND LIME SOUFFLE

Olivier Meisonnave is the man behind Dax, a hugely successful fine dining establishment in a quiet spot on Pembroke Street. Popular with rock stars, politicians and locals who appreciate a fine glass of French wine, it offers innumerable delights – there is a great selection of fish, as well as classic French staples – but in terms of outstanding dishes, we particularly recommend you try one of their wonderful deserts: a positively brilliant Honey and Lime Soufflé. The delicately flavoured puffed-up confection is delivered to your table with suitable reverence by your waiter. You then have the opportunity to engage in one of the city’s great indulgences by single handedly devouring one of Dublin’s very best desserts. Soufflé flavours vary throughout the year but the standard is universally superb.

Dax, 23 Upper Pembroke St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 676 1494, dax.ie HOR MOK YANG

Many regulars rave about the cocktails or the live music, but the food remains the star of the show in what is one of Dublin’s grandest dining rooms. Thai food enthusiasts often point to the familiar chicken or lamb dishes when ordering here – we encourage you to take a more adventurous turn and order the grilled hake fillet, aka Hor Mok Yang (and, no, we haven’t tasted Hor Mok Yin). A favourite of critics, the fish is cooked in an aromatic curry sauce and served in a banana leaf. Just the right mix of flavour, presentation and heat to make this a winner.

Diep Le Shaker, 55 Pembroke Lane, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 661 1829, diep.net LOBSTER LAWYER

(Left) KC Peaches & a cappuchino from Tower Sound Bites Cafe

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Known as home to Dublin’s most stylish hotel, the Dylan, this classic Victorian building is filled with a riot of slightly Alice In Wonderland-tinged décor. It is

FOOD joyous experience, famous for its restorative qualities the lunchtime after the night before. A new alternate serving sees the core ingredients heaped on top of roasted sweet potato instead of bread and topped with garlic yoghurt. End your week with a taste sensation.

Honest To Goodness, 25 Market Arcade, George’s St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 633 7727, honesttogoodness.ie SLOW COOKED PORK BELLY

It is difficult to keep up with these guys. They offer three courses for €40 with the menu changing every week. They have some fine cheese suppliers and we’ve enjoyed excellent fish dishes here. But it is the pork belly dishes that are really outstanding, testament to the work of the chefs in the kitchen and the care and attention of farmers like Ivan Fitzpatrick in Wicklow who supply the pork. Last week we enjoyed slow cooked pork belly with potato, Clonakilty black pudding and black and red kale. Expect outstanding modern Irish cooking.

Mulberry Garden, Mulberry Lane, Donnybrook, Dublin 4. Tel: (01) 269 3300, mulberrygarden.ie TWELVE-HOUR SLOW ROAST PORK BBQ SANDWICH

A good sandwich can be hard to find. Odessa are doing an outrageously good selection for lunch for a mere €7. Our current favourite is a real beauty. Twelvehour BBQ slow roast pork served up on toaster batch bread with a generous dollop of tomato relish and some red onion compote. This comes with a healthy herb bean salsa on the side and is one of the great bargains in the city. (From top left) Sloppy Joe from Honest To Goodness & the Slow Roast Prk BBQ Sandwich from Odessa

also home to a restaurant boasting some fine, extremely well judged Irish cooking. In particular, we’d like to introduce you to the Lobster Lawyer, a local recipe said to have been a traditional component of long lunches for senior members of the legal profession (fellows who certainly know their food!). The dish – a half or whole lobster in a creamy white wine sauce with tomato and a liberal dash of whiskey – is a memorable indulgence that will have you hankering after it as soon as you’ve left the premises!

Dylan Restaurant, Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4. Tel: (01) 660 3000, dylan.ie/dublin-restaurants BEETROOT RAVIOLI It may be off the beaten track for many, but Harvey Nichols restaurant is one of the city’s best. From a vantage point overlooking the comings and goings at Dundrum Town Centre, it is possible to order one of Dublin’s best vegetarian

dishes. The large plates lunch menu is a short but perfectly formed selection based around seasonal produce. Beetroot can be a much maligned and under-rated ingredient. Here they use it’s vivid colour and taste to full effect with a generous portion of ravioli to compliment a goat’s cheese crotin.

Harvey Nichols, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 14. Tel: (01) 291 0488, harveynichols.com/dublin SLOPPY JOE Nonest To Goodness is one of daytime Dublin’s epicurean success stories and they have the Bridestone plaques to prove it. You know it’s Friday by spotting the queues of diners patiently waiting to place their order for the special of the day. The sloppy joe features spicy minced beef, two slices of tomato, some cheddar and mayonnaise piled between two slices of freshly baked tomato bread. It is a messy,

Odessa, 13 – 14 Dame Court, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 670 7634, odessa.ie/restaurant SPICED MEATBALLS

They are without a doubt one of the most popular fixtures on the burgeoning Dublin market circuit. As the name suggests they dish out Spanish rice based concoctions from Ballsbridge to Blanchardstown. Although we love their paella, we’re absolutely crazy about their Moorish spiced lamb meatballs, which comprise a very hearty lunch or dinner for €8. Pick yours up and join the party at any of the seven markets they currently visit. This is a dish that can hold its own against any restaurant fare in the city.

The Paella Guys. Web: facebook.com/thepaellaguys

BORLOTTI BEAN MINESTRONE It is a long time now since Dylan McGrath arrived on the Dublin scene, all fiery eyes and grand ambition. He won a Michelin star at Mint, but the premises was too small

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Overlooking the Liffey, it is hugely relaxed, friendly and atmospheric, delivering fantastic food at great prices. The menu is really smart, like a microcosm of what great Irish cooking should be about, with wonderful ingredients sources from artosan producers and cooked with a winning deftness. Their Fermanagh Black pig pork fillet wrapped in Ummera bacon is fantastic. But if we have to choose one, make it the Nicholson’s smoked haddock, poached in milk with onions and served with white cheddar mash. It would be difficult to come up with a more quintessentially Irish dish. Dublin rarely tastes this good.

Winding Stair, 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1. Tel: (01) 872 7320 winding-stair.com (From top) Smoked Haddock from the Winding Stair & Borlotti Bean Minestrone from Rustic Stone

for the vision. He’s starred in Masterchef alongside Nick Munier. And he is also the man behind the very successful Rustic Stone in George’s Street. The approach here is essentially simple: great ingredients cooked simply, often at the table. And it works. The energy and attention to detail that won him a following is still greatly in evidence. He has a diverse and edgy menu that is worth exploring. But here’s the clincher. You take an Italian classic and reimagine it – and the result is sensational with Borlotti Beans. The result

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is magnificently healthy but packs a big, rich flavour-punch. Make a booking!

Rustic Stone, 17 South Great George’s St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 01 707 9596 rusticstone.ie SMOKED HADDOCK

Like many Dubliners we are besotted with The Winding Stair, which Elaine Murphy has turned into a thriving success story. One of our most fascinating bookshops is coupled with one of the best restaurants in the country. You have to love that.

CARLINGFORD OYSTERS Lock’s Brasserie is a sister to the always excellent Pearl Brasserie on Merrion St. Located on the northside of the Grand Canal halfway between Portobello and Harold’s Cross bridges, Lock’s is a uniquely atmospheric place, which delivers food of great subtlety. But one of its signature dishes is the height of simplicity. A platter of Carlingford Oysters delivered to the table is an invitation to self-indulgence of a special kind. All of the classic somewhat carnal oyster pleasures are in evidence, but here the molluscs are served with a Vietnamese-style dressing that combines

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Crab saladi from Eden & Tiramisu from San Lorenzo’s

cucumber caviar, crispy shallots and coriander. It is mind-blowingly good, the perfect start to a meal that – in Lock’s – will always be big on fascinating combinations. They do a brilliant pork belly, a fine assiette of lamb and an excellentt selection of fish. But for aficionados, the oysters are the thing...

Lock’s Brasserie, 1 Windsor Terrace, Portobello, Dublin 8. Tel: (01) 420 0555 locksbrasserie.com

TIRAMISU The first time you have tiramisu – it means ‘pick me up’ – is something you remember for the rest of your life. At its best, the combination of marscapone, eggs, sugar, cocoa, espresso coffee, sponge fingers (or a similar cake that has the capacity to soak) and licquor – marsala wine, Amaretto, dark rum and cognac are all used – is supremely, divinely decadent. But there are a lot of mediocre tiramisus out there. And so, for devotees, the search for a great one takes on the character of a mission. Well, where Dublin is concerned, the search is over. Under the guiding hand of Temple Garner, San Lorenzo’s make a stonking great tiramisu, with a fantastic caramel coffee sweetness and creaminess, that’s right up there with the best you’ll find in Siena or wherever it was in Italy that the dish originated. San Lorenzo’s, of course, does a lot of great dishes, loosely in a New York Italian style and using seasonal produce superbly – but this is the archetypal apex. Go for a slap-up treat, and finish with this... San Lorenzo’s, South Great George’s St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 478 9383, sanlorenzos.ie CRAB SALAD There are dishes that a restaurant daren’t drop from their menus. The Castletownbare crab salad at Eden is one of those. It’s been an Eden staple for as long as we remember – and for very good reason. It looks great on the plate for a start, the shreds of crab heaped into a round tower, shredded greens on top. Beetroot is one of the great Irish vegetables that just happens also to be very good for you. It works brilliantly with fish. The wasabi caviar adds a bit of bite.

But it is the curried aioli which gives the dish its raison d’etre. It is a simple trick but hugely successful here, the mild spiciness complimenting the sweetness of the crab perfectly.

Eden, Meeting House Square, Temple Bar, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 670 5372, eden@edenrestaurant.ie

SOY GARLIC CHICKEN This, the first of Joe Macken’s Dublin pop-ups, has become a proper, grown-up restaurant with its own home on Dame St. There are several flavours of chicken, but the soy garlic is the one you’ll keep coming back for. It’s sweet, it’s tangy and it’s seriously addictive chicken. Pay no heed to the hip servers, get stuck in with your bare hands. CrackBIRD, 60 Dame St., Dublin 2. crackbird.joburger.ie CALI CARNITAS BURRITO There are numerous burrito places in Dublin these days, but Señor Pablo bows to no one when it comes to flavour. The beef and chicken staples are good, but next time, give the pulled pork a go. The perspirationinducing level three salsa may not be to everybody’s taste though, so check out the more forgiving level two. Pablo Picante, 131 Baggot St. Lower, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 662 9773, pablopicante.ie BIBIMBAP Kimchi is a word that strikes fear into the heart of even the most adventurous eater. It refers to a process of fermentation used for centuries in Korea to preserve vegetables. In this case, Kim Chi is a restaurant on Parnell St. and bibimbap one of the specialities of the house. Translated from the Korean as ‘mixed meal’, this is not for those of you who like your food served in ready-to-eat format. A little elbow-grease is required to mix together the warm rice, sautéed vegetables, chilli pepper paste, beef and raw egg, but the compensation is more than adequate. This is great ethnic food with a real kick. Kim Chi, 160 Parnell St., Dublin 1. Tel: (01) 872 8318, hophouse.ie

WAGYU WITH BONE MARROW FRITTERS It may be located in a quietly elegant Georgian hosse, a long way from the city in Malahide, but that doesn’t diminish the cross-county appeal of Bon Appetit one iota. There are three restaurants in one, going from casual dining to the dizzy heights of Michelin-starred cuisine. While the latter is as good as cooking gets in Ireland, chef proprietor Oliver Dunne’s latest innovation is currently of special interest. In La Brasserie, he has recently created a bovine menu, offering the ultimate in carnivorous consumption, a selection of the finest steaks available. We tried the Grade 9 Wagyu, a succulent, buttery fillet, served with bone marrow crisps. This is brilliant stuff – a classic modern instance of getting the most out of every part of the animal. Bon Appétit, Malahide Village, Co. Dublin. Tel: (01) 845 0314, bonappetit.ie SUMMER IN A JAR Tucked away on a side street off Camden St., Padraic Hayden operates what may be one of the city’s best-kept secrets. Taking ‘locally sourced’ literally, the elderflowers used for the sorbet and jelly in this dessert come from his parents garden in Enniskerry, and the strawberries come from down the road in Wexford. A greal dish in a great little place. Camden Kitchen, 3 Camden Market, Grantham St., Dublin 8. Tel: (01) 476 0125, camdenkitchen.ie PO PIA SOT For many years, we on the Northside had to make do with the regular run of bad Chinese takeaways for that ‘authentic taste of the Orient’. Well, no more. Camile Thai has recently launched in Phiibsboro and for the truly lazy, offers an online ordering service. Try the Po Pia Sot, rice paper rolls filled with steamed salmon, fresh mint, beansprouts ginger and wasabi mayonnaise. Go on, just do it. Camile Thai, 7 Phibsborough Road, Dublin 7. Tel: (01) 850 0111, camile.ie 055

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•SPECIALITIES OF THE HOUSES• From yummy omelettes to scrumptious ice-cream, in Dublin a treat for the taste-buds lurks around every corner. BEST ICE-CREAM Hailing from Dingle, Co. Kerry, icecream lovers Kieran and Sean Murphy opened their doors in 2000 with the aim of creating the best ice-cream in the world. Ten years on, the pair arrived in Dublin to bring us their offerings, which include unique and delicious flavours like balsamic and brown-bread. We especially love the combination of sea salt and caramel, but if you’re not up to trying the more adventurous options, the classics such as vanilla and strawberry are just as mouth-watering. Murphys Ice-Cream, 27 Wicklow St., Dublin 2. Tel: 086 031 0726, murphysicecream.ie BEST CREPES Fun, fresh and funky – it’s hard to believe it’s over ten years since Lemon first opened its South William St. emporium, which re-introduced the city centre to the multipurpose hunger solution that is the crepe. Perfect for breakfast (anytime of day), a lunchtime grab ‘n’ go or an afternoon treat (you can make any kids light up with the suggestion!) the Lemon ones are as good as they come in either of their (just off Grafton St.) restaurants. The ‘Lemon Breakfast’ (pictured) has a mouth-watering combo of eggs, rashers, sausages and melted cheddar within the crepe, but you can keep it simple with the traditional (lemon, butter and sugar), or sweet with a chocolate and ice-cream, and be well looked after. Don’t forget to order a quality coffee too - Lemon is one of the few places you can get a cortado as well as a macchiato. Lemon Crepe & Coffee Co., 60 Dawson St. & 66 South William St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 672 8898 (Dawson St.), (01) 672 9044 (South William St.), lemonco.com BEST PRE-CONCERT Armed with a comfy terrace and decked out with a spectacular array of wines starting at €10, the wine rooms has become a popular hangout for gig goers before heading to the O2 or the Aviva. Their restaurant menu offers a wide range – sea bass, duck breast and more unusually grilled kangaroo reflecting chef James Ainscough’s Australian roots. They will soon be offering glasses of vintage champagne for as little as €5 so this makes

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and excellent location to sample the rock n roll lifestyle before going to see your favourite act.

Dublin Wine Rooms, Custom House Square, I.F.S.C., Dublin 1. Tel: (01) 636 0616, dublinwinerooms.com

BEST PIE With the greatest respect to the beef & Guinness, slow roast lamb & fresh mint, chicken, mushroom & Jameson and salmon, cod & smoked haddock varieties, it’s the pork & granny smith pie which has taking up squatter’s rights in the Pieman Café, a Temple Bar gem that also does great salads and hot sarnies. Of course, a pie isn’t a pie without mash, mushy peas and enough gravy to drown in. The Pieman, 14A Crown Alley, Temple Bar, Dublin 2. Tel. 085 781 7321, thepieman.ie BEST VEGETARIAN With over 25 years under it’s belt and an array of awards an accolades, vegetarians and vegans alike have made this restaurant a landmark in terms of healthy eating in Dublin. With an emphasis on local and organic produce, Cornucopia manages to provide a wide variety of wholesome healthy yet delicious meals. For a light feed we would recommend the sweet potato,. butterbean and roast garlic soup. For something more substantial, try the potato, leek and courgette gratin baked in roast pepper and goats’ cheese cream with a pumkin sees and basil crust. Vegetarian has never tasted so good... Cornucopia, 19 – 20 Wicklow St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 677 7583, cornucopia.ie

BEST TAPAS The proliferation of tapas menus across Dublin can be partially attributed to the success of the Port House restaurants on South William St. and Eustace St. Their menu of cured meats, cheeses and more adventurous offerings is a firm favourite for Dubliners indulging in a gossip with friends or a romantic date. Recently they’ve converted an old building at Dundrum Town Centre into a modern Basque bonanza of wines, ports and tasty bites. Try the seared foie gras served on toast with apple and a Pedro Ximenez reduction (€4.95) or the chargrilled Navarran chorizo sausages (€4.25) Port House, (01) 677 0298 (64 South William St.) & (01) 672 8590 Pinxto, 12 Eustace St., Dublin 2, porthouse.ie BEST COFFEE The name will be familiar to those who pass through Docklands or who have wandered around festivals in search of their caffeine fix. The nifty Italian Coffee Angel units provide a steady supply of kick ass coffee and have won a barrage of awards for their efforts. Our favourite Coffee Angel is at Sean O’Casey bridge where we are partial to pick up a latte on the go from one of their smiling baristas. Look out for a new Coffee Angel shop opening in the city centre later in the year. Coffee Angel, coffeeangel.com BEST PRE-THEATRE This bistro has become a firm favourite on Talbot St., attracting local shoppers and workers in for lunch and dinner with an ambitious but competitively priced menu. In their own words, they offer “French food for feck all.” The proximity to the Gate and the Abbey makes this an ideal choice for a bite to eat before catching a show and their pre-theatre menu offers two courses for €22 or three courses for €25. Speedy service helps ensure you’ll be in time for curtains-up. Their whole grilled sardines, braised shoulder of pork and homemade banoffee pie will sustain you through the best, or the worst, of performances. Le Bon Crubeen, 82 Talbot St., Dublin 1. Tel: (01) 704 0126, leboncrubeen.ie

FOOD CELERIAC BAKED IN SALT AND RYE Chef Mickael Viljanen made his reputation with Grogan’s Castle in Clare. His move to Dublin caused a huge flurry of excitement, particularly when it was revealed that he was teaming up with One Pico’sEamon O’Reily in a venture in what had been Bleu in Dawson Street. Well, the results have been as good as the promise. Posirive reviews have flooded in, with Michelin star seeming almost inevitable, if there is any justice. They do a fantastic tasting menu, during the course of which there are numerous highlights. Hugely original is the long-named Celeriac Baked iin Salt & Rye, Skeaghanore Duck Hearts, Truffle, Milk Solids, Hazel Nut Sorbet. Well, if the ingredients are in it, why not let us know? This is a magnificent, adventurous taste sensation, with the assertive but perfectly measured use of truffle winning the Best of Dublin’s enthusiastic stamp of approval. A restaurant experience not to be missed...

The Green House, JoshuaHouse, Dawson Street, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 676 7015

An example of one of the many burgers available at Jo’Burger

IKQEZI BURGER A truly crazy blend of meat patty (beef or lamb), caramelised chilli, banana and goats cheese, the Ikqezi burger has to be eaten to be believed. Joe Macken will never be accused of being conformist when it comes to food, as is evidenced by the other wacky creations on his latest menu, but for total ‘out-thereness’. Probably not coincidental that its African name sounds a bit like ‘crazy’. Jo’Burger, Castle Market, Dublin 2. Web: joburger.ie COORG KI PORK CHAMP Chef Sunil Ghai has always been an adventurer, both in and out of the kitchen, and spends a lot of his time traveling throughout India in search of new and exciting flavours for his menus. You’ll note the word ‘champ’ in the description of this dish, but it’s not of the potato variety. The

marinated, grilled pork chops are served with an apple and cabbage mix and a glorious vindaloo sauce. The presentation is perfect and it can only be a matter of time before the Michelin man comes calling.

Ananda, 4 Sandyford Radd, Kilmacud, Dublin 16. Tel: (01) 296 0099, anandarestaurant.ie

DRY FRIED DUCK The Sichuan House restaurant is located on Parnell St. and my be found by seeking out the ‘Mitsubishi Motors’ sign that still hangs above its door. It’s not plush and it’s no longer cheap, but the food is as authentically Chinese as any to be found in Dublin, only moreso! The duck comes on a platter, bones and all, but it’s the mix of dried chillies and little Sichuan peppercorns that make every mouthful of this dish a taste sensation. Sichuan House, 100 Parnell St., Dublin 1. Tel: (01) 878 3400

BLACK CHERRY AND VANILLA PARFAIT Chapter One is one of Dublin’s best loved restaurants. Under the direction of Ross Lewis and Martin Corbett, it has set standards for unstuffy, fine, Michelinstarred dining. The ultimate experience may be at Ross Leewis’ Chef ’s Table – but the truth is that it doesn’t matter where you are, the food is always as good. This is modern cuisine, built on the foundations of grea, classic cooking. If there is one dish that says, Muhamed Ali-style ‘I am the greatest’ it sits quietly among the desserts. We are swooning about the Black Cherry and Vanilla Parfait with Fresh Cherries, Caramelised Pistachio and White Chocolate, Earl Grey Tea Ice Cream. If modern chef-ery is about great taste combinations then this is a masterclass. Eat it and die... Chapter One, 18-19 Parnell Square, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 873 2266 DUCK CONFIT Our feather-waggling friends have been subjected to some terrible indignities by Dublin restaurants, but the Paris Bakery’s Duck Confit couldn’t be any more perfectly rendered with the skin super-crisp and the pinky brown meat beneath as tender as a Leonard Cohen love song. Yannick G. Forel’s very fine establishment has added Gallic flair to an area more renowned for its butchers, fruit sellers and ethnic shops than it is fine French cuisine. The Paris Bakery, 18 Moore St., Dublin 1. Tel: (01) 804 4112, parisbakery.ie

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FO OD Angela Scanlon admires a selection of treats from Johnnie Cupcakes

•B E S T CU PC AKES• JOHNNIE CUPCAKES St. Stephen’s Green, Ilac Centre, Liffey Valley Tel: (041) 982 5758,.johnniecupcakes.ie These guys have a reputation as specialists in the spectacular. You can pick out a tray of delicious cupcakes lathered in icing, all of a uniformly high standard, but their range of made-to-order giant cupcakes are on another level. Popular for weddings or parties, they look almost too pretty to eat. Almost. Find them at three locations across the city or check them out online.

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LOLLY & COOKS George’s St. Arcade, Merrion St., Dublin 2 Tel: 087 943 0349 (George’s St.), (01) 662 4313 (Merrion St.), lollyandcooks.com

JENNIE’S BAKE SHOP Tower Tea Rooms Killiney, Botticelli Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 087 655 6592, jenniesbakeshop.com

A cupcake range with a loyal and devoted following. Choose from full-size and mini varieties and a plethora of delicious flavours like fresh strawberries and cream. It’s difficult to walk past their George’s St. Arcade and Merrion St. locations without stopping by. This little local business takes pride in delivering ‘real’ food. All their products are handmade freshly each day with locally-sourced ingredients. What’s more, they add no artificial additives or flavours. Guilt-free feel-good cupcakes.

A new local business based in Castleknock and Blanchardstown selling cakes online and in cafés and markets. We’re particularly keen on Jennie’s 99, a cupcake topped with a dollop of vanilla icing with a chocolate flake in it to resemble an ice cream cone. On the website you can choose to order six large or 12 mini versions of your favourite cupcake recipe.

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PHOTO: COLM HENRY

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BREW SENSATIONS

Messrs Maguires

here are few things in life more perfect than a warm summer’s day accompanied by an ice-cold beer. As you sit back and savour the crisp refreshing taste and watch the bubbles of condensation bead your glass, all your worries evaporate and the world seems a beautiful place. This being Dublin, we’re not stuck for pubs or off-licences – we have more than an abundance of both. Now I am fond of beer, and I’m sure you are too, or you wouldn’t be reading this. But I like a bit of

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variety. Without doing any disservice to the popular brands, it is a bit dull being offered the same four or five options in every other pub. There are a number of great microbreweries in Ireland and thousands of excellent ales, lagers and stouts are brewed around the world. Seems silly to stick with the big name market leaders all the time. Dublin’s pub owners have been cottoning on to this for a while and the fact that is getting easier to find foreign and craft beers in the off-licence and the pub is a welcome change. Committed fans of craft beer should

get themselves down to the Irish Craft Beer Festival which is coming to the R.D.S. between September 7 and 9. Now an annual event, the festival features a number of independent Irish brewers including O’Hara’s, Carrig, the Dingle Brewing Company, Messrs Maguire, Trouble Brewing and the of course, the Porterhouse. The Porterhouse is Ireland’s best-known and largest independent brewery and is practically an institution at this stage, being one of the few pub chains that both locals and tourists and the young and the old

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The Porterhouse

L Mulligan Grocer

Anne Sexton takes a look at the best bars in Dublin in which to sample the wonderful array of specialist beers currently on the market, and also offers a guide to the finest off-licences in the city.

O’Hara’s – the perfect pint?

Dingle Brewing

Against The Grain

frequent in large numbers. Since opening The Porterhouse has spread beyond the capital to far-flung places such as London, New York and, er, Bray. In Dublin city, The Porterhouse has three outlets - The Porterhouse Temple Bar (the original premises, opened in 1996, on Parliament Street), The Porterhouse Central (on Nassau Street) and The Porterhouse North (on Cross Guns Bridge, Glasnevin). As well as their own ales, stouts and lagers, The Porterhouse has a serious selection of craft, foreign and speciality beers. Temple Brau is their best selling beer and their Plain Porter is an award-winning stout. All this – and a great menu that goes above and beyond the needs of ‘soakage’ too. Another oldie but goodie is the Bull & Castle near Christchurch, which stocks a variety of Irish craft beer. You can have a quiet drink and a meal downstairs or join the good-natured rowdiness in the beer hall upstairs, especially if there is a match on. Messrs Maguire on Burgh Quay is one of the few pubs where the beer is brewed on the premises. This happens downstairs in the aptly named Brewery Bar. Messrs does a ‘Beer of the Season’ and their Bock is an award-winning brew,

bagging the Best Overall Beer award at the Independent Irish and Whiskey Festival in 2009. The folks that brought us Against The Grain have been taking over Dublin by stealth, opening specialist beer pubs across the capital and changing people’s palates. This is a good thing given that it is almost impossible to get a seat in the original Wexford Street bar, as after 9pm it is crammed with students, hipsters and beer lovers. The Black Sheep on Capel St. and The Brew Dock on Amiens St. are both welcome additions to the inner city. All three offer a wide range of craft beers as well as draught and bottled beers from several different breweries. If you are not fortunate enough to be nearby, L. Mulligan Grocer in Stoneybatter is well worth the Luas trip to get there. Regarded as a gem by locals and beer lovers alike, L. Mulligan has an excellent range of Irish craft beer available in draught or bottled, and they have over one hundred imported beers too, not to mention some seriously tasty, well-priced food. You don’t necessarily need to visit a specialist pub to get an interesting beer. There are a number of other pubs with at least a few lagers or ales on the menu. The Bank on College

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BEE R Green has O’Hara’s and Galway Hooker, The Ginger Man on Fenian St. stocks Rebel Red and Rebel Lager, O’Neill on Suffolk St. stock the ranges from Trouble Brewing and Eight Degrees, and the Metalman Brewing company supplies regularly to Bar Forty Four in Swords to name a few. An excellent resource for finding your favourite Irish craft beer is Beoir.org, which lists which pubs and restaurants across the country stock local or foreign craft beers either on tap or in bottles. Of course you can’t spend your life in the pub, even if you are sampling new beers. Moderation in everything! On a hot summer’s day you’d probably prefer to be outside and sadly the best places to get craft

beer are not necessarily the pubs with large outdoor areas. That’s where a good offy comes in handy. A great number of Dublin off-licences have improved their beer ranges in the last few years, reflecting the diverse tastes of the city’s beer aficionados, but a few deserve special mention. McHugh’s on Malahide Road seems to have the beer category sewn up in the National Off-Licence of the Year awards. They’ve been winning it steadily for numerous years. The Kilbarrack Road branch is regarded as excellent as well. No matter where you are in the city there is a decent off-licence with a good selection of beers and ales near you. Redmonds of

Ranelagh, The Drink Store in Stoneybatter, O’Neill’s on the South Circular Road, Deveney’s of Dundrum, and Hollands of Bray all stock a large range of beers and ales; and although the name wouldn’t give it away, Lilac Wines in Dublin 3 has a good selection as well. If you have the time then there is nothing craftier than your own home brew. You can get everything you need from online stores such as MyBeerAndWine.ie and Homebrew.ie. The quality of the final result depends on the ingredients, your skill and a bit of luck. Chances are you are probably not going to brew an award winner in your kitchen, but you never know!

•LICENSED TO THRILL• We’ve found the Dublin off-licenses with the most impressive selection of wines, beers and spirits coupled with friendly service. Next time you are preparing for a dinner, en route to a gaff party or restocking the drinks cabinet, be sure to visit one of these shops. CELTIC WHISKEY SHOP 27 – 28 Dawson St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 675 9744, celticwhiskeyshop.com

This city centre institution is popular with tourists looking to stock up on Irish whiskey and locals keen to try something new. In addition to the huge variety of whiskies, the Celtic Whiskey Shop carries an impressive array of craft beers and spirits from around the world.

LILAC WINES 117 Philipsburg Avenue, Dublin 3 Twitter: @lilacwines

The name suggests wine, and wine they have by the plenty, but Lilac Wines also has an excellent range of craft and specialist beers as well as spirits. A nice touch is the small selection of meats and cheeses – perfect nibbles for your tipples.

McHUGHʼS 25E Malahide Road, Dublin 5 Tel: (01) 839 4692, mchughs.ie

McHugh’s have won several awards for their selection of beers and their knowledgeable staff. This is the off-licence to frequent if you love ales, stouts, lagers and porter, but they have an excellent range of wines and spirits too.

OʼBRIENS WINES Branches across the city www.obrienswine.ie

With 19 outlets in Dublin alone, O’Brien’s is clearly the giant in non-supermarket Irish wine sales. They do a great job in managing their supremacy too, offering an excellent mix of wines they import themselves – the brilliant Chilean Coyam, a blend of Syrah, Camenere, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre and

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Petit Verdot from the Emiliana winery is a stunning example, under the €20 mark – with very well selected superior popular brands. There are always wines on special promotion, with substantial discounts on offer. The staff are knowledgeable and happy to pass on tips and recommendations. They also have a loyalty card scheme that delivers further savings to regular customers.

Tel: (01) 453 6793

REDMONDS OF RANELAGH 25 Ranelagh Road, Dublin 6 Tel: (01) 496 0552, redmondsofranelagh.com

Almost every year Gibney’s seems to add an award to their huge stockpile. Voted ‘Wine Specialist of the Year’ for 2012, Gibneys offers, as you’d guess, a great selection of wines. They also run regular wine classes for those who’d like to brush up on their knowledge of the grape.

This family run, busy, award-winning off-licence is one of the best on the southside for beer aficionados, and also stocks a fantastic variety of wines from all over the world, with lots of original imports, as well as champagne and spirits.

THE DRINK STORE 87 Manor St., Stoneybatter, Dublin 7 Tel: (01) 671 9760, drinkstore.ie

No-one could accuse the Drink Store of not being adventurous with its selection. This off-licence stocks the unusual, the interesting and the hard to get hold of. Even better, you can order online and have your purchases delivered.

OʼNEILLʼS 184 South Circular Road, Dublin 8

Situated opposite Griffith College, O’Neill’s is a favourite with students for its great range of beers and ciders and its specials. What’s more, you can pick up a packet of biccies and a pint of milk along with your tipple.

GIBNEYS New St., Malahide, Co. Dublin Tel: (01) 845 0606, gibneys. com

THE CORKSCREW 4 Chatham St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 674 5731

As the name suggests, this place is all about the wine. They have a brilliant selection from al over the world. You’ll fine stuff here that no one else stocks, making it great for browsing. They do wine tasting events and advise on cellar management! They have an award-winning website that enables you to browse and order online but we recommend getting in there and picking up all of those lovely bottles to pore over.

KIP CARROLL

my DUBL IN

The Iveagh Gardens & (below) The Asia Market on Dury St.

ROSANNA DAVISON MODEL & FORMER MISS WORLD What do you like best about Dublin? Above all, I love its history, the Georgian architecture, its familiarity and its easy accessibility by foot. Best outdoors place? Any one of the beautifully-kept city centre parks which Dublin is so lucky to have. Though I do have a particular soft spot for the Iveagh Gardens. Dublin’s best restaurant? That’s definitely a matter of personal taste, but names like Chapter One and Pichet spring to mind. I also love Rasam in Glasthule for the best Indian food in Dublin. Dublin’s best bar? At the moment, I really like 37 Dawson St. Great atmosphere, cocktails and decor. Think Alice in Wonderland meets deepest tribal Africa! Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? I love to potter around the Asia market on Drury St. for inspiration, and my local organic fruit and veg shop for fresh produce. Where do you shop for clothes? For everyday basics I go to Zara, H&M and Penneys, for shoes I like Brown Thomas, and

for glam evening wear I love Coco Boutique, Dawn Fitzgerald Atelier and Couture Boutique. Dublin needs more? Good weather! It’s the most beautiful city, populated with happy, positive people when the sun is shining. Dublin needs less? Doom and gloom. Favourite Dublin building? Christchurch Cathedral. Your Dublin music? The buskers and musicians on Grafton St., especially around Christmas time. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? I love the quirky eateries and shops around the South William St. , Wicklow St. and Exchequer St. area. Your Dublin hero? Each and every individual who works hard to make Dublin the wonderful city it is today! When you’re with friends in Dublin what do you like to do? Cosy up in the corner of a traditional pub for pints and chats, especially on a cold winter afternoon. We’re also partial to a spot of dancing in one of the many Dublin nightclubs!

“I love the buskers and musicians on Grafton St., especially around Christmas time.”

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DUBLIN’S BEST BARS The International Bar

Dublin is home to the kind of pubs that can’t be built, they evolve over time. New or old, they are greater than the sum of their parts. They provide a destination for conspiratorial chats, quiet contemplation or wild abandon. Filled with music, divilment, laughter agus craic, here are the very best that Dublin has to offer. WORDS: PHOTOS:

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Nadene Ryan Marit Ehmke & Katie Stenson

GROGANʼS 15 South William St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 9320, groganspub.ie Grogan’s has long been a popular Dublin haunt, known for its great Guinness, friendly atmosphere and the tasty cheese and ham toasties that are served all day and night. Like a piece of the countryside nestled in Dublin’s most cosmopolitan area, you’ll never feel too far from home when you’re having a pint in Grogans. THE INTERNATIONAL BAR 23 Wicklow St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 9250, international-bar.com With regular trad sessions as well as theatre, poetry and songwriting evenings, the International Bar is something of a creative hub for the artistic-minded, and the popular live comedy nights have drawn our very own Tommy Tiernan, Ardal O’Hanlon and Dara O Briain to their Comedy Cellar for impromptu sets. THE LOTTS 9 Lower Liffey St., Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 872 7669, thelottscafebar.com Instantly recognisable for the caricatures of Irish legends that grace its windows, the Lotts might be one of the friendliest pubs

in the city. With a homely atmosphere and delicious, affordable food (their Lunch For Locals menu is a firm favourite with D1 bargain-hunters) it’s the perfect place for a cosy afternoon pint. Sports fans are also well catered for with football, rugby and more shown on the big screens.

ANSEO 18 Lower Camden St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 475 1321 Originally Con’s Pub, Anseo has been transformed from oul fella hangout to quirky drinkery and it’s now famed for eclectic tunes and seasoned surroundings. The first port of call for thrill-seeking creative types, Anseo also hosts weekly stand-up comedy sessions. MULLIGANʼS 8 Poolbeg St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 5582 A popular watering hole since 1854, when John Mulligan leased the pub for the equivalent of €20 a month, Mulligan’s is world-renowned as one of the vivid venues that appears in Joyce’s Dubliners. Dockers made up a large part of the clientele back in the day, as boats were able to moor in the deep water nearby. For

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COC K TAIL O’CLOCK Where to find the capital’s best concoctions... over 150 years, it’s managed to maintain its lively atmosphere and old world charm.

SIN É 14 – 15 Upper Ormond Quay, Dublin 7 Tel: (01) 878 7078 Ormond Quay’s rockcentric late bar is a lively hub by the Liffey, boasting plenty of space to shake your tail feather, with two dance floors – one upstairs and one downstairs. Rest assured that you won’t leave Sin É without hearing a song you haven’t heard in aeons or meeting someone with whom to share some hearty smoking area banter. PETERʼS PUB 1 Johnson’s Place, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 679 3347, peterspub.ie A remarkably peaceful spot amongst the hustle and bustle of the trendy St. Stephen’s Green and South William St. area, Peter’s Pub is ideal for those seeking solace from the rapid pace of city life. A cosy little bar with oodles of character and a handful of intimate nooks and crannies, it’s well-suited to those seeking a quiet chat and a glass of well-aged whiskey. THE COBBLESTONE 77 Kings St. North, Smithfield, Dublin 7 Tel: (01) 872 1799, cobblestonepub.ie If you ask any Dubliner’s advice on where to find a good trad session, you’ll almost certainly be pointed in the direction of the Cobblestone, which hosts live music seven nights a week. The décor has all the charm and rustic elegance of a country pub. There’s an openness and friendliness to the Cobblestone, which is frequented by a mix of locals and the growing number of twenty and thirtysomethings who live in the Smithfield and Stoneybatter areas.

Grogan’s

FRANK RYANʼS Queen St., Dublin 7 Tel: (01) 872 5204, frankryans.com A great old blues bar with keg-loads of character, Frank Ryan’s is a vintage pub with a vintage following. Expect to hear Ol’ Blue Eyes on the stereo and some quick-shooting repartee from the bar staff. A neighbour of the ultra-hip Dice Bar, it’s also worth a look for the music memorabilia that lines its walls. DICE BAR Queen St., Dublin 7 Tel: (01) 872 8622 An Irish twist on the classic New York dive bar format, Smithfield’s Dice Bar is a firm favourite with metalheads, rockabilly fans and rock ‘n’ rollers alike. Boasting an eclectic playlist of time-honoured rock and pop, this deliciously quirky spot is known for friendly staff, all-embracing clientele and a drinks menu as long as your arm, which includes a handful of mouthwatering chocolate stouts. THE BANK ON COLLEGE GREEN 20 College Green, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 0677 Once the main hall of 17th century savings and loan Belfast Bank, The Bank on College Green is beautifully presented to this day, housing a fine stained glass ceiling and mosaic tiled floors. Voted Hospitality Ireland’s ‘Bar of the Year 2011’, it’s the perfect place to enjoy a meal with a tipple in luxurious surroundings. THE PORTERHOUSE 16 Parliament St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 8847, porterhousebrewco.com A must for fans of world and craft beers, this Parliament St. hotspot is the oldest of

OLD FASHIONED An all-time classic preparation of Woodford Bourne reserve, bitters and orange zest, combined with aplomb by master mixologist Paul Lambert. The Blind Pig Speakeasy is a pop-up bar in a secret location which offers retro ‘20s-themed cocktails. Find them at facebook.com/BlindPigSpeakeasyDublin to discover when they will next be welcoming customers. The Blind Pig Speakeasy, undisclosed location, Dublin city centre HENDRICKʼS HIGH TEA The most ostentatiously presented cocktail in town. Hendrick’s gin served as a refreshing mix drink in a specially commissioned teapot and teacups. Perfect for a sunny day. The Exchequer, 3 – 5 Exchequer St., Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 670 6787, theexchequer.ie THE STEPHENʼS GREEN An attractive mix of fresh kiwi, muddled with sugar, vanilla vodka and apple juice. Enjoy at a table on the chilled-out terrace at Bite on South Frederick St. Bite, 29 South Frederick St., Dublin 2, Tel: (01) 679 7000, bitedublin.com COSMOPOLITAN Probably Dublin’s most popular cocktail. We think we’ve found the best in the bar of this chic hotel. Let us know if you agree. Dylan Hotel, Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4. Tel: (01) 660 3000, dylan.ie MOJITO It is easy to find a bad mojito so it is a cause for celebration when you discover an outstanding one. You’ll find awardwinning cocktails served at the unique revolving carousel bar in the Lep’ Inn. Leopardstown Inn, Brewery Road, Stillorgan. Tel: (01) 288 9189, leopardstowninn.ie

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three Porterhouse bars in the capital. Offering an extensive menu of stouts, ales and lagers, including their own brews, you’ll be spoilt for choice in this popular Temple Bar gem.

stylish places to catch a quick drink in the city. Boasting a sleek cosmpolitan décor and hit-spinning DJs, it’s more than welcoming to those looking for a place to dance the night away.

THE BERNARD SHAW 12 Richmond St. South, Rathmines, Dublin 2 Tel: 085 712 8342

THE LONG HALL 58 South George’s St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 475 1590

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Part bar, part café, part cutting-edge creative space, the Bernard Shaw practically oozes with originality. Thanks to some unbeatable drinks promotions, an electronicallyinclined booking policy for live music and a terrific smoking area, which is home to the pizza-serving big blue bus, it’s long been a magnet for some of Dublin’s trendiest scenesters.

www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

OʼNEILLʼS 2 Suffolk St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 3656, oneillsbar. com

An authentic Dublin boozer if ever there was one, O’Neill’s has had a pub on its premises for 300 years and is renowned for its ageless character and princely snugs and alcoves. Expect lively trad sessions and top notch pub grub.

THE BRAZEN HEAD 20 Lower Bridge St., Dublin 8 Tel: (01) 677 9549

’ Admission Museum and Tour Combined Ticket: Individual €10 Family €25 (2 adults, 2 children) Museum Opening Times Monday – Friday: 10am–5pm Saturday, Sunday, & Bank Holiday Mondays: 11am–5pm Cemetery Tours Daily Tour *11.30pm & 2.30pm (*March – October) Additional Tour Daily 1.00pm (July)

Advance booking required for groups over 10. Educational, Literary and Military tours available on request. For further information contact Glasnevin Museum T 01 8826550 E museum@glasnevintrust.ie Web www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Dating back to 1196, the Brazen Head is Dublin’s oldest pub. Just a short walk from the majestic Christ Church Cathedral, its nestled cosily in one of the most historically rich areas in the capital. Past patrons have included James Joyce, Wolfe Tone, and more recently, Van Morrison, Garth Brooks and Tom Jones.

4 DAME LANE 4 Dame Lane, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 0291

A modern nightclub bar, regularly utilised for launch nights and wrap parties, 4 Dame Lane is one of the more

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Best known as the smoky watering hole from Phil Lynott’s 1982 ‘Old Town’ music video, this South George’s St. pub is exactly what it claims to be – a long hall! Now a beloved haunt of Rihanna and Bruce Springsteen, its sweet, homely ambience and yarn-spinning barmen easily charm stars and locals alike.

THE STAGʼS HEAD 1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 3687

Roomy, distinguished and 118 years young, The Stag’s Head is every inch the noble Dublin stalwart. Maintaining its distinctive Victorian décor, the popular Dame Court haunt has a delightful grandfatherly appeal, which carries across three floors and a darling little parlour lounge that once served as a fashionable Victorian smoking room. The first pub in the capital to enjoy electric light, the Stag’s Head is a fantastic pitstop for anyone looking to sample an authentic piece of old Dublin.

37 DAWSON ST. 37 Dawson St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 902 2908

All is not what it seems at this Dawson St. tavern, which just opened its doors in June of this year. A quirky and fun establishment, brimming with oddities, 37 Dawson St. is kitted out with everything from bulldog table lamps and fur chairs to intriguing posters and old school mirrors. A highglamour affair, it’s already a favourite for girls’ nights out.

my D UBLIN KATIE STENSON

IRVINE WELSH. AUTHOR What do you like best about Dublin? There are a million things to like about Dublin and the only thing to dislike is the amount of mayonnaise they put on takeaway sandwiches. The best thing is the wonderful social interface between the people and the pubs. Best outdoors place? The canal side by the Portobello Pub. On a hot day the action spills out from the bank to the bank. Dublin’s best restaurant? I love the Unicorn, especially for lunch with its big ‘eat plates of antipasti. Dublin’s best bar? Grogan’s! Or maybe the Long Hall! Or even the Stag’s Head. Or after a game at Croker, the Gravediggers... Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? Fallon & Byrne. Where do you shop for clothes? Brown Thomas or Harvey Nicks at Dundrum.

Dublin needs more? Cool, decent neighbourhood restaurants. There are some great high-end spots, and excellent greasy spoons, but a more adventurous portfolio of midrange spots would be welcome. Dublin needs less? Those tacky gift shops selling flags, harps, shamrocks, shelaighlies and blow-up leprechauns. Favourite Dublin building? Kilmainham Jail and Museum. Everybody should visit it to understand the heroic battle Ireland fought to liberate itself from imperialism. Also, Dalymont Park main stand. Your Dublin hero? James Connolly, because he came from my home city of Edinburgh, died in Dublin, and gives me an emotional bridge between those two great capitals. When you’re with friends in Dublin what do you like to do? I could dress this one up, but it would be a lie – we’re never out the boozers.

“Offering the best value in town” - Georgina Campbell’s Ireland Guide

Post-Theatre Jazz and Supper Menu From 10pm every Friday & Saturday Night Till Late 25 Three Course Value Menu Served All Evening from 5pm Pre-Theatre Dining Monday to Friday 5pm to 7pm 2 courses �22 & 3 courses �25 Now serving Sunday lunch 81-82 Talbot St, North City Centre Dublin Tel: + 353 1 704 0126 info@leboncrubeen.ie www.leboncrubeen.ie

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DUBLIN’S BEST VENUES Grand theatres, sweaty rock clubs, intimate acoustic venues: Dublin’s got it all, and more besides. Here are our ten favourite live music hotspots...

Anna Calvi in The Workman’s Club

Azealia Banks in Whelan’s

THE WORKMANʼS CLUB 10 Wellington Quay, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 670 6692, theworkmansclub.com Having quickly established itself as the goto venue for head-banging, hip-swinging and celeb-spotting, this thriving club has been the Liffeyside hangout of choice for music lovers since it opened its doors in 2010. It’s since attracted a handful of jaw-dropping acts, including First Aid Kit, Imelda May and Anna Calvi, while Villagers liked it so much they recorded a live album there. An ever-expanding social centre, now comprising a western-style Bison Bar and ladylike Vintage Room, the Workman’s Club has something to suit every whim. One last piece of advice; don’t dare leave without sampling the nearlegendary spiced banana daiquiris.

club to grand discotheque to suit the artist within, it hosts shows by Chic, Santigold and Beardyman this Summer.

THE ACADEMY 57 Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 877 9999, theacademydublin.com Catering for music lovers of every persuasion, the Academy has an allembracing music policy operating across four floors. Notable guests over the years include MGMT, P Diddy, Crystal Castles, Chuck Berry and Mark Ronson – and then there’s festival favourites The Killers, who dubbed their Academy show the highlight of their world tour back in 2008.

WORDS: Nadene PHOTOS:

Ryan

Graham Keogh & Ruth Medjber

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THE BUTTON FACTORY Curved St., Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 670 9202, buttonfactory.ie Nestled in the heart of Temple Bar, the Button Factory has welcomed trailblazing artists like Little Dragon, Tune-Yards and Yuck through its doors in the last 12 months alone. A versatile venue that effortlessly morphs from heaving rock

THE GRAND SOCIAL 35 Lower Liffey St., Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 874 0076, thegrandsocial.ie The new and improved venue at the Ha’penny Bridge is better known as the best place to see a new act before they become the hottest thing in music, thanks to hype-free shows by Ghostpoet, Django Django and BBC Sound of 2012 winner Michael Kiwanuka. The circus tent stage in the main venue upstairs frames a funky and alternative creative nerve centre, while outside, the cosy couches and sporadic hot dog stands are the stars of the roomy smoking area. VICAR ST. 58 – 59 Thomas St., Dublin 8 Tel: (01) 775 5800, vicarstreet.ie With a seated capacity of more than 1,000, Vicar St. is one of the capital’s bigger venues, but miraculously, it still manages to harbour an intimate atmosphere. A musicians’ favourite for almost 15 years with a state-of-the-art sound system, it’s a frankly unstoppable Dublin stalwart. WHELANʼS 25 Wexford St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 478 0766, whelanslive.com A silver screen regular and true musiclovers paradise, Whelan’s is the Dublin venue that needs no introduction. Folks have come from far and wide to sample the musical delights at the Wexford St. venue, and with Nick Cave, Damien Rice and the legendary Jeff Buckley among its former guests, you can see why.

VENUES

Bipolar Empire in The Grand Social

Maverick Sabre in The Academy

Kid Karate in the Button Factory

Paul Simon in Vicar St.

THE O2 Northwall Quay, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 819 8888, theo2.ie

A monster 14,000-seat venue on the North quays, this awe-inspiring amphitheatre boasts world-class acoustics and a gigography dripping with pop royalty (Beyoncé, Britney, Gaga and more). Expect fiery pyrotechnics, ginormous props and, if you’re lucky, a water jet shower.

THE OLYMPIA 72 Dame St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 3323, olympia.ie

The grand design and plush red interior of Dublin’s 133-year-old Olympia Theatre have impressed many a celebrity guest over the years including Snoop Dogg, who we’re reliably told couldn’t get enough of the place! David Bowie, Radiohead and The Pixies are just a few of the acts to tread the Dame St. venue’s suitably stylish boards, while Nicki Minaj and the Scissor Sisters are both lined up for shows later this year.

Sinéad O’Connor in The Olympia

THE TWISTED PEPPER 54 Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1 Tel: 086 325 2471

There’s always something happening for the musically-minded at the Twisted Pepper, which also plays home to cult coffee merchants 3FE and the vinyl experts behind record store Elastic Witch. A family-friendly alternative hangout by day and hardcore party spot by night, it’s one of the cleverest little social hubs in the city.

SWEENEYʼS 32 Dame St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 635 0056

With a stellar bill of open mic nights and once-off gigs, Sweeney’s is the Indie-lover’s venue of choice. Sporting an impossibly cool interior, lined with album covers and other musical trinkets, it comprises three floors, each with a stage, so it’s well able to accommodate the eclectic mix of rock, folk, jazz and electronic sounds that pump through its lavishly-decorated walls.

Imelda May in The O2

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BODHRÁN TO BE WILD From jigs and reels to sean-nós and impassioned bodhrán bashing, Dublin is a treasure trove for fans of trad and folk.

Paddy Casey and Glen Hansard in Áras Chronain

THE SÉAMUS ENNIS CENTRE Main St., Naul, Co. Dublin Tel: (01) 802 0898, seamusenniscentre.com

The adventurous amongst us won’t be perturbed at having to make our way right to the northern edge of Dublin, to the village of Naul. The Séamus Ennis Centre is housed in the cottage once occupied by piper and tune collector Séamus Ennis and it has atmosphere oozing from the walls as well as a good line in well presented and tasty grub. No bar, but you can dander across the road to Killian’s and still hear the strains of the music. Sunday afternoons.

OʼDONOGHUEʼS 15 Merrion Row, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 660 7194, odonoghues.ie

Here is the daddy of them all, home to sessions for well over 50 years now. Many fine musicians have graced O’Donoghue’s pews, not least the members of The Dubliners who congregated there in the early ‘60s before going on to bigger stages worldwide. If you want to soak up some musical history, this is the place. Seven nights a week, afternoon session on Saturday and lunchtime on Sunday.

DEVITTS 78 Lower Camden St., Dublin 8

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Tel: (01) 475 3414, facebook.com/devittspub

Devitts is to be found in Dublin’s Music Row, in the same stretch of street as Whelan’s and The Village, both well-loved venues in their own right. Devitt’s has a solid reputation for attracting great players and is home to one of the most highly regarded sessions in town. If you have to pick one night, Friday night is the one. Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.

THE STEEPLE SESSIONS Unitarian Church, St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 678 8470, steeplesessions.com

Bang in the middle of the city and boasting some of the biggest names in Irish traditional music, the Steeple Sessions have fast established themselves as one of the best in the capital. Held in an atmospheric venue, the only drawback is that they don’t run all year round. Tuesday and Thursday nights, June, July and August.

HUGHES 19 – 20 Chancery St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 872 6540

Traditional players come from all over the world to play in Hughes. In the main bar there are sessions Friday and Saturday night. Most nights there are players sessions

in the intimate surroundings of the snug where you’ll be welcome to watch, as long as there’s no chatting! It’s also one of the best places to see the uilleann pipes played. Friday and Saturdays, nightly in the snug.

THE COBBLESTONE 77 North King St., Dublin 7 Tel: (01) 872 1799, cobblestonepub.ie

Tucked away on a back street at the top end of Smithfield Plaza, The Cobblestone is a little off the beaten track, but it’s well worth the effort required to get there. You’ll be rewarded with a downhome atmosphere and some excellent musicianship. Nightly.

ÁRAS CHRONAIN Watery Lane, Orchard Road, Clondalkin, Dublin 22 Tel: (01) 457 4847, araschronain.ie

Again a venue that’s a little out of town, Áras Chrónáin Ionad Cultúrtha – the Irish Cultural Centre – is a magnificent Georgian house in wonderful picturesque surroundings right in the heart of old Clondalkin village. It hosts nightly sessions including a set-dancing session on Friday nights, as well as regular concerts by wellestablished performers. Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights.

my DUBLIN

ABIE PHILBIN BOWMAN COMEDIAN What do you like best about Dublin? The welcome. You can go for a night out in many parts of Dublin and are 80% sure that you’ll

either meet old acquaintances, or make new ones. Best outdoors place? I love the secluded peace and beauty of the Iveagh Gardens.

The only downside is that it closes far too early, meaning you have to gather up your things, and trudge the 90 seconds down the street to Stephen’s Green... First World Problems, eh? Dublin’s best restaurant? I love Asian food, so I’m a big fan of Neon on Camden St. and Yamamori on the Quays. Where do you shop for clothes? I live near Camden St., which is charity shop central. I recently picked up three fabulous suit jackets - a red velvet H&M, a classic ‘Saville Row’ with gold lining, and a grey Christian Dior - all for €16. I like the fact that despite our wildly differing incomes, I can still outdress Mark Zuckerberg. Favourite Dublin building? As a student, I lived on campus in Trinity College. I distinctly remember wandering into Front Square at 2am, looking around at all the gorgeous buildings and thinking, “Bloody hell! This is my front garden.”

Your Dublin music? Dublin has produced many fantastic musicians, who left Ireland to conquer the world. I’m always intrigued when an artist makes the opposite journey, and chooses Dublin as their new home. On that basis, I’ll pick one of our adopted sons, Neil Hannon of The Divine Comedy. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? I love living in the city centre, around Camden St. It feels like a social estuary, where several different currents converge to meet the city centre. My Dublin hero? Bob Geldof, no contest. When I was younger, I wanted my life to be somewhere between Geldof and my other hero, Mahatma Gandhi. Now that I’m older, I’ve realised that halfway between Gandhi and Geldof is ‘Gandalf ’. When you’re with friends in Dublin what do you like to do? Eat, drink and argue about the state of the world...

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WALK THIS WAY WALKIN G AND H I KI N G DUBL IN

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O U T D OORS (clockwise from left) Howth Head, Dun Laoghaire & U2 pictured on Sandymount Strand

A guide to the best walking routes and hiking trails in the capital.

WORDS

The iconic picture of U2, taken on Sandymount Strand by Anton Corbijn

Anne Sexton

ith hills, beaches and harbours, Dublin has an abundance of great walks for both the serious hiker and the casual stroller. Whether you are looking for an easy ramble or something more challenging, our selection of walking routes will put you on the right path.

TICKNOCK Dublin Mountains Ticknock is perfect for those who want to get away from it all, but return to civilisation in time for dinner. Ticknock offers up to ten kilometres of mountain and forest walks with marked trails, viewing points and picnic sites. Although Ticknock is part of the Wicklow Way, which can be tricky in places, the forest walks on the Dublin Mountain side are fine for children and for those of us who could be fitter. Try the Fairy Castle Loop trail. This is a moderate walk of 5.5 kilometres and takes between one and two hours.

SANDYMOUNT STRAND Dublin 4 Sandymount Strand stretches from Booterstown up to Irishtown. If you follow the complete route there are two nature

sanctuaries along the Strand – the Booterstown Bird Sanctuary and Irishtown Nature Reserve by the Poolbeg Peninsula. Sandymount Strand is a shallow, tidal mudflat and beach, perfect for walking, but sadly not great for swimming. But never mind – on a warm day, the sea breeze makes this a refreshing and invigorating hike.

THE DÚN LAOGHAIRE METALS Co. Dublin In 1816 a railway line was laid down to bring granite from Dalkey quarry to Dún Laoghaire, then known as Kingstown. Over the next 50 years or so over 600,000 tons of stone was carted along the railway and used to build the piers in this harbour village. Now a popular walk, the Metals follows the old railway track and takes you past the People’s Park, James Joyce’s Martello Tower in Sandycove, Dalkey Castle and onto the Dalkey quarry. That means you get scenic views and places of historical interest all in one go.

THE GRAND CANAL WAY Dublin 2 The Grand Canal Way is pretty lengthy

at 114 kilometres long, but the Dublin section is an easy walk, and never too far from a pub or café if you need refreshment. The walk begins at the Waterways Visitors Centre at Grand Canal Quay. But, of course, you can start anywhere along the canal. The route is periodically marked with brown and white signposts, and there are benches dotted along the way if you fancy putting your feet up.

HOWTH HEAD Co. Dublin A favourite with Dubliners, Howth Head is picturesque, with views towards the Wicklow Mountains and the Mountains of Mourne. Howth itself is an attractive busy village and a seafood lover’s paradise. Seals can often been seen in the harbour, begging fish off day-trippers. There are four looped walks around Howth Head ranging from easy to difficult. All begin and end at the DART station. The Bog of Frogs loop is the most difficult route, taking three to four hours to complete, so proper walking shoes are recommended. A map of all four routes is available for free from the Tourist Office on the West Pier.

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A TASTY NIGHT

IN DUBLIN

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mick quinn

Shane MacGowan’s Top 10 Restaurants

SHANE M A C G OWA N

Lobster Burger from Bite & Yamamori

Shane MacGowan: songwriter, hellraiser, poet frontman... gourmand? Before heading off to perform in Paris with The Pogues our special guest restaurant critic revealed his top ten recommendations for dining in Dublin. THE TROCADERO No. 4, St. Andrew St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 5545, trocadero.ie

BITE 29 South Frederick St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 7000, bitedublin.com

The Troc has a great atmosphere and everyone is far too busy to bother me. It stays open late to cater for a theatre crowd. They always have Verdicchio and other amazing wines. The Bloody Marys are unbelievable, possibly the best I have had in a restaurant and the food is not fussy. I especially love the deep fried camembert.

This place has a great atmosphere. I love that you can smoke and eat at the same time. I particularly like the green cod. And you bump into fascinating conversationalists like Simon Carmody and brilliant modern Irish artists like Guggi and Gavin Friday.

BELLUCCI 22 – 30 Merrion Road, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 668 9422, bellucci.ie Like everything Robbie Fox does, this place is done without any big fuss, but is as close to perfection as you can get. Robbie always has a personal greeting for his regulars. I love the Bellucci pizza, but really I like everything about this place - it’s well worth a visit.

YAMAMORI ORIENTAL CAFÉ & IZAKAYA 12 – 13 South Great Georges St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 645 8001, yamamoriizakaya.ie This is the best Japanese restaurant outside Japan. I particularly love the downstairs bar, where they play really good house music at exactly the right volume so you can dance. They also show really good samurai films.

PAULIE’S PIZZA 58 Upper Grand Canal St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 664 3658, juniors.ie/paulies-pizza I love this place, it has a great buzz, the staff are very friendly. They have a proper pizza oven, and they do amazing pizza.

RIGBYS 126 Upper Leeson St., Dublin 4 Tel: 087 793 9195 I like everything about Rigbys. I like Mr. Rigby. I like the food. It doesn’t have a menu, he just cooks whatever he feels like and they don’t have a bar, you bring your own booze. It is a great place. This is a real Dublin restaurant. Go there.

DUNNE & CRESCENZI 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount Dublin 4 This is an old-fashioned, family-type Italian restaurant. It is just down the road from where I am living, so I can walk there. I love the goats’ cheese and pear salad, and the pomodoro pasta, and I like

the way they are nice and free with the Limoncello. Their ‘puddings’ to use the Royal terminology are brilliant. They must be, because I eat them.

O’CONNELL’S RESTAURANT 133 – 135 Morehampton Road, Donnybrook, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 269 6116, oconnellsdonnybrook.com I started going to O’Connells when I lived in Donnybrook and I love the bruschetta. I also love the fish which is always fresh. Again, this is a friendly, family run place and the owners are always there to welcome you. And McCluskeys is only up the road.

CHEZ MAX 133 Baggot St., Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 661 8899, chezmax.ie Chez Max is a proper French restaurant, run by French people. They do classic French dishes like Escargot and French onion soup and they do Ricard Pastis. It reminds me of Marseilles. It also has a little brother just beside Dublin Castle. It has a great smoking garden too.

NOSHINGTON 186 South Circular Road Dublin 8 Tel: (01) 410 0414, noshington.wordpress.com Noshington has a beautiful garden with a pear tree and a wall of barbed wire which is like looking at the wall of the Maze. The food is great.

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ELECTRIC PICNIC Rachel Allen’s Perfect Dublin Picnic

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RAC HEL’S PICNIC

Dubliner and TV foodie Rachel Allen has the perfect recipe for an urban picnic. From an impromptu snack in Meeting House Square to a full on movable feast in Marlay Park her advice is to take it outside. Here are some special recipes to help you on your way. PICNIC PHOTOS

Katie Stenson

verything just tastes better outside, doesn’t it?! Even a cup of tea and something in a roll, some cheese and chutney perhaps, that you’ve just put together. In Dublin, the Iveagh Gardens is such a gem of a place for a picnic. Of course we all get to see it at the Taste Of Dublin festival, but I’ve been there a number of times when it’s not on and it’s just this hidden little sanctuary in the centre of the city, a beautiful walled garden, absolutely gorgeous. That would be my first city centre choice for a picnic. Not forgetting the Phoenix Park of course, I remember just sitting there when all the deer were out and people do really use it, which is great. Or if you want to head out of the city go to Dalkey and visit the lovely White Rock beach. You have to go down lots and lots of steps, so this isn’t a picnic for when you have babies on your hips and a heavy picnic basket, but if you have a light picnic and are able for the steps I recommend you head to this little beach overlooking Sorrento Terrace and Killiney Bay. Now if I was in Dublin on my way to the Iveagh Gardens, I would visit Listons Food Store on Camden St., Sheridans Cheesemongers on South Anne St. and Fallon & Byrne on Exchequer St. It’s almost like a triangle of great delis in the heart of the city. I’d head to Sheridans first and ask them what cheeses they have, what’s best, what’s really ripe? I would recommend a very ripe Ardrahan, some Durrus or some Ardsallagh goat’s cheese, Glebe Brethan or mature Mossfield. Marry them with the chutneys. Listons have fantastic relishes and chutneys, or I would head to my local farmer’s market and

get some relishes. I always have a million relishes in my fridge anyway but I look out for more seasonal produce like lovely apple chutneys. I’d also get some Gubbeen salamis, made by Fingal Ferguson in West Cork. His produce is sold in Dublin and at many farmer’s markets. Fingal has a wonderful range of salamis, his venison salami is fantastic and he’s also got great chorizos, so I’d definitely recommend packing some charcuterie like that. I’d also look out for Frank Hederman’s smoked fish: salmon, mussels, trout, even smoked mackerel pate. In Listons, I would pick up some of Declan Ryan’s breads. Declan has a bakery called Arbutus that produces really wonderful Irish-made breads using a lot of traditional French techniques. His bread has really great flavour, his sourdough is fantastic, it has a mild sourdough flavour with a really chewy crust. Picnics with lots of little picky bits are great. To add something more substantial, I would make my pork and egg picnic pie: it’s portable, not a delicate flaky pie that could collapse at the bottom of a basket, so I would start with something like that. It can even be made the day before and frozen. I would team it with a homemade cucumber pickle, it’s so easy to make and works so well as a condiment with the pie and cheeses. Myrtle Allen started making this in Ballymaloe over 30 years ago, it’s one of the most handy recipes to have in your repertoire. And a cake. I would make an afternoon tea cake. But having said that if I was in town and suddenly the sun was shining and I wanted a picnic, I wouldn’t think twice about going to buy a lovely slice of cake. A picnic and a homemade cake with a big flask of tea is just amazing. And the simplest thing can just taste like a feast, fit for a king. Make it achievable so you don’t think it’s going to be too much hassle. Even if you just get some gorgeous tomatoes and a couple of sprigs of basil, bring a little olive oil, salt and pepper in little jars and make a really good tomato and basil salad when you’re there. Things that really won’t last that long or aren’t that portable I’d bring with me and assemble there, it’s kind of half the fun anyway, isn’t it! If it was a sunny day and I wanted something nice to drink, I’d seek out some

beer from a great little craft brewery called the Dungarvan Brewing Company. They have really fantastic produce that is sold in a lot of delis and good off-licences. And for something extra special, why not try some English Nyetimber sparkling wine, it’s ideal if someone wanted to maybe make a little proposal or something like that! When you’re going to the effort, really make it a big treat. I must say I’m not into paper plates, I want it to feel quite special, so I would choose nice things to drink out of and eat from and bring a couple of napkins. Make it feel like an occasion. Bring a blanket! One of the best wedding presents I got was a blanket with a waterproof backing on it. So that is an essential for picnics in Ireland. Mine is a Foxford. You also need a proper picnic basket, something with very strong handles. We used to have a great little second hand shop in Middleton where I bought a basket that has wooden lids that lift on either side and a handle goes across the centre of the basket. That was about €15, so I would check out second hand shops for a great little picnic basket. A picnic that we have quite a lot as a family down here in Co. Cork is a ‘breakfast picnic’. It’s completely different and it’s pretty easy to throw together: sausages from our local producer, our own eggs from home, rashers, tea and coffee in flasks, beer or cider if you feel like it. We bring frying pans along and make a little fire on the beach. Obviously when you’re leaving, you have to make sure you throw water over the fire and clean up everything. It’s fun for children and you just end up lying there relaxing for a while, inviting people along and once you’ve got the fire going or if you bring a little portable barbecue, it’s so worth the effort. When heading out, don’t forget the smaller details that mimic what you eat at home, like salt and pepper. I always place condiments such as Irish Atlantic sea salt in little plastic tubs and bring a pepper mill and some mustard for sausages. It pays to prepare a few things in advance, but it’s very easy to have a great spontaneous picnic, just don’t forget the blanket. I keep my waterproof blanket in my car. Bring extra clothes and check the weather before you head out, it is Ireland after all!

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R AC H E L’ S PI C N I C

RACHEL’S PICNIC RECIPES: PORK AND EGG PICNIC PIE

Directions:

Serves 8–10

25cm (10in) diameter tart tin with 3cm (1 ¼ in) sides 1. Prepare the pastry. Place the butter and 100ml (3 ½ fl oz) water in a saucepan and heat gently, stirring occasionally, until the butter melts, then allow the mixture to come to a rolling boil. Meanwhile, sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and add the egg. Pour the hot liquid into the flour and quickly stir with a wooden spoon to mix to a dough. Use the wooden spoon to spread the dough out on a large plate and allow to cool for about 15 minutes. Knead the dough into a ball, flatten slightly, wrap in clingfilm and place in the fridge for about 30 minutes to firm up.

This is best served at room temperature and eaten with pickles and cheese on the side. It’s also delicious served with a little chutney. The pie lasts for a few days in the fridge.

For The Hot Watercrust Pastry: 75g (3oz) butter, cubed 225g (8oz) plain flour, plus extra for dusting Pinch of salt 1 egg, beaten (plus another for glazing)

For The Minced Pork Mixture:

625g (1lb 6oz) minced pork 3 cloves of garlic, peeled and crushed or finely grated 1 tbsp chopped thyme and sage (a mixture) 1 egg, beaten Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg Salt and freshly ground black pepper

For The Topping:

10 rashers of back (not streaky) bacon, trimmed of fat 4 eggs

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5. Cover the base of the pastry with five of the trimmed bacon rashers. Place the minced pork mixture over the top, then make four ‘dips’ or ‘wells’ for the eggs to go into. Crack an egg into each of these ‘wells’, then cover the mixture with the remaining five rashers. 6. Roll out the second half of the pastry until it is also about 7mm (3/8 in) thick and carefully place it on top of the pie. Trim the edges and brush the top with a little more of the beaten egg. If you wish, roll out the scraps until they are about 5mm (1/4 in) thick and cut into leaves or whatever shapes take your fancy! Place on top of the pie and brush the shapes with the remainder of the beaten egg to glaze.

Picnics with lots of little picky bits are great!

2. While the pastry is chilling, mix all ingredients for the minced pork mixture together in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper, then fry a tiny bit to taste for seasoning. 3. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F), gas mark 4. Roll out half of the pastry on a lightly floured work surface until it is about 7mm (3/8 in) thick and use to line the tart tin. Trim the edges and brush around them with some of the beaten egg.

7. Make a hole, about 5mm (1/4 in) wide in the centre of the pastry at the top of the pie and cook in the oven for approximately 1 hour and 10 minutes–1 hour and 20 minutes or until golden brown and a skewer inserted into the middle comes out hot (too hot to hold on the inside of your wrist). Allow to cool for at least 30 minutes before removing from the tin. When cooled, cut into slices to serve.

RAC HEL’S PICNIC

CUCUMBER PICKLE: Myrtle Allen started making this in Ballymaloe over 30 years ago , it is one of the most handy recipes to have in your repetoire; not only is it good in burgers and all kinds of sandwiches, but it is wonderful with cold sliced meats, smoked fish, and transforms a humble hard boiled egg and a chunk of cheddar into a feast. It is a pickle so even though it will lose its vibrant green colour, it will keep for weeks and weeks and weeks… 900g (2lb) thinly sliced unpeeled cucumber 3 small onions, thinly sliced 350g (12oz) sugar 1 tbsp salt 225ml (8fl.oz) cider vinegar or white wine vinegar

Directions: Picnic basket, blanket & utensils provided by Avoca. Food provided by Fallon & Byrne, Sheridans & Avoca

Mix the cucumber and onion in a large bowl, add the sugar, salt and vinegar, and mix well to combine. Make 1 hour ahead, if possible.

AFTERNOON TEA CAKE Makes 8 slices / Vegetarian

I love this cake with its juicy mixture of fruit and just a hint of alcohol, and the bonus is that it’s so easy to put together. 125g (5oz) mixture of dried fruit, such as raisins, sultanas, currants, chopped dates and chopped dried apricots 75ml (2½ fl oz) Cointreau, brandy or whiskey 200g (7oz) butter 150g (5oz) caster sugar 1 tbsp sunflower oil 3 eggs 250g (10oz) flour, sifted 1 tsp baking powder Pinch of salt Icing sugar, for dusting

Directions:

1. Preheat the oven to 180C (350F), gas mark 4. Line the base of a 20cm (8in) cake tin with greaseproof paper and rub the sides with a butter wrapper to grease it. 2. Place the dried fruit and alcohol in a saucepan and bring to the boil, simmer for a few seconds, then pour out into a bowl and allow to cool. 3. Beat the butter until soft, add the sugar and beat, then add the oil and the eggs one by one, beating all the time (I usually do this in a food processor). Next, gently stir in the sifted flour, baking powder, salt, fruit and liqueur. 4. Transfer the cake batter into the prepared tin, smooth the top and cook in the oven for 50 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the cake centre comes out clean. Cool slightly before removing the cake from the tin and finish cooling on a wire rack. Dredge with icing sugar when cool.

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THE BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE 080

FASH ION

From high street reliables to cutting-edge boutiques, Dublin city’s got a fashion hotspot to suit all styles and budgets. Fashion insiders Vicki Notaro and Anne Sexton share their top tips...

Georgia May Jagger when she ofﬁcially launched the limited edition Marc Jacobs designed “Fight Like A Girl” bag at Brown Thomas, Dublin in aid of Fashion Targets Breast Cancer Ireland 7th Annual Campaign & (opposite page) dress from Costume

Havana may be smaller than either BT or Harvey Nichols but it has been going strong since 1994 for that very reason. It’s a boutique shopping experience but with an impressive range of designers such as Alberta Ferretti, Vera Wang, Nicole Farhi and John Rocha as well as some you won’t ﬁnd anywhere else in the country such as Azzedine Alaia and Comme des Garcons.

BROWN THOMAS 88 Grafton St., Dublin 2 Web: brownthomas.com Dublin’s premier department store for label-loving ladies and men, Brown Thomas is home to some of the world’s most famous designers and fashion houses such as Pucci, Tom Ford, Lanvin and Marni as well as home-grown talent such as Paul Costelloe and Louise Kennedy. BT also stocks some of the more affordable diffusion collections such as See by Chloé, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Victoria by Victoria Beckham and Alice by Temperley.

HARVEY NICHOLS Dundrum Town Centre, Dundrum, Dublin 16 Web: dundrum.ie/stores/harvey-nichols Giving BT a run for its money in the designer stakes, Harvey Nichols stocks designers such as Stella McCartney, Donna Karen and Valentino. While Harvey Nicks is many a woman’s ﬁrst stop for that special frock, men are also well catered for. Hungry shoppers can take a break at the awardwinning First Floor Restaurant or the Ground Floor Café, and Harvey Nichol’s boutique food market is a gourmet’s paradise.

HAVANA 2 Angelsea House, Donnybrook, Dublin 4 Web: havanaboutique.ie

99B (MARGARET HOWLETT) 99B Rathgar Road, Rathgar Village, Dublin 6 Web: beuysandbeuys.com The British designer Margaret Howlett is known for her understated clothing made with ﬁne fabrics and great cuts. Designed for people who live in the real world and want great clothes that are practical and stylish, Howlett has a dedicated fan base amongst men and women. 99b is the place in Ireland to ﬁnd her clothes. A small boutique offering excellent personal service and a thoughtful collection.

COSTUME 10 – 11 Castle Market, Dublin 2 Web: costumedublin.ie Founded in the late ‘90s by three sisters, Anne, Leigh and Tracy Tucker, Costume specialises in helping clients build a wardrobe that is about personal style not disposable fashion. The range reﬂects quality and cut with collections from the likes of Roland Mouret, Proenza Schouler and John Smedley.

KAREN MILLEN 72 Grafton St., Dublin 2 Web: irelandkarenmillen.com The perfect compromise between highend and high street, Karen Millen offers glamorous clothes with a designer feel at very reasonable prices. The ﬂagship Irish store on Grafton Street is many fashionista’s ﬁrst stop for cocktail dresses and party frocks.

TOPSHOP St. Stephen’s Green North, Dublin 2 Web: topshop.com Ah, where would we be without Topshop? Everybody, and her aunty, has bought clothes here because it is hard to beat the range and price. Topshop has branches across Dublin but their large store on Stephen’s Green is particularly good as it houses a number of special designer and Topshop collections. The denim section makes ﬁnding the perfect pair of jeans a piece of pie.

A|WEAR Grafton St., Dublin 2 Web: awear.com Our homegrown high street hero, A|Wear has been keeping Irish ladies fashionably turned out at very reasonable prices for over 25 years. With three ﬂoors of fashion, the Grafton Street branch is the best choice to ﬁnd A|Wear’s boutique brands such as Atelier 61 and True Decadence.

CLEO 18 Kildare St., Dublin 2 Web: irishclothing.ie Cleo is your ﬁrst stop for fashionable but traditional Irish knitwear and artisan clothing. More than your standard Aran jumper, Cleo stocks sweaters, coats, blouses, shirts and accessories, all made in Ireland by craftspeople and designers.

CAROUSEL 20 Exchequer St., Dublin 2 Web: ilovecarousel.com Carousel is a lovely little independent store stocking a small range of vintage frocks and a larger one of vintage inspired fashion. Carousel specialises in gorgeous prints, cute cardies and retro inspired accessories all at very reasonable prices.

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FASH ION

Vicki’s Vintage Picks TOP FIVE VINTAGE BOUTIQUES LUCY’S LOUNGE 11 Fownes St., Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 4779, lucyslounge-dee.blogspot.ie A basement bursting with vintage and second-hand goodies, Lucy’s Lounge is stuffed with shoes, clothes and accessories as well as bric-a-brac. The staff are friendly and more importantly, don’t mind you spending hours rooting through their rails.

HARLEQUIN 13 Castle Market, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 671 0202, facebook.com/pages/TheHarlequin/502069575532 Specialising in vintage threads, Harlequin is high class all the way and the perfect place to find both formerly high fashion stuff that’s back on trend and more refined classics. Also great for costume parties, it’s like a time warp in the best possible way.

THE 3RD POLICEMAN 121 Lower Rathmines Road, Dublin 6 Tel: 085 848 7763, facebook.com/ t3rdpoliceman This gorgeous little suburban shop specialises in European vintage goods and has a distinct Parisian flair. If your granny was Brigitte Bardot, this is what her attic would look like. Eclectic and affordable, the homewares are particularly fab. Perfect if your style is more continental than charity shop.

QUACK + DIRK Rear Marino Mart, Fairview, Dublin 3 Tel: 086 325 1635, quackanddirk.com A mix of vintage finds and oneoff creations, this store is the brainchild of designer Deirdre Cantwell who hand-picks and sews her shop’s goods, and often pops off around the world to source her wares. Quirky and fun.

JENNY VANDER 50 Drury St., Dublin 2 This boutique is more expensive, but you’re also more likely to find designer goods for a fraction of the price. It has especially fabulous accessories for the magpies out there, and a sense of old-worldliness that can be lost in more modern second-hand stores.

BEST FOR HAIR EXTENSIONS

GREAT LENGTHS Salon Caramelle, Sandyford, Vicki Notaro

Dublin 16 Tel: (01) 284 4982, greatlengthsireland.com Beauty is said to be an almost recessionproof industry, and the booming trade in specialist hair extension salons in Dublin proves the point. Women dying for Victoria’s Secret-esque hair are saving the pennies they’d normally spend on cuts and colours and spending them on extensions designed to provide bouffants to rival Cheryl Cole. Hair extensions have come a long way in recent years, and the new sophisticated processes used to apply and maintain them mean the results are more Kim Kardashian than Katie Price. Several salons have cropped up in recent months, but the brand favoured by celebs like Rozanna Purcell and Glenda Gilson is definitely Great Lengths, applied by stylist to the stars Ceira Lambert at her salon in Sandyford, Caramelle. Prices are determined at a free consultation, but the results are clearly fabulous judging by the celebrity contingent. Glossy locks worthy of an A-lister are but a few strands away.

OTHER RECOMMENDED HAIR SALONS

DYLAN BRADSHAW 56 South William St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 671 9353, dylanbradshaw.com Don’t let the size of this massive salon fool you into thinking it’s a churn-emout factory. Dylan Bradshaw is one of Dublin’s most highly regarded hairdressers with a team of award-winning stylists. The facilities include a nail bar, make-up stations and a separate area for group pampering or private consultations.

LUNATIC FRINGE Level 2, 69 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 3766, lunaticfringe.ie

Lunatic Fringe specialises in alternative and directional styles, making it the perfect choice for those who want something a little different. This salon is regularly featured on Irish television and in fashion magazines.

HESSION HAIRDRESSING 108 Upper Drumcondra Road, Dublin 9 Tel: (01) 837 6265, hessionhairdressing.ie This multiple award-winning salon is regarded as one of the best on the north side of the city. Not the cheapest hairdresser in town, but devoted fans travel from all over Dublin to avail of their services.

SITSTIL 17 Drury Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 616 8887, sitstil.com Personal service sets SitStil apart. All hairdressers will consult you before chopping your crowning glory, but SitStil take it to a different level and will quiz you in detail making sure to come up with a style that suits your desires, your look and your lifestyle.

BEST MEN’S CUT

THE BUTCHER BARBER Johnson’s Court, Dublin 2 Tel: 083 355 1780 This recent addition to the Dublin 2 styling hub blends the worlds of barbershop and salon with sublime detail; complete with black and white tiles straight from the London Underground and the divine aroma of LS&B shampoo. It’s a place where men need not feel anxious at the outcome of their haircut, safe in the talented hands of down-to-earth stylists Emmett and Billy. A wash, cut and dry will cost you €30, but rest assured it is worth every cent.

FASH ION

BEST JEWELLERY RHINESTONES 18 Andrews St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 0759

If any shop truly deserves to be called a ‘treasure trove’ it is Rhinestones. The shop stocks antique jewellery as well as gorgeous costume pieces and whether you want something understated, like a cameo, or something much louder such as a tiara, this is the place to go. Prices range from the affordable to the expensive but the staff should be able to direct you to something that suits your budget.

WELDON’S 55 Clarendon St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 1638, weldons.ie

(from far left) Harlequin, Jenny Vader & Brown Sugar

BEST FOR NAILS

MINK HAND & FOOT SPA Salons in Donnybrook and Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 260 3076 (Donnybrook), (01) 636 2100 (Ballsbridge), mink.ie A favourite of magazine editors and yummy mummies alike, Mink is a luxury experience for hands and feet. Unlike most salons, these spas concentrate solely on hands and feet and offer services to both men and women. From a simple mani to a white chocolate and cranberry pedicure, this is the place to go if you want your extremities to be truly pampered. Mink have also recently added Artistic Colour Gloss Polish to their treatment list, which is the next generation in everlasting polishes, designed to last up to 21 days and available in a whole host of colours, including neons and glitters.

BEST SPA

SERENITY DAY SPA 55 Glasthule Road, Sandycove, Co. Dublin Tel: (01) 230 0255, serenityspa.ie Nuala Wolfe’s spa is an oasis in the middle of south Dublin, and everything you could possibly want for a day retreat. It offers treatments for skin and body, facials and massages and caters to men, women, mums and brides-to-be and everyone in between. As well as gorgeous spa treatments, you can also avail of regular beauty salon treatments like tanning, threading and mani-pedis. Above all, Serenity lives up to its name and is peaceful and tranquil throughout - you won’t hear your neighbour getting waxed through the walls. A place to relax, recharge and replenish without breaking the bank or travelling too far outside the city.

BEST HAIR AND MAKE-UP

BROWN SUGAR South William St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 616 9967, brownsugar.ie This salon has managed to survive the South William St. Nama exodus, and of all the businesses on hairdresser row, this is the one favoured by the rich and famous. When A-listers jet into town for a premiere or event, this is where they go for their hair and make-up. Perhaps most telling though, is that this is where the pros go for further training in hair styling and make-up artistry, and their loyal client base has remained faithful through these tough times. Besides the skills on offer, the salon itself looks really cool and has a buzzy, glamorous atmosphere. Definitely worth checking out if you’re looking for a makeover - these stylists are to be trusted with any cut or colour.

OTHER RECOMMENDED BEAUTY SALONS

THERAPIE CLINIC 8 – 9 Molesworth St, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 472 1222, therapieclinic.com Therapie may be specialists in laser hair removal but their list of services extend far beyond that. Services include skin treatments for all skin types and ages and body treatments such as cellulite busting and tattoo removal. BRAZILIA 50 South William St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 293 4858, brazilia.ie Given the name it is no surprise that Brazilia specialise in waxing. Catering for men and women, this salon will remove hair from any part of your body leaving you smooth and beautiful – at least for the next few weeks.

Founded in the 19th century, Weldon’s has been making generations of Irish women happy. This Dublin jeweller specialises in vintage and estate jewellery as well as pieces inspired by classic designs making it the perfect place to shop for something unique for yourself or a loved one.

DESIGNYARD 25 South Frederick St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 474 1011 designyardgallery.com

If contemporary design is more your style, Designyard is the place to source exciting and interesting pieces from some of Ireland’s most highly regarded jewellers. There is an eclectic mix of styles on offer and best of all, many of the pieces are surprisingly affordable.

WEIR & SONS 96 – 99 Grafton St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 9678, weirandsons.ie

It is impossible to walk past Weir & Sons without itching to put your credit card through its paces. This store specialises in an incredible array of jewellery for men and women. In addition to fine jewellery, Weir & Sons stocks gorgeous costume jewellery by designers such as Paul Costelloe that won’t break the bank.

DELPHI ANTIQUES Powerscourt Townhouse, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 0331, delphiantiques.com

Don’t walk into Delphi if you are in a rush – you’ll want to spend ages browsing their collection. While not just a jewellery store, Delphi does have a large collection of estate and antique jewellery making this an excellent place to search out beautiful and unusual pieces.

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A C LOS E S H AV E ! Being stylish has never been so manly. Gillette has unveiled a convenient new styling tool for men with facial hair - the Gillette Fusion ProGlide StylerTM The 3-in-1 styling tool is designed to help men trim evenly, shave closely and edge accurately. In the wake of this launch we decided to speak to local hirsute creatives about Dublin and their individual style.

DJ iZEM DJ and Producer “I love the seaside. Especially Dun Laoghaire, Killiney and Howth. I live near Bushy Park, and I love walking around there as well. Eclectic music is my thing Hip Hop, Soul and Dub mixed with Latin and Afro-rooted music. I like a lot of downtempo Electronica as well, and also some French or Brazilian singer-songwriters.

I don’t shop very often! I love to have new clothes but I’m too lazy to spend time in the shops. Plus I’m very selective so it takes me ages to ﬁnd something that I like.”

Dj iZem has a weekly show on Groovalizacion Radio. As well as a few festival slots, he regularly spins the decks at The Bernard Shaw pub. He released his ﬁrst EP last year and is currently working on his debut album.

MAX CARPIO

Musician with This Club “My favourite place in Dublin is a barber shop called ‘The Waldorf ’ on Westmoreland Street. It’s just a really nice, traditional place. There’s a nice feeling to it. They know what suits you and you’ll always leave feeling like the cat’s pajamas! I go there before photo-shoots or videos and my friend Linda runs it, she knows exactly how I like my hair cut. I have quite a colourful style really, colourful but comfortable. I try to keep it cheap and cheerful, and so does the rest of the band. We all wear light clothes because we’re always jumping around the place and sweating a lot!”

Max is drummer and vocalist of This Club. Their album Highlife is out now.

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serious characters to be found in the inner city and I’ve never met any other nationality with a sense of humour like ours. I like to wander around and take photos too. I like the energy and vibe of Temple Bar, you’d be surprised what you ﬁnd when you just stop for a minute and look around. There’s more to Dublin than the tourist hot spots. I’m usually rambling around in Jeans or Chinos but lately I’ve been rocking shorts, regardless of the rain! Myself and the band are always getting funny looks turning up to cold, wet festivals in shorts and t-shirts but they’re comfortable and show off a bit of leg! Everyone loves a bit of hairy leg now and again, don’t they?”

SEAN ARKINS

Musician with The Original Rudeboys “My favourite thing about Dublin is deﬁnitely the people. There are some

The Original Rudeboys are currently playing festivals across Ireland and England. They’ve had the pleasure of supporting some huge names like 50 Cent, The Game, Professor Green, Damien Dempsey, Sinead O’ Connor and Aslan.

SHANE GILLEN Mentalist / Magician

“What do I like about Dublin? Cassidy’s Bar on Westmoreland Street is a great place for Guinness. South William Street has a really nice vibe too, especially in Summertime. I think it should be pedestrianised though, it would look even better then. As far as style goes, I love clothes and I’m always shopping. It depends what I’m doing, but I usually go for a more casual style. There’s a new men’s shop called Genius after opening where you can get really good brands like G-Star. My beard is a bit high-maintenance. I tried to grow a full-on beard recently but it just went patchy and looked ridiculous. So I keep it trimmed now, and I shave my neck too.”

Shane is currently training for a 450 mile

cycle across Madagascar, visiting orphanages along the way, in an expedition he’s calling ‘Magicgascar’. See him working his magic at 10 Days In Dublin from July 5 – 11.

A NEW TOOL FOR MEN WHO STYLE THEIR FACIAL HAIR Gillette Fusion ProGlide StylerTM is a 3-in-1 styling tool designed to help men with facial hair trim evenly, shave closely and edge accurately. This new tool leverages top technology from two of P&G’s most powerful male brands including a Braun-engineered trimmer and Gillette’s most advanced razor blades to help men master their facial hair style with ease.

achieve incredible closeness and comfort

The Fusion ProGlide StylerTM features: · Fusion ProGlide Blades, Gillette’s most advanced razor blade technology, helping men

· A compact handle with Ergonomic Grips for maximum control, maneuverability and visibility while trimming, shaving and edging

· A Braun-Engineered Power Trimmer with three slim combs that maneuver effortlessly through hair, trimming evenly at three custom lengths · A Precision Edging Blade that helps sculpt crisp, accurate and deﬁned facial hair lines

In In conjunction with the Fusion ProGlide StylerTM launch, Gillette® will introduce Fusion ProGlide Clear Shave Gel, a non-foaming shave gel with a distinctly masculine fragrance that allows men to see where to trim and edge their facial hair accurately. The Gillette Fusion ProGlide StylerTM and Fusion ProGlide Clear Shave Gel is available from all leading retailers.

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YOUR FEELGOOD GUIDE TO DUBLIN

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Whether you are looking to escape a hangover, lose some weight, increase core fitness or embark on an extreme work-out, we could all use a little more health and wellness in our lives. Victoria Mary Clarke writer, adventurer and angel channeler - shares her recommendations for feeling fitter.

Victoria Mary Clarke

BEST OUTDOOR YOGA Dartmouth Square Yoga Ranelagh, Dublin 6 Twitter: @DartmouthSquare

BEST YOGA STUDIO The Yoga Room 262 Merrion Rd, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 219 6666, yoga.ie Dublin in recent years has almost as many yoga studios as pubs, so competition is fierce and the quality pretty good. The Yoga Room on Merrion Road has been one of the best since it opened in 2005. The room is warm and bright, there is a pretty Zen garden that looks good even when it’s raining, the toilet has underfloor heating and Ciara Cronin and Michael Ryan the husband and wife team who own and run it are two of the best and most popular teachers in town.

BEST YOGA TEACHER Choosing a ‘best’ yoga teacher is like trying to choose a ‘best’ piece of music. Not possible. Dublin has many, many great yoga teachers. If you have time, try all of them. If you have to pick one, try Michael Ryan at The Yoga Room (see above) His style readily adapts to all levels, and he pays particular attention to the proper alignment in the poses, so beginners are safe in his hands. He also gives a wonderfully inspiring philosophical talk at the start of the class, which convinces you that there is more to yoga than just being bendy.

Obviously the Irish weather doesn’t always facilitate outdoor yoga, but every Saturday morning, rain or shine, there is a yoga class in Dartmouth Square, open to all and it is only €5. There are different teachers every week, so you can get to try Dublin’s best yoga teachers for very little money. On a wet day you can wear a wet suit. On a really wet day, they move indoors to a nearby church hall. Runs: Saturday mornings, 11am-12.30

BEST HEALTH FOOD STORE Restore Health Food Store & Clinic 67 Camden St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 475 9847 Health Food shops can be miniature minefields, even for the hypochondriacs among us, and we can all do with a bit of help with choosing the right vitamins/ minerals/whatever. Julie Owens, who runs Restore, will go out of her way to help you find what you need in her shop and if she doesn’t have it, she will be happy to order it. Not only that, she has a bizarre habit of offering to charge you less than you owe, and tossing in the odd freebie as well. Upstairs, she runs an alternative health clinic. She also gives free meditation classes on Wednesdays, at lunchtime.

BEST FOR HEALTHY JUICES Select Stores 1 Railway Road, Dalkey Co. Dublin You actually have to travel to Dalkey to try the juice, but the Dart trip is well worth it and very scenic. The Select Stores do an astoundingly delicious assortment of fruit and vegetable concoctions, with all kinds of added ingredients, and they blend them with specific ailments in mind. They also

have amazing soups, salads and desserts and a lovely grocery store.

BEST PHYSIOTHERAPIST Kevin O Toole Fitzwilliam Health Clinic, 19 Fitzwilliam Square Sout, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661 8949, fitzwilliamhealth.ie. When you find yourself in knots, in agony and unable to move and you need a really decent massage, not just something superficial, but one that actually does the job, Kevin is your only man. Specialising in sports injuries and Sciatica, he may well make you scream out loud while you are on the table, but the next day you feel absolutely brand new. Plus he plays nice music.

BEST SHAMANIC HEALER Nigel McFarland Dalkey Tel: 087 671 5373, nigel. mcfarland.37@facebook.com If you want to be reconnected with the very deepest aspect of your being, and you are happy to have someone make very strange noises while they work on you, you could do worse than to have a shamanic healing with Nigel McFarland, a multi-talented practitioner who hails from Omagh. Working on all the different levels of your existence, he also does raw food and nutritional advice, emotional release retreats, a sublime massage and a great wheat grass colonic. Shane Mac Gowan says it is better than drugs.

BEST ORGANIC FOOD MARKET Dublin Food Co-Op 12 Newmarket, Dublin 8. Tel: (01) 454 4258, dublinfood.coop A one-stop shop for all your organic fruit and veg, much of which is actually grown in Ireland. You can also get your recycled toilet rolls, organic toothpaste,

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•DUBLIN GYMS• SWAN LEISURE CENTRE Rathmines Square, Lower Rathmines Road, Rathmines, Dublin 6 Tel: (01) 496 7908, swanleisure.ie

More than a gym the Swan Leisure Centre is something of a temple to health and fitness, complete with a fully equipped gym and a 25-metre pool. The special classes run the gamut from A to Z – literally. Everything from aqua aerobics to zumba dance classes are on offer, as well as personal training sessions for the serious enthusiast. Membership costs €30 per month or €6 pay as you go.

BEN DUNNE GYMS Various locations, Dublin Web: bendunnegyms.com raw chocolate, spelt bread and every other household item that you might need. You can also get organic, Irish-made clothes, soap, candles, herbal tinctures, crafts and jewelry. There is a fabulous range of hot food in the café, try the pizza. The other nice thing about this place is that it is under cover, so you don’t need to get wet, and there is plenty of parking. Open: Saturdays 9.30am – 4.30pm, Thursdays 12 noon – 8pm.

BEST PLACE TO MEET PEOPLE/BE INSPIRED Buddha Bag Meeting Oscailt, 8 Baggot Lane, Dublin 4 Web: buddhabag.org If you want to meet like-minded souls who are also into holistic healing/meditation/ positive vibes, you need to get yourself down to the Buddha Bag meeting, where every Thursday at 8pm they have a different guest speaker to inspire you with their discoveries, and where you can meet and make friends with lovely people, all for only €15. Thursday evenings, 8pm

BEST ALCOHOL-FREE DANCE The Funky Seomra RDS Concert Hall, Ballsbridge Tel: 086 122 0939, dancefree.ie If you love to dance and to party and to meet attractive, healthy people, but you don’t want to be in a drunken, messy, alcohol-fuelled scene, then the Funky Seomra is the place for you. Sort of like a mini indoor hippy festival, once a month in this very beautiful concert hall at the Royal Dublin Society, these guys play great dance music and around 400 people turn up. They also have various chill-out zones with massage and live music and healing, as well as pop-up cafés serving delicious veggie food, smoothies, juices and chai lattes. Entrance fee is €15, takes place monthly.

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The Ben Dunne fitness empire keeps growing apace. In Dublin alone there are five: Westpoint near the Blanchardstown Centre; Northwood near Santry; Carlisle on the Southside; Jervis St. in the city centre; and Sandyford in, you guessed it, Sandyford. As well as the usual bag of tricks, the larger gyms have Jacuzzis and 25-metre pools. There are free classes on offer too including yoga, spinning, aerobics and more. Membership prices vary from €210 to €265 per annum.

LIVING WELL The Hilton Hotel, Kilmainham, Dublin 8 Web: livingwell.com

Fancy a fully air-conditioned gym with pool, sauna and spa? Of course you do. Living Well may not be Dublin’s cheapest gym, but full membership has significant benefits such as free personalised oneto-one sessions, free group classes, complimentary towels and toiletries and ongoing expert advice. They are so confident you’ll love it, the gym is currently offering a three-day free trial. Membership costs €50 per month or €495 per year.

TONEZONE National Aquatic Centre, Snugborough Road, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15 Tel: (01) 646 4300, tonezone.ie

ToneZone at the National Aquatic Centre is regarded as one of the best gyms in the city. ToneZone uses the Activio Fitness System to get heart rate monitoring feedback during training. The Irish rugby team use Activio Fitness and if it’s good enough for them... There are over 40 free classes weekly and a sauna, steam room and spa. It costs €475 per year, but drops to €280 for off-peak membership.

1ESCAPE Block G, Smithfield Market, Dublin 7 Tel: (01) 485 0700, oneescape.ie

1Escape may not be the cheapest, but it is

certainly one of the most luxurious gyms in Dublin with a lovely Scandanavian log cabin sauna and scented steam room. Big draws include the hydrorider – essentially spinning but in the pool, offering a full body work out with less sweat and highaltitude training for serious fitness junkies. Prices range from €40 to €79 per month.

MARKIEVICZ LEISURE CENTRE Townsend Street, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 222 6130, dublincity.ie

The Markievicz Leisure Centre has scooped up several Ilam White Flag leisure industry awards. The centre offers a pool, swimming lessons for adults and children, a fully equipped gym as well as fitness programmes and studio classes. It’s a great option for non-regular gym goers as it costs between €6 to €6.60 per visit and a mere €4.50 for students.

IVEAGH FITNESS Christchurch, Dublin 8 Tel: (01) 454 6555, iveaghfitness.ie

With lovely high ceilings and plenty of natural light, Iveagh Fitness is certainly a nice location in which to get sweaty. There is plenty on offer including personal training, a free weights area, cardiovascular and strength and resistance training and a swimming pool to cool down after. Potential members can book a free trial before making any commitments. Membership costs between €32 and €70 per month.

FLYE FIT 28-36 Ranelagh Road, Dublin 6 Web: flyefit.ie

Flye Fit in Ranelagh is a ‘supergym’ with state-of-the art fitness equipment such as RealRyder, a fitness bike that tilts and leans just like a regular one. The gym also uses ‘virtual active’ equipment with interactive cinema quality workouts, so it feels like you are exercising in some gorgeous or exotic locale instead of the more prosaic surrounds of Dublin 6. Membership is a very reasonable €29 per month with no contract.

TRINITY COLLEGE SPORTS CENTRE Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 896 1000 tcd.ie/Sport Not just for students, the Trinity College Sports Centre is open to the public. Joe Soap can use the facilities for €395 annually plus an initial joining fee of €70; graduates get away with just €280 per year plus the same joining fee. The centre offers a fitness theatre, climbing wall, classes, treatment room, cycling studio, resistance training, martial arts room, swimming pool and squash courts.

my DUBL IN

RUTH SCOTT. DJ What do you like best about Dublin? I love that there’s always something on and that I can meet my mates for a quiet drink in a city centre old-man’s pub or in a heaving noisy place. Many of my close friends live in Dublin so there’s always someone a 30-minute Luas ride away. Best outdoors place? I’ve been doing Fitsquad classes

in the Phoenix Park and it’s an extraordinary surroundings. However my favourite spot at the momemt is the Memorial Gardens. It overlooks the Liffey and the UCD rowing club. I just go into zone-out mode when I’m there. Dublin’s best restaurant? That’s like asking me to pick my favourite child! There are so many restaurants opening up I could spend my life trying new places. At

the moment, it’s Wagamama and I dabble in a bit of vegetarianism so I’m often in Cornucopia. Dublin’s best bar? I’m a big fan of Keoghs. You won’t find the shiny chrome surroundings there. It’s more spit and sawdust – to the best of my knowledge, neither of those things have ever been spotted there but it has that feel to it. All sorts of skulduggery can be conducted in the little nooks and crannies! Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? I’m a regular supermarket visitor but when in the city centre, I always go to the Asian shop on Jervis St. Where do you shop for clothes? I’m a sucker for Penneys, and always like to have a look at A-Wear. I’ve started finding a surprising selection of funky tops in Carraig Donn. I like Esprit, H&M, Mexx and the Laundry Room in Dundrum Town Centre. Favourite Dublin building? My favourite building in Dublin is

the Royal Hospital in Kilmainham, which is close to where I live. I get excited when I see it feature as sets on TV shows or films. Opening scene of The Tudors – boo ya! Your Dublin music? I went to Westlife’s last night in Croke Park recently. Amazing vibe. I also have a not-so-secret hankering for musicals so I’ll be at every opening night in the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? I love where I live in Dublin 8. There’s good public transport, the Memorial Gardens are just down the road, the Phoenix Park is across the river, the canal is great for strolls and I have loads of friends living nearby. Your Dublin hero? Whoever it was that decided that we should have a bike scheme in the city. Tune in to Ruth Scott every weekend on RTÉ 2fm: Paddy & Ruth, Saturdays, 4pm – 7pm, Sundays, 2pm – 5pm.

CMY

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DUBLIN’S BEST MARKETS Dublin is in the grip of Market Fever. You’ll find interesting traders across the county, whether you are looking for an organic falafel burger, the best of Irish artisan produce or just a quick fashion bargain. To get you started, here are the coolest markets of the moment...

COPPINGER ROW OUTDOOR FOOD MARKET 086 815 0836 Stalls offer a variety of wares from craft jewelry to olives, from cakes to organic fruit and veg and even crepes. It’s been running two years and the organisers are so pleased with its success that they are planning on opening the market on Fridays and Saturdays too. Watch this space. Thursdays from 11 am to 7 pm IRISH VILLAGE MARKETS: LUNCHTIME MARKETS (01) 284 1197 irishvillagemarkets.ie Located around the city, these vibrant lunchtime markets pop up once a week to offer hungry workers a break from their usual fare. On a sunny day, the markets along the Grand Canal (Mespil Road on Thursdays and at the junction of Northumberland Road and Percy Place on Fridays) make Dublin look like the south of France. Also at Christ Church Cathedral Thursdays and Saturdays, Stillorgan Tuesdays and Blanchardstown Thursdays. TEMPLE BAR MARKETS (01) 677 2255 templebar.ie/MarketLending Temple Bar has three outdoor markets. The Temple Bar Food Market runs every Saturday in Meeting House Square. It is a heady mix of hot and cold gourmet foods, flowers, fruit and veg. The Temple Bar Book Market, every Saturday and Sunday on (obviously enough) Temple Bar Square, is a delightful way to spend an hour browsing titles old and new in the hope of alighting on a long lost surprise. And those who are interested in handmade craft and design from Irish-based creators should visit the Designer Mart at Cow’s Lane, which runs every Saturday. Here you can browse clothing, jewellery and art with a unique twist.

WORDS: Monica PHOTOS:

Heck

Marit Ehmke & Ruth Medjber

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THE SUNDAY MARKET IN DÚN LAOGHAIRE dunlaoire.com/sundaymarket For an idyllic Sunday, head to Dún Laoghaire and visit the People’s Park for the food and craft market. It runs from 11am – 4pm and boasts a selection of international and Irish foods. Grab your lunch there and head down the pier to enjoy your food by the sea.

THE ORGANIC FOOD MARKET, DÚN LAOGHAIRE’S MARINE ROAD dunlaoghaire.ie/coco-market Lovers of fresh bread and homemade jams should visit this lovely organic food market. Every Friday at the top of Marine Road, Dún Laoghaire. FARMLEIGH (01) 815 5900, farmleigh.ie Farmleigh House and Estate runs regular food markets and other events on the beautiful grounds of the estate. The food markets are on a monthly schedule, listed on the website. There are markets August 5 and 6 and September 2. The annual Plant Fair is held on August 5. This fifth edition will bring together a host of specialist growers from all over the country. Visitors can see an extensive range of special and exotic plants for sale. Marie Staunton will be giving two talks as a guest celebrity gardener. RED STABLES FOOD MARKET IN ST. ANNE’S PARK dublincity.ie/recreationandculture/artsoffice/ theredstables The Red Stables is a Victorian two-story building that has been restored by Dublin City Council. It’s located in located in St. Anne’s Park, which is a great place to spend an afternoon. The addition of a food market at the Red Stables has added an extra amenity to this historic location. Running every Saturday from 10am – 5pm (4pm in winter), the market offers a mix of hot and cold food along with crafts. MOORE STREET MARKET The Moore Street Market is a landmark of Dublin’s north inner city. Offering fruit and veg among other products, it has been

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myDU B LI N traditionally renowned for the shouts of vendors touting their wares.

MARLAY PARK MARKET dlrcoco.ie Local producers gather behind Marlay House in the scenic Marlay Park in the south of Dublin every Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 4pm. On offfer is a mix of artisan produce, including speciality and ethic foods as well as crafts. THE DUBLIN FOOD CO-OP (01) 454 4258, dublinfood.coop An indoor farmer’s market run as a co-operative and specialising in organic, local and fair-trade products. Opens twice a week, Saturdays (from 9.30am – 4.30pm) and Thursdays (from 12pm – 8pm). On sale: a mix of wholefood, produce from members’ stalls, as well as a café and a social hub. The premises are also hired out to four independent

Sunday market events: the Vintage Fair is on the first Sunday of the month, Fusion Sundays, an international culture market, is on the second Sunday, The Brocante Market is on the third and the famous Dublin Flea Market is on the fourth Sunday of the month. IRISH FARMERS MARKET, HOWTH 086 250 0284 irishfarmersmarkets.ie/category/ howth The Irish Farmers’ Market group hosts three markets around Dublin, including a Sunday and bank holiday Monday farmer’ market in Howth. The Howth market is their biggest one, offering a mix of food, jewellery and even handmade chocolates. It’s located opposite Howth Harbour. The group also runs markets on a Thursday on Harcourt Street and Fridays in Leopardstown (10am – 4pm)

“My favourite Dublin musician? Ronnie Drew!”

SHAY HEALY SONGWRITER What do you like best about Dublin? Its size. Best outdoors place? The South Wall. Dublin’s best restaurant? The Trocadero. Dublin’s best bar? Neary’s. Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? Judy Moynihan’s vegetable garden. Where do you shop for clothes?

TK Maxx. Favourite Dublin building? Sam Stephenson’s Central Bank. Your Dublin music? Ronnie Drew, ‘The Twangman’. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? Sandymount. Your Dublin hero? Mannix Flynn. When you’re with friends in Dublin what do you like to do? Have a good sneer.

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DUBLINʼS BEST TOURS Joyce said it was impossible to tour Dublin without passing a pub. Today it is pretty difficult to cross the city without encountering a tour guide. There is an endless supply of people waiting to tell you stories and a multitude of ways to see the city. To point you in the right direction we have chosen the best ways to get to know Dublin that little bit better....

HISTORICAL WALKING TOURS OF DUBLIN Tel: 087 688 9412, historicalinsights.ie This two-hour tour, run by history graduates of Trinity College, is for those who want to understand the history of Ireland and how the past formed the country we now live in. The tour visits key landmarks such as Dublin Castle, Christ Church Cathedral, the Four Courts and Temple Bar and covers major historical topics such as the development of Dublin, the Famine, the 1916 Rising, the War of Independence, right up to the Northern Ireland peace process. Tickets: Adults: €12, €10 for students and seniors. Runs: Summer (May - September) daily 11am and 3pm. April and October daily 11am. Winter (Nov - March) Friday, Saturday and Sunday at 11am.

DUBLIN SIGHTSEEING TOURS WITH DUBLIN BUS Tel: (01) 703 3028 , dublinsightseeing.ie A hop-on hop-off tour run by Dublin’s public transit carrier. It’s a comfortable way of accessing a large number of Dublin’s main attractions such as Dublin Zoo, the National Gallery and Kilmainham Gaol and cover longer distances from the north inner city to the Liberties. An Official Tour CD is available from the booking office for those who want a musical souvenir. The ticket is valid for two days. Runs: 9am – 6.30pm every 10/15 minutes. The full tour lasts 1h 30min approx, but visitors can hop on or off the bus at their convenience. Entrance to attractions is not included. However, discounts are available on entry fees to some of the most popular attractions. Tickets: Adults €18, students and seniors €16, children 5-14 €8. A 15% discount applies when bookings are made online.

VIKING SPLASH TOURS Tel: (01) 707 6000, vikingsplash.com

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Monica Heck

It’s such a simple concept. You fill a bright yellow amphibious war ship, plonk Viking hats on everyone’s heads, take them back through time and give them an alternative take on Dublin history through the eyes of a Nordic marauder. What’s more, everyone is ordered to revert to childhood and to direct a collective Viking roar on every man, woman and child not on board the ship: thus the innocent bystander becomes the enemy, is roared at and spills his cappuccino. Slapstick fun aside, the tour is comprehensive and hits all the major landmarks. The drivers deliver a very

entertaining script, which sometimes gets a tad ‘oirish’ depending on the amount of tourists on board. And the land-towater gear changes as the tour dives into the Dublin Docklands can’t fail to pique the curiosity of even the most skeptical of passengers… you know, the ones who refused to wear those childish horned hats in the first place. Tickets: Adults: €20, students: €18, children: (3 to 12) €10, family: (2 adults 3 children) €60. Group and tour operators available. Ticket purchase either online, over the phone or at the departure point at St. Stephen’s Green North. Advance booking recommended.

DUBLIN ART TOUR BY ART FOR ART’S SAKE Tel: 086 165 3193, artforartsake.org Founded by young Irish artist Jennette Donnelly who felt the art scene in Ireland needed a bit of momentum in these recessionary times, Art For Art’s Sake was launched as an online virtual gallery to promote the work of emerging and contemporary artists with links to Ireland. Alongside the virtual gallery, Jennette decided to launch what she believes to be Ireland’s first Art Tour in 2012. This walking guided tour runs for a whole Saturday afternoon through Dublin city. Each tour visits between eight and ten galleries, a mix of established, new and non-profit locations including The Lab on Foley St., the Chester Beatty Library, BLOCK T in Smithfield, the Icon Factory and the Irish Museum of Modern Art. Runs: Every second Saturday. Free, but donations welcome. Times: 12pm – 5pm or 6pm. Meeting point: Outside the ticket desk at Connolly Station.

DUBLIN LITERARY PUB CRAWL Tel: (07) 670 5602, dublinpubcrawl.com Following the footsteps of Joyce, Behan, Flann O’Brien and Patrick Kavanagh, this walking tour takes anyone with a keen ear for literature around the historic pubs of Dublin. Starting at the Duke pub, two actors give performances and anecdotes along the way, quoting from the greats to give an understanding of pub culture and its link to literature. Runs: Every evening during the summer, four nights a week during winter. Tickets: Adults: €12, students: €10. Book online. Limited tickets available on the door at 7pm. Times: 7.30pm, lasts approx two hours, 15 mins.

DUBLIN CITY BIKE TOURS Tel: 087 134 1866, dublincitybiketours.com Seeing Dublin by bike can be done through Dublin City Bike Tours, who offer an easy two to three-hour cycling tour of Dublin, which aims to take in numerous sights of

O U T D OORS interest in the capital. Bikes, helmets, safety training and even snacks are provided. Minimum two participants. March – November. Tickets: Adults: €24, students & seniors: €20. Booking recommended. Departure point: Isaac’s Hostel near the central bus station.

SEGWAY TOURS IN DUBLIN Tel: (01) 822 3388,glidetours.ie GlideTours are offering a new way of visiting Dublin aboard the curious Segway, described as a self-balancing personal transportation device. Two tours are currently available, a glide through the Phoenix Park or the Docklands. Tickets: €50 per person. Tour lasts two hours and runs every day, three times a day. Participants must weigh over 45kg (100lbs). Segway gift vouchers available. Secure online booking.

ARCHITECTURE TOURS IRELAND Tel: (01) 676 1703, architecturetours.ie This joint enterprise between the Royal Institute of the Architects of Ireland and the Irish Architecture Foundation has been running for just two years. Visitors can pick between walking tours of Georgian Dublin, the Dublin Docklands, Temple Bar and the Living City delivered by a guide specialising in architecture. Minimum four, maximum 25 participants. Four different tours every Saturday and Sunday except Christmas and New Year. Tickets: Adults: €11.50, children: (over 12) €6.50, concession: €9.50. Duration: 1h 30mins.

TOUR OF CROKE PARK Tel: (01) 819 2323, skylinecrokepark.ie The Etihad Skyline tour of Croke Park stadium is Dublin’s newest offering, a stroll 44m above the ground to view the panorama of Dublin and find out more about the capital’s key landmarks. The tour promises five stops at viewing platforms along the walk as well as the possibility to venture above the Croke Park pitch on a suspended walkway.

The Viking Splash Tour

Runs every day at fixed times (except on match days or other events). Tickets: Adults: €25, children: €15, students: €20, families: (two adults, two children) €65. Advance online booking is recommended. Tours start at the GAA Museum at the Cusack Stand side of Croke Park.

This tour of one the largest unoccupied gaols in Europe with such historic significance to Ireland and its struggles is bound to stay in the visitor’s mind long after he has walked free.

Guided tour only. Tickets: Adults €6, children/students: €2, senior citizens: €4, families: €14. One hour duration, maximum 45 to 50 people per group.

GLASNEVIN CEMETERY Tel: (01) 882 6500, glasnevintrust.ie It’s hardly common knowledge that Yoko Ono counts Daniel O’Connell among her biggest inspirations, or at least it wasn’t until she popped into Glasnevin Cemetery in June to visit the political leader’s crypt. Granted, a stroll around a Northside burial ground might not be everyone’s idea of a good time, but remember, the 124-acre graveyard is home to some very famous bones; it’s the final resting place of Charles Stewart Parnell, Michael Collins, Éamon de Valera, Maude Gonne, Constance Markievicz and Christy Brown. Opening hours: Monday to Friday, 10am to 5pm, Saturday, Sunday and Bank Holidays, 11am to 5pm.

KILMAINHAM JAIL Tel: (01) 453 5984 heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/ kilmainhamgaol

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DUBLIN’S BEST SHOPPING Decorate your home, pick out some new outfits or browse through your favourite books and music with our handy guide to the city’s leading stores.

MUSIC SHOPS

In addition to being the home of numerous big names in the rock world, Dublin was once described as being “a city of a thousand bands” (although that is probably an underestimate given the numbers of young and not so young, hopefuls lugging guitars, amps and sundry other instruments around the city.) No surprises then that there is no shortage of musical instrument and equipment stores to satisfy the needs of even the most demanding of musicians.

X MUSIC Red Cow Retail Centre, Dublin 22 Tel: (01) 411 1100, xmusic.ie The country’s largest music superstore X Music stock all the top brands of guitars, drums, keyboards and equipment, as well as offering a comprehensive repair service. The store is located on the outskirts of the city at the intersection of the M50 and N7 intersection and is conveniently on the Luas (Tram) Red Line. WALTON’S MUSIC 69 South Great George’s St., Dubin 2 Tel: (01) 475 0661, waltons.ie Established in the 1920s and still run by the same family, Walton’s has long been synonymous with Dublin. Their George’s St. store featured in the Oscar-winning movie Once (starring Glen Hansard). Along with all the leading brands of instruments, Waltons also produce Irish tin whistles and bodhrans as well as publishing their own music books. There’s also a branch in North Frederick St. PERFECT PITCH 35 Exchequer St., Dublin 2, Tel: (01) 677 1553, perfectpitch.ie Located just a short stroll from Grafton St., Perfect Pitch are recognised as experts in guitars at all price points They are also the long established as the leading Dublin outlet for C.F. Martin Guitars, one of the world’s most renowned and prestigious brands of acoustics.

DIY

From painting and decorating to tiling and gardening, more and more people these days are going down the DIY route. “Doing it yourself ” is not only a money-saving activity, it can be a lot of fun too, with a huge sense of satisfaction from carrying out improvements to your own home or garden.

PHOTOS:

Marit Ehmke & Ruth Medjber 094

WOODIES DIY AND GARDEN CENTRES Glasnevin, Coolock, Blanchardstown, Carrickmines, Tallaght, Lucan, Sallynoggin,

Sandyford and Swords (two stores) Tel: (01) 807 9101, woodies.ie Woodies is a 100% Irish owned D.I.Y. store, with ten branches in the greater Dublin area, offering a vast range of paints, lighting, homestyle, bathroom accessories, housewares, building and gardening products. B&Q Liffey Valley, Swords, Tallaght Tel: 1800 818 950, diy.com The leading home improvement and garden centre retailer in Europe and the third largest in the world, B&Q operate three stores in Dublin, offering everything needed to successfully realise your home improvement and D.I.Y. ambitions. B&Q also offers a full design consultation service and installation and D.I.Y. advice.

HOMEWARES & FURNITURE

With a population of over a million and a high home ownership rate, Dubliners are house proud (and still more than a little property obsessed!) Furnishing and decorating your home to the highest possible standard is a popular and ongoing pastime for Dubliners – and there are plenty of choices to hand.

MEADOWS & BYRNE The Pavilion, Royal Marine Road, Dún Laoghaire, Co. Dublin Tel: (01) 280 4554, meadowsandbyrne.com Founded in 1993 with stores around Ireland, Meadows & Byrne offer an impressive range of contemporary affordable homewares and furniture. The store is popular with interior designers and with those looking for something a little unusual for the house or apartment.

IKEA DUBLIN St Margaret’s Road, Ballymun, Dublin 11 Tel: 1890 987 938, ikea.ie The Swedish ﬂat-pack giants arrived in Dublin a couple of years ago. Ikea offers a wide range of well-designed, functional, home furnishing and storage products at reasonable prices at their huge store located about ﬁve miles outside the city on the M50. STOCK DESIGN 33 - 34 South King St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 4317 Located in the heart of Dublin, just off Grafton St., Stock is well established as a great place to go for smaller items such as crockery, glassware, tableware, cookery supplies and high quality designer home items, including clocks, mirrors and rugs. Very popular with wedding present shoppers!

SHO PPING

DEPARTMENT STORES

Despite the huge growth in suburban shopping centres, Dublin City remains the best bet for a total shopping experience. Offering a wide-ranging mix of ﬂagship department stores, well-known international high street chains and local stores that are often family run – and with lots of good restaurants and cafés to stop off in – there is nothing to beat the city centre of Dublin for a real day-long shopping blitz.

CLERY’S 18-27 Lower O’Connell St, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 878 6000, clerys.ie One of the world’s first purpose-built department stores, Clery’s opened for business on Dublin’s main street back in 1853. Over the years since it has witnessed many of the most significant events in Irish history, including the 1916 Rising, and is a listed building due to its architectural significance and historic role in the city. A lot of the main mid-price brands in women’s fashion are represented here and all aspects of home furnishing are covered including carpets.

ARNOTT’S 12 Henry St., Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 805 0400, arnotts.ie Another store with a long history in the capital, Arnott’s is also the largest department store in Dublin. Its ﬂagship store is located on Henry St. just behind the G.P.O., and runs right across to Abbey St. It boasts a vast range of departments, including mens and women’s fashions, homeware, kids’ department, electronics, carpets and furniture. There is a strong technology section that is worth checking out when you are in the market for anything techie.

BROWN THOMAS Grafton St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 605 6666, brownthomas.com Opened by haberdashers and general drapers, Hugh Brown and James Thomas on Grafton St. in 1849, Brown Thomas has since become a destination for both Irish and international fashionistas. The last word in luxury retailing in Dublin, Brown Thomas is internationally acclaimed for its award-winning window displays, renowned fashion shows, exclusive product launches and unique luxury boutiques. It offers a really representative selection of the best in high-end contemporary fashion, with all the prestige labels represented.

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SHOPPIN G hallway just a few steps away from Grafton St., this unique store offers an impressive range of second-hand books, with an emphasis on popular culture titles, as well as music (including vinyl), all under the same roof.

BOOKS UPSTAIRS 36 College Green, Dublin 2 (01) 679 6687 One of Dublin’s best specialist book shops, Books Upstairs is handily located across the road from Trinity College. They are particularly strong on feminist, gay, lesbian and counter-cultural books in general, as well as psychology and philosophy. You can also be sure to pick up some gems at reduced prices.

CHAPTERS BOOKSTORE Ivy Exchange, Parnell St., Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 872 3297, chapters.ie

Books Upstairs

BOOKSHOPS

With the possible exception of Dublin’s pubs, the city’s bookshops deﬁne the literary spirit and atmosphere of the capital better than anything else. Despite the increasing competition from online retailers and the growth of e-reading, Dublin still boasts some of the ﬁnest bookstores of any city in the world with many rare and long out of print titles available alongside the latest bestsellers. Conscious of the changing nature of retailing, many Dublin bookstores also offer coffee and other refreshments within their stores to smooth your journey of literary discovery.

EASONS O’Connell St., Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 844 8888, easons.com The flagship outlet of over 60 stores throughout Ireland, the O’Connell Street branch of Easons is a national institution, outside which southsiders have met off buses into town for generations. Inside is a vast bookshop, with four shopping floors, reading areas and the Muse Café combining to create an environment that’s full of interest and surprises. Famous for their high-profile book signings, in addition to their books, Easons stock by far the biggest range of newspapers and magazines in Ireland, as well as greeting cards, stationery, toys, computer accessories and, in the branch of Tower Records upstairs, CDs, DVDs and lots more music products. Eason’s bustling sister shop of Reads on Nassau St. is also well worth checking out , for cut price books if you are in that vicinity.

THE WINDING STAIR BOOKSHOP 40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 872 6576, winding-stair.com One of the oldest surviving independent

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bookshops in Dublin, the Winding Stair has a unique atmosphere, making it a supremely relaxed haven in the centre of the bustling city. The front part of the shop holds new books, while the smaller section at the back offers second-hand books. The store serves tea and coffee at the two coffee tables in the front window and you can even have a glass of wine if it takes your fancy!

HODGES FIGGIS 56 – 58 Dawson St., Dublin 2 Tel: (0)1 677 4754 Hodges Figgis is one of the great Dublin institutions. With the demise of Waterstone’s they now have Dawson St. to themselves. It is a big shop with a phenomenal number of titles, across a multiplicity of subjects, disciplines and ﬂoors. They are very strong on books of Irish interest, as well as carrying a huge stock of quality literary and genre ﬁction. They have a loyalty card scheme that reduces the cost of regular purchasing. If you love books, a couple of hours spent here will be hugely rewarding.

THE GUTTER BOOKSHOP Cow’s Lane, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 9206 An independent bookshop situated in the Old City part of Dublin’s popular Temple Bar area, The Gutter offers a wide range of titles, including some great children’s books. Winners of the ‘Independent Booksellers of the Year’ award for 2012, the shop prides itself on being able to track down hard to ﬁnd and out of print tomes. They also do gifts and stationery.

THE SECRET BOOK & RECORD STORE 15a Wicklow St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 679 7272 A hidden gem located at the end of a long

The largest independent bookstore in Ireland, Chapters is a haven for book lovers and anyone looking for moleskines to doodle in. There are two stores, with the upstairs boasting a massive selection of second-hand books, generally for a fiver. If you can’t find a used copy, then downstairs is home to a fantastic number of titles, all new and reasonably priced. It’s the type of sprawling archive that will swallow hours of your life – pleasurably of course.

DUBLIN ON THE PAGE There’s more to Dublin literature than Joyce... Here’s the best 20 books of fiction, set in Dublin, that are not called Dubliners or Ulysses... The Gingerman: JP Donleavy The Commitments: Roddy Doyle The Orange Mocha-Chip Frappuccino Years: Ross O’Carroll Kelly My Left Foot: Christy Browne More Pricks Than Kicks: Samuel Beckett At Swim Two Birds: Flann O’Brien The Scarperer: Brendan Behan The Very Man: Chris Binchy The Red & The Green: Iris Murdoch The Book Of Evidence: John Banville The Parts: Keith Ridgway Landings: Emma Donohue The Gathering: Anne Enright Strumpet City: James Plunkett The Country Girls: Edna O’Brien Skippy Dies: Paul Murray Bad Day At Blackrock: Kevin Power Dead School: Patrick McCabe Goodbye To The Hill: Lee Dunne Journey Home: Dermot Bolger

R E A DY, W I L L I N G A N D C A P E L !

f anywhere embodies the city’s newfound multiculturalism and blending of traditional and modern, it’s this historic thoroughfare which was a Mecca for hip young things in the ‘60s and early ‘70s – Philip Lynott was a regular in its ‘boutiques’ – but then like a lot of Dublin fell victim to inner city decay. A notable survivor from those days is Louis Copeland, the master tailor at No. 39 whose current near-neighbours include Musashi, a new Japanese B.Y.O.B., which in this writer’s humble opinion has the best sushi, sashimi, tempura and dumplings in town; the Sounds Around DJ Store which is guaranteed to bring out the inner Larry Gogan in you; the thoroughly LGBTabulous Pantibar and Jack Nealon, an old man’s pub that’s recently taken to running excellent bear and swingers’ nights. Or so I’m told. Different types of appetites can be sated at Hilan, another foodie newcomer at No. 45, which is perennially packed with expat Koreans and Chinese chowing down on jian po chicken, stir-fried razor fish and jellyfish salad and other authentic dishes which are mostly less than a tenner. It’s one of over a dozen Asian businesses – hairdressers, supermarkets, phone shops and a Filipino buffet among them – who’ve recently made Capel St. their home. Hilan

It gets extra points for being on the Northside. But that’s not why myself and Capel St. have been enjoying an increasingly torrid love affair of late, writes Stuart Clark...

PHOTOS:

Marit Ehmke & Laura Cailloux

The Black Sheep

Hilan

is a mere sea snail’s throw from the Black Sheep, which resides at No. 61 and spoils its devoted regulars with over 100 craft beers, an equally extensive whiskey-list and superior nibbles. It’s a tough call but we’d suggest the boozy steak sandwich washed down with a Dungarvan Cooper Coast Red Ale. Pubbing in Dublin really doesn’t get any better! There’s more than enough there to ensure Capel St.’s heroic thoroughfare status, but if you’re still not convinced Slattery’s, J.P. McNeill and the Boar’s Head are also watering holes of style and distinction;

the Polsmak supermarket can sort you out with everything from pirogi to marbled rye; the Hemp Company offers better living through marijuana (though there are certain items they can’t stock); Fusciardi’s is in the running for Dublin’s best Italian chipper; the Model Shop is a veritable nerd’s paradise; Ephesus does things with kebabs that will make you cry – in a good way; Capel Camping has all your festival requisites and the Spice Of Life sex shop will ensure you never go un-lubed. Racy, tasty and impeccably dressed, Capel St. really does have it all.

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DUBLIN FOR KIDS & TEENS Teach bored kids to love Dublin by following our blueprint for a family life less ordinary.

WORDS

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Monica Heck

DUBLIN ZOO Phoenix Park, Dublin 8 Tel: (0)1 474 8900, dublinzoo.ie Animals, especially with stripes, manes, claws or an array of sharp teeth, are like magnet to metal for kids of all ages, even the adult ones. Tucked away in the heart of Phoenix Park, Dublin Zoo offers a glimpse into the lives of some of the world’s most fascinating animals. One of the world’s oldest zoos, it’s done up to modern standards and holds around 600 animals in a 28 hectare park. The zoo focuses on a combination of education and conservation, with regular Animal Talks on tigers, sealions, penguins, giraffes and chimpanzees and more. Other activities happen throughout the year such as summer camps for kids and teens, Kids clubs, parent and toddler mornings, and young zoologist days. Opening hours: 9.30am – 6pm (last admission 5.30pm). Tickets: Adults: €15.50, seniors €12.50, children €11 (under three get in free). Daily Animal Talks from March to September and weekend only Animal Talks from October to February. Check the events calendar for a list of camps and special day activities. IMAGINOSITY Dublin Children’s Museum, The Plaza, Beacon South Quarter, Sandyford, Dublin 18 Tel: (01) 217 6130, imaginosity.ie Based on the philosophy that children learn better while playing, the Dublin Children’s Museum opened in 2007. Designed as an interactive space for children under nine and their parents, Imaginosity offers a range of educational activities where kids can visit ‘Dr. Apple-a-day’s Office to see a ‘skeleton’ on an x-ray through a lightbox, peek through a periscope in a submarine, crack the code in the bank, visit the library for a flop on a beanbag with a book or scale two floors of the museum by crawling and planning their way through ‘The Climber’, a unique structure that runs through the centre of the museum and culminates in the Turret, where kids become both Jack on his beanstalk and Rapunzel. A workshop calendar provides additional activities throughout the year. Opening hours: Monday 1.30pm – 5.30pm, Tuesday to Friday 9.30am – 5.30pm, weekends 10am – 6pm. Bank holiday Mondays 9.30am – 5.30pm. A ‘timed-ticketing’ system applies during busy periods which guarantees a minimum twohour visit to the museum. Advance booking is recommended. Price: €8 for children and

accompanying adults, €6 for toddlers (12), €7 students and seniors, babies (6mths – 12mths) €2.

HAMLEYS TOY STORE Dundrum Town Square, Pembroke District Level 1 Unit 51 Tel: (01) 292 4900, hamleys.com The Hamleys name carries 250 years worth of magical experience for children and the Irish branch is like a wonderland for kids, designed to mimic the full-on experience of the original store on London’s Regent St. The store opened in 2008 beside Dundrum shopping centre and stocks a wide range of toys from Lego to Sylvanians and Barbie to cuddly toys. Demonstrators are around the shop all day, making the toys come alive with low flying model planes or bubbles. In-store events run daily with activities such as face painting for arts and crafts, summer camps and music classes. THE ARK 11A Eustace St., Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 670 7788, ark.ie This cultural centre for children is a place where children from two to 12 are introduced to arts, culture and creativity by professional artists. The building is unique and was purpose designed with children in mind. The activities span theatre, music, literature, painting, film and dance. A scan of the website is necessary before a visit to check opening hours and what events or exhibitions are on, as the Ark runs on a programme-by-programme basis and doesn’t operate any permanent exhibition. The website also offers online activities for kids. LUCAN SKATE PARK Griffeen Valley Park, Lucan, Co. Dublin This open-air full concrete skate park is free to access all year, gates close at night. Younger children should be supervised and daytime access is better as older kids tend to access it later in the day. No bikes are allowed. The park is not supervised. Older lads evening. Free access. NATIONAL AQUATIC CENTRE Snugborough Road, Abbotstown, Dublin 15 Tel: (01) 646 4300, aquazone.ie One of Dublin’s main attractions, the National Aquatic Centre was opened in 2003 and hosted the summer Special Olympics World Summer Games that year. A large indoor water centre, it hosts a 10-lane 50m x 25m swimming pool with two moveable floors which allow it to be reconfigured for other uses, a 25m diving pool/warm up pool and the AquaZone, a leisure area which includes adventure water rides with names like the Masterblaster and the Green Giant, a children’s play pool and a wave pool. As well as water thrills,

KIDS (clockwise from left) The Ark, Dublin Zoo & The Leisureplex

the AquaZone offers options for birthday parties and summer camps. Check the website for seasonal opening times before you go as ride access, times and prices differ during peak summer season for example.

QUASAR AND BOWLING AT THE LEISUREPLEX Coolock, Blanchardstown, Stillorgan, Tallaght Tel: (01) 848 5722 (Coolock), (01) 822 3030 (Blanchardstown), (01) 288 1656 (Stillorgan), (01) 459 9411 (Tallaght), leisureplex.ie Kids and teens can go wild in the Leisureplex filled with video-game arcades, bowling alleys and Quasar, a laser tagging game played with laser guns, detectors, smoke and pounding music. The Leisureplex also hosts children’s parties and the Zoo, a children’s play area which includes slides, tunnels and ball pools. The Leisureplex in Stillorgan runs teen party nights (contact directly for upcoming dates) and the one in Coolock has a synthetic ice rink. Open: Seven days a week, 10am till late.

ATTITUDE AND PLAY TEENAGE DISCOS The Wright Venue, South Quarter, Airside Tel: (01) 890 0099, attitudeteendisco.com or playteendisco.com

Teens can mingle, dance and hang out in a supervised environment at Play (for first, second and third years) or Attitude (for fourth, fifth and sixth years). The events typically run from 7pm to 11pm (Play) and 8pm to midnight (Attitude) and feature DJs from the big radio stations across the city. Check the websites for upcoming events. Tickets can be bought online or at Ticketmaster outlets. ID must be presented at the door and the events enforce an alcohol-free policy. Prices (may vary + booking fee): Play €15, Attitude €20.

FORT LUCAN OUTDOOR ADVENTURELAND Westmanstown, Lucan, Co. Dublin Tel: (01) 628 0166, fortlucan.com For children aged two to 14, this outdoor adventure centre has everything to keep little ones and pre-teens occupied including secret slides, 40 foot towers, high walkways, mazes, assault courses and crazy golf. Under fives can access a special play area adapted to their needs. Some activities have height restrictions. Recommended visiting time is two to three hours. Opening hours vary with the seasons and can be dependent on weather, call to check if unsure and visit the website for latest details.

Under twos go free. Tickets: children: €9.50 (includes one free go in the Waterfall or Crazy Golf), adults: €3.50 (includes complimentary tea or coffee).

THE DUBLIN GHOSTBUS TOUR Tel: (01) 703 3028, dublinsightseeing.ie Teens over the age of 14 can enjoy getting the wits frightened out of them on this spooky tour around Dublin. Professional actors set the mood as the tour drifts through the dark underbelly of Dublin, home of body-snatching in St. Kevin’s graveyard, the haunted steps and Dracula’s Dublin roots. Bookings: Dublin Bus office on O’Connell Street, Tourism Office on Suffolk St., or online. Price: €28. Tours take place in all weather.

MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES

There are lots of great free museums and galleries to visit with children of all ages. The Natural History Museum is probably the first stop, a great big showcase of stuffed animals of all kinds including reptiles, birds, insects and fish. Budding artists may appreciate the collections at the National Gallery of Ireland or the Irish Museum of Modern Art. See our ‘Dublin for Free’ section for more details on museums.

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These are our covers from the last 12 months.

You can pick us up in every newsagent in Ireland for only Â¤3.50 or go to hotpress.com/vip and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll post it through your letterbox every 14 days.

NEVER 114

MISS

B E AT

my DUBL IN GRAHAM KEOGH

“Dublin needs less tracksuit bottoms. And fake tan! ”

AN G EL A SC ANLON . S T YLIS T Emorville Avenue. We’re blessed with great boutiques and should fight to keep them alive. Dublin needs more? Fresh food markets. I dream of a time when Georges St. Arcade becomes to Dublin what The English Market is to Cork… Dublin needs less? Tracksuit bottoms. And fake tan. Favourite Dublin building? Georges St. Arcade from a Fade St. vantage point! There’s a view from Kelly’s Hotel into an old cobbler/metal work factory in the attic and it’s beautiful (if a little creepy) to watch… Your Dublin music? Villagers. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? I have a soft spot for Portobello. Your Dublin hero? The late, great Ronnie Drew. His raspy unforgettable voice embodied everything wonderful about the Dubs. When you’re with friends in Dublin, what do you like to do? Go to Grogans for booze, toasties and Guinness farts.

MARK NIXON

What do you like best about Dublin? The vibe, the sense of humour and the food. There’s an energy about Dublin that’s utterly unique. It’s a ‘cosmopolitan’ city that feels like a village… Best outdoors place? Iveagh Gardens for peace and craic. Dublin’s best restaurant? In my dreams (and on very special occasions) Chapter One, in reality Yamamori – their sushi is off the charts. Dublin’s best bar? Grogan’s without a doubt. For the sheer randomness and the possibilities it holds on any given night! Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? Fallon & Byrne or the market on Coppinger Row market on a Thursday… Where do you like to shop for clothes? Everywhere! Bow in Powerscourt, Costume and Smock on Castle Market St., Indigo & Cloth on South William St., Dolls in

Villagers

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GAY DUBLIN: ALIVE AND KICKING Once it was confined to a few venues. Now the Dublin gay scene has exploded with distractions to please every inclination BRIAN FINNEGAN reports.

PHOTOS

Graham Keogh

ADDITIONAL REPORTING

Anne Sexton & Grainne Alyward 102

n post-Tiger Ireland we might hear stories of bars closing every day, but in Dublin the gay scene is growing. New bar, Wilde, which opens on Wicklow St. in August, is not only expanding the gay social life by a capacity of 600, seven nights a week, with its V.I.P. rooms and a “dress like your life depended on it” slogan, it’s a literal rejection of the financial meltdown. The gays, it seems to be telling us, are still living la vida loca. On some level, this might be true. The lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender (L.G.B.T.) community has historically tended to find its centre in the social hubs provided by pubs and clubs, and while lots of lesbian couples are having children nowadays, the ‘double income, no kids’ stereotype still applies. Gays have more to spend than their currently straightened straight counterparts because the majority don’t have to dole it out on dependents. Still, whether or not Wilde survives and thrives won’t have anything to do with gay cashflow; it will depend on if and where a new pub can fit into the intricate ecosystem of Dublin’s gay scene. Where once upon a time gay Dublin was a mix ‘n’ match affair, where people of all ages and gay persuasions piling in to the George, the Front Lounge, or whatever one-nighter was on offer, now it’s become more like larger cities across the world – divided by type. The Dragon, on South Great George’s St., has been the game-changer in this respect, ushering in the kind of pumpedup, tops-off clubbing for buff gay guys that was missing from Dublin’s scene, despite the stronghold of dance clubs full of homogenously hot guys in virtually every other civilised city on the planet. So while the Dragon churns out the house and dance pop with podium dancers gyrating for crowds of gay lads, mostly in their 20s and early 30s , the rest of Dublin’s gay bars have settled into catering to their own specific clientelles. For the past decade, the George has been the home of drag cabaret, with its triumvirate of queens, Shirley Temple Bar, Veda Beaux Reves, and Davina Devine, pulling in a crowd that likes to be entertained before they dance, again mostly in the younger age bracket. Lesbianoriented Friday night club, Mischief, has made the George more popular with the girls than it was of old, so the gender-mix is often fairly 50-50, while its side-bar, lovingly known as Jurassic, has a ‘local’ feel to it and generally older male punters.

The Front Lounge on Parliament St. has never waned in popularity since it inadvertently became a gay bar in the mid-’90s, continuing to attract a healthy mix of lesbians and gay guys of all ages to dance amid the tables to weekend D.J.’s or sing along at a weekly karaoke night that’s become an institution. There’s a ‘regular’ feel to the Front Lounge, its punters are well-dressed and out to show it and the atmosphere is casually cruisey. Pantibar, across the river on Capel St. is co-owned and run by Miss Panti, the most popular of Dublin’s drag doyennes. While the George generally presents straightup drag, Pantibar’s regular cabarets, Bunny’s Hutch and the Panti Show showcase altogether more alternative tranny goings on, attracting a slightly edgier and artier crowd of all age-groups. Directly across the road, Nealon’s is not officially ‘gay’, but it’s become a haunt for the older, larger and hirsute men, having officially become the home of Dublin Bears, who host weekly nights upstairs. One-nighters have always been a major factor on Dublin’s gay scene, providing horizon-widening alternatives to the handful big bars. It’s constantly in flux, though, with nights coming and going in the blink of an eye, although some bed down for longer periods, usually because they find a niche within the larger ecosystem. The longest running is Glitz on Tuesdays at the Dandelion on Stephen’s Green, attracting mainly a young and upfor-it crowd. Souped-up chart hits are the order of the day on the dancefloor. Currently reigning supreme for homosexuals and their straight mates who don’t want Rhianna and Gaga on a loop, is Mother at Copper Alley on Exchange St., an electro-synth night that’s ushered in a kind of ‘party back at my place’ ethos to clubbing in the city. Its alt. lesbian counterpart, Bitches Be Crazy pops up every now and then in different venues, and you have to ‘like’ it on Facebook to find out where it’s happening. Other one-nighters currently on the trot include R.U.L.E., a strict dress-code fetish night at the Turks Head on the last Sunday of the month, and Klub Diva, a women’s club that attracts a more mature crowd in the same venue on the last Saturday of the month. Beyond the clubbing and pubbing, there’s a strong cultural element to gay Dublin, with a dedicated theatre space in Outhouse – the L.G.B.T. community centre on Capel St. – a clutch of embedded festivals, and a number of pop-up events happening throughout every year. The most popular annual cultural events are G.A.Z.E., the Dublin International Lesbian and Gay Film Festival, which takes place every August Bank Holiday weekend and is the second biggest festival of cinema

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THE GEORGE 21 South Great Georges St., Dublin 2 Tel: (0)1 478-2983, thegeorge.ie Ahh, The George. The mothership of Irish gay-ness. The home of Drag Queen Bingo, it has lost out a little to newer gay joints springing up around the city. However, you never forget your first, and it remains a site of pilgrimage for Irish gays and lesbians. The rite of passage the George represents has not yet been rivalled by The Dragon or Panti Bar. Having opened its doors as an underground homo haven in 1985, the George predates the decriminalisation of homosexuality by almost a decade.

in the city; the International Dublin Gay Theatre Festival, which welcomes theatre groups from all over the world to the city during the first two weeks of May; and, of course, the Dublin L.G.B.T. Pride Festival, which takes place for ten days at the end of every June. The most recent Dublin Pride march was 20,000 strong and numbers tripled for the host of impromptu and suitably frenzied street parties that happened in its wake. Anyone who happened upon the east end of Temple Bar that day might have rightly surmised that Dublin has turned into a very gay city indeed.

OVER THE RAINBOW Whether you’re dying for a coffee and some civilised company or a shot of something else follow this guide and you won’t put a high-top or stiletto wrong.

PANTI BAR 7 Capel St., Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 874 0710, pantibar.com Pantibar is owned and run by Ireland’s favourite drag queen, Panti (aka Rory O’Neill). It is chic and colourful, with genuine wood flooring, a corner stage and a long bar to avoid queues. Pantibar’s clientele are generally those who prefer pubbing to clubbing. Famous for its art-nouveau graphic posters and the enigmatic Panti herself, the venue is classy but comfortable. PRHOMO 6 Wicklow St., Dublin 2 Web: prhomo.ie A top destination for students, Prhomo

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GAY & LE SB IA N it features almost invariably smiley happy staff. You can even get a 10% discount for “liking” them online.

MOTHER Copper Alley, Upper Exchange Street, Dublin 2 Twitter: @MotherDublin

at Base Bar has made a definite mark on the gay scene in Dublin. One of many springing up around Dublin, Prhomo takes place at Base every Thursday night. Hosted by DJ Ruth Dignam and Paul Ryder, Prhomo is for shots and dancing. You have been warned.

OUTHOUSE 105 Capel St., Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 873 4932, outhouse.ie The resource and community centre for the lesbian, gay, bisexual and transgender communities in Dublin. Set in the handsome Georgian building is a café and library. The centre even features

a large range of services available to all, including movie nights, support groups, diverting entertainment and free condoms. What more could you ask for?

LEMON JELLY Millennium Walkway, Dublin 1 Tel: (01) 873 5161, lemonjellycafe.ie

Lemon Jelly is a gay-friendly café with branches on the north and south side of the Liffey. Their flagship branch sits between the Jervis St. Luas stop and the quays, and the new addition (run by the owner’s sister) resides across from the Project Arts Centre in Temple Bar. Neat and friendly,

Possibly one of the best club nights in Dublin, Mother is a riotous mix of controlled debauchery and crazy moderation, electronic beats, classic indie, sweet charming people, and sweet charming madoutforits. With drinks promotions and a guest list via Facebook, it’s not going to break the bank either. Dress to impress but be warned, it gets sweaty inside!

THE STAGE DOOR 10B – 11 Essex St., Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 677 6297, stagedoorcafe.com

Oh yummy yummy, and that’s just the waiters. Just a hop, skip and a jump from the Project Arts Centre, the Stage Door serves delicious omelettes and desserts so rich and decadent

it makes elbowing your way through the tourists and drunken madness of Temple Bar worthwhile. Described by no less an august publication than the New York Times as a “cosy café”, the Stage Door is certainly on the small side, but as long as you don’t mind fellow brunch junkies overhearing the details of last night’s shenanigans, that’s hardly a problem.

THE BOILERHOUSE Crane Lane, Temple Bar Tel: (01) 677 3130, theboilerhouse.com

You’d think with apps like Grindr that time had been called on venues where casual hook-ups are their raison d’etre, but not so. The Boilerhouse is not exactly the venue to find true love or for shy, retiring types. But with a host of facilities such as a sauna, steam room, cabins, prison, and showers, you can get as dirty or clean as you like. This popular venue is open 24 hours on Saturday and Sunday.

MARK NIXON

my DUBL IN

DANIELLA MOYLES MODEL

What do you like best about Dublin? It’s home. Best outdoors place? Sandymount strand. Dublin’s best restaurant? Bite. Dublin’s best bar? The Pink at Samsara. Where do you like to pick up ingredient for cooking? Food Game. Where do you shop for clothes? Topshop, Urban Outfitters, Zara. Dublin needs more? Rain. Dublin needs less? Models. Favourite Dublin building? I’ve don’t really have one, never

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Bitches With Wolves

thought about that before! Your Dublin music? Fox Avenue, Bitches With Wolves, The Coronas. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood? Ranelagh. Your Dublin hero? Phil Lynott. When you’re with friends in Dublin, what do you like to do? Get coffee at Foam Café, eat sushi in Yamamori and go to gigs or the cinema.

“Dublin needs less models!”

5 OF THE BES T: ATTRACT IONS From creamy pints to important historical sites, the capital is spilling over with visitor attractions.

GUINNESS STOREHOUSE St. James Gate, Dublin 8 Tel: (01) 453 8364, guinness-storehouse.com The 110-year-old Storehouse at St. James’ Gate houses a whopping seven floors of information about Ireland’s favourite beverage; what’s in it, how it’s made, how it’s shipped, how it’s used in cooking and how it became one of the world’s most iconic global brands. Visitors can learn how to pull the perfect pint of Guinness before savouring one for themselves at the spectacular Gravity bar, which boasts one of the best views of the city. Open seven days a week from 9.30am until 5pm and until 7pm during the months of July and August. Tickets: €16.50 (adult), €13 (students and senior citizens), €10.50 (under 18) and €6.50 (under 12). GLASNEVIN MUSEUM Glasnevin Cemetery, Finglas Road, Dublin 11 Tel: (01) 882 6550, glasnevinmuseum.ie Glasnevin Museum is home to fascinating exhibitions on key historical figures, while the 124-acre graveyard is the final resting place of Charles Stewart Parnell, Michael Collins, Éamon de Valera, Maude Gonne, Constance Markievicz and Christy Brown. Open Monday to Friday, 10am to 5pm and 11am to 5pm on Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays. Admission from €6, with tours available at extra cost.

WORDS

Celina Murphy

JAMESON DISTILLERY Bow St., Smithfield, Dublin 7 Tel: (01) 807 2355, tours.jamesonwhiskey.com Located on the site of the original distillery in Smithfield, the Jameson Whiskey Tour tells the story of John Jameson and his world-renowned tipple, which has since become the drink of choice of Lady Gaga, Rihanna and countless other celebrities. As well as learning about the history of the brand, visitors will be treated to a signature Jameson drink and volunteers selected to

partake in a tutored whiskey tasting. Open Monday to Saturday, 9am to 6pm, and Sundays from 10am. Tickets are priced €13 (adults), €10.60 (students), €9.60 (senior citizens) and €7.70 (children under 18).

LITTLE MUSEUM OF DUBLIN 15 Saint Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661 1000, littlemuseum.ie Chronicling the social, cultural and political history of Dublin in the 20th century, this non-profit museum was opened just last year. Located on the first floor of a Georgian townhouse, it now boasts over 400 artefacts, including games, machines, art, photographs, posters, letters and items related to famous visitors such as President John F. Kennedy, Marlene Dietrich and Muhammad Ali. Open seven days a week, 11am to 6pm, with late opening Thursdays until 8pm. Tickets are priced €5. THE NATIONAL WAX MUSEUM The Armoury, Foster Place, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 6718373, waxmuseumplus.ie While remaining true to the ethos of a wax museum, the National Wax Museum presents a snapshot of Irish cultural heritage with a very modern twist. Located in the heart of Dublin city, the museum features lifelike renditions of some of Ireland’s best-known writers, politicians, actors, musicians and historical figures (with a few international faces thrown in for good measure!), a green screen video room, a recording studio and a children’s fantasy world. Open seven days a week, 10am to 7pm. Tickets are priced €12 (adults), €10 (students) and €8 (children). Psst! Don’t miss the Philip Lynott Exhibition in St. Stephen’s Green. Turn to page 18 for full details...

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THIS SPORTING LIFE

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SPORT inferiority to bitter rivals Munster, whose fans revelled in their perceived status as salt-of-the-earth ordinary Joes while the Leinster faithful were widely typecast as upper-class ‘D4’ idiots of the sort caricatured in the Ross O’Carroll-Kelly series. Since then, they’ve conquered one peak after another and show no signs of slowing down. The team plays in the decidedly pleasant surroundings of the RDS (Royal Dublin Society) in Donnybrook; games take place at the weekend, most often on Friday nights, in a highly congenial and family-friendly setting.

FOOTBALL AND HURLING

Dubliners love sport. We cheer on outstanding individuals and trophy laden teams in imposing arenas and huddle trackside in the rain to support local heroes. Few cities have a populous so engrossed by matters on the pitch, track, court or field. Craig Fitzsimons tells you how to join in.

side from all its other attractions, Dublin is something of a paradise for sports-lovers; by any standards, the city is sports-mad. Visitors and locals alike have the option of immersing themselves in a bewilderingly vast variety of different sporting activities, whether as spectators or participants. The nation has a genuine claim to being the centre of the horse-racing universe, and for those who cherish the hustle and bustle of the live ball-game experience, domestic soccer, topquality rugby, Gaelic football and hurling are all on the menu. Fitness enthusiasts can even take the plunge of entering the Dublin Marathon, a highly scenic if undeniably gruelling 26-mile trek through the city’s streets, and for those who prefer physical exercise of a less strenuous variety, Dublin’s swisher suburbs are liberally sprinkled with golf courses. Jump in, and enjoy!

RUGBY

It’s no exaggeration at all to state that right now, Dublin is home to by far the finest club rugby team in the northern hemisphere. Leinster have been by far the biggest success story in Irish sport over the last few years (only Kilkenny’s hurlers compete for that particular accolade), beating off the finest of English, French, Welsh, Scots and Italian opposition in the Heineken Cup to become European champions in 2009, 2011 and 2012. Before that 2009 breakthrough, the team’s fans were tormented for years by an undeniable

The rest of the world might not know it yet, but Irish men and women are in no doubt: the greatest sporting show on Earth is the All-Ireland Hurling and Football Championships, an annual spectacle which holds the populace entranced between May and September every year. And no-one seriously disputes that there’s no better place to watch it than Croke Park, the jewel in the crown of Irish sporting theatres, a breathtaking 80,000-capacity arena in Dublin’s north inner city which, in September, stages the showpiece finals of both competitions. While Dublin’s hurlers will have to wait at least another year, the capital’s football team are in the proud position of being All-Ireland champions for the first time since 1995, having claimed the crown last September in a breathtaking final against Kerry, which couldn’t have been any more dramatic if you’d employed a team of Hollywood scriptwriters to pen the finale. Already, the Dubs have forged a path through to the All-Ireland knockout stages and are within reach of retaining their crown: if there is one must-see sporting event in Dublin, Ireland or indeed the world this year, it has to be the AllIreland Football Final on September 23 at a packed Croke Park. We’ll see you there. Away from Croker, you can also catch a game at one of the capital’s many smaller grounds. Parnell Park in Donnycarney, Dublin’s actual home ground, plays host to many county championship matches and is accessible by Dart. For details of county championship matches see: hill16.ie

SOCCER

The Irish national team’s recent adventure in Poland at the European Championships was an unmitigated disaster on the pitch; but off it, you could say it was a triumph of sorts, with the vast army of travelling Irish fans thoroughly endearing themselves to their bemused hosts by singing and dancing cheerfully morning, noon and night for two entire weeks, cementing the fans’ reputation as quite possibly the most warmly-regarded set of international football supporters in the world. While the travelling Green

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SPO RT Robbie Keane, inside the Irish Rugby team locker-room & Rory McIlroy

Belfield Campus. And, down the coast in Bray, Co Wicklow, Bray Wanderers are a flinty presence in the Premier League, always defying predictions they are set for the drop. Any Dublin derby is full- blooded affair but –the objections of Pats and Shels fans notwithstanding –it is fair to say that the most mouth-watering clash is that of Rovers and Bohs. Their next league faceoff is September 10 at Tallaght Stadium, on the Luas Red Line.

HORSE-RACING

In terms of banter, wit and atmosphere, there are few sporting experiences to compare with a day out at the races in Ireland, ideally in Leopardstown (though the Co. Kildare venues of Punchestown and The Curragh are, in their own ways, not to be missed). Leopardstown is best experienced during the fourday festival, which traditionally takes place from December 26 – 29. The quality of the racing is top-notch, and the festival is also a huge social occasion. It should be borne in mind that the weather can be pretty rough at that time of year, so it might be advisable to bring a warm coat. Perhaps more than any other sport, television simply can’t convey the phenomenal gut-level thrill of watching first-class racehorses in the flesh, and needless to say, for the brave or foolhardy among us, you’ve also got the opportunity to win – or, indeed, lose – a fortune. Turn up in plenty of time, take a good half-hour to study the form closely, read the runes and see if you’ve spotted something the bookies haven’t fully taken into account. Then treat yourself to a nice coffee, wine, beer, fruit juice or whatever’s your fancy, sit back and strap yourself in for the ride, and

Rory McIlroy

won the U.S. Open in 2011, setting a record score of 16-under-par on his way to an eight-shot victory.

Army may in truth have contained a few fair-weather ‘here for the beer’ passengers, the grounds of the League of Ireland are where you’ll encounter the true faithful. The quality of LoI soccer is high, with most teams playing an attractive, attacking brand of football (there is little of the ‘hoof it first, ask questions later’ philosophy you’ll find in the UK for instance). With six top flight sides in greater Dublin, you’re be spoiled for choice too. Premier Division Shamrock Rovers, based in Tallaght, qualified for the knock-out stages of the Europa League last year, though their momentum has stalled of late. In west Dublin, the biggest team is St Patrick’s Athletic, headquartered in Inchicore. The northside, meanwhile, is home to Bohemians, whose home ground of Dalymount Park is the acknoweldged home of Irish football and Shelbourne FC (at Tolka Park). UCD, for their part, play in a new stadium on the university’s

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SPORT Croke Park

BEST ALTERNATIVE TO TEAM SPORTS GRAVITY CLIMBING CENTRE 6A Goldenbridge Industrial Estate, Inchicore, Dublin 8 Tel: (01) 707 8585, gravityclimbing.ie Thanks to that tempestuous weather of ours, Dubliners have long been on the hunt for a thrilling indoor pursuit to exercise our body and mind when the rain forces us inside. Enter Gravity Climbing Centre. This indoor facility is devoted to bouldering (rock-climbing without ropes), and has over 1,000 square metres of climbing wall consisting of around 200 regularly changed boulder problems and circuits. It’s a fun and physically challenging sport that is surrounded by a great sense of community, thanks in large part to this centre.

BEST BET roll up afterwards to claim your winnings. It doesn’t get much sweeter. For details of what’s happening at Leopardstown check: leopardstown.com

GOLF

There is no outdoor pursuit quite as relaxing, satisfying, invigorating and (at times) infuriating as a good round of golf, and visitors to Dublin are spoilt for choice, with a multitude of magnificent payto-play courses to choose from. Perhaps the jewel in the crown is Portmarnock, a stunning seaside links course which has played host to the Irish Open on several occasions: Dublin’s north coast in general is excellently served for golf, with Deer Park (Howth) and Skerries also worth a look. On the other side of the river, Palmerstown and Rathfarnham are excellent settings, and if you’re prepared to take a trip out of town, the Arnold Palmer-designed K. Club in Kildare (host to 2006’s Ryder Cup) poses a ferocious challenge, with plenty of patience a must. For pay-to-play golf centres meanwhile, there is the Open Golf Centre at Newtown House, a 27 hole parkland house with a 16 bay driving range (01 864 0324).

GREYHOUND RACING

With packages to suit every pocket and taste, venues such as Shelbourne Park and Harold’s Cross provide hugely congenial settings in which to watch our lightning-limbed four-legged friends sprinting against one another at breakneck

speed. Both stadia are equipped with impressively modern restaurants and bars where you can eat and drink and enjoy an excellent view of the action from a highly comfortable grandstand seat: the racing itself is so rapid-fire it makes the horses seem positively sedate, and provides an almighty adrenalin rush, enhanced even further if the dog in front happens to be carrying your hard-earned cash. A guaranteed brilliant night out. For details see: igb.ie

RUNNING

It must be said that even hardened sporting enthusiasts would more often than not balk at the idea of running for 26 miles: but those who have accomplished it testify that the sense of achievement when they finally complete the trek is immense. The Dublin Marathon, traditionally held on the Bank Holiday Monday in late October, has been held every year since 1990, kicking off in Fitzwilliam Square and eventually working its way to nearby Merrion Square, with at least 10,000 participants testing their endurance to the absolute limit for the 26 miles in between. Mercifully, the course is relatively flat, with Dublin not being too savage in its topography compared to some other cities: nonetheless, like any marathon, the trek is recommended only to those who have put in the preparation and know the exact nature of the challenge that lies ahead of them.

FITZWILLIAM CASINO & CARD CLUB Clifton Hall, Fitzwilliam St. Lower, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 611 4677 fitzwilliamcardclub.com The Fitzwilliam, at Clifton Hall is one of Dublin’s longest established casinos and a popular location for nightly poker tournaments and blackjack. You can also try your luck at one of the three roulette tables that operate 24 hours a day. Helpful staff will answer any questions you have – you don’t need to be an expert to enjoy a night out here. Free membership is available to everyone over 18 years of age, including short-term visitors to Dublin.

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SUB UR BA N CON N ECTI ON While the centre of the city is a mecca for all, outside its hub, Dublin is a network of villages, each with their own independent charms and attractions. We visited some of Dublin’s best suburbs to see what they have to offer.

RATHGAR

Rathgar is a wonderfully leafy area with lots of beautiful old houses on the south side of the city. At its heart is a village, one of the closest to Dublin city centre, that is well worth visiting for its elegant surroundings and unique blend of local shops and cafes. A branch of Superquinn opened there relatively recently but even that has not impinged on the village feel. There’s an O’Brien’s Off License, a barber’s, a flower shop, a butcher’s and a pharmacy, among other amenities. It is also close to Rathmines and Terenure, ensuring that more or less every facility is within walking or cycling distance.

THE GOURMET SHOP 48 Highfield Road, Rathgar Tel: (01) 497 0365, thegourmetshop.ie Dublin’s original deli, in fact The Gourmet Shop is far more than that. A treasure trove of fine foodstuffs, it opened in 1968 and has been catering to people of good taste ever since. It’s a place where spices mingle with marmalade oranges and cheese flirts with figs, chocolate and fine wines. There is a fantastic selection of dried fruit and nuts, excellent cheeses and hams and all manner of other delicacies. It’s an ideal place to buy a present for a foodie friend. Opening hours: Monday to Saturday 9am – 7pm, Sunday 12.15pm – 2pm THE RATHGAR BOOKSHOP 100 Rathgar Road, Rathgar Village Tel: (01) 492 8600, therathgarbookshop.ie Independent bookshops are a vital part of the cultural mix – and this is one of the best in Dublin. They carry a varied mix of titles and are always happy to advise customers or to order something specially for you. You can catch up on your reading in the coffee room or garden with something warm to drink and a home made scone. From March to October, the shop also sells plants from the awardwinning Mount Venus Nursery and provides advice on everything to do with plants.

WORDS: Anne Sexton & Monica Heck

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99B BEUYS & BEUYS 99b Rathgar Road, Rathgar Village Tel: 087 290 5402/087 643 4559, beuysandbeuys.com Run by husband and wife team Mark and Fiona Cummins, this original little fashion shop offers an exclusive range of superb designer clothes by specialist labels such as Bruuns Bazaar or Margaret Howell. It also stocks a mix of craft products, including

handmade Japanese handbags, French cologne and even music. It’s a great place to visit for that elusive present for the friend who has it all – or to indulge yourself by getting something really special to wear.

THE VINTRY 102 Rathgar Road, Rathgar Tel: (01) 490 5477, vintry.ie This local off-licence has been up and running since 1991. A familiar name for those in the know about wine, it is a past winner of the ‘Off-licence of the Year’ award. It stocks a very well chosen selection of great wines from all over the world, including both great bargains and higherend vintages, as well as a fabulous range of beers, liqueurs and spirits. They also provide a full party service and run wine appreciation courses in their own tastingroom. BOTTLERʼS BANK 6 Terenure Road East, Rathgar Formerly the home of the Munster and Leinster Bank this premises is now attached to the larger, glossier Coman’s and shares its outdoor smoking area. A traditionalstyle Dublin public house, The Bottler’s Bank is the perfect place for a quiet drink, chat or read of the newspaper. There is a decent sized snug at the front. There’s nothing fancy, either in terms of drinks or décor, just a nice astmosphere and the barmen are friendly salt-of-the-earth types. BUTLERʼS PANTRY 99 Rathgar Road, Rathgar Tel: (01) 492 9148, thebutlerspantry.ie Fancy beef bourguignon, coq au vin, lamb tagine or vegetarian shepherd’s pie? The Butler’s Pantry has them all, not to mention a range of soups, snacks, excellent desserts and breads.Try the Guinness bread – if there’s any left! Cheaper than a restaurant, healthier than a takeaway and far, far easier than going to the trouble of cooking yourself, the Butler’s Pantry is the perfect compromise for lazy gourmets. Keep an eye out for the specials. The service is very friendly. HOWARDʼS WAY Orwell Road, Rathgar Tel: (01) 296 5806, howardsway.ie Howard’s Way is a solid neighbourhood cafe offering good food at great prices all served with a smile. The ‘early bird’ menu is available all evening, every evening from Tuesday to Sunday. For the very reasonable sum of €24.50 you can have two courses, a bottle of wine per couple and tea or coffee to finish your meal. OTHER RESTAURANTS: There’s an excellent takeaway, Kanum

SU BURBS Howth Head

Thai, where you can also eat on the premises, the Bridgestone-feted Bijou is just beside the crossroads, doing excellent bistrostyle food. Monty’s of Kathmandu serves its highly-acclaimed Nepalese food on Rathgar Road; and newcomer Beckett & Bull does big American flavours in a fine little spot, at the bottom end of Rathgar Avenue.

visitors a walk peppered with a beautiful mix of forest and gentle grassy hills. A decent sized playground is available for kids on the grounds. Visits to the castle are recommended to get a feel for the history of the place and the castle also hosts a souvenir shop and a cafe. A lovely place to go for a walk on a Sunday.

MALAHIDE

BON APPETIT Malahide Village Tel: (01) 845 0314, bonappetit.ie Located in a Georgian townhouse with views on the harbour, Bon Appetit offers three options to diners: ‘La Brasserie’ for casual dining, ‘Le Bon Vin’ for chic tapas and wine and ‘Le Restaurant’ for Michelin star dining. Cooking masterclasses hosted by Michelin star chef Oliver Dunne are also held there bi-monthly throughout the year.

With its shops all located around the compact nucleus of its village-like centre, Malahide is a great place to visit for a bit of premium-brand shopping and gossip in a café followed by a walk on the beach. This gorgeous coastal town, which is rumored to have a curiously high density of hairdressers per head of population, can be easily accessed on the Dart or the bus.

GIBNEYʼS OF MALAHIDE New St., Malahide Tel: (01) 845 0606, gibneys.com This pub has been an institution at the centre of Malahide since 1937, with a great atmosphere where young and old mingle. The pub offers entertainment like sports matches on screens in the sports bar, comedy nights, darts and live music of various kinds. They also offer delicious food and have a well-stocked off-licence. ROBYNʼS NEST 26 New St., Malahide Tel: (0)1 845 4949, robynsnest.ie This is a lovely little gift shop which stocks stationary, jewelry, objects for the home and garden as well as toys. MALAHIDE CASTLE Back Road, Malahide Tel: (01) 890 5000, malahidecastle.com A short walk from the centre of Malahide is a sprawling park with Malahide Castle sitting majestically in its centre. Parts of the demesne are said to originate as far back as the 12th century and nowadays it offers

NEOLA Main St., Malahide Tel: (01) 846 0000, neola.ie If you’re looking for the perfect wedding outfit which nobody else is wearing, head to the Malahide branch of Neola. It’s one of just three locations in Ireland (the others are Dundrum and Dundalk) that offers the Neola blend of hand-picked labels, whether it’s Ugg boots, a maxi-dress or funky red tights that you need.

RATHMINES

Long regarded as an outpost of bedsits for students or civil servants from the country, this old burgh on the Grand Canal has blossomed into a bustling and lively suburb.

RATHMINES LIBRARY 157 Lower Rathmines Road, Dublin 6 Tel: (01) 497 3539 dublincitypubliclibraries.com Built in 1913 through an endowment from philanthropist Andrew Carnegie, this handsome three storey building with an impressive stained glass window above

the entrance has benefited from a recent refit and offers comfortable reading areas and cheap internet access. It houses an exhibition area that is used by local artists and occasionally for readings by visiting writers.

CAMILE THAI 133 Lower Rathmines Road, Rathmines Tel: (01) 470 4040, camile.ie A new addition to the main street and a welcome neighbour to Jo’burger which has been at the forefront of establishing Rathmines as a foodie hangout. A simple but effective refit has brought this Thai takeaway to the area and a small number of tables are available for groups to enjoy the food within the restaurant. Fast becoming a relaxed location for date night or a quick catch up with friends. Check out the new chicken dish on the menu devised by Kevin Thornton. SWAN CINEMA Swan Centre, Lower Rathmines Road Tel: 1520 880 007, swancinemas.ie One of the most modern and comfortable cinemas in the city is perched on the top floor of the Swan Shopping Centre. They have a regular Kids Club screening and often host special event screenings such as live beamback screenings of music concerts or classic film seasons. SWAN LEISURE Rathmines Square Tel: (01) 496 7908, swanleisure.ie The popularity of the Swan name in this area is due to the River Swan, one of Dublin’s many rivers and waterways that now flow underground and which passes through Rathmines undetected by most of the inhabitants. A gleaming replacement for a rather grotty council facility, this ultramodern swimming pool and gym is a gem of a venue for active Dubliners.

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Malahide Castle, Rathgar Bookshop & Wrights of Howth

SLATTERYʼS 217 Lower Rathmines Road Tel: (01) 874 6844, slatterysbar.com One of the city’s great suburban local bars, Slattery’s is the place to find a corner for the proverbial quiet pint. Regulars read books or papers in the front room while rugby fans gather to watch the match in the back. Some of the best barmen in town and a welcoming atmosphere guaranteed.

HOWTH

Less of a suburb, more of a seaside village that woke up one morning to discover it had been absorbed into the sprawl of Dublin. Still retains a keen sense of its distinct local character.

HOWTH CASTLE howthcastle.ie The current building is not the original building but steeping in 700 years of history and intrigue associated with one of Ireland’s oldest estates. The grounds are home to both golf courses and private gardens that open to the public during summer and the Castle Cookery School offer courses in an old Georgian kitchen.

KING SITRIC East Pier, Howth Tel: (01) 832 5235, kingsitric.ie For over 40 years Aidan and Joan MacManus have offered some of the best seafood and panoramic seaviews in their local restaurant. They also run a small guest house with eight bedrooms for those who want to savour those views a bit longer. The unusual name for the place comes from King Sitric II, a Norse King of Dublin from the 11th century who presumably had a taste for Dublin Bay crabs and lobsters.

WRIGHTS OF HOWTH 14 West Pier, Howth Tel: (01) 816 7347, wrightsofhowth.com One of the most distinguished names in

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Irish food, this family have been filleting and curing fish to the highest of standards for generations. Definitely a name to look out for and a brand that has become synonymous with this suburb. You’ll see their produce crop up in restaurants, bars and shops across the Island and they are well worth sampling.

IRELANDʼS EYE

A distinctive island visible from many vantage points in the city, it is best viewed from Howth Harbour. Uninhabited, apart from large colonies of seabirds, the Eye can be reached throughout the summer by tourist boats.

THE SUMMIT INN The Summit, Howth Tel: (01) 832 4615, thesummitinn.ie It is quite a climb up Howth Head to this long established pub but there are some great views along the way and you’ll be able to order one of the finest pints of Guinness in Dublin. There’s a live music venue attached to the pub that often hosts established acts or local bands.

DALKEY

The epitome of gentile Anglo-Irish Dublin, a sleepy south county outpost linked to the more rugged charms of Dublin city by the Dart line.

DALKEY HILL

A reasonably easy walk up the 140 metre high hill offers spectacular views of the surrounding areas. A popular spot for dog walkers and locals seeking to dislodge a hangover through exercise. Part of Killiney Hill Park, there are various trails and paths. Nearby Dalkey Quarry offers the option of rock climbing for the more adventurous sportsmen.

DALKEY BOOK FESTIVAL Tel: 089 472 6765, dalkeybookfestival.org Locals David McWilliams and wife Sian

Smyth marshal volunteers and businesses each June to bring together many of the writers or poets who live in the area for a small festival that is now in its third year. The bill attracts an interesting mix from further afield with literary, music and comedy figures popping by. Think Robert Fisk, Pauline McLynn and Fintan O’Toole. One of the more interesting village festivals on the calendar. Various locations within the village in June.

JAIPUR 21 Castle St., Dalkey Tel: (01) 285 0552, jaipur.ie Dublin’s leading name when it comes to Indian food, their restaurants have won universal plaudits from critics. An ideal place for a fun meal after a day trip to Dalkey. They recommend you try chettinad murgh, a chicken dish with a rich and spicy sauce, flavoured with cinnamon, tamarind and cloves.

THE QUEENS 12 Castle St., Dalkey Tel: (01) 285 4569 A landmark in the centre of the village, this bar has been here since 1745. A modern refit hasn’t taken away from the traditional feel to the place and this is a popular meeting place featuring a café and a gastro pub menu. They host regular wine evenings and steak nights for locals during the week and families and tourists stop in at the weekend.

VICO ROAD

Sorrento Terrace and Vico Road are arguably the most desirable addresses in the country. You’ll spot plenty of Italian tourists wandering aimlessly in search of a photo outside Bono’s house. Having gawped at a few of the more impressive houses, you’ll also be able to find a vantage spot to take in the spectacular view of Killiney Bay, take a walk along the coast or a dip in the sea.

RO MANCE

LOVE BUZZ

Anne Sexton looks at the best places to meet possible romantic partners.

here can you find love in Dublin? I wish it was as easy as a set of GPS co-ordinates, but alas, it’s not. While a number of pubs have reputations, probably deservedly so, as excellent places to meet for more casual relations, meeting The One in a pub can be a tricky business. Not impossible mind you, but great love stories rarely begin over pints. I have yet to meet anybody that has actually had a relationship evolve out of speed dating. Although speed dating is still pretty popular it has lost its novelty factor and along with that, most of its appeal. I presume this is because most of us realise that although it is a bit of craic, if you’ve done it once, you’re unlikely to bother again. If you want to avoid the whole online route, which many people do because it still feels more natural to meet people in real life, there are ways and means of upping your chances. Here they are.

DOG WALKING

About a month ago I got a beautiful German Shepherd from an animal rescue, and I am amazed at the amount of people I have met while walking the dog – old people, young people, couples, hot men, teenagers, and even a former Leinster rugby player. While I didn’t get a dog for this purpose, it was an unexpected bonus. Not only do I chat to other dog owners in the park, but I get stopped on the street by all manner of people wanting to admire my pooch. Phoenix Park is a good choice on a sunny Sunday afternoon, particularly if you are keen to meet someone a little more exotic than the Irish. Large numbers of Dublin’s foreign population gather here for promenading, playing ball-games, picnicking and socialising. You don’t actually need a dog to get in on the action – most dog owners are always happy to chat to people who admire their prized pets. But if you are a dog lover, or have a friend who would appreciate help with dog-walking, a friendly dog is better than a wingman. A word to the wise: you have to be prepared to talk to everybody, whether or not you fancy them. A man of very mature years that frequents my local dog park is renowned for only chatting to women several decades younger than him, while everyone else gets the cold shoulder. The net result is that he is regarded as a pervert and avoided like the plague. You

don’t want that to be you, do you? Recommended parks: St. Anne’s Park, Raheny, Dublin 3 Phoenix Park, Dublin 8 Bushy Park, Terenure, Dublin 6 Eamonn Ceannt Park, Crumlin, Dublin 12 Marlay Park, Rathfarnham, Dublin 16

DANCE CLASSES

It is a bit of a truism at this stage, but dance classes are an excellent way to meet people, particularly if you are a man. Salsa tends to be overrun with women, making them especially attractive options for the rugged sex. However, there are other kinds of dance classes too. I went to Lindy Hop dance classes a while back with a friend. It was great fun – and exercise – and fairly evenly split between the sexes. When you’re up close and dancing with someone, you’re obliged to chat, so it’s friendly. Plus you get to learn some useful information about them. The way someone reacts if you accidentally stand on their toes speaks volumes about a person. Dance classes: Lindy Hop, Twisted Pepper, Middle Abbey Street, Dublin 1, Mondays 8pm East Coast Swing, Turk’s Head, Temple Bar,

Wednesdays 8pm Salsa, 4 Dame Lane, Dublin 2, Sundays 4pm Various held at Dance Theatre Ireland Dún Laoghaire (dancetheatreireland.com)

GIGS

I’ve always found gigs to be a good place to meet people. You have something in common and a ready-made topic of conversation at hand. Easy peasy. However, not all venues are equally good at greasing the wheels of social interaction. As much as I love the O2, it’s a get in and get out kind of place. You need a live venue with a decent bar area where you can meet randomers for a post-show analysis. Concert venues: Vicar St., Thomas Street, Dublin 8 The Academy, Middle Abbey St., Dublin 1 The Olympia, Dame St., Dublin 2 The Grand Social, Liffey St., Dublin 1 The Workman’s Club, Wellington Quay, Dublin 1 There you have it. Of course none of these come with a cast-iron guarantee that you’ll meet the future mother – or father – of your children, but nobody ever did that staying at home watching re-runs on television. Get out into the city and have fun!

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my D UB L IN GRAHAM KEOGH

PAUL HOWARD. AUTHOR

What do you like best about Dublin? Its size and familiarity. The way everyone is only one degree of separation from everyone else. The way you can’t go anywhere without seeing a familiar face. The native Dublin wit – the way the people wisecrack like they’re auditioning to be in a show. Hill 16. The Lido on Pearse St. Deep fried Cadbury’s Cream Eggs. David McSavage. Tom Mathews. Best outdoors place? I love to walk my dog on Dún Laoghaire Pier and along the seafront at Sandycove. I love Dublin Zoo and got an annual membership from my wife last Christmas. We’ve been six times already this year. And I know it’s a cliché but I always feel nicely centred on Grafton St. on a summer’s day. Dublin’s best restaurant? There are a few I love. It’s difficult to single one out. The food and atmosphere in Saba are hard to beat – as are the cocktails – whatever day of the week it is. L’Ecrivain is our place for special occasions. Rolys is our family place. And as for takeaway, I’m convinced that you could travel the world and never find a better Chinese restaurant than the Kingsland in Glasthule. Dublin’s best bar? I’m seldom happier than when I’m enjoying a long session with friends in Bruxelles – with the DJ playing Bruce Springsteen’s ‘Born To Run’ or AC/DC’s ‘You Shook Me All Night Long’. I wish those nights could last forever.

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Where do you like to pick up ingredients for cooking? The supermarket – though increasingly I’m finding that I should be apologising for this! Where do you shop for clothes? I don’t enjoy recreational clothes shopping. I’m old-school Irish like that. I tend to buy my clothes at two appointed times of the year – summer and Christmas. I tend to stick to Grafton St. and Dundrum. There have been a great many fashion disasters. Dublin needs more? Book shops. More dog-friendly establishments. A soap opera to rival Coronation St. Dublin needs less? Politicians going on junkets to Sweden or Denmark, saying, “Well, the way they do things in Scandanavia is…” then trying to implement those ideas here. For instance, removing car parking spaces to try to socially engineer us all into becoming cyclists. We are not Swedish. We are not Danish. We are Irish. Let us all live with that. Favourite Dublin building? I’ve always loved the Shelbourne Hotel. The National Convention Centre is my favourite building in ‘new’ Dublin. Your Dublin music? Damien Dempsey. The man is a genius. The Dubliners. Ronnie Drew singing ‘Nora’ never fails to bring tears to my eyes. Favourite Dublin neighbourhood?

Damien Dempsey

The streets of my childhood. Ballybrack and Loughlinstown, where I grew up. There are so many happy memories everywhere. The streets where we played football. The hill in Cromlech Fields where my brothers used to persuade me to get into a Tesco shopping trolley and push me down it. The Shanganagh St., where we used to fish for tadpoles and occasionally dump the Southside newspapers we were supposed to deliver. Happy days. Your Dublin hero? The late Jim Stynes. I got to spend a day with him in Melbourne in 1997 and accompanied him to a school in the Victorian suburbs, where he delivered a motivational talk to a group of ‘problem’ kids. He turned them from cynicism to tears in about half an hour. He was an extraordinary man and example to all modern celebrities. He was a football star by day, then at night he would drive around in a van giving food to the homeless. What a terrible loss he was to the world. It was a privilege to spend a day in his company. When you’re with friends in Dublin what do you like to do? Eat. Drink. Laugh. Reminisce. Gossip. Triggs – The Autobiography Of Roy Keane’s Dog is available from bookshops. Anglo The Musical, also written by Paul Howard, will run from November 14 – 25 at the Bord Gáis Energy Theatre, Dublin. Tickets are available from Ticketmaster.

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