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NUMBER 1 • 2012
O U R C O A S T M A G A Z I N E NUMBER 1 • 2012
www.discoverourcoast.com
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Columbia River M
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͝ǣ͔͗ ͙ǣ͔͔ ǡ ͕͖͛͝ ǡ ǡ ͙͔͗Ǥ͖͙͗Ǥ͖͖͗͗ Ǥ Ǥ
Maritime Museum
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Play by the Bay
FREE SHUTTLE SERVICE to Casino!
Pickup From These Cities: • Astoria, OR Every Wednesday Morning • Aberdeen, WA Every Tuesday Morning • Long Beach, WA Every Monday & Thursday Morning Call 866-834-7312 For Shuttle Reservations – Space Is Limited
On Hwy 105 In Tokeland Just Minutes From Raymond Must be 21 and have photo ID to enter Casino. Ridership restricted to those who come to gamble.
Stay while you play at
Quiet cozy waterfront rooms
Visit www.tradewindsonthebay.com or call 866-922-3675 to book your reservation today
www.shoalwaterbaycasino.com
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Welcome to the North Coast – enjoy your stay! And if you need anything while you’re visiting, you’ll find it in one stop at Fred Meyer!
Your favorite snacks, clothes you forgot to pack, entertainment for your kids, sporting goods... for just about anything on your list, go where the locals go to save time and money – Fred Meyer!
Open 7AM-11PM every day 695 Highway 101, Warrenton, OR 97146 Store Phone: (503) 861-3000 Pharmacy: (503) 861-3033 fredmeyer.com
Youngs Bay
Warrenton on eg Or
W tH as Co
ia tor As to
Y.
12-1-1-67890 (AMO/LLG,LKM/SMS/TLB)
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1 4
HOTEL ELLIOTT
1
Classic lodging in historic Astoria!
www.AstoriaPilotHouse.com
357 12TH STREET y ASTORIA, OREGON 97103 y INFO@HOTELELLIOTT.COM (877) 378.1924 y (503) 325.2222
WWW.HOTELELLIOTT.COM
Panoramic view of the Columbia River
1 Located in the heart of Astoria’s historic waterfront
1 On the National Register of Historic Places
1 Superb amenities in every room
1 Fire Places
Foot of 14th Street, Astoria, Oregon 97103 (503) 289-9926 or (888) 683-7987
10 OUR COAST
1 Private balcony right on the Columbia River
A Spirited C ollection of N orth w est A rt! Original Art • Fine Craft Artisan Jewelry • Gifts & Cards O P E N D A IL Y
1160 C om m ercialSt.,A storia 503.325.1270 • riverseagallery.com
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Number 1 • 2012 • www.discoverourcoast.com
Feature stories
by these four well-known Northwest travel writers
Nooks & crannies Discover treasure on Our Coast
BY BECKY OHLSEN Writer for the Lonely Planet Guide to the Pacific Northwest PAGE 12
Beating the winter rain Surviving the Pacific Northwest weather
BY MATT LOVE Publisher of Nestucca Spit Press PAGE 22
Just over the next mountain Once you’ve climed one coastal peak, you’ll want to climb more
BY PAUL GERALD Author of “60 Hikes Within 60 Miles of Portland” PAGE 30
Tasteful choices abound Our critic’s picks for dining and lodging from Oysterville to Wheeler
BY MJ CODY Author of “Wild in the City” PAGE 34
PUBLISHER
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
STEVE FORRESTER
GARY ADAMS CATE GABLE VALERIE RYAN MARILYN GILBAUGH JERRY OLSON KATE GIESE DWIGHT CASWELL JOHN GOODENBERGER MIKE PATTERSON
DESIGN
JOHN D. BRUIJN EDITOR
KATHLEEN STRECKER ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
BETTY SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY
ALEX PAJUNAS DAMIAN MULINIX Our Coast is published annually by The Daily Astorian and Chinook Observer The Daily Astorian: 800-781-3211 • Chinook Observer: 800-643-3703 www.dailyastorian.com • www.chinookobserver.com All contents copyrighted © 2012 Our Coast
Inside Our Coast
12 16 22 30 34 40 43 48
Nooks & crannies Discover treasure on Our Coast
What’s that bird? Year-round birdwatching opportunies
Beating the winter rain Surviving the Pacific Northwest weather
Just over the next mountain Discover spectacular coastal hikes
Tasteful Choices abound Dining and lodging on Our Coast
Snug pubs Local brewpubs with personality
Take a Goonies pilgrimage Visit the set locations of the film
Tee it up! Visit eight coastal golf courses
52 57 58 60 64 68 69 70
Day Trip: Museums From homespun to world-class
Keen on green The Long Beach Peninsula walks the talk
Where authors grow like chanterelles Coastal writers pen a variety of genres
Edgy, stormy or barely there Find distinct art cultures on Our Coast
Curtain up! Year round Enjoy several live coastal theater venues
Can you dig it? Clamming on Our Coast
Climb aboard – for $1 The Astoria Riverfront Trolley
History is more than skin-deep Preservaton is Astoria’s calling card
plus regional maps and directory Seaside/Gearhart. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 Astoria/Warrenton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Long Beach Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
Cannon Beach/No. Tillamook Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Our Coast Directory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
OUR COAST 11
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Nooks Crannies Discover treasure on Our Coast •BY BECKY OHLSEN
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T
he obvious pleasures of the coast are many and varied, but once you’ve become familiar with those, it’s fun to explore a little further out of the way for hidden treasures, be they weird antiques or natural wonders. Just north of Manzanita, the rocky area around Cape Falcon is full of secret stone cauldrons just waiting to be stumbled upon (but ideally not into). With names like Devil’s Cauldron and Treasure Cove, they can conjure up witches brewing eye-of-newt soup or just the world’s most scenic outdoor jacuzzi, depending on your mood and the weather. To find them – and you’ll need to do a bit of hunting around – start at the gravel parking outside of Oswald West State Park. Then take the mile-long path to Short Sand Beach, or opt for the high ground and instead head west, find the rough trail leading to the top of the hill and be sure to watch your step. For slightly more manicured outdoor activity, veer a mile or so off the main drag in Long Beach, Wash., to visit the Cranberry Museum. This small, sweet museum is run by the nonprofit Pacific Coast Cranberry Research Foundation on about 40 acres of cranberry bogs, some of which you can wander on a free, self-guided walking tour. In October, visitors can watch the berries being harvested. After your walk, duck into the museum (also free) to learn more about this quintessentially American fruit, including how it got its name and why continuing research on cranberry production is useful. You’ll also see examples of historic bog-farming equipment like mesh-backed scoops and tall, awkward-looking “bog boots,” necessary for picking berries without crushing the plants. While you’re in the area, keep your undercaffeinated eyes open for another good find: Long Beach Coffee Roasters, a local small-batch roastery and cafe with a homey, comfortable feel, free wifi and excellent coffee drinks. Though it’s not strictly speaking a hidden treasure itself – on the contrary, it’s large enough to cover a city block and smack in the middle of Ocean Park, Wash. – Jack’s Country Store contains all manner of secret nooks and crannies that are fascinating to explore. The store sells just about everything: groceries, hardware, novelties, children’s books, pots and pans, shampoo. You can pick up a Halloween costume, peruse the entire wall of hard candy hanging in bags, or surprise the kids with a “hatch and grow” sea turtle toy (note the warning on the package: “DO NOT EAT”). An even weirder selection of oddities can be found at any of the little antique and secondhand shops that line U.S. Highway 101 all along the Peninsula. Generally speaking, antique shops in the more developed tourist destinations, like Cannon Beach or Seaside, are rather strictly curated. But at the shops along the Long Beach Peninsula, nothing that washes ashore is too bizarre or beat up to be offered for your browsing pleasure. Fancy a terrifying Santa cookie jar? Maybe some framed advice in needlepoint? How about those paperback pulp detective novels? Board games based on the television shows of your childhood? Chances of finding any or all of these things are quite good. A few likely places to start include Hobo Junction and The Bay Trader in Long Beach and the Seaview Antique Mall. But really, your best bet is to slow your pace and simply follow your nose. If the junk shops in Long Beach and Seaview are a little too refined for your taste, head directly to Ilwaco for a truly unfiltered selection of treasures. What you’ll find in the downtown shops here depends entirely on luck and the tides, but when it’s good, it’s great. And be sure to investigate the shops along Waterfront Walkway, down by the port; this stretch is sort of a story continued next page Photos at left is hikers at Treasure Cove. Photos at right from top are Hobo Junction, Long Beach, Wash.; food from the Irish Table; Harry Potter Day at Time Enough Books; Cranberry Museum, Long Beach, Wash.
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Jack’s Country Store contains all manner of secret nooks and crannies that are fascinating to explore.
Cannery Row and can feel a little rough, especially if you’re traveling solo, but it has loads of unvarnished appeal. Peek into Time Enough Books if you need some beach reading while you’re here. A little further south, at Chinook Point, you’ll find Fort Columbia State Park, a historic military complex on a 593-acre day use park you’d never guess was there if you just drove past the exit on Highway 101. Built between 1896 and 1904, the U.S. Army fort buildings and batteries on the site guarded the mouth of the Columbia River until 1947. It became a state park in 1950, and now boasts more than 6,000 feet of pretty shoreline along the river. Originally, the area was home to the Chinook Indian Nation; it was later explored by the Lewis and Clark crew and Capt. Robert Gray, and in 1843 the first permanent settlers north of the Columbia settled here. These days, the remarkably well-preserved and surprisingly elegant military buildings can be rented as vacation houses throughout the year, comfortably accommodating four to 12 guests. If you’re just visiting for the day, you’ll need a Discover Pass, which you can buy on site ($10 for the day, or $30 annually). Pick up a map for a self-guided tour at the interpretive center; guided hikes in the area are available on request in July and August. Back on the Oregon side of the border, the hidden gems are just as intriguing. In June of 1942, a Japanese submarine fired 17 shells at Fort Stevens, which stood guard at the mouth of the Columbia River. The shelling caused no damage, and the fort was decommissioned in 1947. It’s now preserved inside the 3700-acre Fort Stevens State Park and can be visited along with the park’s military history museum (museum hours are 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. summer and fall, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. winter and spring). The park is 10 miles west of Astoria off Highway 101. Lovely Astoria is filled with delights, but one thing travelers might overlook is a red marble obelisk on 15th Street, between Franklin Avenue and Exchange Street, just a couple of blocks from the city’s Heritage Musesum. The obelisk marks the site of Astoria’s first post office – the first post office west of the Rocky Mountains, established in 1947. Used-book hunters have it made on the coast. Not only do most antique shops include great stashes of pulpy paperbacks, but there are also some excellent bookstores devoted to used and rare treasures. Two of these on the Oregon side are Buck’s Book Barn in Seaside and Jupiter’s Rare & Used Books in Cannon Beach. Intrepid travelers with a taste for fine food will find a nice surprise hidden away behind a Cannon Beach coffee shop. The Irish Table is a restaurant-pub occupying a former storage room behind the Sleepy Monk coffee house. Its low profile and brief opening hours mean that it escapes the notice of many passersby, but it’s adored by those in the know, so reservations are recommended. (It’s only open for dinner, starting at 5 p.m.) The intimate space has great atmosphere, with furniture built from recycled floorboards and one long table made from a huge piece of driftwood. The menu consists of traditional Irish fare that leans Northwest (veggie shepherd’s pie, lamb stew), but it’s a major step above standard pub fare. Photo above is Jack’s County Store; photo at right is Treasure Cove.
14 OUR COAST
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Oswald West State Park Off U.S. Highway 101, 10 miles south of Cannon Beach, (800) 551-6949 Cranberry Museum 2907 Pioneer Road, Long Beach, Wash., (360) 642-5553 Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily Long Beach Coffee Roasters 811 Pacific Ave. S., Long Beach, Wash., (360) 642-2334 Open 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sundays Jack’s Country Store 26006 Vernon Ave., Ocean Park, Wash., (360) 665-4989 Open 7 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily Hobo Junction 105 13th St. S.W., Long Beach, Wash., (360) 642-5440 Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursdays through Mondays The Bay Trader 10555 Sandridge Road, Long Beach, Wash., (360) 642-2664 Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily Seaview Antique Mall 4705 Pacific Highway S., Seaview, Wash., (360) 642-2851 Open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fridays through Mondays (call for seasonal hours) Time Enough Books 157 Howerton Way S.E., Ilwaco, Wash., (360) 642-7667 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sundays Fort Stevens State Park 100 Peter Iredale Road, Hammond, (503) 861-1671 Site of Astoria’s first post office 15th Street between Franklin Avenue and Exchange Streets Buck’s Book Barn 1023 Broadway, Seaside, (503) 791-4010 Open 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Thursdays through Mondays Jupiter’s Rare & Used Books 244 N. Spruce St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-0549 Call for hours The Irish Table 1235 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-0708 Open at 5 p.m. daily except Wednesdays
Go to discoverourcoast.com
On your computer or mobile device for hiking maps and more
OUR COAST 15
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What’s that bird?
Birding along the coast offers year-round opportunities. More than 340 species have been recorded, as restoration projects and wildlife preservation have become priorities.
•BY JERRY OLSON AND MIKE PATTERSON
W
Walk among the rivers and streams, fresh- and saltwater ponds, marshes and tidal estuaries of the North Oregon and Southwest Washington Coast, and you feel an earthy connection to the habitat, food sources and environmental stewardship that makes this corner of the world an ecological paradise for birders, bird lovers and nature lovers to cherish. What better introduction to nature than the many easy hikes and accessible viewing spots in the area? Some of the most accessible bird viewing opportunities can be found in Seaside, where the North Coast Land Conservancy has purchased or restored several sites for wildlife viewing. Take an easy walk among the willows and spruces at the Neawanna Mill Ponds off Avenue S, where nearly 250 species of birds have been recorded. This reclaimed former lumber mill provides the photographer with a great place to record wildlife in action. Fiddle with your shutter speed to capture action or your depth of field setting to create drama, and you have a great record of your memories along the coast. The Necanicum Estuary, which can be accessed from Seaside at Franklin Avenue or Gearhart at Wellington Avenue, is one the best places to witness the annual migration of shorebirds, including thousands of sandpipers and plovers. Brown pelicans congregate on the beach at Gearhart Spit and the dunes are home to nesting northern harriers and short-eared owls. Young children and the young at heart get a real treat in Cannon Beach at Haystack Rock, when the summer awareness program is staffed with knowledgeable volunteers. You can view tufted puffins, black oystercatchers and a variety of gull species with provided binoculars and spotting scopes. The staff also provides an interpretative tour of other creatures in tidepools and on the rocks. The newly created walking paths between Ecola Creek and the Little Pompey Wetlands also offer ample opportunities to view a variety of bird species. The 6-mile Fort to Sea Trail in Fort Clatsop National Memorial passes through sand dunes, old growth forest and tidal marshes to create a pristine environment. Trek through the solitude and abundant wildlife, with shuttle service available at the end of the hike in Sunset Beach State Park. Combine this with a canoe trip from Netul Landing down the Lewis and Clark River or Youngs River to the Columbia. Another prime viewing area is Fort Stevens State Park in Hammond, with its miles of flat bike trails along lakes, freshwater marshes and estuarine wetlands, finishing
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at the South Jetty of the Columbia River. for birding on the Long Beach Peninsula in Watch the waves crashing on the rocks, view Washington. Drive to the tip of the Peninsula gulls and sandpipers, and enjoy the antics of in Leadbetter Point State Park for a tremenbrown pelicans as they dive for food or play dously diverse viewing opportunity. You can follow-the-leader. easily stroll the four distinct trails in the park In Astoria, the waterfront Riverwalk to see different ecosystems and the effect the boasts a bird list approaching 170 species twice-a-day tides have on wildlife and wateralong with up-close and fowl. Willapa Bay at Leadpersonal viewing of Califorbetter Point is best known nia sea lions, harbor seals for spring and fall concenand the occasional river trations of shorebirds includotter. Coxcomb Hill, home ing long- and short-billed of the Astoria Column, prodowitchers, marbled godvides a spectacular wits and black-bellied panoramic viewscape of the plover, which come to ply At Haystack entire lower Columbia the rich mud for inverteRock you can River and is the best spot for brates. view tufted watching the spring migraOne of the best spots to tion of forest species returnfeel the sand beneath your puffins, black ing from the Neotropics to toes or take in the smells of oystercatchers breed here in the Oregon the saltwater marshes is on and a variety of Coast Range. the Peninsula’s Discovery East of Astoria, the TwiTrail, an 8.5-mile trail gull species. light Eagle Sanctuary offers through picturesque forests, chances to view thousands of ducks, geese a coastline with lighthouses, sand dunes, and swans in the fall and winter. Bald eagles, lakes, rivers and marshes, all with boardnorthern harriers and peregrine falcons are at- walks, bridges and good nearby hiking trails. tracted to the waterfowl bounty and are easily The trail meanders from Long Beach through observed as they hunt and loaf. the Sitka spruce wetlands of Beard’s Hollow Equally astounding are the opportunities to end in Ilwaco and Baker Bay. Photo at left is Townsend’s warbler at the Mill Ponds in Seaside. Photos above, clockwise from top left are Blue Heron on the Skipanon River; Black Oystercatchers at Haystack Rock; Caspian terns in the Necanicum Estuary; osprey at Broadway Park in Seaside; pelicans over the Columbia River; waterfowl at Black Lake on the Long Beach Peninsula.
OUR COAST 17
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CAMP 18
RESTAURANT
WESTGATE Cabins & RV Park ON THE BEACH 7 Miles North of Long Beach
OPEN ALL YEAR
(360) 665-4211
Ocean Front Cabins color TV • cable • full RV hook-ups • fish cleaning rooms restrooms/ showers • laundry • recreation room with fireplace
Klipsan Beach 20803 Pacific Way • Ocean Park, WA 98640
W AV ES O F C H AN G E W ELLN ES S C EN T ER
“Catch the Wave” t o h e a l t h & W e l l ne s s
1 0 0 4 M a r ine D r iv e A s t o r ia O R
Offering Reflexology, Aromatherapy , Nutrition and Lifestyle Consulatation, Reiki, Tai Chi Classes, Fitness Classes and Wellness Classes
(In A s t o r ia ’s H is t o r ic U nd e r g r o u nd )
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50 3.338.9 9 21 w w w .r e f l e x o l o g y -w o r ks .c o m
ANTIQUES, COLLECTIBLES, BOOKS & FURNITURE • Serving Breakfast, Lunch, & Dinner • Complete Facilities for Banquets, Meetings & Receptions • Wedding Parties & Rehearsal Dinners Welcome • Free Logging Museum • Gift Shop • Locals favorite stop on the way to Portland or on your way here Open 7 Days a week 7 AM to 9 PM • 503.755.1818 www.camp18restaurant.com
Home of the Old Time Logging Museum • U.S. Highway 26 at Milepost 18, In Elsie 18 OUR COAST
Long Beach Peninsula
TRADING POST 22604 Pacific Hwy. Ocean Park, WA 98640
665-3611 • WE BUY ESTATES Open 7 Days a Week 10am-5pm • Bob & Brenda Hill
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HAL’S EMPORIUM & GENERAL STORE
MEGA EXPERIENCE FOR THE ENTIRE FAMILY! HOMETOWN MINI-DEPARTMENT STORE
DOLLAR-ISH BARGAINS • KAYAK RENTALS • GREY BEARD’S CAFE
NEHALEM
Hwy 101 @ flashing light
503.368.5885 503.815.3500
TILLAMOOK 312 N Main Ave
Member NWMLS
For Long & Short-term Rentals Contact...
Pacific Realty Property Management
Surfside office Ocean Park office Long Beach office
• Ocean front & view vacation homes • All nonsmoking homes • Select pet friendly homes • Larger homes - up to 10 guests
1.800.774.4114 1.800.854.0032 1.800.854.2232
888-879-5479 www.pacrentals.com
www.lighthouseproperty.com
Call us for reservations at:
1-800-4 CHOICE (360) 642-3714
• 42 large comfortable rooms • pets welcome and suites • non-smoking available • continental breakfast • heated pool in summer • fireplaces • easy walk to beach • kitchenettes & broadwalk • located downtown • free wi-fi connectivity • HBO 115 3rd st. sw long beach, wa 98631 www.choicehotels.com/hotel/wa192
Wholesale and Retail Sales Located at 306 Dike Road on the Palix River in Bay Center
• • • • • • •
OPEN MON.-FRI. 10-4
Fresh Willapa Bay Oysters Farm-raised Steamer Clams Local Crab & Fish in Season Special Topless Party Oysters Free Samples Custom Orders Welcomed Pickled Salmon
360-875-5519 Toll-free 888-905-9079
Visit our online store www.baycenterfarms.com seafood@willapabay.org
We ship fresh seafood anytime
STAY INFORMED Here are 3 easy ways to stay informed during emergency and hazardous weather events! 1. Like the Pacific County Emergency Management Agency Facebook page at www.facebook.com/pcema to follow frequent emergency management and preparedness dialogue. 2. Follow @PCEOCNews on Twitter to get updates from the Pacific County EOC when activated. If you are not signed up for Twitter, you can receive the same information via text message. Just text follow PCEOCNews to 40404. 3. Receive the latest emergency management information and hazardous weather notices by signing up for the PCEMA email list. Provide your name and email to sfritts@co.pacific.wa.us or drowlett@co.pacific.wa.us and include the word “Subscribe” in the subject line. You may also read these notices on the PCEMA Blog at www.pcema.blogspot.com
OUR COAST 19
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The Cellar on 10th wines, gifts and accessories “Featured Wine Tastings every Saturday from 1-4pm” Fine Wines & Champagnes Large Northwest Selection
“A recommended place to stop in Astoria”
Over 4,000 bottles
--Sunday Oregonian, Apr. ‘11
Wine Tasting Bar Gifts And Accessories
Coast Weekend 2010 Reader’s Choice Award
Gourmet Foods
“Recommended place to visit”
Winemaker Dinners Private Parties
-- Best Wine Shop in Astoria
-- Northwest Palate Magazine, Sept./Oct. 2008 Issue
“One of the highlights in Astoria” --Oregon Wine Press, Sept. ‘08
1004 Marine Drive P.O. Box 386 503-325-6600 fax 503-325-6601 Astoria, Oregon
3>ŽĐĂů3 džƉĞƌƚŝƐĞ3ǁŝƚŚ3/ŶƚĞƌŶĂƚŝŽŶĂů3 džƉŽƐƵƌĞ
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3EŽǁ3ŐĞƚ3ĞǀĞŶ3ŵŽƌĞ3ĨƌŽŵ3
THE ‘ALAINA ADVANTAGE’ 3ǁŝƚŚ3ŽĨĨŝĐĞƐ3ŝŶ3 ĂŶŶŽŶ3 ĞĂĐŚ͕3DĂŶnjĂŶŝƚĂ3Θ3'ĞĂƌŚĂƌƚ͊
ROYAL CAB (503) 436-9000 • (503) 440-3202 cell www.TheAlainaAdvantage.com AlainaGiguiere@mac.com
20 OUR COAST
of Astoria
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www.thecellaron10th.com email: thecellaron10th@aol.com
Astoria, OR 503-325-5818
Long Beach, WA area 360-665-3500
• Gift Cards • 10% Military Discount • Friendly Service • Competitive Rates • All vehicles equipped with bike racks • Cash • Debit • Visa/Mastercard & Discover Accepted • Pet Friendly
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Banker’Suite s
The
A S T O R I A
w w w .th eb a n k erssu ite.co m
Welcome Facials with Osmosis Skin Care • Non-acidic peel • Collagen eye mask • Micro-current, Removal of Minor Skin irregularities • Bodyworks: Body wraps • Sea salt body scrubs • Pedicures • Manicures • Shellac • Eyebrow & Lash Tinting • Detox Foot bath • Waxing
to The Banker’s Suite offering luxurious elegance with enchanting artistry. Located in Astoria’s downtown historic district, the Suite offers 5,000 square feet of entertaining space designed to be intimate for two overnight guests, or: Small weddings Rehearsal dinners Corporate retreats Seminars
1180 Commercial Street Downtown Astoria Cell: 503-338-8104 Salon: 503-325-9353
Call for an appointment or Make your appointment online
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www.nadiaskinailcare.com www.nadiaskinailcare.com
Casual Fine Dining LUNCH & DINNER Seafood Steaks • Pastas Salads • Chowder BANQUETS • CATERING “GOLDEN2008 FORK AWARD” OREGON LOTTERY Gerry Frank, The Oregonian
The Banker’s Ballroom
“We felt like royalty, a fairy King and Queen in a magical palace. So beautiful!” -- Dan and Noelle Herman, San Diego, CA “We can’t say enough good things about the Banker’s Suite!” -- Susanna and John, Salem, OR “I can’t begin to explain how wonderful our time at the Banker’s Suite last week was. In all sincerity, you gave us a slice of pure magic.” -- Ashley, Salisbury, MD
1105 COMMERCIAL ST. ASTORIA
503.338.6640 Reservations Accepted Visa • Mastercard American Express • Diners Club
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The Banker’s Suite in Astoria, Oregon is a beautiful setting for your lasting memories. We at the Banker’s Suite look forward to assisting you in creating your dream wedding...
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OUR COAST 21
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winter rain
BY MATT LOVE
beating the
LILY HUDNELL PHOTO
Thursday morning, March 31, 2011 was the day that would eventually conclude the second wettest March on the North Coast since instruments have measured depressing records of this kind. I peered out the window of my Newport High School classroom, saw rain falling for the 31st day in a row and immediately thought of one of Ken Kesey’s immortal riffs about rain from “Sometimes a Great Notion,” set on the Oregon Coast, undoubtedly the greatest novel about rain in the history of world literature: “… There is solace and certain stoical peace in blaming everything on the rain, and then blaming something as uncontrollable as the rain on something as indifferent as the Arm of the Lord.”
In 14 years residing at the Oregon Coast I’ve learned how to master the rain for my own unique purposes.
Amen! Has any writer ever written a truer sentence about the rain than that? For those of us who have lived on the Pacific Northwest Coast for several years, and “made it through a winter to understand” to paraphrase Kesey in “Sometimes a Great Notion,” we know how to use the rain for our own excuses, machinations and narratives. If you don’t, you end up defeated by the rain, desperate to leave. And leaving is what so many newcomers to the coast eventually do, back to the Willamette Valley and other far-flung, drier places. They couldn’t hack it, but maybe they didn’t know how. story continued next page
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HANNAH CHACON PHOTO
KATYA MELO PHOTO
MARY DAVIS PHOTO
SYDNEY ANDERSON PHOTO
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ELANA SUTTON PHOTO
“We are going to war against the rain,” I said. “We are hardcore Oregonians, so get me the best rain shots in the history of photography.”
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That morning in the classroom, my patience with the rain hung by the thinnest of cobwebs. As I stared out the window, I schemed how to motivate my listless and intellectually waterlogged students. Soon, they would start streaming in, with pale, vacant faces resembling prisoners of war and moisture visibly evaporating from their clothing. I was particularly concerned with the photography class. They hadn’t gone outside in a month to shoot photographs and were sick of learning new Photoshop tricks. I suspected they were going insane in precisely the same tortuously languid way Meriwether Lewis went insane on his winter visit to the Pacific Northwest a little over 200 years ago. It rained practically every day during his damp residence in Fort Clatsop, and the formerly prolific writer wrote barely a word in his journal. Stasis had gripped him tight and threatened to do the same to my students, and I suspected, many longterm coastal residents. I thought to myself: We’ve got to move. So we did, into the deluge. In my 14 years residing at the Oregon Coast, which means I’ve endured roughly 720 inches of rain, I’ve learned a thing or two about the rain and how to master it for my own unique purposes, ranging from the romantic to the creative to the curricular. My survival guide is at the right. Fourth period rolled around and in trudged the photography students. I told them to gather around the whiteboard where I wrote the fatal statistics: 14 inches of rain during the last 30 days, double the average amount, a record for March. Four inches had fallen in the last several days. They groaned and looked not so discretely to their cell phones for deliverance. “We are going to war against the rain,” I said. “We are hardcore Oregonians, so get me the best rain shots in the history of photography. I’ve got 20 bucks for the best image. I want spouts, gutters, puddles, drops, hair, windows, dogs, feet. I don’t care. I want to see rain like I’ve never seen before. Teach me about it!” “Now get your cameras and hit the rain!” I yelled. The students roared in delight and geared up in seconds. I probably should have cranked up Eric Clapton’s “Let it Rain” to send us into battle, but I was the first one out the door, with two cameras slung around my neck and one stuffed in my pocket. Thirty minutes later, we sat soaked in my darkened musty classroom, watching a slide show of stunning and wholly original black and white photographs taken around campus. Lily earned first prize with a self portrait shot of rain drops dangling off her fingers. I’ll never forget this image as long as I live. We beat the rain. You can too. You need only to confront it.
Go to discoverourcoast.com
On your computer or mobile device for a slide show of all the students’ photographs
Matt Love’s Rules for Surviving a Winter of Pacific Northwest Coast Rain 1. Get out into it! Take it on! And never use an umbrella because who doesn’t want to feel rain on your face, or better yet, see it run down the face of someone you love? 2. When a big storm hits and the hard rain slants in six different directions, go to the beach with the dog and watch the collisions into the ocean. I find it one of the most primal scenes a person can experience, and typically never encounter another human who might taint the awesome privacy of the moment. Bringing a partner or date along is acceptable. 3.During a rainy day, make a mix tape, CD or playlist of your favorite rain songs (my number one is Led Zeppelin’s “Fool in the Rain”). According to a fantastic website called Rain Songs, http://www.lacarte.org/songs/rain/, there are “almost 800 song titles relating to rain and rainy things, including over 50 named just ‘Rain.’” Then open a bottle of decent red wine, turn up the music and watch the rain fall. 4. Read “Sometimes a Great Notion” and memorize all the great rain lines. For example, “He hears the rain on the roof, like soft nails being driven into the rotten wood. It has commenced, all right. And it’ll go on now for six months.” Read any of Don Berry’s wonderful trio of novels set in pioneer Oregon: “Trask,” “Moontrap” or “To Build a Ship,” and marvel at some of his wonderful sentences about rain, such as, “In Oregon after two days of rain it seems as though it has been raining since the world began, and you cannot remember the last time you saw the sun.” Read the lost Pacific Northwest literary classic “Hard Rain Falling,” by Don Carpenter, set in seedy Portland in the late 1940s, and observe how this neglected author magically weaves rain into the milieu of the novel. 5. Grab a waterproof camera or wrap one in plastic and make art. Rain has an astonishingly simple and moving beauty that truly comes alive when captured on film. I never really considered gray a beautiful color until I started photographing rain. You don’t even have to go outside and get wet to do this. I love shooting photographs of rain smashing onto my skylights. 6. Run naked in the rain down the beach and dive in the ocean. I guarantee it will rate as the best ablution you’ve ever had. No guilt, either.
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$61.00 - $144.00 per night 26 OUR COAST
Come by and check out our great selection of Moonstruck Chocolates!! ManzanitaSweets.com
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2 012
ASTORIA
Scandinavian
Midsummer Festival JUNE 22, 23, 24 CLATSOP COUNTY FAIRGROUNDS Featuring:
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PENINSULA ARTS ASSOCIATION 2012 PAA ARTS EVENTS March 30 to April 1 ~ 21st Spring Art Show ~ Kite Museum LB June 8 ~ Garlic Festival Poster Reveal Reception TBA July 7 ~ Starving Artists Sale & Explosion of Art Weekend OP July 20 to 22 ~ 5th Summer Art Festival ~ Kite Museum LB October 5 to 8 ~ 42nd Fall Art Show ~ Kite Museum LB November 23 & 24 ~ 5th PAA Studio Tour ~ Peninsula Wide
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The Perfect Ocean Getaway One and two bedroom cottages surrounded by charming gardens and relaxing patio areas. Private path to waters edge. Pet friendly.
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MARSH’S FREE MUSEUM A place where troubles are forgotten and laughs and smiles are free!
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Open 7 Days, Ample Parking, Downtown Long Beach, WA 360-642-2188 OUR COAST 27
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(Formerly known as Oregon Dixeland Jubilee)
Presented by Lighthouse Jazz Society
February 24th thru 26th, 2012 • Seaside, Oregon
The Lanai 800.738.COVE (2683) at the Cove offers
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• Black Swan • Blue Street • Bridgetown Sextet • Chopped Liver Jazz Orchestra • High Sierra • Ivory & Gold • New El Dorado Jazz Band • Titan Hot Seven • Tom Rigney & Flambeau • Uptown Lowdown • Wally’s Warehouse Waifs • Bob Draga - Guest Artist
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Astoria Rivershore Motel $
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• 42 Rooms • 14 Deluxe Kitchens • Free Continental Breakfast • Fridge, Microwave & Coffee in Every Room • Cable with HBO • Columbia River View • Free Wireless Internet
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Minutes from Downtown and Astoria Attractions 360-642-2980 Call-ins greatly appreciated
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28 OUR COAST
59 W Marine Dr., Astoria (503) 325-2921 www.rivershoremotel.com
Toll-free Reservations (866) 322-8047
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two oceanfront resorts CANNON BEACH Resort & Spa
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Whether your party is large or small, with 3 rooms available for you to choose from, the Columbia Center (formerly known as the Duncan Law Seafood Center) is a great choice for your meeting, educational and private party needs. When you rent from us, we do it all! Set up, tear down and audio/ visual equipment are included! Our large meeting room can hold up to 75 people and has an attached gourmet demonstration kitchen available. For more information call: 503-338-7564
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Just over the next mountain Once you’ve climbed one coastal peak, you’ll want to discover more. • BY PAUL GERALD
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M
y love of hiking bloomed the first time I saw mountains on the horizon. I was down below, wondering what was up there: lakes, meadows, animals, fantastic scenery, wildness, solitude. I’ve spent more than 30 years going up there to search out those mysteries, and describing the wonders “up there” has become part of my life and my livelihood. But even writing about hikes for a living hasn’t changed this basic fact: Seeing a mountain in the distance makes me want to stop what I’m doing and go up there. My love of the Oregon Coast started when I saw Saddle Mountain from Astoria. I had heard about the Columbia River, the fishing, the beaches and the charming towns. But a big, dramatic mountain like that? I asked a local about it, and she said it’s in a state park, and the summit is covered with flowers in summer. All I needed to know. My first trip up Saddle was a revelation, in no small part because it’s a little steep, even rugged toward the summit, with some sections on metal grating to help with footing. All the better to stir the soul, I say. It’s also the highest thing around, wide open on top, and in summer blanketed with flowers, some of which grow nowhere else in the world. From the top, you can see the mouth of the Columbia, the ocean, and all the way to Mount Hood. My sense of coastal hiking was expanding. Next, I was standing on the beach in Seaside and noticed another big hill: Tillamook Head on the south side of town. A hiker friend told me there’s a trail that goes over it, past campsites and beautiful beaches in a state park, and into Cannon Beach, 11 miles away. My hiker’s heart soared! I actually did the hike the other way, starting in Ecola State Park and eventually tracing the footsteps of Capt. William Clark (of “Lewis and” fame) over the head, below magnificent trees, out to heart-stopping viewpoints of log-scattered beaches, past a World War II bunker, and down into Seaside for a bowl of chowder. From the top of Tillamook Head, nearly 1,000 feet above the pounding surf, I had looked out and seen, to the south, a rocky arm sticking out into the sea. What’s that, I wondered? A glance at a map told me it’s Cape Falcon, in yet another state park, Oswald West. Cape Falcon is magical enough, as you stand 200 feet above the surf with a view back to, yes, another mountain. But the hike out there was another revelation: 2.5 easy miles through oldgrowth coastal forest that seems like it would be home to fairies and elves. My friends and I even discovered what we called a “Throne of the Forest King,” and after I mentioned it in a hiking guidebook, I continue to hear strangers comment on it. With a side trail to a beautiful surfing beach, and at least one secret waterfall along the way, getting to Cape Falcon is as nice as being out there. Picnicking at the point in April or May, when irises dot the meadows, is an annual tradition now. Oh, and the mountain I saw – that would be Neahkhanie, 1,600 feet above the sea and another wildflower destination in late spring. You’ll have to slog through a sun-baked meadow and some viewless young forest, but the summit view, especially as the sun is setting, may make you want to take wing. You can even do Cape Falcon and Neahkhanie in the same hike; along the way you’ll walk through Sitka spruce and visit nerve-wracking clifftop views over the ocean. It was on one of those hikes – starting at Arch Cape and coming out at Neahkhanie – that I noticed a sign saying “Oregon Coast Trail.” I had no idea there was such a thing, and at the time it was a little more dream than trail. But in the last 10 years or so, that dream is taking shape, and Oregon State Parks now have free maps on their website, covering the whole 382-mile OCT, from Fort Stevens State Park to the California line. You can download and print the “Columbia River to Oswald West State Park” map, for example, and find that 16 miles of beach from Fort Stevens to the town of Gearhart is all OCT. From Seaside, you do the Tillamook Head hike, walk through Cannon Beach (maybe getting a coffee to recharge), and then have trail all the way to Oswald West, with just a little road walking around Arch Point.
As I have roamed all these trails and met hikers up and down the coast, I have also made many spectacular hiking discoveries.
story continued next page
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Ocean Park Area
SW Washington’s Beach
2012 Local Events May 25 - 28 ~ Worlds Longest Garage Sale - Peninsula Wide June 16 & 17 ~ 31st Annual Garlic Festival July 4 ~ Old Fashioned 4th of July Parade July 4 ~ Art In The Park– Sheldon Field August 19 ~ Jazz and Oysters September 1–3 ~ Labor Day Book Sale September 1 ~ Community Beach Bonfire at Op Beach Approach September 8-9 ~ Rod Run To The End Of The World October 12–14 ~ Water Music Festival November 23-24 ~ Peninsula Arts Studio Tour
Much More Than A Beach...
WWW.OPWA.COM Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce (360)665-4448 • (888)751-9354
Museum Store Ǥ ͝ǣ͔͗ ͙ǣ͔͔ ͕͖͛͝ ǡ ǡ ͙͔͗Ǥ͖͙͗Ǥ͖͖͗͗ Ǥ Ǥ
Columbia River Maritime Museum 32 OUR COAST
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Along the way, the OCT will take you to such sites as the wreck of the Peter Iredale in Fort Stevens State Park, the Fort-to-Sea Trail leading to a replica of Lewis and Clark’s 1805-06 fort, several beach waysides and recreation areas, the Cape Meares Lighthouse and several mindboggling trees like the 50-foot-wide Octopus Tree. If you’re into longer walks – and on the OCT you can camp or stay in hotels – it’s about 60 miles from the northern end of the trail to Manzanita. As I have roamed all these trails and met hikers up and down the coast, I have made other hiking discoveries, ranging from spectacular wildflower displays and easy walking in Washington’s Cape Disappointment State Park to the knee-pounding rigors of Elk and Kings Mountains in Tillamook State Forest. And now there’s a 21-mile trail along the Wilson River in that forest. Again, the story unfolded to me: I told a friend about the Wilson River Trail, and he said, “That river has a fantastic steelhead run!”
Just by wondering and asking, I’ve found out about charter fishing trips for tuna and halibut, year-round whale watching, hundreds of miles of kayaking, dory boats that launch right into the beach surf, secluded campsites and a string of charming towns and culinary sweet spots. In short, though I don’t live at the coast, part of me is always out there, having a great time in the outdoors. And it all started because I looked up from Astoria and said, “Hey, what’s that mountain?”
Photo on previous page is Onion Peak, east of Arch Cape. Photos above clockwise from top left are kayaking on Nehalem Bay; surfing at Indian Beach; bicyclists on the Discovery Trail path in Long Beach, Wash; hikers in Ecola State Park.
Go to discoverourcoast.com
On your computer or mobile device for hiking maps and more
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Tasteful choices abound Our critics’ picks for dining and lodging from Oysterville to Wheeler
•BY MJ CODY
F
Starting north, Long Beach Peninsula
og rolls in and what was once a balmy breeze turns into ends, but the delicious leftover strips are used for French toast. You could whipping wind. I suddenly need a jacket, preferably a always have the fried Spam. Jimella’s Seafood Market & Café is a must down jacket with hood. A minute ago I was in bright at Klipsan Beach for quality seafood, lunches and dinner, plus sandsun. Now it’s winter. I dash to my car, having snared wiches, condiments, wine and baked goods to go. Famous on the Peninsandwiches at great day café where affable owner Steve sula for decades, Jimella Lucas and Nanci Main have set the culinary Pollock does his tasty soup and sandwich conjuring in his bar so high, other gems like Jeff McMahon’s Pelicano at Ilwaco, The teeny outpost overlooking the Surfside Golf Course at Ocean Depot, and Shelburne Inn at Seaview have followed suit. (For extravaPark (a lady once remarked to him that he had such gant breakfasts, it’s the Shelburne Inn’s dining a beautiful lawn …). room restaurant – even the granola is outstanding.) Famous on the I meet my childhood friend, Diana, at the findCheck out the Lost Roo for great burgers (the lamb everything-you-could-ever-want Jack’s Country Peninsula for decades, burger!) in a spacious, fun and family-friendly atmosphere. Store in Ocean Park center. Our beach picnic is Jimella Lucas and On the Peninsula, accommodations range from foiled, but Diana knows what every local knows: fog on the beach, sun on the bay. We find a picnic table Nanci Main have set bed and breakfasts like Boreas Inn or the antiquefilled, historic Shelburne Inn to the cozy, updated at Port of Peninsula in Nahcotta and catch up while the culinary bar so 1930s cottages of Akira Bungalows (with miniwe watch gulls skim the shoreline of Willapa Bay kitchens) tucked away a block from downtown and eat fresh roasted turkey with fig and olive tapehigh, others have Long Beach. Then there’s the splendid, simple, nade and fabulous cheese BLT sandwiches. We end followed suit. less-is-more, Inn at Discovery Coast, with its luxour picnic eating gingerbread from Bailey’s Café urious linens, unobstructed ocean views and bikes and then jump-starting a stranded kayaker’s car. I always drive through Oysterville to see the historic homes – a place to borrow. One of the best deals on the Peninsula is its ocean view sisthat holds fascination since childhood – and keep driving north a few ter hotel, Adrift, spare with a more techno-industrial flair, but with the blocks for open vistas of the bay and fresh (and smoked) oysters, shrimp same eco-consciousness and attention to detail. Some of the more and fish at Oystervillle Sea Farms. Everyone raves about Full Circle unique properties include the serenely secluded China Beach Retreat Café in Ocean Park, but there are no pancakes, and service is slow (while & Audubon Cottage on a Columbia River estuary, the artsy, funky waiting, roam the adjacent knitter’s paradise yarn annex or walk a short Moby Dick Hotel and Oyster Farm, a historic Coast Guard Station, North block to the beach). Don’t expect cinnamon rolls except on the week- Head Lighthouse residences and Fort Columbia officer’s quarters.
34 OUR COAST
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Heading south, the Oregon Coast A container ship passes so close it feels like I could reach out and touch it. The thrilling moment passes and I’m left with a mere vista of the Columbia River with dramatic mountains and magnificent bridge in view. I’m at the Cannery Pier Hotel in Astoria, where every room faces the river. The Holiday Inn Express corner suites have drop-dead views of the bridge and river too, but it doesn’t have chauffeured vintage cars to take you to destinations downtown as does the Cannery Pier. Go ahead, have dinner drinks and don’t worry about driving. But where to eat? Experience a touch of history near the site of the original Fort George, where you’ll find wholesome organic soups, sandwiches, salads and fresh-baked breads and pastries at Blue Scorcher, which shares a historic building with family-friendly Fort George Brewery and Public House. On tap are handcrafted brews, including an 1811 lager commemorating Astoria’s Bicentennial. The Bowpicker is fun for fish and chips served in a boat on a city lot, but there’s no comparison to Clemente’s fish and chips, flash-fried in rice oil, or Britishstyle fish and chips at The Ship Inn. At Clemente’s, Chef Gordon Clement’s seafood is tops. Both he and his wife, Lisa, are dedicated and passionate about fresh, local, healthy, sustainable, natural foods. T. Paul’s Supper Club is a sophisticated quirky spin-off of Astoria’s long-time favorite, T. Paul’s Urban Café. A lunch and dinner bistro-style menu includes seafood quesadillas, salads, sandwiches, pastas and sweet potato fries. Eat at sidewalk tables or inside at Astoria Coffeehouse & Bistro for lunch, dinner and breakfast (Danish Aebleskivers with your eggs Benedict, anyone?) The food and coffee here (hot chocolate with cardamom!) is always fresh, always good. The Bridgewater Bistro’s stunning interior competes with the dramatic river view. Try sampling the inventive small plate tapas or indulge in a local favorite, “coquilles St. Jacques” (baked scallops and mushrooms in a white wine cream sauce). Cocktails, beer on tap and plenty of wine choices here. For a terrific selection of regional and international wines, check out The Cellar on 10th. You’ll find colorful locals at the tiny, eclectic Columbia Café serving up chilis, fresh seafood, and the place for breakfast (until 2 p.m.) – crêpes, scrambles (lox with lacy potatoes!), freshbaked bread and homemade jellies (garlic, jalapeno …). It’s cash only and service can be slow, but yum!
Experience a touch of history near the site of the original Fort George, where Blue Scorcher shares a historic building with Fort George Brewery and Public House.
story continued next page Photo above left is Bridgewater Bistro, photos at right from top are Blue Scorcher Bakery and Clemente’s.
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Now for something different: Drina Daisy. Fordinka Kanlic cooks Bosnian “comfort food” while her husband, Ken Bendickson, cheerily greets and enlightens guests on menu items and the mostly unfamiliar beer, wines and spirits. Arrive early for the succulent roasted lamb (Jagnejetina na Rostiflju). No fancy sauces or spices, it’s out-of-this-world delicious, paired with a full-bodied red Dingac, “Croatia’s most famous wine.” Worn out from all that eating? Besides the riverfront hotels, you can opt for many of the charming hillside Victorian bed and breakfast inns like the “shabby chic” Clementine’s or the Spartan no-frills Commodore Hotel and the more luxurious vintage Hotel Elliott downtown. Gearhart’s Fitzgerald Cottages or Gearhart Ocean Inn beckon, charmingly done in breezy décor that is just right for the beach. (Plus wonderful linens.) Walk from your lodging to Pacific Way Bakery and Café or Gearhart Grocery for picnic fare. Head to McMenamin’s Sand Trap restaurant at the golf course for the best milkshake ever, a Terminator stout-chocolate combo. Really. Love Mexican food? The Stand in Seaside. Don’t be discouraged by the unassuming exterior. Seaside’s McKeown’s for breakfasts, lunch or dinner, a friendly bar scene and a live (choose your own) crab tank. Across the street is the hip, yet casual and friendly, Yummy Wine Bar & Bistro with a tantalizing menu and excellent wines. Rest at Inn of the Four Winds facing the ocean (with gas fireplaces) on the north promenade. Why one must buy sweets at the beach is a mystery, but check out The Buzz featuring everything from saltwater taffy, fudge, and jellybeans to fancy truffles, retro sodas and chocolate-dipped bacon and Twinkies. Visit Phillips for more candy and must-have carmelcorn. Mesmerized by the full moon illuminating the ocean and Haystack Rock, I couldn’t leave my small balcony. I finally got too cold and succumbed to reading in bed beside the fireplace ablaze. Such were the woes one winter night at The Ocean Lodge in Cannon Beach. It could well have been The Stephanie Inn next door, with nearly the same view, yet more deluxe surroundings. Both are fine places to be any time of year – and walking distance to Waves of Grain Bakery. Even if one is staying elsewhere, such as the nearby Inn at Cannon Beach or the historic Cannon Beach Hotel, The Stephanie Inn’s fine, romantic prix-fixe dinners are available to nonguests. A yellow cottage is home to Newmans at 988, owned by chef John Newman, an inspired epicurean master. The lightly seared foie gras is divine, as are the Dungeness crab cakes. No creative fooling around, just delicate, creamy, exquisite crabby cakes. Watch for his new restaurant opening downtown. Right up there in foodie bliss is newcomer Irish Table and EVOO Cannon Beach Cooking School, which offers wine dinners and cooking demonstrations in an airy space to savor regional wines paired with Bob Neroni’s exceptional food. Castaways Tiki Hut for cocktails and Caribbean flavors, Season’s Café & Deli for sandwiches (albacore tuna melt!), wraps, pastries and Ecola Seafoods restaurant and market for pick-up-and-serve-yourself, fresh-as-it-gets seafood. The Chocolate Café isn’t really a café, offering no food except chocolate-related treats and coffee, walls full of chocolate bars, cases of chocolatey sweets and truffles, hot cocoa and another perfect chocolate milkshake made with melted chocolate.
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Arch Cape, Manzanita, Nehalem, Wheeler The long stretch of beach in Manzanita is empty most of the year, but summer can be bustling with lines at Bread and Ocean Bakery, where everyone wants fresh baked goods, breakfast, lunch and dinner. You can sit at the few crammed-in tables or take your scrumptious food to eat outside, at the beach, or back at your room at the Inn at Manzanita, the secluded, stylish, Coast Cabins (not stereotypical “beach cabins”), or the beachside Ocean Inn. Marzano’s Pizza Pie, eat in or take out. Tucked-away Vino Manzanita is that intimate, delicious place to relax and drink wine and sample tapas while visiting with friends. Great Northern Garlic Company has nothing to do with garlic as far as I can tell, but has condiments, jellies, jams, wine, and gifts. Over the mountain and down to the Nehalem River Valley, you’re in sunshine. Local Native Americans called the area “Hole in the Sky,” as the beach towns both north and south can be socked in with fog or rain and Nehalem and Wheeler are blessed with sun. The area is blessed with amazing restaurants, too: Nehalem River Inn for outstanding dinners, Wanda’s for breakfast (smoked salmon Benedict!), lunch and baked goods too, in a cozy, cutesy cottage. Culinary magic happens at the wee Rising Star Café in Wheeler, just a block away from The Old Wheeler Hotel, a renovated historic gem with large windows overlooking Nehalem Bay. Rooms are upstairs, shops below, including Harrison’s Café which serves a mean biscuits and gravy breakfast and fresh cinnamon rolls and scones. It’s fitting that my trip started in Ocean Park with a childhood friend and ended in Wheeler running into longtime friends from Portland whom I hadn’t seen for months. Perfect that we were all staying at the Old Wheeler Hotel, where we sipped wine, reminisced about our past lives in L.A. and watched the last glow of sun illuminate the bay. Photos at left from top are Newman’s at 988, McKeown’s and Shelburne Inn, photos at right clockwise from top are the Commodore Hotel, Astoria Coffee House and the Lumberyard.
Go to discoverourcoast.com
On your computer or mobile device to rate your favorite restaurant/theater/lodging
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Welcome to the North Coast And Tax-free Outlet Shopping! FEATURING NIKE, PENDLETON, CARTER’S, EDDIE BAUER,
(sizz ah gee)
OPEN DAILY FOR CONVENIENT ONE-STOP SHOPPING, SALON SERVICES, JAPANESE DINING, AND FREE DAILY WINE TASTING
AND MORE
At The Beach In Seaside, Oregon Save 20%-70% off regular tax-free retail prices on designer labels and brand-name merchandise. Our free coupon book is Available at the Wine & Beer Haus or you can download offers from our website.
Clothing • Shoes Accesories • Artwork
503.368.7573 • Manzanita, OR On Laneda Ave between 4th & 5th www.syzygymanzanita.com
Another Great Reason to Come to the Beach
• 2nd Annual REAL LEWIS & CLARK STORY
• 8th Annual Topsey Turvey Shanghaied
APRIL 12-MAY 5, 2012
• 4 Annual Junior Shanghaied th
JUNE 2-24, 2012
SEPT. 28 & 29, 2012
Melodrama and Comedy for the Whole Family
• 28th Season of Shanghaied in Astoria
• 4th Annual ASOC Fall Production OCT 11-27, 2012
• 6th Annual Scrooged in Astoria
JULY 12-SEPT 8, 2012
DEC 6-22, 2012
503.325.6104
Tickets online @
129 W. Bond St • Astoria www.astorstreetoprycompany.com
REGULAR HOURS: SEPTEMBER-MAY Monday-Saturday: 10:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M. Sunday: 10:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M. SUMMER HOURS: JUNE-AUGUST Monday-Saturday: 9:00 A.M. to 9:00 P.M. Sunday: 9:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M.
SEASIDE FACTORY OUTLET CENTER 1111 N. Roosevelt at 12th Ave. & Hwy. 101 Seaside, OR ÊÊxäΰǣǰ£ÈäÎÊUÊÜÜÜ°Ãi>à `i ÕÌ iÌðV
HOME OF THE SEASIDE SHIPPING CENTER AN AUTHORIZED UPS OUTLET, WE OFFER MOST UPS SERVICES. WE PACK AND SHIP FOR YOU ALL IN ONE STOP! OPEN 9:00 TO 4:00 MONDAY THROUGH FRIDAY. TO ENSURE SAME-DAY PICKUP, PACKAGES MUST
38 OUR COAST
Family owned & operated since 1966
We are a full-service propane company where you will find... • Rent and install propane tanks • Tanks from 50-1,000 gallons • Gas Appliance System Check • Fireplaces • Propane Heaters (space or whole house) • On-Demand Water Heaters • Gas appliance installations
• High efficiency L.P. furnaces • Other Indoor and Outdoor Products • RV Parts and accessories • RV and Vehicle propane fill station • RV Dump Station • RV Pull Thru from Pacific Highway or Washington Ave North
1318 Pacific Hwy North • www.propanelongbeach.com Schedule an appointment online today! Visit our website or call us toll free at
888-895-5509 Propane • RV Parts • Dump Station
Check out the new show room featuring Blaze King, Monessen, Empire and Rinnai gas appliances
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Chef/Owner Lalewicz has “food angels singing in the kitchen” ~ NW Palate
Making sweet memories Ma in Cannon Beach for the last 49 years!!
TIONS TWOyL&OcoCnA vienient) ((easy
Downtown Cannon Beach & Seaside Outlet Mall
Freshest Homemade: Saltwater Taffy Chocolates Caramel Corn Caramel Apples & MORE!!
R E TA I L M A R K E T
Wedding Treats & Gift Baskets Available! We can ship candy directly to you!
Check us out on Facebook for updates, specials & photos
OPEN Everyday of the Week 8 am to 5 pm May thru September
360-642-3773
On the Docks in Ilwaco
Covered Heated Deck Peninsula’s Only Display Kitchen www.depotrestaurantdining.com 1208 38th Place
256 N Hemlock • Cannon Beach • Seaside Outlet Mall 503-436-2641 •www.brucescandy.com
(on the Seaview Beach approach)
360-642-7880
We Routinely Treat: • Infections • Minor Burns • Cuts & Contusions • DOT & Sports Physicals • Colds & Flu • MVA’s • Bronchitis & Pneumonia • On The Job & Sports Injuries Keith Klatt, MD Mike Meno, PA Sally Baker, PA
L ife hap p en s! T hat’s w hy w e’re here.
Open 7 Days A Week! Walk-Ins Welcome A sto ria
503-325-0333
2120 E xch an g e Street, Su ite 111 H o u rs:9A M - 7P M
G resh am
503-666-5050
2850 SE P o w ell V alley R d. H o u rs:8A M -9P M
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Appointments Are Gladly Accepted! OUR COAST 39
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Snug pubs •BY DWIGHT CASWELL Even on those delightful sunny days of summer on Our Coast there is likely to be a mist, and fog marching in after sunset. What better conditions to raise a pint than in a local brew pub?
Astoria has three brewpubs, and each one has its own personality. On the east end of town, you can down a Dead Guy Ale, the favorite pint at Rogue Ales Public House, which makes an incredible selection of beers and ales with such monikers as Voodoo Bacon, Old Crustacean and Chatoe Rogue OREgasmic. Located on Pier 39 in the old Bumble Bee Tuna cannery (where the motto was “Work Is Our Joy”), you can sit inside or out (in a covered area protected from the prevailing winds) and enjoy a fine view of Astoria and the moving panorama of the Columbia River. You might order one of the Rogue’s famous Kobe burgers or beer crust pizzas, and when you’re through, walk through the back door, where you can buy live crab in season. There’s also a beautiful 1927 motor launch boat on display, and if you push on a little farther and turn right, you’ll come to a collection of antique fishing vessels and a small cannery museum. A short drive back to town, and you’ll find the Fort George Brewery and Public House, which is the informal headquarters of the
40 OUR COAST
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local arts community. The Fort has been the official pub for Astoria’s music and film festivals, and the amazing chalkboard beer lists are by artist Darren Orange. You can have a beer at a table next to the brewery; you’re separated from the tanks by glass, but somehow the intriguing aromas seem to seep into the main room. Best known for its Vortex IPA, the brewery also makes Panamax Porter, named for the largest bulk carriers that ply the Columbia, and some unusual and excellent fruit beers – they sound strange, but try one! You may wonder, as you gaze at the chalkboard above your head, how a stout came to be named “Cavatica.” The brewer has an affinity (you’ll have to ask) for Araneus cavaticus, the barn spider made famous in “Charlotte’s Web.” Fort George recently installed a canning line and its beer is exported as far away as distant Portland. Located next to the Blue Scorcher Bakery Café, it’s possible to move from an excellent breakfast to a tasty lunch and a selection of superb beers with a commute of just a few feet. Astoria’s down-home family-friendly pub is The Wet Dog. If you look to the right as you walk in the door, you’ll see where the beer is brewed, and the interior is decorated like an old West town. From your table, you can look out on the Astoria anchorage; with luck you’ll catch a pilot boat transferring a pilot to or from a vessel. The beer is excellent, as is the food. There’s a great selection of burgers, and on Fridays the huge fish and chips plate is the best deal in town. The small stage offers entertainment from folk music to belly dancers. Brewpubs seem to compete for the most unusual and witty names for their ales, bocks, dortmunders, stouts and weissbiers, and The Wet Dog may be ahead in this competition. Take, for example, its most popular beer, Bitter Bitch Imperial IPA, or the second most popular beer, Old Red Beard Amber. Other names include Strawberry Blonde, Da Bomb Blonde, Volksweissen, Poop Deck Porter and Bad Ass Stout. If you’re confused by the nomenclature, just order a sampler tray: four-ounce samples of any five beers on tap. Astoria doesn’t have a monopoly on brewpubs. Twenty-five miles south in Cannon Beach, there’s Bill’s Tavern and Brewhouse, where the brewery is above your head, on the top floor of the pub. Family-friendly and more often crowded than not, the wait can be long, but worth it, with good beer and food (especially the burgers and fish and chips). Typically, Bill’s serves half a dozen beers, with the Duckdive Ale and Evil Twin IPA being clear favorites. Most of the brews are seasonal, and you’re sure to find unusual offerings. Whether it’s sunny day or a gray one, any one of the coast’s brewpubs is a satisfying place to have a pint and watch the world go by.
Photo on left is Bill’s Tavern and Brewhouse in Cannon Beach. Photos at right from top are blown glass tap handles created by Fernhill Glass Studio in Astoria at Fort George Brewery and Public House; the brewery room at Fort George Brewery and Public House, Fort George Brewery and the Wet Dog partnered to create a Goonies beer (Truffle Shuffle Stout), available only during the 25th anniversary of the movie filmed in Astoria; the canning line at Fort George.
Rogue Ales Public House 100 39th St., Astoria, (503) 325-5058 Fort George Brewery and Public House 1483 Duane St., Astoria, (503) 325-7468 The Wet Dog Café 144 11th St., Astoria, (503) 325-6975 Bill’s Tavern and Brewhouse 188 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-2202
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TERVETULOA -- WELCOME WELCOME TERVETULOA w ith Captain Christopher Lloyd
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503-325-5720 1-800-851-FINN (3466)
101 18th St SE, Long Beach WA 98631 Phone: 360-642-3442 Fax: 360-642-3460 www.davita.com
open 7 days a week www.finnware.com info@finnware.com
2010 Best NW Winery 2011 Winery to Watch OPEN ALL YEAR ‘ROUND
AHAB OUTDOOR WARNING SYSTEM During a routine TEST of the system, the siren will play the Westminster Chimes followed by a voice message. Upon issuance of a TSUNAMI WARNING the siren will play a wail sound and a voice message will follow advising a tsunami warning has been issued.
The AHAB outdoor warning system is tested on the first Monday of every month at noon.
Pacific County Emergency Management Agency 360-875-9340 • 360-642-9340 P0 Box 101 • 300 Memorial Drive South Bend, WA 98586 http://www.co.pacific.wa.us/pcema
• Spacious, clean, comfortable modern rooms • In-room coffee, tea and refrigerators. Microwave by request. • Guest laundry facilities • Small pets welcome • Wi-Fi available • Kitchen Units • Color TV • Direct Dial phones • Hospitality room with kitchen
daily 11-6
DINING lunch daily 11-2 dinner Friday & Saturday 4-8
(May be reserved for special occasions or meetings)
TOURS
• Economy, group and winter rates
on request
360-648-2224 In scenic Ilwaco, where the Columbia River greets the Pacific Ocean For Reservations Only
1-800-576-1032 P.O. Box 776, 126 Spruce • Hwy. 101 ILWACO, WA 98624
(360) 642-2387
www.heidisinnmotel.com
42 OUR COAST
TASTING
Ha l fw a y b etw een W est p or t a n d Ab er deen
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The Goonies tour:
In Astoria visit some of the places the movie was filmed Oregon Film Museum 732 Duane St., Astoria
Flavel House Museum 441 Eighth St., Astoria
Lower Columbia Bowl 826 Marine Drive, Astoria
John Warren Field 19th and Exchange streets, Astoria
Astoria Coffee Company 304 37th St., Astoria The Goonies House 368 38th St., Astoria
Ecola State Park Off U.S. Highway 101, two miles north of Cannon Beach
Take a
Goonies pilgrimage
It may have one of the largest cult followings of any film ever made. And Our Coast is the center of it all. •BY DWIGHT CASWELL
I
f you are reading this in Astoria, you are at the heart of the Goonies phenomenon. You are at cult zero, the Goony (yes, the singular is spelled that way) Mecca, and you may be mere yards from one of the holy sites to which cult members trek in order to be photographed venerating the jail or doing the Truffle Shuffle, which is a sort of devotional dance of the Goonies cult. Over the years, Astorians have seen their share of movies filmed in and around the town. After all, who can forget “Kindergarten Cop,” “Short Circuit,” “Free Willy,” “Benji the Hunted” or “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles III”? But all of these films followed “The Goonies.” The only thing filmed in Astoria previous to it was a 1962 episode of “Route 66.” In the summer of 1984, the word around town was that “Steven Spielberg is coming to Astoria,” according to Mick Alderman in his book, “Three Weeks With The Goonies.” At the time, Alderman was a 19-year-old filmmaker wannabe (he has just released his latest feature, “Crimps”). “Movie mania had struck the area,” Alderman says. “They eventually got it straight that Donner was directing, not Spielberg [Spielberg is credited with writing the story and executive producing] ... and a house on 38th Street was being restored and would serve as a primary location for the shoot.” That house, now the “Goonies House,” is one of the objectives of every Goonies pilgrimage, and neighbor Will Caplinger calls himself the “direction giver.” “People often park in front of our house,” he says. “It’s a narrow street, and some people just stop in the middle, blocking traffic, and walk up to the house. Other people drive up to the house, despite the ‘no cars’ sign.” There’s one sure way to determine if a film has reached cult status: Do the
stars keep returning to the Holy Ground? That’s exactly what happened in Astoria in the summer of 2010, on the 25th anniversary of the film’s release, when thousands of people wore ruts to the Goonies House, visited the jail and partied in the local clubs. Among those attending were director Richard Donner, Sean Astin (Mikey), Joe Pantoliano (Francis), Curtis Hanson (Mr. Perkins, the richest man in town), Corey Feldman (Mouth) and of course Jeff Cohen (Chunk, he of the Truffle Shuffle, now slimmed down and a Hollywood entertainment lawyer). Like the cast and crew, The “Goonies House” Goonies fans from literally all is one of the objectives over the world have been takof every Goonies pilgrimage, ing a Goonies vacation to the where some fans do the Oregon Coast. Begin your (midriff-baring) Truffle Goonies vacation at the Oregon Film Museum. Don’t be Shuffle in front of the house. alarmed when you get there. It sits in the parking lot of the courthouse and looks a lot like a jail, because that’s what it used to be. In fact, it is the jail that appears in “The Goonies,” and its largest exhibit is, as you might expect, about that particular movie. From there, you can stop in at other featured sites including the Flavel House Museum, Lower Columbia Bowl, John Warren Field and Astoria Coffee Company on your way to the Goonies house near 38th and Duane streets. Please take pity on the residents; how would you like to live in a house where thousands of people do the Truffle Shuffle by your front gate?
OUR COAST 43
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It’s not just health care,
it’s how we care. ™
www.providence.org/northcoast
The World Kite Museum is one of two in the Western Hemisphere. Its exhibits include kites from around the world, from the antique past and from the present and future where the kite is a “green� source of power.
–– What You’ll See –– • Bold heroes and story characters on kites from Japan • Delicately painted Chinese silk kites • Kites that saved lives in WWII • Videos of various Asian kite fighting celebrations • Paper & plastic kites from HiFlyer times • Kites used to lift, pull, and reach.
–– Museum Store –– • Kites of all kinds • Books about kite making, flying & history • Postcards, T-shirts, jewelry & posters
Admission Includes Kite Making!
303 Sid Synder Drive, Long Beach • 360-642-4020
www.worldkitemuseum.com Open Daily, 11am to 5pm May-September Open Friday - Tuesday 11am to 5pm October-April
44 OUR COAST
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Next t o Go-Kar the Downto t s L o n g B wn each
Apollo Inc.
B ik e s , S u rre y s & Mopeds
“These are a blast, too!”
Apollo Inc.
G o K a rt s & B u m p e r K a rs
@ the Sid Sn light: y Pacific der & Hwy
“WHAT A RUSH! “HOW EXHILARATING!” “WE RIDE EVERY TIME WE’RE IN LONG BEACH AT LEAST ONCE!”
Don’t Miss The Fun!
Don’t Miss The Fun!
Ride at your own risk! • Long Beach Moped, Bicycle & Surrey Rentals • On the Sid Snyder Drive, Beach Approach in Long Beach, Washington • OK To Ride On The Beach
Ride at your own risk! • Krazy Kars Air-cushioned bumper cars • Since 1961, families have been enjoying Southwest Washington’s largest go-kart attraction
www.longbeachmopeds.com 360-642-4260
www.longbeachgokarts.com 360-642-2904
Driver’s License Required for Mopeds
2 Go-kart Tracks • Air-cushioned Bumper Kars
TIRE WHEELS BATTERIES ALIGNMENT SHOCKS BR AKES SUSPENSIONS SUDDEN SERVICE AND MORE!
™
WARRENTON 1167 SE MARLIN AVE
503.861.3252
WWW.LESSCHWAB.COM M
OUR COAST 45
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A Value Seeker’s Paradise
CRANBERRY C R A N B E R RY RV PARK PA R K 50+ PARK
Boreas Bed and Breakfast Inn Retired? Full-Time RV’er? Over 50? We specialize in Full-Time RV’ers and our park is comfortable for Senior Retirement Living!
• Spectacular ocean views • Five Romantic Suites • Private hot tub by the dunes • Gourmet breakfast included • Concierge Service • Seattle KING5 TV’s Best of the Northwest Great Escapes “Top 5 Best B&B” for three years running
look for seasonal specials online! Find Boreas Inn on Facebook– BOREASINN.COM become a 607 OCEAN BEACH BOULEVARD N. “Fan”!
LONG BEACH, WA 98631 360-642-8069 • 888-642-8069
Daily, Weekly & Monthly Rentals
E xperience the Peninsula’s
Top Prices for Gold & Silver Estate Jewelry, Antiques & Art Classic Platinum or Gold Wedding Rings Quality & Authenticity Guaranteed Custom or Antique
Best selection on the coast!
Info & Reservations 360-642-2027 1801 Cranberry Road Long Beach, WA
at the Liberty Theater 332 12th, Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-7600 email: bookscout@jonathonsltd.com
www.cranberryrvpark.com
For All Your Real Estate Needs 360-642-3223
604 Pacific Ave. So. Long Beach, WA
360-665-2761 31605 “I” St. Ocean Park, WA
www.anchor-realestate.com sales@anchor-realestate.com
46 OUR COAST
historic spirit in this 1913 Craftsman home. Nestled on a quiet street, just a short walk to the ocean beach, shopping and restaurants.
C
ountry breakfast served amidst period furnishings and Indian artifacts. 26301 ‘N’ Place • P.O. Box 1549 Ocean Park, WA 98640 360.665.6993 • 866.665.6993 stay@georgejohnsonhouse.com www.georgejohnsonhouse.com Please contact us by email or phone for seasonal & special rates
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EMERALD HEIGHTS APARTMENTS 2 & 3 BEDROOM APARTMENTS, DUPLEXES & HOUSES OPEN Y EA ROUND RMAY -SEPT. 10 OCT.-AP
am-6pm
RIL
10am-4p
m
Military Museum & Gift Shop • Memorial Rose Garden Living History Programs • Self-Guided & Guided Tours • Underground Batteries
THE FRIENDS OF OLD FORT STEVENS, a non-profit organization, supports the maintenance and preservation of the Ft. Stevens Historical Area. Much of our funding comes from proceeds from the museum store, guided tours, special events and camp wood sales.
1863
1947
503-861-2000 Ft. Stevens State Park, Hammond, OR $ 5 State Park Day-Use Fee
OREGON’S DEFENDER Museum Store Website www.visitftstevens.com • foofs@teleport.com
An affordable place to call home • Floor plans for every need
⁄2 OFF
1
First Months Rent AMMENITIES INCLUDE: • A very active Neighborhood Association Community Policing Project. • City buses that run throughout the complex. • Well-staffed Child Care Center. • Playground areas. • Covered school bus stops for the children. • On site laundry facilities.
RENT INCLUDES WATER, GAS, ELECTRICITY, GARBAGE Astoria, OR • Call 325-8221 EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY
for more information
Mon - Fri: 9-5 No appointment necessary
THE SHIP INN
BRITISH PUB & RESTAURANT Patio • Lounge • Fireplace • River View Fish & Chips • English Specialties OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK CLOSED ON TRADITIONAL HOLIDAYS
#1 2nd St., Astoria • (503) 325-0033 H A N D IC A P P E D A C C E S S
OUR COAST 47
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Tee it up!
Going green never looked better
Travel a 70-mile span, from Manzanita to the north end of Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula, and you’ll find eight golf courses waiting to elate or humble you.
•BY MARILYN GILBAUGH
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M
anzanita Golf Course is known to locals as the best walking course on the coast. In the 1960s, owner Ted Erickson, a nongolfer, and his best buddy, Harry Paulson, a local golf legend, decided to build a course on some of Erickson’s property. With a stack of golf magazines provided by Paulson and equipment by Erickson, the twosome earmarked nine of golf’s most famous holes and, magazine shots in hand, set about creating them. Both Erickson and Paulson have gone to the Big Course in the Sky, but Steve Erickson, Ted’s son, keeps the story alive and the course in great condition. The fifth hole is the Manzanita course’s “signature” hole. Its tee box is elevated about 60 feet above the fairway and has an outstanding view, looking up at Neahkahnie Mountain. Twenty miles up the highway, the Seaside Golf Club, established in 1923, winds along the Necanicum River with nine holes of good family play, a forgiving course for beginners. Seaside is the most accessible course on the coast, with lower greens fees and typically little waiting time. One family has held an “allages play” summer tournament at the club for more than 50 years. And for a little more local golf lore, ask head honcho Wayne Fulmer about Marilyn Monroe. Grab a great burger in the clubhouse – make sure you don’t miss Stephanie’s homemade potato chips. They alone will bring you back. The Gearhart Golf Course is the most storied course in the Columbia-Pacific region. Dating to 1888, it has the reputation of being the oldest course west of the Rockies. The striking detail about the Gearhart course is its great condition. There was an era in which the fairways weren’t watered during the summer. Thus a duffer got what was known as “the Gearhart roll.” But today, the course is manicured, and its new managers, Greenway Golf, have made their reputation on turf management. Even though the Gearhart course lost some 300 trees during the 2007 storm, the shore pines that line its fairways are an eye-catching accent. “The most majestic point on the course is the ninth tee box, looking down the fairway and straight into the coast range.” says Gearhart regular Al Richardson.
Astoria Golf and Country Club is known as “the St. Andrews of the Pacific.” Changing wind directions and speed create an almost daily different tactic and game plan to manage one’s way around the course.
story continued next page
Courses on Our Coast Manzanita Golf Course 908 Lakeview Drive, Manzanita, (503) 368-5744. Reservations recommended. Nine-hole public course, open year-round Practice putting green, pro shop, golf club and pull cart rentals. Snack shop open during summer season.
Seaside Golf Course 451 Avenue U, Seaside, (503) 738-5261. Reservations not necessary. Nine-hole public course, open year-round Practice putting green, pro shop, golf club, pull- and power cart rentals. Full-service restaurant and bar open seasonally for breakfast and lunch.
Gearhart Golf Links 1157 N. Marion Ave., Gearhart, (503) 738-3538. Reservations recommended. 18-hole public course, open year-round Practice putting green, pro shop, golf club, pull- and power cart rentals. Full-service restaurant and bar open year-round for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
The Highlands Golf Club 33260 Highlands Lane, Gearhart, (503) 738-5248. Reservations recommended. Nine-hole public course, open year-round Practice putting green, pro shop, golf club and pull cart rentals. Snacks, soft drinks and water available.
Astoria Golf and Country Club 33445 Sunset Beach Lane, Warrenton, (503) 861-2545 18-hole private country club, open year-round Driving range, practice chipping and putting greens, full-service pro shop, private full-service restaurant and bar open year-round for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Lewis and Clark Golf & RV Park 92294 Youngs River Road, Astoria, (503) 338-3386. Reservations not necessary. Nine-hole public course, open year-round Golf club, pull- and power cart rentals, water available.
Peninsula Golf Course 9604 Pacific Highway, Long Beach, Wash., (360) 642-2828. Reservations recommended. Nine-hole public course, open year-round Pro shop, golf club, pull- and power cart rentals, café open year-round for lunch.
Surfside Golf Course Photo on left is Manzanita Golf Course, above photo is Gearhart Golf Links
31508 J Place, Ocean Park, Wash., (360) 665-4148. Reservations not necessary. Nine-hole public course, open year-round Driving range, practice putting green, pro shop, golf club, pull and power cart rentals, café just off premises serving lunch.
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But it’s not all cosmetic. “Gearhart’s sand traps are probably the ugliest of any course I’ve played,” says Richardson. The Highlands Golf Course is the youngest of these courses, opening in 1987. It is also the only North Coast course with a bonafide ocean view, it’s located just a couple of miles north of Gearhart, and its nine holes with no par fives means short games are what it’s all about. The fifth tee box is a pedestal from which to view the Pacific. Some 40 feet below the tee lies the green. It is common to see bird life while playing The Highlands, including pheasants and shore birds. Highlands is the home of DiscountDansGolf.com, which claims to offer the lowest prices on golf equipment in the United States. “Great values, great prices, great service. It’s just a game we love to play,” says club manager Matt Brown. Astoria Golf and Country Club, founded in 1923, is known as “the St. Andrews of the Pacific.” It is a private 18hole course, built on sand dunes. Changing wind directions
and speed create an almost daily different tactic and game plan to manage one’s way around the course. Jeff Leinassar has won 10 club championships and five Oregon Coast Invitational titles. He says: “The many sand dunes which are part of the landscape create many different lies, angles and shots for all skill levels.” In its 102nd year, the OCI is the oldest golf tournament in the Pacific Northwest, showcasing the best local talent and players from Portland and beyond every July. Club memberships are available. The Lewis and Clark Golf and RV Park is a curiosity on the other side of Youngs Bay from Astoria. In a rural setting with country flavor and affordable rates, it is open yearround. Seven of the greens are made up of silica and sand; two are grass. Across the Columbia River, in Long Beach, Wash., the Peninsula Golf Course offers nine holes with no sand traps. But frequent rain keeps the ponds filled on nearly every hole, and watch out for “the ditch” that traverses the course and helps keep the grass from becoming waterlogged.
Surfside Golf Course in Ocean Park is a relaxed course with lots going for it, including two long par-5 dog legs and one drive you have to hit over a pond.
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Ilwaco, Wash., resident Cheri Diehl has only golfed for a couple of years, but it’s the support and encouragement of club manager Jim Eaton and his wife Sondra that’s kept her coming back to family-friendly Peninsula. “It’s a fun course – not an easy course, but not difficult,” Diehl says. She calls Eaton “a great instructor ... they’re all so friendly!” The Eatons support a lot of community causes too, including the Fore the Furrballs Golf Tournament that benefits the South Pacific County Humane Society. Fourteen miles north is the Surfside Golf Course in Ocean Park, another nine-hole course. Geese, ducks and deer share the course year-round, as bald eagles soar over the fairways; depending on the time of year, you might spot a bear among the spruce, beach pines and alders that line each hole. Golfer Anne Nixon, who lives two blocks from the course in Surfside, says club manager John Kukula is to thank for how well the course is cared for. “We’ve lost a lot of trees to storms over the past few years,” Nixon says, “but now you can see across a lake and down a fairway to the next green. You never feel hemmed in.” This relaxed course has lots going for it, including two long par-5 dog legs and one drive you have to hit over a pond. Surfside offers black tee markers for the ultra-experienced, and the ninth green is raised. Since 2008, the Ilwaco High School Fishermen, the boy’s golf team, has won the state title three times. “It’s a very fun course to play,” said Ilwaco golf coach Dan Whealdon. “The greens are challenging ... it’s definitely worth the drive!” Surfside is the team’s home course and you can hope a little of the team’s skill will rub off on your clubs everyone knows golfers are a superstitious lot. Scratch player, weekend hacker or somewhere in between, if golf is your game, the North Oregon/Southwest Washington Coast has a match waiting for you. Go for it – you’ll be glad you did.
Go to discoverourcoast.com
On your computer or mobile device for maps, events and more Photo on left, The Ilwaco High School golf team practices at Surfside Golf Course. Photo at right, Mike Maltman of Seaside tees off at the Astoria Golf & Country Club
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COLUMBIA RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM
Museums Day Trip:
From homespun to world-class, you can see it all at Our Coast’s museums. •
BY KATE GIESE
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LEWIS AND CLARK INTERPRETATIVE CENTER
CLATSOP COUNTY HERITAGE MUSEUM 16th and Duane streets, Astoria, (503) 325-2203, www.cumtux.org Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, May through September; 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, October through April $4 adults, $2 youths ages 6 to 17, free for children younger than 6 Estimated touring time: 45 minutes to 1 hour
Exhibits interpret Clatsop County’s history – its Native Americans, early pioneers, immigrants and local industries. Visitors enjoy a fascinating and comprehensive view of this the oldest settlement west of the Rocky Mountains in rugged days gone by. The Clatsop County Historical Society’s archives, housed here, contain more than 10,000 historic photos. Don’t miss: As a nickelodeon plays, belly up to the historic bar and give the roulette wheel a spin at the “Vice and Virtue” exhibit, which recalls Astoria’s distinctly seedy past. Another must-see is a fur trading post with real fur pelts and a fort stockade wall that kids can climb and a flagpole where you can run up a British or American flag – John Jacob Astor’s fur trading post belonged to both countries at different points in history. COLUMBIA RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM 1792 Marine Drive, Astoria, (503) 325-2323, www.crmm.org
Open 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily except Thanksgiving and Christmas $10 adults, $8 seniors, $5 children ages 6 to 17 Estimated touring time: about 2 hours
Marine transportation – from the days of dugout canoes and the great sailing ships that followed all the way to the present – and the rich nautical heritage of the Columbia River and the North Pacific Coast is the theme here. Interactive exhibits serve up history using a combination of cutting-edge technology and historical acquisitions. Don’t miss: In touring the museum and the Lightship Columbia docked alongside it, learn what it’s like to pilot a tugboat, go on a Coast Guard rescue or be in Astoria close to the turn of the 20th century when salmon was king. The Crossing the Bar: Perilous Passage exhibit is guaranteed to get your pulse racing as you watch a never-before-seen video of rough water passages captured while working with the U.S. Coast Guard and Columbia River Bar Pilots during fierce winter storms. COLUMBIA PACIFIC HERITAGE MUSEUM 115 S.E. Lake St., Ilwaco, Wash., (360) 642-3446, www.columbiapacificheritagemuseum.org Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays, noon to 4 p.m. Sun-
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FORT CLATSOP
days $5 adults, $4 seniors, $2.50 youths ages 12 to 17, $1 children ages 6 to 11, free for children younger than 6. Free admission for everyone on Thursdays. Estimated touring time: about 1 hour
The museum houses permanent and temporary exhibits reflecting the crafts and culture of the Chinook Indians (the region’s earliest inhabitants), the heritage of settlers who fished, logged and farmed the area and early exploration as well as the history of the maritime trades. Don’t miss: In Gallery 3, time travel won’t seem so far-fetched an idea when museum patrons take in a church, a grocery store, doctor’s office, tailor’s shop and newspaper office as each might have looked way back when. Outside the museum in the old Ilwaco freight depot building, there’s a 50-foot diorama of the Long Beach Peninsula as it was in 1925. Comparisons to how things look now are inevitable. Just outside the depot, a restored Pullman passenger coach, the Nahcotta No. 10, sits ready for all admirers – a testament to turn-of-the-century workmanship and attention to detail.
Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily $5 adults, $2.50 children ages 7 to 17, free for children ages 6 and younger. To park at Cape Disappointment State Park, you’ll need to purchase a “Discovery Pass” which costs $10 for the day or $30 for a year. Estimated touring time: 1 hour
Perched 200 feet above the Pacific Ocean on the cliffs of Cape Disappointment State Park, the Center tells the story of Lewis and Clark, whose Corps of Discovery reached the mouth of the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean in November 1805. Mural-sized timeline panels guide visitors through their arduous journey, using sketches, paintings, photographs and films. A glassed-in observation deck has fabulous views of the river, headlands and sea. Additional exhibits focus on local maritime and military history. Don’t miss: Depending on the time of year, you can tour the Cape Disappointment and the North Head lighthouses. In good weather, there are talks, walks and other activities led by park staff related to Lewis and Clark, maritime history, native technology, birding and more.
LEWIS AND CLARK INTERPRETATIVE CENTER
OREGON FILM MUSEUM
Cape Disappointment State Park, two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash., (360) 642-3029, www.parks.wa.gov/interp/lewisandclarkcenter
732 Duane St., Astoria, (503) 325-2203, www.oregonfilmmuseum.com Open 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s
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Day, October through April (check website for summer hours) $4 adults, $2 children ages 6 to 17 Estimated touring time: 1 to 1.5 hours
Located in the building that was once the Clatsop County Jail (1914 through 1976) and featured in the opening scene of “The Goonies,” this museum attracts visitors from around the world every year. The official “Goonie Gallery” is located in an old jail cell, chock full of Goonies memorabilia. Don’t miss: Quiet on the set please! Learn what it takes to make a major motion picture. You can actually film your own movie, choosing from three different sets. Re-enact famous scenes or just make something up. Don’t forget to visit the props department or the location scout’s area along the way. Gallery Three is where Post Production occurs – you’ll edit your film, readying it for release – in this case, to the Internet. CANNON BEACH HISTORY CENTER AND MUSEUM 1387 S. Spruce St., Cannon Beach, (503) 436-9301, www.cbhistory.org Open 1 to 5 p.m. Wednesdays through Mondays Free admission Estimated touring time: 30 minutes to 2 hours
The Center features temporary and permanent exhibits that will appeal to history fans, natural scientists and artists alike. Learn about the geologic formation of Haystack Rock some 2,000 years ago or marvel at tide pool critters. Archival photos tell the town’s story from the time of the early indigenous inhabitants (the Tillamooks) to the present day. Don’t miss: You’ll chuckle at film footage that shows a real 1940s family in their Cannon Beach home, “broadcast” on a vintage television set in black and white. Or take in a demonstration of what’s involved in de-rusting old cannons – like the two that were recently found and are being restored. FORT STEVENS MILITARY MUSEUM 100 Ridge Road, Hammond, (503) 861-1671, www.visitftstevens.com Open 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily Free admission Estimated touring time: 2 hours (self-guided walking tour)
Fort Stevens was built in 1862 during the Civil War and remained operational until the end of World War II. Today, Fort Stevens is a 4,200acre park. Inside, in the old war games building, there’s a Military Museum housing a stirring collection of photos and exhibits such as weapons, equipment, uniforms and more depicting periods in the Fort’s history. Put a quarter in a slot and watch how a disappearing rifle works. Outside, much of the park landscape is historic, dotted with eight concrete gun batteries and the remains of a large fortification which constituted a critical component of the nation’s defense for decades. Don’t miss: Explore the different concrete batteries; they all had a specific role to play in the Fort’s defense – for example, the six 10inch rifles on the West Battery were designed to penetrate the exterior armor of enemy ships. Incidentally, not one shot has ever been fired
during combat from Fort Stevens. While many of the Fort’s buildings were demolished, the hospital still stands (an estimated 50 men died of influenza there during WWI), as does the guardhouse, the post chapel and fire station. The old bakery, central power plant and laundry look ghostly, especially when the fog rolls in from the Pacific Ocean. SEASIDE MUSEUM 1570 Necanicum Drive, Seaside, (503) 738-7065, www.seasidemuseum.org Open 8 a.m. to noon Mondays through Saturdays, closed holidays $3 adults, $2 seniors, $1 students, free for children 6 and younger Estimated touring time: 1 hour
Historic offerings span more than 2,000 years, when archeological digs conducted by the Smithsonian Institution in the 1970s upturned artifacts dating from 700 B.C. There’s a worthwhile Native American exhibit, and photographs from museum archives chronicle everything from logging operations to folks at work and play in this early destination spot – Oregon’s first seaside resort town. Don’t miss: Take a few minutes to tour Butterfield Cottage, originally built in 1893 and restored as a 1913 beach cottage and rooming house. There’s an exhibit with a diorama of the Salt Cairn, showing how the Corps of Discovery expedition retrieved salt from the ocean in the Seaside area to preserve food for their journey home. FORT CLATSOP 92343 Fort Clatsop Road, Astoria, (503) 861-2471, ext. 214, www.nps.gov/lewi/planyourvisit/fortclatsop.htm Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily (until 6 p.m. mid-June through Labor Day), closed Christmas $3 adults (16 and older), free for children 15 and younger Estimated touring time: 1.5 to 2 hours, longer if you choose to hike the trail
Step back in time 200 years with a visit to a replica of the fort built by the Lewis and Clark Expedition. As the Corps of Discovery’s winter encampment, Fort Clatsop sheltered 33 people against the relentlessly wet coastal winter weather from December 1805 through much of March 1806. The Visitor Center features an exhibit hall, a theater showing the orientation film “A Clatsop Winter Tale” and a museum store. An interpretive center has a number of interactive exhibits. Don’t miss: Kids will get a kick out of trying to pack a canoe without tipping it, going on a treasure hunt and finding out what the Corps ate during their rainy winter at Fort Clatsop. During December and March, trained volunteers help visitors spot migrating gray whales. Check out the display on shipwrecks, “The Graveyard of the Pacific.” In peak visitor season, rangers clad in period buckskins give demonstrations of things like muzzle loading and shooting, hide tanning and candle making.
Go to discoverourcoast.com
On your computer or mobile device The best calendar of events on the coast.
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Hospital 360-642-3181 Medical Clinic 360-642-3747 Naselle Clinic 360-484-7161 Women’s Health Center 360-642-6498
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Keen on green The Long Beach Peninsula walks the talk
•BY CATE GABLE You don’t have to go to the rain forests of Ecuador to be part of an eco-tour. Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula has some standout options that illustrate everything from alternative energy and green building to innovations for backyard gardeners. Biochar feeds the world “Biochar is a win, win, win,” said Jim Karnofski about his garden experiment. “It can be made from a renewable resource – wood; it reduces carbon dioxide emissions; and it provides for nutrients in the soil.” Biochar, used in the Amazonian rainforest for centuries, is the carbon remains of organic matter that has gone through a pyrolysis process – a fire without oxygen. After the extremely highheat burn, what remains is 90 percent carbon that provides a structure for chemical bonding, fixing nutrients in the soil. On Jim and wife Vera’s 80-acre farm outside of Ilwaco, Wash., the results are amazing. Their chocolately-rich soil grows a wide variety of salad greens, root vegetables, beans, berries, squash, celery, onion and garlic. They’ve got starts in the adjacent greenhouse and compost piles where biochar is mixed before application in the garden. Jim understands biochemistry and if you like, can take you down to the amino acid level of how it works. Come see for yourself or better yet find out from Jim about his next biochar burn. Call the Karnofskis at (360) 642-2029.
Wind power The race to create affordable alternative energy is currently being won by China, but that hasn’t stopped Peninsula citizens from getting into the act. Jason and Lee Knott, with sons Atlas and Kai and great-niece Jade, represent a new generation of eco-pioneers leading the way with green and sustainable energy solutions. In late summer 2011, Knott completed one phase of his dream by raising and securing a half-ton wind turbine, clearly visible to drivers, at 13220 Pacific Highway, Long Beach, Wash. “The turbine generates about 7.5 kilowatt hours per month,” said Knott, “That basically powers all our electrical needs and our computer.” Actually, Knott has had to put the brake on several times. “It’s been generating more power than we expected. It started immediately charging about 1,000 to 2,000 watts in ‘light air,’ blowing between seven to 10 knots.” The Knotts’ “green house” also includes EcoBatt – 55 percent sand and 35 percent recycled glass bottles; a roof array of evacuated solar tubes for hot water and floor heating; and Laminated Strand Lumber – LSL – a composite product known for its strength. To see the wind turbine and check out green building techniques, give Jason a call at (360) 920-5519.
“Wwoofers” in the garden Larkin Stentz of Green Angel Gardens (6807 Sandridge Road in Long Beach) has a sustainable living center with garden plots, a geodesic dome greenhouse, chickens and a wind turbine. In June 2009, Stentz, with community help, installed a Whisper 200 made by Southwest Windpower. The turbine, and storage batteries, generates enough electricity to turn the fans that cool and regulate the temperatures in the greenhouses. Stentz often has international “wwoofers”– worldwide opportunities on organic farms – learning and assisting on the farm. To schedule a tour, call (360) 244-0064.
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Where authors grow like chanterelles
Writers in several genres make Our Coast their home. •BY VALERIE RYAN
O
n Our Coast, where rainy days outnumber sunny ones, reading and writing are indoor sports. Authors are thick on the ground, as valued as chanterelles. At any given time, you’re likely to run into one in the grocery store, the post office or a restaurant, taking a break from their labor. Let’s drop some names. You might find more. Robert Michael Pyle is a lepidopterist (that’s a butterfly expert) and author who has published 12 books and hundreds Coastal of papers, essays, stories and poems. He founded the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation authors in 1974. His book, “Sky Time in Grays River: write Living for Keeps in a Forgotten Place,” was a finalist for the 2008 Washington State Book Award fiction, for General Nonfiction. nonfiction, His latest book, “Mariposa Road: The First fantasy, Butterfly Big Year” was a finalist for the 2011 award in the Biography/Memoir category. It mystery, chronicled his adventures across the continent in romance, 2008, seeking to document as many native butchildren’s terflies as possible – a massive undertaking which a brilliant man, who has a beautiful Santa Claus literature, beard decorating a beatific face, managed to graphic make into a compelling story for nonbutterfliers. novels, Jim Lynch, who lives in Olympia, Wash., but is often here, is a former journalist who has writhome and ten three novels. First was “The Highest Tide,” a garden, coming-of-age story; next came “Border Songs,” the story of a border guard with an uncanny knack science, for unearthing criminals and identifying birds nature along the way. Lynch’s next book will appear on and travel. the 50th anniversary of the opening of the Seattle World’s Fair, where the story is set. Kathryn James, a Cannon Beach resident, has written a “what if?” novel, “The Princess of Cannon Beach,” which speculates about what might have happened had one of the Russian Romanov princesses lived and what adventures she might have had if she had escaped here. An Arcadia Beach neighbor is Terry Brooks, world-class fantasist and international best-selling author, whose popularity places him right behind J.K. Rowling and George R.R. Martin. His Shanarra series is a wondrous world of his creation, well-loved by children and adults.
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A few miles south in Falcon Cove is Jean Auel, author of the Earth’s Children series, the first of which is that perennial favorite, “Clan of the Cave Bear,” with four more following. Craig Lesley, an author who can write about landscape and character equally well, captures the hardscrabble life of the American West. He earned the Oregon Book Award in 2005 for “Storm Riders” and two Pacific Northwest Booksellers Awards. Ursula Le Guin, who maintains homes in Portland and Cannon Beach with her historian husband, Charles, has written novels, poetry, children’s books, essays and short stories, notably in fantasy and science fiction. She has received awards too numerous to mention. For example, her novel, “The Farthest Shore,” won the National Book Award for Children’s Books in 1973. Two other second-home dwellers here on the coast are Dan Fost, author of “Giants,” the ultimate fan book on the San Francisco Giants, and Buzz Bissinger, author of “Friday Night Lights,” that marvelous story about Texas high school football that became a TV show. Brian Doyle lives in Portland and is the editor of the University of Portland’s quarterly magazine. He is an essayist, novelist and a dynamite speaker. He comes to the coast frequently to make us cry, laugh and applaud wildly. His first novel is “Mink River,” the story of a fictional Northwest village. (There is also a talking crow, a nun who tipples a little and a big-hearted story typical of Doyle.) He also wrote “The Grail: A year ambling and shambling through an Oregon vineyard in pursuit of the best pinot noir wine in the whole wild world.” The subtitle won a bet with a fellow author about who could write the longest subtitle. Others you may see are Portland screenwriter Jon Raymond, who scripted “Mildred Pierce,” the recent TV miniseries. He wrote “Meek’s Cutoff,” a film about settlers traveling through the Oregon desert in 1845 who find themselves stranded in harsh conditions – to say the least. And one more connection ... David James Duncan, born near
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Portland and now living near Missoula, Mont., gave us “The River Why,” a meditation on family and fly-fishing. Some say that the river in the novel is the North Fork of the Nehalem River. Coastal authors write fiction, nonfiction, fantasy, mystery, romance, children’s literature, graphic novels, home and garden, science, nature and travel. Perhaps it all began with “Astoria: Anecdotes of an enterprise beyond the Rocky Mountains,” which explores Washington Irving’s impressions from travels in Canada and America as guest of John Jacob Astor’s Northwest Fur Company. But whatever the truth, writers love to capture our sense of place. The most knowledgeable people about books, in addition to bookstore personnel, are librarians. Each has a wealth of information regarding clubs, author appearances and writing groups. Seaside Public Library shows documentary films and brings the filmmakers in to speak about the process and the result. Cannon Beach Library has a Northwest Authors Series that takes place on the second Saturday of each month from September through June. Astoria Public Library has events for babies and moms, toddlers, preschoolers and award-winning storytellers reading for children and adults. Both Seaside and Astoria libraries hold trivia games for those of us who love factoids. The Hoffman Center in Manzanita has a Writers’ Series and holds frequent writer’s workshops. Another place to enjoy the spoken or written word is a tavern or a wine bar. These are moveable feasts, the coastal version of a rave. They pop up sporadically, but check coastweekend.com for listings of when and where you might find an open mic, a poetry reading or a local author reading from his or her manuscript. Two regular occurrences in Cannon Beach are at Lush Wine Bar and Sweet Basil’s Café – both featuring art, music and great food. In Astoria, don’t miss the Voodoo Room, a rockin’ place for everything from open mic poetry and rap battles to heavy metal.
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Edgy, stormy or barely there OUR COAST IS WHERE THE ART IS
Four distinct art cultures thrive in the Columbia-Pacific region. Find them in Cannon Beach, Seaside, Astoria and on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula.
C
BY GARY ADAMS
Cannon Beach was something of an artists’ colony in the 1960s. The arts were a central component of Maurie Clark’s development strategy for the then-sleepy town. Clark kept rents low for artists. That beckoned painters such as Steve McLeod and Frank Lackaff. In 1971, Evelyn Georges opened the town’s first serious gallery, the White Bird. What you’ll find today in Cannon Beach ranges from landscape photography at George Vetter FotoArt to heavy bronze works at Bronze Coast Gallery, delicate handblown glass vessels at Icefire Glassworks to contemporary wall art at Modern Villa Gallery and Native American works at Northwest by Northwest Gallery. If your timing is right, you’ll catch the Stormy Weather Arts Festival in early November, featuring food and music along with art. Or the Spring Unveiling in April, where galleries spotlight new works. A few miles north in Seaside, if it happens to be the first Saturday of the month, enjoy a First Saturday Art Walk downtown; but any day is good for a stroll down Broadway from U.S Highway 101 to the magnificent Seaside beach. The Art Walk’s attractions include Gilbert District Gallery, Isabell Ross and Yummy Wine Bar & Bistro. Gearhart’s art community centers on a historic schoolhouse whose gray shingled exterior is out of a Norman Rockwell painting. The Trail’s End Art Association has transformed the building into a center for top-drawer classes, work shops and exhibits. The association holds a monthly reception to coincide with the Seaside Art Walk.
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The youngest arts scene on Oregon’s North Coast is in its oldest town. Astoria has exploded as an arts community in just the past 20 years. Ricciardi Gallery – Astoria’s first serious commercial gallery – opened in 1988. It is gone, but several galleries have succeeded it. You’ll find contemporary art by emerging and established artists at RiverSea Gallery and nationally eminent work at LightBox Photographic Gallery. Edgy alternative art, often with a touch of whimsy, is at Lunar Boy Gallery. The best opportunity to see all galleries is the Second Saturday Art Walk, where residents and visitors throng the streets at twilight, meeting the artists, mingling with friends and enjoying the art, refreshments and music in the historic downtown core. Clatsop Community College boasts a world-class art faculty including mixed media artist Royal Nebeker, along with an annual student art show that may surprise you. The college’s annual international juried exhibibition, “Au Naturel: The Nude in the 21st Century,” attracts hundreds of entries for artists all over the world.For unique art and crafts, don’t miss the Astoria Sunday Market, running from May to October. Cross the Astoria Bridge into Washington and you’ll enter the realm of artists’ studios throughout the towns of Chinook, Ilwaco, Long Beach and Ocean Park. If yours is a September jaunt, be on the lookout for the Chinook Arts Festival. In IIwaco, galleries and studios including those of watercolorist Don Nisbett line the Port of Ilwaco’s picturesque mooring basin. The Saturday Market at the Port of Ilwaco runs from May through September and hosts a number of art and craft vendors. Award-winning watercolorist Eric Wiegardt makes his home in Ocean Park, and the Peninsula Arts Association mounts seasonal shows featuring the talents of dozens of the area’s most creative residents.
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FR WI EE FI
CEAN PARK RESORT
In the
of Ocean Park under Tall Pines
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Curtain up! Year round
If you find yourself on the Southwest Washington or North Oregon Coast, you have several choices of live theater venues
•BY VALERIE RYAN
Each of these coastal venues is run by and acted in by amateurs, people who are in it for the love of theater. They haven’t quit their day jobs; their passion for theater in all its manifestations keeps them building sets, learning lines and waiting for the curtain to go up. Their enthusiasm is contagious and their shows are remarkably well-done. Treat yourself to a first-rate production while you’re visiting the region. Southwest Washington has two theaters with regularly scheduled seasons: Peninsula Players in Ilwaco and Willapa Players in Raymond. Peninsula Players mounts five shows each year in the River City Theater and offers classes in one-act playwriting and other special events. Thanks to a grant from the Templin Foundation, the Peninsula Players have purchased 100 new chairs for audiences’ comfort. The oldest community theater group in Southwest Washington is the Willapa Players, first formed in 1955 as the Willapa Light Opera Company. They purchased their own playhouse in 1969 and now mount a four-play season: youth theater in the summer and three other seasonal productions.
64 OUR COAST
Pensinsula Players River City Theater, 127 S.E. Lake St., Ilwaco, Wash. (360) 244-0125, peninsula-players.com
Willapa Players Hannan Playhouse, 518 Eighth St., Raymond, Wash. (360) 942-5477, willapaplayers.org
Astor Street Opry Company ASOC Playhouse, 129 W. Bond St., Astoria (503) 325-6104, astorstreetoprycompany.com
Coaster Theatre 108 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach (503) 436-1242, coastertheatre.com
Riverbend Players North County Recreation District, 36155 Ninth St., Nehalem (503) 368-4595, nehalemriver.com/riverbend.htm
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Moving south to the Oregon Coast, you’ll find the Astor Street Opry Company in Astoria, best known for nearly 30 seasons of its original musical melodrama, “Shanghaied in Astoria.” Be prepared to boo, hiss and throw popcorn at the villain, sigh with the heroine and sing along with the cast as sweet but dumb Norwegian Eric Olson tries to escape the clutches of evil cannery owner Max Krooke and his slippery henchman, Sneake. Will he return from being shanghaied to marry cannery heiress Virginia Sweet? Will Mama Olson marry off her four sturdy daughters at the Midsummer Festival? The Opry Company also features a full calendar of shows and events, including a holiday show, a new works festival and an annual children’s theater production. Pier Pressure Productions is a moveable feast, popping up here and there around Astoria with excellent shows featuring talented and dedicated actors. See coastweekend.com for information about where they might be playing. Twenty-five miles south in Cannon Beach is the Coaster Theatre, celebrating its 40th year. A former roller rink, it is now an intimate, comfortable theater putting on seven shows a year plus several special events. The Coaster has garnered kudos for its professional-quality sets, costumes and actors in shows such as “My Fair Lady” and “Never the Sinner.” The Coaster is also the epicenter for town-wide festivals such as Spring Unveiling and the Stormy Weather Arts Festival, presenting concerts and lectures to festivalgoers. Going further south about 15 miles to Nehalem, you will find the Riverbend Players, holding forth at the North County Recreation District Building. They are transitioning from Reader’s Theater to fully staged productions, so you might find a show in either format. No matter where you buy your ticket, you will be entertained, enlightened, amused, gripping the edge of your seat and marveling at the imagination of the playwright, the innovations of the set designer and the expertise of the actors.
The Liberty Theater Another Astoria theater venue is the Liberty Theater, worth seeing even when there is nothing on stage. Tour the theater if you get the chance; there is no other 1920s vintage motion picture palace in Oregon – it was once a Vaudeville house with so much of its original decorative architectural fabric intact. A huge restoration has been under way for several years, resulting in a theater that is truly a showplace. The Liberty’s ongoing season includes concerts, plays, choral presentations, symphony performances and a film festival.
Liberty Theater 1203 Commercial St., Astoria, (503) 325-5922, liberty-theater.org
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Can you dig it? Clamming on Our Coast
•BY CATE GABLE
In the old days, any low tide was open for clamming. It was a time to pile the family into the car to head up the beach. Now that clam tides are meted out by the various state departments, they’ve become an even more special event on the North Coast. Some of the old traditions still survive. Sportsman’s Cannery in Seaview and Ilwaco has been around cleaning, smoking and canning clams (and other fish and shellfish) since 1943. They can take your entire limit and clean and can them for use in chowders, dips and soups all through the winter. (It’s a great alternative to standing in those cold cleaning sheds.) Despite newer clamming guns, those curved and narrow-bladed clam shovels are still the preferred tool for many. And that net bag tied to the belt, though plastic now instead of cord, is still required equipment.
Presentation As any digger knows, clams present in a variety of ways depending on the weather – sun, fog or rain, the temperature, time of year and the tide. Sometimes the clams’ breathing holes are dark punctures, small as dimes; sometimes they are wide dimples barely recognizable from the sandy ripples around them. But stomp or tap your shovel (or gun) on the sand and the hole opens. If clams are close to the surface, you might even see a spurt or hear a suck as the clam begins digging. The closer the clams are to the tide line, the faster they’ll dig. If you clam in the surf between waves, you get one shovel scoop to make your catch – after that your prey is long-gone.
Clams on the menu The thrill starts when the clam dives. A couple shovels full of sand, then down on one knee while you dig in the muck, or a good deep push with the gun generally reveals a gleaming green-shelled razor clam. (Your first 15 clams, no matter the size, must be kept. Don’t forget to have your shellfish license with you.) Egg, flour and panko those freshlycleaned clams and pop them in a hot pan with oil – one and a half minutes on a side – and you’ve got a meal fit for North Coast royalty. Or mince them up and toss them into a potato-based clam chowder. Our family favorite is clam dip: cream cheese, mayonnaise, garlic, clam juice, chopped clams and a little Tabasco and you’re ready for a party.
Lucky days On a good midmorning clam tide – late enough that you’ve had your required caffeine intake – there is nothing more memorable than digging clams. There are, perhaps, clouds billowing over the headlands and clear skies above. You hear the rhythm of the waves (watch out for those sneakers!), an occasional seagull and the excited shrieks of other families on the beach. Sometimes, you just have to stop and look out at the waves rolling in over the smooth, dark sand and say, “How lucky we are to find this bounty, where the shore meets the sea.”
More information/purchase shellfish licenses online: Washington: https://fishhunt.dfw.wa.gov/ Oregon: http://www.dfw.state.or.us/online_license_sales/index.asp
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27
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Ride the Bus and See Pacific County with Us! • Pacific County Courthouse • Centennial Murals • Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center • Fine Museums • The Peninsula’s 28 miles of Beach • Many Fine Restaurants and Shops • The Canneries • Cranberry Bogs • State & County Parks Pacific Transit system routes pass directly by or within easy access of all the fun & historic places of interest . . . NO SERVICE ON THE FOLLOWING HOLIDAYS: • Memorial Day • 4th of July • Labor Day • Thanksgiving • Christmas • New Year’s Day
68 OUR COAST
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Ride the Astoria Riverfront Trolley Schedule: Noon to 7 p.m. every day, Memorial Day to Labor Day (weather permitting). Average round trip is about 1 hour.
Fare: $1 per boarding and ride as far as you like. Or pay $2 and ride all day long. Charter the trolley for $100 per hour.
Where to catch a ride: • Astoria Red Lion Inn •Maritime Memorial (near Bay Street) •Columbia House Condominiums, Third Street •Foot of Sixth Street • Foot of 11th Street • Foot of 14th Street •Columbia River Maritime Museum, foot of 17th St. •East End Mooring Basin, foot of 36th Street • Foot of 39th Street You can also wave $1 to flag the trolley down at any location along the route
Climb aboard – for $1
Downtown, Uppertown, Uniontown – from anywhere in Astoria, you can hear the clarion ding ding of the Astoria Riverfront Trolley’s bell echoing off the hillside.
•BY JERRY OLSON ore than 40,000 riders discovered the magic of the trolley in 2010, and ridership continues to escalate with this gem that follows the Columbia River and the Astoria Riverwalk. There are countless stories to be told about the sights that pass your window. Take a listen: “Just off the trestle in front of The Ship Inn are ballast rocks, visible at low tide. Ships would sail to Astoria to pick up cargo. When they got to Astoria, they unloaded the ballast rocks, and loaded up with seafood, lumber and other cargo and sail off to other ports.” A cadre of volunteers devote their time to manning the controls and describing the details along 2.6-mile trip as it winds its way among shops, museums and the scenic beauty of the area mixed with relics of Astoria’s waterfront past. Your conductor might be a city official, newspaper editor or teacher by day and trolley volunteer on their off hours. “The large object in the river, just opposite Josephson’s Smokehouse, is all that remains of the White Star Cannery, which burned down about 50 years ago. What you see is the cannery’s boiler. The plants are courtesy of seeds brought by the birds which nest there.” A GPS tracker onboard the trolley allows you to monitor its locationon on the Astoria-Warrenton Area Chamber of Commerce’s website, www.oldoregon.com/visitor-info/entry/astoria-riverfront-trolley “All of the flat land you see between the river and the hill is fill. Astoria’s business district was originally built on pilings over the river, including nearly all of the buildings and streets. That helped fan the 1922 fire that burned down the entire downtown area. A sanitary district was formed about 1915 and a seawall built so river sand could be used in as fill.” Visionaries in Astoria 13 years ago took a leap of faith and leased the trolley, known as Old 300, from the city of San Antonio, Texas. Painstakingly restored in a specially-built trolley barn with donations and countless volunteer hours, the 1913 trolley was completely redone from top to bottom with gleaming brass and wood craftsmanship. Now
M
the city of Astoria owns the trolley outright, and the season has been expanded. “The building on the southeast corner of 14th Street and Marine Drive, the building with the rounded corner made of two-story-high glass blocks, is the birthplace of cable TV. On the second floor of this building, inventor Ed Parsons, a partner in a radio station housed here, invented cable television and operated the world’s first cable system. He picked up his TV signal from an antenna on the roof of the Astor Hotel and distributed the signal via cable to people’s homes and businesses.” The narration continues into downtown, featuring the three breweries and one winery, shops, galleries and the Astoria Column, which stands as a sentinel guarding this gateway to the Co- The 1913 trolley, known as lumbia River. As you pass Old 300, was completely through downtown, the Columbia River Maritime Mu- redone from top to bottom seum’s world-class displays with gleaming brass and compete with the giant wood craftsmanship. cargo ships and the rich waterfront heritage; all the while, your view never strays from the water. “The big red building out in the river was a net drying and mending shed or net loft. Natural fiber nets, which often were made in the fishermen’s homes during the winters, needed to be dried between uses. Fishermen could navigate their boats right up under the building, where a hoist would lift the nets to dry. The building was used in the movie ‘Free Willy II.’ Local artist and art professor Royal Nebeker has purchased the building and is renovating it to be artist studios and small shops.” Nearing the end of the line, riders see the transformation of a plywood mill site to a restored pond and neighborhood development. But the track goes on eastward, a remnant of the rails that shipped cargo inland in decades gone by ... How does the trolley turn around? You’ll find out, as Astoria’s sea lion population serenades you. While the trip’s price is nominal, seeing the face of a child as they ring the trolley bell on its route is priceless.
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History
is more than skin deep •BY GARY ADAMS & JOHN GOODENBERGER
Preservation is Astoria’s calling card
A
place can often be measured not by what it builds but what ranean-style atmospheric theater is one of the best preserved and most it saves. Astoria’s history runs deep, and it is reflected in ornate in the region. Used today as a performing arts center, its acoustics the buildings that still remain from its early days. are unparalleled. John Goodenberger, adjunct instructor of historic preserThe restoration directly affected two neighboring buildings. The vation at Clatsop Community College, puts it this way: Hotel Elliott, a fleabag traveler’s flophouse, was converted to a boutique “Our historic structures are almost like an old growth hotel. Wandering through the hotel’s wood-clad lobby takes you back to forest in that we’re not going to get these structures again. Astoria is an a time when first impressions counted. The Astoria National Bank, now unusual community in that it has retained so many of its historic struc- called the Banker’s Suite, was re-envisioned as a ballroom and hightures. To lose them means we would become like so many other places. class gathering space. Both buildings benefit from the Liberty’s yearIt’s that unusual character that draws people to start their businesses here, round cultural events. move here, or to come into the city.” The Fort George building has tapped into another culture: that of a None of this is accidental, however. brewpub. Constructed on the grounds of Astoria’s first trading post, The Capt. George Flavel House Museum, one of the finest exam- the restored brick industrial building also houses an organic bakery. ples of Queen Anne-style architecture in Oregon, is “ground zero” for Its gigantic, monolithic wood beams speak to a long-gone era when Astoria’s preservation movement. Once slated for timber was king. An adjacent beer canning operademolition, the Clatsop County Historical Socirecalls the salmon canneries that once lined Astoria has retained tion ety saved the house in 1950. Now filled with pethe river’s edge. riod furniture, it interprets the life of Capt. Flavel: Today, Astoria’s waterfront features other innomany of its Astoria’s first licensed bar pilot, its wealthiest citvative uses. For instance, the Callender Navigation historic structures. izen and one of its most eccentric. Step inside and Co.’s wood-framed warehouses were renovated for look for all the decidedly Victorian touches – a office and commercial space. The building cluster It’s that unusual steeply pitched hipped roof, balconies and verana covered public area, featuring close-up character that draws offers das, patterned shingles, cutaway bay windows views of river pilots at work. and a three-story octagon tower with a 360-degee The SP&S Railway Depot, owned by the Copeople here. view, where the Captain could keep a keen watch lumbia River Maritime Museum, represents the laton the Columbia. est wave of preservation. Historic preservation students from CCC are The Gothic-style residence of river pilot Capt. Hiram Brown was restoring a former baggage area for use as their workshop space. The nearly destroyed by the city of Astoria’s demolition campaign in the museum is converting a waiting room to house the “Columbia River 1960s. But once again, forward-thinking residents stepped in and re- Ship Chandlery.” Demonstrations of traditional tools used by boat stored the building. Dating from 1852, the Capt. Brown residence is builders are planned, as is a complete renovation of the building. Astoria’s oldest standing house. Interestingly, it was barged to its curWith its Historic Preservation Program, the college is doing its part, rent location in 1862 from Astoria’s Uppertown. It is one of many as Goodenberger points out. “It’s our hope that when a person gradubuildings to be moved from its original setting. ates out of our two-year program, they’ll go off for further education, or Capturing a sweeping view, the Henry Hoefler house represents a get work with local contractors, or start their own businesses. They will new wave of residents. They restore not because the building is in im- not only speak the language of historical preservation, but will have a minent danger, but because preservation is a desired lifestyle. Con- basic knowledge of preservation techniques so that they can be employed structed for a confectioner, the Mission-style house is one of the area’s in the field.” showpieces. So dedicated to saving these historic beauties is Astoria that its City Astoria’s commercial district, destroyed by fire in 1922, is evolving Council even has a special award for historical preservation, the Dr. Edone building at a time. The restoration of the Liberty Theater offered a ward Harvey Historic Preservation Award. The local Historic Landmarks watershed moment. Suddenly, the once down-on-its-luck theater drew Commission gives it out each July and nominations can come from anypatrons into – rather than away from – the downtown core. The Mediter- one. So if you see something you like ... give it your vote!
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2011 Dr. Edward Harvey Historic Preservation Award winners Residential category: Home Apartments 1320 Franklin Ave. Government Institution category: Franklin Avenue Bridge 38th Street and Franklin Avenue
Crown jewels of Astoria’s historic preservation movement Capt. George Flavel House Museum 441 Eighth St. Capt. Hiram Brown residence 1337 Franklin Ave. Henry Hoefler residence 1656 Jerome Ave. Liberty Theater 1203 Commercial St. Hotel Elliott 357 12th St. Astoria National Bank (Banker’s Suite) 1215 Duane St. Fort George Building 1493 Duane St. Callender Navigation Co. buildings (14th Street Pilot Station) 175 14th St. SP&S Railroad Depot (Astoria Train Station) Corner of 20th Street and Marine Drive
Photos from top are SP&S Railroad Depot, Liberty Theater and The Flavel House Museum.
Go to discoverourcoast.com
on your computer or mobile device to take a video tour of the coast
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Dr. J. Stephen Bell walk-ins welcome 360.642.2662 116 Spruce Street
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Our Oregon roots run deep.
Hand-Made Specialty Milk Shakes & Soft-Serve Ice Cream
Mexican Fiesta! every Thursday with Authentic Homemade Cuisine* Sunday Breakfast Buffet including Biscuits & Gravy, Eggs Benedict, Fresh Fruit, Coffee, Juice Milk & More. A LOCAL FAVORITE!
• Nightly Dinner Specials • Outside (Pet Friendly) Dining • Kids Menu Specials • Kite Room - Reserve for your next function
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CLATSOP CARE CENTER
Pirate’s Cove General Store
HEALTH DISTRICT
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A Pirate’s Adventure Awaits! Great Food, Friendly Staff & Pirate Themed Decor Cocktail Lounge • Daily Food & Drink Specials Senior & Military Discount
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72 OUR COAST
947 Olney Ave., Astoria 503-325-4676
CLATSOP IN-HOME CARE
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A view of Tillamook Head and the town of Seaside. Gearhart Lane Hillila Road
N. Marion Avenue
Summit Avenue
N. Cottage Avenue
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26
Necanicum Junction Alan Kenaga/East Oregonian Publishing Co.
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Region in detail, below
1. Seaside Museum & Historical Society — 570 Necanicum Drive, Seaside 2. Saddle Mountain State Park — off U.S. Highway 26, eight miles northeast of Necanicum Junction 3. Tillamook Head — five miles southwest of Seaside 4. Seaside Aquarium — 200 N. Promenade, Seaside 5. Sunset Empire Park & Recreation District — 1140 Broadway Street, Seaside 6. The Turnaround — west end of Broadway Street, Seaside
Beach D rir vvee
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GEARHART OCEAN STATE PARK
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PACIFIC
Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and a links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.
GEARHART Seaside Municipal Airport
Pacific
Seaside-Gearhart region
S. Ocean Avenue
Pacific Way
Municipal areas Cities, townships
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Astoria-Warrenton region
Jetty Lagoon
d Roa
1. Flavel House — 441 Eighth Street, Astoria 2. Liberty Theater — 1203 Commercial Street, Astoria 3. Fort to Sea Trail — Fort Clatsop to Sunset Beach 4. Fort Stevens State Park — 100 Ridge Road, Hammond 5. Clatsop County Heritage Museum — 16th and Exchange streets, Astoria oriaa 6. Columbia River Maritime Museum — 1792 Marine Drive, Astoria 7. Oregon Film Museum — 732 Duane Street, Astoria 8. Fort Clatsop — 92343 Fort Clatsop Road, Astoria 9. Fort Astoria — 15th and Exchange streets, Astoria 10. Astoria Aquatic Center — 1997 Marine Drive, Astoria 11. Maritime Memorial Park — 200 W. Marine Drive, Astoria 12. Uppertown Firefighters Museum — 2986 Marine Drive, Astoria 13. Astoria Column — 1 Coxcomb Drive, off 15th Street, Astoria 14. Lower Columbia Disc Golf Course — at Clatsop County Fairgrounds, s, 92937 Walluski Loop, Astoria
y Jett
Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging ing and things to do.
Clatsop Spit
PACIFIC WAHKIAKUM h. Wash. Ore.
Region in detail
S
CLATSOP CLATSO
TILLAMOO TILLAMOOK
Flavel House
Pacific Ocean
Fort Clatsop
101 01
Liberty Theater
30
Astoria Column at night
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CLARK’S DISMAL NITCH
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Cities, townships
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105
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Astoria
104
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ue nue Avvennu Fraanklin Ave
10 JOHN WARREN FIELD
17th Street
500 feet
Franklin Avenue
30
2 S reet 144th St
N
rand Avenue W. G
6
Asto ria Rive rwalk
Ninth nth St Street reeet
W. Exchange Street
30
Eighth ghth St S t Street
Duane Street
Seventh Street Strreet S
Commercial Street
Sixthh Street Strree
Bond Street
Fifth Street
11
Third Street
W. Marine Drive
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Long Beach Peninsula
WILLAP WILLAPA PA P A NATIONA NA AL NATIONAL WILDLIFE E REFUGE
Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.
S t ackp
PACIFIC PACIF Oysterville Road
WAHKIAKUM WAHKI Wash. e. re re. Ore. O Ore
Oysterv
103
Region in detail
Joe Johns Road
CLATSOP
PACIFIC PINES STATE PARK
Nahcotta
Ocean Park TILLAMOOK
Pacific Ocean
227th Place
LOOMIS LAKE STATE PARK
Oceanside 103
Det Detail, upper upp righ right
North Head Lighthouse
Nahcotta Channel
Leadbetter Point State Park — Ocean Park, Wash., 19 miles north of Seaview Discovery Trail — Ilwaco to north end of Long Beach, Wash. Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum — 115 Lake Street S.E., Ilwaco, Wash. Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center — Cape Disappointment State Park, two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash. 5. Port of Ilwaco — 165 Howerton Avenue, Ilwaco, Wash. 6. Cranberry Museum — 2907 Pioneer Road, Long Beach, Wash. 7. Fort Columbia State Park — U.S. Highway 101, two miles west of the Astoria Bridge in Chinook, Wash. 8. Cape Disappointment State Park — two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash. 9. North Head Lighthouse and Cape Disappointment Lighthouse — within Cape Disappointment State Park 10. World Kite Museum — 303 SW Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach, Wash. 11. Willapa Interpretive Art Trail — near Refuge Headquarters in Willapa National Wildlife Refuge 12. Knappton Cove Heritage Center — two miles past the rest stop north of the Astoria Bridge on Washington State Route 401 13. Appelo Archive Center — 1056 State Route 4, Naselle, Wash.
ole R oa d
1. 2. 3. 4.
LEADBETTE LEADBETTER POINT STATE PARK
1
Sandridge Road
Our Coast 2012:Layout 1
Cranberry Cra R Road
Pioneer Pionee er Road Road
6 Long Beach Lo acch ch Seaviiew Seaview
101
2 North H He Head eadd Lightho ouuse Lighthouse
A recreation in bronze of Capt. William Clark's discovery of a sturgeon on the beach can be seen along the Discovery Trail.
76 OUR COAST
8
Ilwaco IlIlw wac aaco 100
4 9
CAPE DISAP PPO OINT TME MENT ME NT DISAPPOINTMENT STATE EP ARK K PARK Caape C Cape Disappointment ment men en Lighthouse Li ighthouse g
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3:27 PM
Legend State routes
10th Street N.
B
Cen
Trails, walks
ter Rd.
Rivers Lakes, open water
Willapa
Parks and forests
Sixth Street N. Fifth Street N.
Municipal areas
Bay
Oregon Avenue N.
State boundary line ay
Cities, townships 101
Washington Street N.
City, rural routes
Ocean Beach Blvd.
Sou t h
R d.
Be
Pacific Avenue
ik e
103
il
rD
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Ce
n te
12th Street N.
Long Beach
U.S. highways
ery Tra
Bay
Palix R oad
BUSH PIONEER COUNTY PARK
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Our Coast 2012:Layout 1
Second Street N.
World Kite Museum
CULBERTSON PARK
Seventh Stree Street S.W.
hR o ad
10
a
Discovery Trail
N
So ut h
WILLAPA NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE
North Nem ha Ri v
er
er Riv
Nahcotta Channel
Mid dle Ne mh a
World Kite Museum & Hall of Fame
10th Street S.
Boulev evard ard Avenue Avenu nue
m Ne N.
cotta
Third Street S. Marsh’s Free Museum
Oregon Avenue S. Washington Street S.
Nemah
Oceean Beach Blvd.
Second Street S.
Idaho Avenue
ysterville
1103
500 feet
N
em
Lon g Is
Chetlo Harbor
ha
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WNWR NWR WR
H Ocean
Beach Hospital
101
N.
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WNWR W
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Ba Baker Bay
5 N 500 feet
PACIFIC CIFFIC CO.
WASH IN
y
KIA AKUM CO. O WAHKIAKUM
Baker Bay
100 10
d R oa
Detail, lower right
Vall e
E. y S. r Wa arbo er H
Port of Ilwaco
101
Out
Chinook
Lake Street S.E.
Mainn Street Stre treeeett S.W. tre S.W.
W W. S.W S.W. A Second Seecond Avenue
4 401
13
He
Cedar Street N.E.
Elizabeth Ave. N.E.
4
101
Advent Ave. N.E.
oad ver Pa rpa l a R
11
Willapa Bay
Brumbach Avenue N.E.
i le R sel
Na
Ilwaco Ilwa
Grays Bayy Alan Kenaga/East Oregonian Publishing Co.
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Cannon Beach-North Tillamook County region PACIFIC
WAHKIAKUM WAHKIA Wash. ree. Ore. O Ore
Region in detail
CLATSOP
Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map p button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do. o. 1. Haystack Rock Awareness Program — offshore at midtown Cannon Beach 2. Cannon Beach History Center & Museum — 1387 S. Spruce Street, Cannon Beach 3. Ecola State Park — off U.S. Highway 101, two miles north of Cannon Beach 4. Cape Falcon — in Oswald West State Park, 10 miles south of Cannon Beach 5. Neahkahnie Mountain — in Oswald West State Park 6. Oswald West State Park — U.S. Highway 101, 10 miles south of Cannon Beach
Cannon Beach History Center & Museum
Av
e
TILLAMOOK
Haystack Rock
nue
El
m
101
N. Spruce Street
S. Hemlock Stree t
Cannon Beach
LES SHI SHIRLEY RLEY PARK
E. Monroe St.
Pacific Ocean
Cre Road Elk Creek
Sunset Sun unset ett Blvd. Bl Blvd vd. vd d
2 Arbor A b Lane L
Haystack Rock
1
A waterfall on Canyon Creek above Indian Beach in Ecola State Park.
78 OUR COAST
S. Pacific Street
1,000 feet
HAYSTACK HAY YS STACK HILL STATE S TATE PARK
S. Hemlock Street S
N
E. Blv Sun d. set
101
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Cannon Beach Junction
Ra da r
ad
ve Ri
3
Klootchie Creek Campground
Ro
N eha lem
oad Ocean R
cum ni
101
ECOLA A STATE E PARK K
NEAKAHNIEMANZANITA STATE PARK
Manzanita
ad Ro
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Neahkahnie Lake
Ocean Avenue
r
Manz anita
Avenue 101
26
Ro Neca
rney
ad
ity
Pacific Ocean
CLATSOP STATE FOREST
N. Third Street
Beach Street
Cannon Beach
MANZANITA CITY PARK
C
TOLOVANA BEACH STATE RECREATION SITE
Sugarloaf Mountain 2,858 ft.
N
ARCADIA BEACH STATE RECREATION SITE
NEHALEM BAY STATE PARK Nehalem Bay State Airport
1,000 feet
C L AT S O P C O .
HUG POINT STATE RECREATION SITE
Necamey Blvd.
Detail, below left
Tolovana Park
CSF
oa untain R Mo e l Co
CLATSOP STATE FOREST
fic Oc ean
101
d
CLATSOP STATE FOREST
Onion Peak 3,064 ft.
Road Fork N.
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CLATSOP STATE FOREST
CLATSOP STATE FOREST
6 TILLAMOOK STATE FOREST
TILLAMOOK STATE FOREST
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4
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ad Ro
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U.S. highways State routes City, rural routes
Nehalem
Manzanita
Legend
TILLAMOOK CO. 53
No r
th F o
Detail, above right
Nehalem Fallss Campground
Nehalem Bay
0 0.5 1
2 miles
Nehalem Spit
Wheeler 101
d y Roa i Fole Miam
NEHALEM BAY STATE PARK
State boundary line Trails, walks
Roy Creek Park
Rivers oad Foss R
Lakes, open water Parks and forests
Nehale m River
Municipal areas Cities, townships TILLAMOOK STATE FOREST Alan Kenaga/East Oregonian Publishing Co.
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Our Coast Directory Arts, Culture & Entertainment
Community/Civic Organizations
Lodging/Travel
Personal Services & Care
Lodging/Travel
Personal Services & Care
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Arts, Culture & Entertainment
A u gu st 8 -1 2 , 2 0 1 2
W W W .A S T O R IA R E G A T T A .O R G
Health Care
COME VISIT MANZANITA THE RINEHART CLINIC
a place to rejuvenate massage * yoga eclectic boutique elixir bar
COMMUNITY HEALTH CENTER
URGENT CARE • PRIMARY CARE Walk-ins Welcome • Most Insurance Accepted 1406 Bay Avenue, Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-5200 • www.bayavenuegallery.com Join Us on
Follow Us on
Arts, Culture & Entertainment
Chinook
230 Rowe Street • Wheeler, OR 503-368-5182 • 800-368-5182 www.rinehartclinic.org
Lodging/Travel
Featuring juried arts and crafts including: Glass arts: Stained glass, fused glass, Blown glass Oil and Watercolors Pottery Photography Wood sculpture Jewelry and lots more! For more information, or to apply as a vendor, please call Debbie at 360-777-8715 or email inspirations@willapabay.org
Arts, Culture & Entertainment
Pacific County
Manzanita, Oregon
503-368-EDGE (3343) www.oceanedge-vacation-rentals.com Museums
G ar ib ald i M ar it im e M u s eu m
La bor Day W eeken d
Rockaway Beach, OR (503)355-2206 • (800)457-8972 www.OregonSilverSands.com Lodging/Travel
112 Hw y 101 Garibaldi Oregon 503-322-8411 S ta t u e o f C a p t a in Ro bert G ray
O p e n A p r il t h r o u g h No v e m b e r T h u r s -M o n • 10 a m t o 4p m (b y a p p o int m e nt d u r ing t h e y e a r ) G if t S h o p
Personal Services & Care
MUSEUM & VISITOR CENTER
Local and Northwest History Book Store • Maps and Charts www.pacificcohistory.org OPEN EVERY DAY! 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. • FREE
ADMISSION 360-875-5224 • MP 54, Hwy. 101 - South Bend
NEPTUNE TWIN
THEATRES 809 S. Boulevard • Long Beach 1st Run Films/Dolby Sound OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK
360-642-8888
www.neptunetwin.com
80 OUR COAST
503 368 3800 located at 123 laneda in manzanita open 7 days a week www.longevitymanzanita.com
Religious Organizations
Peninsula Church of Christ 7709 Sandridge Rd. • Long Beach
Sunday Morning • 10:30 am (360) 642-7036 • (360) 642-2114 www.peninsulachurchofchrist.com
Religious Organizations
B e th a n y F re e L u th e ra n C h u rch
Historical Society
Arts, Culture & Entertainment
Longevity
Lodging/Travel
“We are a cooperative alliance of the finest licensed massage therapists on the Oregon Coast”
Su n day Sch ool 9:30A M W orsh ip Service 11:00A M 503-325-2925
620 S. Holladay Dr, Suite #3, Seaside (503)738-3343 (EDGE)
(across from Safeway)
Personal Services & Care
451 34th St.,Astoria Religious Organizations
HOTEL ELLIOTT ASTORIA
Classic Lodging
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In Historic Astoria, Oregon! For Reservations Call (877) 378.1924 www.hotelelliott.com
3EƵƌƚƵƌŝŶŐ3tĞůůŶĞƐƐ͕34ƌƚ3Θ3 ŽŶƐĐŝŽƵƐ3>ŝǀŝŶŐ͊ ϱ3 Ϭϯ͘ϯϲϴ͘ϮϭϭϮ3ͻ3ǁǁǁ͘ƌĂŝŶďŽǁůŽƚƵƐŚĞĂůŝŶŐ͘ĐŽŵ ϯ 3 ϱϴϵϬ3ϳƚŚ3^ƚƌĞĞƚ3;,ǁLJ3ϭϬϭͿ͕3EĞŚĂůĞŵ3KZ
Baha’i Faith
“S o p ow erfu l is the lig htof u n ity tha tit ca n illu m in a te the w hole Ea rth” The Ba ha ’iW ritin gs
503-338-0294 or 1-800-22-UNITE www.bahai.org
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Our Coast Directory Religious Organizations
First Baptist Church
Restaurants Food & Beverage
9:45am
Worship
Galley Cafe and Seafood Market
11:00am
503-325-1761
www.fbcastoria.org 7TH & COMMERCIAL, ASTORIA Restaurants Food & Beverage
360-642-4332
151 Howerton Way, Port of Ilwaco • www.olebobs.com
Restaurants Food & Beverage
EAT T. PAUL’S
Offering a complete menu for lunch and dinner. From salads to seafood, enjoy your meal and a brew on our patio overlooking the marina.
URBAN
CAFÉ lunch • dinner • live music espresso • beer • wine • desserts
“Best Fish & Chips” - 2010 Discovery Coast Visitors’ Guide
Casually Upscale
133 Howerton Way, Port of Ilwaco, Ilwaco, WA 360.642.8667 www.imperialschooner.com Open Daily • 11am - 7pm
503.338.5133 • 503-325-2545
Restaurants Food & Beverage
Jim el
CHEN’S CHINESE RESTAURANT Beer • Wine • Liquor
Nanci Main and Jimella Lucas, owner/ chefs of the legendary Ark Restaurant for 25 years, invite you to visit them at their much acclaimed Market Cafe in Klipsan Beach, Washington. • Casual Relaxed Dining • Fresh Seafood Market • Wines & Deli
Restaurants Food & Beverage
P elicano Restaurant
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
COINS 360-783-2646
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
• Elegant & Depression Glassware •
Sportsmen’s CANNERY
YOUR OWN FISH BACK
Seaview, WA 98644
Also at the Ilwaco Port Dock 642-3340 WE PROCESS SALMON, TUNA, STURGEON & BOTTOM FISH
• Coins • Dolls • Tools • Books •
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
Best roast on the coast. All coffee roasted fresh in-house • Free wifi internet • Open daily
811 Pacific Ave. S Suite 12 • PO Box 1007 • Long Beach WA 98631 360-642-2334 www.longbeachcoffee.com
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
161 H ow erton W ay • Port of Ilw aco • Ilw aco,W A 360.642.4899 • w w w .tu scan ycafe.food.officelive.com O pen Thu rsday 4-8pm • Friday,Satu rday & Su n day 11-8 pm
Seaside 60 N Roosevelt
503.738.7888
New & Vintage • Womens’ Apparel • Jewelry Bridal Registry • Beanpod Candles • Baby Items
821 Broadway, Seaside • 503.738.8004 www.IsabellRoss.net
3811 Pacific Hwy, Seaview, WA 98644
Cannon Beach 171 Sunset Blvd Join Us on
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
The
Visit...
for Quality Home Decor Tuscany Cafe has a magnificent marina view and the Italian style menu features fresh local seafood dishes with yummy desserts made fresh to order.
• Fresh, Hand- Arranged Flowers • Blooming plants and baskets • Same Day Delivery • Balloons & Candy • Most major Credit Cards welcome
• Surf, Skate, Kite, Kayak • Rentals, Lessons, Repairs
Open Wednesday to Sunday at 5 pm
Tuscany Café
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
EST 1980
360-642-4034
Restaurants Food & Beverage
Open 5 am - 11 pm 7 Days a Week
ARTISTIC BOUQUETS
177 Howerton Way SE Port of Ilwaco
www.pelicanorestaurant.com
with Techron
LOTTO • BAIT • ICE • COLD BEER CLAM LICENSES • GROCERIES • GIFTS
Contemporary Fine Dining
Fine Wines & Cocktails View Current Menu Online
Chevron
100 Bolstad Ave E #105 • Long Beach WA 98631 Open Wed - Sun, 11 - 5
on the Port of Ilwaco Waterfront
Happy Hour Daily 5 to 6
N. Long Beach
Rusty’s Coin Shop
(360)-642-2335
Restaurants Food & Beverage
eer Marke n o i P 642-4004 t
W e Buy,Sell& Trade Coins,Gold & Silver
642-8288 or 642-8299
(360) 875-5538
Where the Locals Go
LOCAL • INDEPENDENT • A HUMAN BEING BUSINESS
... Or we also trade
400 Pacific Ave. N., Long Beach OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FROM 11am And when traveling Hwy 101 North, Chen’s Motel & Restaurant, South Bend, WA Open Breakfast from 7am
NOW ON facebook
2311 N. Roosevelt • Seaside www.RandallLeesFlooring.com | (503) 738-5729
Meeting Room Available Just North of traffic light
360-665-4847 • 21712 Pacific Way jimellaandnancis.com
With you every step of the way.
China • Pottery • Paintings
nci’s
Restaurants Food & Beverage
Mon-Sat • 10:30-5:30 348 12th Street, Astoria 503-325-4210 www.lucysbooks.net
Jewelry • Furniture • Clocks
la
Na &
...a literary haven
• A lovingly hand-picked selection of great books for all ages • Journals and cards • We happily special order
Casual Waterfront Dining - Fresh Local Seafood * Crab Cakes * Fish Tacos * Clam Chowder * Fish-n-Chips * * Crab * Oysters * Shrimp * Sandwiches * Salads * Beer * Wine * Cafe Open 11 am-4 pm, Market Open 10 am-5:30 pm (Open Every Day July-September, Closed Tues & Weds Oct-June) Our Full Service Seafood Market has Fresh Local Dungeness Crab, Salmon, Tuna, Oysters, and more!
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
Lucy’s BOOKS
OLEBOB’S
A Place You Feel Like Family
Sunday School
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
Works
SELF-SERVICE DOG WASH PET FOOD & TREATS SUPPLIES, TOYS & LEASHES PLUS ANYTHING ELSE YOU MAY HAVE LEFT BEHIND! LONGVIEW ONGVIEW 1257 COMMERCE OMMERCE A VE VE.
360-636-0830
(intersection of Hwy 101 & Hwy 103) 360-642-4541 www.artisticbouquets.com
Retailers & Specialty Shopping
Board w alk Quilts YOUR destination quilt shop on the Washington Coast
Located in the heart of downtown Long Beach 111 Bolstad Avenue E Ɣ Long Beach, WA Shop online at store.boardwalkquilts.com
ASTORIA STORIA 240 14TH TH STREET TREET
503-338-6721
(360) 642–7997 Hours: Mon–Thurs 10AM–5PM Ɣ Fri–Sat 10AM–6PM Ɣ Sun 11AM–5PM
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Our Coast Directory Sports & Recreation
Sports & Recreation
Sports & Recreation
Web Sites
Seaside Golf Club • Open for Breakfast & Lunch Tuesday thru Sunday until 2pm • 10% Senior Discount 65 & Over on Regular Menu • Happy Hour Mon-Fri 3-5pm • New Lower Golf Fees
Call for Reservations
(360) 642-2009
6409 Sandridge Road - Only 1 mile from the beach
WEEKEND VISITORS ALWAYS WELCOME!
451 Ave U, Seaside 503-738-5261
LOCATED 1 MILE NORTH OF GEARHART OFF 101 AT DEL REY BEACH ACCESS ROAD PHONE: 503-738-5248 WEB: WWW.DISCOUNTDANSGOLF.COM
Your guide to arts,entertainm ent and lifestyle on the N orth O regon and Southw est W ashington Coast.
Indoor Stalls, Outdoor Paddocks, Indoor & Outdoor Arenas
Riding lessons & schooling horses
www.seasidegolfcourse.us
Web Sites
All you need to D iscover... •T im ely T id e Ta bles •Delecta ble Dining •Delig htfu lDiversions •Vivid Vid eos •Hea lthy Hikes •Fa bu lou sFind s
V isit
D isco ve r O u r C o a st.co m
the
Astoria Bridge Before there was a bridge, a ferry system established in 1921 transported people, cars and trucks from Astoria to Megler, Wash. across the mouth of the Columbia River. Construction on the project, whose critics called it “a bridge to nowhere,” began in 1962 and the bridge was opened in July 1966. Boasting the longest continuous truss in the United States, the bridge’s main span is 1,232 feet long. It’s open to pedestrian traffic only one day each year, when 3,000 runners and walkers from all over the world take part in the Great Columbia Crossing.
Astoria Bridge by the numbers Design: cantilever through-truss Material: steel Total length: 21,474 feet Width: 28 feet Longest span: 1,232 feet. Piers in water: 171 Clearance below: 196 feet at high tide Construction began: November 5, 1962 Construction ended: August 27, 1966 Construction cost: $24 million Opened: July 29, 1966 Daily traffic: 7,100
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t r o F a t s op l C
EXPLORE • HIKE • LEARN 92343 FORT CLATSOP ROAD ASTORIA, OR 503.861.2471 www.nps.gov/lewi Follow us on Facebook
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