CYCLING
Time to cycle Quebec’s Magdalen Islands BY ALLEN MACARTNEY
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t’s the trip many dream of doing, yet few actually go. But this adventure is almost irresistibly near. The Magdalen Islands (Iles de la Madeleine) is a thin string of sandy islands in the St. Lawrence River that offers many cycling loops with lots of side trips for hiking and exploration. Expect a landscape that’s relatively flat but with gusts of wind that keep things interesting. And if beaches are your thing, you’ll be treated to 300 kilometres of sandy shoreline with dunes and red sandstone cliffs – spectacular photography opportunities. As you cycle this remote paradise of old lighthouses, and brightly painted homes, stop to sample the local culinary treats like lobster and crab, and treat your senses to some traditional Magdalen folk music. Here are some sample tours.
A) CAP-AUX-MEULES TO GROS-CAP
This easy 50-kilometre loop begins not far from Parc de Gros-Cap campground and goes from l’Etangdu-Nord, to the Site de la Côte, Cap Hérissé, BelleAnse and Fatima. It’s a wonderfully scenic ride. Don’t miss the Corfu Island wreck which you’ll be able to see from the Dune de l’Ouest Beach. Count on a spectacular sunset at Belle Anse with breath-taking reflections of the nearby cliff. And you could step off your two-wheeled steed and mount a four-legged one to gallop along the sandy beach at dusk! Finish off your day with a visit to Pas Perdus Restaurant for a menu that offers everything from savoury calamari, and coconut-curry mussels, to linguine carbonara, and Pied-de-Vent (a famous local cheese).
B) CAP-AUX-MEULES TO GROSSE ILE
Located on the northeastern tip of the island archipelago, this 60-kilometre loop over relatively flat terrain starts at Cap-aux-Meules and leads to Grosse Ile, and back. You’ll likely see kite surfers at Pointe aux Loups Island, which is also a great place for lunch. This site is particularly delightful with light southwesterly winds. Grosse-Ile also offers birds and other animals as you pass through the Pointe de l’Est National Wildlife Area. Take time for sunbathing at spectacular Grande Echouerie Beach where the sand actually squeaks underfoot. A detour to the À l’abri de la tempête offers a chance to taste its delightful blonde beer charmed out of local wild herbs.
C) BIKE TOUR AROUND BASSIN
This 25-kilometre loop starts at #102, Highway 199 in Havre-Aubert and takes you around the western end of the island on paved roads all the way. You’ll
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D HOW TO GET THERE Most people choose ferries, one from Montreal, and another from Prince Edward Island. Some drive, while do it all by bicycle. Whatever you choose, make reservations for hotels, camping and bicycles before your adventure. More into at Tourisme Iles de la Madeleine at 1-877-624-4437, or www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com
pass a number of distinctive architectural styles including a church at Bassin, and the Anse à la Cabane lighthouse that stands sentinel atop lovely red cliffs. Don’t miss the view of Corps Mort Rock in the distance. Serious riders will find plenty of hills and valleys along this intermediate loop. If the wind is blowing from the southwest, cycling in a counter-clockwise direction will ease your labours.
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D) HAVRE AUX BASQUES
This 21-kilometre route is a favourite. Starting at the Chemin la Martinique at l’Etang-du-Nord cycle southwest along the Havre aux Basques dune to the Grave Historical Site on Havre Aubert Islands. Expect winds coming from all directions as you’ll be riding along Highway 199 between two bays. Along one side, the bare hills of Entry Island rise over the waters of the Baie de Plaisance. On the other side, Havre aux Basques Bay is home to a wide variety of birds to add to your birding list. Before arriving at the Grave Historical Site look up ahead and see the myriad of colourful traditional island homes clinging to the slopes of Les Demoiselles. No bucket list is complete without a cycling tour of Quebec’s Magdalen Islands.
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