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4 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

Experiences await on

our coast B that are so powerful, so essential they will remind you who you are: Call it a reboot of your soul.

ig talk, but true. Stride down a trail angling through sea cliffs, stepping over native copper-colored frogs and rich red newts. Rounding a bend, there’s a gnarled spruce posing as Treebeard the Ent from Tolkien’s Middle-Earth. Crab boats, decks lit brightly as the sun as crews pull up pots from the inky depths, glow on the horizon like Christmas lights in the gathering pink and purple dusk. Come expecting to be reawakened. There will be sights that linger in your imagination as long as you live; new favorite foods; walks where you’ll fall in love; people creating art, music and poetry perfectly tuned to the key of these infinite waters, beaches and forests. Black bears and bumblebees, elk amid the Scotch broom, bird-filled islands and lichen-encrusted canyons, oysters and orcas and surfboards, torrential waterfalls and utterly silent lakes, mighty rains and the mightier clarity that follows: These are a few of our favorite things. Our reality is almost unimaginably rich. It is also profoundly personal — this is a place of discovery, of deep friendship, of adventure. Don’t expect prepackaged tours or sanitized theme parks. Our luminous days and potent

nights are organic, unfiltered, undiluted. Maybe you’ll come in January, hoping to stand witness to a gargantuan storm capable of peeling the enamel off your teeth, but instead find yourself standing in shirt-sleeve sunshine, arm-in-arm with your best person on miles of beach — your own private romance, observed only by the wild whitecaps and brazenly tame pelicans. See the world as our eagles do: Fly in a biplane or helicopter a thousand feet above the mouth of the Columbia and count the volcanoes marching down the Cascades, giants in snowy stocking caps Buy a bag of yeasty, sensuous cardamom rolls and set out for Willapa Bay in the tender morning. Take a folding chair, a thermos of Scandinavian-strength coffee, plant yourself by a slough. Bring Bob Pyle’s “Sky Time in Gray’s River” or Barry Lopez’s “River Notes.” Await the blue herons and river otters — the herons can see your lids slide across your wondering eyes and maybe even read your thoughts. You must be as worshipful of stillness as they are. The otter will brim with curiosity. You’ll see a faint trail of bubbles swaying up the slough and then a black nose and eyes so aware you’ll wonder if it’s a mischievous uncle reincarnated. Tell him a corny

Matt Winters Contributing editor Our Coast Magazine

joke. He just might laugh. Go down to the tide pools and contemplate these nurseries of life — and their fragility and ours. Rent bicycles for the whole family and pretend you’re all about 8, rascals at the very acme of childhood. Look for puddles to splash through. Put your kickstands down along the riverfront and dip your toes in waters that tasted the paddles of the Chinook, the Clatsop, of Lewis and Clark. Explore the Columbia River Lightship and then celebrate with milkshakes, watching vast ships glide outward toward Asia. Feed the seals, ride the merry-go-rounds, blow your diet on elephant ears and saltwater taffy — these, too, are profound experiences in the lives of families. Cherish them. Leave no Tilt-a-Whirl unridden. We are a good and funny and thoughtful tribe, a band of sisters and brothers joined together by our love of this place and of one another. Join us.

Come expecting to be reawakened. There will be sights that linger in your imagination as long as you live.

PUBLISHER Steve Forrester EDITOR Rebecca Sedlak DESIGN DIRECTOR John D. Bruijn ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Betty Smith PHOTOGRAPHERS Alex Pajunas Damian Mulinix Joshua Bessex CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Matt Winters CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Matt Winters Knute Berger Cassandra Proﬁta Lynette Rae McAdams John Goodenberger Dwight Caswell Gary Henley Matt Love MJ Cody

our coast

Number 4 • 2015 • www.discoverourcoast.com

FEATURES

ILLUSTRATOR Sally Lackaﬀ GRAPHICS Alan Kenaga BUSINESS & CIRCULATION MANAGER Debra Bloom ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVES Holly Larkins Wendy Richardson Lisa Cadonau Brandy Stewart Laura Kaim Andrew Renwick DIGITAL MEDIA Crindalyn Lyster Travis Clark

Willapa dreamin’ Oyster growers: Having a delicious time since the 1850s. BY MATT WINTERS

PHONE 503-325-3211

GET CONNECTED Interact with us and the community at discoverourcoast.com

FisherPoets Gathering Astoria’s annual festival is a tide of poetry that lifts all boats. BY KNUTE BERGER

EMAIL US support@discoverourcoast.com WRITE TO US 949 Exchange St., Astoria, OR 97103 VISIT US ONLINE discoverourcoast.com offers all the content of Our Coast magazine and more. You’ll find slideshows of stunning photos, videos, tidetable information, travel resources, maps and more. Discover all the wonderful attractions, lively entertainment and local quirks of the Columbia-Pacific region.

Our Coast is published annually by The Daily Astorian and Chinook Observer in February. Printed in Portland. Copyright © 2015 Our Coast. All rights reserved. www.dailyastorian.com • www.chinookobserver.com EO Media Group

10 16 24 28 34

Hug Point Discover an exciting new world five miles south of Cannon Beach.

Following the tide Explore the tide pools of our coast and all the treasures they hold.

Beach volleyball Seaside hosts the “World’s Largest Amateur Beach Volleyball Tournament.”

Oregon’s beaches Learn the undocumented story of the state’s publicly owned beaches.

Beauty in austerity Small, historic churches dot the landscape of the Columbia-Paciﬁc region.

Homes. Rentals. Hotels. Campgrounds.

OFFICE ADDRESS 949 Exchange St., Astoria, OR 97103

COVER PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS INTRO PHOTO BY JOSHUA BESSEX

DO & SEE

Artistry. Outdoors. Adventures. Pastimes.

LIVE & STAY

WEBSITE www.discoverourcoast.com

DEPARTMENTS

40 46 50 52

Ocean in view Four hotel picks: Get the best views while exploring coastal towns.

A Gearhart classic Step inside a local couple’s lovingly restored Craftsman beach cottage.

My coast Hear why residents of the ColumbiaPaciﬁc region call our coast home.

Camping on our coast Find the best spot to suit your needs when enjoying the outdoors.

EAT & DRINK Feasts. Eateries. Libations. Recipes.

57 60

Clam chowder This guide delivers the perfect chowder for every taste.

Distilling creativity Forget the beer — check out these craft distilleries on our coast.

+ REGIONAL MAPS AND DIRECTORIES Maps of Our Coast. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Index of advertisers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Visitor Information Resources . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Our Coast Business Directories. . . . . . . . . . 96

North Coast Land Conservency Finding common ground with land owners to preserve native wildlife and ecosystems for the future. BY CASSANDRA PROFITA

ON THE COVER Steve White, of Goble, Oregon, and his son Seth face oﬀ with incoming waves as they dig razor clams during low tide at Fort Stevens State Park.

contributors Lynette Rae McAdams Freelance writer Lynette Rae McAdams first arrived in Astoria as a shipmate aboard the M/V Sea Lion in 1999. Instantly smitten by the lush combination of river and sea, she’s been living, working, and playing in the Columbia-Pacific region ever since. When she’s not dipping her toes in a local tide pool (“Following the tide,” pg. 16), or her spoon in the finest of chowders (“In search of the perfect clam chowder,” pg. 57), you can find McAdams rambling the coastline in her beloved Volkswagen camper van (“Camping our coast,” pg. 52) — either toasting the sunset or chasing her next story. She currently resides on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula.

Knute Berger Knute “Skip” Berger is a Seattle author, columnist and radio commentator. He is the award-winning “Mossback” columnist for the online daily Crosscut.com where he focuses on local politics and heritage; Editor-at-Large for Seattle magazine; and a regular news commentator for Seattle’s NPR affiliate KUOW-FM. He has authored three books, the latest being the eBook “Roots of Tomorrow: Tales of Early Seattle Urbanism” (2014). His others are “Space Needle, Spirit of Seattle” (2012) and “Pugetopolis: A Mossback takes on Growth Addicts, Weather Wimps and the Myth of Seattle Nice” (2009). He’s a Seattle native who is the most land-lubberly of a family full of commercial fishers, a fact reinforced by his time spent in Astoria among the region’s fisherpoets (“Astoria’s FisherPoet Gathering,” pg. 74).

John Goodenberger

Cassandra Profita When writer Cassandra Profita isn’t reporting on the environment of the Pacific Northwest, she’s out exploring it. Much of what she now understands about the ecology of Oregon stems from her early reporting on the North Coast Land Conservancy for The Daily Astorian newspaper. In the land trust’s leaders, she found a deep well of local knowledge and an intricate field guide to the coastal landscape (“North Coast Land Conservancy,” pg. 80). It’s a guide that continues to inform her current reporting at Oregon Public Broadcasting.

Matt Love Matt Love lives in Astoria and is the publisher of Nestucca Spit Press. He’s the author/editor of 12 books about Oregon. In 2009, Love won the Oregon Literary Arts’ Stewart H. Holbrook Literary Legacy Award for his contributions to Oregon history and literature. He visits the beach about every other day and prefers if one is around (“Finding yourself on Oregon’s beaches,” pg. 28). His website is www.nestuccaspitpress.com

8 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

“Although we often think of high-style buildings as being the apex of architectural design, I find as much interest — if not more — in vernacular architecture,” says John Goodenberger, whose life’s work is the preservation and recordation of buildings within the Columbia-Pacific region. He says the architecture of local towns and countrysides are defined by simple buildings such as churches (“Beauty in austerity,” pg. 34) largely constructed by and for immigrants. “The rich social histories associated with these buildings more than compensates for their lack of formal style,” he adds. Trained in architecture, Goodenberger is currently an adjunct instructor within Clatsop Community College’s historic preservation program.

Dwight Caswell You have to be utterly engaged in the present to make a good photograph, says Dwight Caswell. He became a photographer shortly after receiving his doctorate from the University of Chicago and spent time learning from established photographers, including Ansel Adams and Wynn Bullock. In the 1980s, he began writing about sailing, food and wine (“Distilling creativity,” pg. 60) and now focuses on travel and proﬁles of interesting people (“A Gearhart classic,” pg. 46). He has translated and illustrated the “Tao Te Ching” of Lao-Tzu and published “Finding China,” an illustrated journal of his travels in China and Tibet. His ﬁrst novel is scheduled for publication later this year, and he is currently working on a book about the Neolithic monuments of Great Britain.

Matt Winters “After homesteading in Washington Territory in 1883, great-grandpa and grandma opened a restaurant featuring oysters, vegetables from their own garden, wild-berry pies hot from a wood-fired oven and barrels of butter. Plus waffles,” says Matt Winters. Pacific Northwest foods are still fully flavored with the spirit of the North Pacific, seasoned with ardent personalities and a dash of humor. This stillvibrant marriage of pioneer spirit and delicious living is a source of constant inspiration for Winters, who has practiced the joyful lifestyle of outer coast newspaper editor for two and half decades. When he isn’t savoring Willapa and Columbia seafood (“Willapa dreamin’,” pg. 68), he walks the cliffs and glens of Cape Disappointment with his undaunted wheaten terrier. A sample of his award-winning columns is available at mythtown.blogspot.com

MJ Cody “Even as a little kid, I loved road trips and being in a diﬀerent place every night,” says Northwest author MJ Cody. “I actually thought someone changed the scenery while you slept, so it was important to have a safe, cozy place to stay to ensure that the next day’s adventure would be perfect.” Cody says she still believes that — perhaps not the changing scenery part, but that where you lay your head matters (“Ocean in view,” pg. 40). “For me, where you stay is integral to any journey — a place unlike another, unlike home. A place that adds richness, that speaks to you in its own particular way.” Cody’s recent books are “Sleeping Around the Northwest” travel tales and a mystery, “Standing on the Beach.” For more on Cody’s books and travels visit mjcody.com

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Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 9

do see

Artistry. Outdoors. Adventures. Pastimes.

do see Between slack and high tide, the beach next to the Hug Point State Recreation Site may look like another typical stretch of Oregon Coast: towering trees, steep cliffs and plenty of sand. However, a quick consultation of the tide chart and a well-timed visit at low tide can open up a new world to explore five miles south of Cannon Beach. As the tide recedes, a bounty of unique geographic features is revealed beyond Adair Point, just north of the parking lot. A short walk brings you to the base of Hug Point Falls. The 15-foot waterfall marks the final drop of Fall Creek before it flows through a bed of smooth, rounded rocks and across the beach toward the ocean. The warm orange hues of the surrounding sandstone walls seem to glow on bright sunny days. Caves of varying shapes and sizes can also be found along this magical stretch of beach and beg to be explored. But the highlight of Hug Point comes from walking the old road bed that was carved into the cape for which it is named. In the late 19th century, stage coaches used the beach as a highway between Cannon Beach and Arch Cape and had to “hug” the rocks to get around the point even at low tide. A narrow, makeshift road was later carved into the face of the wall to keep automobiles from becoming stuck in rising tides. The road can still be seen today, though foot traffic has replaced the motor vehicle as the preferred form of transportation. Tide pools abound in the rocky pools below the barnacle-covered roadbed. If you are worried about getting your clothes or electronic gadgets wet, remember to keep an eye on the clock. Waves can come in quickly with the rising tide, making it almost impossible to get back around Adair Point and to your car without getting soaked by salt water.

There’s more to Discover Need to check the tide tables to plan your trip? Visit www.discoverourcoast.com

12 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 13

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do see

following the tide as the waves recede, explore the tide pools of our coast and all the treasures they hold Story & photos by Lynette Rae McAdams

PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS

18 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

t’s a little after 6 a.m., and the sun is just breaking over the Oregon Coast Range, spreading fingers of soft light across the rugged hills, through the sleeping town, and all the way down to the sea, where it pushes gently at the early morning mists that hug the coastline. Within hours, this famous shore will swarm with people — a happy throng of summer frolickers — but now, in the stolen moments of a brand new day, it plays host to just a few. As if drawn by magnetic force, we have converged here from different directions, coaxed to the water’s edge wearing mismatched fleece and flyaway hair, our pant legs thrust haphazardly into rubber boots — all signs of having dressed in the dark. We are in a hurry. We can’t be late. It is low tide in the Marine Garden at Haystack Rock, and as we all know, it never waits. Before I actually see the tide pools, I smell them. That soft tanginess floats in on the breeze — a mix of clean salt and sweet decay — and on its back is the childhood memory of mornings spent just like this, chasing the edge of the Pacific at sunrise, head bowed, eyes peering curiously into shallows, a trusted friend and teacher by my side.

PHOTO BY ALEX PAJUNAS

do see

Through his eyes, gobs of sticky green mounds transformed into sea anemones, their spearlike tentacles primed for defense. Where I would see a simple rock, he would show me a chiton — that hard-plated mollusk who blends with the terrain and feeds with a magnetized tongue. Tangles of seaweed became shelter for hermit crabs; a dark crevice served as day-spa for an octopus. Within this mysterious kingdom was a beautiful array of life not at all what it seemed. And it was absolutely, stunningly marvelous. Here, now, on this Cannon Beach morning, it’s as though the spirit of my old friend has erupted all around me. In a measured dance, the ocean has lifted her frothy skirts, teasing at the base of the great sea stack. And scattered among the freshly formed pools — sporting bright red jackets and well-tuned eyes — a host of talented teachers stand waiting. They are stewards of the Haystack Rock Awareness Program, a group of naturalists comprised of trained city staff and local volunteers. Their program strives to protect this treasure in the most long-lasting way possible: by merging visitor exploration with honest education. At the edge of a tide pool, I stop to listen as a steward tells the story of the Giant Green Anemone, whose tentacles sprawl in the water before her like a full-blooming chrysanthemum. She is spinning the true tale of friendship between the animal at her feet and the algae that thrives within its tissue — two organisms living in perfect symbiosis — and her audience is obviously enchanted. After a moment, she sends them further into the garden, where another guide weaves similar magic with a brilliant purple sea urchin. “So what are my chances for a Pycnopodia helianthoides?” I ask, lingering behind. I’m hoping my tone is playful enough she won’t think I’m testing her, or worse, smarting off. But I want her to know we share a common language for these pools; that long ago, someone like her introduced me to these creatures, and the moment was important enough, impacting enough, that all these years later I can ask for them by name. I want her to know that I love them too. She flashes me a kindred smile, and, not missing a beat, says, “No Sunflower Stars today. But look over here, you might like this.” I’d been expecting the bad news about my favorite sea stars. All along the Pacific coast, an outbreak of Sea Star Wasting Syndrome — a fatal and mysterious disease, now linked to a specific type of virus — was afflicting every species, showing no mercy. Here, where the rocks were typically blanketed by hundreds of colorful stars, there were now only a few. >>

Pisaster ochraceus, a purple sea star, clings to the rocks at Beards Hollow near Seaview, Washington.

do see

Beard’s Hollow SEAVIEW, WASHINGTON

Arcadia Beach State Recreation Site

The Cove

CANNON BEACH, OREGON

SEASIDE, OREGON

Indian Beach

Hug Point State Recreation Site

ECOLA STATE PARK, OREGON

CANNON BEACH, OREGON

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Short Sand Beach

CANNON BEACH, OREGON

OSWALD WEST STATE PARK, OREGON

Within this mysterious kingdom was a beautiful array of life not at all what it seemed. And it was absolutely, stunningly marvelous. “We lost more than 90 percent of our population in five months,” she tells me. “It’s been devastating.” She’s bending over now, parting the seaweed gently with her fingers for a more intimate look. “But in the last few days, we’ve been finding lots of these.” And nestled there on the rock, shining brightly, lies a juvenile ochre sea star, not much bigger than a nickel. More people have joined us now, eager for a glimpse at the next generation, and, immediately, she’s fielding questions about the little star’s future. She tells us that we can’t know what will happen yet, but this young fellow is a good sign; that for now, all we can do is wait, and watch, and seek to learn. And that’s when I see it happen. On the edge of an outgoing tide — the water replaced by a wave of teachers and attentive students — I witness the singular moment where wonder and knowledge come together, and end up wedded forever. Today, on this beautiful stretch of Oregon beach, there is still hope for the sea stars. 20 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

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1111 Roosevelt at 12th Ave. & Hwy. 101 Seaside, OR Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 23

do see

S E A S I D E

BEACH VOLLEYBALL Story by Gary Henley • Photos by Alex Pajunas

It’s already referred to as the “World’s Largest Amateur Beach Volleyball Tournament.” And every year, tournament organizers and the city of Seaside manage to make it a little bigger. It’s the annual Seaside Beach Volleyball Tournament, which will celebrate its 34th year in 2015. The tournament takes place on the sands of Seaside, with the main court directly in front of the famed Turnaround, giving fans and passing tourists a great view of the action, up and down the beach. Every year the second weekend of August, about a half-mile of Oregon’s 363-mile coastline is reserved for the annual tournament, which brings in beach volleyball players and fans from around the state, up and down the West Coast, Canada and across the U.S. And it’s amazing how many players, spectators and courts you can pack into a half-mile of beach. Tournament directors say the growth of the Seaside tournament will continue, as long as there’s players to play and no shortage of volleyball nets. “It’s been a great partnership, working with the Seaside Chamber of Commerce,” said Brian Chapman, tournament co-director along with brother Tom Chapman, of the North Pacific Beach Volleyball Association. “(The Seaside Chamber) has been a huge part of the growth, and we’re excited to continue to build this tournament.”

It’s amazing how many players, spectators and courts you can pack into a half-mile of beach.

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 25

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Just how big is the World’s Largest Amateur Beach Volleyball Tournament? The 2014 tournament featured 143 courts and just over 1,400 teams (both new records) competing in 51 different divisions, for three days of volleyball. Divisions range from parent and child to Masters 55+, along with Men, Women and Co-ed Open Divisions that feature current and retired Association of Volleyball Professionals-ranked players. Tournament organizers — one way or another — always find space for the numbers of players, teams, fans and courts to keep it that way. “We’re looking for a nice, controlled 5- to10-percent growth every year, so it can stay manageable,” Chapman said. The tournament prides itself on the natural settings for both playing and watching volleyball. As the tournament’s website boasts, “Seaside Beach Volleyball is as organic as it comes … no bleachers, no required team shirts, no plastic clapping devices and no entry fee for spectators! Best of all, when the tournament is over, there is no trace of it left on the clean white sands.” With an approximate 3,000 players and 10,000 spectators every year, “our tournament is known throughout the beach volleyball world,” and is mentioned by many AVP players as “the one to go to.”

CHECK IT OUT YOURSELF! Friday, Saturday and Sunday Aug. 7, 8 & 9, 2015 Seaside, Oregon www.seasidebeachvolleyball.com

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Finding yourself on

OREGON’S BEACHES Story by Matt Love • Illustration by Sally Lackaﬀ

n the spring of 1997, not long after my 33rd birthday, I awakened in my Portland loft to the reality that I craved a total revolution of my mind, body and spirit. Truly, I was lost as a human being and unable to envision a path to fulfilling any of my dreams. I had always wanted to become a writer, a spiritual person and an Oregonian of merit, but life in Portland distracted me at every turn. On a whim, I accepted a teaching job at a small rural school on the Oregon Coast, needing to believe something transformative might happen to me. I honestly felt this was my last shot at doing something important with my life. Something did happen after heading west. I met the beach, we fell in love, and it has since become the greatest creative, spiritual and sensual force in my life. But my transformation only manifested because I live in Oregon, and long ago the state decided to forge an exceptional path by protecting its ocean beaches — its “great birthright” as former Oregon Gov.

Oswald West defined it — from privatization. That exceptional path also guaranteed public access to the beach — by law. A couple years after relocating to the coast, I started going to the beach all the time with my three big dogs, at all hours, in all weather, never paying a cent for the privilege of doing so. Strange, wonderful things unfolded at the beach, and I heard the “old sound of the ocean” as the poet Robinson Jeffers called it. In hearing the “old” I began hearing something new: a passion for living, caring and creating that heretofore I never knew existed within me. I also began writing about these very things. One day as I rambled down my favorite beach, Nestucca Spit, in Pacific City, I wondered aloud: “Why are Oregon’s beaches public and free to use, unlike most of the inhabited coastal places around the world I’ve visited?” My curiosity piqued, I started investigating this historical question. It took several years, but eventually I discovered my writing voice during this

process and unearthed the largely undocumented story of Oregon’s publicly owned beaches. And what an inspiring story it is, one that animates my life every day, probably because I walk on the beach every day. In 1912, years before U.S. Highway 101 opened, Oregon Gov. Oswald West rode a horse on a mail trail over Arch Cape and Neahkahnie MounI met the beach, tain on the North Oregon Coast. He later claimed the experience inspired him to, we fell in love, “(come) up with a bright idea … so I and it has since drafted a simple short bill.” The bill was a mere 66 words long, become the and when it became law in 1913 it degreatest creative, clared the wet sands areas of the spiritual and beaches, “a public highway and shall forever remain open as such to the pubsensual force lic.” in my life. In his memoir published in 1949, West wrote, “Thus came public ownership of our beaches. In the administration of this God-given trust, a broad protective policy should be declared and maintained.” West’s visionary law inaugurated a unique relationship between a state’s citizenry and a specific natural resource (our beaches) that stands virtually unparalleled in the country. He also wrote, “No local selfish interest, through politics

or otherwise, shall impair this great birthright of our people.” Oregon’s great birthright is its ocean beaches — publicly owned ocean beaches — and this ideal remained unassailable until a half century later when an unprecedented challenge arose to threaten the legacy. In the summer of 1966, an elderly couple and their nephew were kicked off the beach by a motel owner as they picnicked in front of the owner’s Cannon Beach motel. The owner claimed the couple was trespassing on his private property. They might have Gov. Oswald West been the first Oregonians in the state’s history to experience such a shock, and this affront touched off the epic 1967 legislative battle over the control of the dry sands areas of the beaches not covered by West’s 1913 law nor detailed with any precision in deeds.

Despite nearly dying in committee, the legislation eventually passed because of overwhelming public outcry, the relentless reporting of a journalist named Matt Kramer, and a unified stance from the state’s highest elected officials in support of publicly owned beaches. The law basically placed all the dry sands areas up to the native vegetation line (roughly 16 feet above median high tide) in the public trust and zoned it as a recreational space. Gov. Tom McCall signed the landmark and bipartisan Beach Bill into law and reaffirmed the state’s sacrosanct notion of publicly owned beaches. The statute empowered Oregon, “to forever preserve … ocean beaches of the state … so that the public may have the free and uninterrupted use thereof.” “To forever preserve … the free and interrupted use thereof” is pretty much as close to Oregon scripture as it gets for me, and it’s no hyperbole to say that I derive almost 100 percent of my spiritual and creative life from my constant presence on Oregon’s beaches. Had I not encountered the beaches in the manner that Oregon saw fit to protect them, nothing of consequence would have ever happened in my life. No books. No understanding of the universe. No grasp of my role in it. I intended to stay one year on the Oregon Coast. Now, I’m enjoying my 18th year in residence and estimate that I’ve rambled the great birthright close to 10,000 times and written a million words about my experiences. I’ve run into coyotes, sea lions, deer, sages, prophets, madmen, magic forts, eagles, herons, pelicans, whales, Ken Kesey’s ghost, holy fires, mermaids and a Sea God’s sculptures. I’ve inhaled salty fog and hurdled over rotting kelp. I let a millions gallons of rain erode the procrastinator I was in Portland. I saw everything through the keyhole of a limpet. I learned the definition of beauty and art and met the hardest of hardcore Oregonians walking in slanted sleet. I found myself and a literary voice.

Gov. Tom McCall looks at the Cannon Beach motel that ignited the discussion of Oregon's beach laws in 1967.

By the way, I’ve never paid a cent to use the great birthright. As it should be forever, lest we lose our way in Oregon, and become like everywhere else. Oregon’s beaches can help others find themselves, too. It all depends on what they seek: privacy, creativity, recreation, rain, solace, escape, confession, unpretentious family time, God, gods, contemplation, inspiration, transfiguration, transmogrification, an agenda-free zone, forgiveness, redemption, simplicity, passion, connection, maybe even a little fun hardly ever in the sun. Or perhaps they seek the unknown and want something unexpected to unfold in real time. Oregon’s beaches offer that as well, especially in the winter. Really, anything is possible because guaranteed access makes it possible, and access guarantees something tactile can happen.

Lewis & Clark National Historical Park EXPLORE • HIKE • ENJOY

92343 FORT CLATSOP RD | ASTORIA, OR | 503.861.2471 www.nps.gov/lewi facebook/LewisandClarkNationalHistoricalPark 30 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 31

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do see

Beauty in austerity Story by John Goodenberger • Photos by Alex Pajunas Small churches are a vanishing breed. A little over 100 years ago, the Columbia-Pacific region was filled with these one- or tworoom structures. Today, any effort to find them is worth the trip. The churches featured here span 72 years. Most were founded by immigrants who constructed their place of worship in a forest

34 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

clearing, on a beach or in an ethnic neighborhood. In each case, the buildings were built to stand apart from the landscape yet act as a place of reflection and inspiration. Typical of folk architecture, these buildings find beauty in austerity.

St. Mary’s Church Constructed in 1904 McGowan, Washington The location could hardly be a harsher one: jutting into the Columbia River’s mouth, gale-force winds sweeping across the landscape. Here, the Chinook people operated a centuries-old trade center, launching their boats from its strategic location. In 1805, the Lewis and Clark Expedition camped on its beach. In 1848, Father Louis Joseph Lionnet established a cedar-planked mission there. A few years later, Patrick J. McGowan began packing salmon on the site. The wood-framed Gothic-style church was constructed on a stone foundation: lifting it above the former beach and reconnecting it to views of the river. The nave is beautifully stark. Its interior is unpainted. Tongue-andgroove wraps the sanctuary in aged Port Orford cedar. The church’s clear windows bring unfiltered light into the worship space. And, there is no mechanical heat, running water or electricity in the building. A couple of architectural flourishes are worth mentioning. The balcony projects into the sanctuary with an elegant curve like that of a gillnet boat’s hull. And below the bell tower, a rosette window with colored glass casts a warm light onto the chancel. Viewing the interior: Mass is held at 6 p.m. on Sundays, May through September. Getting there: Two miles west of the north end of the Astoria Bridge. Turn left at the end of the bridge and follow U.S. Highway 101 two miles — the church will be on the right hand side.

There’s more to Discover Visit www.discoverourcoast.com for a more detailed look at these historic churches

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 35

do see

Oysterville Baptist Church Constructed in 1892 Oysterville, Washington Willard Espy, grandson of Oysterville’s founder, said it best, “I can watch the slow breathing of the bay: six hours in and six hours out.” Planted on a sliver of land between Willapa Bay and the Pacific Ocean, Oysterville is a restful, out-of-the-way hamlet where one can truly be content watching the bay. But within this community are some of the oldest houses in Pacific County, all constructed by early oyster investors. And if that is not enough to capture a visitor’s imagination, the Oysterville Baptist Church surely will. The eclectic, late-Victorian structure is a marvel. Weekly Baptist services ended in 1931.Thirty-five years ago, the Oysterville Restoration Foundation meticulously returned the building to its original glory. The Oysterville church shines in refinished woodwork, fresh paint and period-appropriate wall paper. Like others, it has no electricity or mechanical heating system. It doesn’t have plumbing either — which was a sore point during the dedication ceremony 123 years ago. Imagine, a Baptist church without plumbed water to fill its 3-foot-deep baptistry. In order to conduct the full immersion baptism, water was pumped from a nearby yard. Then, since there wasn’t a drain either, buckets were used to empty it. Subsequent baptisms were held “al fresco” in the bay.

Viewing the interior: The church remains unlocked for daily visitors. Non-denominational vespers are held Sunday afternoons during the summer. It is also used as an intimate venue during the annual Water Music Festival in October. Getting there: The church is located at 33590 Territory Road in Oysterville. The hamlet is 15 miles north of Long Beach. Follow Peninsula Highway 103 to the Oysterville junction. Turn right. The church will be on your left.

Gray Memorial Chapel Constructed in 1927 Warrenton, Oregon Warrenton’s broad dunes were home to the Clatsop people who hunted and fished along its slender finger lakes. In the 1840s, settlers arrived and converted the rolling landscape into farmland. In 1846, William H. Gray established what is now the oldest, continuous Presbyterian church west of the Rockies. A trail used by the Clatsop Indians, later used as a primitive highway for Portland excursionists, was also used by farmers to attend weekly services. That trail is now U.S. Highway 101. Much like today, early parishioners prided themselves on order and record keeping. However, the church’s first 30 years of documents were lost by the Rev. Matthew G. Mann, the congregation’s second pastor. One dark, foggy morning, he misstepped off an Astoria steamboat dock and fell into the river. As he struggled, he let go of a bag containing records and sermons thought to be “too dry to sink.” The current building was constructed many years later and is based on American Colonial designs. Commonly known as Pioneer Presbyterian Church, its brickclad facade, formal pedimented entry and soaring central spire are easy to spot from the highway. Don’t miss the cemetery behind the church. It includes graves of some of the area’s earliest settlers. The church and its cemetery make an ideal rest stop for visitors hiking Lewis and Clark National Historical Park’s Fort-to-Sea Trail. Viewing the interior: Services are held year round on Sunday mornings. Getting there: The church is located at 33324 Patriot Way in Warrenton. Drive south from Astoria on U.S. Highway 101. The church will be on the right side, adjacent to Camp Rilea military base, approximately four miles south of the new Youngs Bay Bridge.

36 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

2015 SEASON January 30 - February 21

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MIXED EMOTIONS

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Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 37

Finnish Holy Trinity Evangelical Lutheran Church

do see

Constructed in 1902 Deep River, Washington The gem of Deep River stands at the base of a forested hill. A narrow, winding road passes within a yard of its front steps. The church, set just above a field of grazing dairy cows, is both unpretentious and timeless in its simplicity. Finnish settlers in Naselle, Salmon Creek and Deep River organized the congregation in 1894. The Rev. J.J. Hoikka was its first pastor, preaching both there and in Astoria, commuting by boat between the communities. Erik Maunula, a farmer, donated the land. The Gothic-style church quickly became a social center for logging and fishing families. For historical purists, the building is in a jaw-dropping state of preservation: original interior finishes, a hand-crafted stepped pulpit, no electricity, no plumbing, and — most importantly — a concerted effort not to over-restore or update the facility. Its aged interior paint enhances the experience; visitors get a sense of the generations of working Finns who worshipped there. But, it is no accident. When the wood-framed building was threatened by benign neglect and potential destruction, the people of Deep River rallied. The result is a testament to their perseverance. They quietly maintained, repaired and restored it as necessary for generations. Viewing the interior: Holiday songfests are still held within the church. The authenticity of the nave lends a special air to Christmas choral concerts. Getting there: Located nine miles east of Naselle, Washington. Drive ﬁve miles east on Washington State Route 4, turn left onto East Deep River Road, drive one mile to Deep River, turn right onto West Deep River Road — the church will be on your right in one mile.

20 15

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Real Lewis & Clark Story 2015 Fridays & Saturdays 7pm April 3-4, 10-11, 17-18 Sundays 2pm • April 12 & 19

May Teen Theatre Show Friday & Saturday 7pm May 8 & 9, 15 & 16 Sundays 2pm • May 17

Tenor Guitar Gathering Sunday, May 31

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Viewing the interior: Services are held year round on Sunday mornings. Two congregations meet separately within the building: the Congregational United Church of Christ-First and the Paciﬁc Unitarian Universalist Fellowship Church. Getting there: The church is located at 820 Alameda Ave. in Astoria. From the Astoria roundabout, drive half a mile southeast on West Marine Drive to South Denver Avenue. Turn left. Follow Denver to Glasgow Aveue. Turn left. On Glasgow, go to West Niagara and turn right. Go one block and turn right. The church will be on the right-hand side.

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For a modern interpretation of worship space, consider the First Congregational Church. Its roots go back to 1896 when it emerged as the Finnish Evangelical Lutheran National Congregation. It adapted its affiliation as the congregation changed; in 1954, it called the Rev. Leon Thomson its first non-Finnish speaking pastor. The Finnish roots are relevant to the building’s form. It was constructed in 1964 and designed by Ebba Wicks: the “First Lady of Oregon” architect who was also of Finnish-Swedish descent. The graceful roofline recalls modern, folk-inspired Nordic churches. Constructed on a sloping site, the church is surrounded by houses first built for cannery workers, ship builders and the now historic “New Astorians.” Although rain-soaked winds have necessitated exterior alterations, the nave remains as originally inspired. After entering a low foyer, visitors are treated to a double-height nave where glu-lam beams rise steeply in an inverse arch. The ceiling is clad in unpainted tongue-and-groove wood, adding a sheltering, Northwest feel to the space. Behind the altar, a window stretches from floor to ceiling revealing views to Youngs Bay and Saddle Mountain. A wooden cross is mounted between its panes. Nothing distracts from the cross and the world beyond: not the rectilinear altar, not the spare pulpit, not even the mid-century-designed colored glass canned light fixtures. It’s a beautiful understated arrangement.

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live stay

Homes. Rentals. Hotels. Campgrounds.

OCEAN IN VIEW

At these four hotel picks, get the best views and find easy access to exploring coastal towns Story by MJ Cody • Photos by Alex Pajunas “Ocian in view! O! the joy,” wrote William Clark on sighting the Pacific Ocean in 1805. The euphoria soon faded as he, Capt. Meriwether Lewis, and their bedraggled crew settled in for a miserable winter on the Oregon Coast. I, too, have that heart-leaping joyful moment whenever I see the ocean. Fortunately, there’s no need to spend winter (or anytime) on the coast hunkered down in cold, wet, cramped quarters. Lodging for us can be anything we want from yurts and cozy cottages to lighthouse keeper’s homes and luxury hotels. For me, my lodging preference is pretty simple: the view. Hard to choose, but here are four favorites:

The Ocean Lodge Cannon Beach, Oregon “Ocian in view” indeed. William Clark’s emphatic phrase was premature, sighting the stormy, wave-tossed mouth of the Columbia rather than the expanse of the Pacific. But here in Cannon Beach, the ocean, punctuated by Haystack Rock, is in full panoramic splendor. I always feel welcome here, as though returning to visit an old friend. The Ocean Lodge is a family, pet- and ecofriendly hotel, casual and inviting with its everfilled cookie jar, continental breakfast, and a library full of books, movies and games. Adirondack chairs on the decks of front-facing rooms are excellent for ocean gazing, sunning, reading or dreaming. Storm watching is perfect here, cuddled cozy in front of the fireplace or on the beach, battered by wind and rain, laughing, because you know you have a safe and warm reprieve. Yearning for a beach bonfire with s’mores? Just ask. There’s family fun and romantic justthe-two-of-us packages from which to choose. Kids love the endless hours of surf jumping and sandcastle building; and a leisurely walk down the long beach will take you to town and the bustle of restaurants, shops and art galleries. Nearby Ecola State Park stretches nine miles along rugged coastline — a haven for tide-pooling, surfing, hiking, and oh! the views. Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 41

live stay

Adrift Hotel & Spa Long Beach, Washington

I’m always happy to come to this spare, witty hotel, re-invented from a standard motel into a refreshingly stylish vanguard, steps from the dunes overlooking the Pacific. Besides being environmentally conscious (organic toiletries, tea, coffee), the owners take pains to delight their guests offering all sorts of packages from breakfast baskets and beach bonfires to pet specials (yes, rooms for pets). For evening entertainment, terrific food and inspired drinks, meander to the top floor for the in-house restaurant, Pickled Fish, and live music. Then there are the bikes. First thing, even in a drizzle, I toss my bags in my room and head down to the lobby to check out a bike. It’s across the parking lot to Discovery Trail, an 8-mile path from Long Beach to Ilwaco. My bike and I speed south along the asphalt trail nearly four miles through the dunes, nothing but grasses riffling in the breeze, birds, and the ocean murmur for company. Our turnaround is Beard’s Hollow, where the open sky and dunes disappear

into a lush woodsy fen tucked into the mountainside. I could get in the car and explore the peninsula — historic Oysterville for fresh oysters and a trek through Willapa Bay National Wildlife Refuge, explore Cape Disappointment and the historic lighthouses, or head to the marina at Ilwaco to watch fishermen unload salmon. But honestly? My window and that bike.

Hillcrest Inn

Guest Lodging with Cape Cod Ambience

At the beach next to the golf course

Conveniently located near Cape Disappointment and the Port of Ilwaco for lighthouses and sport fishing • 26 clean rooms at economy rates with many efficiencies • Pet friendly • Corporate, family, team and educational group rates available

For Reservations Only

1-800-576-1032 P.O. Box 776, 126 Spruce • Hwy. 101 ILWACO, WA 98624

(360) 642-2387 www.heidisinnmotel.com

42 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

A Charming & Peaceful Respite Dog Friendly Rooms Available 1/2 Block to the Ocean, Promenade & Aquarium 2 Blocks to Restaurants & Shopping Beach House, Cottages, Suites, & Traditional Rooms WiFi • OutdoorBarbecue • In-room Coffee In-room Spas • Room Phones Fireplaces • Kitchens • Laundry • Sauna New Ownership

O cean -V iew C on d om in iu m s E asy W alk to th e B each In d oor Pool & Jacu zzi F ree H igh -Speed In tern et N igh tly R en tals

118 North Columbia • Seaside, OR 97138

Please call for our Off-Season Discounts

Reservations: 800-270-7659 www.seasidehillcrest.com

www.gearhartresort.com

(800) 547-0115

The Ocean Lodge 2864 Paciﬁc St. Cannon Beach, OR 97110 888-777-4047 www.theoceanlodge.com

Adrift Hotel & Spa 409 Sid Snyder Drive Long Beach, WA, 98631 800-561-2456 www.adrifthotel.com

Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa No. 10 Basin St. Astoria, OR 97103 888-325-4996 www.cannerypierhotel.com

Old Wheeler Hotel 475 U.S. Hwy. 101 Wheeler, OR 97147 877-653-4683 www.oldwheelerhotel.com

Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa Astoria, Oregon Gasp! The first time you see a ship glide past your window, you can’t help it. This is one spectacular location. The hotel sits on a pier jutting into the Columbia River, the stunning Astoria Bridge to your right and the forested hills of Washington state across that great expanse of blue water. This, and luxury too. Luxury with a conscience. Like Adrift, Cannery Pier’s owners are dedicated to environmental sustainability and community service. In the

evening, mingle with other guests over wine and local lox canapés; the next morning a continental breakfast featuring Finnish pastries and lattes. No need to get in your car to drive to dinner or the theater downtown — arrange for one of the hotel’s chauffeured vintage automobiles to deliver you in style. One can indulge at the spa with a couples massage or a champagne sunset cruise. A wildlife boating excursion offers close-up views of sea lions and eagles. Oh, bicycles, here too. It’s an easy cruise down the 5-mile Riverwalk along Astoria’s historic waterfront with restaurants, brewpubs, and the not-to-miss Columbia River Maritime Museum along the way. Don’t want to bike or walk? Take the historic 1913 Astoria Trolley, hop on and off to wander through town and explore Astoria’s eclectic shops, or sit back and enjoy the sights.

Sand & Sea

OCEANFRONT CONDOMINIUMS on the Promenade

C olu m bia Inn A storia,Oregon • W alk to R estau ran ts & S h o p p in g • C o ffee in R o o m s • H B O • S o m e R efrigerato rs & M icro w aves • N o n -S m o k in g R o o m s A vailab le • C o vered P ark in g • W I-F I A vailab le • 24 H o u r W ak e-U p C alls • C o m m ercial R ates A vailab le • D irect-D ial P h o n e

F u llK itchen • Ind oor P ool• G a s F irepla ce • Ba lconies D a ily R enta ls • 800-628-2371 • w w w .sa nd a nd sea oregon.com

503-325-42 11 B etw een 4th and 5th S t • 495 M arine D rive A storia w w w .colum biainnastoria.com

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Old Wheeler Hotel Wheeler, Oregon

You could drive right by this wayside town, a few blocks facing the highway, miss it in a wink — but don’t. For one thing, it’s an antiquing and quilting Mecca. For another, the tiny Rising Star Café is one of the best restaurants on the coast. There’s nearby surfing at Oswald West State Park, Neahkahnie Mountain hiking trails, and the findanything-under-the-sun CARTM recycling center (with the “Refindery” retail store). Even better, the town sits on Nehalem Bay with easy access to kayaking, crabbing and fishing. And Wheeler’s historic hotel is a gem. Décor features antiques in keeping with the hotel’s vintage feel, the staff is friendly, and you can enjoy an extended continental breakfast in the common room (or take a tray to your room) that includes locally sourced yogurt, coffee and cheeses. Oregon wines, chocolates, and regional treats are available in the hotel’s gift shop. The Old Wheeler Hotel is perched above shops with guest rooms

overlooking the expansive bay and sky that changes in color and tone from morn to night. The bay seems a stunning watercolor come to life and, yes, lucky you: a front-row seat. I imagine Clark would have run out of superlatives had the Corps of Discovery traveled south down our coast. “Oh! the joy,” is a mere beginning.

You can’t get any closer. Sleep Oceanfront & Closest to Haystack Rock Pet & Family Friendly

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Rejuvenating Spa

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Saltwater Pools

855 -424- 0130 | hallmarkinns.com Oceanfront Resort Properties in Cannon Beach & Newport, Oregon 44 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

1 4 1

w w w .Astoria PilotH ou se.com

1 Panoram

ic view ofth e C olu m bia River

1 L ocated in th e h eart of

A storia’s h istoric w aterfront

O n th e N ational RegisterofH istoric Places

Minutes from Downtown & Astoria Attractions 42 Room s • 14 D eluxe Kitchens • C a ble w ith H BO Colum bia RiverView • Free W ireless Internet

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1 103 14th Street,U pper Astoria ,O reg on 97103

(503)289-9926 or(888)683-7987

Su perb am enities in every room 1700 sq ft, 3 bed room ,3 bath Fou rFireplaces

Private balcony on the Columbia River

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 45

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at home

A GEARHART

CLASSIC Story by Dwight Caswell • Photos by Alex Pajunas

“It was total serendipity,” says Judy Redekop of the way she and her husband, Jake, found their home in Gearhart, Oregon.

n vacation from Arizona in 1992, the Redehops were driving up the coast on their way to Seattle when they saw a sign pointing toward Gearhart. “We said, ‘Let’s look at this little town,’” Judy recalls. While driving through Gearhart they saw a “for sale” sign on a Craftsman cottage near the golf course. “We had no intention of buying a house,” says Jake. But the couple nonetheless drove to the realtor’s office. It was after hours, but she was still in, and before long the house was theirs. Jake, now 80, had done his conscientious objector work during the Vietnam War at the Veterans ‘We started to redo the Administration hospital in Tucson, house. There was a lot stayed in Tucson while finishing his to do. It was not falling medical training, and then estab- down, but it was not lished his practice there as an orthoin good condition.’ pedic surgeon. Judy, 76, was a pediatric nurse during Jake’s residency, and then became a stay-at-home mom while doing enough volunteerism to be named a “woman of the year.” Several years of Jake’s childhood and adolescence were spent near Dallas, Oregon, and it was on family vacations that he was first introduced to the Oregon Coast. “I always wanted to come back here,” he says, “I love the seashore,” — of which there is very little in Tucson. The Redekops had talked about retiring to the coast, so perhaps it is not so surprising they found the house they did in 1992. They now spend four or five months of the year in Gearhart, and are thinking about eventually spending more time in the house to which they have devoted so much time and effort. “We started to accumulate furniture,” Judy remembers, and Jake adds, “We started to redo the house. There was a lot to do. It was not falling down, but it was not in good condition.”

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 47

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Jake recalls days spent in hard labor, removing black and white tiles that had been laid over beautiful, and now restored, fir wood floors. Built circa 1910, the house had been subjected to dubious “improvements” over the years. Sheets of “hygienic” plastic, painted pink and blue, covered the old beadboard in the kitchen, and when the Redekops remodeled the upstairs bathroom they found newspapers from the 1940s — the last time anything had been done to the bathroom. They’ve also redone the den and added a sunroom, which was designed by their son-in-law, London-based architect Les Koski. The work didn’t stop there. Since buying the house, the Redekops have transformed the garden, doing everything themselves except for care while they are in Tucson. “She’s the brains,” says Jake. “She makes it artistic. I’m just the brawn.” Judy demurs, “Jake does all the vegetable gardening.” They’ve redone the landscaping three times, trying to come to terms with the Oregon Coast after a lifetime of Tucson’s “blast furnace” gardening. The result: Their one-and-a-half lots have not only a garden, but also a small orchard. When they bought the house, there were not yet any Redekop grandchildren. Now there are five, and the sounds and activities of children are a constant presence in the old Gearhart home. The families of each of Jake and Judy’s three children make a visit during the summer. “We knew nothing about the town when we bought the house,” Judy says, “and we were delighted to find it was a great community.” They did, however, discover a problem that many retirees have: with no kids in school and no job, there are fewer occasions to meet people. This problem turned out to be an easy one to solve. Judy joined the American Association of University Women, which she finds, “a good social outlet and an opportunity to meet other people.” They hired someone to mow their lawn, which led to further introductions.

G uided Tours

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48 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

Their discovery of the Astoria Music Festival led to what is perhaps the Redekops’ most significant participation in the larger North Coast community. Life-long devotees of classical music — especially opera — they were “amazed to find a festival of this quality in a small town,” says Jake. He sites the festival’s 2010 production of Alban Berg’s difficult opera “Wozzeck” as an example of the festival’s daring and high caliber. Here they met people with common interest, to the extent that Jake is now a member of the festival’s President’s Council. The year’s most important event in Gearhart is the iconic small town Fourth of July parade. To celebrate Independence Day, half the good folk of Gearhart put bunting on their bicycles, pony carts, and rolling tiki bars, and sometimes wear jellyfish or other appropriate costumes, then march through the town — while the other half lines the street to watch. The parade ends in rather short order at the fire department, where everyone eats hot dogs. You may not be a true Gearhart community member unless you’re there for the parade, and Judy is an enthusiastic participant, marching with the AAUW “Gearhart Streetwalkers” while Jake watches from the sidelines. For the Redekops, Gearhart is not simply where their summer residence is located. They are at home, and it’s not just the parade that makes them feel that way. Their daughter, Kathryn, was married in the garden 10 years ago. After a long hiatus from golf due to the pressures of his medical practice, Jake has again taken up his golf clubs and occasionally walks to the course for a round. It’s the comfortable, everyday things that make the Redekops’ classic beach Craftsman once again home to a Gearhart family.

ANN & TONY KISCHNER’S

B I S T R O

Casual Fine Dining LUNCH & DINNER Seafood Steaks • Pastas Salads • Chowder BANQUETS • CATERING “GOLDEN2008 FORK AWARD” OREGON LOTTERY Gerry Frank, The Oregonian

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1414 Marine Dr. • Astoria www.smileastoria.com

JEFFREY M. LEINASSAR, DMD, FAGD

NEW PATIENTS WELCOME Emergencies Welcome Ava ila b le fo rCru ise Sh ip G u ests 1105 COMMERCIAL ST. ASTORIA

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The Perfect Ocean Getaway

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B rin g th is a d in to receive open every day lunch . dinner. sunday brunch 503.325.6777 • bridgewaterbistro.com on the river • 20 basin st • astoria or

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Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 49

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Hear why locals call our coast home

MY COAST Interviews & Photos by Damian Mulinix

MARY DELASALANDRA Artist and designer • Astoria, Oregon “We actually fell in love and met in Astoria,” Mary says, speaking of her and her husband. “Things had changed so much (in Portland, where they had lived most of their adult life). We kept looking a little farther out of Portland, and a little farther. So when we found this place, I said ‘Oh, isn’t that wonderful.’ This magic kind of thing kept happening. Two hours from Portland, that’s not bad — it’s closer than France (where they had lived most recently). The weather is wonderful, which is usually the ﬁrst thing people complain about. Astoria has an appeal for ‘Portlandites.’ It’s like their little secret place, you know?”

JOE DOUPE Retired teacher • Seaview, Washington “I grew up in Ilwaco, moved away for 10 years, swore I’d never come back. I worked in Florida, Alaska, Seattle. I thought I’d teach pottery in college. Had a horrible student teaching experience. Ended up walking the docks in Seattle, got hired to prepare power scows to go to Alaska. My dad said ‘You should really come down here and use your teaching certiﬁcate.’ I did, and just immediately fell in love with it. For 32 years straight I kept my teaching job and loved every minute of it. In the meantime, I kind of developed an appreciation for the (Long Beach) Peninsula that I’d never had before. Having grown up here you like it, but you don’t appreciate it as much as when you’ve been away. I came back and saw it with new eyes.”

50 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

KAREN EMMERLING Owner, Beach Books • Seaside, Oregon “My husband and I bought a house in Gearhart as a beach house in 1988, and we found it was harder and harder to go home on the weekends. And then our kids kind of spoiled things by getting old enough to have to go to school. We decided to move here full time because we love the area; we love being able to walk our dogs every morning on the beach. The community was a great place to raise our children. And when I opened the book store (in 2005), I found the Seaside business community to be very wonderful and welcoming.”

SALLY FREEMAN Volunteer coordinator • Lewis and Clark National Historical Park “I’ve lived here part-time since 1989 and full-time since 1998. (I have a) very good job working at a wonderful little national park. It’s a neat story of Paciﬁc Northwest history. The expedition was so well documented that we can know details about it that we don’t know about so many other things that happened in history. I’m the volunteer coordinator; I get to be the historic weapons supervisor; I get to work with great people. There is something kind of addictive about the Lewis and Clark Expedition that I think catches a lot of people.”

STU SIMONSON Utility worker, surfer • Chinook, Washington “Fishing brought me here. Was living in Hawaii, got a full-time job on a crab boat here. We were looking to settle down as a young couple on this side of the river (in 1999). To us it was very appealing, being kind of a small town. I grew up in a small town. But really the clincher was, there was surf — and good surf at times. That’s really what sealed the deal. As we’ve lived here longer, our kids have thrived here. Our families have all migrated here. And we love it because there’s just endless things to do for our outdoor lifestyle. If you’re willing to brave the rain and get out there, it’s just a beautiful place to live.”xxxxxx

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 51

PHOTO BY LYNETTE RAE MCADAMS

live stay

There’s more to Discover For more information on the campgrounds listed: Visit www.discoverourcoast.com

CAMPING ON OUR COAST Story by Lynette Rae McAdams & Rebecca Sedlak

rom the primitive sites deep within our state and county forests, to the plush accommodations of a modern KOA — there’s a campground on our coastline with just the dose of Mother Nature you’ve been looking for.

No matter the season, outdoor lodging is always within reach, and now, you can have your s’mores and eat them too. Whether you’re looking to blaze a trail, watch the stars, or simply hit the beach, this quiz will guide you to the

70 years serving visitors in Long Beach LARGE GRASSY SITES • GROUP MEETING HALL WALK TO DOWNTOWN • STROLL TO THE BEACH WIFI & CABLE TV ACCESS

cleanest bathrooms, the hottest showers, and the driest firewood for miles around. Whether you’re hiking in, plugging in, or pitching a tent; packing trail mix and a canteen, or goose down pillows — here’s to happy camping!

WESTGATE Cabins & RV Park ON THE BEACH 7 Miles North of Long Beach

For Reservations:

PO Box 296, Long Beach, WA 98631 Call: 1-888-567-1902 Local: 360-642-2711

OPEN ALL YEAR

(360) 665-4211

Ocean Front Cabins

PACIFIC AVENUE, LONG BEACH, WA AT 14TH STREET NORTH

DirecTV/WiFi • full RV hook-ups • fish/clam cleaning rooms restrooms/ showers • laundry • recreation room w/kitchen & fireplace

www.driftwood-rvpark.net

52 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

Klipsan Beach 20803 Pacific Way • Ocean Park, WA 98640

WHAT KIND OF CAMPING EXPERIENCE ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Not going to lie, I like amenities.

Road tripping my way down the coast.

No, I’m more excited about exploring small towns along the way.

No! I need an on-site camp store — I’m also out of ice!

Yes, my kids had that packed ﬁrst.

Surrounded by trees and nature.

Is beautiful scenery a priority?

Did you bring your s’mores stuﬀ?

GRAPHIC BY JOHN D. BRUIJN

Will you need to take a shower?

Absolutely, I’ve got my camera ready.

Travelling by RV or Car? Is Wi-Fi access indispensible?

Do you need a playground or a game room?

Deﬁnitely. (Those kids have a lot of energy.)

No, I never check screens when I’m camping.

No, but I could use an organized walk with a ranger.

Food? Shopping?

Absolutely a must.

Car

That sounds nice!

Do you want to be oﬀ the beaten track? Fancy a yurt?

Sign me up!

No, I’m looking for the classic coastal views. Yes.

Bicycles

Nah, I prefer to be au naturel.

Would you rather ﬁsh or go for a bike ride?

No, I want to be under the stars, lulled to sleep by the sound of the ocean.

Yes, and I’m prepared to rough it! Fishing

FAMILY

NEARBY ACTIVITIES

AMENITIES

RUSTIC

Cape Disappointment State Park

Ilwaco KOA

Cape Disappointment State Park

Bruceport County Park

Ilwaco, Washington www.parks.wa.gov

Ilwaco, Washington www.koa.gov

Ilwaco, Washington www.parks.wa.gov

Bay Center, Washington www.willapaharbor.org/parks

Fort Stevens State Park

Wildwood Campground and RV Park

Fort Stevens State Park

Gnat Creek Campground

Hammond, Oregon www.oregonstateparks.org

Long Beach, Washington www.wildwoodcampsites.com

Hammond, Oregon www.oregonstateparks.org

Knappa, Oregon www.oregon.gov/odf

Nehalem Bay State Park

Wright’s for Camping

Nehalem Bay State Park

Hiker’s Camp (Oregon Coast Trail)

Manzanita, Oregon www.oregonstateparks.org

Cannon Beach, Oregon www.wrightsforcamping.com

Manzanita, Oregon www.oregonstateparks.org

Cannon Beach, Oregon www.oregonstateparks.org

Astoria KOA

Nehalem Bay State Park

Astoria KOA

Nehalem Falls Campground

Hammond, Oregon www.astoriakoa.com

Manzanita, Oregon www.oregonstateparks.org

Hammond, Oregon www.astoriakoa.com

Nehalem, Oreogn www.oregon.gov/odf

Bay Center KOA

Western Lakes Recreation Area

Bay Center, Washington www.koa.com

Naselle, Washington www.dnr.wa.gov

Ilwaco KOA

Ilwaco, Washington www.koa.gov

Wildwood Campground and RV Park

Vista Park

Long Beach, Washington www.wildwoodcampsites.com

Skamokawa, Washington www.vista-park.org

Wright’s for Camping Cannon Beach, Oregon www.wrightsforcamping.com

303 Sid Synder Drive, Long Beach, WA 360-642-4020 www.worldkitemuseum.com A great destination for fun for all! Experience the history and art of kites through video and interactive elements. Make your own kite and fly it here on the world’s longest beach! Visit today!

Featuring:

• Bold heroes and story characters on kites from Japan • Delicately painted Chinese silk kites • Kites that saved lives in WWII • Videos of various Asian kite fighting celebrations

AHAB OUTDOOR WARNING SYSTEM During a routine TEST of the system, the siren will play the Westminster Chimes followed by a voice message. Upon issuance of a TSUNAMI WARNING the siren will play a wail sound and a voice message will follow advising a tsunami warning has been issued.

The AHAB outdoor warning system is tested on the first Monday of every month at noon.

Visit Our Museum Store for:

Admission Includes Kite Making! Open Daily, 11am to 5pm April to September Open Friday - Tuesday 11am to 5pm October - March

• Kites for flying on the beach • Books about kite making, flying & history • Postcards, T-shirts, jewelry & posters

Pacific County Emergency Management Agency 360-875-9340 • 360-642-9340 P0 Box 27 • 300 Memorial Drive South Bend, WA 98586 http://www.co.pacific.wa.us/pcema

JOIN THE FUN IN LONG BEACH volunteer • watch • participate • enjoy!

Have you registered for the Pacific County Emergency Notification System? REGISTER TO RECEIVE EMERGENCY NOTIFICATIONS VIA CELLULAR PHONE, TEXT MESSAGE, EMAIL, AND/OR TDD OR UPDATE YOUR LANDLINE INFORMATION AT: http://www.co.pacific.wa.us/pcema/Notification.htm

Razor Clam Festival...Martin Luther King Jr. Weekend .........................April 18-19, 2015 Loyalty Days...weekend of the first Sunday in May ......................................May 2-3, 2015 Summerfest......................................................Every weekend, Memorial Day - Labor Day Columbia-Pacific Farmers Market ..........................................Friday’s 4-7pm, June-Oct Beach to Chowder Walk/Run & Discovery Trail Half Marathon..........June 20, 2015 Doggie Olympic Games ........................................................................June 26-27, 2015 Sandsations & CitySands........................................................................July 15-19, 2015 Jake the Alligator Man’s 75th Annual Birthday Bash..........................Aug 7-8, 2015 Holidays at the Beach...NEW WEEKEND.....................................................Dec 5-6, 2015

“Putting Something Back Into The Community”

LONG BEACH MERCHANTS’ ASSOCIATION

54 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

longbeachmerchants.com

HGTV’s Beachfront Bargain Hunt chose Pacific Realty’s Leslie Brophy to be their guide to the Long Beach Peninsula. Now let PACIFIC REALTY be YOUR guide. If you are looking to buy a Grand Home, a Beach Cabin or your own Piece of the Beach, CALL US TODAY! 102 NE Bolstad - Long Beach, WA 360-642-3127 - 800-349-5446 www.pacreal.com - longbeach@pacreal.com

Member NWMLS

MARSH’S FREE MUSEUM A place where troubles are forgotten and laughs and smiles are free!

A Few Quotes From Some of Our Visitors:

Come in and Ask for Your

FREE

Seashell

Seeing Is Believing!

Check out our New Exhibits for 2015!

“1 of 10 great places for monstrous encounters” – USA Today “A truly fun place to browse and shop, with something bizarre around every corner. Outstanding music box and vintage arcade collection. Something for everyone.” – People Magazine “Marsh’s Free Museum is a world class side show” – Tacoma Tribune

You gotta’ see Jake the alligator man!

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“Scientists’ call bizarre creature the missing link.” – Weekly World News “Going to Marsh’s Free Museum is a bit like watching Ben Hur. Every time you do you see something new.” –Daily Astorian Peninsula’s #1 Family Attraction!

SO INTERESTING SOME PEOPLE NEVER LEAVE!

Bulk Candy & Taffy with coupon only

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OFFER GOOD 1/1/15 TO 3/1/15 AND 10/1/15 TO 12/31/15 (ONE COUPON PER FAMILY)

Open 7 Days, Ample Parking, Downtown Long Beach, WA 360-642-2188 Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 55

CGC

FINANCIAL SERVICES

LLC

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C G C F in a n cia l Services b elieve th e k ey to h a n d lin g in vestm en ts is k n ow in g the goa ls a n d a m b ition s of ou r in vestors.

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Casey Cleveland

Glen Clemans Jamieson Grabenhorst

CG C FIN AN CIAL Telepho n e: 503.670.1958 5 Cen terp oin te Drive, S u ite 270, La k e O s w eg o, O R 97035 w w w.cg cfin a n cia ls ervices .com “Securities an d advisory services offered through RoyalAllian ces Associates,In c.M em ber FIN RA & SIPC an d a registered investm ent advisor.Addition aladvisory services offered through CGC Fin an cialServices,a registered investm en t advisor n ot affiliated w ith Royal Allian ce Associates,In c.”

OPEN Y EA ROUND R-

MAY-SEP

T. 10am -6pm OCT.-AP RIL 10

am-4pm

Military Museum & Gift Shop • Memorial Rose Garden Living History Programs • Self-Guided & Guided Tours • Underground Batteries

THE FRIENDS OF OLD FORT STEVENS, a non-profit organization, supports the maintenance and preservation of the Ft. Stevens Historical Area. Much of our funding comes from proceeds from the museum store, guided tours, special events and camp wood sales.

1863

1947

503-861-1470 Ft. Stevens State Park, Hammond, OR $ 5 State Park Day-Use Fee

OREGON’S DEFENDER Museum Store Website www.visitftstevens.com • foofs@teleport.com 56 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

EMERALD HEIGHTS

A PARTMENTS M o n d a y -Frid a y 9a m -5p m N O APPO IN TM EN T N ECES S ARY fo rm o re in fo rm a tio n ca ll

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Feasts. Eateries. Libations. Recipes.

Buoy’s Best

In search of the perfect

clam chowder Story by Lynette Rae McAdams • Photos by Alex Pajunas

It’s been said that the call of the sea is strong — that for each of us, there exists a kind of primordial draw to the nearest shore: fresh ocean breezes, salty and clean; peaceful walks on endless beaches; the ancient rhythm of the crashing waves. To be sure, those are all very nice, but let’s be honest: That proverbial lure? It’s really all about the clam chowder. No pilgrimage to the sea is complete without a sampling of that delicious and ubiquitous soup of the coast — a steaming bowl of briny goodness that works wonders for both palate and soul. But with a bevy of restaurants all touting “world famous” and “award-winning” chowders, how do you find the one that truly fits the bill? Here’s a tip: There’s no such

thing as “the best” clam chowder. The only chowder that matters is the one that’s best for YOU. Maybe you like it thick — the potatoes chunky, your spoon practically standing on end. Or perhaps you’re looking for something a bit more delicate, a little lighter in texture. Do you insist on bacon? Do you delight in fresh herbs? Does your satisfaction hinge on a clam count, or are you willing to sacrifice quantity for tenderness? Might you savor a tiny cup, dear reader, or must your bread bowl runneth over? Whatever your pleasure, read on; the following guide highlights a variety of outstanding regional chowders, helping ensure you match up with the perfect fit.

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 57

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Mo’s Restaurant

Full Circle Café

Neah-Kah-Nie Bistro

Hearty & Stout

delicate & brothy Smooth & creamy

Mo’s Restaurant

Baked Alaska

The Ship Inn

195 Warren Way, Tolovana Park, Cannon Beach, Oregon Lunch and dinner; cup, bowl, family style, or bread bowl There’s a magniﬁcent touch of bacon in this medium-thick chowder — an Oregon Coast staple since the mid-1940s. It’s rich and smoky, with fall-apart potatoes. For a tangy treat, order it in a Cannonball sourdough bread bowl, made in-house.

No. 1 12th St., Astoria, Oregon Lunch and dinner; cup or bowl Smooth and perfectly salty, with just a wisp of smokiness and a lovely, light consistency. Every spoonful has a delicate clam ﬂavor, and satin-like potatoes dissolve on the tongue.

No. 1 Second St., Astoria, Oregon Lunch and dinner; cup or bowl Extraordinarily creamy, with a smooth, buttery background. Thin-sliced rounds of potato lend a subtle heartiness, and a pleasing undertone of spices makes this a great choice for coastal comfort food. (The ﬁreplace and river view don’t hurt, either.)

Charlie’s Chowder House

The Depot Restaurant

Norma’s Seafood & Steak

1335 Marine Drive, Astoria, Oregon Lunch and early dinner; cup or bowl Loaded with chunky potatoes and tons of TLC (tender little clams), this is the working ﬁsherman’s choice for heartiness. One steaming bowlful satisﬁes for hours, with slabs of bacon and a robust seasoning of pepper. The addition of bay shrimp sweetens the pot.

1208 38th Place, Seaview, Washington Dinner only; by the bowl It’s fair to say that clams the world over would ﬁght to be included in this beautifully light, brothy chowder. Razor clams and Willapa Bay steamers bathe luxuriously with the ﬂavors of garlic, fennel and cream, and each made-to-order bowlful is a splash of true gastronomic bliss.

Castaway’s Seafood Grille

The Full Circle Café

Buoy’s Best Restaurant

208 Pacific Ave., Long Beach, Washington Lunch and dinner; cup, bowl, bread bowl, take-home quarts Thick is the key word here. Not that pasty, sludgy kind of thickness — No! — but the gluten-free good kind, where hearty chunks of potato swim in a salty broth with more clams than you can possibly count. A strong hit of herbs punches up the ﬂavor.

1024 Bay Ave., Ocean Park, Washington Lunch only; cup, bowl, or 36-oz. tureen Made exactly the same way since 1978, this perennial favorite has medium thickness and maximum ﬂavor. Evenly sized pieces of bacon, celery, onion, potatoes and clams come together in perfect harmony. The addition of corn adds a whisper of sweetness.

1800 S. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside, Oregon Lunch and early dinner; cup, bowl, take home Authentic, fresh, and simple, with clams aplenty! This slightly thick favorite sells out quickly each day, so go early. Seating is limited; order at the counter and take it to go. (Happiness is a car picnic with hot chowder and a water view.)

There’s no such thing as “the best” clam chowder. The only chowder that matters is the one that’s best for you. 58 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

20 N. Columbia St., Seaside, Oregon Lunch and dinner; cup or bowl With 38 years of chowder experience, time is deﬁnitely on the side of this Seaside tradition. Flavorful and thick, this cream-laden concoction is entirely pork-free. But don’t worry, you won’t miss it — a gazillion clams will keep you too happy to care.

Neah-Kah-Nie Bistro 519 Laneda Ave., Manzanita, Oregon Lunch and dinner; cup or bowl Velvety smooth and oh-so-rich, this delectable, spooncoating chowder is the place where clams and bacon ﬁnd true love and marry in the chapel of butter and cream. Fresh herbs add a seasonal touch. (And they all lived happily ever after…)

Happy-As-A-Clam Chowder This one-pot recipe is the undeniable Goldilocks of chowders — not too thick, not too thin, bursting with clams, and easily tailored to your liking. Keep it simple, or chef it up with optional add-ins, like bacon, corn or fresh herbs. Prep time: 20 minutes Start-to-finish: about an hour Yields: 12 cups

Ingredients 4 tablespoons butter 1 large onion (3 cups), chopped medium 3 celery stalks, tops included (1 ½ cups), chopped small 2 cloves garlic, slivered 1 small Russet potato (1 cup), peeled and diced small 4 medium yellow potatoes (5 cups), chopped into half-inch cubes Dash of hot sauce 1 Bay leaf 1 quart clam juice 1 ½ cups heavy cream (or half-and-half) 2 cups chopped clams (24 oz., fresh or canned) Salt and pepper to taste

Directions In a medium stock pot over medium-high heat, melt the butter and sauté onion until almost golden. Add celery and garlic and cook until softened. Add potatoes, hot sauce and Bay leaf, then pour in clam juice to cover. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and cook until potatoes are tender, about 15-20 minutes. Pour in the cream and add the clams, then simmer (do not boil) over low heat, about 15 minutes more. Season with salt, to taste, then serve hot with a swirl of butter and a grind of fresh pepper. *For thicker chowder, add Roux or a cornstarch slurry.

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beer, wine & spirits

distilling CREATIVITY

You think craft beer is in style? Check out these craft distilleries. Story by Dwight Caswell • Photos by Alex Pajunas

“I just want to be unique,” says Mike Selberg, owner of Cannon Beach Distillery, “I want to be recognized as an artist.” Not only are the spirits he produces unique, they can be found only at the distillery. Lawrence Cary is also producing a distinctive product, 25 miles north in Astoria at North Coast Distilling. “Far and away, it’s our taste profile that sets us apart,” he says, but the ultimate goal of this entrepreneur “is to be a bigger player in this industry.” The business goals of the two distillers may be different, but the search for quality and uncommon character is the same. They are also part of a trend. Forty years ago small wineries appeared on the scene, challenging the wine industry by returning to basics to produce wines of greater interest than those then dominating the market. Twenty years ago craft breweries appeared on the scene doing much the same thing, and “brewpub” was added to the national lexicon. In the last decade, artisan distilling has, inevitably, arrived.

“I’d rather make something delicious than follow the rules.”

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 61

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TOP: Mike Selberg, owner of Cannon Beach Distillery, ﬁlls bottles with rum at his downtown Cannon Beach location. BOTTOM: Lawrence Cary, owner of North Coast Distilling, pours a glass of absinthe inside his Astoria tasting room.

62 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

These changes in the alcohol industry represent a movement that is gathering momentum, to bring back individuality and taste to what we eat and drink in the face of homogenization. There are rules a distiller must follow if he is to make, for example, a bourbon. There must be a sour mash of at least 51 percent corn and a minimum of two years aging in heavily charred American white oak barrels. There is another set of rules for tequila, and so on. This is why Selberg says, “I’d rather make something delicious than follow the rules. I want to progress my distillery.” A whiskey is any beverage distilled from grains; there are no other rules. As a result, Selberg has aging in his barrels whiskeys made from six different malted grains, including oats, something of a new departure in distilling. >>

Cannon Beach Distillery 255 N. Hemlock St., building C, Cannon Beach, Oregon Tasting room hours vary seasonally, so call ahead: 503-436-0301. The distillery produces rum, gin, an agave spirit and whiskey. Product availability varies as the distiller tries new tricks (“and a few secrets,” he says), but it’s always good. Expect pleasant surprises.

Mike Selberg’s rule for cocktails: If you want to drink a real cocktail and a real spirit, build the cocktail around good liquor and keep it simple. His favorite summer cocktail, a margarita: lemon juice, lime juice, enough sugar to cut the tartness, and 2-3 ounces of Il Keyote Spirit. Don’t be afraid to experiment – “it’s all up for interpretation.”

North Coast Distilling 1270 Duane St., Astoria, Oregon Tasting room hours: 3 to 6 p.m. Thursday and Friday; 1 to 6 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. The distillery produces vodka, gin, rum and moonshine, with new products added regularly. Again, expect pleasant surprises.

Lawrence Cary also likes to keep it simple. Here’s a nice summer drink, the dark and stormy: squeeze a quarter of a lime into a tall glass with ice. Add 2 ounces of Shanghaied rum, and ﬁll the glass with ginger beer. LEFT: The still at North Coast Distilling in Astoria is visible from the tasting room. PHOTO BY JOSHUA BESSEX

Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 63

eat drink Selberg has been distilling in Cannon Beach for slightly over two years, and also offers two rums, two gins and “Il Keyote Spirit,” a fruity, floral distillation, aged in white oak, that is not a tequila, although it is made from organic blue weber agave. The American Distilling Institute represents craft distillers, and in 2014 Cannon Beach Distillery’s Dorymen’s Rum took home the big prize in the institute’s annual competition: the gold medal for best overall spirit. Dorymen’s is made in a cognac stye from organic blackstrap molasses. “If you’d told me a few years ago that I was going to win a medal like this,” says Selberg, “I would have said maybe in 10 years or 20. It’s still something that’s hard to wrap my head around.” The future seems bright for this distillery. “With small batches,” Selberg says, “I get to evolve very quickly. I get better and better every month.” North Coast Distilling began producing its “spirits of the coast” in 2013, and opened its Astoria tasting room in January 2014. Lawrence Cary sees craft distilling as introducing new quality and creativity to the industry. “We’re a house of brands,” he says of North Coast Distilling, meaning that he produces several lines of spirits, each with its own brand: Bar Pilot, Painted Lady, and Shanghaied. Each brand will represent distinctive styles. Bar Pilot Gin, for example, is a London dry style, while Painted Lady Gin is a new American botanical style (“It makes a helluva martini,” says Cary).

As the distillery grows, there will be a greater range of spirits within each brand. Recently, a rum was added to the Bar Pilot line because the Columbia River bar pilots for whom the brand is named asked for one. “We’re coming up with new things all the time,” says Cary. He’s experimenting with different barrels for aging and different sources of ingredients — and his experimentation goes beyond spirits. “I make my own tonics and shrubs (drinking vinegars),” he says. A line of them — including flavors such as raspberry, orange ginger, and balsamic strawberry cracked pepper — are available through Grumpy Dog Shrub Co. Cary’s experimentation has already served him well. He recently won silver and bronze in the flavored vodka categories of the Great American Distilleries Festival in Portland for his Bar Pilot jalapeño lime- and cucumber-flavored vodkas, respectively. The growing list of flavored vodkas also includes strawberry cucumber, cocoa mint, lemon ginger, chai, and gummy bear. For Halloween 2014, he even released a candy corn flavor. North Coast Distilling has spared no expense. ”Everything we do,” says Cary, “and all our equipment: It’s top of the line, and that’s reflected in every bottle we sell.” More important may be Cary’s talent for keeping the product uniform as he scales up the volume. As to Cary’s goal to be a player in the industry, his products are already available in three states and one Canadian province; who knows what the future holds?

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WILLAPA DREAMIN’ Adventurous oyster growers: Having a delicious time since the 1850s Story by Matt Winters • Photos by Damian Mulinix

van Doig, master imaginer of the Pacific Northwest, has been attracted to Willapa Bay time and again, sensing here an intersection between history and drama. His first book, “Winter Brothers: A Season at the Edge of America,” told of the first efforts by whites to build lives around the delicious riches of the bay. We’re indebted to 19th century diarist James Swan for what we know of these adventures, which Doig drolly suggests “amounted more to an episode of prolonged beachcombing than a serious effort at enterprise.” “I have prowled the Washington coastline where Swan plopped ashore at the end of 1852, and a misted, spongy, oozeful kind of place it is. On the western rim of bay what appears from a distance to be a line of white-gabled houses proves 68 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

to be the foaming surf of the Pacific. The salt water reaches hungrily in through this entrance and in a momentous splatter of inlets and fingers, the bay lying stretched from north to south for 25 miles and nearly 10 across its greatest width, mingled with the inflow of half a dozen sizable rivers and who knows how many creeks and seeps. This mix yields a maximum of tan marshes and grey, muddy tideflats, 27 of these Shoalwater sloughs having been granted names by mapmakers and almost as many more not thought worth the effort. Yet around its eastern extent the squishy bay surprises a visitor with sudden firm timber-topped cliffs about a hundred feet high. Banks of a sandy clay, Swan once characterized them, intermingled with strata of shells and remains of ancient forest-trees that for ages have been buried.

Called Pacific oysters on the Northwest’s outer coast, these are the backbone of Washington state’s thriving shellfish industry, which accounts for a quarter of all U.S. production and around $108 million a year in sales.

“All in all,” Doig continues, “a vast estuarine pudding in a clay bowl. One of the few ascertainable advances since Swan’s time has been the amendment of the big shallow bay’s name from Shoalwater to the less embarrassing Willapa.” Most visitors today aren’t likely to understand Doig’s pudding analogy except during a very low tide, when parts of the bay look like an enormous recently drained mud puddle. For a first-hand experience of Willapa pudding, you’ll need to hitch a ride on an oyster dredge and try to walk on the portions of it abandoned to mud shrimp. In pursuit of microscopic menu items, these alien-looking shrimp churn the bottom into a quicksand-like muck that seems to extend downward to the center of the earth. In fact, the more industrious oystering carried on today might be all that keeps the entire bay from turning into this pudding. Meanwhile, the political activism of oystermen has kept the shoreline mostly free of Puget Sound-like development. After three years on the bay, Swan carried away with him a lifelong affection for its pioneer oystermen, whom Doig describes as a “boozy bunch who did as much roistering as oystering.” Larking around one July 4th, they accidentally set off a raging forest fire that kept burning until the winter rains arrived. Nowadays, no more boozy or sober than any of the rest of us, oyster growers are evangelists for clean water and wise watershed stewardship. This has been spurred by generations of struggle, starting with an industrial near-death experience a century ago when over-exploitation and environmental degradation nearly spelled extinction for the native Olympia oysters on which the business was founded. An initial attempt to shock the business back to life with transplanted eastern oysters also faltered, before at last a native Japanese variety was discovered to be ideally suited to the bay. Called Pacific oysters on the Northwest’s outer coast, these are the backbone of Washington state’s thriving shellfish industry, which accounts for a quarter of all U.S. production and around $108 million a year in sales. Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 69

(Pacific oysters, too, are now threatened, as carbon dioxide emissions are absorbed by seawater, making it very slightly more acidic and impacting shell formation.) Partly because of protective attitudes, partly because of being out here on the far left edge of the continent, Willapa Bay and its oyster culture have an air of mystery. This isn’t a marketing ploy or affectation, but a genuine sensation of a place that completely occupies its very own time. It’s not that oystermen and women shun outsiders — at least not exactly — but they are an intensely busy and passionate tribe

We’re looking out for you!

that would just as soon be left alone. They are somewhat more likely to drink up the bay’s sil-

Most folks don’t realize that oysters are actually farmed, not just fished, in Willapa Bay. very light with their eyes than drink the rye whiskey of Swan’s time. Oyster growing and

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savoring the light are activities ill-suited to crowds. So, aside from being a famous author or gobbling Willapa oysters and steamer clams at fine restaurants in Pacific and Clatsop counties, how does a visitor get a sense of the real life of the bay? The answer used to be a variation on the old advice, “Ya gotta know somebody who knows somebody.” In other words, ask around and maybe someone would take mercy and invite you along for an unforgettable day on the bay. But this takes time and diplomatic finesse in short supply in modern life.

Fortunately, in the last year, an easier answer has come along in the form of Keith Cox, a descendant of the publisher of a locally acclaimed newspaper, the Ilwaco Tribune. Cox is a Hollywood professional, crewing on “The Hobbit” movies and more recently working on behindthe-scenes documentary content for Universal Studios’ new film, “Unbroken,” produced and directed by Angelina Jolie. His visual expertise and grasp of storytelling led to an extraordinary documentary on Willapa, “Oyster Farming in a Changing World.” It’s received nationwide praise. In her entertaining Oyster Stew blog, blog.harborislandoyster.com, North Carolina oyster writer and connoisseur Kim Wilt said, “Keith gets it. He gets the heart. He gets the grit. He gets the determination. Most importantly, he gets the pure joy of oyster farmers. He lets the oystermen and women tell their own stories: ‘The work is hard. The hours are long. But the life it makes for you is unequaled,’ says one. Says another, ‘It’s a life I chose.’ How many of us can really say that?” (A generous part of Cox’s Willapa portrait is available online at vimeo.com/77769466, and the complete package can be purchased at stonypix.com.) Cox’s pedigree in Pacific County journalism and history granted him exceptional access to the bay, its people and wildlife. Here is some of what he learned: You’ve spent countless hours documenting Willapa’s oyster industry. Are there any scenes that particularly stand out for you as epitomizing life on the bay? There are several scenes that play out in my mind. Sun shining, on a boat, drifting across the bay as the tide is at or near its highest, with an expansive view upon the horizon entirely surrounded by nature, with a slight breeze creating an almost calming ripple across the water, every sound heard is of the natural world, other than the mechanics of the boat we are standing on. As the farmer works their way back and forth across

their bed of oysters, picking up a load that will be hauled off to a processing plant, the work is monotonous and can be tiresome just like any job, but there is definitely a gratifying feeling, and gratefulness by all on the boat that you feel like you are truly experiencing the world at its best. Now add dark clouds, 40-mile-per-hour winds, rain terrorizing the bay, and the farmer has to do the same job, where just trying to keep the boat on track across their beds fighting against the wind is a task in itself. Maybe the perks don’t feel as rewarding, but yet somehow it still feels more satisfying than sitting behind a desk in an office. There is not one farmer who did not share that same sentiment with me as we discussed their work on the bay. In contrast to the seemingly enchanting vision of drifting across the bay as if on a joy ride as described above, I have to say I gained tremendous admiration for the farmers and workers alike, when I experienced them hand-picking oysters at

low tide. Bent over for basically two to three hours depending on the length of the tide run, making their way across the sandy or often soft muddy substrate of the bay, picking up oysters and putting them in big metal baskets, which will be picked up by boats later at high tide. It’s hard work, there is no question about it, and then add in the same weather conditions described above, and even add complete darkness into the mix, as this job is also achieved at times in the middle of the night (as they work with head lamps), and any envy seems to fade. I have to say, standing on an oyster bed in the middle of the bay, in pitch black at 3 a.m., knowing you are surrounded by miles of water all around you with only the sounds of nature, can provide an almost eerie feeling. And then when you realize in a couple hours as the tide comes back in filling up the estuary the exact spot you are standing will have so much water it can be 10 to 15 feet high — it’s almost mesmerizing really.

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www.beachartist.org Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 71

What are some places where a casual visitor can best observe oystering activities, such as dredges at work or guys out in the beds? Or is it possible to glean anything about oystering from a vantage point onshore? I will say, one of the things that brings me great joy with the oyster documentary project is people can now watch things that would otherwise not be possible, unless they jumped on a boat, or went out on the oyster beds with the oystermen. Since much of the work happens miles off shore, it can be difficult to observe. However, as I have described to many folks interested, once you know what the boats are doing out on the bay, when you see them from your vantage point

on the shore, you can easily imagine with greater detail what they are up to out there. To catch a glimpse of oystering with your own eyes, I would have to say stopping by any of the processing plants is probably the best opportunity. The Port of Peninsula in Nahcotta is probably the best shoreline vantage point, especially on seeing the boats coming in to unload oysters at the Jolly Roger processing plant, and at times you can see boats working out and around Long Island. The other benefit here is in the summer months you can also stop by the Interpretive Center, which is a wonderful resource to learn more about the industry. Otherwise, the boat basin in Bay Center and

the Coast Seafoods Processing Plant in South Bend can be very active with oystering activity. How about wildlife on or around the bay — mostly birds, I suppose? Any standout experiences in terms of wildlife-watching during your time on Willapa? Whether on land or out on the water, watching the wildlife around the bay was always a highlight, and there was no lack of activity, that is for sure. The Willapa estuary is a remarkable place on Earth, and its diverse ecosystem can be witnessed at nearly all times. During my time documenting the oystering lifestyle on the bay, I encountered many, many, many various birds, including snipes, ducks, geese, herons, hawks, eagles, but also saw various fish, seals, crabs and other sea creatures, as well as deer, elk, rabbits, raccoons, beavers, even a porcupine and fox. It’s always a joy to watch birds dive bombing the water to pick up fish, or flocks of geese honking as they move across the skyline especially at sunrise or as the sun sets, but also to just watch a herd of elk peacefully grazing along a shoreline. How have oyster growers and workers responded to your documentary efforts? Are they dazzled by the attention or mystified by it? Do they get why outsiders would be interested in what they do? The majority of the oystermen I followed around had absolutely no interest in being “movie stars,” but they opened up to me with the interest in having the industry captured, so that others could better understand what they do. Most folks don’t realize that oysters are actually farmed, not just fished, in Willapa Bay. There is a misconception that because oysters naturally grow in estuaries, that the oystermen come along, find a patch of oysters, harvest them and make the big bucks — how hard can that be? There are estuaries all around the world where that is true — well, all except the making big bucks part — but that is not the case for Willapa Bay. These growers own the tidelands, which is unique in the U.S. to Washington state, so they are actually

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planting oyster seed, cultivating them, moving them to different tidelands (farm fields) for better growth, then harvesting them after two to four years in hopes of a successful return. It is true that they rely on Mother Nature to feed these animals over the years, which also means their success is heavily dependent on a healthy environment. I think most growers would agree it’s about 2 percent good farming practices and 98 percent relying on Mother Nature for the success of their farms. Something good or bad floats into the estuary, and it has an effect on the health of all that rely on that water for survival. For all these reasons, I feel the oyster growers were interested in sharing their stories, so outsiders to the industry can better understand the amount of work, effort and care that they invest into their livelihoods. After the growers and workers began to see the documentaries being created, the most common response is a surprise at how much they’ve learned about their own industry. Not in facts and figures, but in seeing the variety of ways in which other growers do things. It’s a thorough tour of the industry, so for workers who never step foot inside a processing plant because they are always out on the water or mud, or vice versa, it gives them a glimpse into aspects they don’t see. Also getting a chance to see the ap-

proach of your neighboring farmer gets you thinking about your own processes. Although oystermen are extremely independent and mostly keep to themselves and their ways, in some small ways the response has felt as if the project united the growers, by showing how they are all connected. And folks outside the industry, even those who spent their entire lives in the area, are shocked with how much they learn and how much work is involved in growing oysters. And now whenever someone stops the growers on the street or sees them in a store, and says “Hey, I saw you in those documentaries,” most would agree they don’t mind getting a small taste of what it must feel like to be “movie stars.” But really it’s just been a fun way for them to connect with the community. Ironically, you’re not the world’s biggest fan of eating oysters. Do you have favorite local seafood items and/or restaurants? I grew up eating and truly savoring locally caught crab, various fish and crawdads, all of which we would catch ourselves but also picked up from local fisherman. But unfortunately I am not the best resource for where to dine locally for fresh seafood. Some people who know how much of a passion project this was for me, spending more than four years of my life invested in

the project, are shocked to hear I don’t eat oysters, but for me this project was about the history, the people and the fascinating industry. If you were having a brief conversation with someone at a party and wanted to summarize why you feel such a passion for this subject, what would you say? As the cocktails and hors d’oeuvres are served, no doubt including platters of fried, steamed and even smoked Willapa Bay oysters, which make their way around the room, I would not and do not hesitate to share my pride about the oyster documentary project and what it showcases. The conversation nearly always leads to some form of a discussion about the environmental concerns of the world’s waters, because that’s the only thing that seems to be discussed in the news regarding oysters. But for me, oysters are about the people, the oystermen themselves, and the extensive processes that continue to nurture and cultivate these bivalves, as well as an appreciation for the history of the industry. I believe the more people understand about the industry, and the hard work invested in its survival, in addition to the care the growers have for the environment in which they depend, the more the community can appreciate the triumphs and challenges when they hear about the industry in the news.

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Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 73

Rob Seitz, second from left, of Morro Bay, California prepares to follow Lloyd Montgomery, of Wasilla, Alaska, on the mic at the Voodoo Room during the 2013 FisherPoets Gathering.

A S T O R I A ’ S

FISHERPOETS GATHERING

A TIDE OF POETRY THAT LIFTS ALL BOATS

here is a cacophony of sound. On the wind, it could be moaning and laughing, barking and coughing. A chorus rises, goes silent, then rises again out of the gray of a February afternoon along the Columbia River. On floating docks more than a hundred sea lions loll like a colony of sausages. The complexity of their guttural cries suggests a language for telling stories. Are they here to talk of their exploits in pursuit of salmon? If so, they are not alone. In downtown Astoria, many voices can be heard at the FisherPoets Gathering — an annual confab for non-sea lions who make their livelihoods fishing. For nearly two decades —

74 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

Story by Knute Berger • Photos by Alex Pajunas 2015 is its 18th year — the town has played host to scores of writers, storytellers and musicians who come for a winter weekend to commune with one another, to connect, create and lament. Some have described the FisherPoets Gathering as a kind of family reunion. Most of the poets are past or present participants in the Pacific Northwest’s commercial fisheries and hail from Alaska, Washington and Oregon. Some are from beyond, as far away as England. Many know each other from fishing sideby-side on the Columbia River or Bristol Bay or from previous poet gatherings. The get-together offers a warm and supportive environment, and one that is welcoming to an audience of landlubbers too.

The format is like a good film festival with many screens, so you cannot possibly see or hear it all. For $15, you get a button that gives you access to the weekend’s events. On Friday and Saturday nights, there are simultaneous readings in a half-dozen venues scattered around town, from salty establishments like the Wet Dog Cafe where you can sip D.B. Copper ale served by waitresses wearing “Shut Up and Drink Your Beer” T-shirts to restaurants like the elegant Clemente’s that serve local tuna sashimi and gluten-free halibut and chips. Get there early, stake out a seat, and for the next four hours you’ll hear from a dozen or so performers, mostly poets sharing and baring their souls.

The lay public tends to think of commercial fishing in terms of what’s on our plate or what’s up with the planet, but not much about the lives of those who catch the fish for us. The results are unpredictable — from corny humor to heartfelt memoirs, from angry songs to verse that sounds like Robert Service meets “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.” Some readers are practiced and recite from memory, others stumble and forget their verses, or crack jokes or ramble. The audience is interactive — people shouting out support, applauding loudly, sometimes boisterously responding to a poem as if in church, “That’s right, brother!” The fisherpoets recognize that for some people, getting up on stage is scarier than facing the perfect storm. What you will also find is a group of fishers with a strong sense of heritage and community, people seized with the desire to tell their stories, share their feelings, and to hold on to a way of life that many feel is disappearing. To attend this fisherpoets’ festival is not so much to hear great poetry, though there is some of that, but to become immersed in a living, a traditional way of life that most of us don’t think much about, except when we’re thankful for a great slab of Copper River salmon or alarmed at the prospects of climate change. In other words, the lay public tends to think of commercial fishing in terms of what’s on our plate or what’s up with the planet, but not much about the lives of those who catch the fish for us. For the people who live that lifestyle, they have joys and woes all their own, and winter and poetry are the time and medium for sharing. Competitors on the fishing grounds come together for an uplifting of spirits. About 80 poets participate each year. One described the Gathering as like “walking the dock in Kodiak.” Another, the Portland poet who performs under the name of Moe Bowstern, put it this way: “A rising tide lifts all boats — that’s what I think of the fisherpoets.” It makes sense that Astoria is the gathering place, the oldest U.S. settlement west of the Rocky Mountains (founded 1811) and one that flourished along with the bounty found where the Columbia meets the Pacific. Early on, Astorians took a cue from the local tribes who had fished these waters for millennia and traded their catch far and wide. Passing through in 1890, Rudyard Kipling, no slouch as a poet himself, made his observation about the place: “Astoria is a fishing village near the mouth of the Columbia River, holding to the bank with one hand while wading out into the stream. Its inhabitants live on salmon and great and increasing expectations.” FROM TOP: Clark Whitney, of Soldotna, Alaska, alternates between characters while telling a story during the FisherPoets Gathering; Steve Schoonmaker, of Kasilof, Alaska, performs in front of an intimate crowd gathered around the mic at Clemente’s; Jay Speakman, left, of Gearhart, and Jon Broderick, of Cannon Beach, play a duet on the Astoria Event Center stage.

FisherPoets Gathering 2015 18th annual event Feb. 27, 28 & March 1 Astoria, Oregon $15 entry buttons good all weekend Youth age 18 and under admitted free www.ﬁsherpoets.org

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Can’t get enough? The new seven-volume set “Anchored in Deep Water: The FisherPoets Anthology” is a collaboration between artist Chelsea Stephen and fisherpoet Pat Dixon. Each 50 to 60-page paperback volume combines stunning illustrations with some of the finest, fishiest words you’ll ever read. The anthology is available at Reading Frenzy in Portland, Cannon Beach Book Company and the Columbia River Maritime Museum in Astoria, and online at www.fisherpoets.org

76 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

Buck Meloy, of Bellingham, Washington reads at the Fort George Brewery's Lovell Showroom during the 17th annual FisherPoets Gathering.

e described a geography of hope. Fish are still important, but to hear the fisherpoets tell it, the “increasing expectations part” is in doubt. Commercial fishers face declining stocks, mounting debts, the threat of mining projects and climate change, bureaucratic hurdles, fickle markets and stormy seas. A thread in their collective work is worry that their way of life is at risk. Folksinger Hobe Kytr of Astoria sings about the Columbia gillnetters being pushed off the Columbia’s main waters and banished to the side channels and mud holes. His angry protest song about these marginalized fishers is called “Starvation Bay.” Alaska poet Meezie Hermansen brings down the house with her poem, “My Heritage,” which begins: I cling To the last vestige of my heritage I cling like Barnacles cling to a ship Like rock climbers cling to a grip Like skinny jeans cling to the hip And dog hair clings to Polar fleece The water provides something solid that land never can Tho people don’t understand The need to quit the land Launch out from the strand And let the mindset of town just cease…

TOP ROW: The crowd reacts to a fisherpoet inside the Fort George Lovell Showroom; Sierra Golden, of Maple Falls, Washington performs a poem. SECOND ROW: Souls of the Sea Trio, of Gloucester, Massachusetts play at the Wet Dog Café; Chloe Rathmell, 12, was the winner of the 2013 FisherPoets poetry contest. BOTTOM: Toby Sullivan, of Kodiak, Alaska, performs a reading at KALA.

The poetic voice is driven to express connections to a way of life most of us wouldn’t choose, but is vital to those who do. With its hardships, it’s not always explicable to those of us who would get no closer to frigid gales and pitching decks than watching “The Deadliest Catch” or dining at Red Lobster. But that’s why poetry is such an effective medium for these fisher folk: It has been sometimes called the art of “expressing the inexpressible.” That inexpressible will introduce you to a new vocabulary with rhymes for words like gaff, picking hook, sea hag, boat puller and Xtratuffs, the latter the commercial fisher’s signature rubber boot. For Gathering attendees, numbering over 1,200, there are also writing workshops to attend, exhibits of paintings and photography at local galleries to see. Fisherpoet Dave Densmore of Astoria opens his 50-year-old, Seattle-built wooden fishing boat, the Cold Stream, for an open house where the curious crowd the snug galley to buy books and ask questions of a real live fisherman in his natural habitat. Densmore patiently and passionately fields questions, but what makes a powerful impression beyond his poetry is his face, which resembles a gorgeously weathered sea stack. It’s the kind of face that tells stories even when Densmore isn’t speaking.

During the 2011 FisherPoets Gathering, Dave Densmore performs a poem titled â&#x20AC;&#x153;Spillâ&#x20AC;? on stage at the Astoria Event Center accompanied by Alexa Wiley Pengelly, of Portland.

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Get there early, stake out a seat, and for the next four hours you’ll hear from a dozen or so performers, mostly poets sharing and baring their souls. he boat is moored next to the oldest surviving cannery on the river — it started in 1875 — and is now the Bumble Bee Cannery Museum paying tribute to history of the multi-ethnic workers who passed the fish bounty onto consumers. Next door, fishing boats are housed in the East Mooring Basin, home of the local fishing fleet, where the barking chorus of lounging sea lions exercises its poetic lungs. Nearby — a good walk down a waterfront trail — is the Columbia River Maritime Museum. It conveys an extraordinary picture of river life and work. One display is a wall-sized map of the “Graveyard of the Pacific” marking ships that have sunk. It leaves an indelible mental picture of the risks mariners take at the Columbia River’s maw. If a way of life is endangered, so too are the lives of fishers on a daily basis. The mundane — fixing nets, repairing engines — is seasonally interrupted by hard work in dangerous conditions. No wonder the safe harbor of the Gathering builds community and adds poignancy to the poetry. The event ends on Sunday morning with a gospel sing-along and open-mic readings at the Astoria Event Center. It’s like a service and a social combined, a place where the fisherpoets can testify to their love of their chosen lifestyle to the amens of friends and fans. With readings by night and things to explore by day in a real, working fishing town with great seafood, beers and bars to match, the overall effect of the FisherPoets Gathering weekend is to immerse the visitor in the bracing culture of the Pacific Northwest’s “Brine Country.” You’ll never look at the fish on your plate the same way again.

Local fisherpoet Dave Densmore provides public tours of his fishing boat Cold Stream, docked at Pier 39 as part of the FisherPoets Gathering festivities.

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NORTH COAST LAND CONSERVANCY

OREGON

Ocean

Seaside Saddle Mountain

Cannon Beach

Finding common ground with land owners to preserve native wildlife and ecosystems for the future

Story by Cassandra Proﬁta • Photos by Alex Pajunas 101

Rockaway Beach

Tillamook

Pacific City

NCLC lands Properties/easements Service area 101 18

North Coast Land Conservancy Executive Director Katie Voelke and Neal Maine, a founder of the NCLC, are helping to preserve native wildlife and ecological systems along the North Coast for future generations.

Lincoln City

MAP BY ALAN KENAGA

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As daylight fades to dusk, Neal Maine leads a dozen people along a path of flattened grass in Stanley Marsh. “We’ll be following coyote trails,” he says. Maine’s job on this hike is to guide the group through the nocturnal world of wildlife that emerges after the sun sets. It’s a world of coyotes, bats and beautiful white, furry moths that you won’t see unless you go outside at night, he explains. “We think of the dark as the time when things slow down,” Maine says. “In fact, it’s more of the same for 90 percent of the creatures on planet Earth.” A founder of the North Coast Land Con“The more people servancy, Maine has a way of seeing things who know about on the landscape that most people miss — the work we’re even at night. doing, the more With a frequency converter, he turns inaudible bat calls into signals you can hear. people want to be He drapes a sheet over an A-frame and sets volunteering and a lantern under it to create a nighttime moth donating money and viewing area. A motion-triggered trail camdonating property. era, he says, can capture images of mounIt’s almost taken on tain lions and other wildlife that might otherwise evade him. a life of its own.” “Go outside at night and start listening, smelling and feeling,” Maine says. “There’s this nighttime world hopping around out here.” You could argue that night vision is just one of many superpowers shared by Maine and the North Coast Land Conservancy. Over the years, they’ve shown they can look at a dairy pasture and see a forested swamp. They see a thousand tidal marsh habitat functions where others see condos. Since 1986, the Seaside-based land trust has built an empire of more than 3,000 acres of conservation land from Astoria to Lincoln City. And it all started with a new way of looking at the land on the Oregon Coast.

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NCLCtrust.org North Coast Land Conservancy has been working since 1986 to conserve and connect the landscape of the Oregon Coast. We work to ensure that this extraordinary region is a place where healthy communities of people, plants and wildlife can all thrive. Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 81

Starting Out For Maine, starting a land trust meant deliberately breaking with the combative approach of 1980s environmentalism in favor of a non-confrontational strategy identifying land that should be protected. “When we first formed, it was a small group of people who had had it with ‘get-the-bastards-in-court’ approach,” says Maine. “A lot of people had been down that road, and it was a tough row to hoe.” But once they’d agreed a land trust was the way to go, no one knew exactly how to get started, he says. “What do you say: ‘Give us your land’?” Maine says. “What do you do? We were stumbling around at first.” Doug Ray, who served on the land trust board for 23 years, remembers the group’s humble beginnings. They held board meetings in people’s kitchens and survived on a couple thousand dollars in donations a year with Maine at the helm. “We were just a mom-and-pop operation,” he says. “It was just Neal. There was no staff. If somebody gave us 50 bucks, it was a big deal.”

The First Milestone One of the first land deals for the land conservancy set the tone for how the organization would operate. In 1991, a timber company that owned land 82 • Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com

adjacent to Saddle Mountain State Park was planning to log near a rare stand of old-growth forest inside the park along Fox Creek. “The chainsaws, they were literally coming over the hill,” says Maine. “They were going to cut right to the line of Saddle Mountain State Park.” Leaders of the land trust at the time wanted to protect the old-growth forest from any negative effects of logging nearby. But although they discovered two endangered species — including marbled murralet and Cope’s salamander — living in the area, they opted not to use the Endangered Species Act to stop the logging. They found additional timberland owned by state parks that could be logged instead, and they arranged a land swap. The timber company still got to log the same amount of land, but it was in a different place. And Saddle Mountain State Park grew by 15 acres, providing a buffer for the old-growth trees along Fox Creek. “That seemed like a really important turning point,” Maine says, “and that became the culture of the land trust.” North Coast Land Conservancy Executive Director Katie Voelke says that culture has allowed the land trust to successfully negotiate many more land deals over the years. “We’re not against anything, and we’re not trying to stop anything from happening,” she says. “But we do have visions around what we want to make happen for the future. It’s not about stopping something but starting something.”

Finding Common Ground Maine says the ecosystems on the North Coast are generally still functioning, and the goal of the land trust was to keep them that way. He likens ecosystems to the human body in that they can survive a broken leg but not a severed aortic artery. “We have a fair amount of aches and pains,” he says of the North Coast landscape. “But the system isn’t broken. If we keep systems intact, we still have a future.” Voelke says the land trust’s vision revolves around working with willing landowners to keep ecological systems in working order. “We don’t take policy stands,” she says. “It’s a very precise, strategic approach to land conservation.” Board member Betsy Ayres says that approach often involves tradeoffs, such as sacrificing some wetlands to save others, and it appeals to a broad range of people with widely divergent political views. “No one’s being coerced,” she says. “There are ways people can develop their property and preserve it at the same time.” The organization has a knack for finding win-win arrangements that deliver benefits to both landowners and the landscape. “The ground we’re all standing on is the common ground,” says Ray. “You can get the most conservative business, anti-government type, but if they’re pragmatic, the land trust fits right in. What’s there to argue about?”

How It Works For 40 years, Rod Gramson owned about 45 acres surrounding Clear Lake in Warrenton. The land is home to an active bald eagle nest, native sphagnum moss and a healthy population of red-legged frogs. It’s also one of the last undeveloped inter-dunal lakes in Warrenton. “It’s a special piece,” Gramson says. “There will be days when there are 200 to 300 ducks in the lake. An incredible amount of wildlife call this area home.” When a housing development was built just down the road from the lake, he realized that could be the future of his property, too. “But I didn’t want to see that,” Gramson says. “I could’ve made pretty good money by developing or selling it, but I really wanted to sit on my back porch and look out over the lake and know it wasn’t going to change.” Gramson was counting on making some money from the land for his retirement, so he offered to sell it to the North Coast Land Conservancy. The deal would ensure he could retire while preserving what he loves about Clear Lake. The organization offered Gramson $450,000 for the land, drawing on funds from the Oregon Department of State Lands that are dedicated to offsetting impacts to wetlands elsewhere in Warrenton. Gramson says the property appraised for almost double that price, but he knew he wasn’t going get the appraised value unless he developed it. “I thought it was a fair offer, and they did everything they could to make sure it came through,” he says. Gramson says the land conservancy stuck with the deal for three years before it secured the money to make the purchase, and he’s happy with the arrangement. “There are several more pieces next to this lake that I’m hoping will end up in the hands of the North Coast Land Conservancy,” he says. “We’ll see.” OPPOSITE: A guided hike to an old-growth grove at the base of Saddle Mountain. ABOVE RIGHT: A beaver lodge on Clear Lake in Warrenton. RIGHT: Neal Maine uses a beaver skull to demonstrate how beavers use two large tusk-like teeth to chew through trees.

A Life of its Own For the first 20 years of the organization’s history, Voelke says, the North Coast Land Conservancy kept a low profile. Its land deals were done one-on-one with individual landowners or government leaders. But over time, those individuals started adding up to a large swath of the North Coast community. And now, the land trust isn’t a secret anymore. The staff, the volunteer base and the number of properties the organization owns have multiplied. The group receives around $300,000 a year in donations and leverages it into millions of dollars in grants. Increasingly, Voelke says, the challenge is choosing which land to conserve. “There is so much opportunity to do great conservation work out here, and we can’t do it all,” says Voelke. “We have to make hard decisions, and we have to say no sometimes.” Board member Ayres says she sees a snowballing effect as the organization grows. “The more people who know about the work we’re doing, the more people want to be volunteering and donating money and donating property,” she says. “It’s almost taken on a life of its own.” Ayres says the fire that destroyed the organization’s offices in 2012 hardly slowed that momentum. “Everybody was pretty darn shocked by losing everything, of course,” she says. “But what was astounding was everybody just kind of went on. Nobody gave up. It was a setback, but it wasn’t the end of anything.”

‘I’m Sure They’re Right’ “How many people have walked in a marsh before?” Melissa Reich, stewardship director for the North Coast Land Conservancy, is prepping a group of about 10 people who have volunteered to pull invasive purple loosestrife for the day. “It feels kind of like you’re sinking. If you do fall in, ask for help. Don’t dig yourself in deeper.” This is one of many stewardship events the land trust uses to maintain ecological health on its properties. The focus today is on a 12-acre marshland property the land trust owns near the Twilight Eagle Sanctuary on the Columbia River. Reich shows the group how to identify purple loosestrife and explains how it competes with native plants like dogwood and wapato. “We will never be rid of purple loosestrife,” she says, “but if we keep it in check, we can preserve these great native plants.” Reich sets the volunteers loose on the marsh, and within minutes, Cannon Beach resident Terry Finlayson sinks one foot nearly knee deep in the mud. Her rain boot won’t budge. “I’m going to step out of the boot because my boot is stuck in there,” she says. But it’s too late. Before she can pull her foot out of the boot, marsh water starts pouring in. “Here it comes,” she says. “The water’s filling my boot.” Despite the initial setback, Finlayson is undeterred. She sets out to pull loosestrife with one soaked foot and a rescued boot. She says she doesn’t really like pulling weeds, but she supports the mission of the North Coast Land Conservancy. “Whatever they think I need to do, I’m ready to do it,” she says. “It would be nice if it wasn’t standing in a marsh pulling up weeds.” She says it seems wrong to pull such pretty plants, but she knows it’s what she needs to do because the leaders of the land trust said so. “I know they do good,” she says. “If they tell me this is what I need to do, I’m sure they’re right.”

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Our Coast 2015 • discoverourcoast.com • 85

Astoria-Warrenton region Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places Coast. Click map button to find contact info and links for that locaces ttoo st stay a oonn Ou ay Ourr Coas C oast. t C lick onn a ma li tion, onn, pl pplus u oour us uurr rrecommendations ecom ec omme om m nd me ndat a ioons for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do. at

PACIFIC WAHKIAKUM

Region in detail

CLATSOP CLATSO

TILLAMOO TILLAMOOK

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Flavel F House — 441 Eighth St., Astoria L Liberty Theater — 1203 Commercial St., Astoria F to Sea Trail — Fort Clatsop to Sunset Beach Fort F Stevens State Park — 100 Ridge Road, Hammond Fort C Clatsop County Heritage Museum — 16th and Exchange st streets, Astoria 6. Columbia C River Maritime Museum — 1792 Marine Drive, A Astoria 7. Oregon O Film Museum — 732 Duane St., Astoria 8. Fort F Clatsop — 92343 Fort Clatsop Road, Astoria 9. Fort F Astoria — 15th and Exchange streets, Astoria 110 0. Astoria A 10. Aquatic Center — 1997 Marine Drive, Astoria 11. Maritime M Memorial Park — 200 W. Marine Drive, Astoria 12. Uppertown 12 U Firefighters Museum — 2986 Marine Drive, Astoria 13. Astoria A Column — 1 Coxcomb Drive, off 15th Street, Astoria 14. Lower 14 L Columbia Disc Golf Course — at Clatsop County F Wallusski Loop, A Astoria Fairgrounds, 929377 Walluski Flavel House

Liberty Theater

The Astoria Bridge at sunset

FORT COLUMBIA STATE PARK

101

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JOHN WARREN FIELD

PACIFIC PACIF

WAHKIAKUM WAHKI h. as W

Region in detail

Long Beach Peninsula Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.

1. Leadbetter Point State Park — Ocean Park, Wash., 19 miles north of Seaview 2. Discovery Trail — Ilwaco to north end of Long Beach, Wash. 3. Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum — 115 Lake St. S.E., Ilwaco, Wash. 4. Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center — Cape Disappointment State Park, two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash. 5. Port of Ilwaco — 165 Howerton Ave., Ilwaco, Wash. TILLAMOOK 6. Cranberry Museum — 2907 Pioneer Road, Long Beach, Wash. 7. Fort Columbia State Park — U.S. Highway 101, two miles west of the Astoria Bridge in Chinook, Wash. 8. Cape Disappointment State Park — two miles southwest of Ilwaco, Wash. 9. North Head Lighthouse and Cape Disappointment Lighthouse — within Cape Disappointment State Park 10. World Kite Museum — 303 S.W. Sid Snyder Drive, Long Beach, Wash. 11. Willapa Interpretive Art Trail — near Refuge Headquarters in Willapa National Wildlife Refuge 12. Knappton Cove Heritage Center — two miles past the rest stop north of the Astoria Bridge on Washington state Route 401 13. Appelo Archive Center — 1056 state Route 4, Naselle, Wash.

Pacific Ocean

CLATSOP

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U.S. highways

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103

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Cannon Beach-North Tillamook County region PACIFIC

WAHKIAKUM WAHKIA

Region in detail CLATSOP

TILLAMOOK

Cannon Beach near Haystack Rock

Haystack Rock Awareness Program

ns, Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, m restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click onn a map mm button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recom recommendations for a day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do. 1. Haystack Rock Awareness Program — offshore at midtown Cannon Beach 2. Cannon Beach History Center & Museum — 1387 S. Spruce St., Cannon Beach 3. Ecola State Park — off U.S. Highway 101, two miles north of Cannon Beach 4. Cape Falcon — in Oswald West State Park, 10 miles south of Cannon Beach 5. Neahkahnie Mountain — in Oswald West State Park 6. Oswald West State Park — U.S. Highway 101, 10 miles south of Cannon Beach

Ecola State Park

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CLATSOP STATE FOREST

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Necamey Blvd.

Detail, below right

Tolovana Park

Sugarloaf Mountain 2,858 ft.

NEHALEM BAY STATE PARK Nehalem Bay State Airport

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101

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Summit Avenue

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GEARHART GOLF LINKS

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101

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ELMER FELDEN FELDENHEIMER STATE NATURAL N

202

CLATSOP STATE FOREST

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Area in detail

o S. F ad Ro Saddl e M o u nt ai n

101

6 Beach D rrive

TILLAMOOK

Fififftfth F th Avenue A e Fifth

eet

Region in detail, below

1. Seaside Museum & Historical Society — 570 Necanicum Drive, Seaside 2. Saddle Mountain State Park — off U.S. Highway 26, eight miles north east of Necanicum Junction 3. Tillamook Head — five miles southwest of Seaside 4. Seaside Aquarium — 200 N. Promenade, Seaside 5. Sunset Empire Park & Rec. District — 1140 Broadway, Seaside 6. The Turnaround — west end of Broadway, Seaside 7. Seaside Carousel Mall — 300 Broadway, Seaside

Stree S. Downin t g Str

CLATSOP

Lewis and Clark Road

12t 12th 2th Av Avenue ven

WAHKIAKUM Wash. Ore.

GEARHART OCEAN STATE PARK

Go to discoverourcoast.com to explore hundreds more attractions, restaurants, merchants and places to stay on Our Coast. Click on a map button to find contact info and links for that location, plus our recommendations for a l day trip with nearby dining, lodging and things to do.

Roa d

PACIFIC

G Street Seaside Municipal Airport

Pacific

Seaside-Gearhart region

GEARHART

Legend N 1,000 feet

U.S. highways State routes City, rural routes State boundary Trails, walks Rivers Lakes, open water Parks and forests Municipal areas Cities, townships

Necanicum Junction Alan Kenaga/EO Media Group

ANIMAL SHELTERS Clatsop Animal Assistance.....................96

ANTIQUES Phog Bounders Antique Mall ...............96 892 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-0101 www.phogbounders.com

APARTMENTS Emerald Heights Apartments, LLC.....56 1 Emerald Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8221 www.emeraldheightsapartments.com

ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT Alpenfest ..................................................................65 P.O. Box 327 Joseph, OR 97846 (541) 398-1096 www.oregonalpenfest.com

Astor Street Opry........................................38 129 Bond Street Union Town Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6104 www.astorstreetoprycompany.com

Astoria Music Festival...............................37 P.O. Box 113 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-9896 www.astoriamusicfestival.org

P.O. Box 321 Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-5319 www.beachartist.org

Scandinavian Midsummer Festival....56

Clatsop County Historical Society....100

Astoria/Warrenton Chamber of Commerce...........................23

P.O. Box 34 Astoria, OR 97103 www.astoriascanfest.com

111 West Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6311 • (800) 875-6807 www.oldoregon.com

Seaside Jazz Festival .................................33

Astoria Regatta Association ..................23

P.O. Box 813 Seaside, OR 97138 (866) 345-6257 www.jazzseaside.com

Wiegardt Studio Gallery..........................55 2607 Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-5976 www.ericwiegardt.com

ASSISTED & RETIREMENT LIVING Necanicum Village.....................................32 2500 S. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-0900 www.necanicumvillage.com

BUSINESS & PROFESSIONAL SERVICES AAA Oregon/Idaho ...................................14 Roadside Assistance (800) 222-4357 Travel (800) 529-3222 www.AAA.com

CGC Financial Services, LLC ...................56 5 Centerpoint Drive, Suite 270 Lake Oswego, OR 97035 (503) 670-1958 www.cgcﬁnancialservices.com

Bay Avenue Gallery ...................................71 1406 Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 97640 (360) 665-5200 www.bayavenuegallery.com

FAMILY, COMMUNITY & CIVIC ORGANIZATIONS

Craft3..................................................................9 203 Howerton Way SE P.O. Box 826 Ilwaco, WA 98624 (888) 231-2170 www.coasterconstruction.com

P.O. Box 24 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8841 www.astoriaregatta.org

Astoria Sunday Market ............................96 Downtown on 12th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-1010 www.astoriasundaymarket.com

Astoria Crest Motel....................................96

City of Seaside Visitors Bureau .............98 989 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-3097 • (888) 306-2326 www.SeasideOR.com

Long Beach Merchants Association ..54 P.O. Box 896 Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4421 www.longbeachmerchants.com

Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau ............................................66 3914 Paciﬁc Way Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2400 www.funbeach.com

North Coast Land Conservancy...........81 P.O. Box 67 Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-9126 nclctrust.org

Liberty Theater ............................................37 1203 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5922 www.liberty-theater.org

1414 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0310 www.smileastoria.com

EDUCATION

1157 N. Marion Gearhart, OR 97138 (800) 547-0115 www.gearhartresort.com

Hallmark Resort & Spa .............................44

Ocean Park Area Chamber of Commerce...........................31 1715 E. Bay Avenue Ocean Park, WA 98640 (888) 751-9354 www.opwa.com

1116 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (855) 424-0130 www.hallmarkinns.com/cannon-beach

Heidi’s Inn ......................................................42 126 E. Spruce Street Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 642-2387 www.heidisinnmotel.com

Seaside Chamber of Commerce .........27

Jeffrey Leinassar, DMD, FAGD...............49

495 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4211 www.columbiainnastoria.com

Gearhart By The Sea..................................42

DENTISTS

P.O. Box 138 Hammond, OR 97121 (503) 861-1470 www.visitftstevens.com

59 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2921 www.rivershoremotel.com

Columbia Inn................................................43

Coaster Theatre Playhouse ....................37

1006 W. Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0116 www.klempfamilydentistry.com

5366 Leif Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-3141 www.astoriacrestmotel.com

Astoria Rivershore Motel ........................45

300 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6728 www.seasidecarouselmall.com

Friends Of Old Fort Stevens...................56

725 S. Wahanna Road Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-7000 www.providence.org/northcoast

LODGING & TRAVEL

No. 10 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-4772 www.cannerypierhotel.com

Klemp Family Dentistry...........................22

2120 Exchange Street, #111 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0333 www.nwurgentcare.com

Providence Seaside Hospital.................99

DAY SPA

108 North Hemlock Street P.O. Box 643 Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1242 www.coastertheatre.com

2111 Exchange St. Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4321 www.columbiamemorial.org

NW Urgent Care – Astoria ......................32

P.O. Box 88 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2203 www.cumtux.org

Spa at Cannery Pier Hotel.......................96

Columbia Memorial Hospital................21

Seaside Carousel Mall...............................27

7 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6391 www.seasidechamber.com

Hillcrest Inn and Hillcrest House in Seaside.......................................................42 118 North Columbia Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6273 • (800) 270-7659 www.seasidehillcrest.com

Inn at Arch Rock..........................................70 70 Northwest Sunset Street Depoe Bay, OR 97341 (541) 765-2560 • (800) 767-1835 www.innatarchrock.com

HEALTH CARE Acupuncture & Natural Medicine Clinic............................................97

Inn at Cannon Beach ................................97

1355 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2255 www.cannonbeachacupuncture.com

3215 S. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9085 (800) 321-6304 www.atcannonbeach.com

Pacific County Historical Society.........96

Clatsop Community College.................48

Coastal Family Health Center................22

Inn at Seaside...............................................27

1008 West Robert Bush Drive South Bend, WA 98586 (360) 875-5224 www.paciﬁccohistory.com

1651 Lexington Avenue Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-2411 www.clatsopcc.edu

2158 Exchange Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8315 www.coastalfhc.org

441 2nd Avenue Seaside, OR 97138 (800) 699-5070 www.innatseaside.com

Our Coast 2013 • discoverourcoast.com • 93

our coast advertiser index

1315 SE 19th Street P.O. Box 622 Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-7387 • (503) 861-0737 www.dogsncats.org

Peninsula Arts Association.....................71

LODGING & TRAVEL (continued)

our coast advertiser index

Land’s End at Cannon Beach.................97 263 West Second Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (800) 793-1477 • (503) 436-2264 www.landsendcb.com

Lighthouse Inn ............................................97 963 S. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (866) 265-1686 • (503) 436-2929 www.cblighthouseinn.com

Lodges at Cannon Beach........................97 132 E, Surfcrest Ave. Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9085 www.lodgesatcbhotel.com

McMenamins Gearhart Hotel...............45 1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 717-8159 www.mcmenamins.com/sandtrap

Pilot House ....................................................45 Foot of 14th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (888) 683-7987 www.AstoriaPilotHouse.com

River Inn at Seaside ...................................27 531 Avenue A Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-5744 www.riverinnatseaside.com

Sand & Sea Oceanfront Condominiums ...........................................43 475 S. Prom Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-8441 • (800) 628-2371 www.sandandseaoregon.com

Columbia River Maritime Museum..2, 3

Discovery Coast Real Estate...................70

Norma’s Seafood & Steak........................59

1792 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-2323 www.crmm.org

1711 Paciﬁc Avenue S Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3325 www.discoverycoastrealestate.com

20 N. Columbia Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-4331 www.normasseaside.com

Cranberry Museum & Gift Shop..........72

Maryann Sinkler RE/MAX Coastal Advantage ..................97

Jimella & Nanci’s Market Café...............66

2907 Pioneer Road Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-5553 www.cranberrymuseum.com

Garibaldi Maritime Museum.................97 112 Highway 101 Garibaldi, OR 97118 (503) 322-8411 www.garibaldimuseum.org

Lost Art of Nursing Museum.................22 3285 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (301) 208-8060 www.pronurse.com

Marsh’s Free Museum...............................55 409 Paciﬁc Way S. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2188 www.marshsfreemuseum.com

Northwest Carriage Museum...............73 314 Alder Street Raymond, WA 98577 (360) 942-4150 www.nwcarriagemuseum.org

World Kite Museum & Hall of Fame...54 303 Sid Snyder Drive West Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4020 www.worldkitemuseum.com

NATIONAL PARKS

Seaside Oceanfront Inn...........................44

Lewis & Clark National Historical Park ..............................................30

581 S. Prom Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6403 www.theseasideinn.com

92343 Fort Clatsop Road Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 861-2471 www.nps.gov/lewis

The Anchorage Cottages........................49

PUBLIC UTILITIES

2209 Ocean Beach Boulevard North Long Beach, WA 98631 (800) 642-2351 www.TheAnchorageCottages.com

The Ocean Lodge.......................................97 2864 S. Paciﬁc Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2241 www.theoceanlodge.com

The Wayside Inn..........................................45 3339 S. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1577 • (888) 659-6397 www.thewayside-inn.com

MUSEUMS Cannon Beach History Center & Museum .....................................................97

Pacific County Emergency Management Agency..............................54 300 Memorial Drive P.O. Box 101 South Bend, WA 98586 (360) 875-9338 http://www.co.paciﬁc.wa.us/pcema

RADIO STATIONS Coast Community Radio.........................78 1445 Exchange Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0010 www.coastradio.org

REAL ESTATE & CONSTRUCTION Bob Mathews – Lighthouse Realty ....73

1387 South Spruce Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9301 www.cbhistory.org

31511 ‘I’ Street Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 244-5522 www.lighthouseproperty.com

Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum..73

Coaster Construction LLC.......................33

P.O. Box 153 115 Lake Street Southeast Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 642-3446 www.columbiapaciﬁcheritagemuseum.org

390 Elk Creek Rd P.O. Box 245 Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2235 www.coasterconstruction.com

94 • Our Coast 2013 • discoverourcoast.com

219 N Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 440-9280 MaryannS@remax.net www.maryanns.remaxagent.com

Pacific Realty ................................................55 102 NE Bolstad Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3127 www.pacreal.com

RESTAURANTS, FOOD & BEVERAGE Blue Scorcher Bakery & Cafe ................22 1493 Duane Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-7473 www.bluescorcher.coop

Bridgewater Bistro .....................................49 20 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6777 www.bridgewaterbistro.com

Camp 18 Restaurant .................................33 42362 Highway 26 Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 755-1818 www.camp18restaurant.com

21742 Paciﬁc Way Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4847 www.jimellaandnancis.com

Rogue Public House..................................96 100 39th St, (Pier 39) Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5964 www.rogue.com

Sand Dollar Restaurant & Lounge ......22 210 S. 1st Rockaway Beach, OR 97136 (503) 355-2200 www.sanddollarrestaurant.com

Seasonal Seafoods.....................................72 306 Dike Road Bay Center, WA 98527 (888) 905-9079 www.baycenterfarms.com

Shelburne Inn, Restaurant & Pub........65 4415 Paciﬁc Way Seaview, WA 98644 (800) 466-1896 • (360) 642-2442 www.shelburneinn.com

Ship Inn...........................................................59 #1 2nd Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-0033 www.shipinn-astoria.com

Charlie’s Chowder House........................79 1335 Marine Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 741-3055

Coffee Girl......................................................39 100 39th Street, Suite 2 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6900 www.thecoﬀeegirl.com

Doogers Seafood & Grill..........................33 900 S. Paciﬁc Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-4224

Geno’s Pizza & Burgers.............................39 3693 Lief Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4927

Hungry Harbor Grille ................................66 313 Paciﬁc Avenue Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-5555 www.hungryharbor.com

Maggies on the Prom...............................42 581 S. Prom Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6403 www.maggiesontheprom.com

Silver Salmon Grille....................................49 1105 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 338-6640 www.silversalmongrille.com

Street 14 Coffee...........................................78 1410 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5511 www.street14coﬀee.com

The Human Bean of Seaside & Warrenton...........................32 1545 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 735-5405 1526 SE Discovery Lane Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-8621 www.thehumanbean.com

The Depot Restaurant..............................65 1208 38th Place Seaview, WA 98644 (360) 642-7880 www.depotrestaurantdining.com

RETAILERS & SPECIALTY SHOPPING

McMenamins Sandtrap...........................96

Active Enterprises, Inc. .............................73

1157 N. Marion Avenue Gearhart, OR 97138 (503) 717-8159 www.mcmenamins.com/sandtrap

1318 Paciﬁc Avenue North Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-2102 www.propanelongbeach.com

Astoria Vintage Hardware ......................79

Homespun Quilts.......................................23

The Wine Shack...........................................33

101 15th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-1313 www.astoriavintagehardware.com

108 10th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-3300 www.homespunquilt.com

124 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1100 www.beachwine.com

Bruce’s Candy Kitchen..............................38

In The Boudoir .............................................96

256 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2641 Seaside Outlet Mall Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-7828 www.brucescandy.com

1004 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4400 www.intheboudoirs.com

Walter E. Nelson...................................39, 96

123 S. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2106 • (800) 611-5826 www.cannonbeachﬂorist.com

Cannon Beach Leather ............................32 239 N, Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-0208

Cleanline Surf Shop...................................33 60 N. Roosevelt Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-7888 171 Sunset Blvd. Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-9726 www.cleanlinesurf.com

26006 SR 103 Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4989 www.jackscountrystore.com

Josephine’s....................................................97 251 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2172 www.josephinesincannonbeach.com

Loop Jacobsen Jewelers .........................96 1360 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6181

Lucy’s Books..................................................96 348 12th Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-4210 www.lucys-books.com

Dennis Company........................................65

Luminari Arts................................................23

201 Paciﬁc Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 642-3166 www.denniscompany.com

1133 Commercial St. Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 468-0308

Dogs Allowed...............................................97 148-B N. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 440-8740 www.dogsallowedcannonbeach.com

Finn Ware .......................................................22 1116 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5720 www.ﬁnnware.com

Forsythea Home & Garden ....................96 1124 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5720 www.facebook.com/Forsythea

Fred Meyer ....................................................15 695 Hwy 101 Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-3000 www.fredmeyer.com

Maggie & Henry..........................................33 172 N. Hemlock Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1718 • (877) 511-5752 www.maggieandhenry.com

Organic Boutique.......................................97 139 West 2nd Street Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-4198 www.organicboutique.org

Rusty’s Coin Shop.......................................96 100 Bolstad Ave E. #105 Long Beach, WA 98631 (360) 783-2646

Seaside Carousel Mall...............................27 300 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-6728 www.seasidecarouselmall.com

Seaside Factory Outlet Center..............23

Clatsop Paddle Company.......................48

2240 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6362

Mobile business info@clatsoppaddle.com (503) 791-9619 www.clatsoppaddle.com

Highlife Adventures ..................................32 92111 High Life Road Warrenton, OR 97146 (503) 861-9875 www.highlife-adventures.com

RV PARKS & CAMPGROUNDS

NW Women’s Surf Camps.......................33

Cannon Beach RV Resort........................97 340 Elk Creek Rd Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2231 • (800) 847-2231 www.cbrvresort.com

P.O. Box 425 Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 440-5782 www.nwwomenssurfcamps.com

Port of Ilwaco..................................................4

Driftwood RV Park......................................52 1512 Paciﬁc Avenue N. Long Beach, WA 98631 (888) 567-1902 www.driftwood-rvpark.net

165 Howerton Avenue Ilwaco, WA 98624 (360) 642-3143 www.portoﬁlwaco.com

TRANSPORTATION

Ocean Park Resort......................................96 25904 ‘R’ Street Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4585 www.opresort.com

Westgate Cabins & RV Park....................52 20803 Paciﬁc Way Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4211 www.vacationwestgate.com

Pacific Transit System ...............................65 216 N. 2nd Street Raymond, WA 98577 (360) 875-9418 www.paciﬁctransit.org

Royal Cab, LLC..............................................66 P.O. Box 101 Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5818 – Oregon (360) 665-3500 - Washington www.royalcab.net

VISITOR INFORMATION RESOURCES ASTORIA-WARRENTON AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 111 W. Marine Drive, Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-6311 or (800) 875-6807 www.oldoregon.com

CANNON BEACH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE 207 N. Spruce St., Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-2623, ext. 3 www.cannonbeach.org

LONG BEACH PENINSULA VISITORS BUREAU P.O. Box 562, Long Beach, WA 98631 • 3914 Pacific Way, Seaview, WA (360) 642-2400 or (800) 451-2542 www.funbeach.com

OCEAN PARK AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE P.O. Box 403, Ocean Park, WA 98640 (360) 665-4448 or (888) 751-9354 www.opwa.com

SEASIDE CHAMBER OF COMMERCE P.O. Box 7, Seaside, OR 97138 • 7 N. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside (503) 738-6391 www.seasidechamber.com

1108 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8143

1111 N. Roosevelt Drive Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 717-1603 www.seasideoutlets.com

Golden Whale Jewelry, Inc. ...................97

Terra Stones ..................................................96

194 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach, OR 97110 (503) 436-1166

951 Commercial Street Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-5548

Holly McHone Jewelers..............................5

The Herons Nest Gifts .................................9

WILLAPA HARBOR CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

1150 Commercial Astoria, OR 97103 (503) 325-8029 www.hollymchone.com

405 Broadway Seaside, OR 97138 (503) 738-8854 www.facebook.com/TheHeronsNestGifts

P.O. Box 1249 South Bend, WA 98586 (360) 942-5419 www.visit.willapabay.org

Godfathers Books.......................................79

SEASIDE VISITORS BUREAU 989 Broadway, Seaside, OR 97138 • 7 N. Roosevelt Drive, Seaside (503) 738-3097 or (888) 306-2326 www.seasideor.com

WAHKIAKUM CHAMBER OF COMMERCE P.O. Box 52, Cathlamet, WA, 98612 • 102 Main St., Suite 205, Cathlamet, WA (360) 795-9996 www.wahkiakumchamber.com

Our Coast 2013 • discoverourcoast.com • 95

our coast advertiser index

Cannon Beach Florist, Basketcase Inc..............................................97

Jacks Country Store...................................67

SPORTS & RECREATION

our coast oregon/washington business directory

ANIMAL SHELTERS

FAMILY & COMMUNITY

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

F o r s y t h e a home & garden ARTS

CLATSOP ANIMAL ASSISTANCE Adopt your new best friend at the Clatsop County Animal Shelter!

PACIFIC COUNTY HISTORICAL SOCIETY Museum & Visitor Center Local and Northwest History Book Store • Maps and Charts

1315 SE 19th St., Warrenton

MP 54, Hwy. 101 - South Bend

Sterling Silver, Costume & Vintage Jewelry, Gemstones, Beads & Decor

•artisan decor & garden ornament •traditional children’s toys

FOR THE IMAGINATIVE SOUL

1124 Commercial St., Astoria 97103

951 Commercial St., Astoria, OR 97103

Find us on

503-325-2189

503-325-5548 Open 7 days a week

Open Every Day! 11 a.m. - 4 p.m. Free Admission

Open Mon.- Sat. 11 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Sunday 12 p.m. to 4:00 p.m.

www.pacificcohistory.org

WHERE NATURE & ART COLLIDE IN DECOR THAT WILL BOTH REFRESH & COMFORT

LOCAL ARTISANS

LODGING

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

IN THE BOUDOIR

WALTER E. NELSON CO.

ASTORIA CREST MOTEL

featuring:

The Astoria Crest Motel sits on nearly three acres, overlooking the mighty Columbia River, Astoria cityscape and the Astoria Bridge. 5366 Leif Erikson Drive Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-3141 • 800-421-3141 www.astoriacrestmotel.com reservations@astoriacrestmotel.com COME AND EXPERIENCE REASONABLE PRICES WITH EPIC VIEWS

Peacock Alley • Pine Cone Hill Coyuchi • Dash & Albert Rugs

Formerly at 1055 Marine Drive Astoria Janitor & Paper Supply is NOW KNOWN ASWalter E Nelson Co. Janitorial & Paper Supplies

503-861-7387 • 503-861-0737 www.dogsncats.org Open 12-4 pm, Tues-Sat

FORSYTHEA HOME & GARDEN ARTS

360-875-5224

ANTIQUES

A storia

Crest Motel PHOG BOUNDERS ANTIQUE MALL 55+Vendors Antiques • Nautical Items Glassware • Vintage Decor 892 Marine Drive, Astoria OR 97103

(503) 338-0101 MORE THAN JUST ANTIQUES!

DAY SPA

RESTAURANTS

Gift Registries www.intheboudoirs.com 1004 Commercial St., Astoria, OR 97103

503-325-4400

2240 Commercial Street - Millpond Area Astoria 503-325-6362 • 800-344-1943

FINE LINENS & LUXURIOUS GIFTS

YOUR LOCAL JANITORIAL & PAPER SUPPLY STORE

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

Loop-JacobsenJewelers, Inc.

uu Frank & Judy VanWinkle

MASSAGE, FACIALS, BODY TREATMENTS • Authentic Finnish sauna • Mineral therapy hot tub • Gift certificates available NO.10 Basin Street Astoria, OR 97103

503-338-4772

Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

MCMENAMINS GEARHART HOTEL Handcrafted ales, wines and spirits available to go. 1157 N. Marion Ave. Gearhart

(503)717-8159 Just four miles north of Seaside, our Gearhart Hotel is ideally situated for its access to both the beach and a golf course. We offer Northwest-style pub fare that incorporates the freshest seasonal ingredients from local and regional growers and producers.

LOOP - JACOBSEN JEWELERS, INC. • Mt. Saint Helen’s Jewelry • Oregon State Gemstone “Sunstone” • Pearls and Beads • Custom Designs • Local Charms • Engraving • Batteries

RUSTY’S COIN SHOP We Buy, Sell And Trade Coins Gold • Silver • Unwanted Jewelry Gold Teeth 100 Bolstad Ave E #105, Long Beach WA 98631

360-783-2646

CANNERYPIERHOTEL.COM

MCMENAMINS.COM/GEARHARTHOTEL

1360 Commercial St., Astoria, OR 97103 503-325-6181 800-241-6181

OPEN WED. TO SUN. 11AM - 5PM CLOSED MON. & TUE.

FAMILY & COMMUNITY

RESTAURANTS

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

RV & CAMPGROUNDS

storia

FR WIFEE I

SUNDAY MARKET

ASTORIA SUNDAY MARKET

ROGUE PUBLIC HOUSE

LUCY’S BOOKS

OCEAN PARK RESORT

EVERY SUNDAY Mothers Day thru October 2015

30 Taps • Rogue Spirits • Wine Bathroom Tours • Inside Parking

348 12th Street Astoria OR 97103 503-325-4210

Motel • RV • Tent & Annual Sites Playground • Laundry • Rec Hall Showers • Propane • Games

12th Street Historic Downtown

100 39th Street (Pier39) Astoria, OR 97103

503-325-5964

10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. WWW.ASTORIASUNDAYMARKET.COM

JOIN THE REVOLUTION AT ROGUE.COM

96 • Our Coast 2013 • discoverourcoast.com

www.lucys-books.com queenofbooks@charter.net “When I run away from home, this is where you can find me...” Customer quote

25904 “R” St. • P.O. Box 339 • Ocean Park, WA 98640

(360) 665-4585 www.opresort.com RESERVATIONS: 1-800-835-4634

MUSEUMS

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

LIGHTHOUSE INN

CANNON BEACH HISTORY CENTER AND MUSEUM

GOLDEN WHALE JEWELRY

Experience Cannon Beachâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Unique History With... â&#x20AC;˘ Interactive Exhibits â&#x20AC;˘ Acoustic Folk! Series â&#x20AC;˘ Engaging Lectures â&#x20AC;˘ Rotating Quilt Shows â&#x20AC;˘ Gift Shop & More!

Quality jewelry in gold, titanium and sterling silver by nationally know artists 194 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach

Suites â&#x20AC;˘ Kitchenettes â&#x20AC;˘ Private Balconies â&#x20AC;˘ Walk to Downtown 6 +HPORFN &DQQRQ %HDFK (503) 436-2929 LQIR#FEOLJKWKRXVHLQQ FRP

Bridal â&#x20AC;˘ Gemstones â&#x20AC;˘ Silver Gold â&#x20AC;˘ Navaho â&#x20AC;˘ Earrings 14kt Gold & Sterling Charms

(503)436-1166 â&#x20AC;˘ (800)548-3918

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1387 S. Spruce, Cannon Beach 503-436-9301 â&#x20AC;˘ www.cbhistory.org

Open Daily If you are looking for something unique, visit the Golden Whale

ACUPUNCTURE

LODGING

REAL ESTATE

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

ACUPUNTURE & NATURAL MEDICINE CLINIC

LODGES AT CANNON BEACH

MARYANN SINKLER

JEWELRY, GIFTS & CLOTHING

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Here to Help You Live Your Dreamâ&#x20AC;?

Unique French Boutique

503-440-9280

251 N. Hemlock Cannon Beach

Aria Walker, L.Ac. â&#x20AC;˘ Five Element Acupuncture â&#x20AC;˘ Private Appointments â&#x20AC;˘ Walk-in Clinics â&#x20AC;˘ Chinese Herbs 1355 S Hemlock St Cannon Beach

503-436-2255

cannonbeachacupuncture.com

LODGING

Broker, Licensed in the State of Oregon

Well appointed 2 and 3 bed, fully furnished condos ( 6XUIFUHVW &DQQRQ %HDFK (503) 436-9085

503-436-2172

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MaryannS@remax.net www.maryanns.remaxagent.com facebook.com/maryanns.broker

Open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.

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Each office independently owned and operated.

JOSEPHINESINCANNONBEACH.COM

LODGING

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

Beach Weddings INN AT CANNON BEACH

THE OCEAN LODGE

CANNON BEACH FLORIST

ORGANIC BOUTIQUE

Tranquil, garden setting with pond â&#x20AC;˘ pet and family friendly

Oceanfront â&#x20AC;˘ pet and family friendly â&#x20AC;˘ steps from Haystack

CALL FOR FREE CONSULTATION

Organic Clothing â&#x20AC;˘ Linens â&#x20AC;˘ Baby Pet â&#x20AC;˘ Bath & Body â&#x20AC;˘ Essential Oils Bath Salts â&#x20AC;˘ Gifts and More!

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123 S. Hemlock â&#x20AC;˘ Cannon Beach

Made in USA or Fair Trade Completely free of any artificial fragrances or synthetic chemicals

Your beach destination wedding specialist

Conveniently located in downtown Cannon Beach

503-436-2106

Good for you, good for the earth.

www.cannonbeachflorist.com

139 W. 2nd Street, Cannon Beach

Local Florist â&#x20AC;˘ Local Flowers Local Service

www.organicboutique.org facebook.com/organicboutique

RETAILERS & SHOPPING

RV & CAMPGROUNDS

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MUSEUMS

LANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S END AT CANNON BEACH

GARIBALDI MARITIME MUSEUM

DOGS ALLOWED

CANNON BEACH RV RESORT

Right on the beach â&#x20AC;˘ Suites and studios â&#x20AC;˘Â Pets welcome

Preserving the maritime heritage of the Pacific Northwest Focusing on Captain Robert Gray and his historical vessels

The Destination for Dogs & for the owner who is looking for a little something more

Full-service, full-hookups for campers and trailers up to 60 ft

263 W 2nd St. Cannon Beach, OR 97110

112 Hwy 101, Garibaldi, Oregon

503.440.8740

148-B N. Hemlock Cannon Beach

(503) 436-4199

(ON &UHHN 5G &DQQRQ %HDFK (503) 436-2231

503-436-2264 â&#x20AC;˘ 800-793-1477

(503)322-8411

LandsEndCB.com

Open April through October, 10 am to 4 pm (Weekends in March & November), Gift Shop

Official dietary sponsor for CBPD K9 Officer Gunner

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WATCH THE SUNSET WITH US!

GARIBALDIMUSEUM.ORG

WWW.DOGSALLOWEDCANNONBEACH.COM

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Our Coast 2013 â&#x20AC;˘ discoverourcoast.com â&#x20AC;˘ 97

our coast cannon beach ,oregon business directory

LODGING

MORE THAN JUST A DAY AT THE BEACH!

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