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FOOD Dining Out
BLUE CHEESE GNOCCHI
BY PAULA ROY PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARK HOLLERON
Ottawa has some new gems on the dining front that are turning heads not only for the calibre of their food, but also for their genuine and comprehensive approach to hospitality.
56 ottawaathome.ca WINTER 2020
GRUNT It might seem like an unusual neighbourhood for haute cuisine, but Chef Jason McLelland intentionally chose Mechanicsville when he opened Grunt last May. A native of Scotland who has cooked at some of the top spots around the world, Jason says that he wants to show people that fine dining doesn’t need to be expensive and flashy to be intriguing. With just 22 seats, Grunt offers a cozy, modest environment with rustic barn board throughout and interesting art on the walls. You can watch this genial chef at work in the open kitchen; he might ferry your plates to your table, or it might be his gracious, friendly wife Marie. A short but well-chosen wine list complements the equally-brief food menu, which changes every two weeks. Among the many popular dishes that have been featured are an inventive
take on the porchetta sandwich and a gnocchi Parisienne in carbonara sauce. Vegan and vegetarian options are always available. Dessert is always a standout; recent selections have included sticky toffee pudding, upscale bread and butter pudding, and a gorgeous squid ink meringue with strawberry ice cream and peppered strawberries. With a name like Grunt you might think it’s a meat-centric restaurant but there’s more to the story. “This is my time,” says Jason. “I worked for others at a very high level for so long, making outstanding food and helping sell excellence. But when you’re grunting it out for others, there’s a lot that goes on that guests never know about. Now I get to do things my way and be open and transparent about it. I want people to see it doesn’t have to cost a fortune to eat well and I want this place to be a springboard for making change in the industry.”
