Go rail Autumn 2015 by Hot Press Publishing

SEPT - NOV 2015 • VOL:05 ISSUE:03

RONAN COLLINS

My Favourite Train Journey

ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER

The Man Behind The Terminator

JACK WHITEHALL

Bad Boy of Stage and Screen

d n a l e r I orld w e h t n o e k a t o t y d a e r e r a

• S P O T L IGH T ON C OR K • M Y FAV OUR I T E T R A IN JOUR NE Y: DE R VA L O ’ROUR K E •

PLUS: GAVIN JAMES, BELINDA MCKEON & CORK FESTIVAL PREVIEW: ALL THAT JAZZ & BLUES by MARY STOKES

@ RDS, Dublin Ireland

Nov 7/8

Mother City

www.metropolisfestival.ie

Music Performance Installation Conversation

Metropolis

Nov 7/8

Forrests

(Perform LCD Soundsystem)

CHIC feat Nile Rodgers Mark Ronson Jamie xx Giorgio Moroder Kaytranada Jeff Mills Four Tet (Live) KiNK (Live) Kerri Chandler Floating Points Maribou State (Live) Nosaj Thing (Live) Benji B Kormacâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Big Band Trinity Orchestra

Sunday

Tickets available via www.ticketmaster.ie

The Roots Hot Chip Flight Facilities Todd Terje Vic Mensa Tiga (Live) Vince Staples Le Galaxie Omar Souleyman Dorian Concept (Live) Matthew Herbert (Live) Booka Brass Band Cloud Castle Lake Formation Clu (Live) White Collar Boy Gemma Dunleavy

Saturday

POD & Hidden Agenda Presents

CONTENTS

S E P T - N OV E M B ER 2 01 5

Volume 05 // Issue 03

K AT H R I N B A U M B AC H

Robbie Henshaw

020 I N T E R V I E W O N PAG E . . .

08 Go For It

28 Arnold Schwarzenegger

41 My Favourite Journey

A rundown of what’s hot and happening throughout the country.

The action movie legend speaks exclusively about his summer hit Terminator Genisys and looks back on a career less ordinary.

Presenter Ronan Collins on the train trip that made him feel he was in The Beatles.

Up-to-date train news from Iarnród Éireann.

30 Bill Whelan

20 Rugby Special

The Riverdance composer on his new musical play, The Train – and the true story that inspired it.

Some of the hidden gems to check out by train this summer.

16 Train News

With the World Cup underway we talk to Ireland manager Joe Schmidt and rising star Robbie Henshaw.

42 Go Visit

47 Go Health

32 Belinda McKeon

With winter on the way we share our top tip for avoiding seasonal sniffles.

24 Gavin James

The novelist on mining her college-going experiences for her new book.

The hottest new Irish songwriter of the moment chats to Go Rail.

50 Go Fashion

36 Go Business

Hot Irish designers to watch as autumn descends.

26 Mary Stokes Ahead of her Cork Jazz Festival performance the esteemed blues vocalist fills us in on the famous Leeside festival.

All the latest from the corporate world.

38 Go Eat We sit down for lunch with writer Sinéad Moriarty.

54 Reviews Our team of reviewers cast their eyes over the latest album, DVD and book releases.

Credits SEPT - DEC 2015

Volume 05 // Issue 03 MANAGING EDITOR

Máirin Sheehy

COMMISSIONING EDITOR

Roisin Dwyer

CONTRIBUTORS

Stuart Clark Craig Fitzpatrick Peter McNally Anne Sexton Roe McDermott Colm O'Regan Marie Ryan Olaf Tyaransen

DESIGN & PRODUCTION

Hot Press 13 Trinity Street Dublin 2

DESIGN

David Keane David Stanley

STUDIO MANAGER

David Keane

PRINTED BY

Boylan’s Print

GROUP AD MANAGER

Trish Murphy

ADVERTISING MANAGER

Damien Doran

PUBLISHER

Niall Stokes

GO RAIL IS PUBLISHED FOR IARNRÓD ÉIREANN BY:

Osnovina Ltd 13 Trinity Street Dublin 2

Contact TELEPHONE FAX EMAIL

(01) 2411 500 (01) 2411 538 gorail@hotpress.ie

LETTERS

The Editor, Go Rail Magazine, 13 Trinity St Dublin 2

While every effort has been made to ensure the information in this magazine is correct, the publishers cannot accept any responsibilities for errors. The views contained in this magazine are those of the authors and not necessarily those of Iarnród Éireann. All material © Osnovina 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction of material without permission of the publishers is strictly prohibited.

Editor's Message

Ireland's Food Hero

Kevin Thornton

hat is the secret of long-term success? More than anything else it is about how we respond to challenges when they arise. If we can meet them head-on and surmount the worst of them, then we do better in life – whether it is personally, in our careers, or in business. The thought crossed my mind, reading about the latest round of Michelin stars awarded to Irish restaurants. In general the news was positive. In Dublin, The Green Room – with the Finnish chef Mickael Viljanen working the magic in the kitchen – was given the accolade for the first time. So too was Loam in Galway, opened by the hugely-talented Enda McEvoy earlier this year. The resurgence in quality high-end cooking in Northern Ireland was also reflected with the award of stars to OX Restaurant and to Eipic. Which is all to the good – though winning a Michelin star is no guarantee of success. A few years ago, Lock’s Restaurant in Portobello, Dublin, was awarded a star out of the blue, without ever really chasing it. Business improved dramatically. But it put a lot of pressure on the owners and the staff alike. A year later, it lost the star. Earlier this year Lock’s closed, after close to 40 years in business, under three different owners. There is an argument that it would still be open and thriving if it had never been dragged into the Michelin circus. The other big surprise this year was that Thornton’s Restaurant in the Fitzwilliam Hotel in Dublin was omitted from the list for the first time in 19 years. Kevin

Thornton, the chef-owner of Thornton’s has been at the forefront of innovative cooking in Ireland since the late '70s. He is brilliantly inventive, and completely committed to using Irish produce in his work. And he and his wife Muriel run a great show in the restaurant – to the extent that it was recently awarded Restaurant of the Year by Food and Wine Magazine. In short, the decision makes no sense at all, given that Kevin Thornton remains at the top of his game in every respect. But the arbitrary and capricious nature of the Michelin system means that Thornton’s will now have to work without its endorsement. There are two directions that Thornton’s can go. One is to determinedly look for the star back next year. The other is to decide that the decision – ill-judged as it is – frees the restaurant up from the demands Michelin makes in relation to staffing, service and so on, which push restaurants in general towards an approach which can seem fussy and pretentious. Either way, there is little doubt that Kevin and Muriel Thornton will continue to fly the flag for great cooking in Ireland. And that, in the hearts and minds of everyone who admires the work of great chefs, Kevin will still be right up there at the top of the real rankings. If you love great food and haven’t ever been, then treat yourself on the next special occasion. Kevin Thornton has shown the way to so many of Ireland’s leading culinary lights. And he will respond to this challenge by continuing to do so. On that, I think we can rely...

Máirin Sheehy, Editor

Enjoy a Luxurious 4* Break in Co. Kildare from €149 per night I N C LU D I N G

• Overnight Accommodation • Full Irish Breakfast • Afternoon Tea for Two • • 3 Course Table d’hôte menu in the Schoolhouse Bar • • Complimentary WIFI • Complimentary Parking • s u b j e c t t o ava i l a b i l i t y , t & c s a p p l y

Receive complimentary Tea/Coffee & Scones on Arrival. Quote “GoRail September 2015” at time of booking to avail of this fantastic offer! Celbridge Manor Hotel, Clane Road, Celbridge Manor Hotel, Co. Kildare BOOK NOW: Call (01) 6013700 or email info@celbridgemanorhotel.ie www.celbridgemanorhotel.ie

GO FOR IT A R U N D O W N O F W H AT ’ S H O T & H A P P E N I N G

by Peter McNally

All That Jazz The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival (October 23–25) has been an essential feature of the Irish festival calendar for the past 37 years. The internationally renowned celebration of all things jazz features over 1,000 musicians in dozens of performances at 70 venues citywide. Last year welcomed Imelda May, Sharon Jones and the Dap Kings and 2 Many DJs. The sole announcement on this year’s bill, as yet, is legendary jazz bassist Marcus Miller – who has worked with greats such as Miles Davis and Herbie Hancock. With an abundance of fringe and satellite events over the weekend, you’ll be spoiled for choice at the Guinness Cork Jazz.

For best value fares on all intercity services check out irishrail.ie 08

Need To Know... WHERE: Multiple venues, Cork WHEN: Oct 23 - 25 NEAREST STATION: Kent Station , Cork

G O

RA I L

G O

F OR

I T

• Hassle Free Parking

A Festival of Frights “Listen to them, the children of the night. What music they make!” October 23–26 sees the return of The Bram Stoker Festival – a weekend for the ghoulish, the gothic and the macabre, dedicated to Irish author Bram Stoker and his most notorious work, Dracula. This year’s event is shaping up to be bigger than ever with its recent official launch promising Four Days Of Living Stories and Four Nights Of Deadly Adventures. One major highlight promises to be the return of Irish street artist Maser who will create an interactive instillation inspired by Stoker’s life and work in Smithfield Square. An exciting addition comes in the form of Stokerland, a pop-up gothic theme park in the style of the 1900 World Fair situated in Wolfe Tone Square and the festival will again close with a haunting citywide procession by Galway street performance company, Macnas. Visit bramstokerfestival.com for more information.

Parkbytext is a new app that aims to take some of the irritation out of parking. This cashless, convenient and cost-effective way to pay for your parking means no more hunting for pocket change or pay machines. Now you can pay for your parking on your mobile phone by text, app, online or over the phone in over 300 locations nationwide, including Iarnrod Eireann stations, and the charge will be deducted from your phone’s credit or added to your monthly bill. One third cheaper than machine prices, parkbytext is also light on the pocket and doesn’t involve registering for an account, it really is as easy as sending a text. parkbytext.ie/refer for details.

G O

G A DG E T INS P EC TO R

RA I L

G O

F OR

I T

Dylan Moran

H U AW E I P 8 In a smartphone world dominated by Samsung HTC and Apple, new brands struggle to ring in the changes. But Huawei P8 is a unicorn in a field of heifers. Since 2007, smartphones have been iterations of the iPhone, yet P8’s lightweight design and elegant finish stand out.

HOW IT LOOKS The 1,920 x 1,080-pixel resolution screen delivers smooth video playback and strong colours.

HOW IT FEELS Touch response is fast and innovative. Double tap the screen with a knuckle (yes, like a Neanderthal) to capture a screenshot. Draw a circle on the screen to capture content.

HOW IT SHOOTS The camera’s Director Mode lets you shoot a video with up to three other Android Phones, switching between feeds to direct the finished product. There’s a 13MP camera on the rear and various effects. Beauty Mode, however, turns you into a photo-shopped ghoul.

DAPPER DANS & DEADLY DAMES Need To Know...

Running from October 14–26, The Wexford Spiegletent Festival takes place in the stunning, Olde Worlde surroundings of the Paradiso Spiegletent. Since its inception in 2012 the Festival has grown to be one of the biggest and most successful multi-genre events in Ireland. Acts already announced for this year’s festivities include Albert Hammond, Steve Earle and the Dukes, Dylan Moran, The Stunning, Bell X1 and Al Porter. The Spiegletent will also be home to a special performance by The New Triangle; a super-group consisting of Damien Dempsey, Declan O’Rourke and John Sheehan – the only surviving member of Ireland’s greatest folk group, The Dubliners. The final weekend will begin with a chance to get out your flapper dresses and fedora hats for a night of swing, jazz, burlesque dancing and speakeasy chic at the festival’s Prohibition Party.

WHERE: Wexford WHEN: Oct 14 - 26 NEAREST STATION: Wexford

Winter is Coming

WHY IT’S GOOD This trip to Huawei will make you want to wear a grass skirt and do the hula.

Overview: Price / €254.99 (approx) Memory / 16/64 gb, 3 gb ram Dimension / 144 x 72 x 6.4mm Weight / 144 g

Total Score 90% Performance / 80 % Design / 85% Camera / 90% Keith Barry, festival ambassador for 2015

Waterford Winterval, the stunning citywide celebration of all things yuletide, will once again turn Ireland’s oldest city into a winter wonderland from November 20 – December 23. A hit with the young and the young at heart alike, Winterval draws inspiration from the world-famous Christmas markets that take place annually throughout Europe – bringing the sights, sounds and smells of the season to city on the Suir. Centred around the historic Viking Triangle and the city’s many unique heritage site, visitors can take a ride on a horse drawn sleigh, a spin on the Vintage Ferris Wheel, and sample the best of the wonderful artisan food, gifts and crafts from the log cabins at Christmas Market.

G O

RA I L

G O

F OR

I T

G O

RA I L

G O

F OR

I T

Koanga

CORK FOLK FESTIVAL

John Spillane

A NIGHT AT THE OPERA Need To Know...

k at h r i n b a u m b ac h

WHERE: Wexford National Opera House WHEN: Oct 21 - Nov 1 NEAREST STATION: Wexford

Emotions will run high in the sunny southeast this October 21 – November 1 when the home of opera in Ireland, Wexford’s National Opera House, hosts the 64th Wexford Festival Opera. Rejection, jealousy and forbidden love are just some of the opera staples that inform the three-man stage productions running throughout the festival. From the first opera about AfricanAmericans, Koanga by Frederick Delius; to the gothic and blood soaked Guglielmo Ratcliff by Pietro Mascagni and the opéra comique of Le Pré aux clercs by Ferdinand Hérold – the festival offers a chance to see operas that have often languished neglected and underperformed. Now a world–famous event, the festival will see 52 events take place over a 12-day programme, including three daytime ShortWorks operas, concerts, lunchtime recitals, lectures and talks.

FRUITS OF THE SEA

Rackhouse Pilfer

Taking place in the beautiful coastal town widely regarded as the gourmet capital of Ireland, the 39th Kinsale Gourmet Festival (October 9–11) is a feast for foodies and fun lovers alike. The festival begins with a champagne reception at the Trident Hotel on the Friday night followed by ‘A Taste of West Cork’ five-course dining experience in a Good Food Circle Member Restaurant of your choice. One of the most unique events to take place over the weekend is the Mad Hatter’s Taste of Kinsale where visitors will follow Alice, the dormouse and friends on a foodie walking tour of the town. The festival concludes with an opulent banquet of local seafood at the Fruits de Mer Luncheon at Acton’s Hotel.

Go West Sligo Live, the Wild Atlantic Way’s answer to those pesky post-summer festival season blues, returns for a tenth-anniversary spectacular this October Bank Holiday weekend (23–25). Located in the northwest of the country, the festival caters to lovers of everything from folk and roots music to the latest in indie and much, much more. Musical events take place in various venues throughout the town, like 5th On Teeling, which will host hometown boys Rackhouse Pilfer on October 25, and The Hawkswell Theatre, which will welcome legendary Donegal outfit Altan on the same night. The primary focus for 2015 is sure to be the headlining sets at the Knocknarea Arena by Rufus Wainwright (October 23), The Waterboys (October 24) and Jools Holland and his Rhythm & Blues Orchestra. As an added incentive, Jools will be joined for his October 25 show by Pauline Black and Gaps Hendrickson of ska legends The Selecter.

For over 30 years, the Cork Folk Festival has kept the spirit of folk, roots and traditional music alive in the Rebel County. In that time it has earned a reputation that extends throughout Europe as one of the most significant gatherings of folk enthusiasts in Ireland. For four glorious days, from October 1–4, the Leeside concert halls, music venues, bars and streets will be filled with the music of the people, as practiced by international artists on the cutting edge and home-grown legends of the form. Look out for sets by the great and good of the Irish folk scene like Danu, Dervish, Donal Lunny & Paddy Glackin, The New Rope String Band and Cork’s own John Spillane.

IN THE CLINK

In its day Cork City Gaol was regarded as ‘the finest in three kingdoms’, its high walls ensuring there was no escape for those incarcerated within. The building, erected in 1824, now stands as a testament to the rich historical and archaeological heritage of Leeside. Located a mere 2km from the busy Patrick’s Street, the magnificent castle-like structure which once housed 19th century prisoners, is now a major and unique tourist destination and heritage centre. Visitors can wander through the wings of the Gaol where the cells are furnished with life-like wax figures and original graffiti, which chronicles the inner lives of the inmates who served time here, giving a fascinating insight into the day-to-day prison life of the time. The Gaol is open seven days a week all year round from 10am – 4pm, October to March, and from 9:30am – 5pm, April to September.

G O

RA I L

G O

F OR

I T

Swanning Up The Lee

Down in the Park Cork City Ballet is returning to the Cork City Opera House this November 18–21 (with a matinee on Saturday 21 at 2.30 pm) for a stunning full performance of one of the world’s best-loved ballets, Swan Lake. This reimagining of the 1855 Tchaikovsky classic includes all of the elements that have endeared the original to audiences around the world but promises a fairy tale twist ending where “the Prince destroys the evil sorcerer Rothbart, and is joyfully reunited with the Swan Queen.” The production will star Ekaterina Bortyakova and Akzhol Mussakhanov, the principal dancers from the renowned Moscow Ballet as well as dancers from The Marinsky Theatre, The Royal Swedish Ballet and the English National Ballet. Sure to be an enchanting spectacle, if you’ve never seen Swan Lake, now’s the time! Tickets are priced between €25 and €43 and are available from corkoperahouse.ie and from the box-office at 021 427 0022.

Two years ago Thomond Park was voted the number one rugby stadium in the world by rugby website intheloose.com. It’s not hard to see why when you take into account that it was the site of the Munster Rugby Team’s legendary 12 year unbeaten home run in the Heineken Cup and the grounds on which they famously defeated the All Blacks 12–0 in 1978. In 2008 the stadium was redeveloped to hold a match-day crowd of 27,000 and since then it has also been the go-to venue for international music stars like Bob Dylan, Rod Stewart and Bruce Springsteen. A tour of the grounds is now available during which visitors can see the home and away dressing rooms, the Munster dugout and walk down the tunnel to stand on the hallowed pitch. The tour also includes a visit to the Munster Experience museum. For more information, email: info@thomondpark.ie. For fixtures/match tickets, see www.munsterrugby.ie.

BLACKPUDDING, WHITEPUDDING, SAUSAGES AND RASHERS “Beyond Breakfast”- Why not try our products in a starter, salad or main course.

For more information or for recipe ideas, visit the website www.clonakiltyblackpudding.ie

G O

RA I L

G O

F OR

I T

The Roots and (below) Mark Ronson

Urban Beats Need To Know... WHERE: RDS, Dublin WHEN: Nov 7 – 8 NEAREST STATION: Lansdowne Road Dart

Metropolis, the newest addition to the capital’s bulging festival calendar, will take place at the RDS on November 7–8. The line-up is truly outstanding featuring, as it does, Jimmy Fallon house-band and Philly hip-hop legends The Roots, Electric Picnic heroes Hot Chip and Chic featuring Nile Rodgers, Jamie xx, Mark Ronson, disco pioneer Giorgio Moroder and many, many more. Demand for the quality packed festival was so high that early bird tickets quickly sold out but day tickets are still available. Metropolis will also feature a programme of performance, installation and conversation that is yet to be announced in full. Already this two-day event looks set to establish itself as a welcome annual reprieve from the winter blues.

Rich Hall

Comedy On The Coast 14

For its ten year anniversary the Galway Vodafone Comedy Carnival is planning a massive spectacular that will see the institution relocate from the wilds of Galway Bay to the Speigeltent in Eyre Square from October 20–26. While Dylan Moran has already sold out his three-night run in the Black Box there is plenty more talent on offer from a line up that features the best and brightest Irish and international comics. Homegrown heroes like Patrick Kielty, Deirdre O’Kane, Ardal O’Hanlon and Andrew Maxwell will be joined by rising stars Al Porter and Aisling Bea, while the international heavyweights include Stewart Lee, Rich Hall, Beardyman, Jason Manford and Seann Walsh. Other highlights on a bill that’s sure to have the city of tribes echoing with laughter include the Apres Match boys and The Simpson’s Back Stage Tour with longtime Simpson’s writer, Mike Reiss.

G O

RA I L

Red Line Book Festival

A Recipe for an Incredible Experience

his luxurious book festival is perfect for Autumn afternoons or evenings between October 11th and 17th. And the good news is that it is easy to get to, great value and a treat for impressing your friends! The bespectacled chefs at South Dublin Libraries nestled at the foothills of the Dublin Mountains have delicately put together only the best ingredients for you.

Ingredients:

• A fusion of Ireland’s best names in both fiction and non-fiction (not chopped)* • 1 beautiful theatre in a convenient location • 7 libraries filled to the brim with events, books, stories and ideas • 1/4 Small head white cabbage (shredded or finely chopped) (optional) • A generous handful of Ireland’s most creative thinkers and doers (TEDxTallaght) • Poets (ready chopped) • Books (read while waiting for the recipe to cook; your experience can only be enhanced, and opinion can vary massively) • 1 dessert spoon of great food • 1 dessert spoon of great wine • 1 dessert spoon of great company

*This year’s fusion of writers includes stimulating and rich in antioxidant writers Jennifer Johnston, Dermot Bolger, Martina Devlin, Carlo Gebler, Mary Costello, Michael O’Loughlin, Joe Duffy, Hugo Hamilton, Niamh Boyce, Gerry

Duffy, Julianne Mooney, Colman Noctor, Ferdia Mac Anna, History Ireland Hedge School featuring Ruth Dudley Edwards, Joost Augusteijn, Roisin Higgins and John Gibney and many many more. *Please note that no authors or speakers will be harmed during the cooking of this recipe. This is a super recipe for those autumn days when the evenings are getting darker and you are readying yourself for a winter filled with books. Take yourself off to The Red Line Book Festival - it’s convenient, well priced, packed full of goodness in delectable cosy surroundings. The key to this recipe is getting everything ready before you start and cutting everything small so it all cooks quickly. Prep will take only a couple of minutes, you can book over the phone or online to make it even quicker! Once you have your itinerary lined up with a big, hot, non-stick pan ready to go, this fresh, healthy and mind altering experience takes only moments to book at www. redlinebookfestival.ie. The taste will linger with you throughout the winter months. If you want to make a bigger batch, book multiple tickets and share the experience with your friends! The addition of TEDxTallaght, which brings together some of Ireland’s most innovative and thought provoking speakers, is a sure remedy to reduce any brain tedium you may be suffering and to get the juices of the mind and spirit back in perfect working order. From 3D printing of prosthetic limbs, nano technology to life changing moments, TEDxTallaght promises to be a fascinating and inspiring addition to this dish. This recipe has been created by South Dublin Libraries & Arts. You can see more at www. redlinebookfestival.ie or follow us on Facebook for more literary cooking tips.

G O

F OR

I T

T R A I N news

Get a “Mo” on!! Iarnród Éireann will be participating in Movember this year to raise awareness of the importance of men looking after their health. Staff members all around the country will be propagating moustaches to raise funds for men’s health projects. But it’s not just staff. We want our customers to send in photos of their mo’s too! When it comes to their health, too many men don't talk, don't take action and die too young. We want to help men live happier, healthier and longer lives. The Movember Foundation is a global men’s health charity that disrupts the status quo and advocates for men. We aim to have an everlasting impact on men’s health. Best known for challenging men to grow moustaches during Movember (the month formerly known as November), the Movember Foundation’s campaign is about starting fresh conversation about men’s health, and raising funds to deliver innovative, breakthrough programmes for men. Over five million have joined the movement since 2003, raising Ð469m and funding over 1,000 projects that focus on prostate cancer, testicular cancer, poor mental health and physical inactivity.

Why men's health?

The state of men’s health is in a crisis. Simply put, men are dying too young. Gender is one of the strongest and most consistent predictors of health and life expectancy. For men, this is not good news. On average, across the world, men die 6 years earlier than women. Moreover, poor mental health affects men more than women: three quarters of suicides are by men. The World Health Organisation estimates that 510,000 men die from suicide globally each year. That’s one every minute. The impact of prostate and testicular cancer on lives is substantial, with prostate cancer being the second most common cancer in men worldwide and the number of cases expected to almost double to 1.7 million cases by 2030. Yet this gender-based inequality in health has received little national, regional or global acknowledgement or attention from health policy-makers or healthcare providers. This is

exactly why the Movember Foundation focuses on men’s health. This is why Mo Bros and Mo Sistas from across the globe become a united voice every Movember, bringing vital funding and attention to the hidden men’s health crisis. This is not just an issue for men. In order to tackle the problem and work towards a world where future generations of men are not faced with the same issues as today, we need to take action at both an individual and community level. This means engaging men and women, businesses, sporting groups, community organisations, governments, health policy makers and healthcare providers in the efforts to reduce the current gender inequality in health outcomes.

How will we create positive change for men's health globally? We’re set apart by our unique role as a global connector and the global community we have built and continue to grow. We bring leading experts together from around the world to collaborate on solutions that will fundamentally change the way men are treated and supported. By looking at health through a gendered lens and focusing our efforts in four priority areas we ensure that each programme we fund is a step towards our vision for the future.

TRAINSPOTTING

THE JOURNEY’S ON US!

Love on the Line!

Geraldine & Ciarán’s eyes met on a platform – now they’re on track to marriage!

t started with glances on the platform, and on 14th August Geraldine McCauley was greeted on board by bubbly, flowers and a serenading tenor as she travelled into work for the last time before marrying her commuter sweetheart Ciarán O’Keeffe. Back in 2013, Ciarán O’Keeffe, a daily commuter on the Maynooth line, started to notice a gorgeous girl at Coolmine Station, with her earphones on hiding behind the newspaper while travelling into town on the train. It transpires that the girl, Geraldine McCauley, was also very aware of Ciarán on these journeys and that she even had begun calling him ‘train boy’ to her pals in work! Soon, Ciarán plucked up the courage to talk to Geraldine leaving the station one evening.... and Commuter Cupid struck! The next morning he spotted Geraldine at the station and before earphones could be put in and the paper opened he went straight over and started talking. They got on the train, stood right beside each other chatting

away like they had known each other all their lives. Just over two years later, as they prepared for their marriage and to celebrate this rail romance, Geraldine was surprised by tenor Simon Morgan and bubbly and flowers, as she and Ciarán took the 07.06hrs commuter service from Coolmine to Docklands for the final time before their wedding. An Iarnród Éireann spokesperson said: “Commuting is so integral to the daily lives of our customers and their communities, and people get to know their fellow commuters who they see every day. However, we’re all romantics at heart, so we were delighted to hear that the track to true love for Geraldine and Ciarán started at our station and wanted to wish them well as their romance approaches its destination – we hope Geraldine makes a punctual arrival at the wedding and doesn’t keep Ciarán waiting too long for her to move down the aisle and take her seat next to him one more time!”

TRAIN FACT No.003

THE MILES OF RAILROAD T R A C K I N T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S REACHED ITS PEAK IN 1916.

250,000 miles

It didn’t take long for railroads to catch on in the United States. In 1830, there were just 23 miles of railroad tracks in the United States. But within 20 years there were more than 9,000, as the U.S. government passed its first Railroad Land Grant Act, designed to attract settlers to the undeveloped parts of the country. By the beginning of the Civil War in 1861, there were 30,000 miles (more than 21,000 of them in the North), and lobbyists were clamoring for a transcontinental system across the nation. The number of railroad miles continued to climb until hitting its peak in 1916. That year there were more than 250,000 miles of track—enough to reach the moon from Earth.

“The Journey’s On Us” will provide 100 groups with a free group travel return journey for up to 50 people per group during 2014, meaning 5,000 free journeys are on offer across the company’s services. The travel facilities are ideal in particular for organisations bringing a group to a special event, or as part of a specific support to the members of the group which requires travel. Iarnród Éireann Chief Executive David Franks said: “Voluntary organisations are the lifeblood of communities across the country. However, like everyone, their budgets have been cut. We know there are youth, sports, music, voluntary, charity and other groups in the community who would benefit greatly from being able to undertake initiatives which involve a travel cost, but have had to scale back. We in Iarnród Éireann, through The Journey’s On Us, want to do what we can to help such groups achieve their goals, and say thank you to the organisations which play such a vital role in the daily lives of communities. The initiative is now in its third year. The interest and amount of groups applying has grown significantly each year, which we are absolutely delighted with.” Last year, over 700 groups applied for the scheme, and organisations ranging from Men’s Sheds to choirs, Special Olympics to Girl Guides, and groups representing youth and elderly, benefited from ‘The Journey’s On Us’. The initiative is being supported nationally by RTÉ Radio 1’s Countrywide. This year’s competition was launched by Brenda Donohue at Killarney Railway Station on September 19th last. Brenda was joined by Station Manager Catherine Cahill and earlymorning supporters headed to Croke Park for the All-Ireland Football final. Countrywide will also feature successful groups throughout the year.

T R A I N news More Street Art for Broombridge Cabra Youth Group has created more Street Art at Broombridge Railway Station. The Cabra for Youth group were really happy with how the original street art looked and always wanted to come back on site and try out some more ideas. Minister for Transport Paschal Donohoe, along with Anne Graham, Chief Executive of the NTA and David Franks, Chief Executive of Iarnród Éireann

Phoenix Rising

Trains from Kildare to Connolly & Grand Canal Dock to commence next year as Phoenix Park Tunnel line upgrade begins as Minister Donohoe launches 13.7 million euro project.

Commuters on the Kildare to Dublin Heuston line will have the option of direct trains to Connolly, Tara St, Pearse and Grand Canal Dock Stations from late 2016, and scope for expansion of services, as a 13.7 million euro project to upgrade the Phoenix Park Tunnel line has commenced. Funded by the Department of Transport, Tourism and Sport through the National Transport Authority, the physical works to upgrade the route were launched by Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport Paschal Donohoe TD on 18th August last, along with Anne Graham, Chief Executive of the NTA and David Franks, Chief Executive of Iarnród Éireann. Together with ongoing re-signalling works between Connolly and Grand Canal Dock, the project will allow regular commuter trains to operate through the Phoenix Park Tunnel for the first time by upgrading the tunnel and route, and increasing the number of train services which can operate on the line between Connolly and Grand Canal Dock.

The Project Includes: • Cutting stabilisation, drainage and vegetation clearance • Tunnel upgrade – cleaning, masonry repairs, lighting, signage, telecoms • Renewal of a section of track, points and crossings and components • Signal relocation • Station works – upgrade works at Drumcondra to include new ticket gates, and upgrade works at Tara St station to include new southbound lift shaft • Services on the Kildare commuter line will be a mix of Kildare to Dublin Heuston and Kildare to Grand Canal Dock services, offering new connections to commuters. The new services will commence in autumn 2016. Speaking at the launch of the project in Heuston Station, Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport Paschal Donohoe TD said: “I very much welcome this innovative new public transport project. For the first time, commuters on the popular Kildare suburban rail line will have frequent services directly into the heart of the south city business district. This will provide

an attractive alternative for private motorists who currently commute into the city along the congested N7 corridor. I would like to congratulate NTA and Iarnród Éireann on their successful partnership in planning projects such as this, which seek to promote modal shift to more sustainable public transport options.” Anne Graham, Chief Executive of the National Transport Authority said: “the NTA is delighted that the works are now commencing on the Phoenix Park Tunnel, a project that the Authority promoted and funded. Both the Phoenix Park tunnel and the on-going work on the city centre re-signalling will exploit the full potential of existing rail infrastructure at minimal cost and will offer more rail travel options for public transport customers.” David Franks, Iarnród Éireann Chief Executive, said: “we look forward to giving improved connections to new and existing customers through the upgrade of the Phoenix Park Tunnel line. They will be of particular benefit for those commuting between the Kildare line and the south city area served by Pearse and Grand Canal Dock, offering direct connections which are not currently available by public transport.”

Interesting facts about the Phoenix Park Tunnel: • The Phoenix Park Tunnel is 757 yards long. The full line from Islandbridge to Glasnevin Junction is 2.75 miles long, and after the tunnel section continues through Cabra before joining the Maynooth line at Glasnevin Junction. • The line and tunnel were opened in 1877. • Currently the line is used for freight services, transfer of trains between maintenance depots, and special trains for events like matches, concerts and charters. • Regular commuter services have never operated through the tunnel in the modern era due to capacity constraints at Connolly Station, which are being addressed by current re-signalling works. • The line has occasionally been used for scheduled Intercity services, most recently two Sunday services from Limerick and Galway which operated between June 1998 and September 2001.

On Friday 21st August, Philip Moll, Youth Justice Worker with Cabra For Youth and five young women (Chelsea Maguire, Joanne Quirke, Katie McMahon, Mickela Losty and Katelyn Walker) returned to Broombridge Station to continue the artwork. Philip Moll observed: “A big thanks to Iarnród Éireann for allowing us create our art in our local area at our local Railway Station. The girls were really pleased with how close the work came out to their original ideas and were really happy with the final product.” The Street Art project was launched originally on the 14th August last year as part of the community initiative involving the Gardaí, Residential Groups, Youth Groups and the Rail Company, which has seen significant improvements in the Broombridge Station area and reductions in levels of anti-social behaviour. The station has had a consistent issue with anti-social behaviour over a number of years. However, in recent months, a programme of initiatives has been put in place, including: • Improved CCTV, public lighting and seating at the station • A clean-up week, with the support of DIT Students • Providing facilities on the station property for the local kayaking club • Environmental improvements through gardening and planting waste ground area • Garda monitoring, and successful prosecutions of offenders As well as improving the station environment, the programme of initiatives has seen anti-social behaviour incidents in the station’s area reduce by over 50% in recent times.

The Iarnród Éireann Online Seat Sale is back!

TRAINSPOTTING

Great weekends start by train; enjoy the experience from the moment you get on board! You can sit back and relax in comfort, read a book, surf the web with our free Wi-Fi, enjoy some downtime, have a bite to eat or catch up with friends. Enjoy all of this and much, much more with our fantastic web fares. For more details please go to www.irishrail.ie

LOW RAIL ADHESION AUTUMN LEAF FALL & TRAIN DELAYS

Each-Way Web Fares To/From Dublin Start From*; LOCATION Belfast Cork Ennis Galway Limerick Rosslare Sligo Tralee Waterford Westport

TRAIN* €14.99 €14.99 €14.99 €14.99 €14.99 €12.99 €14.99 €14.99 €12.99 €14.99

CAR** €24.60 €39.65 €36.30 €31.05 €30.00 €23.00 €31.05 €44.45 €25.35 €37.40

Online fares available for booking from 21st September to 31st October 2015. **Figures obtained from AA Roadwatch are estimates as of 27th July 2015 and are based on the current average Irish fuel price and a typical fuel consumption figure for a mid-range car. These figures do not include toll charges, tax, insurance etc. Online fares available for booking from 21st September to 31st October 2015. **Figures obtained from AA Roadwatch are estimates as of 27th July 2015 and are based on the current average Irish fuel price and a typical fuel consumption figure for a mid-range car. These figures do not include toll charges, tax, insurance etc. *TERMS AND CONDITIONS APPLY

Everyone has heard the apologies for delays due to “leaves on the line” – but what does that mean? How can a small thing like leaves affect a big heavy train? The leaf fall in autumn often causes poor rail head conditions and can affect performance in a number of ways. When leaves fall on to the line, particularly in damp or wet weather, the rolling action of passing wheels compresses them, causing a greasy ‘mulch’ to cover the rail. This mulch is to rails what ice is to roads. It reduces the adhesion, or ‘co-efficient of friction’ to use the technical term, between wheel and rail. Acceleration must be reduced to prevent slipping, and braking distances extended. If you’re a regular customer, you can probably sense the wheel “slipping” on a train if you’re travelling through an area that’s affected. This is why minor delays are more prevalent at this time of year, particularly in the early morning and early evening. The leaf mulch can also affect the operation of track circuits. Iarnród Éireann has machinery to address this problem, which operates overnight on key sections of the network, water-jetting and spreading “Sandite” on the line. However, this can only reduce the impact of leaf mulch rather than eliminate it. The mulch is Teflonlike, and even hand-scrubbing could not remove it.

G O

F E A T U R E

I R E L A N D

T H E

T A K E S

O N

W O R L D

Ireland travel to the Rugby World Cup with more hope than ever before. GoRail meets star player Robbie Henshaw, and the mastermind behind their quest for glory, manager Joe Schmidt.

W O R D S C O L M

P H O T O O ’ R E G A N

“I

t’s been a hell of a journey,” rugby star Robbie Henshaw smiles. “I certainly didn’t see myself in this position last year.”

Indeed, it’s been a monumental 12 months for the Athlone man. Still only 22 he is the youngest player in Ireland’s rugby World Cup squad. He scored his first international try against England – scooping man-ofthe-match honours in the process – and, of course, play a crucial part in Ireland’s Six Nations triumph. Now he’s on the frontline as Ireland seek to make history and reach the World Cup semis for the first time. “That final game against Scotland is the one I’ll remember for a long time,” he says, recalling the climax of the tournament. “We went out and did the business, but the wait after it was pretty gruelling. Waiting to see what happened in the England v France game was horrendous.” Indeed, Robbie admits that the quiet men of Irish rugby were driven to their wits end watching the key clash on television. “It was incredibly intense up until that final whistle. A lot of us were up shouting, about an inch from the TV. I can’t remember the whole game, but I certainly witnessed the last few minutes so I know I was one of those who turned rogue, completely in my own zone screaming at the screen. Simon Zebo was beside me, and Peter O’Mahony too; giving it socks, and praying that France would just get the ball off the field so we could lift the cup!” Of course, lift it they did; now, the men in green are eyeing up a different trophy. When GoRail visits the Carton House training base of the Irish team, final preparations are underway for the Rugby World Cup in England. “It’s not easy to keep calm and collected,” he confesses. “Your mind’s racing all of the time, thinking of what’s next. But the way they have run camp is brilliant. We get to go home, we get to see our families, and we get to mix it up and switch off for rest and recovery days. We haven’t been together for massive blocks, which is great.” While we’re sure that Mrs. Henshaw is only delighted to see her son arrive home,

K A T H R I N

B A U M B A C H

you imagine the local shopkeepers are overjoyed too. To keep his 6’3”, 16 stoneplus physique in perfect nick, his diet demands up to 4000 calories a day. “It’s mum’s job to fill the fridge when I’m coming home,” he says with a smile. “I get the text just before I leave camp – ‘Are you home tonight for sure?’ – so that she can get the groceries in!” There’ll be plenty more assistance from Robbie’s family over the weeks ahead – albeit from the stands. “My father travels to most of the games anyway, but I have a good few family members coming over, along with a good few friends. We know there’s a massive Irish contingent over there anyway, but with travelling support it’ll probably be an Irish takeover! Nearly every second person is telling me they have a ticket for this game or that, and the fans are going to drive us on. They always do, and give us that extra spark.” Indeed, there’s been plenty of other familiar faces doing their bit to drive Ireland towards glory. “Usain Bolt came in the night before we played England in Twickenham,” a slightly star-struck Robbie recalls. “He spent a couple of hours, and had dinner with us. It was incredible; to me, he’s up there with my biggest sporting heroes, just a legend of world sport. My mind was blown – I couldn’t believe it. We’ve had Christy Moore in, and Tommy Tiernan too; a few characters to break things up a little.” And when a spark is needed on the pitch, there’s no shortage of highly-decorated teammates there to help. “To have those characters there is unbelievable, they really offer a lot to all the younger guys in the squad. It just gives that extra bit of confidence, when they’re out there egging us on. They definitely get you psyched up for the game, too.” To that end, few are as valuable as the talismanic captain, Paul O’Connell. The Munster great hangs up his green shirt to join Toulon at the end of the tournament, but Robbie insists nobody is thinking about that move too much. ““We don’t really look on the emotional side of it. There was no talk about his last home game against Wales or anything like

G O

F E A T U R E

Once were warriors: Ireland stars Sean O’Brien, Paul O’Connell and Dave Kearney

“We’re an open book” _ J O E

S C H M I D T

that. There’s a bit of slagging around the dinner table though, asking him how the French lessons are going, or taking sly digs about how he’ll enjoy the sun!” While there may not be a lot of sun to enjoy in England over the coming weeks, it could be a very bright Halloween should Ireland find themselves in the final come October 31. Their star centre, though, it concentrating on taking things one step at a time. Meanwhile, when GoRail asks the Ireland coach about his plan, we’re met with a poker face that would put fear into gamblers everywhere. “I think we’re a relatively open book,” smiles Joe Schmidt. “Teams that do their homework will have a pretty good indication of how we play.” The affable New Zealander could well be hiding something up his sleeve; indeed, many place our World Cup hopes squarely on his shoulders. Having masterminded back-to-back Six Nations triumphs over the past two years – as well as consecutive

Heineken Cup triumphs with Leinster before that – he is hailed as one of the best coaches in the world. But he insists there’s no secret system behind his success. “I wish it was as scientific as that!” he laughs. “I wish there was some sort of mathematical formula that could automatically calculate what the best selection would be, but some of it is an assessment that’s almost intuitive.” Though intuition certainly plays a part, so too does meticulous preparation. While the strengths and weaknesses of the Italian and French sides that await in Pool D – as well as those of his own players – will have been sorted with a fine tooth comb, so too have the men in the middle. “A referee’s decision – sometimes a number of them – might control the outcome of the game. You adjust not just to the opponents, but also to the referees; how they will be arbitrating throughout, and especially what their priorities are at the break down and at the set-piece.”

Like Robbie, it’s also a first Rugby World Cup for the coach; just as Robbie has looked towards those who’ve been there for guidance and encouragement, Joe reveals he called upon his predecessor, Declan Kidney, for a few words of advice. “We had a very informal chat,” Joe says of his meeting with his fellow former teacher. “I found it really interesting. Obviously I don’t have the experience, so it was very good to talk to someone who has. It probably shaped a few of the things that we’ve done.” A mixed-bag in warm-up games – two wins, followed by two defeats – led many to believe that there may have been an element of keeping the powder dry, and that eyes were firmly on the main event. Indeed, the demolition of Canada on the first weekend of the tournament suggests that the green machine is in ship shape for the challenges ahead. The path has been laid out, and the hard yards in training put in. Now, it’s time to take on the world; a nation lives in hope.

One of Corkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Best Visitor Attractions Open Seven Days a Week

Sundays Well, Convent Avenue, Cork City Phone: (021) 4305022 Email: info@corkcitygaol.com Web: www.corkcitygaol.com

G O

F E A T U R E

M A N

“I

O N

t’s too hot!” moans James down the phone. “It’s crazy hot, it’s about 110 degrees here. I’m way too ginger for this, I’ll just turn into one giant freckle!”

James took his first dive into the touring lifestyle earlier this year with the lads from Kodaline, spending much of the time on the road “jamming down the back of the bus and writing songs, it was great”. As a solo performer, James, who’s from Dublin’s northside, jumps at the opportunity to collaborate with other artists, and hone his own skills by observing their artistic process. “I loved travelling with the lads, it reminds me of when I was starting out. I used to go to all these open mic nights, and learning off other people is the best way to do it. I know some people like to write by themselves, but I was writing with Steven and Mark and it’s good to see how other people write. Me and Steve have a fairly similar process; coming up with the melody and then trying to find out what the song is about.” One thing James has desperately been trying to learn from other performers is how to overcome nerves before a gig, a lesson he had not learned by the time he got on stage in Croke Park to support Ed Sheeran last month. “I was terrified!” he laughs. “I don’t know why, the day before I was fine, and was actually worried because I wasn’t nervous — because I get nervous before everything. Then when I was sitting backstage I thought: ‘My God, I’m going to die.’ I hid in a corner for about 20 minutes before I went on stage.” But when James stepped on stage to the sounds of 80,000 people cheering for him, nerves were rapidly replaced with a surge of joy and adrenaline. “It’s mad, it’s absolutely crazy,” says James, struggling to find the words to describe the feeling. “I think everyone who goes into music dreams of doing that. There’s a bucket list of things you want to accomplish and experience, and that was definitely one of them.” While James won over the Croker crowd and has amassed a throng of loyal fans here on home soil, he admits that some aspects of his performance don’t smoothly translate across the waters to the States — his

F I R E G AV I N JA ME S IS ARGUAB LY IREL A N D ’ S H OT TE ST YOUN G S ON GW RITE R . H E’ S PL AY ED CROK E PARK W ITH ED SH EER A N , TOURED W ITH D UB L IN STA D I U M ROCK ERS KODA L IN E A N D SUPP ORTED B ON D MOV IE SIN GER SAM S MITH . H E SP OK E TO ROE M C D E RMOT T FROM S W ELTERIN G A USTIN , TE X A S . P H O T O DAV ID S TA N L E Y

accent, for example. “They don’t understand me!” laments the man from Cabra. “I talk a lot during my show, I’m a bit of a rambler and I make jokes, but they don’t understand my accent! I end up telling the same jokes twice in one show – the first time I’ll get nothing because I’m talking too fast, then I say it really, really slowly later on and they’ll be cracking up. Even in restaurants and stuff, I sometimes have to put on an American accent to order things, even water, otherwise I’ll be there for an hour!” And it’s not just the American twang that James has mastered – it seems that he’s found his inner cowboy, revealing that one of the highlights of his American adventures was horse riding in Colorado – though he assures me it was without the Eastwood-style Spaghetti Western hat, or the bare chest. While in the Rocky Mountains Gavin also experienced altitude sickness, mere hours before a gig. “Because you’re so high up, the air is thin and about an hour before the gig I stood up and nearly passed out. I had to be put on an IV drip, it was such a weird feeling. In fairness, I’ve such a huge head, the air has further to travel.” James took a brief break from his tour to fly home and play Electric Picnic, where the Rankin Wood Tent was packed with fans — some who have loved his songs for years, and some new ones who were interested to see the guy about whom Ed Sheeran tweeted: “If you ignore Gavin James you’re missing out on a lot.” Gavin played a mix of songs, including newbie ‘Bitter Pill’ as well as unique and wonderful mash-ups of Michael Jackson’s ‘Billy Jean’ and The Weeknd’s ‘Can’t Feel My Face.’ The crowd — which was easily twice the size of the audience he had at Electric Picnic last year — were besotted, and the feeling was clearly mutual. “This is my favourite gig I’ve ever done — ever.” There’s no place like home.

TUNE SMITH GAVIN ON HIS FAMOUS TOUR BUDDY... “He’s such an amazing person, he’s very talented, but still so humble, which makes him a great performer — it’s pure emotion. I’ve been touring with him, but still, every time I hear him sing ‘Lay Me Down’ it’s incredible — it’s such an epic song and he puts all of himself into it. I think being a humble person is important too. Particularly in Ireland and the UK we’re not into divas; that whole thing of walking on stage thinking you’re a god doesn’t work for us. That’s why Sam and Ed are so great, they’re just cool lads. “I like trying to learn from everyone I see and tour with, and Sam is incredible at talking to crowds. He really connects with them, he talks about his songs and the inspiration behind them and that’s something I’ve started to do, particularly in the States because no one knows me! So it’s good to talk a bit about your songs and who you are as a person too. I just have to explain it slowly so they understand me! “Sam and myself were very responsible altogether on that tour, there weren’t too many nights out, because we’ve both been making sure our voices are OK to sing. And I’ve been hopping about the place on planes and cars while he’s on the bus so we haven’t gotten into much trouble.”

G O

F E A T U R E

T H E

P E O P L E ’ S

R E P U B L I C

O F

J A Z Z

A S TH E CRE A M OF LOC A L A N D INTERNATIONA L TA L ENT FLOCK TO L E E SIDE FO R TH E G U I N N E SS CORK JA Z Z FE STIVA L , M A RY S TOK E S TA L K S TO COL M O’ H A RE ABO U T THE REB EL CIT Y ’ S WON DERFUL W EEK EN DER

ust three years away from its 40th anniversary, the Guinness Cork Jazz Festival remains one of the highlights of the Irish musical and cultural calendar. One of Europe’s biggest jazz events, the festival attracts over 40,000 visitors to Cork who, along with the locals, get to enjoy over 1,000 musicians performing in more than 80 venues over the October bank holiday weekend. Since 1978, when the very first Cork Jazz Festival took place, legends such as Ella Fitzgerald, Oscar Peterson, Dave Brubeck, Dizzy Gillespie, Chick Corea, and many more, have appeared in Cork. In more recent years the festival programme has evolved to embrace a much wider palette of musical styles and genres, including world music, electronic and even hip-hop. But jazz and blues remain at the heart of the weekend and this year sees another strong line-up that includes jazz artists Cassandra Wilson, Booka Brass and Marcus Miller, along with soul legends The Drifters and electro-pop star Gary Numan. Apart from big-name headliners appearing at the major venues, the Guinness Music Trail features dozens of acts performing, usually free of charge, in the bars and hotels around Cork city. One of those acts, The Mary Stokes Band, has been a stalwart of the festival bill from as far back as 1988. For the past 20 years the acclaimed Dublin-based blues outfit has graced the stage of just one venue — the well-known pub Counihan’s Bar on Pembroke Street. They’re back again this year and will no doubt be drawing the crowds in their droves over the weekend. “We play five or six gigs over the four days and every gig is jam packed,” says Mary Stokes who fronts the band along with her husband, harmonica player Brian Palm. “We start off

on the Friday evening and run right through to the Monday. It has allowed us to reach very big audiences because each gig that we do has two sets, so that’s about 10 sets over the course of the weekend. The crowds have been so great that we’ve had queues around the block with people having to be turned away at times.” According to Stokes, no two gigs at Counihan’s are the same and the crowd varies quite a bit too. “The night-time gigs are full-on, hell-for-leather, hold-onto-your-seat territory, but the afternoon shows are more relaxed and allow us a little more freedom to be experimental. We get more families and even toddlers coming along then too so it’s a little less frantic. “The band has changed to a point now where much of our set would be originals,” she adds. “But we still play homage to our heroes and this year we’ll be doing a tribute to the memory of the late BB King.” Such is their following at Cork Jazz that the band has attracted its own loyal fan base with regular faces showing up every year, some travelling from abroad. “One year a group of bikers came over from Germany and somehow landed up at our gig. Since then there has been at least one representative from that gang every year. One of them is now regarded as being part of our crew — he even does some videos for us.” Guest artists, including some of the big names appearing on the festival bill, regularly drop by for impromptu appearances. Stokes explains, “All sorts of artists come up and play with us including legends like the late Jackie McLean, the New York sax player, to give one example. There was one time when Mary Coughlan was due to join us for a few songs but the place was so packed that she couldn’t get in the door. So she had to climb in through a window near the stage! “One of the things we’ve tried to do is to have the very best sound quality we can in

terms of PA systems. This year we’re excited to be working with PreSonus who are helping us out with some cool new technology for our live sound. Mixing is done using iPads and using their new RM rack mixers instead of our usual big old desks.” Despite the fact that the band is busy all weekend, they still manage to get out and see some of the other acts appearing. “We do our best to catch as much as we can and there’s been a few standout gigs over the years. One was Buddy Guy and Junior Wells — and that was despite the fact that they came onstage at the Opera House at about 4am. Champion Jack Dupree was another one we would have felt very connected to. There have been some great drummers at the festival over the years — Billy Cobham was great and Ginger Baker last year. We’d usually have the mornings free and there are nice things such as an organ recital at St Fin Barres Cathedral which is an antidote to everything else that goes on over the weekend.” According to Stokes, not everything runs smoothly for the band and they’ve had to overcome some challenges over the years. “There was one year when one of our roadies forgot to pack Brian’s harmonica case which, for us, is a disaster. It was late and we were just about to go onstage. We thought, ‘What are we going to do?’ and we had a very animated discussion about it. Then there was a tap on the shoulder from this fellow who said, ‘I own Crowley’s music store up on McCurtain Street.’ So he took Brian up to the shop, opened it up and let him have a selection of harmonicas. It was the sort of thing that could only happen in Cork, which still has that strong sense of connection with the musicians. It’s why we love it so much.” The Guinness Cork Jazz Festival runs from Oct 23 to Oct 25

K AT H R I N B A U M B A C H

Mary Stokes and (inset from top) The Drifters and Booka Brass Band: all playing Cork Jazz Festival

G O

F E A T U R E

‘ I ’ L L

B E T H E

hen Arnold Schwarzenegger walks into a room, everyone turns to stare. Dressed in a Republican blue blazer and jeans, on his hands are quite obvious symbols of the unexpected duality of this bodybuilder-turned-actor-turned-Governor. One finger bears a silver signet ring with an emblem; a memento, he tells me, of his time in office. Another bears a ring with a huge, almost fist-sized skull, with rubies in the eyes. These huge chunks of metal add to the overwhelming feeling you get that Arnie isn’t one to be messed with. However, you also notice another thing: despite his protestations, he definitely isn’t 6ft 2in. Not that I’ll be telling him that. Schwarzenegger recently reprised his role as the Terminator – or, as he’s credited, the Guardian – in Terminator Genisys; Alan Taylor’s latest incarnation of James Cameron’s classic sci-fi action film. This moniker change indicates the character’s development; no longer the heartless killing machine from the first movies, this Terminator has been watching and protecting Sarah Connor (Emilia Clarke of Game Of Thrones) since she was a child, and has forged an emotional bond with her. Terminator Genisys marks Schwarzenegger’s return to the franchise, after choosing not to be a part of Terminator Salvation. “I did not do Terminator 4 because I was Governor – even I can’t do both! People would be very upset if I said I’m leaving Sacramento for five months because I’m doing Terminator. I made it very clear to them that I wouldn’t even do one single shot; the people would just feel cheated.” Director Alan Taylor and screenwriter Laeta Kalogridis were thrilled to have the original Terminator back, with Kalogridis saying that he considered Schwarzenegger’s character, “the ultimate Tin Man – how does he become the cornerstone and the heart of the story, for a character that essentially has no heart? There was something really tantalising about the idea of Arnold playing a Terminator who has aged – of not trying to do any crazy CG stuff, but to respect the change in the actor. The Terminator was always very much of its time, so to be able to tell the story in the moment and the age that Arnold is ... it interested us

B A C K ’ T E R M I N A T O R

R E T U R N S

HE’S BEEN A CHAMPION BODYBUILDER, A HIGH-POWERED POLITICIAN, AND ONE OF THE BIGGEST MOVIE STARS ON THE PLANET. SO THERE’S NO SHORTAGE OF TOPICS OF CONVERSATION WHEN ROE McDERMOTT MET ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER.

all. The human tissue surrounding the cyborg ages, but he’s also aged on the inside through his very long experience with humans all this time. We thought it would be so much fun to explore.” “It’s like riding a bicycle,” grins Schwarzenegger. “You fall right back into it. I remember when I read the script and I started then practising the lines. I started talking like a machine again. It was kind of like you slip into that character.” But then, the actor is well used to switching in and out of unique roles. While many of us only know Schwarzenegger as a bodybuilder and actor, in America he’s been building a very different set of skills. Schwarzenegger was Governor of California from 2003 to 2011; a career that was admired for his passionate and progressive policies regarding the environment, and criticised due to allegations of sexual misconduct. Despite the controversies that surrounded his time in office, it’s clear that politics is now where Schwarzenegger’s heart lies. He says that while he’s glad to be starring in Terminator Genisys, he didn’t miss acting while living the political life. “I didn’t miss it at all, I was very busy with the Governorship; you know, the sixth-largest economy in the world in California so you have your hands full. You have an enormous amount of challenges so I was at an all-time high during that period. But then you have term limits, and there’s a reason for term limits; to let someone in with new ideas. So it was perfect time-wise; I was able to fulfil my duties in Sacramento then return to acting, which I always intended to do. But I am still involved in policies through the Schwarzenegger Institute, and I keep my environmental crusade going.” The actor is referring to his USC Schwarzenegger Institute for State and Global Policy, devoted to seeking bipartisan solutions to environmental, economic, and other public policy issues. He admits that while he didn’t miss making movies while he was Governor,

he’s already missing not being in office. “I sometimes miss it, yes, when certain decisions are made that I feel very passionate about, I miss being there and being able to make decisions. But luckily I’m not like some politicians who don’t have a job, and just do speeches when they get out.” Reprising his role as the Terminator, he found the character more interesting now that he has been allowed to evolve – and age. “I’m a combination of Terminator and protecting; doing the terminating if someone is threatening Sarah Connor, but also protecting her by being the fatherly figure for her. Protector in another way. So you have to be very careful in how you play that in each moment. It helped that I’ve had daughters — my first daughter was born when we did Total Recall in Mexico, and she’s now 25 years old. And so when you grow up, and when you’re the father of two daughters, you learn a lot including how to be protective. That experience helped me a lot.” Schwarzenegger has been open about his desire to be President of the United States, remarking that the only thing holding him back are the laws that demand presidential hopefuls are born in America. “Everyone knows that if I’d been Americanborn, I would probably run for president, because why not? I could do a better job than these guys can, trust me!” laughs the Austrian. As Donald Trump continues to gain supporters in the States, it’s hard to argue with him. “But that job’s not available and I am not going to complain about it because everything that I have accomplished in my life is because of America. So I’m not going to complain about the one job that I can’t do.” For now, his acting slate is quickly filling up, with roles in Conan The Barbarian and the Twins sequel, Triplets, already in the bag. The actor smiles. “I promised you I’d be back.” Terminator Genisys is available on DVD from November 10.

G O

F E A T U R E

T R A I N T O

F R E E D O M

ESTEEMED COMPOSER BILL WHELAN OF RIVERDANCE FAME TALKS TO COLM O’HARE ABOUT THE TRAIN, A NEW MUSICAL THAT LOOKS AT THE REVOLUTIONARY JOURNEY TAKEN BY IRISH WOMEN IN THE FIGHT FOR LEGAL CONTRACEPTION. PORTRAIT: KATHRIN BAUMBACH

n May of 1971, a group of women took the train from Dublin to Belfast with the sole purpose of purchasing contraceptives, the sale of which were at the time illegal south of the border. Orchestrated by the Irish Women’s Liberation Movement, the travelling party, which numbered almost 50, was made up of a disparate but determined group of ordinary housewives, students, women’s rights campaigners and several well-known journalists, including Nell McCafferty and Mary Kenny. Later that day, they returned triumphantly to Dublin waving their contraband in the air before a large media and Garda presence, giving two metaphorical fingers to the laws of the land in the process. It was seen as a watershed moment in Irish society and marked the first salvo in a two-decade-long battle to legalise contraception in the Republic. A new musical, The Train, is a fictional account of the actual events surrounding what became known as the Contraceptive Train. Staged by Rough Magic Theatre Company, lyrics are by Arthur Riordan (Improbable Frequency) and the music is composed by Bill Whelan, best known for the worldwide smash Riverdance. It makes its world premiere in October at the Lime Tree Theatre in Limerick followed by a run at Project Arts Centre as part of the Dublin Theatre Festival. For composer Bill Whelan, who was a student in Dublin at the time, the project was a challenge musically, as well as an exercise in nostalgia. “There are 24 new songs in it which is quite a lot of music,” Whelan says. “For me, there was the decision about what musical idiom in which to work in. The people who were involved in those left-wing, revolutionary campaign at the time were probably listening to a lot of folk music – Bob Dylan, Leonard

Cohen and Pete Seeger, as well as the West Coast music that would have been popular at the time. My problem was, should I go there to look for the inspiration for the music? But in fact I didn’t. I stayed completely away from that and there’s actually more of a jazz flavour to it. “It made sense to me,” he continues. “That whole women’s movement in Ireland started out in a place called Gaj’s restaurant on Baggot Street in Dublin, where I used to go regularly as a college student. Down the road from Gaj’s was a record shop called Discfinder where I bought a lot of jazz albums at the time. So it’s nostalgic for me, musically.” Working on the project, Whelan says he began to reflect on the Ireland of the ’60s and ’70s and how things have changed for the better over the years. “It’s incredible the knots we got ourselves into back then,” he ponders. “When I tell friends of mine in the States about this story they just start smiling in disbelief. It really was a different country. It came as a shock to me that, for example, women didn’t get onto juries in Ireland until 1976. I was thinking, ‘Was I really living as an adult at a time when women weren’t allowed onto juries?’ I did a law degree at college and we didn’t study family law. It just wasn’t a subject and wasn’t even considered to be a concern.” He concedes that while the story might not have the same worldwide appeal as something like Riverdance it does have something to say beyond the confines of Ireland. “When I started working on it, that was my very first thought – that this is a purely Irish story and something that will only resonate with Irish people. It didn’t stop me from becoming involved as I was still very interested in the subject. But as I got more into it, I realised that the story has a resonance for people who live in the Middle East for instance. It’s a narrow event in one sense but the reach of the story is far greater.” The question of whether to involve or to

portray some of the original participants in the production was, he says something that was carefully considered. “There was engagement with some of the women who were involved and they came to some of our workshop performances. But there is no portrayal in the play of any of them individually, though there might some aspects of a few personalities rolled into one. There’s no Nell McCafferty character for example. “It wasn’t as cut and dried then as it might seem now either. There were personality issues at the time and there was an ambiguity and some people had doubts. Some of those involved were in familial situations that they had to step outside of to make a point. It was difficult for those families and for the husbands. It does have that capacity for humour which wasn’t lost on Arthur Riordan. It’s not Father Ted. Even though it’s very funny in places – it’s not an attempt to lampoon Irishness. It’s an examination of what we can become if a society makes laws that affect us.” The eight-strong cast includes Lisa Lambe, Clare Barrett, Kate Gilmore, Darragh Kelly and Emmet Kirwan. The Train is directed by Lynne Parker, and the production features a live band under the musical direction of Cathal Synott. Whelan says: “The cast is substantially women, though there are two men included. It was really very encouraging to see the number of women who could act and sing and had a number of other skills under their belts. And we’ve a terrific band too. “Arthur is such a skilful lyric writer and a very musical one. I’m not sure what people are expecting and it’s probably best that we don’t tell them (laughs). But it’ll be interesting to see how they react.” See The Train from September 29 to October 3 at Lime Tree Theatre, Limerick and from October 6 to October 17 in The Project Arts Centre, Dublin

Bill Whelan and (inset) Karen McCarthy, Lisa Lambe and Sophie Jo Wasson

G O

F E A T U R E

T E N D E R

M E R C I E S O N E O F I RE L A N D ’ S M O S T HI GH LY- RE G A RD E D YO U N G W RI T E R S , B E L I N DA M C K E O N TA L K S TO A N N E SE X TON AB OUT H ER ACCL A IMED N E W NOV E L, TE NDE R .

here is an old cliché that writers, especially aspiring ones, should write what they know. For her second novel, Belinda McKeon has followed that advise. The result is Tender, a beautifully written book that is sure to feature on many ‘Best of ’ lists for 2015. Tender is the story of Catherine and James, two young people who meet in Dublin in the mid-1990s. Catherine is a student at Trinity; James has returned from Berlin where he is working as an assistant to a famous photographer. “Their story is one of instant connection, but it’s Catherine’s story and the way she becomes obsessed with James and the reasons why,” says McKeon. “I have found myself saying that the novel is about young love, but I was thinking that it’s really not.” The novel is, McKeon says, partly autobiographical, but she won’t be drawn on the details, preferring to let readers tease out the factual from the imaginative if they so wish. “I suppose we all have a fondness for gossip! I’m completely guilty of that. All fiction is autobiographical in a way. There is a lot of me in the novel, but a lot of it is not me as well. That becomes impossible to articulate. There’s a blurred line between the reality and the imagined. I don’t know what to say. I just wanted to write the story of these two people and although there is an autobiographical core, most of the novel is actually fictional.” The novel may be fictional, but Catherine and McKeon share biographical similarities. Catherine is a student at Trinity at the time McKeon was there. The geography and boundaries of Catherine’s Dublin is the city McKeon knew as during her time at college — the same clutch of streets, pubs, coffee

shops and greasy spoons. But perhaps most importantly, both Catherine and McKeon are from Longford. This, however, had not been the author’s original intention. “I did try to set the rural part of the story in a more generic part of Ireland but that felt like an artificial constraint. So I thought, ‘No, she’s from Longford.’ I think trying to move Catherine to another part of Ireland was part of the process of resisting the autobiographical elements of the story. A lot of getting the book and becoming able to write it was acknowledging to myself that I was going to have to put stuff in there that looked deeply personal and take the exposure or awkwardness that came with that,” she says. The reader is tempted to confuse the character with the author, as the novel is told entirely from Catherine’s perspective. To do so would be a mistake — one of McKeon’s great gifts is her ability to explore the mental landscape of her characters. While the novel is written in the third person, the reader is given close access to Catherine’s thoughts, feelings and motivations. “It’s a four hundred page novel told from Catherine’s point of view. There are some readers who think, ‘Why should I be expected to go everywhere with that little rip?’” McKeon laughs. “She starts in this self-doubting, really anxious place at the start of the novel and latches onto James. When things fall out of her control, the anxiety and paranoia escalate. One thing I was more consciously interested in exploring with Catherine was narcissism. She is a narcissist. She wants to take more than she is willing to give.” Catherine may be a narcissist, but James is suffering from spiralling depression. Catherine is his only source of comfort, but she is not equal to the task. “She’s not mature enough to be there for him in the way that’s necessary. Not because she’s

a shitty person, but she’s young and it’s a huge emotional burden. For all his charisma, he is deeply depressed and she’s the only one who knows that. It’s too much.” James’ depression is partly due to the cultural milieu. Homosexuality has been decriminalised a few years earlier, but he has not yet come to terms with his sexual orientation, nor has he told his parents. “I remember being fourteen and listening to Liveline when they were debating whether or not to decriminalise ‘homosexual acts’ which was the exact wording. My closest friend was fourteen and gay in Leitrim listening to that on the radio. So, so damaging. But I think teenagers of this generation went through something similar listening to the debates. Thankfully we had the Yes vote and the outpouring of joy. I hope that was healing, but I think organisations like BeLonGTo will have their hands full with teenagers who were traumatised.” Catherine, however, has no compunction about outing him to her friends. “I think having a gay friend makes her feel so much more worldly. It’s a ticket to a different version of herself or a shortcut to a sophisticated, much more worldly version of herself. Because he goes away she doesn’t have to deal with his growing depression — he’s just her James that writes her letters. He’s her accessory.” “She becomes obsessed with him, to a very large extent because he is gay. It’s not that she has fallen madly in love for who he is, she is fixated. A large amount of what’s driving her is this inherited, unthinking homophobia. She wants to own him and control him. Is that passion? She is driven by something a lot less sweet and lovely than a crush. A lot of what she was doing felt so unpleasant and dark to me at times, but it also felt very real. I was wondering if this novel was just a product of my twisted psychology.”

kathrin baumbach

G O

F E A T U R E

K I N G

O F

C O M E D Y RO G U I S H EN GL ISH COMED IA N JA C K W HI T E H A L L CHATS TO OL AF T YAR ANSE N AB O U T HI S LOV E OF IREL A N D , TH E D IFFICULT TR A N SITION FROM TE LE V ISIO N TO CI N E MA A N D GOIN G TO S CHOOL W ITH H OL LY WOOD ’ S FAVOURITE VAMPIRE ...

ack Whitehall is sitting in the cocktail bar of Dublin’s Conrad Hotel and is visibly delighted to be here.

“I really love Dublin,” he enthuses. “It’s one of my favourite cities.” His smile broadens as he speaks. “I love being here. I mean you spend your whole life, whenever you go to a city, telling people that it’s your favourite city and that the audiences are great — and quite often you’re lying — but with Dublin, it’s true. It’s a great place to play.” Usually he’s here on stand-up duties, but this afternoon the 27-year-old English comedian, TV presenter and actor is doing a day of press to promote his forthcoming film, The Bad Education Movie. A big screen adaptation of the hit BBC TV comedy series, the £3m budget film sees Whitehall — who, even with the beard, somehow looks remarkably baby-faced — reprise his role as Alfie Wickers, arguably the worst teacher ever to (dis)grace the British educational system. Starring alongside Harry Enfield, Jeremy Irvine, Joanna Scanlan and Iain Glen, it’s Whitehall’s first-ever big-screen role, and he’s understandably nervous about how it will be received. “Yeah, it’s terrifying,” he confesses. “It really is terrifying because it’s just an unknown. I’ve never done it before and the stakes seem higher. It’s also one of the most exciting things I’ve ever done and the thing I’m most proud of. I’m really proud of where we got to with it. It would be weird not to be really anxious about it.”

Was there much difference filming for the big rather than the small screen? “Yeah, you get a bit more time and you get a lot more money, but it feels like there’s even more pressure. But it’s exciting – every moment of it is exciting. We’ve scaled it all up. The most important thing was to make it feel like it wasn’t just an extended episode of the TV show, to make it feel like a real film. So we were very ambitious in what we wrote. “I love action films, that’s what I grew up watching, and so we borrow quite heavily from the action-film genre. There are lots of nods to Die Hard and Predator – all the films I liked as a teenager. We were pretty ambitious in our scope, which makes it quite hard to film.” He co-wrote the screenplay with writing partner Freddy Syborn. Although, given that Whitehall is famously dyslexic, Syborn presumably did all the typing. “Yeah, exactly!” he laughs. “I sort of walk around the room dictating stuff, and he writes it. He’s incredible, smart and brilliant, and I, grammatically… well I write terribly. So we have quite a good dynamic together as writing partners, and he’s one of my oldest mates. I was at school with him when I was 13 and we’ve written together since then.” Another former schoolmate is actor Robert Pattinson. In his stand-up routines, Whitehall often plays up his envy of the Twilight star. Even so, he was almost tempted to offer him a role in The Bad Education Movie. “There’s a part in it he would have been perfect for, but I felt a bit bad sending a script to him after all the things I’ve said – even though they’d all been in jest. We have in the script, my scourge from school, Atticus Hoye,

who’s a figure I’ve talked a lot about in the series – he plays the boy who bullies me in school and we finally get to see him in the movie. He’s played by Jeremy Irvine from War Horse. Jeremy’s really funny, he’s very good.” What was Whitehall like in school? “I think there are lots of aspects of all the kids in Bad Education in me, really,” he muses. “I was always mucking around and giving teachers backchat like Mitchell. Then there was the awkwardness of Joe and then definitely the flamboyant stuff that Stephen maybe represents in terms of my dramatic leanings. I never really fit in — I didn’t know what I wanted or what I was good at. It wasn’t until near the end of school when I found out it was definitely comedy, and that writing was my passion, and I became my own person.” The Bad Education Movie sees the hapless Alfie Wickers taking his pupils on a school trip to Cornwall to celebrate the completion of their GCSEs. Needless to say, nothing goes according to plan. With the locals largely portrayed as rural eccentrics, does he think the film is likely to cause offence on the Cornish peninsula? “I don’t know. I think they’re good at laughing at themselves and they sort of embrace and celebrate their eccentricities. The character of Iain Glen, the supervillian in the film, is smart and Cornish and really villainous. I think the major Cornish character in the film is a good portrayal of a Cornish man. I think they’ll be happy. Everyone over here says it would be the equivalent of a school trip to the west of Ireland.” He laughs again as an idea occurs. “Maybe in Bad Education 2 they could go to Connemara.”

G O B U S I N E S S

Jet

SETTERS A freshly styled, new look is just one of the exciting developments at CityJet, as the Irish airline aims to hit unprecedented heights in the autumn and winter of 2015…

hile CityJet was founded some 22 years ago, it’s fair to say that the airline’s most fascinating chapter has only just begun. In September, the airline unveiled its stylish new branding, signalling a fresh start for the Irish business, as it looks towards a hugely exciting and successful future. “We wanted a new look and feel,” explains Martina McDermott, Head of Marketing with the firm. “Both internally and externally, there was a feeling that we needed something invigorating and so that is what we have delivered.” There are different elements to the airline’s stylish new branding. For a start, the livery of the CityJet planes have been overhauled. In addition, a new look has been created for their pilots and cabin crew. These changes are happening at a perfect time. The airline, which has its headquarters in Swords, Co. Dublin, and employs over 300 staff there, has long been established as a major player in business travel, but the plan now is to extend its market considerably, by attracting more leisure passengers. Martina is confident that the airline’s hub of London City Airport will capture the imagination of the public. “We found that people in Ireland – and even in the UK – simply haven’t been aware of London City Airport,” she explains. “That means that people don’t appreciate the benefits and convenience on offer. How could you, if you’ve never landed there or seen the place? But once you’ve flown in there, there’s a good chance you’re going to stick with it because it really is incredibly convenient.” The airport’s proximity to the London business district has long been appreciated by those heading over to London on business, but now passengers with a little more fun in mind are being targeted. After all, a quick hop onto the Docklands Light Railway will have you skipping down Oxford Street mere minutes after landing. The CityJet service to London City Airport isn’t convenient just for the access it gives you to the centre of the English capital; the same applies when you use it as a gateway to international travel routes. “You can find yourself on a connecting flight to our other

European destinations within half an hour,” Martina points out. “You can’t do that very easily in most airports, but because of its people-friendly scale, London City Airport is perfect for it.” That the people will be flying CityJet this winter is certain, with flights from Cork to London being scheduled for the first time. Beginning on October 1, the airline will be running a service from Cork to London City Airport, with 18 flights every week, including three every weekday. While plenty of people from the southern half of the country will be chomping at the bit to head across the Irish Sea, City Jet is also focused on those travelling the opposite direction. “We work very closely with Tourism Ireland in the UK,” Martina explains. “We particularly look towards bringing people over for golf breaks, and other packages like that.” It’s yet another example of the strides this rising, independent, European regional airline is making; the business was owned by Air France up until last year, but CityJet is now proudly pursuing its own, thoroughly independent, agenda once again. Founder Pat Byrne has returned as Executive Chairman, and he and his team are making brilliant progress by providing the very best service that can be offered to today’s flying public. While there are changes afoot, Martina is keen to emphasise that those things which have been a hallmark of quality at CityJet will remain in place. Unlike many competitors, there are no hidden charges: from a 23kg luggage allowance to complimentary snacks and drinks served on board, the price you see really is what you pay. And, prospective customers will be happy to know, CityJet’s prices remain as attractive as ever. “If you’re not flying at peak business times – for example, if you’re happy to get on a plane at 11am – then you will get to the heart of London with us, at a very, very reasonable price,” Martina reveals. With plans to branch out to new destinations in the near future – as well as renewing their fleet of aircraft – the future is certainly looking bright. Ireland’s impact on the global aviation industry has always been impressive. CityJet are poised to not only continue that pattern, but to raise it to whole new levels.

G O E A T

The Moriarty

TRIBUNAL Ann Sexton does lunch with Sinéad Moriarty whose newly published book, The Way We Were, is a real page-turner. On the menu are midlife crises, war torn African countries, kidnapping and delicious grilled peaches...

ife is full of decisions. Some of these are more life changing than others, but even the little ones can be tough, as you will know if you’ve ever been confronted with the menu at Peploe’s Wine Bar. Each dish sounds as mouthwatering as the last, making choosing just one starter and main course no easy task.

w o r d s ph o tos

a n n e

kat h r i n

s e xt on

b aumba c h

“It all looks delicious,” agrees Sinéad Moriarty. “I want everything on the menu!” We eventually decide on starters — the salad of fresh peach and grilled chicken for Sinéad; the calamari salad with chorizo for me. Her eleventh book, The Way We Were, involves a somewhat more serious decision — whether or not to stay in a marriage. The book, says Sinéad, was inspired by the journalist John McCarthy who was kidnapped and held hostage in the Lebanon in the late 1980s. “John’s girlfriend campaigned relentlessly to have him released and to keep him in the public consciousness. He’s very handsome, she’s very pretty and four-and-a-half, five years later when he does get back everyone thinks it’s going to be a beautiful story but it didn’t work out. They broke up and he married somebody else. “For years I was wondering how I could make this into a book,” she continues. “It’s about a couple who are married. Ben has just turned forty-five and he’s a surgeon who is having a midlife crisis — he’s restless and a bit bored. An opportunity comes up for him to go to Eritrea to train surgeons. It’s very dangerous and his wife Alice doesn’t want him to go, but he goes anyway. He disappears and is presumed dead. In the second half of the book, it’s two years later, she has grieved and kept the kids going and just as she is about to get engaged to someone else, the phone rings — her husband has escaped and he is coming back. They have both changed to survive. So can the memories of your previous life sustain you going forward if you’ve changed that much? You don’t find out until the last chapter who she choses.” Each book involves significant research, Sinéad explains. “I like to do the research first so I have a handle

on it and a confidence going into the book. Otherwise there are big holes in the story. For The Way We Were, I did a lot of research into surgery in field hospitals and I learnt a lot about Eritrea. People were asking if I was going to go there to research, but you can’t go there — it’s too dangerous. I met someone who went to Eritrea and he was amazingly helpful, but he was quite nervous even talking about it. It’s a highly volatile country. I find research very interesting. The downside is you can keep going and going and you have to know when to stop and just write the book.” When the food arrives we admire each others choices as we tuck in with gusto. “This is a such a treat, it is so nice to eat out,” Sinéad enthuses. “I would never have thought of grilling fresh peach.” Does she enjoy cooking? “I used to love cooking. I’d put music on and I’d have loads of time but now I cook every day and I got fed up with it. I need to do a cookery course to reignite my interest.” What Sinéad enjoys most is writing, although she would probably disagree with the cliché, “choose a job you love and you will never have to work a day in your life” as she works every day just like anyone else. “I’m not very good when I’m not writing — I’m kinda grumpy!” she laughs. “I’m calmer and just engaged. It’s my happy place. People sometimes laugh when I say I have to work and I suppose they don’t realise how hard writers work. Lots of people tend to think it’s just an hour or two a day. Well, we’re not digging mines, but a lot of work goes into a novel.” Despite having eleven published novels and a twelfth one on the way, the writing does not get easier, she explains. “It gets harder. You push yourself and you strive to get better — I certainly do. My first two books didn’t get published — they were complete disasters — and then with my third book I was thinking what I would write about. At the time I was trying to get pregnant and failing and seeing a fertility specialist and I thought, ‘Maybe I should write about this.’” The result was The Baby Trail, Sinéad’s first published book. “It was funny, nobody had done that before, I couldn’t find anything that poked fun, in a gentle way, about the whole situation. It’s a very bittersweet book and probably the one I get the most feedback about. So many people can relate to that — it’s universal because if you want a child and you can’t have one, it’s very hard. My timing

A MATTER OF TASTE Stuart Clark Brings You The Latest Foodie News

The Damage To start, Sinéad had the summer salad of fresh peach and grilled chicken, watercress and goat’s cheese; I had the calamari salad with quinoa, Barbecoa chorizo, grilled lemon and aioli. For her main course, Sinéad chose the miso grilled organic Irish salmon with coco pampol, sautéed greens and ginger dressing; I had the special of roast coquelet with duck fat chips, wild mushrooms and truffle sauce. Neither of us were able for dessert — which was a great pity as the chocolate tart with malt ice cream, maize tulle and chocolate cream sounded absolutely delicious. Peploe’s has an extensive wine menu of old world wines from France, Italy and Spain. The house wines are a very reasonable €26 and there are a number available by the glass. The lunch time menu is excellent value if you’re on a budget. Three courses will set you back just €29.50 or it’s €25.50 for two courses. Peploe’s dining room is an oasis of calm and even though the restaurant was busy, the service was impeccable. Peploe’s Wine Bistro, 16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 676 3144. peploes.com

(clockwise from top) Calamari salad with quinoa, Barbecoa chorizo, grilled lemon and aioli; summer salad of fresh peach and grilled chicken, watercress and goat’s cheese; miso grilled organic Irish salmon with coco pampol, sautéed greens and ginger dressing

was very lucky. People were just beginning to talk about it but it had been a complete taboo before that. I have had men say to me, ‘I read your book and now I get it. I didn’t realise how hard it was.’ I’m not sitting here saying I can change anyone’s life, but if a book helps someone through a moment of loneliness I think that’s great.” The sign of a good meal is silence — but silence is definitely not the sign of an interview that’s going well. But when our mains of miso grilled organic salmon and roast coquelet arrive, we have to take a moment to appreciate the food. “This is delicious!” says Sinéad. “We’re so lucky in Dublin that there are many great places to eat. It used to be awful in Ireland for restaurants but things have certainly changed.” As well as writing, Sinéad’s other big love is reading. “Books are great escapism. I love reading and I also consider it part of my job. My family are big readers and I am trying to teach my kids to love it because I want them to be readers. I’m in a book club as well. I read anything and everything but when I’m writing it’s very busy in my head so I read a lot of non-fiction. In between or when I am doing publicity I read a lot of fiction then.” Has she ever read a novel and wished she’d written it instead? “All the time!” she laughs. “Just about every second book I read!”

Proving Their Metal

Tipp Top

This year’s Irish Craft Beer & Cider Festival in the RDS was a resounding success with 14,000 hop aficionados getting to sample the wares of the 40-plus breweries in attendance. Obviously it would have been imprudent to try all of the beers debuting at the festival, but Go Eat did manage to get its laughing gear round the RadikAle’s 6.6% Curious Brew collaboration with Blackwater Gin; Manor Brewing’s 5.1% Mont Lager; O’Hara’s remarkable Rhubarb & Strawberry Curim; Black Donkey’s 4.6% Scythe Belgian Pale Ale; the White Gypsy 5.6% Cream Ale; Mountain Man’s 4.6% Vincent Van Coff; Brown Paper Bag Project’s 6.4% Aul Bruin Bagger Cherry Sour; Hope Brewing’s 7.9% Bailey’s Folly Small-Batch Trippel; Galway Hooker’s 6.5% ABV Sixty Knots IPA; West Kerry Brewery’s 5% Blue Rose Pale Ale, and Dungarvan Brewing Company’s 6.5% Seaweed Saison, which all comprehensively hit the spot. Our Beer of the Festival goes though to the 5% Heatsink Smoked Chili Porter from Metalman, the Waterford brewery that’s continuously upping its game. Available in keg, cask and can, it really is a world class tipple. Check out their full range and bag yourself some quality merchandise at metalmanbrewing. com

There was much celebrating down Clonmel way this month when James Whelan Butchers’s Beef Dripping won the Supreme Championship Trophy at the prestigious Great Taste Awards, AKA the foodie Oscars. Described as “an absolute showstopper with tremendous, deep beefy flavours”, the dripping is perfect for frying steaks, roasting potatoes, adding character to sauces and casseroles and spreading onto crusty bread like lardo. It’s available from their Tipp HQ, Avoca Food outlets and jameswhelanbutchers.com for a very reasonable €3.99.

Into The Wild Rachel Allen comes up trumps again with Coast: Recipes From Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, which includes Spaghetti with Clams, Gin & Wild Garlic and StoutBraised Beef Cheeks with Cavolo Nero among its must-tries. The accompanying RTÉ series finds Rachel travelling from West Cork to Donegal, with regular pit-stops to visit her favourite restaurants, markets, food producers and craft breweries.

(above clockwise from top) A selection of the beers available from Metalman, Whelan's Butchers and the new book from Rachel Allen.

GO DESTINATION:

Dublin-Blackrock

Beatlemania in Blackrock Veteran broadcaster Ronan Collins has spent more than half his life on the airwaves, but his favourite train memory comes long before the on-air sign lit up.

“Christy Moore once told me, ‘Your memory is so good, you can remember things that didn’t even happen!’"

aving celebrated 30 years on RTÉ Radio 1 during the summer, one expects that Ronan Collins has collected no small amount of stories from his time behind the mic. When it comes to choosing his favourite train journey, however, he turns the clock back to a time long before he hit the airwaves.

“It was all the way back in the summer of 1964,” he recalls. “It was a short train journey, though it seemed long to us at the time, from Amiens Street Station – now Connolly Station – to Blackrock. I wasn’t even 12 years old and we were headed out to the baths; myself, Terry O’Neill – who later became the first manager Thin Lizzy ever had – and Louis Lavelle.” There’s a very specific reason why

this particular adventure has stayed in Ronan’s mind; and, unsurprisingly for a man who’s been spinning discs for over three decades, it’s a musical connection that makes it so memorable. “We had just seen The Beatles’ movie, A Hard Day’s Night,” he explains. “A lot of the film revolves around a train journey. Well, we had a harmonica with us, and we could play their song ‘I Should Have Known Better’. We thought we were the bee’s knees!” Though he admits to not recalling just how their performance went down. “I don’t remember what the other passengers thought, if I’m honest,” he laughs. “It wasn’t like we were being disruptive; we were just a few young fellas off for a swim. Of course, as it always is in your head, it was a beautiful day; I can’t vouch for that, because as a kid you barely notice the weather.” Otherwise, the passing of time has done nothing to fog the memory; Ronan can recall the trip as though it happened yesterday. “It was in the days where the windows slid up and down; you could open them and stick your head out into the wind. It stopped at Tara Street and Westland Row, Sandymount and a few others, but really it felt like time had stopped.” It’s remarkable that a journey from more than 50 years ago is still so clear in Ronan’s mind. “I’ve been inflicted with an amazing memory,” he chuckles. “Christy Moore once told me, ‘Your memory is so good, you can remember things that didn’t even happen!’ It’s extraordinary how vivid the recollection of that day is, though. Every time I hear that song, I’m reminded of that trip. I will never forget it; no journey could compare to that.” And, indeed, it turns out Ronan and his friends didn’t merely emulate The Beatles; they one-upped them. “Afterwards, I read that the band filmed the movie on a train that went back and forth between Marlybone and Minehead,” he smiles. “But the scene where they filmed 'I Should Have Known Better' was in a railway carriage, and they had people outside, rocking it back and forth, so that it looked like it was moving. Our train was moving; we did it for real!” Listen to The Ronan Collins Show, 12 noon-1pm weekdays on RTÉ Radio 1

G O P L A C E S

Top of the

TOWNS For those considering an out of season holiday in Ireland â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Go Rail checks in on what sets the 15 towns nominated for the FĂĄilte Ireland 2015 Tourism Towns Awards apart from the rest.

G O P L A C E S

he ‘grand stretch’ in the evenings might be on the wane, but with another Indian summer expected it might be time to think about a late break. In the past few years more and more people have chosen to holiday at home. The choices are abundant: from seaside breaks to relaxing countryside getaways and heritage trails – our little island has it all. As a handy guide, Go Rail is looking to Fáilte Ireland’s recently published shortlist of the 15 towns and villages nominated for the 2015 Tourism Towns Awards. This list celebrates the destinations that go that extra mile to welcome visitors, not just “towns that do well out of tourism but rather those who do tourism well”. So before the winners are announced in November, we take a look at all 15 towns that should certainly be high on the list for post-summer getaway destination.

LISMORE, CO WATERFORD Lismore is a small but historic town at the foot of the Knockmealdown Mountains as they slope gracefully towards Waterford. The town stands in the natural valley of the River Blackwater, overlooked by the towering Lismore Castle, built in 1185. Tracing its origins back to the arrival of St Carthage in 636AD, Lismore was once a university town attended by scholars from all over Europe. For such a small town, with a population of less that 1,500, Lismore has a wealth of heritage and natural attractions. From its famous castle and gardens and the historic St Carthage’s Cathedral and Parish church (one of the finest examples of LombardoRomanesque church architecture in Ireland), to the architectural oddities of The Ballysaggartmore Towers and the Dromona Hindu Bridge – it is a cosy town with lots to offer. For more visit lismoreheritagetown.ie.

Spring at Kilkenny Castle by Mary Hickey

Must Do: Stop for lunch in Madden’s Summerhill Café, the former site of Maddens Pub and a favoured watering hole of screen legend Fred Astaire. The Hollywood hoofer often visited Lismore to call in on his sister Adele and her husband, Lord Charles Cavendish, who resided at the nearby castle.

KILLARNEY, CO KERRY In 2015 TripAdvisor crowned scenic Killarney Ireland’s most popular destination. This is hardly news as the Kerry town has over 250 years of experience in welcoming visitors keen to explore its many heritage attractions, including the expansive National Park, MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (home to Ireland’s tallest mountain, Carrauntoohil) and the picturesque Killarney Lakes. It is estimated that over 1,000,000 people visit Killarney each year, thanks in part to the sheer wealth of attractions on offer in the charming town and surrounding areas. The Killarney National Park is home to one of Ireland’s leading stately homes, elegant Muckross House and its world-renowned gardens. History buffs will be delighted by a visit to the 15th Century Ross Castle or to the 640AD Abbey on Inisfallen Island,

where it is said High King of Ireland Brian Boru received his education. Must Do: Rent a bike and set out for a day on one of the many cycling trails available in Killarney National Park, a great way to see sights like Muckross Abbey, The Old Copper Mines and the Gap Of Dunloe. For a great night out, head to the INEC Killarney and catch a show. Irish favourites Bell X1 and Kodaline are due before Christmas.

CLONAKILTY, CO CORK The busy market town has long been a gem of West Cork. Colourful hand-painted façades and a laid-back atmosphere offer visitors a taste of a simpler Ireland, while world-class local artisan produce, restaurants and lively nightlife earned it a European Destination of Excellence award in 2007. Clonakilty has a community spirit, which has seen the town gain awards for its environmental efforts. In 2003, it became Ireland’s first Fair Trade town. Clonakilty’s proximity to Clonakilty Bay and Inchydoney beach ensure there are abundant water activities during summer. The town is also famous as the childhood home of Irish revolutionary leader Michael Collins. The Michael Collins Centre in Clonakilty organises tours that take visitors to the important West Cork sites associated with the famous patriot. Must Do: Visit DeBarra’s for one of the best trad sessions in Ireland. This legendary venue was a regular haunt of Noel Redding from the Jimi Hendrix Experience, who relocated to Clonakilty in the early ’70s. Also, try the town’s renowned eponymous black pudding, of which Blur’s Alex James raved, “I love Clonakilty Black Pudding! I had it for the first time a couple of years ago when I was in Dublin, and can eat my body weight in it.”

BELMULLET, CO MAYO It would be hard to find a finer example of small-town Ireland than Belmullet, the capital and cultural heart of the Mayo Gaeltacht. Situated way out on the Wild Atlantic Way, two beautiful bays, Blacksod Bay and Broadhaven Bay, flank the coastal town, while the main street is filled with family-run shops and businesses. The west-facing beaches and Atlantic swells have gained Belmullet a reputation as one of the nation’s top surfing destinations and there are plenty of options when it comes to watersports in the area. The surrounding waters are teeming with 29 varieties of fish and the Inishkea Islands, which lie just off the coast, are home to the largest flock of Barnacle Geese in Ireland and rich in history and mythology. Must Do: Pay a visit to hÁras Inis Gluaire, Ireland’s only bilingual arts centre. The centre is named after an island off the coast of Belmullet where the fabled Children of Lir were banished for 300 years to live out their lives as swans. Since opening, the venue has hosted such luminaries as Damien Dempsey, Mick Flannery, Eleanor McEvoy and Sharon Shannon.

G O P L A C E S ARDMORE, CO WATERFORD You’ll find the picturesque little fishing village of Ardmore in Co Waterford perched on a cliff overlooking one of the finest beaches in the sunny southeast. The town is renowned for its perfectly preserved 12th-century round tower, the last one of its kind built in Ireland, and for being the oldest Christian Settlement in the nation. Steeped in rich history and heritage attractions, Ardmore is also home to the five-star hotel and Michelin-starred restaurant, The Cliff House Hotel; a thoroughly modern building built into the cliffs overlooking the bay. The bay itself is a horseshoe shape that makes it feel enclosed and secluded; perfect for water activities such as sailing, kayaking and fishing. Must See: Head out along the Ardmore Cliff Walk, a favourite of singer Gemma Hayes who says, “There’s something incredibly peaceful about it. I’m very happy standing there.” The walk guarantees an afternoon of staggering coastal views that will lead you to such

sights as the Samson shipwreck, a lookout post used for observation during WWII and finally to the famous Round Tower.

KILKENNY

TRALEE, CO KERRY

Picturesque Kilkenny Castle

Known the world over as home to one of Ireland’s most idiosyncratic festivals, The Rose of Tralee (held annually since 1959) Tralee is the county town of Kerry and is situated on the neck of the Dingle Peninsula. It is a modern, bustling town with an 800-year history set in a region of spectacular beauty – a perfect place from which to explore the rest of The Kingdom of Kerry and the Wild Atlantic Way. The town is home to the awardwinning Kerry County Museum and Medieval Experience, an immersive look back at the history of Ireland over 7,000 years. Outside of the huge festivities of the Rose of Tralee, the town has many other attractions like the Tralee Bay Wetlands activity and nature centre, the Tir na nOg Easter festival, the Feile na mBlath garden festival and the Christy Hennessy Music Festival. Must Do: Visit Siamsa Tíre, The National Folk Theatre of Ireland. Here,

Fun on the River Nore

MOUNTSHANNON

In the heart of the sunny southeast, Kilkenny is famous for its stunning Norman castle and robust hurling team. The medieval city in the Nore Valley won Fáilte Ireland’s Top Tourism Town Award in 2013 and has long been considered one of Ireland’s most beautiful and popular tourist destinations. A walk down Kilkenny’s celebrated Medieval Mile will take you from Kilkenny Castle to the Sixth Century St Canice’s Cathedral and Round Tower, passing the National Craft Gallery, Rothe House and Garden, The Bishop’s Palace and the towering St Mary’s Cathedral. During the

Mountshannon from above

Mountshannon lies on the western shore of the freshwater Lough Derg with a backdrop of the low Sliabh Aughty Mountains. The village, which is set on a hill overlooking the harbour, the lake and its islands, is surrounded by many heritage attractions including ring-forts, famine graves, a ring fort known as ‘The Dolmen’ and, most famously, Iniscearltra, or Holy Island, a monastic settlement dating back to 520AD that features a round tower, the ruins of several churches, four high crosses and a holy well. The area around Mountshannon

is heavily-wooded and, combined with the Sliabh Aughty Mountains, there are many attractive hiking and cycling options available, while Lough Derg provides opportunities for fishing, sailing and swimming. Must Do: Holy Island was recently purchased by the council, which now provides an information point and encourages bird viewing in the area. Nearby Bushy Island is home to a nesting pair of rare White-tailed sea eagles.

summer months the town really comes to life with some of the country’s best-loved festivals such as Kilkenny Arts Festival, The Sky Cats Laugh Comedy Festival and The Kilkenny Roots Festival. Must Do: Get yourself along for a pint of the number one Irish ale, Smithwick’s at The Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny. The Victorian Brewing building has been transformed into a stateof-the-art visitor centre where you can learn all about the craft of brewing, the history of the ale and finally taste a perfect pint of the ruby red. For more go to visitkilkenny.ie.

G O P L A C E S

ADARE, CO LIMERICK

Must do: The Adare Manor Golf Club, set

SNEEM, CO KERRY Life moves at a different pace in the colourful little village of Sneem, “the knot” in the ring of Kerry. Situated at the estuary of the river Sneem, which flows towards the sea at nearby Kenmare Bay, and framed by the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range, Sneem has long been associated with a more remote and relaxed way of life. The village is home to only 200 residents but despite its size and relative remoteness, Sneem is well versed in making visitors feel welcome. There are six traditional pubs and an abundance of eateries in which to enjoy fresh seafood caught just off the bay or the famous Sneem black pudding. The beautiful natural surroundings mean there are many ways to work off a heavy lunch available, such as kayaking, hill-walking and cycling routes.

MOUNTSHANNON - LIVE THE LIFE Mountshannon, on the shores of Lough Derg in County Clare - a must see location. Experience the wonder of the white tailed sea eagle, visit intriguing Holy Island (Inis Cealtra) and enjoy fishing, swimming, sailing and water sports in this magical place.

Shortlisted for the 2015 Failte Ireland Tourism Towns Awards

Must Do: Hopefully your visit will coincide with the Sneem International Storytelling & Folklore Festival

Dí

Claiming for itself the titles of the ‘Village of Welcomes’ and ‘Ireland’s Prettiest Village’ you’d think Adare might be in danger of over-egging the pudding. But any tourists who have had the fortune to visit this designated heritage town know that they more than live up to their claims. The streets are still lined with the original thatched cottages, built in the 1820s by Lord Dunraven, and the main street is peppered with beautiful stone buildings, medieval monasteries and historic ruins. From the Adare Heritage Centre you will be able to access a tour of notable attractions like the 13th Century Desmond Castle, St Nicholas Old Graveyard, the Franciscan Friary and the Trinitarian Priory.

amongst the historic ruins of the Franciscan Abbey and Adare Castle, will delight golf fans. In recent years the club has hosted the Irish Seniors Open, The Irish PGA Championship and the Ladies World Cup of Golf.

li s

Kilkenny Castle Smithwick’s Experience Kilkenny Rothe House & Garden Nicholas Mosse Pottery Castlecomer Discovery Park f

fb.com/KilkennyTourism @LoveKilkenny

c d'á ea r nOidhr

Clare County Council

Must See and Do

VisitKilkenny.ie

six nights a week, you’ll have a choice of four different superb shows. Upcoming highlights include Moondance - Ré-Damhsa: The Van Morrison Project, an Irish language celebration of Van the Man’s most famous songs featuring Liam O’Maonlai, and The New Triangle featuring John Sheahan of the Dubliners, Damien Rice and Declan O’Rourke.

Comhairle Contae an Chláir

| clare.ie

G O P L A C E S

Sneem, Co Kerry

(November 6–8), where storytellers from all over the globe gather to celebrate the oral tradition. Highlights include, Storytelling in the Barn, the Storytelling Lomanagh Loop Walk and a Storytelling Pub Trail of the village's many public houses.

CARRICK-ONSHANNON, CO LEITRIM Located on the banks of the mighty Shannon, Carrick-onShannon is one of the fastest growing inland resorts in Ireland. A favourite getaway for the nation's stag and hen parties, don’t let that put you off visiting as there is much more to the county town of Leitrim, including a wealth of top class restaurants, accommodation, nightlife and visitor attractions. This watersports paradise provides access to 41 lakes in a 10-mile radius, meaning there is an abundance of activities like whitewater rafting, kayaking, and sailing on the River Shannon. The town has many heritage attractions that are accessible from St George’s Heritage Centre, like the Famine Garden of Remembrance and the tiny Costello Chapel, the smallest chapel in Europe and second smallest in the world. Must Do: Pay a visit to The Dock, a vibrant arts centre located in a renovated 19th century courthouse where you will find exhibitions of local art, theatre, music and a coffee shop and theatre bar. Follow this up with a fine selection of craft beer and an even finer selection of locally sourced seafood in the critically adored The Oarsman, on Bridge Street.

KENMARE, CO KERRY The tranquil town of Kenmare could not be more perfectly placed for tourists exploring the south west of Ireland. Located on the Ring of Kerry, to the west stretches Kenmare Bay, to the south the unspoiled scenic Ring of Beara and to the north the natural expanses of the Killarney National Park. With such an abundance of natural beauty on its doorstep, Kenmare is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. As Kerry’s first Heritage Town the unique charm of Kenmare has remained happily unchanged. With its world-class accommodation, bustling farmers market and gourmet restaurants serving food fresh from the Wild Atlantic Way, Kenmare has become something of a foodie retreat in the southwest. Must Do: Take Best Of Ireland cover star Vogue William’s recommendation and visit Packie’s Restaurant in Kenmare, “I went to Kenmare for New Year’s Eve and that is just incredible. There’s a restaurant there called Packie’s, which is sooo delicious. It’s the best seafood I’ve ever had.”

PORTMAGEE, CO KERRY In 2012 the beautiful fishing port of Portmagee was the first town to be awarded the Fáilte Ireland National Tourism Award. The dock is lined with colourfully painted houses framed by rolling hills and overlooks the south side of Valentia Island. The spectacular scenery is complimented by a homely, welcoming atmosphere

46 34

and some hearty, locally-sourced seafood available at the Moorings Restaurant and the Fishermen’s Bar. Portmagee is perhaps most well known as the departure point for visits to Skellig Michael. This famous UNESCO World Heritage Site was home to a settlement of early Christian monks from the 6th to 13th century that lived amongst the elements in stone ‘beehive’ cells. The island has recently been in the news as the site of filming for the upcoming Hollywood blockbuster Star Wars Episode VII. Must Do: On Valentia Island there is the trail of more than 150 four-legged dinosaur footprints, estimated at 70 million years old, the first such discovery in Europe. A trackway has recently been installed so visitors can follow in the footsteps of these ancient creatures.

COBH, CO CORK Steeped in maritime history, the seaside town of Cobh resides on a steep hill surrounding the world’s second largest natural harbour on Great Island in Cork Harbour. A mere 20 minutes from Cork City, Cobh offers small town charm with great access to big city amenities. Historically Cobh was the departure point for 2.5 million of the six million Irish who emigrated to North America between 1848 and 1950. The town stakes its place in maritime lore as the final port of call of the Titanic and the burial place of those who died when a German U-Boat sank the RMS Lusitania off the Old Head of Kinsale. Today Cobh is a vibrant town, brimful of heritage attractions, outdoor activities

and lively festivals. Must Do: Visit the Sirius Arts Centre, home to one of the country’s most active and engaging multi-disciplinary arts organisations. In a beautiful Italiante building, that was once home to the oldest yacht club in the world, you’ll find a busy programme of exhibitions, music performances, community arts programmes and workshops.

YOUGHAL, CO CORK Youghal is one of Cork’s busiest and most popular seaside resorts. Visitors have been flocking to the town’s three stunning sandy beaches for hundreds of years. The walled seaport town is one of the best-preserved examples of 13th century town planning in Europe and as such has a huge variety of intriguing heritage attractions. Some examples of which are the Water Arch Gate, The Clock Gate, the St Benedictine Priory and the site of the original Exchange – a theatre for touring performers where it is said William Shakespeare once visited. Youghal famously featured on the silver-screen in the 1956 adaptation of Herman Melville’s Moby Dick, directed by acclaimed filmmaker John Huston and starring Hollywood legend Gregory Peck. Must Do: A popular and picture-perfect holiday destination, the pick of the bunch on Youghal Main Street is Ahern’s bar, restaurant and hotel. The family run traditional pub serves up some of the best seafood in the country. You’ll enjoy a warm welcome.

G O H E A LT H Oranges: Packed with Vitman C

Winter

IS COMING The evenings, you’ll have noticed, are getting shorter — which means back to school, getting ready for trick or treating, frantic Christmas shopping and enjoying the holidays with loved ones. But winter also heralds the arrival of flu season, and the time of year when you’re most likely to get sick. Roe McDermott shares some simple tips to help you keep healthy and happy during the winter months so, no matter what the weather, all your days may be merry and bright!

G O H E A LT H

Get on your bike and ride: cycling is a great way to stay fit and healthy

e all know that winter means flu season, but there are some easy steps to take to avoid spending the next few months wracked with colds and viruses. First of all, know that while it’s important to stay warm, central heating can have devastating effects on your immune system. Central heating lowers your body’s natural defences and also dries out your nose and throat, with the dry air leaving you susceptible to sore throats, chest infections and asthma. Secondly, know that getting a good night’s sleep isn’t just a luxury — it’s a necessity to say healthy! Inadequate sleep and fatigue will leave you open to infections, and sleep deprivation also affects your mood and stress levels, leaving your body less equipped to fight off viruses. Also ensure you drink plenty of water, as being dehydrated makes your body less able to cope against invading bacteria. If you’ve already caught a cold, plenty of water and hot tea will help you flush out the infection quicker. Also ensure that your diet is rich in cold–fighting vitamins and minerals. We all know that Vitamin C is good for strengthening your immune system, but zinc is also essential for combating colds and flu. Good sources of zinc include meat, eggs, fish and tofu. Garlic is also a must for those who often have chest complaints — though be sure to follow up your garlic–laden treats with some nice mints. Winter is no excuse for bad breath. During the winter months, it can be easy to slip into eating heavy, comforting foods instead of getting your fill of fruit and vegetables, which are so important in keeping your immune system on the up and up during the flu season. But it’s so easy to inject a dose

of healthy foods into your winter diet, from topping off some warm breakfast porridge with delicious fresh fruit and berries, to making some irresistible smoothies so you can eat healthily on the go. One company making it handy to get your five–a–day is Iswari Organic and Raw Superfoods. Iswari is proud to present four great-tasting tropical flavours as part of its Buddha’s Awakening breakfast range — acai, banana and strawberry, mango and baobab, and pineapple and wheatgrass. Each nutrient-rich, raw superfood breakfast combines omega–packed milled chia and flax seeds, with ground almonds, buckwheat, fruit powders and superfoods. They are rich in protein, easily digested, gluten–free and 100% organic. Furthermore, each mix can be made in minutes, just by adding hot or cold water. Enlighten your morning with this tropical breakfast trio! For more info visit iswari.net or email info@iswari.net Exercising during the winter months can be difficult, even for the most committed fitness fans. The weather’s awful, the days are shorter, and what with all the Hallowe’en treats and Christmas dinners, dieting is nigh on impossible. But it’s important for both your physical and mental health to exercise regularly — and it’ll make those inevitable New Year’s resolutions to lose some weight and get fitter a bit easier to keep. When the weather’s good, go for brisk walks, jogs, runs or bike rides outside, but be sure you wear reflective gear so that you can be seen. Also ensure you’re wearing protective rain gear and cosy workout clothes — it’s easy to think that the exercise alone will keep your blood pumping, but if your body has to fight to keep warm, it’ll weaken your immune system and leave you vulnerable to colds and flus. When it’s too wintery or dark to exercise outside, fret not — there are a whole

G O H E A LT H

BUDDHA’S AWAKENING

.is

wa r i . n e t

15%

od w it h t h e c 9 l iswa rai

ISWARI

sunlight affecting your mood. Other side effects include lethargy, insomnia or hypersomnia (sleeping too much), weight gain and decreased libido. As with your physical health, it’s important to take note of any changes to your mental health, and consult with your doctor about the best treatment for you. Treatments can include light therapy, counselling and anti–depressants; but there are also some self– care remedies that can help less severe cases. Ensuring that you get out in the daylight and get some light exercise is hugely important, and eating healthy food will help boost your energy levels. Like any form of depression, it’s important not to alienate yourself from others and to voice your anxieties, so make sure you’re

host of great workout videos online that are absolutely free, and you can do them in the cosy comfort of your own home. For best results, alternate cardio with strength training, and put on music or even your favourite TV show in the background — it’ll make the time fly by. Self–care doesn’t just refer to your physical health; during the winter months it’s particularly important to look after your mental health. Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD), is a hugely common form of depression that is related to the change in the season, and according to the HSE, affects 7% of the population each year. This form of depression most commonly affects people during the winter months, with the shorter days and lack of

Inject some fresh fruit into your diet this winter

interacting with friends and family and are able to talk about your feelings. Your hair and beauty routine may not be top of the list when you think about keeping healthy during the winter, but the combination of harsh weather, a weakened immune system and constant snuffling into tissues can wreak havoc on your hair and skin. Also, during flu season it’s a good idea to keep a small bottle of hand sanitiser in your bag and to use it regularly — but these solutions can also leave your hands dry and cracked. Invest in a decent moisturiser and a good hand cream, and use at night as well as during the day to avoid chapped skin. Johnson and Johnson Baby Oil is no longer just for little ‘uns, and their range of moisturising oil infused with shea and cocoa butter, or aloe vera and vitamin E, is perfect for bringing some silky softness back to your skin. The baby oil with lavender is a particularly good night–time treat, as lavender is a soothing scent known to be a good sleeping aid. Meanwhile, bracing wind, indoor heating and having to blow–dry your hair after getting caught in a wintery shower can all frazzle your hair, so be sure to indulge yourself with a luxurious conditioning treatment every week to keep that ‘do’ looking sleek and soft. We love Neutrogena’s Triple Moisture range, which has Deep Recovery hair masks for damaged or over–processed hair (GHD and dye addicts, we’re looking at you). While the Triple Moisture shampoo and conditioner is a daily winner, use the Silk Touch Leave–in Cream to moisturise dry and split ends, and smooth those pesky flyaways. Your hair will be all sunshine and light, even if the weather’s not.

INSTANT RAW SUPERFOOD BREAKFAST RANGE

Gluten Free Certified Organic

JUST ADD WATER OR MILK ALTERNATIVE AND ENJOY OUR DELICIOUS SUPERFOOD BREAKFAST

IN UNDER 3 MINUTES www.iswari.net

*offer available online only (valid until 20th November ‘15)

F A S H I O N

Tailored for

Success WITH THE NEW FASHION SEASON FAST APPROACHING, ROE McDERMOTT HIGHLIGHTS SOME OF THE BEST HOMEGROWN DESIGNERS. YOU NOW HAVE AN OFFICIAL, ETHICAL AND PATRIOTIC REASON TO SHOP – WHAT MORE COULD YOU WANT? LYA SOLIS Moscow-born designer Lya Solis has lived in Dublin for over a decade, and has had a lifelong passion for fashion, describing becoming a designer as her childhood dream. Solis’ designs are marked by her talent for classic tailoring, intricate detailing and exquisite embellishment – a talent she attributes to her background in art, and interest in sculpting. Solis’ Autumn/Winter 2015 collection embodies both confidence and femininity. She has only used the finest fabrics such as cashmere, beaded lace, python and leather, all of which she has sourced from Italy,

France, Japan and USA – but her inspiration is homegrown, as it’s based on the Irish landscape and the changing colours of the Irish sky, from eerie pinks, to clouded blues and deeper midnight hues. The collection also has a striking contrast of textures. Leathers, wools, furs, handbeaded embellishments and sheer mesh all blend together to showcase the Lya Solis woman as strong, independent, fashion-focused and indestructible. To see Solis’ stunning designs, visit the Lya Solis Boutique in Powerscourt Townhouse, South William St, Dublin 4 or see lyasolis.com

F A S H I O N

GEMMA O’LEARY The Cork native has launched her label Inner Island. Her first collection is a series of refined, understated jewellery creations all handmade with traditional silversmithing skills. O’Leary studied fashion design at Cork College of Commerce, and attended a Fás course in metalworking before taking an internship with Mette O’Connor of AMOC jewellers in Greystones. Honing her skills by travelling in Canada, O’Leary realised her dream and launched Inner Island in April 2015. She loves the complexity of working with precious metals, and the juxtaposition between the work and resulting beauty. Each piece enriches day or night ensembles with fine metalworking skills, careful elegance and proof that true beauty lies in the details. The minimalist

design combines subtly complex shapes with natural materials to create timelessly stylish jewellery. O’Leary’s latest collection, Boketto, consists of sterling silver and is accented by black diamonds. Architectural in design, this collection consists of clean crisp lines that complement the spark of the black diamond. O’Leary’s latest collection is inspired by the works of Eileen Gray; an Irish furniture designer who was able to make heavy objects look like they were "floating". O’Leary’s striking pieces emulate Gray's signature aesthetic as the jewellery appears to be "floating" from the body. Her upcoming Spring/Summer 2016 collection is set to be just as striking and is inspired by stained glass windows. Inner Island jewellery can be bought in Om Diva on Drury Street, Dublin 2 or see innerisland.ie

A Selection of Gemma O'Leary's Jewellery

A piece from Jill De Búrca's 2015 Autumn/ Winter Collection

JILL DE BÚRCA A rising star on the Irish scene, Jill De Búrca has worked in the UK for the past five years as a sought after embroidery and embellishment designer. Her beautifully crafted designs have caught the eye of the fashion world. She has sold her work to a range of designers, including Calvin Klein, Diane Von Furstenberg, BCBG, JCrew and Thurley. An NCAD graduate who studied textiles, De Búrca’s pieces are crafted by hand with screenprinting. Despite the meticulous details, the fashions remain very wearable with a sports lux edge. Little wonder her designs are becoming fast favourites of the fashion world’s It Girls. Thankfully for all the Irish fashion lovers coveting De Búrca’s beautiful, elegant and unique pieces,

the designer has recently moved back to Dublin to launch her own high-end clothing label. The Design Centre in Powercourt Townhouse is offering an amazing opportunity for young Irish fashion talent by creating a platform to showcase their work Along with other incredible Irish designers such as Game Of Thrones’ costume creator Oliver Duncan Doherty, Jill De Búrca’s collection is now exclusively available at the Design Centre. For more information, contact jillburkedesign@ gmail.com

REVIEW albums. movies. books

illustration by david keane

LIBERTINES

pg 55

GOLISTEN.

GOWATCH.

GOREAD.

We bring you the definitive verdict on three of the big autumn releases. Pete Doherty's The Libertines return with a long-awaited new LP; Cavan's The Strypes continue their glorious ascent and Glen Hansard springs into action with a new solo collection.

From the thrilling sci-fi of Mad Max Fury Road to the retro dinosaurs of Jurassic World via the devastating dramatic insights of Still Alice and the utopianism high-jinks of Tomorrowland , our movie reviews promise something for everyone, no matter what your tastes.

Several of Ireland's big literary beasts are on the prowl with new books from John Banville, John Boyne and Stuart Neville falling beneath our microscope, along with a stunning return from American novelist Hanya Yanigihara

GOLISTEN. m u s i c a l l y

s p e a k i n g

Some returning Irish heroes and some no-nonsense rock ‘n’ roll you could be falling for this autumn.

With festival season done and dusted, some of the biggest acts around are stepping off the stage and concentrating on bringing their latest recorded works to the masses. As the evenings close in, it’s also the perfect time to stay indoors and get back to the serious business of falling in love with new albums. With that in mind, the Go Rail team has cherry-picked three of the biggest releases around right now... First up, it’s the long-awaited return of The Libertines. It’s hard to believe that it’s been over a decade since they released their selftitled second album. Although their reviews were generally good, neither Pete Doherty nor Carl Barat achieved much commercial success with Babyshambles and Dirty Pretty Things, respectively, so perhaps a Libertines reunion was inevitable. Eleven years on, the 12 songs that make up Anthems For Doomed Youth were laid down over five weeks in Karma Sounds Studios in Thailand. The recording seems to have been relatively trouble-free. While the two previous Libertines studio albums were helmed by Mick Jones of The Clash, Jake Gosling handles production duties on this outing. The choice of the One Direction/ Ed Sheeran producer seems a strange one, but it also proves to be inspired. Ostensibly an indie rock album, there’s more pop polish under these guitar-driven tracks than is apparent on the first few listens. While there’s nothing particularly musically

adventurous here, it’s all tightly delivered. At times, they come across like a hybrid of the Arctic Monkeys and a mellow-period The Fall. The real creative blood and guts lie in the confessional lyrics. Longstanding fans of The Libertines will undoubtedly adore this record and while it’s not quite a classic, it will also probably attract some new converts. Next up, The Strypes deliver Little Victories. The Cavan quartet’s follow-up to their 2013 debut comes with a weight of expectation that few outfits would be expected to carry in such a short space of time, but has already stormed to the top of the Irish Albums Chart. As a live force they’ve proved beyond doubt that they can pull it off better than most of their peers. The obvious question is, can they move beyond their take on that classic, mid-1960s rhythm and blues sound? The answer is an assured “yes”. Still barely out of their teens, the four lads broaden their musical horizons quite a bit here, without jettisoning what makes them great in the first place. The chugging opener ‘Get Into It’ still retains that raw Dr Feelgood urgency but with heavier, harder riffage and a more expansive soundscape. ‘I Need To Be Your Only’ blends an Abba (‘Waterloo’) opening riff with a Liam Gallagheresque vocal and a glam rock sheen. Meanwhile, manic drums and impressive fretwork mark ‘Eighty-Four’ out as Red Hot Chilli Peppers meets Arctic Monkeys. The prognosis?

Very good indeed. Finally, an Oscar winner and beloved icon of modern Irish music. Following on from Glen Hansard’s well-received 2012 solo debut, Didn’t He Ramble is a highly polished second outing that finds him taking an occasional look back at the many diverse roads he’s travelled and marvelling at the fact that he found the resilience within himself to keep going during the darker periods. Recorded in Dublin, New York, Chicago and France, Didn’t He Ramble was produced by Thomas Bartlett (The National, Sufjan Stevens), who also helmed his debut, and his megatalented former Frames bandmate David Odlum (Paloma Faith, Tinariwen). Proceedings open with the lush, majestic and guitar-free ‘Grace Beneath the Pines’. ‘Stay The Road’ is the record’s cornerstone, while Dylanesque lead single ‘Winning Streak’ is another song about struggle. There isn’t a single musical misstep on this superbly produced, brilliantly played, and perfectly pitched collection of songs. It’s folk rock, with bells, whistles and gospel singers, and shades of Dylan, Morrison, Cohen and Springsteen. This isn’t an experimental album, nor is it an attempt to push the boundaries of contemporary folk. It’s simply a collection of beautifully crafted, heartfelt songs, created by an artist who has more than earned his place at the high table.

GOWATCH. c i n e m a

p a r a d i s o

With the most responsible month of the year looming, it’s time to distract yourself from your return to college, school, work and the cold weather with some great films. From dinosaurs to dystopias, the joy of utopia to the fear of losing your memory, Roe McDermott has picked out the best new DVD releases for your viewing pleasure.

For a nuanced, heartbreaking drama, look no further than this month’s release of Still Alice. Julianne Moore’s stunning and subtly layered portrayal of a woman suffering Early Onset Alzheimer’s is hugely emotive, placing the audience in the POV of a woman slowly robbed of her identity. Married couple Richard Glatzer and Wash Westmoreland (Quinceanera) direct, and bring a striking emotional intelligence to Alice’s (Moore) journey; undoubtedly due at least in part to Glatzer’s own struggle with another devastating disease, ALS. This personal insight shines through in the directing, which brilliantly uses blurred visuals and a shallow depth of vision to convey Alice’s increasing confusion and isolation. For a woman defined by her intelligence, articulacy and motherhood, the threat of having her identity and independence erased – as well as possibly passing on the disease to her children – adds slow-burning fear and loss to Alice’s journey. Alice’s relationship with youngest daughter Lydia (Kristen Stewart, magnificent) becomes particularly poignant, as the formerly bickering pair realise how little time they may have left together as themselves. Moore’s wonderfully understated transformation from confident intellectual into a nervous, overwhelmed woman marks a perfect performance in a drama that’s sensitive, brave and revealing. On the completely opposite end of the spectrum, Mad Max: Fury Road will leave action lovers drooling over its Cirque de Soleil-style set pieces, and leave everyone else scratching their heads wondering where the plot, dialogue and character arcs went during this entertaining chase through an apocalyptic world. Embracing a film-making philosophy of “show don’t tell”, Miller’s screenplay is light on words – but his characters are both expressive and subversive. Charlize Theron’s role as Furiosa – a steely determined saviour who has few words to spare, but plenty of guts and tech-savvy – is deliberately more intriguing and influential than the self-preserving and unengaging survivor Max (Tom Hardy). The two combine forces during Furiosa’s quest to free the enslaved wives of Immortan Joe, tyrannical ruler of the arid Citadel. Furiosa’s precious human cargo, played by Zoe Kravitz and models Rosie Huntington-Whitely and Abbey Lee, similarly overcome their initially objectifying introduction, evolving from unwitting contestants into warriors, seeking out an older generation of biker women who may offer them refuge. As cameras speed along manic skeletal racer-boys, with face-on shots capturing the wild energy of warriors, a soundtrack filled with dramatic strings and operatic rock guitar creates a pumping energy. Freakshow elements and

Something Fishy: Jurassic World gratuitous gore add an element of Vegas absurdity to this breathless desert ride. Be sure you want to get on, because it won’t stop for you. For more family-friendly action fare, Tomorrowland is the latest adventure from Brad Bird, though it doesn’t quite live up to his past work. Bird has consistently been an artistically masterful, playful and inspiring director, acting as the mastermind behind The Iron Giant, Ratatouille, The Incredibles and the impressively fun Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol. Here, he directs Damon Lindelof’s screenplay, an action-adventure film based on the futuristic Disney attraction, and has not only all of time and space to play with, but also all the dreams encapsulated by The Magical Kingdom. The world is to imminently succumb to the ravages of cynicism, apathy, selfishness and hopelessness – unless optimistic technical whiz Casey Newton (Britt Robertson) can reverse the damage with some creative flair and hope. George Clooney stars as Frank, a former boy genius who knows how to reach Tomorrowland; a world with a unique relationship to time and space where artists, creators and dreamers were encouraged to invent ways and things to make the world better – free from the world’s interference of cynicism and political agenda. The overlong film is an unabashed propaganda piece for hope and activism, but Bird struggles to inspire imagination, rather than just have the message explicitly and repeatedly preached. There are nice messages about young women rectifying the mistakes of male-led worlds, and questions regarding our cultural acceptance of apocalypses, rather than reaching for utopia. Be

warned: It may just turn your kids into optimists. Finally, for some good nostalgia-inducing action, you’ve got to turn to Jurassic World. Though you may think you know all there is to know about Steven Spielberg’s classic dinosaur-ridden world, and may even suspect that the franchise should keep its integrity by acknowledging that bigger isn’t always better – don’t worry, the film is way ahead of you. Colin Treverrow’s film pays due homage to the awe, wonder and terror of the original – while also injecting a lot of meta humour about sequels, the danger of commercialising everything, and the more cynical, tech-obsessed world we live in. Even the park’s new attraction – the huge Indominous Rex – is an acknowledgement that audiences need something extraordinarily big and shiny to attract them. But in spite of the intellectual in-jokes, Jurassic World is also a kick-ass, deeply fun and high-octane action adventure. Chris Pratt makes for a charming and rugged dinosaur trainer who jumps into action when the Indominous Rex escapes and starts rampaging through the park. Meanwhile, brothers Zach and Gray are also battling sibling rivalry and a fear of their parents’ divorce – along with some really insistent dinosaur tormenters. Their uptight park-official aunt (Bryce Dallas Howard) is eagerly searching for them, developing some serious action skills of her own. Despite an unconvincing subplot about training raptors for military use and a climax between identical-looking dinos that is frankly confusing, the film is filled with good humour, great action and enough nostalgia for us oldies.

GOREAD. o u r

b a c k

p a g e s

As the evenings get shorter, there’s nothing better than curling up in front of the fire with a good read; from awardwinning veteran John Banville’s latest effort to hot newcomer Hanya Yanigihara’s sophomore offering, there’s no lack of top class material to devour…

John Banville returns with his latest literary salvo.

People In The Trees – arrives with no shortage of fanfare and acclaim; thankfully, the high praise is well and truly justified. Favoured to claim this year’s Man Booker Prize, it could be the work to seal the American’s place among the elite novelists in the world. Weighing in at a hefty 700 pages, it takes us on a tour of the tortured soul of Jude St Francis, who has recently graduated from a prestigious college. While it opens in glorious technicolour, it’s not long before the lens is focused on altogether darker areas; sexual abuse, suffering and trauma. The mystery of Jude’s past is the engine that drives the novel, and Yanagihara peels back the layers with a relentless and unforgiving brutality. Anyone hoping for an easy read is likely to be disappointed, but there is no hiding the brilliance of the writing. The author’s greatest skill is in drawing complex and compelling characters, and exploring the intricacies of identity. Visceral, vicious and vivid, A Little Life is a novel that doesn’t merely live up to the hype, but soars above it in style. Of course when it comes to spine-tingling

fiction, there’s little more shocking than murderous children; little surprise, then, that Those We Left Behind, the latest effort from Armagh man Stuart Neville is a fascinating – if somewhat disturbing – read. At 12 years old, Ciaran Devine confessed to the murder of his stepfather, whom Ciaran accused of sexually assaulting his older brother, Thomas. Seven years later, and the young man has been paroled; his probation officer – and DCI Serena Flanagan, who worked the case – come to believe that he took the punishment for the crime on Thomas’ behalf. From there, the novel explores the impact of the crime on those touched by it; the family of the victim, the investigating authorities, and, of course, the brothers themselves. It’s this eye for detail that lifts Those We Left Behind far beyond the staple fare of crime novels. It may have an intriguing and beguiling plot, but Neville is as concerned with families and relationships – and the influences these have on our psychology and behaviour – as with highoctane drama. Even if you’re not a huge fan of crime fiction, this is one novel worth a read.

monika karaliunaite

The sixteenth novel by the Wexford-born John Banville solidifies his place as one of the leading literary voices in Ireland. Combining muscular prose with a tender heart and deftness of touch, The Blue Guitar spins a tale of a troubled painter is an intense, humane and engrossing tale. Abandoned by his creative muse, Olly Orme finds himself in a state of flux, and turns to his friend’s wife, Polly Plomer for comfort; their semi-passionate fling plays out with rippling repercussions, not just for the duo themselves. When news of their illicit coupling gets out, it prompts our cowardly anti-hero to hide out in his childhood home, from where he reflects on the affair and its aftermath. As with all of Banville’s work, the pace is slow. This, though, allows the writer to do what he does best; to cast his perceptive eye on the hidden emotions and deeper aspects of the human psyche, and paint them in vivid colours. It might not be the most riveting story in the career of a writer who claimed the Man Booker Prize for his 2005 novel The Sea, but the wonderful writing makes this novel more than worth the read. With glittering descriptions and a luxuriant deployment of language, this is a work to savour. Meanwhile, John Boyne may be one of Ireland’s most underrated writers. While he enjoys sales that most Irish authors can only dream of, he doesn’t seem to be shown the respect afforded to the likes of Anne Enright and Belinda McKeon. Beneath The Earth may change that. A collection of 12 short stories spanning a diverse array of subjects – and settings, though mainly within his home country – it is arguably his finest work. The book opens with ‘Boy, 19’, a grim story about a young male sex worker, though this doesn’t set the tone for what follows; ‘The Schleinermetzenmann’ is a piece of laugh-out-loud brilliance, deploying skilful wordplay in a story about a failed writer and his more successful boyhood friend. Elsewhere, ‘Empire Tour’ explores an episode in Agatha Christie’s first marriage, and showcases Boyne’s deft storytelling. Like any collection, there are some stories better executed than others, but there’s nary a dud among them. Writing a well-judged short story collection is no easy task; the Dubliner has risen to the challenge with aplomb. If this is the work that wakes the world up to Boyne’s genius, then it’s not before time. Outside of Ireland, A Little Life from Hanya Yanigihara – the follow up to her 2013 The

GOWIN. c o m p e t i t i o n Win a short break in Belfast Tourism Norther Ireland have teamed up with the four star Europa Hotel, a four-star facility, boasting a fabulous choice of dining options with menus focused on showcasing the very best of local produce. Its accommodation is comfortable and stylish, and guests can also avail of complimentary wi-fi in the public areas. The Europa Hotel is located in the heart of Belfast city centre, making it the perfect base from which to explore the city. Whether it’s taking a trip through the fascinating history, soaking in its rich culture, or visiting the wonderful new Titanic Quarter, you’ll be ideally situated to make the most of your visit. For further information on short breaks to Belfast contact Tourism Northern Ireland on Callsave 1850 230 230 or click on www. discovernorthernireland.com

THE PRIZE: Tourism Northern Ireland has teamed up with the Europa Hotel to offer a fantastic prize. One lucky entrant will win return travel from Dublin to Belfast on the Enterprise, two nights’ accommodation in the Europa Hotel, breakfast each morning, and dinner on one of the evenings in The Causerie Restaurant. To enter, simply email your answers to gorail@hotpress.com. Please include your contact details, and let us know on which train route or at which station you picked up your copy of Go Rail. Good luck!

THE QUESTIONS: WHICH IRISH PROVINCE PLAYS ITS HOME GAMES AT KINGSPAN PARK IN BELFAST?? • (A) Ulster • (B) Leinster • (C) Munster WHAT MANCHESTER UNITED LEGEND WAS BORN IN BELFAST? • (A) Denis Law • (B) Bobby Charlton • (C) George Best NAME THE BLOCKBUSTER TV SHOW WHICH IS FILMED IN AND AROUND THE CITY OF BELFAST • (A) Mad Men • (B) Game Of Thrones • (C) Breaking Bad Terms & Conditions: Entrants must be over 18. Prize must be taken by 30 June, 2016. Prize is as detailed and is non-transferable. Prize must be taken mid-week Sunday – Thursday. Additional travel is the winner’s own responsibility, as is any item, service, or cost not expressly stated to be included in the prize. See www.discovernorthernireland.com/Competition-Terms-and-Conditions-A2778 for full terms and conditions.

Another outstanding four star hotel option is Celbridge Manor Hotel, located in County Kildare. A luxurious Georgian fronted building at the heart of the beautiful heritage town, it offers breaks from as little as €149 per night, including accommodation, full breakfast, afternoon tea, and a three-course meal at the Schoolhouse Bar. What’s more, if you quote ‘GoRail September 2015’ when making your booking, you’ll receive complimentary tea/coffee and scones on arrival, making sure your stay gets off to the best possible start!

SPECIAL READER OFFER