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Welcome to
our coast It’s a place that reminds you what the Pacific Northwest is all about
What is it like to arrive for the first time at the Columbia River estuary aboard a cruise ship? Here, where the Great River of the West joins the Pacific Ocean, many of us make smaller journeys in fishing boats. Access to these legendary waters is one of the profound opportunities of living along the Lower Columbia and Willapa Bay. To travel here for the first time, whether by land or by sea, strikes me as a mighty enviable experience. Especially standing on the deck of what amounts to a floating city as it glides toward the soaring spires of the Astoria Bridge. European-Americans have been making the voyage into the Columbia since 1792. But the original settlers – the Chinooks, Clatsops and related Indian peoples – arrived while massive glaciers gripped the north. Developing one of North America’s first great trading empires, they mastered the art of sculpting canoes from cedar trees. The elegant symmetry of these watercraft – perhaps the most artful vessels ever created – was matched by the effortless grace of their oarsmen. The real wonder of our coast is that its natural magic survives. You can experience waters and forests that inspired
native artistry a thousand years ago. Call up a satellite image of the mouth of the Columbia River. Dozens of miles of undeveloped shoreline invite exploration. Islands, lakes, forgotten inlets, coastal villages and famous historical trails all make one’s imagination race. Generation after generation, families make annual sojourns here to recharge spirits and build strong memories. Much as you’ll love playing on our beaches and exploring our system of national and state parks, it’s our people who will bring you back. The noble-hearted oystermen and women of Willapa Bay. The friendly artisans and vendors of Saturday Market at the Port of Ilwaco and Astoria Sunday Market. The chefs of our dozens of regionally renowned
The real wonder of our coast is that its natural magic survives.
restaurants. The volunteers of the Crab, Seafood & Wine Festival, the Washington State International Kite Festival, Rod Run to the End of the World, Astoria Regatta, Scandinavian Midsummer Festival and many other events. The lifesavers of the U.S. Coast Guard. We all join in creating strong and fascinating communities that you’ll love visiting. All this is easily accessible to the cities of Puget Sound and the Willamette Valley. Astoria, Seaside, Cannon Beach and the Long Beach Peninsula are far enough from the cities to maintain their hip originality, but so close that an easy drive will get you here in time for a chowder lunch and an afternoon on the sand – digging clams or watching for orcas, bicycling in Fort Stevens State Park or seeking the perfect painting for your home. We relish living here. We envy anyone who gets the chance to see our coast afresh, whether by cruise ship or family car. This is a place that will open your eyes, wake up your senses and remind you what the Pacific Northwest is really all about.
Steve Forrester
Publisher Our Coast magazine
JON NORMANDIN PHOTO
our coast
Number 3 • 2014 • www.discoverourcoast.com
inside:
plus, feature stories by these four Northwest travel writers
12 The Riverwalk 22 The Ship Report 24 Flying kites on our coast 28 KMUN 91.9 FM 32 Local wildlife 46 Filmmaking on our coast 60 Small town theater 64 Scandinavian heritage 68 Razor clams 101 70 Historic architecture 74 Ecola State Park A magical path in Astoria
Covering cargo ships in the Columbia
Surfing our coast Dancing with the ocean BY CASSANDRA PROFITA Oregon Public Broadcasting environmental blogger
PAGE 8
How to use the wind to unwind
Eccectric throwback radio
Where to spot the fauna on our coast
The art scene Thriving like never before BY DWIGHT CASWELL Freelance photographer and writer who lives in Astoria
PAGE 16
Movies shot in the Columbia-Pacific
The joys of the community stage
Top chefs. Great food. Dining on our coast BY MJ CODY Editor of “Wild in the City”
Celebrating our region’s history
PAGE 38
Information and how to dig
Discovery Trail Walk the path of adventure
Period buildings on our coast
BY MATT WINTERS Editor of the Chinook Observer in Long Beach, Washington
An explorer’s paradise
PAGE 50
+ regional maps and directories Index of advertisers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Area Maps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Our Coast Oregon Business Directories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Visitor Information Resources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 PUBLISHER STEVE FORRESTER DESIGN & LAYOUT JOHN D. BRUIJN EDITOR REBECCA SEDLAK ADVERTISING DIRECTOR BETTY SMITH
PHOTOGRAPHERS ALEX PAJUNAS DAMIAN MULINIX CONTRIBUTING WRITERS BRAD BULCHUNOS DAVID CAMPICHE STEVE FORRESTER JOHN GOODENBERGER CHELSEA GORROW
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS KATE GIESE DAN HAAG LYNETTE RAE McADAMS LOUIE OPATZ TED SHORACK COVER PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS
VISIT OUR MOBILE WEBSITE: Whatever the device, visitors can tap into the interactive tools of our award-winning website to ensure they have a great stay.
discoverourcoast.com Our Coast is published annually by The Daily Astorian and Chinook Observer The Daily Astorian: 800-781-3211 • Chinook Observer: 800-643-3703 www.dailyastorian.com • www.chinookobserver.com EO Media Group All contents copyrighted © 2014 Our Coast
Surfing our coast Story by CASSANDRA PROFITA • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
Surfing on the Columbia-Pacific coast is not something you can pick up in a weekend. It’s complicated, uncomfortable and downright dangerous at times. The water is frigid and riddled with riptides. More often than not, the weather is blustery and blowing rain in your face. The waves are fierce and uncompromising. They’ll toss you like a rag doll, and roll right on by. They’ll take every morsel of strength you can muster and send you, limp and defeated, right back to shore where you started. But when you catch one – if you can – it’s a helluva ride. It’s dancing with the ocean. The sea, swelling and breaking over sandbars, grabs you by your feet. And you’d better grab it back. Once you feel that surge underfoot, it’s your move. Do it right, and you can interlace yourself with this immense force of nature. Yes, it’s stronger than you. Yes, it’s bigger than you.
But for a few breathtaking moments you can embrace it, move with it and tap its power. For Seaside surf instructor Lexie Hallahan, riding a wave is a spiritual connection – as well as an escape from stress on land. “For me it’s like my solace,” she says. “It replenishes me and connects me with part of this bigger divine thing that’s going on. Here’s this huge body of water that you have no control over. All you can do is build your confidence and put yourself out there. It’s really empowering. I feel so close to nature. So in awe.” Nine years ago, Hallahan started Northwest Women’s Surf Camps to build a new kind of community on the water. At that point, she’d been surfing on the Oregon Coast and working at Cleanline Surf Shop in Seaside for a decade. “I noticed there were very few women who were pursuing the sport,” she says. “When they’d come in with their boyfriends, I’d ask: ‘How come you’re not going out?’ And they’d say it’s too cold or too hard.”
Hallahan doesn’t dispute that surfing is tough. She watched as people bought equipment at Cleanline because they wanted to learn. Within a year, she says, most were selling it back. “I think of surfing as probably one of the most challenging sports you can try to learn,” she says. “A lot of people go out and buy the equipment and then get into the water and realize, ‘Oh my God, it’s so much harder than I thought.’” And there are other hurdles to overcome even if you do learn to catch a wave. For example: How do you know when it’s a good time to go surfing? How do you avoid getting caught in a riptide and trapped in a cluster of rocks? How do you find your place among other surfers laying claim to the waves? Knowing surf etiquette is just as important as knowing the ocean, Hallahan says. But it can be a little harder to learn. “Surfers aren’t big about talking about the etiquette,” says Hallahan. “But if you screw up, they’re really good about telling you.” Longtime surfers on our coast have a kind of tribal culture, she says.
Yes, it’s stronger than you. Yes, it’s bigger than you. But for a few breathtaking moments you are able to embrace it, move with it and tap its power. They all know each other, give each other nicknames. And they’re protective of their most sacred turf – er, surf. “There are a lot of things people do when they’re going out with their boards that they don’t recognize are like a big yellow sign, ‘This person isn’t from here,’” says Hallahan. “Wave etiquette, if they’re not practicing it, can cue off the locals to realize whether they’re welcome or not.” Hallahan says there can be “a competitive, territorial male culture” on the water. “I tell my students, ‘Let’s not be like that,’” she says. “Let’s connect. Let’s find a way to bring our feminine qualities to the water and make it a better place out there. Let’s make it less hostile and more of a community.” Longtime surfers on the coast say they feel like there’s a lot at stake when newcomers join their ranks.
Waves may seem infinite, but great surf is actually quite finite. They say there simply isn’t room for everyone to surf the best waves. If you’re a good surfer but you’re not local, Hallahan says, you need to show a lot of respect to the locals. “Take yourself down the totem pole,” she says. “It’s about being patient.” But if you’re a kook like me (i.e., a beginner), here’s the thing: You don’t need the best waves to feel the awesome force of the ocean under your feet. You don’t need to drop into clean-curling crests or ride through picturesque tubes. The white water lapping at the beach is surprisingly strong, and there’s enough of that to go around at places like Indian Beach and Short Sand Beach. You will, however, need a thick, rubbery wetsuit and a fair amount of time to wriggle in and out of it. Cassandra Profita is the environmental blogger for Oregon Public Broadcasting. Her work can be read at: ecotrope.opb.org She is a former environmental reporter for The Daily Astorian.
Surf shops & more Seaside Surf Shop 1116 S. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside www.seasidesurfshop.com
Cleanline Surf Shop 60 N. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside 503-738-7888 171 Sunset Blvd., Cannon Beach 503-436-9726 www.cleanlinesurf.com
Cannon Beach Surf Shop 1088 S. Hemlock, Cannon Beach 503-436-0475 www.cannonbeachsurf.com
Skookum Surf Co. 1220 48th Place, Seaview, Washington 360-301-2233 http://skookumsurf.com
Northwest Women’s Surf Camps www.nwwomenssurfcamps.com Lexie Hallahan, a former manager at Cleanline Surf Shop, offers a supportive introduction to surfing for women, both through events and scheduled lessons. She can be contacted at 503-440-5782 or surfcamps@freedomnw.com
10 • Our Coast 2014
When to surf Prime surfing conditions on our coast – including reliable sunshine and beginner-friendly waves – span from mid-June to mid-September. Some locals surf year-round; winter can bring huge waves to the coast – along with cold temperatures and plenty of rain.
Where to surf Local spots include: Waikiki Beach Nestled in a cove in Cape Disappointment State Park in Ilwaco, Washington, Waikiki Beach offers a view of the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, excellent storm-watching and great waves for surfers.
The South Jetty Waves can get big as they get in close to the Columbia River South Jetty in Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton.
The Cove Located at the south end of Seaside, the Cove is sheltered from south winds by Tillamook Head, so it can get some incredible midwinter waves. One of the best breaks on the Oregon Coast, the Cove is known for its rocky shore, intermediate-to-advanced waves, and fierce protection by local surfers.
Indian Beach Located a short walk from a parking lot in Ecola State Park, just north of Cannon Beach, the sands of Indian Beach are popular with surfers, kite flyers, beach goers and tide pool explorers.
Short Sand Beach Sandwiched between Cape Falcon to the north and Neahkahnie Mountain to the south, Short Sand Beach in Oswald West State Park, just north of Manzanita, is sheltered a little from heavy winds and is a favorite among surfers.
Northwest Women’s Surf Camps For Seaside surf instructor Lexie Hallahan, riding a wave is a spiritual connection. Nine years ago she started NWSC to build a new kind of community on the water. Photos by CASSANDRA PROFITA
Lexie Hallahan center, teaches a surf class on Short Sand Beach north of Manzanita.
Hallahan, center, draws a map of the surf in the sand at Short Sand Beach.
EMPOWERMENT, CONNECTION AND TRANSFORMATION! 2014 EVENTS & GROUP LESSONS AT WWW.NWWOMENSSURFCAMPS.COM DIRECTOR LEXIE HALLAHAN • SURFCAMPS@NWWOMENSSURFCAMPS.COM PHONE: (503) 440-5782 Hallahan, right, shows how surfers protect their heads after falling off their boards.
“ Th e N W ’s Origin a l S urf S h o p” ES T. 19 8 0
Hallahan, right, helps a surfing student carry her board into the water.
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Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 11
the magic in astoria is on the
RIVERWALK
W
Story by CHELSEA GORROW • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
Whether you’re looking for an up-close view of the Astoria Bridge, a tour of the Columbia River Maritime Museum, or just a leisurely stroll through town, perhaps with children or dogs, the Astoria Riverwalk will take you anywhere you want to go. From Youngs Bay to the Alderbrook neighborhood, the Riverwalk is the Yellow Brick Road of Astoria. It’s what makes the city magical, says City Manager Paul Benoit. “The Riverwalk hugs the bank of the river for about five miles,” Benoit said. “The magic of Astoria is on the Riverwalk. And the river is spectacular. There’s just nothing like it.”
From the beginning The Astoria Riverwalk was born from the former Burlington Northern Railroad. When the 12 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
company left the area, abandoning the tracks was its only option, which left open the possibility of those tracks being divided into tiny chunks and distributed among a variety of property owners. But the city of Astoria found a solution – the federal Rails to Trails program, which allows tracks to be converted into recreational trails. And that’s just what the city did in the 1980s. “Fortunately, the Burlington Northern Railroad was built back in the 1890s when Astoria was a real industrial town, and railroads are only built on flat land, and the only flat land in Astoria hugs the river,” Benoit explained. The placement of the railroad helped preserve the Riverwalk for today’s use. But for Astoria Mayor Willis Van Dusen, the story of the Riverwalk goes back much further. “The history of our Riverwalk started several
thousand years ago,” Van Dusen said. “And I am serious when I say that because the true reason our Riverwalk is so beautiful is because of the Columbia River. We have the most beautiful river in the world right in front of us. So by putting a Riverwalk next to it, it makes the Riverwalk special. It’s the river that’s special.” The Astoria Riverwalk began to take shape in the form you see today when students from the University of Oregon’s school of architecture came to Astoria for one term. The students’ purpose was to create architectural drawings for a public pier, two blocks long, from 10th Street to 12th Street. The problem with the pier, however, was that the city could not afford the $7 million project. “That’s where the idea of the yellow brick road came from, doing small projects along the way,” Van Dusen said.
Growth Slowly but surely, the Astoria Riverwalk has grown and been enhanced in pieces throughout the years. It now is a solid continuous path that stretches the length of town. Benoit has led that project as city manager and earlier when he served in his former role of community development director. “Had the Burlington Northern, who weren’t bringing trains to Astoria anymore, abandoned the line, it would have been broken up into probably 500 different pieces,” Benoit said. “Every property owner along the river would have gotten a little segment of the riverfront and it would have privatized it.” But through the National Trails Act, the federal government created an opportunity to do something in lieu of abandonment, which at the time was a railroad’s only mechanism to no longer own and operate a railroad, Benoit continued. The trail of the Riverwalk was created. Technically, Benoit said, it’s interim trail use. There have been instances when trails have converted back to rails, but that is unlikely for Astoria. “If 100 years from now, or 10 years from now, if there were economic reasons to bring a train back to this corridor, we in essence have protected it,” Benoit said. “We’ve held it; it’s still intact.” There is an option to be both rails and trails, a dual-use corridor if that were to occur. But in Astoria, the city has its own dual use – Old 300.
The Trolley Old 300 – the name of Astoria’s Riverfront Trolley – came to Astoria in the 1990s, where it underwent restoration work. A barn on the west end of town houses the vehicle. It costs $1 to ride the trolley through town. Built in 1913, then retired, neglected and restored, the trolley is a popular attraction for visitors and residents alike. “When we acquired Old 300 it was in Gales Creek, Oregon, on a large farm. And the trolley went through the trees, and just around the cow pasture. And it was fun,” Van Dusen said. “But you take that same trolley and go right next to the Columbia River, that’s what makes the trolley route, that’s what makes the Riverwalk. It is this spectacular river.”
From Youngs Bay to the Alderbrook neighborhood, the Riverwalk is the Yellow Brick Road of Astoria.
What to see When you begin your journey on the Astoria Riverwalk from Smith Point, on Youngs Bay near the Best Western Lincoln Inn, you will be led through the Port of Astoria industrial area, under the Astoria Bridge, to the Maritime Memorial Park. From there, a walker, runner, bicycle rider, skateboarder, rollerblader, or anyone else will be led through a business area. You can stop at the viewing platform on Sixth Street. Then you reach the downtown, walking through the center of working areas, bordered with fish processing plants, restaurants and shops. “There are lots of interesting things on both sides, whether it’s fish processing, breweries, activities,” Benoit said. From there, the trail turns more natural, leading its passengers past the Columbia River Maritime Museum and out towards the Mill Pond development, Safeway and Pier 39. Then comes the Alderbrook Lagoon. “It’s more natural, and there’s more habitat when you go out that way, and we’ve done that intentionally,” Benoit said. “You go through a lot of different environments, so whether you’re a bird watcher, want quiet, want to visit shops, it’s all there for you. “The magic of Astoria really is on the Riverwalk.”
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Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 15
artscene the
From Cannon Beach to the Long Beach Peninsula, the art scene on our coast is thriving as never before
t
•
Story & Photos by DWIGHT CASWELL
he past decade has seen such an influx of artists, galleries and lovers of art that various city and county governments are beginning to see art as a significant economic driver. The beauty and history of the area inspires artists, and the Columbia-Pacific region is on its way to becoming the next art mecca. Of the hundreds of artists and craftspeople who now live, work and exhibit here, we’ve chosen four to suggest the breadth of talent and vision that has ignited this transformation.
darrenorange Portland art critic Richard Speer calls Darren Orange’s work, “far from pretty, yet somehow perversely brilliant.” The artist’s studio is a stone’s throw from the Columbia River. The fact that it is in a room on the second floor of what used to be an office building in downtown Astoria serves as a metaphor for the increasing significance of art in this coastal town. What goes on in that ex-office, however, is nothing that any previous tenant would recognize as business. Beneath the white ceiling with its track lighting, barely organized chaos reigns. A stool, two heaters and the floor are covered with drips and splashes of paint. Paint is present in cans, tubes and spray cans, but the only brush in sight is a house painting brush, and it appears to have never been used. Paintings with strong, dark lines and bold colors, heavily worked and textured, line the walls; three paintings sit on an easel that fills one end of the room. In front of the easel, Darren Orange works on a painting, spreading color with his gloved hands and a scrap of cardboard. Orange was an early émigré to Astoria, arriving 13 years ago, shortly after receiving a degree in fine arts from Western Washington University. “I moved here for the location,” he says. “Working class, working city. I liked its architecture and history. I stayed because of the people and what they have built here, enterprises that build community.” He also moved to Astoria because he found employment to pay the bills while becoming established as an artist, and because, at the time, studio space was relatively inexpensive and easy to find. As the art scene grows, though, that is changing. “Where I’m at completely informs me,” says Orange. “The area permeates my psyche. My paintings are straddling representation and abstraction, back and forth, but where I’m at always comes out in my work.” Orange believes in self-promotion and isn’t represented by a gallery. You can easily see his work, though, while having a beer at the Fort George Brewery in Astoria. His paintings hang on the walls, and the chalkboard beer lists are more transient examples of his art. Far left: Darren Orange has eliminated brushes from creating his work. Here he uses a shaped piece of cardboard.
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 17
ericwiegardt Since 1985, Wiegardt’s studio, in Ocean Park, Washington, has been something of a Mecca in itself. Wiegardt is one of America’s finest watercolorists, which he demonstrated in 2012 when the American Watercolor Society awarded him the Gold Medal of Honor at its annual international exhibition. As Wiegardt says, “It doesn’t get any better than that.” Wiegardt is not one of those artists who moved to the area. He was born and raised here, and after graduating from Chicago’s American Academy of Art, he returned home to establish his gallery and studio in the house his great-grandfather built in 1897. “It was a fun place to grow up as a kid, playing on the dunes, being outdoors, and I wanted the same small community experience for my kids,” he says. Wiegardt speaks of “early morning visions” when he worked in oystering as a young man. “I am visually impressed by the area. I like to do landscapes and marinescapes. I like the abstract designs of water. Living and working here gets under your skin. It’s deep down inside, and I have a drive to put that down on paper.” That drive, and the quality of his work, has not gone unappreciated. He has taught his “Secrets of Painting Loose” workshops internationally to more than 5,000 students (“I show them how to have fun again with their painting.”), and more than 4,000 of his original paintings have been collected privately and corporately. The most important thing for Eric Wiegardt, though, is simpler: “It’s been a good way to raise a family.” 18 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
susanbish Susan Bish intended to become an artist, studying art in college, but took a long hiatus from art to raise a family. During that hiatus, the family spent many vacations on the Oregon Coast, and in the mid-1970s they moved to Gearhart. There, the magic of the ocean, the landscape and the dramatic weather worked its magic, as it does for many. Bish returned to actively painting when a friend suggested she join the Cannon Beach Palette Puddlers, a women’s painting group. Another friend introduced Bish to Gearhart’s Trail’s End Art Association, “a wonderful facility, a little gem,” and she began taking classes to revive her skills. “Where we live is very beautiful,” Bish says. “It’s in my soul. The most fun is plein air painting, a different location every time, different weather conditions and light. It’s always changing.” Bish works in many mediums – watercolor, oils, acrylics, collage – and her work is mostly realistic. “I try to capture the whole scene,” she says. She is, though, “trying to be looser, more free and abstract,” an influence, no doubt, from Eric Wiegardt, whose classes she has taken. She has, however, resisted the suggestions of friends to become a professional. She exhibits in galleries and now teaches classes herself, but does not want to make a business out of art. “I do it,” says Susan Bish, “for the sheer joy of it.”
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 19
Darren Orange Darren posts his future exhibit schedule, and many examples of his work, online at www.darrenorange.com
Eric Wiegardt Eric’s paintings (and giclee prints, books and DVDs) are available at Wiegardt Studio Gallery, (2607 Bay Ave., Ocean Park, WA), RiverSea Gallery (1160 Commercial St., Astoria), the Shelburne Inn (4415 Pacific Way, Seaview, WA), and 42nd Street Cafe (4201 Pacific Hwy, Seaview, WA). For information on workshops, critiques of work, and current exhibitions visit http://ericwiegardt.com
Susan Bish
bonnygorsuch Bonny Gorsuch, an artist of found objects and “previously loved” fabrics, grew up in California’s Manhattan Beach. “I’ve always had the beach in my blood,” she says. So when she moved to Oregon, where she met her husband, painter Richard Gorsuch, it was natural that they move to Cannon Beach. “I love living here,” she says, “It makes me happy, so my work is happy. And it affects my color choice.” The proof is in her art, which is above all colorful and cheerful. “When you live somewhere you love, it affects your whole psyche,” Gorsuch continues. “There is a price to pay – not having big box stores, hospitals and airports – but it turns out that I don’t want all the stuff.” Gorsuch says, “I’ve always been creative, since I was a child, but I was raised in a home where it wasn’t noticed.” Her husband saw her talent, though, and she began to take it seriously in the mid-1980s. By the late 1990s she was selling her work on eBay; after selling more than 4,000 items, she moved to Etsy. Gorsuch began with three-dimensional assemblages of found objects (her first pieces were made with cedar shingles torn from the couple’s house when they replaced the roof). Later a friend requested a fabric collage for her wedding invitation, and Gorsuch became fascinated with fabric. Most of her art today is wearable. “Now I’m trying to get a look and a line,” she says, “but it’s difficult. Every one is one-of-a-kind.”
20 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Susan exhibits and teaches at Trail’s End Art Association (656 A St., Gearhart) (www.trailsendart.org) and Palette Puddlers shows in Cannon Beach. You can find more examples of her work at www.trailsendart.org/bish/ indexbish.html
Bonny Gorsuch Bonny’s work may usually be found at Romancing the Home (3350 U.S. Highway 101, Gearhart), and at the Cannon Beach Art Association (1064 S. Hemlock St.). She sells at outdoor sales during the summer, out of her home gallery, and online. You can find details at www.mybonny.com
Dwight Caswell is a writer and photographer who lives in Astoria. You can learn more about him and see his work at www.DwightCaswell.com
my coast Doug Wiese Doug Wiese and his mom, Mary, opened the first in a chain of Dooger's Seafood and Grill restaurants in downtown Seaside on Feb. 18, 1983. Known as “Dooger,” Doug did all the cooking while his mom prepped. Now Dooger’s includes locations in Seaside and Warrenton, along with a Dooger’s in Long Beach, Washington, owned by a separate franchise and former Dooger’s restaurant manager.
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Why do you enjoy living in Seaside? “I like the small-town atmosphere. I spent most of my life in small towns. I did spend four years in the Los Angeles area, and that probably cured me of the big city. But in general, I like being close to the water. We live near enough where we can hear it, and it’s just a soothing thing, knowing that the ocean is always there. And my wife’s here.” What do you find special about this place? “I like to breathe the air. We have the most awesome air, I think. When you go into the cities or whatever (in Clatsop County), you (can still) smell that coastal ocean air. It’s awesome. I just keep coming back to the ocean, but it’s just always nice to be able to look at the ocean. I like the people here.”
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Want to learn more about the cargo ships on the Columbia River?
The Ship
Report One local woman is the go-to source Story by TED SHORACK • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
S
Sometimes feeling close enough to touch from the Astoria Riverwalk, cargo ships pass the city with regularity on their way to Longview, Vancouver and Portland, or in the other direction, headed across the Pacific Ocean with logs, corn and wheat. It’s part of everyday life for Astoria-area residents. But the massive oceangoing vessels still stop some in their tracks as they glide along the shipping channel and pop up between buildings in downtown Astoria. It’s a considerable investment of her free time, but Joanne Rideout has loved reporting on these symbols of the global economy for The Ship Report, a program airing on Coast Community Radio stations weekday mornings for the past nine years. Podcasts of the program are posted on her website, shipreport.net, which lists the ships going inbound or outbound, their names and which ones are dropping anchor. Part of her interest, Rideout admits, is that she is a “maritime geek” and someone who grew up loving life on the water on the East Coast. “I was always sailing and windsurfing as a
kid, and I’ve just always loved the water,” Rideout says. “I have that saltwater-in-your-blood thing sailors talk about. I’m at my happiest when I’m on something that’s floating.” Rideout, who has been with the station for about 10 years, starting out as a volunteer and then as news reporter, is now general manager for the trio of local public radio stations that broadcast in Astoria, Warrenton and Tillamook. Her idea for The Ship Report came from listening to Thron Riggs – a programmer at the station and a Columbia River Bar Pilot – before she would go on to do the morning news. The details he shared of the cargo and people aboard the ships got her thinking. “I thought, ‘How cool,’” she says. “I started to tune into the fact that every day on this waterfront these ships would go by. It was totally fascinating.” Riggs caught her up to speed on mariner jargon and the basics. “That was really the beginning of The Ship Report,” Rideout says. “The first time I did it I was waiting for someone to
call the station and say, ‘What are you doing that for?’ The more I did it, the more people wanted to know more, and that’s how it expanded to what it is now.” The report started out as a minute and a half of information about ships coming and going, but turned into much more, including weather reports, interviews with mariners and features about maritime topics. In summer 2010, Rideout was invited to travel with a cargo ship named the CSL Acadian on its way down to San Francisco. For 10 days, she recorded interviews with the crew and sounds from ship life, which she now includes on her podcasts. The captain of the ship was the only one who spoke English. “It’s probably the coolest thing I’ve ever done,” Rideout says. The report is now very much a part of what the station does. There’s a community on Facebook that discusses the program. Rideout says she loves to answer questions and share information with people there.
The report started out as a minute and a half of information about ships coming and going, but turned into much more, including weather reports, interviews with mariners and features about maritime topics.
22 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
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Above: You can hear Joanne Rideout's Ship Report on Coast Community Radio at 8:48 a.m. each weekday.
Rideout has seen ship traffic picking back up now that the economy continues to recover. She says ship traffic to some degree is an economic indicator. In 2008, as housing markets dropped and the country went into a recession, Rideout says there were some days when no ships were going by. “That’s very rare. That was pretty scary.” Rideout would like to write some books about her experiences that would allow her to include the enormous amount of details she’s gathered in interviews and research in her years of work for The Ship Report. “I’ve learned so much, and there’s only so much of it I’ve been able to share on The Ship Report,” she says. Although her job as general manager is demanding, Rideout still finds the time at home to sit down at her computer in the evening for a couple hours to do the research. “I want to keep doing The Ship Report as long as people want it,” Rideout says. “I still love it after all this time. It’s still fun.”
Check it out yourself: www.shipreport.net Hear it on the radio 8:48 a.m. weekdays: KMUN 91.9 FM • KTCB 89.5 FM • KCPB 90.9 FM
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soaring ASPIRATIONS
How to use wind to unwind without losing your mind: Flying kites on our coast
t
• Story by BRAD BOLCHUNOS • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
The notion “go fly a kite” may sound akin to “go jump in a lake” or “get lost.” Instead, consider it an invitation to dance. Kite flying is dancing to the music of wind. Amid the temperamental orchestra of the Oregon and Washington coasts, flying a kite can leave you tangled or offer a beautiful way to unwind. A few tips may help you find the beat and move your feet without losing your mind. What’s on the line? Your spirits, soaring skyward.
Feel the music
Generally, most of us avoid wind. Running hot and cold and sometimes loud, wind messes our hair, dries our lips, shoves rain sideways and pelts our faces with sand. Wind makes us edgy. Raymond Chandler described how certain winds “curl your hair and make your nerves jump and your skin itch,” and in which “meek little wives feel the edge of the carving knife and study their husbands’ necks. Anything can happen.” But fresh air along the spacious ballroom floor of Columbia-Pacific beaches will empower you to lead the dance. Steer clear of storms, of course, but learn to embrace wind. You need it. Without wind – running backward, flailing your arms as you try to coax your kite to lift – you’ll look like you’re imitating a deeply confused orangutan. Gauge the wind. Toss a handful of grass or 24 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
sand into the air. The more it descends along the beach at an angle, rather than straight down, the higher the wind speed.
Choose your partner Before you take the hand of someone to join you for a Lindy Hop competition, learn how to waltz. A common pitfall for beginning kite-flyers is selecting a kite unsuitable for conditions, says Will Meyer, a Gearhart native and operations manager of the 39-year-old Once Upon A Breeze kite store in Cannon Beach. Colorful parafoils or box kites captivate us, but strong winds and experience are needed to sail these kinds of ships. Meyer calls them “pieces of art in the sky.” Two-line kites are engaging and fairly straightforward to learn to fly. But on the Beaufort wind force scale of zero to six, you need at least a three – roughly equivalent to 8 mph or more, when leaves and small twigs would be in motion – to avoid frustration with stunt kites. A little research never hurts, and people at kite stores are happy to answer questions. The American Kitefliers Association (aka, the AKA) presents abundant information online. Delta or triangular-shaped kites offer a good bet for beginners, with stability and versatility in light-to-moderate wind. Compared to a cheaper plastic kite, a $20 ripstop nylon kite holds its
value exponentially more because of its durability, Meyer says.
Shuffle, hop, step Start with your back to the wind. For a singleline kite, hold the kite by the bridle point – where the bridle lines (the lines attaching directly to the frame of the kite) meet the flying line (which you hold to control the kite in flight). Release it slowly, letting the wind carry the kite skyward. For dual-line kites, unfurl and check the length of the lines first. In light winds, a helper can assist in launching the kite as you pull the handles back and down to your sides to bring the kite higher. Be sure to check behind you for obstructions before stepping backwards – another common pitfall to avoid. With a little practice, you will see how you can influence the flow of the kite in the sky by the way you move. Search for thermals. Experiment with flight patterns. Allow yourself to remember the fun you had flying kites as a child, and reflect on the soaring aspirations of people before you who turned their faces to the sky and kissed the realm of birds. Why go fly a kite? You may as well ask yourself why dance. Few things match the way that kite-flying lifts your chin and your mood. Flying a kite is one of the best ways to get lost, and, in the process, to find yourself.
Building on the enthusiasm The most common shape may be a simple diamond, but the world of the kite is multifaceted. From origins in China before written history to their role as a precursor to the airplane, kites have been used for signaling over vast distances, fishing, measuring, exploring the atmosphere and providing traction and lift in thousands of operations, notes David Pelham, author of “Kites.” They figure prominently in experiments by Benjamin Franklin, Alexander Graham Bell and the Wright Brothers, to name but a few of the most famous. Flying a kite conjures fellowship with this history, and building your own kite takes the connection further. It also offers something to try if the weather outside is stormy. As with buying and flying a kite, experts advise starting relatively simply when building. Online searches can reveal plans for kites requiring little more than sewing thread and a standard sheet of paper or even a cocktail napkin. Slightly more advanced models use sticks or dowel rods for spars. A fair amount of expertise in knot-tying and sewing – as well as access to certain fabrics and components from kite specialty stores – is required for the stunt kites. “Flying a stunt kite is not difficult,” notes Wolfgang Schimmelpfennig, author of “Making & Flying Stunt Kites & OneLiners.” “With the technique of steering quickly mastered, you’ll soon be performing magical flight patterns in the sky. The enjoyment is that much greater if the kite is one you designed and built yourself.”
World Kite Museum The only American museum dedicated exclusively to telling the story of kites, the World Kite Museum has a collection of more than 1,500 kites from 26 countries. Stop by to learn about kites used for entertainment, industry and science – and to build your own. 303 Sid Snyder Drive Long Beach, Washington 360-642-4020 www.worldkitemuseum.com
Washington State International Kite Festival See kites fill the sky at this week-long kite celebration and competition held in August every year. Aug. 18 to 24, 2014 Long Beach Peninsula, Washington kitefestival.com/kite-festival
Brad Bolchunos, a former reporter for The Daily Astorian, now lives in Portland but prefers to fly kites on the North Oregon Coast.
Our Coast 2014:OC 2014
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volunteer • watch • participate • enjoy! Windless Kite Festival...Martin Luther King Jr. Weekend .......................Jan 18-19, 2014 Asian New Year Celebration...2nd New Moon after Winter Solstice...........Feb 1-2, 2014 Loyalty Days...weekend of the 1st Sunday in May .......................................May 3-4, 2014 Summerfest..............................................................................weekends, all summer long Columbia-Pacific Farmers Market .......................................Fridays, 4-7 pm, Jun - Sept Beach to Chowder Walk/Run...tide-dependent...........................................Jun 14, 2014 Doggie Olympic Games ...........................................................................Jun 27-28 2014 Sandsations...tide-dependent ....................................................................Jul 16-20, 2014 Long Beach Rodeo...Iast weekend in July .................................................Jul 26-27, 2014 Jake the Alligator Man’s Birthday...1st Fri/Sat in August........................Aug 1-2, 2014 WA State Int’l Kite Festival...3rd full week of August ...........................Aug 18-24, 2014 Discovery Trail Half Marathon...................................................................Sept 13, 2014 One Sky, One World Kite Fly...2nd full weekend of October....................Oct 11-12, 2014 Holidays at the Beach...weekend following Thanksgiving...............Nov 28, 29, 30, 2014
Featuring: • Bold heroes and story characters on kites from Japan • Delicately painted Chinese silk kites • Kites that saved lives in WWII • Videos of various Asian kite fighting celebrations
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KMUN 91.9 FM
Unlike commercial stations, which are run by remote control and feature national voices-via-satellite, KMUN’s on-air voices are real people who live in the region they serve.
This station’s eccentric personality is a radio throwback Story by STEVE FORRESTER • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
W
hen some travelers approach our coast, they tune their car radios to 91.9 FM, which is KMUN. The listener-supported radio station is based in Astoria, and its signal reaches north into Pacific County, south to Tillamook County and eest to Longview, Washington. To say that KMUN’s programming is eclectic is understatement. The station is a gathering of enthusiasts who air their passions – through jazz, opera, bluegrass, country-western – as well as their social causes. Unlike commercial stations, which are run by remote control and feature national voicesvia-satellite, KMUN’s on-air voices are real people who live in the region they serve. 28 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
KMUN is a throwback to the era of radio that typified the 1950s and 1960s. Based in an old house in Astoria, the station fosters a level of eccentricity that mirrors the colorful personalities who inhabit this region.
There was Ed David, who in his 80s hosted the Sunday opera show. It was said that you could get all the way across the Astoria Bridge during one of Ed’s pauses. It has been called a wind-up radio station. Station Manager Joanne Rideout calls it the “best little radio station in the world.” A New York Times writer in 1988 said KMUN was a return to radio’s roots.
“Stuck in the Sixties” is a weekly show that’s emblematic of the station’s nostalgia. One of KMUN’s legion of alumni is Krist Novoselic, the bass guitarist of the fabled Seattle grunge band Nirvana. A resident of Grays River, Washington, Novoselic’s on-air persona was D.J. Kaino. Novoselic played only vinyl. The legend is that he changed the needles on the station’s turntables so as not to damage his albums. Theodore Bloomfield – a retired conductor of orchestras in Portland, Europe and Rochester, New York – hosted a weekly classical music show prior to his death in 1998. One of Bloomfield’s grander moments was a telephone interview with the legendary soprano Joan Sutherland in Australia.
Clockwise from top: Wayne Downing hosts "In the Mood" on KMUN Tuesday afternoons. The show features the music of the big band era. Tom Hartland, the development director at KMUN, climbs the narrow stairway toward his office inside the Tillicum House, which houses KMUN. Elizabeth Menetrey sorts through music CDs sent to KMUN with her dog, Daisy, filtering the good from the bad. Menetrey has been the program director at KMUN for 15 years.
There was Ed David, who in his 80s hosted the Sunday opera show. It was said that you could get all the way across the Astoria Bridge during one of Ed’s pauses. The biggest sound on local commercial radio stations is Country-Western, but it all sounds alike. If you want real country-western, KMUN’s Sunday afternoon show is like a trip to the Grand Old Opry.
Bobette Baze, who is a current anchor of that show, has an excellent ear for C&W’s potential as white soul music. I think it was the host John Pasma who delivered a great patter one Sunday afternoon. “We’ve finished the trucker portion of the show,” he said. “Now we’ll have the jilted lover section.” The station was started 30 years ago, when relatively few FM signals reached this market
because the Oregon Coast Range was in the way. Today, KMUN has competitors such as Oregon Public Broadcasting, and we live in the era of Internet and satellite radio. Even with those options, the station achieves its fundraising goals. In an age of way too much homogenization and anonymity, KMUN gives the Columbia-Pacific region a large measure of personality that is not afraid of idiosyncrasy. Give it a listen. Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 29
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Local Wildlife Where to spot the fauna on our coast
• Story by LOUIE OPATZ • Photos by NEAL MAINE
S
easide native and nature photographer Neal Maine has been tracking and shooting animals – with a camera, that is – in the Columbia-Pacific for decades, and he has a simple mantra. “If you’re a nature photographer, the idea is to always be ready,” Maine said. Maine knows the North Coast intimately, and he sat down with Our Coast to discuss where intrepid animal watchers can find some of the area’s most beautiful – and photogenic – animals.
Gray whales Gray whales are by far the most common whale species to pass by the Oregon and Washington coasts, and they do so twice a year: from mid-December through January, when they migrate toward warmer waters near Mexico, and again from late March to June, when they head back north to their feeding grounds. Generally speaking, the whales take a more leisurely route in the spring and summer, with some even sticking within a half-mile of the coast, giving visitors a chance to spot a gray whale. Early in the summer, head out to Fort Stevens State Park in Hammond and drive right out to the beach. Find a spot near the Peter Iredale shipwreck site, scamper up to the top of the bluff and keep your eyes peeled for a gray whale. Maine has also seen his share of whales at Ecola State Park, just north of Cannon Beach. For Ecola, Maine recommends a better zoom lens if you want that perfect wildlife photo. The Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center at Cape Disappointment State Park in Ilwaco, Washington, is a designated Whale Watching Spoken Here site. Volunteers are on hand to help you learn about and spot migrating whales twice a year: the week between Christmas and New Year’s and during the last week in March.
32 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Birds On the coast, birds are everywhere. But if you want the skinny on where to find that one particular bird that’ll make your coast visit complete, you need to know where to look. Shorebirds – oystercatchers, snipes, stilts, plovers and turnstones, among others – can be found across the coast. In the spring and fall, shorebirds can be spotted in Washington at Leadbetter Point, at the top of the Long Beach Peninsula near Willapa Bay, and the nearby Willapa Bay Wildlife Refuge. Fort Stevens also features plenty of shorebirds, as does Seaside Cove, at the base of Tillamook Head. Seaside Cove is a great place for oystercatchers and other shorebirds as well as eagles, according to Maine. The Astoria Riverwalk is also a place you can catch sight of birds such as harlequin ducks and herons. If seabirds are what you’re after, there are also plenty of coastal hot spots. Seabirds like gulls, brown pelicans and cormorants perch near numerous coastal shorelines, but the cliffs near Washington’s Cape Disappointment, one of the most arresting locales in the Columbia-Pacific, are a terrific place to see seabirds in a striking environment. Maine finds Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach to be “probably the No. 1 spot in the region” for photographing all types of birds: cormorants, puffins, ducks, bald eagles – all of which are “incredibly accessible, even with marginal equipment.” If you have more majestic birds of prey in your sights, the winter months can be a great time for spotting falcons, hawks, ospreys and eagles at Fort Stevens State Park and at Astoria’s Fort Clatsop, part of the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. One of Maine’s most memorable photo shoots took place at Fort Stevens “in the dead of winter,” when he was able to snap photos of six or seven snowy owls high up in the trees. Maine has spent countless hours waiting in the woods for passerine birds, also known as perching birds or songbirds, often in places where birds are “flitting through the vegetation.” To spot a perching bird, Maine recommends a trip to Oswald West State Park in Arch Cape. “It isn’t wildlife in a classic sense, but it’s got the old-growth forest,” Maine said. This old-growth forest is perfect for finding water dippers, winged swallows and other birds that congregate near wooded streams. Maine is incredibly patient in these situations, often waiting for the better part of a day. But Maine does know a good sign when he sees one. “If you find a nest, you know you got a chance,” he said.
Deer Year-round, but especially in the summer months, you can catch sight of deer all over the Columbia-Pacific. State parks are good places to go if you want to spot some yourself. In Astoria, you might see them in the woods, near the Astoria Column – or even downtown.
Left: A brown pelican on Clatsop Beach.
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 33
Elk Turn around from your picturesque view of the ocean at Fort Stevens and you can often spot herds of elk – one of the reasons that the state park is a prime place to animal watch. “You look one way: marshes. The other way: ocean,” said Maine, who spotted an elk herd with five or six bulls during a trip to Fort Stevens last summer. The elk found on the coast are usually Roosevelt elk, which were named after President Theodore Roosevelt, according to the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. Roosevelt elk inhabit the coastal forests and appreciate the coast’s mild winters. Another place to view elk is the Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area, a wildlife preserve near Jewell, located at the junction of Oregon State Highway 103 and Oregon State Highway 202 near the Nehalem River.
American black bears The Long Beach Peninsula – and the rest of Pacific County in Washington – is home to a number of black bears. The population is robust thanks to great swaths of densely forested land. These mostly solitary nocturnal creatures avoid human contact, but as habitats shrink, human-bear encounters become more common. Basic measures can prevent interactions: Avoid leaving food and garbage out, and carry bear spray when hiking in bear country. If you do encounter a bear, remain calm, but do not approach or provoke the bear. Usually clapping or yelling will scare off an approaching bear.
Sea lions Anyone who has strolled east down the Astoria Riverwalk toward the East End Mooring Basin knows how to find sea lions: follow their barking. A group of sea lions – known as a raft when in the water, a colony when on land and a harem when large groups of females are preparing to mate – can usually be found lounging on the piers of the basin. The east end of Astoria is the best coastal spot north of California to view Steller sea lions. It’s worth a visit, though don’t wear out your welcome. You don’t want the sea lions’ barking to change your opinion on these one-of-a-kind creatures. Left: Sea lions often congregate on a dock at the East End Mooring Basin in Astoria. — ALEX PAJUNAS PHOTO Facing page clockwise from top left: A pair of oyster catchers explore the tide pools during low tide at Haystack Rock. — ALEX PAJUNAS PHOTO Bald eagles on Clatsop Beach. An osprey works to build its nest. These birds of prey can be spotted in Warrenton, Fort Stevens State Park and Broadway Park in Seaside. The City of Seaside also has a live webcam of local ospreys, check it out at: www.cityofseaside.us/osprey-nest-camera A bull elk walks with a calf on Clatsop Beach. A blue heron tiptoes along a dock in the Skipanon River. — ALEX PAJUNAS PHOTO Next page: Snowy owls occasionally venture as far south as Fort Stevens State Park in the winter.
There’s more to Discover
Visit discoverourcoast.com for more information and photos about this story.
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Top chefs. Great food. Story by MJ CODY • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
What could be better than a visit to some of the best Columbia-Pacific restaurants featuring exceptional chefs who use locally sourced food? To be sure, these chefs deserve the accolades, but we rarely consider that there’s someone else helping to create that truly special dining experience. It can take two – or more.
Executive Chef Michael Lalewicz and Manager Nancy Gorshe of The Depot restaurant in Seaview, Washington.
The Depot Seaview, Washington Michael Lalewicz & Nancy Gorshe Nancy Gorshe is all smiles as she guides my sister, Sue, and me to our table. It is obvious this is someone who loves her job. Well, her life. “It never feels like work,” says Nancy – even after 10 years of sharing responsibilities in the awardwinning restaurant with her husband, executive chef Michael Lalewicz. “It works,” she says, “because we have the division: He’s not interested in the business end or the marketing and personal relations, and I can’t do what he does.” What he does is create fabulous food. 38 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
At the Chef’s Table, we ogle the Dungeness Crab Mac and racks of lamb from our close-up view of Michael, master of the grill, through the open window. For us, there’s escargot oysters – the garlicky, melt-in-your-mouth morsels still sizzling in melted butter – followed by the delectable Thai Calamari: wild calamari tossed in Thai peanut cilantro sauce and topped with crispy wontons. Next comes our caught-that-morning salmon sauced with locally foraged shiitake mushrooms and grass-fed filet mignon topped with umami sauce. We barely can face our pot de crème and flourless chocolate torte. Somehow, we manage. “Michael was an adventurous cook, and I
was a hobbyist foodie, so we enjoyed having dinner parties in our home,” says Nancy. After Michael’s success at Jimmy Mak’s (Portland’s famous jazz club) and the The Depot Shelburne 1208 38th Place Inn and a Seaview, Washington long health- 360-642-7880 care career depotrestaurantdining.com for Nancy, Hours: Open at 5 p.m. nightly. the couple decided to open their own restaurant. “Here we are after all these years, having a dinner party every night!” says Nancy.
Firehouse Grill Seaside, Oregon Bob & Lori Breslauer
Bob and Lori Breslauer own Seaside's Firehouse Grill.
I’m savoring my flaky homemade biscuit and Potatoes Deluxe, a mélange of grilled potatoes, house-made sausage, mushrooms, pesto, spinach, jack cheese, and any-way-you-want-them eggs on top (poached perfect). The small café is filling up rapidly, and I offer to share my booth with a couple standing in line at the door. They decline. Instead, they prefer to wait for a seat at the counter. “So we can watch Bob,” the woman says. That’s how it is here at Seaside’s Firehouse Grill Firehouse Grill. Bob’s the celebrity, happy and friendly, busy as can be, 841 Broadway, sweating over the grill, center stage. At Seaside, Oregon 503-717-5502 just over 1.5 years old, the word is out Hours: 8 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. after the restaurant snagged a national Thursday to Monday; 8 a.m. to 1 mention in Urbanspoon’s 101 Great p.m. (breakfast only) Sunday. Breakfasts. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. “I’m happy that Bob still loves the frenzy of cooking,” says Lori Breslauer, who spent 23 years sharing the cooking chores with her husband at their Bainbridge Island, Washington, restaurant and bed & breakfast inn on Orcas Island before moving to Seaside. “I have no desire to be on the line anymore. I’m happy to run the business behind the scenes: the ordering and management. Off-hours I prepare the soups. I love the variety, and it’s nice here when it’s quiet. “After so many years in the business, this time we’re keeping it simple,” Lori says. A limited menu doesn’t mean a limited palate. This is simple food at its best, whether savory egg and biscuit dishes or house-ground burgers and fish tacos: down-home good, fresh, simply delicious.
Chef/Owner Lalewicz has “food angels singing in the kitchen” ~ NW Palate
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Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 39
Newmans at 988 and Fishes Sushi & Japanese Cuisine Cannon Beach, Oregon John & Sandy Newman John Newman embellishes the seared scallops with a flourish of sautéed mushrooms, prepares to perfection his to-die-for foie gras pasta with Oregon black truffles, and plates the lobster ravioli.
Newmans at 988 988 S. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, Oregon 503-436-1151 www.newmansat988.com Hours: 5:30 to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday from Oct. 16 to June 30; 5:30 to 9 p.m. daily from July 1 to Oct. 15. Reservations recommended.
Fishes Sushi & Japanese Cuisine 240 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, Oregon 503-436-8862 www.fishes-sushi.com Hours: Seasonal lunches at noon, and 5:30 p.m. to close.
Above: Chef John Newman, owner of Newmans at 988 and Fishes Sushi & Japanese Cuisine, teams with wife and general manager Sandy to keep the Cannon Beach restaurants running. Right: The tempura needles roll at Cannon Beach's Fishes Sushi & Japanese Cuisine includes crab, shrimp, salmon, avacado and is topped with spicy mayo. The roll is named for the rock formation next to Haystack Rock. 40 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
The appetizers arrive, hot off the grill, for my friends and me to swoon over and devour. There are Dungeness crab cakes too, one of the few of their kind that actually retain the delicate flavor of crab. A master chef nuanced in French and Italian cuisines, John has earned enough awards to sink a small dingy. Always community-minded, John is proud of lending a hand to Seaside High School students who placed first in the Oregon ProStart High School Culinary Championships. “John’s the star,” says Sandy Newman. “I married the business.” Sandy was a journalism major in college and knew little about food. When John was working nights, she began hostessing in a small family-owned restaurant near their home in the San Francisco Bay area. “I learned everything, from fronting the house to serving and catering. Everything I know about the business started there,” says Sandy, not thinking at the time where it might lead. Sandy has put her experience to good use. Their partnership has been ongoing for 10 years, and, as if they weren’t busy enough with their award-winning 988, they opened Fishes Sushi & Japanese Cuisine in the center of town. “The pressure, the intensity, the heat of the kitchen – I don’t know how he does it,” Sandy says. Funny: John doesn’t know how Sandy does it either.
Joe Garrison prepares a batch of buns to be baked at Blue Scorcher Bakery & Café.
Blue Scorcher Bakery & Café Astoria, Oregon Loren Cross, Sam Jones, Karmen Hughes, Brandon Sears and Tyrrel Trainor “One for all and all for one!” It’s an apt refrain for the Three Musketeers or this nine-member owner-worker collective whose artisan breads, pastries and handcrafted seasonal foods have set a high bar. Officially, the husband-and-wife team of Joe Garrison and Iris Sullivan Daire were the former owners, but it’s always been a cooperative enterprise featuring totally organic, local, sustainable food. “As a vegetarian restaurant, we do remarkable 42 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
things,” says Loren Cross, one of five rotating chefs at the café, who is chopping wild chanterelle mushrooms handpicked in the woods and delivered this morning. Loren isn’t kidding. The breads, pastries and desserts alone are enough to make one dizzy with desire. Then there are the hearty soups, daily specials and the always-interesting salads (the quinoa or arugula salads are favorites). The Provence Scramble this day (eggs, chanterelles, house-made pesto and jack cheese accompanied by fresh local greens) is pure pleasure. A tempeh reuben? You’ll be surprised how good it is. The menu is diverse and whimsical: How about the Poet’s Bowl (beans & rice) or the Published Poet’s Bowl (beans & rice and the works – salsa, cheddar cheese, roasted pumpkin seeds
and mixed greens)? It’s all about community. The collective strives to support each other in joyful work as well as support local farmers and foragers. The café also proBlue Scorcher vides a meeting place for Bakery & Café 1493 Duane St., Astoria, Oregon the locals. Service can be 503-338-7473 www.bluescorcher.com inconsistent, but hey, the at- Hours: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. mosphere is always cheerful and friendly, there’s a kid’s area, racks of magazines to peruse, and the food never fails. MJ Cody travels and writes. You can follow her at her Sleeping Around the Northwest website www.sleeparoundnw.com or at her blog mjcody.wordpress.com
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Other restaurant standouts Astoria, Oregon Albatross: Fresh, local and organic sandwiches, appetizers and salads, pre-Prohibition era cocktails, local beer and a stripped-down atmosphere by Chef Eric Bechard. 225 14th St., Astoria, 503-741-3091 Astoria Coffee House & Bistro: Baked goods, locally sourced cuisine, downtown hip. 243 11th St., 503-325-1787, www.astoriacoffeehouse.com Bridgewater Bistro: Seafood, steaks, tapas, cocktails in a dramatic waterfront setting, gluten-free friendly. 20 Basin St., 503-325-6777, www.bridgewaterbistro.com Clemente’s: Local, fresh seafood, Mediterranean flair, tasty fish and chips. 1198 Commercial St., 503-325-1067, www.clementesrestaurant.com Drina Daisy: Ethnic Bosnian. 915 Commercial St., 503-338-2912, www.drinadaisy.com
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Seaside / Gearhart, Oregon Maggie’s On the Prom: Fresh Northwest cuisine, fine dining, fantastic ocean view and a comfortable interior. 581 S. Promenade, Seaside, 503-738-6403, www.maggiesontheprom.com McKeown’s Restaurant & Bar: Oregon seafood, steaks and pastas, Irish pub, blocks from the beach. No. 1 Holladay Drive, Seaside, 503-738-5232, www.mckeownsrestaurant.com The Stand: Delicious Mexican food on the coast. 109 N. Holladay Drive, Seaside, 503-738-6592. Pacific Way Bakery & Café: Fresh flavors, creative sidedishes, Northwest ingredients. 601 Pacific Way, Gearhart, 503-738-0245, pacificwaybakery-cafe.com
Cannon Beach, Oregon EVOO: Locally sourced Northwest cuisine + wine & dine demonstration dinners. 188 S. Hemlock St., 503-436-8555, www.evoo.biz
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Stephanie Inn: Elegant prix fixe, four course meals, locally sourced. 2740 S. Pacific St., 503-436-2221, 800-633-3466, www.stephanie-inn.com The Irish Table: Locally sourced Northwest-Euorpean cuisine. 1235 S. Hemlock St., 503-436-0708, www.theirishtablerestaurant.com
Long Beach Peninsula, Washington Jimella’s & Nanci’s Seafood Market & Café: Bistro-cafe & market owned by the legendary queens of Northwest cuisine. 21712 Pacific Way, Ocean Park, 360-665-4847, jimellaandnancis.com Lost Roo: Aussie-style family, sports venue, great casual food. 1700 Pacific Ave., Long Beach, 360-642-4329, lostroo.com Pelicano Restaurant: Rotating seasonal menu, locally sourced, Mediterranean-inspired waterfront dining. 177 Howerton Way S.E. on the port boardwalk, Ilwaco, 360-642-4034, www.pelicanorestaurant.com Pickled Fish: Locally sourced small plates and cocktails atop Adrift Hotel, live music most evenings. 409 Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach, 360-642-2344, www.adrifthotel.com Serious Pizza: Fresh, organic, fabulous, at Cape Disappointment. 244 Robert Gray Drive, Ilwaco, 360-642-3060 Shelburne Inn Restaurant: Warm hospitality, Northwest bounty, seasonal menus, dining room, pub and outdoor seating, wine & micro-brews, live music. 4415 Pacific Highway 103, Seaview, 360-642-2442, www.theshelburneinn.com
Where to stay Astoria, Oregon Cannery Pier Hotel: Waterfront splendor, stunning views, bikes available. 10 Basin St., 888-325-4996, www.cannerypierhotel.com The Commodore Hotel: Spartan chic, downtown. 258 14th St., 503-325-4747, www.commodoreastoria.com Hotel Elliott: Historic luxury, downtown. 357 12th St., 877-378-1924, www.hotelelliott.com
Seaside / Gearhart, Oregon Gearhart Ocean Inn + Fitzgerald’s Cottages: Cozy beach-chic cottages, bikes to borrow. 67 N. Cottage Ave., Gearhart, 800-352-8034, distinctivebeachlodgings.com Inn of the Four Winds: Ocean view + fireplaces. 820 North Promenade, Seaside, 503-738-9524, www.innofthefourwinds.com
Cannon Beach, Oregon The Ocean Lodge: Oceanside beach charm, some ocean views, pet friendly. 2864 S. Pacific St., 888-777-4047, www.theoceanlodge.com Stephanie Inn: Oceanside luxury, some ocean views. 2740 S. Pacific St., 800-633-3466, www.stephanie-inn.com
Long Beach Peninsula, Washington Adrift Hotel & Spa: Spartan eco-chic, ocean views, bikes to borrow. 409 Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach, 800-561-2456, www.adrifthotel.com China Beach Retreat & Audubon Cottage: Divine seclusion on an estuary. 222 Robert Gray Drive, Ilwaco, 800-466-1896, chinabeachretreat.com
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Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 45
Filmmaking on our coast Story by DWIGHT CASWELL Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
Photos from left: The house used in the film “Short Circuit” is located at 197 Hume St. in Astoria; The opening scenes of “The Ring Two” were filmed at the Eighth Street park, located between Franklin and Grand avenues in Astoria; The Goonies House, today a private residence, draws fans from all over; John Jacob Astor Elementary School was a film location in 1990’s “Kindergarten Cop,” starring Arnold Schwarzenegger.
The local filmmaking scene is not just about ‘The Goonies.’ In fact, films have been made on our coast for more than a century. Only14 years after Edison made the first short movie, Astoria and the Columbia River were used as a film location. Can you guess the name of the film? You’re unlikely to hear that question in a trivia game. But if you had been in Astoria in 1908, you could have watched the filming of “The Fisherman’s Bride,” a story of romance and jealousy in which the U.S. Coast Guard saves the day. Since then, Clatsop County has appeared in films as diverse as “Benji the Hunted,” “Into the Wild” and “The Great Race.” Scenes from
46 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
1989’s “Come See the Paradise,” which followed the wartime romance of a volatile IrishAmerican man and a Japanese-American woman, were filmed in Astoria, and 2000’s “Eban and Charley” used Astoria and Seaside locations. The next blockbuster superhero movie is unlikely to be shot here, though. Quirky films that may develop a cult following have been more the rule. Movies such as “The Goonies,” for example. Thousands of fans (which is short for “fanatics”) visit the coast every year to see the locations used, especially the
Goonies house. A neighbor says of the fans, “The house is a shrine. They relate to this band of misfits who triumph over evil.” The weirdest thing? “It’s the dancing. Some of them do the (midriff-baring) truffle shuffle in front of the house. It’s not always pretty.” Arnold Schwarzenegger also paid a visit to film 1990’s “Kindergarten Cop,” starring in the unlikely role of an undercover cop winning the hearts of a bunch of little kids and their beautiful teacher (Penelope Ann Miller) while catching the bad guy.
“Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles III” went back to the Japan of 1603 (represented by a large faux fortress near Saddle Mountain, now, regrettably, gone) to recover a magic scepter and fight a warlord with weird martial arts before returning to the sewers of New York. The box office was numero uno the first week, but in the end it bombed. Another movie that premiered at number one, but received better reviews, was “Short Circuit,” starring Ally Sheedy. Largely filmed in Astoria, “Short Circuit” was a comedy about a military robot that becomes sentient after being struck by lighting, adopts the name Johnny Five (after the 1986 El DeBarge hit “Johnny Five”), escapes confinement and ventures out to explore its new life. The film gained enough of a following for a sequel to be made, and there has been talk of a third film ever since. The first “Free Willy” movie used Cannon Beach, Astoria and Warrenton locations; the second dropped Cannon Beach. “Free Willy” is about a troubled boy, Jesse, who befriends a captive orca and manages, with the help of newfound friends, to release the whale. “Free Willy 2” continues the tale with a complicated plot of family dysfunction and environmental damage in which Willy returns the favor and saves Jesse’s life. For most of our coast’s filmmaking history, unconventional films for the whole family have been the ones shot locally. Lately, however, there has been a turn toward the dark side. In 2005, “The Ring Two” continued its popular predecessor’s story of evil embodied in a young girl with unnatural powers. Not only was it filmed in Astoria, the writers decided the heroine (Naomi Watts) should take a job at the The Daily Astorian. In 2009 things got a lot darker, with the whole world in trouble. Scenes from the bleakly post-apocalyptic film “The Road,” starring Viggo Mortensen, were filmed at the Peter Iredale shipwreck in Fort Stevens State Park. Despite the Columbia-Pacific’s long history of filmmaking success, it seems that some movies don’t want to admit they were made here. Both “Short Circuit” and “Free Willy” filmed gorgeous West Coast sunsets and ran them backward, to give the appearance of an East Coast sunrise.
Thousands of fans visit our coast every year to see the locations used to film movies, especially the Goonies house.
Go on location These local spots have been captured on film – and you can visit them yourself.
“The Goonies” The Goonies house is located at 368 38th St., Astoria; today it is a private residence.
“Kindergarten Cop” Astoria Elementary, the school where Schwarzenegger teaches undercover, is located at 3550 Franklin Ave., Astoria. It’s actually called John Jacob Astor Elementary School, or Astor School, for short. The school picnic in the film was located at Ecola Point in Ecola State Park, just north of Cannon Beach.
“Free Willy” The Hammond Mooring Basin, where Jesse frees Willy, is located off Iredale Drive in Hammond.
“Short Circuit” The house used in the film is located at 197 Hume St., Astoria.
“Point Break” Indian Beach in Ecola State Park made a cameo appearance in this 1991 surfing flick starring Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze.
“The Road” The first beach in the film is the iconic Peter Iredale shipwreck, located off Peter Iredale Road in Fort Stevens State Park in Warrenton.
“The Ring Two” The Daily Astorian office where Rachel Keller (Naomi Watts) works in the film is actually the medical supply store located at 14th Street and Marine Drive. The farmers market she visits is now the site of Middle Village/Station Camp, part of the Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, next to St. Mary’s Catholic Church on U.S. Highway 101 in McGowan, Washington.
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 47
Oregon Film Museum TV too To learn about the films on the previous pages and others made in Oregon, visit the Oregon Film Museum, 732 Duane St. in Astoria. It’s housed in the former Clatsop County jail, which was used for the opening scenes of “The Goonies.” One of the main attractions is a film studio in which you can direct and star in your own film scene. For more info, visit www.oregonfilmmuseum.org
Movies aside, TV shows also have been known to use Clatsop County as a filming location.
“Getting Away Together” A travel reality series aired on PBS-member stations (including Oregon Public Broadcasting), filmed an episode in Cannon Beach in September 2013.
“Dexter”
Harrison Rule, left, 8, of Seattle, Wash., and his brother Thomas, 5, explore one of the sets inside the Oregon Film Museum. The green screen in the background helped give the scene the feel of filming inside an alpine lodge.
Dan Bartlett laughs after reciting a line from "The Goonies" inside the cab of a car customized for the set inside the Oregon Film Museum. A variety of scripts from famous movies filmed in Oregon are on hand for visitors to read from.
Showtime's popular drama, whose protagonist (Michael C. Hall) is a serial killer, also isn't a stranger to our coast. Scenes from the series finale were filmed in the Alderbrook neighborhood and the Port of Astoria in July 2013.
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On an overcast but brilliant day at the beach, a preschooler in Seaview boldly goes where Lewis and Clark went before. Discovery Trail on the Long Beach Peninsula traces the general route taken by the famous explorers after they reached their western destination in November 1805. Dipping and rising through hills and grassy dunes from Ilwaco through Seaview and north into Long Beach, the trail offers a premium, front-row ticket for awesome shows put on by the Pacific Ocean.
Walk the path of adventure:
DISCOVERY TRAIL Story by MATT WINTERS • Photos by DAMIAN MULINIX
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There is one curious bend in the Discovery Trail where you can emerge into a transformed reality. It is a kind of kink in time, a dislocation in the well-tamed rut of moment-to-moment existence. You’ll have to find it for yourself. The forested corridor leading there is edged by sweetwater marshes alive with dragonflies and kingfishers, with migrating trumpeter swans, their calm majesty making it easy to understand why kings of old used to claim them all as royal privilege. Trailside marshes are reminders of even older times, when people in northern Europe made sacrifices of bronze and iron and men in shallow waters that captured 50 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
the reflection of heaven. The old ones regarded wetlands as portals to the netherworld. Deposited within the mirrored waters with naïve innocence, gifts found their way to the eagerly awaiting dead — not unlike Christmas cards mailed by out-of-state grandchildren. Like many who live here in this realm of woods and waters, I feel the strongest connection to this place in winter. Wind and rain strip away the veneer of civilization, leaving the essential flesh and bones of the world. To quote a favorite book, “One exists, but it is somehow not in time. In a greater reality, behind the illusion we call time. One was always there. There is no past or future.”
Nineteenth-century photos show berserk surf boiling around ancient basalt columns, as if Stonehenge had marched down to play in the ocean.
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A blind corner just before reaching the ocean is the spot I have in mind. Possibly some of what I feel is simple anxiety that a speeding cyclist might be on a collision course with me and my dog, Duncan, like a comet dislodged from a benign orbit a million years ago and sent hurtling toward a dangerous rendezvous with unsuspecting Earth. But this tiny hesitancy at approaching the turn is overwhelmed with anticipation about exiting the hollow’s gloom into the soft, salt-colored light of the open ocean beach. The undulating bass roar of the Pacific that was muted by the forest begins to boom and vibrate behind your eyes, as if you threw open a concert-hall door and encountered the crescendo of a Mahler symphony in full-throated splendor. On a winter day, this is where the gale is first able to grab and shake you like an over-enthusiastic friend. The world leaps at your face, pouring into your soul. Like most of Discovery Trail, this particular enchanted place is newly created. Nineteenthcentury photos show berserk surf boiling around ancient basalt columns, as if Stonehenge had marched down to play in the ocean. Walking this path, we stride among the ghosts of Chinook Indian war canoes, of doomed tall ships, drowned sailors and shouting rescuers summoning stout horses. It was here where director >>
A portion of the Discovery Trail moves along and under the boardwalk in Long Beach. It’s a popular place to stroll during lunch breaks on a sunny day. Elevated above the dunes, the boardwalk is also an ideal spot to watch summer kites and Fourth of July fireworks.
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A runner approaches the final stretch of the Firecracker 5K race in Ilwaco, an annual event that utilizes part of Discovery Trail. No motor vehicles are allowed on the trail. Although care is still warranted — bicycles share the route with runners and walkers — the trail is a wonderfully safe experience to share with children and pets.
Sean Penn filmed beach scenes for “Into the Wild,” his movie about outdoor adventurer Christopher McCandless, whose spiritual quest was to end in Alaska. If we are a little aware, we know a century from now the ocean will have taken back this land. Maybe our own ghosts will walk amid the streaming kelp fronds and cavorting sea lions. On my office wall hangs the portrait of a sea captain, no relation or personal connection
except that on Feb. 22, 1904 he beached a three-masted schooner on the grains of sand somewhere beneath my footprints. He and his crew first clung to life for days by lashing themselves to the rigging after their cargo hold of railroad ties was flooded with seawater. Only the cook died, after “a huge comber struck him while he was taking his trick at the wheel.” Capt. Keegan recalled, “Believing that we couldn’t much longer stand the exposure I de-
termined to make a desperate risk, and by putting on all sail possible, to try to make either the mouth of the Columbia or work my way inside Cape Flattery. Not getting inside the Columbia River bar, I did the next best thing and went ashore on Long Beach. We owe our lives to the work of the lifesaving crew.” This is just one of hundreds such stories spanning the length of Discovery Trail. The heroes, victims and survivors will whisper to you … if you listen well enough.
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Use the trail to more quickly find a private stretch of sand and then take yourself down to the water’s edge, where Lewis and Clark each made separate victory laps in November 1805. It is here, dodging the icy water that will try to lap your ankles, where you may best be able to feel the true frisson of time travel between the early 21st and 19th centuries. Prepare to be shocked back to life, freed for a while from the comfortable fuzz of modernity. It is, perhaps, this desire for a shock, a private audience with fate, which brought Capt. Meriwether Lewis to this beach Nov. 15-17, 1805. Maybe even then nursing the spirit wounds that brought him to a premature death alone in a Tennessee inn only four years later, Lewis came to the ocean soon after arriving here at the expedition’s West Coast destination. Like too much of his life and death, Lewis’ sojourn on the Pacific is little understood. “The trip is undocumented, at least directly by Lewis; we know of his return to Station Camp from Clark and the others,” writes Dave Nicandri, emeritus director of the Washington State Historical Society. “Of all the gaps in his journaling, this may be the most egregious, given the import of the moment. But that gap is of a piece with his deportment since emerging out of the Rockies in late
September. What we know is that he ostensibly set out from Station Camp looking for EuroAmerican ships at or near the coast. “He would have known from reading Vancouver where fur traders had found anchorage, and had previously recorded their presence. His carving of his name certainly had overtones of being sovereignty related, though it was also part and parcel of a more prosaic tradition of the ‘Kilroy’ type.”
Prepare to be shocked back to life, freed for a while from the comfortable fuzz of modernity.
cated near “the anchorage,” the time-honored mooring basin for tall ships just inside the lip of safe Cape Disappointment. On his own trip farther up our beach that storm-torn November, Clark initialed both the one at the anchorage and another tree. This second one is commemorated with a bronze statue near Discovery Trail’s northern terminus in Long Beach.
H
Lewis probably didn’t go far north along the beach, turning back inland soon after passing beyond the rocky escarpments on the Peninsula’s south end. Sitting in the Shelburne Restaurant recently with my friend Jim Sayce, also of the state historical society, he speculated Lewis may have passed close by the space occupied by our table. If only we could share our oysters, beer and good wishes across the thin veil of time. Expedition members were big carvers of initials in trees; the one Nicandri mentions was lo-
How Lewis would be surprised and delighted to see American children learning to ride their bikes merrily pedaling along the beach he claimed for the USA. There is much for kids to see and do in the spirit of exploration, starting with encountering some of the creatures of the Pacific Northwest seashore and woods. My personal favorite: Red-legged frogs come in several colors, from dark brown to a burnished copper that looks newly minted, like something from a Mexican gift shop. Lively fellows that are almost supernaturally attuned to flee at the first vibration of an approaching predator, this native species is still abundant here in our home woods and trailside wetlands. Like their close cousins, the California redlegged frogs that Mark Twain immortalized in his tale from Calaveras County, ours deserve to be celebrated for their jumping.
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More trails to discover on our coast Discovery Trail on the Long Beach Peninsula is just one of many amazing paths to fun and adventure in the Columbia-Pacific region. Most are well-signed, but take a cell phone in case you need directions or want to take photos of spectacular views and wildlife. Insect repellant, drinking water and sturdy shoes are advisable. Here are some favorites:
IN CLATSOP COUNTY, OREGON:
IN PACIFIC COUNTY, WASHINGTON:
• Explore the Oregon coast on the 2.5-mile Clatsop Loop Trail at Ecola State Park.
• Leadbetter State Park on the far north end of the Long Beach Peninsula is laced with nature-rich trails. Turn left (east) at the northern-most parking lot for walks along the Willapa Bay shore, or right (west) to access remote ocean beaches and dunes where motor vehicles aren’t permitted most of the year. (As in other parks, leave mushrooms and berries for the wildlife. Be aware of vehicle parking fees.)
• The new interpretive Oregon Coast Trail’s 4-mile route over Tillamook Head is Lewis and Clark National Historical Park’s backbone. Hiking options vary from round trip adventures to shorter hikes originating from Ecola Point leading to Indian Beach or descend a steeper and more difficult trail to Crescent Beach. Tillamook Head is where Capt. William Clark and 12 members of the Corps of Discovery climbed over the rocky headland to view the whale that had reportedly washed ashore. • Fort Stevens State Park has a network of 6 miles of hiking trails through spruce and hemlock forests, wetlands, dunes and shore pine.
• Ocean to Bay Trail in Ocean Park is a pleasant pedestrian path linking the Pacific shoreline with Willapa Bay. On its east end, another short walk north along Sandridge Road will bring you to the Port of Peninsula with its picturesque oyster-processing facilities and Morehead County Park.
• Dedicated in November 2005, the Fort To Sea Trail leads 6.5-miles from Fort Clatsop to Sunset Beach, traveling through the homeland of the Clatsop Indians, the forests, coastal rivers and lakes and traversing the coastal dunes.
• Willapa National Wildlife Refuge, at 15,000 acres, offers miles of biologically rich shorelines. The refuge’s Long Island, accessible by kayak or other personal watercraft, includes the 0.75-mile Don Bonker Cedar Grove Trail that loops through giant trees nearly 1,000 years old.
• The 5-plus-mile Astoria River Walk follows the right-of-way of the old Astoria and Columbia River Railroad along the working waterfront of the West Coast’s oldest U.S. settlement. Popular with walkers, bicyclists and runners, it’s a perfect place to see sea lions and gargantuan ocean-going ships.
• Willapa Hills Trail is a 56-mile route between Chehalis and South Bend along the abandoned Northern Pacific Railway right-of-way. The portion within Pacific County offers gorgeous views of the pastoral Willapa River and Valley.
• The Saddle Mountain State Natural Area off Oregon Sunset Highway 26 includes a steep 2.5-mile trail to the summit. Known to Native Americans as Swallalahoost, it is the sacred origin mountain of the Chinookan peoples.
• Fort Columbia State Park is located just east of Chinook and the nearby Middle Village/Station Camp Unit of Lewis and Clark National Park. Both include extensive paths and trails. Hike into the old woods above Fort Columbia to encounter the wild side of the Pacific Northwest.
COUNTRY STORE Established 1885 Located in the heart of Ocean Park, Wa Open Daily 7 am to 8 pm
Jack’s Country Store invites you to come browse our store, thought to be the oldest, continuous retail establishment in Washington State. Our store is truely a one-of-a-kind shopping e[perience. )rom wood Ðoors, to our functional shop keeper’s ladders and rotary phones, our store takes you back in time. Our commitment to quality merchandise and fair pricing has not changed. Our shelves (and rafters) are Ïlled with over , different items. Don’t forget to look up when browsing our store, you might miss something unique! We are proud of our American-Made products, including Burt’s Bees, Lodge Cast Iron, Valley Forge Flags, local seafood, jams, jellies, and more. Our selection of retro toy and games are sure to bring out the kid in anyone. Don’t forget to pick up a copy of our store catalog 15 pages of hard to Ïnd items Doesn’t Ït in your suitcase" FedE[ *round shipping available.
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Let us do the driving!
PASSES AVAILABLE
AHAB OUTDOOR WARNING SYSTEM During a routine TEST of the system, the siren will play the Westminster Chimes followed by a voice message. Upon issuance of a TSUNAMI WARNING the siren will play a wail sound and a voice message will follow advising a tsunami warning has been issued.
for daily or monthly rides.
The AHAB outdoor warning system is tested on the first Monday of every month at noon.
Pacific County Emergency Management Agency 360-875-9340 • 360-642-9340 P0 Box 101 • 300 Memorial Drive South Bend, WA 98586 http://www.co.pacific.wa.us/pcema
Ride the Bus and See Pacific County with Us! • Pacific County Courthouse • Centennial Murals • Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center • Fine Museums • The Peninsula’s 28 miles of Beach • Many Fine Restaurants and Shops • The Canneries • Cranberry Bogs • State & County Parks Pacific Transit system routes pass directly by or within easy access of all the fun & historic places of interest . . . NO SERVICE ON THE FOLLOWING HOLIDAYS: • Memorial Day • 4th of July • Labor Day • Thanksgiving • Christmas • New Year’s Day
For information & schedules, please call
360-642-9418 • 360-875-9418 www.pacifictransit.org
Have you registered for the Pacific County Emergency Notification System? REGISTER TO RECEIVE EMERGENCY NOTIFICATIONS VIA CELLULAR PHONE, TEXT MESSAGE, EMAIL, AND/OR TDD OR UPDATE YOUR LANDLINE INFORMATION AT: http://www.co.pacific.wa.us/pcema/Notification.htm
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 59
Miss Macie's girls Rosie, left, played by Stephanie Rowe, and Lacie, played by Lora Nice, can't help but notice that Eric Olson, played by Nathan Jones, has been lifting fish all day in the Astor Street Opry Company's 29th season of "Shanghaied in Astoria" in summer 2013.
small town theater THE JOY OF
Story by KATE GIESE • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
Local theater in the Columbia-Pacific, by its very nature, has terrifically broad appeal and nourishes audiences and community members simultaneously. Classic works by Ibsen and Molière share the stage with plays penned by local playwrights. It’s all about sharing the magic of theater and great, great fun! Five of the community theaters that perform in the region are the focus here. They are: 60 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Coaster Theatre Playhouse Cannon Beach, Oregon
The charming rusticity of the Coaster Theatre Playhouse in Cannon Beach belies its early beginnings as a roller rink in the 1920s (which remained in business well into the 1950s). The now historic building was lovingly remodeled in 1972, becoming the 200-seat theater we see today. Nonlocal playgoers and players alike come to the Coaster. For Executive Director Patrick Lathrop this makes the Coaster more of a regional than a community theater. “Our actors aren’t paid professionals, but some have degrees in theater. We also pay our directors and designers, spending thousands of dollars on their hire,” he says.
Coaster Theatre P l a y h o u s e
2014 SEASON Jan 31 - Feb 22
A Doll’s House By Henrik Ibsen
Present Laughter By Noël Coward
May 9 - May 31
March 14 - April 19
The Boys Next Door By Tom Griffin
Into the Woods Music & Lyrics by Stephen Sondheim Book by James Lapine
Scrooge, played by Winston Laszlo, demonstrates his lack of Christmas cheer in the December 2012 production of "Scrooge: The Musical" at the Coaster Theatre in Cannon Beach.
Coaster Theatre 2014 Season The Coaster’s lineup of plays going into 2014 is thoughtful and ambitious: Jan. 31 to Feb. 22 – “A Doll’s House” by Henrik Ibsen. It was the very first theater piece to address women’s emancipation, according to Lathrop.
June 27 - Sep 5
May 9 to 31 – “The Boys Next Door” by Tom Griffin. Three mentally challenged men move into a neighborhood group home in this comedy. June 20 to Sept. 7 – “Into the Woods,” a musical. June 27 to Sept. 5 – “The 39 Steps” by Patick Barlow. The broad farce is adapted from the 1915 novel by John Buchan and the 1935 film by Alfred Hitchcock. Sept. 26 to Oct. 25 – “Twelfth Night,” a classic Shakespeare tale. Nov. 14 to Dec. 27 – “Beauty and the Beast” by Alan Menken. Based on the 1991 Disney film, the musical will make a lovely holiday show. Coaster Theatre, 108 N. Hemlock St., Cannon Beach, OR, 503-436-1242, www.coastertheatre.com
The 39 Steps By Patrick Barlow
Twelfth Night By William Shakespeare
March 14 to April 19 – “Present Laughter” by Noel Coward. A comedic look into the life of a successful and self-obsessed actor.
June 20 - Sep 7
Sept 26 - Oct 25
Disney’s
Nov 14 - Dec 27
Beauty and the Beast Music by Alan Menken Lyrics by Howard Ashman & Tim Rice Book by Linda Woolverton
Call or visit our website for inoformation about our special events and Coaster Kids Theatre Camps Tickets 503-436-1242 or coastertheatre.com 108 N Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 61
Peninsula Association of Performing Artists Ocean Park, Washington Based on the Long Beach Peninsula, the Peninsula Association of Performing Artists (PAPA) has brought quality musical theater to the region for seven seasons running. The lure of performing family classics, like the recent production of “The Wizard of Oz,” attracts talented local actors, dancers, singers and musicians as volunteers. PAPA’s first production was “Fiddler on the Roof,” with composer Barbara Poulshock directing. Lacking a playhouse, PAPA partnered with another company in the area for theater space – the Peninsula Players. Its first time out of the proverbial gate, fledgling PAPA had a hit on its hands. The group does one show – a musical – every year, now performing at Fort Columbia’s historic theater near Chinook, Washington. The facility has been restored to its 1930s incarnation, when servicemen enjoyed dances and movies there. Views of the Columbia River from the cliffs are downright gorgeous, too.
PAPA 2014 Season July to August – “Fiddler on the Roof” Fort Columbia State Park theater, U.S. Highway 101 two miles west of Astoria Bridge, Chinook, Washington. Peninsula Association of Performing Artists, P.O. Box 1458, Ocean Park, WA 98640, 360-665-3637, info@papatheater.org, http://papatheater.org
62 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Dorothy, played by Hope Bellinger, frets over having to part with her dog Toto, played by Daisy, after an encounter with the mean Miss Gulch in PAPA’s summer 2013 production of “The Wizard of Oz.”
The Astor Street Opry Company Astoria, Oregon The Astor Street Opry Company has found success with its long-running “Shanghaied in Astoria,” an original melodrama featuring music, dance and zany comedy with a regional and historical focus; 2014 marks the 30th annual performance. The melodrama’s success has spawned two additional musicals in the same vein: “The Real Lewis and Clark Story” and the company’s annual holiday offering, “Scrooged in Astoria.” Both play off the characters from “Shanghaied” – Finnish heroes and dastardly villains. The long run of “Shanghaied” has also allowed the company to do other productions: serious drama, simple comedies, mysteries, material by local authors and children’s theater. “These things help us stay alive,” says Judith Niland, ASOC supporter and publicist. “People need different challenges if the magic of community theater is to thrive.” Everyone at ASOC is a volunteer, although stipends are paid for contract work by musicians and costume designers.
into the region’s theater community, Carter had this to say. “We offer an alternative. Perhaps you want to see some new faces or maybe enjoy a comedy when heavy dramas seem to be all that’s out there.” Their performance season runs from August to July, so the rest of the 2014 season will be finalized in the spring.
Peninsula Players 2014 Season March 21 to April 6 – “Camelot” by Alan Jay Lerner and Frederick Loewe will be the spring musical. May 20 to June 8 – “Guilty Conscience,” a psychological thriller. Summer – Annual One-Act Festival River City Playhouse, 127 S.E. Lake St., Ilwaco, WA, 360-244-3517, players@peninsula-players.com, http://peninsula-players.com
ASOC 2014 Season Feb. 21 to March 9 – The Winter Children’s Theater production of “The Adventures of Beatrix Potter and her Friends,” written by Joseph Robinette. April 4 to 19 – “The Real Lewis and Clark Story (or How the Finns Discovered Astoria)” May 9 to 17 – New Works Northwest Coast production, an original fulllength play. June 20 to 29 – Teen production July 10 to Sept. 13 – “Shanghaied in Astoria” Oct. 10 to 25 – Fall play Dec. 5 to 21 - “Scrooged in Astoria” Astor Street Opry Company Playhouse, 129 W. Bond St., Astoria, OR, 503-325-6104, www.astorstreetoprycompany.com
Original Practice Shakespeare Festival Nehalem, Oregon The Original Practice Shakespeare Festival (OPS Fest) will delight fans of the bard. Since 2009 these actors have performed Shakespeare using “original practice” techniques faithful to the style of performance in Elizabethan England. All actors are paid professionals, except for four apprentices. “(Ours is) an improvisational, exciting style of performance that lends an immediacy and freshness to classic Shakespearean text,” says Artistic Director Brian Allard. While it’s true that OPS Fest mostly plays out of doors in parks in the Portland area, actors do come to Nehalem Bay State Park every year for an afternoon of “surf and verse.” In its 2014 season, audiences can look forward performances of ”Henry IV, Part 1” and “The Taming of the Shrew,” as well as a selection of past shows. Nehalem Bay State Park Amphitheater, picnic table area, before loop D, Nehalem Bay State Park, Necarney City Road/Gary Street, Nehalem, OR, 503-368-5943, www.opsfest.org
Peninsula Players Ilwaco, Washington The Peninsula Players came together about 10 years ago in response to an ad. Several had theater experience. They’ve come a long way since then, putting on five shows a year at their River City Playhouse in Ilwaco, Wash. “We’re the most active group on the Peninsula,” says Laurie Carter, who’s had nearly every job in theater since joining up. As to how the company fits
2 0 14
This year, at the ASOC Playhouse!
Astor Street Opry Com pany
Calendar of Activities 4th Annual REAL LEWIS & CLARK STORY
30th Season of SHANGHAIED IN ASTORIA
April 4-6, 11-12, & 18-19
2014 SHANGHAIED COSTUME BALL
(or How the Finns Discovered Astoria)
Friday & Saturday at 7p.m.; Sunday at 2p.m.
MAY SHOW & FUNDRAISER
July 10-Sept. 13
Thursday-Saturday at 7p.m.; Sunday 7/20, 8/17, 9/7 at 2p.m.
Featuring local authors
Featuring live music, along with the crowning of 2014’s Miss Vivian & Virginia
May 9-11 & 16-17
Saturday, Sept. 20 at 8 p.m.
Friday & Saturday at 7p.m.
June TEEN PRODUCTION 2014
Tickets on sale one hour before all shows! Reservations recommended
June 20-22, 27-29
Friday & Saturday at 7p.m.; Sunday at 2p.m.
129 W. BOND STREET, (UNIONTOWN) ASTORIA
www.astorstreetoprycompany.com
FOR MORE INFO CALL 503-325-6104
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 63
A CELEBRATION OF
Scandinavian heritage Story by LYNETTE RAE McADAMS • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS They came for all the usual reasons: For a chance at prosperity, the hope of a better life; for free land and the opportunity to work it; to escape famine, or war or political oppression; for jobs, for adventure, even for love. They came at first by steamship from the “old country,” and later, overland by rail. A few arrived with money, but the majority lined their pockets only with a dream. In the end, it wasn’t California’s gold that lured the Scandinavians to the western frontier. Instead, it was Oregon’s silver – salmon, that is – and tales of their colossal numbers at the mouth of the legendary Columbia River. “In 1850, there wasn’t a single Scandinavian living here, not even one,” says Liisa Penner, archivist for the Clatsop County Historical 64 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Society and one of many local residents of Finnish descent. But as word of Astoria’s burgeoning salmon-canning industry began to spread –
‘The largest wave arrived in the 1890s. And by the turn of the century, Scandinavians – most of them Finns – made up more than a third of Astoria’s population.’ along with a call for fishermen to support it – Swedes, Finns, Danes, Norwegians and Icelanders all flowed in swiftly. With them, they brought the skills and traditions of a hearty
people, long-wedded to the waters of their homelands; and eventually of course, they also brought their families. “My grandfather followed his brother here specifically because it was a town full of immigrants,” says Peter Gimre, third-generation owner of Gimre’s Shoes, Astoria’s oldest business (operating since 1892), and the longestrunning shoe store in the West. “He knew he’d be welcomed as a Norwegian and almost guaranteed to make a living.” Grandfather Gimre was right, obviously, and he wasn’t alone: “The largest wave arrived in the 1890s,” says Penner, “and by the turn of the century, Scandinavians – most of them Finns – made up more than a third of Astoria’s population.”
Dubbed “the Helsinki of the West,” this rough-and-tumble, downright bawdy town of trade morphed almost overnight into a thriving community of hard-working newcomers. Swedes and Norwegians established neighborhoods on the east end of town. Finns occupied most of Uniontown toward Astoria’s west end. To the city’s 54 saloons and 35 brothels, these groups added several churches and schools, along with traditional bakeries, public saunas (pronounce it “sow-na,” if you’re savvy), a Finnish meat market, multiple Finnish-language newspapers, doctors, drugstores, and the Union Fisherman’s Cooperative Packing Company – one of the most successful salmon canneries of its time. By 1910, neighborhood services were so well established, it was said that Scandinavians could conduct the entire business of the day in their native tongue, with never a need for English.
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To preserve their independent languages and customs (and to persist in a little long-held clannishness), political and social organizations such as Finnish and Swedish temperance societies sprang up to attract and support new members. Advocating for a more wholesome Astoria, they hosted meetings, concerts, theater performances and squeaky-clean picnics. Needless to say, the temperance didn’t exactly take. But in the long-run, such groups laid the foundation for a legacy of tradition that did; and even today – as seen in the very active lodges of the Danish Society, the Finnish Brotherhood, the Sons of Norway, and the Swedish VASA – you’ll be hard-pressed to find an Astorian who hasn’t remained loyal to their lefse. For more than 150 years, Astoria’s Scandinavian heritage has endured. The Saturday night sauna is still a family ritual. Local bakeries guard secret recipes for fresh cardamom braids, prune tarts and preserved cinnamon toast. Scandinavian antics in the Astor Street Opry Company’s “Shanghaied in Astoria” have been delighting audiences for 30 years. And until you’ve burned a hex, crowned a queen and confused your aebleskiver with your krumkake at the annual three-day-long Astoria Scandinavian Midsummer Festival, by local accounts, you haven’t really lived. But just what is it that makes this heritage persist? What’s carried it across oceans, a continent and the watery river of time? Ask Saara Matthews, owner of Astoria’s Finn Ware – the specialty shop where all things Scandinavian converge – and she’ll tell you straight out: “That would be sisu,” she says, a merry twinkle in her Finnish eyes. “It’s untranslatable really, but it’s a courage and spiritedness – that inner-strength that sees you through. Basically, it’s the very heart of who we are.”
Experience Scandinavia in the Columbia-Pacific Festivals 47th annual Astoria Scandinavian Midsummer Festival astoriascanfest.com Friday to Sunday, June 20-22, 2014 Clatsop County Fairgrounds, 92937 Walluski Loop, Astoria. Finnish American Folk Festival of Naselle finnam.naselle.net Friday to Sunday, July 25-27, 2014 (held biennially) Naselle School, junction of Hwy 4 and Hwy 401, Naselle, Washington. Both three-day festivals celebrate summer and the richness of Scandinavian heritage, with music, dancing, theater, cultural presentations, colorful costumes and heaps of traditional Nordic foods.
Downtown Astoria Finn Ware 1116 Commercial St., Astoria 503-325-5720 • finnware.com Located in historic downtown Astoria, this home and gift shop offers a variety of finely crafted Scandinavian imports including linens and tableware, sauna and bath supplies, specialty food and cooking items, clothing, jewelry, and a yearround Christmas section. “Shanghaied in Astoria” Astor Street Opry Company, 129 W. Bond St., Astoria 503-325-6104 • astorstreetoprycompany.com The 30th season of Astoria’s original, award-winning, Broadway-style musical melodrama runs July 10 to Sept. 13. Cheer for the heroes and throw popcorn at the villains while you take in this colorful presentation of some of Astoria’s more infamous history. Historic Uniontown Also known as Finntown, this Astoria district is located in the blocks surrounding the present-day end of the Astoria Bridge. In addition to several monuments, a small park, and numerous historically significant buildings, Uniontown is home to Suomi Hall (built by the Finnish Temperance Society), the old Finnish Meat Market (now Columbia River Coffee Roaster) and the Cannery Pier Hotel (original site of the Union Fisherman’s Cooperative Packing Company).
Bakeries Fisherman Jalmar Wilson holds his prized 82.5-pound Chinook salmon caught off Astoria, May 26, 1936. The Union Fishermen's Cooperative Packing Company sent the whopper packed in ice to President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Finnish immigrant Fred Karinen's print shop is as example of one of many lines of work Astoria's immigrants found outside of the traditional occupations of fishing, logging and farming. Cannery workers hand packed albacore in the 1940s. Photos courtesy of the Clatsop County Historical Society
66 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Danish Maid Bakery / 1132 Commercial St., Astoria / 503325-3657 / danishmaidbakery.com Home Baking Company / 2845 Marine Drive, Astoria / 503-325-4631 / astoriacinnamontoast.com Blue Scorcher Bakery & Cafe / 1493 Duane St., Astoria / 503-338-7473 / bluescorcher.com Tempting Scandinavian treats abound in Astoria’s bakeries. Source an authentic prune tart at the Danish Maid, stop by on Saturdays for fresh cardamom braids at the Blue Scorcher, and don’t miss out on a loaf of the Home Baking Co.’s famous Astoria Cinnamon Toast, made the same way, by the same family, since 1910.
Scandinavian words to live by Aebleskiver: A round Danish doughnut, prepared on a griddle, and served with a spoonful of jam and powdered sugar. Fika: The Swedish social institution of taking a coffee break – usually with colleagues, friends or family. Krumkake: Norwegian waffle cookies, baked flat, then rolled into cones and served plain or with whipped cream or other fillings. Lefse: A soft, flat, round Norwegian flatbread typically spread with butter, sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar, or rolled around fish or meat and cheese (like a tortilla). Lutefisk (Norwegian), Lutfisk (Swedish), or Ludfisk (Danish): A traditional Nordic dish, made from aged whitefish (usually cod) and lye. It is gelatinous in texture, with a pungent odor – most popular during the winter holiday season. Pulla: A slightly sweet Finnish roll or dessert bread flavored with crushed cardamom seeds, sometimes topped with raisins or almonds. Traditionally, the dough is braided and usually formed into a ring. Sauna: The Finnish bath or bathhouse – a small room designed to produce heat and steam for cleaning and refreshing the body. Smorgasbord: Originating in Sweden, this buffet-style meal offers an extensive variety of hot and cold hors d’oeuvres like smoked salmon, meats, cheeses and salads.
my coast Andrew Bornstein Andrew Bornstein is one of three brothers and co-owners of Bornstein Seafoods, founded in 1934 and stretching from Bellingham, Washington, to Brookings, Oregon. He serves as vice president of the Clatsop County Historical Society and is a member of the Port of Astoria Budget Committee.
Why do you enjoy living in Astoria? “I feel that at the mouth of the river, we are kind of the sum of everything that is Oregon. I’m through and through a Pacific Northwest type. I was raised in Bellingham. I went to California for college, and that made me sharply aware that I’m from the Pacific Northwest. I don’t mind the rain. I love the mountains. I love the water. It’s kind of the best of both worlds ... I’m in an 80-year-old family business, so we take a lot of pride in rallying around our family – both mine and my wife’s. It’s a great place to raise kids. Does living on the coast ever feel too small? Astoria versus other larger towns, I like living in a small town. I grew up in a medium-sized town, and I went to college in a big city. I lived in San Francisco before Astoria. I like knowing who your neighbors are and knowing who everyone is. There can be a want for privacy at times – nothing’s private in a small town – but you take the good with the bad, and it’s a lot more good than bad.
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Shellfish license fees The cost of a license varies depending on the time length of the license, whether it’s combined with another type of license, the state in question, and your age, residency and whether you qualify for disability or military status. In Oregon and Washington, prices range between $7 and $123.55
Where to buy a license Use a shovel or clam gun to dig up razor clams on our coast. Clam limits are set at the first 15 clams you dig per day.
Razor clams 101
Digging clams can be a fun coastal outing for locals and visitors alike – it’s easier than you think and offers a tasty reward Story by DAVID CAMPICHE • Photo by ALEX PAJUNAS
W
e dig razor clams under a rare golden sun – it’s an exercise or obsession not always reserved for good weather. The falling moon is faint but full. It is early morning, low tide. Later, if we are lucky, we will feast on eggs and razor clams. Even now we feel confident. Standing on the north end of the Long Beach Peninsula on the ocean side of Leadbetter State Park – or digging the Oregon beaches – one can imagine that springtime is well on its way. Clam beaches stretch north and south of the Columbia River. I am a Washington resident and tend to dig clams on the long narrow beach that defines the Long Beach Peninsula. Occasionally, I pick up an Oregon clam permit and dig clams on one of the beaches south of Astoria. Information on seasons, locations and licenses are conveniently posted on the respective websites of the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife and the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. The razor clams are deep in the sand and quick to escape these human beings with extraction equipment. Though a lifetime advocate of the clam shovel, today – arthritis flaring – I choose instead a clam gun. 68 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Angling at about 15 percent toward the ocean, I cut through the heavy gray sand, once and twice and rapidly. On the third pass – finger covering the gun’s half-inch air hole – I pull up a plump razor. It is about five inches in length and smells pleasantly of ocean Angling at about 15 and sand. Clam limits are set at 15 clams per person. percent toward the Except with a special perocean, I cut through the mit, you are not allowed to dig another person’s clams. heavy gray sand, once Holes are not always easy to discover. On windy and twice and rapidly. gray days when the surf is On the third pass – finup, the holes must be ger covering the gun’s stomped out. Stand and watch other diggers to get half-inch air hole – I the idea. If you ask a few, generally a kind citizen will pull up a plump razor. offer assistance. We are digging on a small spit of sand. It appears flat and plain, but the truth is of another nature. Camouflaged on the sand are smatterings of flotsam: clam shells, seaweed. Faded red claws and backs of Dungeness crab.
You can buy a license online through either the Oregon or Washington departments of fish and wildlife, via mail or fax, or in person at an ODFW or WDFW office or through a designated agent, such as a sporting goods store. For a list of offices and agents around the state – including the ones on our coast – look online. The Astoria ODFW office is located at 2001 Marine Drive, Room 120, 503-325-2462.
When you dig Oregon beaches from Tillamook Head to the South Jetty of the Columbia River are closed annually from July 15 to Sept. 30, and open the rest of the year. Razor clam seasons and dig days in Washington vary from beach to beach, October to May. Check online for specific dates.
Resources Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife wdfw.wa.gov/fishing/shellfish Washington Shellfish Rule Change Hotline: 1-866-880-5431
Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife www.dfw.state.or.us/resources/fishing Oregon Shellfish Safety Hotline: 503-986-4728 or 1-800-448-2474 Oregon Department of Agriculture's shellfish safety hotline is toll free and provides the most current information regarding shellfish safety closures.
Jack’s Country Store This Long Beach Peninsula shop maintains an excellent razor clam information website: www.razorclams.com
A seagull feather. A dead fish (picked apart by gulls). Sand dollars and drift logs and, much to my surprise, the carcass of a deer. That carcass has become a rendezvous spot for the raptors: seagulls and crows, raven, and the majestic eagle, all in descending order. All the smaller raptors clear for the eagles. The great birds gorge on the stringy red flesh, somewhat preserved by salt water. We clean our clams 30 minutes later, a chore not really as unpleasant as all the hype about dirty, smelly hands. I prefer to pour boiling water over my clams. This releases the shells. Don’t bathe the clams in hot water. Just release the shells. Then, immediately place the clams in cold water and remove the meat from the shell. Cleaning is a simple process but takes a bit of practice. You must remove the neck (siphon), mouth parts (gills and palps) and the digestive tract. Online videos like http://tinyurl.com /cleanthatclam or detailed cleaning
steps, such as on the WDFW website, can help. As we clean the clams, we discuss cooking preparations. A favorite is the flour-dip, egg-wash and panko or cracker roll. Messy yes, but once pan-fried, the clams delight locals and tourists alike; delights the hunter-gatherer in us all. My wife prefers chowder, but today we dip our clams in rice flour and sauté the tender flesh in a nonstick pan in small amounts of olive oil and minced garlic. There are no complaints. We whip up a Cajun mayo – jalapeño Tabasco, ketchup and Cajun spices – and eat the morsels as quickly as the clams fall onto warm plates, or pluck them from fire to mouth like those hungry vultures we met on the beach. Try as I might, I can’t imagine a better morning: sun-struck, framed by silver and white-capped surf, treasure-littered sands and those delectable razor clams, all for the price of two gallons of gasoline and a simple smile.
my coast Elaine Murdy Elaine Murdy directs the Cannon Beach History Center and Museum, located at 1387 S. Spruce St., just north of Haystack Hill State Park. This Seaside native travelled a roundabout path, moving away from home for a twoyear stint in the military, studying anthropology at Portland State University and landing a job at the historical society, where she’s been executive director since 2010.
Why do you enjoy living here? “I love the sense of community. I’m very active – I like to kayak and hike. I ride my bike on the beach. I like trails, trail running. This is a little bit of a smaller town, so it’s got that sense of camaraderie. Plus it’s just beautiful here. Even if it’s pouring down rain, I still love it.” What is it that you find special about this area? “This summer, I challenged myself to ride my bike or walk. For about a full month and a half, I didn’t drive my car at all. I would ride or walk from my house to work at the museum. As I would go through town, I would take different areas. “When I would go through and I would see what people do with a limited amount of space, it was really fun.”
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Although established in 1811 as John Jacob Astor’s fur trading post, settlers didn’t construct their homes in Astoria before the 1840s. Those houses built directly above the old fort were frequently inhabited by more well-to-do families, while working-class people constructed theirs on either end of the peninsula. Capt. George Flavel’s eclectic, ornamented, 1885 retirement home – now a museum at 441 8th St. – represents the finest the city has to offer. The late Victorian period, 1885 Queen Anne-style home features original Eastlake-influenced woodwork, period furnishings, and exotic hardwood fireplace mantels. A walking tour of Astoria’s oldest neighborhood, written by Vera Gault, is available for sale at the museum’s gift shop.
There’s more to Discover
Visit discoverourcoast.com for more information and photos about this story.
Step outside and take a look at the variety of period buildings on our coast The Columbia-Pacific region is graced with many historic houses. Largely constructed with timber from surrounding old-growth forests, most were designed simply, perhaps with saw-cut patterns near the roof or porch. Locals chose to construct their homes in typical styles of the day, such as Victorian, Colonial Revival or Craftsmaninspired designs. But, it is the intensity – the large remaining swaths of period buildings – that makes our area special. Story by JOHN GOODENBERGER • Photos by ALEX PAJUNAS
Seaside is said to be Oregon’s first seashore resort. The earliest tourists came by boat from Portland to Astoria, then to Warrenton, where they rode a stagecoach to Seaside. George Grimes established a hotel on the Necanicum River in 1871. Overflow patrons set up tents on platforms nearby, and the area became known as Grimes Grove. In 1893, Horace Butterfield constructed a beach house there. A sole survivor of Grimes Grove, the house was moved in 1972 to 570 Necanicum Drive and is now operated by the Seaside Historical Society. The shingle-clad house, known as the Butterfield Cottage, has been restored to its 1912 appearance as a beach cottage and rooming house.
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 71
Located on the Willipa Bay side of the Long Beach Peninsula in Washington, Oysterville appears much as it did more than a century ago. The town was established in 1854 by Robert Espy and Isaac Clark, who were guided to the area by Chinook Chief Nahcati. Espy and Clark harvested oysters and shipped them to gold-rich San Francisco. An immediate success, Oysterville became a boomtown. However, its life was brief. By the late 1880s, the business collapsed and the small town was virtually abandoned. Today, the massive wharfs and canneries are gone, but a fine collection of homes from the 1870s remains. Tucked beneath ancient cedar trees beside grassy wetlands, the village has the feel of time forgotten. Don’t miss the chance to step inside its beautifully maintained church or to stroll through the cemetery on the hill. Self-guided walking tour brochures are available within the church narthex.
72 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Known today as one of Oregon’s thriving artist colonies, Cannon Beach was settled in the 1890s after a toll road was cut over Tillamook Head south from Seaside. Although many of the first homesteaders were among the regional elite, some early cottages were constructed by remittance men: British men whose families asked them to leave their homelands and seek their fortunes elsewhere.
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Ecola State Park
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Wrapping around Tillamook Head between Seaside and Cannon Beach, Ecola State Park draws hikers, sightseers, picnickers, artists and photographers. They try to take in and capture the park’s magnificent natural beauty and sweeping ocean vistas. For history buffs, the park also has a storied past: It played a significant role in Oregon’s formative years. The park is located west of U.S. Highway 101, two miles north of Cannon Beach on Ecola Park Road. The road winds upward through old-growth forest, giving visitors a glimpse back in time and a preview of the park’s treasures. Parking is often limited during the busy season, generally June through September. Two spacious, sandy beaches, Crescent Beach and Indian Beach, provide opportunities to explore the wonders of the park. Both are notable for their tide pools, and families can often 74 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
an explorer’s paradise
Story by DAN HAAG • Photo by ALEX PAJUNAS be seen getting to know marine life, such as sea stars and anemones. Indian Beach is popular with surfers and even made a cameo in the 1991 film “Point Break.” Hiking is a huge draw, and Ecola’s trails rise above nine miles of Pacific Ocean shoreline. They offer viewpoints along the cliffs that look out on picture-postcard seascapes, hidden coves and densely forested promontories. You can even spot a long-abandoned offshore lighthouse, Tillamook Rock Lighthouse (nicknamed Terrible Tilly because of erratic weather conditions). The trail network also includes an 8-mile segment of the Oregon Coast Trail – the park’s backbone – and a 2.5-mile historical interpretive route called the Clatsop Loop Trail. Hiking options vary and cater to all skill levels of outdoor enthusiasts. There are extended roundtrip adventures as well as shorter hikes originating from Ecola Point, Indian Beach, and the small parking wayside on the north side of Tillamook Head in Seaside.
From Ecola Point, which offers a stunning view south of Cannon Beach and Haystack Rock, visitors can follow the Oregon Coast Trail 1.5 miles to Indian Beach or descend a steeper, more difficult 1.25-mile trail to Crescent Beach. The Oregon Coast Trail route over Tillamook Head is also designated as part of the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail. On the Clatsop Loop Trail, you can trace a route used by a Corps of Discovery contingent led by Capt. William Clark in January 1806. The party was looking for a beached whale they had heard about from area Indians. The explorers found the whale near a Native American village after descending to what they called “a beautiful sand shore” and crossing a stream, which Clark later named Ecola Creek. “Ecola” came from the Chinook Indian word for whale, “ekoli.” Much of the prime, oceanfront land in the park used to be privately owned. In the early 20th century, summer homes sat at Ecola Point.
The original 451-acre tract was aquired by Oregon State Parks in 1932 through donation and purchase. The rest of the park, including a forest reserve, was acquired by 1978. Day-use parking permits are required year-round. Visitors are asked to display a daily permit, a 12- or 24-month permit, an Oregon Coast Passport, or a state park camping receipt. A camping receipt is equal to a daily permit for each of the days that you are registered at any state park campground. Daily permits can be purchased at the day-use fee station near the entrance to the park. Permits for 12 and 24 months can be purchased at the day-use fee station or at the camp host site when the fee station is closed. Above all, safety is important. Visitors are asked to read rules posted at all state park beach access points. For park information and updates, call 1-800-551-6949.
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Phog Bounders Antique Mall ...........86 892 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-338-0101 www.phogbounders.com
APARTMENTS Emerald Heights Apartments LLC. .86 1 Emerald Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-8221 www.emeraldheightsapartments.com
ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT Astor Street Opry ..................................63 129 Bond Street Union Town Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-6104 www.astorstreetoprycompany.com
Astoria Music Festival..........................62 P.O. Box 113 Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-9629 www.astoriamusicfestival.org
Astoria Regatta Association..............86 P.O. Box 24 Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-6311 www.astoriaregatta.org
Bay Avenue Gallery ..............................87 1406 Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 97640 360-665-5200 www.bayavenuegallery.com
Clatsop County Fairgrounds.............75 92937 Walluski Loop Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-4600 www.clatsopfairgrounds.com
Clatsop County Historical Society.....92 P.O. Box 88 Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-2203 www.cumtux.org
Oregon Public Broadcasting.............49 7140 SW Macadam Portland, OR 97219 503-445-1874 www.opb.org
Pacific County Historical Society.....87 1008 West Robert Bush Drive South Bend, WA 98586 360-875-5224 www.pacificcohistory.org
Peninsula Arts Association ................21 P.O. Box 321 Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-6041 www.beachartist.org
Scandinavian Midsummer Festival 65
Friends of Old Fort Stevens...............65 P.O. Box 138 Hammond, OR 97121 503-861-1470 www.visitftstevens.com
Spa at Cannery Pier Hotel..................86 No. 10 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-338-4772 www.cannerypierhotel.com
DENTISTS Jeffrey Leinassar, DMD, FAGD...........21 1414 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-0310 www.smileastoria.com
EDUCATION Clatsop Community College ............30 1651 Lexington Avenue Astoria, OR 97103 503-338-2411 www.clatsopcc.edu
Seaside Jazz Festival ............................73
Tongue Point Job Corps Center.......86
P.O. Box 813 Seaside, OR 97138 888-345-6257 www.jazzseaside.com
37573 Old Highway 30 Astoria, OR 97103 503-338-4924 http://tonguepoint.jobcorps.org
Trails End Art Association ..................21
FAMILY, COMMUNITY & CIVIC ORGANIZATIONS
P.O. Box 2351 Gearhart, OR 97138 503-717-9458 www.trailsendart.org
Water Music Festival Society ............63 P.O. Box 524 Seaview, WA 98644 360-665-4466 www.watermusicfestival.com
Wiegardt Studio Gallery.....................21 2607 Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-5976 www.ericwiegardt.com
ASSISTED & RETIREMENT LIVING Suzanne Elise – Assisted Living .......48 101 Forest Drive Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-0307 www.suzanne-elise.com
AUTOMOTIVE TJ’s Auto Repair......................................67 1085 Alternate Highway 101 Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-2886 www.tjsautorepair.com
BUSINESS & PROFESSIONAL SERVICES
Liberty Theater ......................................62
CGC Financial Services, LLC...............23
1203 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-5922 www.liberty-theater.org
5 Centerpoint Drive, Suite 270 Lake Oswego, OR 97035 503-670-1958 www.cgcfinancialservices.com
North Oregon Coast Symphony......86
Tonkon Torp LLP....................................23
P.O. Box 503 Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-0936 www.northoregoncoastsymphony.org
888 SW 5th Avenue, Suite 1600 Portland, OR 97204 503-221-1440 www.tonkon.com
76 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
Seaside Carousel Mall .........................27 300 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-6728 www.seasidecarouselmall.com
Seaside Chamber of Commerce......26 7 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-6391 www.seasidechamber.com
HEALTH CARE Columbia Memorial Hospital ...........37
P.O. Box 34 Astoria, OR 97103 www.astoriascanfest.com
Coaster Theatre Playhouse................61 108 North Hemlock Street P.O. Box 643 Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-1242 www.coastertheatre.com
DAY SPA
Astoria Parks & Recreation Center ..78 1997 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-7275 www.astoriaparks.com
2111 Exchange Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-4321 www.columbiamemorial.org
Ilwaco Urgent Care...............................56 116 Spruce Street Ilwaco, WA 98624 360-642-2662
Pacific Way Wellness ............................31 1289 Pacific Way Gearhart, OR 97138 503-738-9796 www.DrTheodosia.com
Providence Seaside Hospital ............90 725 S. Wahanna Road Seaside, OR 97138 503-717-7000 www.providence.org/northcoast
The Rinehart Clinic ...............................86 City of Rockaway Beach .....................67 276 S. Highway 101 P.O. Box 5 Rockaway Beach, OR 97136 503-355-2291 www.rockawaybeachor.us
City of Seaside Visitors Bureau..26, 91 989 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-3097 or 888-306-2326 www.SeasideOR.com • seasidenaturally.com
Long Beach Merchants Association ..27 P.O. Box 896 Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-4421 www.longbeachmerchants.com
Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau..........................................26, 51 3914 Pacific Way Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-2400 www.funbeach.com
Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce................................89 1715 E. Bay Ave. Ocean Park, WA 98640 888-751-9354 www.opwa.com
Oregon Public Broadcasting.............49
230 Rowe Street P.O. Box 176 Wheeler, OR 97147 503-368-5182 www.rinehartclinic.org
NW Urgent Care – Astoria..................69 2120 Exchange Street, #111 Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-0333 www.nwurgentcare.com
LODGING & TRAVEL Astoria Rivershore Motel....................14 59 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-2921 www.rivershoremotel.com
Big Creek Fishing Lodge.....................88 92878 Waterhouse Road Astoria, OR 97103 503-458-0990 www.bigcreekfishing.com
Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa...................14 No. 10 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-4996 www.cannerypierhotel.com
Columbia Inn..........................................15
7140 SW Macadam Portland, OR 97219 503-445-1874 www.opb.org
495 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-4211 www.columbiainnastoria.com
Seaside Aquarium ................................48
Gearhart By The Sea.............................15
200 N. Promenade Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-6211 www.seasideaquarium.com
1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 800-547-0115 www.gearhartresort.com
Cranberry Museum & Gift Shop ......54
Bob Mathews – Lighthouse Realty ..56
El Compadre - Warrenton ..................43
2907 Pioneer Road Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-5553 www.cranberrymuseum.com
31511 ‘I’ Street Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-4114 www.lighthouseproperty.com
119 S. Main Street Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-2906
Garibaldi Museum .................................86
Coaster Construction, LLC .................31
112 Highway 101 Garibaldi, OR 97118 503-322-8411 www.garibaldimuseum.org
390 Elk Creek Road P.O. Box 245 Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-2235 www.coasterconstruction.com
Heidi’s Inn..................................................57 126 E. Spruce Street Ilwaco, WA 98624 360-642-2387 www.heidisinnmotel.com
Holiday Inn Express...............................86 204 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-6222 www.astoriahie.com
Inn at Seaside ..........................................14 441 2nd Avenue Seaside, OR 97138 800-699-5070 www.innatseaside.com
McMenamins Gearhart Hotel............43 1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 503-717-8159 www.mcmenamins.com/sandtrap
Pilot House ...............................................14 Foot of 14th Street Astoria, OR 97103 888-683-7987 www.AstoriaPilotHouse.com
Rodeway Inn & Suites...........................57 115 3rd Street SW Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-3714 www.rodewayinn.com/hotel-long_beach-washington-WA192
Sand & Sea Oceanfront Condominiums .................15 475 S. Promenade Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-8441/800-628-2371 www.sandandseaoregon.com
Shelburne Inn Restaurant & Pub......15 4415 Pacific Way Seaview, WA 98644 800-466-1896 or 360-642-2442 www.theshelburneinn.com
The Anchorage Cottages ....................15 2209 Ocean Beach Boulevard North Long Beach, WA 98631 800-642-2351 www.TheAnchorageCottages.com
The Wayside Inn......................................75 3339 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-1577 or 888-659-6397 www.thewayside-inn.com
Lost Art of Nursing Museum..............31 3285 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 301-208-8060 www.pronurse.com
Marsh’s Free Museum...........................53 409 Pacific Way S. Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-2188 www.marshsfreemuseum.com
Northwest Carriage Museum............56 314 Alder Street Raymond, WA 98577 360-942-4150 www.nwcarriagemuseum.org
World Kite Museum & Hall of Fame....27 303 Sid Snyder Drive W. Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-4020 www.worldkitemuseum.com
NATIONAL PARKS
Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum..55 P.O. Box 153 115 Lake Street Southeast Ilwaco, WA 98624 360-642-3446 www.columbiapacificheritagemuseum.org
P.O. Box 1425 Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-9000 www.kamalicompany.com
588 Pacific Way Gearhart, OR 97138 503-440-3258 www.MyBeachHomeBroker.com
Saturday Market at The Port of Ilwaco .............................59 P.O. Box 36 Ilwaco, WA 98624 360-783-1143 www.portofilwaco.com
PUBLIC UTILITIES & ENVIRONMENT Pacific County Emergency Management Agency ..59 300 Memorial Drive P.O. Box 101 South Bend, WA 98586 360-875-9338 http://www.co.pacific.wa.us/pcema
RADIO STATIONS P.O. Box 269 Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-0010 www.coastradio.org
REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION
Columbia River Maritime Museum...2, 3
Ann Powell – Lighthouse Realty........56
1792 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-2323 www.crmm.org
P.O. Box 431 Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-244-0698 www.lighthouseproperty.com
1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 503-717-8150 www.mcmenamins.com/sandtrap
Rogue Public House.............................86
Pacific Realty ..........................................53 102 NE Bolstad Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-3127 www.pacreal.com
7709 Sandridge Road Long Beach, WA 98631 www.peninsulachurchofchrist.com
21742 Pacific Way Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-4847 www.jimellaandnancis.com
McMenamins Sandtrap ......................43
Melissa Eddy – Windermere Cronin & Caplan ............31
OUTDOOR MARKETS
313 Pacific Avenue Longbeach, WA 98631 360-642-5555 www.hungryharbor.com
Jimella & Nanci’s Market Café...........43
Kamali Sotheby’s International Realty.......................................5
100 39th Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-5964 www.rogue.com .............................................................
Seasonal Seafoods ...............................43
Lewis & Clark National Historical Park....75
KMUN .........................................................23
MUSEUMS
1711 Pacific Avenue S Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-3325 www.discoverycoastrealestate.com
RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS
3693 Lief Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-4927
Hungry Harbor Grille...........................43
Discovery Coast Real Estate ..............55
92343 Fort Clatsop Road Astoria, OR 97103 503-861-2471 www.nps.gov/lewis
Geno’s Pizza & Burgers........................44
306 Bay Center Dike Road Bay Center, WA 98527 888-905-9079 www.baycenterfarms.com ..........................................
Peninsula Church of Christ ................87 Shelburne Inn Restaurant & Pub.....15 4415 Pacific Way Seaview, WA 98644 800-466-1896 or 360-642-2442 www.theshelburnerestaurant.com
RESTAURANTS, FOOD & BEVERAGE
Ship Inn ....................................................45
Bridgewater Bistro................................39 20 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-6777 www.bridgewaterbistro.com
Camp 18 Restaurant ............................44
#1 2nd Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-0033 www.shipinn-astoria.com
Silver Salmon Grille ..............................44
42362 Highway 26 Seaside, OR 97138 503-755-1818 www.camp18restaurant.com
1105 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-338-6640 www.silversalmongrille.com
Casa de Tamales ....................................86
Street 14 Coffee.....................................43
1426 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-2931
Charlie’s Chowder House ...................45 1335 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-741-3055
The Depot Restaurant.........................39
Doogers Seafood & Grill.....................39 900 S. Pacific Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-4224
1208 38th Place Seaview, WA 98644 360-642-7880 www.depotrestaurantdining.com
The Human Bean of Seaside.............39
El Compadre - Long Beach. ...............43 1900 Pacific Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-8280
1410 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-5511 Find us on Facebook!
1545 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 503-735-5405 www.thehumanbean.com
Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com • 77
our coast advertiser index
Hallmark Resort and Spa.....................15 1400 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 888-448-4449 or 503-436-1566 www.hallmarkinns.com
our coast advertiser index
RETAILERS & SPECIALTY SHOPPING Active Enterprises, Inc.........................54 P.O. Box 501 Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-2102 www.propanelongbeach.com
Artistic Bouquets & More...................87 3811 Pacific Highway Seaview, WA 98644 360-642-4541 www.artisticbouquets.com
Bikes & Beyond ......................................86 1089 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-2961 www.bikesandbeyond.com
Bruce’s Candy Kitchen.........................73 256 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-2641 Seaside Outlet Mall Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-7828 www.brucescandy.com
Clatsop Power Equipment.................31 34912 Hwy 101 Business Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-0792 www.clatsoppower.net
Cleanline Surf Shop .............................11 60 N. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-7888 171 Sunset Boulevard., Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503)436-9726 www.cleanlinesurf.com
Dennis Company ..................................53 201 Pacific Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-3166 www.denniscompany.com
Finn Ware .................................................65 1116 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-5720 www.finnware.com
Forsythea .................................................86 1124 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-2189 www.forsythea.com
Fred Meyer ..............................................30 695 Highway 101 Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-3000 www.fredmeyer.com
Hal’s Emporium/ Nehalem Auction Central ..................31 35995 7th Street Nehalem, OR 97131 503-475-3383 www.nehalemauction.com
Homespun Quilts..................................88
The Wine Shack .....................................44
L & D Racetech.......................................30
108 10th Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-3300 www.homespunquilt.com
124 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-1100 www.beachwine.com
1035 Marlin Avenue SE Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-2636 www.LandDRaceTech.com
In The Boudoir........................................86
Walter E. Nelson .............................30, 86
NW Women’s Surf Camps
1004 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-4400 www.intheboudoirs.com
2240 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-6362
P.O. Box 425 Seaside, OR 97138 503-440-5782 www.nwwomenssurfcamps.com
Jacks Country Store .............................58 26006 SR 103 Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-4988 www.jackscountrystore.com
L & D Racetech.......................................30 1035 Marlin Avenue SE Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-2636 www.LandDRaceTech.com
Loop Jacobsen Jewelers.....................86 1360 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-6181
Lucy’s Books............................................86
Driftwood RV Park ................................57 1512 Pacific Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 888-567-1902 www.driftwood-rvpark.net
Ocean Park Resort ................................87 25904 ‘R’ Street Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-4585 www.opresort.com
Westgate Cabins & RV Park ...............57 20803 Pacific Way Ocean Park, WA 98640 360-665-4221 www.vacationwestgate.com
348 12th Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-4210 www.lucys-books.com
SPORTS & RECREATION
Maggie & Henry ....................................45
1157 N. Marion Avenue • P.O. Box 2874 Gearhart, OR 97138 503-738-3538 www.gearhartgolflinks.com
172 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-1718, 877-511-5752 www.maggieandhenry.com
Old Town Framing ................................86 1287 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-5221
Rusty’s Coin Shop .................................87 100 Bolstad Avenue E. #105 Long Beach, WA 98631 360-783-2646
Seaside Carousel Mall .........................27 300 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 503-738-6728 www.seasidecarouselmall.com
Gearhart Golf Links ..............................48
Highlife Adventures.............................27 33136 Highway 101 Business Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-9875 www.highlife-adventures.com
Peninsula Golf Course .........................57 9604 Pacific Highway Long Beach, WA 98631 360-642-2828 www.peninsulagolfcourse.com
Port of Ilwaco .........................................52 165 Howerton Avenue Ilwaco, WA 98624 360-642-3143 www.portofilwaco.com
Sea Breeze Charters .............................52 185 Howerton Way SE Ilwaco, WA 98624 360-642-2300 www.seabreezecharters.net
TRANSPORTATION Pacific Transit System ..........................59 216 N. 2nd Street Raymond, WA 98577 360-875-9418 www.pacifictransit.org
Royal Cab, LLC........................................31 P.O. Box 101 Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-5818 www.royalcab.net
THREE
Seaside Factory Outlet Center .........26 1111 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 503-717-1603 www.seasideoutlets.com
Sesame & Lilies ......................................21 183 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 503-436-2027 www.sesameandlilies.com
Sportsmen’s Cannery ..........................87 1215 35th Street Seaview, WA 98644 360-642-2335
SYZYGY.....................................................30 447 Laneda Avenue Manzanita, OR 97130 503-368-7573 www.syzygymanzanita.com
Holly McHone Jewelers.........................4 1150 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-8029 www.hollymchone.com
RV PARKS & CAMPING
Terra Stones ............................................86 951 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-5548
78 • Our Coast 2014 • discoverourcoast.com
ASTORIA RECREATION CENTER
ASTORIA AQUATIC CENTER
Open Gym, Teen Zone, Day Camps, Roller Skating, & More!
Open Swim & Family Swim times From 9am to 7pm weekdays & 11 am to 4 pm on weekends
503-741-3035
PORT OF PLAY 503-325-8669
1
503-325-7027
3
An indoor play park equipped with a bounce house, rock climbing wall, & hands on interactive activities. Open Monday through Saturday 10am–4pm & Sunday 12–4pm
2
AstoriaParks.com
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Region in detail
Long Beach Peninsula Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.
1. Leadbetter Point State Park — Ocean Park, Wash., 19 miles north of Seaview 2. Discovery Trail — Ilwaco to north end of Long Beach, Wash. 3. Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum — 115 Lake St. S.E., Ilwaco, Wash. 4. Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center — Cape Disappointment State Park, two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash. 5. Port of Ilwaco — 165 Howerton Ave., Ilwaco, Wash. TILLAMOOK 6. Cranberry Museum — 2907 Pioneer Road, Long Beach, Wash. 7. Fort Columbia State Park — U.S. Highway 101, two miles west of the Astoria Bridge in Chinook, Wash. 8. Cape Disappointment State Park — two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash. 9. North Head Lighthouse and Cape Disappointment Lighthouse — within Cape Disappointment State Park 10. World Kite Museum — 303 S.W. Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach, Wash. 11. Willapa Interpretive Art Trail — near Refuge Headquarters in Willapa National Wildlife Refuge 12. Knappton Cove Heritage Center — two miles past the rest stop north of the Astoria Bridge on Washington state Route 401 13. Appelo Archive Center — 1056 state Route 4, Naselle, Wash.
Pacific Ocean
CLATSOP
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Pacific Ocean
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Cannon Beach-North Tillamook County region PACIFIC
WAHKIAKUM WAHKIA
Region in detail CLATSOP
TILLAMOOK
Cannon Beach near Haystack Rock
Haystack Rock Awareness Program
ns, Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, m restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click onn a map mm button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recom recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do. 1. Haystack Rock Awareness Program — offshore at midtown Cannon Beach 2. Cannon Beach History Center & Museum — 1387 S. Spruce St., Cannon Beach 3. Ecola State Park — off U.S. Highway 101, two miles north of Cannon Beach 4. Cape Falcon — in Oswald West State Park, 10 miles south of Cannon Beach 5. Neahkahnie Mountain — in Oswald West State Park 6. Oswald West State Park — U.S. Highway 101, 10 miles south of Cannon Beach
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230 Rowe Street â&#x20AC;˘ Wheeler, OR 503-368-5182 â&#x20AC;˘ 800-368-5182
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Lodging & Travel
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PE A C O C K A L L E Y â&#x20AC;˘ PIN E C O N E H IL L C O Y U C H I â&#x20AC;˘ D A SH & A L B E R T R U G S 1004 C om m ercial Street,A storia,O R 97103
503-325-4400
Retailers & Shopping you rloca l
Jan itorial& PaperS u pply S tore
503-325-6362 â&#x20AC;˘ 800-344-1943
2240 COMMERCIAL ST. ASTORIA Millpond Area
VISITOR INFORMATION RESOURCES
Arts & Entertainment
Retailers & Shopping
ASTORIA-WARRENTON AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
• Fresh, Hand- Arranged Flowers • Blooming plants and baskets • Same Day Delivery • Balloons & Candy • Most major Credit Cards welcome
111 W. Marine Drive, Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6311 or (800) 875-6807 www.oldoregon.com
CANNON BEACH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 207 N. Spruce St., Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2623, ext. 3 www.cannonbeach.org
3811 Pacific Hwy, Seaview, WA 98644 (intersection of Hwy 101 & Hwy 103) 360-642-4541 www.artisticbouquets.com
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LONG BEACH PENINSULA VISITORS BUREAU P.O. Box 562, Long Beach, WA 98631 • 3914 Pacific Way, Seaview, WA (360) 642-2400 or (800) 451-2542 www.funbeach.com
NEHALEM BAY AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE P.O. Box 601, Wheeler, OR, 97147 • 327 Nehalem Blvd., Wheeler (877) 368-5100 www.nehalembaychamber.com
OCEAN PARK AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE P.O. Box 403, Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4448 or (888) 751-9354 www.opwa.com
SEASIDE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE P.O. Box 7, Seaside, OR 97138 • 7 N. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside (503) 738-6391 www.seasidechamber.com
SEASIDE VISITORS BUREAU 989 Broadway, Seaside, OR 97138 • 7 N. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside (503) 738-3097 or (888) 306-2326 www.seasideor.com
WAHKIAKUM CHAMBER OF COMMERCE P.O. Box 52, Cathlamet, WA, 98612 • 102 Main St., Suite 205, Cathlamet, WA (360) 795-9996 www.wahkiakumchamber.com
WILLAPA HARBOR CHAMBER OF COMMERCE P.O. Box 1249 South Bend, WA 98586 (360) 942-5419 www.visit.willapabay.org
Arts & Entertainment
Pacific County Historical Society MUSEUM & VISITOR CENTER
Local and Northwest History Book Store • Maps and Charts www.pacificcohistory.org
Our Coast Magazine www.discoverourcoast.com The Daily Astorian www.dailyastorian.com Chinook Observer www.chinookobserver.com Coast Weekend www.coastweekend.com Seaside Signal www.seasidesignal.com Cannon Beach Gazette www.cannonbeachgazette.com Coast River Business Journal www.crbizjournal.com Oregon Coast Today www.oregoncoasttoday.com East Oregonian www.eastoregonian.com Capital Press www.capitalpress.com Hermiston Herald www.hermistonherald.com Wallowa County Chieftain www.wallowa.com Blue Mountain Eagle www.bluemountaineagle.com Only Ag www.onlyag.com Northwest Opinions www.northwestopinions.com EO Media Group www.eomediagroup.com
Sportsmen’s CANNERY
YOUR OWN FISH BACK
... Or we also trade
(360)-642-2335 Seaview, WA 98644
Also at the Ilwaco Port Dock 642-3340
OPEN EVERY DAY! 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. FREE ADMISSION • 360-875-5224 MP 54, Hwy. 101 - South Bend
WE PROCESS SALMON, TUNA, STURGEON & BOTTOM FISH
Retailers & Shopping
Churches
Peninsula Church of Christ
W e Buy,Sell& Trade Coins,Gold & Silver
COINS
7709 Sandridge Rd. • Long Beach
Rusty’s Coin Shop
Sunday Morning • 10:30 am (360) 642-7036 • (360) 642-2114 www.peninsulachurchofchrist.com
Newspapers The most valuable and respected source of local news, advertising and information for our communities.
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360-783-2646
100 Bolstad Ave E #105 • Long Beach WA 98631 Open Wed - Sun, 11 - 5
RV & Campgrounds FR WI EE FI
CEAN PARK RESORT
In the
of Ocean Park under Tall Pines
Motel • Guest Houses RV & Tent Sites • • •
Playground Rec Hall Propane
• • •
Laundry Showers Games
www.opresort.com Reservations 1-800-835-4634 25904 “R” St. • P.O. Box 339 Ocean Park, WA 98640 • (360) 665-4585
our coast VISIT OUR MOBILE WEBSITE:
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our coast washington business directory
ARTISTIC BOUQUETS
BIG CREEK FISHING LODGE Hot tub, Sauna and Wireless access available Located on Lower Big Creek, just off Highway 30 in Knappa, Oregon on 130 acres of Game Refuge, Big Creek Fishing Lodge is a great place for hiking, sightseeing, fishing, and photography. We offer day use and over a mile of private bank fishing with overnight lodging facilities. Our 3,000 sq. ft. facility can accommodate large groups, sleeps up to 11.
Please visit our website at www.bigcreekfishing.com for rates and a virtual tour.
92878 Waterhouse Rd, Astoria, Oregon 97103 • 503-458-0990
Homespun Quilts
Com e to H om espu n Q u ilts for a ll you r sew in g a n d qu iltin g n eeds.
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108 10th ST. – Astoria, OR
(503) 325-3300
Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm • Sun 10am-4pm
www.homespunquilt.com
Playing safe at the beach Be beach smart. Even though the beach is fun, you need to play safe. The Oregon Coast is a great place to visit. Whether you are looking for seashells, building sand castles, or exploring tide pools, the beach can be a lot of fun. Remember, the ocean has dangerous waves, logs, rocks and cliffs. Talk to your family and friends about how to play safe on the beach.
Beware of rip currents Rip currents are strong currents of water that rush out to sea. They can form on any beach that has breaking waves. If you look closely, you can see a rip current. It will have dark muddy water and be very choppy. You might see foam and other debris floating out to sea. If you see a rip current, stay away! They are very dangerous. If you are ever caught in a rip current, don’t panic. Try to relax and swim parallel to the beach. Don’t try to fight the current. If you have trouble swimming, tread water and call for help. Parents: Be sure always to watch your children closely when they are playing in and around water.
Don’t climb on drift logs Logs on wet sand or in the water are especially dangerous. The ocean is strong enough to pick up even the biggest log and plop it down on top of you. If you see a log on wet sand, stay off of it.
Be aware of incoming tides Tide pools can be so interesting that you might lose track of time. Make sure you know when the tide is coming in so that you don’t get stranded. Free tide tables, available at state park offices, information centers and many shops and motels, list the times of high and low tides.
Be careful on cliffs and rocks Ocean spray and heavy rains can make rocks and trails slippery and unsafe. Stay on marked trails and behind all fences. They are there for your safety. When hiking, make sure you wear the right type of shoes. Stay away from cliff edges. Don’t stand under overhanging cliffs, which can be dangerous.
Beware of sneaker waves
Know who to call when you need help. In an emergency, call 911. • Providence Seaside Hospital 725 S. Wahanna Road, Seaside, OR 97138 503-717-7000 • Providence Medical Group-Seaside with walk-in availability 727 S. Wahanna Road, Seaside, OR 97138 • Providence Medical Group-Cannon Beach with walk-in availability 171 N. Larch, Suite 16, Cannon Beach, OR 97110
Watch out for “sneaker waves.” These are waves that appear suddenly and are unusually large. They rush up on the shore with enough force to knock you down and drag you out to sea. Keep your eyes on the ocean.
• Providence Medical Group-Warrenton with walk-in availability 171 S. Highway 101, Warrenton, OR 97146
Understanding tsunamis
For Providence Medical Group appointments or to check walk-in availability, call 503-717-7556.
There are two types of tsunami warnings that you need to be aware of: a distant event and a local event. With a distant event, you will be alerted by sirens located throughout the city. Proceed by foot and follow the posted evacuation route signs to higher ground. With a local event, you will feel a powerful earthquake. Take immediate cover until the earthquake subsides, and then go immediately to higher ground by foot using the posted evacuation routes.
www.providence.org/northcoast
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