Our Coast Magazine 2016

Page 1


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our coast Come to

Matt Winters Contributing editor Our Coast Magazine

and make it your own.

A

rrival at the Columbia River’s gateway is a deep drink of delicious water. In a nation where the shorelines of other major estuaries are piled high with a noisy mess of buildings and freeways, the Columbia is a vast reflecting pool for the forests of the Coast Range and Willapa Hills. One of the last places on the planet to be mapped in the 18th century, this still has a feel of undiscovered country, a refuge from a hectic and anxious world. Come here and breathe easier. Quench your thirsty soul. From the Columbia, visitors adventure onward to the Pacific Northwest’s most celebrated beaches and seaside resorts. South of the river’s mouth, clean sands sweep from ever-popular Fort Stevens State Park to Neahkahnie Mountain and Oswald West State Park. To the north, Washington’s anything-but-disappointing Cape Disappointment State Park anchors the island-like Long Beach Peninsula, which tapers to an end at the wild Leadbetter Point State Park. In the middle of all this is Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, paying tribute to the American spirit of exploration and a supreme Native American civilization that prospered here for thousands of years. This is a place with a theatrical profusion of options: an embarrassment of things to do, delicious things to taste, and ways to recharge your enthusiasm for life. As I sit writing this introduction on a warm January afternoon with tiny shamrock-green Pacific tree frogs singing outside in the woods, it is with a brand-new memory of just meeting a young couple at the scenic overlook above Beards Hollow. They were hip in a

nonchalant way but mostly just adorable. True to gender stereotype, he was silent as she asked directions. In answering her bright-eyed questions, I was confronted with the same dilemma we work with each year while planning this magazine: How to guide guests to an experience you’ll love best, while not clumsily getting in the way of you discovering it on your own. Ultimately, being brave enough to strike up a conversation with a rustic old editor walking his dog will be a minuscule part of the couple’s memories of the seldom-used trail I directed them to near North Head Lighthouse. That’s what I wish for each of you — to create your own perfect days here, in whatever form they take. The art of living well isn’t mass produced. Even so, there are some things I hope you won’t miss. Life, after all, is short, and there’s no telling how soon you’ll pass this way again. • This is one of the best places to see some of northwest America’s super-star wildlife and birds. Last summer, humpback whales spent weeks breaching in the Columbia just north of Astoria. Orcas hunt Chinook salmon every winter and spring in the Columbia and its ocean plume. Black bears stroll around Long Beach Peninsula neighborhoods. Sea lions bask and bark at Astoria’s East End Mooring Basin. Bald eagles are an everyday sight. Willapa National Wildlife Refuge is superb. • The food is scrumptious. Willapa Bay oysters. Fresh-caught salmon. Baked goods from the Blue Scorcher, Cottage Bakery or Pacific Way Cafe. Sweet Dungeness crab. I was skinny when I moved here 25 years ago. • The Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria is world class. Two or three hours exploring its boats and other exhibits will add valuable context to

everything else you see and do during your time here. • Festivals are genuinely fun, especially if you have a passion for whatever they feature. Personal favorites: The Astoria-Warrenton Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival in April; the distinctly small-town pleasures of Ocean Park’s Old-Fashioned Fourth of July Parade; Long Beach and Ilwaco Loyalty Days in May. • Cannon Beach, Seaside and Long Beach are all endowed with plenty of interesting diversions, and I’ve spent many hours in each. My daughter loved feeding the seals at the Seaside Aquarium. My wife adores the Cannon Beach Bookstore. No one should come to Long Beach without a visit to Marsh’s Free Museum — a gaudy seaside emporium in the old boardwalk tradition. Sunday Market in Astoria and Saturday Market at the Port of Ilwaco are famous for great reasons, and well worth your time. Ocean Park and Oysterville, Gearhart and Warrenton — each in its unique way has made my life better and can do the same for you. Perfect little restaurants, picturesque waterfronts, friendly people who will treat you well. I envy anyone who gets to come here and experience this place afresh. I hope this magazine inspires you to come to Our Coast and make it your own.

Create your own perfect days here, in whatever form they take. The art of living well isn’t mass produced.


our coast

PUBLISHER Steve Forrester EDITOR Rebecca Sedlak DESIGN DIRECTOR John D. Bruijn ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Betty Smith PHOTOGRAPHER Joshua Bessex CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Matt Winters CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Rebecca Sedlak Matt Winters Susan G. Hauser Erick Bengel Lynette Rae McAdams Andrew Tonry Jeff Leinassar Matt Love Dwight Caswell Ryan Hume GRAPHICS Alan Kenaga BUSINESS & CIRCULATION MANAGER Debra Bloom ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVES Holly Larkins Wendy Richardson Lisa Cadonau Brandy Stewart Laura Kaim Andrew Renwick

Number 5 • 2016 • www.discoverourcoast.com

FEATURES

12 Our Picks 14 Gearhart Golf Links 22 Driftwood Forts 26 The Softer Side of Wild 34 Matt Kramer Memorial The best way to have an adventure

Oregon’s oldest golf course

Natural coastal cycle of creativity

76

A Monument at Oswald West State Park

MAKE & SELL Local. Craftsmanship. Souvenirs. Décor.

Glory Days of Fishing Astoria was once the salmon fishing and canning capital of the world. BY SUSAN G. HAUSER

36 Our Picks 40 A Bright Idea 44 Handcrafted Jewelry Talented local artisans make magic

HiiH Lights paper light sculptures

WEBSITE www.discoverourcoast.com

PHONE 503-325-3211

DO & SEE

Artistry. Outdoors. Adventures. Pastimes.

The Willapa National Wildlife Refuge

DIGITAL MEDIA Crindalyn Lyster Travis Clark

OFFICE ADDRESS 949 Exchange St., Astoria, OR 97103

DEPARTMENTS

Meet three coastal jewelry makers

80

EAT & DRINK Feasts. Eateries. Libations. Recipes.

GET CONNECTED Interact with us and the community at discoverourcoast.com

Homegrown Flavor Local farmers have found their niche in the farm-to-table movement. BY ANDREW TONRY

FOLLOW US facebook.com/ourcoast twitter.com/ourcoast pinterest.com/ourcoastguide

48 Our Picks 50 Coastal Coffee Roasters 56 Dive Bars 62 Local Ice Cream Fabulous food finds to inspire you

Five local roasters discuss their brews

Find the authentic local experience

EMAIL US support@discoverourcoast.com WRITE TO US 949 Exchange St., Astoria, OR 97103

86

VISIT US ONLINE discoverourcoast.com offers all the content of Our Coast magazine and more. You’ll find slideshows of stunning photos, videos, tidetable information, travel resources, maps and more. Discover all the wonderful attractions, lively entertainment and local quirks of the Columbia-Pacific region.

LIVE & STAY

Homes. Rentals. Hotels. Campgrounds.

Chinook Nation Descendants of native peoples continue to keep their heritage alive. BY MATT WINTERS

FIND BACK ISSUES Read up on back issues of Our Coast magazine at discoverourcoast.com/magazine Our Coast is published annually by The Daily Astorian and Chinook Observer in February. Printed in Portland. Copyright © 2016 Our Coast. All rights reserved. The Daily Astorian: 800-781-3211 Chinook Observer: 800-643-3703 www.dailyastorian.com • www.chinookobserver.com

The scoop on ice cream artisans

People enjoy the sun and the waters of the Columbia River as they sail aboard the Mach One during a race put on by the Astoria Yacht Club. COVER & INTRO PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

These places are aces in our book

Local shops cater to your canine’s needs

90

At home with Seaside’s Alisa Burke

Hear why residents call our coast home

EO Media Group

ON THE COVER

66 Our Picks 68 Traveling with Your Pet 70 Redefining Creativity 74 My Coast

+ REGIONAL MAPS AND DIRECTORIES

Dead Men Tell Tales Talking Tombstones breathes life into the history of the dead. BY ERICK BENGEL

Maps of Our Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Index of advertisers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Our Coast Business Directories . . . . . . . . 104


ANDREW TONRY

OUR COAST MAGAZINE

CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew is a writer, musician, and jack-of-all-trades living on the North Coast. He writes about art, sports, comedy, politics, and culture. His work has been found in The Daily Astorian, The Portland Mercury, ESPN, MTV, The Oregonian, and more.

MATT WINTERS “After homesteading in Washington Territory in 1883, great-grandpa and grandma opened a restaurant featuring oysters, vegetables from their own garden, wild-berry pies hot from a wood-fired oven, and barrels of butter. Plus waffles,” says Matt Winters. Pacific Northwest foods are still fully flavored with the spirit of the North Pacific, seasoned with ardent personalities and a dash of humor. This still-vibrant marriage of pioneer spirit and delicious living is a source of constant inspiration for Winters, who has practiced the joyful lifestyle of outer coast newspaper editor for two and half decades. When he isn’t savoring Willapa and Columbia seafood, he walks the cliffs and glens of Cape Disappointment with his undaunted wheaten terrier. A sample of his award-winning columns is available at mythtown.blogspot.com

SUSAN G. HAUSER

JEFF LEINASSAR

As if naming her daughter “Meriwether” weren’t evidence enough, Portland writer Susan G. Hauser continues to demonstrate her love of the Northwest by writing articles for scores of regional and national publications. She also wrote the screenplay for the documentary film Finding David Douglas, about the namesake of the Douglas fir, who collected plants along and beyond the Columbia River in the early 1800s. Having already profiled renowned Portland bookseller Michael Powell for The Wall Street Journal and the University of Chicago magazine, she was familiar with his secret passion: fishing on the Columbia River (“Remembering the glory days,” pg. 76).

Although Jeff Leinassar has enjoyed a successful golf career, he considers dentistry the passion in his life. At Leinassar Dental Excellence in Astoria, he provides dental care to patients with his “dream team” of dedicated professionals. As far as golf goes, Leinassar, who was a two-time varsity letterman at Oregon State University, has achieved numerous accomplishments. He’s most proud of winning 23 club championships, both the Royal Oaks Invitational Championship and Southwest Oregon Championship in 1987, the Oregon Senior Amateur Championship in 1999, and five Oregon Coast Invitational Championships. Leinassar and his wife, Cathy, have two daughters and an adorable granddaughter.

RYAN HUME Ryan Hume is a fiction writer, journalist, and editor. He pens the Word Nerd column for Coast Weekend, and his fiction has appeared in Tin House and Juked, among other publications. He lives in Astoria with his wife and daughter.

MATT LOVE Matt Love lives in Astoria and is the publisher of Nestucca Spit Press. He’s the author/editor of 14 books about Oregon. In 2009, Love won the Oregon Literary Arts’ Stewart H. Holbrook Literary Legacy Award for his contributions to Oregon history and literature. His website is www.nestuccaspitpress.com

10 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com


DWIGHT CASWELL You have to be utterly engaged in the present to make a good photograph, says Dwight Caswell. He became a photographer shortly after receiving his doctorate from the University of Chicago and spent time learning from established photographers, including Ansel Adams and Wynn Bullock. In the 1980s, he began writing about food, wine, and sailing, and now focuses on travel and profiles of interesting people. He has translated and illustrated the Tao Te Ching of Lao-Tzu and published Finding China, an illustrated journal of his travels in China and Tibet. He is currently working on a book about the Neolithic monuments of Great Britain.

ERICK BENGEL Erick Bengel is a reporter at The Daily Astorian and a former reporter at the Cannon Beach Gazette. Most of his articles are written on a Folgers jag sometime between midnight and 7 a.m. When he isn’t typing furiously, tracking down sources, and pretending not to have strong opinions for the sake of objectivity, he can be found reading in the Astoria Public Library, sipping cider at Fort George Brewery, or lecturing patient loved ones about Game of Thrones, Lord of the Rings, cultivating discursive honesty in a world plagued by willful self-deception, and film.

REBECCA SEDLAK Our Coast Editor Rebecca Sedlak moved to Astoria four years ago and was immediatley inspired to explore the Columbia Pacific’s stunning beauty, rich history, and small-town charm. When she’s not working on this annual magazine or running the weekly Coast Weekend arts and entertainment section of The Daily Astorian and Chinook Observer, she can be found admiring artwork at local galleries, cooking up something scrumptious in her kitchen, or soaking in the lush coastal forests on a hike.

LYNETTE RAE MCADAMS Freelance writer Lynette Rae McAdams arrived to Astoria at the turn of the century, a shipmate aboard the M/V Sea Lion. Instantly smitten by the lush combination of river and sea, she’s been living, working, and playing in the Columbia-Pacific region ever since. When she’s not writing from her home on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula, you can find McAdams roaming the public lands and wild spaces of the coastline she adores (“The softer side of wild,” pg. 26) — a camera in one hand, and a thermos full of hot coffee in the other (“Coastal coffee roasters,” pg. 50).

We’re looking out for you! Pick up your FREE info Packet at the Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau (intersection of Hwys 101 & 103)

Discovery Coast Real Estate

For all your Real Estate Needs, visit

www.discoverycoastrealestate.com Search by City, Price, or Type – We have it all!

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Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 11


do see

Artistry. Outdoors. Adventures. Pastimes.

ourpicks •

The Columbia Pacific is a playground for every type of explorer, whether you’re an art-lover, concert-goer, sports junkie, or wilderness nut. Here are some of our favorite ways to have an adventure when you’re out and about on our coast.

Clatsop Paddle Company The mouth of the Columbia River defines this region. Exploring on the water makes perfect sense, and Clatsop Paddle Company can help you do just that. Run by Astoria native Cheryl Johnson, the outfit specializes in stand-up paddleboard rentals, equipment sales, lessons, and guided tours. “As far as wanting to see nature, wildlife, and great views, getting out on the water is a really great way to do that,” Cheryl says. “We take pride in showing people the beauty of our region from the vantage point of a paddleboard.” The company has a waterfront location in Skamokawa, Washington, and a mobile unit based out of Astoria, Oregon — so it’s easy to explore all the local tributaries. See charming houseboats on the calm water of the John Day River. Pass by fishing boats on Warrenton’s Skipanon River. Intermediate paddlers can take in the beauty of Nehalem Bay. Follow the Corps of Discovery’s trail on the Lewis and Clark River, see bald eagles at Blind Slough in Knappa, explore “little Venice” on Skamokawa Creek, and witness amazing views on the Seaside Estuary.

Each experience is customized for clients, taking the weather, tide, and ability into account. Kids age 8 and up can climb aboard, and Clatsop Paddle does corporate events, team building, birthday parties, and yoga on request. Instructors are certified by the Professional Stand Up Paddleboard Association and hold current wilderness medicine first responder certifications. — Rebecca Sedlak.

Find Clatsop Paddle Company online at clatsoppaddle.com, on Facebook, or follow on Instagram @ClatsopPaddle. To book a lesson, rental, or tour, email cj@clatsoppaddle.com or call 503-791-9619.

Washington State Int’l Kite Festival Long Beach, WA Voted the best kite festival in the world by Kite Trade Association International, this seven-day celebration takes place every year during the third week of August and has been delighting crowds of spectators and participants for 36 years. Set against the reliably windy backdrop of Long Beach, Washington, with mile after mile of open shoreline for a stage, flyers from around the world, at every level of experience, gather to compete and share the sky with kites in more colors, shapes, and sizes than you ever imagined possible. Highlights include: synchronized kite ballet, an illuminated night fly, daring stunt kite battles, and three days of spectacular (and sometimes record-breaking) mass ascensions. Already feeling a kink in your neck? Take a break from the action to attend a kite-making workshop, visit the World Kite Museum, relax in the beer garden, or stroll through the myriad of vendor booths. (Inside tip: Don’t miss the week’s finale of fireworks, one of the best of the year.) — Lynette Rae McAdams

12 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

The 2016 Washington State International Kite Festival takes place August 15 to 21 in Long Beach, Washington. Learn more at kitefestival.com


Astoria Open Studio Tour

DragonFire Gallery Cannon Beach, OR When you imagine an art gallery, what comes to mind? Likely it’s something along these lines: White walls, blank space, and a few framed pieces at eye level. Not so at DragonFire, a gallery that has no room for minimalism. The almost labyrinthian space in Cannon Beach is teeming with work in a variety of mediums. On display is everything from paintings and photos to blown glass, metal sculptures, jewelry, clothing, and even hand-painted shoes. If anything unites the work, it’s a sense of bold color — and perhaps a tad of whimsy. Matching that bright, lively spirit, DragonFire is known for its festive, sumptuous openings during Cannon Beach’s annual arts festivals: Spring Unveiling, Plein Air, and Stormy Weather. They’ll have effusive live music, wine, and marvelous snacks. During those weekends, the place gets packed to the gills. Which is much like the gallery itself: The walls are filled from floor to ceiling, and every one boasts a bold color. There’s not a shred of blank, white space. — Andrew Tonry

DragonFire Gallery is located at 123 S. Hemlock St. in Cannon Beach. Find the gallery on Facebook, follow on Twitter @DragonFireCB, feast your senses from afar on dragonfiregallery.com, or call 503-436-1533

Astoria, OR Unlike in The Wizard of Oz, peeking behind an artist’s curtain often makes their work all the more exciting. Most art lovers will tell you: Meeting an artist, learning about their process, and watching them work helps deepen the connection with the finished product. Hence the Astoria Society of Artists’ annual Open Studio Tour. Each year, during the last weekend of July, a conglomeration of 35-plus artists throw open the doors to their workspaces. The mediums are many. You’ll see painters, photographers, fiber artists, sculptors, book-makers, and more, all in their creative habitats. They’ll be doing demos, answering questions, and just generally pulling back the veil on the creative method. As much as it is a boon for art lovers, the Astoria Studio Tour is an important resource for artists as well. Wonder how a particular effect is achieved? Want to share tips or see new tools of the trade? Grab a map at any of Astoria’s galleries, and, on a self-guided tour, go behind the scenes. — Andrew Tonry

The 2016 Open Studio Tour will take place July 30 and 31. Learn more on Facebook or at astoriaartists.org

Liberty Theater Astoria, OR Astoria’s Liberty Theater is the grandest interior space on the North Coast. Built in 1924 (after a fire in 1922 decimated the downtown ), the theater’s interior design is of Italiante revival. Ringing the ceiling are 12 murals meant to invoke windows, as if by looking out one could see the canals of Venice. Bearing influences of Asian design, the central chandelier is constructed of paper and silk. Despite the 665 seats, the acoustically perfect hall is intimate and does not require amplification. Around the turn of the millennium, the theater underwent significant restorations, though its historic charms remain. Renovations have continued to include a ballet studio, rehearsal rooms, and more. Throughout the year the Liberty Theater hosts a wide variety of performances and entertainment, from musicals, plays, and concerts to operas, ballets, and film screenings. It is also the home of the Astoria Music Festival every June. Past performances have included Don McLean and Judy Collins, the Dance Theatre of Harlem, and Astoria’s own Blind Pilot. — Andrew Tonry The theater is located at 1203 Commercial St. in Astoria. Current show listings and tickets can be found online at www.liberty-theater.org, or at the box office.

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 13


13

HOLE

Teeing off from the 13th hole.


do see

GOLFING the GEARHART GOLF LINKS

STORY BY JEFF LEINASSAR • PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

As the oldest golf course in Oregon, Gearhart Golf Links has a unique feel. The terrain makes it most definitely a links course.


do see

HOLE

4

A sloped green defines this hole.

“I have always felt holes four and five were challenging. A difficult and sloped green defines the fourth hole. A water pond hazard and trees guard the entrance to the green on the fifth hole.”

HOLE

5

A water hazard tests golfers’ skills.

16 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

M

y last round of golf at Gearhart Golf Links was in August 2014 during a oneday event hosted by Professional Golfers’ Association of America professional Peter Jabobsen and his brother David Jacobsen. I recall being impressed with the many changes and improvements to the club house, pro shop, golf course, greens, and overall camaraderie. All these changes Tim Boyle and his team have done are positive for golfers’ enjoyment at Gearhart Golf Links. The opening holes are relatively short par 4s — giving the golfer good opportunities for birdies and pars and a nice start to the day. I have always felt holes four and five were challenging. A difficult and sloped green defines the fourth hole. A water pond hazard and many trees guard the entrance to the green on the fifth hole. Playing hole five requires a tee shot to the right side of the fairway to give the best angle to find the green in two fine shots. The eighth hole is a medium-length par 5 where birdie or perhaps eagle are possibilities for longer hitters. A tricky green gives this hole some “defense.” The front nine ends with a nice par 4 and a view of the McMenamins Gearhart Hotel and pro shop. The tee shot is a “grip it and rip it” to set up a short iron to a green that is well-guarded by two bunkers. The back nine, in my opinion, is the more challenging side and most changed by the extensive tree removals done several years ago. Holes 10 and 12 have opened up and are more enjoyable to play. And finally, there is The Beast, one of the toughest holes on the Oregon Coast: the 18th hole at Gearhart Golf Links. This over-600-yard par 5 presents numerous challenges — including uphill and a dogleg to the left at the green — that require the golfer’s best shots. Fortunately, the conclusion of this difficult hole is right next to the 19th hole — McMenamins Sand Trap Pub and the Pot Bunker Bar — where the golfer’s day can be relived and enjoyed!

The opening holes are relatively short par 4s — giving the golfer good opportunities for birdies and pars and a nice start to the day.


HOLE

9

The view from the ninth hole is a great one.

Q&A

with Tim Boyle

DON FRANK PHOTOGRAPHY

Tim Boyle is CEO of Columbia Sportswear. He, his wife, and children own Gearhart Golf Links

18

HOLE

The 18th hole presents challenges.

The Beast, one of the toughest holes on the Oregon Coast: the 18th hole at Gearhart Golf Links.

A traditional links course offers the following features: • The golf course is built along the coast, so the soil is sandy and drains easily. • The course is laid out naturally, so that unusual bumps and slopes in the fairways and greens remain. • Bunkers are numerous and typically deep (to keep the ocean breezes from blowing the sand away.) • Fairways are rarely (if ever) watered – except by nature – and play firm and fast.

Our Coast: What led you to purchase Gearhart Golf Links? What year was that? Tim Boyle: We’ve had a place at Gearhart more than 30 years. I didn’t start playing golf until 1990. I learned at Gearhart. There was a fire at Gearhart and the owners, the Kelly family, built the big lodge building and did some improvements. But it didn’t work. They put the property up for sale. A group of 15 of us ended up buying the business. Over time, when other investors lost interest, I bought their positions. I ended up with the whole thing. That was four to five years ago. After a year into our ownership, Jason Bangild was running the business. Jason runs the golf course now. OC: Beyond improved course maintenance, your managers have made some changes in the course’s fixtures, such as taking out a number of trees. What is that strategy? TB: Gearhart was designed as a links course. Links courses have no trees on them. In the 1950s, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers decided the whole North Coast should have shore pines on it. That’s where those trees came from. I like links golf. I wanted to get as close as possible. We had a couple architects look at it, including Jim Urbina and John Strawn. And David McLay Kidd — who designed the Old MacDonald course at Bandon Dunes — commented on the work done by Urbina and Strawn. That helped in what we call polishing the gem. Between those three guys and their view of what the course was, we took the trees out. We did that for two reasons: to make it better and make it different from the Astoria Golf & Country Club. Interview by Steve Forrester


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18 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

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B I S T R O

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Astoria is a great place to visit at any me of year, but “ the Fes val fills the town with music. ”

—THE OREGONIAN

open every day lunch . dinner. sunday brunch 503.325.6777 • bridgewaterbistro.com on the river • 20 basin st • astoria or

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 19


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90618



do see

driftwoodforts

You, too, can participate in this natural coastal cycle of creativity STORY & PHOTOS BY MATT LOVE

When was the last time you built a driftwood fort on an ocean beach? On your next visit, why not build one with friends and family? It just might change your life.

T

he phenomenon of driftwood fort building represents a magically tactile collaboration between people and nature that provides recreation, community, shelter, and something wonderfully metaphorical. I find observing the unique Pacific Northwest coastal tradition of building driftwood forts a wonder to behold. But participating in erecting them is an even richer experience — and I would know because I build forts all the time by myself, with friends, and my students.

22 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

The cycle begins every spring, when a few forts emerge as outposts on the more popular beaches. All winter long, beaverwood, logging slash, wrecked docks, and eroded trees travel downstream from coastal watersheds and mix in the local ocean with ancient wood that may have floated for decades or centuries. Whatever their origin, all manner of logs, poles, branches, sticks, stumps, planks, boards, beams, and root wads amass precariously above the wrack line, waiting for the fort builders to come along and get cracking. They always do.


There’s More to Discover Check out more driftwood forts. Visit www.discoverourcoast.com

As spring turns to summer, the master fort building season commences, and the scale and diversity of structures staggers the mind. There are tepees, A-frames, dugouts, pillboxes, burners, circulars, lean-tos, and wind breaks on virtually every stretch of ocean beach in Oregon and Washington.

These initial spring forts are constructed mainly by vacationers and typically seem small, unimaginative. Later, as spring turns to summer, the master fort building season commences, and the scale and diversity of structures staggers the mind. There are tepees, A-frames, dugouts, pillboxes, burners, circulars, lean-tos, and wind breaks on virtually every stretch of ocean beach in Oregon and Washington. Many builders also construct elaborate benches and fire pits and decorate their forts with shells, strands of kelp, rope, buoys, and other weird flotsam and jetsam. By late fall, decline sets in. Most forts have collapsed, fallen into disrepair, been burned up in bonfires, or crippled by surging high tides. Then, the inevitable late October or early November super storm blows through, and forts crumble and scatter. I relish this fact because their disappearance reveals the essence and beauty of driftwood fort building: They never last; they always return. Waves recollect the scattered wood and deposit it here and there for the next four or five months until spring arrives and the season of driftwood fort building recommences. That’s called a cycle, and I love recognizing I belong to it because it’s quite possibly the healthiest awareness a person can acquire. Although there really are no rules for building driftwood forts, I have devised a few cosmic guidelines that I believe (through much practice and meditation) enhance the actual metaphorical value of the experience. They are: • Use only the materials found on the beach. No tools except the ones you fashion. • It’s always a good idea to begin a fort with one or two large pieces of driftwood as a foundation. • Don’t tear a fort down to build your own. Forts are never abandoned; they are left for others to enjoy. You can add to, adorn, repurpose, collaborate, take something small you might need, but you can’t destroy another fort for your own well being, your children’s, your spouse’s, or your portfolio’s. You never get to own one because driftwood forts belong temporarily to everyone and permanently to the ocean. That’s their reality and metaphor.

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 23


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24 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

MAKE RIDING THE BUS PART OF YOUR ADVENTURE!

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do see

the

softer side of wild STORY & PHOTOS BY LYNETTE RAE MCADAMS

Take refuge in the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge



y do see

How I fell in love with public lands

esterday I walked among ancient cedars, their gnarled roots like the hands of so many greatgrandmothers, each holding fast to her place on this earth. The week before found me steathfully on my knees in a wide swath of eelgrass — a private study of the great blue heron, master in the ways of stillness. And last spring, I watched a sunrise over Tarlatt Slough that came so sweet and so slow, it looked as though the fields themselves gave up their very breath at the sight of it. Jackie Ferrier, refuge manager, says, “Every little piece of it is its own miracle of nature,” and I think I know just what she means: My favorite place on the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge is wherever I happen to be standing. Signed into American law in 1937 by Franklin D. Roosevelt, and designed to safeguard migrating birds, the refuge works to preserve, protect, and restore more than 16,000 acres on and around Washington’s Willapa Bay — all of it divided into separate sections. Taken together, these units form a network of rare ecosystems — from the saltwater marshes of Leadbetter Point, to the open grasslands at the bottom of the bay; from dense old-growth forests, to wind-swept Pacific dunes; from the swollen streams that meander the Willapa Hills, to the rich tidal mudflats that encircle the estuary — all of it combines to form a singular, globally important stop on the great Pacific Flyway. Stretching from the Arctic Circle all the way to Patagonia, the flyway is used by birds who travel some (or all) of that distance, twice each year, relying on places like this to rest, nest, or simply refuel. Thanks to its unique environs, the Willapa refuge is able to attract and shelter more than 200 feathered species, all who, in a crowded world of ever-shrinking habitats, need it more and more.

Canada geese take refuge after their fall arrival to Willapa Bay. One goose, the sentinel, keeps watch while the others rest.

28 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

There’s More to Discover See more Willapa National Wildlife Refuge photos. Visit www.discoverourcoast.com

INTRO: Papilio oregonius: the Oregon swallowtail butterfly. ABOVE: Ancient cedar trees are the focus of the trail at the Teal Slough unit of the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge.

Spring and fall bring an explosion of birds — literally millions — with aerial formations and rituals so intense, their presence eclipses all other aspects of the refuge.

My favorite place on the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge is wherever I happen to be standing.

And while they’re certainly worthy stars of the show, they’re not the only creatures who benefit from this wide blanket of protection. Through the marvelous piggyback effect that rules the natural world, mammals large and small can all call the refuge home, along with amphibians, reptiles, fish, and, those astonishing spineless wonders — the invertebrates! — whose group encompasses everything from clams, oysters, and insects, to spiders, slugs, and snails. The same soggy wetlands that shelter the northern pintail also nourish the skunk cabbage that flowers in early spring — a delicacy for black bears, lumbering out of torpor. To the ponds and sloughs that beckon the American widgeon and the mallards, the playful northern river otter also arrives — on the hunt for crawfish, mice, or, if he’s lucky, a succulent duck egg (maybe even two). Every nook and cranny teems with life: layer after layer of water and light and nutrients, coming together to create one grand tapestry — all on public lands, held in trust, and just as accessible to you and I as to the coyote or the hummingbird. Well, almost. >>


Willapa National Wildlife Refuge

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The Willapa National Wildlife Refuge has no entrance fees, and visitors are welcome every day during daylight hours. For the safety of wildlife and the protection of delicate habitats, dogs are not allowed on refuge lands. For more information, visit www.fws.gov/refuge/Willapa or call 360-484-3482.

LEGEND

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1. Refuge Headquarters Milepost 24 on U.S. Hwy 101, directly across from Long Island Home to the WNWR main office, this unit offers parking, refuge maps, a public boat launch, vault toilets, and two chances to stretch your legs. The short and delightful Willapa Art Trail is a boardwalk path over ponds, streams, and saltwater marshes that uses art to educate along the way; the more challenging Cutthroat Loop Trail branches off to climb through dense forest.

101

Oysterville Oys Oy O yst ster ervville il e

2. Teal Slough 1.6 miles north of WNWR Headquarters on U.S. Hwy 101 Walk the road behind the gate up and through the forest, and follow the arrows to some seriously big, seriously beautiful old trees. Ancient cedars twist their way to the heavens amid a temple of giant Sitka spruces. At trail’s end, there’s a peek-a-boo view of Willapa Bay.

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3. Long Island

N

South end of Willapa Bay (launch from headquarters; pay close attention to tides) Accessible only by private boat, this 5,460-acre island is comprised of lush coastal forests surrounded by rich mudflats. Black bears, Mid i v e deer, and elk call the island home, as well as birds and amphibians dle r of every variety. Five primitive campgrounds (20 sites total) dot the Ne mh a perimeter, and hiking trails abound, along with public clam beds. Don’t miss the Don Bonker Cedar Grove: 274 acres of 1,000-year-old Western red cedar, near the island’s center. hN ort

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Approximately 5 miles south of WNWR Headquarters on U.S. Hwy 101 Home to Greenhead Slough, site of a major recent restoration project, this unit is accessed mainly by elk and deer hunters. Park at the gate near the bridge, and follow the old road east and into the forest.

R i ver

5. Riekkola Unit/Porter’s Point/Lewis Unit

Na

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From Sandridge Road, turn east onto 67th Place; this long road terminates at the refuge gate, where three units essentially converge Dominated by grasslands, this place is a smorgasbord for migrating birds, elk, otters, coyotes, and long-tailed weasels. Soggy fields offer an ideal environment for inter-species games of hide-and seek; walk the gentle road toward the bay and watch the food chain in action.

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6. Tarlatt Slough From Sandridge Road, turn east onto 95th Street; at the “Y,” veer right and continue to the refuge gate. Enjoy this easy piece of water as it slips on out to Willapa Bay. Offering great views of the spring and fall bird migrations, this spot is also roaming ground for coyotes, deer, and elk (and happens to be downright beautiful, year-round).

7. Leadbetter Point Ilwaco IlIlwa Ilw lwac aco ac co 1000 100 00 0

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From Sandridge Road near Oysterville, follow the signs to Leadbetter State Park (end of Stackpole Road); a Discover Pass is required at this unit only. Bordering the state park (and sharing parking and restrooms), this remote tip of the Long Beach Peninsula is sacred nesting ground for the protected Western snowy plover and a playground for thousands of others. A network of trails provides access to panoramic views of Willapa Bay and the Pacific Ocean. Birders, prepare to swoon. Sources: U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service; Our Coast research Map by : Lynette Rae McAdams and Alan Kenaga/EO Media Group


do see

a

Spring sunrise at the Tarlatt Slough unit of the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge.

How very lovely it is ...

s a human, wandering the refuge in perfect happiness does require a bit of savvy, and it’s important to keep in mind at least these things: The Willapa is a world of many splendors, but most of them are muddy; wild animals are smart enough to want to keep their distance; and mosquitoes here can swarm so thick, I’ve seen the most stoic of outdoorsmen beg for DEET. So hear this now, and repeat it like a mantra: Boots, binoculars, bug spray; boots, binoculars, bug spray. (I promise you, you’ll thank me later.) And finally, there’s this small fact: Much of wildlife watching is actually wrapped up in waiting, and this can bring frustration. But often, these are the moments when the refuge offers up its greatest gifts. Like one long afternoon I remember last year, 30 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

searching a stream bank in vain for the endangered Dunn’s salamander. Defeated, I dropped to the water’s edge, only to notice for the first time, the perfect universe that lay at my feet. Skating across the reflective surface, water striders moved in a synchronized ballet, their fragile insect bodies sending out vibrations of light and shadow. Below them, piles of twigs and decaying leaves dressed the welcoming bed for a soon-to-spawn salmon; from the axis of a nearby fern, a Pacific tree frog sang out its approval. So here you have come, on the lookout for something flashy, maybe hoping for a herd of thundering elk. But have you missed the Oregon swallowtail, feasting there on the last of the summer thistles? Can you see how it moves its soft butterfly body, over the prickly spines and to the flower’s center, probing ever deeper for another sip of nectar? Bend in closer, she has a tale to tell, and therein lies the secret to it all. Can you see her unfurling it from her magnificent wings, hear her whispering it, once, before she sets off on the wind? Listen: There is magic in the minuscule; and sometimes, the way to see clearly is to stop

Pseudacris regilla: the Pacific tree frog is a yearround inhabitant of the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge.

looking quite so hard. How very lovely it is, to discover at last, that we are all a part of something larger than ourselves.


Northwest Carriage

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Group/School Tours Available! Fun, Interactive Exhibits for the Kids & Adults!

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Come, Get Carried Away At the NW Carriage Museum! At Hwy 101 & State Route 6 in Raymond, WA 98577 360-942-4150 • www.nwcarriagemuseum.org

Open Year Round Daily 10-4pm

Donors, this is a good time to plan for: • Tax-exempt donations for charity • Endow one or more charities • Establish a donor-advised fund Contact SPCCF, 360-665-5292, info@spccf.org, Website, www.spccf.org

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Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 31


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June 17, 18, 19, 2016 503.738.6391 • seasidechamber.com 32 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com


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THE APPLE TREE

book, music & lyrics by Sheldon Harnick and Jerry Bock / additional book by Jerome Coopersmith

Take a musical journey of love with the songwriters of Fiddler on the Roof.

June 17 - Sept. 3, 2016

Guided Tours • Lessons • Rentals • Board Sales

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THE FOURPOSTER Jan de Hartog

The good, bad and other moments of marriage.

June 24 - Sept. 4, 2016

9 TO 5 THE MUSICAL

LET’S MURDER MARSHA

music & lyrics by Dolly Parton book by Patricia Resnick

by Monk Ferris

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Sept. 23 - Oct. 22, 2016

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IT’S A WONDERFUL LIFE

by Marc Camoletti + Robin Hawdon

by James W. Rodgers

Feast on a comedic farce about marital shenanigans and gourmet food.

A faithful adaptation of the 1946 classic family film.

Coaster Theatre Playhouse 108 N Hemlock Street Cannon Beach OR 97110 Box office: 503-436-1242 | coastertheatre.com Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 33


do see

off the beaten path

THE MATT KRAMER MEMORIAL OSWALD WEST STATE PARK HOLDS MANY WONDERS. THIS INSPIRING, LITTLE-KNOWN MONUMENT IS ONE OF THEM. STORY & PHOTO BY MATT LOVE

I saw a tattooed mom with her grumpy daughter coming up the path from the beach. On the driftlogs, a couple of mountain men donned wet suits. On the sand, I passed some German tourists marveling at the waves. Out to sea, I counted at least a dozen surfers and paddleboarders. No one paid a fee to do any of these things. It was a weekday winter afternoon on Short Sand Beach in Oswald West State Park, and everyone was enjoying everything wonderful the Oregon Coast has to offer. But there is something else wonderful at the park, beyond recreation. There is a monument there that exudes sheer inspiration for any aspiring writer or anyone looking to make a positive difference in the world. The inspiration is the Matt Kramer Memorial, and it is located in Oswald West State Park on the trail to Cape Falcon. It amounts to a plaque overlooking one of the great beaches in Oregon. On the plaque you will read: “The people of Oregon hereby express their gratitude to Matt Kramer of the Associated Press, whose clear and incisive newspaper articles were instrumental in

Matt Kramer walks an Oregon beach.

gaining public support for passing of the 1967 Beach Bill. This landmark legislation guarantees forever the public’s right to the free and uninterrupted use of one of Oregon’s most popular recreation attractions, its ocean beaches.” Matt Kramer was a veteran Associated Press reporter covering the Capitol beat and the 1967 session of the Oregon Legislature. His dispatches on the early precarious fate of the “Beach Bill” that appeared in newspapers around the state helped keep the bill alive in the public eye despite the efforts of coastal

legislators who wanted to kill it in committee. The man wrote 40,000 to 50,000 bias-free words in five months, and his sentences awakened a sleeping giant — the people of Oregon — to the shocking news that their publicly owned beaches in the dry sand areas were imperiled by impending privatization. When the threat to Oregon’s public beaches arose, Kramer went into action and typed up hard news stories that quickly became the foundation for public discussion and ultimately, opinion. Matt Kramer died from cancer in 1972, and the state erected the memorial that same year. If Kramer hadn’t done what he did, and the Beach Bill had gone down to defeat, well, travel to New Jersey or Malibu and see how the Oregon Coast might have turned out. A journalist helped make sure that didn’t happen. He used his talent with words and tenaciousness as a reporter to help win the day for all Oregonians then, now, and in the future. I find that incredibly inspiring. Visit the Matt Kramer Memorial, and I think you will feel the same.

THE MATT KRAMER MEMORIAL EXUDES SHEER INSPIRATION FOR ANY ASPIRING WRITER OR ANYONE LOOKING TO MAKE A POSITIVE DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD.


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make sell Local. Craftsmanship. Souvenirs. Décor.

ourpicks •

It seems like whenever you turn around, you bump into a local artisan. We’re not complaining. Here’s a top selection of talented and creative locals who make magic with their hands.

Woodsy Accessories

You can find Woodsy online at woodsyaccessories.etsy.com, on Facebook, or follow on Instagram @woodsyaccessories. Bowties are available at Forsythea and Maiden Astoria in Astoria, OR.

Astoria, OR When Narayan Elasmar needed a bowtie to wear as a groomsman in his best friend’s wedding, he was at a loss. An aspiring woodworker, he decided to fabricate a wooden bowtie. The tie was a hit at the wedding, so much so that in December 2014 he and his wife, Mandy Flaitz, launched Woodsy Accessories. Right now the Astoria micro business focuses on handmade wooden bowties. Each one is hand cut and sanded by Narayan in his small woodshop. Then, the couple creates an adjustable band with colorful fabric, finishing the piece with a hand stitch. Each tie is unique, showcasing a different wood and fabric, and christened with a fun name. In Astoria, they’ve gathered native woods like red alder, western red cedar, Douglas fir, Sitka spruce, bigleaf maple and Oregon myrtlewood. When they’re out of town, the couple picks up different types of wood too, like mahogany, hickory, purpleheart and maple burl. “That’s the best part, for me at least,” Narayan says, “exploring all these different kinds of woods.” Narayan hasn’t stopped wearing his bowties, either. “He’s our walking billboard,” Mandy says. The duo are planning to branch into women’s accessories soon with wooden earrings. — Rebecca Sedlak

Palette Puddlers

Cannon Beach, OR Though most are retired, members of the Palette Puddlers are not women who like to stand idle. For the past 25 years, this dedicated group of 13 professional women artists has met every Monday to paint, share ideas, and talk art. “You’ve got to have something at the end that you love, because you’ve worked hard,” says Ellen Zimet, who has been a member for six years. The meetings culminate three times a year in art shows at the Cannon Beach Chamber of Commerce: Memorial Day Learn more about the weekend, Labor Day weekend, and during the Stormy Weather Palette Puddlers or order an art Arts Festival. Visitors find framed paintings, matted prints, even calendar at palettepuddlers.com a bargain bin, plus refreshments. The Palette Puddlers also demo their techniques live — watercolors, pastel, acrylics, lino-block prints — and welcome questions. Five years ago, the group created a calendar, with each month showcasing a different artist. “It evolved from the idea that so many people were interested in our work,” Ellen said. “It is unbelievably popular.” — Rebecca Sedlak

36 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com


Pitch & Pine Publications

Nehalem, OR Pitch & Pine’s greeting cards aren’t just printed on recycled paper — the Nehalem company’s commitment to ethical production and sustainability goes much further. The printing facility is fully powered by wind-power. The inks are vegetable-based, and the papers are sustainably sourced. That said, Pitch & Pine’s cards don’t have the kind of rough-hewn, handmade style one might associate with such environmentally sensitive practices — the designs are sharp and modern. There are three basic series: bold color backgrounds with painterly styled animals, crisp line art with inspirational quotes, and scenes of the Pacific Northwest. The majority of the cards are purposefully blank on the inside, so gift givers can personalize them. “A lot of people buy gift cards so they don’t have to put any thought into it,” says creator and artist Ryan J. Pedersen. Pitch & Pine’s cards, however, are nothing if not thoughtful. — Andrew Tonry

Find Pitch & Pine greeting cards throughout Oregon at Powell’s Books on Hawthorne, New Seasons Market in Portland and Hillsboro, Passianflower Design and The Kiva in Eugene, Beach Books in Seaside, Cannon Beach Books, Mother Nature’s Natural Foods and Salt & Paper in Manzanita, and The Nehalem Beehive. Learn more or buy online at pitchnpine.com, and follow on Instagram @pitchandpine

Harmony SoapWorks

Harmony SoapWorks are available at more than a dozen regional locations, including the Oysterville Store in Oysterville, WA; Niva Green in Long Beach, WA; Bellisima Salon in Astoria, OR; and Cottage Crafters in Cannon Beach, OR. Learn more by calling 360-665-0102, or visit harmonysoapworks.com

Oysterville, WA It was 1997 when Diana Thompson and her husband, John Adams, decided to pack things up in Portland and split for Washington’s southwest coast, where they hoped their fledgling company, Harmony SoapWorks, might stretch its wings. Almost 20 years later, their handcrafted creations have set a new standard for cleanliness throughout the Columbia-Pacific region, with long-lasting, light-scented soaps made from the finest natural ingredients — all designed to be kind to your skin while delighting your senses. And with more than 30 different bars to choose from, there’s something to please just about everyone. For a luxurious treat, consider Calendula Cream, made with the richest of oils and the softest of flower petals. For working hands there’s the Gardener’s bar, infused with lavender and backed with the scrubbing power of corn meal. Jasmine might add romance to your life, while Cranberry brings a tang; Lemongrass Rosemary is a wake-up wonder, but Coastal Violet will sweeten your dreams. Looking for something more masculine? Take a peek at the “Manly” line, where five boldly scented soaps (think bay rum, spiced mahogany, and even patchouli) stand by to soothe. Available in local gift shops and hotels, as well as through their online store, Harmony soaps make a squeaky clean gift for any occasion. — Lynette Rae McAdams

Alder wood boxes

Oysterville, WA Michael Parker’s handmade alder wood boxes contain both a story and an innate sense of place. Part of that is because of the material: Alder trees are abundant in the Northwest, and when Parker needs more materials he need look no further than his or his neighbor’s Oysterville yards. But it goes further. Besides an etched signature and date, Parker includes a card explaining that “there are no electric lights in his workshop and he works only in daylight hours.” Each box, with its tightly fitting lid, has its own personality. The boxes are whole sections of the tree’s trunk, bark intact, smooth and round, hollowed like bowls on the inside, lacquered on the outside. At the tender young age of 80, Parker began by making a trio of boxes for his neighbor’s three girls. The joy of crafting — and a growing demand — have kept him at it. “I have so much damn fun making these things,” Parker says. — Andrew Tonry

Michael’s handmade alder wood boxes are available at Forsythea in Astoria, OR

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 37


Suzanne

Elise

assisted living community a p a r t of

the

a v a m e r e f a m i l y of c o m p a n i e s

Suzanne Elise is known throughout the local Seaside community as a comfortable family home cherished by the residents who live here. If you are in the process of making life a little easier, our Assisted Living in Seaside is here for you!

Located in Sandpiper Square 172 N. Hemlock, Cannon Beach, OR 503.436.1718 • 877.511.5752 www.maggieandhenry.com

101 Forest Drive, Seaside, OR 97138 www.suzanneelise.com 503-738-0307 Call Bonnie to schedule a tour!

Making Sweet Memories in Cannon Beach for Over 50 Years!

TIONS TWOyL&OcoCnA vienient) ((easy

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on the waterfront port of ilwaco, wa

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marie-powell.com 360-244-0800

38 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

256 N Hemlock • Cannon Beach • Seaside Outlet Mall www.brucescandy.com • 503-436-2641 • 503-738-7828


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F orreservation s call800-699-5070 • 503-738-9581 orvisit w w w .in n atseasid e.com 441 Secon d A ve • Seasid e,O regon 97138 Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 39


make sell

a bright idea This Astoria husband-and-wife duo form the perfect team with HiiH Lights, a paper light sculpture company STORY BY DWIGHT CASWELL • PHOTOS BY DWIGHT CASWELL & JOSHUA BESSEX


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sing their own handmade paper, Lâm Quảng and Kestrel Gates create custom lights that are both sculptural and functional at HiiH (pronounced “hi hi”) Lights. Their one-of-a-kind lamps, fixtures, chandeliers, and lighting installations have an extraordinary beauty born of traditional craftsmanship and inspired design. It all started when Quảng decided to explore the paper-making process. He experimented for a year and then studied at the Oregon School of Art and Craft. First he was fascinated with light transmitted through his handmade fibers. Then he was introduced to the lamps of famous designer Isamu Noguchi. At first, Quảng re-used thrift shop lampshade frames but, “I could only do so much, and it’s my nature to explore,” he says. “I was pushing the boundaries, not intentionally, but out of a sense of curiosity.” The sculptural aspect of Quảng’s work made sense to him, and in 1998 he opened HiiH Gallery in the Alberta Arts District of Portland. Eight years later he married Gates, and she joined him in the work. “We work on design ideas together,” she says, “and I do all of the painting as well as the business side, the bookkeeping, and marketing.” Within five years they had two children, a boy and girl. Then they decided to leave the city. “We wanted to be in a more rural setting,” says Gates, and Quảng echoes, “with access to trees and space for a garden.” In 2012, the couple was asked to show their work at Astoria’s RiverSea Gallery. “We immediately fell in love with Astoria,” Quảng says. “At first we wanted to keep the studio and gallery in Portland, but it made more sense to concentrate here, to be a presence on the coast.” Now, the family calls a rambling old Craftsman house home on the far reaches of Lewis and Clark Road, south of Astoria. There, they have a studio/gallery in a converted barn, two sheep, 25 chickens, two guinea pigs, a cat named Coco, and a dog named Bandit. They’ve also planted an extensive garden and are planning an orchard. Rain or shine you can find Quảng and Gates working in the studio with the assistance of their children, Xanh and his sister, Mai Linh, who likes to help by pulling apart pulp. That pulp, made of fibers from cotton rag and the trunk of the Abacá plant, a species of banana, is where the paper made by Quảng and Gates begins. Once formed, the sheets of paper are pressed with an eight-ton press to bind the fibers, and while still damp the paper is applied to an armature of wire or bamboo. The shapes of the lamps are inspired by an Asian aesthetic and by nature, taking the forms of flowers, sea creatures, and insects. Once the paper has dried taut, Quảng and Gates paint the pieces with watercolors and then apply a resin to protect and strengthen the lamp. Their process endows the finished lamps with a translucent, glowing quality, giving sculptural form to light.

HiiH Lights studio You can visit HiiH Lights studio; call ahead for an appointment and directions: 503-493-4367. For more information and to see an online catalog, go to www.hiihlights.com


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42 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

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make sell H A N D C R A F T E D

JEWELRY

These three local jewelry makers find inspiration for their craft from the coastal environment STORY BY REBECCA SEDLAK

Ashley Mersereau

ROOTS & WINGS JEWELRY • NEHALEM, OR

Roots & Wings pieces range between $30 and $70. You can find Ashley’s work online at rootsandwingsjewelry.etsy.com and in person at The Beehive in Nehalem, Unfurl in Manzanita, Found and Cannon Beach Gallery in Cannon Beach, Beach Books in Seaside, and Maiden Astoria in Astoria. Follow her on Instagram @Ashley_Mersereau

44 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

TOP PHOTO BY JUSTIN BAILIE. OTHER PHOTOS BY ASHLEY MERSEREAU

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hirty-year-old Ashley Mersereau has been making jewelry for over half her life. She remembers, at age 12, selling her wares at a booth during a summer festival in Nehalem. The young entrepreneur and owner of Roots & Wings Jewelry has, aptly enough, returned to her roots. Born and raised in Arch Cape, Ashley moved away for college. After graduation and a stint in AmeriCorps, she was visiting her parents in 2009, and the combination of beach, forest, and her childhood home brought things into focus. “I just had this moment of ‘Why would I not live here?’ The community just feels like home,” she says. “I’m a small-town person I think, at heart.” That decision to move back home is reflected in the name of her jewelry business: Roots & Wings. “It’s a phrase, part of a poem or something, about giving your children roots and wings,” Ashley says. “I felt like it had to do with moving back here — these are my roots and the place that I’m from — but also having the room to grow and create my own life here.” The jewelry business came about in an organic way. Since those long-ago summer craft booths, Ashley dabbled in hammering bottle cap earrings and other quirky accessories for herself and friends. After moving back to the North Coast, word spread, and soon local shops were asking to carry her pieces. Roots & Wings’ style tends toward bigger, dramatic pieces with a funky, bohemian flair. The jewelry is mostly hammered metal, wire-wrapped pieces, and semi-precious stones. Though she’s taken some jewelry classes, most of Ashley’s skills and techniques are self-taught. “I feel like nature, being outside, and the landscape here are huge sources of inspiration to me,” Ashley says. The natural world is reflected in the shapes she chooses in her earrings and necklace pendants: crescent moons, teardrops, circles, triangles, diamonds, and metal spirals inspired by ocean waves. Feathers and tassels also make occasional appearances. Ashley hand makes each piece at a work table in the living room of her Nehalem home. Some designs are best sellers, so she does production work, making multiples to keep them in stock. Occasionally she’ll do one-of-a-kind pieces, and other times she’ll create a short-run series based on a new material, style, or color combination.


Lisa Kerr

SEA FEVER DESIGN • CANNON BEACH, OR

A

PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

nyone who knows Lisa Kerr knows she isn’t short on passion. A fireball of energy, she moves around her Cannon Beach jewelry studio from one thing to the next — showing off a bracelet here, a necklace there, unfinished pieces, collections of unset stones and empty ringbands — as constantly moving as the ocean she loves. A former choreographer in Alaska and defense lawyer in Seattle, Lisa didn’t set out to become a jewelry maker. While driving south one day for a weekend in Cannon Beach, she found herself overcome with the urge to create jewelry. “This light bulb went off in my head saying, ‘You should make jewelry,’” she says. “I was like, ‘What? Where did that come from?’ I didn’t know, but all of a sudden I was just determined.” Later, on a phone call with her sister, Lisa learned her father had taken up jewelry making just before he died. A filmmaker with a passion for painting, he had instilled Lisa with a love of art — and of the ocean: Childhood summers were spent clam digging, camping, and swimming. Lisa named her business Sea Fever Design after the poem “Sea Fever” by John Masefield and in honor of her father. “We had to memorize it when I was in grade school. ‘I must go down to the sea again,’” Lisa says, quoting the poem. “I always loved that poem. When my dad died, I recited it at his funeral. He loved the sea too, and he loved that poem.” Sea Fever Design’s romantic style centers around luminous semiprecious stones: sunny citrine, green peridot, violet amethyst, and blue tourmaline. Lisa often pairs soft, contrasting colors, like rose quartz and turquoise chalcedony. Each piece is one of a kind and based on an image in Lisa’s mind. A deep blue tanzanite stone, set off with brilliant blue zircon gems, evokes the moonlight shining on water. “I like things that are fanciful and pretty and remind me of the ocean,” Lisa says. “I always have some sort of idea in my head.” She often walks along the beach looking for shells. From them, she creates a mold and uses a lost wax process to hand cast a limited number of metal versions — those tiny silver sand dollars in a pair of earrings are based on ones found on the Oregon Coast. She also uses natural objects to create organic texture on ringbands, like cuttlebone and corn husk. She’s constantly trying something new. “It doesn’t always work,” Lisa says. “You’ll find an object, cast it into silver, and you think — eh?” Sometimes the colors of two stones clash, or the torch accidentally melts something. “I’m not afraid of fire, which is lucky. One of the biggest things that stops beginners is that they’re afraid of the torch,” Lisa says, recalling the jewelry classes she’s taken. “But if you’re going to be scared or not do stuff because you’re not the star of the class — well, I’ve fallen down in dance classes so many times, and you just have to get right back up. You learn; you evolve. You have to not be afraid of failing. That’s the big thing, I think, because not everything works out the way you want. Sometimes stuff doesn’t work out, and I just wait: I save it, I don’t do anything with it, and then, eventually, I find a place for it.” Sea Fever Design jewelry pieces range in price from $80 to $300. You can find Sea Fever Design at White Bird Gallery, Cannon Beach Gallery, and Found in Cannon Beach; The Beehive in Nehalem; and online at seafeverjewelry.com

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 45


make sell

Judith Altruda

JUDITH ALTRUDA JEWELRY • TOKELAND, WA self-described beach girl raised in California’s San Gabriel Valley, Judith Altruda always knew she wanted to live in a place with evergreen trees and the ocean side by side. A teenage road trip north introduced her to the tiny town of Tokeland, which protrudes into the north end of Willapa Bay. It’s been her homebase ever since. “I love the beach here. It’s primitive, it’s wild, and you can also afford to live here and support yourself as an artist, too,” Judith says. A former professional painter and sculptor, Judith turned to jewelry making when her children were young. “Painting can be tricky to break away from,” she says. “With jewelry you can start something, and you can put it down completely and go change a diaper. You can be interrupted, and you can go back to it; nothing’s lost.” To expand her skills, Judith apprenticed at Bryan & Son Jewelry in Aberdeen for three years. Around 2005, she struck out on her own, working from her home studio and selling at the Astoria Sunday Market for seven summers. Now, the 55-year-old creates custom jewelry pieces on commission; sells wholesale to stores; travels twice a year to Southern California to do shows; and also sells through her website, on Etsy, and at RiverSea Gallery in Astoria. Each one of Judith’s jewelry pieces is one of a kind and hand fabricated. Judith incorporates ancient metalworking techniques and focuses on the texture of each piece, finding herself inspired by the local beach environment. Reticulation, which involves a near melting of silver, results in an organic texture evocative of tree bark or wet sand. Chasing creates a raised, dimensional surface; a favorite design is the labyrinth. Etching a piece in acid generates an aged look, like the metal has been eaten away by salt, air, and time. Applying a Japanese patina recipe coaxes color development and tarnish; recipes include sea salt, vinegar, ammonia, and daikon radish. “I’m very exacting about the standard of the craft,” Judith says. “When I’m making something, it’s got to be to my highest ability aesthetically and technically because this piece, it’s going to eventually end of being part of somebody’s life.” Though she uses small diamonds and pearls, Judith’s two favorite materials to use are sea glass and ancient Greek and Roman coins. Hard, durable, and colorful, sea glass is found along the northeast coast of England; 19th century glass manufacturers used to dump glass scraps into the ocean. While gemstones come calibrated in size, color, and shape, sea glass, tumbled in the ocean for decades, is one of a kind. “The ocean has shaped garbage into something precious and unique. I love that transformative quality,” Judith says. The coins she uses are fully documented and range from 300 B.C. to 160 A.D. Both materials are remnants of human endeavors and have been weathered by time and the elements. “They’re shards of prior civilizations or time periods, but nature has taken its toll,” Judith says. “When you choose to showcase it in a piece of jewelry, it’s like you’re bringing it up to the present. Once again it’s part of someone’s life today and not just from centuries ago. I think there’s something pretty magical about that.” Judith Altruda Jewelry pieces start at $200, depending on materials used. Like Judith Altruda Jewelry on Facebook, follow on Twitter @JAltruda, and visit her website judithaltruda.com

46 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

TOP PHOTO BY ERIKA LANGLEY. OTHER PHOTOS BY MARCY MERRILL

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opb.org Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 47


eat drink Feasts. Eateries. Libations. Recipes.

ourpicks •

There’s no shortage of places in the Columbia Pacific to find a good meal. Whether you’re dining out or cooking up something scrumptious in the kitchen, let these fabulous food finds inspire you.

Blackbird

Blackbird's Habanero Margarita Muddle fresh cilantro in an ice-filled shaker. Add 1.5 ounces habanero-infused tequila*, 1 ounce Patrón Citrónge Orange Liqueur, 1 ounce fresh-squeezed lime juice, and 1/2 ounce simple syrup. Shake and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with lemon, lime, or orange wheel, if desired. *To infuse tequila: With a sharp knife, score the bottom of a few habanero peppers just deep enough to pierce the skin. Submerge completely in tequila and let sit for 3 to 4 days.

Manzanita, OR There's never much room at the bar, but that's for all the right reasons: Blackbird is doing New American fare and craft cocktails right, and the word is out. Celebrating its second anniversary on Valentine's Day 2016, this restaurant is just about as adorable as the town of Manzanita itself, with a handsome open kitchen and a bar stocked four shelves high. Blackbird concentrates on keeping it local and fresh. This philosophy translates well behind the bar, too. Bright bursts of tamed cilantro and just a wink of infused heat elevate a margarita that, by all accounts, should already be christened with Cadillac status based just on the pedigree of its parts. And while the restaurant's menu changes seasonally, bartender Alexandria Cervantes assures that this Habanero Margarita is here to stay. — Ryan Hume

For more info, follow on Instagram @BlackbirdManzanita, call 503-368-7708, or visit blackbirdmanzanita.com

Pat's Pantry

Astoria, OR Step through the door of Pat's Pantry, and enter the wide world of spice. Lining the walls are hundreds of glass jars, filled with herbs and spices from the Middle East to East India and beyond. Including loose teas and salts, owners Pat Milliman and Tom Leiner stock over 350 products, all sold in bulk. On hand is everything from the basics, like chili powder and rosemary seed, to relative rarities like black cardamom pods, annatto seeds, and sumac. These spices are wildly fresher than offerings at the grocery store, as seed spices — like coriander, cumin, and cardamom — are ground fresh, in house. Pat's also offers pre-made spice mixes, like BBQ rub and curries. Each jar has a placard explaining the spice's taste, aroma, and best uses. Simply unscrewing a cap and breathing in is a culinary lesson — one that can, in a matter of seconds, take you around the world and back. Who knew your nose could take you on such a globe-trotting journey? — Andrew Tonry Follow your nose to 1153 Commercial St. in Astoria, or, if you're not in the neighborhood, visit patspantryastoria.com

48 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com


Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe

Gearhart, OR The Pacific Way Bakery & Cafe recalls a faraway place — somewhere across, well, the Atlantic. Rather than piggybacking on the many beach-themed joints on the North Coast, Pacific Way finds its inspiration in the cafes of Europe. Think espresso and croissants. Think tile and ornate design, paintings with gold-leaf frames. Think picking up loaves of fresh bread, or lingering in a salon-like discussion over philosophy and politics. (Indeed, the Pacific Way is a gathering place for Gearhart's bourgeoisie.) Or, quite simply, get that morning jolt of caffeine, and enjoy a scone, apple turnover, peach tart, Danish, or cinnamon roll. Should one require a more substantial meal, the adjoining restaurant is equally urbane. At both, a sense of the finer things is the raison d'etre. — Andrew Tonry

Beat the crowd and head to 601 Pacific Way early. For more info, visit pacificwaybakery-cafe.com

Skamokawa Farmstead Creamery

Skamokawa, WA If you've ever entertained the notion that you "don't like goat cheese," we beseech you: Give Skamakowa Farmstead Creamery a taste. (For those of you already onboard: Welcome to the party, I brought chevre!) Skamakowa's goat cheeses are absolutely marvelous. Sharp and bright yet smooth, they're excellent with just about anything: charcuterie, fruits and veggies, crumbled on a steak, melted into a sauce, or simply spread on a cracker. (Heck, we wouldn't judge you if you nibbled it from Like the farm on Facebook a spoon.) Skamakowa's flavor infusions too run the gamut, from the to get market updates and savory — like a pointed Garlic Dill and a Mediterranean-inspired visit skcreamery.com "Zeus" — to sweet: One is topped with cranberries; another blended with caramel just waits for apple slices to be dunked in. The business is expanding, and soon the cheeses should find their way to retail stores. For now, the chevres, along with ricotta and feta, can be procured at the many farmers markets throughout the region, as well as at the farm itself. There you can take a tour and perhaps even pet the 70-odd goats, some of which the farmstead's owners have taken in as rescues. Indeed, Skamakowa Farmstead Creamery loves their goats as much as we love their cheese. — Andrew Tonry

Festival of Dark Arts

Astoria, OR Held each February at the Fort George Brewery, the Festival of Dark Arts isn't quite as sinister as it sounds — unless you consider partying a sin. The festival is, first and foremost, a daylong celebration of stout. Perhaps the most malleable of all beers, stout is able to accommodate a multitude of flavors, from chocolate to cherry to chili to — gulp — oysters. As such, it is the brewmaster's favorite offspring. Or at least, it is at Fort George, which turns its campus into a veritable carnival, complete with entertainment, including fire dancers, glass blowers, belly dancers, an art gallery, tarot card readings, a full slate of musical performances,----- and an actual blacksmith, pounding metal on-site. Then, of course, there's the flood of stout, with tasting glasses to take it all in. Well, not all of it — there are some 60 varieties on hand, not limited to Fort George's offerings. The hosts will, however, have brewed up a number of limitededition batches just for the festival itself. — Andrew Tonry

The 2016 festival came and went in mid February, but that means you have a year to look forward to the next one. Find tickets and info at festivalofdarkarts.com

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coastal coffee roasters

Whether you’re a full-blown fanatic or an occasional connoisseur, every cup of coffee you drink carries the mark of human passion and persistent artistry. Here, five seasoned local roasters spill the beans on the extraordinary brew that keeps us all afloat. STORY & PHOTOS BY LYNETTE RAE MCADAMS

W

hen Rick Murray moved to Seattle from Muncie, Indiana in 1973, coffee just wasn’t his cup of tea. But a bit of time in the cold and damp brought about his quick and steadfast conversion. Before long, he was managing a storefront for an intimate little coffee roasting company no one had ever heard of, called Starbuck’s. “Those were the early, early days,” he says, “when there were three stores that sold only beans, no beverages.” Learning his craft from the

50 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

very pioneers of specialty coffee, Murray rose within the growing company until personal philosophies forced him to reevaluate: “For me, ‘corporate’ and ‘coffee’ were two things that just didn’t belong together.” That was 25 years ago, and ever since, he’s been roasting his beans in small batches on the east end of Astoria, where he sells them the way he’s always liked best — one pound at a time. “I don’t want to be big; I’m not that guy. This way, I get to meet all my customers, which is my favorite part. Coffee should be about relationships,” he says. Having come full circle in the world of coffee, and spending more than three decades discovering the nuances of every little bean, Murray approaches his roasting more like a meditation than a profession.


Wheel of Beans: In their raw state, coffee beans are small and green (center), but as they roast, they expand in size, change color, and release their fragrant oils. Here, the same variety of bean shows off the characteristics of multiple roasting levels.

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 51


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‘Roasting is a balance between an artistry of the senses and the technical aspects of heat and chemistry — and that’s the part of coffee that I really love.’ “There’s no right or wrong way to roast coffee,” he says, sounding every bit the Zen master, “but there is an understanding. To get those beautiful flavors, you really need to know it, and you need to treat it well.” Rick’s most popular coffee is his darkest roast, XDPNG, but he has a brew for Rick’s most popular coffee is his darkest roast, XDPNG, but he has a brew just about any occasion. Strolling the Riverwalk? Go for the Bouy 10 blend. Falling for just about any occasion. Strolling the Riverwalk? Go for the Bouy 10 in love? Try Something Brewing in Uppertown. Nursing a heartache? Reach for blend. Falling in love? Try Something Brewing in Uppertown. Nursing a Frank Sumatra every time. heartache? Reach for Frank Sumatra every time.

Rick Murray, owner at Astoria Coffee Co., with a scoop full of freshly roasted XDPNG (extra dark Papua New Guinea). Jon Reimer, operations manager at Columbia River Coffee Roaster in Astoria tucks in among bags of imported raw coffee beans.

The first pre-roasted coffee beans in the U.S. retailed in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania in 1865. Before that, coffee was purchased in its “green” state and roasted by hand at home. 52 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

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was probably only 4 years old when I first started sneaking it from my mom’s cup,” says Jon Reimer, smiling over a steaming mug of freshly brewed Tanzania peaberry. “And it was terrible stuff, too — just the cold dregs at the bottom that she’d left sitting out for hours. But even then, I couldn’t stay away.” His first tastes of specialty coffee didn’t come until 2004, when he started entry-level work for Columbia River Coffee Roaster, a fixture in the regional coffee scene since 1992. “That was when it started to click why coffee was cool,” he recalls, and he’s never looked back. Now the company’s operations manager, overseeing all aspects of buying, roasting, packaging, and delivery, Reimer seems to have found his true calling. “It’s incredible that we take something grown halfway around the world, add our own special signatures, and turn it into a delicious beverage. Roasting is a balance between an artistry of the senses and the technical aspects of heat and chemistry — and that’s the part of coffee that I really love.” With a goal to consistently coax distinctive flavors from every bean, Reimer says that each 100-pound batch they roast begins exactly the same way: “We start by treating the coffee with respect. We look at each one individually — the variety of the bean, the exact location where it was grown — and then we roast it to its very best potential, every single time.”

Hands down, it’s Thundermuck that rules Jon’s roaster: a complex blend of Hands down, it’s Thundermuck that rules Jon’s roaster: a complex blend coffees from many different regions. Walking the beach? Look out for Jonny of coffees from many different regions. Walking the beach? Look out for Tsunami. For cloudy skies, reach for Rainy Day Blues; and when the sun shines, Jonny Tsunami. For cloudy skies, reach for Rainy Day Blues; and when it’s the World forRecommended Lewis and Clark:forClatsop Spit. sunPeace shines,allit’saround. World Recommended Peace all around. Lewis and Clark lovers: Clatsop Spit.


S

itting on a comfortable couch in her downtown Long Beach shop, next to a thriving coffee plant she calls “Peter Parker” (her godson named it), Kelly Walker offers a huge smile before admitting she’s one of the lucky few who has never been subjected to bad coffee. “If there’s one thing my parents drilled into us, it was to always drink good beer, good wine, and, most importantly, good coffee,” she says. Growing up in the Pacific Northwest, she found it an easy edict to follow; and now, as owner, roast master, buyer, and barista at Long Beach Coffee Roasters since 2009, it’s a promise that goes into every bean she roasts. Committed to small batch perfection, the multi-tasking maven is the very definition of a micro-roaster, working with only 10 to 12 pounds of coffee at a time to ensure that all that flavor and freshness finds its way to every cup. Looking to connect her customers to the distinctive characteristics within her single-origin specialty roasts, Walker is adept at the language of the true connoisseur and can size up a customer’s taste preferences in a heartbeat. A couple of questions and a few sips later, and even the uninitiated start talking about “round caramel undertones” and “smooth nutty finishes.” “We’ve become so used to putting sugar in our coffee that we mask the wonderful flavors that are inherent to every bean,” she says. “Walking into a micro-roaster, people have the chance to sample something really special, a chance to taste the truly unique. I like to encourage my customers to try new things — coffee should be a great adventure.” Kelly’s salty locals are partial to the way she roasts her Monsooned Malabar, Kelly’s salty locals are partial to the way she roasts her Monsooned Malabar, a rare varietal from the coast of India, available in late winter. If she were pouring a rare varietal from the coast of India, available in late winter. If she were pouring for Lewis and Clark, she’d offer her Discovery Coast Dark, and the legendary Chief for Lewis and Clark, she’d offer her Discovery Coast Dark, and the legendary Nahcotti would no doubt swoon over her Shoalwater Blend. Chief Nahcotti would no doubt swoon over her Shoalwater Blend.

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or Tim Wunderlich, roasting coffee is all about love. A former Portland stockbroker, he and wife, Michelle, bought their Seaside coffee house and roasting business about five years ago, when they realized that life in the city just wasn’t for them. Both natives of Oregon’s North Coast, they wanted their kids to have what they’d had — a childhood at the beach, rich with natural splendor and steeped in the comfort of small community. “We were searching for a lifestyle change,” Wunderlich says. In the end, it was coffee that brought them home. Mostly self-taught at the business of turning beans, Wunderlich had to become a fast study at the roaster. “There was a big learning curve there,” he admits, but determination and a natural bent for precision brought about quick success. “I’m always trying to get better,” he says. “I’ll try anything I think might help me become more consistent with my roasts.” Appreciating that many factors play into the final flavors of a coffee, Wunderlich keeps copious notes on every batch — just as he has since the beginning — recording the finest of details, down to the weather outside, and tasting his product religiously. “I was born for this life,” he says, his voice filled with gratitude. “To be able to participate in making something of such quality, and to do it at the beach, surrounded by my family — who could imagine anything better?” Timand andMichelle Michellehave havea alocal localclientele clientele that yearn Midnight Rendezvous. Tim that yearn forfor Midnight Rendezvous. ForFor walking the their Riptide Riptideblend, blend,and and if they were walking theProm, Prom,they theyrecommend recommend their if they were pouring forfor Lewis and Clark, they’ d suggest the pouring Lewis and Clark, they’ d suggest thePirate’s Pirate’sBooty. Booty.

Kelly Walker, owner of Long Beach Coffee Roasters, sits before a coffee plant in a quiet corner of her downtown shop. Tim and Michelle Wunderlich, owners of Seaside Coffee Roasters, outside their downtown location.

“Black as the devil, Hot as hell, Pure as an angel, Sweet as love.” — Charles Maurice de Talleyrand, on all that coffee should be Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 53


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coastal coffee roasters Astoria Coffee Co. 304 37th St., Astoria, Oregon 503-325-7768

Columbia River Coffee Roaster 279 W. Marine Drive, Astoria, Oregon thundermuck.com • 800-239-9809

Long Beach Coffee Roasters 811 Pacific Ave., Long Beach, Washington longbeachcoffee.com • 360-642-2334

Seaside Coffee Roasters 5 N. Holladay Drive, Seaside, Oregon seasidecoffeeroasters.com • 503-717-0111

Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters 1235 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, Oregon sleepymonkcoffee.com • 503-436-2796 Joel Bernhard, of Sleepy Monk Coffee Roasters, helms his company’s 50-pound-capacity roaster in Cannon Beach.

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t’s 93 degrees in the roasting room at the Sleepy Monk, but for Joel Bernhard, it seems like heaven on earth — just the sort of sentiment you’d expect at an establishment whose standards have been elevated to a nearly spiritual level. Owned by a trio of coffee virtuosos (Bernhard is one, along with Rachel Conyers and Rebecca Parker), the company lives by a strict discipline: Keep it simple, but do it really well. “I was lucky to learn from a master,” says Bernhard, who apprenticed for a full year (in the “truest sense of the word”) before flying solo on roasting. “Along the way, your feelings get hurt now and then, but it’s all for the better of the finished product,” he says, adding that in his mind, the old ways are still the finest. “Coffee is so entirely special, and I think at the heart of what we do here, there’s an awareness of that. The farmers spend all year working so hard — first planting it, then growing it organically, harvesting it by hand, and drying it in the sun. After that, it has to be packaged properly and carried to a ship, where it will be loaded and stored to cross over oceans and through multiple ports before being handled and trucked again — all this before it’s even been roasted. “By the time it’s brewed, one cup of coffee has passed literally through a thousand hands,” says Bernhard breathlessly. “If there’s a secret to our success, it’s that each of us is doing our best, all the time, to honor that commitment at every level.”

Joel’spersonal personal favorite favorite isis his his Fiddler’s Joel’s Fiddler’s Fusion, Fusion, but but it’s it’s the theMonastery MonasteryBlend Blendthat thatbrings bringsthe locals theirtoknees. Best pick clamming? Try Bogsman Brew. Nursing a heartache? Reach for theto locals their knees. Bestforpick for clamming? Try Bogsman Brew. Nursing a heartache? Rusty Nail. Reach for Rusty Nail. 54 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

beanbasics

Actually the seeds of a berry, coffee beans are cultivated at high altitudes throughout the tropical regions that encircle the globe. Once harvested and dried, they must be roasted before being ground and brewed for drinking. In ways similar to wine, the flavor of coffee depends on both its variety as well as the characteristics of where and how it was grown, and it’s the roasting of the bean that brings these flavors to the surface. Roasting to the basic levels we call “light,”“medium,” or “dark” brings out different qualities in different beans; a coffee roaster’s trademark is in how they apply heat to arouse the specific flavors that they seek.


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“aaaaah...”

6th annual

ASOC annual

(or how the Finns Discovered Astoria!)

Fridays & Saturdays 7pm October 7-22 Sunday matinee 2pm October 16

Fall Production

Real Lewis & Clark Story 2016 Fridays & Saturdays 7pm • April 8-24 Sundays 2pm • April 17 & 30

T H E O W N E RSW O U L D L O V E T O SH A R E T H E E X PE R IE N C E W IT H YO U A ST O R IA ,O R E G O N M on -T hu r 7am –4pm Fri 7am –5pm

ASTOR STREET OPRY COM PANY

May Readers Theater Fundraiser

“oooooh...”

3rd annual

“Be an ASOC Angel” Fundraiser

Friday & Saturday 7pm • May 13-21 Sunday Matinee 2pm • May 15

November 9 • 6pm

Tenor Guitar Gathering

21st annual

Saturday & Sunday • May 28 & 29

Starving Artist Faire December 2-4

32nd season of

Shanghaied in Astoria Thursdays-Saturdays 7pm • July 7-Sept. 10 Sunday Maintees 2pm • July 24, Aug. 14 and Sept. 4

10th annual

Scrooged in Astoria Fridays & Saturdays 7pm December 2-18 Sunday Matinees 2pm December 11 & 18

Tickets on sale one hour before all shows! Reservations recommended

129 W. BOND STREET (UNIONTOWN) ASTORIA

wwwa.astorstreetoprycompany.com

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Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 55


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Dive Ba rs

STORIES BY MATT LOVE, DWIGHT CASWELL & RYAN HUME • PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX & DWIGHT CASWELL

As the novelist Jim Harrison once wrote,“How can you experience the rich fabric of life in a locale without visiting the bars? The answer is, you can’t.” Anyone visiting this region who seeks authenticity should consider investigating one — or several — of the great dive bars that populate the area.

CHESTER CLUB AND OYSTER BAR

This “old, real old” dive bar in rural Washington has two pool tables and a real CD jukebox (not the accursed digital kind).

South Bend, WA The Chester Club and Oyster Bar in South Bend sits atop pilings on the Willapa River. At low tide, there is nothing but mud below. The décor consists of old promotional posters featuring buxom babes and hundreds of photographs documenting historic partying. They serve deep-fried local oysters and oysters in shot glasses. And booze. — Matt Love

PORTWAY TAVERN Astoria, OR Astoria’s oldest dive still has the trap door through which inebriates once departed for Shanghai. No fears today in this Coast Guard-themed watering hole famous for burgers. A shorter beer list than some, but more craft beers than most. Not upscale, exactly, but brassieres no longer hang from the ceiling. —Dwight Caswell Explore the past and present fascinations of the nearly 100-year-old Portway, the oldest watering hole in the oldest American settlement west of the Rockies.

56 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

THE CHART ROOM Astoria, OR When nursing a fugitive mood, there’s no better place to hide out than The Chart Room. No windows, booths along the wall, marble-top bar — what the kids call “an old man bar.” The cast of characters is immense. Shots get poured. Sans natural light, be careful — days have a way of sneaking into night. — Ryan Hume


BEACH CLUB TAVERN

DIVE BAR

Seaside, OR Tranquility rules the Beach Club Tavern in Seaside. The place doesn’t serve liquor and is probably one of the last remaining dives on Earth that stocks Rainier in long neck. Management prefers it quiet and won’t allow loud profanity. A sign reads: “I do not want to hear the F word in here. If I have to tell you twice, you’re gone.” — Matt Love

noun: [dahyv bahr]

1. A well-worn, unglamorous bar, often serving a cheap, simple selection of drinks to a regular clientele. urbandictionary.com

Beach Club Tavern 14 N. Downing St. Seaside, Oregon

The Beach Club boasts high-backed bar stools with white fringe dangling from the armrests. You almost feel like Buffalo Bill Cody sitting in them.

DESDEMONA CLUB

Known as the “Dirty D” by locals, the Desdemona Club serves breakfast Friday and Saturday nights from 11 p.m. to 2 a.m.

Astoria, OR The Desdemona Club — or Dirty D as it’s known in Astoria — opened in 1934, and features porthole windows casting weird cylindrical light. The joint was named after the Desdemona, a ship that wrecked in the Columbia River in 1857 or the Shakespearean character murdered by her jealous husband, Othello. Either way, it works for a dive bar. The Dirty D features the classiest pool tables in Astoria, long shuffleboard tables, beer and liquor, and a kitchen to crank out the hot dive bar food required to keep diving. — Matt Love

Bridge Tender 554 Broadway Seaside, Oregon The Chart Room 1196 Marine Drive Astoria, Oregon Chester Club and Oyster Bar 1005 Robert Bush Drive W. South Bend, Washington Desdemona Club 2997 Marine Drive Astoria, Oregon Dock of the Bay 380 Dike Road Bay Center, Washington Duffy’s Irish Pub 3779 WA SR 4, Grays River, Washington Iredale Inn 159 S. Main Ave. Warrenton, Oregon Relief Pitcher 2795 S. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, Oregon Merry Time Bar & Grill 995 Marine Drive Astoria, Oregon Mary Todd’s Workers Bar & Grill 281 W. Marine Drive Astoria, Oregon

BRIDGE TENDER Seaside, OR At the Tender, even the tourists are semi-regulars. Folks stop by every time they head to the beach. Locals count their regular-status credentials by the generation. (The Bridge Tender celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2015.) Inside, not too much has changed since grandpa’s day: The vintage cigarette machine still spits out packs, but now the jukebox spins CDs. This dive is housed in a gray wooden box that reportedly used to be a brothel. Grab a seat by one of the massive windows overlooking the Necanicum River. Once you see a crane pluck a fish straight from the soup, you too may be coming back for years. — Ryan Hume

Morgan’s Long Beach Tavern 305 Pacific Ave. Long Beach, Washington Portway Tavern 422 W. Marine Drive Astoria, Oregon Triangle Tavern 222 W. Marine Drive Astoria, Oregon

There’s More to Discover

Visit www.discoverourcoast.com for a more detailed look at the dive bars on Our Coast


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THE TRIANGLE TAVERN

Meet genuine locals and talk to the personable bar tenders at this small Astoria dive.

Astoria, OR The Triangle Tavern under the Astoria Bridge in Uniontown opens at 10 in the morning, seven days a week. This historic bar, erected in 1922, is a languid place to hang out. Expect to meet a fascinating assortment of characters in the Triangle. They are ripped straight from the pages of Steinbeck’s Cannery Row. They know to spin yarns. — Matt Love

MARY TODD’S WORKERS BAR & GRILL Astoria, OR Mary Todd’s is by far the friendliest bar in Oregon, where rounds bought for the house get stacked three deep. Workers (the preferred name by those in the know) does everything its own way. Two words: meat bingo. It’s impossible to spend any time at Workers without running into Mary Todd herself, who is the polar opposite of Lincoln’s widow. All are welcome at Workers, but check the attitude at the door. The proprietress has enough for all. — Ryan Hume The off-kilter decor at Mary Todd’s includes patio, union memorabilia, maritime flotam, oyster shell ashtrays on the outdoor bills. dollar signed of mural a and

DUFFY’S IRISH PUB Grays River, WA From the front it’s funky. From the back it looks about to slide into Grays River. Inside it’s like going back to the old sod, everything an Irish pub should be. Friendly people, good food, pool table, chess set, and a small stage. Those unfamiliar with the beers on draft should sample first. — Dwight Caswell

IREDALE INN Warrenton, OR Question: What is the ultimate recommendation for an excellent dive bar? Answer: Years ago, a tsunami warning sounded in the Warrenton area. Some of the locals didn’t head to high ground; instead, they went to the Iredale Inn in Warrenton. What else is there left to say about a joint that inspires this kind of reckless loyalty? Nothing. — Matt Love

58 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

This classic working-man’s tavern has sports on TV, a pool table, and good beer on tap.


MORGAN’S LONG BEACH TAVERN Long Beach, WA If not for the menu, which features locally hooked fish, it would be easy to imagine the Long Beach Tavern existing deep within a forest. Dropped into Long Beach’s vintage, Disneyfied downtown, the LBT’s façade hides in plain sight on the strip. Inside, the décor is straight up logger bar — there’s even a woodstove, emblazoned with the bar’s name. It never seems empty, even in the afternoon. The tavern is celebrated for its pizza, not to mention its $3 mixed drinks. — Ryan Hume

Rack up one of two pool tables in the back of the LBT, and be pleased or disappointed that karaoke is relegated to only Saturday nights.

MERRY TIME BAR & GRILL

DOCK OF THE BAY Bay Center, WA This dive leans hard by the Bay Center harbor. The beer of choice is Rainier, mountain fresh. Nobody watches TV unless the Seahawks are on, and the juke box is never used. Try the oyster burger or the Willapa Whopper. Want napkins? Here’s a roll of paper towels. Tales tall and otherwise. Ask about Mudflat Molly. — Dwight Caswell

Astoria, OR Fast Eddie racks ‘em up while tennis plays on a really big screen that nobody watches. Somebody plays Duck Dynasty. For the guys at the bar it’s Busch or Busch and a bump. People come to eat at Merry Time, too. Try the $5 happy hour burger, 4 to 7 p.m. every day. There’s also pinball, video poker, and keno. — Dwight Caswell Even the lavatories declare this a no-holds barred sports dive

RELIEF PITCHER

Just a hair north of the U.S. 26 and 101 juncture, the Relief Pitcher boasts an amazing backyard.

Seaside, OR The Relief Pitcher has a secret. Nope, not the hand-cut fries and dishes cooked to order. Or its awesome albacore tuna steak. Or the freshly squeezed grapefruit and orange juice. Right behind the joint is probably the longest backyard of any bar on the Oregon Coast. Fitted with three horseshoe courts and a fire pit, there’s also a walk-up window to re-up without venturing inside. Not every roadhouse needs a Patrick Swayze manning the door, but this one might once word gets out. — Ryan Hume

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 59


Chef/Owner Lalewicz has “food angels singing in the kitchen” ~ NW Palate

A storia

Crest Motel The Astoria Crest Motel sits on nearly three acres, overlooking the Mighty Columbia River. We feature “Epic” views, continental breakfast, meeting space for events up to 50, meal functions to 32 and outdoor space that can expand to even larger groups. 5366 Leif Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-3141 • 800-421-3141 www.astoriacrestmotel.com reservations@astoriacrestmotel.com COME AND EXPERIENCE REASONABLE PRICES WITH EPIC VIEWS

The Perfect Ocean Getaway One and two bedroom cottages surrounded by charming gardens and relaxing patio areas. Private path to waters edge. Pet friendly.

2209 Boulevard North, Long Beach

1-800-646-2351 www.theanchoragecottages.com

Covered Heated Deck Peninsula’s Only Display Kitchen www.depotrestaurantdining.com 1208 38th Place (on the Seaview Beach approach)

Minutes from Downtown & Astoria Attractions 42 Room s • 14 D eluxe Kitchens • C a ble w ith H BO Colum bia RiverView • Free W ireless Internet

FR EE C O N TIN EN TA L BR EA K FA S T

360-642-7880

To ll-free R es erva tio n s (866) 322-8047

FR ID G E, M IC R O W AV E & C O FFEE IN EV ER Y R O O M

(503) 325-2921 • 59 W Marine Dr., Astoria 60 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

www.rivershoremotel.com

Seaside is the perfect setting for your next convention, trade show , or event.

Contact Gretchen Darnell 503.738.8585 / 800.394.3303

seasideconvention.com


Join us at

Peninsula Golf Course & The Cove Restaurant OPEN 7 DAYS

Award winning golf and food can be found just one mile north of downtown Long Beach Public 9 hole course * Power Carts * Dog Friendly Serving 4 star food in a friendly relaxed atmosphere * On & Off-Site Catering *Beer * Wine * Prime Rib * Burgers * Seafood * Home Made Soups

W PAC E CA N K SEA FRE S FORFOOD H RID TH EH E OM E!

Enjoy a great view of the golf course while you dine! Come see why we are the friendliest course on the coast! Find The Cove on Yelp and see our reviews!

9604 Pacific Way, Long Beach • 360-642-2828 www.peninsulagolfcourse.com

Families ! Welcome • “Good Old-Fashioned Food” Hamburgers, Hot Dogs, Fish & Chips– your choice of Cod, Salmon or Halibut • Freshly Made Clam Chowder in a Sourdough Bread Bowl • Sweet Baby Back Ribs, or Prime Rib Fridays & Saturdays 4 pm - close... with baked potato & choice of soup or small salad

• Nightly Dinner Specials

• Fresh Home-made Soups Daily • Hand-Made Specialty Milk Shakes in 21+ flavors & Soft-Serve Ice Cream • Sunday Breakfast Buffet • Outside (Pet Friendly) Dining Sausage, Bacon, Eggs Benedict, Biscuits & Gravy, • Kids Menu Specials Fresh Fruit, Hash Browns, Coffee, Juice, Milk • Kite Room - Reserve for your next and More. A LOCAL FAVORITE! function

www.hungryharbor.com 313 Pacific Hwy, Downtown Long Beach, WA Free Wifi

360-642-5555

Open Daily 10 am – 9 pm & Sunday 9 am – 9 pm Winter Hours 11 am – 8 pm

• Serving Breakfast, Lunch, & Dinner • Complete Facilities for Banquets, Meetings & Receptions • Wedding Parties & Rehearsal Dinners Welcome • Gift Shop • Locals favorite stop on the way to Portland or on your way here

503-755-1818

www.camp18restaurant.com We also do rders” “To Go O

U.S. Highway 26 at Milepost 18, In Elsie

BELL BOUY

OF SEASIDE

FRESH SEAFOOD MARKET 738-2722 • 800-529-2722 1800 S. Roosevelt on Hwy 101 www.bellbuoyofseaside.com

The

BOUY’S BEST

FISH HOUSE

HALIBUT FISH & CHIPS 503-738-6348

So Many Ways to Play! ASTORIA AQUATIC CENTER

ASTORIA RECREATION CENTER

1997 Marine Drive Heated swimming pools, lap pool, infant/toddler pool, the Big Red Slide, fitness room with free-weights, exercise machines, and cardio equipment. Dropins welcome.

1555 W. Marine Drive Kids Zone, Day Camps, Fitness Classes including Boot Camp, Pound, and Cycling. Drop-ins welcome. Class schedules available online.

5am to 7pm Weekdays 9am to 4pm Saturdays 11am to 4pm Sundays

AND MORE

PORT OF PLAY

Also enjoy the Riverwalk, Astoria Column, Garden of Surging Waves, and our natural areas, trails, and neighborhood parks!

785 Alameda Ave Indoor play park with bounce house, rock climbing wall & hands on interactive activities.

Follow us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter.

10am–4pm Monday - Saturday Noon–4pm Sunday

www.astoriaparks.com

THE

SHIP INN BRITISH PUB & RESTAURANT Patio • Lounge Fireplace • River View

FISH & CHIPS

ENGLISH SPECIALTIES OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK • CLOSED ON TRADITIONAL HOLIDAYS

#1 2nd St., Astoria (503) 325-0033 Handicapped Access

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 61


eat drink

WE ALL SCREAM FOR LOCAL

ICE CREAM STORY BY ANDREW TONRY • PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX & ANDREW TONRY

THE NORTH COAST IS ON THE CUSP OF A NEW ICE (CREAM) AGE

H

“Homemade ice cream is the craft beer of this decade,” says Mike Exinger of Zinger’s Homemade Ice Cream in Seaside. And while local reinvigoration of the frozen dessert may not be quite as ubiquitous as small-batch breweries on the North Coast, the presence of ice cream shops is on the march; three of the four places on this list didn’t exist before 2014. The base for homemade ice cream is dead simple — milk, cream, eggs, and sugar. It is elevated with high-quality ingredients. But don’t let a brief recipe fool you: The options for flavor are nearly limitless,

bound only by a maker’s creativity. Flavors run from the traditional (vanilla, chocolate, fruit) to the nouveau (sea salts and pastries) to the outlandish (salmon?!). And to the dairy adverse: Don’t avert your eyes! Each of the following shops offers multiple vegan alternatives. With such a canvas at their frozen fingertips, local ice cream makers feel free to funnel their personalities into their creations. Indeed, the North Coast is on the cusp of a new ice (cream) age.


ZINGER’S HOMEMADE ICE CREAM 210 Broadway, Seaside facebook.com/zingersicecream

Frite & Scoop’s signature made Hokey Pokey, center, is and d tar cus am cre t ee sw with dy. can mb handmade honeyco

HERE’S THE

SCOOP

FRITE & SCOOP 175 14th St., Astoria friteandscoop.com

ON THESE FOUR LOCAL HOMEMADE ICE CREAM ARTISANS

ZINGER’S “I’m old-fashioned,” says Mike Exinger, co-owner of Zinger’s Homemade Ice Cream in Seaside. That’s true in a number of ways, not the least of which being that Zinger’s has made its ice cream in-house since 2004 — that’s about a decade longer than anyone else on this list. “We make ice cream for people who remember what ice cream was all about,” Exinger says. At Zinger’s, that means an indulgently creamy base. (Signs around the shop boast Zinger’s 18 percent butter fat content as substantially higher than the competition.) It’s rich. Flavors like Strawberry, Oregon Hazelnut, and Raspberry Chocolate Chip hem toward the classic. As Exinger describes it, the taste at Zinger’s is “more adult” and “not too modern.” Still, they’re not above experimenting. The texture of Zinger’s Banana Pudding ice cream changes as it melts. And Grasshopper Pie, which was introduced in 2014, has become a top-seller.

FRITE & SCOOP When Kevin and Lisa Malcolm moved from Seattle to Astoria in 2014 they were astonished to find no one offering homemade ice cream. So they decided to take a shot at turning Kevin’s burgeoning ice cream hobby into a business, and Frite & Scoop was born. Lisa too has her part. “I went to pastry school,” she says. “I make the curds, toffees, caramels, cookies — everything that goes in there I make.” (She’s also in charge of the obsessively prepared Belgian fries, aka Frites, and their 14 dipping sauces.) “We’re control freaks,” Lisa says. “We want to control every part of the flavor.” That means creating a strawberry curd to put in the ice cream rather than leaving in little chunks of whole strawberry that would get icy. Other flavors include an Earl Grey tea with swirls of lemon curd, the “Hokey Pokey,” with a charmingly textured, caramelized homemade honeycomb candy, and a decadent Vegan Chocolate Brownie Batter.

SEA STAR GELATO 8 N. Columbia St., Seaside, facebook.com/seastargelato

BUTTERCUP 35815 U.S. Hwy. 101, Nehalem www.buttercup101.com


eat drink Marshmallow At Buttercup, es on a m ice cream co ed graham pp di chocolatecracker cone.

Zinger’s homemad e Grasshopper Pie ice cream is a top seller.

Blackberry Cobbler arrives on a cinnamon cone – an excellent ice-cold ode to pie.

The flavor of Sea Star’s Chocolate Mint gelato shines.

SEA STAR GELATO “Ice cream’s gotten more creative,” says Sea Star Gelato co-owner Tracy Nye. “They got that from gelato.” Indeed, Nye isn’t shy about his preference for gelato: He finds it far superior to regular ice cream. Part of that difference, he says, is that gelato’s lower fat content allows the flavors to shine through a creamy din. (Gelato contains 3 to 8 percent butterfat, compared to ice cream’s 10 to 20 percent.) Sea Star boasts a myriad of flavors, more than twice as many as the other shops on this list (and also a greater array of dairy-free options, including sorbets). The bright colors and sculpted presentation of Sea Star’s offerings are striking. So are the tastes. Among the most popular are a Salted Caramel, Watermelon Lime, and Coffee, which is mixed with shots pulled straight from a house espresso machine.

BUTTERCUP Buttercup owner Julie Barker is a renown restauranteur who has helmed a number of beloved eateries on the North Coast. As such, her’s is the most complex, adventurous, and culinarily sophisticated ice cream shop around. (It’s also the only one where you can get a real meal — Buttercup’s made-toorder chowder is absolutely marvelous.) “The single most important thing we do is pair ice cream with cones,” Barker says. “No one else anywhere in the country is doing that.” And while you can certainly choose the cone of your desire, it’s worth following Buttercup’s lead. 64 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

Marshmallow, for instance, comes on a chocolate-dipped graham cracker cone (s’mores anyone?). Blackberry Cobbler arrives on cinnamon. Then it really gets fun: Spiced Apple on a homemade cheddar waffle cone. It might sound strange, but it works. Fig Goat Cheese on a Marcona Almond cone. Each month Barker creates a new collaborative flavor with the help of local chefs, farmers, friends, and so on. Here she pushes boundaries: An ice cream with locally sourced salmon? Worth a try, if nothing else. Carrot cake from a local baker: Sign me up. Either way, for those seeking something new, or simply sweet and delicious, Buttercup runneth over.


N

imella’s J &

ci n a Of The Ark Restaurant

Owner/Chef Nanci Sofia Main and Jimella’s protégé Chef Katie Witherbee invite you to enjoy Northwest specialities from the legendary Ark Restaurant as well as ethnic creations, homemade breads, fine wines and desserts. Enjoy cocktails in our cozy lounge.

A Local Favorite

timeless. invigorating. DELICIOUS.

360-665-4847 • 21712 Pacific Way eat@jimellaandnancis.com jimellaandnancis.com

303 Sid Synder Drive, Long Beach, WA 360-642-4020 www.worldkitemuseum.com A great destination for fun for all! Experience the history and art of kites through video and interactive elements. Make your own kite and fly it here on the world’s longest beach! Visit today!

Featuring:

• Bold heroes and story characters on kites from Japan • Delicately painted Chinese silk kites • Kites that saved lives in WWII • Exhibit featuring Kite Surfing, Buggying, Land Boarding and other extreme kiting sports

Visit Our Museum Store for:

Admission Includes Kite Making! Open Daily, 11am to 5pm April to September Open Friday - Tuesday 11am to 5pm October - March

• Kites for flying on the beach • Books about kite making, flying & history • Postcards, T-shirts, jewelry & posters

FUNBEACH.COM | 360.642.2400 Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 65


live stay Homes. Rentals. Hotels. Campgrounds.

ourpicks •

If you’re visiting the Columbia Pacific overnight — or, as a local, taking a well-deserved staycation — you need a place to lay your head. Reserve a room, hook up your RV, or pitch a tent: These places are aces in our book.

The Sou'Wester Lodge Seaview, WA Nestled in historic Seaview, this iconic property is a playground for retro-loving bohemians. With a mix of private cabins, vintage trailers, and in-lodge suites, as well as tent and RV campsites, guests can take their pick of ultra cool accommodations — all only a five-minute walk to the beach. Be prepared for a funky (and fabulous) trip back through time: The fleet of antique trailers come loaded with mid-century charm, each one replete with record player or old-school radio, shag rugs, melamine dinnerware, and chenille bedspreads. Follow the lodge on Need a little more room? Spread out in a furnished cabin Twitter @Souwesterlodge, or suite (with kitchen and private bathroom) in the same on Instagram @Souwester, historic lodge that's welcomed visitors since 1892. and find more info at Campers will delight in the outdoor kitchen and recently souwesterlodge.com remodeled restrooms, and all guests are welcome to relax in the new garden spa and Finnish sauna or gather in one of the many common areas that make up the true heart of this eclectic establishment. An on-site grocery featuring local products, regular live music, wellness packages (which include time with the staff massage therapist), and a flourishing artist-in-residence program all speak to the Sou’Wester's commitment to progressive thinking. — Lynette Rae McAdams

Fort Stevens State Park Hammond, OR Perched where the Columbia River makes its dash into the sea, this 4,300-acre park is a wonderland of natural and cultural history. For thousands of years it was home to the indigenous Clatsop people; in a later life, the U.S. military established a fortress to defend the river during three wars. Today, Fort Stevens is still standing guard — only now as a custodian of heritage, and there's no better way to explore the depth of its riches than an overnight stay in the park's campground. Whether you're pulling a 40-foot motorhome or pitching the most diminutive of tents, with more than 500 sites to choose from, you'll easily find your perfect outdoor niche. Consider a stay in a yurt (hello, heater), or even a deluxe cabin (with private bathroom). Hiker/biker sites offer quiet rest for the weary. Four campsites, eight cabins, and 10 yurts are accessible to campers with disabilities. Immaculate restrooms abound, with showers that are hot and always free. (Inside tip: Loops F and G have the most private sites amid the trees; Loops N and O open up to catch the sun and share a path to Coffenbury Lake.) — Lynette Rae McAdams

66 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

Book a campsite by calling 800-551-6949 or visit oregonstateparks.org


Boreas Inn

For more info call 360-642-8069, or visit boreasinn.com Long Beach, WA Tucked sweetly back from the bustle of Long Beach, this charming bed and breakfast combines the best of every world. While close enough to town to be convenient, its oceanfront location remains wrapped in tranquility, with lush private gardens thriving against a backdrop of Pacific dunes. Inside, five guest suites offer the height of luxury, while cozy common areas, replete with fireplaces and reading nooks, let you relax in casual elegance. Your satisfaction with Boreas is bound to be as high as the thread count of their linens. Sink into sleep in any one of their down-laden beds (most with ocean, sky, or garden views) and the only thing that could possibly coax you from the covers will be the scent of the three-course breakfast that awaits you every morning at the oh-so-civilized hour of 9 a.m. Every meal showcases the region's bounty, with specialties like Willapa blackberry scones and wild mushroom frittatas making regular appearances. Add to that the superb concierge services of an inn-keeping couple, and there's a pretty good chance you'll never want to leave. — Lynette Rae McAdams

LOST ART OF NURSING MUSEUM & GALLERY

OPEN

SUMMER SATURDAY AFTERNOONS & BY APPOINTMENT YEAR ROUND

FREE ADMISSION www.pronurse.com (301) 208-8060

3285 S. HEMLOCK CANNON BEACH Large selection of jackets, handbags, belts, accessories & jewelry

North Coast Chorale Spring Concert - May Winter Concert - December

Tolovana Inn

Find the inn on Facebook, on Twitter @TolovanaInn, and online at www.tolovanainn.com

Cannon Beach, OR As much as it’s a hotel, the Tolovana Inn can double as a home-away-fromhome. Along with fireplaces and private balconies, the inn’s suites include full kitchens. Certain rooms in the multi-building complex are pet friendly, so your pooch can enjoy a stroll on the beach (rather than a weekend in the kennel). The hotel complex also boasts an indoor salt-water pool (no more red eyes and dry skin!), spa, sauna, and fitness center. Located on the south end of town, the beaches around the inn are generally less crowded, yet still within walking distance of Haystack Rock (and just a five-minute drive to downtown). Surfcrest Market and Warren House Pub (families welcome) are a few steps away, and Mo’s restaurant is within the hotel complex itself. So, right there, you’ve got just about all the essentials covered. And, in a town that can be spendy, basic rooms at the Tolovana Inn are about as good a value as you’ll find. To that end, be sure to check the inn’s web-only specials. — Andrew Tonry

We sing Jazz, Gospel, Sacred & Traditional Music Interested in singing? Come to an NCC rehearsal & sing with us! 6:45 Tues. nights at the Performing Arts Center, 16th & Franklin, Astoria. We Just Can’t Keep from Singing! www.Northcoastchorale.org

239 N. Hemlock, Cannon Beach

503.436.0208

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 67


live stay

Traveling

WITH YOUR PET? STORY BY RYAN HUME • PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

LOCAL HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, AND SHOPS CATER TO YOUR EVERY CANINE NEED

There are businesses that cater to a dog’s every need. Our Coast’s picks of the litter showcase the hotels, restaurants, and shops that go above and beyond and are sure to make your next four-legged-friendly beach vacation unique.

68 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

STAY POOCHES ON THE PENINSULA: Long Beach’s beachfront Adrift Hotel (adrifthotel.com) has played host to all manner of dogs, cats, pigs, rabbits, and, even once, a bearded dragon. For an extra $50 (plus the cost of the room and tax), the Treat Yourself Treat Your Pet package includes the regular $15 pet fee for a single pet as well as a fleece dog blanket you can take home, an Adrift frisbee, Castor & Pollux 100-percent natural beef rawhide chewies, and a bottle of Lab — a bold, red-blend vinho from Portugal reminiscent of a cabernet, the label of which is adorned with an elegant silhouette of its namesake retriever. The Adrift’s sister hotel, the Ashore Hotel (ashorehotel.com) in Seaside, plans to begin offering special packages soon, but for now rest assured that every one of Ashore’s 22 rooms is pet-friendly with a $15 fee. IF LASSIE LIKES LUXURY: Built on pilings 600 feet out into the Columbia River, the Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa (cannerypierhotel.com) aims to make every stay a four-star experience, and this hospitality extends to its four-legged guests. For a $25-per-day fee (plus room cost and tax), upon check-in, your dog will be set up with its own bowl, a bottle of spring water, treats, a plush dog bed, and plenty of disposable bags for you-knowwhat. The Cannery Pier also offers complimentary chauffer service in classic cars to all its guests, dogs not excluded. And who knows? Maybe the driver will roll down the window and let your pooch feel the wind on her face. Note: Many coastal hotels and motels will accommodate a pet, often for an additional fee. Both the Inn at Manzanita (innatmanzanita.com) and the McMenamins Gearhart Hotel (mcmenamins.com/gearharthotel) have recently updated their policies to include pet-friendly rooms.

PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS

F

or many, the call of water slapping sand is more than enough reason to pop a blanket on the backseat and drive to the ocean for a little play and relaxation with man’s best friend. But it’s nice to know that the Columbia-Pacific region offers dogs and their human companions much more than just beach-blanket fun. Most state parks allow dogs on trails with a leash no longer than 6 feet. The Muttzanita Festival in Manzanita happens every September, and last October the Annual Dog Show on the Beach celebrated its 18th year in Cannon Beach, hosted once again by the dog-friendly Surfsand Resort. Up on the peninsula in Washington, Long Beach enacts Doggie Olympic Games every June at the Bolstad Beach Approach. While down on the Columbia River, the Astoria Sunday Market traditionally christens one of its August gatherings as a Dog Day Afternoon.


SHOP EAT BREW AND CHEW: The Wet Dog Café (wetdogcafe.com), the family-friendly arm of the Astoria Brewing Company, knows the way to your dog’s heart is through its stomach. The restaurant offers a Patty for your Pooch, a 1/6-pound all-beef burger patty (cooked well done unless otherwise requested) for only a buck. During peak summer months, the kitchen moves as many as 20 in a given day. Join the party by ordering the Puppy Burgers: two 1/6-pound patties on a bun, fixed just how you’d like. Grab a pint of Bitter Bitch IPA to wash it all down. LOVE THY NEIGHBOR: Being next door to Puppy Love by the Sea, Sweet Basil’s Café (cafesweetbasils.com) in Cannon Beach was bound to receive a lot of four-legged traffic. With courtyard seating, many people choose to sit outdoors with their pets during the warmer months of the year, though chef and owner John Sowa says people will bundle up to dine with their furry friends year-round on Sweet Basil’s covered deck. Specializing in small plates and tapas, what hound could turn down a bison-and-bacon meatball snuck under the table? Sweet Basil’s is happy to provide a bowl of water for thirsty dogs, and the restaurant keeps treats by the register — which are sort of the puppy equivalent of tapas, right? Note: Many restaurants with patios will accommodate a dog when the patio is open for service. Quite a few businesses up and down the coast, from the Long Beach Tavern to the Firehouse Grill in Seaside, leave out water bowls free of charge during the summer months to keep your best friend hydrated.

GROOM

SCHWAG TO MAKE THE TAIL WAG: Cannon Beach’s Dogs Allowed (dogsallowedcannonbeach.com) claims that all of its products are “lab tested and approved,” a charming distinction once you realize the store’s product tester is the owners’ adorable, 8.5-year-old English black Labrador, Hailey. Specializing in repurposed and recycled dog toys and other local and sustainable products, Dogs Allowed also has its own label of dog biscuits. Each package is decorated with photos people have dropped off of their favorite pooches. Dogs Allowed also has its own wine label through Kirkland, Washington’s esteemed NW Cellars, available at The Wine Shack in Cannon Beach, from which they donate 100 percent of the profits to Clatsop Animal Assistance. Note: There are plenty of coastal businesses catering to K9 accoutrements. From Woof’s Dog Boutique in Ocean Shores, Washington, to Beach Puppy Dog Boutique in Seaside and Four Paws on the Beach in Manzanita, there’s enough raingear, Seahawks merchandise, and organic peanut butter chewies around to keep even the most discriminating dachshund pleased.

DIY ON THE FLY: Beach days make for sandy and salt-crusted canines who are in no condition to return to the motel, let alone go out to dinner. Never fear, The Pet Works (thepetworks.net) in downtown Astoria offers a Self Service Dog Wash for $15 for a single dog (the cost drops to $12.50 per dog if you travel with a pack). They provide the shampoo and conditioner, and you provide the mangy mutt and the elbow grease. It’s kind of like stopping by a do-it-yourself carwash except you don’t need to pay with quarters. Note: No one’s going to blame you for outsourcing the job — you’re on vacation after all. Paws by the Sea in Long Beach offers full-service dog grooming as well as doggy day care. Or you can let the groom come to you: Parked in Hammond, Karen Lincoln’s The Dog Wash Waggin’ (thedogwashwaggin.com) is a self-contained, mobile grooming salon willing to travel as far south as Cannon Beach.

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 69


live stay

70 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com


wall in her the 12-foot-wide statement When Alisa Burke painted d with a little d black acrylic paint mixe master bedroom , she use let the paint and gh texture of the wall , water, embraced the rou change white design allows her to drip in places. The black and easily. the colors of the bedding

at home

redefi n i n g CREATIVITY After a marketing career in Southern California, Seaside native Alisa Burke quit her job and moved back home to pursue art full time. Harnessing the power of DIY culture and blogging, this successful artist works from home and finds endless inspiration from the beauty of the Oregon Coast. STORY BY REBECCA SEDLAK • PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

C

reativity runs in Alisa Burke’s veins. This is a woman who, to prepare for her sister-inlaw’s impending visit, didn’t just clean the house; she painted a statement wall in her guest bedroom. A statement wall is just what it sounds like: In place of a boring, empty white wall, Alisa paints a vivid design — usually a line pattern of flowers or mandalas — that adds a special, personal touch to a room. “I’m obsessed with drawing patterns,” the Seaside artist says. “I really love filling big spaces with repetition.” The 40-year-old attributes her urge to paint directly on walls to her 6th birthday party. Her parents were remodeling their house, and as a treat, they let Alisa and her crowd of party friends draw all over a wall. “It’s not scary for me,” she says. “I don’t plan it out, either. Well, I tend to use something that I’m comfortable with; I’ll do a design over and over again in my sketchbook or art journal. Once it’s in my head, I can do it off the top of my head with a brush without drawing it out.” Alisa currently has three statement walls in her Seaside home: a black-onwhite flower mural on her 12-foot-wide bedroom wall; a white-on-black design of Paris in her 4-year-old daughter Lucy’s room; and the white-on-blue wall in the guest room.

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 71


live stay

hide items TION : Store and BASKET COLLEC skets on a e in different ba for everyday us k. clean , organized loo shelf, creating a

GALLERY WALL : Use fav orite photos about a unifying subject. Alisa pick ed the ocean and chose photos with a white, blue, and green color theme.

TRASH: TREASURE FROM ard, guitar, Got an old surf bo Paint and or other big item? form it decorate to trans t. into a work of ar

is an easy ing out your sofa pillows POPS OF COLOR: Switch g room. athe new life into your livin and affordable way to bre

“It’s a fun way to inspire people to look at space differently. You don’t have to spend $600 on fancy wallpaper; you could paint a wall,” she says. “It’s such a cheap way to change a room, too, without having to go buy new furniture. You can do something fun quickly, and people love that. They just think it’s so fun to see the transformation.” By people, Alisa doesn’t just mean family and friends — she’s also including the many readers of her blog, alisaburke.blogspot.com. Almost every day, Alisa writes a blog post that features a do-it-yourself art project, inventive crafts, inspirational travel photos, or a peek into her artistic process. Alisa launched her website 10 years ago, writing blog posts about her art and creative 72 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

projects in the downtime from her day job in marketing at the University of San Diego. Back then, having a day job was vital, but she was constantly juggling creative side businesses. Such gigs included freelance illustrations, art shows, commissioned pieces, holiday ornaments, a book about mixed-media accessories, and teaching at high-end art retreats in Chicago, Phoenix, and L.A. When the Great Recession hit, things changed. Those high-end art retreats dried up. But blogging, coupled with the launch of DIY mainstay and photo-sharing site Pinterest, simply exploded. And Alisa found herself in the right place at the perfect time. “It just spread like wildfire. Something about the market crashing and people not having as

much money — my blog just kind of blew up,” Alisa says. “The blog thing just sort of happened before I knew it. I didn’t have any intention of growing a blog and being a blogger. But I started sharing a lot of DIY projects and inspiration and a lot of techniques for free online, and I think people really liked that.” She also created online classes in lieu of those art retreats, which proved to be smart: With the economic downturn, students wanted cheaper classes, and online classes have staying power, reaching more students over time. After a lot of hard work, it got to the point where her side business was bringing in more money than her day job. So, in June 2009, with hardly a backward glance, Alisa quit and focused on her art — and her blog — full time.


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Alisa’s art business is a collage of several parts. She blogs regularly, works on creative projects with different companies and brands, sells art sketchbooks and art prints, and still teaches those online classes. Today, her website offers a library of about 40 online classes for sale, ranging in topics from sketching, painting, and printmaking to blogging, art business, and more. Each one is filmed in her studio and set up like a live class, with demos, techniques, and projects for students. “My biggest promotion has been really great, innovative ideas, and people keep coming back for that,” she says. “I really want people to think about materials and how simple things can quickly transform something.” Do you know your way around a toolbox? Create your own custom wood-burned side table. Are you crafty and adore jewelry? Try your hand at making colorful clay bangles or yarn-wrapped necklaces. Alisa has produced bell Christmas ornaments from painted flower pots, repurposed old clothes into new ones for her daughter, and made endless iterations of holiday wreaths and painted pumpkins. All of it centers around rethinking how to be creative. “These days, I spend more time showing people how to do things than I do making art,” Alisa says. About 15 years ago, equipped with a bachelor’s degree in painting and printmaking from Portland State University, Alisa had intended to be a fine artist — but that goal has evolved into a completely different career title. “In college, I thought I could only be a gallery artist or go back to school and get my master’s and teach in an academic setting,” Alisa says. “But now after making my own rules, it’s kind of like: I just like being creative. I’m almost just as happy with a glue gun and my sewing machine as I am painting. Back in college, I could never have seen myself saying that; I would have turned my nose up. Now I kind of feel like, ‘Who cares?’ Being creative is creative.” With her brand built on inspiring other people, Alisa has had to think outside the box. “Everything I do in my life is creative. I’m like a

mad scientist with creativity,” she says. And creativity isn’t limited to typical art. For Alisa, inspiration can be found anywhere: on a walk, at a good meal, or while spending time with her husband and daughter. “Photography has come in handy. It’s a nice way to throw in something new and create a conversation about how inspiration doesn’t just look one way; it can be the blue on a gray, Oregon Coast day — the blues and grays and how you can pull those into a color palette,” she says. “I think people get stuck in what’s-the-next-project type of thing. I like to surprise them: There is no project today. It’s all about sand and the prints the tide makes in the sand.”

“I’m almost just as happy with a glue gun and my sewing machine as I am painting. Back in college, I could never have seen myself saying that; I would have turned my nose up. Now I kind of feel like, ‘Who cares?’ Being creative is creative.” This self-forged career made it possible for Alisa and her husband, Andy Gunthardt, to eventually both work at home; Andy left his structural engineering job of 15-hour days to surf, help raise their daughter, and serve as Alisa’s business manager. It also allowed the couple to leave the crowded, stress-filled Southern California

lifestyle behind and, in June 2012, relocate back to Alisa’s roots in Seaside. “We packed up our stuff, rented out our house, and hit the road with our 6-month-old baby and moved here. We kind of started life completely over with my business being at the foundation of it all,” Alisa says. “I left always wanting to come back. I don’t think I was meant for California. For me, coming home, it was a comfort. We were both so ready to leave California; we were just at a place in our lives where we wanted simplicity.” In Seaside, the young family bought and moved into Alisa’s grandmother’s house, which was built in the 1980s. “There’s nothing cute or charming about it on the outside,” she says. “Slowly we’ve been making it our style, which is pretty funky. Our style is — I mean, it probably looks trendy, but it’s just what feels right for us.” Since Alisa works from home, her Seaside house is literally homebase. It doubles as a video set, a photography studio, a place to showcase her work, to educate Lucy, and to live. Alisa and Andy have considered renovating the house (redoing the bathroom is definitely on the to-do list), but with a booming online business and a young daughter to raise, scheduling such an undertaking has proven difficult. “A bathroom renovation would just stop everything,” Alisa says. “We haven’t really had the time to do crazy giant renovations, so we’ve had to pick projects that can maybe make a real big impact for the time being until we have the time and the space in our schedule to actually gut the bathrooms or maybe blow out a wall in the bedroom.” For now, they’ve settled for painting those statement walls as a quick way to change things up. Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 73


live stay

Hear why locals call our coast home

MY COAST INTERVIEWS & PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

CARMEN DUNNINGTON Employee, Aspirin Shop • Seaside, Oregon I’ll have lived here five years in March. I used to vacation here, and I just considered it a second home. I don’t swim, I don’t surf, but I love being close to the ocean. I decided I was just going to move here and do a working retirement. Working at the Aspirin Shop, I swear, it’s a new person every day. You meet people from all over the world. My last customer was from Texas.

RUSTY HOUSE Owner, Cold Water Surf and Skate • Astoria, Oregon My wife and I have lived here 11 years now; we moved here in 2005 from St. Louis. I was changing jobs; got an offer from Schneider Electric, which included a relocation to the Portland area. My wife came out to do some searching; she wasn’t terribly interested in the Portland area. Since I traveled anyway, she asked, “Hey, can we live on the coast?” I said, “Sure.” I grew up on the coast; she grew up between San Diego and Anchorage, Alaska, which are both coastal towns. We looked from Newport to Astoria, and we liked here best. It’s the combination of a blue-collar town and a place to work and live. We made that choice and never regretted it.

JACOB SHAWAN Manager, Schwietert’s Cones & Candy in Cannon Beach • Gearhart, Oregon I’ve lived on the coast pretty much my entire life. I was born all the way down the Oregon Coast in Brookings. It’s somewhere I’ve always brought deep into my heart. I’ve always been partial to the climate and the temperature and the humidity. I go to Portland in the summer, and it’s so hot and dry, and it’s a little too crowded for me. I feel like the coast is a little getaway for everyone.

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TOM HALLMAN Columnist at The Oregonian • Ocean Park, Washington I live full time in Portland, but I have a little beach cabin in Ocean Park. What I like about the coast is the sense of community. You typically don’t get community in a city. Even in my neighborhood where I’ve lived for 30 years I don’t know that many people. But when I’m in Ocean Park, I’m immediately in the community in big and small ways: I’m a member of the Eagles, I go to Doc’s Tavern, to the bookstore, little restaurants where you know the proprietor making the soup. As soon as I cross that bridge from Astoria to the Long Beach Peninsula, my life changes. All the stress and realities of the world vanish. There’s something spiritual about living on the coast — even if it’s only for a weekend. It reminds you how insignificant you are. In a city you feel like you can control things; at the coast, you don’t. It’s good to feel small and be reminded of our spot in nature. Oftentimes, I’ll sit at night, and I’ll tell somebody there is someone in the Midwest who has never been to the coast, and here I am. I’m at the edge of the United states. I’m at the ocean. It’s humbling, it’s powerful, and it’s beautiful.

CHELSEA JOHNSEN Owner, Doe and Arrow • Astoria, Oregon I’ve always been a water child, so I think I’ve always wanted to live on the coast for that reason. I think there are a lot of things water symbolizes within all of us, and I soak that in, no pun intended. I think it’s very calming and puts things in perspective. I grew up in El Cajon, California, which is very hot and dry. Then I came up to Oregon because I knew I wanted seasons and weather and trees, and once I came to Astoria I realized I could have all of it in one place. I love the architecture, I love how close it is to the river, I love the bridges, everything. The environment fits me perfectly.

VICKIE ABRAHAMSON Gardener • Gearhart, Oregon The idea of being on the edge of the continent and the wildness of the weather and the beauty, that’s what really brought me and my husband here, close to 25 years ago. The memory that always comes to mind when I’m not here is how thrilling it is to be on the coast in a gigantic storm and feel like the roof is going to blow off. I live half the year in an urban environment in Minneapolis, right downtown on the Mississippi River, and coming to Gearhart is like a fantasy: It’s smalltown U.S.A. It’s all kinds of community: being able to take my dog, Rome, down to pick up my mail, and then the postmistress has dog treats for him. You don’t get that in Minneapolis; you can’t even take your dog into the post office. xxxxxx

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STORY BY SUSAN G. HAUSER • PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX


Long before Michael Powell went into the book business, he was a commercial salmon fisherman on the Columbia River. Many a fishing season passed before his own enterprise grew into one of the largest new and used bookstores in the world and, incidentally, a huge tourist attraction in Portland. Now, with his daughter, Emily, in charge of Powell’s Books, Powell has more time to reminisce about the happy days spent on his grandfather’s boat and to talk of his personal efforts to preserve the history of fishing and canning along the Columbia. “My grandfather’s father was the first generation of fishermen in the family,” says Powell. The Reed family (his mother’s side) had migrated from Nebraska to Astoria in the early 1880s and several years later moved up the river to what was later called Reed Island. Their farm there was lost in the Great Flood of 1894, and the Reeds settled in nearby Corbett. From age 14, Powell spent seven summers working on the gillnetter his grandfather moored there, from high school through college. He got excused from school during fall Chinook season and, he recalls, “I would spend my Christmas vacation, spring vacation, and weekends making nets.” As the years passed, large-scale commercial salmon fishing on the Columbia became a fading memory for Powell and, sadly, for many others. But before the river scenes of his youth were lost forever, Powell commissioned a photographer to record the daily activities of Astoria fishermen. The photos were shown at the Columbia River Maritime Museum and the Oregon History Center and now grace the walls of the Bumble Bee Cannery Museum on Astoria’s Pier 39. Powell also funded an annual $3,000 fellowship to support original research on Columbia Basin topics. Today there are no more than about 175 active commercial fishermen on the Columbia River, according to Steve Fick, owner of Astoria’s Fishhawk Fisheries. In spite of the reduced size of the industry, especially compared to the glory days of the late 1800s when Astoria was considered the salmon fishing and canning capitol of the world, the appeal of Astoria as a picturesque fishing town has not diminished. “It’s a reason why tourists come here,” says Fick. To give visitors a feel for how Astoria used to be — when the river’s shores were lined with dozens of fish canneries and millions of huge salmon were being caught yearly in nets, fish wheels, and fish traps — Fick suggests doing what he does every morning with his dog: Walk the length of Astoria’s Riverwalk (or ride the 3-mile trolley line for $1) just to see what remains from those good old days. Jutting up from the water is a multitude of pilings easily seen from the shore for mile after mile.

MICHAEL POWELL


“There were canneries on all those pilings,” says Shirley Tinner, one of the many Astorians who spent her high school summers working in a fish cannery. Tinner worked at the Van Camp cannery during the summers of 1952 and 1953, when already the main product had switched from salmon to tuna. Her job was to pack the cans into boxes for shipping. A good starting point for learning more about Astoria’s fishing history is the world-class Columbia River Maritime Museum. Extensive exhibits trace the period between the opening of the city’s first commercial fish cannery in 1874 to the closing in 1980 of the final holdout, Bumble Bee Seafoods. A recent addition to the museum is the Barbey Maritime Center for Research & Industry, where classes and workshops are held to preserve traditional boat building and other maritime skills. Bumble Bee’s frozen fish and processing plant, in a building on Pier 39 that dates from 1875, is now the home of another, smaller museum. Built on pilings 120 feet from shore, the plant had foot-thick walls and heavy doors to insulate the cannery’s freezer facility. “These rooms were just stacked to the roof with frozen tuna,” says Peter Marsh, curator of the Bumble Bee Cannery Museum. Marsh created exhibits and information displays that tell how salmon and tuna were caught on the Columbia River and how they were canned. Among the exhibits are antique canning equipment and three wooden gillnetters, the wide-beamed fishing sailboats that were originally built by Scandinavian immigrants to replicate the boats they used in their native Finland, Norway, and Sweden. Admission is free, and after touring the museum, says Marsh, most visitors stop at the adjoining Coffee Girl, a cafe with a peerless view of river traffic, named to honor those who provided refreshment to cannery workers. Every August since 2004, during the Astoria Regatta, Marsh and Pier 39’s owner, Floyd Holcom, have hosted a reunion of people who worked in Astoria’s canneries. One wall just outside the museum is covered with signatures of those who attended the first reunion. Donna Gustavson is one who wrote her name on the wall. She remembers that her summer job was considered part of the war effort, and when she graduated from Astoria High School in 1945, she had earned enough money to attend college. Wearing a rubber apron with her hair tucked under a white bandana, she worked at the Columbia River Packers Association cannery. She stood across a table from a Chinese man, who would deftly butcher the salmon before passing it on to her for cleaning. 78 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

Cannery workers prepping tuna for packing. — COURTESY OF COLUMBIA RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM

Exhibits at the Bumble Bee Cannery Museum tell how salmon and tuna were caught and canned in Astoria.

Columbia River Packers Association (CRPA) cannery workers at the Hanthorn Cannery on Pier 39 with an octopus. — COURTESY OF COLUMBIA RIVER MARITIME MUSEUM

Cans of Thunderbird Brand salmon are on display at the Bumble Bee Cannery Museum on Astoria’s Pier 39.


Sitting on pilings 50 yards out into the river and visible from the Astoria Riverwalk, "Big Red," the Union Fishermen's Cooperative Packing Co.'s net loft, was built in 1897 and used by the fishing and marine industry for 90 years. It primarily served as a transfer station for fish and a drying structure for wet nets. Unlike the cooperative's cannery and machine shop, which have been repurposed into the Cannery Pier Hotel and Bridgewater Bistro, Big Red has not undergone historical restoration. Battered by storms and slowly deteriorating, the striking building is one of the last of its kind on the West Coast and reflects the heritage of Astoria's working waterfront.

A good starting point for learning more about Astoria’s fishing history is the world-class Columbia River Maritime Museum. Extensive exhibits trace the period between the opening of the city’s first commercial fish cannery in 1874 to the closing in 1980 of the final holdout, Bumble Bee Seafoods.

The Ocean Beaut, a modern trawler that calls Astoria its home port, still fishes year round.

“They were huge salmon, 40 to 50 pounds or bigger,” she recalls. “We cut the backbone, got the blood out, and cleaned the inside.” Joe Bakkenson, who is the former owner of Barbey Cannery and the Union Fishermen’s Cooperative Packing Co., remembers when the latter business occupied the pilings upon which the luxurious Cannery Pier Hotel now sits, and when the popular Bridgewater Bistro, also perched on pilings, was the company’s machine shop and boat repair shop for gillnetters. Other structures from the city’s past have been similarly refashioned. Andrew Bornstein of Bornstein Seafoods was happy to see a former fish plant owned by his family’s company converted into Buoy Beer Co. in 2014. “You can sit where we used to offload fish and have a beer,” says Bornstein. “We preserved some of the old fish ladders and old artifacts, and we put in a glass floor so you can see the sea lions underneath.” Although most of the poets who perform at Astoria’s FisherPoets Gathering (held every February) hail from Alaska, visitors who attend the poetry readings will come away with a better understanding of the fisherman’s life. Even Michael Powell, who admittedly is no poet, remarked that any poem he wrote would have tried to capture the sounds of fishing on the Columbia River. These are the sounds that have nestled in his memory and gently return to his senses even when he’s on dry land, standing among the shelves of a vast bookstore. “Because there were some distinctive sounds,” says Powell, “as you laid the net out and you brought the fish in, and the motor and the water... ” Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 79


HOMEGROWN FLAVOR STORY BY ANDREW TONRY PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX & ANDREW TONRY

WHEN IT CAME TO THEIR DREAMS OF FARMING ON THE COAST, THESE SPIRITED LOCAL FARMERS IGNORED THE CYNICS AND FOUND THEIR NICHE IN THE FARM-TO-TABLE MOVEMENT. Teresa Retzlaff was looking for something different. “My husband and I were working a series of burnout jobs in the Bay Area,” says Retzlaff, “not really making ends meet, and not really liking living in that intense treadmill. “I wanted to do something that had more meaning to me,” she says. “I wanted to have the kind of work that I could be outside. I’ve always loved growing things. I’ve been a gardener most of my adult life.” Such feelings nudged Retzlaff and her husband to the North Coast, where they hoped to begin anew as farmers. It was 2003. “When we first moved here,” says Retzlaff, “one of the first things people said to me was: ‘You can’t farm here.’ “It didn’t make sense to me because I would look at people’s gardens and see them flourishing,” Retzlaff remembers. She wondered about the hurdles. Were they social? Economic? Regardless, the naysaying was prevalent: “You can’t farm on the coast,” she was told. “There are no farms on the coast.” Well, there was one. >>



Jeff Trenary began farming in Seaside as the 1970s were coming to a close. After growing up around and working on family farms in the Willamette Valley, time spent abroad crystallized the then 29-year-old’s vision: Farming would be the life for him. “I traveled around Europe a lot, and that made me decide I could do what I’m doing,” Trenary says. “In Europe a lot of the farms are smaller than you see in America.” Subsequently he realized that a small, non-industrial-sized farm could be sustained by direct, local purchases. “I came back, and I was gung ho.” But Trenary had no intention of breaking ground in the Willamette Valley, where the vast majority of Oregon’s commercial produce is grown. His heart tugged him to the North Coast. “I love it here,” Trenary says. “It’s really beautiful. I also surf, and Seaside has some of the best surfing in the entire world. I wanted to be where my roots were. And farmland was still relatively inexpensive back then.” Of adapting crops to the chillier, wetter, and highly unpredictable coastal climate, Trenary “just assumed it was doable.” He began with a

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12-horsepower rototiller walking tractor on a rented, 30-acre plot. It was the first time the land had ever been cultivated. “I didn’t know anything,” Trenary says with a smile. “I really didn’t know what I was biting off. “Everybody thought that it was just too wet and too cold over here,” he adds. “Which it was.” But through determination, trial, and error, Trenary figured out what worked and what didn’t. “I realized you can’t grow tomatoes outside here and make a profit,” he says. Such “highprofit” crops need more dry heat. Potatoes, on the other hand, do really well. So do leafy greens like lettuce, kale, spinach, and arugula. After a few years, Trenary’s modifications to his rented plot began enticing the property’s owner. Eventually she decided to take it back. In 1986, he started anew, buying a large chunk of land along the Nehalem River, about five miles east of Nehalem. He also started a small nursery, growing flowers. With his then-wife, he purchased a retail store in Tillamook County. They began selling produce and flowers from the nursery.

“There was nothing else like that where we were, so our business took off really well,” he says. At the time, there were few other outlets — farmers markets had yet to emerge in the region, and Trenary’s farm was not large enough to be able to compete against the low prices of monocrop farmers in the valley. Then Trenary and his wife separated. She got the store, and he kept the farm. “Once I decided I was gonna do this, I decided nothing was gonna stop me,” he says. “I’ve had some real hardships and didn’t know how I was gonna make it, but I wasn’t gonna quit.” The vow was as much of idealism as financial necessity. “It’s a very political, social thing,” he adds. “When I was just out of high school in the late ’60s and the early ’70s I became a vegetarian for about 10 years. I was into macrobiotics.” He learned about organic practices, sustainability, and became acutely aware of the differences in taste and nutrition between genetically modified and organic crops. “California had organic farmers maybe 15 years before we had it here,” Trenary says. In Oregon, however, he was a pioneer.


TRENARY’S PRODUCE CAN BE FOUND IN A NUMBER OF NORTH COAST EATERIES, INCLUDING FORT GEORGE BREWERY AND BLUE SCORCHER BAKERY & CAFE. In the early ’90s the public was largely unaware. But a chef in Portland, Greg Higgins, proved ahead of his time. “Greg is kind of the grandfather of Oregon’s farmer-tochef connection,” says Trenary. “He was a huge promoter of it. At first I was bringing him all kinds of leafy greens. Then later I learned how to grow warm weather crops like peppers, tomatoes.” Sensing opportunity, Trenary tried to replicate the farmer-to-chef relationship. “I wouldn’t even call them,” Trenary says of his pitches to the restaurants. “I’d just load my truck up and go to Portland. They’d say, ‘What’ve you got?’ And I’d take ’em out to my truck.” Trenary sold to restaurants on the coast as well. John Newman, proprietor of Newman’s 988 in Cannon Beach, was an early adopter. At the time he was the head chef at The Stephanie Inn. Today, Trenary’s produce can be found in a number of North Coast eateries, including Fort George Brewery and the Blue Scorcher Bakery & Cafe in Astoria, The Wayfarer Restaurant & Lounge and Cannon Beach Cafe in Cannon Beach, Blackbird and Bread & Ocean Bakery in Manzanita, and more. As such, Kingfisher Farm is now almost wholly devoted to growing produce. The flowers are long gone. In their place, long straight rows of greens rustle in the wind. Carrot tops sprout through the soil, across from an acre of potatoes. Trenary also has a cluster of long greenhouses, covered with tarps, where he grows tomatoes, peppers, and the like. He keeps some of them going year-round. Pulling back the doors to peek inside, a burst of hot, humid air rushes out, some 20 degrees warmer than the brisk breeze outside. The majority of the pasture, though, is reserved for greens. “My salad mix alone has eight crops in it,” Trenary says. “Five different kinds of lettuce: endive, frisee, radicchio, arugula, and sometimes we put spinach in there too.” During the height of the summer season, Kingfisher Farm produces some 80 to 100 pounds of the salad mix per week, most of it going to chefs. “When I got involved with restaurants,” Trenary says, “it all started to work out.”

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Getting produce into restaurant kitchens is every bit as important as selling in retail — maybe more so. Some people cook and some don’t, but few understand, showcase, and trumpet quality as do proper chefs. And when it comes to underscoring the value of fresh, locally farmed food, taste is paramount. “To me, the way you shift people to eating a lot of fresh food is that it tastes amazing,” says Teresa Retzlaff. “If it tastes like crap, even if it’s really good for you, why would you eat it? “One of the things that’s advantageous in buying food from local farmers is that food was likely picked that morning,” Retzlaff adds. “Fruits like tomatoes or strawberries, when they’re allowed to ripen on the vine, the sugars develop; the flavors develop. That’s what we’re going for. It’s that flavor.” Fortuitously, fresh taste and health go hand-in-hand. “When you harvest a fruit or vegetable, it immediately begins to deteriorate,” Retzlaff says. “So the shortest time, the more nutrients are present.”

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The growth of Retzlaff’s own farm, 46 North, which is located just south of Astoria in Olney, mirrors the growth of regional farmers markets. From her newly purchased plot, Retzlaff began selling flowers and plant starts at the Astoria Sunday Market in the early 2000s. At the time, the market trafficked as much in produce as it did in crafts. “There was tremendous response,” Retzlaff says. “In addition to local food, a lot of people wanted to grow it. People wanted organic stuff.” She sold starts for an array of leafy greens, broccoli, peas, and more. Today she sells flowers, produce, and plant starts at Astoria’s Thursday River People Farmers Market. “People always want tomato starts,” Retzlaff says, “even though it’s a heartbreaker out here. It’s just too cool, too wet. Tomatoes like a long, warm, dry growing season. “A lot of people aren’t comfortable starting plants from seed,” she adds. “So they want plant starts, and they really want a source for that. It’s still a big part of our

business. I love that relationship with people when you help them grow food for themselves. “Most people are never going to be selfsufficient in their gardens,” Retzlaff continues. “But it develops an appreciation for how good fresh food tastes. And it also develops an appreciation for how hard it is to do.” For Retzlaff, even getting the chance to discover the difficulty of farming on the North Coast was a struggle. “We could not get a loan as a farm,” she says. “It’s kind of an infamous story that we essentially had to lie to our lender. They were really concerned that we had a history of farming. We basically did it as a home loan.” And while getting loans to start farms is difficult anywhere, it’s especially twisted by the increased value of land near the coastline. “Even though our property is zoned for agriculture and forestry, it was not priced to be a farm,” Retzlaff says. “It was marketed to be your luxury rural residence only 10 minutes from a latte.”


At Starvation Alley Farms on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula, Jessika Tantisook and Jared Oakes faced a different challenge when they began running the cranberry farm in 2010. Cranberries are one of the few crops native to the coastal climate. But growing them organically for profit was heretofore wholly unheard of. Tantisook began asking “Why not?” She called the nearby Washington State University Long Beach Research and Extension Unit, a satellite center specializing in cranberries. “They told us we couldn’t do it,” Tantisook says. “Point blank. Not maybe. Like: ‘You can’t do it. Not possible.’” Tantisook says she persisted with different approaches and pitches but was continually stonewalled. Eventually, Starvation Alley simply went for it. “The first two years we saw very significant decreases in our production,” Tantisook says of going organic. “We lost about 70 percent from before. Similar to a person, if you’ve been on steroids and you take your body off of that, in general there will be an adaptation period.” After the initial losses, Starvation Alley has been rebounding. “In the past three years we’ve seen increases in production,” Tantisook says. Still, the cranberry farm is producing less than half of what it did before going organic. Tantisook acknowledges that they may never approach the levels of genetically modified crops. But the organic cranberries they’re growing, she says, are far superior. “Our cranberries are really dark,” Tantisook says. “They have rich, purple juice and a higher concentration of pectin. The reason those things are is because the growing season is milder and longer. It’s like wine grapes: What’s the terroir?” And like grapes, Starvation Alley’s cranberries go to make a drinkable product. The majority of their fruit — as well as some bought from neighboring farms who’ve adopted organic practices — go into a raw juice. Undiluted, the flavor is bitingly tart, sour. In most applications it acts as a concentrate. And though raw cranberry juice has numerous health benefits, Tantisook and company have found their juice also makes a great mixer. “One of the markets we’re a part of is the craft cocktail industry,” Tantisook says. “We’re probably in close to 100 bars in Northwest.” (Locally, that includes Bridgewater Bistro and Astoria Coffeehouse & Bistro in Astoria, as well as Pickled Fish Restaurant in Long Beach and Nancy & Jimella’s Seafood Cafe in Ocean Park.)

“ORGANIC FARMING IS REALLY IMPORTANT. GROWING THINGS IN A WAY THAT’S GOOD FOR PEOPLE AND THE ENVIRONMENT IS REALLY IMPORTANT TO US.”

And while thrilled the juice company is taking off, Starvation Alley’s stated mission goes beyond business. “Organic farming is really important,” says Tantisook. “Growing things in a way that’s good for people and the environment is really important to us.” As such, Starvation Alley’s owners are sharing what they’ve learned with other cranberry farmers in the area, that going organic is indeed an option. Says Tantisook: “I’m pretty sure if you call the WSU cranberry office now they’re not going to say that growing organic cranberries is impossible.” Some three decades after Jeff Trenary began commercially farming on the North Coast, the burgeoning industry remains as much driven by social and political values as by dreams of profitability. But the movement

hardly remains static. The word “organic” wasn’t in the common lexicon when Trenary broke ground. Indeed, the growth has been multi-faceted: from the increasing numbers of small farms like 46 North and Starvation Alley, to the spread of farmers markets (during summer there is one almost every day of the week in the Columbia Pacific) and the continued adoption of locally sourced products in restaurants. Also growing are a slate of state and educational programs, both aimed at supporting small farms and increasing public access and awareness. “The thing that makes me feel really optimistic is that there are so many more resources available in 2015 than there ever were in 2003 when we started,” says Retzlaff. “I think right now demand is greater than supply on the North Coast,” she adds. “There’s opportunity here. And challenges.”

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Chinook nation Native peoples called these shores home for generations. Their descendants continue to keep that heritage alive today.

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STORY BY MATT WINTERS • PHOTOS BY DAMIAN MULINIX

ach December’s breath-robbing riot of storms at the mouth of the Columbia River always catches in my throat like a salmon bone, making me think of what it must have been like a thousand years ago, when no white man even imagined this coast where people had already been living for hundreds of generations. It is inspiring, scary, and profoundly humbling. A visit to the seaside and river towns around the Columbia also is a journey to the villages of one of North America’s most successful civilizations. Access to water and other attributes that appeal to modern homeowners also inspired native people to select the same sites. If Native Americans had built from marble instead of cedar, tourists would get a truer sense of the scope and grandeur of history on this shore of spirits. In the Pacific Northwest where “lost” civilizations didn’t have much metal, objects were mostly made of wood. The powerful Clatsop and Chinook tribes — plus

others whose names are barely remembered, such as the Kilooklaniuck — made household and ceremonial objects from perishable cedar and other woods. Judging by rare surviving examples collected by early white explorers, these tribes more than made up for in artistry what they lacked in precious metals. Entire houses were sculptures of a kind, now melted away by time. Visiting the lower Columbia in the winter of 1846-47, artist Paul Kane provided some of what little we know of the twilight of the mighty Chinook empire. He described village houses constructed in pits dug three feet into dry ground, about 20 feet square. “Round the sides, square cedar boards are sunk and fastened together with cords and twisted roots, rising about four feet above the outer level.” He made a painting on paper of the interior of a riverside ceremonial lodge. “It was here,” according to modern authors Diane Eaton and Sheila Urbanek, “that the winter ‘spirit singing’ took place and supernatural powers were sought: power for curing, for

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Think of the stories, songs, and artworks that must have been spun in those snug, smoky houses over the endless months and centuries of incessant rain; the baby-making and gossip and back-scratching. An uncountable lost fortune of human experience echoes across these broad waters. hunting, for canoe making. Those who were successful in the quest emerged from behind the dance screen into the firelight to the reverberation of drumming and the rattling of deer hooves. In the flickering firelight, in songs, and in dances, they gave proof of the spiritual powers invested in them.” Surviving to this day is a simple mat woven from cattails, a specialty of the Clatsop, used to weatherproof the roofs and walls of plank houses. Obviously highly perishable in our harsh weather, this mat is nevertheless executed with outstanding verve, interweaving vertical strips of maidenhair fern to

create an undulating pattern. Visit the fantastic Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum in Ilwaco to see the time-torn prow of a Chinook canoe. Pause for a moment to study this pragmatic sculpture, allowing your mind to wander back to a time when it was dashed with salt spray while helping speed ancient people toward a home where virtually every board and bowl were works of art.


Members of the Chinook Indian Nation are proud of their maritime traditions and leadership role in making the Columbia River estuary a center for Pacific Rim international trade. Even before European and American ships began exploring this coast in the 18th century, the Chinook people were renowned as one of the wealthiest and most sophisticated cultures in the Pacific Northwest. Modern Chinook keep these traditions alive by conducting symbolic trade missions in hard-carved western red cedar canoes on the Columbia River.

All this speaks of a cultural sophistication beyond our imagination. Think of the stories, songs, and artworks that must have been spun in those snug, smoky houses over the endless months and centuries of incessant rain; the baby-making and gossip and backscratching. An uncountable lost fortune of human experience echoes across these broad waters. “Once there was a people so

wealthy, plump, and sleek that they drank sea lion oil straight and didn’t have to look for food all winter long,” author Rick Rubin wrote. “They danced and sang and recited stories instead. These people’s upriver neighbors bent under 90pound packs. These people just carried their big boat down to their river, piled in several tons of trade goods — cranberry preserves, smoked salmon, dried clams, six or

seven kinds of vegetables, fur robes, and arrow-proof battle armor — and paddled a hundred miles or so up the river to trade.” They were the mightiest tribe in the Columbia River Basin. Kane and other visitors in the early 19th century wrote, for instance, of the Chinook Chief Casanov, who could lead 1,000 men into battle in 1829 and ruled by terror through the agency of an assassin known as his

scoocoom, a kind of evil genie. This way of life was doomed by the arrival of settlers, traders, and the germs endemic in the European population. In the case of the mighty Casanov, Kane wrote, “His own immediate family, consisting of 10 wives, four children, and 18 slaves, were reduced in one year to one wife, one child, and two slaves.” His only remaining son later died of tuberculosis.

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 87


The Chinook endure Today, the Chinook Indian Nation, with its headquarters in Bay Center on the eastern shore of Willapa Bay, is engaged in a concerted effort to win White House support for restoration of its official status as a federally recognized tribe. Nineteenth century plagues, a pattern of friendly integration with white culture, and deliberate government policies aimed at denying them their presence around the strategically important mouth of the Columbia all played a role in making the modern Chinook less visible today than many other less consequential tribes. The Chinook and Clatsop gained new momentum in the years leading up to the 200506 bicentennial of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. Lower Columbia River Indians were crucial to the expedition’s survival during their difficult winter on this coast, when supplies and spirits were at low ebb. On Nov. 11, 1805, William Clark wrote five “Indians came down in a canoe, the wind verry high from the S.W. with most tremendious waves brakeing with great violence against the Shores, rain falling in torrents ... we purchased of the Indians 13 red charr which we found to be an excellent fish we have ... the Indians left us and Crossed the river which is about 5 miles wide through the highest Sees I ever Saw a Small vestle ride, their Canoe is Small, maney times they were out of Sight before the were 2 miles off. Certain it is they are the best canoe navigators I ever Saw.” As bicentennial plans moved forward, the Indian role gained greater prominence, with acclaimed designer Maya Lin overseeing installation of a key element of The Confluence Project in Cape Disappointment State Park. The project honors Native American life here on the western edge of North America. At about the same time, an archaeological dig at the site of Lewis and Clark’s pivotal Station Camp 88 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

discovered Indian remains in a collapsed plank house, a finding that eventually led to the site being dedicated as a place of strong significance for both the expedition and the Chinook people. It now is a unit of Lewis and Clark National Historical Park.

is the earliest known archaeological site at the mouth of the Columbia River containing extensive information on the fur-trade era networks of interaction between Chinooks, other American Indians, and British and American traders.”

Chinook Tribal Chairman Tony Johnson, right, leads drummers greeting the arrival of a canoe at Chinook Point in Fort Columbia State Park in Washington. Part of the tribe’s annual First Salmon Ceremony in late June, the day-long event expresses thanks to the salmon for migrating back to the Columbia River.

“Happy” isn’t a term most would have used at the time to describe the discoveries of Chinook ruins, artifacts, and bones. For surviving Chinook descendants, it was another painful reminder of loss and a century of disrespect. But from an archaeological-dig standpoint, it was golden. Scientists including Douglas Wilson of Portland State University and Astoria-based Brian F. Harrison found something that could eventually deserve World Heritage Site designation as a prime meeting place of cultures, one of the original Pacific Rim free-trade zones. “The Chinook Middle Village (qíqayaqilxam) site and its other components — Lewis & Clark’s Station Camp and the salmon cannery town of McGowan — are iconic of the change affected by the fur trade and the inevitable march of the Pacific Northwest into modernity,” according to a report on the dig. “The site is on the cusp of history in the Pacific Northwest. It reflects a time when the Chinook at the mouth of the Columbia River were at the zenith of their power ... The site

The decade since the bicentennial has included many events for the Chinook, with some of the most significant consisting of continuation of cultural touchstones that have now survived countless generations. The tribe is again increasingly reestablishing its maritime heritage. In July 2016, a tribal delegation will once again paddle down the Columbia, out to sea, and north to visit the tribes of the Salish Sea. On June 17, the tribe conducts its First Salmon Ceremony at Fort Columbia State Park — though the ceremony is limited to tribe members and invited guests, photos of arriving canoes can be taken from the surrounding shoreline. Living Chinooks are actively engaged in efforts to strengthen and practice the tribe’s language and artistic traditions. Tribal Chairman Tony Johnson is one notable leader of this effort. Chinook jargon, a simplified version of the formal and highly complex Chinook language, survived as a practical trading language on the Northwest coast well into the 20th century.


Chinook facts

The first person to teach English in Japan, in 1847 and 1848, was Chinook tribal member Ranald MacDonald. Grandson of famous Chinook Chief Comcomly and son of Hudson’s Bay Company fur trader Archibald McDonald, he is remembered in modern Japan as a notable historical figure.

The Chinook people traditionally rely on cedar, spruce, and other natural woods and fibers for everything from cooking utensils to art objects. Cedar bark hats serve both to keep the rain off and as a badge of rank within the tribe.

Comcomly, a leader of the Chinook when Lewis and Clark visited in the winter of 1805-06, helped maintain friendly relations between the tribe and the region’s first wave of white settlers in the first decades of the 19th century. His skull was stolen from his grave in 1835, displayed in Portsmouth, England for more than a century and stored at the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C. from 1956 to 1972, before finally being restored to the tribe. Traditional Chinooks bound the soft skulls of their infants, resulting in a permanently elongated shape in adulthood. The modern Chinook Indian Nation has about 2,700 members. They live worldwide but remain concentrated in the southwest corner of Washington state and in Clatsop County, Oregon. In 2016, the tribe’s headquarters is in Bay Center, Washington, on the eastern shore of Willapa Bay. Tony Johnson is tribal chairman. Pacific County Sheriff Scott Johnson is another notable living member of the tribe. The Chinook Indian Nation includes many descendants of the Clatsop Tribe in Oregon. However, a separate entity, Clatsop-Nehalem Confederated Tribes, is based in Seaside. Both the Chinook Indian Nation and the Clatsop-Nehalem Confederated Tribes are attempting to obtain official federal legal status. The correct pronunciation of “Chinook” is chin-ook, like the part of your face; not shin-ook, like the part of your leg. Some tribal members include a “t” sound: Tchinn-ook.

It still provides a comparatively easy point of entry for those wishing to explore Chinook linguistics. (One amusing note for tourists who bring quarreling children here via long car rides: The Chinook jargon word for “Brother” is “Ow”!) It’s tempting to believe that if everyone who lives here woke up one soggy morning speaking Chinook, our whole world would change forever. What we speak imprints itself on the reality we perceive. The Chinook people and their language were born of this place that positively churns and boils with its own character. Back in the long age of the Clatsop and Chinook, every mountain, headland, and creek was wrapped in tragedy and humor, demons and gods. Stories grew like moss on every geographical feature. Chinook words, philosophy, culture, and artworks may offer the best understanding of this utterly unique kingdom of water and mystery. There is a vast, immortal timelessness about the waters of the Columbia estuary, a feeling that the next bend may reveal a Chinook trading party racing across storm-tossed waters in cedar canoes. Go down to the river’s edge or to the ocean’s racing tide line. Watch the horizon. Imagine legends of the past racing toward a bright future for the Chinook people here in their lost paradise on the Columbia.

“Chinook” and “king” are names for the largest and most famous species of Columbia River salmon (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha). They were a mainstay in the diet of Chinookan people in the Columbia River watershed. The name “chinook” is also applied to a warm wind from the ocean that melts away inland snow, and to large U.S. Army helicopters first deployed in 1962.

Chinook places The Chinook people have lived at the mouth of the Columbia for thousands of years. The names they gave things still reverberate, yet we have scant knowledge of their language, the tribe having been driven to the brink of extinction almost before anyone was paying attention. Writing in 1863, linguist George Gibbs made a systematic effort to capture these shards of language. Even then, the complexities of Chinook pronunciation were known to only a few. Here are a few of the original names of places we love — words of power, of creation: A-wak´atl Astoria Su-kum-its´i-ak Tongue Point Ka-is´ Cape Disappointment Ti´chuts Long Beach Peninsula

No-wétl-kai-ils Point Ellice Nos-to-ils Chinook Point Nak-i-kláu-a-nak Youngs River Wi´mahl Columbia River

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DEAD MEN TELL TALES

TALKING TOMBSTONES BREATHES LIFE INTO THE HISTORY OF OREGON AND THE DEAD OF CLATSOP COUNTY STORY BY ERICK BENGEL • PHOTOS BY JOSHUA BESSEX

O

ne hundred and fifteen years after his death, Charles McGuire has risen from the grave. On a gray and gusty Sunday morning, the honorable judge and gentleman’s scoundrel pounds his gavel on a stump near his headstone in Warrenton’s Clatsop Plains Pioneer Cemetery, then plunges into his life story before a crowd come to see the local legend in the flesh. The way McGuire tells it, he was the proverbial pillar of the community — a family man who founded hotels and businesses in Astoria and Warrenton and, along the way, became a Clatsop

County Commissioner and Astoria City Councilor. Oh sure, he had his unsavory side. McGuire’s road to riches involved marrying twice into the same wealthy family. His second wife accused him of having inappropriate relations with their maid and patronizing the houses of ill repute on Astor Street. And he helped get the mayor of Astoria ousted from office for alleged “dirty dealings” that may never have happened. But: “I want to remind you that the good people of Clatsop County saw fit to elect me Clatsop County judge in 1890 at the age of 61. And I remained in that position for 11 years until my death in 1901,” he boasted to a round of applause. OK, so maybe it wasn’t McGuire

himself speaking, but it was the next best thing: David Reid, an Astoria resident, dressed in a suit jacket with a bow tie and evoking a 19th century dignitary for “Talking Tombstones XII: A Serious Undertaking.” An annual living-history event hosted each October by the nonprofit Clatsop County Historical Society, Talking Tombstones enlists a handful of volunteers to portray the county’s late citizens in brief vignettes, staged mere feet from their final resting place. Visitors tour the selected cemetery — which changes every year — moving from gravesite to gravesite and watching as reenactors “become” the deceased, a transformation born of serious research and a playful imagination.


VISITORS TOUR THE SELECTED CEMETERY — WHICH CHANGES EVERY YEAR — MOVING FROM GRAVESITE TO GRAVESITE AND WATCHING AS RE-ENACTORS “BECOME” THE DECEASED, A TRANSFORMATION INSPIRED BY SERIOUS RESEARCH AND A PLAYFUL IMAGINATION. “It’s storytelling at probably its best,” said Reid, an insurance agent. “It’s a mini play, if you will, done right.” The historical society rummages through records for interesting lives and colorful characters, names notable and obscure. There is the story of an Astoria cannery worker who fell through an outhouse and drowned in the Columbia River. And the county sheriff who took up bootlegging during Prohibition. And the British immigrant who sent for his favorite plants from England, including the lovely Scotch broom he generously seeded along the roadway and that, a century and a half later, has become a notorious yellow nuisance. They came from different classes, took different journeys and met different fates. But they all lived in Clatsop County, and they’re all dead, interred in a county cemetery. And that makes them fair game for the Talking Tombstones treatment.

I SEE DEAD PEOPLE “Not everyone was a boisterous, outgoing person in history. There were mild and meek people; they’re a big part of our culture and history here,” said Steve Nurding, a local engineer who participated in Talking Tombstones for a decade. The historical society chooses figures from the rich tapestry of Oregon’s history: soldiers and pioneers, housewives and entrepreneurs, doctors and prostitutes, bar owners and Columbia River bar pilots. Some characters died of old age, others died in gunfights or in the 1918 influenza outbreak; some dropped dead after crossing the plains, others perished in the Spanish-American War or in World War II. The region’s household names — the Gimres and Shivelys, the Flavels and Van Dusens — are presented alongside families who left no local legacy. The giants of Oregon’s past share the stage with lives filed away as footnotes, unremembered and unsung. Armed with information dug up by Liisa Penner, the historical society’s archivist, the actors prepare a loose script. Sometimes the museum hands them reams of information compiled from obituaries, cemetery records, Census Bureau data and biographical books; and sometimes the actors have to build a character

KAREN VAN CLEAVE PORTRAYS ESTHER TAYLOR , WHO LIVED IN ASTORIA DURING THE HEIGHTS OF THE CITY’S CANNERY ERA. from nothing but a newspaper clipping. “They didn’t really make full-blown obituaries in the 1870s unless it was somebody who had a lot of money or was really important in the area. Mostly, it was just, ‘So-and-so died of something-or-other,’ and that was about it. Not much more,” Penner explained. “The actors just try to breathe life into it somehow.” And the actors have a lot of creative license. Nurding acts in full period attire and constructs elaborate set pieces to serve as interpretive tools. When he played the hapless cannery worker — “just a happy-go-lucky soul that fell through the toilet into the river” — he

built a prop outhouse and climbed up out of it for the show while a recording of barking sea lions rolled in the background. Two years ago, he played Thaddeus Trullinger, the electrician who wired up an electrified gallows for Astoria’s last hanging — so, naturally, Nurding built a prop gallows. “If you want more facts, go to the library. Go to the Internet. If you really care about where that person went to school, that’s where you go get that information,” Nurding said. “But you come to Talking Tombstones to be more entertained and get a flavor for the history at the same time.”


HISTORICAL INTERPRETATION

Matthew Hensley, a veteran Talking Tombstones actor, doesn’t go for costumes and props, preferring to keep his character the focus of his performance. A history teacher at Astoria Middle School, Hensley knows that delivering dates and dry details doesn’t make for rousing family entertainment. So he finds a hook — a theme to wrap the character around. In October 2015, for the 12th Talking Tombstones, Hensley played John Thomas, a British Islander from South Wales who relocated to Clatsop County in the early 1850s and acquired a large donation land claim that stretched from Cullaby Lake to the seashore. After Thomas fought in the American Indian Wars, he sold his claim and bought a modest piece of land and a few cows, planted a garden and began writing verse (some of which appeared in the early pages of The Daily Astorian). Using a handful of Thomas’ poems and a bare-bones biography from the historical society’s quarterly journal, Hensley got acquainted with the long-dead soldier-turnedpoet. Then, with Thomas lying buried underfoot, Hensley introduced him to Talking Tombstones attendees. “You try to give people the experience of actually having met that person,” he said. “That’s the goal.” He interpreted Thomas’ story as that of a man driven to make a name for himself, pursuing one auspicious enterprise after another until the taste of warfare convinced him to take a different path. Perhaps, Hensley said, the forgotten bard eschewed his great wealth and luxury so he could adopt a simpler way of life, communing with nature as a humble man of letters. “You kind of read between the lines,” Hensley said. “He had 325 acres — why did he sell that and build a little shack? And what I kind of extrapolated is: He does that as soon as he comes back from the Indian Wars that he’s fighting in. And I would imagine that fighting in those wars changed him.” As a first-person interpreter, Hensley’s job is to help people understand what his characters felt, why they behaved as they did, and how history shaped them and their decisions. “Nobody’s going to know him. Nobody’s going to know about him. There’s not going to 92 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

PAUL WINIARZ PORTRAYS W.W. PARKER, WHO WAS A MAYOR OF ASTORIA OUSTED FROM OFFICE FOR ALLEGED “DIRTY DEALINGS” be any relatives here, because he apparently never married — at least, there was no record of a marriage and family and kids,” he said. “I want (visitors) to feel like that person must have had a passion about their life, so I have to have a passion about their life.”

THE DEARLY DEPARTED THE DEPARTED Scores of people turn out each year to spend quality time with the ghosts of Clatsop County’s past. “Once upon a time, cemeteries were parks — they’re outdoors — and it was a place where families would go to picnic and reminisce and reconnect with a lost loved one,” said

McAndrew Burns, the historical society’s executive director. In the last century, cemeteries suffered a serious reputational blow. Thanks to popular culture, cemeteries have taken on a creepy connotation; the presence of the dead now fills the living with fear and disquiet. “We’ve seen too many scary thriller movies,” Burns said. The historical society seeks to resurrect the old feelings of fondness, and it may be working: As few as 400 and as many as 700 visitors attend the free event each year. “If it’s raining on us, we don’t reschedule. We go no matter what,” he said. “On a rainy, windy, cold afternoon in October, it’s pretty amazing to have that many people standing in a cemetery.”


After each presentation, audience members are invited to ask questions, which often bridge the past and present, Burns said. An actor playing Sven Gimre, founder of Gimre’s Shoes, might field a question like: “Mr. Gimre, when you founded your shoe store, did you think it’d still be around more than a century later?” The actor may know the answer, and he may not, but he must answer in character. The goal is to get people excited about the region where the Talking Tombstones personages lived and loved, struggled and schemed, multiplied and died — and, in the process, laid down the culture, texture, and traditions of Oregon’s North Coast towns. And it is to tell the tales of folks no longer around and to tell them in person — tales that few people may have heard, and even fewer now hear. After all: “There’s no other way for that person to reach out and tell their story,” Reid said. “We tend to forget that these cemeteries ... People are buried there, they led lives, and they have stories,” Burns explained, “and this is a way to remember that.”

DAVID REID PORTRAYS CHARLES MCGUIRE, A CLATSOP COUNTY JUDGE, WHO MARRIED TWICE INTO THE SAME WEALTHY FAMILY.

YOU TRY TO GIVE PEOPLE THE EXPERIENCE OF ACTUALLY HAVING MET THAT PERSON ... THAT’S THE GOAL. AFTER EACH PRESENTATION, AUDIENCE MEMBERS ARE INVITED TO ASK QUESTIONS, WHICH OFTEN BRIDGE THE PAST AND PRESENT.

From forest to a fort and onto the river, this park is so many things.

Lewis and Clark National Historical Park Fort Clatsop Visitor Center is located at: 92343 Fort Clatsop Road Astoria, OR 97103 503.861.2471 For more information visit www.nps.gov/lewi The park & bookstore are open daily 9 am - 5 pm Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 93


Astoria-Warrenton region Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places Coast. Click map button to find contact info and links for that locaces ttoo st stay a oonn Ou ay Ourr Coas C oast. t C lick onn a ma li tion, onn, pl pplus u oour us uurr rrecommendations ecom ec omme om m nd me ndat a ioons for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do. at

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Flavel F House — 441 Eighth St., Astoria L Liberty Theater — 1203 Commercial St., Astoria F to Sea Trail — Fort Clatsop to Sunset Beach Fort F Stevens State Park — 100 Ridge Road, Hammond Fort C Clatsop County Heritage Museum — 16th and Exchange st streets, Astoria 6. Columbia C River Maritime Museum — 1792 Marine Drive, A Astoria 7. Oregon O Film Museum — 732 Duane St., Astoria 8. Fort F Clatsop — 92343 Fort Clatsop Road, Astoria 9. Fort F Astoria — 15th and Exchange streets, Astoria 110 0. Astoria A 10. Aquatic Center — 1997 Marine Drive, Astoria 11. Maritime M Memorial Park — 200 W. Marine Drive, Astoria 12. Uppertown 12 U Firefighters Museum — 2986 Marine Drive, Astoria 13. Astoria A Column — 1 Coxcomb Drive, off 15th Street, Astoria 14. Lower 14 L Columbia Disc Golf Course — at Clatsop County F Wallusski Loop, A Astoria Fairgrounds, 929377 Walluski Flavel House

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Long Beach Peninsula Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.

1. Leadbetter Point State Park — Ocean Park, Wash., 19 miles north of Seaview 2. Discovery Trail — Ilwaco to north end of Long Beach, Wash. 3. Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum — 115 Lake St. S.E., Ilwaco, Wash. 4. Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center — Cape Disappointment State Park, two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash. 5. Port of Ilwaco — 165 Howerton Ave., Ilwaco, Wash. TILLAMOOK 6. Cranberry Museum — 2907 Pioneer Road, Long Beach, Wash. 7. Fort Columbia State Park — U.S. Highway 101, two miles west of the Astoria Bridge in Chinook, Wash. 8. Cape Disappointment State Park — two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash. 9. North Head Lighthouse and Cape Disappointment Lighthouse — within Cape Disappointment State Park 10. World Kite Museum — 303 S.W. Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach, Wash. 11. Willapa Interpretive Art Trail — near Refuge Headquarters in Willapa National Wildlife Refuge 12. Knappton Cove Heritage Center — two miles past the rest stop north of the Astoria Bridge on Washington state Route 401 13. Appelo Archive Center — 1056 state Route 4, Naselle, Wash.

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Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.

26

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Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and llinks for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.

Roa d

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U.S. highways State routes City, rural routes State boundary Trails, walks Rivers Lakes, open water Parks and forests Municipal areas Cities, townships Alan Kenaga/EO Media Group


3CATION

LO

PENINSULA ARTS ASSOCIATION

S

2016 PAA Art Events April 1 to 3 ~ 25th Spring Art Show ~ LB Depot & PAA Office June 10 ~ Unveiling NW Garlic Poster Reception ~ Ocean Park June 18 & 19 ~ NW Garlic Festival (posters on sale) ~ Ocean Park July 4th Parade, Sidewalk Chalk Give-Away ~ Ocean Park July 22 to 23 Summer Art Event - LB Depot October 7 to 9 ~ 46th Fall Art Show ~ LB Depot & PAA Office November 25 & 26 ~ 9th PAA Studio Tour

www.beachartist.org

COME IN E AND BROUWGES OUR H SELECTION

FEATURING AUTO/TRUCK PARTS & ACCESSORIES

Family owned & operated since 1966

We are a full-service propane company where you will find...

et

Schedule an appointment online today! Visit our website or call us toll free at

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EVERYTHING AUTOMOTIVE IN 1 PLACE!

e bl la ai Av ly s rd end Ca fri te e ift e- si cl G il b cy ob e e d M W e R se il W U O

1318 Pacific Hwy North • www.propanelongbeach.com We also do sheet metal fabrication & sign work!

RV & Marine • Heavy Duty • Small Engine ATV • Welding • Performance • Imports Tools & Equipment • Interior & Exterior Martin Senour Paints & Finishes

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• High efficiency L.P. furnaces • Other Indoor and Outdoor Products • RV Parts and accessories • RV and Vehicle propane fill station • RV Dump Station • RV Pull Thru from Pacific Highway or Washington Ave North

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• Rent and install propane tanks • Tanks from 25 - 1,000 gallons • Gas Appliance System Check • Fireplaces • Propane Heaters (space or whole house) • On-Demand Water Heaters • Gas appliance installations

WE CARRY MARIN PARTS TOEO!

We are confident that our ASE-certified parts professionals can satisfy your auto parts needs!

ASTORIA 2275 Commercial 503-325-2411

SEASIDE 909 Holladay 503-738-5528

SEAVIEW, WA 5016 Pacific Hwy 360-642-3911

Job Corps provid es econ om icallyd isad van tag ed youth, ag es 16-24, w ith the train in g n eed ed to succeed in a career an d in life. Tongue Point Job Corps Center

503-338-4924

http://tonguepoint.jobcorps.gov SUCCESS LASTS A LIFETIME

In supportin g their em ployability, youn g people can earn a GED or hig h school d iplom a w hile learn in g career skills an d d evelopin g life skills to help fin d an d keep a g ood job.

Job O p p ortun ities Availab le - H elp Chan g e Lives!w w w .m tcjob s.com

• Bu ild in g Con stru ction Tech n ology • Ca rp en try • Cem en tM a son ry • Com p u terTech n icia n • Cu lin a ry Arts • D en ta l Assista n t • Electrica l • G la zin g • L a n d sca p in g • M ed ica l Assista n t • O ffice Ad m in istra tion • Pa in tin g • Pla sterin g • Sea m a n sh ip • W eld in g • AA D egree a t Cla tsop Com m u n ity College

100 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

AHAB OUTDOOR WARNING SYSTEM During a routine TEST of the system, the siren will play the Westminster Chimes followed by a voice message. Upon issuance of a TSUNAMI WARNING the siren will play a wail sound and a voice message will follow advising a tsunami warning has been issued.

The AHAB outdoor warning system is tested on the first Monday of every month at noon.

Pacific County Emergency Management Agency 360-875-9340 • 360-642-9340 P0 Box 27 • 300 Memorial Drive South Bend, WA 98586 http://www.co.pacific.wa.us/pcema


Su rfs id e o ffic e

1.8 0 0 .774 .4 114 O c ea n Pa rk o ffic e

1.8 0 0 .8 5 4 .0 0 3 2 Lo ng B ea c h o ffic e

1.8 0 0 .8 5 4 .2 2 3 2

EMERALD HEIGHTS

A PARTMENTS M o n d a y -Frid a y 9a m -5p m N O APPO IN TM EN T N ECES S ARY fo rm o re in fo rm a tio n ca ll

5 03 -3 25 -8221 FAX 503-325-8179

Em a il:em era ld heig hts@ cha rter.n et W eb site:em era ld heig htsa p a rtm en ts.co m

“H O M E O F G REAT EVEN TS – BIG & SM ALL” • C latsop C ounty Fair • Astoria-W arrenton C rab, Seafood & W ine Festival • Scandinavian M idsum m er Festival • W eddings,Banquets,Equine Events & m ore

503.325.4600

C latsopFairgrounds.com

Consider our civic facility for your wedding, meeting or special event rockawaybeachor.us Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 101


our coast advertiser index

ANIMAL SHELTERS Clatsop Animal Assistance..................104 1315 SE 19th Street P.O. Box 622 Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-7387 • (503) 861-0737 www.dogsncats.org

ANTIQUES Phog Bounders Antique Mall .............104 892 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-0101 www.phogbounders.com

APARTMENTS Emerald Heights Apartments.............101 1 Emerald Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8221 www.emeraldheightsapartments.com

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Astor Street Opry ....................................55 129 Bond Street, Union Town Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6104 www.astorstreetoprycompany.com Astoria Art Loft........................................18 106 Third Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4442 www.astoriaartloft.com Astoria Music Festival.............................19 1271 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-9896 www.astoriamusicfestival.org Bay Avenue Gallery ................................47 1406 Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 97640 (360) 665-5200 www.bayavenuegallery.com Clatsop County Historical Society......108 P.O. Box 88 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2203 www.cumtux.org Coaster Theatre Playhouse....................33 108 North Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-3602 www.coastertheatre.com Finnish-American Folk Festival.............67 P.O. Box 156 Naselle, WA 98638 (360) 484-3602 www.finnam-naselle.net Friends Of Old Fort Stevens ..................24 P.O. Box 138 Hammond, OR 97121 (503) 861-1470 www.visitftstevens.com Liberty Theater......................................104 1203 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5922 www.liberty-theater.org Marie Powell Shoalwater Cove Gallery .......................38 On the waterfront, Port of Ilwaco P.O. Box 899 Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 244-0800 www.marie-powell.com North Coast Chorale...............................67 P.O. Box 632 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 791-5681 www.northcoastchorale.org

Pacific County Historical Society........104 1008 West Robert Bush Drive South Bend, WA 98586 (360) 875-5224 www.pacificcohistory.com

City of Rockaway Beach ......................101 276 Hwy 101 South Rockaway Beach, OR 97136 (503) 355-2291 www.rockawaybeachor.us

Peninsula Arts Association..................100 P.O. Box 321 Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-5319 www.beachartist.org

City of Seaside Visitors Bureau...........106 989 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-3097 • (888) 306-2326 www.SeasideOR.com

Scandinavian Midsummer Festival .....32 P.O. Box 34 Astoria, OR 97103 www.astoriascanfest.com

Clatsop County Fairgrounds...............101 92937 Walluski Loop Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4600 www.clatsopfairgrounds.com

Boreas Bed & Breakfast Inn.................104 607 Ocean Beach Boulevard N. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-8069 www.boreasinn.com

Friends of the Astoria Column..............24 1 Coxcomb Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2963 www.astoriacolumn.org

Cannon Beach Vacation Rentals ........105 164 Sunset Boulevard Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-0940 • (866) 436-0940 www.visitcb.com

Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau...............................11, 65 3914 Pacific Way Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2400 www.funbeach.com

Columbia Inn ...........................................33 495 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4211 www.columbiainnastoria.com

Seaside Jazz Festival ............................105 P.O. Box 815 Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6894 • (866) 345-6257 www.jazzseaside.com Sunday Afternoon Live........................104 323 3rd Street Raymond, WA 98577 (360) 875-5831 www.sundayafternoonlive.org Wiegardt Studio Gallery ........................38 2607 Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-5976 www.ericwiegardt.com

ASSISTED LIVING Suzanne Elise...........................................38 101 Forest Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-0307 www.suzanneelise.com

DAY SPA Spa at Cannery Pier Hotel ...................104 No. 10 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-4772 www.cannerypierhotel.com/spa

DENTISTS Klemp Family Dentistry.......................104 1006 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0116 www.klempfamilydentistry.com Jeffrey Leinassar, DMD, FAGD...............32 1414 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0310 www.smileastoria.com

EDUCATION Clatsop Community College.................25 1651 Lexington Avenue Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-2411 www.clatsopcc.edu Tongue Point Job Corps Center..........100 37573 Highway 30 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-4924 www.tonguepoint.jobcorps.gov

FAMILY, COMMUNITY & CIVIC ORGANIZATIONS

Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce..........................35 1715 E. Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 98640 (888) 751-9354 www.opwa.com Seaside Carousel Mall ............................39 300 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6728 www.seasidecarouselmall.com Seaside Chamber of Commerce...........32 7 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6391 www.seasidechamber.com Seaside Civic and Convention Center ....60 415 First Avenue Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-8585 www.seasideconvention.com The Astoria Armory..............................104 1636 Exchange Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0557 www.astoriaarmory.com

HEALTH CARE Clatsop Care Memory Center................55 2219 SE Dolphin Avenue Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 717-3659 www.clatsopcare.org Columbia Memorial Hospital..................4 2111 Exchange St. Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4321 www.columbiamemorial.org

LODGING & TRAVEL Astoria Crest Motel.................................60 5366 Leif Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-3141 www.astoriacrestmotel.com Astoria Rivershore Motel.......................60 59 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2921 www.rivershoremotel.com

Gearhart By The Sea...............................18 1157 N. Marion Gearhart, OR 97138 (800) 547-0115 www.gearhartresort.com Inn at Cannon Beach............................105 3215 S. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9085 (800) 321-6304 www.innatcannonbeach.com Inn at Seaside ..........................................39 441 2nd Avenue Seaside, OR 97138 (800) 699-5070 • (503) 738-9581 www.innatseaside.com Land’s End at Cannon Beach...............105 263 West Second Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (800) 793-1477 • (503) 436-2264 www.landsendcb.com Lighthouse Inn......................................105 963 S. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (866) 265-1686 • (503) 436-2929 www.cblighthouseinn.com McMenamins Gearhart Hotel ......18, 105 1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 717-8159 www.mcmenamins.com/gearharthotel Oceanside Vacation Rentals..................33 43 N. Holladay Seaside, OR 97138 (800) 840-7764 • (503) 738-7767 www.oceanside1.com River Inn at Seaside ................................39 531 Avenue A Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-5744 www.riverinnatseaside.com

Astoria Parks & Recreation....................61 1997 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-7027 www.astoriaparks.com

Providence Seaside Hospital..............107 725 S. Wahanna Road Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-7000 www.providence.org/northcoast

Seaside Oceanfront Inn .........................47 581 S. Prom Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6403 www.theseasideinn.com

Astoria Sunday Market........................104 Downtown on 12th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-1010 www.astoriasundaymarket.com

Urgent Care NW – Astoria .....................25 2120 Exchange Street, #111 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0333 www.urgentcarenwastoria.com

Shelburne Inn .........................................60 4415 Pacific Way Seaview, WA 98644 (800) 466-1896 • (360) 642-2442 www.shelburneinn.com

102 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

Shilo Inns - On the Prom in Seaside .......6 30 N. Prom Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-9571 Shilo Inns - Seaside ...................................6 900 S. Holladay Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-0549 Shilo Inns - Warrenton..............................6 1609 E. Harbor Street Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-2181 www.shiloinns.com The Anchorage Cottages.......................60 2209 Ocean Beach Boulevard North Long Beach, WA 98631 (800) 642-2351 www.TheAnchorageCottages.com

MUSEUMS Cannon Beach History Center & Museum..............................................105 1387 South Spruce Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9301 www.cbhistory.org Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum ....47 P.O. Box 153 115 Lake Street Southeast Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 642-3446 www.columbiapacificheritagemuseum.org Columbia River Maritime Museum........2 1792 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2323 www.crmm.org Cranberry Museum & Gift Shop ...........65 2907 Pioneer Road Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-5553 www.cranberrymuseum.com Garibaldi Maritime Museum ..............105 112 Highway 101 Garibaldi, OR 97118 (503) 322-8411 www.garibaldimuseum.org Lost Art of Nursing Museum.................67 3285 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (301) 208-8060 www.pronurse.com Marsh’s Free Museum ............................42 409 Pacific Way S. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2188 www.marshsfreemuseum.com Northwest Carriage Museum ...............31 314 Alder Street Raymond, WA 98577 (360) 942-4150 www.nwcarriagemuseum.org World Kite Museum & Hall Of Fame ....65 303 Sid Snyder Drive West Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4020 www.worldkitemuseum.com

NATIONAL PARKS Lewis & Clark National Historical Park...93 92343 Fort Clatsop Road Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 861-2471 www.fortclatsopbookstore.com

PUBLIC BROADCASTING Oregon Public Broadcasting.................47 7140 SW Macadam Portland, OR 97219 (503) 445-1874 www.opb.org


Pacific County Emergency Management Agency..........................100 300 Memorial Drive, P.O. Box 101 South Bend, WA 98586 (360) 875-9338 www.co.pacific.wa.us/pcema

RADIO STATIONS Coast Community Radio........................31 1445 Exchange Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0010 www.coastradio.org

REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION Cascade Sotheby’s International Realty ................................5 650 SW Bond Street Bend, OR 97702 (541) 383-7600 www.cascadesothebysrealty.com Discovery Coast Real Estate ..................11 1711 Pacific Avenue S Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3325 www.discoverycoastrealestate.com Lighthouse Realty ................................101 710 Pacific Avenue S. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4461 www.lighthouseproperty.com Pacific Realty ...........................................42 102 NE Bolstad Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3127 www.pacreal.com

RESTAURANTS, FOOD & BEVERAGE

Maggies on the Prom.............................32 581 S. Prom Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6403 www.maggiesontheprom.com

Beach Books ..........................................105 616 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-3500 www.beachbooks37.com

Homespun Quilts....................................24 108 10th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-3300 www.homespunquilt.com

McMenamins Sandtrap.................18, 105 1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 717-8159 www.mcmenamins.com/648-sand-trappub-menus

Bikes & Beyond .....................................104 1089 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2961 www.bikesandbeyond.com

Imogen Gallery........................................19 240 11th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0620 www.imogengallery.com

Bruce’s Candy Kitchen............................38 256 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2641 Bruce’s Candy Kitchen - Seaside...........38 In the Seaside Outlet Mall Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-7828 www.brucescandy.com

Interior Style..........................................104 109 9th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4766 www.interiorstyleboutique.com

Nanci & Jimella’s Café & Cocktails ........65 21742 Pacific Way Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4847 www.jimellaandnancis.com Seaside Coffee House ..........................105 5 N. Holladay Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-0111 www.seasidecoffeeroasters.com Seasonal Seafoods..................................31 306 Dike Road Bay Center, WA 98527 (888) 905-9079 www.baycenterfarms.com Shelburne Inn, Restaurant & Pub.........60 4415 Pacific Way Seaview, WA 98644 (800) 466-1896 • (360) 642-2442 www.shelburneinn.com Ship Inn.....................................................61 #1 2nd Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0033 www.shipinn-astoria.com

Bell Buoy...................................................61 1800 S, Roosevelt Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-2722 • (800) 529-2722 www.bellbuoyofseaside.com

Street 14 Café ..........................................55 1410 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5511 www.street14coffee.com

Blue Scorcher Bakery & Cafe ................24 1493 Duane Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-7473 www.bluescorcher.coop

Sweet Basils Café ....................................32 271 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1539 www.cafesweetbasils.com

Bridgewater Bistro..................................19 20 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6777 www.bridgewaterbistro.com

The Beach Club Tavern.........................105 14 N. Downing Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-1134 www.facebook.com/beachclubtav

Camp 18 Restaurant...............................61 42362 Highway 26 Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 755-1818 www.camp18restaurant.com

The Depot Restaurant............................60 1208 38th Place Seaview, WA 98644 (360) 642-7880 www.depotrestaurantdining.com

Coffee Girl.................................................55 100 39th Street, Suite 2 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6900 www.thecoffeegirl.com

The Human Bean of Seaside...............105 1545 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 735-5405 1526 SE Discovery Lane The Human Bean of Warrenton .........105 Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-8621 www.thehumanbean.com

Doogers Seafood & Grill ........................47 900 S. Pacific Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4224

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

Geno’s Pizza & Burgers...........................55 3693 Lief Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4927

4 Seasons Clothing .................................55 1405 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8200

Hungry Harbor Grille..............................61 313 Pacific Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-5555 www.hungryharbor.com

Active Enterprises.................................100 1318 Pacific Avenue North Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2102 www.propanelongbeach.com

Cannon Beach Florist, Basketcase .....105 123 S. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2106 • (800) 611-5826 www.cannonbeachflorist.com Cannon Beach Leather...........................67 239 N, Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-0208 Clatsop Power Equipment.....................25 34912 Hwy 101 Business Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0792 www.clatsoppower.stihldealer.net Cleanline Surf Shop - Seaside...............18 60 N. Roosevelt Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-7888 Cleanline Surf Shop - Cannon Beach...18 171 Sunset Blvd. Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9726 www.cleanlinesurf.com Dennis Company.....................................31 201 Pacific Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3166 www.denniscompany.com Dogs Allowed Cannon Beach .............105 148-B N. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 440-8740 www.dogsallowedcannonbeach.com Fairweather House & Garden ...............18 612 Broadway Historic Gilbert District Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-8899 www.fairweatherhouseandgarden.com Finn Ware..................................................24 1116 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5720 www.finnware.com Forsythea Home & Garden .................104 1124 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2189 Fred Meyer ...............................................20 695 Hwy 101 Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-3000 www.fredmeyer.com Golden Whale Jewelry.........................105 194 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1166

Jacks Country Store................................43 Corner of Pacific Hwy & Bay Avenue 26006 SR 103 Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4989 www.jackscountrystore.com Jonathan’s LTD.........................................31 332 12th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-7600 Luminari Arts...........................................19 1133 Commercial St. Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0308 Maggie & Henry ......................................38 172 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1718 • (877) 511-5752 www.maggieandhenry.com RiverSea Gallery......................................19 1160 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-1270 www.riverseagallery.com Seaside Carousel Mall ............................39 300 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6728 www.seasidecarouselmall.com Seaside Outlets..........................................7 1111 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-1603 www.seasideoutlets.com Sunset Auto Parts/Napa .....................100 909 S. Holladay Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-5528 www.sunsetautoparts.com Tempo Gallery .........................................19 1271 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0763 The Herons Nest Gifts.............................39 405 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-8854 www.facebook.com/TheHeronsNestGifts The Wine Shack .......................................33 124 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1100 www.beachwine.com Video Horizons ...................................104X 750 Astor Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-7310 www.videohorizons.formovies.com

Walter E. Nelson ......................................25 2240 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6362

RV PARKS & CAMPGROUNDS Cannon Beach RV Resort.....................105 340 Elk Creek Rd Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2231 • (800) 847-2231 www.cbrvresort.com Driftwood RV Park ..................................42 1512 Pacific Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 (888) 567-1902 www.driftwood-rvpark.net Westgate Cabins & RV Park...................47 20803 Pacific Way Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4211 www.vacationwestgate.com

SPORTS & RECREATION Clatsop Paddle Company ......................33 Mobile business info@clatsoppaddle.com (503) 791-9619 www.clatsoppaddle.com Gearhart Golf Links.................................18 1157 N. Marion Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 738-3538 www.gearhartgolflinks.com Highlife Adventures ...............................32 92111 High Life Road Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-9875 www.highlife-adventures.com NW Women’s Surf Camps ......................18 P.O. Box 425 Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 440-5782 www.nwwomenssurfcamps.com Peninsula Golf Course............................61 9604 Pacific Hwy Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2828 www.peninsulagolfcourse.com Port of Ilwaco...........................................21 165 Howerton Avenue Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 642-3143 www.portofilwaco.com

TRANSPORTATION Royal Cab, LLC..........................................25 P.O. Box 101 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5818 – Oregon (360) 665-3500 - Washington www.royalcab.net Sunset Empire Transportation District....24 900 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 861-7433 www.ridethebus.org

TRAVEL Our Coast Magazine..................................101 949 Exchange P.O. Box 210 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-3211 www.discoverourcoast.com

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 103

our coast advertiser index

PUBLIC UTILITIES


our coast oregon/washington business directory

ANIMAL SHELTERS

ANTIQUES

COMMUNITY ORGANIZATIONS- OR

COMMUNITY ORGANIZATIONS- OR

storia SUNDAY MARKET

CLATSOP ANIMAL ASSISTANCE Adopt your new best friend at the Clatsop County Animal Shelter! 1315 SE 19th St., Warrenton

503-861-7387 • 503-861-0737 www.dogsncats.org Open 12-4 pm, Tues-Sat Follow us on

PHOG BOUNDERS ANTIQUE MALL 55+Vendors Antiques • Nautical Items Glassware • Vintage Decor

E

EVERY SUNDAY May 8th thru Oct. 9th, 2016 12th Street Historic Downtown 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

892 Marine Drive, Astoria OR 97103

(503) 338-0101

Visit our website for future events

www.liberty-theater.org

1203 Commercial Street Astoria, Oregon 97103

MORE THAN JUST ANTIQUES!

WWW.ASTORIASUNDAYMARKET.COM

503-325-5922 x55

DAY SPA

DENTISTS

HEALTH CARE

COMMUNITY ORGANIZATIONS- OR

TH

ASTORIA SUNDAY MARKET

A STO RIA A RM O RY

RO LLER SK ATIN G every Frid ay 5-9pm . Facility available for special even ts, private parties,corporate events,fairs,trade show s, an d con certs. 503-791-6064 w w w .a storia a rm ory.com L ik e ou rF rien d s of the Astoria Arm ory F a cebook pa ge!

MASSAGE, FACIALS, BODY TREATMENTS • Authentic Finnish sauna • Mineral therapy hot tub • Gift certificates available

KLEMP FAMILY DENTISTRY W e h elp keep fam ilies sm ilin g!

To ta l D en ta l Excellen ce C o m e and see h o w co m fo rtab le d entistry can really b e...

NO.10 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103

503-338-4772

INTERIOR

2120 Exchange Street, Suite 111

CANNERYPIERHOTEL.COM

www.urgentcarenwastoria.com

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

Style

Gifts Fine Furniture Antiques Home Accessories Decor Interior Design

We are open 7 days a week from 9am to 7pm

1006 West Marine Drive, Astoria (503) 468-0116 www.klempfamilydentistry.com

Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. RETAILERS & SHOPPING

Available for all of your routine healthcare needs, not just for em ergency situations!

503-325-0333

F o r s y t h e a home & garden ARTS

Service • Sa les • Ren ta ls

WALTER E. NELSON CO. Formerly at 1055 Marine Drive Astoria Janitor & Paper Supply is NOW KNOWN ASWalter E Nelson Co. Janitorial & Paper Supplies

FORSYTHEA HOME & GARDEN ARTS

Since 1988, the leader in bicycle sales, service & rentals on the North Coast.

•artisan decor & garden ornament •traditional children’s toys

503.325.2961

1124 Commercial St., Astoria 97103 Find us on

503-325-2189

1089 MARINE DR ASTORIA, OREGON

2240 Commercial Street - Millpond Area Astoria 503-325-6362 • 800-344-1943

Open Mon.- Sat. 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Sunday 12 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.

Closed Tuesday & Wednesday

YOUR LOCAL JANITORIAL & PAPER SUPPLY STORE

WHERE NATURE & ART COLLIDE IN DECOR THAT WILL BOTH REFRESH & COMFORT

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

COMMUNITY ORGANIZATIONS- WA

LODGING-WA

MUSEUMS-WA

LOCATED AT THE HISTORIC RAYMOND T HEATER

BOREAS BED AND BREAKFAST INN

PACIFIC COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY

109 9th St., Astoria 503-325-4766

“O ld sch oolvideos” a live a n d w ellin A storia D V D /Blu -R ay/V H S/ V id eo G am es O ver 30,000 titles to rent! O ver 1000 titles on sale u nd er $10! T ouristsw elcom e w ith C reditC ard 750 A ST O R ST , A ST O R IA 503-325-7310 V ID EO H O R IZO N S.FO R M O V IES.C O M L ik e u s on Facebook forn ew release u pdates an d daily specials!

323 3RD STREET RAYMOND,WA. 98577 VISIT OUR WEBSITE FOR UPCOMING EVENTS SUNDAY AFTERNOONLIVE.ORG

360-875-5207

104 • Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com

Seattle KING5 TV Evening Magazine’s “Top 5 Best B&B” since 2009 • Spectacular Ocean Views • Five Romantic Suites • Private Hot Tub By The Dunes • Gourmet Breakfast Included • Concierge Service

607 Ocean Beach Boulevard N. Long Beach, WA 98631

360-642-8069 • 888-642-8069 BOREASINN.COM

H O URS: M O N – SAT SUN

10 – 6 12–5

WWW . BIKESANDBEYOND . COM

Museum & Visitor Center Local and Northwest History Book Store • Maps and Charts MP 54, Hwy. 101 - South Bend

360-875-5224 Open Every Day! 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Free Admission www.pacificcohistory.org


LODGING-OR

LODGING-OR

LODGING-OR

LIGHTHOUSE INN

INN AT CANNON BEACH

Suites • Kitchenettes • Private Balconies • Walk to Downtown

Tranquil, garden setting with pond • pet and family friendly

6 +HPORFN &DQQRQ %HDFK (503) 436-2929

6 +HPORFN &DQQRQ %HDFK (503) 436-9085

LQIR#FEOLJKWKRXVHLQQ FRP

LQIR#LQQDWFDQQRQEHDFK FRP

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Join US!

Presented by Lighthouse Jazz Society

33 YEARS

Always the last weekend in February 33rd Annual

Seaside Jazz Festival Five Locations throughout Seaside Dance Floors • 12 Bands • Free Shuttle More information at www.jazzseaside.com 1-866-345-6257 • Mon - Fri • 9 to 5

LODGING-OR

MUSEUMS-OR

MUSEUMS-OR

MIDWEEK SPECIAL

CANNON BEACH HISTORY CENTER AND MUSEUM

GARIBALDI MARITIME MUSEUM

THE BEACH CLUB

Preserving the Maritime Heritage RI WKH 3DFLÀ F 1RUWKZHVW Focusing on Captain Robert Gray and his historical vessels

Coldest Beer in Town, Pool Tables, Oregon Lottery, Horse Shoe Pits during Summer, Friendy Atmosphere, Covered Smokong Area

112 Hwy 101, Garibaldi, Oregon (503)322-8411

14 N. Downing, Seaside (503)717-1134

25% off 2 or more nights Sunday - Thursday • Right on the beach • Pets welcome 263 W 2nd St. Cannon Beach, OR 97110

503-436-2264 • 800-793-1477 LandsEndCB.com

Experience Cannon Beach’s Unique History With... • Interactive Exhibits • • Acoustic Folk! Series • • Engaging Lectures • • Rotating Quilt Shows • • Gift Shop & More! •

garibaldimuseum.org

RESTAURANTS/BEVERAGES

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

MCMENAMINS GEARHART HOTEL

CANNON BEACH FLORIST

excluding holidays.

RESTAURANTS/BEVERAGES

• Fresh Locally Roasted Organic Fair Trade Beans • Hot Breakfast Choices-Fresh Baked Coffee Cake and Pastries • Comfortable Living Room Atmosphere • Daily Lunch Specials - Eat In or Take Out - Free WIFI

OPEN DAILY

Located in the Historic Downtown Gilbert District 5 N. Holladay, Seaside 503.717.0111 • Free WiFi 6am Weekdays • 7am Weekdays

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

Open April through October, 10 am to 4 pm (Weekends in March & November), Gift Shop

Hours: 11:30am to 1:30am Daily Follow us on Facebook

1387 S. Spruce, Cannon Beach 503-436-9301 • www.cbhistory.org

OFFER VALID through May 26, 2016,

Handcrafted ales, wines and spirits available to go.

1157 N. Marion Ave. Gearhart (503)717-8159 Just four miles north of Seaside, our Gearhart Hotel is ideally situated for its access to both the beach and a golf course. We offer Northwest-style pub fare that incorporates the freshest seasonal ingredients from local and regional growers and producers.

Your beach destination wedding specialist CALL FOR FREE CONSULTATION Conveniently located in downtown Cannon Beach

123 S. Hemlock • Cannon Beach

503-436-2106

www.cannonbeachflorist.com

DOGS ALLOWED The Destination for Dogs & for the owner who is looking for a little something more 148-B N. Hemlock Cannon Beach

503.440.8740

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MCMENAMINS.COM/GEARHARTHOTEL

LOCAL FLORIST • LOCAL FLOWERS LOCAL SERVICE

WWW.DOGSALLOWEDCANNONBEACH.COM

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

RESTAURANTS/BEVERAGES

RV & CAMPGROUNDS

THE HUMAN BEAN

CANNON BEACH RV RESORT

House Specialties, Frozen Favorates Classics, Espresso Drinks, To-GoBox, Whole Beans by the Pound Pastry, Bakery Items& Snacks

Full-service, full-hookups for campers and trailers up to 60 ft

â—Š Locally Owned and

Operated for 10 years

GOLDEN WHALE JEWELRY

â—Š Author Events in the Loft

Bridal • Gemstones • Silver Gold • Navaho • Earrings 14kt Gold & Sterling Charms Quality jewelry in gold, titanium and sterling silver by nationally know artists

â—Š Book Clubs-Book

194 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach (503)436-1166 • (800)548-3918 OPEN DAILY If you are looking for something unique, Visit the Golden Whale

Recommendations

â—Š Special Orders-Shop

online with us 24/7!

â—Š Much more than just

books; Journals, Cards, and Puzzles

616 Broadway, Seaside • 503.738.3500 www.beachbooks37.com

In Seaside On Hwy 101 North Just South of Stop & Go In Warrenton Next to Costco www.thehumanbean.com

(ON &UHHN 5G &DQQRQ %HDFK (503) 436-2231 LQIR#FEUYUHVRUW FRP ZZZ FEUYUHVRUW FRP

Our Coast 2016 • discoverourcoast.com • 105

our coast seaside & cannon beach ,oregon business directory

ANNUAL

COMMUNITY ORGANIZATIONS- OR


HOW TO SEASIDE Some places guard their secrets and don’t want anyone to visit. Not Seaside, Oregon. We can’t wait for you to come! Whether you’re looking to bike, hike, golf, kayak, surf, boogie board, dig for razor clams, ride the carousel, walk the promenade, eat saltwater taffy, drink local craft beer, or just Áy a kite on our beautiful beach, we’ll tell you how, when, and where to do it.

seasideOR.com


Playing safe at the beach Be beach smart. Even though the beach is fun, you need to play safe. The Oregon Coast is a great place to visit. Whether you are looking for seashells, building sand castles or exploring tide pools, the beach can be a lot of fun. Remember, the ocean has dangerous waves, logs, rocks and cliffs. Talk to your family and friends about how to play safe on the beach.

Beware of rip currents. Rip currents are strong currents of water that rush out to sea. They can form on any beach that has breaking waves. If you look closely, you can see a rip current. It will have dark muddy water and be very choppy. You might see foam and other debris floating out to sea. If you see a rip current, stay away! They are very dangerous. If you are ever caught in a rip current, don’t panic. Try to relax and swim parallel to the beach. Don’t try to fight the current. If you have trouble swimming, tread water and call for help. Parents: Be sure always to watch your children closely when they are playing in and around water.

Don’t climb on drift logs. Logs on wet sand or in the water are especially dangerous. The ocean is strong enough to pick up even the biggest log and drop it on top of you. If you see a log on wet sand, stay off of it.

Be aware of incoming tides. Tide pools can be so interesting that you might lose track of time. Make sure you know when the tide is coming in so that you don’t get stranded. Free tide tables, available at state park offices, information centers and many shops and motels, list the times of high and low tides.

Be careful on cliffs and rocks. Ocean spray and heavy rains can make rocks and trails slippery and unsafe. Stay on marked trails and behind all fences. They are there for your safety. When hiking, make sure you wear the right type of shoes. Stay away from cliff edges. Don’t stand under overhanging cliffs, which can be dangerous.

Beware of sneaker waves. Watch out for “sneaker waves.” These are waves that appear suddenly and are unusually large. They rush up on the shore with enough force to knock you down and drag you out to sea. Keep your eyes on the ocean.

Understand tsunamis. There are two types of tsunami warnings that you need to be aware of: a distant event and a local event. With a distant event, you will be alerted by sirens located throughout the city. Proceed by foot and follow the posted evacuation route signs to higher ground. With a local event, you will feel a powerful earthquake. Take immediate cover until the earthquake subsides, then go immediately to higher ground on foot, following the posted evacuation routes.

Know who to call when you need help. In an emergency, call 911. • Providence Seaside Hospital 725 S. Wahanna Road, Seaside, OR 97138 503-717-7000 • Providence Medical Group-Seaside with walk-in availability 727 S. Wahanna Road, Seaside, OR 97138 503-717-7060 • Providence Medical Group-Cannon Beach with walk-in availability 171 N. Larch, Suite 16, Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-717-7400 • Providence Medical Group-Warrenton with walk-in availability 171 S. Highway 101, Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-6500 For Providence Medical Group appointments or to check walk-in availability, call the nearest north coast clinic listed above. Providence.org/northcoast



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