Grapevine

“G reat wine is made in the vineyard” is a common cliché in the wine industry. Yet no matter how repetitive this statement seems, that doesn’t make it any less accurate. While winemakers are often the public face for most wineries, the vineyard managers who plant, cultivate and harvest grapes play an equally crucial - if less famous - role.

Winegrowers make a host of decisions long before the grapes are made into wine. What vines make the best sense in the vineyard? On which blocks should they be planted? What sprays should be used to protect against insects and disease? Should the grape clusters hang an extra week for optimal ripening, or should they be picked before rot, bad weather, and pests take their toll? The list seems endless.

This role is underappreciated because most consumers don’t understand how difficult it is to grow wine in Virginia. While California benefits from near-optimal growing conditions, Virginia winegrowers must contend with the occasional lateseason frost, high humidity, and the threat of early hurricanes. It’s also a relatively young wine region, still learning what practices and vines work best for its terroir. Katie Henley of Casanel Vineyards once bragged that if you really want to learn how to make wine, come to Virginia, because that’s where the real challenge is.

Fortunately for me, I was able to speak with two experts in the field of viticulture; Sharon Horton of Horton Vineyards, and Maya Hood White of Early Mountain Vineyards. Both shared their opinion on how far Virginia’s viticulture has come and the direction it should go next.

Left: Early Mountain Vineyards grapes and vines. Top: Sharon Horton of Horton Vineyards. Bottom: Maya Hood White at Early Mountain Vineyards.

Sharon Horton, winegrower and owner of Horton Vineyards

Sharon Horton knows plenty about viticulture; she’s been growing grapes