Discovery Coast
The Chinook Observer’s Free 2012 Visitors’ Guide Washington’s South Pacific County & Long Beach Peninsula
RAZOR CLAMMING IS FAMILY FUN: Page 15 FUN at the BEACH: Page 2 & 3
ROD RUN to the END of the WORLD: Page 23
OYSTERS: Page 21
2012 Fun on the Coast Calendar
KEVIN HEIMBIGNER photo
Playing in the water is lots of fun and the beaches of South Pacific County attract hundreds of thousands of visitors each year. Birdwatching, boogie-boarding, sandcastle building, kite flying, picnicking, beachcombing and romantic walks are just a few of the memory-making activities youʼll discover here. (Make sure not to go more than ankle-deep and keep a close eye on children; ocean currents are deceptively strong.)
TABLE OF CONTENTS FUN STUFF TO DO Arts..........................................................24 Beaches & beachcombing ....................3 Cranberries ......................................25 Fishing ..............................................12 General recreation ..........................10 Golf....................................................10 Jack’s Country Store ......................14 Marsh’s Museum ............................26 Razor clamming ..............................15 Saturday Market................................4 Walking trails ............................10, 13 Whales ..............................................13 Wildlife watching........................16-17 HISTORY & CULTURE Carriage Museum ............................26 Clamshell Railroad ............................7 Confluence Project ............................5 Cranberry Museum ........................25 Heritage Museum ............................27 Lewis & Clark Interpretive ..............5 Lighthouses ........................................5 Oystering ........................................21 Pacific County Museum ..................27 Shipwrecks........................................28 World Kite Museum ..........................9 FESTIVALS & EVENTS Cranberrian Fair ............................25 Finn Festival ....................................27 2 | Discovery Coast 2012
Kite Festival........................................9 Long Beach Rodeo ..........................11 Rod Run............................................23 THE PARKS & REFUGES Cape Disappointment ........................5 Lewis & Clark National Park ..........7 Long Island ......................................29 THE TOWNS Ilwaco..................................................4 Long Beach ........................................8 Nahcotta............................................20 Ocean Park ......................................19 Oysterville ........................................22 Seaview ..............................................7 Surfside ............................................22 GENERAL INFO Calendar ............................................2 Coast Guard ....................................31 Discover Pass ....................................5 Maps ............................................30-31 Safety tips ........................................31 Welcome..............................................3
VISITORS BUREAU INFO: 642-2400 OR 800-451-2542 WWW.FUNBEACH.COM
JULY July 14 — Waikiki Concert Series, Cape Disappiontment July 14-15 — Clamshell Railroad Days, Ilwaco & Seaview July 20-22 — Summer Art Festival, Peninsula Arts Association July 21 — Art Walk, Ilwaco July 21-22 — Bald Eagle Festival, Cathlamet July 22 — Wooden Boat Festival, Cathlamet July 28— Waikiki Concert Series, Cape Disappointment July 25-29 — 27th Annual SandSations, Long Beach July 27-29 — Finn-American Folk Festival, Naselle July 27 —NPRA Rodeo Parade, Long Beach July 28-29 — 67th NPRA Rodeo, Long Beach July 28 — Oregon Tuna Classic, Ilwaco July 31-Aug. 4— Clatsop County Fair, Astoria AUGUST Through Aug. 4— Clatsop County Fair, Astoria Aug. 3-4 — Jake’s Birthday, Long Beach Aug. 8-12 — Regatta, Astoria Aug. 11 — Art Walk, Ilwaco Aug. 11 — Waikiki Concert Series, Cape Disappointment Aug. 19 — Jazz and Oysters in Oysterville Aug. 16-18 — Wahkiakum County Fair, Skamokawa Aug. 17-18 — Blues & Seafood Festival, Ilwaco Aug. 20-26 — Washington State International Kite Festival Aug. 22-25 — Pacific Co. Fair, Menlo “Lettuce Turnip & Beet It to the Fair” Aug. 25 — Waikiki Concert Series, Cape Disappointment Aug. 25 — Civil War Reenactment, Warrenton Aug. 26-28 — Downhill Longboard Races, Cathlamet SEPTEMBER Sept. 1-3—Chinook Art Festival, Chinook Sept. 1—Buzzard Breath Chili Cook-off, Cathlamet Sept. 7 — Slow Drag at the Port at 5 p.m., Ilwaco Sept. 8 — Annual Auction & Wine Tasting, Skamokawa Sept. 8-9— Rod Run to the End of the World Sept. 8-9 — Commercial Fishermen’s Fest, Hammond Marina Sept.15 —Discovery Trail Half Marathon, Long Beach Sept. 17 — Art Walk, Ilwaco Sept. 30 — Great Columbia Crossing, Megler to Astoria OCTOBER Oct. 1 — Wild Mushroom Celebration begins in South Pacific County Oct. 5-6 — Columbia River Country Days, Wahkiakum County Oct. 5-8 — Peninsula Arts Association Fall Art Show Oct. 12-14 — Water Music Festival, Peninsula Oct. 13-14 — Cranberrian Fair, Peninsula Oct. 13-14 — One Sky, One World Kite Festival, Long Beach Oct. 27-29 — Graveyard of the Pacific Events NOVEMBER Nov. 3 — Holiday Bazaar, Rosburg Community Hall Nov. 4 — Daylight Saving Time Ends (Fall back) Nov. 10 — Veterans Luncheon, Rosburg Community Hall Nov. 9-10 — ‘Ocian in View’ Speaker Series, Ilwaco Nov. 23-24 — Peninsula Arts Studio Tour Nov. 23-25 — Holidays at the Beach, Long Beach Nov. 24 — Tree Lighting; Santa Arrives, Long Beach Nov. 26— Festival of Trees, Cathlamet Nov. 26 — Tree Lighting Parade with Santa, Cathlamet DECEMBER Dec. 1-31 — Whale Watching On The Coast Dec. 1 — Lighted Boat Parade, Port of Ilwaco Dec. 1 — Crab Pot Christmas Tree Lgtng, Port of Ilwaco Dec. 8-9 — Peninsula Bed & Breakfast Association Holidays Dec. 9 — A Tuba Christmas, Seaview Dec. 31 — New Year’s Fireworks, Long Beach
Welcome to the Discovery Coast Pacific County and its Long Beach Peninsula on the southwestern coast of Washington state are among the most exciting, scenic, delicious and historic places on the West Coast — 2012 is a perfect year to visit. Our beaches have always been our star attraction, with dozens of miles of sandy seashore, river banks and one of America’s premier estuaries — Willapa Bay. It is water, water everywhere. You’re never more than a few minutes from a breathtaking view and restorative recreation. This amazing intersection of the Pacific Ocean and the Columbia River has been a nexus for adventure-seekers and history-makers for thousands of years. The mighty seafaring Chinook people established one of the great Native American civilizations here. The first well-recorded visits by explorers began in the 1700s, though Spanish, Chinese and Japanese people all left traces of even earlier trading and exploring voyages. Lewis and Clark arrived in 1805, and considered their mission accomplished upon seeing the ocean from the same cliffs and shores you can visit today. Lewis and Clark National Park celebrates all these courageous and interesting Indians, explorers and pioneers. Festivals and classic summer holidays are perfect times to partake of our world-class oysters, crab and other seafood. A wide array of comfortable lodging choices await you. Make this the year you join the explorers who discover this incredible place and our welcoming villages!
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
The breaking waves at Waikiki Beach (named in honor of an early Hawaiian explorer of our coastline) are some of the most photographed natural wonders in the Pacific Northwest. In fact, anchored by Cape Disappointment State Park, all of Pacific County is one of the most popular vacation destinations in Washington and Oregon. Come discover it for yourself!
2012: Year of the weird on the beach
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
North Head Lighthouse in Cape Disappointment State Park near Ilwaco is a star attraction near Washingtonʼs southwestern tip.
You never know what you’ll find on the beach. This will be even more true than usual this year and next. In the ordinary course of events, handblown glass fishing floats and enormous deceased whales are some of the things you may encounter on our miles of shoreline. Someone found a Civil War-era artillery shell on the Columbia River bank near Ilwaco this spring. Huge and valuable 24-inch by 24-inch wooden beams still pop up from time to time — the cargo of a nearly-century-old shipwreck that is still in the process of breaking apart down in its watery tomb. But in 2012 and 2013, beaches from Alaska to Oregon are sure to be on the receiving end of the sad aftermath of the 2011 Japanese tsunami. This deadly series of earthquake-spawned floods carried millions of tons of debris into the Pacific, at a horrific cost of thousands of lives. This is now making its way on currents across the ocean, car-
rying everything from small fishing boats to crated-up Harley motorcycles. The vast majority of this tsunami material consists of insulating foam, splintered wood, plastics, household items and other mournful reminders of the good people who lost their lives in this natural disaster. There has been no sign of any radioactive materials from damaged nuclear power plants, nor is anything of this nature even remotely expected.
Glass fishing-net float found in 2012.
You can help respond to this event by depositing any disposable items in public trash receptacles. Keep your eyes open for interesting objects. If an item appears to have sentimental value to those who owned it, the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) requests people move the item to a safe place and email the information to disasterdebreis@noaa.gov. More information is available at NOAA’s marine debris website at marinedebris.noaa.gov. • The Washington Department of Ecology has a debris hotline: call 1855-WACOAST (1-855-922-6278). • It is possible that containers with hazardous chemical materials will wash ashore. Don’t touch or try to remove the items. Call both the National Response Center at 1-800-424-8802 and state EMD at 1-800-OILS-911 (1-800-258-5990). • If boaters encounter large debris items still in the water, call the National Response Center at 1-800-424-8802. Discovery Coast 2012 | 3
Ilwaco: Washington’s famous fishing capital Ilwaco is an incredible place. It possesses a proud maritime tradition stretching back thousands of years, first in the cedar canoes of the Chinook Indian people and continuing
on through the sailing era, up to the commercial and sport fishing fleets of today. Framed by one of the world’s most scenic harbors, Ilwaco offers a first-hand experi-
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
Ilwacoʼs Black Lake Fishing Derby in May introduces kids to the fun of fishing.
4 | Discovery Coast 2012
ence of humanity’s long partnership with the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean. Summer and fall offer unparalleled opportunities to get out on the water, either in the pursuit of fish, or just to partake in the sights and sensations of one of the world’s great rivers and nearby ocean waters. If fishing is your heart’s desire, public boat launches provide easy access to the water. There are plenty of charter offices to fulfill any angler’s request. Salmon, sturgeon, tuna and bottom fishing trips are available in season and fresh seafood is available year around. Seals, sea lions and whales all are spotted offshore. A pod of orcas, or killer whales, is sometimes observed in the ocean here. A full-service marina and boatyard and a waterfront promenade for strolling makes Ilwaco Harbour Village a stop you don’t want to miss. Unique gift shops with that special something you can’t find anywhere else and art galleries for that one-of-a-kind treasure dot the waterfront. Downtown Ilwaco, a short stroll from the port, is in the midst of many positive changes, with old buildings being refurbished and new ones being planned.
May through September, the Port of Ilwaco hosts a Saturday Market that attracts vendors, craftspeople and musicians from around the region. Pick from the freshest produce, baked goods and plants. Wonderful crafts and handiwork abound with something new every weekend. It is open every Saturday, rain or shine, all summer long from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
If you are hungry, there are several dining experiences to choose from downtown and at the port. From a quick bowl of chowder to pasta dinners, you’re sure to find a bite to satisfy the appetites of all. Downtown Ilwaco and Ilwaco Harbour Village: Where the Columbia River meets the mighty Pacific Ocean. Come experience it all for yourself.
Cape D State Park: Washington’s vacation destination Cape Disappointment is one of Washington state’s most famous and popular parks. Some of its favorite features include: a premier campground, beautiful beaches, new public artworks, two lighthouses, an interpretive center and miles of hiking trails. CAMPING: Cape Disappointment State Park has 152 standard campsites, 83 utility sites, five primitive campsites, one dump station, eight restrooms (two ADA) and 14 showers (four ADA). Maximum site length is 45 feet (may have limited availability). Camping is available year-round. To reserve a campsite, call 888-CAMPOUT or 888-226-7688. BEACHCOMBING: Take your pick from three beaches for your beachcombing or strolling. Waikiki Beach is located where the North Jetty meets the rocky cape. This beach is one of the locals’ favorite spots for storm watching because the waves crash on the cape here with the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse in the background. Benson Beach is the sandy stretch from the North Jetty to North Head, hikers can enjoy the lack of vehicles, the huge driftwood trees and a great view of the North Head Lighthouse. Beards Hollow, the southern stretch of the Peninsula, offers visitors a
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chance to view tide pools at low tide near the historic “Fishing Rocks” or take the Discovery Trail north to Long Beach or east to Ilwaco. THE CONFLUENCE PROJECT: The Confluence Project site is one of seven locations on the Columbia River where artist Maya Lin has created places to think. Using the language of the Chinook people and members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, these artworks put the Bicentennial into a larger perspective, encouraging the visitor to re-consider the cultural and natural layers of history found on the Lower Columbia River. The site at Cape Disappointment includes a basalt fish-cleaning table, a Baker Bay viewing platform, several short trails, and a new amphitheater with a view of the ocean. TWO LIGHTHOUSES: The park offers access to two historic lighthouses. The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse was lit in 1856, making it the first in the Pacific Northwest. The view from the Cape Disappointment light is astounding, overlooking the Columbia River bar from the very tip of the cape. The picturesque North Head Lighthouse is perched on the headland surrounded by the ocean in all its glory. Tours are conducted daily at North Head during summer months and on weekends in the off-season. There is a small fee. Children younger than 7 may not climb up into the light. HIKING TRAILS The cape has over eight miles of hiking trails to choose from. These trails lead hikers through multiple ecosystems, from coastal fog forest to the saltwater marsh to grass-covered dunes. The rustic trails cut through some impressive huge old spruce and hemlock trees and often end up either at a lighthouse or at an abandoned military structure. Fort Canby was a coastal defense fort at the cape from 1852 to 1947. Pick up a hiking trail map from the park office or the interpretive center.
Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center Exhibits also interpret Fort Canby, the Overlooking the mouth of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean, the Lewis and coastal ecosystems, the U.S. Life-saving Service and shipwrecks. Historic artifacts Clark Interpretive Center was recently on display include a expanded and now first-order Fresnel features new exhibits lens constructed in and ranger-led inter1822 and used in pretive programs. both of the cape’s Original lighthouses and a exhibits, which Life-Saving Service include hands-on surf boat. activities, trace the The Lewis and entire expedition Clark Interpretive with particular Center is open daily, detail on the Corps year around from of Discovery’s 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. explorations of the Admission for adults Columbia River. A is $5, $2.50 for chilnew video titled, DAMIAN MULINIX photo dren ages 7 to 17, “Of Dreams and A rare French-made lighthouse lens is Discovery” focuses among the remarkable artifacts on dis- kids 6 and under are free. Tours, proon how the arrival play in the interpretive center. grams, and guided of the Lewis and hikes are available with an appointment Clark Expedition to the ocean at Cape made in advance. Call 360-642-3029 for Disappointment was the fulfillment of more information. President Thomas Jefferson’s vision.
Here’s how to find NORTH HEAD LIGHTHOUSE: Drive west from the traffic light in downtown Ilwaco following the signs for Cape Disappointment State Park. After a winding two miles of road, turn right at the lighthouse sign to the trailhead parking area. Directions to CAPE D LIGHTHOUSE: Continue one mile past the North Head turnoff, following the signs to the
state park and the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center. A one and onehalf mile round-trip trail leads to the lighthouse from the center itself or its lower parking lot.This trail is physically challenging in places, particularly in wet weather, but the scenic views are worth the exertion.The interior of the Cape D light is rarely open to visitors; subscribers should watch for notices in the Chinook Observer newspaper.
Dr. J. Stephen Bell walk-ins welcome 360.642.2662 116 Spruce Street
Ilwaco Urgent Care
Discover Pass
Washington state requires a Discover Pass in order to park in state parks and on certain other public recreational lands, which are designated by signs. This fee provides a majority of funding for the park system. One pass can be transferred back and forth between two vehicles. There is a $99 fine for parking without a pass. Q. How much does the Discover Pass cost? A. The Discover Pass costs $30 per vehicle per year or $10 per vehicle for a day-use pass. Dealer and transaction fees may apply. Dealer fee is $2 per annual pass or $.50 for the day pass; transaction fee is 10 percent of the cost of the pass/permit. The annual pass is good for one year from the date of purchase. Q. Where will I need a Discover Pass? A. The pass provides access to state recreation lands and water access sites managed by Washington State Parks, Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) and Washington State Department of Natural Resources (DNR). These lands include state parks, water access points, heritage sites, wildlife and natural areas, trails and trailheads. Q. Where can I purchase a pass? A. You have several options for purchasing a pass: —In person at any of nearly 600 sporting goods or other retail stores that sell hunting and fishing licenses. — Online through WDFW’s online recreational licensing system at https://fishhunt.dfw.wa.gov. — When you renew your Washington state vehicle license.
Discovery Coast 2012 | 5
NWMLS
360-642-3325
877-637-1412
1711 Pacific Ave So., Long Beach, WA 98631 • www.discoverycoastrealestate.com Discovery Coast Real Estate is able to provide you, as buyer or seller, with quality assistance. If you’re looking for a home, vacation cottage, commercial property, vacant land, or investment property, we have the tools and expertise you need. We cover South Pacific County including Naselle, Chinook, Ilwaco, Seaview, Long Beach, Klipsan Beach, Ocean Park, Nahcotta, Surfside and Oysterville!
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Double lot, which includes 1/2 the vacated alley. 3 R/V hookups (one with only water & power). 3 bedroom septic installed. Huge gravel pad for your RV and your friends’ RVs! Seller will consider terms for the right buyer. Adjoining property available. $50,000 OYSTERVILLE - Large parcel with tall trees and high ridge to build your home. Septic in. $74,900. Nearly 2 acres on high ridge, cleared w/gravel drive. $79,950 SURFSIDE: On the canal, just $25,000; Ocean view, $60,000 (wow!); Treed lot, manuf. ok, $18,000
Sellers receive professional service from a well established firm, experienced in the Peninsula’s unique real estate market. Our focus on technology means your property is at buyers’ fingertips day or night, on many different internet sites.
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Buyers can search for that perfect buy whether listed by our firm or not, and instantly be updated on properties that suit their needs. We can show and sell any property listed for sale!
Coastal Ridge Town home with ocean view. This lovely home is sitting high above the sea and touching the sky! 2 master bedrooms, 3.5 baths, 2nd living room (the “grand room”), 4 decks and an unparalleled gated community. Home features granite slab counters, hiefficiency Lenox propane fireplace, heat pump, stainless appliances. Short Sale. $339,000. 3252 Overlook Lp, Ilwaco
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Seven blocks north of downtown, a large commercial building currently occupied by “The Picture Attic”, specializing in custom picture framing, digital photo finishing, rubberstamping, scrapbooking, classes and art supplies. Main floor has 3388 sqft retail/office space, upper level has 1248 sqft living
SOUTH:
space. Convert to any configuration you want. Includes 3 lots. Business also available! 711 Pacific Ave No., Long Beach
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ATTN Equestrians: Country living with all the conveniences of town. Set up for your equestrian fun with easy access to the beach & rodeo grounds. Large greatroom style home w/vaulted ceilings, skylights, large kitchen. 2 bedrooms, 2.5 baths, den/office or non-conforming sleeping room, family room, bonus room. Private backyard & plenty of room for gardening. 2210 Sid Snyder Dr., Long Beach
level has large family rm w/ fplc, 2 bdrms, full bath & lots of storage. Upper level glows from hardwood floors & multiple windows. Cozy family room off kitchen, plus dining rm, living rm w/fplc. Step out to the deck for BBQs & enjoying the sweet smells of fresh air & flowers. 720 sf garage/shop houses laundry room with deep sink, plus lots of shop space. $279,900 2123 Wecoma Pl, Ilwaco
EAST:
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DISCOVERY HEIGHTS BUILDING LOTS: Several to choose from in this beautiful gated community, high above Ilwaco. Ocean, river & bay views! City sewer & water, paved streets. View a sample tour!
WEST:
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LARGE BUILDING LOT, paved street, POTENTIAL OCEAN VIEW. Long Beach West Side. $150,000 19th St NW
HISTORIC SEAVIEW: A great example of Seaview architecture, the “Thorsen House” was built in 1902 & retains the charm of that era. Master suite up w/claw foot tub. Formal dining room has built-ins, beveled glass library doors. West side porch is glass & hardwood w/perfect corner for evening dining. Basement has laundry, rec room, bedroom, bath, more. Propane & wood fireplaces. Shed w/ skylights, wood stove, could be a great studio! 4916 K Pl. Seaview
Extra large lot on cul-de-sac with private path to the beach. Close to town, beach trail, golf. Zoned R-3. Power is installed, city water is available. 11801 Pacific Way $55,950
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SA-HA-LEE: On top of the world! Cheery tiled entry into spacious home. Lower
Custom oceanfront home on quiet lane.
Quiet except for the sound of the Not far out of Long Beach, west location. Two surveyed lots beginnings of a home. Power and installed. 1250 142nd Ln. $40,000
Incredible views, private beach trail. Too many amenities to list here but a sampling includes: Milgard tinted windows, retractable screen patio storm doors, cedar shingle siding, outdoor shower area, heated hobby/shop area, custom lighting/entertainment area, easy care porcelain tile, DeWils Cherry cabinets and a Viking propane 6 burner cooktop. Two bedrooms + extra sleeping room. Did I mention the view? And the list goes on...
sea! side with well
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Picture yourself in this fantastic home on the shore of Willapa Bay. All bedrooms are en suite and almost every room in the home has a bay view! Dream kitchen, breakfast room, sun room, formal dining room. Basement is fully finished. Over 3 acres plus common area and 2nd class tidelands. Oversized 3 car garage. Gazebo finishes the picture-perfect grounds.
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SOUTH BAY 5 ACRE HOMESITES: Only 4 lots left! On beautiful and serene Willapa Bay. Gated, paved entry. Geese, ducks, elk wandering the property. Nature at its finest.
For all your real estate needs www.discoverycoastrealestate.com 6 | Discovery Coast 2012
Beach, dunes and comfortable family recreation meet in Seaview Celebrate the Clamshell Railroad Seaview once was a main stop for our Peninsula’s famous railroad. The Ilwaco Railroad and Navigation Co., was launched in March 1888 at the Ilwaco wharf. Steamers could only reach the wharf after the tide was in mid-flood. So train departures were successively later over a month’s time. It is likely that the Ilwaco line was the only organized railroad to operate by a tide table, thus its nickname, the “Clamshell Railroad.” A summer camper offered the railroad a lot in Seaview, if a depot was erected on it. The line accepted and that depot is now a popular restaurant. The railroad continued in operation until Sept. 10, 1930, when car ferries and highways brought most visitors here. It is still remembered, however, during Clamshell Railroad Days in July. It’s also still possible to see one of the IR&N’s elegant passengers cars, cherished at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum in Ilwaco. Chef/Owner Lalewicz has “food angels singing in the kitchen” ~ NW Palate
Seaview was founded in 1881 by Jonathon L. Stout and his wife Anne Elizabeth Gearhart, daughter of Phillip Gearhart, for whom the town in northwest Oregon is named. The two villages share parallel traditions of history and charm. Seaview is located between Ilwaco and Long Beach but has a character very distinct from its two neighbors. It is, most would agree, one of the Peninsula’s most “classy” villages. Seaview is home to some wonderful B&Bs and restaurants, including the comfortable Shelburne Inn — a National Historical Landmark — and the fantastic Depot Restaurant. Seaview’s waterfront is a popular launching spot for walks south and north on the Northwest’s longest beach. It is somewhat less busy in the summer than the Long Beach seashore access routes to the north, and thus makes for a more peaceful setting. It is in Seaview where growth (also called accretion) of the beach is most noticeable, with 2,000 feet or more of dunes separating the village’s original shoreline from the ocean today. This means several shipwreck sites lie under what is now dry land, including those of the Vandalia which wrecked in 1853 with a loss of nine lives, and the Marie, which wrecked in 1852, also with a loss of nine. Best attractions on the Seaview beach:
MADELINE DICKERSON photo
Surfers head out for a ride near Fishing Rocks on the south end of the Peninsula, an area also popular among picnicking families. Only expert swimmers and surfers should venture into local waters.
This is a classic Northwest beach, the original seashore resort for the Portland elite, and deservedly so. There are miles of clean sand, many shorebirds, friendly people and pretty views of the distant cliffs and bob-
bing crab boats. The new Discovery Trail threads its way through the Seaview dunes, providing a walking/biking path all the way from northern Long Beach to Ilwaco.
Lewis and Clark National Park honors explorers
Covered Heated Deck Peninsula’s Only Display Kitchen www.depotrestaurantdining.com 1208 38th Place (on the Seaview Beach approach)
360-642-7880
Celebrating America’s most famous explorers who arrived here at the mouth of the Columbia in November 1805, Lewis and Clark National Park encompasses several of the West’s most important historical places. Visit the sites in any order you wish; the National Park Service recommends starting at the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment State Park or at Fort Clatsop near Astoria. Both have gift shops and exhibits on the heritage of the region, as well as helpful rangers. The most significant site on the Washington side of the Columbia is Middle Village-Station Camp, where the explorers spent almost two weeks. A center for Chinook Indian life for thousands of years, a fresh new national park unit is opening there in the summer of 2012. The park is located on U.S. Highway 101, just east of the Chinook tunnel. During the 10 years before Lewis and Clark arrived overland at this spot, almost 90 trade ships from Europe and New England are documented to have crossed the Columbia River bar to trade with Native Americans, according to the park service. In 2005, archeologists found abundant physical evidence to support the importance of the site as one of the earliest Pacific Rim trade sites. The park service says several significant events took place at Station Camp, including the decision to spend the winter across the
river, in what is now Oregon. It was Nov. 24, 1805, and the captains desperately needed to lead the Corps to a winter campsite, one rich with game and nearby friendly tribes who would trade for supplies. A majority of the Corps, including the Indian woman Sacagawea and the African American York, voted to cross the Columbia River to look for such a place. Station Camp eventually will encompass about 280 acres and be operated by the Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Parks. The National Park headquarters’ phone number is 503-861-2471. Extensive information is also available on-line at www.nps.gov/lewi.
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n o L each B g :W erefm ilaiesm em ak eo ries beach, dunes and forests. Founded in 1880 by Henry Harrison Tinker from Maine, Long Beach has been a resort town since the beginning. Unlike many “beach” towns, Long
Long Beach is a fun place, famous in the Northwest for its eccentric charm, its bustling summer sidewalks, its many festivals and soaring kites. It also is a place of incredible natural assets: miles of
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
IG
HTHOUS
REALTY
www.lighthouseproperty.com Todd Kaino
360-244-0523
Becky Ellis
360-783-1275
Designated Broker/Owner Broker/Realtor
Angela Simonson
360-244-1586
Bob Mathews
214-649-1424
Managing Broker/Realtor Broker/Realtor
Ann Powell
360-244-0698
Broker/Realtor
Brenda Bliss
360-783-2285
Broker/Realtor
A good time doesn’t have to be expensive • Settle in for some people watching. Leading sites include benches along the boardwalk and anywhere in fun downtown Long Beach. • Take a romantic walk on the boardwalk and Discovery Trail in the evening, enjoying the sounds of the surf and whispering dunegrass. • Hit the many yard and garage sales. • Watch (or participate) in one of the softball games on fields just east of downtown Long Beach. There’s also a new playground for the kids near the corner of Bolstad and Washington avenues, two blocks east of the main stoplight. • Stop by real estate offices and daydream about owning your very own piece of heaven. • Pull up a sand dune and just spend a few hours reading a nice trashy summer novel and forgetting your everyday cares. Public restrooms are located near the beach at the two main paved approaches at Sid Snyder Drive (South 10th St.) and near Bolstad Avenue (First Street) in the small state park near the north end of the boardwalk. Others are located next to the Long Beach Police Station and in the small city park on 5th Street South near Super 8 Motel.
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Columbia Pacific Farmers Market is open from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m., every Friday in downtown Long Beach. Come check out the wide variety of homegrown foods and flowers, and onsite prepared goodies — and sometimes scary skulls for the kids!
Beach is a place with a solid core of reality — the people who make their homes here love it. It is, first and foremost, a community. When you visit Long Beach, what you’ll experience is a bright little town that happens to be on the beach. Visitors to the Peninsula inevitably gravitate toward Long Beach for its shops and the many activities geared toward families, teens and children. This is where you’ll find amusement rides, horse rentals, go-carts, video arcades, bumper cars and other traditional beach fare. Long Beach also has much to appeal to mature visitors, such as its famous boardwalk, the great new paved Discovery Trail along the crest of the dunes, and a nice variety of art galleries, gift stores and restaurants. If you’ve been here before, come again and see how much Long Beach has transformed in the past few years. If you haven’t been here, come take a look. You won’t regret it. Long Beach has many motels, B&Bs and RV parks, so finding a place to stay is rarely a problem. But on festival weekends, be sure to have a reservation and to check in early in the day.
Northwest Multiple Listing Service
Char Wolters
360-244-0825
Managing Broker/Realtor
Cheri Grocott
360-921-1970
Broker/Realtor
Dan Whealdon
360-244-1933
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Gary McGrew
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Fantastic Kite Museum If you love kites, you’ll love Long Beach’s World Kite Museum and Hall of Fame, and now there’s a lot more of it to love. The museum has a great new facility 10 times as large as its old building.The museum is on West Sid Snyder Dr., one of Long Beach’s major beach approach roads. The museum hosts the most representative collection of Japanese kites outside of Japan, a truly world-class collection of other kites and a wide array of photos and materials relating to kites and kiting events. The museum was established to preserve and promote all aspects of world-wide kiting and to recognize noteworthy individuals for their outstanding contributions in kiting, within their countries or internationally. In its new quarters, the kite museum not only has ample space to display more of its collection, but also rooms for seminars and classes relating to this sport that plays such a big part on the Long Beach Peninsula, with its miles of sand and steady breezes. “The size and location could make this a destination museum and be part of a very attractive tourist package that will include Fort Clatsop and the Maritime Museum in Oregon and the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center on this side of the River,” museum board member Jim Sayce said. The new facility is 10,360 square feet and is two stories tall with an ocean view and a grass area just right for kite demonstrations.There is also plenty of parking.The upstairs has a vaulted ceiling and part of the structure is open for the full two stories, perfect for dynamic kite displays to fill the area. Museum Director Kay Buesing notes that kites on exhibit tell of the history, art, science and sport of kiting.The displays themselves are an adventure.The museum has a gift shop. For information, call 642-4020 or see http://kitefestival.com/
Long Beach kite fest takes flight If ever there was a place perfectly suited to flying kites, our long, long beach is it. With a better than average chance of warm, dry weather during August (although the opposite is also within the realm of possibility), the Washington State International Kite Festival in Long Beach packs an infinite amount of fun into one short week. Our beach is wide, white and windy, offering optimal conditions for kites. Ours is one of the few beaches around that’s actually growing — if it’s been a few years since you were last here, you may be walking on beach that was once under water. Spanning every category of intention, design and color — from whimsical to practical to rainbow-hued — kites will inhabit the skies over our beach. You can expect to see just about anything in our pure, ocean-borne air, including some of the most fantastic shapes the mind can imagine. Dozens of vendors will supply food and fun items for the 100,000 or so guests who are expected to attend the event that runs six very full days. Kay Buesing, who along with husband Jim and others helped lift off the first festival in 1981, is excited about sharing the World Kite Museum and Hall of Fame at its location
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
Long Beach skies are fllled with kites and colorful contraptions each August.
on Sid Snyder Drive. Souvenir sales benefit the festival and take place all week at a downtown booth. Sweatshirts (crew and hooded), fleece jackets, T-shirts, muscle shirts, tank tops, earrings, pins, patches, hats and Christmas ornaments are among the many items for sale. Private vendors have kites in a variety of shapes and sizes. Registration for each day’s events begins at 8 a.m. and activities start at
10 a.m. each day. For a complete schedule of events and many colorful and informative stories you can pick up a 2012 official WSIKF program at local businesses, the Visitors Bureau or the Kite Museum. We hope you have a grand time at the Washington State International Kite Festival, Aug. 20 to 26, 2012. Come out and “Break a string!” See kitefestival.com/kite-festival
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Discovery Coast 2012 | 9
Outdoor recreation options abound in South Pacific County TENNIS Free outdoor tennis courts of various descriptions can be found all along the Peninsula. Both the Ilwaco City Park and Long Beach’s Culbertson Park have courts (and outdoor basketball courts). A tennis court along U.S. 101 in Seaview is operated by the Seaview Community Club. See signs on the courts for rules. Lighthouse Resort Tennis Club, 12417 Pacific Highway, north of Long Beach, offers both memberships and use by fee. It is a stateof-the-art facility that houses two regulation blue-green U.S. Open courts. For more information call 642-3622, email manager@lighthouseresort.net. SWIMMING Peninsula beaches are considered unsafe for swimming. No matter how calm or inviting the water looks, or how strong a swimmer one may be, drownings sometimes
occur. Severe undercurrents and rip tides can pull — and have pulled — even the most experienced swimmers out past their limits. Swimming opportunities on the Peninsula are limited to private or public pools. The Dunes, a professional indoor pool, is located just south of Ocean Park on the west side of Highway 103 at the Dunes Bible Camp. For more information and hours, call the camp at 6655542. Eagle’s Nest in Ilwaco, 6428351, is another option. RUNNING The hard-packed sand of its beach and its bountiful back roads make the Peninsula a great place for the jogger and runner. Ilwaco High School also has an eight-lane, all-weather track which is usually available for use during daylight hours. Discovery Trail from Long Beach to Ilwaco offers incredible views to go with your cardio workout.
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
The Beach to Chowder Run/Walk in June in Long Beach attracts hundreds.
BOWLING There is only one location on the Peninsula for the avid bowler: Hilltop Bowl, off U.S. 101 across from Black Lake in Ilwaco. Call 642-4440 for price schedule and availability of lanes. SOFTBALL Softball fields are at Ilwaco City Park, Culbertson Park in Long Beach, Long Beach School, Chinook School and across the street from the Ocean Park School. The area’s Little League baseball field is adjacent to the Long Beach Fire Hall at North Seventh in Long Beach. CANOEING and KAYAKING The lakes of the Peninsula and inland waters of Willapa Bay offer many brilliant opportunities for canoeing and kayaking, with access available from a number of state and local parks, including at Loomis and Black lakes. Caution is required since weather can change with little warning and strong tides have been known to pull boats out to sea. BICYCLING The Peninsula has many trails for bicycling enthusiasts, including Long Beach’s wonderful paved trail through the ocean dunes, stretching north and south of the boardwalk. Some other options include Cape Disappointment and North Head roads, Sandridge Road to Ocean Park, the quiet back streets of Oysterville and Nahcotta, and Parpala Road in the Naselle area. GOLF LONG BEACH: Peninsula Golf Course is located one mile north of the stoplight in Long Beach. A putting green, brand-new
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clubhouse and a fantastic restaurant are added amenities for golfers. The dining room is open to everyone. Peninsula Golf Course is a nine-hole par-33 course that is 2,057 yards in length with three par-3 holes and six par-4 holes. The cozy course can be played in less than two hours and provides excellent conditions year around. The course is rated 60 for men and 64 for women and the slope rating is 90 for men and 100 for women. Peninsula Golf Course is located at 9604 Pacific Highway in Long Beach. Call 642-2828. SURFSIDE: Three miles north of the stoplight in Ocean Park is
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Surfside Golf Course. The course is 3,206 yards in length and is a nine-hole course that plays as a par 36. There are two par-3 holes, five par-4s, and two par-5 holes on the course. Surfside features three tees for men and two tees for women in an effort to accommodate golfers of any skill level. The course is rated 69 for men and 73 for women and has a slope of 122 for men and 125 for the ladies. A putting green, driving range, and club house all add to the golfer’s enjoyment. Tee times can be scheduled by calling 665-4148. Surfside Golf Course is located at 31508 J Place, Ocean Park. The course is open year around.
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Long Beach Rodeo excitement Come join all the cowboys and cowgirls at the Peninsula Saddle Club on July 28 and July 29 at 1 p.m. for the 67th annual Long Beach Rodeo. Events take place at 6407 Sandridge road on the beautiful Long Beach Peninsula (1 1/4 mile north of the Hwy 101 junction on Sandridge Road). This Northwest Professional Rodeo Association rodeo is one of the longest running rodeos on the Northwest coast. This year’s show is sure to be one of the finest, thanks to the collaborative talents of great rodeo professionals and a team of wonderful volunteers. The Peninsula Saddle Club hosted its first rodeo in 1951. At that time, the rodeo was held just north of downtown Long Beach (where the fire hall is currently located). The Saddle Club moved to the present location in 1957. The rodeo gets started with a fun parade through downtown Long Beach at 6:30 p.m. Friday, July 27. Start each day of the rodeo with a genuine
cowboy breakfast in the clubhouse, from 7 a.m. until 11 a.m. Let the crew in the “chuck wagon” dish you up some hotcakes, eggs, ham, or biscuits and gravy. Don’t forget your coffee! Bring the whole family for the fun of a community tradition. Enjoy the beer garden during the show, or wander the grounds and visit more than a dozen vendors serving up treats or selling their wares. And, don’t forget the lunch concessions in the clubhouse where the crew will dish up burgers, hot dogs and more. On Saturday, don’t run away after the show. That’s when they start family night. Remember that this is a two-day event. They do it all over again on Sunday. Come out again for a cowboy breakfast and watch the slack races (overfill contestants run their performances). Presale tickets (50 cent discount) can be found at any of the three Peninsula pharmacies, located at the light in Ilwaco, Long Beach and Ocean Park. See you at the rodeo!
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DAMIAN MULINIX photo
The Long Beach Rodeo attracts professional competitors from throughout the region.
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Our salt-water fishing is world famous Nothing compares to the exhilaration of boating over waters where the Columbia River, having reached journey’s end, rushes into the Pacific Ocean. Add the thrill of catching large game fish and the experience will be imprinted in memory forever. Fortunately, these excursions are available to anyone, thanks to charter boats berthed at the Port of Ilwaco. Charters provide outings ranging from sightseeing to bottom- and deep-sea fishing. Everything is provided except personal clothing and favorite refreshments. Many anglers also fish from private boats, a great option if you’re prepared for the conditions. The view of the land from the seaward side — lighthouses, Astoria, Saddle Mountain and Tillamook Head — is often breathtaking. Crossing the bar, where river and ocean meet, is an exciting time as the skipper skillfully maneuvers the boat through often-turbulent waters to reach open sea. Sea lions bask on jetty rocks. Seals’ heads pop out of the water here and there, and seagulls fly overhead hoping for a handout. How can you catch a trophy-sized salmon or sturgeon if you don’t have a boat? Simple, head for the south jetty at Cape Disappointment or east of the Chi-
RON MALAST photo
Some of the 25 charter boats operating out of the Port of Ilwaco.
nook tunnel and get ready for a fun day of sports fishing on a budget. You will need a stout 9- or 10-foot rod and a spinning reel large and strong enough to crank up at least 200 yards of 40-pound test line. A sliding swivel that can accommodate six to 16 ounces of pyramid sinker goes above the Dacron leader and a 2/0 or 3/0 hook is placed at the end of your gear. Bait of choice seems to be sand
shrimp, but anchovy or smelt or anything else a scavenging sturgeon will engulf will do the trick. Cast toward Astoria, sit back to enjoy the comfort of your own rock, and wait for a bite. But be careful when you rear back to set the hook, jetty rocks can be slippery. If you fish east of the Chinook tunnel, the highway is only inches from your back and trucks, cars, and RVs zip past at 50 miles per hour.
You don’t need to go to sea in order to ‘angle’ Landlubbers, get out your hooks, lines and sinkers because youʼre going to love fishing Pacific County. Steelhead and trout are abundant. While ocean fishing at the beach is nationally known, many forget there are numerous rivers, streams and lakes perfect for family outings. Between Ilwaco and Seaview lies Black Lake, for which offers trout fishing to all ages. The lake is stocked in April with large and smaller trout and open to public fishing at the Black Lake Fishing Derby. There is a picnic spot adjoining the lake. Fishermen can cast off the dock or walk the trail around the lakeʼs perimeter to find a personal fishing niche. Follow statewide rules for size and daily limit. Island Lake is a little more isolated and farther north on the Peninsula, but is perfect for canoeing and fishing. Travel
north on SR103, take a right on Cranberry Road, follow Cranberry Road and take a left onto Birch Lane until it curves to the right. There are no restroom facilities there and parking is limited. However, there is a space to load and unload canoes. Expect to get wet. Another popular fishing hole is Loomis Lake. Continue north on SR103 and just north of 188th Place on the right is the road for Loomis Lake. Traveling from the Peninsula, the Naselle River can be seen as you drive around the bay road, U.S. 101 and SR4, to the town of Naselle. In addition to trout fishing, salmon fishing is allowed in several areas of the Naselle River in season. The same is true on the Willapa River near Raymond and South Bend and the Nemah on the east side of Willapa Bay. Turn near Naselle Youth Camp to get to Radar Lakes.
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Beach trail is your path to personal discovery Following the general path taken by Capt. William Clark and his men during their initial 1805 visit to the beach, our amazing Discovery Trail links the towns of Long Beach, Seaview and Ilwaco. The trail connects all the way from the northern city limits of Long Beach to Beards Hollow in Cape Disappointment State Park. From Beards Hollow, a short unpaved portion of the trail goes uphill to a spectacular overlook above the ocean. Again paved, it winds its way through the forest to Ilwaco. You’ll experience your inner Dan’l Boone. This is the best ocean-bordering biking and hiking path on the West Coast. A recent round trip of almost eight miles took about an hour and 15 minutes with a generous stop at Lewis and Clark’s tree in nor th Long Beach. A sculpture of a whale skeleton similar to the one Lewis and Clark found more than 200 years ago, a monolith with an explorer standing
nearby, and dozens of informative signs add interest to the trail. A small wooden bridge, numerous twists and turns and the gently rolling dunes make for an interesting and comfortable ride. One suggestion is to head into the wind to start your trip and let the breeze push you along on the return trip. If eight miles and riding for over an hour is not in your plans, you may begin at either the Seaview or Long Beach approaches and cut your ride in half or in a third. The unpaved portion of the trail, from Beards Hollow to Ilwaco, includes some steep hills but is otherwise fine for fit walkers or mountain bikers. A wooden causeway leads over a pristine marsh just as the trail leaves the hollow. No motor vehicles are allowed on Discovery Trail. A midweek ride on an amazing pathway, with sun and surf to the west and having the experience almost exclusively to yourself, just can’t be topped.
Whale, ho! Visit in March to see giants “There’s one.” “Did you see that one?” “There’s another one.” “Look at those two out there by the green buoy!” These are exclamations that echo throughout the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center each spring. The voices are coming from kids, their parents and the excited volunteers who are doing most of the pointing. Out beyond the tip of the North Jetty can be seen a distant blow, then another, then another. Although whale watching from the vantage of the interpretive center doesn’t reward the whale watcher with close-up encounters, it is satisfying nonetheless. Just knowing those huge creatures are passing by the mouth of the Columbia River is inspiring. The sheer quantity is what most impresses — one day last year 178 whales were spotted in less than four hours! The arrival of the gray whales in late March and early April is a sign of spring that takes some effort to find. Mother whales sometimes lead their calves close to North Head to feed among the rocks, but visitors to the cape rarely have the opportunity to view them so close. Many visitors are not from the coast and watching for whales provides a great excuse for them to look long and hard out into the horizon, watching the dance of the distant waves. Whale watching can be rewarding even without ever seeing a whale, of course it’s nicer when you do. While the Lewis and Clark Expedition was in the ColumbiaPacific region, members of the group did their own kind of whale watching. One of the more interesting whale anecdotes from the Corps of Discovery’s stay involves Sacagawea’s de-
In the winter of 2011-12, an unprecedented number of blue whales — the largest animals to ever live — were sighted grazing above the deep Guide Canyon west of Long Beach Peninsulaʼs northern tip.
FILE PHOTO
A deceased humpback whale attracted curious onlookers near Long Beach. Itʼs more fun spotting living ones, and not difficult during migration seasons.
sire to see the ocean. It was early January 1806 and Capt. Clark had heard about a whale that had washed up on the shore. After sampling the meat, members of the expedition left Fort Clatsop in search of additional blubber and meat for both food and oil. Shortly after Clark and a few men had left to go see the whale, Sacagawea caught up with them and successfully pleaded to be allowed to join the tour. To maximize your own chances of seeing a whale, choose a day when the ocean is calm and winds are light. Early morning is best. Don’t forget foul-weather clothing and mud-worthy hiking boots, bottled water, binoculars and a camera. For more information, visit www.whalespoken.org.
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This is Washington’s best place to dig razor clams Peninsula people are passionate about razor clams. And with good reason as this is usually the best place in the state to stalk the wily bivalves. Although rarely hampered because of a marine micro-organism found in razor clams which can be harmful to humans, in recent years conditions have always been fine. Good clamming is usually available along the entire Peninsula. However, the largest and most plentiful razor clams are usually found from Oysterville apJack’s Country Store proach north to Leadbetter Point. As a general maintains the rule, clamming condiexcellent clam tions are so good here information website that people drive for hundreds of miles to partake www.razorclams.com in this delicious family fun. You must keep the first 15 clams you dig, regardless of size or condition. Over-digging, throwing clams back, digging in closed areas, or digging out of season can result in hefty fines. Visitors are encouraged to contact the Department of Fish and Wildlife at 360-586-6129 for information about upcoming seasons and regulations or visit the WDFW online at http://wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/shellfish.
CLAMMING 101: WHAT TO LOOK FOR: A “show” or clam hole results from a razor clam pulling in its siphon tube. A show in the damp sand can be as small as a quarter-inch in diameter or as large as a quarter, with bigger holes usually netting larger clams. Doughnuts are a sure sign of a clam and occur when the clam has purged and created a minivolcano around its hole. Often one can see a clam “necking” —and no, they are not kissing. When a wave retreats, the siphon tube is at the surface and creates a V effect in the out-going water. The clam may even “spit.” This super-purge can eject water as high as a foot or two. During rough surf conditions or when the weather is windy or rainy, the clam digger may have to stomp to induce a show.
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
Razor clamming on a beautiful autumn evening has to be one of the worldʼs most scenic recreational activities. Most people nowadays prefer to use clam “guns,” hollow tubes that are driven into the sand above an unsuspecting clam. But youʼll still find many who swear by a good old-fashioned narrow-bladed shovel.
Use a resounding march step, and go in a circle so you don’t have to back track. WHAT TO WEAR: Clothing can be anything from sandals and shorts to L.L. Bean’s finest apparel stuffed inside chest waders. The key is that it is easier to take clothes off than to drive back to the city for something warmer or drier. It is probably not a good idea to pin your clam license to your neoprene boots or to your hat if it’s windy. When one digs in the late afternoon, it is also best to have a lantern so you are prepared if it gets dark. The old-fashioned gas lanterns are best, but even a flashlight is better than nothing. WHEN TO DIG: At least two hours before low tide.
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
Your kids will treasure forever their memories of clamming with you at the beach. Keep a close eye on them, though — the surf can be rough.
WHAT TO USE: To shovel or not to shovel, that is the question, whether it is nobler to use a clam gun or not — you decide. Shakespeare would likely use a gun as he was not an experienced digger. If you use a gun, make sure someone helps you sight it in beforehand to make sure you’re digging straight down. When using a shovel, fewer scoops lead to fewer broken shells, but remember why they call them razor clams. The shells are very sharp and can easily cut fingers. Align your gun directly over the hole or just a tad toward the ocean, as razor clams tend to angle toward the sea as they head
down. Use the same strategy when digging. When you get a clam, it is best to put your catch in a plastic gallon jug with an opening cut large enough to stuff a six-inch beauty in the top. Clam nets allow the sand to drop off the mollusks, but smaller ones can easily slip through, causing wastage and making for a frustrating night for the digger who thinks he has his limit only to find an empty net. A belt to hold the container in place frees your hands for digging. After getting your limit of the first 15 clams you dig, fill your bucket with salt water. On the trip home your clams will purge much of the sand from their siphon tubes for you. HOW TO CLEAN YOUR CLAMS: Quickly dipping the freshly dug razor clams in boiling water allows you to easily and safely remove the shells. Snip off the end of the siphon tube (clam necks make an excellent and durable bait for surf perch), and then cut the clam open by following along the zipper, and then through both of the siphon tubes. Finally, cut the boot open and everything that looks dark and yucky is dark and yucky, so remove it along with any grains of sand that remain. If you don’t feel like cleaning your own, watch for signs — a number of people offer inexpensive cleaning services, up and down the Peninsula. CHILL: Oh yes, don’t forget to refrigerate your clams. Keep them fresh, as they are now ready to be prepared in your favorite recipes.
Discovery Coast 2012 | 15
Take a wildlife safari right here in South Pacific County chomping rosebushes wherever they go. Keep an eye out for them along highways at dusk, and slow down. They are best seen in the spring and early summer, when newborn fawns are often in tow. The toy-like fawns are adorable, but naïve about cars, so please give them plenty of room and time to keep up with their moms. GEESE AND DUCKS: Waterfowl in a myriad of colors can also be seen near the refuge headquarters.
Imagine sitting at your breakfast table and glancing up to see a mama black bear and her tiny cubs walk by. Off in the distance, a bald eagle boldly sails above seaside cliffs, king of the sky. You hear the barking sea lions down at the port. On your way to Jazz & Oysters in Oysterville, a tame deer looks up as you slow to let an otter cross the street.
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
This might all sound like a 1950s-era Disney nature movie, but it’s well within the realm of possibility here on Washington’s Discovery Coast. When it comes to watching wildlife, the Discovery Coast is the place to be, with more bald eagles than anywhere south of Alaska, and more pelagic and coastal seabirds than anywhere else on the West Coast.
DMITRY AZOVTSEV photo
Seals and otters, huge herds of deer and elk, migrating and resident songbirds and waterfowl all can be observed in numbers that will amaze the whole family. It’s time to discover just where these beauties can be seen! EAGLES, HAWKS AND FALCONS: Peregrine falcons are frequently observed swooping down from tree top perches as they intercept prey in Leadbetter Point State Park. Bald eagles and other birds of prey are often spotted anywhere in the vicinity of Willapa Bay and the Columbia River. They are particularly obvious along U.S. Highway 101 between the Astoria Bridge and Ilwaco, swooping low over passing vehi-
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
An osprey angrily chases away a crow that was trying to get into the ospreyʼs nest. Such true-life dramas are a cherished part of life here on the outer coast.
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
16 | Discovery Coast 2012
cles. Osprey, also known as sea eagles, build nests in old snags throughout the area. HERONS: Living here on the Discovery Coast we are fortunate indeed to have a very large and healthy population of great blue herons. They are quite common around the margins of Willapa Bay, and a late afternoon 20-minute drive along the east side of the bay heading out towards the Willapa Bay National Wildlife Refuge Station will usually yield a bonanza of herons silhouetted against the golden sky of sunset on the bay. The Chinook River estuary between Chinook and Ilwaco is another likely location for herons, renowned for their silent zen-like concentration as they await minnows and salmon smolts. PELICANS: Pelicans, cormorants, Caspian terns, kingfishers and other bird species all gather in great
numbers along the Columbia River estuary east of Ilwaco, through Chinook and on past the Dismal Nitch unit of Lewis and Clark National Park. Biologists often station themselves at either Cape Disappointment or North Head lighthouses to conduct population surveys of the vast numbers of marine birds and mammals cruising the Columbia River’s massive plume of nutrient-rich sediment. SWANS: Trumpeter and tundra swans can often be observed in Peninsula lakes, especially Black Lake near Ilwaco and Brisco Lake north of Long Beach. Their return to our area each year is an eagerly awaited seasonal signal, with word being spread via social networks and the media. There is a trumpeter swan preserve at Hine’s Marsh in the Oysterville area, but it is not conducive to easy observation.
ELK: For something a bit larger, how about some elk watching? A short drive out to the Bear River area at the south end of Willapa National Wildlife Refuge situated on the east side of the bay is a good place to start. Drive north on U.S. Highway 101 toward South Bend and watch for elk in the fields just east of the highway after it reaches the shore of Willapa Bay. Rangers and refuge staff are helpful and well informed about what kind of wildlife can be seen on any particular day. When it comes to elk, another good place to look for a herd is just a few hundred yards away on the grassy banks of Long Island, just across the highway from the refuge headquarters. Elk also can often be spotted near the Naselle River. BLACK-TAILED DEER: Deer are almost too common to notice on the Peninsula and the mainland,
Casual sightings of dozens of species of ducks are quite common. Wood ducks are a particular favorite among area residents, many of whom build nesting boxes for them. RIVER OTTERS: If it’s something altogether different you’re looking for, how about putting the binocs to some river otters? They can often be seen swimming and frolicking in the canals and lakes in the center of the community of Surfside just west of Oysterville, or even in Black Lake or small creeks around Ilwaco. The wildlife refuge has many otters that hunt in the sloughs and marshes on the south end of the bay. If you’re determined to see otters, perhaps your best bet it to slather on some insect repellent, grab a lawn chair and a good book, and plant yourself quietly along one of Willapa’s south sloughs either early or late in the day. They are curious and KEVIN HEIMBIGNER photo
Contributed photo
Peninsula homeowners heard a ruckus. It seems a pair of “200-pound bears, one brown and one black” had decided to enjoy the water on an uncommonly warm November day.
joyful animals, and if you’re reasonably patient and respectful, they’ll come check you out. SEALS AND SEA LIONS: These marine mammals can often be spotted from the North Jetty inside Cape Disappointment State Park. They’ve even been known to wander around on dry land in residential areas of the Peninsula. Look for them surfing among the waves at Benson Beach, the most southerly of the Peninsula’s many miles of glorious sand. Sea lions, which are considered a big nuisance by most fishermen, are nevertheless fun to see. Look for them lounging on area buoys and quiet shorelines, somewhat resembling Elvis in his latter days. BEARS: The Peninsula and Long Island are said to have among the greatest concentrations of black bears in the nation. Although shy, they sometimes may be spotted, particularly in the spring when they forage for food near human dwellings until the berries ripen. Local bear don’t really hibernate, but essentially hang out in dry hollows in the hills when food gets especially scarce in the mid-winter. Leadbetter, Cape D, and the wildlife refuge units on the south end of Willapa Bay are all good places to see bear. Definitely do not feed them — it’s dangerous for both you and the bear. There have been no serious bear attacks in Pacific County, but even our gentle bears are extremely dangerous wild animals. If you think you will be out in bear country, buy and carry bear-repellent pepper spray, available locally at the Dennis Company. In the unlikely event a black bear physically attacks you, fight back aggressively using your hands, feet, legs, and any object you can reach. Aim for the eyes or spray bear spray into the bear’s face.
OTHER CRITTERS: Raccoons, possums, ground squirrels, porcupines, bats, coyotes, beaver, muskrats, red-legged frogs, cute buy noisy tree frogs and nonvenomous garter snakes are all quite common here. They’re all reasonably polite neighbors but should always be left alone. Make sure to keep pets on leashes, both to keep them from harming wildlife and to keep them from a close encounter with something deceptively tough. There aren’t many dogs that will come out the winner in a fight with a coyote or porcupine. Cape Disappointment State Park enforced a strict leash policy. As elsewhere in Washington and Oregon, cougars are increasing in numbers following the effective end of most hunting. They are more rumored than seen on the Peninsula, but are certainly present on the mainland of the county. There’s lots of wildlife waiting to be seen in and around the Long Beach Peninsula. Hope to see you out there!
DEBRA HEIMBIGNER photo
Discovery Coast 2012 | 17
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Ocean Park: The essence of friendly seashore life
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
Okieʼs Thriftwayʼs shopping-cart drill team is one of the most popular attractions at Ocean Parkʼs annual July 4 Parade, one of many countless events throughout the year.
For a trip that bypasses crowded highways and returns your soul to a safer, more leisurely time, follow U.S. Highway 101 toward Washington state’s southern-most peninsula. Once there, head north on State Route 103 toward Ocean Park — a visitor-friendly area located at the “heart” of Washington’s most famous beach. If you are looking for a weekend or longer close to nature, activities that the entire family will never forget, festivals or events nearly every weekend of the year, beautiful scenery, historic landmarks, walking trails and seafood that can’t get any fresher, then treat yourself to the Ocean Park area. Please visit the Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce website “Directory” page and look under “All Members” for web page listings for each of many friendly local businesses. The address is http://opwa.com. On the way north on State Route 103, you’ll pass by many areas worth exploring: Loomis Lake State Park; Loomis Lake fishing area; and the Klipsan Beach approach with its historic Coast Guard Life Saving Station, are some examples. A red flashing light marks the center of Ocean Park. Everything here is located “from the light.” In
fact, they have only recently started using house numbers. Don’t worry about getting lost. There are plenty of places to get information. The Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce Office is two blocks east from “the light” on Bay Avenue and every business will gladly provide directions to points of interest. Scout out the many businesses that dot the road from Long Beach to Ocean Park and on to Oysterville. The variety is surprising. Ocean Park is home to two of the largest grocery stores on the Peninsula, a hardware store and a pharmacy. There are galleries, gift shops, a bookstore, restaurants and lodging choices that include motels, cabins, historic bed and breakfasts, vacation rental homes, RV spaces and camping. You will find an opportunity to relax in Ocean Park. Have an espresso or lunch at the beach approach. Relax with a glass of wine and a sunset. Enjoy walking around town visiting artists, jewelers and crafters in their studios and shops. There are gift stores and a used bookstore carrying current and nostalgic items to browse. Tame your hunger at ice cream parlors, restaurants and watering holes. Jack’s Country Store is one of the prime places to get lost in.
Tom or any employees of Jack’s Store will help you find your way. One of the many reasons to linger in these businesses is that some of the better storytellers can be found in them. The main attraction, and the reason most people come here, is the shore. The ocean is just a short
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
Surf perch fishing is one of many exciting outdoors activities available in the Ocean Park area.
settlements around the bay. Oysterwalk west of “the light.” Here you ville soon dominated the area. The are in the center of a grand beach raucous nature of the town and its that stretches more than 10 miles vicinity convinced some that more in each direction. Walk along the uplifting environs would be desirbroad expanse of sand and stop to able. create a driftwood sculpture or Ocean Park was conceived as a build a sandcastle. Fly a kite or fish for surfperch. Watch a flock of summer camp for religious meetings. Currently open to the public, sea birds in synchronous flight or Ocean Park Resort started as a spy a hawk in search of prey. Methodist Church campground in The beach is designated a state 1906 and celebrated a century of highway and automobiles can be operation three years ago. By the driven on it. If you have a disabled 1890s the land of Ocean Park was friend or an aging relative, this is platted and sold. one of the few opportunities where The Camping Association eventhey can be transported to the tually moved to an 80-acre plat, 25 ocean’s edge for a real seashore blocks north of “the light.” It is now experience. known as the Ocean Park Retreat Couples and families enjoy the Center and United Methodist Camp. various events that Peninsula comThere are many older residences munities host. The Garlic Festival, that date back to the late 1800s in held the third weekend in June, rejoices in the cloves that form the foundation for oodles of good food and good fun. The Old Fashioned Fourth of July Parade provides a rollicking family event that harkens back to family picnics and memorable experiences. The weekend after Labor Day hums and roars with activity. The whole Peninsula is filled with custom cars participating in the Rod Run to the End of the World. The event begins with early registration on Friday afternoon, a slow drag on Friday night and climaxes with the car show on Saturday. Over 1,000 classic cars are on display. Throngs of visitors pour over the fit and CATE GABLE photo finish of every one. A rhododendron garden rejoices in the There is, of course, Peninsulaʼs benign climate. The annual Music in ample time to the Gardens tour is a chance to see it all — July exchange stories 21 this year. about your favorite Ocean Park. Much of the lumber, in car from an earlier time. fact entire buildings, were barged The Peninsula is rich in history. over from South Bend and the The Chinook people, who were skillful traders and excellent seamen, smaller villages on the east side of the bay and Long Island. Others first occupied the whole Peninsula were built from shipwrecks and area. After European seafarers distheir cargoes that washed up on the covered the area, a fur trade arose. beach. A brochure for a walking Later, pioneers arrived at the mouth tour of these homes is available on of the Columbia River and by the the Internet (www.opwa.com) and 1830s an oyster trade began in the at the Ocean Park Area Chamber of Willapa Bay. Settlers soon followed. Commerce office. By 1850 there were permanent
Discovery Coast 2012 | 19
Oyster lovers must make a pilgrimage to old Nahcotta
KEVIN HEIMBIGNER photo
The Port of Peninsula in Nahcotta is tucked inside Willapa Bay just east of Ocean Park. In fact, Nahcotta and Ocean Park meld into one town for visitors to our area, even though residents loyally proclaim their allegiance to one place or the other. Nahcotta is still very much a working town in many respects, the sort of place that would seem familiar and comfortable on Cape Cod or in Maine. It is a beautiful, character-filled place of workboats, oyster shells and the bayʼs pearly blue light. Youʼll love it.
Nahcotta is a great place to experience the traditions of Willapa Bay, centered on oysters, clamming and other pure and healthy “fishy” business. A stroll around Nahcotta, looking at the boats and oyster processing equipment, is a great appetizer before sampling some fresh local seafood. Wandering around Nahcotta these days, one finds a tiny village rich in tradition and history, but little evidence of the battles that nearly tore the community in half more than a century ago. If the birth of Nahcotta came about with its platting and the struggle surrounding it in 1889, its conception may have taken place decades before when bands of Chinook Indians — among them Chief Nahcati, for whom the village was named — lived along the western shore of what was then Shoalwater Bay. Nahcati’s camp was said to have been nestled near Paul’s Slough just south of the present Nahcotta mooring basin. Here the Indians found an abundance of fresh water, dry land, ample clams, oysters and salmon from the Shoalwater, and wild game in the forests. The settlements were well out of reach of the cold winter winds off the Pacific and far from the noise of pounding surf. By 1888, the first five miles of narrowgauge railroad was laid northward from the docks at Ilwaco, and by 1889 it reached Nah-
cotta. Here the tracks turned directly east and shot out over the bayshore on pilings to the deep Shoalwater channel, separating the community north from south. Ilwaco cannery owner B.A. Seaborg platted the town of Sealand on the north side of the tracks, while raiload owner Lewis Loomis took ownership of the Nahcotta townsite to the south. Both worked hard to reach their goals. The Sealand Hotal and the first post office rose on the north side, a general store and another hotel on the south. In fact, the town had almost two of everything — two hotels, two saloons, two meat markets — and only Loomis and Seaborg seemed to care. Despite the dispute between the two men, the community as a whole prospered. Oysters and other seafood was loaded on trains for shipment to Ilwaco, from where it was forwarded to San Francisco and other points to the south. Loomis won an eventual lawsuit, but the town’s luck was about to run out — for a few decades at least. In 1915, a chimney fire got out of hand and a strong southeast wind quickly spread the blaze throughout the business district. From that point on, the center of business on the Peninsula’s north end shifted largely to Ocean Park, Nahcotta’s other sister village to the west.
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Willapa Bay Interpretive Center celebrates oystering history “The Willapa Bay Interpretive Center is the Pearl of the Peninsula,” Nahcotta Port Manager Mary DeLong says of the tiny museum that arguably has the most amazing view of any museum in the state. “The museum will eventually be at the end of the Beach to Bay Trail. This is a great place for local people to come and see Willapa Bay first hand. Classes and family reunions are welcome,” DeLong said. The museum can be reached at 665-4547. The bay’s tide is about an hour later than the ocean’s. The museum is about the size of the oyster station houses that sat atop pilings and were common places of shelter in Willapa Bay half a century ago. The Interpretive Center houses an old boat called a bateau that plied the bay in search of oysters. The museum also features tongs, bushel baskets, and a mural of Willapa Bay painted by Nancy Lloyd, local historian. Videos describe the oyster industry and the pristine Bay and the view is a spectacular 360-degree sight of Long Island, Port of Peninsula, the aging Ark Restaurant, and a working oyster company. A series of placards explains the history of the bay. Willapa Bay was discovered by the intrepid John Meares in 1788. His sailing ship traversed the shallows at the entrance and he called it Shoalwater Bay because of
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his experience in making his way through the treacherous waters. Robert Gray visited in 1792, exactly 300 years after Christopher Columbus “sailed the ocean blue” on the Atlantic side of the United States. In 1811 Astoria was founded and in the 1840s the area surrounding Willapa Bay began to be settled by white men. The 1849 Gold Rush in California spawned a demand for oysters as a delicacy the lucky miners could afford and in 1851 the first ship carrying native oysters left Willapa Bay bound for San Francisco. In 1854 Oysterville was founded and in 1856 the lighthouse at Cape Disappointment was built to help mariners safely find the entrance to the Columbia River. In 1857 James Swan wrote “Northwest Coast, Three Years on Shoalwater Bay” to document the times more than a century and a half ago. By 1880 the native oysters were in decline even as South Bend and Nahcotta were coming into existence in 1889. That year the Ilwaco Railroad and Navigation Company completed the line from the river to the bay and in 1891 Washington legislators set aside the first oyster reserves on Willapa Bay. In 1896 eastern oysters were introduced, but a hard winter in 1919 wiped out the crop. In 1924 Japanese oysters were brought to Willapa Bay and they have survived from that time on. In 1936 a particularly large “natural set” occurred and the spectacular crop of oysters continued through World War II, providing the troops with a nice taste of home. In the 1970s oyster hatcheries helped to augment the crop of oysters and in the 1990s Washington became the number one state in producing oysters. Over half of the state’s oyster production still comes from Willapa Bay. Lloyd’s mural covers the entire west wall of the museum and it shows interesting places on Willapa Bay, Long Island, and the “North Beach” Peninsula. The view from the north and south windows is a spectacular view of the tide as it ebbs and flows and is also a favorite place for birders to see the diverse population of birds on the bay. The Willapa Bay Interpretive Center is open by
appointment by calling 665-4547 and is open Friday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. from Memorial Day through Labor Day weekends.
The museum is located at 273rd and Sandridge. The replica of an oyster station house is a great place for a family to enjoy a picnic on the deck, learn of the history of Willapa
IN V E K IB E H IG MN Rh E tp o o
The colorful and adventurous past of the oyster industry is honored in Nahcottaʼs small but stylish waterfront museum.
Our oysters were Mark Twain’s favorites Mark Twain’s adoration for Willapa Baygrown Olys is profiled in Smithsonian magazine. In May 1864, Twain bailed out of the gold fields of Washoe County, Nev., taking up residence at San Francisco’s Occidental Hotel, a place he called “Heaven on the half shell.” The 28-year-old reporter on his way to celebrity made $35 a week and blew it all on a fancy room and the oyster buffet. For our 19th century ancestors, oysters were hamburgers, tacos and pizza all conveniently pre-packaged in durable single-serving containers. They were fast food, but delicious and nutritious. Along with other new arrivals in the city by the bay, Twain “developed a taste for the tiny, coppery
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Olympias. The Oly … was the classic gold rush oyster, a staple of celebrations and everyday meals in San Francisco restaurants and oyster saloons. Olys appeared in oyster soup and stew, stuffed into wild poultry and, of course, raw,” according to Smithsonian writer Andrew Beahrs. Ninety percent of gold rush oysters came from Shoalwater/Willapa Bay in Pacific County. Although the same species was available in smaller quantities from Tomales Bay, Calif., those from Washington were larger and milder-tasting, according to a 1963 state publication, “The California Oyster Industry.” It took around six days to reach San Francisco from Oysterville or Bruceport by sailing ship. Several vessels did nothing but service the industry by hauling 100-pound sacks or 32pound baskets. On arrival, some were immediately sold with at least a five-to-one mark-up, but a substantial part of each cargo was laid out in beds in San Francisco Bay to fatten and stay fresh until needed. An especially drunk miner might pay as much as $1 per oyster in 1850, the equivalent of at least $30 today. By the end of the 1850s, Shoalwater was shipping about 35,000 baskets a year — more than 1.1 million pounds. With completion of the Union Pacific trans-continental railroad in 1869, California’s loyalties swiftly shifted to Eastern oysters. This is probably just as well, since Washington state’s native stocks had virtually been strip-mined. Willapa oysterman Warren Cowell keeps our local Oly oyster tradition alive, carefully nurturing a 60-acre bed.
Discovery Coast 2012 | 21
Historic and lovely Oysterville is a ‘Shangri-La’ on the bay The fictional Shangri-La is an idyllic mountain valley where life is frozen in time and protected from the rough changes occurring elsewhere in the world. Real-life Oysterville may not be so lucky as to completely escape the ravages of time and politics, but strolling around it will restore your faith that a kind of immortal grace is possible. The 80-acre Oysterville National Historic District and the areas immediately adjacent to it are the heart of Oysterville. With Willapa Bay as its backdrop, the historic district feels like a movie back lot version of a 19th century coastal community. In fact, some structures actually are from the 19th century. Eight houses, a church, the Oysterville cannery and a one-room schoolhouse are on the National Register of Historic Places. Though Oysterville is a ghost town, it has life. Oysterville’s post office is the oldest continuously operating post office in Washington state. The Oysterville Store sells groceries, souvenirs and gifts and is open year round. Oysterville Sea Farms sells seafood from its farms and other items as well. The Oysterville Church is open everyday of the year. The Oysterville cannery and all eight of the houses listed on the National Register of Historic Places create almost constant activity as they are maintained and repaired by their private owners. Similar efforts are made by non-profit organizations to maintain and repair
the church and one-room schoolhouse. The Oysterville Church Summer Vespers are presented at 3 p.m. every Sunday from Father’s Day through Labor Day. The services are open to everyone. The Jazz and Oyster festival is set for Aug. 19 and features great Northwest jazz being played on the lawn of the Oysterville School. Proceeds from the Jazz and Oyster festival help support the Water Music Festival. The Water Music Festival’s most popular concerts are the Oysterville church concerts, held in late October. Old for a West Coast town, Oysterville is brand new in geographic terms. Oysterville could be the only place in the United States that has always had human occupants. Native American people probably settled Oysterville as soon as it was created. Chinook peoples came to the area that is Oysterville at seasonal intervals for untold centuries to harvest its bountiful oyster beds. Oysterville was first settled in 1841 by John Douglas, who married a local Chinook woman. It was the California Gold Rush of 1849 that drew significant numbers of settlers of European descent to Oysterville. Gold miners loved to spend their gold on Willapa Bay oysters. Settlers and Chinook Peoples gladly filled schooners with oysters to be shipped to San Francisco. By 1854, a community of several hundred, called Oyster Beach, existed here. On April 12, 1854, I.A. Clark filed a 161-acre land claim that encompassed all of what is now the
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INVOLVED IN OUR COMMUNITY -President of the Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce -Chairman of the 31st Annual NW Garlic Festival Planning Committee -Serving on the “Lower Columbia Association of Realtors” Board of Directors
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
Even the very young get into the good-time grooves of Jazz and Oysters, one of our areaʼs coolest events.
Oysterville National Historic District. It was on Aug. 5, 1854, that community leaders decided that Oysterville was a better name than Oyster Beach or Shell Beach to represent their town, which grew to a population was about 800. Like all extraction businesses, the native oyster business came to an end. Hotels, saloons and a college all disappeared as people left. Eventually, even the county seat was removed
to South Bend on the east side of the bay. Oysterville exists primarily as a state of mind. A walk through Oysterville can reveal the supremacy of nature; evoking connections to generations goneby, while subtly forecasting the folly of generations present and future. Visitors often find themselves seeking sanctuary in the peace and insight they discovered here, long after they have left Oysterville.
North-end secret: Surfside Surfside — you won’t find it mentioned on many maps, and Surfsiders like it that way. When you drive up north of Ocean Park, you’re passing into a well-kept secret, quite possibly Pacific County’s biggest town in the summertime. Founded in the late 1960s, Surfside is a well-organized community governed not by a city council but by a homeowners’ association. Well-designed and landscaped homes line the shore and rolling hillsides. While many Surfsiders are retired, most haven’t slowed down much. It’s a very active and dynamic community. It has a great golf course and an active schedule of activities for residents and guests. For visitors curious about this hidden paradise, it’s easy to combine a visit with a stop in historic Oysterville, which is located only about a mile away to the east on the bay shore via Oysterville Road.
RUTH ANN HOCKING MANAGING BROKER
REALTY Ocean Park Office 25810 Vernon Avenue Toll Free (800) 854-0032 • Office 360-665-4141 Cell (360) 783-2831 gmcgrew@lighthouseproperty.com www.lighthouseproperty.com 22 | Discovery Coast 2012
Toll Free 800-854-0032 Office 360-665-4141 Cell 360-431-0660 web: lighthouseproperty.com email: rahocking@lighthouseproperty.com
REALTY
Ocean Park Office 25810 Vernon Avenue P.O. Box 431 • Ocean Park, WA 98640
Beach Barons ready for Rod Run’s annual rev-up September is synonymous with the Rod Run and the 2012 edition promises to be better than ever as about 1,000 vintage automobiles will again congregate at Wilson Field east of Ocean Park for the car show the Beach Barons started nearly three decades ago. Registration begins Friday, Sept. 7 at 9 a.m., and continues throughout the weekend for cars 1982 and earlier. Gates open at 8 a.m. Saturday, Sept. 8 for the general public to view the show and shine.
On Friday, plan to attend the fun Slow Drags at the Port of Ilwaco, which start at 4 p.m. The Beach Barons will again be selling Rod Run Tshirts, sweatshirts and hats to
BONNI HILDERMAN photos
Visiting with old and new friends is a key part of the annual Rod Run.
the sounds of DJ music from the ‘50s and ‘60s. Saturday will feature a musical performance by the Fabulous Farelanes, a model car show and a pinewood derby. Trophy judging will conclude at 2 p.m. Saturday. At 4:30 p.m., show participants will cruise north to Oysterville, over to Surfside and then south toward Long Beach. People would be welladvised to plan their personal driving needs around sharing the road with the vintage vehicles Saturday afternoon and evening. On Sunday, Sept. 9, gates will open at 8 a.m. with a t re a sure hunt st a rt i ng a t 9 a.m. DJs will be spinning great tunes, and trophies will be presented at 2 p.m. Spectator gate fees are $5 per person. Active duty service members with proper ID are admitted for no charge. Parking will be available at a few properties nearby. More information on the Beach Barons and the Rod Run is available on the club’s website: www.beachbarons.com, or by calling 360-665-3565.
2011 Rod Run Top Trophy Winners Trophy Sponsor Beach Barons Choice Participantʼs Choice Peopleʼs Choice Beach Baron Host Car Hard Luck Award Long Distance Truman King Memorial PC Sheriff Award Washington State Patrol
Name Dave & Debbie Peterson Larry & Cindy Anderson Brian Leetch Gene & Nicki Andrews Leon & Lucille Graham Merv & Kay Cray Ron & Anna Jones John & Stefanie Youman Joe & Gloria White
ci’s n a N a& l l e m Ji
Nanci Main and Jimella Lucas, owner/chefs of the legendary Ark Restaurant for 25 years, invite you to visit them at their much acclaimed Market Cafe in Klipsan Beach, Washington. • Casual Relaxed Dining • Fresh Seafood Market • Wines & Deli
Where the Locals Go
360-665-4847 • 21712 Pacific Way eat@jimellaandnancis.com jimellaandnancis.com
Make/Model 1969 Dodge Charger 1932 Ford 3-Window 1941 Willys Coupe 1935 Chevy Sedan 1954 Chevy 2-Dr Post 1969 Chevy Camaro 1950 Ford Custom Coupe 1959 Cadillac Deville 1949 Studebaker Champion
DAMIAN MULINIX photo
The popular Rod Run street cruise returned in 2011 and will continue this September, with participants showing off their classic cars and trucks to the cheers of spectators up and down the Peninsula on Saturday afternoon and night.
JOANNE JENSON,
Broker/Realtor
I love working with buyers and sellers, and have been in the Sales and Service industry for 45 years. I have owned/ operated four small businesses in my career, and have been with Lighthouse Realty for over 14 years. Let me help you locate that special property!
REALTY Ocean Park Office 25810 Vernon Avenue Home 360-665-2812 • Office 360-665-4141 Cell (360) 749-1196 jjenson@lighthouseproperty.com www.lighthouseproperty.com Discovery Coast 2012 | 23
Coastal arts come alive thanks to local volunteers
OCEAN PARK — Treasurer Nancy Beliveau is the lone 2011 PAA board member to remain in her position for year 2012. Joining her are a group of artists, many of whom held board positions in previous years, ready to help steer the creative forces generated by the dynamic and diverse group of talented people who comprise the membership of Peninsula Arts Association. When asked why she decided to stay on as treasurer, Beliveau chuckled, “Pure determination. After a year of balancing the books, it’s all starting to make sense to me. I want to get even better at the job and do all I can to make sure PAA continues to grow and remains successful.” Working with Beliveau are: Bonnie Lou Cozby as president, Michael Cox as vice president, Judy Cox as recording secretary and Arlene Jayne as corresponding secretary. In addition, PAA has added three directors to the executive board roster: Myrna Kay Thompson, Vickie Branch and Veronica Frink. This addition brings PAA completely into compliance with its by-laws. “The group has been working hard over the last five years to get all their ducks in a row,” said Cozby, who served as president over three of those five years. “Since 1970, when the association was first formed in Ocean Park, the goal has been to create a community art center on the Peninsula. We can almost see it happen-
Peninsula Arts Association also funds an Art ing… our organization is in place, we have a Enrichment Program. Headed by Education Listrong record of participation and proven ecoaison Barbara Lester, the program provides nomic stability and are preparing to enter the fully supplied art boxes with comprehensive world of grants, patrons, sponsorships and lesson plans for Ocean Beach School District fundraising. It’s a very exciting time.” teachers to PAA is a check out very active on a rotatgroup, proing basis. It ducing four also prolarge art vides supevents anplies for art nually: The projects Spring and such as the Fall art tree ornashows, the ments creSummer Art ated by Festival (all Ocean Park three held Elementary this year at students for the World the commuKite Museum) and PAA coordinates art events including its popular annual Spring Art Show. nity Christ“She is my heart,” said Cynthia Pride of her 2012 Peoplesʼ Choice winthe Penin- ning painting Sleeping Beauty, done from an older photograph of her mas tree and takesula-wide daughter at the seashore. away ornaStudio ments for the Santa’s Workshop gathering Tour. It also continues the tradition of the July sponsored by the Ocean Park Area Chamber Starving Artist Sale. This long held event was and held at the Ocean Park Fire Station. first created to help fund PAA’s High School Each June brings the Garlic Festival, with Graduate Scholarship. Due to the fantastic barPAA members participating in a cluster of art gains to be had, the sale has become a favorite tents. In recent years, PAA has run the Garlic of locals and visitors alike. In addition to the annual scholarship award, Poster Contest.
Opal Art in Ocean Park Ocean Aire RV Park is the Home of Opal Art, 25918 R Street in Ocean Park, WA. When you are in Ocean Park be sure to drop in and see our wonderfully special selection of Opal earrings, pendants and rings set in Sterling Silver by J.R. Opals show an everchanging dancing fire depending on light intensity.
Opal Art can be found in the Office of Ocean Aire RV Park, where we invite you to check out our clean and friendly park. Located in Downtown Ocean Park– we are just blocks from restaurants, clubs, stores and of course the mighty Pacific Ocean.
Our 2012 Rates are reasonably priced and we currently have spaces for over-niters, 2 spaces for full-time living and 2 for annual usage.
Call Karen for park info at 360-665-4027 or J.R. at 360-244-1970 if a private showing at Opal Art is requested.
Located behind Thriftway grocery at 25918 R Street, Ocean Park, WA • oceanair@willapabay.org
24 | Discovery Coast 2012
Peninsula Arts Association Summer & Winter
2012 July 7 Starving Artists Sale Peninsula Senior Center
July 20 to 22 Summer Art Festival World Kite Museum
October 5 - 8 42nd Fall Art Show World Kite Museum
November 23 & 24 PAA Studio Tour Peninsula Wide!
www.beachartist.org
January and February are membership renewal and application months. The PAA year runs January to January and it is best to join early in order to receive all newsletters and event participation notices. Membership is $20 a year for individuals. Student memberships are free but do require the application to be filled out. Meetings start with business, include a break for refreshments and usually end with a relaxed, hands-on art project. It is a great way to meet fellow artists. Always open to the public, meetings are a perfect opportunity to renew or begin membership and learn about PAA. Applications are also available online at www.beachartist.org or call President Bonnie Cozby at 665-6041. “We are getting ready for a wonderful year’” said Cozby. “Our website is being given a whole new look thanks to webmaster Modi Cozby, the board is full of enthusiasm ... As a board, we are looking forward to expanding our community group alliances and creating a viable sponsor and patron program. Plus, I know the artists are gearing up to bring their best work out … they always do!” For more information about Peninsula Arts Association visit their website www.beachartist.org or check them out on Facebook. Peninsula Arts Association is Washington state, non-profit 501 (c)(3) organization.
Harbor View Motel It’s time to unwind. Free Wi-Fi ~ Cable TV ~ Full Kitchens Barbeque ~ Fire Pit w/Wood Provided Six Studio Units One Bedroom Cottage Two Bedroom House For Information & Reservations: 360-665-4959 www.harborviewmotel.org
Located in beautiful Nahcotta, WA just north of Ocean Park on the corner of Sandridge Rd. & 281st St.
A delicious mouthful: Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation Museum and Gift Shop LONG BEACH – The Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation Museum and Gift Shop (PCCRF) is a mouthful to say about a small museum that chronicles the history of the commercial cranberry industry. Several acres of commercial berries are also featured at PCCRF. Washington State University has conducted studies about local cranberry farming since D.J. Crowley, then a student, began his research projects in 1922. The museum is associated with those and other people’s research efforts. The museum opened May 2, 1997, and the 1,200-square-foot facility and the professionally designed and constructed area include both a well-lit interpretive center and an attractive gift shop. The display area shows the history of commercial cranberry harvesting that began on the Peninsula in 1883. By 1910 the berry was being farmed by several syndicates. Besides building a bog, the task of draining the land was a major concern for new growers. The economic “cranberry boom” of 1910 ushered in a productive era. Anthony Chabot’s 35-acre bog was one of the earliest. There are now about 235 growers on the West Coast from Oregon to British Columbia. Placards, photographs from as early as 1925, and various tools and equipment used to harvest and process cranberries highlight the museum’s display. Both dry and wet farming procedures are explained. As early as 1925 Crowley discovered that sprinkling the berries when temperatures fell below freezing helped preserve the cranberries. That same year Pacific County donated 11 acres where the museum and research center at Pioneer Road are located. Crowley purchased land directly across the road from the research center and his son Lee and daughterin-law Melinda Crowley now reside there. WSU extension agents Charles Doughty, Azmi Shawa, and Kim Patten served from 1954 to the present time. The research station has expanded and expenses are shared by WSU and PCCRF. The experimental cranberry bogs also serve as a place for tourists, local citizens, and school children to see a working farm. Harvest time, usually in October, is a very colorful time to visit the research bogs. PCCRF is funded by members, public donations, and crop sales. Templin Foundation helped fund an addition to triple the size of the warehouse and a grant from the Ben Cheney Foundation helped purchase exhibit items. In the 1990s commercial cranberry acreage reached about 650 acres on the Peninsula. Growers began marketing their berries through the Ocean Spray co-op. In 1982 prices had been about $42 for a barrel of berries and by 1997 it had increased to $55. (A barrel of cranberries was defined by Congress in 1915 as being 95.4 liters or just over 36 gallons.) By 1999 the market dropped to a low of
$15 per barrel, while the cost was over $25 for growers to produce a barrel. To cut costs Ocean Spray quit advertising and in the next four years at least six growers declared bankruptcy, while others simply retired. By 2008 the price had bounced back to $52 and Ocean Spray now has several colorful and amusing advertisements. Many new products that include cranberry juice have also come on the market. Craisins, a sweetened dried cranberry product, have also been an economic success and Ocean Spray sales have jumped to 19 million pounds. Bees are necessary for pollination of cranberries. “We have four hives to the acre,” Ardell McPhail said of the bogs she and Malcolm McPhail own near Ilwaco. About 1,250 bee hives were transported to the Peninsula from Naches by “bee man” Eric Olson. Two semi-trucks were used. Soil improvement and replanting is an on-going procedure growers also must do to keep production high. The museum gift shop sells juices, candies, T-shirts, candles, jam, wine, and pottery related to cranberries. It is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day. It opened this year in April and will close in late December for the winter. It is located at 2907 Pioneer Road just north of Long Beach. For more information go to the website www.cranberrymuseum.com or call 642-5553.
KEVIN HEIMBIGNER photo
Ardell and Malcolm McPhail and Lee and Melinda Crowley visit the Pacific County Cranberry Research Foundation Museum and Gift Shop. They are holding some of the tools of the commercial cranberry trade from the museum's display area. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily from April through December.
92ND CRANBERRIAN FAIR SET FOR THIS OCTOBER
A tiny red berry is big time from Seaview and Ilwaco, east to Chinook and north to the Ocean Park area. It’s a cranberry. The little berry is so big that the annual Cranberrian Fair is held in its honor. Cranberries make up a big part of the Peninsula’s personality, so much so that it’s impossible to imagine our home without its distinctive and colorful cranberry fields. Grayland, which straddles the Pacific-Grays Harbor county line, is also a major producing area. Other West Coast bogs are near Ocean Shores; in Bandon, Ore.; and in British Columbia. A celebration of local harvest including all things cranberry will take place on the Long Beach Peninsula, centered around the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum in Ilwaco, on Oct. 13 and Oct. 14, from 10 a.m. until 4 p.m. Foods, crafters, bog tours, and more will showcase the area’s rich heritage during the 92nd Annual Cranberrian Fair. Collectible Cranberrian Fair buttons are $5 each and cover admission to all
events at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum. The Cranberry Museum is free. As part of Cranberrian Fair activities, the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum in Ilwaco will host a variety of vendors, offering handmade items such as pottery, jewelry, hand turned wooden bowls, paintings, cranberry vine baskets, homemade peach/cran-
berry pies, and more. Fair entrance includes full admission to the museum’s extensive exhibitions and the 1889 narrow gauge passenger car Nahcotta. Check out the various craft demonstrations throughout both days, which will include rug hookers and a blacksmith. From the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum, the Cranberry Trolley will whisk visitors to the
DAMIAN MULINIX photos
Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation and Cranberry Museum. The museum’s gift shop is stocked with cranberry goodies. Watch the red berry harvest as part of the fair. The Cranberry Trolley runs on the hour from the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum to the Cranberry Museum from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m., Saturday and Sunday. Space is limited and seating is on a first-come first-serve basis. Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum hours are Tuesday through Saturday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sunday noon to 4 p.m. Thursdays are free thanks to sponsorship by the Port of Ilwaco. For more information call 6423446 or visit columbiapacificheritagemuseum.org
Discovery Coast 2012 | 25
Fascinating, quirky, fun museums will light up your day When locals advise out-of-town guests about what to do, Marsh’s Free Museum inevitably is on the list. Some folks claim Jake the Alligator Man was a valet in a New Orleans brothel. Others say Jake the Alligator Man was a sideshow freak who smoked cigars and could nod yes or no to simple questions. A retired couple who drive from Kelso every summer to see Jake the Alligator man claim they remember him, alive and nodding, in a Texas carnival. For all the curiosities at Marsh’s Free Museum, 409 S. Pacific Avenue (State Route 103), in Long Beach, the boffo attraction is Jake the Alligator Man. Jake appears to be an ossified dwarf whose skin has turned a putrid black. From the waist down, Jake is an alligator, with scales and tail. For all the two-headed cows and
Siamese-twin lambs, the world-class shell collection and nickel peep shows at Marsh’s Free Museum, the star remains Jake the Alligator Man. He perches in a glass case with a sign that reads “We have very little history on Jake.” And yet, history abounds at Marsh’s Free Museum, a citadel of wholesome hokum that is the best sort of attraction. It doesn’t cost anything to see Theda Bara’s headband or the Civil War leg irons or the spittoon from the Silver Dollar Saloon in Alder Gulch, Nev. On the main drag in Long Beach, Marsh’s Free Museum is the collection of Wellington Marsh Sr., who died in 1977, and his son Wellington Marsh Jr., who passed away in 1995. You can buy two bubble shells for a nickel. Where can you buy anything for 5 cents nowadays, let alone two for a nickel? Every customer receives a free
seashell affixed to a small card. Marsh’s gives away 130,000 shells a year. Tourists think the shells come from Long Beach, glistening just out the back door, but they are actually from Mexico and the Philippines; the local surf pounds shells to pieces. Tourists remember places that give something for nothing, and they never forget Jake the Alligator Man. Long Beach antiques dealer Ray Pryor bought Jake at an auction when Whitney’s Museum in San Francisco, a similar palace of palaver, closed in 1965. Wellington Marsh Jr. “didn’t want to pay $750 for Jake but I talked him into it,” says his wife Marian. “If Grandpa and Dad walked in today, they would like this place,” David Marsh said. “See, they loved being entertained, they loved the old razzmatazz. They were showmen and businessmen.” MADDIE DICKERSON photos
Marshʼs Free Museum and its Jake-related activities celebrate seashore sideshow/carnival culture.
Carriage museum showcases treasury of classic vehicles
Ja et k eA h ig l or t a an M el c ra b e s7 e t th 5 -d B y. a a i n g
LONG BEACH — Lucky local Jake the Alligator Man celebrates his fourth annual 75th birthday in style this Aug. 3 and 4 with a plethora of outrageous activities including a rousing bachelor party at the Long Beach Elks and a Bride of Jake pinup contest to choose his latest blushing bride. Last year, around 12 girls competed for the coveted title, including such varied characters as Catlin the Lobster Girl, born with lobster claws and thus abandoned on the banks of the Chehalis River; Marie Love’Bow, a voodoo gypsy from Louisiana; and Jessica the Bearded Lady, who was abandoned by her parents at the circus. One of the contestants, Betty Blue, self-described as a “day younger than spring” said that she’s always had a crush on Jake. And while the competition was stiff, she says, “I know Jake only has an eye for me.” But unfortunately for Betty, Jake’s scaly hand in marriage went to another hopeful, local girl Monica Midnight, aka Monica Morley, who has competed for a number of years and finally took home the prize. This year, she was a tad green from a love potion gone wrong that she made last year to try to win Jake’s heart. The title of bridesmaid went to another local, Katy Kosmic.
26 | Discovery Coast 2012
“How many horses under the hood?” may not have been the exact words uttered when looking at a late model C-Spring Victoria, but “How many horses do you own?” may have. The Northwest Carriage Museum in Raymond offers visitors the chance to journey back to a time when if you didn’t have a coach, you were probably walking. Many of the carriages were in poor condition when purchased and very deteriorated. However, they were restored by an Oregon craftsman. The coaches were donated to the city of Raymond in 1999. The city and the Northwest Carriage Museum created a partnership to develop a museum plan and raise funds. The museum building was funded by grants and is owned by the city of Raymond.
Once inside the stylishly designed building you will find a wealth of information regarding transportation in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The display floor is divided into four categories of carriages — luxury, economical, leisure and work,
ness, however, being used in the motion pictures “Gone with the Wind” and “Jezebel.” The museum is open Wednesday through Saturday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Sundays noon to 4 p.m., April through September only. Admission is $3 for adults, $1 for
though the majority are luxury models. One of the highlights among the luxury coaches is the Shelbourne Landau, a carriage for the wealthy of its day. This particular one has a history in show busi-
ages 6 to 14, and 5 and under are free. Schools and groups are welcome to contact the museum for tours. For more information call 360-942-4150. The museum is located at 314 Alder St., just off Highway 101.
Our remarkable history in one amazing museum Who was here before Lewis and Clark? What Peninsula town was once the richest in the United States? Why did a railroad run by the tides? Find answers to these questions and much, much more at the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum. Delve into the colorful history of the Long Beach Peninsula. Discover the proud culture of the Chinook Indian Tribe and the abundant flora, fauna and marine life of the Chinookan homeland. Follow the exploration and trade of the Spanish, Russian, British and American explorers and merchant mariners. Walk along the paths that depict life in a Peninsula village. Learn about the fishing and cranberry industries. Visit the Water Gallery highlighting maritime adventures. View the “Nahcotta,” a restored narrow gauge passenger car that once served on the “Railroad that Ran by the Tides.” In anticipation of its forthcoming 25th anniversary celebration, the board of directors of the Ilwaco Heritage Foundation voted in 2007 to
KEVIN HEIMBIGNER photo
Be sure to check out the garden at Ilwacoʼs fine museum.
change the name of the Ilwaco Heritage Museum to the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum. The new name reflects exciting changes at the museum and a refreshed focus on this region’s nationally famous cultural and historic riches. A study now underway is expected to result in federal designation of Lower Columbia River and Willapa Bay com-
munities as the Columbia Pacific National Heritage Area, the first West Coast area to be so honored. Visitors often comment that the museum is much more than they expected, thinking that only the history of Ilwaco is presented. In fact, this outstanding museum does a tremendous job at its mission: “to preserve and interpret the significant historical
Explore a rich past at the Pacific County Museum Looking very much like the old-fashioned grocery store it once was, the outside of the Pacific County Museum might not catch the eye of those passing through South Bend on Highway 101. A stop at 1008 West Robert Bush Dr. (U.S. 101) is well worthwhile. Step through the door into yesteryear and into what at first looks like a turn of the century barber shop. Cheerful volunteers invite visitors to browse through a range of interesting artifacts, mostly dating from the late 19th
and early 20th centuries. The museum, which is open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily (except national holidays), charges no admission. It is supported by membership, a Pacific County grant from a special hospitality tax and by visitor donations. The museum also serves as an official county Tourist Information Center. For information, call 360-875-5224, or access the Pacific County Historical Society Web site at www.pacificcohistory.org.
Pacific Pacifficc County
Historical Society
and cultural resources of the greater Columbia Pacific region.” The new name also compliments the new look at the museum. If you haven’t visited the museum in a while, you will be pleasantly surprised by the improvements that have been made. Starting in 2000, the 21st Century Millennium Project began a series of activities to enhance the building. Some improvements are obvious. The bright and cheery new paint on the outside of the building and the new floors, lights and paint in the lobby, gift shop and offices have created a more open and inviting space. The CPHM gift shop offers a variety of books, teaching tools and items associated with regional history and industry, books about the Lewis and Clark Corps of Discovery along with tasteful souvenirs and gifts. A new memorial park and garden is a pleasant retreat for travelers. Columbia Pacific Heritage
Museum: Located at 115 SE Lake Street in Ilwaco, across the street from the post office, one block south and a half block east of the stoplight on US 101. Hours: 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Monday through Saturday — noon to 4 p.m. Sundays. Phone: 360-642-3446. Admission: Adults $5; senior citizens (55 and over), $4; youths (12-17), $2.50; children (6-11), $1; under 6, free.
Finn Festival: an array of culture and learning NASELLE — The bi-annual Finnish-American Folk Festival in Naselle is known far and wide for its Maypole dance, kantele music, and a myriad of other entertaining events, but FAFF is also famous for its educational and cultural offerings. The 2012 FAFF, scheduled for July 27 through 29, will be no exception. The numerous FAFF volunteers have been moving into high gear to put on the festival that will once again be held in “downtown” Naselle at the school at the junctions of Highways 4 and 401. The festival, which began in 1982, is held on even numbered years. It is a celebration of the cultural heritage of the Finnish-American people of Naselle and the Grays River Valley. The festival will feature performers, lecturers and discussion groups, photography, history, art, handicraft, and quilt exhibits, the Paavo Nurmi Run, a golf tournament in Long Beach, an authentic Finnish dinner, food booths, a family dance, a church service, and a celebration at the cemetery. For complete updated information, see the festival website: http://finnam.naselle.net/Finnam/Tervetuloa.html
The Appelo Archives Center in Naselle offers historic logging displays and photographs. Also displays on local Finnish history. Bookstore features books for sale, including the popular book, When Logging Was Logging. Open Tuesday through Friday, 10 to 4 and on Saturday, 10 to 2.
MUSEUM & VISITOR CENTER Local and Northwest History Book Store • Maps and Charts www.pacificcohistory.org
OPEN EVERY DAY! 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. • FREE
ADMISSION 360-875-5224 • MP 54, Hwy. 101 - South Bend
www.appeloarchives.org (360) 484-7103. 1056 State Route 4, Naselle, Washington Discovery Coast 2012 | 27
The Ship Graveyard of the Pacific: A deadly legacy Innocent Peninsula sands hide the remains of many vessels. Lean into a gale on a stormy day on the rocky headlands overlooking Cape Disappointment State Park and you’ll be able to imagine ghost ships bearing down on the rocks, sails tattered and masts splintered, sailors praying for deliverance. These few miles of beach and cliffs, from Leadbetter Point in the north to Cape Disappointment in the south, have consumed more ships than just about any other real estate in the world. Why is it so dangerous here for ships? In the days before satellite navigation and cell phones, sailors sometimes had little idea where they were in relation to the shore, especially during raging winter storms that can last for weeks. Even when visibility was acceptable, ships often had trouble traversing the Columbia River bar, the area in which the gigantic flow of the river rushes headlong into towering ocean waves. Sailing ships had a terrible time getting into the Columbia, since the two natural channels through the broad, sedimentchoked river mouth — particularly the north channel — forced ships to turn sideways to the wind and waves. Ships and lives are still lost today. A somewhat choppy but manageable river can suddenly twist itself into an unimaginable chaos of tossing, turning, icy water. The Ilwacobased crab fleet, which faces a season that starts in December, counts itself lucky to get through a year without fatalities. Recreational boaters also account for many lost lives nowadays — the river on a stormy day is no place for humans of any description, let alone amateurs. Four men lost their lives offshore in the winter of 2012, fishing in deep water — there will probably never be complete certainty about what happened. Almost 2,000 vessels of all types and about 700 lives have been claimed by the treacherous sea over the past 300 years. Some vessels were stranded, while others sunk outright or simply disappeared in that infamous triangle formed by Clatsop Spit, Leadbetter Point and Astoria. “Some boats survived the ordeal and went on to sail another day,” says local historian and author Nancy Lloyd. “Others were complete shipwrecks, a few of which are still in evidence. “The Bettie M is visible on Jetty A. The Peter Iredale may be the most photographed shipwreck anywhere. The Alice in Ocean Park occasionally shows a bit of skeleton. The Admiral Benson at Benson Beach continues to snag fishing gear. The list below — covering only the early period of local settlement — offers the name of the vessel, the year she went down, her country of origin, the type of vessel and the lives lost, if known. Chatham, 1792, British tender. Small boat from the Hazard, 1798, American brigantine, five lost. Small boat from the Tonquin, 1811, American ship, 10 lost. Raccoon, 1813, British sloop of war. William and Ann, 1829, British barkentine, 26 lost. Isabella, 1830, Hudson Bay Co., British supply brigantine. H.M.S. Sulphur, 1839, British Royal Navy ship. U.S.S. Peacock, 1841, U.S. Navy ship. U.S.S. Shark, 1846, U.S. Navy survey schooner, crew lost.
28 | Discovery Coast 2012
Maine, 1848, American whaler. Vancouver, 1848, British barkentine. Josephine, 1849, British brigantine. L’Etoile du Matin, 1849, French ship. Silvie de Grace, 1849, American packet ship. Orbit, 1850, American brigantine. Bordeaux, 1852, barkentine. U.S.S. Dolphin, U.S. Navy brigantine. General Warren, 1852, American steamship, 42 lost. Machigone, 1852, American schooner, nine lost. Marie, 1852, American brigantine, nine lost. Potomac, 1852, brigantine. I. Merrithew, 1853, American barkentine. Mindora, 1853, American barkentine. Oriole, 1853, American barkentine. Palos, 1853, American brigantine, one lost. Vandalia, 1853, American barkentine, nine lost. Empire, 1854, American schooner. Firefly, 1854, American tugboat, four lost. Detroit, 1855, brigantine. Desdemona, 1857, American barkentine, one lost. Leonese, 1860, American barkentine, nine lost. Rambler, 1860, American schooner, five lost. Woodpecker, 1861, British schooner. Fanny, 1864, sloop. Jennie Ford, 1864, American barkentine, one lost. Jenny Jones, 1864, American schooner. Industry, 1865, American barkentine, 17 lost. S.D. Lewis, 1865, brigantine. W.B. Scranton, 1866, barkentine. Anna C. Anderson, 1869, American schooner, 7 lost. Champion, 1870, American schooner, three lost. Ellen, 1870, American schooner. U.S. Grant, 1871, American steamer. Windward, 1871, American ship. Rose Perry, 1872, Canadian schooner. Rescue, 1874, American steam tugboat. Sidi, 1874, French brigantine. Architect, 1875, American barkentine. Orient, 1875, American brigantine. Sunshine, 1875, American schooner, 25 lost. Dreadnaught, 1876, American sloop, seven lost. Nabob, 1876, British barkentine. Nimbus, 1877, American ship. City of Dublin, 1878, British ship. Allegiance, 1879, ship. Great Republic, 1879, American sidewheel steamship, 11 lost. Dilharee, 1880, British barkentine. Edith Lorn, 1881, British barkentine. Emily Stevens, 1881, American schooner. Fern Glen, 1881, British ship. G. Broughton, 1881, British barkentine. Lammerlaw, 1881, British barkentine. Rival, 1881, American barkentine. Corsica, 1882, British barkentine. Harvest Home, 1882, American barkentine. Primrose, 1882, vessel. Cairnsmore, 1883, British barkentine. Queen of the Pacific, 1883, American steamship. J.C. Cousins, 1883, American pilot schooner, four lost. Whistler, 1883, American barkentine. Devonshire, 1884, British ship. Abbey Cowper, 1885, British barkentine. Dewa Gungadhar, 1885, British barkentine. Ariel, 1886, American schooner. Carrie B. Lake, 1886, American schooner, three lost.
KEVIN HEIMBIGNER photo
Shipwrecked sailorsʼ graves on the Peninsula.
MATT WINTERS collection
A 1930s postcard shows a shipwreck that still partially emerges from the sands from time to time. W.H. Besse, 1886, American barkentine. Grace Roberts, 1887, American barkentine. Telephone, 1887, sternwheeler, one lost. Gleaner, 1888, American river steamer, three lost. Artemisia, 1889, American schooner. Douglas Dearborn, 1890, schooner, all lost. Governor Moody, 1890, American pilot boat. Strathblane, 1891, British schooner, six lost. Cadzow Forest, 1896, British barkentine. Glenmorag, 1896, British ship, two lost. Point Loma, 1896, American steam schooner. Potrimpos, 1896, German barkentine. Orion, 1897, American schooner. Samaria, 1897, American ship. Gamecock, 1898, sternwheeler. Staghound, 1898, American sternwheeler. Columbia River Lightship No. 50, 1899, American. Protection, 1899, American steamship, one lost. Andrada, 1900, barkentine. Poltalloch, 1900, British barkentine. Cape Wrath, 1901, British barkentine, 15 lost. Henriette, 1901, French barkentine. Monitor, 1901, American barkentine. Pinmore, 1901, British barkentine. Alsternixe, 1903, German barkentine. Cavour, 1903, Italian barkentine. Frank W. Howe, 1904, American schooner, two lost. Zampa, 1904, American schooner. C.A. Klose, 1905, American schooner. M.F. Hazen, 1905, American launch. Unnamed vessel, 1905, Japanese junk. Alice McDonald, 1906, schooner. Drumcraig, 1906, British barkentine. Emma Claudine, 1906, schooner. Galena, 1906, British barkentine. Melanope, 1906, British barkentine. Peter Iredale, 1906, British barkentine. Solano, 1907, American schooner. Broderick Castle, 1908, British ship. Alice, 1909, French ship. Aurelia, 1911, American steamer. Oshkosh, 1911, American motor vessel, six lost. Roanoke, 1911, American steamer, one lost. Washington, 1911, American steamship. William Nottingham, 1911, American schooner. Admiral, 1912, American schooner. Daisy Freeman, 1912, steam schooner. Marie, 1913, American motorboat. Rosecrans, 1913, American tanker, 33 lost. Rochelle, 1914, American steam schooner. W.T. and B. No. 3, 1916, American barge. Captain James Fornace, 1917, American steamship. Lenore, 1917, American fishing boat. Americana, 1918, American schooner, 13 lost. Jupiter, 1918, American fishing boat, four lost. State of Washington, 1920, American sternwheeler. Welsh Prince, 1922, British steamship, seven lost. Alpha, 1924, American gasline propeller. Caoba, 1925, American steam schooner. Coaster, 1925, steamer. Nemanosha, 1925, American fishing boat, 2 lost. Columbia, 1928, American fishing boat. North Bend, 1928, American schooner. Laurel, 1929, American steamship, one lost. Multnomah, 1929, steamship. Admiral Benson, 1930, American steamship. Sea Thrush, 1932, steamship. Pescawha, 1933, American motorship, one lost. Childar, 1934, Norwegian motorship, four lost.
Iowa, 1936, American steamship, 34 lost. Efin, 1937, American feighter. Trinidad, 1937, American steam schooner, one lost. Nisqually, 1938, brigantine. Buster, 1940, American barge. Treo, 1940, American fishing boat. Mauna Ala, 1941, American freighter. Nightingale, 1941, American minesweeper. Vaslav Vorovsky, 1941, Russian freighter. 29C822, 1944, American trawler, two lost. Donna, 1944, American trawler, three lost. Electra, 1944, American trawler. La Belle, 1945, American trawler, four lost. Republic, 1945, American trawler, four lost. Rudolph, 1945, American fishing boat. U.S.S. Arrow, 1947, U.S. Army transport. Drexel Victory, 1947, American steamship. P.T. and B. Company No. 1684 and 1685, 1947, American barges. 29P859, 1948, American trawler, two lost. Marbet, 1948, American crab boat. Neptune, 1948, American tugboat, one lost. Rose Ann, 1948, American dragger, four lost. Sea Lion, 1948, American trawler, two lost. Ricky, 1949, American fishing boat. Deneb, 1950, American motor ship. Lucky, 1950, fishing boat. Sause Brothers, 1950, American barge. Erria, 1951, Danish motorship, 11 lost. Mizpah, 1951, American fishing boat, one lost. Oleum, 1951, American oil tanker. Sil-Char, 1951, American motorboat. Susan, 1952, American cannery tender. Ida-Mae, 1953, American fishing boat. Otsega, 1953, American barge. Flora, 1954, American fishing boat, two lost. Intrepid, 1954, American barge. Permanente Cement, 1954, American freighter. Baby Doll, 1955, freighter. Doris J., 1956, American trawler, two lost. Sandra Lee, 1960, fishing boat, one lost. Mermaid, 1961, American crabber, two lost. No. 36454, 1961, U.S. Coast Guard motor lifeboat. No. 40564, 1961, U.S. Coast Guard motor lifeboat. Triumph, 1961, U.S. Coast Guard cutter, five lost. C-Trader, 1963, American freighter. Bell Buoy, 1964, American fishing boat. General John Biddle, 1964, American dredge. George Olson, 1964, American lumber barge. Meteor, 1972, American crabber. Private American boat, 1973, two lost. Bettie M, 1976, American tuna seiner. Pearl C, 1976, American charter boat, eight lost. No. 41322, 1977, U.S. Coast Guard motor lifeboat, three lost. Carolina, 1978, American trawler. Hei-She, 1980, American sailboat, one lost. Elfin, 1980, American crabber. Dori-Lee, 1981, American trawler, two lost. Jennie Decker, 1981, American schooner-dragger. Midnight Express, 1981, American dragger, four lost. Fargo, 1982, American fishing boat, one lost. Proud Mary, 1984, American fishing boat, one lost. Bonnie, 1985, American fishing boat, two lost. McKinley, 1986, American dragger-trawler, one lost. Bad Check, 1987, American fishing boat, three lost. Nickie Joe, 1987, American fishing boat, three lost. Sea King, 1991, American fishing boat, three lost. Unnamed pleasure craft, 1991, American fishing boat, two lost. Caroline, 1992, American fishing boat, two lost. Ida E, 1996, American fishing boat.
Step into a wild old green reality on Long Island clams have always been one of my most favorite foods, these were some of the best clams I’ve ever tasted. That evening a few more members of our crew arrived and it wasn’t long before everyone was out swimming in the bay enjoying the calm, warm summer evening. Watching the sun get lower on the horizon while treading water in Willapa Bay with good friends will be a memory that I hold onto forever. A surreal day was topped off by sitting on the beach and watching the Long Beach Kite Festival fireworks explode over the Peninsula, the sound echoing over the water long after the bursts had faded.
By MADDIE DICKERSON LONG ISLAND — Bundled up in my sweatshirt and lifejacket, my soaked bangs dripped water into my eyes, I could feel the heavy damp mist soaking through my clothes. It was early in the morning and the only sound on Willapa Bay was the blades of my paddle cutting through the still glassy water. I stopped paddling for a moment and looked around me back at Long Island, shrouded in thick fog and mist. I still had the majority of the four-mile paddle back to where we had launched two days prior and I started to wonder why I had agreed to this “adventure” in the first place. DAY ONE On a gorgeous Friday evening in August, a group of modern day adventurers shoved off from the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge boat launch into Willapa Bay. We were bound for Long Island, hoping the outgoing tide would deliver us to our first campsite near Pinnacle Rock. Brothers Scott and Jon Fagerland got a quick lead to the island in their canoe with Nathan Moore close behind in his kayak. Jacob Moore and I held up the rear. I paddled Nathan’s yellow plastic Frenzy ocean kayak. Jacob sliced through the still water in what has been deemed The Blue Wizard. A fiberglass Orca sea kayak that my dad bought used for a mid-1980s 10-week trip through the Inland Passage, the boat has been through a lot over the years, including having multiple trees land on it while it sat untouched in the yard. Jacob spent last summer rehabbing The Blue Wizard and got it back into ship shape for a trip to the island. At about 16 feet long and bright blue, it’s a funny looking craft but is surprisingly easy to handle, once it’s in the water that is. With little kayaking experience and what I assume is horrible form, I probably looked pretty silly huffing my way around the west side of the island. I took frequent breaks, telling myself it was to take in the sights but in reality my tiny excuses for arms were just tired. About two miles later, Nathan helped to pull my boat onshore and the lovely process of setting up camp began. That night, after a strangely satisfying meal of cheese and salami in tortillas, trail mix and Top Ramen, the four of us sat on the rocky clay beach with Pinnacle Rock in front of us and watched the sun set behind the Peninsula. While most sunsets look pretty incredible from the mainland, from the view of Long Island it just seemed more majestic, surrounded by the slight rustling of trees on the island and the water lapping against the shore. DAY TWO I should have probably prefaced this whole story with the fact that I in no way consider myself a camper. Sleeping on the ground and spending days without bathing just isn’t usually my idea of fun. But to me, camping on Long Island is different. It’s just not right to have a place so beautiful so close and not explore it. It’s so close to home, right in our backyard.
MADDIE DICKERSON photo
Yeah it’s only accessible by boat and yeah it’s more primitive than your standard camping experience but to be able to say that you have explored the island first hand is pretty cool. I made my first trip a few summers back and realized that a few days of living semi-uncomfortably are more than worth the experience. It’s surprising how many diehard locals have never made a visit to the island but understandably, it isn’t your standard camping trip and takes more planning and work. With that said, day two started with getting up way too early to paddle another two miles to our next destination at Smoky Hollow. When on the island, life goes by the tides. If you miss high tide you’re simply out of luck until the next one rolls around about 12 hours later. And heaven help you if you get stuck on the unforgiving mudflats. To avoid all of that, plan well, bring a tide book, and remember that going against the tides is an all around horrible idea if your boat’s motor is your arms. We made it to Smoky Hollow in good time and spent the morning setting up camp and lying on the beach. I had forgotten my book so all I had besides the island to keep me entertained was my camera. Lying on the beach, my mind kept racing back to the to-do list that would greet me upon my return to the mainland. I chuckled at myself when I realized the only way to get myself to really try to relax and step away from real world responsibilities was to escape to an island. Smoky Hollow is a great example of the diversity of Long Island. A wide stone beach with little agates mixed in with smooth round stones, the area differed widely from where we had camped the night before. Besides the beach, the forest was different too. While Long Island has only about 17 miles of coastline, each section is its own unique experience and destination. After a few hours of relaxation, we started the trek to the cedar grove. The entrance to the grove is fairly close to Smoky Hollow but we managed to take a few wrong turns. It took longer than normal but we eventually made it
to the Don Bonker Cedar Grove Trail. The feeling one gets when standing next to a stump of an ancient cedar is something that can only be experienced first hand. There are many trees and remaining stumps of what once was to “ooh” and “ahh” at and explore. Huge cedars and other ancient trees rose on all sides of the trail, giving just a small glimpse into what the forest may have looked and felt like hundreds of years ago. We are lucky to have such an amazing piece of natural history right in our backyard. Back at the campsite, it was naptime for me but Jon went out and scored us some steamer clams. That piece of coastline from Pinnacle Rock to Smoky Hollow is open to clamming but be sure to stay on refuge property and have a license. And while as a beach girl, steamer
RETURN TO REALITY The next morning it hurt to wake up. I knew there was a long paddle ahead and the hot, clear weekend had finally given way to cold mist and fog. Visibility across the bay was extremely low and once we got in the water it felt like we were paddling to nowhere. The surreal feeling of the night before wore off too quickly. While the two paddles of the previous days had been only about two miles each, now we had to do that whole four-mile stretch in one go. I know I probably sound like the biggest baby to you kayakers out there but at 7 a.m., the last thing I wanted to do was huff it through the wet and cold all while feeling the weight of two days worth of grime. I was starting to wonder why I had agreed to this trip in the first place. At the peak of annoyance, I stopped and laid my paddle across my lap and looked back at the island, shrouded in fog and mist. It didn’t look nearly as inviting as it had the days before. It was like the island was telling us, “You got lucky.” After the incredible weekend Long Island had granted me, I felt silly for being irritated. I smiled, dipped my paddle back in the water and made my way through the fog.
Visit remarkable Long Island Long Island is a 4,700-acre nature wonderland. Home to an abundance of wild birds and animals, it contains one of the last remaining reproducing climax forests, a unique, 274-acre stand of cedars that first sprouted during a dramatic West Coast climate change some 4,000 years ago. The cedars average five to seven feet in diameter, although some are 11 feet wide. They average 150 to 160 feet in height. In 2005, a trail to the grove was dedicated to former Washington Congressman Don Bonker, who led efforts to preserve the cedar grove and Long Island for future generations. The grove is just one small part of the island, managed by the Wildlife Service. Visitors to the island must provide their own boat to traverse an approximate 100-yard-wide channel from the boat launch at the refuge headquarters on U.S. 101, or launch at the Nahcotta Boat Basin for a crossing of approximately one mile. Other refuge units around the Peninsula offer their own unique attractions.
INFORMATION: Phone the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge headquarters at 360484-3482. Also check out the Friends of Willapa National Wildlife Refuge at www.willapabay.org/~fwnwr/ or write to the Friends at P.O. Box 1130, Ocean Park, WA 98640.
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Sights to see on & near Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Hiking trails Astoria-Megler Bridge Fort Columbia State Park Sea Resources salmon hatchery Historic area and Port of Chinook 6. Prime salmon fishing grounds 7. Ilwaco Airport: 2,500-foot runway 8. Port of Ilwaco 9. Ilwaco Heritage Museum 10. Sturgeon fishing 11. Public boat launching ramp 12. U.S. Coast Guard Station and National Motor Lifeboat School 13. Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, oldest in NW 14. North Jetty; viewpoints, fishing, beach 15. Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Park; Cape Disappointment State Park; Confluence Project designed by Maya Lin 16. North Head Lighthouse, W.W.II bunkers 17. Beard’s Hollow: beach access, surf fishing
Lewis and Clark National and State Historical Park
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18. Peninsula Visitors Bureau Information Center 19. World Kite Museum, stores, banks, restaurants, motels, parks, RV parks 20. Saddle Club, rodeo grounds 21. Rhododendron nursery 22. Cranberry bogs 23. Site of historic Klipsan Beach Lifesaving Station 24. Businesses: Restaurants, motels, parks, stores, banks, RV parks 25. State shellfish laboratory 26. Mooring basin, restaurants, oyster processing, boat launch 27. Golf, recreational facilities 28. Historic Oysterville, pioneer cemetery 29. Steelhead and trout fishing 30. Twenty-eight-mile hard-sand public beach, picnicking, kites, in-season clamming 31. Birdwatching: 200+ varieties 32. Migratory and upland bird hunting 33. Centennial murals 34. Tokeland
LARRY KELLIS photo
This is one of the best sights you never want to see: If the U.S. Coast Guard is dropping a rescue swimmer, it may mean someone is in mortal danger. Home to the National Motor Lifeboat School and Station Cape Disappointment of U.S. Coast Guard Sector Columbia River, our hazardous waters are a perfect training ground for the men and women who keep our nationʼs waterways safe.
U.S. Coast Guard helps keep us safe on the water At the southern-most point of the Peninsula lies one of the oldest and busiest Coast Guard stations on the West Coast: Cape Disappointment and the U.S. Coast Guard Motor Lifeboat School. Because it guards what has been called the world’s most dangerous waters, the station is often called to aid foundering vessels and their crews. The river itself is dangerous, but when coupled with a strong outflowing (or ebb)
tide, the clash between the outgoing current and the incoming ocean waves can be downright deadly. Numerous fishing and commercial vessels have fallen victim to the Columbia’s power combined with the dangerous offshore waters of the Pacific Ocean, with the area nicknamed “Graveyard of the Pacific” because of the number of vessels lost there at sea. Vessels stationed at the Cape include the 47-foot motor lifeboat, which was put
through its initial sea trials at the Cape. Cape Disappointment is also home to the only motor lifeboat school in the United States. Originally established to serve the Coast Guard’s District 13, the school now accepts students from marine services worldwide. There are 36 students in each class. To get to the station from Ilwaco, follow the signs to Cape Disappointment and the station. Phone 642-2382 for more information.
Pacific County Fire District offers advice for your stay the Peninsula. Residential yard debris burning is permitted at various times The Peninsula is a wonderful place to visit. Pacific County Fire Disand under certain conditions in other areas with a burning permit. Burn pertrict 1 wants your stay to be an enjoyable one. Staying safe makes your visit so much nicer. It is sincerely hoped that you will never be faced with mits may be obtained free of charge at Jack’s Country Store in Ocean Park, Pioneer Market in Long Beach, Seaview One Stop in Seaview, Fire District any emergencies, but in case you are, here is some information that will No. 1, Station 1 in Ocean Park and Station 2 be useful. The Peninsula shoreline is designated All emergency services can be reached in Seaview. For a recorded message on burn conditions, call 665-3508. as a state highway. All drivers and vehiby calling 911. As a visitor it is very Tsunami evacuation signs have cles must be licensed and insured just as important that you are aware of your been posted up and down the Peninsula in on any other state highway. The speed surroundings and know your address if an effort to make people aware of evacualimit is 25 mph, with extra caution to be tion routes. There may or may not be taken for other vehicles, pedestrians and you are staying in a vacation rental. much warning time in such an emergency, beach debris. The beach is patrolled freIf emergency service personnel canʼt so the best policy is to make your way to quently and all laws are strictly enforced. find you, they canʼt help you. high ground as soon as possible. If you Recreational beach fires are permitted are on the beach and unable to get to high 100 feet west (that’s towards the ocean) of ground go inland as far as you can and pay close attention to emerthe dune grass. Be aware of wind direction and be sure to completely gency personnels. extinguish the fire before leaving the area. Recreational and outdoor In the event of a sudden earthquake, be prepared to move to higher cooking fires are to be no more than 2 feet x 2 feet with seasoned wood ground immediately, keeping clear of buildings, trees and power lines. or charcoal. If your fire gets out of control, you may be held personally Also be careful of damaged roads with gaps in the pavement. Do not call responsible! 911 and do not attempt to evacuate the Peninsula, there will not be If you have a vacation home on the Peninsula and are here to do some enough time or access roads to accommodate an evacuation. cleanup projects, be advised that there are designated “No Burn” areas on
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SW Washington’s Beach & Bay If you are looking for a weekend close to nature, activities that the entire family will never forget, festivals or events nearly every weekend of the year, beautiful scenery, historic landmarks, walking trails and seafood that can’t get any fresher, then treat yourself to SW Washington’s Ocean Park Area.
Discover the history, festivals, food, and wildlife that made the region where the Columbia river meets the Pacific famous. Head to the coast! The Ocean Park Area Awaits!
2012 Local Events
OLD FASHIONED 4TH OF JULY PARADE – JULY 4TH ART IN THE PARK – SHELDON FIELD – JULY 4TH JAZZ AND OYSTERS – AUGUST 19TH LABOR DAY BOOK SALE – SEPTEMBER 1 - 3 COMMUNITY BEACH BONFIRE At OP BEACH APPROACH - SEPTEMBER 1 ROD RUN TO THE END OF THE WORLD – SEPTEMBER 8 & 9 WATER MUSIC - OCTOBER 12 – 14 PENINSULA ARTS STUDIO TOUR – NOVEMBER 23 & 24